F.M.P
Action Plan
Week 1(9th, 10th, 11th) History of Brand Trend Forecasting Existing customer profile
Week 2: Wednesday Business Plan (Name of range, tag line, customer profile, short-mid-long terms goals) Practice Interview Thursday: Range Building Financial Spreadsheet Friday: Financial Spreadsheet analysis
Week 3 (23rd, 24th, 25th) Continuing Reflective Log online and in a book
Week 4 (30th, 31st, 1st) Practice Pitch Pitching to Matalan Evaluation of Pitch
Task 1: History Of The Brand
Matalan is a value retailer with the tagline ‘Made For Modern Families’
They have a click and collect service to the store, and the store can hold onto the item for up to 4 weeks before it is refunded. This makes it flexible for the families.
Matalan has 217 stores, and a website. They have been successful because they have chosen locations in the UK with free parking and late night openings.
History of MATALAN
Matalan became a public limited company in 2007.
Started in 1985 by John Hargreaves. John Hargreaves went into the retail business when he was 16, and opened the first Matalan store in Preston in 1985.
Matalan was one of the first retailer to have a membership card. It cost £1 and only members could shop at Matalan. Now it’s free, and gives millions of customers offers and chances to save with every purchase.
Matalan has 200 stores today, with two high street stores; Liverpool Williamson Square, and Oxford Street.
The website launched in 2008 to industry acclaim.
Over 12 million families shop with Matalan, and has been awarded a Gold Award at the Mumsnet Family Friendly awards for a second year running.
References About Matalan - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/corporate [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Matalan have an Ethical Sourcing policy that has been in place for twenty years. They have internal audits conducted by professionals, with backgrounds in manufacturing and factory safety.
Task 1: History Of The Brand Matalan opened its first store in Preston in 1985, it was not in the same places that other retailers were. They bought locations that were out of town ‘shed’ stores, with ample free parking, and late night shopping. John Hargreaves was the principal owner up until 2006 when the company floated on the stock market, and has since left the leadership role of the company. However, he is still a shareholder and still has an interest in the development of the Matalan brand. Matalan has over 200 stores in the UK, and they directly target families. Their tag line is ‘Made for Modern Families’, and their whole ethos is providing affordable on-trend fashion for the whole family with offers and discounts throughout the
year with the Matalan Reward Card. The reward card used to be a membership card, and many customers still have the original card when it cost £1 to join the retailer as a customer. Today it is a free reward card, and is used to increase the amount of new customer whilst holding on to existing customers with different levels of benefits. The red card is the first card a customer can sign up for, and if they spend over £200 a year they can then be given the black card, which is for the VIP customers. This offers a higher amount of offers. Every customer will receive a birthday voucher worth £5 off on the day of their birthday. Matalan is aware of the importance of technology, especially since the key target market of 18-34 year olds are glued to their mobile phones, and it is another way of marketing new products, offers, and sales events to the customer. There is a 10% one time discount offered after the first time that you download it to your mobile phone. They launched their website in 2008 and now offer a click and collect service to their customers who may be busy with work or with family duties to wait in the house all day for a delivery. The click and collect service is free and at the till points offers are handed to customers with discounts over a certain price point online if they choose to use the click and collect service. Not only does this increase customer flow to the store when they pick up their delivery, it could increase add on purchases and make them aware of their local
area store. The hangers are not given away, and are recycled instead which is company policy. Matalan is conscious about ethical sourcing. Matalan has kept a tough stance on ethical sourcing for the two decades. This includes regular industry standard audits, by professionals within the manufacturing field. Health and safety is audited by an independent leading organisation that monitor work conditions in garment factories. Internal audits check the well being of the employees in the factories, this could help them produce in-depth information about the suppliers for Matalan. All suppliers have to sign a document that states they will comply with the Matalan Sourcing Policy. Matalan has kept long term relationships with their suppliers since the beginning, and they are constantly making improvements to how their sourcing and producing the materials for their garments. Since the Rana Plaza incident Matalan has been surrounded in controversy about how they dealt with the matter as a business overall, even though they may not have had mass volume garment production inside the Rana Plaza factory. Matalan has
signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, along with other retailers worldwide, and is also working with the BRAC on their Rana Plaza Survivor Rehabilitation Scheme. This active pursuit of safety and promotion of employee well being within their supply chain is conveyed on their website with clarity and is informative to the customer. Along with the discussion of ethical sourcing they also talk about their suspension of sourcing Angora wool due to safety and the effects on animals. Even thought Matalan stated that they had samples manufactured in the Rana Plaza, they finally added to the compensation kitty for the survivors and the re-building of the community. Matalan offers affordable on-trend fashion 50% below the equivalent High Street price, and when other retailers could be struggling due to the economy and misunderstanding of their customer and current customer behaviour within their target market, Matalan are using different methods to keep a stronghold in that important demographic. They have the Abbey Clancy range, which has been successful in promoting brand awareness, as well as the Julian McDonald footwear and swimwear ranges. Matalan has also acquired smaller struggling brands like FWM, as well as their long standing brands Papaya Weekend, Collection, and Classic. Falmer Heritage is more of an American Midwest style range, with Soon which is a higher quality range for the older customer, Classic, SoulLuxe, SoleFlex. Matalan also sells Menswear and Childrenswear; the brands in menswear include Easy (casual wear), Easy Classic (Casual wear for older customers, Taylor and Wright (Suits, shirts, ties, and formal wear. 24/7 a Jeff Banks range, Farah Classic designed by Farah, W10 by Julien McDonald, and Pringle (a range of underwear). Childrenswear have Disney, Denim 73 for Boyswear fashion, and Candy Couture for girls aged 9-16. Matalan also have acquired Sporting Pro which launched in 2013. 1% of their profits for Sporting Pro go to Sporting Promise charity. Matalan also have a connection with a lot of North West charities, especially with Alder Hey who they have collaborated with for two charity campaigns; Alphabet Scarf, which included a charity single by Pixie Lott that was shown on television through out the Christmas period in 2014, and the Beanie and Bobble hats with proceeds going to Alder Hey during the 2015 Christmas period. Both of these charity events were high profile and included big name celebrities like Britney Spears and Justin Bieber. At the end of 2015 Matalan launched Matalan Direct, an extension of their homeware range to include baths and bedroom furniture at low prices. This shows the entrepreneurial spirit in their business strategy, and how they are trying to compete with other retailers like NEXT and Marks and Spencer, by undercutting their prices with better value furniture products that can be bought the same time the customer buys new clothes for the spring, and new towels for the bathroom.
References About Matalan - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/corporate [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Womenswear
The Matalan customer can be between the age of 18 to the age of 80. However, the target market that is the key demographic for the store is between 18 and 35. The Matalan customer is loyal, and shops with the company from a young age to an older age, and the variety of ranges reflects that. However, with the introduction of Abbey Clancy as their first celebrity endorsed and designed womenswear range, it could be said that the target market currently that Matalan are designing for is the 18-35 age range for women. The current Spring/Summer range utilises basic shapes, colours and repetitive
patterns to allow the customer to build an outfit from various ranges; jersey, blouses, formal, and ‘we love’. The patterns are repeated as it is cost effective, and does not necessarily have to be worn together, but can be if the customer so chooses. The history of the brand shows that there is extensive trend forecasting taking place within head office by the buyers, however the key pieces that are picked out from the catwalk and from trade shows are colour, print, and shapes with a small group of products from each range targeted at 18-35 market that follows fashion for example, the faux-suede olive green biker jacket that is a higher price range, with other pieces more suited to the older customer, for example blouses
with the same design as other seasons that were successful but with an on-trend colour from that particular season that are a lower price.
References New Arrivals | Womenswear | Matalan - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/womens/highlights/womens-newarrivals [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
References Faux Suede Biker Jacket - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/product/detail/s2621700/faux-suede-biker-jacket [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Womenswear Spring/Summer ‘16 Mood Board
“ M a t a l a n ’s S p r i n g / S u m m e r w o m e n s w e a r 2 0 1 6 c o l l e c t i o n s e e s h e r o t r e n d s i n c l u d i n g I n d i g o T r a v e l l e r, G y p s e t R o m a n c e , S a i l A w a y a n d Meadow Land alongside more romantic and nostalgic looks. From soft
70s boho styles and tailoring to tropical prints, the new season invites the wearer to explore their individual style. Key pieces include maxi skirts, midi dresses, pussy bow blouses, longline tops
and printed wide leg trousers. Swimwear features streamline silhouettes and figure flattering details perfect for the poolside…”
References SS16 Lookbooks - Matalan - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/look-books/ss16 [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Visual Merchandising and Technology
Instagram Matalan Liverpool is regularly updated by the visual merchandisers Sophie Gallagher and Lisa Raybould. Matalan is active on social media in order to promote new ranges, creative visual merchandising, and launches of sales. The style is directed at the 18-34 target market due to the fact that Liverpool Williamson Square is the first High Street store within the Matalan brand. It has to compete with New Look, River Island, NEXT, and Primark.
References @matalanliverpool • Instagram photos and videos. (2016). [online] Instagram.com. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/matalanliverpool/ [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Organisational Chart Head Office
Chairman
CEO Financial Manager Head Buyer
Head Merchandiser Assistant Merchandiser
Assistant Buyer Head Designer
Trainee Buyer/ BAA
Trainee Designer
Trainee Merchandiser/ BAA
Garment/Footwear Technologist
Assistant Designer
Customer Service
Quality Assurance Officer
Visual Merchandiser
Online Styling
Fit Model
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Organisational Chart, Store
Store Manger
Deputy Manager
Administration Assistants
Womenswear Manager
Menswear Manager
Full Time Sales Assistant
Part-Time Sales Assistant
Kidswear Manager Full Time Sales Assistant
Full Time Sales Assistant
Part-Time Sales Assistant
Cleaner
Part-Time Sales Assistant
Security Guard
Visual Merchandisers
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Global Strategy
Matalan is growing its international portfolio of stores, with three stores in Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Jordan. According to the Express, the growth strategy has been funded through ‘the £525million refinancing package it secured from investors earlier this year after abandoning its plans to sell the business to private equity…’ (Express, 2013). According to Chief Executive Alistair McGeorge, ‘This has been an exciting year in what remain a challenging market. We remain convinced of the continuing relevance of our offer to UK customers and are now reaching out to new customers…’. (Express, 2013). There is a website, www.Matalan-me.com that allows customers from the Middle East to view the products online, and locate a store close to them to purchase the products. It is clear on this website that they are aware of the modesty laws, and showcase products that are suitable to the Middle East market. There are 20 stores located within the Middle East. Matalan opened its first store in the Middle East in June, 2009, (Matalan About Us). In 2008 their goal was to open 15 stores in the Middle East within 5 years (Matalan-me.com), and they have exceeded that goal. This shows there is potential for the Matalan company to achieve profitable success with their ranges, and developing ranges, across the globe. References Administrator, m. (2009). Matalan speeds up expansion plans. [online] men. Available at: http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/business/business-news/matalan-speeds-up-expansion-plans-921777 [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. Arabian Center, Wafi Mall, Al Ghurair Center, Lamcy Plaza, Mirdif City Center, Century Mall, RAK Mall, Sahara Center, Al Ain Foah Mall, Mushrif Mall, Khalidiya Mall, and Dalma Mall, (2016). MATALAN UAE | Sale & Offers | Locations | Store Info. [online] Shoppinginformer.com. Available at: http://www.shoppinginformer.com/stores/Matalan/6 [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. Craik, D. (2010). Global goal for fashionable Matalan. [online] Express.co.uk. Available at: http://www.express.co.uk/finance/city/183242/Global-goal-for-fashionable-Matalan [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Promotions & Charity Matalan has a lot of different methods of getting customers into the store, and buying their products. They have a reward card that used to cost £1 to sign up as a member to shop at Matalan, but it is now free. It is a great way for the marketing department to send information to the customer about when sales start, vouchers for new promotional periods during the selling period, birthday vouchers that give customers £5 off over £30 that they spend in store, and New Deal invoices that are provided to prospective job seekers who can’t afford to buy an outfit for a job interview, they can get up to £70 to purchase a whole outfit so they have a better chance of getting a job. This is a positive side of Matalan, as they do not advertise this to their customer, it is something that is offered to job seekers around the country. However, this can incur a lot of problems, for example they can have people who take the top sheet off the New Deal and photocopy it and then go to other Matalan stores to get free clothes as many times as they want until they get caught. This however is prevented with training in store to all employees during the briefs that start before every shift. Matalan also target ‘add on sales’ throughout the queue leading up to the tills, and at the till points. ‘Products Of The Week’ are offered at the till by cashiers, and company competitions with the stores are encouraged to compete to achieve KPI’s that include registrations for the Matalan reward card, selling products of the week like socks and candles etc. This is psychologically pushed throughout the queue area. Matalan frequently compete with NEXT and Marks and Spencer when they have sales in the July and August, and in December and January. They advertise online, in store, and they have employees walk the streets to bring in customers and increase the footfall into the store. Every time they have a sale hey advertise on television and use it as an opportunity in store to sign up new customers to the Matalan reward card so they can send them promotional offers and continue to bring them into the store and turn them into a loyal customer. They have also introduced the Matalan reward card app that you can download for free and associate the Matalan reward card to the customer and receive a one-time offer of 10% off on everything in store, including sale. Signing up to the Matalan card also gives the customer student discount worth 10% off full price items if they have a NUS card. Matalan are active on social media, and use this modern technological platform to advertise to their target market, and key demographic, of young women and men who are interested in fashion at a valued price. They have collaborated with British design Julian McDonald on a swimwear range, and footwear range, that have both been successful and continue to be successful during the winter and summer seasons. They have also enlisted Abbey Clancy to produce party wear themed ranges for both summer and winter. It has been successful, but as of March 2016, Matalan are moving towards using Abbey Clancy as an ambassador for the brand as opposed to designing her own ranges. This way Matalan can appeal to the target market, but not isolate other demographics that regularly shop in their store, like the over 30’s. Matalan frequently liaise with charities from within the North West and further afield, with in store charity raising projects for the NSPCC and Alder Hey; they have included ‘Name the Bunny’ competitions during the Easter period to help raise money for Alder Hey and the NSPCC, as well as using the Alder Hey elephant mascot to help raise money for Alder Hey whilst also entertaining the children who come into the store with their families. ‘Made For Modern Families’ is the new tag line for Matalan, and this has helped the brand achieve optimal brand awareness. For example, they have been voted one of the top retailers by Mumsnet, an online community for mothers across the UK. This achievement helped promote the brand to the modern family and has brought in new customers and wide acclaim within the retail industry. Matalan promote their brand on the plastic bags, with the name of the store on the front of the plastic bag. The plastic bag charge came into affect in October 2015, and Matalan charge 5p for their bags. The
money goes to charities across the UK, according to the Government policy. Not only can the plastic bag charge help charities within the UK it helps the sustainability of the environment by reducing the number of plastic bags that are produced, sold, and held within each store. In October 2014 the first Alder Hey charity garment collaboration began, with the introducing of the Alder Hey Alphabet scarf, promoted by Pixie Lott. Matalan chose Pixie Lott because she was on prime time television every week on Strictly Come Dancing, and they also had her record ‘Caravan of Love’ for the Christmas number one single race. This song was played throughout the television adverts, and this may have been the first Christmas advert that Matalan had released. It was a great success, and Matalan’s social media team was able to promote the charity scarves online with the help of famous celebrities from around the world like Britney Spears, Justin Bieber, and Kylie Minogue. This helped promote the Alder Hey cause, and was a success. The Alphabet scarves are still sold today in some stores, with Liverpool Williamson Square continuing to sell their stock, and promote the charity. In October 2015 Matalan once again introduced another charity garment, with the ‘Bobble vs Beanie’ hats. Using celebrities on social media to promote the bobble hats and beanie hats was also successful, and the advert that ran throughout Christmas featured Abbey Clancy as the brand ambassador. Today, the stores still sells the hats, and has recently announced that they raised £620,000 (Liverpool Echo, February 2016) for Alder Hey during the Christmas period with the bobble hats and beanie hats. This has helped in the building of the new hospital in West Derby, Liverpool. Matalan is close to the community, and as well as supporting the community of their suppliers across the globe, they also make it an aim to help the Merseyside community. Sporting Pro is the athletic brand that is sold online in select stores across the UK, they have a programme that awards young people for their excellence in sports. They offer funding and help to the winner, and the local community. References Davies, H. (2015). Alder Hey Children's Hospital given £650,000 from Matalan 'scarfie' sales. [online] liverpoolecho. Available at: http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/news/liverpool-news/alder-hey-childrens-hospital-given-9377512 [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. Matalan.co.uk. (2016). Mumsnet Family Friendly Gold Award Winner 2014 - Matalan. [online] Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/life-and-style/mumsnet?page=life-and-style [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. Sportingpromise.co.uk. (2016). Matalan Young Person of the Year Award — Sporting Promise. [online] Available at: http://sportingpromise.co.uk/news/matalan-young-person-of-the-year-award/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. Sportingpromise.co.uk. (2016). Matalan Young Person of the Year Award — Sporting Promise. [online] Available at: http://sportingpromise.co.uk/news/matalan-young-person-of-the-year-award/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016]. STYLE, C. and BEAUTY, H. (2014). Britney, SJP and Kylie wrap up to support children's charity. [online] HOLA. Available at: http://fashion.hellomagazine.com/fashion-news/201410282506/matalan-alphabet-scarves-britney-kylie-sarah-jessica-parker/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016].
Task 1: History Of The Brand: Store Layout Liverpool Williamson Square
Lift
Customer Flow ENTRANCE/EXIT
Tills
Boys
Menswear
New Arrivals/ ‘We Love’ ENTRANCE/ EXIT
Girls
Blouses/Dresses
Jersey
Footwear/ Accessories
Denim/ Knitwear
Formal/ Workwear
Jersey
Holiday/Jersey Fitting Room
S T O C K R O O M
Essentials
S T A F F R O O M
Task 2: Customer Profile
Melissa is a young mother aged 31, with a young family. She lives with her partner in a terraced house in Liverpool, it is their first home, and they are currently spending the majority of their budget ‘doing it up’. Melissa shops at Morrison's, and drives a Peugeot 106 for the school run, but takes the bus to the city centre and to go to work to save on costs. Her favourite places to shop for herself is Primark and Topshop; she loves reading fashion magazines like
Family
LOOK and ELLE magazine and takes inspiration from the catwalk when she puts an outfit together for a date with her partner, or a special occasion with the whole family. They have a family dog called bruiser, who is an Alsatian. He is two years old. They live close to a park and take regular walks with him as a family. She loves to cook a fresh meal twice a week; a Sunday roast on a Sunday, and a Economical
mid-week meal cooked from scratch. The rest of the week she buys in frozen vegetables and chips, pizza, and chicken, for the whole family to enjoy. Her favourite music is anything that is in the charts, she loves Justin Bieber and Adele. She is currently on maternity leave, but works full time in a call centre as a permanent staff member. Her yearly salary is ÂŁ18,000 a year, but while she is on
Fashionable
maternity leave her budget has lowered significantly.
Task 2: Matalan Mood Board
Men
Home
High Street Abbey Clancey Dress Up Kids
Julian McDonald
Task 2: Women’s Mood Board Analysis
The techniques that I have used for the womenswear mood board include Photoshop and WGSN. Using Photoshop helps the aesthetic of the mood board, and helps the mood board look more professionally. I have used few images to convey the overall theme of the mood board because it is more specific, and easier to comprehend the history of the brand and will help me develop the future ranges. The colour charts I have chosen are primary colours that are most likely to be used for the Spring/Summer seasons at Matalan, including the three ranges that I will be developing for womenswear at Matalan. As a buyer it is important to use modern techniques to present ideas, and sophisticated programmes to highlight important decisions during the research of the brand, and the development of new ranges. For example, I have chosen two CAD’s that I believe through research of the brand are staples in every women’s range; denim jeans, and blouses. Best selling designs from previous seasons must be known by the buyer so that they can use on-trend patterns, colours, and materials to convey the new trends to their customer but with familiar shapes. It is important during presentations for the buying team, merchandising team, and design team, to understand the path that should be undertaken for the development of future ranges.
Task 2: Matalan Trend Mood Board
On Trend Materials Key Trend Forecasting
Prints & Patterns
Embellishment Familiar Shapes
Trend Specific Key Colours
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17 Gingham prints were seen on the catwalk for Spring/Summer 2016, and they could make a re-appearance on the spring/summer 2017 catwalks. In the Victoria Beckham runway show, the models were all wearing check print dresses and shirts. The shapes were flattering for both younger and older women. The print is daring, and bold. It seems that there is an evolution within the VB brand, with a more relaxed style dress for spring/summer and more extrovert attitude with the colours and patterns. These evoke the style that Matalan is known for, as they have used similar prints in their spring/summer ranges in seasons past. Vitorino Compos used a similar check print on flowing hanky skirts, and wide trousers. Both of these are relaxed and casual, with a fitted waist to make it more appropriate for an every day look, and a look for work. The style is similar to that of VB, but is lighter in colour. The hem line is longer, with more movement in the design which adds to the relaxed spring/summer style of 2016, and this could carry on into 2017. Moving away from dresses, Galliano showed casual tops, with longer sleeves. The design of the top could be interpreted successfully by Matalan as it could be part of the second range that I intend to introduce which is geared towards a more casual basic range that an outfit can be built from. The print being light, and not too bold, would add to the ideology of the range. Overall the print swatches are strong, and could be used for blouses, skirts, and dresses. The colour pallet is neutral and cooler in tone. The colour could work well within the basics range. As the buyer for Matalan it could prove successful to use classic shapes that have worked well in the past, such as a blouson blouse, and elasticated waist trousers with a neutral colour, and the bolder print on the skirt and dress. The theme of this trend comes under the Pause trend forecast by WGSN, as it is detailed with prints, but mellow in the colour pallet.
References Vogue UK. (2016). Victoria Beckham: Surfing to Success. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/suzymenkes/2015/09/victoria-beckham-spring-summer-2016-collection-review [Accessed 10 Mar. 2016].
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17 Stripes were popular with Gig Couture in Sao Paulo, Carlucci in Paris, Animale in Sao Paulo, Marras Mila in Sao Paulo, Lenny Niemeyer in Sao Paulo, and Y/Project in Paris. They were shown with long length dresses, with colour blocking in a wide range of colours that were mostly bright and stark. The shapes are body con, and loose billowing shapes. The two contrasting images are different for casual daytime looks and evening wear. Casual looks that were shown by the designers were relaxed, cool, and comfortable. The evening looks were body con with longer hem lengths. The fabric choices were jersey, as this is a more comfortable for the spring/summer weather, but there was also cotton fabrics for the billowing shapes as they are more free—flowing, not heavy for the wearer, and cool in the summer months. There is an influence of seventies with the colour clashing, but also a sophisticated Parisian summer holiday in St. Tropez. This harks back to the long standing nautical theme that is popular in fashion during the spring/summer season. The Sao Paulo catwalks were relaxed and more in-tune with the summer season, whereas the Paris catwalk was more about evening wear that can be worn on holiday or in the city during summer months. There is a glamourous extrovert colour wheel that has been used, and this helps me as the buyer understand the key trend for the season; clashing colours, comfortable casual wear, but sophisticated body con evening wear.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17 Floral’s during spring/summer seasons are a given in some catwalks, and in most high street retailers. However, the difference with this season is the use of ruffles to extenuate the feminine shape and add more playfulness to the spring/summer season. Ferragamo used seventies stripes, with bright colour clashing. The patterns used are jazzy floral patterns and eclectic patterns. Chanel showed a new way to use floral patterns as border prints in-between ruffles, this is a modern approach and can add a fanciful style to an ordinary look. The pussy bow blouse was seen at Lanvin, but in a pure white, colour blocked with black trousers, The neck tie and ruffle was strong and powerful due to the stark colour pallet. The styling throughout the collections that I looked at; Ellery, Cavalli, Ferragamo, Galliano, Gucci, Chanel and Ungaro was feminine but powerful; powerful shapes like strong high neck shirts, and A-line skirts. Besides the dress at Cavalli which was a party dress, the other dresses were more casual and relaxed with a 90’s theme to them. Grunge in length, and styling, but the pattern was modern. The colour palett throughout the collections that I researched showed earth tones, but with primary colours to add depth to the floral pattern’s that had been used in various ways.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
Embellishment is a key part of the spring/summer seasons. Fish scale sequins, mirrored plastic and embroided shirts and skirts, added an Amazonian styling to the catwalks with bright colours that looked similar to the Brazilian Favelas. This mix of styling was seen at Balmain, Marni, Versace, Lanvin, and various other collections that I researched. The styling is seventies glamour, but also seventies folk with embroided shirts that looked similar to the hippy culture, a vivid contrast with the Studio 54 bat wing dresses and oversized blazers. The theme is bright colours, cinched waists, and texture. The shapes are form fitting, with patterns that are continued throughout the looks, with less emphasis on colour blocking than in previous catwalk collections. The fabric is tough and synthetic, and very structured against the body. Embellishment has been used as an added accessory, a warrior like armour for the woman.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
Jewellery trends from the spring/summer 2016 catwalks can influence the trend for the 2017 spring/summer seasons. Drop earrings were seen at McQueen, Armani, Balmain, amongst others. Drop earrings are predominately made of metal and are distinct in their heaviness compared to other drop earrings that have been seen in previous seasons, like hoop earrings and dainty earrings. It adds wealth to a light outfit like a cotton dress for example, and elevates a look without excessive embellishment on the outfit itself. Necklaces are all about chokers in the spring/summer 2016 catwalks, but this has been a regular trend for the previous few spring/summer seasons as the 90’s trend is still popular. It adds a gothic style to a look, and depending on the materials can add a tribal accent to an outfit which reflects to neutral cool tones that were seen on the catwalks that I have previously talked about. There is a distinct artistic influence in the choker necklace. Extra large bangles, a collation of multiple textures and colours adds to the folk aesthetic. It is playful and fun with oversized gem stones, metal work, but plastic was predominately seen at Armani and Gucci. Stacking bangles has been popular since the late 70’s and from the 80’s onwards, and continues to be popular today as is seen on the catwalks.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
Footwear on the catwalks showed two looks; one casual, and one evening look. The luxury pool slider was seen at Dolce and Gabanna, Chloe, Lacost, and Fendi etc. It’s part of the athletic trend that we have seen with casual clothing, and more relaxed fit trousers and shirts etc. The style is chunky soles adding height but the material is tough and resistant to weather, with numerous designs and colours adding to the folk theme that has been present in different catwalks. The colour pallet is bright, and opposes the neutral tones that have been seen in the clothing. It seems the footwear, along with the accessories, are strong while the garments are subtle. The evening shoes are strappy, minimal, but with stark colour and embellishments like tassels. The slight straps for heels exentuates the foot and adds a more feminine light touch to the outfit, allowing the brash loud colours to be used elsewhere on the flatforms shoes at Louis Vuitton are chunky, and durable, juxtaposing the feminine shapes of the clothing. The influences with the pool sliders are with the athleisure trend that has been prevalent during trend forecasting on WGSN over the last year and in the future, which is very 90’s and the strappy peep-toe shoes are also similar to that of the 1990’s, but with a modern edge with colour and style of heel; i.e, stacked, thin, flatform.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
Similar to the stripes and check trend, there was a clear indication that geometric patterns, specifically with a 1970’s and early 1980’s theme, were coming back to the forefront of the spring/summer season. Not only is this trend bright, colourful, and contemporary, but it brings to life the shapes that the designers have chosen. Kenzo, for example, had a top that had short kimono sleeves and a boxy torso shape, that adds to the folk trend, but with the geometric pattern makes it high fashion, and feels like clothes that can be worn on holiday to Morocco or tucked into high waist palazzo trousers. There is a versatility when geometric patterns are used, as they can be paired with block colours, or other patterns to create an extroverted clash of colour with alternative styling. Gucci did this theme well, by keeping in with the seventies trend, and using complimentary loud colours with patterns that did not look gaudy. Patterns are versatile for the consumer, as they can bring to life an outfit, and add a high fashion flair with the key trend at the forefront. The fabrics that can be seen on the catwalk, and paired up with the geometric patter, are tough cotton shapes that are not billowing like the dresses on the catwalk. This adds a strong powerful look, and continues to evoke the theme of womanly power on the catwalks.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
One of the future trends for Spring 2017 is ‘Encounter Culture’ on WGSN (WGSN, 2016). They describe this as exotic, eclectic and multifunctional clothing; i.e, wearing casual clothing with evening wear to create a more relaxed spring/summer vibe. This can be seen in the previous spring/summer collections for 2016. There are relaxed shirts tucked into more form fitting a-line skirts; the fabric is loose, compared to the more structured skirt. The pattern is loud, and is the main focus of each garment; the shapes that are used to compliment the colours and patterns are modern and strong, similar to the other trends that have been on the catwalk that I have also talked about. At the Gucci show, there was a dress that had a palm leaf design on the bodice, and an A-line skirt in an animal print that was stark against the feminine dĂŠcolletage that they showed on the model. It takes direct influence from nature, but it has a modern influence in the fabric choice and the mid A-line skirt pairing. Anna Sui in New York showcased a more Hawaiian styling of her outfits, with bright colours paired with more subdued prints. This lightness adds to the spring/summer vibe that has been consistent through all the catwalk trends; femininity and comfort, creating a powerful outfit that is contemporary for the modern woman. The influence is an island woman, living a luxurious lifestyle, a proud and strong woman. References Wgsn.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59275/page/1 [Accessed 16 Mar. 2016].
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
The folk trend is typical of spring/summer seasons, however this is more feminine and uses materials such as leather and suede to showcase a more high fashion approach to country fashion. Designers like Barbara Boi used relaxed shapes and high quality fabric to showcase the folk trend with hints of Native American culture. Delicate lace, and frayed edges, are contrasting styles that come together for this folk trend of the spring 2016 season, and it could become a bigger trend for the 2017 season. It highlights the good weather in the summer, and the increase in awareness in climate change causing more sustainable fabrics being used, and an influence in the shape and styling of the clothing. However, there is also an urban approach to this trend, that can be seen at Elisabetta Franchi, with a simple cotton white dress and brown leather belt. However, what makes this more modern is the frayed edges. The colour pallet is neutral, but with colours like terracotta clay, deep purple, and cream. This would be a great trend to experiment with sustainable fabric, and using environmentally savvy production methods, keeping the material raw.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17
The active trend, categorised by WGSN as ‘Athleisure’ is one of the hot trends for 2017. It not only is playful and sporty, but it fits with the busy climate that we live in currently; juggling work, fitness, and leisure. The designers at the big fashion weeks showcased looks influenced by the active lifestyle; with Chanel showing a graphic print sweater with a flippy skirt of the same print. Nicole Miller, a staunch at New York fashion week for evening wear, showcased an a-symmetrical top that had a loud graphic print covering the whole garment, it was sleeveless and could be worn as evening wear and part of a casual day time look.
The elasticated waist trousers were a staple in some of these shows that took the theme of active wear to a higher level. The fabric is more comfortable, and breathable, making it suitable for the busy woman. This trend seems to be stronger than ever, and could carry on to spring/summer 2017 if the WGSN forecasting is correct. The loud colours will be brash, and will clash, but the feminine shapes will prevent the outfit looking absurd, and could actually appear more contemporary. References Wgsn.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59472/page/8 [Accessed 16 Mar. 2016].
Task 3: Trend Forecasting S/S 16/17 Analysis To conclude this trend forecasting research, I have found that there is a foreground of light colours, and a background of deeper alternatives to those colours. The overall theme through all the trends is relaxed fit, cool colours, and loud prints. The check trend is the subtlest of all the trends, as it is the most feminine and reflects a more European styling. This type of trend could work well for a minimalist range, and for a high end high street store, however the check print could be used as a key pattern for the spring/summer 2017 season with a brighter colour or a more graphic overtone than the subtle faint grid print that was seen at Carlucci. Stripes were seen throughout different catwalks by designers like Carlucci and Gig Couture. Both of these used contrasting colours to introduce the colour blocking trend to the spring/summer 2016 season, but this may also be seen in the 2017 spring/summer season as it could be a part of the nautical trend which could be back again for the next spring/summer 2017 season, but with more eclectic colours, in various neon versions. The shapes are more relaxed, with lighter fabric choices such as jersey cotton and pure cotton. It could be used in various ways, such as maxi skirts, shirts, and blouses. Geometric patterns are utilised some of the times in the spring/summer seasons, and have only got stronger coming into the spring/summer 2016 season. It is popular on the high street, and can be seen in Matalan currently, and it is popular with the catwalk designers. It is one of the easiest ways to add a touch of glamour and key trend styling to an outfit that would otherwise look the same design as in the past. Shapes look stronger with a stronger print, including tops and trousers. There is an option to clash the patterns like at Gucci, or to create strong silhouettes with blocking the pattern with a strong colour on top or on the bottom. WGSN has forecast that in spring/summer 2017 we may see more tropical and exotic shapes, prints, and colours on the catwalk and in the high street. Examples of these trends can be seen on the spring/summer 2016 catwalk, with Anna Sui showcasing a Hawaiian tropical theme that showed clash of prints and a wide variety of colour. Romantic floral patterns are a constant on the catwalks every spring/summer season, but how they evolve that to fit the future trends and the customer is always intriguing. For the spring/summer 2016 season, the catwalk showed feminine patterns on grunge maxi dresses, but ruffles were also a surprise; they appears on everything as embellishment for dresses, they were subtle. This was interesting to see, as ruffles are a strong design choice, but to use them as embellishment was a clever way to improve a seasonal constant of floral patterns. Embellishment was seen on numerous items of clothing; skirts, blouses, dresses, and they all add to the modern folk theme that use embroidery techniques to highlight a more natural influence from authentic methods of production. That was a theme throughout some of the trends that I researched, as fashion is moving slightly towards sustainable culture. This can be seen in the ‘folk’ trend. The folk trend showcases peasant tops, frayed raw edges of dresses and tops, and an overall push towards showcasing a more authentic and natural design. This can be seen at Elisabetta Franchi, where she designed a white cotton dress with a frayed hem. It is simplistic, but the detailing is what makes it a little more special. The folk trend showcases the Native American culture, with emphasis on one piece of material for the whole garment, or using sustainable materials for the garment. Active wear is becoming more popular with WGSN announcing in 2015 that leading up to 2017 there could be an increase in awareness about active wear, and a more appropriate way of coping with the modern world; relaxed fit, bright colours, graphic prints. This can also be seen in the footwear, with ‘pool sliders’ that could become the new hit footwear in womenswear for spring/summer 2017; but instead bringing it up to a more luxurious style with embellishments and high quality materials. This is also seen with the trend forecasting for jewellery, with metal necklaces, and long earrings that are heavy. Bangles are piled high, and are made of plastic, and metal. There is an emphasis on the seventies theme still, carrying over from the past seasons. References Fashionunited.uk. (2015). Key Footwear on the Catwalk Trends for Spring/Summer 2017. [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/key-footwear-on-the-catwalk-trends-for-spring-summer-2017/2015080317221 [Accessed 11 Mar. 2016]. WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics. (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w/Fashion_Forecast/24662 [Accessed 11 Mar. 2016]. Wgsn.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/?lang=en#/59270/page/15 [Accessed 11 Mar. 2016].
Task 3: Trend Forecasting for Matalan
A-Line skirts, suitable for work and for going out. Stretch cotton material. Polyester lining.
Blouse with key trend shape, kimono sleeve, polyester or cotton fabric. Key print used.
Shirt dress. Cotton or polyester material. Print and colour used.
Task 3: Trend Forecasting for Matalan Analysis
I work as a sales assistant in the Matalan Williamson Square store, and have attended store team briefings before every big season where the store manager relays information from head office in regards to what items are bestsellers, how to upsell clothing by adding accessories to an outfit that a customer has picked out from a department. The store briefing also outlies if the customer profile has changed, and the direction each department is going in, in regards to target market demographic etc. I produced a small chart to show how Matalan develop their ranges and how they utilise trend forecasting that suits their company and their customer. For example, the Buying team at Matalan seem to rely on key shapes, colour, and print, as their main sources of inspiration from the catwalk when producing a range. The Matalan customer is not aware of trends, which is what we as a group learnt when visiting the head office and speaking to the head of recruitment, Melissa Hughes, and one of the two Buyers. This was interesting to find out, as when I am in store I see a lot of on-trend items now and again, and I believe this is due to Matalan bringing in an OTB (open to buy) option across their departments. This helps the Buying team to immediately bring in a trend that is popular and that they did not foresee when conducting their original trend forecasting. This explains why some products are introduced into the range throughout the season, due to the popularity of trends due to celebrity or social media influence, as well as the different style and trends that appear within different cities, countries, and demographics of people during each season. I used all of this information to pick out key shapes, colours, and patterns/prints, that I believe could appeal to the core Matalan customer, whilst choosing specific key season shapes that an on-trend customer may buy from the company as it is of a better value than other competitors that are more trend focused, such as River Island.
Task 4 Part 1: Interview Techniques, Peer Assessment What are the qualities of a good leader? What makes a good leader? It involves taking into account other people’s abilities, technical knowledge, and personalities when delegating tasks. In the job where I work there are staff who are general sales assistants like myself that have strong leadership qualities, and gravitate to the front of the pack and make sure that jobs are completed by people who have the capabilities, whilst also encouraging staff who have less experience to develop new skills through shadowing more experienced staff members, or taking part in further training. A good leader develops un-experienced staff, and lets experienced staff shine even if the shine is brighter than their own, for the greater good of the company.
How well did your college experience prepare you for this job? In college I have acquired a lot of technical skills in word, excel, PowerPoint, Photoshop, and Photoshop illustrator. Throughout my year long course I have been tested on the knowledge I have learnt regarding the critical path, lead times, sustainability, ethical issues, single and focused sourcing, and business strategy; customer profile, target market, etc. All of these topics have helped round me into an experienced student that can take on any job in buying and merchandising. I have grown in confidence in my mathematical ability whilst completing financial spreadsheets. I have learnt how to communicate successfully with my peers, and brainstorming ideas within a team setting whilst also completing work individually.
What has been your biggest professional disappointment? My biggest professional disappointment has been inside of the job where I work now, and how I was exceeding at a specific task more so than my colleagues were and was made to do this task on a daily basis, so the manager could reach her KPI’s for the store within the region. I felt that my abilities were abused by my manager for her own achievements, and not for the company. If I had been in that situation and had to reach targets with the help of my staff I would make
sure that the task was shared amongst a team, since it is unreasonable to require one person to be good at something where other colleagues fail. Teach everyone to be great, and then everyone can reach the target set by the regional manager.
Do you prefer to work in a small, medium or large company? I don’t believe that I have a preference. I believe that my skills can be transferred to a company of any size, and I could help that company achieve their short, mid, and long term business goals. It is important to not discriminate a company based on their size, as every large company in the world started as a small company at the beginning and grew through experience, overcoming hurdles, and employing a great hierarchy of staff from the shop floor to the head office. In
every business there is a need to be motivated and focused, and achieve targets. I believe I can do that with the experience I have through my college course, and through working in retail for two years.
How did you prepare for this work? I have prepared for this job by analysing the job description and what would be required of me, and that is why I have applied for this role as I believe I have the capabilities and the skills to work with this company and in the head office environment. I know about the brands that you stock, such as Julien McDonald and Wrangler, and what the target market for this company is and who the customer is for each department. I have read up on the history of the brand and know that it was started in 1985 by John Hargreaves, and has multiple stores in the Middle East as well as an expansion in the high street with the Liverpool Williamson Square store and the new Oxford Street store in London.
Task 4 Part 1: Interview Techniques, Peer Assessment
A team experience you found disappointing? I believe team work is integral within a company, as it not only helps the company grow and business to boom in individual stores, but it also inspires individual team members to work equally hard on independent tasks set by supervisors. I have worked in a store where there are a few individuals who do not work well within a team, and I have witnessed and felt the detrimental affects of individuals like this and it harms the company and it causes staff moral to wane. It is important that to prevent this that more team building tasks are used, including using strong members of the team to help not so strong members who do not like to work in a team. This can include talking to them, being friendly and welcoming when they first start their job. It is important that even for staff who are weekend part-timers, that they understand they have a role within the company.
Do you prefer to work independently or on a team? I can work in a team and independently, and I have proved this whilst I have worked for Matalan in my current role as administration assistant and sales assistant. As an admin assistant I have to work with the other admin assistants to make sure that we all do our job at an equally high level and that we help each other if one person is struggling, I have helped a few members of staff with extra training to help them reach the same levels as me and other staff members. I can also work alone, and working alone helps build confidence in decision making and in overall attitude to the job role.
What techniques and tools do you use to keep yourself organised? I use numerous techniques to keep myself organised. I have a phone that I can write notes on if I am missing a paper or pen, and whenever I do use a paper or pen I makes sure to write my notes on my laptop so that I do not lose them or forget about them. If I write down the tasks I have to do for each module in college, and I break them down into simpler tasks, I find it easy to complete them and I find that I complete them more effectively. I prioritise the most important tasks, and use timemanagement, when I am at work and have to stay organised. I never leave things to the last minute, because that will only induce more stress, and there is more room for mistakes.
Tell me about a difficult experience you had in the work place? During my first year in retail I had to endure the peak Christmas period alone on a kidswear department. I was left alone to do tasks, with little guidance or help from my manager or from other staff members. There were times were I felt so overwhelmed that I made silly mistakes, and sometimes ended up in tears at the end of the day. However, I overcame it through perseverance and asking other people for help when I needed it most. It is important to note that people can’t read minds, and nobody can interpret your feelings when they speak to you in conversation. It is important to speak out when you are struggling, which is what I did. I learnt that I can only do so much, and sometimes it is best to ask for help and learn from others and how they prioritise tasks as they have more experience. Ever since then I have felt more confident in my abilities and understand how to manage my time during the busy period, and also I have actively helped new staff members who have been stuck in the same predicament.
How do you feel about taking no for an answer? Taking no for an answer, in a situation like a job interview for instance, is hard to swallow. However, it is also important to understand why they said no, and what I could do better if that situation were to arise again. Every time a wall is placed in front of me, I haven’t succumbed to anger or sadness, I have asked why? I have looked at what skills I have and asked myself what could I do to improve? Sometimes I may not be right for the job, and that is okay, as long I can learn from the feedback that I get, it can only help me improve and get a yes from the next interview.
When given an important assignment, how do you approach it? I approach all my assignments methodically, and go through each one with a tick list so that I do not miss anything, and I am specific in what is written in my action plan so I cover all the criteria. The final major project that I undertook in my last unit at college required independent action plans to be adhered to by each student, I found this hard at first as I am used to following a guide set by the tutor. However, I felt that writing an action plan helped me understand that I had more knowledge than I realised and could do everything by myself without needing the guidance of a tutor. I take it step by step and do not let myself become overwhelmed.
Task 4 Part 1: Interview Techniques, Peer Assessment
What was the most stressful situation you have faced? The most stressful situation I have faced is in work when I was training to be an administration assistant. Not only was I responsible for the counting of the takings for the Matalan store, but I had to learn how to use complex computer systems, how to speak to head office in a formal manner, speaking to the bank to make a change order, counting all the money in the safe and have a cool head if anything went wrong. I also had to learn to distance myself from the friends I had made in work in order to complete reports with the help of CCTV at the tills, and being confident in writing what I had seen or not seen, without being subjective. It is a stressful position, and not all of the managers can do the job I do, and that gives me more confidence in my abilities. I have grown as a person since becoming an administration assistant, and have strengthened my time-keeping abilities, mathematical abilities, and problem solving abilities.
What do you think you can bring to this position? I am a creative minded person, which helps me when problem solving as I can see a different perspective to others. I also have a warm friendly manner that is great when negotiating sales with customers, or delegating tasks to other members of staff. I am confident in working with a team and working alone. I understand the technical aspects of the role, and what is required of the job that I have applied for. I have learnt a lot of different skills in college including the use of Photoshop, excel, and the ability to produce financial spreadsheets. I have also learnt about the importance of the critical path and the importance of sticking to lead times.
How do you evaluate your ability to handle conflict? It is important to be pragmatic when faced with conflict within the work place. It is important not to let emotions cloud judgement, and I believe I am a cool-headed person due to my time spent on the shop floor and dealing with difficult customers, colleagues and stressful situations. I believe that in any conflict there is always a need to breather, take a moment to gather my thoughts, and ask for guidance from a superior who may have had more experience in handling something similar in the past.
What quality of yours or personal traits matters the most in your career? I believe that I have a warm, fun, and understanding personality. I am confident but not arrogant, and understand the importance of sharing ideas and being open to someone else’s ideas if they are better than my own. In a workplace situation, it is not about who is better and who is not, it is about what is best for the team and for the future of the company. Sometimes that means that I am wrong, or I am inexperienced, so I can learn from my peers to be a better person, and a better employee. I am a humble, and I believe that is important in any situation.
You have not done this sort of job before. How will you succeed? I have studied buying and merchandising in an intense one year UAL level 4 course, equivalent to the first year of a University degree, which I have also. I have a strong work ethic that I have shown in my job as a retail assistant and administration assistant as well as a student on the buying and range planning course. I have read the requirements for this role, and I am confident that I have learnt a lot in this course that I can bring to this job and not feel overwhelmed. I will succeed because I have all the skills needed through working hard in this course, learning about critical path, lead times, ethical situations, sustainability, and global expansion with business strategies.
How did you handle meeting a tight deadline? I had an action plan with specific tasks that I had to complete on specific days, so I did not fall behind, and had completed everything that I needed to in the time given to me. I am organised, and methodical, in how I approach a new task, especially a task that may seem daunting at first. However, with thorough planning and confident execution of each task I have completed this course at the best of my ability and I have succeeded my own expectations at how hard I can work and how much I can learn in a short amount of time.
Task 4 Part 1: The Questions I was asked, and the ideal answers.
Who was your favourite manager and why? I think a good manager has the ability to bring out the best in their workforce, and in my job I feel that the managers do this by giving the staff flexibility and room to grow as individuals and members of a large company. It is important that staff understand when they are doing something right, and are praised for it with incentives like employee of the month, which is what I have received in the past, and this has motivated me to work harder and achieve greater things. A good manager does not discriminate, and is helpful in delegating jobs to people who have the experience whilst also encouraging those who do not have the experience to learn and add more skills to their repertoire. Do you work well under pressure? I believe that I work well under pressure as I am methodical in my timekeeping abilities. It is easy to lose focus during the day if it is a busy day such as during the peak retail period, and the store is low on staff. In order to not lose my head, I make a list in my head, similar to an action plan that I use in college during tight deadlines, and I manage my time effectively by not being overwhelmed with stressors throughout the day. It is important for me to check off each task in my head, and not think about the overall list I have to complete during a shift.
Task 4 Part 1: The Questions I was asked: Analysis It is important that if asked about favourite managers, that I include past experiences about positive affects of good managers, and negative affects of bad managers. A interviewer would want to know what qualities you believe are important in a leadership role, and by using a positive and negative example. It is important to relate it back to the retail industry, and not say your favourite manager was the best because of their personality and how friendly they were etc. It is important that I talk about the professional aspects of being a good manager, and how I would be a good manager if I was in that situation.
The question about working under pressure is important in showcasing the abilities that I have learned in this course, and also what I have learned in the workplace. Coping with stress is important in a role within a head office environment, as it is a stressful situation to follow the critical path and make the lead times and not delay the critical path. It is easy to crumble under pressure, but by mentioning the skills I have learnt to cope with pressure such as creating an action plan, or a list, and understanding the importance of time-keeping and not looking at the list of tasks that I have to do within a limited amount of time, instead breaking them down into what is the priority and little tasks that can be completed without overwhelming me. It is important that the interviewer can see that I am capable of being thrown into the deep end if necessary.
What was highlighted to me during the peer assessment is that I need to project my voice. It is hard to gauge what volume level is appropriate when speaking to a group in a meeting, if I have not been in a meeting like that before. This is why completing these interview techniques has helped me understand what I need to do to improve my chances of success in the career I want to go into. It is important to be heard, and to make other people listen instead of becoming bored if they cannot hear me.
Task 4 Part 2: Group Work, 10 interview questions for the role of a buyer.
Tilly’s Questions How would you like your career to progress? I think anyone would want their career to progress without any bumps in the road, and quickly. However, I have patience, and I have grit, and I believe that even if it takes me longer to progress within the buying industry I will have had enough time to learn any extensive amount of skills to keep me in this business for a longer time than someone who was a quick rise through the ranks and had learnt little and experienced little. I would want to stay with a company for a long time, and I would want to remain loyal to a company. Are you willing to travel? If I have to travel for this job, I will travel. I have no anxiety about moving abroad, or moving to another city, if I have to, to succeed in this industry.
What hobbies do you pursue in your spare time? I am currently learning Muay Thai, which is Thai boxing. It is a sport that requires a lot of discipline, and listening skills to learn moves that take years to develop. I love to learn, and I love to push myself even if it means I have to rely on my mental strength as opposed to my physical strength. Can you think of an example where you had to communicate under difficult circumstances? In retail it is known that some customers could be difficult, depending on their personalities, and their emotions. I have had to deal with a few bad customers over the time I have spent in retail. Luckily it has not been a lot. However, when I have encountered a difficult customer, I have always felt that you solve more problems with honey than vinegar. Smiling, and appeasing a customer to some retail staff may seem weak, but I believe it is a strength. Not only do I have to overcome my immediate reaction to the situation, but I have to be objective, and think about the problem in a logical way and reason with the customer. Do you have experience of doing financial spreadsheets? Yes. In my college course I have learnt to create a financial spreadsheet for different ranges. I have learnt the equations, and have become confident in completing a financial spreadsheet alone if necessary. I have also had experience with dealing with financial queries in work when I am working in the cash admin office. I have to complete change orders, talk to banks, and complete complex forms on a daily basis. I have confidence in my mathematical abilities, and ability to learn new operating systems.
Task 4 Part 2: Group Work, 10 interview questions for the role of a buyer.
Abi’s Questions What relevant experience do you have in retail that will help you in this job? I have worked in retail for two years and have progressed into two roles, including sales assistant and an administration assistant where I work with large amount of cash and have to communicate with different departments within head office, and in the store itself. It is a hard job to do, and not many people in my place of work have the knowledge or ability to do it with a level head. I believe that my experiences in the retail industry has prepared me for stressful situations, and how to overcome them. Explain what a SWOT analysis is, and how is it useful? A SWOT analysis is a way of analysing the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats to a business as a whole, or a department within a business. For example, I could use a SWOT analysis to find out the strengths of the ladies wear department in Matalan, and its weaknesses, and from that find out what opportunities externally and internally could be found to oppose any threats competitors might be to the business and to the ladies wear department in regards to pricing, trend forecasting, and target market. How do you feel about ethical sourcing? Ethical sourcing is an important topic, and has become a major priority within the retail industry since the Rana Plaza collapse and world wide attention was brought to the ethic codes within the retail industry, and individual retailers. I feel that there is more to be done with ethical sourcing, but that auditing has increased within retail stores of suppliers around the world, and there is more training given to the buying and merchandising departments to counteract the use of illegal labour, and the lack of health and safety guidelines found in garment factories. Talk about an experience where you had a problem in work? How did you overcome it? I work in the cash admin office of Matalan Williamson Square, and so I have dealt with a lot of high risk problems that involve money, and communicating to head office about issues that have arisen. One time, one till was down by £50. I had no idea where it had gone, and it was my sole responsibility to communicate calmly to my managers about the situation. It turned out that one of the cashiers had pressed cash instead of card, and therefore the till had been expecting money that it did not receive. If any other person had been dealt with that situation, they would not have been calm, and may have lost their head and therefore not seen the simplest explanation. I overcame that and I grew in confidence in my ability, and came to understand that although it is a scary situation to come across, that there is no reason to panic, and that panicking would only aggravate the situation. What are your career aspirations? My career aspiration is to work in a head office for a retailer, and contribute to the growth and survival of a retailer whether they are small, medium, or large. I believe I have to motivation, knowledge, and determination to learn new skills in a wide range of departments within the head office environment to achieve my goal of being a successful buyer.
Task 4 Part 3: 3 potential progression opportunities within buying and merchandising; critically analyse how you can progress to the appropriate levels.
Applying to do a Fashion Buying BA (Hons) degree at a university will help a student who wants to go into the fashion industry but does not have the relevant experience or knowledge to do so at this time. It is a great opportunity to grow as a person, with confidence building techniques used which include group work, presentations, and opportunities for work experience at large retail companies that a non-fashion student could not partake in. There are opportunities to progress down different pathways within this degree, including marketing, and industrial placement years are encouraged to give the student relevant work experience within the retail industry before they begin to apply for
jobs after graduation. There is also a design pathway that is included within this course that allows the student to experience the different side of fashion retail industry, with how fabric technologists develop materials for the fashion buyers to choose from, and also how the merchandiser decides on the budget and how many products are delivered to the store. This is an industry respected pathway into the retail buying industry, as it gives the student a fully rounded syllabus to allow them to understand the importance of time-keeping, technical knowledge, industry experience, and applying themselves to achieve a highly rated University degree that is respected by many professionals.
References Dmu.ac.uk. (2016). Fashion Buying BA (Hons) - De Montfort University - Leicester, UK. [online] Available at: http://www.dmu.ac.uk/study/courses/undergraduate-courses/fashion-buying-ba-degree/fashion-buying-ba.aspx [Accessed 16 Mar. 2016].
Task 4 Part 3: 3 potential progression opportunities within buying and merchandising; critically analyse how you can progress to the appropriate levels. After receiving a degree in any subject, a graduate can apply for a graduate job in retail buying with any company that has that pathway available. It is sometimes the larger companies that provide this pathway, and in this role they will guide the graduates and train them within an average of 3 years before they become fully fledged buyers within that company. John Lewis, for instance, provide this for any graduate with a 2:2 degree and above. They explain on their website that they conduct an intensive two year ‘journey’, that will ‘nurture your creativity and stretch your capabilities’. Throughout the graduate scheme the graduate will benefit from a mentor, that will guide them similar to that of a University tutor, and will assess the graduate throughout their time on the scheme. The graduate will start off in the home department of John Lewis, and will learn the key skills in the ‘principles of buying and trading’. They conduct placements, and have ‘away days’ to develop the graduate and their peers. At the end of the scheme the graduate can call themselves an Assistant Buyer. This is good for a graduate as they can slot themselves into their higher end of a companies hierarchy in a shorter amount of time. Not only will they learn the ups and downs of the company, but they can use this scheme to help them apply for another job, in another role, and it shows they have the capabilities to achieve a great deal, and learn a lot, in a short amount of time. Numerous schemes offer a wide range of incentives to bring the best graduates onto their training programmes, including a substantial wage, sometimes a company car, and maybe a season ticket
loan so they can save on travel costs. After the graduate has completed the scheme, they can continue in the company, or go elsewhere, having gained an extensive array of skills in a short amount of time, and having not paid for the experience either.
References JLP Careers. (2016). John Lewis Buying - JLP Careers. [online] Available at: http://jlpjobs.com/graduates/graduate-schemes/john-lewis-buying/ [Accessed 16 Mar. 2016].
Task 4 Part 3: 3 potential progression opportunities within buying and merchandising; critically analyse how you can progress to the appropriate levels.
There is also a pathway for those who have not studied fashion in University, or college, and have instead worked within the retail industry for a long time and have gained some relevant experience and want to move up into a head office role within the buying department. The entry level job for this person would be a buying admin assistant, because within this role the person would learn in depth about the importance of the critical path, lead times, and accountancy within the merchandising assistant role that is included within this job. There is little requirements needed to apply for this role, and the experience that is required can be gained within a store role; this includes problem solving, understanding KPI’s and delivery logistics. Sometimes it is useful if the person works for the company that they are applying for the BAA role, as they will have a clearer understanding of the job and who the target market is and what the brand identity is. This entry level role pays little more than a store manager, but the chance to gain crucial industry experience is why this role is the most important role to apply for if education is not for you, or if you struggle in education due to commitments with family and any other issues that require a job immediately. There is little time between promotions once you are in this role, as it is based on performance rather than qualifications. Even though this may be the easiest entry for a person who cannot afford higher education, they will have to work for a longer amount of time to achieve their goal of being a buyer, however they will gain twice as much in experience than a graduate.
References Drapersjobs.com. (2016). Buyers Admin Assistant Jobs: Apply for Buyers Assistant Jobs today! |. [online] Available at: http://www.drapersjobs.com/landingpage/2564973/buyers-admin-assistant/ [Accessed 16 Mar. 2016].
Task 4 Part 3: 3 potential progression opportunities within buying and merchandising; Plan time and actions to access a range of progression opportunities.
Three Years/Four Year Sandwich Course with Industry Placement
Route One
Route Two
Route Three
College Student
• • • •
GCSE’s A LEVEL student Level 1-3 College Course Fashion related Foundation Degree.
• • •
Graduate Scheme
Full Time Sales Assistant/Managerial Role
• • •
• • • • • • • • • •
Three Years
On the job industry training Guidance from industry leaders Understanding the working critical path and lead times Master classes Team building exercises Assessment and feedback by senior management
On the job training Brand knowledge Understanding logistics of deliveries to store Leadership qualities Time management skills Understanding of all aspects of the in-store role Ability to work within a team Quick thinking Can pick up information quickly Aware of current trends and bestsellers
Skills learnt: Time Keeping Technical Language Work Experience Analysing Skills
Two to Three Years
• • • • • • • • •
Independent Working Team Working Presentation Skills Industry Knowledge Photoshop Skills Design Skills Marketing Skills Proficient Time Management Networking
Skills learnt: Industry experience in a working buying department Networking skills Presentation Skills Negotiating Skills Problem Solving Skills Merchandising Skills
Five to Ten Years
Fashion Buying BA (Hons)
Assistant Buyer/ Merchandiser
Buying Admin Assistant
Task 4 Part 3: 3 potential progression opportunities within buying and merchandising; Plan time and actions to access a range of progression opportunities.
Actions Needed
Time Frame
Transferrable Skills
Route One:
Route One:
Route One:
Achieve GCSE in Maths, English, Science. Complete A-Levels to earn enough UCAS points to apply for a university degree level course. Complete a personal statement and a portfolio of work to show at interviews.
Two to three years, depending on whether the student takes re-sits at A-Level, then three to four years on a Fashion related degree, which may include an industrial placement for one year.
Time keeping, organisational skills, group work, presentation skills, independent learning, analytical skills, problem solving, industry work experience, networking skills. Knowledge of technical lingo, and understanding critical path.
Route Two:
Route Two:
Route Two:
Achieve a 2:1 or above in university, then apply for graduate schemes in retail in January. Review C/V and update it, include relevant skills learnt on the degree course, and work experience. Practice interview questions.
2-3 years of on the job training, guidance from industry leaders and specialists. Networking with different suppliers, understanding the market. Completing relevant assessment points within the scheme.
Intense knowledge about the brand, working on all levels of the company hierarchy, understanding the target customer, understand company operating systems, individual techniques and skills relevant to the job.
Route Three:
Route Three:
Route Three:
Work with the company and have in-depth knowledge of the process of deliveries and visual merchandising within store and what is expected of an individual store and workforce. Apply internally for a better job within the company, including managerial roles, before applying for head office.
5-10 years of working full time before getting a job as a full time sales assistant, then a manager, and then applying for a head office role. Relevant experience within the company would be a requirement, and a passion about the retail business.
Knowledge about the company and key dates in the brand’s calendar, the best sellers from previous seasons, and what the customer wants from the brand. Able to communicate effectively within the team, and can learn at a quick pace and has confidence in their ability.
Task 5: Business Plan Targets the 17-22 demographic. There is a need for the Matalan brand to open themselves up to a more fashion conscious and aware demographic that is a niche in the market.
The alternative ‘Made for Modern Families’. Friends as family, and they are all daughters and sisters of the Matalan family. Young, fresh, and new.
International role models with a positive reputation, have worked with other brands, and have successful franchises in the beauty industry with their own perfume and eyelash collection.
Marketing opportunities include a song for the advert, press releases in magazines and online. Launch event at Oxford Street store.
4 different personalities, 4 different styles and composition of outfits.
Little Mix S/S ‘17 range for Matalan There is a chance for international brand awareness
Task 5: Business Plan
Short Term Goals
Mid Term Goals
Long Term Goals
Bring in a more fashion aware demographic (17-22) but not exclude everyone else. Expand the ‘Made For Modern Families’ tag line to include friendship groups. Increase the target market.
Open more high street stores, like the ones in Williamson Square, Oxford Street, and Cardiff. Make the UK public more aware of Matalan the brand. Compete with NEXT and River Island.
Expand into the international market, especially North American territories. Expand the E-Commerce website globally.
Task 5: Business Plan: New Customer Profile
Customer Profile New Women’s Range
Stylish
Pop Culture Savvy
Fabulous Auntie
Trend Aware
City Living
Louise is 18 years old, has a niece who she adores, and lives in a house outside of the city centre with her mum Margaret and cat Maisy. Louise loves to watch television on a Saturday night, her favourite television shows are Strictly Come Dancing and X Factor. She always has an Indian takeaway, and loves to lay like broccoli on the couch with her cat snuggled between her feet. Her favourite stores are River Island for high fashion, and H&M for good value. She loves to read ELLE, Vogue, and Vanity Fair magazine. Louise loves celebrity culture, and catching up with the latest news on her Instagram feed and Twitter feed. She has a full time job as a classroom assistant, her yearly salary is ÂŁ15,500 a year. She goes to the gym, and keeps herself healthy whenever she can with healthy salad, and fish fingers for her child Sarah. She loves hip-hop and R&B music. She wears the latest trends, but also loves layering outfits with basic clothing essentials.
Task 5: Business Plan: New Customer Profile Analysis
Currently Matalan has the Candy Couture range for the 9-16 year old girls, but once those young women grow up they shop at Topshop or River Island and may not decide to shop the ladies wear range because of the limited styles available to them that can compete with the likes of Topshop and River Island, who may focus on key trend pieces and have more unique designs on offer. Therefore, this is a niche that Matalan can build upon to keep modern families shopping at Matalan and not look elsewhere. The current customer profile for Matalan is varied, between the ages of 18-80. So many different age groups shop at Matalan, and there are ranges like ‘Falmer’ for the middle aged woman, and ‘We Love’ that features on trend pieces that women in their late twenties and above will shop from. Bringing in a youthful transitional range for Matalan ladies wear will appeal to the young customers who shop at Matalan with their families currently, and will prevent the loss of a key demographic that other retailers like Marks and Spencer have failed to keep hold of in this modern age. Matalan can offer great value, and a wider variety of products to add to the customer basket. Therefore this range will have depth, variety, and interchangeable looks for any woman between the age of 17 and 22. Using Little Mix will appeal to this target market as they appeal to the youthful young women in the UK and internationally as well, as they are a well known group in international market through the expertly used social media channels and highly rated vocal and dance abilities. Little Mix could help bring in a more youthful customer, and hopefully turn them into a loyal customer. With their help, we could have a marketing campaign with a promotional single, launch party at the second high street Matalan store in Oxford Street, and improve the public’s awareness of the Matalan brand. ‘Made For Modern Families’ is the tag line, and this can be used to expand on the term ‘family’, as many young people today consider their friends as close to them as their families. It is a modern evolution for the Matalan brand, that could work well for it’s survival in the future.
Task 5: Business Plan: Mission Statement
Current Mission Statement: “Provide outstanding value for modern families” “…From the day Matalan started back in 1985, to today 30 years on, our mission has always stayed the same; to provide outstanding value for modern families. We take our time to listen, understand and evolve to fit changing modern family needs, always with an emphasis on providing the highest quality clothing and homeware for the lowest price. 12 million UK families each year trust us
with their precious family budgets and to provide the range, style, quality and value that enable them to run a modern, happy, family home. It's no surprise then that we were recently awarded a prestigious Gold Award at the Mumsnet Family Friendly awards for a second year running. Our free Matalan reward card gives our members access to the best family offers all year round in any of our 217 stores or at matalan.co.uk. Our location, late night openings, free convenient parking, 'everything under one roof' set up and free click and collect service are just some of the ways that we're 'made for modern families‘.” (Matalan, About Us 2016)
Matalan, Cardiff
Tropic Of Cancer ‘About Us’ Matalan is there to support the modern family, even when family means something different to everyone. Little Mix represent the new modern family, where friends lean on one another and support each other through thick and thin. They want to buy clothes from honest retailers, with honest prices, and an eye for the latest trends from the catwalks around the world. From size 8-20, there are a number of options for young women who want to be fashionable, but don’t want to break into their savings. With the Matalan card, more customers can be reached and made aware of the new range, and upcoming future ranges at their local stores. No longer will young women struggle to stay on trend with their favourite celebrities.
Task 5: Business Plan: Global Impact and Global Strategy
Little Mix achieved chart history for a UK girl band by having the highest charting single by a UK girl band since the Spice Girls. Their song ‘Wings’ reached number 79 in 2013, and their latest single ‘Black Magic’ was released in the US in September 2015 and reached number 67. (Billboard, 2016) There is a growing fan base on social media platforms for Little Mix that reaches far and wide on Twitter, and Instagram. They release constant updates about their lives, and their constant stream of information to their fan base helps it grow bigger and faster. Matalan could utilise this as Matalan are also prevalent on social media, with each store having their own Instagram account, with offers and news about upcoming range releases and sales on Matalan’s main Facebook account. Including a celebrity name for a range has helped make Abbey Clancey’s range a success, but it is now moving towards Abbey Clancey modelling the new Matalan range from in-house designers, as opposed to her designing her own range. Not only will this prevent customers being isolated, but it will welcome more people into the Matalan family as there will be a greater depth within the ranges, and more customer focused ranges etc. Not only can this help Matalan expand their stores further than the Middle East, but it can help them grow online with Little Mix’s reaching as far as North America, Canada, and Australia. This can help Matalan increase revenue, and increase exports to countries and maybe expand their head offices to another country to prevent delays in the critical path with the help of an international business partnership. References Billboard.com. (2016). Little Mix - Chart history | Billboard. [online] Available at: http://www.billboard.com/artist/307628/little-mix/chart [Accessed 18 Mar. 2016]. Reporter, O. (2013). Little Mix break America music records despite fans confusion over their accents. [online] OK! Magazine. Available at: http://www.ok.co.uk/celebrity-news/Little-Mix-break-America-music-records-despite-fans-confusion-over-theiraccents [Accessed 18 Mar. 2016].
Task 5: Business Summary
The goal of this range is to sell the range to the target market of 17-22 year olds, that are currently not marketed by Matalan past the kidswear ‘Candy Couture’ range which is marketed at 9-16 year olds. The range will be called ‘Tropic of Cancer’ and will be modelled and promoted by Little Mix members Perrie, Jesy, Jade, and Leigh-Anne. I have chosen this girl group as they are internationally known, and respected, for their vocal abilities and dance abilities. They are seen by the public as wholesome role models that are also trendy and have an appeal on social media websites such as Instagram, and Twitter. During my market research I found that Matalan neglect the 17-22 age group in their current ranges. When young women turn 17, they no longer want to shop in the kidswear section to get good value and on trend products that they could find elsewhere at competitor retailers such as Primark and New Look. Therefore, this range will retain this target market, and key demographic, that can help the Matalan business continue its longevity in the retail industry and be known for having good value products that the whole family can shop from, no matter their age. I have spoken to customers and staff within the store and have concluded that this range would target a niche in the market. There will be bright colours, on trend shapes, and exciting styling that will include using the Little Mix members as models as they all have individual ways of styling the range, and have different body shapes etc. that can appeal to a wide range of young women between the ages of 17-22, they are also a successful British female group, which could inspire young women and help them see a reflection of themselves in the range. There will be a new tagline included in this range, ‘The New Modern Family’, as along with the range there will be a company promotion of including friendships groups into the title of ‘Modern Families’. This will make the whole range more inclusive, along with the other ranges that the brand produces, as in this day and age ‘modern families’ is a title that can be malleable and includes more than the immediate nuclear family. The price range will be between £8 and £25. This has been decided as the price points because it stays close to the value brand of Matalan that has been in its mission statement since it started in 1985. I believe it could be detrimental to the brand’s identity if it were to be overpriced and exclude the loyal customers that it already has. It has a number of expansion projects ongoing, with new stores opening in The Middle East, and this could also help Matalan expand into the North American market and compete with value retailers in America such as Kmart, Target, and Forever 21. That is the long term goal of this range. The short term goal is to open more high street stores within the UK and in Europe with the help of this range. The fabric quality will be similar to the current fabrics that are used by the Matalan brand, so it will be more cost effective in the production of the range and new suppliers will not have to be sourced as the fabric compositions will be the same throughout the whole ladieswear department. This will stop the critical path being disrupted, and prevent new lead times being created as they could all be produced in the same factories, in the same countries, and be delivered and allocated to the stores around the same time.
Task 5: Business Plan; What are you going to sell, and who to?
The products that the range will sell will be tropical themed, which is what I found when conducted the trend forecasting for Spring/Sumer 2017 on WGSN, using their forecasting mood board about ‘Encounter Culture’. The style will be predominately young, but with pieces that are familiar to the Matalan customer that they can buy from also. However, the whole range will be targeted at the 17-22 market, and the majority of the range will include shapes that are youthful. There will be bright colours, and two or three patterns that can used throughout the range and reduce costs. There will be two shoe designs included, one will be more sports, and the other more formal to fit with some pieces that are more fashion forward and less casual. One of the inspirations that I found important when sourcing the concept for the range is the importance of festivals to the 17-22 age group. In the range there will be pieces that could be worn to festivals by groups of
friends, and can be mixed and matched with other pieces. The target customer is a young woman, who has a part time job, and is currently studying to get into University or is already in University. They are fun, and happy-go-lucky, who want to look like their favourite models off the catwalk; Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, and also their favourite popstars; Little Mix, Selena Gomez, and Pia Mia. As the buyer for this customer it is important to note that not every girl may want to wear a dress or buy evening wear, they want to look trendy from the moment they wake up and go out shopping with the friends, or if they go on day trips with their family and friends. The range will be promoted in the Oxford Street store, as this is the most recognisable fashion district in the world and will attract a lot of different people from all over the London area, as well as tourists. It can be a great way to introduce the brand, with a launch party fit for that target market that will include Little Mix performing and ‘Bag For Life’ goodie bags that will include Little Mix promotional material such
as an album, sweets, a signed Little Mix poster, and the new Matalan mailer that will have the new range inside with Little Mix modelling the clothes. At the till there will be leaflets handed out talking about the new range. The range will be launched in all stores a week after the Oxford Street launch party. It will be launched online the night that it launches at the Oxford Street store, as this will help in the companies ability to fulfil the demand of the launch straight away and prevent customers being disappointed and prevent loss of interest in the new range. All sizes will be included, with the smallest being size 8 and the biggest being a size 20. This is so all customers are marketed at, and no customer is excluded.
Bag For Life Goodie Bag
Task 5: Business Plan; Marketing Strategy
Advertising during prime time television when the springs/summer range is released. The television shows that likely have high ratings of the 16+ demographic include BGT, Saturday Night Takeaway and Gogglebox.
A promotional leaflet will be handed out at all till points a week before the range is on sale to make customers aware of the new range, and the launch date. There will be a buzz created by all staff members in all stores.
LOOK magazine has been used before by Matalan to promote the new Spring/Summer range, so this could be used again and it fits the target market of 17-22 year olds that this range will be
marketed towards.
Using social media for sponsored posts by Instagram users that are popular amongst the 17-22 target market, and having sponsored posts appear on Facebook news feeds.
Task 5: Business Plan: Elevator Pitch
‘Tropic Of Cancer’ is a range devised to include a niche in the market that Matalan have ignored for a long time. There is a gap between Candy Couture and the ladies wear ranges available in the Matalan stores, and online. Once a young girl reaches the age of 17, she may have a part-time job, be pursuing high marks in her A-Levels, and thinking about University. As of today, there is an
FOLK
increased awareness in the 17-22 target market about the fashion industry, celebrity trends, and catwalk trends. The clothing on offer to 17-22 year old young women in Matalan is currently sub-
par, and there is room for a transitional range between Candy Couture and the current ranges on offer at Matalan. During field research I have deduced that some young women do not think that
UTILITY
Matalan provides enough on trend pieces, or awareness of quick trends, as much as their favourite retailers like River Island and New Look. This range will include a key demographic within the UK, and in international markets, that have been utilised by Matalan’s competitors for a few years, and some have used celebrity endorsements to launch themselves into the 17-22 target market. I have chosen Little Mix for their wholesome broad appeal to families and young women around the world, and they are currently on a successful tour around the UK. They have
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toured around the world, and have ‘broken’ America with their singles. They appeal to the 17-22
market, and can help Matalan change the opinion of young women everywhere when they think about where to buy their clothes from for a good value price, enough to buy two outfits that are on trend for the next festival, girls holiday, or a hot summer weekend in the UK.
FUTURE
Task 4: Mood Board
Task 4: Concept Board
The concept for this range will be relatable to the current Matalan customer as it will include wearable shapes with patterns and colours that have been used in previous spring/summer ranges for the brand, but this time it will be focused towards the 17-22 customer who is fashion conscious.
In previous spring/summer seasons there has been an influence of folk trends used by the Matalan buying team, and it seemed to have been quite popular with the Matalan customer. Therefore, this concept is branching out from those best selling trends used in the past, with more emphasis on key trend pieces, colours, and prints, that would attract a younger audience to the brand. Little Mix are an international British brand that have been successful around the world with different
FOLK
franchises in the beauty industry and currently are promoting the LA Pro athletic brand range for Sports Direct. They each have an individual style, and personality, that can be helpful when building the range and advertising the range to a wide range of customers that may know the Little Mix group, and those
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that may know them individually.
They key trend that I have chosen is a tropical folk trend, called ‘Tropic of Cancer’. There will be a lot of prints, colour, that are exciting and stand out from the other ranges that Matalan have with ‘Falmer’ and ‘We Love’. The price range will be from £6 to £25 and will have footwear included in the range. The price range will reflect the current price points Matalan offers, so that there is more chances of it being a
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successful range, and keeping costs low. Little Mix could produce a single for the new range so it can be used in promotion online, magazines, and television. They could launch the new range in the Matalan Oxford Street store, and draw attention to the
FUTURE
high street side of the Matalan brand. Matalan has the slogan ‘Made For Modern Families’ and Little Mix are a modern family, with young people recognising their friendships groups as families now, it’s a more modern update to the tag line that has been successful thus far.
Task 6: Range Building ‘Tropic Of Cancer’
Button Dress Denim: 90% Lyocell, 10% Polyester
£12 RRP
Button Dress Orange: 100% Polyester
Acid Wash Denim Skirt: 95% Lyocell 5% Elastane
COO: India Cost Price: £4.80
£18 RRP
£8 RRP
Dark Wash Denim Skirt: 95% Lyocell 5% Elastane
Jersey Top (Yellow, Dusty Pink, Cream): 100% Jersey Cotton
COO: India Cost Price: £3.20
COO: Turkey Cost Price: £2.13
£16 RRP
Crop 3D Flower Top (Cream/Dusty Pink): 100% Polyester COO: India Cost Price: £2.13
£12 RRP
Crop Fringe Contrast Blouse (Dusty Pink/Orange): 100% Viscose COO: India Cost Price: £3.20
£18 RRP £18 RRP
£8 RRP High Neck Shift Dress: 100% Viscose COO: India Cost Price: £4.26
Zip Shift Dress (Blue/Green): 99% Polyester, 1% Other COO: India Cost Price: £4.80
Longline Shirt Dress (Check/Geo Print): 100% Viscose COO: India Cost Price: £4.80
Task 6: Range Building ‘Tropic Of Cancer’ Peasant Skirt (Orange/Dusty Pink): 90% Viscose, 10% Elastane
£15 RRP
Chambray Trousers (Blue/Orange): 90% Chambray, 10% Elastane
£12 RRP
£25 RRP Dungarees (Cream): 68% Cotton 27% Polyester 3% Viscose 2% Elastane COO: India Cost Price: £6.66
COO: Turkey Cost Price: £3.73
£14 RRP Halter Neck (Blue/Orange/Yellow): 100% Polyester
Lounge Trousers (white/black): 90% Viscose, 10% Elastane COO: Turkey Cost Price: £4.26
£16 RRP
Denim (Grey/Blue): 68% Cotton 27% Polyester 3% Viscose 2% Elastane. COO: Turkey Cost Price: £4.00
£25 RRP
£8 RRP
COO: Turkey Cost Price: £2.13
£8 RRP
Waterproof Mac(Blue): 98% Polyester 2% Other
Crop Top (Cream/Orange/Yel low): 100% Polyester COO: Turkey Cost Price: £2.13
Flatform: Upper Sole Other Lining Sock Other Leather. Heel Height Approx 3 1/8 Inch. COO: China Cost Price: £4.80
£25 RRP Dungarees: 68% Cotton 27% Polyester 3% Viscose 2% Elastane
COO: India Cost Price: £6.66
COO: Turkey Cost Price: £6.66
£18 RRP
£18 RRP
£18 RRP
Heel (Orange/Beige): Upper Sole Other Lining Sock Other Leather. Heel Height Approx 2 1/8 Inch. COO: China Cost Price: £4.80
Fold Over Crochet Bag Matalan S/S ’16 Shell: 100% Polypropylene. Lining: 100% Polyester Handle.
£6 RRP
Task 6: Candy Couture Summary (Girls 9-16 years)
Tropic Of Cancer
3 Years old to 13 Years old
16 Years Old
The Candy Couture range is marketed at 9-16 year old girls who are fashion aware and want to be on trend like their big sister who may shop at River Island or Topshop. They also look at what their friends are wearing and want to buy similar clothes, and Matalan provides this for their customer with Candy Couture at a value price. Once they reach 16, they may not want to shop in the kidswear section, and may look at the ladieswear department and may not find anything they like there, as it is no marketed towards the 17-22 age range. Therefore, a transitional range would be beneficial to retain the 17-22 year old demographic, with on trend fashion for a good value at the heart of the range. The 13 year old girl will no longer shop from the younger girls section and buy from the Candy Couture range, so there is a reinforced reason to produce a range for 16 year olds who want to shop similar on trend fashions but in the ladieswear department. Another added bonus could be inclusion of the VAT tax on ladieswear, that is omitted from kidswear. This adds more opportunities for profit from the younger age market.
Task 7: Financial Spreadsheet ‘Tropic Of Cancer’ Range
Task 7: Financial Spreadsheet ‘Tropic Of Cancer’ Range
Task 7: Financial Spreadsheet ‘Tropic Of Cancer’ Range
Task 7: Financial Spreadsheet Analysis
The total cost price for this range will be £105,042.92. This cost price is helped by sourcing the production from similar areas around the world where Matalan currently have contracts with suppliers. I have used India, Turkey, and China as the countries of origin because they have previously produced clothes for Matalan, and could produce the clothes within 6 weeks which is an average for a fast fashion brand like Matalan. The lowest cost price for an item is
£2.13 for the crop tops, and jersey tops. Their RRP is £8, the cheapest price point in the whole range. They will be produced using the composition of polyester for the crop tops, and jersey cotton for the long sleeved basic top. The highest cost price will be £6.66 for the denim dungarees, and the waterproof mac. They will be produced in India, as the design specifications will have to be adhered to by a supplier with capabilities to complete the samples on time to prevent delays in the critical path and lead time, and be cheaper to produce a good quality product in bulk. The cost price for those items will be £25, giving a healthy profit margin of 73.36% for the most expensive products in the range. A healthy profit margin is important, and can help the range succeed due to the low costs and higher price points. If this range is successful it could produce a gross profit of £290,215.08 after I take away the overall cost price of
£105,042.92 from the total RRP price of £395,258. This is over the 16 week selling period and does not take into account any promotional offers, marketing costs, sales, stock loss or reduction in prices do to damage within each store. The projection profit of this range can help in the decision making for producing another transitional ladieswear range for the Autumn/Winter 2017 season. The financial spreadsheet projection shows the profit projection for the in-store sales within the UK and The Middle East. If this range is used for a global expansion into the North American market the profits could increase, and if further expansion is approved into Asia and Australasia then it could further increase the profits. The cost price of £105,042.92 projection could help the production of another range in the same vein of this range that I as the buyer would produce for Matalan, as the gross profit of £290,215.08 shows this could be a possibility.
Task 8: Commercial Branding, Advertising Ideas
Little Mix performance
Launch party at Oxford Street store for Matalan VIP Black reward card owners.
Black card holders invited and Little Mix fan club members
Matalan have ‘Black Card’ events whenever a new range is launched, and this could be something similar, except it will include black card members and members of the Little Mix online fan club. Not only will be a great event to sign up new customers to Matalan, customers that are directly within the target market of 17-22, it will help during the promotion of further ranges for 17-22 target market and increase brand awareness in this age group. Other stores will hold a ‘black card’ reward card event in their stores also, and will encourage young people to participate and will receive pre-signed Little Mix posters, CD, and sweets in a ‘Bag For Life’ goodie bag. This will encourage fans from all other the country to visit their local Matalan’s and preview the range, and look at other products that Matalan offer in a warm and welcoming environment.
‘Bag For Life’ goodie bag given to customers at the launch party
Task 8: ‘Tropic Of Cancer’ Style Edit Example
£18 The style edit will be part of the Spring/Summer 2017 mailer that is sent out to all customers who are registered with the free reward card. They will have price points, styling ideas, and use visuals to introduce the range to the customer. Little Mix will be used as the models for the range, and it will include them having fun in a studio with bright coloured backgrounds. Separate photographs will be taken that will be used for the promotional banners in store, and for light box frames in store also. The surroundings will include festival and beach backdrops. The idea behind the visuals is to entice the 17-22 target customer into the store, and make the range appealing in a fun and adventurous light with the Little Mix girls laughing, and being active in the photographs.
£8
£14
£8
£18
£25
£25
£8
£12
£18
Task 8: Make-Up and Hair Visual Concept
The visual aesthetic for the advertising will include a well thought out hair and make up styling to make the whole range cohesive. The style of hair will be different for each girl in the group, with Leigh Anne’s hair being braided with ribbon like she has shown on her Instagram page. Jesy’s hair will be thick and curly and shape her face similar to that of Diana Ross in the 1970’s. Jade will have really bright coloured hair with feathers to give a bohemian vibe to her look. Perrie will have a Rapunzel thick blonde plait with daisies and flowers. All of them will have their nails in a stiletto
shape with embellishment on each nail, like jewellery. Their make up will be 90’s, neutral tones on the lips and the face, but with colourful smokey eyes and thick eyelashes. The whole visual look of the Little Mix girls will be striking, and catch the eye of the passer by. It will also be inspiring for the target market to see how each girl ‘styles their look’, and what their hair looks like, and want to copy it on social media. The girls can promote the campaign on their social media by taking selfies and previewing the different outfits that each of them will wear.
Pitch Evaluation Pitching to one another in preparation for the Dragon’s Den Matalan pitch helped everyone understand parts of their presentation that did not work well and they could change and adapt how they presented their pitch accordingly. I felt we all worked together well as a team in order to help one another when it came to finalising our pitches, and producing a presentation at an industry standard level. I took the constructive criticism really well, and felt that I had developed in a short amount of time a concise and clear presentation. The methods that I used will help me when I produce a pitch for a job.
I believe my nerves overcome me on the day, and the hard work that I achieved during the practice pitches was lost. This was an understandable outcome to the pressures of the day, and I was happy that it did not affect the contents of my pitch and how I spoke about my presentation. Weighing the positives and the negative, I had more positives than negatives at the end of the pitch. The buyer, and recruitment person did not ask me any further questions. I presented a professionally printed lookbook to them to look over, and they seemed happy at the end of the presentation. However, personally I believe I
could have handled the pressure a lot better. I will continue to work on my presence, and my nerves. I believed I organised my presentation well, and set out the presentation in a clear way so that they could understand the concept and the method behind the concept in a thorough way. I dressed smart, and did not stumble over my words. I felt I was confident in what I was saying, but my nerves let me down and could have affected how the buyer and recruitment person saw my presentation. I believed as a team we all helped each other develop exponentially well leading up to the pitch, and for some people this was an important step for them to take within the group. I felt I learned a lot leading up to the pitch, but again my nerves took the shine away from the presentation. I communicated well even though I was overcome with nerves. Everybody who took the stage yesterday performed well under difficult circumstances and their pitches were better than previous attempts.
FMP: FINAL PROPOSAL
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
13h April: PESTLE and Analysis on Matalan.
14th April: SWOT analysis on Womenswear department.
15th April: SWOT analysis on
SWOT analysis on Menswear department.
Footwear and Accessories.
Field Research of Matalan, Cath Kidston, Erdem, Paul Smith (primary photographs, interview with VM team, menswear manager,)
20th April: Desk Research: Paul Smith, Cath Kidston,
21tst April:
22nd April: Trade Show report. Trends, themes, analysis
Erdem.
Trend Forecasting: WGSN, Catwalk (x4 designers each)
from Premiere Vision for Menswear, womenswear,
Comp shop of Matalan and 4 competitors for men's,
Womenswear and Womenswear accessories and
footwear/accessories.
women’s, footwear/accessories.
Menswear S/S ‘17
Trend Forecasting
Comp analysis of 4 retailers for
Trade Shows
Footwear/Accessories
mens/womens/children
WGSN
S/S ‘17
Report Evaluation.
Trade Shows Street Style WGSN Pinterest
27th April: Trend forecasting using WGSN/
28th April: Mood and Concept board for three ranges.
29th May: Customer Profile for Matalan
WWD/VOGUE/PINTEREST/PREMIERE VISION. 10
Trend forecasting analysis evaluation for each one
menswear/womenswear/
trends (men's/women’s/footwear/
Mood board for Paul Smith
footwear and accessories.
Accessories)
Mood board for Cath Kidston, Mood board Erdem.
Mood board for Matalan menswear, womenswear,
Comp shop mens/womens/womens accessories
footwear accessories.
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
4th May: Business Summary: Elevator Pitch Short, Mid, Long term plans Directional Shop (designers, value)
5th May: Build ranges 1x Men 1x Women 1x Accessories Range Analysis
6th May: Financial Spreadsheets x3 Financial Analysis WSSI Analysis
11th May: Critical Path Sourcing Production issues Lead times Matalan Brand History Pestle Analysis on Matalan
12th May: Styling Advertising Leaflets Promotional Material/ Launch
13th May: Create Lookbook Print it Create VM Guide Print it
Proposal Outline
REVIEW
My aims for my FMP are to produce three spring/summer 2017 ranges for Matalan. One menswear range collaboration with a designer and a celebrity, one womenswear range with a collaboration with a designer, and a footwear and accessories range collaboration with a designer and a celebrity. During the development of these three ranges I will show my ability in research, both primary and secondary sourcing, as well as being more creative with how I present my work. i.e using visual merchandising, fabric mood boards, lookbook, visual advertising campaign examples using Photoshop, primary photographs, and illustrator. Using Excel confidently to complete financial spreadsheets and a WZZY. Be able to complete a industry standard portfolio of work that is of a level 4 capability, that can be brought to interviews for graduate level jobs. RATIONALE AND CONTEXT The purpose of the project proposal is to outline to the tutor all the things that I would hope to achieve by the 27th of May 2016 when I finally submit this portfolio. This portfolio will showcase high level of communication skills, and interpretation skills as a prospective buyer that can help during the application to buying jobs at different levels. I will be able to conduct independent research and keep to an action plan and successfully complete an in-depth portfolio for the Matalan brand. I will continue to use my writing skills at a high level, but also attempt to improve my creative skills in regards to presentation. I will be able to pitch this idea at the end of May without fear. The menswear collaboration will be with Paul Smith, the womenswear collaboration will be with Cath Kidston, and the footwear and accessories collaboration will be a collaboration with British/Canadian designer Erdem. I will produce a lookbook in a physical professional format, and also design how the front page of the Matalan website will look when the three ranges are launched. The launches will be staggered over the Spring/Summer 2017 period.
DEVELOPMENT AND REALISATION The menswear collaboration range with a designer should continue to bring the target customer of 25-35 that Matalan already targets for their menswear. It should cause intrigue, and interest, within the retail world and help solidify Matalan as a home for affordable fashion for any occasion in menswear as they currently do not do this. I will use primary and secondary research to complete a PESTLE and SWOT analysis about the designer and Matalan, and how the two are a good fit for each other. The womenswear range will be aimed at the older Matalan customer between 45-55 who is scared of trendy clothes, but if packaged correctly they will have confidence
In purchasing items that are familiar but are also fashion forward without isolating the customer as I have spoken to customers of this age in store and found they believe they are being left out even though they are loyal customers. The third range will be a footwear and accessories range aimed at 18-25 year olds, and will have a designer collaboration. The aim of this is to retain a key demographic and make the range even more trend focused than it currently is to bring in a wider audience. I will use more creative methods as well as analytical methods. I will source the products from the same places Matalan already sources their products from currently, and I will conduct in depth research into those places. I will include the ‘open to buy’ method of buying also, to prevent the company from missing out on any trends that pop up after lead times are completed. I will be more pro-active in the visual merchandising side of producing the three ranges, as this is consistent with the Matalan brand after my visit to head office and pitching to the team I discovered they focus more on visual merchandising. I will use different sources for trend forecasting including trade shows, street style, Pinterest, and WGSN for CADS as well as trend forecasting. I will also conduct interviews, surveys, and email conversations with key people from Matalan and the designers involved, to understand what I could use to make the three ranges commercial.
METHODS AND PROCESSES The resources that I intend to use throughout this FMP is using PESTLE’s, SWOTS, and analysing both of these for the Matalan brand and the designer collaborators for the three ranges. I will also continue to use Photoshop to effectively showcase my work at a high industry standard, and also use Illustrator to design original artwork for promotional leaflets and swing tickets. I will continue to develop my use of Excel as I have researched job roles online and they prefer their ideal candidate to be savvy with Excel and mathematics. Therefore, this FMP will focus on financial spreadsheets and analysis to help me become more comfortable with using Excel and to not shy away from challenging myself. I will conduct field research in-store, and speak to managers of the relevant departments and my co-workers, so that I can have a thorough understanding of the brand, and what is needed to help it grow reach key demographics in the three departments that I have chosen. I will use this information, as well as desk research online using WGNS, Pinterest, and blog, to trend forecast the S/S ‘17 season. This will also help me in my development of what CAD’s I can use, and if they are relevant to the Matalan customer that I am targeting. I will use peer assessments to help direct me and guide me to a more successful range and a more coherent FMP that can be submitted with confidence. The feedback of my peers will help me develop further.
EVALUATION AND PROGRESSION I will continue to complete a weekly reflective log to be able to effectively critique my progression and understand different ways I could adapt to any setbacks, and changes to my proposal due to external factors. I will use different methods of primary and secondary research as well as physical creations of mood boards, visits to fabric shops and directional and competitive visits to retailers to be able to successfully complete an in-depth evaluation of my final major project. I will produce an A3 portfolio that I can bring to future interviews for buying opportunities in the retail industry. I will produce a C.V that will be acceptable to send to head offices for various retailers across the country. I will also produce a cover letter to showcase everything that I have learnt in this course to make a me a more viable candidate. I will have tutorials with Amy about my progression with the FMP, so I do not stray from my action plan and my work is of a consistent standard and ready to be submitted. I will also complete an evaluation and critical analysis about my range, and the project in its entirety so that I can reflect on what I have learnt, and how I have further developed my skills that will prepare me for the world of work within a head office environment. I aspire to become a trainee buyer in a graduate scheme so I can continue to learn and develop within a head office environment, or join a head office at entry level as a BAA. My ultimate career goal is to become a senior buyer at a retailer that is global.
History Of The Brand
Matalan is a value retailer with the tagline ‘Made For Modern Families’
They have a click and collect service to the store, and the store can hold onto the item for up to 4 weeks before it is refunded. This makes it flexible for the families.
Matalan has 217 stores, and a website. They have been successful because they have chosen locations in the UK with free parking and late night openings.
History of MATALAN
Matalan became a public limited company in 2007.
Started in 1985 by John Hargreaves. John Hargreaves went into the retail business when he was 16, and opened the first Matalan store in Preston in 1985.
Matalan was one of the first retailer to have a membership card. It cost £1 and only members could shop at Matalan. Now it’s free, and gives millions of customers offers and chances to save with every purchase.
Matalan has 200 stores today, with two high street stores; Liverpool Williamson Square, and Oxford Street.
The website launched in 2008 to industry acclaim.
Over 12 million families shop with Matalan, and has been awarded a Gold Award at the Mumsnet Family Friendly awards for a second year running.
References About Matalan - Matalan. (2016). [online] Matalan.co.uk. Available at: http://www.matalan.co.uk/corporate [Accessed 9 Mar. 2016].
Matalan have an Ethical Sourcing policy that has been in place for twenty years. They have internal audits conducted by professionals, with backgrounds in manufacturing and factory safety.
PESTLE: Political On April 1st 2016 a new wage was introduced for the whole country, where men and women aged 25 and over would receive an extra 50p on top of their minimum wage, and this would be called the living wage. However, with a considerable amount of retailers employing millions of men and women on the minimum wage, ‘…retailers will have to find £3 billion more a year for ‘national living wage’…’ according to the Guardian, March 2016. From personal experience working in retail I have seen first hand the managerial reform that has had to come in to place for Matalan to implement the national living wage for all of its workers aged 25 and over. Management positions have been eliminated, people have lost their jobs, and the whole managerial structure has changed in order to allow thousands of workers aged 25 and over to receive the national living wage. Although they may not admit that the cause of this shift in retail management positions and cutting of hundreds of jobs, it could be one of the reasons. Matalan has recently had to eliminate the Administration Manager role from in-store, and reduce the size of the managerial staff on payroll; for example, there is no longer a Customer Service manager, and there is no longer a night shift manager. Instead of department managers, there are team leaders; they are similar to department managers, but do not receive the same level of pay as the new manager’s will receive under the new structure.
Also, there will only be one floor manager who oversees the whole of the shop floor and department issues. The living wage may benefit the average sales assistant in the retail industry, but it has had a domino affect on the retail industries individual company structure as a whole. This shows the importance of political policies and how they can easily affect the private sector.
References Butler, Sarah. "Retailers Will Have To Find £3Bn More A Year For 'National Living Wage'". the Guardian. N.p., 2016. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Economical During the busiest period of any retail company Matalan was in the middle of a move. They began to move their distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley. It caused stores to take in ‘hub’ deliveries; other stores would send rails of product that they had no room for, or had too much stock of, to other stores that needed it. This required numerous stores to communicate with one another without head office involvement whilst the move took place. This caused the company to lose a lot of money during the ‘golden period’ of retail, i.e Christmas. Due to this occurrence the 2015 fiscal year started off negatively for Matalan, causing investment service to
downgrade its rating of Matalan using the data from a tumultuous financial year for the value retailer. The beginning of the 2016 financial year began in April 2016, and the Moody’s rating does not make Matalan look good in the eye of the public. Moody’s stated that ‘…Moody’s said it expects the competitive environment to remain ‘intense’. And, while noting a relatively strong performance in product categories such as home, footwear and children’s wear, believes Matalan faces significant challenges to recover market share in the larger categories of ladies and men’s wear, and to rebuild momentum in e-commerce…’ (just-style.com, February 2016). Matalan briefs its mangers on a daily basis in regards to what targets they need to reach in each department, and how each store performs against ‘plan’; i.e, how they performed last year and their targets set for that day. Matalan have since branched out their e-commerce into bathroom, and bedroom furniture and appliances. This could change their year on year development at the end of this current financial year in March 2017.
References "Matalan Rating Downgraded On Profit "Concerns"". Just-style.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Social Matalan’s mission statement is bringing outstanding value to the modern family. They kicked off their campaign at the beginning of the Spring/Summer range launch in April 2015. They had intense marketing campaigns across the internet, on television, and in newspapers to directly target their core customer. Matalan focused on their core customer, which brought in young families looking for outstanding value in children’s wear and homeware, however they did not find the balance between bringing in young people who wanted to spend money on on-trend fashions, accessories, and keeping their core customers happy with jersey basics and work wear. Matalan also used the 2015-16 financial year to continue their expansion online, by competing with Ikea in homeware, bathroom, and bedroom furniture and appliances. Matalan continues to develop its brand within the working class, and emerging middle class social structure. They use household names like Abbey Clancey to bring in a key demographic of young impressionable young women to visit the store and buy from different departments. Matalan also continues to use social media to relate the modern family online, with charity campaigns becoming a seasonal staple in the autumn/winter. Matalan uses Instagram and Twitter, and uses celebrity endorsements to promote the charities, as well as raise the wholesome profile of the Matalan profile. This is something that they do exceedingly well, and has made Matalan are true home for modern families.
References "Matalan Targets ‘Modern Families’ With Latest Campaign". The Drum. N.p., 2016. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Technology
Matalan uses technology to gain information about their customer so they can directly target them with vouchers, information about new stock coming into store, important information about sales, and to also reward them with birthday vouchers and a 10% welcome voucher incentive for signing up to the app for free on their mobile phone. The app is a great use of technology to help Matalan understand the ages of their customers
and what they buy. The card acts as an electronic receipt that helps both the customer when returning an item, but also helps head office find out what items are selling and what items are being brought back, and for what reason. The benefit for a value retailer to utilise technology in this way prevents any wastage of money on ranges that will not appeal to the customer and will not sell, also it helps designers re-configure the design specifications of certain items if they are continually being brought back faulty. This is why it is important that all cashier’s are trained in what reason to choose for a refund or exchange as this information is sent to head office and helps every department in fixing an issue with a product and therefore save millions of pounds.
PESTLE: Technology Matalan implemented a new method of training their staff at the Oxford Street store
by giving them a GPS enabled tablet and having them walk Oxford Street and answer questions at certain key points along the street. They also brought them into competitors stores to answer questions regarding layout, and identify successful processes that they implement in their flagship stores that Matalan could do in theirs. (retail-week, April 2015). This is a modern way of developing staff, and engaging them in the processes of the company. This way they can talk about their products confidently, and also be able to layout the store in a way that is similar to their competitors and therefore attract customers and sell them products in a more effective way.
References Baldwin, Caroline. "Matalan Uses Gamification To Train Store Staff At Upcoming Flagship Store". Retail Week. N.p., 2015. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Legal In January 2016 a 32 year old man who worked in the distribution centre fell to his death inside the distribution centre at 2 o’clock in the morning. This cause of death has not been established in the media, but they did mention that he had fallen. Any health and safety accidents that occur within a retailers premises are serious, and can affect the whole company. The distribution centre had to close for police investigations to take place, and it remained closed to comfort the workers who may have known the man who died. This not only causes bad press in the media for Matalan, and tarnishes their reputation as a respected and reputable company, but it also halts production for 24 hours. This can affect lead times, and the critical path. With sound health and safety guidelines, and the correct training, occurrences like this could be rare and could save lives. A health and safety training video was shown to all staff members in April 2016, this has been the first health and safety video that has been shown to a general sales assistant since the induction video. This shows that Matalan is improving their awareness of training their staff to protect themselves in situations such as theft, violence, and dangerous situations they may not be able to pre-empt or are aware of and could change the situation into a positive and not a negative.
References Traynor, Luke. "Worker Dies In Fall At Matalan Distribution Centre". liverpoolecho. N.p., 2016. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Environmental
Matalan have an environmental policy on their website, it states ‘…We regularly review our
policies and procedures to make sure that we maintain an appropriate level of environmental awareness and responsibility. We have a main board director who is overall responsibility for environmental issues so it's always on our agenda…’ Matalan allow people to recycle their used batteries safely in-store, they also recycle hangers in store and do not offer to give hangers away to customers. This prevents the hangers ending up
in landfills, and is a positive step forward as a retail giant is taking responsibility for the disposal of a non-degradable product that they produce in the billions every year. Matalan also saves energy in-store with timed lights that prevent excess energy being spent and wasted when the store is closed. Matalan also conducts checks on all of its electronic products on a yearly basis to prevent them from causing accidents and also to check that they are safe for
the environment. Matalan is also responsible for its suppliers and the equipment they use, and any bi-products that are created through dyeing of materials, production of raw materials, etc. They have a responsibility in excreting chemicals in a safe way that does not affect local communities.
References "Environmental Policy - Matalan". Matalan.co.uk. N.p., 2016. Web. 8 Apr. 2016.
PESTLE: Matalan Analysis I have concluded from this PESTLE research that Matalan have had difficulties when evolving their brand, and that as of 2016 the company is in the middle of a re-branding with the introducing of the Edit within each department, for each season. Political issues that I have discovered through this PESTLE include the introduction of the living wage by the Conservative Government. This not only affected the private sector overall, but in particular it affected retailers. Within the Williamson Square store where I work, we had an Administration Manager, and we have a few employees who are nearing retirement. Subsequently due to the introduction of the living wage in April 2016, the workers on the shop floor have had their hours cut to accommodate the new increase in stress on each stores payroll, and the role of Administration Manager; the person responsible for the store safe, and the paperwork surrounding staff and customers, was eliminated. This affected the management structure, and it had to be re-aligned in accordance with the elimination of a key role within each store. This caused demotions across all departments, with no manager for any department and instead the singular role of ‘floor manager’ was introduced. This was a jutting development, and still confuses staff. Staff turnover has increased since the introduction of the living wage, as more young staff members seek out other employers that provide a living wage for all employees, instead of the minority. Matalan is a value retailer, and therefore I believe from the research I have gathered that this could affect its growth nationally and internationally due to the Government living wage introduction. S&P (Standard and Poors) is a credit rating company, and rate businesses which affect their economical profile around the globe, including affecting the increase or decrease in share price, and overall valuation of a company. They downgraded Matalan’s rating, and gave a glum outlook for their economical growth in the future due to their lack of organisational skills when Matalan moved their head office from Skelmsdale to Knowsley. This move greatly affect the distribution centre,
and prevented allocation from arriving to each store over the golden period of retail; Christmas and January Sales. As a sales assistant at Matalan, this time was tough on our store as our store is smaller, and already suffers from lack of availability in sizes and lines on a weekly basis. We had to have a rush of ‘hub’ deliveries, which involves other stores that are bigger with more stock transferring their stock to us as a favour. This required our store manager to ask stores for help, and negotiate important transfers so our store would not lose out on profits over the busiest period. As a result of that hiccup in the Matalan financial year, this affected the credit rating of the company as it entered the new financial year in April 2016. This outlook could deter brands from affiliating themselves with Matalan, prevent skilled workers working for Matalan in a head office role, and cause stores to suffer due to bad publicity and could subsequently close. This is important to understand, even as a sales assistant, as it could helped the staff push for extra sales on the shop floor. Matalan has a social media presence more so now than they ever have done, starting with their charity fundraising over the Christmas periods of 2014 and 2015. They have focused more on involving bloggers, and social media stars with a following, in order to promote their brand. Not only does this cost less, but it gives them a reach further than a television or billboard ad could give them. This is proving to businesses and to staff that Matalan is trying to push themselves to match the social media stature of big brands such as Topshop, and River Island. This shows a development in their head office, as they monitor changes in consumer behaviour, with customers purchasing items online due to the introduction of the Matalan website, and the Matalan app. The technology that Matalan focus on has been the push of customers downloading the Matalan reward card app, an update from just filling in a form and receiving vouchers monthly, this app alerts customers to more vouchers, discounts, and sales, whilst they are at home or in town, without having to check their paper mail. This is a step up in Matalan recognising the importance of environmental issues, and the reduction of costs through reducing the amount of letters they mail to their customers. It is also a neat way to create young loyal customers, since it is possible that today there could be more young people who have smart phones, and more middle aged people who are also buying smart phones, as people migrate from using a desktop to a mobile site for their daily needs. Apps are a new growth in businesses and keeps their brand in the hand of their customer, even when they don’t want to shop. It is there for them to check when they are bored, or in case they want to see what is new in Matalan. Matalan have also promoted the introduction of technology within their stores, with their flagship Oxford Street high street store using a GPS tracker app to help train their customers about local landmarks, to help customers in store find their way around London as it is a popular destination for tourists from around the world, and it is also used to help the staff to find out what the competitors of Matalan are selling, and introducing new ways to sell products to the Matalan customer through researching their competitors marketing methods. This is a great way to include the staff in the development of the store and the company as a whole. Matalan recycle their hangers and they also now ask for 5p from customers for a bag, not only does this prevent hangers and bags ending up on landfills and effecting the environment. If you visit a store, in the past, you could ask customers if they want to keep the hangers, but now there seems to be a movement towards recycling hangers in a safe way in order to save money on the production of more hangers, and this reduces costs across the company. It has proven to me that a small change on the shop floor can reduce millions of pounds of expense across the company that can help the company grow bigger, and become more modern with investment in new developments and new highly skilled people in head
office and within the supply chain.
Matalan Mood Board
CHILDRENSWEAR
MENSWEAR
ABBEYS PICKS
CHILDRENSWEAR
SOULUXE
HOMEWARE
FAMILY
HOLIDAY SHOP JULIEN MACDONALD
SWOT: Ladieswear STRENGHTHS • Attracts the female shopper shopping for the whole family. (1) • Outstanding Value. • Various lines, broad variety. • Large stores, ability to add more stock. • Provides better quality than competitors.
WEAKNESSES • Womenswear doesn’t attract the 35-55 customer, a key demographic. • Sub-brands like Falmer, R&R, Papaya Weekend, Papaya Collection, etc. are not desirable to the female consumer. • The aesthetic is not focused, confusing to the customer.
OPPORTUNITIES • A new ‘core customer’ customer profile for 2555. • Use the reward card data to find out who the customer is, what they need. • Introduce a new range, a new sub-brand, to entice core customers back into the store as well as continue to build on attracting new customers.
THREATS • Losing customers to Primark with pricing, and TK Maxx with out of town stores that appeal to the whole family with good value. • E-commerce. They must develop their website more, direct customers online first to prevent scarcity availability in-store. • More attractive layouts, ad campaigns, from competitors.
References (1) Retail Week. (2016). Analysis: Where did Matalan go wrong and where does it go from here?. [online] Available at: http://www.retailweek.com/sectors/fashion/analysis-where-did-matalan-go-wrong-and-where-does-it-go-from-here/7004552.article [Accessed 25 May 2016].
SWOT: Ladieswear Analysis Matalan ladies department has strengths that include attracting the female shopper with value for the whole family, the stereotypical Matalan customer is a mother who will go in to store to find clothes for her children, her husband or partner and then herself. There are various sub-brands in Matalan that include Falmer for the customer looking for a more casual and feminine look, Soon is for the sophisticated customer that likes to wear luxurious fabrics at good value, Classic is for the older customer and is similar to the Soon brand but with less emphasis on trend focused fashions, FWN is the occasion wear brand that is sophisticated and elegant, and Papaya is a sub-brand with two minor brands attached to its name; Papaya Weekend, that includes ontrend fashion and sophisticated styles that can be worn for any occasion by any woman, Papaya Collection that is a formal based line with continuous products produced every season, as well as on-trend and sophisticated products. The strengths can be built on with focusing on the core customer more, whilst also adding subtle trends to each season with expert visual merchandising displays in store and in marketing to help the customer be brave in their style choices and to put themselves first. The weaknesses of the ladies department include the fact that it does not attract the younger, more fashionable, customer; the 45-55 year old woman is a woman who has a job, cares about her appearance and about finding the new trends for a greater value than in other high street stores. It is Matalan’s job to not only service the core customer, but to bring in more loyal customers and their families. The sub-brands are not desirable amongst key demographics that are younger than the core customer, there is not a lot of marketing towards the sub-brands and therefore they may become dormant and lose customers and therefore become a drain on the companies profits and profit projections. There are different aesthetics throughout the store that could become more focused, and therefore could help the customer buy more products without confusing them. The weaknesses could be changed with the introduction of a designer, or well known name, to help promote sub-brands and the ladieswear department in general to bring in the 35-55 year old target market, as well as appease the core customer with something fresh and appetising to help them come into the store more often and more often without their families. The opportunities that I as the buyer could find to improve the ladieswear department include introducing a new sub-brand, or building off an old one such as Falmer. This could help refresh the Matalan brand and bring in new and old customers to the store to see what the store has to offer and hopefully continue to build on Matalan’s core customer which is being left behind as the new ‘Edit’ marketing campaign is at the front of the company for the next few seasons. In order to prevent the store from losing out to competitors, it will have to be priced correctly and be competing with other value high street stores such as Primark. The marketing campaign for the new range could help bring in the e-commerce customer as the customer visits the website before visiting the store. The store must reflect the options and style that is on the website, this includes photographs on lightbox fixtures in store, and one mannequins. This can all be helped with the production of a lookbook for the customer and a visual merchandising guide for each store grade.
SWOT: Accessories STRENGHTHS • Appeals to the young 20-30 female customer. • On trend with styles, and colour. • Price points are fair, and can help a customer complete outfits within a budget.
WEAKNESSES • Does not connect with the core customer. • Does not relate to the ladieswear department successfully. • Poor quality for the price of the product.
OPPORTUNITIES • Create a more balanced range that appeals to the typical Accessories/Footwear customer and the core customer of ladieswear. • Introduce a collaboration with a high-end British designer to evoke good quality, and luxury, for good value. • Create more products to be worn as outfits on ladieswear.
THREATS • Pricing competition with New Look, and Primark. • Lose sight of the customer on ladieswear, becomes too successful to change.
SWOT: Accessories Analysis The accessories department on ladieswear is one of the highest profiting departments because of its continually successful ranges that infuse trend focused fashion, as well as bestsellers which design specifications are improved on year on year. The strengths of this department is its ability to draw in the customer from every target
market, including the core customer, and the less frequent customer. The price points are fair, and are appealing to every customer for their value. The strengths of this department can be built on by continuing to be on trend, and understand its customer continually. One of its weaknesses includes the fact that the ladies wear ranges sometimes do not match with what is available in the accessories department. This can cause issues with customers planning outfits to buy, and also for in-store visual merchandisers to put together outfit. The quality of the accessories are less than desirable and customers often return items due to their poor quality. To overcome this there could be a revised price plan that could allow the buyers to increase the quality of their fabric in order to produce a higher quality product. There is an opportunity to introduce a designer brand, or a celebrity, to introduce a higher quality range that will be priced similar to how Soleflex is priced currently, with the use of real leather and suede. This range will not be as trend focused as the rest of the accessories available from the ladies accessories department, however this will help the customer be able to build an outfit together and the visual merchandisers to place outfits together in a favourable way for different customers to be
inspired by in-store. Currently the threats that Matalan ladies accessories faces is the pricing competition on the high street for value accessories that are on trend and desirable for the customer. Competitors like New Look and Primark are continually producing trend driven accessories that are cheap and of a lower quality than what is provided at Matalan currently. Introducing a designer influenced range for the new season, better quality, and at a higher price, can help bring in different customers and also entice core customers to spend a little extra for something a little more special.
SWOT: Menswear STRENGHTHS • Good quality suits, good pricing. • Is desirable to the core customer and to the young customer, they have a good balance. • Easy to shop, focused designs.
WEAKNESSES • Not enough marketing to the core male customer or the young male customer. • Not enough variety, or look building that could increase sales. • Not enough accessories available to the customer.
OPPORTUNITIES • Create a more balanced range that appeals to the typical Accessories/Footwear customer and the core customer of Menswear. • Introduce a collaboration with a high-end British designer to evoke good quality, and luxury, for good value. • Create more products to be worn as outfits on Menswear.
THREATS • Trend focused ranges from competitors like River Island and Burton.
SWOT: Menswear Analysis
Matalan menswear has strengths that include good quality suits available at a competitive pricing, with a full suit that can cost up to ÂŁ70. This makes it accessible to the core Matalan customer that wants good value for their formal wear. Menswear at Matalan is easy to shop, with bestsellers re-appearing every season such as poloshirts, plain t-shirts in a variety of colours, and printed t-shirts that are more fashion focused than the rest of the department. Matalan menswear tends not to
experiment with trend focused ranges, which is a weakness as this can cause the department to lose out on bringing in different customers, who would go to competitors like River Island for their clothing, or Burton. To counteract the loss of profit in the menswear department, it is important to recognise the two different customer profiles that shop this department. One customer profile for the core customer, and what they would buy and the bestsellers from their viewpoint, and the new customer profile for the range that I will bring in as the buyer that will be try and entice young customers to spend their money with Matalan and think differently about the menswear department at Matalan also, with more trend focused colours and styles available to them. I will introduce a British designer collaboration to Menswear to help bring in the key demographic of 25-35, who want to find good quality clothing for a fair price, and with a British designer name attached this could help increase footfall into the store, and online, and also help increase the profits in menswear. The range will be balanced, and will not be too isolated from the rest of the department, so the core customer does not stop shopping the department. This range will help the Matalan menswear department to compete with River Island and Burton in the trend and style aspect of the ranges, but will oust them with the fair pricing.
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: Matalan
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: Outer And Lining 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: 97% Cotton 3% Elastane.
Pricing: £16.00 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: 65% Polyester 35% Viscose.
Pricing: £16.00 Composition: 100% Lyocell.
Pricing: £16.00 Composition: Shell: 100% Viscose. Lining: 100% Cotton. .
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £14.00 Composition: 100% Viscose..
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition:90% Polyester 10% Elastane.
Pricing: £14.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £18.00 Composition:97% Polyester 3% Elastane.
Pricing: £14.00 Composition:100% Viscose.
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: Dorothy Perkins
Pricing: £30.00 Composition: 89% Polyester,11% Elastane. Machine washable.
Pricing: £20.00 Composition:100% Polyester
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 100% Polyester
Pricing: £24.00 Composition:100% Polyester
Pricing: £38.00 Composition:78% Polyester,15% Viscose,7% Elastane.
Pricing: £28 Composition:100% Viscose
Pricing: £25.00 Composition:97% Polyester,3% Elastane
Pricing: £12.00 Composition:100% Polyester
Pricing: £25 Composition: 98% Polyester,2% Elastane
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: 100% Viscose
Pricing: £20 Composition:95% Polyester,5% Elastane
Pricing: £22.00 Composition:76% Polyester,19% Viscose,5% Elastane.
Pricing: £16 Composition:96% Cotton,4% Elastane
Pricing: £26.00 Composition:100% Polyester.
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: New Look
Pricing: £22.99 Composition: 90% Nylon, 10% Elastane.
Pricing: £19.99 Composition:100% Polyester.
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane.
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: 61% Acrylic, 39% Nylon
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane.
Pricing: £7.99 Composition: 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane.
Pricing: £22.99 Composition: 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane.
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: 97% Polyester, 3% Elastane.
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £34.99 Composition:100% Polyester.
Pricing: £19.99 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: 52% Flax, 48% Viscose.
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: H&M
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: Viscose 95%; Elastane 5%
Pricing: £7.99 Composition: Polyester 100%
Pricing: £29.99 Composition: Polyester 100%
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: Viscose 97%; Elastane 3%
Pricing: £29.99 Composition: Polyester 99%; Elastane 1%
Pricing: £7.99 Composition: Viscose 100%
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: Viscose 100%
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Viscose 100%
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: Polyester 100%
Pricing: £29.99 Composition: Silk 100%
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Viscose 50%; Cotton 46%; Elastane 4%
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Cotton 67%; Polyester 31%; Elastane 2%
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Cotton 100%
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: Polyester 100%
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: Miss Selfridge
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 90% Polyester,10% Elastane.
Pricing: £28.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £59.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £28.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £49.00 Composition: 98% Polyester,2% Elastane.
Pricing: £32.00 Composition: 100% Viscose
Pricing: £30.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £39.00 Composition: 97% Polyester,3% Elastane.
Pricing: £28.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £32.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition: 96% Cotton,4% Elastane.
Pricing: £39.00 Composition: 63% Polyester,37% Viscose.
Pricing: £22.00 Composition: 94% Viscose,6% Elastane.
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Competitive Shop: Womenswear: Analysis To start the competitive shop I looked at Matalan’s womenswear range that they currently have for the spring/summer 2016 season. The material that is mostly used throughout the range is viscose and polyester, as this reduces the costs, and allows the price to be of a greater value to the customer. Patterned fabric is used as well as stripes, mixing two trends of nautical and geo-print, to form a cohesive range that is accessible to a wide variety of customers. Out of the fourteen items that I sourced from the Matalan website, the cheapest item was £6.00 and the most expensive was £25. This compounds the manifesto that they have where they aim to provide good value products to their core customer, as well as hints of trends to appeal to the new customer that they want to attract. I would say from conducting this competitive shop of Matalan that their current target market could be between 25 and 35. Their style is simplistic, with key pieces dotted throughout the ranges that are more relatable to the more trend conscious customer. Matalan uses visual merchandising and outfit building throughout their stores, and therefore their clothes must be cohesive, and must allow the customer to build an outfit to fit their own personal style, without just relying on one statement item. Dorothy Perkins also appeals to the same demographic as Matalan, with their style relatively unchanged from season to season, only the colour and patterns they use change according to the trends of the season. Like Matalan, their buyers have found similar inspiration with colour, stripes, and geo-prints, but stick to their bestselling shapes that their core customer is aware of. They are less on trend than Matalan, and their prices are slightly more expensive. Their target market, in my opinion, is between 25-35. From this competitive shop I found that their cheapest item is, £12 for a blouse, and £16 for a casual dress. Their most expensive items are an evening dress that is priced at £38.00, and £25 for an on trend Victorian lace blouse. It seems that there is an importance of basic items being priced reasonably well, and slightly more on trend items that are more expensive. Similar to Matalan, in my opinion, there seems to be an emphasis on simplistic outfit building designs. The fabric choice is focused on polyester and viscose, similar to Matalan, but their designs are more intricate with some of their on trend items. New Look has a slightly younger target market than Matalan and Dorothy Perkins, with their products reflecting that. They may share the value price points, but their items are more trend focused throughout. Once again the fabric choices for spring/summer 2016 at New Look is polyester and viscose, which is more or less the same as Matalan and Dorothy Perkins, but their prices are cheaper and they appeal to the more fashion conscious target market. I can see that they may take the key young demographic of 17-22 away from Matalan and Dorothy Perkins. New Look’s range is more eclectic than Matalan and Dorothy Perkins, which could be seen as a disadvantage as it prevents the customer from building their looks to fit their personal style that may not be so extrovert. However, the price points is what attracts the customer into the store, and their buying behaviour could change due to the good value. H&M is very similar to New Look in regards to how trend focused their ranges sometimes are, during this competitive shop I found that their spring/summer 2016 range was relatively neutral and was not filled with as much bombastic prints, and colour, like Matalan and New Look have in their spring/summer 2016 ranges. Similarity to Matalan, Dorothy Perkins and New Look, their fabric choices are mainly viscose, as this is the cheapest option and can be used for various shapes and styles within the range at a more cost effective price. Their cheapest item is £7.99 for a geo-print top, and their most expensive item is £29.99 for a blue and white zip back summer dress. Their target market generally stays between the ages of 17-25, with their styling appealing to the younger generation with youth filled ad campaigns and visual merchandising in store. Miss Selfridge is one of the more higher priced out of the four retailers that I chose to compare with Matalan. Their style is more elegant, with a direct focus on evening wear over casual wear. They use polyester and viscose in their items, but their prices are a lot higher than Matalan, Dorothy Perkins, New Look and H&M. Miss Selfridge would seem to attract a customer with higher income, and more sophisticated styling that does not change with the seasons. They understand their customer, similar to Matalan, but they do not seem to be attempting to bring in a new customer. Their cheapest item is a halterneck dress that is more casual than their other dresses and it is priced at £22.00. Their more expensive item is £49.00, and this is a wrap front printed maxi dress. Matalan has the price points, the fabric, and the carefully selected on trend prints and colours that they know their customer will buy into and not be afraid of, however their womenswear could have more options for their core customer to choose from, as they seem to be successful in gaining new customers with the new ‘Edit’ they have introduced into all their departments. I conclude from this womenswear competitive shop that it is important that Matalan continue to build their brand, but not neglect their key customers who may be older and may want to be on trend but with more familiar shapes and styling.
Competitive Shop: Menswear: Matalan
Pricing: £50.00 Composition: 55% Polyester 45% Wool. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £50.00 Composition: 81% Polyester 19% Viscose Lining 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition: 55% Polyester 45% Wool. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition: 85% Polyester 15% Viscose.
Pricing: £39.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £25 Shell: 100% Polyester. Body Sleeve Lining: 100% Polyester. Rib: 98% Polyester 2% Elastane.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: Front: 50% Cotton 50% Polyester. Back & Sleeve: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £22.00 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £5.00 Composition: 57% Cotton 43% Polyester.
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 87% Polyester 13% Viscose. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £4.00 Composition: 100% cotton
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: 59% Cotton 41% Polyester.
Competitive Shop: Menswear: Burton
Pricing: £49.00 Composition: 68% Polyester,32% Viscose. Machine washable
Pricing: £80.00 Composition: 61% Polyester,21% Viscose,17% Polyamide,1% Elastane.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition: 66% Polyester,34% Viscose.
Pricing: £40.00 Composition: 61% Cotton,21% Viscose,17% Polyamide,1% Elastane.
Pricing: £40.00 Composition: 61% Cotton,21% Viscose,17% Polyamide,1% Elastane.
Pricing: £80.00 Composition: 61% Cotton,21% Viscose,17% Polyamide,1% Elastane.
Pricing: £70.00 Composition58% Linen,42% Cotton.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: 88% Cotton,12% Polyester.
Pricing: £16.00 Composition: 50% Cotton,50% Modal.
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £80.00 Composition: 98% Cotton,2% Elastane.
Pricing: £30.00 Composition: 67% Cotton,33% Polyester.
Pricing: £45 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £50 Composition: 58% Cotton,33% Polyester,9% Nylon..
Competitive Shop: Menswear: Topman
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 80% Polyester, 20% Viscose
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 80% Polyester, 20% Viscose
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 80% Polyester, 20% Viscose
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 96% Polyester, 3% Lyocell, 1% Linen
Pricing: £18.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £7.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £26.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £28.00 Composition: 99% Cotton, 1% Elastane
Competitive Shop: Menswear: River Island
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 2% Elastane, 76% Polyester, 22% Viscose
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 2% Elastane, 76% Polyester, 22% Viscose
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 2% Elastane, 76% Polyester, 22% Viscose
Pricing: £110.00 Composition: 50% Cotton, 25% Linen, 25% Polyester
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 2% Elastane, 76% Polyester, 22% Viscose
Pricing: £40.00 Composition: 50% Cotton, 25% Linen, 25% Polyester
Pricing: £50.00 Composition: 60% Cotton, 40% Nylon (polyamide)
Pricing: £32.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £45.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £15.00 Composition: 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane
Pricing: £65.00 Composition: 100% Polyurethane
Pricing: £15.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £30.00 Composition: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Competitive Shop: Menswear: New Look
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 2% Elastane, 76% Polyester, 22% Viscose
Pricing: £19.99 Composition: 84% Polyester, 14% Viscose, 2% Elastane.
Pricing: £64.99 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: 65% Polyester, 35% Viscose.
Pricing: £59.99 Composition: 67% Polyester, 33% Viscose.
Pricing: £59.99 Composition: 67% Polyester, 33% Viscose.
Pricing: £29.99 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane.
Pricing: £22.99 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Pricing: £19.99 Composition: 67% Polyester, 33% Viscose.
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: 99% Cotton, 1% Elastane.
Pricing: £19.99 Composition: 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane.
Pricing: £14.99 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £4.99 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Competitive Shop: Menswear: Analysis Matalan’s menswear range for spring/summer 2016 is casual overall but their suit ranges are fairly priced and seem to be popular with customers for special occasions as they provide good value, and good quality suits for every age group no matter the occasion. Their fabric choices for their suits are mostly polyester, or sometimes a mix of wool and polyester. Not only does this give the suit a greater longevity and allows it to be worn multiple times with less risk of wear and tear, but it can be designed for different customer’s shape and size. Matalan’s menswear department seems to have a confusing target market for their ranges, as the spring/summer 2016 range that I used for this competitive shop has a lot of youth inspired styles, graphic prints, and shapes, but also has bestselling familiar shapes such as Harrington jackets and polo shirts. The cheapest item is a plain white t-shirt, that is made of cotton, this is priced at £4.00. The most expensive items from the fourteen products I sourced from the Matalan website for this competitive shop were two evening suit jackets that cost £50.00 each. Not only does this show that they have a strong position in the suit market, and understand their customer, but they also are aware that they need to be appealing to the younger crowd also with their more adventurous casual range for spring/summer 2016 taking centre stage over the more simplistic basic designs that are constant throughout the menswear department; polo shirts in various colours, and cotton t-shirts in various colours. Burton is one of Matalan’s immediate competitors due to its position on the high street, and its ability to take trends from the catwalk but make it more relatable to their target audience, which is narrower than Matalan’s. Burton’s target market, I have deduced, could be between 21 and 31 years of age. The fabric composition of the suits are mixed, with linin, polyester and viscose being the main fabric choices within the spring/summer 2016 range. The colour is less general, and is lighter and fits their youthful customer. They also have a Harrington jacket, but with the composition reflective of the current catwalk trends for suede, and tan as the colour of choice. The cheapest item within the fourteen pieces that I have sourced for the competitive shop is acid wash denim-style long sleeved top, and the most expensive item is the suit two button evening jacket that is priced at £80.00. The suits that Burton have for the spring/summer 2016 range are more suitable to wear for summer events that may be less formal than the suits Matalan has for their spring/summer 2016 range. I chose to add Topshop to this competitive shop as they may be a little more expensive than the other retailers in this competitive shop, but they have more trend focused items and appeal to the key target market that Matalan should be aiming towards. The Topman age range is between 25-35, who want to pay more for better quality and different options that other high street stores do not offer them. They also have a Harrington jacket, and it is available in a similar colour to Matalan but it is made of 100% cotton which is a better quality. Cotton is the primary fabric choice for the Topman menswear range for spring/summer 2016, this is proof of their good quality that other retailers lack such as Burton and Matalan. The cheapest item is a 100% cotton plain t-shirt that is £7.00, and their most expensive item is £65 for the three suit jackets in the competitive shop. River Island is just below Topman in terms of how much they take from catwalk trends, but their prices are slightly higher than Matalan and Burton. Their cheapest item is a printed plain white t-shirt that is priced at £12. This type of t-shirt is similar to what Matalan sell all year round, with a variety of graphic illustrations on the chest. Unlike Topman however, their fabric mixes are similar to Matalan and Burton, as they use viscose and polyester throughout their clothes as well as cotton. River Island target their menswear range at 25-35 year old men, as they consistently use catwalk trends and mix casual and evening wear to create a more accessible range for their target market. The most expensive item in the fourteen piece competitive shop I conducted of River Island is the linen mix suit jacket. New Look’s spring/summer 2016 range is similar to Matalan as they focus on the bestselling shapes of previous seasons, instead of taking trends from the catwalk and making them fit their target customer. The New Look menswear target market is between 21-29. It is relatively younger than New Looks competitors. The styling is simple, with emphasis more on graphic prints and suits that can be worn for special occasions without being too different. The cheapest item in the competitive shop that I undertook for New Look is a striped t-shirt that is £4.99, and their most expensive item in this competitive shop is a grey herringbone style suit jacket. New Look also have a Harrington jacket design in their spring/summer range, as this is a popular style of jacket for men of all ages. This tells me that menswear is more or loss focused on bestsellers, and comfortable shapes and designs that do not scare the customer away from the brand. The fabric mixes that are typically used in New Look menswear are polyester and viscose, two fabrics that have appeared in nearly all of my competitive shops thus far. It shows me that they are the typical fabrics to use in menswear, as they are easy to take care of, and are less likely to succumb to wear and tear over time, especially with suits.
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: Matalan
Pricing: £15.00 Pricing: £8.00 Composition: Upper. Lining Sock Composition: Upper: Textile. Lining & Sock: Other Textile. Textile. Sole Other. Sole: Other.
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £5.00 Composition: 100% PU..
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: Upper: Textile Other. Lining & Sock: Textile. Sole: Other.
Pricing: £8.00 Composition: 100% Paper.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: All Other Materials. Heel Height: Approx 1 1/2 Inch.
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: Shell: PU. Trim: PU. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: Upper: Textile. Lining And Sock: Other Textile. Sole: Other. Heel Height 4 3/4 Inches..
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: Shell: 100% Polyester. Trim: PVC. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: Upper: Other. Lining & Sock: Other. Sole: Other. Heel Height: Approx 4 3/4 inches.
Pricing: £15.00 Composition: All Other Materials. Heel Height: Approx 4 5/8.
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: Shell: 100% Polypropylene. Lining: 100% Polyester Handle.
Pricing: £8.00 Composition: Shell: 91% Paper Yarn 9% Polyester. Trim: PVC. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: Dorothy Perkins
Pricing: £23.00 Composition: Tan leather woven flat sandals. 100% Leather.
Pricing: £19.00 Composition: 100% TEXTILE
Pricing: £18.00 Composition: 100% OTHER
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: 100% Cotton
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: 100% Polyester
Pricing: £18.00 Composition:100% Polyurethane
Pricing: £35.00 Composition: 100% TEXTILE.
Pricing: £25.00 Composition:100% Polyurethane
Pricing: £20.00 Composition: 100% Synthetic.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition:100% Paper.
Pricing: £23.00 Composition: 100% Synthetic.
Pricing: £12.00 Composition:100% Paper.
Pricing: £32.00 Composition: 100% polyester
Pricing: £14.50
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: New Look
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £9.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: Upper: Leather Lining: Other Sole: Other
Pricing: £12.99 Composition: Man Made.
Pricing: £39.99 Composition: Upper: Leather Lining: Other Sole: Other
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: Man Made.
Pricing: £17.99 Composition: Man Made.
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £24.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £7.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £7.99 Composition: Man Made
Pricing: £4.99 Composition: Man Made
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: Peacocks
Pricing: £18.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Leather/Textile, Sock/Lining Leather, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Textile, Sock/Lining Textile, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £10.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Other Materials, Sock/Lining Other Materials, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £22.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Textile, Sock/Lining Other Materials, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £8.00 Composition: Fabric: 56% PAPER 44% POLYESTER
Pricing: £8.00 Composition: Fabric: 100% PAPER STRAW
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: Fabric: OUTER 100% POLYURETHANE INNER - 100% POLYESTER
Pricing: £16.00 Composition: Fabric: 80% POLYESTER 20% POLYVINYLCHORIDE
Pricing: £14.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Textile, Sock/Lining Other Materials, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £12.00 Composition: Fabric: 100% COTTON
Pricing: £24.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Textile, Sock/Lining Other Materials, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £24.00 Composition: Fabric: Upper Other Materials, Sock/Lining Other Materials, Outersole Other Materials
Pricing: £3.50 Composition: Fabric: METAL
Pricing: £6.00 Composition: Fabric: METAL
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: Primark
Pricing: £16.00
Pricing: £12.00
Pricing: £10.00
Pricing: £4.00
Pricing: £4.00
Pricing: £4.00
Pricing: £8.00
Pricing: £4.00
Pricing: £12.00
Pricing: £8.00
Pricing: £5.00
Pricing: £5.00
Pricing: £20.00
Pricing: £7.00
Competitive Shop: Footwear and Accessories: Analysis Matalan’s footwear and accessories department continues to be one of the most profitable departments in the company, this is proven with their choice of products for both autumn/winter and spring/summer. Spring/summer 2016 in this department consists of mostly holiday items, that can be worn when the weather is nice outside or when the customer is going on holiday with friends or family. The target market for Matalan’s footwear and accessories department differs from the ladieswear department; they have constant bestselling designs that are reproduced in every season that are suitable for work and also for the older customer that prefers comfort above style. However, Matalan is also aware of trends and how important this is in accessories and footwear; for example, they have recreated designer bags, and footwear, in the past and have increased their profits by doing so. The competitive shop I undertook for Matalan showed me that their target age range is between 18-35. Their cheapest product in footwear is the lace espadrille, which is priced at £8.00. Their most expensive item is a block heel that is priced at £20.00. The more casual items are priced cheaper, and the more on-trend items are priced higher. The footwear and accessories available sometimes does not match up to the ladies wear department, however with the new ‘Edit’ it seems that the buyers for ladies are starting catch up to the designs available in footwear and accessories. Dorothy Perkins’s footwear and accessories section also focuses on trends for their bags and their shoes, with popular trends such as fringing, and espadrilles, appearing in their spring/summer 2016 range. Similar to Matalan, Dorothy Perkins takes a trend and makes it accessible to their customer and to the general public with familiar designs, patters, and colours. Dorothy Perkins’s cheapest product in the competitive shop I conducted was a scarf for £10.00, and in their footwear their cheapest item was an espadrille priced at £18.00. The target market for Dorothy Perkins is similar to the target market for their ladies wear range, however it is more trend focused which is similar to Matalan. Their pricing is higher, and this is not reflected in different material compositions in their footwear or their accessories. New Look’s footwear and accessories section has more of a theme from street style and festivals than from the catwalk. They have used popular festivals like Coachella to influence their footwear and accessories range for spring/summer 2016, as their target market of 17-25 is more likely to be going to festivals than going on holiday with friends and family. Their awareness of their target market makes their range focused, eclectic, and different than their competitors with their pricing as equally focused with their cheapest item in footwear being a pair of jelly sandals, that are priced at £9.99. Their most expensive footwear item is a pair of on trend block mid-heel court shoe that was seen on the catwalk at Chanel for spring/summer 2016. This item is more trend focused, and more formal compared to the other products available within the festival ‘theme’, and therefore it is priced higher. However, the sandals that are more than often worn to festivals all over the world in the summer heat are priced cheaper to fit their ideal target customer’s budget. This shows me that New Look does not forget their target customer, but is not blind to customers who want good quality products for a better value. Peacocks is a value high street store, similar to Dorothy Perkins; their target market is relatively the same (25-35) with an emphasis on value over trends. However, like Matalan, Dorothy Perkins and New Look, they have a very focused footwear and accessories collection for spring/summer 2016 that is trendy and appeals to the younger demographic. Their cheapest item of footwear is a pearl embellished black jelly sandal that is £10.00, and their most expensive item is a lace up black heel that is priced at £24.00. Similar to Matalan, Dorothy Perkins, and New Look, Peacocks also takes inspiration from festivals, as well as customers who want good value holiday items. They are aware that they may attract a younger crowd with their footwear and accessories range, and can increase their profits through footwear and accessories instead of only with their clothes that can be divisive amongst their variety of customers. Primark is one of the most successful companies in terms of their ability to take a trend that their competitors are aware of, as well as trends that have a short life span, and make them profitable for their company. Their cheapest footwear item is an Aztec print espadrille that is priced at £8.00; a product that can be worn on holiday and left at the hotel if need be. The most expensive footwear item is £16.00 for a lace up block heel. Their accessories are holiday themed, and can be bought by a wide range of customers from every age band. What I have found from this competitive shop is that footwear and accessory departments are the easiest departments to make profits from core customers, as well as customers who are passing by to look for items they need for holidays and festival weekends. This department is more or less on trend, and may be different to their ladies wear counterpart, but services core customers and non-core customers alike with their good pricing, and variety.
Competitive Shop: Report Evaluation The competitive shop has show me that in ladies wear, Matalan have a clear focus on the customer they want to bring in to their ladies wear department with their new ‘Edit’ range. However, the weakness that I have found is that they do not have a sufficient balance for the ‘core’ customer between the ages of 35-55. Therefore, after looking at the four other retailers; Dorothy Perkins, New Look, H&M, and Miss Selfridge, I have found that they all have a clear view of who their customer is, and they price their products correctly and there is no confusion as to who they are targeting. Therefore, by brining in Cath Kidston as a collaborator for the ladies wear department, as the buyer I will attempt to refresh the current products that Matalan target at their core customer between the ages of 25-55 to make it more exciting, and to give them more options available as some may be isolated by the new ‘Edit’ range. Matalan have revitalised their ladies wear range for the young customer, and now I believe it is important to transfer that development onto the core customer, and introduce more of a balanced shop floor where the 35-55 customer can maybe pick up a few items from the ladies wear ‘Edit’ with their daughters, and then walk to the Cath Kidston collaboration to find a few items for themselves. The composition of the fabrics will not be difficult to source, as Cath Kidston have their clothing ranges sourced from China but their pricing is very high. Therefore introducing Cath Kidston to Matalan will not be the same as introducing a high street competitor into the Matalan family, instead it will be beneficial for the customer to get a slice of Cath Kidston with a print, or a traditional English style of clothing with subtle prints or buttons on a shirt for a lower price and in a more comfortable fabric that could also be sourced from China for a fraction of the cost price. The competitive shop for Menswear has shown me that most of the menswear ranges on the high street that I sourced from Burton, Topman, River Island, and New Look, showed me that there are consistent designs throughout all the ranges such as the Harrington jacket, and the two-button suit and single button suit. Matalan currently target the core customer successfully, but they do not bring in the younger target customer of 25-35 into the store. Paul Smith was chosen by me as the buyer for this range because of his history of collaborations, and his success in ‘relaxing the suit’ in the seventies, and introducing the suit to the general public as not just an outfit that is worn to an interview or to a wedding, or funeral. Introducing a colourful palette, and different fabric swatches to the Paul Smith and Matalan collaboration will entice a younger crowd into the store with suits, and casual wear. The competitive shop for accessories showed me that Matalan have a very trend focused footwear and accessories range that continues to be profitable over other departments, I know this from the team briefs that I receive before the start of every shift. All the retailers I included in my competitive shop for accessories and footwear, such as Dorothy Perkins, New Look, Peacocks, and Primark, I have found that there are clear trends and clear markets that are targeted with the footwear and accessories ranges. The accessories and footwear range collaboration with Erdem will add to the tri-factor of British collaborations that will be at Matalan throughout the spring/summer 2017 season. The range will be aimed at the 18-25 market, but will not isolate the core customer who will shop the Matalan bestsellers from previous seasons but updated for the spring/summer 2017 season.
The three designers collaborations at Matalan join Julien Macdonald as Matalan continue to grow and expand their business. Each of these designers have an influence on a global scale with different demographics, and different target markets. It can only help Matalan in the continuous growth of the company, and help its longevity in the retail industry by keeping it’s core customers happy and introducing new customers to the Matalan family.
Customer Profile: Matalan Womenswear
Customer Profile: Matalan Womenswear Accessories
Customer Profile: Matalan Menswear
Cath Kidston Mood Board
KITSCH
FABRIC
ENGLISH
FLORAL
WALLPAPER
Cath Kidston: Field Research I visited Cath Kidston’s store in Liverpool One on 19th April 2016. I found in their store that visual merchandising was important, and the store was decorated in a kitsch manner, with cute cues relatable to the location in and around the store in small instances; such as The Beatles portrait on the corner wall the evoked a homely feel to the small shop and made it feel like it was not a big business and connected with its customer. On their About Us page on their website they have a timeline of how they started the company. Cath Kidston opened her first store in Holland Park in 1993, selling hand towels and furniture that was adorned with embroidery. The theme of Cath Kidston the brand comes from Cath’s childhood, growing up in the English countryside, and then seeing a niche in the home decorating market for ‘Modern Vintage’ designs. To expand her brand even further, she turned to wholesale, and traded on a stall to bigger retailers who eventually placed her in their department stores that could reach a wider
Primary photographs taken by me, April, 2016.
audience. Cath Kidston expanded further after 1999 to licencing her brand to other brands such as Roberts Radio and Churchill China. In 2006 Cath Kidston, the brand, expanded internationally to Tokyo, Japan and 9 stores were opened over 4 years after its success internationally. References Cathkidston.com. (2016). CathKidston | Content. [online] Available at: http://www.cathkidston.com/thestorysofar/content/fcp-content [Accessed 21 Apr. 2016].
Womenswear//Cath Kidston SWOT
Strengths • •
•
Appeals to young women, and older women. Recognisable brand nationally. Understands its market, and visual merchandising in store is focused and clear.
Weaknesses •
Products are made in China, reduces it’s authenticity as a British brand. Small units, to add to the ‘kitsch’ homely feel of the brand, makes it harder to find. No diversion in style with each season.
• •
Threats
Opportunities • •
Growth internationally online, and with store expansion. Continue with successful franchising of brand.
•
•
Bigger brands using their stylised prints, selling them cheaper, and overshadowing Cath Kidston as a brand. Middling growth, no development and therefore lose target market to other brands like Primark
Cath Kidston Customer Profile
Cath Kidston: SWOT Analysis The SWOT that I conducted for Cath Kidston has helped me find what the good points of the brand are in regards to their focused visual merchandising, and their powerful distinctive prints. Also, it has helped me distinguish their method of sourcing. I have emailed Cath Kidston’s head office, and one of their buyers through Linkedn. They have not responded to my requests regarding their sourcing, but from visiting their store in Liverpool One and after reading the wash care labels, I have found that the majority of their products are manufactured in China. This surprised me, and I found this to be a weakness as the company’s price points were higher than average high street retailers, but the production having been sourced from China may decrease the quality of the product due to the negative connotations attached to overseas sourcing. There is an opportunity to create a franchise relationship with Cath Kidston, since they have previously franchises their brand and prints to other products from a diverse selection including electrical items such as radios. Therefore, it helps me as the buyer to understand that Cath Kidston’s history with franchising their name to other brands is proof that the idea I have had for Matalan is not far from reality, and could be a real concept in the future. Cath Kidston’s well known prints and style make it one of the most recognisable brands nationally, and internationally. It proudly flies the flag for Britain, and this can be seen in many motifs throughout their ranges. Matalan is a proud British store, and is an international brand also. It could help both brands to collaborate and raise each brand’s awareness on a international stage. It could also help Cath Kidston from being undercut by bigger and cheaper retailers like Primark, and New Look, that sometimes have adopted the designs and patterns that are well known to Cath Kidston, but make them cheaper and showcase them to a broader audience without crediting Cath Kidston. Therefore, introducing Cath Kidston to a brand like Matalan could prevent this from happening, and bring in more customers to their stand alone stores and also Matalan.
Paul Smith Mood Board
BASICS
TRADITIONAL COLOURFUL
READY TO WEAR
ACCESSORIES SUITS
Paul Smith: Desk Research Paul Smith has an inspiration story for how he began
his brand; it all began with a cycle accident. After the accident Paul Smith began taking tailoring sessions of an evening. Paul Smith used to work at Saville Row shop Lincroft Kilgour, and his designs were worn by celebrities of the time. Paul Smith opened his first shop on 10 Byard Lane, Nottingham around 1970, and showed his first menswear collection in 1976 in Paris. Paul Smith was one of the forefront’s of British men’s fashion in the 1970’s, he ‘relaxed the suit’ and making them more accessible for men to wear for more casual events as opposed to only weddings, and funerals. Japan is Paul Smith’s larges market currently, and he has developed a ‘cult status’ in Tokyo after his first store opened in 1984.
References Anon, (2016). [online] Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10015203/Sir-Paul-Smith-I-learnt-the-trade-doing-some-crummy-jobs.html [Accessed 21 Apr. 2016]. Mowbray, N. (2006). Paul Smith, man of the cloth. [online] the Guardian. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2006/jun/04/theobserver.observerbusiness15 [Accessed 21 Apr. 2016].
Paul Smith, Beijing, China.
Menswear//Paul Smith Collaboration
Strengths • • • • •
Household name. Modern take on menswear Internationally renowned brand, including a key market in China. Casual and formal fusion clothing. Good quality.
Weaknesses • •
Expensive to the ordinary man. Evokes a style suited to a London man, as opposed to a British man. Mostly concession stores within the UK.
•
Threats
Opportunities •
•
More franchise opportunities will make the brand known to working class men. Make the brand more accessible within the UK.
•
High street stores producing on trend suits and casual wear that will under cut the Paul Smith brand.
Paul Smith Customer Profile
Paul Smith: SWOT Analysis Paul Smith is a world renowned British designer. His ability to show both formal, and casual, wear to a wide variety of men make this designer bigger than it’s clothing. Paul Smith is a brand as a name itself, and has successfully franchised it’s name to numerous products that make it accessible to a wide variety of male consumers that expand its target market within different retails sectors; fast fashion, branded fashion, designer fashion. The strengths that I have found whilst conducted this SWOT for Paul Smith is that not only is the brand a household name across the world, it has successfully transplanted itself into the Asian market, specifically
China. This could help Matalan expand their brand globally and compete with other fast fashion brands in China, but with an edge in their branded buying collaboration development with Paul Smith. One of the weaknesses that Paul Smith has is it’s lack of stores within the UK. In contrast to its international expansion and development, the brand has not ventured further than London and the surrounding areas when it comes to opening new stores and concessions. This not only prevents the company from increasing it’s profitability within the UK, but it shows me as a buyer that it lacks important information about the growth in the UK economy, and the expansion of the middle class male who wants to spend more on suits. This can be found during my field research at the MET Quarter in Liverpool, where brands like Armani Xchange and Hugo Boss have placed themselves amongst the rich quarter of Liverpool, and have been successful in
appealing to the new middle class. One of the threats to Paul Smith is how high street and high end brands are copying the casual designs that Paul Smith has developed since its conception as a brand in the 1970’s, and are feeding the key target market affordable fashionable suits.
Erdem Mood Board
ROMANTIC
COOL FLORAL PATTERNS
ACCESSIBLE TRADITIONAL
Womenswear//Footwear and Accessories Strengths • • •
• •
•
British designer. Innovative High calibre of celebrity clientele. Relatable designs to most women. Respected designer within the fashion community; receives a lot of press in Vogue and internationally. Previous collaboration with Topshop.
Weaknesses •
Expensive brand, very exclusive. Not many concessions within the UK. Not a household name as of yet.
•
•
Threats
Opportunities • •
•
Growth within the UK. Opportunity to increase its brand awareness with collaborations with bigger high street stores. Expand internationally
•
•
Bigger designer names forming relationships with high street brands, and losing key opportunities to increase their target market and commercial ability. Lose the quality of their clothing if they spread themselves too thinly
Erdem Customer Profile
Erdem: SWOT Analysis Erdem is a new British designer brand, with a British designer at the helm. It is named after him, and produces feminine and romantic clothing and
accessories that make it one of the best designers in the UK as of 2016. Not only is Erdem British, but Erdem has a large number of celebrity clients that were his clothing to numerous events. His brand is respected amongst the fashion elite, due to his ability to create a story with his clothes, but also because the collections that he produces are easily replicated for the commercial market. One of the weaknesses of this designer is that he is not instantly recognisable, and is not yet a household name. This can make it a difficult sell to the Matalan head office as the range would have to be commercial and familiar to the Matalan customer for them to want to buy into the brand, as the name on the swing ticket may not sway the customer into buying the product. However, there may be a small section of customer who recognise the Erdem name, and this could introduce a new customer and key demographic to the Matalan brand. There could be opportunities for high fashion magazines like Elle and Vogue to talk about the range in their magazines, as it would be unusual for a high fashion designer to collaborate with a fast fashion retailer such as Matalan. Another opportunity for Erdem is that this could introduce them to a wider range of customer who may not buy their
clothing, but could buy into their accessories line. This could help them grow their business faster than if they had not collaborated with a retailer. They have collaborated with Topshop previously, but for a one off t-shirt range. This would be bigger, and could attract more attention to Matalan. Two threats I have recognised include the quality of the accessories may have to be dramatically lower than the quality Erdem currently have; this could have a negative affect on the brand, as people may buy a faulty item and blame the designer not the Matalan production cycle and quality control. Another threat could be bigger designer names being picked by Matalan’s competitors, and therefore taking away the target customer from the Erdem collaboration range, and therefore a loss of profit would occur.
Erdem: Desk Research Erdem Moralioglu is an award winning Canadian/British designer, who grew up in Montreal and Birmingham. Erdem moved to London to pursue a career in fashion. Erdem graduated from Ryeson University in Toronto, Canada, and then moved to London soon after to intern at renowned British designer Vivienne
Westwood at her London offices; archiving her collections before winning the Cherening Scholarship to help him afford further education at the Royal College of Art. After graduating from RCA he moved to New York City and interned with Diane von Furstenburg in 2004. In 2005 he launched Erdem, his own label,
Erdem, Dover Street Market, London
at London Fashion Week Fringe. He won prize money at the event which helped him continue his career as one of the leading British womenswear designers. Erdem has created a capsule collection exclusively for Net-A-Porter, and has collaborated with
various other businesses such as Smythson. Erdem collaborated with Topshop in 2012 on a t-shirt to celebrate the brand’s ten year anniversary sponsoring the British Fashion Council NEWGEN scheme; to recognise up and coming talent.
Erdem, South Audley Street, Mayfair, London References Vogue UK. (2016). Erdem Moralioglu. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/erdem-moralioglu-biography [Accessed 21 Apr. 2016].
Field of Sunflowers- Van Gogh
Premiere Vision New York City: Patternbank on Pinterest showcases the key trends for spring/summer 2017 trends. One of the key trends is ‘Graphic Flora’. Bright colours, psychedelic, similar to that of the seventies trend that has been on the catwalk the past two seasons, with influences from from the 18-19th century. However, this time there is a modernist artistic stroke that
The irises- Van Gogh
reflects both modernist art and its evolution into
impressionism. References Pinterest. (2016). Patternbank (patternbank). [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/patternbank/ [Accessed 29 Apr. 2016].
Trend Forecasting: Premiere Vision S/S 2017
Takashi Murakami
Patternbank’s trend report from Premiere Vision New York city also found that ‘Candy Kimono’ was a trend for spring/summer 2017. There is a colourful feminine trait in this trend that appeals to both the young and older customer; pastel prints, and subtle bright colours, evoking playfulness in the summer, and come rain or shine will brighten any outfit. Takashi Murakami is famous for his graphic floral prints that mix surreal graphic shapes and colour to create an inviting artistic piece. References Pinterest. (2016). Patternbank (patternbank). [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/patternbank/ [Accessed 29 Apr. 2016].
Yayoi Kusama Trend Forecasting: Premiere Vision S/S 2017
Jamaica Forest Prints and presses of exotic foilage are nearly always a constant in spring/summer. However, there is a deconstructed aspect to the ‘Tropic Planthouse’ trend that Patternbank picked out from the Premiere Vision New York spring/summer 2017 trade show. The prints are simple, contemporary, and are clean and concise, and an opposite to the natural wonder of the Amazon rainforest and the tropical forests in Jamaica. This cool aesthetic is elegant, and calm. References Pinterest. (2016). Patternbank (patternbank). [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/patternbank/ [Accessed 29 Apr. 2016].
Amazon Forest Trend Forecasting: Premiere Vision S/S 2017
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017: WGSN
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017: WGSN
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Footwear and Accessories Spring/Summer 2017: WGSN
Trend Forecasting Menswear Spring/Summer 2017: WGSN
Trend Forecasting Menswear Spring/Summer 2017: WGSN
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
3.1 Phillip Lim’s tenth collection for NYFW was based around reinventing old designs, and using their origins to create something completely new and refreshing. This theme has been explored on WGSN with their trend forecasters highlighting this particular theme to carry on into spring/summer 2017. In his collection he showcased romanticism but with a cynical twist; menswear re-invented as womenswear. Feminine floral prints, a staple throughout spring/summer, but with relaxed trousers, shirts, and jackets. With hints of delicate embellishments such as ruffles and embroidery, the collection also had overlying utilitarian designs; such as cargo trousers, and practical pockets. The whole collection was direct and focused, accessible to every woman walking the streets today. Perfect for the in climate summer weather. References Vogue.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim [Accessed 22 Apr. 2016].
Michael Kors said backstage at his spring/summer 2016 collection, ‘I’m convinced that you can be covered up, but very sexy…’. This collection proved this with an array of long sleeve, high neck, designs that do not isolate older clients or younger clients. Michael Kors spoke about ‘earthy elegance’ this also reflects in the trend forecasting from WGSN and ‘Edgelands’. The clothes showcase a simplicity, with shirt dresses that can be worn in the day time and in the night. With romantic materials such as chiffon and lace that add a romantic feel to this collection and coincides with the need to be comfortable in the heat of the summer. The clothes are brought together with accessories such as thin belts, and bags. Taking the clothes from relaxing day time wear to evening wear that requires shape and elegance. References Ellie Pithers, (2015). Michael Kors's strap-happy spring show. [online] The Telegraph. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/new-york-fashion-week/michael-kors-spring-summer-2016-show-report/ [Accessed 22 Apr. 2016].
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
L’Amitie showed elegant shapes, breathable fabric choices, that are suitable for the older woman and the middle aged woman to be comfortable and sexy at the same time. The contemporary colour pallet included deep blues, light pastel colours, and jewel tones to add to the simplistic designs. Culottes are a staple during most spring/summer seasons, and this one was no exception. The relaxed shape add a European flair to any outfit, and with any top it adds a cool styling to any woman’s wardrobe. Showing at London fashion week, it is clear to tell that the designer behind L’Amitie was inspired by the city women, working a 9-5, 5 day week, who do not want to adhere to the suits and skirts but want to look their age but with a flexibility in their clothes that can take them from a boardroom to a dinner with their friends.
The Ralph Lauren collection placed the customer on a French Riveria holiday, away from the hustle and bustle of urban city life. Thin linens were overlayed with thin knitwear, a modern way to overcome changes in the weather that nearly always occur in the summer months. The trend that has been seen on the spring/summer 2016 catwalks was ‘space cadets’ according to Vogue; this ultra fashion terminology can be diluted down to a more useful term; practical clothing. Jumpsuits, clean lines, and bright colours, can all be seen in this trend. Not quite feminine in shape, with a lot of trousers and oversized shirts within this trend. There is an emphasis on layering items of clothing, creating a total complete look. This is important for the older woman.
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend Analysis During this trend forecasting for womenswear I found that there were a lot of comfortable outfits shown on the catwalks around the world. I focused my attention on four designer names; 3.1 Phillip Lim, Michael Kors, L’Amitie, and Ralph Lauren. 3.1 Phillip Lim conveyed
imagery of nature, femininity, and practicality. This collection could be worn by various ages due to its versatility, and the styling of the clothing allowing it to be stripped down for young women, or covered up for older women. This has helped me in my distinction of who the target customer would be for my range, as I the buyer have to focus my attention on a niche in the market. The niche I have chosen is the 45-55 target market, and I believe this style of clothing by 3.1 Phillip Lim that I researched on WGSN has enabled me to understand what Matalan requires for their core customer, but using trends. Michael Kors showed us the sophisticated women that he admires, with uniformed outfits and elegance in how it was styled. This has helped me understand the importance of styling, and how this can help me as the buyer relate to the customer I am targeting. The outfits can be worn in the day time and then transformed into a suitable night time outfit. The colour pallet is neutral, earthy, with simplicity in design as key. What elevated this collection was the attention to detail, and how versatile the outfits were so they could be
worn by different ages of women from all walks of life for any occasion. The fabric choices included chiffon, and cotton fabrics, that are breathable in the summer and do not irritate the skin. This comfort is a high commodity for young and older women, as a woman may not wear an outfit due to how she physically feels in it. Similar to Michael Kors and 3.1 Phillip Lim, L’Amitie also focused on comfort and versatility. The choice of fabric makes it easy to wear on holiday, and during travelling. The shape of the clothing is oversized, lifted from the skin, to create an almost nightwear feel to the clothing without losing its substance as an outfit for day time. The colour pallet also used neutral colours, and typical nautical shades, but also added jewel tones against silk fabrics, to create a luxurious feel to the evening part of the collection. Overall this trend forecasting for spring/summer 2017 has shown me that there is an influence from an older generation, with an importance placed on comfort, versatility, and strong femininity. This is something I could bring in to the new range that I will be brining
to Matalan, and help me focus more clearly on the target market I will be building the range for.
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Accessories Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
Marni showcased a lot of bright accessories, with the bags in primary colours and with a slouched ease to their shape. This ‘grab bag’ style is comfortable and easy for any person to wear when they are going shopping or travelling to their summer holiday destination. There is a modern take on the shoulder bag, that has room for all your needs and more. As well as the primary colours and the large slouch bag, Marni also delved into the evening accessories, with a metallic roll top clutch bag. It look similar to a paper bag in shape, and looks less than sophisticated. Up close, however, it looks more futuristic than anything. The use of colour blocking is popular on the spring/summer 2016 catwalks as it makes a whole outfit ‘pop’ and adds an edge to any outfit.
Gucci’s ecclectic mix of modern kitsch and seventies glamour was epitomised in their accessories. The earrings were heavy, adorned with jewels and became a part of the clothes as embellishment with their length and extravagance. The rings were piled with metal and shiny jewels mixed with more traditional pearls. Jewellery can make an outfit extra special, and can transform a vague outfit into a more focused fashion piece. The seventies trend is still laden heavy on the spring/summer 2016 catwalk, and could be on the 2017 catwalk also. However, this trend is taking on a life of its own with pagan themes, and hints of woodstock festival with the shape and design of the jewellery. It is a modern take on festival wear that is exciting.
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Accessories Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
Jil Sander is not usually associated with trends; their style is contemporary, unique, and attracts a certain style of consumer. However, in the spring/summer 2016 catwalk show their take on the bucket hat was very different to how the 90’s remember it. The fabric used was a strong wicker, and was molded into a shape that not many would find suitable to wear; however the new composition and the neutral colour tones, make it accessible to more customers than if if were printed in neon flowers or camouflage. This is the grown up, practical, version of the bucket hat, and can be worn as a an actual hat when on holiday when the sun is high, and the wind is low. It is more sophisticated, but can appeal to the young woman who wants to look more high fashion, than high street with a folk twist.
Ferragamo’s choice of accessories in their spring/summer 2016 catwalk show did not show anything alternative to the typical spring/summer footwear; gladiator shoes are a staple of summer, with or without ankle straps. The style of colour was similar to what has been seen on other catwalk’s with bright primary colours adding to the colour blocking trend that is prominent throughout the spring summer in any city in the world. The black gladiator sandals add a toughness, with a full ankle strap that is a juxtaposition to the light colours the other models were wearing on their feet. This is a strong style of footwear for women, and suitable for the young woman who wants to evoke a stronger sense of self with their feet; giving a pertinence to their summer outfit.
Trend Forecasting Womenswear Accessories Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend Analysis The accessories trend of slouchy leather bags was seen at Marni. The collection reflected what I found during my womenswear trend forecasting, with an emphasis on bright colours, and large surface areas that make it easier to carry goods whilst on holiday or going to work and other appointments with ease. The Marni collection was sophisticated in style, but the shape of the bags were more ‘grab and go’ that would be fitting for a busy lifestyle that women of every age have today. Not only do the bright colours transform a dowdy collection, but it balances the outfit so that it can appeal to young and older women. Also, the use of primary colours helps the outfit ‘pop’ amongst any outfit; and is an easy item to add on to an outfit. At Gucci, exotic shapes of jewellery and ornate metals added to the kitsch styling of their spring/summer 2017 collection. Once again this shows the power of accessories, and how they can complete an outfit. The metal trend is popular throughout the spring/summer 2017 catwalks that I researched on WGSN, and Pinterest. It is a toughness that compliments the incoming trends of romantic lightweight fabrics, and loose shapes. Not only does this compound the seventies trend that has existed on the catwalks for two seasons consecutively, but it adds a new layer, with influences from the new romantics in both the jewellery and the clothes. This is something that can be utilised by a high street and fast fashion retailer as the cheapest way for a consumer to buy into a trend, with as little effort or money involved. Straw hats, and wide brimmed hats, are very popular amongst women who go on holiday in the summer. They are also consistently dotted around different catwalk shows around the world, and Jil Sander showed on their catwalk a new alternative approach to the simple summer hat; with a reinvention of the bucket hat. The bucket hat, a reflection from the 90’s, came back in spring/summer 2015, and again in 2016, and could most likely continue to be around for spring/summer 2017. Not only because of the 90’s trend still flowing throughout some of the top young designer catwalk shows like Alexander Wang, but because the bucket hat has been updated once again with straw as a new material. This update makes the bucket hat more accessible to the middle aged and older customer, who may not be interested in the cotton, floral, bucket hats, and instead want something sleeker. This hat is more practical, contemporary, and suitable for more than one target market. Similar to the other accessory trends coming from spring/summer 2016, there is a continuous growth of strength and anti-feminine accessories that are in contrast to the ultra-feminine clothing seen by many designers during spring/summer 2016 and could continue on to spring/summer 2017. The use transformation of gladiator heeled sandals at Ferragamo updated a traditional working man’s shoe with bright primary colours, and detailed lace embellishments that make them more like footwear of goddesses as opposed to slaves. The sandals add a familiar comfort, but make a powerful statement with their tough animal hide composition. This style of footwear is more urban than folk, but can belong in both simultaneously. Young women can wear this with jeans, and for a fast fashion company like Matalan it could be popular amongst the trendy demographic, and become a popular statement piece for any outfit. Researching the trends from spring/summer 2016 has helped me foresee what could be popular in spring/summer 2017; with powerful statement jewellery and shoes at the forefront, and bold colours underlining the importance of balance within an outfit, and accessibility for all ages.
Trend Forecasting Menswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
In the Fendi spring/summer 2016 catwalk show in Milan I could see James Dean had influenced the designs; there was a cool ‘swag’ of Dean’s era, but also the relaxed cool of California with floral seventies patterns and relaxed fit trousers and jackets. This man is not afraid of colour, or the different shapes that are more feminine than masculine. The build up of colour from neutral to glossy bronze and tan suede is luxurious. Gone are the mono-tone grey suits, and outfits, that have been on the catwalk for many years. Instead this man is alive and kicking, and seeks to emulate his acting heroes like Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire.
Kolor showed short suits, Bermuda shorts and fifties style shorts for their spring/summer 2016 collection. Not only does this showcase a reflection of the 1950’s summer time where men left their offices to enjoy the hot summer, but also kept a professional ‘look’. The short suit epitomes this aspect, with formal fabrics like tweed and linin, and dark colours, a contrast to the relaxed fit shorts and tailored blazer. The colour pallet is subdued, and typically masculine, which is needed to add a balance to the modern take of suits, and shirts in the collection. This is for the young man who works in the city in an office, who might wear more casual shoes with his short suit.
Trend Forecasting Menswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend
Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2016 catwalk show seems to have been influenced by the film Drive, with exotic embroidery on bomber jackets, silk fabrics, and leather jackets. The colours used were electric and seemed to come straight from the 1980’s digital evolution with the colour spectrum. The minimalistic suits that were shown had shirts that were designed similar to baseball shirts, but made out of luxurious silks in bright colours. This casual style elevated by exotic compositions and detail makes this collection fun, and enthralling. This young man is a wannabe stunt man, a fashion thinking modernist.
Yohji Yamamoto’s collection included graphic prints on classic suits, and also brought the relaxed oversized suit to the forefront. There is a significant alternative urban influence with Yamamoto’s designs, with splashes of colour over crisp shirts and smart suits. The biker jacket is tough and goes against the floaty feminine shapes of the outfits on the catwalk. There is a artistic influence, a folk hipster influence that could appeal to the nu-young man that is everywhere this past year and continues to be a presence on the street. They are cool, disheveled, artistic men who have professional jobs but are born from a different generation that loves colour, modernity and alternative lifestyles.
Trend Forecasting Menswear Spring/Summer 2017: Spring/Summer 2016 Catwalk Trend Analysis I conducted trend research on WGSN for menswear spring/summer 2016 to help me identify what could be the key trends for spring/summer 2017. The first designer was Fendi, and their cool 1950’s inspiration for their spring/summer 2016 show in Milan. There were a lot of colours that came from the late fifties, and early sixties; dark green, pale blue, and khaki. However, the use of more modern shapes such as oversized fit shirts, short suits, and relaxed bomber jackets, reinvented this mod sub culture trend once again. There were subtle hints to Americana, but ultimately the main theme was 1960’s Italian men, on their mopeds and influenced by the fast driving cars of formula one. There was less detail, and less attention to shape, it was more about comfort, cool relaxed fabrics such as cotton and smooth leather. They can be easily brought into any young man’s wardrobe.
What I found at Kolor was the key piece of the short suit. The short suit is a new summer work wear that can be worn in the daytime by a casual man on his day off but wanting to look chic and on trend. It is a style that I foresee young men buying into more than older men, and the choice of fabrics; jersey, linen, make it flexible, comfortable and versatile for every working young man. Matalan have a lot of suits in their menswear department, mostly dark colours and professional/formal. There is a niche in their market to have a more casual summer suit that can appeal to a younger customer. The Kolor collection shows me as the buyer how this can be achieved without becoming too high fashion. Similar to Fendi, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2016 showed a trend that comes straight from the 1980’s; digital graphics, and neon colours. With themes of the Drive film instilled in the Louis Vuitton catwalk show, it once again showed another interpretation of the 1950’s/60’s mod, with subtle hints of legendary Marlon Brandon’s attitude, and Ryan Gosling’s mystery. Through my initial trend forecasting I found on WGSN that there was an upcoming trend for spring/summer 2017 called ‘Digital Wave’ and this is one of the founders of that trend forecasting. This proves to me that there is reason to look back to find the new trends coming into the future. This collection included bomber jackets, tapered trousers, and luxurious fabrics straight from the 1980’s glam musical era. This is fitting for the younger man, and could prove popular amongst men who want to be distinctive amongst the crowd. The fabrics may be over the top, but the shapes are key to this trend and the colours. All of which can be included in the upcoming range for Matalan that I as the buyer am going to produce. The colours and shapes are accessible to the key target market. Yohji Yamamoto’s catwalk was contemporary, and oozed the cool nature of the current Asian fashion’s. The shapes are relaxed, the colours are dark, and the details are subdued. This collection also included suits with a lot of graphic prints splashed across the tailored blazers and relaxed trousers. This again brings the focus onto the spring/summer 2017 trend that I found was popular on Pinterest and WGSN; the ‘Digital Wave’. This is a trend that is open to everyone, it can be worn in a casual and a formal way. There are a lot of choices that can be made by me as the buyer for Matalan menswear, that can aid in the development of the department, and focus on bringing in a new younger customer with this trend in particular.
Trend Forecasting Evaluation This trend forecasting task has helped me become more decisive in how I will approach the womenswear range for Soon at Matalan for spring/summer 2017. I have found that designers are focusing more on comfortable shapes, and breathable fabrics, that can be worn in different climates. I looked at catwalk shows that reflected my interest in producing a mature range for Matalan’s Soon range. They have shown me that it is less about the pieces, and more about how they can be built up and stripped down to suit different personalities. For example, this range would be targeted at the 45-55 target market, the core customer of Matalan; however, pieces can be worn separately with pieces from other sub-brands within Matalan or with the new on trend Edit range if the younger customer chooses to do so. With the accessories trends, I have found that there is a constant push towards on trend products with women’s accessories every season, and open to buy is important to accessories buyers as short term trends can come and go and can help a brand increase their profits short term that can help the
growth of the company long term. The accessories will be targeted to the younger woman, but there will be items that can be bought by core customers; such as straw hats, or straw beach bags, that are important to every woman’s holiday. The footwear is strong, and could be an affordable way for the Matalan customer to buy into a trend, or transform their layered simplistic outfit with a powerful and colourful heel or espadrille. The menswear trends that I found through my desk research and through field research in store, I have found that there is a niche in the Matalan menswear department, that I discovered through my SWOT analysis. I found they needed to focus more on brining in a new customer, as they nearly always appease the core customer. There needs to be a balance within the menswear department, and the trend forecasting I conducted helped me find what trend could be popular next season with the use of the WGSN trend forecasting the ‘Digital Wave’ as a key trend for spring/summer 2017 and the spring/summer 2016 trends that I had found in order to reinforce my decision, and find key shapes and colours for the new range. The trend forecasting has helped me conclude the focus I need for the three ranges that I will be bringing to Matalan’s womenswear, womens
accessories, and menswear.
Directional Shop: Womenswear Designer
Matalan Price: £16 Composition: Shell: 100% Viscose. Lining: 100% Cotton.
Burberry Price: £795 Composition:100% silk; lining 90% silk, 10% elastane
Matalan Price: £22 Composition:100% Lyocell
Etra Cecile Price: £170 Composition: 100% cotton
Matalan Price: £20 Composition: 100% Cotton.
RTA Price: £450 Composition: 100% cotton
Matalan Price: £28 Composition: 100% Acrylic..
Free People Price: £230 Composition: 100% suede; lining 100% cotton
Matalan Price: £14 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Tommy Hilfiger Price: £380 Composition: 100% cotton
Matalan Price: £4 Composition: 100% Cotton
Matalan Price: £14 Composition: 100% Viscose
J Brand Fashion Price: £60 Composition: 92% cotton, 8% elastane
Etro Price: £1875 Composition: 100% silk; lining silk
Directional Shop: Womenswear High Street
Matalan Price: £10.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Matalan Price: £10.00 Composition: 96% Viscose 4% Elastane
Matalan Price: £18.00 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Lush Price: £32.07 Composition: 68% polyester, 32% rayon.
Leith Price: £40.82 Composition: Polyester/cotton.
Eliza J Price: £100.58 Composition: 100% cotton.
Matalan Price: £25.00 Composition: Shell: 100% Polyester. Lining: 100% Polyester. Rib: 99% Polyester 1% Elastane..
Matalan Price: £8.00 Composition: 100% Viscose.
Matalan Price: £12.00 Composition: Body: 97% Viscose 2% Polyamide 1% Elastane. Yoke 100% Cotton..
Hinge Fatigue Jacket Price: £64.14 Composition: 97% cotton, 3% spandex..
Topshop Price: £49.56 Composition: 65% polyester, 33% viscose, 2% elastane.
Halogen Price: £32.07 Composition: 96% viscose, 4% spandex with 100% polyester contrast.
Matalan Price: £14.00 Composition: 96% Viscose 4% Elastane.
Eliza J Price: £137.02 Composition: 100% polyester.
Directional Shop: Women’s Accessories Designer
Matalan Price: £12 Composition:Shell: PU. Trim : PVC. Lining: 100 % Polyester.
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: SHELL 100% POLYAMIDE WEBBING 100% POLYPROPLENE LINING 100% POLYESTER
Chloe Price: £1015 Composition: smooth calf leather flap
Longchamp Price: £65 Composition: Polyester canvas with PVC backing, leather trim
Matalan Price: £8 Composition: 84% Paper 16% Polyester. Exclusive of Trimmings.
Yosuzi Price: £320 Composition: straw hat
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: Upper: Textile. Lining and Sock: Textile Other. Sole: Other.
Tory Burch Price: £320 Composition: Leather upper, jute heel
Matalan Price: £8 Composition: Upper. Lining Sock Textile. Sole Other..
Valentino Price: £345 Composition: Leather insoles, rubber outsoles
Matalan Price: £6 Composition: 100% METAL .
Thomas Sabo Price: £235 Composition: Blackened sterling silver with engraving and white zirconia pavé, stretch bracelet made of imitation turquoise, white agate and tiger’s eye
Matalan Price: £6 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Gucci Price: £250 Composition: 100% silk
Directional Shop: Womenswear Accessories High Street
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: Shell: 95% Paper Yarn 5% Polyester. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: Shell: PVC. Lining: 100% Polyester
Matalan Price: £8 Composition: 100% Paper.
Straw Studios Price: £34.98 Composition: Straw Studios; imported.
Kate Spade Price: £144.31 Composition: Leather.
Nordstrom Price: £27.70 Composition: Paper straw/polyester.
Matalan Price: £20 Composition: Upper: Textile. Lining And Sock: Other Textile. Sole: Other.
Matalan Price: £8 Composition: Upper Textile; Lining Sock Textile; Sole Other
Matalan Price: £8 Composition: METAL
UGG Australia Price: £109.29 Composition: Textile and leather upper and lining/rubber sole.
Soludos Price: £72.12 Composition: Textile or leather upper/textile lining/synthetic sole.
BaubleBar Price: £49.56 Composition: Acrylic/goldtone plate
Matalan Price: £6 Composition: 100% Viscose
Eileen Fisher Price: £100.58 Composition: 100% silk.
Directional Shop: Menswear Designer
Matalan Price: £59 Composition: 78% Polyester 22% Viscose. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Matalan Price: £14 Composition: 100% Polyester.
Matalan Price: £30 Composition: Shell: 62% Polyester 38% Cotton. Body & Sleeve Lining: 100% Polyester. Rib: 98% Polyester 2% Elastane.
Paul Smith Price: £530 Composition: 100% wool; lining 100% viscose
THAMANYAH Price: £465 Composition: 60% cotton, 40% linen
Burberry London Price: £995 Composition: 100% nylon; 100% lamb leather; lining 100% polyester; 55% acetate, 45% viscose; 100% polyester
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Blackfist Price: £365 Composition: 100% silk
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: 100% Cotton.
Matalan Price: £16 Composition: 97% Cotton 3% Elastane..
Matalan Price: £12 Composition:100% Cotton.
Richard James Price: £275 Composition: 100% cotton
Neil Barrett Price: £315 Composition: 73% cotton, 22% nylon, 3% elastane% cotton
Yohji Yamamoto Price: £1075 Composition: 100% wool
Directional Shop: Menswear High Street
Matalan Price: £45 Composition: 77% Viscose 17% Polyamide 6% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Matalan Price: £16 Composition: 97% Cotton 3% Elastane.
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: 55% Linen 45% Cotton.
Matalan Price: £22 Composition: Shell 100% Cotton Body Lining 65% Polyester 35% Cotton Sleeve Lining 100% Polyester
Matalan Price: £14 Composition: 62% Cotton 38% Polyester. Pocketing: 100% Cotton.
Matalan Price: £16 Composition: 100% Cotton
Topman Price: £116.62 Composition: 84% polyester, 11% viscose, 5% elastane
AG Price: £129.73 Composition:97% cotton, 3% elastane.
1901 Price: £43.37 Composition: 100% cotton.
Calibrate Price: £109.33 Composition: 100% cotton.
Cutter & Buck Price: £58.31 Composition: 100% cotton..
Norse Projects Price: £91.11 Composition: 100% cotton.
Matalan Price: £12 Composition: 100% Cotton
Calibrate Price: £43.37 Composition: 96% cotton, 4% spandex.
Directional Shop Evaluation Through this directional shop I have found in womenswear that designer brands may use similar materials for their fabric composition, but their quality and production methods cause the cost price to be higher, and therefore this in turn increases the retail price. Matalan has shared their trends with seven designers, and I have found items within all the three ranges that Matalan has found influence from. They have chosen the important factors of catwalk trends; shapes, and colour. I believe that through my findings of the directional shop for the three ranges, that Matalan produces simplistic designs, making them more affordable to produce abroad, and more affordable for their consumer. They understand their customer, and understand that they may not be looking to buy high quality items, but do expect to buy pieces that show subtle hints of key trends from the catwalks around the world. The current Matalan range has less detail than designer brands, but high end brands that can be found on the high street that may not be in direct competition with Matalan produce similar simplistic designs as Matalan but invest more in quality. Therefore, the new womenswear range that I introduce will be of a slightly higher quality, that may raise the price slightly to target the 45-55 year old woman who has slightly more disposable income, but not too high so it isolates the younger customer who may want to buy into the Soon range with Cath Kidston. With womenswear accessories at Matalan, it is one of the most successful departments behind Kidswear. During daily team briefings before a shift, all staff (myself included) are informed of the profits of the store, and how much each department is making in profit, as well as bestsellers. The womenswear accessories are more on trend than its womenswear department, as it is the easiest department for both core customers and new customers to buy into. Therefore, looking at the designer brands has helped me understand how closely the Matalan womenswear accessories are in tune with the most expensive pieces available at designer’s such as Valentino, and Balenciaga. Therefore, this range that I as the buyer will bring into the spring/summer 2017 range will be a collaboration with British designer Erdem, who has collaborated with Topshop in the past, and may not be a household name, but could help elevate the Matalan brand name in the retail industry, and show that Matalan is not adverse to dipping their toes into the fashion world. I believe this could introduce fashionable young women to the Matalan brand, through one of the most successful departments that it has currently. Matalan menswear currently, through my field research and knowledge of the department, has become one of the lowest selling departments in-store at Matalan Williamson Square. This directional shop has helped me find out what materials and key shapes designers have used, and how Matalan menswear has interpreted them currently in their spring/summer 2016 range. Their high street competitors have successfully produced, in some instances, designer infused ranges for menswear. They have kept the prices mid-range, and seem to have attracted the younger male customer. Matalan has not done this as of yet, and this is therefore the niche in the market that I will be attempting to build on with the range that I as the buyer will be introducing to Matalan menswear. With the collaboration with Paul Smith, there is an opportunity to produce a more relaxed, and informal, range that will include summer suits and casual clothing that could be worn by young men as well as not isolating the core customer.
Business Plan: Business Summary Matalan is a value brand business that started in Preston in 1985. Matalan has overcome a lot of adversity and struggles throughout it’s existence, with many value retailers popping up throughout the 1990’s and into the 2000’s, Matalan has had to bide its time within the shadows of bigger value retailers such as Primark, New Look, Forever 21, amongst others. Matalan has pushed itself into the spotlight since 2014; with the collaboration with model Abbey Clancy, and her womenswear range, and the business plan to place charity and community
at the forefront of their Christmas campaigns which have both been equally successful. It is my place as the buyer to continue to develop Matalan and bring it out of the shadows and onto the main stage by refreshing one of the sub-brand’s on the women’s department and help in the balance of this department with the young customer that they are trying to bring into the Matalan family, and the core customer that has been loyal for so many years. I also intend to introduce the menswear department to a new younger target market that has been left out of its development of menswear for many years. Unlike the women’s department, there has been less immediacy in saving the menswear department which through my work at Matalan instore I have been told at staff briefings that it is failing to increase its profits. I understand from working in-store, that there is a simple solution, and it is focusing on the niche in the market; the 25-35 year old men. With the women’s accessories department there is less immediacy to develop it, as it is equally profitable along with Matalan children’s wear. Women’s accessories and footwear in Matalan has consistently produced on trend and familiar bestsellers reinvented and improved with their open to buy option that their buyers have used successfully with each season. Over the next five years I hope to improve the balance between young and trendy customers shopping women’s wear, and the core customer between 45 and 55 that has been left behind
since the new ‘Edit’ range has come into place as of 2016. The sub-brands need to be refreshed, and updated, with more creative design, colour, and fabric choices to increase profits and prevent from Matalan becoming stale to it’s loyal core customer and ageing young customer. The menswear department should grow exponentially over the next five years with a move towards attracting a young male target market between the ages of 25 and 35. Menswear already successfully produces consistent bestsellers in every season that is welcomed by the core customer, however, there is no variety to entice new male customers into the store and as a sales assistant in Matalan I have found this to be a problem. Competitors like Dorothy Perkins, Primark, and New Look, are slowly building their customer range by enticing older customers to leave their staple fashion destinations like Matalan with refreshing designs and bright colours. Matalan has an opportunity to keep their core customer happy with more enticing ranges, and developing their weaker sub-brands. Making their subbrands more distinct, and clear for customers to shop, could automatically improve their profit forecasting. The mission statement will not change, it will still be ‘To provide outstanding value for modern families.’ even though there will be higher prices for the Soon sub-brand collaboration, which is the basis of the sub-brand already, there will still be outstanding value for the product that is sold to the customer.
Elevator Pitch The purpose of the three ranges is to introduce a ‘designer collective’ that will bring balance to the Matalan products. For example, recently the ‘Edit’ has been brought into store, online, and advertisements, in order to coincide with the continuing expansion of Matalan high street stores up and down the UK. Attaching a small sub-brand such as Soon to a recognisable brand name, Cath Kidston, will help appeal to both the core target market of 45-55 year old women with the design, pattern, and theme, but also the young customer who may like the Cath Kidston aesthetic of kitsch and vintage style. Matalan’s menswear department has focused on the core customer for a long time with each
season, therefore the business strategy of introducing Paul Smith, a well known and respected international menswear designer and successful franchisee, to the department could revitalise a waning young customer and attract a key target market of 25-35 year olds, whilst still providing acceptable options for the older core customer. With the womenswear accessories department, introducing a designer brand could continue to build on the continuous success that the womenswear footwear and accessories continues to have on a daily basis in store. Erdem is a young designer brand, and has previously collaborated with another high street store, Topshop. I believe this would help build on the strengths of the department, and continue it’s trend focused development.
The price points will stay in line with the rest of the products that Matalan sell on each department, and will hopefully blend successfully into the other department and sub-brand ranges for spring/summer 2017.
Business Plan: Short term, Mid term, Long term goals. Womenswear Short Term Goals: Expand the ‘Soon’ sub-brand, and refresh the products targeted at the 45-55 ‘core’ customer.
Mid Term Goals: Extend brand awareness of Matalan around the UK. Refresh the sub-brand ranges with further collaborations.
Long Term Goals: Equal the growth, and stature, of other sub-brand and department store retailers like NEXT, internationally.
Mid Term Goals: Continue to collaborate with different up and coming designers that will help increase profits, and interest, in the footwear and accessories department.
Long Term Goals: Become one of the leading accessories and footwear departments amongst high street giants like River Island and Primark.
Mid Term Goals: Refresh the menswear department with more trend focused ranges included in ‘The Edit’ seasonally.
Long Term Goals: Bring in further collaborations now and again, to increase awareness of Matalan and also interest from fashion magazines for promotional purposes.
Womenswear Accessories
Short Term Goals: Bring in a new 18-25 customer, and continue to build on the core customer with familiar bestsellers.
Menswear Short Term Goals: Target the niche market of 25-35 year old men; bring in a new customer and increase profits.
Business Plan: Short term, Mid term, Long term goals. Critical Analysis The short term goals for the Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan range will be to continue the expansion of the ‘Soon’ brand. ‘Soon’ is a sub-brand within the Matalan brand. It has an aim to bring elegance to womenswear, for a particular customer. It has a lot of ranges that evoke
a sense of glamour, and evening wear. However, I believe this prevents this brand from achieving it’s potential within Matalan. The Cath Kidston collaboration does not lose focus on the ideal customer for ‘Soon’, it is about brining that customer into the brand and not only buying an outfit for a special occasion but also buying an outfit for a day out, or a holiday. It is providing a collaboration that is unique from the Matalan womenswear ranges, and also unique compared to the competitors of Matalan and what they have to offer. The core customer, and the younger trend orientated customer, have been at odds within the Matalan brand and the Matalan identity. For instance, Matalan have introduced a new ‘Edit’ range for all departments within Matalan, and this is primarily focused on brining in a younger customer who is aware of trends and it is a range that has been created to compete with the likes of New Look, River Island, and Primark. ‘Soon’ is not all trend focused in it’s identity, it targets the ‘core’ Matalan customer within the age of 45-55. The 45-55 target customer has been overlooked within the Matalan business plan that they currently have. I have worked for Matalan for two year on the shop floor, and before the recent launch of the new ‘Edit’ range across all departments, the store manager at the Liverpool Williamson Square store spoke about how the Matalan brand was trying to keep the ‘core’ customer as well as bring in the younger customer. However, I believe this has worked in bringing in a younger customer but I do not believe the ‘core’ customer has been targeted. This range that I as the buyer intend to bring to Matalan intends to refresh the ‘core’ customer, and give them something different a new, that they could possibly like, and at the same time it could appeal to the younger customer also.
The mid-term goals for the Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan range are to extend the brand awareness of Matalan around the UK through implementation of marketing strategies that fit with this range, but also make the UK more aware of Matalan as a brand overall; similar to the likes of Marks and Spencer, and NEXT, which are both heavy-weights in the retailing business for their use of franchising, sub-brands, and marketing strategies. It is important that Matalan build on their sub-brands, so they can develop further as a retailer, and become bigger with further collaborations with big name designers and franchises to continue to build the Matalan name within the retail industry and continue to grow the Matalan name throughout the UK and abroad. Long term goals for the Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan include rivalling the bigger retail companies that have successfully outgrown the UK, and have also developed an image for themselves within the UK for different options within each department, different customer profiles, and good quality clothing. Matalan could be the first value retailer to achieve a feat similar to Marks and Spencer and NEXT, by expanding globally with the help of collaborations with names like Cath Kidston, who are well known in China and abroad for their patterns and kitsch appeal. The womenswear accessories range in collaboration with Erdem has a short term goal, where the department and Erdem collaboration range will continue to build on the trend focused ranges that Matalan currently produce for all seasons. Unlike the womenswear department, there is a balance between courting the younger customer and also satisfying the ‘core’ customer. This is done with producing bestsellers throughout every season, but changing them ever so slightly with a new zipper, on trend colour/pattern or design that is a customer bestseller consistently; such as a scarf, sunglasses, and bag. It is important to balance the range for both the younger customer, which this range is targeted at, and the ‘core’ customer that is older might appreciate the scarfs and flip flops. The mid term goals for the womenswear accessories range in collaboration with Erdem will be to continue to build on the young trend focused customer, as well as the ‘core’ customer, and continue to seek out opportunities for further collaborations in the future. The Abbey Clancy range that included accessories was very popular when it began in 2014, and even though it is discontinued, the collaboration is still asked about by customers in-store. This primary research has helped me understand that there is a niche in the market for a range similar to the Erdem collaboration, and it could be well received, and it could continue to development of the Matalan brand. The long term goal for the Erdem and Matalan Accessories range includes becoming one of the leading Footwear and Accessories departments amongst Matalan’s top competitors like River Island, Primark, and New Look. Matalan Liverpool Williamson Square’s Footwear and Accessories department is consistently one of the top profitable departments in the store, and this is relayed to us during our shift briefings every day in work. It is important to keep this level of consistency within the department, and to focus energy on bettering the department in regards to the competitors and trend forecasting accurately before every seasons and using the OTB option whenever possible. The Paul Smith and Menswear collaboration at Matalan has a short term goal of targeting the niche market of 25-35, which has been neglected as of late. I have worked in store and have been told by the management team on a daily basis that it is one of the lowest performing departments, and I can see where there could be a problem. Unlike with Women’s Accessories, where there is a balance between the young customer and the ‘core’ customer, this department has no balance as of yet. This Paul Smith collaboration will help bring in a younger customer, and also a customer who may not have visited a Matalan before. However, because of the name that is attached to the range it increases intrigue. Not only will the range include items that are bestsellers in Menswear, but it will have a variety that can give more options to the ‘core’ customer and the younger customer that this range is target towards. The mid term goal for Menswear is to continue to refresh the ranges that are being produced, so that the customer does not get bored with what is presented to them at the beginning of each season. It is important that the Matalan Menswear department is seen as a competitor to equally big retailers such as Burton, and Topman. There will be a continuation of ‘core’ focused products, and best sellers, but there should also be an inclusion of trend orientated products which is what this range intends to add to the current Matalan Menswear department. The long term goal for this Menswear range is to keep bringing in new collaborations to the department, and improve the marketing side of the Menswear department, in regards to increasing press awareness of the new and upcoming collaborations that Menswear might have and creating an equal amount of ‘buzz’ for the Menswear range that Womenswear has currently.
Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan Womenswear Customer Profile
Natalie has just turned 50 years old this year. She works part time at a garden centre, and loves the discount on potted plants for her own garden. She shares a love of nature with her partner of twenty years, and they frequently travel in their camper van up and down the country. In the summertime, they will bring their daughter and the grandchildren with them. The little ones love to help their Nan sew the family quilt, with fabric from different haberdasheries and small fabric shops. Her favourite thing to do is go to the local pub, have a few drinks, and then go home and catch up on her favourite soaps. She loves buying good quality clothes, that are comfortable and she can wear for a long time.
Matalan Womenswear ‘Soon’ Mood
Concept Board: Women’s range with Cath Kidston Collaboration with Soon at Matalan S/S ‘17
Customer Profile:
• • • • •
45-55 years of age Core Customer Seeks out good quality clothing Cares about comfort over trends Children have flown the nest, more time for her and her husband/partner • Cares about the community • Retired or works part-time
Kimono Blouse RRP: £16.00 Cost Price: £12.80 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Viscose Cargo Jacket RRP: £30.00 Cost Price: £24 COO: Romania Composition: 100% Polyester Mac RRP: £30.00 Cost Price: £24 COO: China Composition: 100% Polyester Jersey Top RRP: £4.00 Cost Price: £3.20 COO: Sri Lanka Composition: 100% Cotton
Trench Coat RRP: £40.00 Cost Price: £32 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Viscose
Shirt Dress RRP: £25.00 Cost Price: £20 COO: Sri Lanka Composition: 100% Cotton
Knit Dress RRP: £26.00 Cost Price: £20.80 COO: Romania Composition: 100% Cotton
Chino RRP: £20.00 Cost Price: £16 COO: Romania Composition: 100% Cotton
Elasticated Midi Skirt RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: Romania Composition: 100% Jersey Peplum Blouse RRP: £16.00 Cost Price: £12.80 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Viscose
Batwing Cardigan RRP: £20.00 Cost Price: 16.00 COO: Sri Lanka Composition: 100% Jersey Cotton Drawstring Trouser RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Lycocell
Womenswear ‘Soon’ Written Range Plan The Cath Kidston for Soon, a sub-brand within Matalan, came from the research that I undertook of the womenswear within Matalan, and how I found prints, patterns, and colour, were used throughout the Soon range. To enhance the sub-brand I felt that I would bring in a collaboration with a well known UK brand in order to increase profits, and to also highlight the importance of the ‘core’ Matalan customer who may have been overlooked with the introduction of a younger, more trend focused, ‘Edit’ line that is now across all departments within Matalan.
This range has three jackets/coats, five different blouses, six jersey t-shirts, four pieces of knitwear; including two knitwear dresses and two batwing cardigans, three skirts, and five trousers. I did not include any accessories in this range as I created a separate footwear and accessories range for Matalan’s Footwear department. Also, Cath Kidston already has a successful accessories range and I thought as the buyer for this range I did not want to prevent a clash between Cath Kidston and Matalan during the negotiation of this range where they could lose profits if Matalan produced a similar Cath Kidston accessories range with a lower price value. All together there are 27 pieces to this range, which I believe it sufficient for a sub-brand within the Matalan brand infrastructure, since my field research highlighted that Soon does not have the same amount of floor space that the rest of womenswear has in each store grade. The proportions of each garment fit the standard sizing that Matalan offers, this is to prevent excess costs, and also keeps the lead times to a minimum as there is no need to research and negotiate with different suppliers in order to create a higher quality product, or a product that requires different design specifications. The fabrics offered in each style include Polyester, Viscose, Jersey, Cotton, and Lyocell. What I have noticed through researching the care labels from different garments in Matalan womenswear, was there was an increase use of the fabric Lyocell. Lyocell is a more sustainable fabric, and can be mixed with different raw materials such as cotton, to produce various styles of denim. I have found across the childrenswear and womenswear lines there is more inclusion of Lyocell, due to it possibly reducing costs and also producing more modern styles that competitors may have had the upper hand in including in their ranges due to their budgets maybe being slightly higher because they may not be a value retailer. The other fabrics were chosen as they are currently used within the Matalan womenswear range, and with viscose in particular it evokes similarities to silk which is a more expensive fabric to source. Viscose may be cheaper, but it does not have the same longevity as silk.
This range is targeted at the ‘core’ Matalan customer who is between the ages of 45 and 55. As the buyer for Matalan I kept this target market in mind as I conducted my trend forecasting, and felt that the use of patterns and colours, could be a good contrast with the more simplistic and conservative designs that may be more fitting to the ‘core’ Matalan customer. The colour ways that each style has are diverse; with the jersey t-shirt component offering more colours, as this could be the cheapest to produce in bulk quantity, as this particular design is already a staple within Matalan womenswear. The other products have different patterns for their colourways, and the same colour pallet that I sourced from WGSN has been used to compound the ‘Edgelands’ trend that I researched on WGSN and through Pinterest when I devised the concept board. The item with the cheapest cost price is the jersey top at £3.20, and the highest cost price is the trench coat at £32. The cost price is line with the current price point of the Soon range, and could be seen as slightly higher than other lines within Matalan’s womenswear department, but this is due to the inclusion of Cath Kidston who has high price points in their lines. Therefore this could help in the cost of franchising the name of the brand, and also securing the copyright for each pattern that will be used. The highest RRP is the trench coat at £40, and the lowest is the jersey tops at £4.00. The RRP through the range could be seen as fair for the customer, and fair the companies profit projection for the range. I felt as the buyer of this range in particular that there could be enough reasons to have slightly higher price points, but not too extortionate where it would turn away the core customer, and any customer that may want to buy from this range in particular. I believe I have found a balance within this range in regards to the RRP. The sizes available for each product are in line with the sizes already available within the womenswear main line, excluding the Rogers & Rogers line. The sizes start from size 8, and go up to a size 20. Although some products within womenswear in Matalan go up to a size 22, I felt that this may be an added excess on costs that may not effect the overall profitability of the range for omitting that size. The places of manufacture vary, but through the creation of a map on Photoshop I have been able to visualise where the orders would be shipped from, and found that the country of origin with each product came from the same area on the map, if you exclude distance and separation by land and sea. The countries that this range will source from include Romania, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and China. The countries were chosen due to the research that I undertook and found that these countries were used consistently throughout the womenswear department. I was particularly interested in Romania, and conducted a specific case study on the country in regards to its industrial development, and countries like the UK using Romania for their bulk garment manufacturing. I found that this country was filled with highly skilled workers, and had fortitude as a country to produce bulk garments at an equally quick rate with countries like India, and Sri Lanka. Not only would the lead times be shortened due to the location of Romania to the UK but also its infrastructure and EU membership makes it a business savvy country to source from in regards to design, industry production, and engineering. Concerning the order quantities per style within the range, I estimated using guidelines regarding what were last spring/summer’s best sellers, and basing the sales per week on that information; for instance the dusty rose jersey top had an estimated 1,920 sales per week over a sixteen week period. This was the highest amongst the jersey top colourways due to my belief that dusty rose would be a top selling colourway in this garment due to it being one of the top sellers in the previous spring/summer season, and this information I found from working in store and noticing customer behaviour when working on womenswear and also as a cashier on the tills. In contrast, the lowest quantities for the jersey top style, that I believe would sell less over sixteen weeks was the berry red colourway which I projected would sell 1,120 over the sixteen week period. This is because I believe this colour is unusally dark for the spring/summer 2017 range, but it could be a colour that can be worn through all seasons depending on the occasion that a customer may have or an outfit they have in mind for a holiday etc. Within retailer, there are sometimes transitional colours that can counteract any abnormal changes in weather that could affect customer footfall into store or customer traffic on the online store. UK weather is interchangeable over the summer months, so there may need to be an inclusion of coats, jackets, and different colours, to prevent the ranges from appearing stale to customers looking for something more fitting for the changes in temperature or seasons. I found that within the competitive shop that I conducted for this range sourcing from, H&M, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy Perkins, and New Look, and comparing each of them to the current Matalan spring/summer 2016 line was that there was an influx of bold floral prints, but also a cooler colour pallet. I found that style of dresses and tops to be similar in simplicity with Matalan’s current range, despite each retailer having a target market that may not be the same. From this directional shop I became aware of the idea for the Soon range, and then I conducted the Directional Shop after conducting trend forecasting, and understood the style that I wanted the range to emulate, and also how the target market would affect that in regards to dress length, colour, embellishment, etc. Soon is a more sophisticated and elegant sub-brand, and therefore the style had to reflect that; therefore the hem line would need to be lower, and the practicality of each garment had to be a requirement; waterproof coats, jackets, drawstring waists, pockets, comfortable shapes in regards to the blouses and dresses. However, as the buyer I also had to be weary as to not isolate younger customers who may be a fan of Cath Kidston and want to buy from the range, therefore the prints were important and could help the dresses appear more versatile and wearable to the younger Matalan demographic, since prints were seen on the catwalk and the influence of the seventies is still apparent and consistent with each season. As the buyer for this range I felt that it was important to include a key piece that would be slightly higher in price, but would provide an overall feel for the range in regards to colour, use of print, and style. The trench coat is the key piece because I believe it embodies the concept of tradition, English countryside, and
practicality. Throughout this range I felt it was important for the pricing structure would be visibly different between each product, so that the customer could build an outfit within a budget, which is not too dissimilar for the current price architecture that Matalan has in-store currently. The profit margin for each garment is around 73%, which is a healthy profit range for a value retailer such as Matalan. The products would be placed in store according to the visual merchandising guide that I have produced, with the building block for an outfit, such as the trousers and the tops on fixtures on the floor, and the dresses placed on the wall. The wall end will feature the key piece of the trench coat, and hopefully draw the customer into the Soon section of each Matalan store. £2,251,258.51 is the proposed cost of the range, and this is an estimate based on the financial spreadsheet that I have produced. The cost of this range is low, and in accordance with the Matalan brand; it is a value range, and the low cost allows for a higher chance of profits, and opportunities to produce a similar range like this in the future. It also could help in the market strategies, and promotion of this range.
Financial Spreadsheet: Womenswear
Financial Spreadsheet Analysis: Women’s. The Cath Kidston collaboration with Soon at Matalan consists of 31 products throughout the range. The financial spreadsheet for womenswear shows that I have used my knowledge of the Matalan brand to produce a realistic expectation for how many products would sell per week. I have estimated that the lowest number of products sold per week would be the berry jersey top at 70 items of that product sold per week. I have deduced that the jersey basics would sell less due to the jersey essential range selling these items permanently throughout the year. What would make this different in this range is the colours are derived from the Cath Kidston patterns and the trend forecasting for spring/summer 2017 from WGSN, Pinterest, and Premiere Vision trade show in New York. As the buyer for this Matalan range I have also taken into consideration the sub-brand that I have chosen; Soon is a sub-brand within the Matalan brand. It is a smaller range, and is concentrated differently in different stores depending on the size of the unit of the store. As the buyer I have also chosen focused sourcing for the range, with countries such as Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, China, and Romania being used to produce the range. The use of focused sourcing is important to diverse the cost of the lead times, and to prevent any disruptions to the lead times and the critical path. I have also taken into consideration the different countries that produce the products within Matalan, as I have read the wash care labels whilst I have worked at Matalan and found that there are many different countries that Matalan use for reasons that could be due to cost of shipping, and different countries specialising in different production methods; Asia for colour, and Eastern Europe for technical design specifications. The lowest cost price is £1.06 for the jersey tops that are included in the range, and the most expensive cost price is £8.00 for the Mac and the two colour ways, and the Cargo Jacket and the two colour ways. This is because they must be able to withstand inclimate weather, including intense heat and heavy rain. Therefore it would need a specialist production method, and more quality control checks than other products in the range. The profit margin on average within the range is 73%. This is a healthy profit margin, and can help the range increase it’s profits through the 16 week selling period, due to the different in production cost and retail selling price. The replenishment is high amongst the range, with the highest replenishment estimate being 16800 for the Cargo Jacket, as when I visited Matalan head office they told the group that last season there was an increase in demand for coats due to the changing weather in the UK, but they did not have enough to decrease the demand. Therefore there was a scarcity of coats and jackets, and the company lost profits. Therefore I felt that as the buyer for the Soon at Matalan range spring/summer 2017, that it was important to include a coat and a jacket option, and be mindful that there could be an increase in demand for spring/summer 2017 and every grade of store would need to be able to have full availability of coats and jackets to prevent them losing profits over the spring/summer season. The total cost price overall I estimated at £2,252,558.51 and the total RRP price overall I estimated at £8,448,463.00; This information has informed me that the price point of each product was reasonable for the customer, and the cost price could be in line with what Matalan currently expect within their buying department. It is important for a value retailer like Matalan to keep costs low, and yet still provide good quality to their customer. This is carried out through focused sourcing, negotiating the right price for production and for shipping costs. The profit from this range I have estimated at £6,196,904.49. This will help in the future budget of other ranges within womenswear, and also aid in the amount of money that could be used for the marketing and promotional materials for the Cath Kidston for Soon at Matalan range. There would be an option for open to buy, in case the buying team missed out on any key trends for the spring/summer 2017 season. This would be 30% of the profits, £1,859,071.35, leaving £4,337,833.14 available for other costs that may occur during the production or marketing of this range.
WSSI Womenswear
WSSI Womenswear Analysis For this Weekly Stock Stock Intake data table I used the blue floral Mac from the Cath Kidston for Soon at Matalan range. I chose this product because after speaking with Melissa Hughes at the Matalan pitch she spoke about how they have recently conducted research about their customer behaviour, and found that their customer buys coats and jackets throughout the spring/summer seasons; this could be due to the ever changing weather in the UK, and also because of the increase in their customer going for days out within the UK as opposed to going somewhere hotter. This information that Mellissa gave us is compounded by my experience working in store, and I personally have seen customers asking for coats and jackets throughout the spring/summer seasons. In particular, within the Williamson Square store where I work, I have witnessed the womenswear department struggling during the spring/summer 2015 season as they did not have enough coats to sell. When stock cover was ordered, it was too late, as many customers had found what they needed from competitor high street stores. Therefore, this WSSI is important from a merchandisers point of view, to understand the different external and internal factors that could affect the sales performance of a product. In the case of the Cath Kidston Mac, there are different events that must be taken into account. The starting allocation was 16533 . One of the events is the Grand National weekend. It may be over-reaching, but I believe that this event would require a thin coat, one that can be packed away. The Mac from this range has a floral print, it could be worn over a fanciful day time or evening dress without detracting from the overall look of the outfit due to its feminine features. The Grand National would take place in April, a month that is neither hot or cold, the weather is unpredictable. In this WSSI I found that this product would need an extra
600 stock cover before the launch of the spring/summer mailer, as this would bring the product to more people as the range was launched nationally with a lot of press and marketing. In line with the launch of the new mailer, there was a storm predicted over the UK. Therefore this was a chance of luck for me as the merchandiser that I had allocated an extra 600 Mac’s across the company, to support an increase in spending on coats and jackets. The Mac sold out in line with the 16 week selling period, and sold well throughout the spring and summer sales. This would most likely not happen in a realistic setting, but it has helped for foresee how events can affect the longevity of the clothing that I as the buyer believed would be successful. If the product was not as successful, and there was still stock still left over, I would suggest that the product was transferred to
another store where there was fundamental proof it would sell quicker, and if that did not sell after being transferred it may have to be transferred to a charity where it would be sent overseas or to homeless shelters. The next WSSI I used was for the powder blue floral midi skirt, with elasticated waist. This product is one of the less commercial within the range, due to the fact it is brighter and includes a more distinctive pattern. The starting number for this was 11033, and I took into account different events that could affect how much of the product would be sold. As the buyer, I chose this skirt because I believed it would be suitable for the target customer, and the season. However, as the 16 week selling period has progressed it seems that I missed the mark, and the product has not sold well. This could be down to the predicted storm between week 5 and 6, but also the fact that the launch of the spring/summer 2017 mailer did not cause the skirt to be as big of an impact as I initially thought as I built the range as the buyer for this sub-brand. During both spring sales and summer sales, the most units that were sold were between 555 and 625. This left the company with 5346 units of the midi skirt. This could be seen as a disaster from the perspective of the buyer, and a great loss in profit that I have calculated at ÂŁ25,660.80 when I times that amount left over by the cost price of the product. The methods I could use to prevent this from occurring again when the buying team builds the next range, is to conduct more thorough customer behaviour research, and find out why they did not buy this product. Also, future trend forecasting could be more intense, and more focused. Another prevention method could be pushing the product that may not be selling so well, to the front of each store. Making the product stand out, and getting celebrities like Abbey Clancy to wear the product in the media, could increase its exposure and thus increase the profit projection.
Paul Smith for Matalan Menswear Customer Profile
25-35
Andrew is 28 years old, and loves to watch the football with his friends as the pub. He works full time in a call centre, and loves to go on holidays with his friends to Zante for the night life. His favourite football team is Liverpool FC, and he loves to read about sports history with player autobiographies, and watching sports films. He cares about his appearance and is aware of brand names, and loves to look better than his friends when
he goes on a night out. He does not spend a lot of money on expensive luxury clothing labels, so wants to look good on a budget. His favourite television show is ‘The Inbetweeners’, and loves a comedy film.
Matalan Menswear Mood
Concept Board: Men’s range with Paul Smith Collaboration with Matalan Menswear
Customer Profile:
• • • • • • •
25-35 years of age New Customer Wants something that is fun, sporty, and comfortable Emulates footballers, and other athlethes Has a girlfriend of a few years, comfortable home life Likes to play football with his friends in the park Works full time
Polo Shirt RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Cotton
Graphic Vest RRP: £8.00 Cost Price: £6.40 COO: Turkey Composition: 100% Cotton
Short Suit RRP: £65.00 Cost Price: £52.00 COO: Romania Composition: 70% Polyester 29% Viscose 1% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Casual Suit RRP: £65.00 Cost Price: £52.00 COO: Romania Composition:70% Polyester 29% Viscose 1% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Formal Suit RRP: £75.00 Cost Price: £60.00 COO: Romania Composition: 70% Polyester 29% Viscose 1% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Utility Trouser RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: Turkey Composition: Shell: 75% Cotton 25% Polyamide. Pocketing: 100% Cotton. Belt: 100% polyester.
Blazer RRP: £55.00 Cost Price: £44.00 COO: Romania Composition:70% Polyester 29% Viscose 1% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Utility Blazer RRP: £55.00 Cost Price: £44.00 COO: Romania Composition:70% Polyester 29% Viscose 1% Elastane. Lining: 100% Polyester.
Collarless Shirt RRP: £22.00 Cost Price: £17.60 COO: Turkey Composition: 80% Cotton, 20% Polyester
Chino RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: Turkey Composition: 95% Cotton, 5% Elastane
Trainer RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: China Composition: Upper: Textile. Lining & Sock: Textile. Sole: Other.
Shorts RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Cotton
T-Shirt RRP: £10.00 Cost Price: £8.00 COO: Bangladesh Composition: 100% Cotton
Sandal RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: China Composition: Upper: Leather. Lining and Sock: Leather Textile. Sole: Other
Travel Bag RRP: £30.00 Cost Price: £24 COO: China Composition: 100% Polyurethane
Menswear, Paul Smith Collaboration, Written Range Plan The Paul Smith collaboration with Matalan menswear has 26 garments included in the range. The components that build this range include: three polo shirts, three vest tops, two t-shirts, three suits, two trousers, two jackets, three shirts, two short, three chino trousers, one pair of trainers, one pair of sandals and one travel bag. The proportion of each garment is similar to the size specification that Matalan already has for their menswear garments, for example the suits will come in short, regular, and long, and the waistband size will be between 32 and 38. The neck size of the shirts will range from 15 to 18 inches, with a regular fit. The shoe size will be between size 6 and size 12. The garment styles range from casual summer staples, such as the t-shirts, polo shirts, and vest tops, to more formal outfits that have an informal design; such as the short suit, casual suit with drawstring waistband and the cobalt blue suit. The suits were chosen as Paul Smith is infamous for his suit designs, and his reinvention of the formal suit in the 1970’s, where it could be worn in the day time and not just for special occasions. The inclusion of the casual outfits was to reinvigorate the core customer, who has a lot of options currently in menswear, but adding a twist with the pattern trim, lining, and colourways. The style of the garments will hopefully continue to bring in the core customer, but also bring in the intended target market for this range which is a man between the age of 25 and 35. There are different colour ways offered within this range; the polo shirts, vest tops, shirts, and chino’s have three different colourways each. The suits do not have any colourways, and the shorts and the t-shirts have two colourways. The fabric choices were chosen because of the research that I conducted into the fabrics that Matalan currently include in their menswear lines. The fabrics I chose were viscose, polyester, cotton, elastane, polyamide, and polyurethane. The fabrics are mostly synthetic making them more cost effective for the company, but this also reduces the quality of the product. It could be a concern if the products are returned more frequently, and a loss of profit for a value retailer might have to be expected due to the fast production times and choice of materials. The lowest cost price in the range is the graphic vest tops that I have estimated will cost £6.40 to produce, this could make this product easier and cheaper to replenish than other garments in the range, and therefore there may be a marketing strategy implemented in store to push the product and therefore increase profits in the short term if the range does not sell well initially. The most expensive cost price in the range is the formal suit which costs £60 to manufacture. The line of suits within this range are not separated, they are sold as one garment. This could prove to be difficult when sold to customers, and this could effect the profit margin of this product in particular because of its low price. However, if it is a successful product it may cost the company more to replenish due to its high cost value. The formal suit, and the graphic vest tops, are also the highest RRP in the range. However, in the visual merchandising guide that I have produced I have effectively price blocked the menswear department floor plan, allowing customers to build outfits with the low pricing of each garment in the range, compared to Matalan’s competitors. It is important that I as the buyer for this range do not over price the garments in this range, as this could deter the customer from buying into this range. Since the quality is similar to the current quality of the range, in my opinion I believe there was not a need to increase prices of the garments. Therefore the customer is protected, and there is an incentive for customers to come in to see the Paul Smith range, and see that they can wear a designer label for a better value than is provided by their branded competitors. The places of manufacture vary from China, Turkey, Bangladesh and Romania. This is similar to the countries of origin in the womenswear range, and it makes it easier for the garments to be shipped and this will ease stress on the critical path and the lead times. I created a visual map so it is easier for me as the buyer to find the route that each shipment would take from their country of origin to the Matalan distribution centre. Out of the suits that are in the range, I have estimated that the best seller from those suits would be the formal suit. I have estimated that it could sell 7,200 a week across all store grades. The reasoning behind this estimate is the fact that there are a significant amount of events that men go to, especially the target market that this range is aimed at, including Aintree Grand National, Weddings, Communions, etc. Those events have helped me estimate what could sell well amongst the suits. Other garments that have a high order quantity include the navy chino’s, which have a total quantity plus replenishment of 14,979. This is because I believe the colour would be a more versatile and accessible colour for both the Matalan core customer, and the target market customer that this range is aimed at; 25-35 year old men.
The competitive shop that I undertook as the buyer for this range were Burton, Topman, River Island, and New Look. I looked at the suits that they sold, and also the styles of their products from their current spring/summer 2016 ranges. I found their colour pallet to be neutral, with hints of colour in patterns, and more contemporary suit designs that I did not expect to see; especially when I compared these suits to the line of suits that Matalan currently sell in their menswear range this season. This made me decide to focus on a younger aesthetic for the Paul Smith range, and provide a style that was not dissimilar from Matalan’s competitors, but could refresh a menswear department that seemed to be aimed at an older customer which I thought was in juxtaposition with the modernising movement that can be seen on womenswear in Matalan, with the introduction of the trend focused ‘Edit’ range. Therefore I decided to build a more youthful range after completing the competitive shop. The directional shop helped me as the buyer devise a plan of action for what colours I could use, the patterns, and the overall aesthetic of the range. The designer directional shop showed me the different takes on classical menswear pieces, like the chino, and the suit. I used this information to understand what compositions I could use, and what patterns could be used throughout the range. The trend that I decided to base the concept for this range on was the Digital Wave, from WGSN. I found that this trend was youthful, and could be manipulated to be inclusive of both the core customer and the target customer with the use of colour, pattern, and 1980’s design. The pricing architecture of this range is similar to what the price points of similar garments on Matalan’s menswear department currently. I felt like this could make it easier for the core customer to buy into the range, and also build an outfit and increase the money spent within the
department. Moreover, the pricing of the suits is combined to include both the jacket and the trousers. This could make it easier for the customer to purchase a suit, as opposed to a wide array of separate options that could confuse the customer and alter their customer behaviour when shopping in store and online. The average profit margin across the range is around 73%, which is a healthy profit margin for a value retailer like Matalan. It also helps me to understand that the price points of each garment could be seen as fair for the customer. I have created a visual merchandising guide for this range, with specific details as to where each garment should be placed in line with customer flow and price blocking. This could make it easier for a customer to buy into the range, and build an outfit, or just buy a few key pieces such as the casual tops. The range will be displayed in each store grade, and could be condensed depending on the size of the department in each store. The total cost price for this range is estimated at £2,067,569,35. The total RRP for this range is estimated at £7,297,088,00. This gives the range an estimated £5,229,518,65. This could help project how much money could be placed into the marketing strategies that I the buyer have implemented for the promotion of this range, and also could help in the production of future collaboration ranges in menswear.
Financial Spreadsheet: Menswear
Financial Spreadsheet Analysis: Menswear The Paul Smith collaboration with Menswear includes 26 products within the range. The first slice of information that I will talk about is the lowest cost price for an item within the range, this stands at £2.13 for each of the three Graphic Vest Tops, the Graphic Vest Tops will be sold to customers for £8. This produces a healthy profit margin of 73.37%. I believe that this could be the best seller for this range, as many young men whom the range targets (between 25 and 35) will buy into the range with this design due to the versatility of the vest top, as it can be worn on holiday and also in the back garden when playing with their children, or their friends. The blue formal suit has a cost price of £20, and a retail price of
£75. This is one of three suits that are part of this range. I felt it was important to curate a more casual range as opposed to a solely formal suit range; this is because I believe that for the target market of 25-35 that this range is aimed at, they would be more open to buying casual clothing for festivals, family holiday’s and summer days in the garden than suits that may be too warm, too formal, and could deter the target customer from shopping the range. The main countries that I have chosen to manufacture and produce the range are: Bangladesh, Romania, Turkey, and China. This is because of the abilities within each country to produce a range as technically difficult as this, and the important connections Matalan already has with factories within these countries already. Therefore it would keep the costs down, and not lose the quality. It is important that the critical path is not affected, and therefore the lead times must be consistent throughout the range. Thus keeping contracts with factories Matalan already use for this range is vital. Throughout the range the margin is 73%, this is healthy, and shows that I have considered the current Matalan method of production and price points, so I do not alienate the core customer currently, but also do not ignore the new customer that I want to bring in to the department and the company. The highest replenishment number over a 16 week period is 2479 for the grey Utility Trouser. This is because I believe this may be one of the best sellers from the range, as it is similar to what is currently sold in-store, but it is targeted towards
a younger customer between the ages of 25 and 35. The colourways available are grey, and green. I believe grey may be the bigger seller because it can be worn all year round and by any customer no matter their style preference. The menswear financial spreadsheet for the collaboration with Paul Smith has helped me estimate the overall cost of the range, and the overall RRP of the range. This has allowed me as the buyer to find out the projected profit of the entire range over a 16 week selling period starting from 26/03/2017. The total overall cost of the range is estimated at £2,067,569.35 and the total overall RRP price of this range is estimated at £7,297,088.00. This helps me calculate the estimated profit for this range, which could be £5,229,518.65. This is a healthy profit projection, and could help in the future development of brand collaborations with menswear, and the marketing and promotional materials for this range. In case there are any trends that the buying team has missed, there will be an introducing of an open to buy option, this would be 30% of the profits; £1,568,855.60. This would leave, £3,660,663.05 for marketing and other costs that may arise.
WSSI Menswear
500
WSSI Menswear Analysis The WSSI will help me as the buyer for menswear to find out what products have sold well, and understand any external or internal events that may have hindered the profitability of a certain product. For this WSSI I have chosen to focus on two products. The first product is the casual suit, with a drawstring waist band. I chose this because in the financial spreadsheet that I produced it was one of the products that had the lowest sales per week, over the 16 week period, including the replenishment number. As this suit would be different to the other suits that Matalan offer, I believe it would be important to note how well it could perform with the adverse effects of difficult circumstances such as the Grand National, the launch of the Mailer, and the two sales that occur during the spring/summer months. The first week it did not perform well, which is a realistic expectation for a new product, under the umbrella of a new collaboration for the Matalan company. However, the week of the Grand National the sales picked up, and the week after the Grand National there was a jump in sales. This could be because people wore this outfit due to its versatility and comfort over the more formal and darker suits that are available. The week of the Mailer launch sales increased to 726 across all stores. This shows the power of marketing, and the importance of promoting a product successfully to the right consumer. The adverse weather did not affect the actual sales tally in contrast to what I, the merchandiser, forecast for the weeks of 5 and 6. It may seem unusual to ask for an increase of 500 units for stock cover, but I suspected that the spring sale and the major summer sale would increase customer flow in the store and therefore sales would increase for suits that already have a low RRP compared to the competitors that I used in the competitive shop, therefore a further reduction could increase sales. During week 11, the sales increased to 565 at the tail end of the small spring sale. Therefore I believe the choice to add an extra amount of units as stock cover may have been the correct decision in retrospect. The summer season sale also increased sales to a high of 752. This was the peak of sales before the last stock was sold during the tail end of the summer sales. It is not advantageous for a product to be sold at such a dramatic markdown, however there is a relief as a merchandiser and a buyer when all the stock for an item is sold as it does not cost the company more money to transfer, or move, to other stores or transfer the products to charities across the UK. It may have reduced the profits for this product by 80%, but the profit margin to begin with was healthy at 73% and therefore there may have not be as much profit loss as first thought. The second product that I chose to complete a WSSI of was the Graphic Vest in red and multi print. As I was building this range I thought this could be one of the best sellers for this range. It hit the target market, and could also be bought by the core customer who is going on holiday, or wants to tan in their back garden. Due to the in-climate weather that the UK has during the spring/summer months, there was not a lot of customers visiting the store and looking at the new range. The Graphic Vest was not suitable for an event like the Grand National, and therefore it’s sales per week did not pick up until week 10 when the spring sale started. That week it sold 650 units, and then in week 11 it reached a peak of 925 units sold. However, the lowest amount of units sold during the 16 week period was in week 7; the Graphic Vest sold 89 that week across all stores. This could be due to the storm that was predicted over the UK, and what also could have contributed to the product not selling well was the Matalan customer was not taking as many holidays abroad, they could have been staying mostly in the UK where the weather may have been colder. The summer sale during the 14th, 15th, and 16th week did increase unit sales, but not enough to sell the total quantity plus replenishment. What could have been conducted differently was communicating to store managers and the regional visual merchandisers that there was a need to include more of the
products in the store window displays and in-store mannequins. This could sometimes occur and hinder what could have been a successful launch for the buying and merchandising departments, therefore it is important that communication between head office and management within each store is clear, and the targets outlined precisely.
Erdem for Womenswear Footwear and Accessories at Matalan
Sophie is 20 years old, and is a festival fanatic. She loves her music, and she loves her friends and getting together to party with them. She blogs her life on social media, and her favourite application is Instagram. She loves to go the beach, even the local beaches on the English coast. Her favourite celebrity to follow online is Kendall Jenner, she loves to copy her style during the spring/summer months. Sophie is extrovert in her accessories, and loves to pile on the scarfs, necklaces, and bracelets.
Matalan Womenswear Accessories Mood
Concept Board: Women’s Accessories range with Cath Kidston Collaboration with Soon at Matalan
Customer Profile:
• 18-25 • Loves bags, and sunglasses in the summer months • Has a lot of holidays booked, and festival’s to go to with friends • Loves to look unique, and loves to wear bright colours in the summer months • Follows fashion, and reads LOOK magazine weekly • Has fun with fashion, her style is her own
Chunky Shoe RRP: £25.00 Cost Price: £20.00 COO: China Composition: Upper: Other. Lining & Sock: Other. Sole: Other. Heel Height: Approx 4 3/4 inches. Wedge Slip On RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: China Composition: Upper: Other. Lining & Sock: Other. Sole: Other. Heel Height: Approx 1.5 inches.
Canvas Beach Bag RRP: £12.00 Cost Price: £9.60 COO: UK Composition: 100% Cotton
Flip Flop RRP: £6.00 Cost Price: £4.80 COO: India Composition: Other Flip Flop RRP: £6.00 Cost Price: £4.80 COO: India Composition: Other
Scarf RRP: £9.00 Cost Price: £7.20 COO: Turkey Composition: 100% Polyester
Winged Sunglasses RRP: £10.00 Cost Price: £8.00 COO: China Composition: 100% Plastic.
Obi Belt RRP: £8.00 Cost Price: £6.40 COO: Turkey Composition: 100% Polyester
Cross Body Bag RRP: £16.00 Cost Price: £12.80 COO: Turkey Composition: 90% Polyester, 10% Other
Saddle Bag RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: Turkey Composition: 90% Polyurethane, 10% Other.
Saddle Bag RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: Turkey Composition: 100% Polyurethane. Espadrilles RRP: £14.00 Cost Price: £11.20 COO: India Composition: 90% Canvas, 10% Cotton
Head Wrap RRP: £6.00 Cost Price: £4.80 COO: Turkey Composition: 100% Jersey Cotton
Plastic Bangle RRP: £4.00 Cost Price: £3.20 COO: China Composition: 100% Plastic
Rectangle Sunglasses RRP: £10.00 Cost Price: £8.00 COO: China Composition: 100% Plastic
Square Sunglasses RRP: £10.00 Cost Price: £8.00 COO: China Composition: 100% Plastic
Earrings RRP: £6.00 Cost Price: £4.80 COO: China Composition: 100% Plastic
Clutch Bag RRP: £12.00 Cost Price: £9.60 COO: China Composition: 100% Polyurethane
Wicker Bag RRP: £18.00 Cost Price: £14.40 COO: Turkey Composition: 90% Other, 10% Polyurethane.
Pouch RRP: £9.00 Cost Price: £7.20 COO: Turkey Composition: 10% Other, 90% Polyester.
Womenswear Footwear and Accessories Written Range Plan This range is a collaboration with Matalan Footwear and Accessories and Erdem. As the buyer for Matalan Footwear and Accessories, I found through my field research and visiting stores, that this department in particular was very trend focused, even more so than the womenswear department. The components that have been built into this range include: a pouch, a wicker bag, two saddle bags, two cross body bags, two clutches, two beach bags, three obi belts, two head wraps, three pairs of sunglasses, a cuff, a pair of drop earrings, two pairs of padded flip flops, two pairs of espadrilles, a wedged pointed shoe, a chunky heel, and seven variant patterned scarfs. The number of garments in this range is 33. This theme is called ‘Caribbean Cruise’, and this will appear beneath the barcode of the swing ticket for this range. The proportion of the garments in this range are similar to the style of bags and shoes that are already available currently at Matalan. The fabric used is also the same as the fabric used in the current Footwear and Accessories ranges. This includes materials such as: cotton, polyester, and plastic. Choosing to use fabrics and components that are already used by Matalan will help prevent any faults in the critical path that could delay the launch date, and effect the projected profits of this range. There are specific garment styles that I included flip flops, saddle bags, and scarfs, as they are staples of each seasonal range and have been consistent best sellers for this department as they are consistently included in each seasonal range. The lowest cost price within this range is £3.20 for the plastic cuff, as this is an item that can be bought by anyone, and everyone, and can be worn with various outfits. The highest cost price in the range is the chunky heel shoe, at £20. This shoe is the only high heel within this range, and it has a chunky sole, this design could appeal to the target customer who is between 18-25 years of age. It is both sporty and feminine in design, and could sell well during the summer months. The RRP for each garment throughout the range is relatively low, and in line with the current price points in the Footwear and Accessories department in Matalan. This is targeted at the 18-25 year old demographic, and therefore it is important as the buyer for this range that the price reflects the income of the customer, or the amount of money they could spend when they are students or working part time. The shoe sizes available for the shoes in this range will be in line with the current sizes that Matalan stock: size 3-8. However, this range will be not available in wide fit, and this could prevent this range from appealing to a group of Matalan customers that require this specific design. I decided to leave this option out because it could make the range more cost effective, and it could prevent any delays in the critical path if suppliers had to have separate design specifications for the same style. The countries of origin for this range include: India, Turkey, China, and the UK. The choice of country is based on the other ranges coming from those countries also, and therefore this could reduce the time in the critical path. Moreover, the use of the UK can also add more marketing options and increase the amount of products produced by that supplier and could help make the beach bag a more profitable item within the range due to the proximity of the supplier, and the shortened shipping lead time. The highest order quantity of a garment in this range is the dusty pink neck scarf that I have estimated could sell 7000 weekly over a sixteen week selling period, and overall the quantity including replenishment could be 127,940. This is due to my experience working on the shop floor, and the inclusion of scarf within each themed range that Matalan sell within Footwear and Accessories across all seasons. It is a popular item that could be bought by the target customer as well as the core customer, making the range more accessible and easier to buy into. The lowest estimated quantity of units sold over the sixteen week period could be the floral white obi belt that I have estimated could sell 16,000 on a weekly basis. I do not believe, as the buyer for this range, that this could be bought by the core customer as well as the targeted 18-25 customer. However if it sells well, this would affect the budget, and the OTB option would have to be utilised for this product. The competitive shop that I undertook included retailers such as: Dorothy Perkins, New Look, Peacocks, and Primark. The retailers all showed a trend focused range for the spring/summer 2016 season, with an emphasis on festival style products, and beach style products. This helped me curate this range, as I look for products that could be bought by the intended target market, and the core Matalan customer; for example, the beach bag could be bought by both, and the flip flops, but the espadrilles and the head wraps may be inclusive to the target customer only. However, this is an estimate, and could change. The directional shop was eerily similar to the competitive shop that I undertook; for example the product designs were similar such as the espadrilles, and the scarfs. This compounded my beliefs that the Footwear and Accessories department was trend based, and therefore this made the range easier to curate. Pricing architecture of this range is similar to the Footwear and Accessories pricing that Matalan currently have. It felt important as the buyer that the core customers could also buy into this range. The use of the Erdem name could help bring in the more trend conscious 18-25 year old, who is a follower of fashion, but the designs could help the core customers buy into the range. The profit margin of this range is around 73%, this is a healthy profit margin for this range and could constitute in a healthy budget for the future Footwear and Accessories range. I have created a visual merchandising guide for this range, and have placed the products in an aesthetically pleasing way within the Footwear and Accessories area that could help bring customer in to see the range. The cost price of this range is estimated at £4,910,365.20. The estimated overall RRP of this range is £18,483,280. This leaves £13,512,914.80 estimated profit, that could help the budget for the next season, and the marketing strategies that are in place for this range’s promotion.
Financial Spreadsheet: Women’s Accessories
Financial Spreadsheet Analysis: Women’s Accessories
The women’s accessories collaboration with Erdem will produce 33 products throughout the range. The lowest cost price within the range is £1.06 for the plastic cuff. I have chosen to include jewellery in this range as it could be the cheapest to produce, and more quantities could be shipped to stores in small boxes therefore reducing the cost. It is also one of the easiest ways for a customer to buy from the range, as the cheaper items are versatile and can be worn with any outfit; such as the sunglasses, and the earrings. The target market for this range is between 18 and 25 years old, and I believe as the buyer for this range I have successfully aimed this range at that demographic with the use of cheaper items, and essential items for holidays and the spring/summer season; with the beach bag priced at £12, the sandals priced at £6.00 and the sunglasses priced at £10 each. The main countries I have chosen to produce and manufacture this range include, China, India, Turkey and the UK. The reasoning behind the decision I have made as a buyer regarding sourcing is because as a sales assistant at Matalan I frequently worked in the footwear and accessories department for 16 hours of a weekend; I understand where the products are sourced, with India being one of the main countries that produce Matalan’s footwear, due to their expertise in colour dyeing, and designs specification. I have also chosen China for the jewellery as the earrings and the cuff are mainly made of plastic, and as an industrial country I believe that China would be best suited for Matalan; reducing costs, and time of production. The product with the highest number of replenishment was the pink scarf, which had a replenishment quantity over the 16 week selling period of 127,940. I believe this would be the best seller, as my experience from working in the Matalan Williamson Square store, I have found that there is an increase in demand for scarfs, and smaller items, through the spring/summer seasons. This is because, I believe, that it is the smaller items that transverse different target markets from the 18-25 year old consumer and the core customer who may be slightly older. The profit margin throughout the range is 73%, this is a healthy profit margin as it allows the costs to be kept low, and the chance to gain a higher profit. The total cost price overall is estimated at £4,910,365.20, and the total RRP price overall is estimated at £18,423,280.00. Therefore I have calculated that the profit that could be gained from this range could be £13,512,914.80. This is a high estimate for this range, and this could help in the production of another budget for another design collaboration in a future season. It can also help in the budget for marketing and promotional materials. Moreover, 30% of the profit gained can be put aside for open to buy decisions, in case a trend pops up that we the buying team have not recognised; this will prevent the company losing out on increasing their profits. 30% of the profit estimate would be, £4,053,874.44. This could leave £9,459,040.36 available for all other costs.
WSSI Women’s Accessories
WSSI Women’s Accessories WSSI
This WSSI will be used to analyse any internal or external factors that could have affected the sales for two products from the Erdem for Matalan Women’s Accessories range. The first product that I have chosen to examine closely are the floral and beige espadrilles. This product I thought could be one of the best sellers, due to my experience working in the footwear and accessories department during the previous spring/summer seasons, and finding that this was a popular style amongst the young Matalan customers. Furthermore, I conducted a directional shop, and found that this particular design was still popular with designers also. This product had one of the highest opening stock amongst the entire range, with a total quantity of 40760 including replenishment. This product started slow in week one with only 975 actual sales, in contrast to the 1000 that was forecast by the merchandising and buying departments. It slowly increased it’s number of units sold over the first 3 weeks
until Mailer launched in week 4, and the actual sales for that week was 2500. This was a big jump from the 1395 units sold in the previous week. The predicted storm dampened the sales slightly be a few hundred units, but as the storm passed the sales jumped again to 2424 in week 8. The biggest increase was from week 10 until week 16, with the Glastonbury Festival having a behavioural impact in the products most young people would most likely wear on holiday and when going out for the day with their friends, the sales per week jumped to 6525 which was the largest amount of units sold during the entire 16 week selling period for the ‘Caribbean Cruise’ range. Due to the increase in sales during the week of Glastonbury, a stock cover of 10,000 was ordered across all stores, which was a shrewd move as the summer sales caused the sales per week to continually increase until there was no more stock left. This is a positive WSSI example, and shows how trend forecasting and
understand the customer behaviour and customer profile can help the buyer and merchandiser make more precise business decisions. The second product that I have analysed using the WSSI is the wicker bag. This bag I believe was a key piece amongst the other items in the range, it is a product that may not sell well due to its composition, shape, and style. The opening stock was 17360, with the first week forecasted sales a mere 950; 875 were actually sold during the first week. Sales jumped to 1500 due to the Grand National, as the fanciful nature of the bag could be worn with an expensive dress or a more affordable outfit to any occasion that requires a dress code to be followed. Sales increased to 1785 during week 4 when the spring/summer Mailer was launched. However, the storm that was predicted over the UK arrived it caused a sharp drop in sales for week 5 and 6 with sales reducing to 525 and 655 over the two weeks. However sales bounced back to a healthy 1100 over the bank holiday weekend, as the unpredictable British weather struck again. This change in weather affected customer behaviour, with more customers seemingly buying the more summery items from the range, including the Wicker Bag. The 30% sale between week 10 and 11 increased the sales to a high of 1785 over the two weeks. Sales fell sharply again after the short spring sale, but then increased as the main summer sale began, with the actual sales peaking at 1200 for week 14. The product sold out completely during the summer sale. However, one of the mistakes I made as the buyer is that I could have brought in a stock cover in order to slightly increase the profits during the summer sale. With less products available to each store, there could have been a missed opportunity to give customer’s the product that they needed and each store missing out on increasing their profits during one of the busiest sales periods of the year.
Fabric Composition: Man-Made Fibres
MAN-MADE FIBRES
ARTIFICIAL
SYNTHETIC
• • •
Polyester Elastane Polyurethane
POLYESTER
CELLULOSE (Naturally Occurring Polymers)
• •
Viscose Lyocell VISCOSE
Polyester fibres are perfect for coats and jackets as the fabric does not absorb water, making it easier to apply a waterproof top coat to the material. The fabric is resistant to staining, and can not be stretched which gives the product longevity.
Polyester can also imitate cotton and wool making it a cheaper alternative for formal wear; shirts and suits.
Viscose is derived from wood pulp. There are numerous chemical processes involved. The viscose fibres are finally extracted from a chemical pool of sulphuric acid, and cleaned to wash the acidic residue off the fabric. Viscose production is slowly declining because of this method of production, as it is not ecologically stable. There has been research that suggests that viscose degrades quicker than cotton, and the production methods could cause environmental problems related to deforestation. A new material that is becoming more popular for retailers is Lyocell. (Fabric For Fashion, Hallett, C. and Johnston, A., 2014)
References Hallett, C. and Johnston, A. (2014). Fabric for Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing.
Fabric Composition: Lyocell
Eucalyptus Trees
‘Small chips around 25 by 25 millimetres are cut from hardwood logs. These are chemically dissolved to remove the lignin (organic structural support), and to soften sufficiently for mechanical milling. A wet papery pulp is produced, which can then be bleached if required, dried as sheets and rolled onto spools. The rolls of dried pulp are broken up and dissolved in organic compound, (NMMO) at
Pulped Wood (Tencel)
high temperature and pressure, producing the filtered cellulose solution. The solution is pumped through spinners into an organic compound bath of diluted amine oxide to set the strands, which are at the stage referred to as dope. The fibres are washed and dried (remaining water residue is evaporated). The strands are often finished with lubricants such as silicone or soap as appropriate to the end use. The bundle is crimped to compress the fibre for added texture and bulk, and finally the fibres are mechanically carded, coloured and baled for shipment to fibre mills. Lyocell can be spun with cotton or wool.’ (Fabric For Fashion The Complete Guide, Clive
Balls of Tencel fibres
Hallett and Amanda Johnston (Feb, 2014)
Lyocell is eco-friendly, it is produced from a renewable source and is produced in a ‘closed loop system’ that recycles all the chemicals used. The raw material used is utilises less land and water than is needed for comparable materials, when disposed of appropriately,
Dyed Tencel Fibres
and it is fully biodegradable. There is, however, a debate over the amount of energy used in heating, milling, and drying, and over the fact that some solvents may have a petrochemical origin. The fibre’s natural reluctance to absorb dye and its tendency for pilling, when wet have also been debated, as both are sometimes remedied by using harsh chemicals, this, of course, it dependant on the manufacturer of the end fabric. (Fabric For Fashion The Complete Guide, Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston (Feb, 2014)
Carded and Spun Fibres This information is useful for me as the buyer for this range, as it helps me find out where the fabric could be sourced from and the effects on the environment. The competitive shop helped me find out the typical fabrics that Matalan use for certain products, and for some casual trousers Lyocell was used instead of denim. It is a fabric that is durable when wet and dry, and can be mixed with different
Finished Woven Fabric
fibres such as cotton, wool, linen, silk, and Lycra. It can also be treated to have the ‘feel’ of silks or denim materials, so it reduces the cost for the retailer during production, and it gives the buying team more flexibility when it comes to what products can be brought into the range such as chambray trousers for example. Eucalyptus trees are grown without pesticides or artificial irrigation, but the
transportation of the wood to the production factories in Africa costs money, and then the export of the raw materials to the supplier would also cost money and takes away from the positive ecological beginnings of the product. (WiseGeek, Unknown)
References Hallett, C. and Johnston, A. (2014). Fabric for Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing. wiseGEEK. (2016). What is Lyocell? (with pictures). [online] Available at: http://www.wisegeek.org/what-islyocell.htm [Accessed 6 May 2016].
Customer Considerations: Fabric Sourcing The target customer for the women’s wear range collaboration with Cath Kidston is between 45 and 55 years of age. Therefore,
POLYESTER
the fabric must suit their lifestyle of a busy mother/partner, working part time, with hobbies that could include gardening etc.
Customer Considerations Women’s Range
The fabric used for the dresses and the blouses should reflect a silk-like fabric, so it can be worn
VISCOSE
in the day time and also in the evening if the customer wants to go out for a meal with friends or go to a Wedding or Christening in the spring
and summer months.
The customer may not like the taught denim fabric of jeans, and might want
something more versatile that will not restrict their movements during the day time, and can be worn on holiday that is not too hot or restrictive.
LYOCELL
Sourcing: Romania Romania first joined the EU in 2007, this allowed them to trade within the European Union with more protective measures and more opportunities for growth. In the case of Romania, it is a highly skilled country, adept in engineering and information technology. However, there is a huge difference in the wages in Romania for the highly skilled workers, and what those same workers would get in a more developed European country like the UK and Germany. Therefore, this has become one of the fastest
growing countries for more developed countries to outsource their production across different sectors, including retail. From researching this country, and the high skilled people who work for a low wage in Romania, I understand that as a buyer it is tempting to look for the most cost effective form of production and choosing Romania immediately reduces the lead times and decreases the amount of time given for each step within the critical path. Romania has a wealth of creative talent, ‘Romania has more Informatics and Math Olympiad medals than any other European nation, and is 3rd globally after Russia (URSS) and China…’ Romania is similar to China, but it’s closeness to Europe makes it the most viable option to have clothing, accessories and footwear manufactured by highly skilled workers but for a similar cost to outsourcing to Asia. The only difference is the reduction in shipping costs and shipping lead times. More than 50% of the population is under 40 years old, (ar-ne.org, 2011). This also helps me the buyer think that this country would be the best option to produce most of the products in the two clothing ranges for Matalan. Unlike countries that are more typically used by the retail industry, like Bangladesh, China, and India, Romania has more highly skilled workers, and according to ar-ne.org they have more university educated residents that are readily available to work in the industrial sector. Unlike India, Russia, and China, the (ar-ne.org, 2011) report from 2011 shows that there is less risk to companies who outsource to Romania than if they had outsourced to China and Asia, where there a numerous problems that have occurred in recent years including poor infrastructure to buildings, no health and safety checks conducted as often, too much distance between Europe, China, and Asia. Outsourcing to Romania offers protection under NATO and the EU for European countries who want a cost effective method of manufacturing and quality control for their products. Reading the wash care labels inside numerous Matalan products I have found that they mostly outsource their clothing production to Romania, and after researching the country and their methods I understand more about Matalan as a company and I understand where the three ranges I have built for Matalan will be coming from. This is similar to a miniature audit, and I feel happier knowing that the ranges will be built in a country with highly skilled workers, continuous industrial development and closer to the UK than other countries like Bangladesh. Although I have used other countries for the three ranges for the sourcing of the products, that is simply protecting the lead times and critical path of all three ranges, as using focused sourcing prevents any problems that may occur that include external factors like weather trouble and political problems disrupting the critical path and lead times. References Anon, (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.ar-ne.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/AR-NE-romaniaIT.pdf [Accessed 5 May 2016]. Clutch.co. (2016). Outsourcing to Romania | Clutch.co. [online] Available at: https://clutch.co/outsourcing-location/romania [Accessed 5 May 2016]. EU, S. (2016). Sourcing and production in the EU - Fashion - Fashion-news. [online] Fashionunited.co.uk. Available at: https://www.fashionunited.co.uk/fashion-news/fashion/sourcing-andproduction-in-the-eu-2013070917998 [Accessed 5 May 2016].
Critical Path and Lead Times: Products Manufactured in Romania
PLANNING: 30/01/17
RESEARCH:
THREE DAYS: • Any holidays, religious or otherwise that could affect lead times with suppliers. • Skype with suppliers, find out their current state of their business; any political troubles, weather troubles, keep the relationship solid.
THREE DAYS: • Using company intranet find out bestsellers from last season, and what didn’t sell. • BAA conducts competitive shop, produces information to departmental head meeting. • Customer Profile reviewed. • Trend forecasting (Instagram, Pinterest, WGSN, street style)
BULK PRODUCTION PLUS SHIPPING
THREE WEEKS: • Production in Romania has a lead time of three weeks; • One week for production • Two weeks for shipping which will include by road, and by boat, and then again by road to the distribution centre.
PLACE ORDER ONE DAY: • Skype with each supplier, continue negotiating from visit, place the order. Set the lead time.
WAREHOUSE-STORE ALLOCATION
TWO DAYS: • Distribution centre staff load lorries with a certain amount of products from the new range for each store depending on their store grading.
DESIGN
PROTO SAMPLE & COSTINGS
THREE DAYS: • Buyer, Merch, will brief Design team about CAD choices; specifications altered etc. • Fabric and trims chosen, designer team will include this in their presentation to all departments. • Technicians will produce a design pack, size grading, and QA information pack for suppliers.
TEN DAYS (EST) • Design team will send off the specifications for the garments in each range to different suppliers. Using focused sourcing will extend the lead time for the prototypes to be returned and red and gold seals to be attached to each garment.
TRIM & COLOUR APPROVALS
GARMENT FITTINGS
ONE DAY: • Fit models brought in and they test the proto samples as they have arrived from the factories to be given the red seal of approval. BAA assists along with Trainee Buyer.
TWO DAYS: • Quality Control testing conducted on all trims and colour dyes before sent to supplier.
PRODUCT LAUNCHED IN STORE: 26/03/2017 Each store will be subjected to an embargo to prevent the pre-release of the new ranges in line with company policy. There will be a night shift the day before the products are to be sold to the public, where the VM guide will show the staff how to show the range effectively according to the buying and merchandising team.
PRE RANGE SELECTION MEETING
THREE DAYS: • The range will be narrowed down with input from merchandisers and buyers, to decide what products can be produced within the lead times set and whether they fit the customer.
FABRIC ORDER
THREE DAYS: • After looking at sample archive, deduce what fabrics would work best. • Quality Control checks the standard of the fabric, fabric technologist test fabric choice. • Fabric order is made in conjunction with suppliers.
NEGOTIATION/TRIP TO FACTORIES
FOUR DAYS: • Senior buyer will travel to factories, negotiate in person to get the best deal, and to secure the best lead times for the company. • QA Controller will visit suppliers to make sure faults are minimised.
FINAL RANGE SELECTION MEETING
ONE DAY: • Head of buying, merchandising and design, convene to approve the range from each buyers department. • Signed off by Jason Hargreaves, or John Hargreaves.
Sourcing and Lead Time Estimate: Women’s, Men’s, Women’s Accessories Ranges
UK
Romania
Turkey Bangladesh
China
India Sri Lanka
UK:
Cotton Beach Bags. (Lead Time Estimate: 2 weeks)
Romania:
Jackets, Trousers, Knit Dress, Midi Skirt, Tailoring. (Lead Time Estimate: 2.5-3 weeks)
Turkey:
Shirts, Graphic Vest, Utility Trousers, Chino’s, Saddle Bag, Wicker Bag, Pouch, Head Wrap, Cross Body Bag, Obi Belt (Lead Time Estimate: 2.5-3 weeks)
China:
Mac, Sunglasses, Clutch, Earrings, Cuff, Wedge Slip On, Chunky Heel, Trainer, Sandal, Travel Bag (Lead Time Estimate: 4-5 weeks)
India:
Flip Flops, Espadrilles (Lead Time Estimate: 4-5 weeks)
Sri Lanka:
Shirt Dress, Batwing Cardigan, Jersey Top (Lead Time Estimate: 5-6 weeks)
Bangladesh:
Peplum Blouse, Kimono Blouse, Drawstring Trousers, Trench Coat, Polo Shirts, Shorts, T-Shirt (Lead Time Estimate: 4-5 weeks)
Shipping Costs Case Study: Romania
Country
Port
BDCM1 Box Price
20ft Hanging Container
Romania
Constanta
£1310.22
£48224.61
The shipping costs for Romania, including Menswear and Womenswear range collaborations. The Women’s Accessories range did not include Romania as their country of origin, so I have left it out of the calculations. Finding out the costs of shipping for only 15 products out of 90 products over the three ranges. £49,534.83 is the total cost for containers and boxes for the 15 products that will be manufactured in Romania. Romania’s shipping port of Constanta, is one of many along the coast. It could be taken by lorry along the roads, crossing through borders, or if there is a dire need to meet lead times then they could use aviation in order to reach the distribution centre on time.
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Transport
The use of lorries to transport the materials to and from landlocked countries, and factories that can only be reached by truck or lorry,
Matalan will source the production for the three ranges.
Cargo ships will be used to carry the containers and boxes that have been paid to hold the finished products ready to be sorted at the Matalan distribution centre in Knowsley. Import and Export costs depend on the country, the products being transported to the UK.
The distribution centre in Knowlsey will process the products, and place the hanging clothes from the containers and boxes on rails, and the smaller products in boxes and in cages, according to the merchandisers allocation for each store grade. The deliveries will be made Monday to Friday, with instructions on how many clothes are hanging, and how many boxes in the cages.
Sri Lanka
Romania
China
Turkey
India
UK
Bangladesh
Around the UK
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Staff
The staff within the supplier factories will have to adhere to
Production requirements for the three ranges for Matalan will
There may be a middle man involved, for example a English
strict health and safety rules that Matalan outline with regular
include highly skilled workers, that can produce products with
speaking manager in charge of the factory, or a translator that
visits, and audits conducted by private companies. There will
high quality industrial production methods without the high
can successfully communicate the information from the
be an inspection of the sterile sample room, and the QC team
risk of natural disasters, political unrest, and dangerous
buying and merchandising team to the workforce. In some
will check that every piece of equipment is up to standard to
factory structures, that could effect the critical path and lead
cases there may be a representative from the workforce who
minimise faults and thus reduce excess costs. The staff must
times. Choosing Romania for some of the products could cost
is also including in negotiations, so that there are no forms of
be able to understand English, both written and verbal, in
more than sourcing from a less developed developing country,
malpractice involved in reaching the specific lead time in time;
order to sign contracts and follow health and safety rules
but will give peace of mind to the buying team in regards to
this includes notifying the manager of the factory, and the
alongside understand the design specifications that the design
lead times being met and quality of the product being met.
buying and merchandising representatives of problems with
team and the quality control team have devised.
Sourcing from with the EU can reduce the shipping costs, lead
the production line including ill-health, abusive practices in the
Depending on the country where the factory is based, the
times, and shorten the buying cycle overall.
factory. Any of the examples could disrupt the critical path,
buying team need to be aware of any public holidays, or
and could cause a strike, or mass sickness if an infection or
religious events, that could halt production.
virus spreads amongst the workforce.
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Industrial Equipment
Industrial equipment that is used in any factory that has a
The sample room will be vetted by the quality control team
Any equipment used by the supplier to dye the raw materials,
contract with Matalan has to be thoroughly checked by a
before the samples are produced for the buying team and
and the fabric, used for the Matalan ranges will have to be up
private auditing team and private safety inspector, to ensure
design team to inspect. There will be a set date for the sample
to industry standard. They cannot alter the quality of the
that there are no faults with the machinery that could jam up
to be created and shipped by, so this will not affect the critical
fabric, or the composition of the fabric that could cause faults
the fabric, or injure a worker within the factory. It is important
path and lead times that the buying team have set for their
to occur after wearing the clothes for a short period of time.
that there are guidelines for the workers to follow in regards
ranges, as this could affect the buying teams for other
To prevent this, the fabric choice needs to be able to take the
to the use of the equipment, so that they protect themselves
departments and therefore the launch date could be affected.
stress of numerous methods of fabric production before it
first and their fellow workers. If there are any jams in the
Also, the sample that they send must be perfect. If it is not
joins the production line in the factory. That is why choosing
production line this could halt production and the amount of
perfect, then this will delay the critical path for all
man-made fibres can prevent any deterioration of fabric
fabric available to Matalan to produce the ranges to the exact
departments.
during the production processes.
quota issued by the merchandising team.
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Quality Control
Within the head office there will be a section dedicated to quality
Within the supplier factory there will be a room before the bulk garments are
Matalan’s head office will send a quality controller to each factory where
control, where fabrics will be taken from the sample archive,
packaged and sent to the distribution centre. This room will be the quality
they will check the products quality first-hand at the start of the
tested, and shown on a fabric board to the buying team and the
control room where a number of workers will check the clothing, put stress
production. They will look at the seams, the quality of the materials, and
merchandising team to see what fabrics will be suitable for the
on the seams, and check that any trims or embellishments in regards to the
the overall look of the product. Before the reach the supplier, the sample
different garments in each departments range. This will then be
coats and trousers are secure. In regards to the accessories in the
that has been provided first would have been tested in their quality
dyed with different chemicals, and tested again, to check that the
womenswear, such as bags, and jewellery; testing the components to make
control room at Matalan head office, and also worn by the fit model to
quality of the fabric will not be lost.
sure excess weight breaks the strap on the bag, or the post of the earrings.
see if the size guide is correct. Once they have given the sample a red and
The sample provided by each supplier will also be tested,
This is important, and most of the responsibility for the quality control checks
gold seal, and therefore given the supplier the green light to produce it in
measured, and placed on a fit model, to help the buying and
within the factory are down to the factory employees. Although the quality
bulk, then they will visit the supplier to check the standards are the same
merchandising team understand what the product will look like
controllers from head office visit to check themselves, they are not always
throughout the process. If not, then there will have to be a re-negotiation
and how it will fit on their customer. Any hindrance to this process
there to check every batch of materials. Therefore there is a lot of trust
with the supplier, or a termination of contract and another supplier in the
could extend the lead times for the shipping, and it could increase
involved, and this is why sourcing the best suppliers is important, and keeping
area sourced with reduced quantity and replenishment in order to keep
the cost of the production if there is too little time to negotiate a
a good relationship with each supplier is vital, especially for a new buyer like
in line with the lead time.
good price.
myself.
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Development Site
The chosen supplier must have an adequate factory built in an area
Access roads may have to be built around the factories within
Romania is one of the countries of origin within the women’s
where waste has the opportunity to be recycled, and the environment
underdeveloped, and developing countries, where the
range and the men’s range for Matalan. It is a big country within
can be protected. Some of the products from the womenswear range are
garment production is sourced. This could take time, and if not
Eastern Europe, but it has limited access to shipping lanes that
sourced from Sri Lanka, and the image above is an exterior image of a
complete with the proper guide for infrastructure it could
other countries like India, China, and Turkey, have due to their
garment factory in Sri Lanka. The surrounding area has been flattened,
cause damage to the vehicles, and accidents involving the
location on the coast. Therefore, the sites of the factories may be
and trees removed, which could be seen as harmful to the environment,
lorries transporting the goods to and from the local sea port.
further inland, as it would be closer to the main roads and borders
but it is necessary to do this to build access roads for large amounts of
The buyers will visit the site, and have to be aware of the are
of their neighbouring countries. As the buyer, it is important that I
lorries to come and go, ready to transport the products to local sea ports
surrounding the factory externally and not just what occurs
visit this country, and find out the exact location of the factories in
where the containers will be loaded onto cargo ships.
internally within the factory. Any damage that may occur to
order to estimate the time it would take for the products to arrive
The development site is wide, and built in a way where there may be less
the product will have to be written off either in-store if it is not
at the UK. There are numerous borders that would have to be
risk to the employees, as the structure appears to be solid and steady.
found before it is sold, or at the distribution centre. This will
crossed, and this could incur charges on the vehicles, and searches
This is important, as any structural damage, or infrastructure damage to
reduce the overall profit projection, and increase the costs
that could delay the arrival of the garments. This would have to be
the surrounding roads could delay the critical path and the lead times for
applied to the production of the ranges for Matalan.
taken into account when completing the lead times and shipping
the different ranges.
time forms.
Critical Path, Production Issues and Organisational Requirements : Communication and Technology
In order to reduce the time within the critical path, there would need to
It is important that the buying team can communicate with the suppliers
The design team can create their own CAD’s for each range,
be sophisticated technology used by the buying team and merchandising
from all around the world. Using email could be too slow, and using a
and apply specific specifications according to the seasonal
team in order to produce an advanced range plan, fabric composition
telephone might not be able to convey the correct message to the
trends that the buying team have forecast. This could include a
plan, and communicate between departments with as little time as
supplier due to translation issues. Skype would be one of the best
new skirt length, a new petite range, or tall range etc. With the
possible. This can reduce the buffering time between decision making
communication methods to use in order to show and tell the supplier
range that I have planned as the buyer for Matalan I have used
and ordering the fabrics, and the production from each supplier.
what the buying team desire from the range.
CAD’s from WGSN, but a big retailer like Matalan could find it easier and more sophisticated to design their own CAD’s to prevent them from having something similar to a competitor,
especially if it is going to be sold at a cheaper price. This can halve the critical path and lead times, as the design team will be able to create CAD’s at a quicker rate.
Supply Chain: Matalan, 3x Ranges Negotiate Deal & Lead Times Shipping To Distribution Centre Customer Transport Garments to Store
Visit Suppliers
Consumer Behaviour
Quality Control Buying and Merch Meetings
Purchasing and Material Control
Sample Archive
Sample Garment Arrives
Re-send sample back if not correct
Field Research: Staff Questionnaire: Floor Manager John Padfield and Visual Merchandiser Lisa Raybould from Matalan Williamson Square. John Padfield: Floor Manager, Menswear Manager
Lisa Raybould: Visual Merchandiser
How do you feel about a collaboration with Paul Smith for a casual and formal
Do you think it is important for the customer to build different outfits
range for menswear?
with each range?
I think it would bring in a lot of younger customers into the store and increase the profits of the department. Currently, there is not a lot of differences to the department with each coming season. It would be a positive change.
Yes. It is important that the theme’s from head office are clear to the customer. We have visual merchandising guides to help us.
What do you feel about the price point of the range that I have created?
What do you think about a designer/brand collaboration?
It’s fair and in line with our current core customer.
It could narrow the reach of the brand. Although, I think it could help bring more attention to the store.
Do you think the menswear department needs to evolve like ladies wear has recently?
This store (Williamson Square) has a lot of mannequins, leading up the escalator, on the bridge between St. John’s Shopping Centre, and
Yes. The department makes the lowest profit out of all the departments in this store (Williamson Square), so anything to counteract that is a positive.
throughout the store, is this key to Matalan’s success?
Yes. It helps us (the visual merchandisers) do our own trend forecasting and build our own looks that we can directly target at the customers.
In-Store Visual Merchandising Concepts Wall ends are utilised by the visual merchandising staff and the womenswear staff to put together outfits, and get as much stock out as possible for that particular outfit. This is a great way for sales assistants and visual merchandisers to be creative, and to give people an outfit to buy, and thus increase profits.
Footwear and Accessories has a lot of visual merchandising opportunities within the department. Usually there is a mannequin with a themed outfit, using the footwear and accessories. Each swing ticket has a theme for that season, making it easier for sales assistants and visual merchandisers to display the products on the wall and on the front tables.
Menswear has a lot of busts on high levels with tailored clothing in the suits section, and casual clothing in the casual section. At the front of the department there are three mannequins displaying the casual trends from Matalan for the season and in the back of the department there are three mannequins displaying the suits for the new season; this is usually more prominently dressed during Christmas time, Grand National, and Wedding season.
Visual Merchandising: VM Guide for Cath Kidston at Soon, Matalan.
Customer Flow
Anne Wis German 40 Years Old Models 1 Management Store Grade: A,B,C,D,E
This range will be at the front of the department, floor fixtures, and back wall. It will be condensed further for stores graded D, depending on space.
Top 5 Actions: 1.
Layout
2.
Space
3.
Kit
4.
Profile
5.
POS
Featured on wall end’s, and catwalk mannequins to increase profits and sales.
Visual Merchandising: VM Guide for Paul Smith, Matalan Menswear
Store Grade: A,B,C,D,E
Andy Richardson British 36 Years Old Models 1 Management
Josh Rowley Top 5 Actions: 1.
Layout
2.
Space
3.
Kit
4.
Profile
5.
POS
British The table at the front of customer flow will be price blocked. Fixtures will also be price blocked. Casual clothing will lead to the more expensive clothing on the back wall.
18 Years Old Models 1 Management Customer Flow
Visual Merchandising: VM Guide for Erdem, Matalan Footwear and Accessories
Store Grade: A,B,C,D,E
Matalan high platform visual display, footwear and accessories department.
There high visual merchandising stands will correspond to the range theme beneath. It is important to place the Erdem range at the front of customer flow. Condense if necessary.
Customer Flow
Visual Merchandising Guide Analysis Visual merchandising is important to showcase the new ranges the company has to offer, by reducing costs of marketing as the aesthetically attractive displays in shop windows bring in customers to the store, and showcase the different outfits that can be worn by the different customers the company recognises in their customer profile. In the Matalan Williamson Square store there are a lot of mannequins, with three or four leading up the escalators to the shop floor, three grouped together when you walk along the front, then a catwalk of three mannequins near the tills, three mannequins on formal wear, full body mannequins and bottom half mannequins and busts on the high levels within essentials. There is also three or four on either side of the bridge entrance leading into the Matalan store from the St. John’s Shopping Centre entrance. There are two or three mannequins on the jersey essentials area of the store, and then there are two mannequins in the fitting room, and numerous busts and mannequins dotted around the high level shelves across the whole store. There is usually three high level visual merchandising shelves that are changed according to the new themes being sold in footwear and accessories for each season. There is also a Lucite cube that contains three or four visual merchandising combinations that are grouped according to the theme’s on the swing tickets. The Cath Kidston visual merchandising guide that I have created is in accordance to the space that is usually given to Williamson Square store, the Wavertree store, and the Aintree store that I visit frequently. Each store is of a different grade. I have taken into account that Williamson Square is a lower grade store, and therefore there is minimal space for the Cath Kidston collaboration with the Soon sub-brand. Therefore it will not be included. However, the other ranges have spaces within their respective departments to be placed in a condensed fashion within the department. The Cath Kidston visual merchandising guide has a customer flow coming from the front of the store as the Soon collection is usually placed away from the Edit, and the more basic essential ‘mats’ within ladieswear. I have grouped the products together based on their style; i.e trousers together, jersey basic together, and dresses
and blouses together. This helps with price blocking the floor, and not confusing the customer, and instead helping them build an outfit as they move around the department. POS is important for both Menswear and ladieswear departments, as it signals to the customer where everything is, and so they are directed to the department they want to buy something from as the POS also helps sales assistants direct customers around the store. I have chosen a model to be used for the Cath Kidston collaboration that is 40 years old, she is slightly younger than the target market, but I believe her style and her features reflect the middle aged customer that I as the buyer am targeting with this range collaboration. I have not placed the key pieces from the range, the white floral midi dress and the mac coat, on the shop floor as they will be showcased prominently on wall ends within the department, or on the catwalk or mannequins. This is because as the buyer I believe the two pieces could be two of the bestsellers within the range, and both are moderately priced that could increase profits throughout the store. The Paul Smith collaboration with Matalan Menswear has a layout that is not dissimilar to what is currently the layout within the Matalan Williamson Square. The suits and formal wear are placed on the back wall as they are key
pieces of the range and are placed high on the back wall so that customers can see the range before entering the department. The suits and formal wear within this Paul Smith range are targeted at the younger end of the 25-35 target market spectrum, as they are colourful, and are created from more modern shapes. The casual wear could appeal to the core customer within the 25-35 target market. The clothes are price blocked on the tables, and on the shop floor, and they are also grouped according to the style; i.e, chino’s with chino’s, and casual tops together, etc. The customer flow moves the customer through the more value pieces to the more on-trend expensive suits on the back wall. The footwear is placed on shelves on the front of the department, closer to the casual items, and the travel bag is placed on the back wall as this could be worn with the suits for the workplace. The Paul Smith collaboration with the menswear department will use two models, one for the suits range who is 36 years old and representing the older end of the target market spectrum. The other model is 18 years old, and that is younger than the target market the range is aimed at. However, I believe his look and personality is reflective of the younger target market this range would be aimed at. The footwear and accessories collaboration with Erdem will be placed in most of the stores as it is easier to condense than it is with the clothing from the other ranges. The space available within the footwear and accessories range within Matalan Williamson Square is substantial enough to hold the Erdem range beside other spring/summer 2017 ranges that may appear over the course of the season. The Perspex display box that is the highlight of the high point visual displays will have numerous visual displays from the Erdem range placed inside in an aesthetically pleasing way. This can be changed according to availability within the range, and to push products that do not sell well throughout the season before any sale starts. There is more emphasis on visual merchandising within the footwear and accessories department than other departments, as there are little to no POS M2’s and M3’s to place inside the department, so visual merchandising boxes are important to push the themes of each of the lines within the department.
Look Book
Look Book
Look Book
Look Book Analysis The look book that I have created for the three ranges will be fanciful, creative, but include the prices for each product. I used Photoshop for all the pages, and this included using pictures of models that I had chosen for each range, and manipulating the CAD’s with the transform, and warp, tool. This helped me fit the shoes on the feet of the models, and the clothes on to the models also. The colour schemes fit the concept boards that I had created for each range, and are styled according to the target market. I enjoyed using Photoshop in this part of the final major project, as I did not use this a lot during previous unit’s and tasks. This look book reflects the current mailer that Matalan produce during seasonal line drops, and also different promotions they have during different times of each season. I wanted the look of it to be more fun, and whimsical than the previous look books that I have created where the CAD’s were laid flat, with minimal creativity.
The Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ look book was inspired by a holiday to the UK countryside, with inclusions of the Women’s Accessories and suitcases for Spring/Summer 2016. The clothes are laid out as if they were just taken out of the suitcase, and the woman is dressed in the outfit that will be featured in
store on wall ends. The models used are aimed at the target market of 45-55 years of old. I will use a celebrity promotional event for the launch of the range, but will defer from using a celebrity to head the range as Soon is a sub-brand and this could overshadow any marketing and range launch for the main ladies wear spring/summer 2017 range.
The Erdem for Matalan Footwear and Accessories has the range title of ‘Caribbean Cruise’, therefore the styling has to reflect this. The theme will be included on the swing tickets in store, making it easier for visual merchandisers to place together in an aesthetically pleasing way in the footwear and accessories department. I loved this page, as I used all of the skills that I had learnt from using Photoshop this year to transform, and warp, the products to fit the feet and therefore look more professional and exciting within the look book. This range will not be promoted by a celebrity, but promotional packs will
The Paul Smith for Matalan Menswear range is inspired by the theme that I found on WGSN called ‘Digital Wave’. There are hints of 80’s sports style with the casual lines, and the suits are informal and have a different model who looks more professional. However the target
be sent to Instagram stars and this will be discussed in the marketing strategies.
market of 25-35 could appreciate the colours, and the inclusion of
It is target at 18-25 target market, and they might appreciate the
sports stars in the promotion and marketing of the range.
Key Events: March 2017-April 2017
20/03/2017 Light box images, M2 and Window flooring and backdrops arrive for visual merchandisers to place in windows during night shift and morning shifts.
26/03/2017 Range launches in store and online. Allocation of sizes depend on store grading.
24/03/2017 Launch event for celebrities and social media celebrities. Pictures posted on their social media, with Grazia and Look magazine in attendance.
19/03/2017 Visual Guide and Look Books sent to store to help preparation for delivery arrival, and to promote the new ranges at till points.
27/03/2017 Black reward card VIP event in store for the last 2 hours of store opening. Money distributed to each store, depending on size, to hire DJ and provide refreshments to customers.
31/03/2017 Half-term approx. starts on this date. Increase in customer flow, and increase in online shopping as families take time off to spend time with children, and go shopping.
01/04/2017 Matalan S/S 2017 marketing campaign starts on TV, billboards, and online. The front of the menswear campaign will be a sports star (TBC). This could increase customer traffic online to menswear, and increase customer flow in-store. Adverts start on prime time television.
02/04/2017 Weekly audits begin to monitor price is correct and SKU’s are correct to prevent loss of profit. Anything that is not scanning correctly removed from sale.
23/04/2017 Mailer released and sent to red card and black card holders, with a 25% off all department voucher. This could increase sales, and therefore allocation will have to be correct and on time, and availability will have to be checked. Regional manager may visit during this time.
09/04/2017 Grand National Weekend. Increase in sales for dresses, and coats. Increase in sales for men’s suits, and women’s accessories. This could also be a week of good weather, so visual merchandising may need to change, and mannequins may need to change to promote more summer products and dresses.
30/04/2017 Success of campaign increases sales beyond expectation, leaving some stores with less stock. This may have to cause some stores to seek out transfer of stock from other stores, resulting in loss of stock that does not sell, and risk losing profits from lines that have been transferred to other stores in favour of season specific stock that may not sell if weather changes, or trends become stale.
Key Events 2017: Store Grade A: Wavertree (Shed Store)
Events
Implications to Merchandising
Moving distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley Industrial Park.
This could affect the quantity of each product reach each store around the country, and loss of communication between head office and distribution centre. Private couriers will have to be hired to deliver goods, and transfers between stores will cause strain on supply.
February
Infrastructure repairs to access roads around the Wavertree shed store preventing customer from reaching the store.
Stock that isn’t selling in store due to external factors could cause deliveries to halt, and directed elsewhere. A new incentive will have to be introduced to help customers access into the store.
March
Launch event in Oxford Street store. Black card event in-store to launch the new ranges across all departments; goodie bags, DJ’s and photo booth.
Stock allocation has to be accurate, according to last season launch. Any featured garments in the front page of the mailer, or included in promotional adverts in different magazines and on television. Merchandisers need to be aware of featured products so that more could be allocated to Wavertree which is a large shed store. VM’s will have to place the highly promoted garments at the front of the shop.
April
Government’s Living Wage increases to £7.20 per hour. Mid-season sale.
This could affect the amount of disposable income that over 25’s have, and therefore allocation may have to increase before the next pay day. New season that includes a lot of public events, including Aintree Races, requires a change of mannequins to fit a ‘races’ theme. Mid-season sale starts to get rid of excess stock that has not sold since the launch date depending on data collected through stock audits, and store visits by roaming visual merchandisers and merchandising assistants.
May
Early summer weather; unusually hot May.
Holiday shop placed at the front of the store to entice customers to spend more on the spring/summer ranges. Merchandisers might have to pre-empt this by forecasting external factors like the weather that could affect customer behaviour. VM’s might have to push summer clothing due to the unusually hot weather.
Summer sale.
Placement of sale will be vast in all stores, especially a shed store that is bigger. Therefore placement of non-sale stock has to be moved, but not erased, from the shop floor. Customer should be able to buy sale and non-sale items together. Merchandisers need to transfer sale items in bulk to stores, so they have more sale items to sell and therefore higher percentage of profit to make.
Months January
June
Summer sale and school holidays start.
Childrenswear visual merchandising must be accurate, and must have clothes with a high availability on mannequins. Sale will need to be moved around so that new stock arriving can be placed at the front of the department, to increase sales and customer flow. There will be a mailer sent out to customer, with vouchers for all departments. Therefore, there needs to be an awareness of increased customer flow to shed stores, due to easier parking and access to customers.
August
Back to school shopping begins. Holiday shop is condensed on all departments and moved to accommodate the new seasonal ranges for A/W.
Increase in uniform ranges to shed stores. All sizes to be made available to prevent scarcity and loss of profit during the key month for Childrenswear. All department sale is transferred out to outlet stores, or to stores where sale is still occurring due to increased customer flow and need to increase individual store profit. Holiday shop is transferred out of high street stores to shed store, where there is more space and more customer flow to sell the last of the stock.
September
School starts. Decreased customer flow in store. Autumn/Winter range launched in store. New mailer is sent out to customers, and incentives such as vouchers and promotional material online, and in magazines to advertise the new ‘Edit’.
July
October
Halloween and Christmas preparation.
November
Christmas lead up, promotion of ranges on television through adverts and in magazines. Christmas campaign launch with Alder Hey Charity, and Abbey Clancy.
December
Christmas lead up; sale prep for boxing day.
Decreased customer footfall, and morose weather, causes dip in profits which is to be expected. Visual Merchandising in store needs to showcase the new ranges for A/W, and reworking of departments to bring in customers who may not want to spend money but the VM team has to entice them to with attractive shop windows, and mannequins. Merchandisers must decrease amount of deliveries into store, and be aware of upcoming trends in Liverpool that could affect what lines are being sold and use the OTB option to prevent lack of availability in sizes in store. Homeware and Childrenswear must have full availability on Halloween themed products such as fancy dress, and homeware items for decoration. This is also a good time to prepare the shed store for Christmas. Christmas delivery will arrive and have an embargo placed on it until November 1st when it will be placed in store, and a Christmas department will be temporarily set up beside Homeware department. Visual Merchandising is important to promote the sale of themed goods.
‘Abbey’s Picks’ garments to be highlighted as important for availability in all stores, including the shed stores like Wavertree. VM team need to make space on the shop floor for the Christmas charity campaign. Any clothes that Abbey wears during promotion of the range, and items that she talks about on social media need to be monitored by each store and if store sells them well, transfer products from another store where it is not selling well; for example Liverpool stores will sell Abbey’s picks more than stores in N.Ireland and down South.
Christmas period build up; peak selling for best sellers, marketing strategies in full force. Stores need to prep for beginning of sale in mid-December. Increase in merchandiser allocation or products going into sale to optimise profits.
Key Events 2017: Store Grade B: Aintree (Retail Park)
Months
Events
Implications to Merchandising
Moving distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley Industrial Park.
Lack of stock arriving in store, causes loss in profit and staff directing customers online. Online traffic spikes, this causes delays in deliveries. Supply chain affected. Inter-store transfers of stock to alleviate lack of available products for each store. VM team have to change mannequins more frequently as availability in stockroom falls.
January February
Expansion of homeware department.
This reduces space for womenswear, menswear, and Childrenswear. VM team have to organise mannequins, and fixtures with team leaders. Merchandisers have to increase delivery of Homeware, over other department product allocation. This can disrupt the products available on other departments.
March
Launch event in Oxford Street store. Black card event in-store to launch the new ranges across all departments; goodie bags, DJ’s and photo booth.
Launch event in-store. This includes making sure all products for the launch are available in all sizes in store for this date. This is the opportunity for VM’s to build outfits for their customers to get ideas from, and showcase the trends of the season. Merchandisers have to be aware of different styles that might sell more in a retail park; for example, less trend focused items, more layering outfits.
April
Aintree racing; no customer phone calls handled during this time. Reduced car park spaces, increase in pedestrians.
Aintree racecourse is beside the retail park. Traffic will be at a standstill, no room in the retail park car park. Therefore all customer enquiries by phone will have to be reduced as there will be little room for customers to get to the store. VM team will have to have an Aintree Races mannequin display in all departments to increase profits during this time. Merchandisers will have to increase stock allocation of suits, and dresses to keep up with customer demand.
May
Early summer weather; unusually hot May.
Unusually hot weather increases sales of holiday items; vest tops, dresses, and shorts. The stock allocation needs to be increased immediately to prevent loss of customers and loss of profit for this store. VM team will have to change mannequins depending on what products are available, and change tables to allow for more stock to be displayed and therefore increase profits and size availability.
Summer sale.
Summer sale requires VM team in-store to move sections of each department to make way for the summer sale. Promotional adverts increase in print media and broadcast media. This will require merchandisers to increase allocation of stock so that all sales stock is available for larger stores to increase their profits over this peak shopping period.
June July
Summer sale and school holidays start.
School holidays starts for children, and this will increase footfall into Childrenswear. There will need to be an increase in fixtures on the shop floor to make way for the increase in Childrenswear deliveries. All Spring/Summer products will be pushed to the front of each department to increase profits and increase customer footfall into the store. VM team will have to change all mannequins to fit the Spring/Summer theme.
August
Back to school shopping begins. Holiday shop is condensed on all departments and moved to accommodate the new seasonal ranges for A/W.
Condensing of holiday shop in each department to make room for new season ranges. VM team will have to change mannequins to full price outfits. Back to school shop will increase and be placed at the front of the Childrenswear department. Delivery of A/W ‘Edit’ ranges will begin, and released at the beginning of the month.
September
School starts. Decreased customer flow in store. Autumn/Winter range launched in store. New mailer is sent out to customers, and incentives such as vouchers and promotional material online, and in magazines to advertise the new ‘Edit’.
With lack of customer footfall in the store due to change in weather, mood, and a new term beginning. VM team has to use the new ranges to create an enticing aesthetic for the customer to come into store and spend money. Merchandisers will decrease rate of deliveries, and will replenish size availability when necessary.
Halloween and Christmas preparation.
Christmas Homeware arrives in store. This is placed on shop floor during night shifts. Halloween products; fancy dress and homeware items, are placed in store. Product of the week introduced to increase sales. Merchandisers place deliveries to stores with size allocation across all ranges to increase availability of sizes during this period.
November
Christmas lead up, promotion of ranges on television through adverts and in magazines. Christmas campaign launch with Alder Hey Charity, and Abbey Clancy.
Delivery of products from the ‘Edit’ that are being heavily promoted online, in media, and by Abbey Clancy. Full availability of this range needs to be priority. Also, the launch of the charity campaign needs to be included in the new VM guide for each store. Aintree will have to move their departments slightly to make room for the new charity products.
December
Christmas lead up; sale prep for boxing day.
Christmas sales prep begins with night shifts. Merchandisers send daily deliveries of stock to provide full availability.
October
Key Events 2017: Store Grade C: Oxford Street (High Street Store)
Months
Events
Implications to Merchandising
Moving distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley Industrial Park.
This causes disruption for the Oxford Street Store as this can affect the amount of stock available on the largest high streets in the world. Merchandisers will have to transfer stock from shed stores outside of London to increase the stock available to tourists visiting the store, and increased footfall during the January period.
January Valentines Day and Half Term
February
Valentines Day promotions in store include POS for departments, changing the mannequins to fit the theme of Valentines Day for a week leading up to the event. This could increase sales, and increase customer footfall as other retailers compete to bring in customers for that one day event. Merchandisers will have to increase products they know will sell; nightwear, womenswear accessories etc.
March
Launch event in Oxford Street store. Black card event in-store to launch the new ranges across all departments; goodie bags, DJ’s and photo booth.
Launch event with celebrity invites, and press. This requires all sizes available for all ranges in the Edit, and also across all sections of the department. This needs to be a positive showcase. VM team will have to make sure outfits are trend focused, accurate to what is available to customers.
April
London Marathon.
The London Marathon will increase customer footfall into store, but also be difficult for deliveries and ad hoc transfers from other stores. VM could use this opportunity to promote Souluxe in store. Vouchers could be handed out outside, to promote the forthcoming mid-season sale.
Mid-season sale.
Mid season sale, promoting previous stock before the new spring/summer launch. This will include moving departments to make room for sale fixtures etc. Merchandisers will have to provide majority of sale stock to Oxford within the area, as it is a bigger store with more customer footfall.
Summer sale.
Summer sale begins. All sale stock moved to the front of the store to entice passing customers. Flyers handed out outside of store. VM team to change mannequins to make sure no sale stock is on the mannequin. Merchandisers make sure that there is enough sale stock being sent to the main high street stores to utilise their space and their location.
Summer sale and school holidays start.
Summer sale continues, and school’s have finished across England. New stock for Childrenswear has to be placed on mannequins, and new stock across all department advertised with flyers and in the mailer. The increase in footfall requires an increase in stock allocation compared to other stores in the area.
May June July
Buckingham Palace summer opening. Nottingham Carnival. August Bank Holiday.
Buckingham Palace opening will bring in more customers, as will the August bank holiday. VM team have to dress window displays and mannequins on each department accordingly to suit the trends seen in London and to fit the weather outlook. Merchandisers will have to increase summer specific items like bandeaus, accessories, footwear, t-shirts and shorts.
School starts. Decreased customer flow in store. Autumn/Winter range launched in store. New mailer is sent out to customers, and incentives such as vouchers and promotional material online, and in magazines to advertise the new ‘Edit’.
School starts, not a lot of tourists walking into the Oxford Street store. Vouchers sent out to customer card holders bring in customers to store, but sales are generally low. Merchandisers increase deliveries for the Edit range, as the promotional marketing begins in full force.
Oktoberfest, and Halloween.
Tourists come to London. Increase in customer footfall into store. VM changes mannequins to suit the autumn theme. Increase in Homeware deliveries for Halloween and Halloween costumers are pushed to the forefront of the Childrenswear department.
November
Christmas lead up, promotion of ranges on television through adverts and in magazines. Christmas campaign launch with Alder Hey Charity, and Abbey Clancy.
Increased lead up to Christmas in London includes an increase in customer footfall. Christmas lights switch on increases customer footfall into the store, this is pre-empted with increasing of deliveries to the store the week before to prevent customers going to competitors on the high street. Christmas campaign launches. VM team make room for the Christmas charity campaign, and also push the Edit to the front of the departments
December
Christmas lead up; sale prep for boxing day.
Christmas sales start Boxing Day, therefore this will be a huge event for Oxford Street. Merchandisers will increase delivery to the store, and transfer the most sale items from distribution to Oxford Street.
August September October
Key Events 2017: Store Grade D: Liverpool Williamson Square (Small High Street Store)
Months
Events
Implications to Merchandising
January
Moving distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley Industrial Park.
Availability in core lines is low, and really low for Edit range. Shed stores like Wavertree will have to transfer products to Williamson Square in order to keep up with customer demand, and to keep the profits up.
February
Valentines Day and Half Term
March
Launch event in Oxford Street store. Black card event in-store to launch the new ranges across all departments; goodie bags, DJ’s and photo booth.
April
Grand National Racing
May
Mid-season sale. Homeware introduced as a new department
June
Summer sale.
July August September
Summer sale and school holidays start.
Tail end of Summer Sale. Delivery of A/W stock into store ready for launch.
School starts. Decreased customer flow in store. Autumn/Winter range launched in store. New mailer is sent out to customers, and incentives such as vouchers and promotional material online, and in magazines to advertise the new ‘Edit’.
October
Halloween
November
Christmas lead up, promotion of ranges on television through adverts and in magazines. Christmas campaign launch with Alder Hey Charity, and Abbey Clancy.
December
Christmas lead up; sale prep for boxing day.
Valentines Day VM in the Essentials department; pyjamas, candles, etc. Half Term starts for children, this will induce high footfall into the store, especially into the Childrenswear department. Therefore, all availability of stock needs to be available, and mannequins needs to be dressed to increase profits throughout the department. Stock allocation from Head Office needs to be accurate. Launch event in-store across the country. Williamson Square will have a DJ, modelling from staff of the new range, goodie bags will be given out to invited Matalan black card holders. Merchandising will have to accommodate any increase in sales during this time, and VM will have to showcase the new range to a wide variety of customers, of different genders and ages. Aintree races starts. A lot of tourists come into the city centre to shop, see the sights. This is the optimal time for this store to increase its profits. VM must create a delectable array of dressed mannequins in order to promote the range for the Grand National, with suits in menswear, and dresses in womenswear. Head Office merchandiser stock allocation will have to be aware of this event across Merseyside when allocating stock for deliveries.
Store layout will have to change in order for customer flow to be directed to the back of the store where the sale is located. This is to keep the Edit at the front of the store, alongside the holiday shop and increase the profits of the full price items before the summer sale begins in earnest. Merchandisers will not have to transfer sale stock, but will have to be aware of falling availability for full price items. Homeware will take up space from menswear, this will decrease space on menswear and reduce profits. Summer sale is in full force. Full price products are placed at the back of the store, sale at the front. Merchandisers from Head Office send products that will be on sale to the store to be placed in the sale night before launch date. The VM team will have to dress mannequins so that there are no sale items on mannequins in the windows or in store itself.
School holidays begin. From previous experience in store there will be an increase in customer footfall into the store from mum’s and children. Therefore merchandising will have to increase the stock allocation of Childrenswear so that the store has a window of opportunity to increase sales during that period. VM team will have to dress the mannequins to increase the basket of each customer when they go to the till. Merchandisers will send the new A/W range into store to be kept off the shop floor until the launch date, and until sale is removed from the shop floor. Last sale stock is transferred to shed stores to be sold at a quicker rate due to the space available to them. The VM team must plan a strategy using the VM guide from Head Office in order to make the clothes from the range appealing to the Matalan customer. Increase in uniform into the store for Childrenswear, a fixture will have to be set aside for this by the VM team as this store does not always carry uniforms, only during key points of the year. New A/W range is launched in store, and a mailer is sent out to customers with adverts for the new range online and in magazines. Store prepares for a large increase in customer footfall, merchandisers must be aware of the opportunities to increase sales during this time as competitors also launch their A/W ranges. This Matalan has a Homeware department as of May 2016, so there is more space to include more Halloween and autumnal themed products in the Homeware department. This can increase deliveries from the distribution centre, and reduce the amount of space in the stock room for other department products. There will be deliveries of fancy dress for Childrenswear, and this will have to be merchandised on the shop floor by the VM team to make the quickest amount of profit in the shortest amount of time. Christmas promotions, using leaflets to bring in customers from the street outside. Television advert for Christmas campaign begins. VM team have to theme the mannequins in the shop window with the POS and M2’s that Head Office has sent them. Stock allocation is important during this period as more people shop for their friends and families Christmas gifts and also come in to buy from the new Edit range.
Christmas sales prep begins. Head Office merchandisers send products on sale to store to bulk the sale fixtures.
Key Events 2017: Store Grade E: Online
Months
Events
Implications to Merchandising
Moving distribution centre from Skelmsdale to Knowsley Industrial Park.
Moving distribution centres puts a halt on the steady consistent home deliveries to homes. This will drive customers into stores where a similar delivery problem of stock is one of the main issues with the prolonged move.
January Valentines Day and Half Term
February March
Launch event for new range for S/S 2017
April
Online sale only.
May
Mid-season sale.
June July August September October November December
Summer sale in-store only
Summer sale and school holidays start.
Tail end of Summer Sale. Delivery of A/W stock into store ready for launch.
A/W range launched. New school term starts. Drop in in-store customer footfall, increase customer traffic online.
Halloween
Online promotions, and through social media, promoting products for Valentines Day. Uniform promotions online on the front page of the website, in line with the new spring term and young girls wearing school summer dresses and boys wearing polo shirts. Online launch of the new range. Promoted on social media, and in print and broadcast media. This increases customer traffic to the online website. Merchandisers will have to have the correct quantity available for the online website, using sophisticated monitoring applications to monitor who is shopping and what they are buying. Mid season sale starts exclusively online to pique interest from the customer and to also unload the stock that has not sold in the past few months. The merchandisers will have a set number of sizes allocated for online sales. Any product that sells out will not be replenished, instead customers will be directed instore.
Mid season sale continues, with promotions in-store at the till with free delivery to store an incentive to shop online for the customer. Summer sale is in-store only, to increase the customer footfall and increase profits with each individual store. The online website will sell the new season products, and full price products only. Summer sale continues in-store. School holidays begin; Childrenswear will have a promotion on the front page of the website to make customers aware of the new Childrenswear range, and increase profits for the company during a particular busy period in-store. Sale ends in store at the end of the month. The A/W range is launched online first, and then in-store the next day. The new Edit will have a lot of promotion online, social media and in print and broadcast media. Merchandisers will have a set amount allocated for online only, and then if this dwindles, there will have to be an increase in stock and stock transferred from the store to the distribution centre again. A/W range launches online before launching in-store. There is increased traffic online. In order to restore the balance, there is an in-store incentive to increase ‘click and collect’ orders to bring the customer into the store. Merchandising increase the stock available for online as opposed to in-store to prevent loss of sales and to keep size availability high.
Not all stores will have a Halloween section due to floor space constraints, therefore there will be an increase of stock allocation online.
Christmas marketing campaign begins online, in store, in print and broadcast media.
Christmas shop opens online, and advertisements for the Matalan Christmas campaign begin at the end of November. Merchandising will keep the stock high on the A/W range and the Christmas themed products.
Christmas lead up; Sale launch on Boxing Day.
Sale launches online and in-store. Online stock allocation of sale is not as high as in-store, to keep a steady flow of customers visiting the store.
Key Events 2017 Critical Analysis
The key events that I have spoken about include four different grades of stores; grade A for a shed store (out of town, bigger, and with a car park), grade B for a retail park (a small unit among many with car park spaces available, grade C for a flagship store (has many floors for different departments, no car park space), grade D for a smaller high street store (mainly high street clothing, not a lot of options available due to size of the unit), and grade E for online. I have taken into account the many different events that could affect the merchandisers in store and the merchandising team in Head Office in regards to stock allocation and availability of sizes, and sale lines. I have looked at the Wavertree store for the shed store, as this is one of the larger Matalan shed stores in Liverpool and I have visited this store frequently. There is an access road that is currently part of a regeneration project to create
Matalan Grade A Store, Wavertree, Liverpool
clear access to the city centre, and this can cause issues with traffic build up and access to the store. This is what I
Matalan Grade B Store, Aintree, Liverpool
have taken into account with the Aintree retail park, a grade B store, as there is similar infrastructure issues that can cause traffic build up, especially during the Grand National. The Oxford Street flagship store is the one of the two new high street stores that Matalan have opened in the past two years, and its central location will involve a lot of heavy customer footfall compared to the other stores due to the fact it is on the most prominent high street’s in the world. The smaller high street store, a grade D store, is Williamson Square, which is one floor as opposed to the other high street stores like Oxford Street and Cardiff, where they have multiple floors for different departments. The lack of space makes merchandising more difficult, and harder for the visual merchandising team to showcase the different ranges available to each customer from each department.
Matalan Grade C Store, Oxford Street, Liverpool
Launch events would take place in Oxford Street, which would make it a prominent feature when discussing
Matalan Grade D Store, Williamson Square, Liverpool
allocating, and transferring of stock from shed stores in the surrounding area. Grade E is the online store, which would require specific allocation of stock due to online exclusive sales, and with store sales advisors that promote
click and collect (free delivery from online to store), this could put a stress on the online supply chain. It is important to be aware of the logistical differences that affect the merchandisers in Head Office and the visual team in store. There are different events both positive and negative that can affect stock allocation, launch dates, and promotion of ranges. Matalan Grade E Store, Online
Business Plan: Marketing Strategies
Womenswear Menswear
Marketing Strategies
Advertisement: • Famous sportsman, or musician that the 25-35 market can relate to.
Older celebrities, house hold names; mothers, countryside setting, English summer fete.
Womenswear Accessories Festival theme with YouTube and Instagram stars promoting the range.
Business Plan: Marketing Strategies for Cath Kidston for Soon at Matalan Womenswear Representatives for Cath Kidston ‘Soon’ range S/S 2017
Tamsin
45
Tess
Davina
47
48
Active Social Media Celebrities Using Tamsin Outhwaite, Tess Daly, and Davina McCall as Social Media stars for this range will help promote the range to the correct target market across the UK. Tess Daly is well known for Strictly Come Dancing, Tamsin is a well known soap and stage star, and Davina is a hard working mother who is on social media, and on television throughout the year.
Launch the ranges with the three designers attending the event, and fashion magazine writers attending the event the day before the VIP black card event the day after the Oxford Street celebrity launch. The VIP event occurring in other stores the night after, will be for the general public.
Business Plan: Marketing Strategies for Paul Smith for Matalan Menswear
Representatives for the Paul Smith Menswear Collaboration Range
Leighton Baines
Jordan Henderson
Charity Match for Alder Hey & NSPCC 31
25
Both England players, and prominent players for both Merseyside football clubs. Both use social media, and are good positive role models as family men, friends, and celebrities.
The charity match will be held in either Anfield or Goodison Park to raise money for Alder Hey and NSPCC and will include a half-time fashion show with the reserves from both teams modelling the new Paul Smith for Matalan range. The players playing for both teams will be given the blue suit from the range to wear before the game, and after the game for press interviews. The match will be shown on ITV2, as ITV have announced in May 2016 that they have a sponsorship with Matalan and so this would coincide with this new business arrangement. The charity match could include a mix of professional footballers who play for Liverpool and Everton and England, as well as retired footballers, and celebrity fans of Liverpool and Everton. The revenue gained from the match day ticket will go to Alder Hey and the NSPCC, with an equal share of 50% each.
Business Plan: Marketing Strategies for Erdem for Matalan Footwear and Accessories Gracie Francesca (GraceFVictory) Zoe Sugg (Zoella)
26
25
The target market for this range is between 18-25. However the two key social media celebrities that I have chosen as the buyer to promote this range are between 25 and 26, but their followers are between 18-25. Both of these beauty and fashion bloggers discuss relationship problems, inner beauty, mental health, and healthy eating. They will be good role models for Matalan, and their personal style reflects the Erdem for Matalan Footwear and Accessories range for S/S 2017.
YouTube Vlog:
Facebook Live: Livestream the press launch at Somerset House.
Vlog their day and the products for their YouTube channel.
Live Tweet: Tweet live from the ‘Frow’ (Front row) of the press launch.
Press Launch: London Fashion Week at Somerset House
The ‘Design Collective’ fashion event will be each designer collaboration shown on the catwalk at Somerset House in London, that recently showed the current Spring/Summer 2016 press launch for Matalan. There will be invites sent to numerous celebrities, and social media celebrities, as well as invites sent to Radio One DJ’s like Nick Grimshaw. All of the celebrities will be encouraged to tweet and take photographs of the range as they watch the fashion show, and also when they go to another ten where the clothes will be on rails to feel, look at closely and also take a goodie bag of clothes home to take home with them. The hash tag #MatalanSpringSummer17 will be used by everyone at the press event, and also to help encourage the public to follow the show, and the release of images and videos from the show. It will be fun, with a lot of fun family friendly music played, and the catwalk will have happy, smiling, models, of all ages, showcasing the three ranges to the public.
Mailer Launch: Leaflet, Promotional Material
This leaflet will be handed out in store at the till points a week before the launch date, in order to let customers know what is arriving in store. The Design Collective Launch March 26th 2017. In store and Online!
NEW ARRIVALS! The Design Collective
Point of Sale Example
Style Mood Board: Paul Smith for Menswear, Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’, and Erdem for Women’s Accessories
Paul Smith for Matalan Menswear
Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan
Erdem for Matalan Women’s Footwear and Accessories
Cath Kidston for Soon at Matalan: Evaluate organisational and production requirements for suggested designs and garments for garments in your ranges. Develop a commercially viable fashion range to a specific brief demonstrating industry professional practices and procedures.
Product
Organisational Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Production Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
This trench coat is composed of 100% viscose. This material is not synthetic, it is created from wood pulp. It is similar to cotton and linen in its composition properties. This makes it based from raw material, but requires expensive costs to produce the cellulose fibre to then create the product. It can affect an organisation's environmental ethics in regards to the damage the production of viscose attributes to water and air pollution. Viscose has absorbent properties that can be tested by the quality control team, this makes it a good choice for a spring/summer fabric, however it does not bode well when wet, as it tends to shrink and wrinkle. This means that it should be introduced as a fashion trench coat, as opposed to a coat that has waterproof or utility properties. It is also flammable, and there are regulations that prevent the use of viscose in Childrenswear, and for specific items such as jumpers etc. This means that there will need to be testing involve in regards to its flammability as a product, and its ability to withstand the summer heat.
Production requirements would include using a company to test the fabric before it was put into production. There are private companies that could do this, and in turn reassure Head Office that their choice of material was suitable to be sold in the EU and other countries. An instrument that could be used to test that the fabric was fit for purpose would be the forced hot air ovens, which test the effectiveness of the materials in high temperatures. This can help procure information regarding the viscose and the viscose pattern designs can be sent into production. High Street (1) is a Leeds based company with offices around the world that specialise in testing of fabrics; they also provide audits, inspections, and fabric testing on a range of different materials.
It is important that the trousers are fit for purpose, and there are no faults that could affect the saleability of this product; for example the trousers must fit the design specifications for each size that is made available. The zip must have a structure that does not cause it to unzip when sitting down, and the seams must be strong enough to be worn for a long time without pulling apart. Matalan’s quality control team should check the samples are correct and the fit is in line with their design specification; they will use a fit model to determine whether the sample will go into bulk garment production. The fabric chosen will come from a sample archive. Quality control will also test the colour dyes, and how the fabric takes the colour and the balance of the colour.
The production requirements for this product include the Head Office and quality control team using instruments such as ‘lightboxes’ (2) to test colour quality under variant strengths of light, and also using a ‘perspirometer’ (2) to check the colour doesn’t transfer in run when in contact with water, or sweat. A ‘crockmeter’ (2) could also be used to find out whether the colour is transferable when wet or dry, and rubbed together. This can help determine the instructions on the care label, and prevent faults in the product, and also help the buyers, designers, and quality control team, find out about the strength of the fabric and the flexibility of it under numerous conditions, if it become affected by it, there is a chance to prevent that material from being used in the production of the product, but it could affect the lead times and critical path. The production might slow down, and further testing advised for future uses of cotton, dyes, and this design specification.
This shirt dress has a lot of buttons, and a tie waist. The organisational requirements for this garment could include testing the strength of the button that would be chosen to be used in the production. The button has to withstand the power of a washing machine, hand washing, and be placed under strenuous conditions to test the longevity of the embellishments and material. With this design in particular there is a lot of seam work, and overlocking, and this may need to be tested in case it comes apart through wear and tear, or poor quality from the selection of the material including the thread. The Head Office Buying team will have to liaise with the QC team to check they have chosen the correct buttons, and fabric, that will prevent any loss in profit if the garment is returned due to faults with the sourcing of the fabric.
The shirt dress will have to be produced by a supplier with highly skilled workers and/or machinery that can sew buttons on correctly with no faults that could cause a loss in a product from the production line. There will also have to be workers who could follow complex technical design packs sent to them by the Head Office. This shirt dress is made solely of a patterned fabric, therefore the pattern has to match on each piece of the shirt dress which could require a keen eye from a worker within the factory to check that each piece of the garment is matched correctly before being put through an industrial sewing machine.
This peplum blouse is made from 100% viscose, and can be flammable in direct heat. This fabric will have to have testing to make the fabric wearable in the summer heat. Viscose does not have a lot of give, and is similar to linen and cotton, therefore the design team in Matalan Head Office might have to increase the measurements slightly for the size specifications so that the customer will feel more comfortable, and the design does not succumb to wear and tear due to it being too tight, or shrinking in the washing machine. This could be assessed with the QC team.
The production requirements for this garment include making sure the pattern matches each piece of the garment before it is put through an industrial machine. It also has to be tested to make sure that the peplum will not lose its shape due to overuse, or washing in different temperatures. This could be tested be a private company like High Street, to give the Head Office reassurance that their product will not succumb to poor quality of a certain amount of time, and therefore will not be returned, and profit will not decrease. The blouse, similar to the shirt dress, require a high skill of technical abilities in regards to sewing and design. Therefore, the choice of supplier will have to be sourced from a country that specialises in this garment; for this garment the country of origin is Bangladesh. Bangladesh are frequently used in industrial retail production, and as the buyer for this range I would be sent to audit particular suppliers that have been used by Matalan before, and supplier that may not have, in order to make an informed decision as to where the production of the garment would be ordered from.
Paul Smith for Menswear at Matalan: Evaluate organisational and production requirements for suggested designs and garments for garments in your ranges. Develop a commercially viable fashion range to a specific brief demonstrating industry professional practices and procedures.
Product
Organisational Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Production Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
The use of print in this particular garment will require the QC team to make sure that this print does not differ in quality from the rest of the garment. There may need to be a specific production method to dye the product and preserve the print on the material used, which is cotton. This could require numerous testing of colour dyes, colour transfer, and the use of cool and hot washes. There is also a need to check which buttons will be used in the production of this garment, and to check they do not come lose, and the correct composition is chosen for the buttons that are cost effective, and do not damage customer’s property.
The production requirements include a supplier that can produce the pattern and produce the other sections of the garment, and bring the two sections together without damaging the product. The same method must be used for the vertical pattern strip along the torso, with the buttons used. This could require a sophisticated machinery to protect the quality of the fabric, and the integrity of the design specifications. Testing that could occur include checking that there is no dye transfer using an instrument to test the cellulose for oil that could create a transference of colour between the pattern, fabric, and skin. An oil extraction instrument can prevent any customer’s complaining about dye transfer from the garment onto their skin, and thus prevent a law suit.
Creating footwear for any range requires a footwear technologist within the Head Office to help design the specifications for each individual design of footwear. There are a number of tests that can be conducted in a Head Office environment prior to the selection of materials for the footwear design that is chosen. There are private companies like SATRA (3) that can help retail companies to conduct testing of materials, plastics, and give an idea of the longevity of the sample that is created of the footwear, through testing in controlled conditions. This is a positive way to help devise any alterations that could be made when sending out the design packs to prospective suppliers.
Production requirements for producing any kind of footwear, especially footwear that is described as a trainer, has to be specific. For instance, there must be a supplier sourced in a country with experience in athletic wear and in design of footwear. For this garment the country of origin that was chosen was China. This was because it could be more cost effective to produce a footwear product in China, where it can also be tested in sophisticated sample rooms and instruments that could test the wear and tear that may occur through general use of the customer.
The short suit is a new garment to the range, and to Matalan Menswear. Due to it being a new garment, there will be new design specifications that will need to be followed and new suppliers may need to be sourced, and current suppliers may need to be audited to check that they can produce this garment to a high standard. The QC at Head Office will organise a trip to the supplier, and audit the sample room and the quality of the industrial machinery. This will then give them an informed idea as to which supplier is best suited to create this garment, within the time they give them.
The supplier chosen to produce this garment in a bulk quantity, will have to have the resources the produce a sample of what they finished design would look like, and the time it would take to create the garment in bulk with the specific design specifications. This design in particular must be accurate in it’s execution, as this is a two part set. A two part set should be of equal quality, and design. For instance, the pattern on the waistband, and the pattern on the pockets, must be the same and consistent through the entire production line. This can be difficult, and therefore the QC room in the factory must be sufficient to check that the design is correct and consistent, and if any faults arise, the Head Office QC team are made aware of it before production is finished. The short suit must be of a higher quality, due to the fact the customer would be wearing it to special occasions and the garment must look more expensive than it is to provide the customer with a greater value.
The vest top has a graphic print on the front, and has a pattern along the edge of the garment. This will need to be tested due to multiple colours being used during the manufacturing of the product. The colours used will be multiple, and therefore multiple tests will have to be conducted to check the safety of the colours again skin, and make sure there are no reactions that could occur when washing the product. This can be conducted by the QC team at Head Office, and the Buying team will be advised of the outcome in case they have to change the quantity of the product, the price, or the care label. The sample archive at Head Office should help in the decision regarding what fabric will be used, and what test can be conducted on it.
Due to the rigorous testing that has occurred at Head Office, and through the hiring of private fabric testing companies like SATRA (3), there is a requirement of the supplier to be able to both dye the product, produce the print at a high quality, and assemble the garment in a bulk setting. The supplier could be sourced through the use of audits from QC and Buyers from the Matalan Head Office, and also through negotiating a good deal with a supplier than is using highly skilled workers, and machinery in their production of the garments. The QC room must test the fabric, as this garment will be made from cotton which is an expensive commodity and therefore the production of this material will have to be careful in order to prevent faults occurring, wasting of raw materials, and therefore decrease in products available to be sold and thus a decrease in estimated profits.
Erdem for Footwear and Accessories at Matalan: Evaluate organisational and production requirements for suggested designs and garments for garments in your ranges. Develop a commercially viable fashion range to a specific brief demonstrating industry professional practices and procedures.
Product
Organisational Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Production Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
There is a requirement by the organisation in their Buying department for Footwear and Accessories that the materials they use undergo an amount of testing to the plastic, to make sure the materials do not shatter under intense heat or intense cold. This is a requirement because the sunglasses will be used in different temperatures. Moreover, the quality has to be important as cheap plastics may be more cost effective but may be returned more by the customer due to its poor quality. Therefore testing its strength is important before it goes into production.
The production requirement is important, as a supplier needs to be able to produce a bulk quantity of sunglasses using sophisticated industrial machinery, that can quickly and efficiently produce sunglasses in bulk quantity. The material will have to be water resistant, and this can be tested by the QC team from Head Office before they accept a contract with the supplier to produce the sunglasses. The sunglasses will be produced in China, where they have developed technology that can produce sunglasses with low production costs, but also preserving the quality of the product. This has been seen in a video that I have watched in the production of sunglasses (4).
Espadrilles are traditionally made in Northern Spain, using techniques from hundred of years ago. However, fast fashion retailers like Matalan must use a more cost effective way to produce Espadrilles in bulk for the ordinary consumer. The materials to create an Espadrille can be relatively cheap; fabric to cover the foot, woven straw for the outside of the shoe, and a rubber base. This requires testing to make sure that the Espadrille does not cause discomfort, rub against the foot, and the size specifications are correct for the consumer. The fabric will have to be tested for toughness, using the QC team and private companies such as SATRA, who are specialist in footwear technology testing.
India is the next biggest produce of footwear after China. Their production is vast, and their skill level makes this country a more cost effective source of production for footwear in this range. The requirements for the production of the Espadrilles includes the ability to follow technically sophisticated designs that include sewing, ribbon production for the laces, and the use of soft fabric as the foot cover. The QC room will be used to prevent any footwear being produced that has faults that could cause injury. There are strict health and safety laws that must be followed for footwear that came into place in 1999 (5). It is important that the QC team audit the suppliers to prevent faulty goods entering the supply chain.
The scarfs are in six variant patterns and colours. It is important that the scarfs are made from materials that are soft to touch, comfortable to wear, and dyes that are used that don’t transfer onto skin. The material used is polyester, Polyester is an extremely strong fabric, durable, and resistant to stretch, shrinking and resistant to most chemicals. It retains its shape, and is easily washed an dried. This is important in the sourcing of materials for scarfs, as it is important that the fabric used can be mass produced, and go through numerous methods of production including dyeing, and pattern printing. Fabric technologists in Head Office are responsible for sourcing this material in large quantities and sourcing different productions of the scarfs.
Production requirements include mass dyeing of the polyester fabric, cutting the fabric to a specific length, and making sure the dye is distributed equally. This can be difficult, time consuming, and it can also take time to dry the material after dyeing also. The factory has to have a safe way of deposing the chemical bi-product from bulk dyeing of the fabric, as well as industrial machines that help wash the finished product before it is packaged and shipped to the Matalan distribution centre.
The plastic materials used as the composition for the earrings make it more cost effective to produce, and easier to source industrial productions methods, than if it was of a metal composition. Using plastic makes the product more durable, therefore testing of the plastic would be similar to the tests on the sunglasses, and would not cost more to conduct tests. The earrings will be designed in Head Office, and materials tested by the QC team.
China was chosen as the country of origin for this piece from the accessories range, due to the cost effectiveness and industrial capabilities that China has in terms of factories, workers, and industrial equipment. The testing involved would include the formation of the coloured plastic, and if this would weaken the earrings, or if the colour would transfer onto the skin over time during continued use of the earrings by the customer. There is also a need to test that the use of plastic does not make the jewellery easily breakable by the customer, and therefore further testing to random earrings produced in the factory are checked in the QC room by the quality controller and regular visits are undertaken by the QC team from Head Office.
References (1) Hstts.co.uk. (2016). High Street Textile Testing Services Ltd :: About Us. [online] Available at: http://www.hstts.co.uk/pages/about_us [Accessed 20 May 2016]. (2) mezgerinc. (2016). Fabric Testing. [online] Available at: http://www.mezgerinc.com/Fabric_Testing.html [Accessed 20 May 2016].
(4) YouTube. (2016). made in china sunglasses. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV1iAFoZN6k [Accessed 20 May 2016]. (5) Ltd, B. (2016). Industrial Safety Footwear - A Step In The Right Direction | Health and Safety Middle East - The Middle East's ONLY magazine for employee protection and personal protective equipment. [online] Hsmemagazine.com. Available at: http://www.hsmemagazine.com/article.php?article_id=253 [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Swicofil.com. (2016). Viscose rayon - the oldest man made fiber - versatile fiber yarn. [online] Available at: http://www.swicofil.com/products/200viscose.html [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Whatispolyester.com. (2016). What is Polyester | What is Polyester. [online] Available at: http://www.whatispolyester.com/ [Accessed 20 May 2016]. YouTube. (2016). Jewelry Making Process - Part 3. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGE8PWeIVSs [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Satra.co.uk. (2016). Welcome to SATRA - the world's leading research and technology organisation for consumer products. [online] Available at: http://www.satra.co.uk/portal/index.php [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Ayling, J. (2011). Spotlight on...Turkey's apparel industry. [online] Just-style.com. Available at: http://www.just-style.com/analysis/spotlight-onturkeys-apparel-industry_id111043.aspx [Accessed 20 May 2016]. ETRetail.com. (2016). Indian Footwear Industry: A Perspective - Re-Tales by Adesh Gupta | ET Retail. [online] Available at: http://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/re-tales/indian-footwear-industry-aperspective/81 [Accessed 20 May 2016].
Cath Kidston for ‘Soon’ at Matalan Womenswear: Amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
Change the material from viscose to a waterproof fabric such as polyurethane, making it more practical may increase costs, but reduce chance of returns.
Remove the buttons to cut down on production costs. Instead of a shirt dress, the design could be altered so it is more cost effective and cheaper to make; using jersey cotton instead, causing production to be more efficient.
Instead of buttons have a zip, making it more practical for the older customer.
The pattern placement could be smaller, and more subtle; in case it causes indifference amongst customers.
Make this sleeveless making it more accessible to larger women.
Instead of a button and fly closure, this could be elasticated to provide extra comfort for the target customer.
The material used is cotton, but this could be changed to viscose; a more cost effective material and a material that is more suitable for the summer months.
Paul Smith for Matalan Menswear: Amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
Instead of laces, make it a slip on trainer; cut down on production costs, and looks more modern to customer.
Instead of a round collar, a contemporary Vneck collar would make it more appealing to the target marker of 2535 year olds. Have a smaller pattern on the pocket, instead of the sleeves. Reduces cost of printing fabric. Use a better quality fabric like Cotton or Linen, as this could help increase interest in product.
This could be a suit separated instead of a two piece, making it easier for customers to buy into; thus increase profit potential.
Instead of a racer back which could isolate customers; amend it to a full back and front.
Provide more colourways so they can be worn with the suits as well to update the ‘look’, for the younger target market.
Instead of the stripes on the front, remove them to make it more simplistic, and reduce cost of dyeing fabric.
Erdem for Matalan Women’s Accessories: Amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
Instead of a pattern, amend to a singular colour; more accessible to different consumers, and cheaper to produce.
Use a different material; instead of plastic, use metal. Stronger, and more luxurious.
Offer more colour options to increase profit potential.
Instead of plastic, use metal. Looks more luxurious; lasts longer but costs more to produce.
Instead of polyester, use jersey cotton; making it more versatile but could affect cost of production.
Instead of a ribbon to keep the shoe in place, replace the cutaways with full coverage.
Change the density of the fabric, make it thinner; half production time and is more cost effective to produce.
To prevent injury, amend the sole of the shoe to offer more support; make it thicker, which could inflate cost price.
Analysis: Amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
The products that I have chosen have technical requirements that could cause a lot of production issues, and amendments could be made to make them more cost effective, or to increase their quality. The trench coat from the womenswear range could be adapted to have a zip opening, as opposed to buttons, making it more practical and wearable for different women of different sizes. Moreover, the quality of the fabric could be changed to make it more waterproof, and more of a utility piece instead of a fashion piece. Using polyurethane would increase the cost of the range, but it could reduce the amount of returns by customers due to its longevity and practicality in the in-climate summer weather. Trousers are a key piece in every Matalan range, in every season, I know this through research and through working for the company on the shop floor. The amendments that I could make could include modifying the waist band, instead of a button and fly closure the design could be changed to an elasticated waist band as this could be more suitable for the target customer of 45 to 55, and make it more comfortable and easier to wear. This could reduce costs, but it could also increase the replenishment figure since this could become a best seller. Another amendment that could be made, could be changing the fabric so it is viscose instead of cotton, as this would be more suitable for the summer heat, but it could reduce the quality of the product. Viscose is a fabric that fits different sizes differently, as it does not have a stretch to the fibre, making the sizing not as good as if it were to be made in cotton for example. The shirt dress is another product that could be amended, as this is produced with a pattern. It could be difficult to make the pattern match along the seams, and it could cost time and money for the workers in the factory to align the pattern, this could cost time and money to monitor through quality control also. The pattern could be made smaller, or could be changed to a different pattern to make it easier to manufacture. The dress could be changed from a shirtdress design to a plain pattern dress made out of jersey cotton. This fabric change could reduce the cost of production, and make it more suitable for customers of various sizes as jersey cotton can stretch and could be more comfortable than if it were made from polyester or viscose. The peplum pattern blouse could be amended to make it more suitable for the target market; making the blouse sleeveless could keep it a spring/summer product but also make it more comfortable for larger women to wear, and also the target customer to wear in the hot summer months.
The blouse has buttons, and these could be removed to make it more comfortable for the target market, and also make it more comfortable for women with a larger bust to wear. The amendments to the womenswear range are mainly to include more customers, and to make the products more comfortable for the target market. Not only could it decrease costs, but it could also prevent returns in regards to customers not being satisfied with the product when they wear it. It is important that the customer is happy, and satisfied with the look of the product as well as the quality. The products that I have chosen from the menswear range that could be amended include the polo shirt. Instead of a round collar, the design could be changed to include a V-neck design that could reflect the target market trend that has been seen in the spring/summer months on the street and on television shows like Geordie Shore, and The Only Way Is Essex. There is a pattern on the pocket as well as on the sleeves, and this could reduce the production costs, as there would not need to be an extensive amount of pattern printing on the fabric, and this could reduce the production lead time. Another product that I have chosen to critically analyse is the summer short suit. This suit could be sold separately as opposed to a set, as this could reduce the amount of returns of the product. Customers may be a different size on top than on the bottom, and therefore the cost of the returns could affect overall profits for this product. A better quality fabric could be used, like linen or cotton, which could give the effect of a better quality product, and could increase sales and overall profits. The trainers could be amended to be a slip on trainer instead, reducing the amount of time in production to produce the laces, and add extra details to the laced up trainer. Not only would the slip on trainer be more cost effective, it could appeal to the younger end of the target market, and due to the cost effectiveness of a slip on shoe there could be an opportunity to include more colourways for the product. Providing more colourways for the products could increase the amount of outfits that could be created with the range, and this could in turn increase profits. The graphic vest could be amended to include a full cover back, instead of a racer back design, which could appeal to more customers and make it more suitable for different men of different sizes in the summer months. This may increase costs due to an increase in fabric in the design, but this could be a positive amendment that could increase sales as it could be more appealing to different customers. The stripe design on the front of the graphic vest could be removed, and the vest could have the simple pattern along the binding of the edge of the vest. This could reduce the costs as fewer materials will have to be dyed and cut separate from the bulk fabric colour, but it may reduce sales due to its overall simplicity. The amendments of the four products from the menswear range could increase sales due to the fact it could increase the amount of people that the range is targeting, and therefore this could increase sales of the range. I have chosen four products from the accessories range that I could amend; the first product is the round sunglasses. The first amendment could include using a block colour instead of a pattern, as this could reduce costs, and more colourways could be produced due to the reduce in cost of manufacturing. To improve the quality of the product the material could be amended to include a stronger metal product, making the product more durable and make it appear more luxurious. This could entice the young target customer. Another product that could be amended could be the scarf. The scarf is currently produced using polyester, but this could be changed to jersey cotton. This could make the product more versatile, and easier to clean. It can also be used as a warming scarf when the weather changes. However, it could affect the luxury appearance of the scarf, as polyester can appear to look like a higher quality fabric. The jersey cotton could reduce the cost of the scarf, and increase the colourway options. The third product is the earrings. The earrings are currently manufactured from plastic, but this could be less durable than metal if the design was to be amended. However, this increase the costs of the production, and therefore the RRP may have to be increase to counter-act this amendment. Although, it could increase the sales due to its more luxurious appearance. The final amendment could be to the espadrilles. To prevent injury, and amendment could be made to the sole to improve its durability and decrease a chance of injury to the customer as this could cause the product to be recalled. This could increase the production costs of the product, but could prevent a recall in future if the design specification is amended. The ribbons could be could be removed, and the cutaways also, to a fuller coverage of the espadrilles. This could increase the costs, and the RRP, but it could make the shoe more durable and easier to wear with different outfits throughout the spring/summer months.
To conclude, the amendments for all the ranges could benefit the customer, and could increase the reassurance that the customer has with the Matalan brand. It could improve the quality of the products that Matalan sell, but it increase the profits. The amendments would have to be subtle to prevent sales from decreasing, due to the price increasing.
Evaluation
This unit started with a brief from Matalan Head Office; they asked the group to fulfil a brief for the womenswear department spring/summer 2017 range. This required a lot of forecasting in a short amount of time, similar to the role of a buyer. The group pitched their ideas together in the classroom, and we were able to critique each others work whilst also learning about how we could improve our own ideas and presentation skills. This pitch took place at Matalan Head Office where Melissa Hughes; the head of recruitment and one of the womenswear buyers sat in a meeting room and listened to everyone’s pitch. Alice, Faye, and I, were chosen as the winners and we won the opportunity to complete work experience at Head Office during the summer. This was a great day to meet the head of recruitment, and two members of the buying team, and showcase everything that I had learnt about buying and merchandising. The final major project started after half term, and I decided to choose Matalan as the brand that I would use to develop three ranges for three separate departments. The three departments that I chose were Menswear, Soon, and Women’s
Accessories; I chose them because I have worked in Matalan for over two years, and knew that I could find a niche in each department. I also wanted to use this FMP to explore different collaborations, to not only increase my development as a prospective buyer by using designers which I had not used in the previous two units. The first thing that I started was to develop a proposal for my FMP and then created an action plan, in a way they became my personal lead times for this project. I had to space them out appropriately so I would give myself time to complete the key points in the creation of the FMP. This helped me develop my time-management skills. I was able to ‘strike’ out each task that I had completed and also re-arrange tasks that I felt were not necessary or I had no time to complete.; for instance I was not able to complete a street style Instagram trend forecast. I had already completed a Matalan history for the Matalan Head Office brief, so I included this at the beginning of my FMP as I did not want to waste time repeating myself.
I completed a PESTLE, as I felt this was an important step in my understanding of the Matalan brand, and the economical, political, and environmental side effects that external and internal factors create for Matalan. I used my in-store experience, and knowledge, to fully investigate key points surrounding the Matalan brand, and this helped me find out the structure of their ranges, and the direction that the company is taking, as this could affect the budget I would have as a buyer for this company and affect the designs that I would choose due to cost constraints. I found that their new Oxford Street store developed staff training techniques using technology to help the staff understand the surroundings of Oxford Street, including Matalan’s competitors and how their visual merchandising affects customer spending behaviour. I conducted three SWOT’s about each department where I would develop a range. The first SWOT was about the womenswear department, and the strengths which included; attracting the whole family through the female shopper, as I read an article on retail week, (Retail Week, Becky Waller-Davies, Feb 2016) that stated that Matalan needed to develop more appealable ranges for their core customer. This is where the idea for a range from sub-brand ‘Soon’ came to place, as I
felt like I could develop this sub-brand to make it more noticeable within the Matalan store. I felt that developing a sub-brand within Matalan would offer me more opportunities as a buyer to develop my skills and give me room to be creative. A completed a similar SWOT for the accessories range, and found through working in the footwear and accessories range that there was not much room to improve the department but there was an opportunity to create a more ‘balanced’ range, and introduce a collaboration with a designer that would increase the positive developments that Matalan’s women’s footwear and accessories department has seen in recent times. I acknowledged there were a lot of threats from other high street stores, as the competitive shop that I completed later on helped me understand that a lot of Matalan’s competitors produced similar products that were both trend focused, competitive in price, and design. Therefore, introducing a designer would help the brand awareness of Matalan and could help increase exposure of Matalan within the retail industry. The menswear SWOT already compounded my beliefs and findings through working instore in Matalan that menswear was weak in design, execution, and advertising of their ranges. The core customer was always satisfied with core products and best sellers that appeared frequently in each consecutive season. However, the
menswear department was lacking in trend focused designs, and appealing to a younger target market. The competitive shop also helped to highlight the different styles that are popular with similar high street brands, and this gave me an idea to develop a collaboration with Paul Smith who is popular within the menswear design industry, and also in popular culture for his bright designs, casual suits, and ability to appeal to a wide range of men’s customers. The competitive shops that I completed for all three ranges helped me find out how each competitor develops ideas from the catwalk and appeal to the masses. It also helped me to compare as the buyer for Matalan how the price ranges change, and how the fabric in some cases does not. This helped me re-affirm the pathway I would take with each range, which was to provide good value products that are similar to other high street stores, but without the inflated prices.
Evaluation
I visited the Cath Kidston store in Liverpool One, and took primary photographs to help me understand the visual aspect of the store, including how their clothes were put together on mannequins, and how the store reflected a cute and kitsch village store to reflect the aesthetic of the brand. I found this to be quite clever, as Cath Kidston is a successful brand, but their choice of store placement helps to create an atmosphere for each customer that they are not buying from a huge retailer, but from a store they could compare to a local village store. This helped me develop the lookbook which I created for this range, and the concept for the range also. I completed a SWOT analysis on Cath Kidston, Paul Smith, and Erdem; the three designers that I chose to develop three ranges with for Matalan. This helped me understand what happened behind the scenes. I also tried to communicate with Cath Kidston, but they failed to return my emails and my letter. Therefore I used the internet to continue my research. I did the same for Paul Smith, and Erdem. In each case I found out a lot of information about each of the designers that I did not know before. It intrigued my interest, and I felt as if I could now undertake trend forecasting with the ideal customer in mind. The trend forecasting was an important part of the development of the three ranges. I wanted to explore fabrics more so than I did in the previous two units because I wanted to learn more about sourcing and more about particular fabrics. I conducted the trend forecasting using information from Premiere Vision trade show from a company called ‘Pattern Bank’ who
posted their mood boards onto Pinterest. Using that information I have been able to clearly create three ranges that are trend focused, as well as in line with the Matalan brand. I used WGSN for trend forecasting, as they had numerous booklets for different trends they believed would be popular for spring/summer 2017; this included key shapes, designers, moods, and themes. I used this information to create my own mood boards for each trend, so my information was developed by me and not plagerised. I wanted to create a clear focus where I could develop three distinctive ranges that could be picked from a line up of different brands and were distinctively Matalan due their commercial design. I looked to the catwalk with designers like 3.1 Phillip Lim, Michael Kors, Marni, and Louis Vuitton, as I felt they were representative of the trends that I had selected for each range to be based off of. Therefore my direction was focused, and methodical, leaving little room for vague interpretation by someone other than myself. The subsequent directional shop that I completed helped me to understand what trends were now being sold by the designers, their pricing, and their fabric composition. This helped me understand what specifications I might used from their designs for each of the three ranges I as the buyer would be building for Matalan’s spring/summer 2017 season. I have come to understand the importance of analysing everything that I do within this course, and it has helped develop my mind to think in a critically analytical way that I can use when I eventually become a buyer within a Head Office environment. I have to be able to sell a range that the buying team has built to the director, and sometimes even the owner of a company, and make them believe that this is the right direction to go in. In order to do this, I need to have the correct information to back up the themes, idea, and direction of each range. This is important. The business plan is integral for the composition of the range, and to help the merchandisers, advertising and public relations department, understand how this range is to be promoted, and to whom the ranges are targeted towards. I critically analysed the business aims, as I knew in detail what each range would be hoping to achieve for the company and the Matalan brand. Using my knowledge of the Matalan brand, and working for Matalan in-store, it has given me a perspective that not a lot of people could have in this situation. It has helped me understand the importance of every marketing strategy, and what could be used to promote the range for each target market. I have used my creative skills with Photoshop to develop clear concept boards, mood boards, visual merchandising guide, and look book to further back up the overall plans for each range.
Evaluation
I also created three financial spreadsheets for this unit, and felt that in this unit I have been more confident using Excel than ever before. I believe this is because I feel more
confident in my abilities as a buyer, and I have become more assertive in my actions and have not needed to ask for approval or help from anyone. This has increased my confidence with my own abilities to achieve and overachieve what I set out for myself to do on a daily basis throughout this course. It is a skill that will continue to develop as I start my career in Buying. Along with the financial spreadsheets, I also completed two WSSI’s for each range. The WSSI has helped me understand the complex role of a merchandiser, and how it is important to recognise that different locations, different demographics, and different products can be affected by external factors such as events like the Grand National, or the Queen’s Birthday. Within the financial spreadsheet I created a store grade plan, and this helped me complete the two WSSI’s within each range, and analyse them effectively that is realistic, easy to comprehend, and also help me understand further the importance of stock intake, sales, and how to resolve issues that may arise due to external and internal factors. I wanted to focus more on the sourcing of fabric in this unit, due to seeing a particular material being used frequently across all departments in Matalan. Lyocell is a environmentally friendly manmade material. It is created using the pulp of eucalyptus trees and can provide a denim effect to clothing without increasing cost, and causing minimal damage to communities and the environment. I also used this opportunity to further delve into what I thought I understood about sourcing from different countries. Matalan source most of their garment production from Romania; this was unusual to me at first, but through desk research I found that Romania is one of the most highly skilled countries within the EU. Not only does Romania provide EU laws and protection to countries who source production from Romania, but it also is in close proximity to access roads and sea ports. The information I gathered has helped me understand the importance of sourcing decisions and why a value company like Matalan source from a country like Romania than India, for example, where the laws are more confusing, and the danger to health and safety guidelines are more likely to be ignored due to increasing pressure to meet lead times. I completed a buying cycle, a critical path, and also looked at the different methods that can be used to transport that materials, and different situations that could affect the production, and overall fluidity of the critical path. This unit has given me a desire to learn as much as I could about sourcing, as I never truly understood it until this unit where I
delved deeper and read more articles and immersed myself in information that could help me in the future when I become a Buyer, and have to learn about the companies different sourcing methods and visit the factories, alongside making important sourcing decisions. I also looked at production issues, cost, and constraints that could affect the development of the three ranges. I chose three pieces from each range to critically analyse the amendments I could make to make the ranges more cost effective, or to make them more appealing to different customers; for example, making the jewellery out of a stronger material, or choosing a more versatile fabric such as jersey fabric that could be more comfortable for a larger customer. It is important to focus on the target market, but also focus on customers who may not be that target market, and how they can buy into the range.
Evaluation
In this unit I also found time to produce both a visual merchandising guide, and a Lookbook. I decided to create a visual merchandising guide due to conversations with the visual merchandising team instore Not only did they provide a great analysis and feedback on my ranges, along with the floor manager John Padfield, but they showed me the visual merchandising guide for menswear. This intrigued me, as I noticed it looked as if it was completed on Photoshop. I decided to try to do this, to add an extra feather in my cap in what I was capable of doing for this final major project. I am happy with the outcome, and have shown it to the visual merchandising team in store who were delighted when flicking through the pages. It was a great achievement to me, to prove that I could create a commercial range, and use different methods to show I am ready to work in a Head Office and liaise with different departments such as visual merchandising. The look book I created showcased the visual merchandising skills I had learnt in-store, as well as the Photoshop skills I had developed in class. I was able to warp the CAD’s onto the model I had chosen for the womenswear range, and make it look like a realistic outfit. I also included a story, where she is traveling through the English countryside, and wearing pieces from the range in a style that reflects the target market for the range which is 45-55. Similar to the Cath Kidston ‘Soon’ range Lookbook, the Paul Smith range for Matalan’s menswear also had a theme; legends, sporty casual wear, and casual formal wear. There was a direct link to the ‘Digital Wave’ trend that I picked out from the trend forecasting I completed using WGSN. Using the warp tool I fit the garments onto the male model, to make it loko more realistic. I did this with the accessories part of the Lookbook, with the shoes from the range warped onto the legs of the model. This page was my favourite, due to its professional look that I had tried to achieve in previous units. I am glad that I have developed my Photoshop skills to a point were I feel I am more advanced with the program, and feel comfortable in creating more promotional materials when I reach an interview, or an assessment centre, where I have to sell myself and my skills. The different promotional marketing strategies I chose came from researching where Matalan promoted their current spring/summer 2016 range, and they did so at Somerset House. I felt since they ahd used that location before, it would be easy to use that location again, and maybe bring in more celebrities from London and the surrounding area, and create a high profile launch event that could promote brand awareness on a grander scale. Integrating the football charity match came from the new partnership that ITV have with Matalan for this summer. There could be a deal negotiated for a charity match similar to Soccer Aid that could benefit Alder Hey and NSPCC, two charities that Matalan have a close relationship with for raising money for many years. This relates to the target market of the brand, and could help promote the range on a national and international scale. The London launch would be for all the designers for all three ranges, and introduce the ‘Design Collective’ to the retail industry. Not only will a catwalk show witch each designer present promote an electric atmosphere, it could help further collaborations in the future. Overall this unit has been fun, and helped me further express my skills and my personal qualities such as strong time-management skills, creative flair, and numerical skills. I hope with this FMP that I will have a strong portfolio for when I go to more interviews, like I have done during this course. The Matalan pitch helped me understand how capable and talented I am, and helped me acknowledge my ability is stronger than I first thought at the beginning of this course. Thorough the industrial pitch to Matalan, I have won an internship for one week on July 25th. I have more confidence in myself today, and when I go to work in store, I feel more confident in my knowledge about retail, and my confidence in my own abilities. I have had three or four video interviews for Buying positions since January, and I have only grown in confidence and belief even though I have been unsuccessful. I believe I have learnt a great deal, and developed skills that will make me a great Buyer for any retail company.
Pitch Evaluation On the 26th of May, we all participated in practicing our pitches to each other in a group. This was tremendously helpful for me. The feedback from Tilly, and Alice, helped me edit the slides so I showcased the most important and visual slides to show the most important parts of the three ranges that I had built for Matalan in my FMP. Alice suggested I remove some of the trend forecasting pages, so that it was more focused. Tilly suggested that I spoke more clearly, which is what I have learnt to do. I also suggested similar amendments to both of their pitches. After completing the pitch I have found that my time management skills need to be worked on, as this was the feedback that Amy and Lisa gave to me after my presentation. I would like to counteract that feedback with the fact that I showed all three ranges, and if I were pitching in a professional environment I would only be pitching one range for one department. I felt my pitch went well, and I took the constructive criticism from my peers well also, as Tom questioned the use of Erdem as a designer for the Footwear and Accessories collaboration. I counteracted this point by suggesting the use of the digital print would minimise costs, as the fabrics would not be of a high quality. Throughout all three ranges the prints used were the most important, and were the highlight of the ranges due to the fact they could be well known by the customer as they may have seen those prints a hundred times before in the respected designers own ranges. To conclude, I believe the pitch went well. My only criticism was time management, but this is understandable considering I pitched three ranges, as opposed to one or two like other members of the class. If I were to critique myself, it would be to manage the time of my pitch, but I commend
myself on my presentation skills, as I believe they have improved since the last time that I presented at the Matalan pitch.
Pitch that I presented to Amy and Lisa, May 27th 2016.