Wine Journal July/August 2016

wine journal Ju ly/Aug ust 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

Red, wine and blue!

Rosé that’ll take you from a.m. to p.m.

A MERICAN SUMMER SIPS

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Heather Burton East Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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“Someone said drink the water, but I will drink the wine / Someone said take a poor man, the rich don’t have a dime / Go fool yourself, if you will, I just haven’t got the time / I’ll give you back your water, and I will take the wine.” – Frank Sinatra mysterious roots 3 The of Zinfandel. and slightly sweet, 5 Rich these sparkling sips from

6 8

Giorgi won’t let you down.

Expert picks for the summer’s best rosés.

Celebrating our freedom goes hand in hand with these amazing wines!

Wagner carries the 10 Jenny family torch into the future.

11 Drink like the Portuguese do.

12 14 15 16

A delicious grab-bag of some of the year’s best showing juice.

You’ll feel like you were in Piedmont, Italy, after diving into Paul’s journey.

Champagne is lovely, but we have some other ideas…

Wine to Watch: Hilt & Blade Cabernet Sauvignon This Atlas Peak Cab is every bit of luscious dark fruit and dimension that you’re craving.

Z I N FA N D E L’S ROO T S H E AT H E R B U R T O N • @ A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @ A B C F W S .C O M

I

don’t know about you but lately it seems

is like stepping into another time (in fact

like every day the world gets a little smaller –

the HBO television series “Game of Thrones”

in a good way. Of course modern technology

is filmed here). Stunningly intact, the level

is a huge catalyst bringing the far reaches of

of authenticity to experience here is

civilization closer together, but there is an-

life-changing. Like you do on vacation we

other contributor that I think plays just as big

found ourselves on a waterside terrace in the

of a role – history. If you’ve ever read “The

afternoon having a late lunch with wine from

Story of Wine” by Hugh Johnson then you

a nearby vineyard. Surely one could argue

know that wars have been fought, won and

that the profound joy I remember in that

fought again over this delectable juice. I’m a

moment could be attributed to the ‘situation’

lover, not a fighter, so for me the world gets a

and certainly the company. And while of

little closer when history and wine collide.

course this is very true, there was something

One of the most beautiful places that I have ever been is the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.

so familiar to me in that experience that it lingered on my senses.

Our journey began in Split and ended in

Alas, back to real life; the magic of the

Dubrovnik. Off of the Dalmatian Coast is an

Dalmatian Coast a distant memory until my

archipelago of more than 1,186 islands, 60 of

senses connect the dots of familiarity over

which are inhabited, and is the densest in the

a glass of Primativo di Manduria. Here is

Mediterranean Sea. If you take a ferry across

where history, if you will, makes the world a

from Split you can visit the largest Adriatic

little smaller in an amazing way. The Italian

island of Brač. As you sail you can see the

Primativo had long been theorized to be the

astonishing mass and beauty of pure white

original source of the varietal Zinfandel. In

limestone, part of which built the city walls

regard to origin, Zinfandel had been a bit

of Split and most of the walls at the White

of a mystery grape for more than a century.

House. My favorite thing from the island

It was known that Primativo and Zinfandel

was the sight of large bags of freshly-picked

are genetic twins, but it wasn’t until 2011

grapes being hauled into the doorway of a

when Carole Meredith, an American grape

stone barn where the winemaker – barefoot –

geneticist and professor at UC Davis, in

was preparing to stomp.

a collaboration with Croatian scientists

On the winding drive from Split down to Dubrovnik, the landscape was abounding with lush agriculture and the farther south we drove the more abundant the vinifera. The Adriatic Sea fronted the old town; it was also encircled with stone walls. Visiting Dubrovnik

proved that both Zinfandel and Primativo are genetic clones of the Croatian varietal Crljenak Kastelanski. The next time you enjoy a glass of Zinfandel, know that there are others around the world enjoying it with you, though it may be called a different name. o

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WINE LIST WHITES ARNEIS

Casina Chicco Roero Arneis Cru Anterisio, (p 12)

BLEND

Ca’ Momi Eterrea Timeless White (p 14)

(p 10) Torchbearer Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, Napa (p 14) Hilt & Blade Cabernet Sauvignon (p 16)

CHABLIS

MADEIRA Justino’s Rainwater Madeira (p 9)

CHARDONNAY

MERLOT Emmolo Merlot (p 10)

Gueguen Chablis (p 14) Pellegrini Côtes de Sonoma Chardonnay, (p 14) Pellegrini Unoaked Chardonnay (p 8)

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

Zinck Portrait Gewürztraminer (p 14)

RIESLING

NEBBIOLO Casina Chicco Langhe Nebbiolo (p 12) PINOT NOIR Hart & McGary Pinot Noir (p 8)

Wagner Riesling Select (p 8) Zinck Portrait Riesling (p 14)

TANNAT Domaine de Poujo (p 14)

Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc (p 10)

SAUVIGNON BLANC

ZINFANDEL Block 068 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel (p 9)

VINHO VERDE

ROSÉ

Quinta de Covela Avesso Edicao Nacional (p 11)

REDS

BARBERA

Agostino Pavia & Figli Bricco Blina (p 12) Agostino Pavia & Figli La Marescialla (p 12) Agostino Pavia & Figli Moliss (p 12) Casina Chicco Barbera d’Alba Granera Alta, (p 12)

BAROLO Casina Chicco Barolo Rocche di Castelletto, (p 12) Casina Chicco Barolo Riserva Ginestra (p 12)

BLEND The Inquisition (p 8)

Flor das Tecederias (p 11)

BORDEAUX BLEND Berger Bordeaux Superieur (p 14)

wine journal | 4

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,

Château Montaud Côtes de Provence Rosé, (p 7) Château Trians Rosé (p 6) Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé (p 14) Domaine Vetriccie Île de Beauté (p 7) Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé (p 7) High Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé (p 8) Pulse Grapefruit Rosé (p 7)

SPARKLING

Giorgi 1870 Brut (p 5) Giorgi Costarosa Sangue di Giuda 2015 (p 5) Giorgi Costarosa Sparkling (p 5) Giorgi Mosca Rosa 2014 (p 5) Giorgi Nadia Malvasia 2014 (p 5) Giorgi Platino Brut (p 5, 15) Giorgi Platino Pink Brut (p 5, 15) Graham Beck Brut Rosé (p 15) Graham Beck Brut (p 15)

It all started with Sangue di Giuda BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Sometimes you have to be in the right

at VinItaly. Fabiano and Eleonora have come

With the success of Costarosa, a sparkling

place at the right time. I had been buying

to Florida for Nadia’s annual wine tour. It’s

version, Giorgi Costarosa Sparkling ($17),

wines from Nadia Galati and her husband,

been one of the most successful cooperations

was created. It has more sparkle and qualifies

Chris Thompson, for some years before

and it all started by chance with a New Year’s

as spumante rather than frizzante. It’s also

they moved to America. My wife and I were

Eve party.

drier but with the same plum and

having New Year’s Eve dinner in 2009 with

blueberry notes.

Nadia and Chris when my son, Michael,

Giorgi Mosca Rosa ($14) is a blend of Mos-

called from a party and asked if I had ever

cato and Malvasia with some Croatina to add

heard of Sangue di Giuda. He had to spell

the color. Mosca Rosa is frizzante with mod-

it. I mentioned it to Nadia and she said kids

erate sugar in the end. It’s very floral from the

practically grow up on it in Milano, her

Moscato and makes a super summer wine.

hometown. And so, we ordered our first of

Giorgi Nadia Malvasia ($14) is 100% Malva-

thousands of pallets of Giorgi Costarosa.

sia with bright gold color, notes of peach and

The Giorgi winery in Canneto Pavese in the

apricot, medium body and moderate residual

Oltrepò Pavese of Lombardy is a family-run

sugar. It’s a good match for desserts.

winery dating from 1870. Fabiano Giorgi

The silver bottle of Giorgi Platino Brut

runs the operation of the winery and sales while his sister, Eleonora, handles adminis-

Eleonora, Fabiano and Ileana Giorgi

($20) gets your attention first but the wine

tration and his wife, Ileana, manages foreign

is equally impressive. It’s 100% Pinot Nero

relations. The family have acquired 60

(Pinot Noir) aged on its lees for six months.

hectares over time and obtain grapes from

With the quick start of Platino, Giorgi

another 300 hectares of their neighbors’

launched a pink version in a pink bottle,

vineyards on the rolling hills of the Oltrepò

Giorgi Platino Pink Brut ($20). It’s also

Pavese. The wines have been known in Eu-

100% Pinot Nero made the same way as the

rope and highly rated by publications—such

Platino but with some Pinot Noir added for

as Gambero Rosso—for years and recognition

the color.

is starting to come in America.

Giorgi 1870 Brut ($29) is the top sparkler

An American restaurant chain introduced a

and commemorates the beginning of the

sweet, sparkling red based on Moscato which

Giorgi family in winemaking in the area. It’s

soared immediately and brought customers in search of it to ABC. So Nadia and I tried it and asked Fabiano to make something similar. Mosca Rosa was born. It’s pinker but still based on Moscato. Giorgi launched it in Italy and was awarded a gold medal at the Concorso Nazionale. Success breeds success and Nadia Malvasia and four sparkling wines have followed. We have visited the winery and met with the Giorgis every year

100% Pinot Nero from the best sites on clay Eleonora, Brad and Fabiano Giorgi

Giorgi Costarosa Sangue di Giuda ($14) is a blend of local grapes: 45% Croatina, 45% Barbera and 10% Uva Rara. It’s deep purple in color with a slight fizz and only 7% alcohol

and limestone soil. The wine is aged after fermentation for 36 months and in bottle for another six months. It shows bright gold color, notes of apricot and vanilla, tiny bubbles and a rich, dry finish. o

and shows bright plum and blueberry notes.

There is moderate residual sugar and it can be slightly chilled. wine journal | 5

A ROSÉ S UMMER ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

T

he popularity of dry rosé wine from Southern France,

particularly Provence, is rapidly growing amongst wine enthusiasts; in a very short time the U.S. has become the world’s second largest consumer of dry rosé after France.

That makes even more sense here in Florida, where summer practically starts at the end of February. Dry rosés are light to medium-intensity, bright, fruity, perfectly refreshing on a hot summer day and are best with summertime cookouts.

For that reason, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits offers over a dozen different rosé wines from Southern France, at prices ranging from $10 to $27, all worth exploring. Our selection constantly varies because many dry rosés sell faster than we can replenish them these days. Here are some of our top sellers and a few favorites.

A personal favorite, Château Trians Rosé ($15) is a spectacular achievement and quite possibly the best rosé ever—but I may be biased. Round with rich texture, yet bright and fruity, this wine has perfect balance!

The vineyards at Château Trians were first planted to the vine 20 centuries ago when the domain’s lands were part of a large Roman villa, Villa Triana. The wine estate at Château Trians covers 49 acres of organically farmed vineyards in the Massif of Cuers, 30 kilometers north of Toulon in Provence, France.

Most of the wine is produced under the Côteaux Varois en Provence Appellation.

The current owner, Jean-Louis Masurel, acquired the estate in 1989. Today, the winery at Château Trians is equipped with the latest and greatest vinification equipment. The wine is a matter of love, intuition and precision.

Château Trians Rosé, a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Cinsault and 10% Syrah, exhibits light salmon-pink color and aromas and flavors of strawberry, cranberry and field flowers. The mouthfeel is rich and perfectly balanced with pure fruit, refreshing acidity, medium intensity and a long, round finish.

Enjoy as apéritif or served with mixed salads, seafood dishes, grilled meats and aged cheeses.

wine journal | 66

Château Montaud is one of five wine estates

salmon-pink color and aromas and flavors of

several flavors were offered, including straw-

owned by the Ravel family, where Fred Ravel

strawberries, red currant and white peaches

berry, raspberry and apple.

is not just the owner but also the winemaker

with a touch of orange peel. This well-balanced

behind these wonderful wines.

and refreshing rosé will be perfect served as

The domain is located in the heart of the Massif de Maures, a plateau formation of medium elevation, where the vineyards alternate

an apéritif, with light appetizers, mixed salads,

grapefruit!

grilled fish and fresh seafood, cold cuts and

Pulse Grapefruit Rosé ($8) is quality rosé

your favorite Mediterranean dishes.

from Southern France with natural grapefruit flavors. This style comes from a French tradi-

with lavender fields, cork-oak forests and the indigenous garrigue shrubs. The authentic and

But only one has survived the market test—

tion of adding a touch of fruit juice/syrup to Domaine de Pellehaut is located in Gascony,

a glass of wine. The freshness of this everyday

an area of Southwest France less than a 2-hour

wine is perfectly balanced by the vibrancy of

drive south of Bordeaux. Gascony is off the

the citrus fruit, tangy aromas of natural grape-

beaten path; tourists are still rare around there,

fruit and touch of peach, resulting in a vibrant

A classic example of the style, Côtes de

and that keeps it one of the most authentic and

and refreshing drink. Serve chilled or over ice

Provence Rosé ($12) exhibits pale salmon-pink

untouched provinces in France.

as an apéritif or with light appetizers. o

quiet back-country area is far away from the tourist crowds of the Côte d’Azure and is source of the world’s best rosé wines.

color and aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries, raspberries, wild flowers and a long, vibrant finish. Enjoy as apéritif or pair with mixed salads, roasted vegetables, black olive tapenade, goat cheese, seafood dishes and grilled fish.

Martin and Mathieu Béraut are the two brothers at the reins of this large 180 hectares, 300-year-old family wine estate, one of the oldest vineyards in the Gers department. The domain also produces a range of Armagnacs and has a cattle farm as well, all this in the harmony of rich surrounding biodiversity.

Corsican rosé wines are the newest trend

Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé ($8) from Do-

on the red-hot U.S. market. They are stylisti-

maine de Pellehaut, a blend of Merlot, Caber-

cally very similar to those from Provence, pale

net, Tannat and Syrah, exhibits raspberry pink

in color, dry and fruity, but with their specific

color and aromas and flavors of strawberries,

minerality.

raspberries and lavender. Enjoy with grilled

Domaine Vetriccie is nestled between the sea

meats, grilled vegetables, fish and mixed salads.

and mountains along the Corsican coast near the town of Aghione, on the Costa Serena plateau. The domain, 120 hectares in the heart of the appellation Vin de Corse, was purchased by the Barcelo family in 1966. Daniel Barcelo, the current owner with wine experience in the New World, is firmly committed to a viticulture in harmony with the local terroir.

About five years ago a new trend emerged in the rosé wine market, flavored rosé. These are refreshing, low-calorie, off-dry and fruity wines. In a very short time they became a favorite with European consumers and not just with wine beginners. Flavored rosés became popular with anyone who wanted a cool

Domaine Vetriccie Île de Beauté ($10), a blend

refresher on a hot summer day with or without

of the local grapes Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu

food. Millions of cases were sold mostly in the

with Grenache and Merlot, exhibits a pale,

Mediterranean summer resort towns. Initially wine journal | 7

Your Celebratory Guide to 4th of July Food & Wine Pairings BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

S

While everyone relaxes and the

pair very well with a good

of July as you celebrate the

coals on the grill are getting

barbecue.) A traditional style

birth of independence in our

warm, it’s time to cook some

hot dog just screams out for a

land – beer or wine? Both are

shrimp and scallops on a

dry rosé, that most friendly of

fine choices and both fit the bill

skewer with a light coating of

food pairing wines. Interest in

admirably as a pairing for our

olive oil and lemon juice. For

dry rosé is finally beginning

traditional outdoor cookouts.

outdoor summer sipping we

to trend in this country and

Beer has definitely been the

heartily recommend Wagner

Americans are truly beginning

favorite to date and still has its

Riesling Select ($19) from

to understand and enjoy this

place among a growing number

the Finger Lakes in New York

most delightful of outdoor and

of craft beer fans. But we should

state. This is a quality, drier

lunchtime wines. Try High

also remember that the USA

style Riesling that is fine on its

Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

is now the largest wine con-

own but is a not-to-be-missed

Rosé ($10) from Lake County,

suming country in the world,

natural with grilled seafood.

California. If you prefer a red

o which will it be this 4th

beating out the other top five contenders (in order) – France, Italy, Germany and China. And U.S. wine consumption is still on the rise!

Next on the menu is a little fried chicken, simple and always delicious. With this you might want to sip a lighter,

recommend Hart & McGarry Pinot Noir ($14) from Monterey County, California.

leaner, crisper style of Char-

Steak is usually regarded as the

With this in mind it seems

donnay. While the traditional

ultimate food from the grill

fitting that we offer a few sug-

California style of Chardonnay

and with this you will need a

gestions of wines you might like

is big, buttery and oak-laden,

big, bold red wine. Cabernet

to pair with your traditional

there is a trend now toward a

Sauvignon is of course a natural

outdoor feast.

leaner style, and great example

and there are many excellent

of this is Pellegrini Unoaked

examples from Napa, Sonoma

Chardonnay ($22) from Rus-

and many other American

sian River Valley in Sonoma

Viticultural Areas. But as this is

County.

the 4th of July we suggest that

Most wine lovers, in their hearts, regard wine as an international passion, and with so many fine wines being offered from so many countries it is

Now to the burgers and the hot

quite natural that they enjoy a

dogs. Red blends are very popu-

plethora of styles and varieties.

lar right now and as luck would

It does seem appropriate, how-

have it they are often a great

ever, in celebrating the birth of

match for the good old ham-

our great country, that for this

burger. We recommend The

one day we should choose (with

Inquisition ($16) from North

one possible exception) all

Coast in California which is a

American wines. So here goes!

tempting blend of Syrah and Zinfandel. (This wine will also

wine journal | 8

wine with your frankfurter we

you pair a quality Zinfandel with that steak. Zinfandel, after all, is the nearest we have to a true all-American quality wine grape variety. Yes, it has its forbears, under various names, in southern Italy and Eastern Europe (including Croatia— check out the story on page 3).

But as grown in the terroir of

California, Zinfandel suddenly

from the Portuguese island off

Justino’s Rainwater Madeira

takes on its own unique and un-

the coast of Morocco. From

($18), which will pair with

questionably American identity.

colonial times right up through

many of your desserts as well

We heartily recommend Block

the American Civil War, Madei-

as your post-cookout cigar.

068 Old Vine Reserve Zinfan-

ra was America’s favorite wine.

del ($15) from Contra Costa

George Washington reportedly

County in California.

drank a bottle of it a day. Thom-

For those of you wanting to finish the meal with something rich and sweeter we recommend one wine that is not American but has a distinct place in American history – Madeira, that fortified wine

A toast—to America! o

as Jefferson sipped it while writing much of the Declaration of Independence. If only for these reasons alone we hope you will allow this one foreign import to join your all-American wine line-up. We recommend

wine journal | 9

WAGNER Family of Wine MEGHAN GUARINO • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • MEGHANG@ABCFWS.COM

H

Caymus was founded by Chuck and his

as Caymus, Conundrum, Belle Glos,

parents in 1972. Since then, the Rutherford

Meiomi and Mer Soleil, the Wagner family

Cab has consistently been heralded for its

of Rutherford, California, is not new to

complexity and consistency, a trait that is

the business. But a name that is fairly new

not unique to just this wine.

aving created such well-known wines

to the craft is Jenny Wagner, winemaker of Emmolo Merlot ($54) and Sauvignon Blanc ($20), daughter of Chuck Wagner and sister to winemakers Charlie and Joe.

Every Wagner wine stands out among others in its category as a wine with remarkable character true to the terroir. From the Pinot Noirs made by Joe at Belle Glos to the Chardonnays crafted at Mer Soleil by Charlie and the supple Merlots and crisp Sauvignon Blancs made by Jenny, the Wagner family has focused their passion to create unique wines of quality and reverence.

Jenny attributes part of her family’s success to friendly competition. “There is a competitive nature that exists between all of us

The Emmolo name was part of Jenny’s family long before the brand. “Emmolo is my mom’s maiden name,” Jenny explained.

And it was her mother’s project until 2012, when Jenny took over winemaking and reintroduced Emmolo as a brand under the Wagner Family of Wine umbrella. “I’ve kept the name Emmolo,” Jenny said, “but everything about the wine has changed.

The styles of the wines have changed, the packaging has changed. Ultimately it is kind of a new brand.”

“Stylistically, the Sauvignon Blanc is light, crisp. I like Sancerre, so my goal for my Sauvignon Blanc is stylistically similar to Sancerre,” Jenny explained. “Whereas the Merlot is similar to our Cab as far as being rich, ripe, supple.” The Cab she’s talking about is Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75 ) made by her father, Chuck Wagner, a wine that has seen accolades and high ratings vintage after vintage.

wine journal | 10

that’s really fun,” she said. “It keeps us all on our toes. It’s something that pushes us to work harder and try something that will make the wine more special… Fortunately we’re all focused on different varietals. But I think there’s a little competition as far as making the best wine. If one of my brothers makes a great wine, it pushes me to want to make my wines that much better.”

Stop by your local ABC Fine Wine & Spirits for a selection of wines from the Wagner family and see what a tradition, passion and a little competition can do for an already incredible line-up of wine. o

The Everyday Wines of Portugal JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

W

hile Portugal is known for fortified wines

like Porto and Madeira, it also produces some wonderful table wines that are great values. In the north of the country, the dynamic regions of the Douro and Vinho Verde are building on a steady wine evolution reaching beyond tradition, convention and the status quo.

Dry wines from the Douro Valley of Portugal are certainly not a new notion – although in the 1950s, the idea of making any wine in the region other than traditional Port was a novice thought. Remarkably, it’s been nearly 65 years since the venerable Port lodge of Ferreira released the first table wine from local grape

Flor das Tecedeiras ($17) is a full-bodied

ruins of the Casa de Covela. During much

red comprised of all five of the estate’s native

of the 20th century the vineyards and winery

grapes. Head winemaker Carlos Lucas ages the

were owned by Portugal’s most important film

wine for 10 months in oak resulting in a heady

director, Manoel de Oliveira. Since 2011, Quin-

bouquet of crushed raspberries with hints of

ta de Covela has been in the hands of current

violet. Displaying ample black plum, damson

owners Tony Smith and Marcelo Lima. The es-

fruit and mineral on the palate, it’s very ap-

tate comprises 18 hectares of vineyards planted

Nowadays it is the concept of not making

proachable now, especially with grilled meats.

primarily to native Portuguese varieties Avesso,

high-quality table wines for everyday enjoy-

The wine’s round, ripe tannins should allow for

Arinto and Touriga Nacional. Additionally,

ment that would seem foreign. Virtually all of

further development; it should gain complexity

there are some parcels of international varieties

the major lodges and boutique quintas deliver

with short-term cellaring.

including Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot,

varieties without added grape spirit. For many decades that wine, Barca Velha, was both a pioneering step and a solitary outlier, as it wouldn’t be until the ’90s that other great Port houses in the Douro would embrace the production of unfortified table wines in earnest.

wines that can be paired throughout the whole meal versus just for dessert or as a digestif.

Located in the historic Minho province along

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

its rugged Atlantic coast, Portugal’s Vinho

The winemaking team of Rui Cunha and

Verde appellation is synonymous with the

Gonçalo Sousa Lopes implement wholly

famed “green wine” produced in the region.

organic methods in both the vineyards and

Quinta das Tecedeiras is located in the prime

Traditional Vinho Verde makes a solid, un-

winery leading to impressive results in their

Cima Corgo sub-region along the banks of the

complicated quaffing wine for pairing with

finished wines.

Douro River, just upstream from the historic

petiscos, the Portuguese style of tapas. It is

town of Pinhão. The estate is a recent purchase

light and crisp and often has a noticeable fizzy

for owners Tony Smith and Marcelo Lima who

spritz, thanks to the addition of carbon dioxide

also own Quinta de Covela. The pair oversees

to the wine. Conventional Vinho Verde is

67 hectares of vineyards planted to native vari-

typically made from the local Alvarinho and

eties Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta

Loureiros varieties. However, there’s a handful

Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Roriz. Much

of Vinho Verde producers intent on making a

of the vineyards at the estate are old vine, with

more substantial white wine from the aromatic

plantings exceeding 80 years of age.

Avesso grape and without the CO₂ spritz.

Tecedeiras means “weavers” and refers to the

The history of the Quinta de Covela estate

nuns from São Pedro das Águias Convent who

reaches back to the 1500s and the old castle

These wines are expressive of the Douro’s indigenous varietals and diverse terroir.

weaved local flax into linen.

Quinta de Covela Avesso Edicao Nacional ($15) is fermented in stainless steel vats with sur-lie aging for added richness. It is an elegant, complex Vinho Verde completely devoid of any spritz. Vibrant citrus and pear notes give way to an enticing floral nose, leading to a focused finished with a touch of minerality.

An ideal wine to serve alongside grilled fish or paired with sushi and sashimi. o

wine journal | 11

EXPLORING PIEDMONT, PART I PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

O

ver the years I’ve been blessed with the good fortune of being able to visit Italy numerous times. Most of my sojourns have been tightly scheduled endeavors that usually evolve around VinItaly, a major wine trade show held every year in the enchanting northern Italian city of Verona. Occasionally I get presented with the opportunity to visit a winery or region after VinItaly and I almost always enthusiastically say yes when time permits. Puglia, Sardinia and the Valtellina are on the top of my list of fascinating places I have ventured to over the past couple of years after leaving Verona.

Last month I was asked to attend an alternative wine trade show known as Prowein held in Dusseldorf, Germany. Having never attended Prowein I was grateful for the opportunity but saddened by the fact that I wouldn’t be able to explore another region of Italy this year. That is until I woke up and realized it wouldn’t make any difference whether I was venturing out from Dusseldorf or Verona.

After three hectic days at Prowein I took a 45-minute flight over the Alps to Milan and set off for the magical hillside landscape of Piedmont. Before I get ahead of myself let me explain that I have been to Piedmont before but with Piedmont being the home of some of Italy’s most cherished wines I felt it was important to spend a few days rather than a few hours to fully appreciate this captivating little corner of Italy.

My first destination was a 2-hour drive south from Milan to a part

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of Piedmont known as Asti. Asti is both a territory which was proclaimed in the second century B.C. Today Asti is a historic old European town perhaps best known for its sweet sparkling wine, Asti DOCG. Around the world Asti means Spumante but Asti is also the home to one of the noblest Piedmontese wines, Barbera d’Asti.

a short drive to the west, cross the Tanaro River and visit a much less known region. Roero lives in the shadow of Barolo and Barbaresco both literally and in the eyes of the consumer. The main town of Roero is Canale and this is where you can find a winery that has become in recent years a benchmark for all of Roero.

Agostino Pavia & Figli is a small family winery in the heart of the Barbera d’Asti production area.

When I arrived, brothers Giuseppe and Mauro were hard at work in the winery along with their 85-year-old father, Agostino. Mauro took some time away from the bottling line to show me the vineyards where the three crus or single vineyards Bricco Blina, Moliss and La Marescialla are produced. As is the case with all quality wines, the vineyard is where everything begins with scrupulous attention to land management. After the harvest in late September or early October each cru undergoes a different aging process. Bricco Blina ($13) is refined in stainless steel vats to maintain a bright, fruit-driven style. Moliss ($15) sees 12 months in a variety of French and Austrian oak barrels. La Marescialla ($27) is the biggest, most intense of the three wines, spending a full 12+ months in barriques before being bottled.

Cascina Chicco is a spectacular new winery situated in the hills looking down on Canale. The Faccenda family has been producing wine here since the early 1950s but only recently have they caught the atten-

Whichever wine you choose you will be taking home one of the best examples of Barbera produced in the Asti region.

Just south of Asti are the famous regions Barolo and Barbaresco, but on this day my plans were to make

tion of the major wine publications.

Lara Faccenda greeted me upon my arrival and proceeded to give me an intensive education on the history, culture and gastronomy of her beautiful home. With a breathtaking view of the Alps on three sides it is truly a majestic location to produce wine.

Look for the following wines on our shelves from Cascina Chicco: Roero Arneis ($21), Barbera d’Alba Granera Alta ($22), Langhe Nebbiolo ($22), Barolo Rocche di Castelletto ($140, 1.5L) and Barolo Riserva Ginestra ($93).

I continued on with visits to Barolo, Barbaresco and Dogliani before returning home. I still have so much more to share about this astonishingly beautiful area so rich in history, culture, natural beauty and of course great wines, but it will have to wait for our next edition of the Wine Journal. o

Giuseppe, Agostino and Mauro Pavia Lara Faccenda

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A Few of My Favorite Things!

S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

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s always, we are constantly on the search for new

and different wines. In fact, that is one of the most exciting facets of working in the wine industry. Just when we think we have tasted everything we own, each winery turns out another vintage, and we get to start the process again from the beginning! In the past year, we have added wines from places like Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, Corsica and the village of Auxerre in northern France. And not because they are obscure or oddities, but because they produce wines with a sense of terroir.

My little world of wines is full of the ‘killer Bs’: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello, etc., along with my favorite white wines like white Burgundy, Albarino and Sauvignon Blanc. Here are a few new additions that have recently been added to our inventory as well as my wine play list: From the lovely state of California, offered for your consideration, are three gems that deserve your attention!

Cabernet, but—by about ten bucks—one of the best values from this esteemed American Viticultural Area!

Atanas (page 6-7) has been hard at work restocking the French shelves over the past year and has chalked up a few home runs in the process. The new Gueguen Chablis ($19) is my favorite white. A steely laser beam of chalky, mineral-driven Chardonnay, racy as the day is long and simply off the charts with a plate of oysters or shellfish.

Just arriving in late April, the new line of Alsace whites from Philippe Zinck are finally here. We dipped into his entry level tier the ‘Portrait’ labels, and both the Riesling ($16) and the off-dry Gewürztraminer ($14) are worth investigating. I really like Alsace Riesling with crab, and the Gewürztraminer, with its residual sweetness, is cooling and calming with Thai and other spicy foods, especially curry.

Moving up the weight scale, the new Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé ($17) is beautiful! It’s no secret I love my

The Eterra ($10) is a dry-ish white blend from our

rosé, and Tavel is at the top of my pecking order along

friends at Ca’ Momi, light and crisp, with floral and

with Bandol. This full-bodied wine just explodes with

peachy aromas and flavors. Dry but not searingly so,

flavor, red berries and spring freshness. A bowl of

its lovely fruitiness makes it a nice seafood wine and

garlicky tapenade, some crusty bread and a glass of

a refreshing summer sipper.

this is heaven on Earth.

The Côtes de Sonoma Chardonnay, Sonoma County,

Domaine de Poujo ($10) might be the best deal in

is possibly the best drinking $10 Chardonnay you

healthy wine we offer! It is 100% Tannat, from the

will encounter in your quest for the best unoaked

Southwest France village of Madiran. Medium-bod-

wine. This clean and crisp, yet somehow still ripe and

ied and fruit driven, it is the easiest drinking of the

round, Sonoma County wine is unoaked and has no

healthy reds we offer, and the best priced!

malo, so it remains vibrant at the same time.

Lastly, we found a little Bordeaux which you might

Third from the Golden State, the Torchbearer Caber-

want to pick up. At $12, not many red Bordeaux have

net Sauvignon Oakville, Napa ($33), is not going

the ‘roots’ of this wine. Berger is a Bordeaux Superieur

to stick around forever. We sourced this Oakville AVA

made by Jonathan Maltus, the British fella who made

Cabernet from Elliot Stern, the fella who makes Oakville

the le Dome 2010, a Parker-rated 100-point wine!

East Exposure. Not only a delicious, rich and ripe

Berger is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Cabernet Franc that really over-delivers for the price. o

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When is Champagne not Champagne?

DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

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his is a pretty obvious riddle if you know

the flavor components we associate with

anything about sparkling wines. In a way

red wine. This longer contact with the skins

Champagne is the first “brand name” that be-

not only gives color but more flavor. A good

came the name for every other similar product,

brut rosé also pairs with foods we don’t always

like Kleenex, Hoover or Frigidaire, a hundred

associate with sparkling wine, like roasted

years before name branding. Champagne

meats and roasted vegetables as well as

means sparkling wine to most Americans, even

tomato-based dishes.

though the name should truly be reserved for the French sparkling wine “Le Champagne” from the French region of “La Champagne.” But since they were the first to brand and market their product, they will always be synonymous with sparkling wine.

One of my favorite sparkling wines from an alternative locale is Graham Beck from South Africa. They make both a Brut Rosé ($16) as well as a classic Brut ($16) using the Champagne blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Rosé has a little extra time on the lees to develop subtle yeasty undertones yet erupts with cherry and berry flavors on the palate, holding onto a finishing acidity. In the Brut we get all the classic flavors of a true brut Champagne with yeasty richness and zesty citrus characters, a fine mousse on the palate and sustained bubbles. No doubt these are the best sparkling wines I’ve ever had from South Africa.

Sparkling wine can be part of any celebration, regardless of where in the world they’re made especially since sparkling wine is great to pair with lighter, summer fare. A crisp brut bubbly pairs with raw oysters as well as any lager beer.

The range of bubbly styles means there is a style for every taste profile. From extra brut to demi sec, there is a sparkling wine for your palate’s preference.

Let’s turn to Lombardy in Northern Italy and Giorgi who produces a number of popular, sweet frizzante wines but also makes a gorgeously bottled Platino line from 100% Pinot Nero, or Pinot Noir. The shiny, mirrored bottles would appeal to any magpie, but it is the quality of the juice inside that makes this nontraditionally-located sparkling wine stand out! A family business since 1875, the new generation has

expanded their production to create drier style bubblies in the traditional Champagne style.

The Pink Platino ($20) is just a hint fruitier, without being thickly sweet. The light pink color and the beautiful matching bottle make it the perfect gift any time of year. The Platino Brut ($20) is softer, but it still has that wheatberry and biscuit flavor profile, with just a hint of green apple, making it another food-friendly sparkler with a little more accessibility.

Summer is here! Think about drinking some refreshing sparkling wine from less traditional areas. All of these alternative bubblies are under $20 per bottle, which makes them a real bargain when compared to Champagnes starting at $30.

Go off the beaten path and discover some new sparkling wines that might surprise you! Any day can be a sparkling celebration! o

“But I only like red wine!” Aside from sparkling Australian Shiraz, we don’t have a wealth of sparkling red wines, and many of the frizzante reds skew to the sweeter side. I do find that the classic, yeasty complexity of true Champagne appeals to RWOs (Red Wine Onlies) where mineral richness combines with brioche creaminess to give a complex mouthfeel. We also have a vast array of brut rosé wines that incorporate more of the skins, and as such have more of wine journal | 15

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C O L O R:

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F I N I S H:

Long and saturated RE GI O N :

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