UNIT 11 AND UNIT 12
Task 1: Report On Independent Retailers
CRICKET BOUTIQUE Cricket was co-founded by Justine Mills in 1991, and is located in Liverpool City Centre at the Liverpool Cavern Quarter. They are renowned for their customer loyalty, with Liverpool wives and girlfriends of local footballers and further afield regularly choosing to shop at the ‘super’ boutique over other designer department stores like Selfridges and Harvey Nicholls. As an independent retailer they can buy in any brands from designers they think and know could sell well with their target customer. On their website they have their own blog, where they post models who they personally style in the clothing that they sell. On their website, they also have their own magazine about upcoming trends they think appeal to their customer, and designers that are the new ‘IT’ brand for the women of the North West. Liverpool is a very fashionable city, with labels taking over the popularity contests in high schools and in the workplace. Just carrying the ‘Cricket’ shopping bag around town, or using it as a school bag, is very trendy and it garners a lot of attention from friends, people on the street, and school peers. This is because they have built their brand to an extent where they are part of the Liverpool lingo, and the Liverpool style in general. This can only be accomplished by a brand that has a tight focus on who they are marketing themselves to. They do not have adverts on television, or any print media. It is all through word of mouth, and paparazzi photographs of low list celebrities and high list celebrities leaving the boutique. Their customer profile is the new money sect of celebrity, young and wanting to showcase their wealth with well known designers and ‘IT’ items like Givenchy bags, Moncler jackets and Louboutin heels. Their age range of customers varies from 16 year old school girls to 30 year old women who work full time or have a higher disposable income for more personal reasons like marriage etc. The store layout resembles that of a wardrobe with simple rails that hand expensive clothing, and footwear that goes with the outfits placed underneath. It does not share the same elitist aesthetic that could be found in stores like Selfridges. Instead, it allows for any customer to come in and browse luxurious items without being bothered by sales assistant and without fear of having to buy something. There is a minimal amount of staff, and they are approachable and easy to talk to. The visual merchandising is minimalist.
Task 1: Report On Independent Retailers
Patricia Field Boutique Patricia Field is a New York based costume designer, and is well known around the world for being the stylist of the Sex and the City cast. Her boutique has been situated in New York city for nearly 50 years, and opened in 1966 in Greenwich Village; a hip area of New York City that absorbs the eclectic taste of its residence, both famous and infamous. The boutique serves as a ‘go-to’ place for party monsters, celebrities wanting to carve their name in the fashion world, and fashion forward men and women who want live the alternative lifestyle in New York City. The boutique not only sells Patricia’s own designs and label, but also brings unknown designers into the fashion forefront and launches their careers, as long with the stylists who covet them. A lot of the clothes on the website are branded as ‘one of a kind’ items. This only alleviates the boutique from the standard designer boutiques that pop up around the world, as it caters to a more artistic crowd that values creativity and originality. The store layout is similar to the shops that can be seen all over the world in the hidden alleys, inside old buildings in cities like London, Paris, Manchester and Liverpool. However, the unique selling point of Patricia Field’s boutique is that you can never find another item like the ones they sell; you will find something nobody else in the world can have. The price is high, but the clothes are custom. You don’t pay for the designer name, you pay for the care and attention that has been given to each product. The age range of their target customer can be an 18 year old fashion student looking for a bargain bag, hat or jewellery piece, or a 40 year old club kid needing a one of a kind outfit for Saturday night. Her focus is about bringing in new designers, and never changing their alternative style or sacrificing their creativity to make a quick profit. The store is visually stimulating, and is like a bazaar where you can get lost inside and find trinkets and clothes that seem to pop out of an unknown abyss. It has become a tourist attraction because of the name above the door, but still the boutique keeps within the same vein of purpose that it had when it opened in 1966. References Patriciafield.com, (2015). Bio | Patricia Field. [online] Available at: http://patriciafield.com/pages/bio [Accessed 9 Dec. 2015].
Task 1: Report On Independent Retailers
Miss Francesca Couture Miss Francesca Couture is a Liverpool based boutique that specialises in bespoke couture dresses, and off the rack dresses and jackets that are designed in house. Francesca graduated from Liverpool John Moores University in 2008 with a BA Hons in Fashion Design. Francesca gained a huge following in Liverpool for her glamourous dresses that she had sewn in her dads office in 2009 after graduating, when Francesca was involved in a fashion show for a charity raising money for The Lily Centre. Now she has her own boutique in the MET Quarter, which she opened in 2013, a high fashion shopping destination. Every body from celebrities to young girls wanting a fabulous dress for their school prom go to her store. Miss Francesca Couture sells bespoke party dresses, and has its own online shop for customers who are not able to make it to the Liverpool store. The style is glitzy and extravagant, with all of the dresses fitting this theme. Liverpool women who want to wear a gorgeous dress on a night out will pay the high price for a bespoke dress that fits them perfectly, and makes them feel as special and glamourous as a celebrity. The store layout is clean and simple, inviting the customer into the store with ambient lighting and a few rails of clothing on view. The colouring of the store includes shades of pink, and yellow lighting, making it seem like a paradise for any women who dreams of being a princess. It is true to its Liverpool roots, and does not shy away from the ‘scouse look’. Mannequins are impeccably dressed in the windows, and the visual merchandising resembles that of Topshop; arty and stylish, appealing to women aged 16-30.
References Miss Francesca Couture, (2015). About Miss Francesca Couture... - Miss Francesca Couture. [online] Available at: http://www.missfrancescacouture.co.uk/about/ [Accessed 9 Dec. 2015].
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: History Has an online store, with sizes ranging from S,M,L. Made to order items, bespoke. Some items available to buy from the rail.
Opened her first boutique in the Liverpool MET Quarter in 2013; a high end, and designer destination for the whole of Merseyside.
Founded by Francesca in 2009 in her Dad’s office. She sewed her own designs for private clients.
Graduated JMU in 2008 in a BA degree in Fashion.
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Organisational Chart
Francesca Kearns (Owner, Buyer, Designer)
Merchandiser/A dministration
Admin Assistant Sales Assistant
Personal Assistant
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Location The location of the Miss Francesca Couture shop is in the designer area of Liverpool city centre called the MET Quarter. It is a shopping destination for the affluent men and women of Liverpool that also contains high end stores like All Saints, Ralph Lauren, Smudge Boutique, and House of Celeb Boutique.
The location is great, as there is minimal foot floor into the stores, making it appear from the outside as a designer store. If it were on Church Street, and a lot of customers flooded the store on a regular basis, it would deter customers wanting a higher level of customer service, and because of the high prices in the store, it would not sell as well. Placing it in the MET Quarter associates the brand with higher end goods.
The store is quiet, and has an intimate feel when walking in. There is no hesitation to speak with a member of staff, and they appear helpful when answering queries. It is easy to get to from the Victoria Street car park, and from St. Johns and Liverpool Once shopping centres. It is also across the road from the Cavern Quarter which is an arcade filled with designer brands and designer brand boutiques. This makes it easier for women who want an outfit for a special occasion to visit Cricket for their Louboutin heels, and then walk over to Miss Francesca Couture in the MET Quarter for their bespoke party dress.
MET Quarter
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Store Layout The Miss Francesca Couture store is a small store compared to other boutiques in the MET Quarter and in Liverpool One and St. Johns shopping centre. It is similar to a Parisian designer store like Chanel or Louis Vuitton, as it does not have an area for customers to flitter in and out without purchasing anything; it is a destination for customers who require a dress, as opposed to compulsory buying behaviour of the customer.
Upstairs there is more space for browsing and talking with sales staff who can tailor any dress to fit your body, or even produce a bespoke dress that they will take their time to help you with. There is no customer flow, and there is no space to dither or browse. This can be seen as a negative aspect of the store, as there is not a lot of products on offer and it is difficult to see if there is any sales assistants available to speak to as the customer service and cash desk is hidden at the back of the store away from the public viewing area.
The lack of direction in the store is also a negative, as it is easy to make the customer feel uneasy when there is nobody in the store to welcome them inside, and direct them to the items they are considering buying. As this is an independent retailer, it could be more beneficial to have a sales assistant at the door greeting customers who take an interest in their boutique and quickly deducing if they need help or not.
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Visual Merchandising The Miss Francesca Couture shop in MET Quarter is situated on the top floor with other similar boutiques that provide the same atelier service to their customers. Their store is small, but has an upstairs area with a fitting room and bespoke tailoring service available to customers. Therefore, the sales floor is minimal and has little stock on show that can be bought off the rail.
What stands out is the colour pallet of the store, which includes light pink and ambient lighting, it gives the feel of a Parisian boutique with fresh flowers on display and a red carpet on the shop floor and going up the white staircase.
There are two mannequins in the front window, and two vases at the entrance dressed in a white bow. Inside there are two mannequins lit by spotlights above them, and either side of this display are two rails with minimal stock; it showcases the designs available but not every size.
On the walls there are small white picture frames with photographs of models wearing the designs. There is one cash desk, which you can approach to ask questions about designs and talk about the store. Upstairs there is a bespoke tailoring services, and downstairs there is a delivery
entrance for the whole of the MET Quarter that they use.
The feel of the store is bright, feminine and pretty. It is small, and if there is plans to expand the range then there would be need to be consideration given to buying a bigger unit within the MET Quarter, or opening another store elsewhere in the city that can fit the new ranges inside.
In Store, Miss Francesca Couture
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Promotions, Competitors, and Brands In Store Miss Francesca Couture have student discount available to their customers, which for an independent retailer can be a positive and negative. It tells me as a buyer who their target market is, as students can be between 18-30 years old, but students may not be able to afford their dresses; but many students need
House of Celeb Boutique
dresses for their graduation ball, prom, and birthday celebrations. It is also an incentive to bring more customers into the store.
The competitors of the store are found on the same level of the MET Quarter, which is interesting as this can take away the customers from the Miss Francesca Couture brand. The main competitor could be seen as House of Celeb Boutique as the style of party wear is very similar, but they have a bigger name in the
global market and have their dresses on celebrities around the world and who are well known like Jennifer Lopez and Kim Kardashian. This shows that Miss Francesca Couture can be as big as their competition, as there is a market for their style of clothing around the world.
They do not stock other brands in their store. They solely sell party wear for women, and have a bespoke service upstairs to create custom dresses and costumes for all kinds of occasions. Their competitor next door House of Celeb Boutique has a lot of different products on sale, with bath and beauty gift sets available over the Christmas period; this kind of promotion would be beneficial to the Miss Francesca
Couture brand as it increases brand awareness to a wider range of people and adds a little more on top of their overall profit for each quarter.
NUS Card Student Discount
Task 2 and 3: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Customer Profile SEXY UNIQUE
FLASHY FUN
Task 4: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Customer Profile The Miss Francesca Couture customer is a woman aged 18-35, who has to go to Creamfields every year, and go to Ibiza with her friends in the Summer. She looks after herself more so than any other typical girl; always has the best Russian hair extensions, and loves her mink fake eyelashes. She gets lip injections before a big night out, and makes sure she stands out with her tan from her recent holiday trip on show, before it fades.
Her favourite food is Italian, and she loves to drink a glass of chardonnay of a night. The music she plays varies, depending on her mood. Before a night out she plays Steve Aoki, and Calvin Harris, but if she’s at home with her boyfriend or partner she likes to listen to chilled out House classics from Chicane. Her clothes are branded, and if she must shop on the high street she likes to buy clothes from River Island and Topshop.
Since all her friends like designer clothes, she wants to be a step ahead of them; she has to be unique and wear an outfit that nobody else will have on when she goes out to Kingdom on a Saturday night. It has to be flashy, sexy, and make people stare for the right reasons.
If she is a student, she will want a dress for a special occasion like her birthday or for her graduation ball. The younger customer will want something over the top, but nothing to big or expensive. It has to be special. The younger customer is more into music acts like Beyonce, and loves to eat Pizza and Nando’s. Their favourite makeup spot is Peaches and Cream, to get the classic smoky eye before a night out, and have their hair perfectly curled.
Task 4: Market Research
Miss Francesca Couture: Market Research Critical Analysis From my primary market research I found out a lot of information about Miss Francesca Couture, and the brands competitors. For instance, it specialises in bespoke couture dresses, but also sells dresses online and in store that are not bespoke for a price that is less than designer price, but equivalent to a high end designer like Ted Baker, Karen Millen, and All Saints. They appeal to women, between the ages of 18-30. Their dresses are original, and that is the reason for their positive growth since the brand’s beginnings in 2009. They offer one of a kind products for all ages, but only sell ranges for women as of 2015. Unlike designer items which are replicated on the high street, and are bought by women wanting to show their style and wealth, the bespoke outfits that can be bought at Miss Francesca Couture are made of a high quality material, and they can create any design that you want; even if it is for a Halloween party, or fancy dress party. They offer a one to one service that you cannot find in other stores, even designer stores do not offer such a close connection with their clients like Miss Francesca Couture does. Another positive of their brand is how the designer Francesca who owns the brand is from Liverpool, and graduated from the local University; John Moores University. This means that she understands the market that she is selling to, and what their style is and what they want to wear throughout the seasons. Therefore, she can specifically target a whole group of customers, that other stores like Debenhams, Marks and Spencer’s cannot do. Their store is local to the area as well, in the MET Quarter. The location they have chosen makes it easier to attract the high end customer, who will most likely shop for their shoes in Cricket, and their bags as well, and after a two minute walk they can pop into the MET Quarter, pick up their bespoke dress, and then get their make up done by professional artists in the MAC cosmetics store. Their visual merchandising in store reflects their brand exceptionally well, a lot of care and attention has been placed in curating an atmosphere that separates their brand from their competitors. They have a colour scheme that is feminine and very pretty on the eye. The ambience of just one desk, and a a few rails with minimal stock makes more of a point to the customer to speak with their staff rather than just browse and leave. This is can be seen as a negative, because there is not a sales assistant at the door of the shop, it is easier to walk and walk out without talking to any member of staff, and therefore it is a loss of a sale. To conclude, as a buyer I felt as if the Miss Francesca Couture brand has a lot of room to grow, and could be as big as their major competitor House of Celeb Boutique which has a unit next door to their shop. There is a lot of opportunity as a buyer to bring in a ready to wear range, and a men’s and children’s tailoring, however the store would need to expand. Primary research is important as it allows the consumer, and the buyer who is doing a comp shop, to see the layout of the store, how it is promoted, and the feel of it when they walk in to the store and their first impression. There is a lot more to be gained from going to the store in person, as opposed to online where you do not see the staff, the aesthetic of the store and the atmosphere.
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: House of CB London House of Celeb Boutique are well known around the world for their dresses. They have been worn by celebrities from Jennifer Lopez, Kim Kardashian, and Vicky Patterson from Geordie Shore. Their eclectic range that includes sultry silk dresses and the more traditional lace gowns are price towards the high end, but are still accessible by the ordinary woman or teenager to wear a House of CB dress for a birthday party, work night out, or graduation. The company started as an online store in May 2010, and now has five international offices, and clients that are worldwide also. They are constantly on social media building their company to the point where it is becoming a house hold brand. Their designs are focused on women with curves, and on their website it states that their message is to ‘empower’ women. Their care and attention to servicing their clients is shown in their designs and attention to detail with their packaging. All their clothes are designed in house in London. They proudly write on their website that their whole design team is women and women led. On their website they even include the buying cycle of the company, it reads ‘our whole process of design to being available for purchase takes around six to eight months and we design for the woman that wants to feel strong, empowered and still sexy. Have a look through our pics or watch a few videos to see how House of CB comes to life.’ This statement comes from the founder of House of CB, Conna. The target market is aged 18-35, and their designs are original. The price range is between £25 and over £200. This boutique is successful because it has celebrities to endorse their designs by wearing them on red carpets, and on television shows shown worldwide. This is the key to their success; advertisement and marketing of their products. Their price range is in line with other boutiques that are similar, like Miss Francesca Couture, and from researching this brand as a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I can see that there is a method to creating this success with the Miss Francesca Couture brand, and a way to push it into the global market for original party wear. House of CB London has a lot more to offer than Miss Francesca Couture; even though the two are similar in their designs, and their marketing, House of CB London pushes towards becoming more globally known that Miss Francesca Couture, and have a lot more money available to promote themselves on a grander scale with celebrities, and also with smaller products like the beauty gift sets I mentioned before that I noticed during the market research of the brand.
References Houseofcb.com, (2015). House of CB | Be Obsessed | Brit Designed Bandage Bodycon Dresses & Way More.. [online] Available at: http://www.houseofcb.com/about-us [Accessed 10 Dec. 2015].
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: House of CB London
£149 XS S M L
£129 XS S M L
£129 XS S M L
£79 XS S M L
£105 XS S M L
£79 XS S M L
£89 XS S M L
£79.99 XS S M L
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Phase Eight Phase Eight was first opened in Patsy Seddon in London in 1979. The whole idea behind the brand was to bring ‘affordable’ and ‘sophisticated’ together, so she began to design her own pieces and launched ‘Phased Eight’ in a small boutique in Wandsworth Common. Their core principles are, original, design-led brand offering ‘…a personal shopping experience to customers looking for beautiful and affordable casual, day, work and occasion wear…’ Now they have over 430 stores and concessions globally. They offer a personal shopping experience as well, adding that extra touch to keep their customers loyal. The patterns they use are feminine, and their styles are focused on showcasing the womanly body. They now have a premium range, to compete with the more upmarket party wear brands, this launched in 2012. It is dramatic, and more extravagant than their main occasion line. Following this successful range, they now have another line called ‘Bridal 8’ that they launched in 2013. It is more focused on vintage aesthetics, and ‘contemporary fabrics and textures for a clean and modern silhouette’. Phase Eight opened their first international store in Zurich, Switzerland in 2012. They have since launched additional concessions and stores in Europe, Asia, the Middle East, America, and Australia. Their global strategy has been very successful, and proves that there is a need for original custom party dress designs around the world. Their speciality in occasion wear dresses elevates the brand from a high street boutique to a high end designer. On their website they have an ‘Inspiration’ tab that has outfits put together in the style of a mood board, with all the trends of the season used. This is a helpful way for their customers to pick a whole outfit without having to trawl the website for something that they would like to buy. Their price range varies from £79 to over £250, and they market their clothes towards women who are 30-50 years old and are more sophisticated and conservative in their choice of party dress. Phase Eight has also won an award in 2015; Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade, it recognises their growth and global expansion. This is a huge accomplishment for an independent retailer.
As a competitor for the Miss Francesca Couture brand, it offers a lot more sophisticated styles that can be worn in the daytime and the evening, with equally high quality fabrics. They have more recognition in the retail arena, but are not as well known as other stores.
References Eight, P. (2015). About Us | Phase Eight. [online] Phase-eight.com. Available at: http://www.phaseeight.com/fcp/content/aboutus/content [Accessed 10 Dec. 2015].
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Phase Eight
£295 6-20
£140 6-20
£99 6-20
£130 6-20
£69 6-20
£75 6-20
£89 6-20
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Karen Millen Karen Millen is a global brand with individual designs, that are ‘hand-crafted’ by their inhouse designer atelier. The CCO is Gemma Metheringham, and the range is a ‘curated collection’ of perfectly cut trend-led and investment pieces offering and elevated, tailor approach to fashion. They have stores in over 65 countries across six continents including flagship stores in
London’s Knightsbridge and New York’s Fifth Avenue. Their Karen Millen woman has ‘both style and substance’; she’s ‘memorable with a strong character and wears pieces that reflect and enhance her personality. She’s ‘confident’ in the way that she dresses and puts things together and she wants to ‘feel the quality’ and craftsmanship in everything she wears. The company is focused on the quality of their products, and their products are tailored for every type of woman with good quality fabrics. The age range is between 20 and 50 years of age, for any woman who needs to look sophisticated and fashionable at any event. They have a variety of styles available, in sizes ranging from XS, M, L. Karen Millen also has concessions online at ASOS, and in store at John Lewis. Branching out to department stores brings more customers to their brand who shop in competitor stores like Ted Baker and Lipsy. Miss Francesca Couture’s weakness that its competitors have as their strength is that their
brand has global awareness. As a competitor to Miss Francesca Couture, they have a lot more variety to offer to the customer looking for a party wear outfit. They can offer accessories, and on trend pieces too for a price range that varies between £70 to £300. They are also available in concessions in big department stores, and have well known brand name that is available in other countries as well as online.
References Limited, B. (2015). Karen Millen - Women's Clothes and Fashion. [online] Karenmillen.com. Available at: http://www.karenmillen.com/?lng=en&ctry=GB& [Accessed 11 Dec. 2015].
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Karen Millen
£350 6-16
£125 6-16
£299 6-16
£165 6-16
£170 6-16
£110 6-16
£199 6-16
£235 6-16
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Debenhams Debenhams is an international brand with over 240 stores, in 27 countries. It is a department store that has numerous brands from all over the world under one roof, making choosing an outfit easy for any customer. They have invested their time and money into numerous brands over the years, most notably; Toddy Lynn, QUIZ, and Nine by Savannah Miller. These brands are the competitors to Miss Francesca Couture, because their price range is better, there is more variety for the customer to choose from, and from the primary research that I conducted, I found that Debenhams had more party wear than any other store that I had visited as part of the market research I conducted. Debenhams are very prolific on social media, and in print media and on television adverts. It is a major competitor because there is more of a range for customer to build an outfit for any occasion. They can sell their party dresses from as little as ÂŁ20 to as high as ÂŁ200 depending on the designer. However, they do not provide a made to measure service, like Miss Francesca Couture does. There is a high probability that the outfit a customer chooses can be and will be worn by numerous other women. Their store is a lot bigger, and they have a lot more staff to provide assistance. However, it is easy for a customer to feel forgotten about by a staff member in a department store so large. Also, the brands are concessions within the store, and Debenhams do not stock the full range, making size availability limited. This is the same issue that Miss Francesca Couture has, as they are a bespoke service with a limited stock on the shop floor of only a few products in their range. Debenhams has a more globally aware brand, and can bring in new designers and afford to take risks with new ranges, but Miss Francesca Couture cannot afford to do this as it could cost them a lot of money and affect the budget for their new ranges and bespoke tailoring service. Also, as Miss Francesca Couture is a couture designer, they cannot bring in another brand or designer as this could affect the direction of their brand. References Debenhams.com, (2015). Debenhams UK - Clothes, Accessories, Beauty, Furniture & Gifts. [online] Available at: http://www.debenhams.com/about-debenhams [Accessed 11 Dec. 2015].
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Debenhams
£149 8-20 Kaliko
£350 6-20 Coast
£75 8-20 Uttam Boutique
£29.99 8-18 QUIZ
£29.99 6-22 Dorothy Perkins
£35 8-20 Wallis
£154.95 8-20 Joe Brown
£48 6-16 Oasis
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Monsoon Monsoon first opened in 1973, their first boutique opened in Beauchamp Palace. Peter Simon, the founder, became inspired after a trip around Asia. He became enamoured with colours, and fabrics, and decided to use this as a basis of Monsoon, and then ten years later, Accessorize opened in Covent Garden. Monsoon and Accessorize are now a globally recognised brand with over 1000 stores internationally. In each store it has its own individual identity, with the clothes unique and crafted out of the finest materials. Monsoon focus on bringing back to life old age traditional manufacturing methods from places like India and the far east. They use techniques such as hand blocking prints, dip dye, and embroidery that is all manufactured in a sustainable and ethical way. Monsoon’s style is all about creative dresses for special occasions, for instance weddings and birthdays that require a glamourous outfit. Their prices are on the high end of the scale, with the cheapest dress on sale for around about £39.00, and the most expensive being just under £400. The variety is wide, with a lot of colours and designs to choose from that could be fitting for any customer who walks into the store. Unlike Miss Francesca Couture, Monsoon do not have a one to one customer relationship, as they carry out their business in the same vein as other high street stores. This is a negative, because it is so expensive, the customer might expect to be catered to and spoken to a lot more than say if they were in Topshop. The positive side is the ethical manufacturing process, and the pricing. Their products are impeccably created, with various techniques, but the pricing is not too high considering
the high quality of the products and the designs. As a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture, it is imperative that if any new ranges were brought in that they could cope with the mass production of them and that Miss Francesca Couture adhered to ethical standards, and quality control. References Uk.monsoon.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://uk.monsoon.co.uk/uk/content/heritage#who-we-are [Accessed 11 Dec. 2015].
Task 5: Market Research
Competitors: Monsoon
£399 8-18
£129 8-22
£179 6-18
£139 8-18
£99 8-22
£149 8-18
£119 6-18
£99 6-22
Task 5: Market Research
Competitive Shop: Independent Womens Wear M I S S F R A N C E S C A C O U T U R E
P H A S E E I G H T
£185 SML
100% Polyester
£270 SML
£295 6-20
H O U S E
97% Polyester 3% Elastane
100% Cotton
100% Velvet
97% Polyester 3% Elastane
100% Polyester
100% Crepe
100% Silk Jersey
£270 SML
£80 SML
£180 SML
£69 6-20
£75 6-20
£89 6-20
£79 XS S M L
£79 XS S M L
£79.99 XS S M L
77% Cotton 19% Polyester 4% Elastane
£130 6-20
£99 6-20
£140 6-20
97% Polyester 3% Spandex
£160 SML
£140 SML
£180 SML
95% Polyester 5% Spandex
100% Silk Jersey
O F C B
£149 XS S M L
£79 XS S M L
£105 XS S M L
£89 XS S M L
£129 XS S M L
Task 5: Market Research
Competitive Shop: Non-Independent Women’s Wear
K A R E N
100% Viscose
100% Polyester
100% Polyester
65% Triacetate 35% Polyester
M
98% Polyester 2% Elastane
90% Viscose 10% Polyamide
97% Cotton 3% Elastane
I L L E
£165 6-16
£125 6-16
N
£110 6-16
£235 6-16
£350 6-16
£170 6-16
£299 6-16
£199 6-16
D E B E N
50% Cotton 27% Viscose 23% Nylon
100% Viscose
100% Polyester
100% Polyamide
100% Viscose
92% Polyester 8% Elastane
96% Polyester 4% Elastane
96% Polyester 4% Elastane
H A M S
£149 8-20 Kaliko
M O
100% Polyester
100% Polyester
£75 8-20 Uttam Boutique
£350 6-20 Coast
100% Viscose
£154.95 8-20 Joe Brown
100% Polyester
97% Polyester 3% Elastane
95% Polyester 5% Elastane
N
£29.99 6-22 Dorothy Perkins
£154.95 8-20 Joe Brown
£35 8-20 Wallis
100% Polyester
£48 6-16 Oasis
100% Viscose
S O O N
£399 8-18
£129 8-22
£179 6-18
£139 8-18
£99 8-22
£149 8-18
£119 6-18
£99 6-22
Task 5: Market Research
Competitive Shop: Report and Evaluation In this task I have completed a comp shop, and I have looked at five different brands that I believe are in direct completion with Miss Francesca Couture, and provide a similar service to customers who are buying party wear outfits. Phase Eight, a contemporary couture house that uses high quality materials to produce its dresses and tops for their occasion range, their prices are high and the brand is approved by the Queen of Great Britain. However, compared to Miss Francesca Couture the Phase Eight designs are not ‘on trend’ and do not cater towards customers in Miss Francesca Couture's target range of 18-35. The style of Phase Eight reflects their target market of 30-50 year old women. The other brands that were involved in this comp shop included House of CB, a world wide recognised brand of party wear that is seen on celebrities and on the red carpet. Their PR is significantly better than that of Miss Francesca Couture, and they have a wider range of products available to promote their brand within the target market of 18-35. This includes gift sets during the Christmas period, and a larger availability of sizes and styles for all kinds of women. Miss Francesca Couture is mainly a bespoke brand, however they do sell similar products to House of CB and I can only assume that this could be undercutting their profit margins during the busiest periods of the financial year. Their prices are similar, and so is their quality.
On the High street end of the spectrum, Karen Millen and Debenhams provide a larger depth of party wear with the pricing accessible to anyone within their target market of 18-35. The quality of the product is high, and the price range of dresses can be as low as £100 to as high as £400. The only downside is unlike Miss Francesca Couture, their designs are not original or bespoke. The customer can buy a dress that could be from any season, with no defined trend. Karen Millen seem to target the mass market, and have mass produced designs as well as more unique designs that are of a higher price. Debenhams are a branded high street store, they stock numerous lines from different designers and have concession of other high street brands. The price range can be as low as £30 and as high as £200. The quality can vary, depending on the brand and the price. This retailer researches the current trends of the season, and target the mass market; women who are between 16-50 years old, with designs that are simple, conservative, contemporary, and on trend. It is a destination for any woman who wants to find an outfit for a special occasion all under one roof. Miss Francesca Couture has an edge over Debenhams, as they provide a bespoke service, and a similar price range in the upper tier of Debenhams’ pricing with a more unique design and glamorous style. Monsoon is a high end brand that does not stock similar items to Miss Francesca Couture, but do compete with them with their glamorous and high quality designs that have a lot more colour, and a wider range of designs that reflect the global Monsoon brand. They stock dresses that have handmade embroidery, luxurious fabric and hand made prints, and they are well known for their ethical behaviour in their manufacturing process. Compared to Miss Francesca Couture, Monsoon have a lot more variation in their designs, and even though they do not follow trends as much as the other brands that I have compared to Miss Francesca Couture, their USP is similar as they provide unique handmade, and mass produced, designs at a competitive price. Completing this comp shop has shown me what the Miss Francesca Couture brand could be, and what it should sell to achieve being a more recognisable brand on the global scale. They provide a service that not a lot of other brands that they share the market with have, which is their bespoke couture service. Their ready to wear range, and the depth of the party wear range is shallow, and as a buyer for the new range that includes a Men's and Kids line I would suggest including more mass market pieces that would bring in more customers and branch out the brand so it has a greater depth of products available to a range of different women within the target market of the Miss Francesca Couture brand. The
range I will produce will be a high quality, extravagant party wear range, full of colour and texture.
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE.
ASPIRE
V I B R A N T
EDGY
URBAN
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE.
COLOUR
MODERN
PATTERN
PLAYFUL
QUIRKY
UNIQUE
FEMININE
Emily Lovelock is a brand from Bangalore, India, that specialises in contemporary womenswear. They use bright colour blocking, prints, and sophisticated visual styling of their outfits. On their website, they do not have a price list or a way to shop their clothes online. They do however talk about their store, have a way to contact them, and they talk about their upcoming events at tradeshows.
Miss Francesca Couture could benefit from including separates in the upcoming A/W 2016 range, and updating their website to include a blog and a look book similar to that of Emily Lovelock, so the customer can see the direction that the brand is going for the upcoming season. As a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I would bring in a ready to wear party range that includes the bright colours and prints that Miss Francesca Couture shares with Emily Lovelock, and add more depth to the range. It appears to be a popular trend, that could increase profits during the party season. References Emilylovelock.com, (2015). Emily Lovelock - About Us. [online] Available at: http://emilylovelock.com/about/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE.
1950’s
BROCADE
DETAIL
FLARE
TAILORING
CLASSICAL
PROM
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE. Caroline Beyll is a British fashion designer, whose design are influenced by the 1950’s. Her website is treasure trove of information, and inspiration, for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. Based in London, Caroline Beyll designs her dresses and has them manufactured in a factory in North London. The fabric that she uses are sourced from the UK, and the dress sizes are between a UK 10 and a UK 18. The style of dress that she designs can be described as sophisticated, with a fitted waist and fit and flare skirt design. Beyll has showcased her designs at African Fashion Week, in London. Any customer can buy her designs from her website, but she also designs bespoke dresses for customers wanting something extra special and unique. This is similar to that of Miss Francesca Couture. However, Caroline Beyll has built up a stronger presence online, and has shown at a major fashion week event. The designs that she sells online to the mass market are priced between £55-£197. This pricing is competitive with most other retailers who have specific ranges for the party season. As a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture, I have discovered through researching this brand, that it is integral to the survival and growth of the Miss Francesca Couture brand that the selling point of the brand is focused on the current style of the ranges that Miss Francesca Couture currently sell. Beyll also sells a limited range of women's wear, this can make it harder for a customer to stay on the website long enough to become interested in any of the products. This problem can also be found on the Miss Francesca Couture brand, therefore it is important that there is more depth in the women's range before any discussion can be had about introducing a men’s wear or kids wear range. I do not believe that this brand fits the description of the theme ‘Aspire’, as it does not show any edge to its range, nor does it reflect the youth of today. It does however seem more fitting to place this in the theme of Allure. References Caroline Beyll, (2015). Caroline Beyll, British 50’s Dress Designer. [online] Available at: http://carolinebeyll.co.uk/about/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE.
CHEEKY
HERITAGE
EXTROVERT
PRINTS
COLOUR
TAILORING
LUXURY
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ASPIRE. Guide London was founded in 1973 in the East end of London. Isaac Benson opened his first shop in 1979, called BRUTE. It offered menswear from wholesale manufacturers. To grow his brand further, and use his creative abilities, he found a business partner in 1985 and produced UK made menswear, adding more products the more successful that the company became. Guide London came about as a new limited company, independently owned by Isaac and his business partner. They had showcases in the UK, Paris, and Germany. They soon began to add new clients who stocked their products in bigger brand stores, as concessional stands. In 2004, Isaac Benson bought his business partner’s shares, and with his son, began to focus more on the in-house development of the ranges and working with businesses in the UK and in Europe. The company has a limited range, but of high quality products. They are produced in the UK giving them an extra edge in their USP when promoting their brand in trade shows and to new customers. Miss Francesca Couture has the same edge, and could benefit from a menswear range that evokes the same history and style as Guide London. They share a similar background; working class and providing high quality products for anyone to buy. Miss Francesca Couture should became as accessible as Guide London, and include their timeline in their promotional material also. The style of the formal wear has an East End identity, that conveys the manifesto of the brand and does not seem to stray with each coming season. The key to the success of this company is the fact that its designs and its customer has not changed, and they continue to adapt their prints and colours to suit the modern London man as he continues to evolve every so slightly. Miss Francesca Couture knows the women who shop with them, and who ask for bespoke outfits, but it would add more depth to their brand if they could create a customer profile for the boyfriends and partners of their customers, and sell to them also; increasing the amount of money spent, and the
interest in their brand online and in the UK. Miss Francesca Couture has brash and extravagant dresses and pieces available to women, and this can be adapted to fit the menswear aesthetic; hidden prints, flashes of colour and texture throughout a suit. There is so much creative space to develop a meaningful menswear range. The pricing for the formal shirts on the Guide London website varies from £45 to £85, in sizes from XS, to 3XL, and their target market is between 20-30 years old men. This wide availability of sizes increases the interest in the brand, and increases the profits, Including a bespoke service for menswear like Miss Francesca Couture has for
womenswear would be a highlight for the brand, that they can use over their competitors. References Guidelondon.co.uk, (2015). About Us | Guide London. [online] Available at: http://www.guidelondon.co.uk/aboutus [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
ALLURE
EFFORTLESS
CLASSIC OCCASION
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE.
SIMPLE
ELEGANT
CHIC
LACE
DELICATE
ON TREND
RELAXED
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE. Edith & Ella was founded in March 2004. The aesthetic of the brand is bright colours and prints, customers are to be seen and to be noticed. The brand is named after the owners grandmothers, who she described as ‘free spirits’ and this distinction is reflected in the clothes they sell. It is not too ‘fancy’ but it is not casual by any means.
The long gowns are luxurious, but they do not restrict the wearer from wearing heel, flats, or no shoes at all. It is a modern ‘hippy-ish’ brand that Miss Francesca Couture could gain inspiration from when producing a ready to wear party range. There is a significant focus on the story behind each piece, and about catering to every kind of woman and making them each feel positive about themselves.
The clothes and shoes are made of high quality fabrics and materials, and the production is small; 25-200 pieces of each style are made per season, so the customer understands that whichever she buys will be unique. The price range in Euros for a ‘party’ dress can be between 100Euros to 400Euros. The Sizes vary between each dress, but on average I have found them to sell dresses from size small to size extra large.
Miss Francesca Couture could aim to produce a similar amount of items for their ready to range brand, so it does not become mass market, but it also does not stop growing. Edith & Ella sell their brand in England as a concession, under the brand Wild Swans. It could be an idea to introduce Miss Francesca Couture to a worldwide brand as a concession with the introduction of the new range. References Edith-ella.com, (2015). Edith & Ella. [online] Available at: http://edith-ella.com/page/edith-ella-23/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE.
ARTISTIC
GOWNS
QUALITY
SILKS
SEQUINS
BRIGHT
JEWEL TONE
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE. Kiki Dumitresco, is an independent brand owned by the namesake, Kiki Dumitrescu. She is from a family of tailors in Romania, and learned to sew from a young age. However, she graduated from University in 2008 with a degree in Law. In 2009 she enrolled in School of Art and Style to study fashion design, tailoring, and construction. In 2010 Kiki opened her
design studio. Kiki says in her ‘My Story’ page on her brands website, that she is dedicated to following her guidelines for her brand; freshness, natural fabrics, and fine hand made details. All of this points can be attributed to Miss Francesca Couture also. On the website for Kiki’s brand, she goes into detail about the process of her work, from design to finished product, with pictures of her atelier, and the numerous collections that she has produced since the brand first started in 2010.
The difference in depth in her brand compared to Miss Francesca Couture is remarkable, and they have both been opened for near enough to same amount of time. Unlike Miss Francesca Couture, Kiki regularly updates her blog on the brands website, talking about her personal life and the life of her brand. She includes detailed images of her designs, and information about the brand as it continues to grow. Miss Francesca Couture could start a new blog, update it more frequently, and build a closer connection with the customers.
Social media could become an integral part in the development of the Miss Francesca Couture brand, and a blog would be a great way to introduce new products from the new range online first, and gather interest on Facebook and Instagram. Since Miss Francesca Couture has only one boutique in the UK, there needs to be a continued consistent focus on the online development of the brand, to bring in more financial interest in the company from investors and potential customers.
Kiki Dumitresco’s designs range in price when converted to GBP, between £150 to £250. The fabric is made of the highest quality, with silk and silk taffeta used frequently. The sizes also range between EU size 36-44. The dresses are available in a variety of colours also, giving the customer a lot of options, and reasons to come back to the store. Miss Francesca Couture could add this to their USP, providing different variations of the same style to appeal to a wider audience.
References KIKI DUMITRESCU, (2014). Works and sketches. [online] Available at: http://www.kikidumitrescu.com/en/atelier/creatii-din-atelier/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE.
MODERN
SLEEK
FASHION
CATWALK
ILLUSION
SMART
MONO
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ALLURE. ADAMIST launched in 2013, their strap line is ‘Classic with a Twist’. They have unique designs that are simple in design but will have a graphic print or illusion that makes it unique and different to all the tradition ‘heritage’ ranges that you can find easily in many menswear stores. They have a signature ‘A’ on the back of every collar, adding that extra detail is important for customers who do not want to buy a typical white shirt, but one that nobody else will have. They market themselves as high end menswear, that is accessible to any man. ADAMIST use high quality imported materials, with added details like buttons to collars and elsewhere. They have a team of ‘suit makers’, who are veterans in the menswear industry, this helps them design the most innovative products that elevate the brand above the competitors like Ted Baker, Paul Smith, and Topshop. Jacky Rusly graduated from Washington University with a degree in Engineering, but in 2006 after a short time interning at a fashion brand went back home to Indonesia where he began a media company that encompasses fashion design and advertising. The aesthetic of the brand is simple to understand, and there is no clutter of colours or clashing of trends. The ranges are cohesive with each other, and do
not defer from the tag line of classic with a twist. The price range for a men’s suit shirt is between £98-£171. Their sizes vary from XS, to XXL. They advertise to men between the ages of 25-45, who are stylish and want people to know that they understand style and care about how they look. However, it is important that they do not follow the trends, and are true to their personal style. Miss Francesca Couture could take a leaf out of ADAMIST’s
book with the concept of simple designs, and impeccable tailoring to their shirts and trousers. The price range fits well with that of Miss Francesca Couture, and the pallet in MFC is feminine and this can be added to the menswear range, and add a bit of edge and sexiness to the menswear range; bright colours, textures like velvet, and simplistic designs similar to ADAMIST.
References Adamist.com, (2015). About Us | ADAMIST. [online] Available at: http://www.adamist.com/about-us/ [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
SPIRIT
YOUTHFUL
STREET
FRESH
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, SPIRIT.
SEXY
BRASH
COLOURFUL
CO-ORD
SLEEK
RED CARPET
EXTRA
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, SPIRIT. WOW Couture is a Los Angeles based fashion design house that specialises in women's dresses, specifically party dresses. Originally a wholesaler, with concessions on websites like ASOS.com, they now have their own independent boutique online that sells their designs directly to their customer. They have a strong presence on social media, and infer on their website that celebrities choose to wear their designs on the red carpet for events. They have an Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest page; they post red carpet photographs of celebrities in their dresses, this is a great marketing strategy as it allows the customer to see a dress on their favourite celebrity and want to buy it more so than if it was on any kind of model on their website. They encourage customers to use the hashtag #WOWcoutureUSA, this is a positive way to get customers to share their experience and spread the word of the brand online and in different countries without having to spend copious amounts of money on advertising campaigns or marketing. Miss Francesca Couture could do this to grow the brand further, and although they have a social media presence, they do not have a strong presence as of yet due to being undercut by competitors like House of CB who have pushed harder to gain followers, and admiration from celebrities.
WOW Couture has two sister brands, a GOLD label and a RED label. They are both distinctive, and have to distinct customer profiles associated with them. GOLD label is more luxury catwalk styles, and evening dresses with high quality materials and more care to detail. The RED label is more affordable party wear. Having more than one customer profile allows for a greater depth to be added to the different ranges that they offer, and thus bringing in a wider group of customers from all over the world. As a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I will attempt to create two distinct customer profiles, one for the bespoke dresses, and one for the ready to wear party ranges that as a buyer I hope to bring to the brand.
WOW Couture have a signature bandage dress. Miss Francesca Couture could aim to have at least one or two signature styles of dress that can be constantly replenished and promoted to add more profit to the brand, and more customer loyalty by updating the style with a different colour every season. The price range is from $45 to $165, with the sizes ranging from size small, medium, and large.
References Wowcoutureusa.com, (2015). WOW Couture | About WOW Couture - L.A. Fashion | Retail. [online] Available at: http://www.wowcoutureusa.com/red/about-us [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
References Instagram.com, (2015). WOW Couture (@wowcouture_usa) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/wowcouture_usa/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, SPIRIT.
PARTY
YOUNG
FRESH
SHINE
FREEDOM
SPARKLE
INDIVIDUAL
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, SPIRIT.
Wyldr London is a brand born from the creative woman Michelle Goldie, of the brand Goldie. It is focused on a more West Coast style of party wear, based on Goldie’s time in the US, and the jet set lifestyle that she encountered whilst living over there.
It is very extrovert with the colour pallet and the designs; which are mainly short dresses with low cut necklines, and lots of bright coloured sequins. There is a commitment to the manifesto of the brand, and it does not stray. It is a concession brand, that can be bought
on 8th Story.com in the USA. The prices range from $40 to over $100.
The sizes available range from size XS to Large. It can be described as a fast fashion brand, with not a lot of detail or trend forecasting. This is the type of brand that as a buyer I do not want to emulate with Miss Francesca Couture, as it becomes throwaway fashion, and the brand does not grow from that. Subsequently it is hard to change the USP.
However, as a buyer I would consider placing the new ranges in a high street store like Topshop which has a proven track record for concessions and successful promotion of
smaller brands.
References WYLDR, (2015). About. [online] Available at: http://wyldr.com/pages/about-us [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
F O O T W E A R
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, FOOTWEAR (LADIES)
UNISA
YULL
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, FOOTWEAR (LADIES) UNISA is a Spanish footwear brand that is internationally known for their use of raw materials, and comfortable shoes. They have recently started selling their products from their online shop, which can be bought by a private customer or by an independent business for their own branded store. It was founded in the 1970’s selling footwear products to the United States of America, then two experienced business managers came together and began to export their products around Europe.
They employ a wide range of designers who help dictate the direction of the range with every oncoming season. They split the company in 1989, with the European UNISA becoming its own brand. The products were marketed in big European countries like Germany, and were well received as most of their products were manufactured in Spain; this is a great detail in their business, as the last five years have shown an incredible interest and growth of sales in the ethical production of fashion. It gives this company a great deal of respect, and influence in their market. UNISA is focused on developing new technology in footwear, and renewing ideas and design every season whilst still staying ‘on trend’. They currently do not have a stockist in the United Kingdom, and so there would be a great opportunity to create a partnership with Miss Francesca Couture and UNISA were their similar designs can merge together, and hopefully this can create a share in growth for both businesses. The price ranges from £125 to £225, and have sizes 19 to 42, but also cater to customers who need specialist shoe sizes created for them.
UNISA also sells girls shoes, from sizes 28 to 40, the price range is between £65 and £75. It would add to the Miss Francesca Couture brand if a partnership with the girls shoe range by UNISA and the new kids wear range that I the buyer would be brining in to the Miss Francesca Couture brand in the A/W 2016 collection. References Unisa-europa.com, (2015). Find out more about Unisa at the Official Unisa Website. [online] Available at: http://www.unisa-europa.com/en-GB/about-us [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, FOOTWEAR (LADIES)
Yull is a independent footwear brand from the UK. It was founded in 2011 by Sarah Watkinson-Yull whilst she studied at university in London. She subsequently received a grant from the Prince’s Trust to begin a manufacturing business in the UK, and today is one of the only independent shoe brands manufacturing high heels in Britain. Yull is now stock in boutiques around the world, and they have their own studio in Battersea, London. Yull has a selection of collection available that include vibrant colours, and colour blocking
that is unusual but works well. The Miss Francesca Couture brand and the colours that are available in their current range are reflected in the ranges available on the Yull website. The prices varies between £125 and £195, and the size ranges from size 3-8. The brand would fit well within the Miss Francesca Couture boutique, and can be easily paired up with different outfits by the visual merchandising team, and entice customers to add a pair of shoes to their basket. Yull is quickly becoming a huge brand name in the footwear market, and they are already branching out into make up sets. This would be a good partnership for the Miss Francesca Couture brand, as it fills the gaps in their business strategy that could be affecting their
expansion on a national and multi-national scale.
References Yull, (2015). - Yull. [online] Available at: http://www.yull.co.uk/pages/about-us [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
F O O T W E A R
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, FOOTWEAR (MEN)
JACKSIN
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, FOOTWEAR (MEN)
Jacksin is a British shoe company, that manufacture high quality shoes for men. They specialise in leather, and do not mass produce their products. Their strap line is ‘A true
staple of a gentleman’s wardrobe. Authentic British style.’
They have a blog that shows a stripped down buying cycle; how it goes from sketch, to the leather and tools that they use, the pattern they cut the leather from, preparing
the sole, stitching and trimming, and edging and then they mention the branding of the shoes and the finished product. This is a similar buying cycle that Miss Francesca Couture has for their women's wear range. The Miss Francesca Couture website could benefit from being more transparent as a company, and thus become a lot warmer in their approach to bringing in more customers. The price ranges from £44.99 to £69.99 for their products, and the sizes range from size 7 to 10.
The style of the shoes, and the quality of the product, would be a great addition to the menswear range that I as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture would bring in for the
next A/W 2016 season. The formal shoes can be worn with any outfit, regardless of how extravagant or understated they may turn out to be.
References Jacksin, (2015). Know More About Gentlemen Hand Crafted Shoes | Jacksin® Shoes | Guildford, Surrey. [online] Available at: http://www.jacksin.co.uk/pages/about-us [Accessed 17 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
ACCESSORIES
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ACCESSORIES (Woman)
LY D C
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ACCESSORIES (WOMAN)
LYDC London is a UK based brand that sells high quality bags, clutches, purses, and other accessories. The style of the accessories is classic shapes with a modern twist, they keep to trends and are fashionable. They ship worldwide, to Europe and the USA. The price ranges from ÂŁ17.50 for evening bags, to ÂŁ45.50 for grab bags. The style of the accessories fits well with the Miss Francesca Couture brand, and would fit well as a concession within the MET Quarter store. As a buyer, it is important to promote the Miss Francesca Couture brand online and increase their gross profit; partnering with a well known brand that is establish could bring in more customers, and increase profits if the customer decides to buy a bag to match their outfit, or buy a bag
as a gift for a birthday or Christmas. The Envelope Grab bag in Lilac by LYDC could be a bestseller, as it looks cute, feminine and represents the Miss Francesca Couture brand. As a buyer I could take inspiration from the accessories available on the LYDC website and
include the colours and style with the new range, so they compliment each other and look more cohesive and on trend. The age range of this brand is between 25-35, and this fits the age range of Miss Francesca Couture. References Lydc.co.uk, (2015). About Us. [online] Available at: http://www.lydc.co.uk/pages/About-Us.html [Accessed 18 Dec. 2015].
Task 6: Trade Shows
ACCESSORIES
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ACCESSORIES (MEN)
INDUSTRIAL JEWELRY BY HILAT RAWRI KARNI
Task 6: Trade Shows
Trade Show Report: PURE London 2016, ACCESSORIES (MEN)
Hila Rawet Karni is the granddaughter of a woodworker and daughter of an industrial designer, she runs an independent retailer that specialises in crafting jewellery out of springs, rope, and rubber, along with other unusual materials. The company has been
producing jewellery for eleven seasons, and this past spring/summer her company launched their first even men’s jewellery range. It includes necklaces, bracelet, cufflinks and a key chain. They showcase their products in London, New York, Paris and Copenhagen. The designs are innovative, and intriguing.
The price range is £54 for a bracelet, to £69 for a pendant. The products that are available for the men’s collection are limited, but do show a lot of high quality technique and design that would work well with the innovative tailoring that as a buyer I would bring in as a new range for Miss Francesca Couture men’s boutique. So far as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I have been inspired by sleek tailoring that I have seen at the PURE trade show for this year, and I believe that it could be successful including a men’s accessories range like this that evokes a more masculine sense and could compliment the frivolous designs that could be brought in to the new Miss Francesca Couture men’s range.
Their target market is for men between the ages of 25-40, and this fits within the age range that I have given the Miss Francesca Couture new men’s collection. There is currently no stockists of this brand in Liverpool, so it would be a great introduction for the area.
http://www.industrial-jewellery.com/#!about/cfvg
Compare and Contrast Different Categories From Pure Tradeshow
Emily Lovelock’s 1960’s inspired outfits are similar to those by Carolyn Beyll within the Aspire trend category, however they are distinct within the boundaries of the Aspire theme; urban, edgy, and vibrant. Both of these designers are independent, and are primarily focused on the quality of their clothing, and the theme of the brand. They are focused in their trends, with Emily Lovelock including patterns in the majority of her outfits; the dogtooth print is associated with the 1960’s, and adds a quirky look to the pieces that it is used on. Comparing the fun and youthful Lovelock brand with Carolyn Beyll’s brand shows that there is a an age difference with the brands. Beyll’s brand is less contemporary, and not as fashion forward. I believe that it does not reflect the Aspire category, it could fit better with Allure.
Allure is a category from the PURE tradeshow, and the brands within this category supposedly showcase a more classical and occasion wear aesthetic. Edith and Ella is a brand within this category, and they base their clothes around elegant simplicity. They’re dresses are on trend, and feminine. Both of these are ‘alluring’ words. Adamist is a menswear brand that is categorised under the ‘Allure’ trend. I do believe this brand is alluring, more so than the womenswear Edith and Ella brand. PURE describe the ‘Allure’ trend as effortless, classic, and occasion wear which ‘Adamist’ does show throughout the website, and in their ranges. Comparing Edith and Ella shows that the Adamist brand is focused and does not get distracted by other trends or ideals.
The Spirit trend from the PURE trade show is described as vibrant, youthful, and reflects the styles from the street. Wow Couture is an American brand that specialises in party wear that is colourful, sexy, and sleek. Their products reflect a stereotypical red carpet style, with short dresses, bright colours, and an attitude. They have two labels, one provides a higher quality product for a higher price. The brand is flexible within the market, making it more accessible for women with different incomes to buy into. Comparing Wow Couture with Wyldr, a London based brand is from the creative force behind a well known concession brand called ‘Goldie’. Their style is close to Wow Couture, however they have a more generous price range between $40-$100. The style is not as unique as Wow Couture, but they provide simplistic red carpet style that can be a highlight within an outfit that may include excess jewellery and an extravagant coat etc. They are available at TOPSHOP as a concession, this is a reputable retailer and shows that there is a confidence in the young brand. Wyldr and Wow Couture are both in line with the ‘Spirit’ theme, but Wyldr seems to
be more successful.
The Footwear trend from PURE includes a brand called UNISA, which is a brand from Spain, and Yull which is a brand from the UK. UNISA is a heritage brand from Spain that focuses on trend focused footwear, and also invests in the development within footwear technology. They sell all around the world, and have done since the 1970’s. Their style is found in classical colours and shapes; ballerina flats in muted and dark tones. They also sell children’s footwear. The prices are between £125 and £225, because of the way they are produced, and the high quality materials. Comparing UNISA to Yulll, Yull has a more alternative style, with bright colour blocking and kitsch styles of footwear for women. They manufacture their heels in the UK, and their price range is between £125 and £195. It was founded in 2011, but unlike UNISA YULL has a focused style within its brand. This makes it stark amongst its competitors. Not only do they sell footwear, they have
also branched out into make-up and nail varnish too, which highlights the entrepreneurial style of its owner.
Accessories that were shown at the PURE tradeshow include LYDC, a brand from the UK that sell high quality bags, clutches and purses amongst other accessories. They have a classic shape, and a retro styling to their brand. Their prices are at the value end of the spectrum, between £17.50 and £45.50. The overall aesthetic of LYDC is young and targeted at a twenty-something woman who appreciates different era’s and is not solely focused on the trends. Of the moment. On the other end of the spectrum is menswear jewellery designer Hilat Rawri Karni. The granddaughter of a woodworker, and daughter of an industrial designer, she focused in crafting jewellery and accessories out of scrap; rope, rubber, and springs, amongst other materials. The company has been producing products for over eleven season, and their price range is between £54 and £69. They predominately target men as their customers, but anybody can wear their jewellery as it is nondistinct. Compared to LYDS, Hila Rawet Karni offers the retail industry a high quality product that has a story of its own, bore from the history of its designer. This not only makes it special amongst its competitors, but in contrast to LYDC it does not appear frivolous or focused on looking ‘pretty’.
Task 7: Visual Merchandising Report https://stylesafariblog.wordpress.com/ Visual Merchandising report on my blog, with posts from December to January with written analysis.
F O R W A R D F A S H I O N
LUXURY
BRIGHT
A R T I S T I C
Customer Profile Womenswear
Customer Profile Menswear
• Cares about her appearance
• Wants to have a tailored shirt, and suit for drinks with his friends and for intimate dinners with his girlfriend.
• Disposable income • Wants to look unique, and original • Feminine and sexy
• Drives a Range Rover, and plays football of a weekend.
• Loves to party every weekend, listens to EDM, R&B music, and House.
• Wants to look good for special occasions, and birthdays, no matter the cost.
• Likes to showcase her curves, but not always at the same time
• Likes fashion, and different textures of fabric, takes inspiration from the catwalk and celebrities.
• Has a young child, or is in a long term relationship; both partners work full time
• Listens to Juice FM, and likes DJ’s like Steve Aoki, and Calvin Harris.
• Goes to Ibiza every summer, and Creamfields. • Age between 18-30 years old.
• Goes on holiday to Ibiza every summer, and city breaks to shop in Europe for new seasonal clothes.
• Gets her make done professionally and wears premium quality Russian hair extensions, sew ins not clip in hair. • Loves to drink white wine, and champagne when she goes out on a weekend.
Kidswear Customer Profile
• Always has a tan, but uses the sun beds not spray tan for a more natural look.
• Wants to look like her mum, her mum wants her daughter to be a ‘mini me’. • Likes her son to wear a suit, matching colours with her husband or partner.
• Likes to drink Whisky at home, and will buy bottles of Vodka and Champagne when going out of a weekend.
Task 8: Menswear customer profile
Adrian is a thirty-five year old man, who has a partner and two kids; a boy Lucas, and a girl Vivienne. His partner Chantal likes to shop in cricket, and always buys him something on a shopping spree. Adrian goes to the gym, and watches his weight. His favourite
activity is swimming, and he loves driving his fast cars around Formby where he and his partner live. He has a full time job as a c u s t o m e r s e r v i c e m a n a g e r, b u t o n t h e w e e k e n d h e l i k e s t o c h a n g e out of his simple suits and dress up in bright colours; tailored jackets and waistcoats, and single crease trousers. He likes to s p e n d h i s h a r d e a r n e d m o n e y o n h i m s e l f a n d h i s f a m i l y, a n d d o e s not want to be the odd one out in the night out picture with his p a r t n e r a n d t h e i r f r i e n d s . E v e r y t h i n g h a s t o b e n e w, a n d c l a s s y, b u t not always on trend; he does not mind the odd piece that nobody
e l s e w o u l d d a r e t o w e a r. His favourite song ever is Paradise City by Guns n Roses, and always wished he was a rock god. He lies to eat out whenever he goes on holiday and try different foods.
Task 8: Kidswear customer profile
Sophie is nine years old, and her mum is her best friend. Her favourite colours are pink, purple, and red. She plays football on a weekend, and goes to drama class after school. Her favourite food is pasta, and she loves X Factor.
Callum is eleven, and loves football. His dad is his idol, and he loves to play in the garden with him every weekend. His favourite food is pizza, and he loves Foo Fighters, and playing the drums. His favourite colours are black and green.
Task 8: Range Building for Miss Francesca Couture
Jennifer is a 30 something year old mother and partner who works as a manager of a retail store. She spends her time watching Keeping Up With The Kardashians, and reading her monthly subscription of Vogue US and Vogue UK. She has a blog where she writes about the trends for the season, and has an Instagram
account where she posts pictures of the visual merchandising inside the retail store that she manages. Her income is between 25,000 and 30,000 depending on how well her store performs. She has a daughter called Annie who is seven, and a son called Luke who is
nine. She loves to go out of a weekend with her partner, who is a bar manager in the city. The children have to look smart and ‘cool’, and she buys them a lot of clothes from local boutique’s and local designers. She likes to be unique, and look different from the crowd.
Her favourite food is Chinese, especially a takeaway. She loves bright colours, and metallic neutrals. Beyonce is her favourite artist, and she loves to go to concerts with her partner whenever she can, giving her more opportunity to dress up.
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016/17 Playtime Paris is a kidswear trade show that has 440 international exhibitors at the event every year. They showcase mainstream brands, and also up and coming brands from around the world. In the 2015 Playtime Paris trade show there was a lot of emphasis on ‘social trends’ influencing the style of children’s clothing.
One of the key trends that Trendstop, a fashion blog, found was unisex dressing. They mention brands like Bobo Choses and Papu ‘offering gender neutral
PAPU
children’s clothing and key items like joggers spanning both genders…’. Playful prints and stories encapsulated the new season with European brands like Mini Rodini and Iglo & Indi showcasing ‘quirky conversationals’ and another brand Lion of Leisure used hand drawn motifs on their clothes.
AARREKID Another key trend that Trenstop found was the growth in organically motivated children’s clothes. There were collections by Aarrekid, HBB Industria Argentina and Punktchen Komma Strich that offered ethically manufactured clothing for the environmentally conscious family. This report on Trendstop shows that there is a continuous interest in ethically diverse fashion across all target markets. It is important for businesses to understand this trend as it is more than likely going to continue to grow for the next couple of seasons. Therefore, as a buyer who is brining in a new childrenswear range into Miss Francesca Couture, it offers me the opportunity to be more careful with the materials that I choose as the brand is a boutique that is not global as of yet, if it were to appeal to a wider market it would need to find a niche; therefore bringing in ethically sourced cotton and silk would be beneficial to the global growth of the brand.
The elemental trend also appears to be becoming one of the major trends that is universally growing across all markets. The elements can be used in the autumn/winter 2016/17 range by including trench coats, corduroy materials for trousers in the boys range and dresses in the girls range, and neutral colours
with a Miss Francesca Couture ‘twist’; for example, metallic wool, detailing on a jumper or an applique on a coat etc. It is important to stay true to the brand aesthetic which is very bright, colourful, extravagant and over the top, but to compete in a market that brings in a lot of revenue across all retailers it is important to utilise the trends at hand to bring in more customers and increase brand identity and profit.
What is tricky to undertake is bringing in a unisex trend to the brand, as the range that I hope to bring in will be an autumn/winter 2016 range that is more than likely going to be focused around party wear and key autumn/winter pieces like coats. However, it is something that can be thought of for any future ranges that could be introduced to the Miss Francesca Couture brand that is more ‘ready to wear’ based as opposed to evening wear/party wear orientated. Competitors in the kidswear market that have a similar price range are designer brands like Dolce and Gabanna kids, and the high end retailers like Monsoon, who all specialise in formal evening wear for children as well as transitional day to night outfits.
If this range launch is successful it could offer the company an opportunity to add more depth to the kidswear range, and in turn offer more choice to the customer. With an increase in profits, it could give the Miss Francesca Couture brand a greater opportunity of success if it moved into the global market.
References Trendstop, (2015). Kidswear Trade Shows: Playtime Paris Fall/Winter 2015-16. [online] Available at: http://blog.trendstop.com/2015/02/kidswear-trade-shows-playtime-paris-fallwinter-201516/ [Accessed 7 Jan. 2016].
LION OF LEISURE
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016/17
Fashion United recently conducted a report on the upcoming trends for the menswear market in the autumn/winter 2016-17 season. They found that copper tones and brown colours would be at the forefront of the season. They describe ‘edible colours’ and ‘creamy tones’ as the pallet for the season. It is all about adding ‘comfort’ and ‘richness’ to the products.
Instead of earth tones like beige, and rusted brown, Fashion United talks about updated summer colours becoming popular; ‘apricot tan’ instead of beige, and ‘Chocolate Liquor’ instead of brown. This luxurious evolution of the dowdy colours that are usually seen throughout the menswear retail sector is fitting for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. Leather is part of the menswear range that I am introducing into the Miss Francesca Couture brand, as a buyer it is important to implicate the key trends of the season into the range in order to attract more customers and publicity for the brand. The use of brown instead of black, adding a softer side to the menswear range that I will be introducing to Miss Francesca Couture reflects the ethos of the brand; which is more about being playful with colour and shapes as opposed to taking itself seriously.
Fashion United also highlights the trend of ‘oyster gold’, shimmering metallic colour that can be used with silk materials. This could add glamour to the range, and make it cohesive with the main womenswear range. It is a luxurious colour, and like Fashion United mentioned in their report the edible colours and textures are key to the season.
Overall the key trends are about rich colours and textures that offers a more varied selection of clothing in menswear that is not strictly heritage based. Miss Francesca Couture is a fun evening wear brand that could utilise whole-heartedly this key aspect of the autumn/winter 2016 trends, and could be successful as it fits the target market and the customer profile that has been created for this new range.
References Fashionunited.uk, (2015). Key Colour Trends for Fall/Winter 2016-17 Menswear. [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/key-colour-trends-for-fall-winter-2016-17menswear/2015120718628 [Accessed 7 Jan. 2016].
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016/17
One of the key trends of the autumn/winter 2017 season is ‘Remaster’ according to WGSN. Their report suggests that design and art will collide and dramatic costumes will become key for next autumn/winter. Miss Francesca Couture can use this trend as it is a boutique that specialises in original creations, as well as artistic designs that you will not find in any of their competitors that are more mass market orientated.
As the buyer for the next autumn/winter season range I can find inspiration for this trend, and include pieces that can be handcrafted, for instance using a more structured material like a bodice with applique designs adding to the detail, or using latex or rubber to create a bodycon dress that encapsulates the aesthetic of the brand which appeals to every sexy and outgoing woman who wants to look and feel amazing when they go out with their friends. As Miss
REMASTER
Francesca Couture is a brand that is known for creating one off pieces as well as selling more mainstream looks, it will fit the brand to utilise the artistic trend with Avant Garde detailing like excessive pleating, or bouffant dresses that you may not typically find on the high street.
Another key trend highlighted by WGSN for autumn/winter 2016 is the ‘Off Beat’ trend.
Colour, shape, and texture is not middle of the ground, it is on the outer rim of fashion. Playful, fun, and creative designs and colour that sparks the child like enjoyment of dressing up. This can already be seen in the Miss Francesca Couture range of autumn/winter 2015, but it is muted and is too self-conscious. To introduce Miss Francesca Couture to a wider range of women across the globe, the brand has to be less ambiguous and more stark with its designs and pursuit of trends. Adding more pieces that are pop art related and French Renaissance related will attract more eyes to their window.
References WGSN Fashion Trend Forecasting and Analysis, (2016). Login - WGSN. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w/Fashion_Forecast/23721 [Accessed 7 Jan. 2016].
O F F B E AT
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Chanel Pre-Fall 2016 by Karl Lagerfeld takes its influence from the Italian city of Rome where it was show. It brings the heritage of the Chanel brand with the tweed material but with the on trend colours of gold and neutral beige colours. The styling is impeccable, with thoughtful detail including gold chains, pearl necklaces, layering jewellery around the neck of the male models, conveying a luxurious idea for their jet set male customer. The use of the tweed material,
tucking into high top trainers also manufactured from that same tweed, brings a youthful outlook that works harmoniously with the styling of the heritage tweed suit synonymous with the Chanel brand in both the womenswear and menswear lines. The slim tailoring of the suit provides a sleek silhouette that is atypical of the menswear ranges that can be seen on the catwalk in Milan with Dolce and Gabanna, and at the London Burberry fashion show. This trend of gender fluid styling that can be seen on male celebrities of every age, like Kanye West in his Givenchy skirt kilt, and Jaden Smith who wears dresses over trousers with trainers to go shopping. The blouson blouse that the male models wear remind me of the original Romeo and Juliet film. It is romantic, and historic, but feminine and modern with the use of added embellishment along the cuff, and the gold chain belt high on the waist. The shape of the suits are long, and tailored, with the look resembling that of an oversized jacket, t-shirt, and skinny trousers, but it has been refined with the quality of tweed used. Karl Lagerfeld has been influenced by the rich, and men who travel a lot and travel in style. This profile is similar to that of the Miss Francesca Couture range that I as a buyer intend to create. This pre-fall collection only reiterates the idea of the new modern man, and how there is a niche in the market to bring a more high fashion and futuristic sense of style to the masses. Although feminine looking when the outfit is brought together, as separate pieces they could be worn by any man. The pattern is consistently used throughout, and the use of the tweed high top trainers with brown leather trim is conventional; this could be introduced into the Miss Francesca Couture brand to add more depth and extra profit if a customer does not want to invest in a whole outfit. This is usually how designers make their revenue; focusing on the accessories, footwear, and jewellery. This business strategy would be highly beneficial for the Miss Francesca Couture brand as it is cheaper to produce and buy in high volume.
CHANEL PRE FALL 2016//PARIS
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Sulvam is a designer that showcased their autumn/winter 2015 collection is Tokyo used relaxed casual designs and transformed them into formal outfits that a rich in texture, and modernity. The use of colour, a pop here and there, is bright and on trend with the rusty copper tones against the dark hues of midnight black and navy. What is interesting is the styling of the suits, with one look including a black waistcoat/corset hybrid that almost looks like an obi belt and reflects the heritage of the designer.
The length of the shirt, the oversized coats, they all can fit well with the gender fluid concept of the menswear range that I as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture intend to include. The palazzo trousers, with raised hem, almost looking like a loose dress, adds to the modern cool man that they are representing, and who I would like Miss Francesca Couture would like to represent with the new range.
Sulvam uses colour blocking and texture blocking that brings the look together, and emphasises the different shapes. It brings the artisan trend to the forefront with the use of shapes that hang over the shoulders without looking ill-fitting.
The key pieces from this catwalk collection are the palazzo trousers and longline shirt. The palazzo trousers can be cropped and worn similar to a skirt. The free flowing style is more relaxed and avant garde than the typical skinny trousers and skinny tie attire. It is fresh, and modern, and could bring in more customers to the Miss Francesca Couture brand.
SULVAM A/W 15// TOKYO
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Michael Kors uses the distinct colours of olive green, grey, camel, and navy, to produce an autumn/winter 2015 collection that evokes the jet set lifestyle typical of the Michael Kors customer.
The style is conservative, and American, with influences from New York city and the heritage of
the 1950’s and 70’s but with a more modern twist that includes lighter materials, and low pointed collars. Like most menswear, there is a tailored suits and coats in this collection, which is what I as a buyer would introduce with the menswear range at Miss Francesca Couture, but instead of using the neutral earth tones, there will be brighter colours such as pink, purple, and emerald. There is a vintage feel to the styling of the outfits, with aviator jackets with a shearling collar, and turtle necks and cardigans.
This is popular as it is a constant in most autumn/winter 2016 collections in menswear, with updates to colour and details such as button positioning and shape of trousers and coats; for example, tapered, oversized, or skinny etc. The patterns are scarce, but they do show up in a shirt or the lining of a coat; this flash of
colour is subtle but updates the clothes for the modern man who wants to be different from the crowd; however the Michael Kors menswear range tends not to change with the seasons, and is stagnant with appealing to newer customers who are more well versed in fashion. This niche is untapped, and the Miss Francesca Couture menswear range will bring in the quirky colour and styling for the modern man.
MICHAEL KORS A/W 15// NEW YORK
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Jeremy Scott is an eclectic American designer, who uses cartoon prints and patterns to create quirky and kitsch collections that are influenced heavily by his childhood and pop culture. This gives him the freedom to use bright colours, and clash patterns, without losing the appeal of the consumer as he conceals the master tailoring of his trousers and shirts with the kooky pattern and colour. The style of Jeremy Scott’s autumn/winter 2016 collection is like a man in children’s clothing, with the short hemlines, small collars, and close fitting jumpers.
The autumn/winter season often causes designers to repeat the same designs as the previous year, with small updates in colour. However, Jeremy Scott is unafraid of producing a colourful, slightly spring/summer inspired collection for autumn/winter. The customer is young, more than likely mid-thirties, which is similar to the customer profile that I have produced as the buyer for the new menswear range at Miss Francesca Couture.
The range that I am intending to bring to the Miss Francesca Couture menswear line is fun, playful, and gender fluid. The colours could be an abstract of the colours used by Jeremey Scott as both brands share similar fashion aesthetics.
The use of pattern, colour, and style, brings people into the range, and provokes a reaction. On a global scale, in order to separate the Miss Francesca Couture brand from its competitors it is important to be fearless.
However, I do not think that it is necessary to ostracise the mass market from wanting to buy the clothes that are in the new menswear range. It is important to find a balance between being ‘off beat’ as a trend, and producing wearable fashion. For example not using too many prints, or too much colour, that could become garish and reflect badly on the brand.
The key trends I have chosen that could be equally big next autumn/winter season is the woven bib shirt, and the dungarees. I believe through my research of this collection and comparing it to the key trends for the autumn/winter 2016 season, that it could be a look that could be unique to Miss Francesca Couture brand for menswear; it could become a new version of a suit, or it could be more of a casual evening wear outfit.
JEREMY SCOTT A/W 15// MILAN
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Liu Jia is the founder of Commes Tu Es, a Beijing based designer who specialises in womenswear, childrenswear, and menswear which is based around tailoring. Liu travelled around France for several years after graduating from Mod’Art academy. This influence can be seen in her designs, especially in the autumn/winter 2015 collection that she showed in Shanghai. There is a romantic feel to the clothes, with rose applique, and colourful patterns, that you would find in any European show during fashion week.
What makes this collection stand out is the attention to detail in regards to the colour variation, and colour blocking. For example, the use of red roses, with high contrast green leaves against an almost uniform black suit with white shirt. It elevates the whole outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. The same can be said for the all white suit with pink flower applique detail, with falling petals. It is charming, and feminine, but it does not lose the masculine appeal due to the tailoring which is masterful.
The shape of the clothes is similar to that of Italian designers, like Dolce and Gabanna. The models are not typical male models, they have grit and they have a masculine posturing that adds a different dimension to the designs, which is similar to what I would want to bring in to the Miss Francesca Couture range; it will be quirky and different to other menswear lines that are on the market, but it will not lose the traditional values of menswear; clean lines, tailoring, and a sleek sense of style.
The key pieces of this catwalk collection are the trends that could be one of the top trends of the next autumn/winter season, because playful patterns seem to be used more frequently than before and men in all the markets from fast fashion, high end, and designer, are wanting to have more choice and variation in the styles that are constant; like a paisley print shirt, or printed blazer.
COMMES TU ES A/W 2015// SHANGHAI
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Tim Blanks called this collection by Christopher Bailey as ‘classically bohemian’. The colour was there, but it was muted and matte. Mustard, green, and paisley red prints, were all included in the eclectic seventies inspired catwalk. The influence is stark, and the outfits were styled effortlessly, as if the models had styled themselves to their own personal taste. The shape of the
clothes was loose, but the velvet suit were tailored, and sleek against the frame of the models wearing them.
This collection is globally influenced, the layering of the clothes reminded me of a far east harem, and maybe that was the inspiration for the collection. As a buyer brining in a new line for Miss Francesca Couture, this alerts me to the point that I will need a strong identity for this line, so it can be successful around the world. It is important for the consumer to identify with the range, and understand its purpose.
Christopher Bailey downplays the classical tailoring and the heritage of the Burberry brand with the bohemian theme. It creates a relaxed feel, but not too relaxed. It seems structured, but without the usual suspects of a full suit, or trench coat etc. It is modern, but does feel like a step forward into the 1970’s as opposed to a step back. That is important to note also, is that it is okay to be influenced by a theme, but not be overtaken by the theme and lose the integrity of the brand.
It personifies London throughout the ages, the brand is connected with the city it was born into. The Miss Francesca Couture brand can not lose its connection to the city of Liverpool, and there is a lot of inspiration to be taken from the history of Liverpool and the mix of cultures. The range could be influenced by the history of the Liverpool, but on a global stage.
The Miss Francesca Couture menswear range could be impeccably tailored suits, separate shirts and trousers, but with prints and textures that are modern and different. I like the muted tones in the Burberry collection, and believe they could prove fruitful for the Miss Francesca Couture brand as it appeals to mass market and high end consumers.
The key trends from this catwalk are the co-ord suit, with high waist and tapered bottom, and the blanket coat. The two pieces summarise the bohemian aesthetic of the Burberry show for autumn/winter 2015, and I believe from my research as a buyer
for Miss Francesca Couture that they will be the two key trends to continue to the next autumn/winter season, because of the style, and ability to manipulate the texture and pattern to fit the key trends. References Vogue, (2016). Burberry Fall 2015 Menswear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/burberry-prorsum [Accessed 7 Jan. 2016].
BURBERRY A/W 2015// LONDON
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 2015 collection in Paris was a mixture of classic suits from the 1980’s to glam rock cropped suit jackets made from silk metallic silk. There was also oversized drop shoulder wrap coat tied with a thin belt, while other coats were wrapped with wide black belts. There was an inclusion of one or two male models wearing dresses but they were overtly masculine. The style is out of this world, coming from another dimension. Vivienne Westwood has always perpetuated the gender fluid movement in fashion, and this was no different. The emphasis was on the shape as opposed to anything else, however the material used is of a high quality, but manipulated in a more relaxed way.
Like the other designers, there is a strong emphasis on tailored suits, however I would consider these suits as more power suits from the 1980’s than heritage suits that are universally traditional. The exaggerated broad shoulder design is something that as a buyer for the new Miss Francesca Couture menswear range would fit the brand. It evokes a
powerful image, and also a theatrical shape that would suit the womenswear range that I intend to create as well for autumn/winter 2017.
The colour pallet is subdued greys and browns, with a small portion of glamour in the metallic silk and taffeta designs. It looks casual, and it looks ‘normal’ which would suit the mass market, but if a wild pattern was used over the
waistcoat, the jackets, or even the belts, it would add something extra. I believe from my research that this will be the next step and the next trend for autumn/winter 2016/17.
The key pieces from this catwalk show is the thin wool wrap coats, and oversized double breasted blazers. Both of these trends evoke the glamorous 1980’s them of the collection, and could be utilised in the Miss Francesca Couture menswear autumn/winter 2016 range as patterns can be added to the blazer, and colour blocking around the lapel and pocket area could be used. The shawl can also be included as an add on extra accessory, and the material’s used could be metallic knitted jersey or wool.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD A/W 15// PARIS
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
This Gucci collection was the first without design Frida Giannini, and was instead led by the brands accessories designer Alessandro Michele. The designs are very much connected to the 1970’s era, almost a replication of the high fashion of the era with primary colours abound, and floral prints over quintessentially seventies dark orange, and burgundy suits. What made it stand out however was the short sleeved blazers, highlighting the pearlescent coloured shirts underneath.
The piping on the burgundy suit added something extra that noted the influence of the dandy style from the 70’s and 80’s, making the collection kitsch, but also current as it fits the profile of who the modern man of today would wear. The modern man has changed a lot over the years, and more and more men from the cities around the UK and globe are interested in experimenting with colour, pattern, fit and style. The fit of the clothes at the Gucci catwalk was slim, and
would suit a slim figure. Unlike other designers, Gucci have caught onto the trend that does not seem to be going away; men are getting slimmer and reflecting the rock star look of the 1980’s. The colour and patterns used on the suits at the Gucci show would fit well with the range that I intend to bring to Miss Francesca Couture as their buyer because it coincides with the customer profile that I have created for the male Miss Francesca Couture customer.
The use of bold colours against lighter coloured trousers and shirts emphasises the whole outfit, and fits the theme of seventies dandy. I believe that this theme would not suit the Miss Francesca Couture range, as it feels outdated, even though some of the detailing is modern, the overall feel of the collection is too dark for the Miss Francesca Couture womenswear and childrenswear collection. However, if the prints were brighter, and the background darker, it would be a more fitting style for Miss Francesca Couture, and that is something I as the buyer would look into when curating the range.
The CAD’s that I have chosen as the key pieces in this collection are the pattern single button blazer, which could have a variety of colours woven into the fabric, and on the inner lining. Also, the blouson blouse that has pleats and is made from a flowing material is very seventies nu-romantic, and could work well within the Miss Francesca Couture menswear brand, as it is a daring image and relates to the experimental nature of the male customer that we want to attract.
GUCCI A/W 15// MILAN
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Edgar Carrascal showcased their menswear collection or the autumn/winter season 2015 in Barcelona. The theme was gemotrics, with modern shapes and clean lines. Primary colours, red and blue, were used consistently throughout. There was some flower applique details on the shirts that were subtle, and conveyed a contemporary look that you are more likely to see at London fashion week, than in mainlan Europe. One of the shirts is tied at the front, and oversized along the arms, with a short sharp collar around the neck. The style is similar to that of the mods in London circa 1950-60. The oversized blazer in a red shine finished material looked a lot like the rude boy era of fashion in the 1980’s, and also seemed to take
influence from Boy George. The pinstripe long shirt over plain black skinny trousers represents the gender fluid trend that has become mainstream at the beginning of 2016. It is becoming more accepted in the USA and in the UK for men to dress in a more stereotypical feminine shape, with long lines and sleek tailored trousers. The Edgar Carrascal’s catwalk for autumn/winter 2015 reflects the society that we live in today, with more men preferring a ‘smart/casual’ look as opposed to evening wear. This is something that I must make note of as I have researched in other catwalk trends where heritage is still at the forefront, but the target customer for the new Miss Francesca Couture menswear range is leaning towards this more modern uniformed look. The range will be built around a winter evening wear theme, but it will be more modern and futuristic in design, shape, and style similar to this catwalk trend from Edgar Carrascal.
EDGAR CARRASCAL A/W 15// BARCELONA
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Ratier is a designer from Sao Paulo. The autumn/winter collection for 2016-17 included dark colours, but also pop’s of orange. The material used has satin sheen, and exudes luxury casual/evening wear, which seems to be an ongoing trend from the autumn/winter 2015 season.
Once again, we see the ‘modern man’ who negates heritage and favours a more feminine style. There a little to no patterns used in this catwalk, instead Ratier uses a modern colour palate of dark blue and green, and bright greys, which are common autumn/winter colours but the material that he uses are wearable leather and cotton.
The style of the male models is dishevelled, and not ‘put together’, it fits the ‘remaster’ main trend for the autumn/winter 2016 season. Miss Francesca Couture menswear range may focus on a more tailored style, but the key trends that I as the
buyer for Miss Francesca Couture would bring in include the relaxed shirt, short collar and single button blazer. However, the length of the t-shirts and the outwear could be introduced if the autumn/winter 2016 range is successful, as to make a dent in the global market it is important to have a depth within the menswear range that does not only appeal to the men who need a suit for an event, but to a wider variety of the target market. The colour is too dark for the range that I am hoping to bring into the Miss Francesca Couture menswear brand, however I intend to use colour blocking in the range
and this could include using the subdued colours that can be seen at the Ratier catwalk show and placing it with a purple or green contrast collar, blazer, or trim.
The key trends that I have highlighted from this collection include the single button blazer, and waterproof jacket that could be transformed into an evening jacket; maybe make it reversible with one side a dark waterproof sheen material,
and the other an outrageous print. Another key trend is skinny trousers which is a continuous trend that can be found throughout the autumn/winter season, which adds a youthful touch to the menswear collections.
RATIER A/W 2016// SAO PAULO
Task 9 Menswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns The menswear trends that have stood out during my research of trends of autumn/winter 2016 include feminine shapes, texture, and colour. Also, geometric patterns. However, there have been macro trends of ‘urban’ clothes that reflect a more sporty world.
Jeremey Scott showed colour cartoon print shirts and trousers. This was a daring look, but what is interesting is in the detail; slim trousers, longline shirt with oversized sleeves. It is
‘Nu-Dandy Jet Setter’: Menswear Range Trend Analysis A/W 15/16:
very bohemian 1980’s, with influence from Boy George.
Ratier showcased a dark and moody colour pallet, with the shirt material used adding a shine. This collection looked to have been influenced by Blade Runner/The Matrix with its futuristic oversized layered clothing, and use of leather blazers and hooded jackets.
FEMININE
Edgar Carrascal’s collection was filled with floral patterns, a dark romantic influence from the Edwardian era, with a ‘dandy’ feel. Once again there were longline oversized shirts, but also pussy bow neck ties, and oversized tuxedo jacket in a burnt maroon colour with black lapels and added applique detail on the shoulder. It was theatrical, but the shapes can be replicated for the new Miss Francesca Couture range.
CONTRAST
The Gucci collection could be the direct inspiration for the new Miss Francesca Couture menswear range, the suits are skinny, the influence of the 1980’s rock star era is apparent. The colour pallet is dark and sumptuous, and partners harmoniously with the lighter colours used for the shirts. It has a 1960’s feel, and I felt it seemed similar to the outfits worn in ‘A Single Man’, directed by Tom Ford, whose history with Gucci seems to have influenced this collection.
Vivienne Westwood’s collection showcased very feminine shapes, but also masculine shapes, both creations a clear juxtaposition of the 1980’s era that influenced Vivienne in this collection. The colour pallet was not anything to swoon over, it was typical 80’s. However the non formal evening wear was theatrical and has inspired me as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture to consider the 1980’s as a theme in the new menswear range, as it is becoming apparent that it is a clear trend throughout the ten collections I have researched.
1980’S
The Burberry collection is ultra bohemian, and takes inspiration from the 1970’s. The two era’s; 70’s and 80’s, are clear trends for this upcoming autumn/winter season. On a global scale, it is everywhere. The floral prints, the oversized shawls, and muted earth tones in a various of patterns and textures. There is a glam rock style to the clothes, men are becoming rock stars who do not care for stereotypes and just want to be as fashionable as the women.
Commes Tu Es had a collection filled with suits and floral applique patterns on the blazers, very romantic, and feminine, but with strong tailoring highlighting the masculine influence.
Chanel showed a lot of its signature Tweed that has made its womenswear famous, but now makes its menswear even more famous. It felt feminine, clearly indicating the feminine trend for the new season. The shapes and use of skirts over trousers has inspired me as a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture to include this in the new autumn/winter range, because it is different and I believe it could be a great trend to include as it adds to the feminine trend and ‘nu-dandy’ theme that I want to bring in to the range.
Michael Kors showcased the typical ‘Kors’ look, which was centred around the jet set lifestyle. Classic heritage tailoring, and styling. The colours were diluted, but if bright colours and patterns were included then it could be part of the feminine trend, and appear more modern. This is something I will look at when curating the Miss Francesca Couture range.
Sulvam, a Tokyo designer, was inspired by its countries heritage. However, it was also not afraid to welcome the modern man into its collection; with feminine shapes, and oversized trousers and coats. The colour pallet did not stray from black and white, adding to the monochrome trend that has appeared sporadically throughout the menswear autumn/winter 2016 collections. The oversized look is very contemporary, and urban, it goes against the gran of tailoring, and adds a more relaxed and powerful style to the clothing. This could be utilised in the new Miss Francesca Couture range, as it is something other brands and designers that are our competitors have not used as of yet.
BOLD
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Bomayte is a Beijing designer and their collection for autumn/winter 2015 was influenced by the ‘mini me’
trend which has become a popular key trend for the last few autumn/winter seasons, especially in Europe. The trend includes miniature versions of adult clothing; instead of the usual t-shirts and viscose flower dresses. Instead, this trend is all about the parent being able to express their style through their children. There is something playful about a child wearing a double breasted wool coat with wool trousers, and a multicolour faux fur stole or caplet. Around Christmas time when parents want their children to have nice clothes for family occasions around Christmas Day, it’s outfits that were seen at Bomyate that would fit into that category.
I am bringing in an autumn/winter 2016 kidswear range to Miss Francesca Couture. Even though the brand already has a bespoke service where they design and create children’s clothing, they do not have a ready to buy range, which is preventing them from growing as a company and they are missing out on an important niche in their target market of woman who are over 25 and have a family.
The key trends that could be used for the new Miss Francesca Couture range is the use of faux fur in multi coloured prints, which would coincide with the bright pop colours that already exist in the womenswear range currently at the brand. The mini me trend would work well in the UK market and the North American market, and as this catwalk is from Beijing, the research of this trend proves that it could be equally popular in Asia also; creating an entry into the retail market in China for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. The colour pallet is also similar to the one I have researched for the kidswear brand in my concept board for the new range. It includes bright canary yellows, deep velvet purple, and a bright primary blue colour. This research has helped me conclude that going forward in this colourful direction is not a whimsical idea, and
that there is evidence that it could be proven successful for the Miss Francesca Couture kidswear range debut.
BOMAYTE A/W 2015// BEIJING
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Petite Parade is a bi-annual kidswear fashion show that includes numerous established kidswear designers as well as up and coming kidswear designers. It is show in New York City.
The show includes a variation of designs and from researching their catwalk show for autumn/winter 2015, I found that the key trends included faux fur, colourful prints, and mini me leather jacket. Each designer conveyed their own ideology, but did not stray too far from the key trends. What was interesting was the amount of fur on the catwalk, and how it was used as a trim on cardigans and around the collar. The images that I have picked out from the catwalk show the 1920 influence on the designs, as the outfits were similar to that of traditional old Hollywood glamour, but with a modern twist with contrast sleeves in metallic material, or fur pom pom’s on the girls shoes.
The red one shoulder dress/cape hybrid reminded me of the Guo Pei coat that Rihanna wore to the MET Gala in 2015. The influence of womenswear on girls childrenswear is apparent, and as a buyer for an establish womenswear boutique Miss Francesca Couture
it would be fitting to include some high fashion inspired pieces similar to the fur cardigan and dress/cape. I think the target market of women who care about fashion and love have fun with fashion would appreciate this in the new kidswear girls range.
PETITE PARADE A/W 2015// NEW YORK
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
JNBY is a Beijing based fashion design company that showed this collection at Beijing fashion week for the autumn/winter 2015 season. The inspiration by this collection is freedom of expression for children, as opposed to the parents. The children are dressed in simple clothes and bright colours, and the womenswear trends of the season are not imposed upon them. What can be easily overlooked with this collection is the attention to detail in regards to the shape of the clothes, even though they are not ornate or covered in a pattern, the trapeze shape is similar to what can be seen on the catwalks of womenswear designers.
The colour consists of mainly primary colours that are bright and stark. Even though this is an autumn/winter collection, there is a summer brightness in the colours that have been chosen. This is a kin to the idea that I as a buyer would bring into the first Miss Francesca Couture kidswear collection for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season. However, I would most likely choose pink and purple colours to coincide with the colours used in the womenswear and menswear ranges.
Unlike the other kidswear collections that I have researched, this collection has a modern style that puts the children’s interest first. The shape of the dresses and the style is easy for the child to run, play, and mess around in. That is something as a new kidswear buyer I would have to be aware of, as these clothes must be enjoyable for the child to wear, as well as enjoyable for the parent to dress them up in.
Moreover, including simple shapes and colours in the collection highlights the tailoring of the clothing, and for the modern family this is something that has proven a key trend; sleek simple lines, that any parent could buy into, in any part of the world. The different seasons globally mean that any inclusion of a fur trim, or a woollen material, could isolate key target markets that could prevent the brand from growing on a global scale. What seems to be a universal trend is simplicity, and
contemporary fashion, but that does not mean that Miss Francesca Couture cannot add their signature detailing, to make it extra special and different from the competitors on the market.
JNBY A/W 2015// BEIJING
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Fun and Fun is a designer from Florence, Italy. Their autumn/winter 2015/16 collection included sequin
dresses, padded metallic coats with a fur hood, and floral print co-ord suits. The collection is casual, and fun, with the co-ord set similar to that of a womenswear outfit.
The key shapes are loose trapeze dresses and tops, padded coats, and pattern suits. The influence appears to come from urban inner city clothing for the more casual pieces, but the more evening wear style pieces are similar in style to that of their Italian counterparts, Dolce and Gabanna.
The pattern on the co-ord outfit is dark, with the flowers a bright colour, it looks like an ornate tapestry, and something that could be worn by an Italian mother to Church. This European influence is something that the
Miss Francesca Couture kidswear range could bring in to the debut range, with the floral suit a key trend that could be replicated for the UK and global market. It can easily be a shadow of a mini me style design for the womenswear range. The colour pallet is dark, with rich colours even in the red and blue colours used in the prints, reflecting the winter nights in Italy.
The key pieces I have chosen from this collection include the relaxed swing t-shirt, and sequin dress. Both of these items would suit the target customer for the Miss Francesca Couture range, and would be on trend during the autumn/winter 2016 season. It is comfortable for the child to wear, and puts their comfort in focus.
FUN&FUN A/W 2015// FLORENCE
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Agatha Ruiz De La Prada is a Spanish designer, who specialises in fun and quirky prints and colours for every season. This collection was in tune with the womens ready to wear collection in the same season. She has fun with her colours, and is testament proof that the fashion ‘rules’ do not apply in childrenswear.
The mix of pink and white stripes with a blue top adds a funky twist to a casual look, that can be worn as a smart outfit depending on the occasion. The colourful coats, pink and orange, are her signature colours and brighten up the winter months. The key trends from this collection are the bright colours, which appear throughout the childrenswear
collections around the world. Children want to have fun, and play with their clothes, and parents want their child to be comfortable. The prints can be introduced to the Miss Francesca Couture kidswear range, and the shades of pink fit with the identity of the brand.
Winter coats are a staple for any child’s wardrobe. I have researched the macro trends of the padded coat, and fur cape, and now the collarless coat which can be seen on the womenswear catwalk and across the high street is also a popular choice for childrenswear. It may not look warm, but the material they use; wool, knit jersey, is what makes this a key piece for autumn/winter 2016.
The colour that Agatha Ruiz De La Prada uses reminds me of the brazillian favelas, that are painted bright colours, and colour block the Rio mountains. The idea of shining bright during the dark winter months is something that I could bring into the new Miss Francesca Couture kidswear range.
AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA A/W 15// MADRID
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
One of the key trends that never really goes away with every autumn/winter season is chunky knitwear, and jersey knits. The material can be dyed in various ways, and can even have a pattern woven into them. The Kids Fashion Festival in Moscow for autumn/winter 2015 showcased a lot of long cardigans in creams and grey colour. They also have poncho’s that had long sleeves, and were cropped at the front. The colours are cute, but they are easy to wear all together and layer depending on the weather wherever you are around the world.
The collection is more casual, and less about occasion wear but there are key trend pieces that could be used to illustrate what could be seen in the 2016/17 autumn/winter season. For example the shape is not what you could typically find in a high street store; the t-shirts are long and hang like a swing dress, and tshirts that fall just above the knee.
This key trend of oversized casual wear is an easy style to wear for any child, and can be layered over trousers, jeans, or skirts. The Miss Francesca Couture debut kidswear collection could include oversized tops that could be dresses, and oversized chunky knitwear of high quality wool. The Kids Fashion Festival seems to have been influence by the animals native the Russia, and the colour pallet used has been derived from this theme. Graphic prints are frequently used in kidswear, and are nearly always part of kidswear collections in all seasons.
The Miss Francesca Couture kidswear collection could include graphic print jumpers, and printed swing dresses, as they appear to be on trend for the autumn/winter 2016 season.
KIDS FASHION FESTIVAL A/W 15// MOSCOW
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Sun Tomorrow is a designer from Beijing. This collection is minimalist, and includes colour blocking and tailoring. Boys wear tends to sometimes only include two trends; active sportswear, tailored suits. It is refreshing to see that designers are becoming more abstract with their collections for boys, and are not falling back on the stereotypical sportswear boy trend that leaves little options for parents who want clothes with more variation.
Sun Tomorrow has included three trends that could be used by the new boys range for Miss Francesca Couture. The first trend is the use of primary colours; green and blue, which are two colours that you might not see too often in the high street or high end markets during the autumn/winter seasons. The high neck collar and minimalist cotton shirt and cotton trouser co-ord has a style that is cool, sleek, and fashion forward. The colour is bright, and creates clean lines throughout the outfit, and it also looks comfortable for the child to wear.
The shape of the outfits are relaxed, and fit with the oversized trend that seems to be in almost every collection throughout the three main target markets. It is a classic winter staple to have an oversized coat if you are a man, so of course it is fitting that the little man would have something similar at his disposal. The tailored suit is the third trend, and it is more popular than ever as parents look to smarten up their children for every occasion. The pin stripe pattern is quirky, and I could see this as a mini me version of a more adult design in the Miss Francesca Couture menswear range.
The collection is off beat, and plays with the stereotypical ideas of what we believe to be autumn and winter clothing for children; the use of patterns and colours are more futuristic.
SUN TOMORROW A/W 2015// BEIJING
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Philipp Plein Junior is a designer based in Florence. The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection focuses on the urban trend, even with their evening wear; it can be worn on the street and to any occasion.
As a buyer for the boys kidswear Miss Francesca Couture range I could see this being a mini me version of the menswear collection. Leather is the perfect material for autumn/winter, and it is instantly recognisable because of the heritage behind it; James Dean, and Marlon Brando, popularising it in 1950’s Hollywood. This collection seems influenced by the New York City cool kids, with hipster parents who want their children to
look cool but not overtly branded with designer names.
The shape of the trousers are similar to the trousers that I saw throughout the menswear trend report that I conducted, they are skinny and do not look comfortable for boys to wear, they are truly a trend that is straight from the catwalk and I could see the skinny trouser being a part of the new boy’s range that I will be brining into the new Miss Francesca Couture kidswear line.
PHILIPP PLEIN JUNIOR A/W 2015// FLORENCE
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Il Gufo is a designer brand based in Florence. Their autumn/winter 2015 collection featured bright colours as their key trends, and puffer jackets.
The style of the jackets and the outfits in this collection remind me of
Disney, and Prince Charming in Snow White. There is an innocence in the style of the clothing; with the only key trend being the bright primary colours of yellow and blue.
The puffer jacket design is similar to the puff daddy coat from the 90’s that was popular in New York City and the urban cities of the UK. This twist of fairy-tale and the modern man works well. I could see this style of jacket selling well in the Miss Francesca Couture boys range, and creating something similar for the menswear range.
IL GUFO A/W 15// FLORENCE
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Ralph Lauren’s autumn/winter 2015 collection was inspired by the adventurous sprit of the
characters from ‘Peter Pan’. The collection was filled with varsity jackets, and colourful prints.
Although the theme was based around ‘Peter Pan’, it was very much engrained in the New York state of mind, with gritty jackets layered over formal tuxedo’s a juxtaposition to the theme.
The general mood of this collection is ‘cool’ and ‘hipster’. It is a trend that is not going away, as more and more parents are becoming successful at a younger age and want to be
experimental with their children’s clothes to match the modern world that we live in today; gender fluidity and off beat style are the two major trends that will continue to grow into the next autumn winter cycle.
This sense of creative freedom can be seen in the collision of patterns, colours, and shapes. Miss Francesca Couture’s boys range will not be a mix of different themes, but the check patterns could work well on the suits that I plan to include in the range.
RALPH LAUREN A/W 15// NEW YORK
Task 9 Kidswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Throughout the childrenswear collections focused on bright primary colours, with graphic print t-shirts and jumpers.
‘MINI-ME’: Kidswear Range Trend Analysis A/W 15/16:
Childrenswear in autumn/winter 2016 is very fanciful and includes trapeze shapes in girlswear, and sleek tailored looks
in the boyswear collections.
WHIMSICAL
There is a clear theme of ‘mini-me’ outfits in both girls and boys wear. This is a major trend for Autumn/Winter 2016 that I as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture will bring into the new kidswear range. It is fun, and cute, to see little children wearing shrunk down bomber jackets and suits for both boys and girls.
COLOURFUL Bomayte is a designer from this research that has influenced the shape of the new Miss Francesca Couture range, with fur trims, mini-me dresses and coats.
Sun Tomorrow is a designer that has also influenced the boys wear range for Miss Francesca Couture, as there is colour
blocking, and oversized contemporary coats and tailored pinstrip suits. All of which are overtly cute, and fanciful. It must be remembered when curating a kidswear range that as a buyer I am trying to entice the parents to buy the clothes, as opposed to the children. Parents could be intrigued by the mini-me range, and choose it over other competitors.
The mini-me trend is a global trend, and can be seen all over the world in numerous catwalks. It is a trend that seems to be staying for a long time, and to not include it in the Miss Francesca Couture range would be a mistake, and cause a loss in profit.
MINI-ME
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Reem Acra is a designer based in New York city. Pre Fall is when most designers push out their clothes before the ‘bridal season’ according to WWD. They also mention how a lot of the celebrities who attend awards season wear clothes that are released in pre-fall.
The inspiration for this collection came from dream dresses that woman would love to wear and feel like Princesses. The structure of the bodice is clean and simple, with pleating and draping graduating down the dress of cornflower blue. The bright pink dress looks very summery, but there are darker tones of pink against the nude background.
The key trend from this is pastel colours, draping, and a high waist that is not quite an empire waist, but is low enough to balance the silhouette in a flattering way. The length of the dresses are also a statement trend, and this could be used in the Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range for autumn/winter 2016. Competitors of Miss Francesca Couture have dresses that are of
this length, but Miss Francesca Couture does not have dresses of this length currently, it would beneficial to introduce a longer length dress in this pleating style, as women could wear it to weddings, birthdays or work events that require black tie. Opening up the options offered to the customer allows new customers to come into the fold.
Reem Acra is known for their classic designs, with a contemporary twist; either with colour, material, or applique detail. The collection is fanciful, and is reminicisnt of the time when Grace Kelly was Queen of Monaco, she had an old Hollywood glamour to her, but was modern in her sense of style.
References Iredale, J. (2015). Reem Acra Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/new-york/reem-acra/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
REEM ACRA PRE FALL A/W 16// NEW YORK
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Antonio Beradi is a British designer of Sicilian descent, and his heritage is reflected in his pre-fall 2016 collection that he showed in London.
There was a sensuality in his pieces, despite the monochrome and geometric contemporary cutouts and colours. There is a mix of long dresses, short dress and mid-length dresses. All of which add a variant to his collection, and are inspired by the theme which WWD speaks about in their review: ‘…a 19th century French brothel…’
The colour pallet is dark, but also light in contrasting places, and this brings the collection into the future. The co-ord suits have low necklines, exuding sexuality, but also a masculinity in the shape of the trousers which are wide along the hem. The mini dress is short in length, and shows a lot of skin, but the half moon patterns across the chest add an artistic flair to it, and minimise the overtly sexual theme that it could easily be.
There is a hint of cubism in the design, an art form that perceived the future, just like this collection is perceiving the future winter scope of the world; it seems cold but the woman is powerful. Power dressing was popular in the 1980’s, and it seems to be coming back around again in the future autumn/winter trend for 2016.
Miss Francesca Couture is represented by a lot of powerful women, successful women, but the clothes sometimes do not reflect that. The key trend of power dressing needs to be developed in the new range that I curate as the buyer.
References Turra, A. (2015). Antonio Berardi Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/milan/antonioberardi/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
ANTONIO BERADI PRE FALL 2016// LONDON
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Erdem is a fashion designer based in London. Their pre-fall 2016 collection is
influenced by the Edwardian era, and baroque prints are all over the dresses, with peplum frills and sleeves.
Fit for a winter ball in a French Chateau, the shapes in this collection include puff shoulders, and fluted sleeves. The patterns are bold, and anti-archaic. The colour pallet is similar to that of the other designers that I have researched for this trend forecast; pale blue, dark floral patterns, metallic prints, and applique flowers on the lace of the red dress.
Erdem spoke of the inspiration for this collection coming from John Sargent paintings, and how the models were stoically placed in the painting with romantic ruffles and prints on their gowns. It is beautiful, but it is also quirky.
Miss Francesca Couture already has a similar collection in the ready to wear range, but it is not as detailed as this is. The theme of using a historic time for patterns and shapes could fit well with the range that I intend to build for the womenswear range.
References Marfil, L. (2015). Erdem Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/london/erdem/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
ERDEM PRE FALL 2016// LONDON
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Goga Ashkenazi is the designer for Vionnet. In the pre fall collection Vionnet. WWD describes this collection as ‘comfortable elegance’, they have used high end materials, and relaxed silhouettes to achieve a look that is inspired from Greek goddesses. The boat neck balances out the shoulders against the cascading frills that expose the lighter colour underneath the pale blue.
Yet again the colours are similar to previous research that I have conducted; monochrome,
and pale blue colour. The shape of the trapeze dress, which seems to be made from a lightweight material with a burnt out pattern across the chest. It adds a hard gothic theme, but with a fanciful romantic material.
The Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range would include more long dresses similar to Vionnet, but not as romantic as they have skewed their collection. Paris is a romantic city, but I believe to compete with its competitors Miss Francesca
Couture must look towards the inner city for their destination of inspiration. References Turra, A. (2016). Vionnet Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/paris/vionnet/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
VIONNET PRE FALL 2016// PARIS
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele’s pre fall collection was inspired by a surreal moment in time, with opulence similar to that in a Wes Anderson film like ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’.
There is a mix of eclectic themes to make this collection, including a mix of fashion constants like pleated skirts, shirt, bomber jackets, but adding embroidery, or using metallic material for the pleated skirt.
Nature is a central influence for this collection, which would usually appear in a summer season, but the botanical graphics are distinctively dark like winter.
The patterns used are retro, a kin to seventies fashion. The lack of formality in the colour and pattern blocking adds to the casual feel of this collection.
As the buyer for the Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range I do not want this to occur in the collection. I would like there to be a focused clarity and distinct theme that has key pieces, as opposed to a jumble of pieces. The key trends are metallic materials, busy prints, colour, and romance.
References Turra, A. (2015). Gucci Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/milan/gucci/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
GUCCI PRE FALL 2016// MILAN
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Sonia Rykiel’s pre fall 2016 collection is high on seventies glamour, still a trend from 2015 that does not seem to be dying down. The sleek suits with short sleeves highlight the black as night shirt underneath. The gold metallic material with a black pinstripe pattern adds to the luxurious edible feel to the suit.
Sequins are heavy on the dresses, and the pinstripe detail is used again and again in different forms for the evening wear. This trend of graphic geometric prints is a thread throughout the four major fashion weeks, and appears in all kinds of ways.
The shapes are strong, with dipped hems on the dresses, and overly tailored shrunk suits. The outwear includes a cape that is a dark colour against a bright orange dress underneath, the contrasting colours bring the autumn/winter collection to life against the gold and black colour pallet. There is an influence from David Bowie and Mick Jagger with the style of the outfits in this collection.
Miss Francesca Couture’s womenswear range could bring in black and gold in some of the products which are both winter colours that would fit the brand well.
References Vogue.com, (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/sonia-rykiel [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
SONIA RYKIEL PRE FALL 2016// PARIS
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Rachel Zoe’s inspiration for her pre fall 2016 collection was travel, according to WWD. Rachel Zoe infused the jet set lifestyle in her collection, with shimmering gold metallic dresses that hung off the models like liquid, and bright colourful blocks of colour on her dresses, and a monochrome jumpsuit.
Once again there was a distinct seventies trend that has followed on from the previous autumn/winter season. With flared hemlines, and pussy bow necklines. The fabrics used include silk, velvet, leather, and suede. As well as the bohemian Hollywood
lifestyle that has influenced this collection, she has also been influenced by the glam rock male rock stars of that era.
The key trends are the bright colours, and the monochrome. Also, the metallic materials add a high level of glamour to the collection.
Miss Francesca Couture could find inspiration from this collection over all the others for the womenswear range, as the concept behind the range I intend to build for the brand is similar to this collection and its inspiration of the jet set lifestyle.
The shapes are relaxed, and this could be adapted to my range to make it sleeker, and shorter, and more wearable for the average woman around the world who would buy into this range. References Iredale, J. (2015). Rachel Zoe Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/newyork/rachel-zoe/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
RACHEL ZOE PRE FALL 2016// NEW YORK
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Fendi’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld has brought a contrasting pallet to the pre fall
collection, that was shown in Milan. The metallic colour is prevalent throughout this collection and can be seen on the dresses, and the coats. The fur is also coloured, with a pattern that is influenced by the seventies.
The style is very kitsch, with a hint of heritage seventies Italian grandmothers influencing the style of the clothing. The shapes are, however, modern and can be interpreted as youthful and futuristic. The detail of the mink belt is luxurious, and could easily be replicated in the Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range with coloured faux fur, and make a statement piece for autumn/winter 2016.
The patterns that are used are geometric. This has become a trend in womenswear and menswear, and I assume this will be one of the key trends of the autumn/winter 2016 season. The use of rich materials, and manipulating them with extravagant shapes, adds to the opulence of the collection. Opulence is a key word for autumn/winter 2016. It is a word that I would like to base the Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range collection round, as it is specific.
References Turra, A. (2015). Fendi Pre-Fall 2016. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2016/milan/fendi/review/ [Accessed 8 Jan. 2016].
FENDI PRE FALL 2016// MILAN
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Valentino’s autumn/winter 2015 collection was shown at Milan fashion week. The inspiration behind
the collection was a gothic fairytale, with strong shapes that in some cases were more powerful than the model wearing them. The patterns were stark, symmetrical, and monochrome. The style of the clothes reflects the style of a young woman, and one that is artistic and is more than the clothes she wears. There is no whimsy in this collection, instead there is a seriousness about it with dark colours, and velvet dresses creating a fantasy narrative that could seem more of a performance piece than a fashion show.
However, there are details to the outfits that stand out as macro trends; cut outs, leather, tulle dresses that add a feminine innocence to the hans christian anderson fairytale setting.
The Miss Francesca Couture brand is very bright, and the dark nature of this trend does not fit well with the history of the Miss Francesca Couture brand; however the tulle dress, and leather material, could feature in the new range in a variety of colours. It is important to not be stagnant with each range, and to instead evolve as a brand with the ever evolving trends.
VALENTINO// A/W ‘15 MILAN
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
Hedi Slimane the creative director for Saint Laurent showed the autumn/winter 15/16 collection in Paris. The main inspiration came from rockstars from the 1960’s-80’s, and the male rock stars of those decades; lou reed, bob dylan. All of whom has a penchant for a sleek suit, and minimal colour.
In this collection there are a few key pieces that are hidden behind the poufe skirts and short tulle dresses; the smoking suit that Yves Saint Laurent was famous for comes back every season, but this collection proved to be a turning point as there was a stark contrast from the rest of the collection; it was bold, daring, and sexy without showing a lot of flesh.
The colour is black and white with some neutral shades, but the style of the clothing manifests the coolest character on the catwalk; thin braces, skinny ties, tailored trousers, Madonna esque skirts, and jackets. Not a lot of brands are taking on the androgynous trend for evening wear, however this could become a bigger trend in 2016/17 as more women are becoming aware of feminists beliefs and going against the grain of what society believes is ‘sexy’.
The Miss Francesca Couture womenswear range that I as a buyer would bring it could include skinny suits, but with
bright colours instead of the Parisian black and white. There could be pink, purple, pattern material etc.
SAINT LAURENT A/W ‘15// PARIS
Task 9 Womenswear Trends A/W 2016: Colour, Style, Shape, Influence, Patterns
The womenswear collections that I have researched have pointed me the buyer in the direction of tailored suits for women, and extravagant gowns with tulle, lace, and satin.
The 1970’s was a clear theme throughout the collections, and could be seen in the Rachel Zoe collection as well as Gucci,
‘Seventies Jet Set’: Womenswear Range Trend Analysis A/W 15/16: SEVENTIES GLAMOUR
and Sonia Rykiel. The colours that were popular include shimmering gold and black, almost resembling a liquid texture that adds a dash of luxury. As well as the seventies, there was a monochrome theme with futuristic shapes.
The collections were kitsch, and young, and had a lot of fun with the seventies theme. This has inspired me as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture to include this in the new collection for the brand. There is a mixed pallet of bright Pepto-
THE JET SET
Bismol pinks, and candy reds, as well as liquid metallic gold and black. There is a strong contrast of colours, which gives me the buyer more room for creativity when curating the new range, as the themes are strong and focused, with room for a greater sense of freedom to be creative. Similar to the menswear collections there was a ‘jet set’ underlying theme throughout, with the luxury style behind the clothes coming from the background theme of a jet setting man and woman in the seventies.
Vioennet’s draping and pleating is something that I could introduce to the new womenswear range for the longer dresses,
KITSCH
as it applies to the glamourous seventies theme of the range. It would be interesting to have pleated metallic materials, as opposed to the more traditional pleated silks.
As a buyer I feel that the current competitors of Miss Francesca Couture are all sharing the same theme, and are therefore suffering as there is a lack of choice for the customer. Instead of focusing on the new modern ‘sexy’ woman, I as the buyer
intend to bring in a heritage sexiness to the womenswear collection, with gold, black dresses, and colourful suits that hdd an androgynous Bowie theme to the collection. Reem Acra’s long dresses, that are more Hollywood Oscar gowns than a standard night out dress, could also influence the range. It is romantic and evokes a fairytale aesthetic that would not suit the theme of the range that I intend to bring out for Miss Francesca Couture, but the colours and applique details could be included in a certain way in the range. For example, corsage details, and peplum details.
POWERFUL
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 MENS PRINT/PATTERN
FLORAL
ELECTRIC
GRAPHIC
References WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2016].
POP BOLD
NEUTRAL AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 MENS COLOUR
FAUX FUR
FLORAL
GEOMETRIC VELVET
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 GIRLS FABRIC
References WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2016].
YELLOW
ORANGE NAVY WINE RED
GREY
KHAKI BROWN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 BOYS COLOUR
BLACK
References WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2016].
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 WOMENS ACCESSORY TREND
References WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2016].
VELVET
LEATHER
BELTS
BOOTS
SNAKESKIN METAL
HEELS KITSCH
CORSET FUR CHANDELIER EARRINGS
SCARVES
CHUNKY JEWELERY
LACE LEATHER GLOVES
SATIN
LOOSE
OVERSIZED
PEPLUM
LONG DRAPED
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-17 WOMENS SHAPES
FIT& FLARE
MINI
DETAIL
SHOULDERS
BANDEAU
References WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, (2016). User Login | WGSN | Creating Tomorrow. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/home/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2016].
Task 11: Pinterest A/W 2016 Menswear Board, annotation.
From looking at the overall board, there is a clear overall image that is apparent, and that is tailored suits. There are a few glimmers of bright colours like yellow, green, and burgundy, but there is an overall tone of
monochrome colour. This could be seen as a predictable trend for the autumn/winter season. Similar to the womenswear collections there are two clear trends; feminine dandy, and heritage jet setter. The colour pallet is shared, but the shape is structured with the heritage jet set trend, and more relaxed with the feminine dandy trend.
Burberry in London focuses on the heritage side of autumn/winter trends, where as brands like Moschino in Milan, and Tom Ford in New York, are more outlandish with the interpretation of heritage; they use bright shocking colours, and materials that ten years ago you would not find on the menswear catwalk; velvet, and satin brocade.
Task 11: Pinterest A/W 2016 Womenswear Board, annotation.
The womenswear Pinterest board that I have curated shows two distinct trends coming out of the autumn/winter 2016 season; ultra-
fem, and androgynous.
The ultra-fem trend is filled with tulle, flower applique lace, and hourglass shapes. With the androgynous trend the silhouette is slim, sleek, and defined, with a dark power. Both trends juxtaposition against each other, and like oil and water do not mix together at all this season.
There is a clear seventies and eighties trend arising again this season, with earth tones mixed with psychedelic colours creating a kitsch look. This could be seen at Gucci, in Milan, with its kitsch retro styling of their colour blocking clothes.
Task 11: Pinterest S/S 2016 Menswear Board, annotation.
Spring/Summer menswear forgoes the floral prints, which were used heavily in the autumn/winter season,
and instead uses tropical bird prints, and exotic plant prints. The colours are bright and colourful, and could have been inspired by the Caribbean.
However, the shapes of the clothes; oversized tops, and one button blazers with slim trousers and cropped shorts, seem to have been influenced by the urban scape of the capital cities. The main trend was athletic leisure shapes, and materials, with the colour contrast
high.
Joseph in London was more athletic/leasiure wear orientated in their spring/summer 2016 collection, whereas Christopher Bailey at Burberry was all about the jet set man with classic light-weight trench coat and jersey trousers. Dolce and Gabbana in Milan showcased a variety of prints inspired by wildlife and the tropical forests abroad. It was relaxed under their terms, and whimsical.
Task 11: Pinterest S/S 2016 Womenswear Board, annotation.
Spring/Summer 2016 is filled with flowing oversized dresses, bright co-ord outfits such as shirts tucked into
tulip skirt, or peg trousers etc. It is evoking an exotic traveller who gains inspiration from their travels abroad. There was an Indian theme to the colour and patterns used in the collections shown by Diane Von Furstenberg and Balmain. Colour blocking is not innovative for spring/summer, as it is nearly always a popular trend in this season. However, there was an emphasis on a less tailored look, and more relaxed lines, creating a wonderful collage of colour through out the collections, that seem inspired by sunsets and teal oceans surrounding an island somewhere far away. There were some collections that gained inspiration from the cityscape; with loose cropped jumpers, and high waist paperbag trousers, which highlighted the ongoing athletic wear trend that was not only reserved for a day off from the office; it could be worn to the office also. This athletic work wear was seen at Marina Hoermanseder, in Berlin, and 1205 fashion show in London.
Task 11: Blogging Street Style
https://stylesafariblog.wordpress.com/
Task 11: Blogging Street Style
https://stylesafariblog.wordpress.com/
Task 11: Trend Forecasting Analysis; Why is it important?
Trend forecasting is important within the role of a buyer, as it gives the buyer an insight into trends that have filtered down from the catwalk, and that filter upwards from sub-cultures and street style across the globe. The buyer will travel around the world to see catwalk shows, that do not always have to have taken place in the key cities such as London, Milan, Paris and New York. They could visit cities like Rio, Sydney, and China, to see what trends are popular there and if it is a trend that no other brand has seen or taken on board, and if it is worth the risk brining that trend to the brand that you are the buyer for.
It is important to look at the global arena when building a trend report because the brand that you are buying for could be a global brand that has a larger demographic in Asia and North America, and needs to know what is popular in that part of the world, and what will sell and produce a profit. Moreover, if the company you are buying for is not involved in the global market there could be an opportunity for expansion in the future, and therefore the buyer may still need to be aware of what is happening around the world in order to create a greater depth for their range, and maybe present the idea of introducing the brand to a global market because there is a niche that they have not tapped into that could be fruitful in terms of increasing profit, and brand awareness. The different methods that can be used include desk research and field research. For instance, during this task I have been placed in the buying role for Miss Francesca Couture, an independent retailer in
Liverpool. To curate a new range of womenswear, and also put in place a brand new line of childrenswear and menswear, it is important for me as the buyer to understand what trends are out there and by using a comparative shop to help me the buyer gain an insight into what our competitors are selling, the price they are selling it at, and who their customers are and if we as a brand can replicate their success. The directional shop is also a method that could be used, as it gives me the buyer an understanding of the global market as a whole; including top designers, and low cost brands, that could deliver inspiration to the new incoming range, and lines, and also help with the marketing aspect of creating a brand new range. Creating a blog to monitor the inspirations that I the buyer have come across is also useful, as it is like a virtual scrapbook, allowing me to build a portfolio of research articles about the current trends, what is happening in the fashion world, and future trend forecasting. Part of building a
blog could include conducting street style research, and finding out what people are wearing around the globe, and why. For instance for the task of being a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I looked at different cities around the world, with different styles and weather, that could affect what clothes I bring into the new ranges, an example could include looking at street style in Jamaica, and how that could be good to forecast trends in hot climates, but will not be useful when creating a range for a northern England city, or North American city like New York where it is bitterly cold. That is why it is important to monitor the trends on a global scale. The primary focus is about producing profits, and increasing the brand identity on a global scale. This can happen if the brand picks up on a trend early on, negotiates a good deal on fabric and manufacturing costs, and then has it in store before their competitors.
I conducted trend forecasting for Menswear, Childrenswear, and Womenswear. I found that the three key trends in Menswear were: Feminine fabrics, colours and patterns, Seventies and Eighties shapes in tailoring, bohemian patterns and colours throughout, and Athletic modern shapes in casual clothing. The three key trends that I found in Childrenswear were: Bold colours, and colour blocking, Warm materials such as fur and wool to coincide with winter weather and layering, Mini-Me styled clothing, with girls and boys wearing downsized versions of ready to wear trends; velvet suits, oversized casual wear in boys, and detailed dresses, and separates in girls. Three key trends in Womenswear were: Androgyny, with a lot of smoking suits, and boyish shapes in trousers and shirts, Seventies glamour; loose oversized maxi dresses, feminine waists and necklines with added details like pleating and ruffles, Muted colour pallet, with an emphasis on khaki, camel, and burnt sienna.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear.
A directional shop is what the buyer undertakes to get a thorough understanding of the market they are a part of, but do not necessarily focus on their competitors. Miss Francesca Couture is a high end brand, even though they design and manufacture their own clothes and have a bespoke service, they sell their products within the ranges of ÂŁ100 to ÂŁ400. Therefore, it would be helpful to look at designer brands with a higher price range, and a mass market brand with a lower price range.
The benefit of conducting a directional shop from a buyers perspective is that it enables the buyer to have an understanding of a designer brand, or a lower end brand, to see how they interpret the key trends, and if there is anything similar that can
be taken on board by the buyer when curating the next range for their brand, or if the current range is similar and if it is more successful because of quality of fabric or placement in the store and how it is put together with other products in the store. A directional shop is also used to find out what the current or next season trends will be by travelling around the world to find out if there is a distinct pattern of trends that appear in Europe and America, Asia and Australia etc. This gives the buyer insight into what trend is worth investing in.
The impacts can be both positive and negative; a positive aspect of a directional shop is the fact that it can aid a buyer of a brand, or independent retailer, to see what products you are both selling, and if there is a difference in quality, if it is close to the trends than your product is etc. A negative side effect is that it can be a lot of hard work, and there could be a loss of
focus depending on how far you go to complete the directional shop; for instance, there could be an enormous amount of trends globally, and it is like finding a needle in a haystack when finding out what will succeed over the other, when the fashion industry and the public are fickle consumers.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear.
Miss Francesca Couture £240
Miss Francesca Couture £260
Miss Francesca Couture £270
Tata Naka £855 100% Bemberg
Monique Lhuillier £2395 100% Silk
Miss Francesca Couture £260
Zimmerman £893.83 Main: 100% Nylon Contrast: 100% Silk Lining: 100% Silk Alberta Ferretti £2421 100% Silk/Lace Mix
Erdem £825 36% viscose, 28% wool, 18% cotton, 18% polyamide; lining: 100% silk
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear, Designer: Monique Lhuillier
£1395
£4995
£3995
£3495
£2595
£2595
SILK
SILK
SILK
SILK
SILK
SILK CHIFFON
Monique Lhuillier is a designer brand that specialises in gowns, and evening cocktail dresses. The quality is very high, with silk used consistently throughout the autumn/winter 2016 range. The shapes are feminine, taking into account the trend of bandeau dresses, seventies blouson sleeves silk dresses, sheer sleeves, and halter neck style dresses.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear, High Street: Topshop
£48 100% Polyester
£38 100% Polyester
£95 100% Leather
£38 8% Metallised Fibres 5% Elastane
£60 100% Polyester
£30 97% Polyester 3% Elastane
Topshop is fashion forward like Miss Francesca Couture. They have a global following for their innovative design and colour pallet which is inspired by the current season. The quality of the clothes varies dramatically depending on price and design. The cheaper pieces are usually on trend pieces that may not last longer than the current season, and therefore it is easier to reduce the price of this stock when it comes to the sales and not lose money. The more expensive pieces are made from a higher quality material, and could be seen as more versatile.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear.
Miss Francesca Couture took inspiration from the global catwalks. Monique Lhullier is a specialist in cocktail dresses and gowns from New York. They are made from a high quality material, and the shape is flattering and accessible to any woman. Compared to MFC’s one shoulder dress that I have compared with Monique Lhuillier’s is made from a lesser quality material, and the design is missing details that separate it from any other one shoulder dress available on the high street. The peplum jacket is a staple in every wardrobe and has become popular as of late to wear on a night out. Tata Naka showed a very similar peplum jacket in A/W 2015 but made from premium fabric; Bemberg, which is a Japanese cotton. Erdem showed a tweed jacket at London fashion week, as it is a formal jacket to wear for an evening event. The fact that something is considered old fashioned has become popular for an ordinary night out is testament to the power of trends.
Alberta Ferretti’s Italian lace and silk dress has inspired the current MFC range, it is of imported Italian materials, as opposed to MFC which is of a lower quality but has a high price tag. The design is also more interesting than MFC, and lacks detail. There is a theme throughout MFC that centres around European heritage; romantic lace, fluted sleeves, high collars etc. Lace is a trend that would never leave the fashion arena, not even for a season. It is a material that can be used throughout the two seasons, and thus reducing risk of cost and adds the ability to keep selling the product long after the current season.
The Zimmerman mint lace dress is of a similar high quality, and the price is high for a brand that is from Australia and not well know anywhere else in the main stream. MFC has designed something similar, but the colour pallet is not on trend, it is ambiguous. This is a good thing, as it prevents the products from becoming stale since mint may have been a key colour for autumn/winter 2015, but may not be on trend for the following autumn/winter season.
I think it is paramount that Miss Francesca Couture focuses on high quality materials, and on trend ranges, to entice customers, and bring in new customers with every new season. It is a clever business strategy to not rely heavily on trends and micro trends, as it prevents profit loss and stock loss due to the inability to sell the stock before the new season comes around. However, it is detrimental as the store becomes old quick, and with no new or visually exciting clothes coming out with every season could lead the shop to hit a steep decline in sales and public awareness of the brand.
As this is a new independent retailer, it is integral to its survival in this retail environment to become more focused on what it wants to be as a brand, and what it wants to sell to its customers.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Womenswear.
Miss Francesca Couture £120
Miss Francesca Couture £140
Miss Francesca Couture £180
Goldie £39 100% Polyester Erin Featherstone Nordstrom £129 100% Polyester Miss Francesca Couture £140
Topshop £36 100% Viscose
Miss Francesca Couture £160 Boohoo £12 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane
Jane Norman £65 61% Nylon, 36% Polyester, 3% Elastane, Lining 100% Polyester
It is important to conduct a directional shop at the lower end of the scale, to see how similar the products are with brands that sell their products for a cheaper price, with a cheaper quality material. The brands where I conducted the directional shop were Topshop, and Topshop concessional brand Goldie, Nordstrom (a North American brand), Boohoo, and Jane Norman which is a concession at House of Frasier.
I found out that there are similar trends that all of the brands use, because they are profitable and easy to replicate without causing any legal issues. However, it is common for brands to become embroiled in legal issues over copyright of designs; for example, Primark and Zara have both succumbed to legal issues due to their buying and design department signing off on direct copies of off the runway outfits, and this has caused them to lose millions in settlements. For a company like Miss Francesca Couture it is an unfathomable situation to get into since they are a small independent retailer. Therefore, they must take direct inspiration from the runway, but interpret the designs and ideas in their own unique way. Topshop is a fashion forward high street brand that is globally recognised. Throughout their womenswear ranges they include alternative trends, micro trends, and mass market trends, as their target customer varies from fashion conscious to the alternative fashionista. Sheer material is a popular trend amongst young people aged 18-25, and both Miss Francesca Couture and Topshop have caught onto this trend and both have a sheer top available to buy. Both products share the same quality material, but the price of Miss Francesca Couture’s sheer top is a lot higher. This could be due to the added detail of ruffles, which could attract more consumers. Boohoo is an online retailer from Manchester that ships its products to over 150 countries. It specialises in on-trend pieces, but with a lower quality, creating a quicker buying cycle so they can always stay on trend. The metallic gold/green material that they used for the skort product is directly similar to Miss Francesca Couture’s ruffled short piece. However, it does not have the same peplum detail like Miss Francesca Couture’s short has. The key trend of the pattern and colour is similar, but Miss Francesca Couture has extra detail that enables them to increase the price, even though the quality of the material may be marginally the same. Nordstrom is a North American department store that is similar to Selfridges in the UK. They have concessions within their store. Erin Featherstone’s bow neck black top is an evening wear piece that is of a higher quality material, and also a slightly higher price margin that the similar bow neck crop top that Miss Francesca Couture sells. The Nordstrom piece is more on trend, and more accessible to the average consumer of the high street department brand. The Miss Francesca Couture piece shares the same bow detail, which reflects the romantic Victorian trend that could be seen at Lanvin in Paris in the autumn/winter 2015 season. Goldie is a concessional brand based in Topshop, but also has their own online store. Goldie is a London based brand and ships internationally. They follow the key trends, and they are prevalent on social media. Their style is a rock edge, that is primarily based around the London street style, more so than the high fashion trends. The leather trousers are a trend for autumn/winter that could be seen at Saint Laurent in Paris fashion week. This is a popular trend as leather is a material that is used throughout autumn/winter ranges on the high street and high end. The Miss Francesca Couture leather trousers are of a higher quality, and look similar to a designer brand because it is more tailored. Jane Norman is a concession brand, it targets older women that want to be sexy and ‘sassy’ according to their mission statement. The dogtooth cape is a popular fabric and shape for the autumn/winter trend. Miss Francesca Couture has a product that is near enough the same, but the detail of leather shoulders, and a more structured shape reflects the quality of the brand against the likes of the high street brands.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Menswear: Designer Brands at Selfridges
£1515 Salvatore Ferragamo Wool Calfskin
£299 Ted Baker 70% wool 30% polyester lining 100% polyester 50% viscose 50 %acetate
£515 Sandro 100% wool lining 61% polyester 39% viscose
£995 McQueen 100% cotton lining 60% cotton 40% viscose
£2295 Brioni 85% wool 15% silk
£380 Hugo Boss 100% wool lining 50% acetate 50% viscose 51% viscose 49% acetate
I have used Selfridges to collate the information for my directional shop. All of the products I have chosen are similar to the concept I as the Miss Francesca Couture buyer would bring to the new line of menswear. As MFC does not have a current menswear line, I am basing this directional shop on what could be similar to that of the new menswear line.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Menswear: High Street: French Connection
£220 98% Cotton 2% Elastane
£60 100% cotton
£250 50% Wool 50% Polyester Lining: 55% Polyester 45% Viscose
£249 55% Polyester 45% Wool
£199 55% Polyester 45% Wool
£40 100% cotton
French Connection is a high street brand that describes their brand as fashion forward, with affordable prices. This range of suits is made of lower quality material compared to the designer directional shop, however, the style is similar and is on trend according to the catwalk designers. The single breast blazer is a key trend, and the material used by French Connection may not be the best quality but the colour is on trend for the autumn/winter season.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Boys and Girls: Designer: Gucci (3x Boys, 3x Girls)
£190 4-12 Years Gucci 100% Viscose
£185 4-12 Years Gucci 100% Cotton
£570 4-12 Years 54% polyester, 44% wool, 2% elastane
£600 4-12 Years 100% Silk
£450 4-12 Years
£335 4-12 Years
63% Acetate, 21% Polyamide, 16% Polyester 55% Viscose, 45% Metal Fiber 100% Cupro
55% silk, 45% polyester Details- 42% cotton, 41% viscose, 10% nylon, 7% elastane
Gucci is an Italian luxury designer brand, their childrenswear range reflects the theme of the ready to wear range that they show in Milan every season. The style is chic, with a fanciful design, especially in the boys range. The girls range is romantic, cute, and fashion forward. The quality is exceptionally high, and the price shows that. If the MFC children’s range is to be priced similar to the women’s and men’s then it must use a high quality material.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Boys and Girls: High Street: River Island (3x Boys, 3x Girls)
£40 3-12 Years River Island 3% Elastane, 97% Cotton
£20 3-12 Years River Island 26% Viscose, 65% Polyester, 9% Cotton
£20 3-12 Years River Island 65% Polyester, 35% Viscose
£25 3-12 Years River Island 100% Polyester
£20 3-12 Years 50% Nylon (polyamide), 50% Cotton
£15 3-12 Years 100% Polyester
River Island is a high street brand that follows and leads trends every season. The childrenswear is smart, and a mini me version of most of their women’s and men’s ranges. The price is good value, and the material is of a low quality, but it does have a good quality look.
Task 12: Directional Shop, Menswear Analysis, and Boys and Girls Analaysis.
Miss Francesca Couture does not have a menswear line as of yet. As the buyer for this brand I will be bringing in a menswear line that is influenced by numerous designers like Burberry, Tom Ford, and Hugo Boss; with the materials used, velvet, and leather, included in the range. The prices of the designer products range from £299 to £2295. The Miss Francesca Couture menswear range will range from £100 to £300 similar to the price range of the womenswear range. The customer profile for the brand is a man who is a business man, who travels, and goes out with his partner and friends on nights out of a weekend. He cares about what clothes he buys, and how he looks. The price range is consistent with the customer profile, as is the materials used which will be of a mid-quality. The directional shop has helped me as the buyer to consider what trends and ideas I can procure from the designer brands, and how they can fit into the menswear range.
French Connection is a well known high street brand that provides a similar style to that of Zara; French Connection follows the trends, and produces clothes of a good quality for affordable prices. Their price range is between £40 and £250. This directional shop has helped me the buyer conclude that it is achievable to manufacture clothes of a good quality for an affordable price, all the while using the trends of the current and next autumn/winter 2016 season.
Miss Francesca Couture does not have a childrenswear line as of yet. As the buyer for this brand I will be brining in a childrenswear line that is influenced by designers; for this directional shop I have looked at Gucci, since their Italian aesthetic fits the customer profile of the man and the woman at Miss Francesca Couture. It is fun, with tailoring, and patterns that are unique and exciting. The price range varies between £185 and £600, and the size is from 4-12 years for both boys and girls. This has helped me as the buyer understand what sizes need to be available to the consumer, and the price range. Gucci uses premium quality fabric, and this shows in their price range. However, it is unachievable for a independent brand like Miss Francesca Couture to have such a high price margin, as the consumers may be turned away and buy the same style of clothing at a designer boutique. Therefore, I as the buyer would price the childrenswear range between £50 and £200.
River Island childrenswear collection is well known for their ‘mini me’ trend that they stick to nearly every season. This aesthetic fits the customer profile for the parents, who want their children to look as stylish as they do. However the materials used are of a lower quality, and the price ranges from £15 to £40. This is a remarkable difference. As the buyer for MFC, I would have a price range of £50-£200 for the new childrenswear line, as this is more affordable and allows the brand to source mid to good quality materials.
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
POLITICAL Owning an independent business can be a great achievement. The owner of an independent business has a ‘clean slate’ when it comes to all aspects of the brand, they build it from the ground up, and take it in any direction they choose to. However, there are numerous issues that can arise depending on where the independent business is located. Miss Francesca Couture is a Liverpool based independent retailer, and has one unit in the Met Quarter shopping centre. The cost of a unit in the Met Quarter can vary considerably. Paying rent on a single unit or opting to buy a unit to place your independent retailer depends on how much the bank can lend you. Bank lending can come under the economic section of a PESTLE, but can also be included in the political as the Government could decide to increase taxes on independent businesses, or can force small businesses to pay their workers a higher salary, and even a pension scheme.
All of this can add up, and can inflict costs on the small business, especially when it has only recently opened for business. Small businesses might have to go through a lot of paperwork, or ‘red tape’, before even selling their first product. There is a lot of health and safety regulations that they must abide by, and for a small business that primarily focuses on couture pieces this can affect the price of garments, and the amount of hours the staff can work. An issue that could arise, that has arisen in other companies, is the use of illegal workers to subsidise the cost of renting a small business and keeping it afloat in dire circumstances like austerity and increases in VAT that the Government imposes on consumers and businesses. As the owner of a small company it is their responsibility to make sure that any staff they employee are being paid the minimum wage, and that the employees are of minimum age also. As of 2015. the business secretary Sajid Javid announced that the Conservative government will cut ‘red tape’ by at least £10 billion to target independent retailers. The European Union commission is also outlining their plans to cut EU red tape also in 2015. Over the next five years this could create more secure jobs in the independent business sector, and allow more new businesses to start (1) up in the UK. Sajid said ‘this will make Britain the best place in Europe to start and grow a business…’. The Government’s ability to reform regulations for independent businesses allows the freedom to grow for any business owner, in the case of Miss Francesca Couture, this could help their business continue to grow throughout the European Union and thus expand their market and increase their profit. This is beneficial to the Government, as with every successful business there is an increase in money gained from taxing those successful businesses, helping the wider community. References (1)Gov.uk, (2015). Sajid Javid outlines ambitious Enterprise Bill - Press releases - GOV.UK. [online] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/sajid-javid-outlines-ambitious-enterprise-bill [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
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Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
POLITICAL As of the summer of 2015, Government legislation that all employers of employees aged 22 and over must contribute to the government pension scheme. If the employee pays in £2.00 a month, the employer does the same. This is a great system for employees around the UK, but for smaller businesses this could affect them due to lack of funds, and decrease in revenue. Better Retailing in their article talks to TAS Accounting Services sales manager Neil Glover; ‘“I don’t think smaller businesses are aware of how this will affect their businesses, and they don’t know what it actually means to their day-to-day running. I don’t know of any retailers that have
implemented auto enrolment pensions. But proactive small businesses will start to do so soon,” he says…’ For an independent retailer like Miss Francesca Couture, it can affect their business in the following ways; turnover could be decreased due to paying money in each month for each employee who is over the age of 22. If they have a number of seamstresses or sales assistants above the age, it could add up to over £30 a year, and if their company continues to grow, the cost of paying into the pension scheme will also increase.
References GK, T. (2014). Simple advice and information for independent retailers ahead of pensions law changes - betterRetailing. [online] betterRetailing. Available at: http://www.betterretailing.com/simple-adviceretailers-ahead-changes-pensions-law/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
ECONOMICAL The financial crash of 2008 caused a lot of small companies to go bust; this was not down to a change in Government policy, but because of consumers unable to pay their mortgages, and having their homes repossessed. Spending has crawled upwards since 2008, but the affects of it can be seen today. Trading Economics says: ‘Consumer Spending in the United Kingdom increased to 291746 GBP Million in the third quarter of 2015 from 289515 GBP Million in the second quarter of 2015…’ This 2,231 Million increase proves that there is opportunities for small businesses like Miss Francesca Couture to capitalise on the healing global market.
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The pricing of their products varies; for a dress it can be between £135-£320, for tops it is between £80-£180, for trousers it is £160 for the one pair that they sell, for shorts it is between £80-£230, for jackets it is between £80-£240, for sets it is between £140-£230, and for the two capes they sell the price is £180. The pricing is important, as they could sell 4 dresses for £320 in a month and take £1280. This does not take into account the amount of money they could take from their bespoke pieces that could be over £500 depending on the workmanship it requires. The profit they acquire has to pay the staff, and any benefits they may pay them, the profit has to pay off the loans on the unit whether it is a rent or a mortgage, and then they will have to pay for decorating in-store; mannequins, rails, hangers, accessories that make the store look appealing to the customer. Miss Francesca Couture could have a loan, an overdraft, and may not have enough money to spend on marketing; this is a problem for smaller businesses as without advertising the product, it is difficult for the public to know your location, and what you sell. MFC also has a student discount policy, which more than likely helps the business become aware in the student community which is global in a city like Liverpool which has three Universities and numerous colleges within and around the city. 10% student discount may knock off £1.00 in a smaller low end retailer, but at MFC it could take off £23 for their highest prices dress. This is a positive as it will bring in more students, who may buy more than one item, but it can have a knock on effect on the profit the business ultimately loses out on, which could be up to £100 a month. MFC has an online store, which is an economically sound choice to make as they have not got the funds to advertise their brand. The difference in exchange rates can increase or decrease their profits, depending on the countries that they ship to. VAT is currently at 20%, and this can affect the pricing in the store, but if it were to ever be decreased to promote the growth of the UK economy it would be a good deal for businesses like MFC. References (1)Tradingeconomics.com, (2016). United Kingdom Consumer Spending | 1955-2016 | Data | Chart | Calendar. [online] Available at: http://www.tradingeconomics.com/united-kingdom/consumer-spending [Accessed 15 Jan. 2016].
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Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
ECONOMICAL
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It is being reported at the beginning of 2016, that there is a continuing murmuring that there will be another recession
soon. One of the issues that ‘Real Money’ talk about in their article ‘5 reason why recession fears are building’ is the fact that retail is not ‘doing well’. They write, ‘…many retailers are announcing negative sales growths for the holiday season, despite accelerating job gains…’ If Miss Francesca Couture was to expand now, and the recession strikes again, it could cause them to go into administration due to paying for extra staff, and unit space, but then having no customers shopping due to the austerity. Another point to add is the fact that the Chinese economy is flailing at the top of 2016, as they continue to borrow money to prop up their own economy, whilst the US is borrowing money from China to prop up the U.S economy. If China were to collapse in on itself during the next recession, it could cease manufacturing companies, reduce export of goods to Europe, and therefore cause the retail business to go into a downward spiral. China’s growth in 2015 was 6.9% compared to 2014 where it grew 7.3%. (1) Retail depends heavily on logistics, therefore the price of oil continues to fall, it could help in the negotiations of importing and exporting goods; for example, because it is cheaper, it can reduce the cost of shipping companies, and open up the market to smaller businesses like Miss Francesca Couture who might have to import materials, and export goods to the global market if they choose to expand. Moreover, the deflation of oil prices will give consumers more money to spend; the Market Realist website has an article, and it reads ‘Lower gasoline prices could mean that consumers will have more disposable income to spend on consumer discretionary (XLY) products and services like apparel, electronics, hotels, and automobiles. This will benefit department stores including Macy’s (M), Nordstrom (JWN), Kohl’s Corporation (KSS), JCPenney (JCP), and others selling consumer discretionary products…’ (2) So in the case of another recession, it could affect the footfall into the store, but if there is a successful outlet for the business i.e a website, then there is a security for the business if it continues to advertise its services online. They may lose their flagship store in the MET Quarter, but Miss Francesca Couture could continue to trade online and fight the recession.
References (1)Real Money, (2016). 5 Reasons Why Recession Fears Are Building. [online] Available at: http://realmoney.thestreet.com/articles/01/19/2016/5-reasons-why-recession-fears-are-building [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
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ECONOMICAL The Guardian’s article titled ‘Retailers told to prepare for lower spending throughout 2016’. Think Tank reports that consumers are more likely to spend money on nights out, and doing up their homes in the new year. ‘…Retail sales growth will slip back to around 1.7% in 2016 from about 1.8% this year, according to the KPMG/Ipsos
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retail thinktank, despite the fact that most consumers have more money in their pockets. But people are now
looking to spend their money on restaurants, pubs and cinemas as well as on trips to the high street…’ Miss Francesca Couture could suffer as a small business from this economic down turn in the new year, where businesses are at their most vulnerable, across the board, with intense pressure to stay afloat after the Christmas period where people spend, now is the time where people are saving and looking elsewhere to invest their money. Unlike bigger businesses, smaller businesses like Miss Francesca Couture cannot simply induce a sale in January as they do not have the volume of products to sell at a low price. They have to keep their prices the same, and suffer the brunt of the January sales competition. ‘…With such a tough environment, the thinktank said it would be difficult for retailers to put up prices to offset cost increases resulting from the implementation of the “national living wage”, which comes into force in April, as well as rises in business rates – a combination Tesco boss Dave Lewis has described as a “lethal cocktail.”’ (1) Smaller businesses do not have to worry about increasing their employee salaries to match the living wage, and this gives them an opportunity to undercut the bigger retailers who may have to increase their minimum wage and this could affect the amount of money they invest in new products for the new season, and cause them to renegotiate manufacturing prices to save money. In order to bring in more customers Miss Francesca Couture will have to focus their efforts on social media, and continue to push their product reviews on Instagram. References (1) Butler, S. (2015). Retailers told to prepare for lower spending throughout 2016. [online] the Guardian. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/business/2015/dec/30/retailers-told-to-prepare-for-lower-spending-throughout-2016 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
SOCIAL Miss Francesca Couture is based in Liverpool city centre. Liverpool is a northern city that has a population of 1,513,306 million overall, but in the city it has a population of 466,415 people. The majority of people in live in Liverpool are on low incomes, and a minority are part of social housing. This is a predominately working class city, and therefore it may not seem feasible for a company to move into Liverpool as they could assume that there is not enough money in the city. However, small businesses have grown a lot as of late and to some people there seems to be a beginning of economic (2) boom in the city, with an article by the Liverpool Echo stating in 2014 that Liverpool is one of the fastest growing regional economies. Miss Francesca Couture has a website, and this show there is room for global expansion as the internet makes it easily accessible for consumers around the globe to find out about small businesses, and thus create a greater profit than what they could have made had they not developed an online website. Boutique stores like Cricket, and more well known branded stores like Flannels, and Harvey Nichols, have made it clear that Liverpool is the city that is craving for designer goods, high quality products, and are willing to pay a little bit extra than everyone else to look good. In the 2011 national census it showed that the population of Liverpool was young, with 157,900 people under the age of 25 according to the Liverpool council website. (1) This makes up 30.7% of the total population of Liverpool. This is a great fact to know for a small retail business, as it proves that there is a market for the clothes that are being sold. For example, the Miss Francesca Couture range is it is now attracts the young people due to its glamourous style, and unique designs that can be tailored to each customer. The age group of 18-25 are more than likely working, living at home, and have disposable income. If Miss Francesca Couture was to expand via the internet on a global scale, it is more than likely that this could be a successful business strategy, as it has been proven to be successful for other small businesses like House of Celeb Boutique, and Cricket. The fact that Miss Francesca Couture specialises in bespoke dressmaking and tailoring also pushes their USP above their competitors around the world, as they provide a service that not many boutiques do. This can increase their mark ups, and give them an edge over the other retailers in the global market. If the company is sourcing their materials from another country, there will be ethical issues that could be involved; the average consumer is more aware of the issues surrounding ethical manufacturing and how it affects the world on a global scale. Any retailer, regardless how big or small, must be aware of the consequences of using toxic materials in overseas manufacturing, and the affect that this could have on the planet. References (1)Liverpool.gov.uk, (2016). Census background - Liverpool City Council. [online] Available at: http://liverpool.gov.uk/council/key-statistics-and-data/census/census-background/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
References (2)Hodgson, N. (2014). Liverpool regional economy among best in England. [online] liverpoolecho. Available at: http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/news/business/liverpool-city-region-local-enterprise-6994715 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
SOCIAL
As a small business, Miss Francesca Couture has to source its own materials, and negotiate its own price strategies. They do not have experts who can find the best fabric mills, and manufacturers that are ethical and well respected. It all costs money, and therefore as a smaller business it is impossible to follow the retailers social contract; ethically sourced goods, good quality, and affordable prices. There are two avenues to go down; cheap materials, cheap production, and ultimately a poor quality product that could be bought in high volume and sold in high volume. Or, pay for expensive materials, charge a higher price, and market the product to a small group of customers on the high end retail scale. (1) Miss Francesca Couture’s prices are high, and I can only assume that they must buy high quality materials and manufacture them in house, or outsource it to a local manufacturer as the quantity they have is small. However, if they were to expand, and look at using a mid to low quality material for a greater volume then Miss Francesca Couture would have to visit the factories in the country that is creating the products; India, China, Indonesia, etc. This is costly, and they could spend up to a week there every three months in order to monitor the progress of the supply chain, and that the ethics of their retail company is being followed. A problem that could occur with a smaller brand is being over charged. This is why it is important to liaise with a manufacturer that can deliver samples so the quality of the materials can be tested by the design team in house, and understand the exact quantities that is needed instead of buying more than is necessary. With the minimum wage rising year on year, and more calls for the living wage to be introduced throughout the private sector, a small business owner could be fearing for their companies longevity. It is important for a business to grow in order to be successful, therefore more staff must be hired, and with the minimum wage for 21 years and older currently standing at £6.70 it could add extra expenses onto the business. The downside of this is that more and more smaller businesses could be looking at younger teenagers to hire in their store as the minimum wage for a (2)This could affect the customer service in the store, which could 16 year old is currently is £3.72. prevent customers from wanting to shop their if they have had a bad experience. Miss Francesca Couture does not seem to have great depth in their sales assistant work force, as they only have one store, and it is normally manned by the owner of the business. This is a good sign, as it shows there is a care and attention to the company from the owner, and they want to build a rapport with the customers and clients.
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References Economicshelp.org, (2013). Minimum Wage for 16-18 Year olds | Economics Help. [online] Available at: http://www.economicshelp.org/blog/430/labour-markets/minimum-wage-for-16-18-year-olds/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. StartUp FASHION, (2015). Fabric Sourcing Tips for Emerging Designers. [online] Available at: http://startupfashion.com/fabric-sourcing-tips-for-emerging-designers [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
TECHNOLOGY Miss Francesca Couture currently has a website, but it is not as good as it could be and is difficult to navigate. For the company to expand its customer network and its appeal as a brand it needs to be up to date with technology, and social media. Their website makes it easy to buy their products, but there is nothing new on the website, and
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it isn’t updated as frequently as other retailers. They have a blog that has not been updated since 2013, and they do not promote their new products online; their twitter has not been
updated since December 15th 2015, therefore they could have lost out on gaining new customers and increasing their profits over the most financially rewarding time of the year for retail enterprises. Their Instagram account however is the most up to date, with up to five posts a week that showcase happy customers in their dresses, and new products on the shop floor. The rate of obsolescence is slow, as it is still a product and service that the public use on a
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regular basis. Miss Francesca Couture should put more effort in their website and their promotional activities outside the store as well as online. There is a lot of profit to be made, there needs to be a direction on behalf of the marketing side of the business. Due to the fact that Miss Francesca Couture is a limited company, with one owner, and at least
two sales assistants, then it is difficult to advertise their products online and on social media at the same rate as their competitors; for example, they do not have a photographer and stylist on pay roll to continually put up new products.
References (1) Instagram.com, (2016). ☎️CALL 01512361468 (@francescacouture) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/francescacouture/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. (2)Miss Francesca Couture, (2013). Blog - Miss Francesca Couture. [online] Available at: http://www.missfrancescacouture.co.uk/blog/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. (3)Twitter.com, (2016). Francesca Kearns (@missfcouture) | Twitter. [online] Available at: https://twitter.com/missfcouture [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
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Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
TECHNOLOGY According to Forbes online article ‘10 Technology Trends That Will Revolutionise Retail’, they speak about how in 2014; ‘…Retail sales rose 2.7 percent in November and December, to $265.9 billion, but actual store visits declined 14.6 percent, according to Associated Press. The data suggests that consumers are researching items online before going into stores to buy. One consumer described his approach as “precision shopping.”’(1) This is important for a small business to grasp, as having a limited website can put off customers from visiting the store, especially when the store is small and has limited stock to show to casual customers who pop in to have a look at what the brand is about, which can be seen with Miss Francesca Couture. According to Forbes, 20% of purchases during the Christmas period in 2014 occurred on a mobile device. Miss Francesca Couture has a website that has the same products for sale all season round, this is a problem for new customers who may not want to buy a bespoke dress, but just buy one ‘off the rack’. They are neglecting a key target market. MFC is already on social media, and showcases their happy customers on their Instagram page, which adds to the customer experience and brings in customers who are looking for a company they can trust with the idea that is in their head. The use of their Instagram page as a review page is a great marketing strategy as it alerts new customers to their capabilities as a retailer. What is letting the brand down is their lack of trend forecasting. They have the ability to create off the runway pieces for half the price, but do not seem to be motivated in doing so. More and more consumers have the ability to watch a runway show live, and read the latest article of trends for the next season, but
MFC does not seem to do the same with their business. The expansion in technology has advanced the stretch that the small business retailer has, and this gives them equal opportunity to sell their products worldwide like the big businesses have already been doing since the early 2000’s. References Forbes, (2016). OracleVoice: 10 Technology Trends That Will Revolutionize Retail. [online] Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/oracle/2014/01/13/10-technology-trends-that-will-revolutionizeretail/#2715e4857a0b4969fda063d8 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
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Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
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LEGAL
Miss Francesca Couture as an independent business, a limited company. They could have business partners that produce the money to keep the business afloat, and therefore if there is any issues that arise that could affect the company such as breakdown in communication, or break up of ownership, it could be detrimental to the business and could cause it to dissolve and cease to exist. Each year the owner must get their accounts in order, and send an annual return to ‘companies house’ according to the government website. Company house is where you go to, to set up your own company. You must have a company name, an address, at least one director, at least one shareholder, the agreement of all initial shareholders to create the company; this is known as a ‘memorandum of association’, details of the company’s shares and the rights attached to them known as a ‘statement of capital’. There must also be written rules as to how the
company is run, known as ‘articles of association’. The company must also register for Corporation Tax within three months of starting the business. The company must also register for VAT is the expected earning are more than £82,000 a year. The director must also pay tax and national insurance. (1) For a small business like Miss Francesca Couture it could take away from their overall turnover, and therefore reduce the growth of the company on a year on year basis. There is so much paperwork, it could be trouble than its worth to continue to run a small business. If the company is sourcing materials from another country, they must understand any legal issues that may arise if they do not pay the workers a minimum wage, or hire child labourers. The statutory rights of the customer must not change if the business is small; the company must respect the rights of the customer regarding returns and exchanges, and issues that may arise due to faults in the products. They must clearly state the period the customer has to bring an item back. Miss Francesca Couture is a bespoke dressmaker and tailor, as well as manufacturing dresses and products in large volumes to sell to the mass market. It is important that a company of this size does not incur copyright fraud, and therefore be taken on by a bigger company over a charge of copyright, as this could swallow the company whole due to legal fees or fines that may occur from copying a bigger brands designs. British Independent Retailer Association, is a trade association that helps independent retailers in regards to specialist representation in the case of disputes that could cost the smaller business a lot of revenue, and also they help the smaller retailer connect with other retailers of various sizes to help the business grow. They have branch meetings across the UK, and their website is informative about Employment law if a staff member is sick, and there is not enough staff due to the small size of the business They also help the smaller business compete with
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bigger retailers, and how they can attract more customers. This company would be helpful for Miss Francesca Couture, as they will guide them as to how to expand, cope with dry periods, and staff structure. They could also help if there is a legal issue that they are struggling with; such as a dispute between staff and management, or copyright infringement.
References (1)Gov.uk, (2016). Choose a legal structure for your business - GOV.UK. [online] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/business-legal-structures/limited-company [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. (2)Association, B. (2016). bira blogs. [online] Bira.co.uk. Available at: http://bira.co.uk/blog [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
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Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture
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E N V I RO N M E N TA L The environment can affect smaller businesses like Miss Francesca Couture, for example in October 2015 a new law came into affect that caused some businesses to charge 5p for a plastic bag, to protect the environment and to contribute more to charity. However, smaller businesses were exempt from including this charge in their businesses, in case this caused them to lose out on customers. Although according to an article written in The Independent, more smaller businesses are charging the 5p for a bag because they believe it ‘increases the bond with the customer’ as it is going towards a good cause, and not the business itself, and it will lower the cost of them purchasing bags as many customers may be deterred from buying a plastic bags; reducing wastage.(1) Smaller businesses like Miss Francesca Couture who have a website that can be viewed around the world could ultimately struggle with the supply chain, and logistics of delivering goods across the country and the world. This could be countered by partnering with a logistics company, for example UPS Solutions, who have a web page dedicated to small business logistics. It is important for the independent retailer to understand the carbon footprint they produce by sending products around the world, and the UK, as it can affect the environment in a big way; small businesses are not exempt from the criticism that bigger retailers are inundated with on a monthly basis by consumer watchdogs and journalists. There are a lot of businesses who specialise in negotiating on behalf of the independent retailer to get the best price for shipping and haulage rates. An example of this is AIS, who charge a membership fee for smaller companies. Miss Francesca Couture could join this company and not have to pay excess charges on import and export shipping. (2) As a member of the European Union, Miss Francesca Couture must follow the regulations they set for protecting the environment as a business, for example on the European Union website, they outline the need for all businesses in the EU to have CSR, also known as Corporate Social Responsibility. According to their website, ‘The European Commission believes that CSR is important for the sustainability, competitiveness, and innovation of EU enterprises and the EU economy. It brings benefits for risk management, cost savings, access to capital, customer relationships, and human resource management…’ On their website, Miss Francesca Couture have nothing to show that they show CSR, and this could be damaging to the company in the future if they do decide to expand their business and their brand identity becomes more well know globally. Even as an independent retailer they need to show that they are abiding by the EU laws and regulations, and put their consumer first by thinking about the ethical factors surrounding sourcing of materials, and shipping of materials and products to their store and their customers. The carbon footprint is becoming a huge talking point in the retail world, and neglecting to talk about that in their business strategy is ultimately a misstep as talking about the environment could help promote their brand across different platforms on the internet; blogs, and newspaper articles. (3) To cut costs, Miss Francesca Couture could outsource their manufacturing if they become a bigger company, to India. If this occurs, there needs to be an expansion in their organisational structure to allow for buyers who could travel to the factories that manufacture the products to make sure the product is being produced with care and attention regarding non-toxic materials and bi-products that could affect the community. It is important as an independent retailer to not succumb to illegal methods to produce products at a quicker rate, and a cheaper price etc.
(2) (3)
References Aistores.co.uk, (2016). Logistics. [online] Available at: http://www.aistores.co.uk/services/logistics [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. Bawden, T. (2015). Small shops to charge 5p for plastic bags despite exemption. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/green-living/small-shops-to-charge-5p-for-plastic-bagsdespite-being-exempt-from-new-rules-making-the-fee-10508698.html [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. Ec.europa.eu, (2016). Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) - European Commission. [online] Available at: http://ec.europa.eu/growth/industry/corporate-social-responsibility/index_en.htm [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture Analysis The external factors that affect an independent retailer are politics, the economy, social issues, technology advancements, legal factors that may arise, and how the independent retailer affects the environment. Government policy can affect the owner of an independent business, especially one that is small and has only one store to its name like Miss Francesca Couture. I have found that the main external threat to this business is the increase in workers rights, and how the Government is forcing some businesses to provide a pension scheme to employees who earn at least ÂŁ9,400 a year(betterretailing.com/September 2014)(1). This can affect Miss Francesca Couture because this could prevent them from expanding to more stores, because they do not have the capital to invest in more employees. Although this is good news for employees around the UK, it is detrimental to the independent business owner.
Currently the economy is on the edge of a cliff, and there is almost a certainty amongst business insiders that there could be a recession coming in the very near future. This is bad news for big businesses, as this can cause employees to be laid off as well as stores to close, and in the past some businesses have gone into administration. For small independent retailers, who have a minimal staff structure this can mean that they could lose the majority of their employees due to lack of funds to pay them, because consumers are not spending any money due to their jobs disappearing. It can become a viscous cycle. An external factor is the cost of oil deflating throughout 2015, which could reduce the cost of imported materials and exported finished products around the world, also the lowering of oil costs affect the cost at the pump; with consumers paying less for fuel, and having more money to spend on other things such as clothes and accessories. In regards to demographics in a city like Liverpool, this affects the working class community and can help keep small businesses afloat.
One of the main external social factors that could affect Miss Francesca Couture is the fact that they do not have a dedicated buying role who can travel far and wide to see if their products are being produced in an ethical way. 2015 was the year where ethical manufacturing became important to big businesses (Startups.co.uk/January 2015)(2) , and consumers are becoming wise to the affect that mass production of clothes has on poor communities in India, Indonesia, and China etc. As a small business it could be a positive to focus on the ethical side of retail, as it could be a niche in the market and increase customer trust and brand awareness around the world. An internal factor is the minimum wage preventing small businesses from hiring more experience employees; they might have to hire younger people who have no experience and do not show the care and attention to customer service as older more experienced employees could. It is important for a smaller business to build a rapport with their customers, and it is integral for those customers to be loyal to the company. It could be beneficial to introduce an internship in the business for sixteen year olds who do not want to go to college, and can learn on the job training.
Technology is becoming wider spread and more advanced, and this is advantageous for smaller businesses as every business regardless of size has an equal playing field with social media; they have the same account, the
same layout, and it is simple to use for both consumer and the business owner. Miss Francesca Couture has a blog they do not use on their website, which could affect sales as customers may not know if they are still in business or if it is a trustworthy company to spend in. However, they are more active on Instagram, one of the brightest social media platforms of the past three years that has become a staple application for consumers around the world. Miss Francesca Couture frequently post images of their dresses on happy clients, and it is a place where the happy clients can give a review of the service they received, whilst in turn promote the company. I have found this to be a successful part of their business strategy as it is cost effective, and effective in increasing brand awareness and ultimately increasing profit. Forbes’s article (Forbes.com/January 2014)(3) talks about how 20% of consumers buy items on their mobile phone, making it more important than ever to have an updated website, especially if you are a start up company. Unfortunately Miss Francesca Couture does not have an updated website, and this is harmful in their longevity as a business and their current growth as a small business. There needs to be an increase in traffic to their website, and this can only occur if there are more
products for consumers to buy, and a wider target market is reached. This is why as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I would bring in a menswear and childrenswear line. (1) GK, T. (2014). Simple advice and information for independent retailers ahead of pensions law changes - betterRetailing. [online] betterRetailing. Available at: http://www.betterretailing.com/simple-advice-retailers-ahead-changes-pensions-law/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
(3) Forbes, (2016). OracleVoice: 10 Technology Trends That Will Revolutionize Retail. [online] Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/oracle/2014/01/13/10-technology-trends-that-will-revolutionize-retail/#2715e4857a0b4969fda063d8 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. (2) Startups.co.uk, (2016). Business ideas for 2015: Ethical fashion brand - Startups.co.uk: Starting a business advice and business ideas. [online] Available at: http://startups.co.uk/business-ideas-for-2015-ethical-fashion-brand/ [Accessed 21 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: PESTLE on Miss Francesca Couture Analysis
Smaller and larger businesses can be the David and Goliath of the business world if there is a copyright issue that arises. It is so easy for a small company to be swallowed up if they are accused of the slightest copyright infringement in a design; it is important that a small business has support in case this happens. The British Independent Retailers Association provides this support to smaller businesses, as well as other support for other areas. It is important for a company like Miss Francesca Couture to associate themselves with this company, as it could help them in promoting their brand, expanding their brand, and overcoming adversity.
Miss Francesca Couture does not currently state on their website what materials are used in the manufacturing process of their products. This can be negative for the business, as it can affect the customer and their decision as to whether they buy the product for the price it is being sold at. For example, one of the dresses on sale currently is priced at ÂŁ280, but there is no detail as to the quality of the material. It could be made from polyester, or viscose, both can be manufactured
cheap in factories abroad, and that in turn could have illegalities such as child labourers, de-regulated working hours etc. This has to change, in order to give the company some repute within the retail business if it does grow in size and worth.
As of October 2015(The Independent./September 2015), the Government brought in legislation that forced businesses to charge 5p for a plastic bag, in the retail sector this affected the majority of businesses. However, an article in The Independent spoke about how small businesses who do not have to charge 5p for a plastic bag have been doing so to gain customer loyalty and rapport for being involves in the scheme which donates the money to charities around the UK. This is also beneficial to the company, as it prevents them wasting plastic bags, and also reduces the cost of producing them which to a small business could take a chunk out of their monthly revenue. (1)
AIS is an international shipping company that liaises with small business owners to give them the best price when shipping products around the world, this is important for small business owners as the cost of packaging, shipping, and monitoring of a delivery can be costly. Another way of decreasing their carbon footprint is if they allow their brand to be sold on eBay, or ASOS, where they package and deliver their items under their ethical and environmental guidelines that a small business like Miss Francesca Couture could not possibly compete with at their current size.
Even though Miss Francesca Couture is a small business, it is still a business within the European Union and must abide by EU regulations. For example, Miss Francesca Couture has a ‘Corporate Social Responsibility’ i.e they must adhere to a plan that they agree to where they understand that they must be aware of their affect on the environment and to avoid ignorance when it comes to sourcing of materials, packaging, and production of the final product. Having these regulations in place can help small businesses become more environmentally aware, and socially aware, of their carbon footprint and they can put in place methods to reduce their carbon footprint, as well as find cost effective ways to do that.
To conclude this critical analysis, I have discovered that independent retailers may not have the freedom, or capital, to be as socially and environmentally aware as their big business competitors. However, they can find a niche in the market by adhering to the same standards that their competitors set in regards to ethical manufacturing, and helping out their community with internships and on the job training that could be hard to find with bigger retailers. Miss Francesca can provide one-to-one customer service that can be hard to find with other brands like Zara and Monsoon, and unlike those brands Miss Francesca Couture can promote their business however they see fit without head office intervention. Miss Francesca needs to be more up to date with technology, as this is preventing them from increasing their customer flow and profits. As the buyer for the new range I would make it a priority to up date their website layout, and design, and include more details of materials and add new web pages with information on the buying cycle within the store, as through this PESTLE I have discovered that they are lacking in technology advancements, and environmental responsibility.
(1)Bawden, T. (2015). Small shops to charge 5p for plastic bags despite exemption. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/greenliving/small-shops-to-charge-5p-for-plastic-bags-despite-being-exempt-from-new-rules-making-the-fee-10508698.html [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
Task 13: SWOT on Miss Francesca Couture
STRENGTHS Internal
Internal • • •
Bespoke dressmaking/tailoring service. One-to-one customer service. Good location in Liverpool city centre.
External •
WEAKNESSES • • •
Location; MET Quarter is a high end shopping centre, the right customer comes into the MFC store.
Does not update website regularly Expensive. Material information not disclosed on website, making it harder for ethically aware consumers to decide what to buy. Has no menswear or childrenswear ready to wear lines.
External • No brand identity on a global scale. • Competitors release products and ranges regularly, according to the seasonal trends.
OPPORTUNITIES Internal • • •
Create a menswear and childrenswear line, increases brand awareness. Expand their website, update it regularly and increase customer flow. Expand the business to another UK city, a bigger unit in Liverpool one that could sell ready to wear items only.
External •
•
Investment from a larger company; ASOS could include the brand on their website. Fashion magazines could include outfits, and review the product.
T H R EATS Internal • • •
•
Bigger businesses. Competition in the MET Quarter. Recession. Online websites undercutting their prices, cheaper products, similar designs. Invisibility on a global scale; lack of marketing and advertising.
External • •
Competitors growing at an accelerated rate. Competition can hold sales, and discount days, whereas Miss Francesca Couture cannot due to lack of stock.
Task 13: SWOT on Miss Francesca Couture Analysis
Miss Francesca Couture is an independent retailer in Liverpool, they have an active Instagram account where they post pictures of happy clients, with reviews of the clothing, as well as descriptions of the clothes that they sell. The strengths of this brand include the bespoke dressmaking and tailoring service that they provide to anyone who wants it. This is unusual in a boutique store, as they provide a service that for some people in Liverpool seems cut off to them due to their lack of disposable income etc. However, Miss Francesca Couture sells her clothes at a high end price, that competes with companies like Monsoon and Coast, but can alter the dresses there and then saving time and money for the
customer. As this store is small, and is the only store for the brand, they can provide a one-to-one service to the customer, giving them their full attention, and work hard to make a sale. In other stores it is hard to find a sales assistant who is experienced and has knowledge of the brand, whereas in Miss Francesca Couture the owner is on the shop floor, willing to talk to you about what you require. The location of Miss Francesca Couture is in a reputable designer shopping centre, that is adjacent to Cricket, and the Cavern Walks where most of the designer boutiques are in Liverpool. Unlike Liverpool One, MET Quarter hosts designers like All Saints, and Armani, and therefore just having a unit amongst those designers increase the reputation of the Miss Francesca Couture brand, as they are place in an enviable location. They can attract their key demographic of working class women with money to spend, as well as their target age group of 20-35 year olds.
Weaknesses that can be found internally include the lack of staff in the business, making it harder for them to update their website on a regular basis; missing out on key trends for the season, and missing out on including new products on their
website for customers to preview before they go into the store. The prices on the website are high, but the product information does not disclose what materials are used; this can cause mistrust with the customer, as they do not know what they are paying for, and what the quality of the product truly is. A customer could ask what the material is, but it is best for Miss Francesca Couture to write on their website what material the products are made from, and where it is made, since if it is made in store or in England, it could add more to their USP and ultimately help their brand identity. Miss Francesca Couture is not known worldwide like its main competitor House of Celeb Boutique. This external weakness is harming the brand in the long run, as total invisibility could cause the brand to become stagnant and it could never truly realise its full potential.
One of the major weaknesses is the fact they do not have a menswear or a childrenswear line. If they did, they could open up their brand to a wider consumer, and bring in a new target market of mum’s and dad’s. This could increase their profits,
and help them expand globally, and online, with a greater depth of product at hand for the consumer to peruse. Creating a menswear and childrenswear line is one of their biggest opportunities externally, as it can increase traffic to the website, and customer footfall. If they could increase their profit margin, they could expand to another store in Liverpool One where they can focus solely on the commercial ready to wear lines, keeping the MET Quarter store for bespoke dressmaking and tailoring.
There are opportunities for the business to expand to Manchester, as Manchester has a similar demographic and target market to Liverpool. Increasing the brand within the UK, could also create more opportunities to advertise with celebrities, for example soap actresses and actors, and increase the brand visibility in magazines, and on the internet. Partnering with a globally successful company that sells brand like ASOS will most likely increase profits and knowledge of the brand throughout
the globe. It will make it easier to ship items to other countries, as ASOS would be the one footing the bill. It will also be a great testimonial for the brand, knowing they have affiliated themselves with a reputable retailer.
The threats to the business are strong; there are more well known retailers in the MET Quarter, and Miss Francesca Couture is squirreled away on the upper floor in the corner, so it is hard to find if you were visiting the MET Quarter for the first time, and you could be swayed by other stores in the building that are more well known. However a way to counter that threat is the fact that Miss Francesca Couture has a niche in the market because they offer bespoke dresses and unique designs that are different to their competitors. Online websites who sell similar clothes for a cheaper price are also a threat, as they can undercut Miss Francesca Couture and since they are a small business there is nothing they could do to stop the bigger stores from copying their designs. Legal fees would take a chunk out of their income, and be detrimental to the brand survival. Competitors can also hold sales, and discount days, which Miss Francesca Couture cannot do because they do not have the depth in stock to exercise a huge cut in RRP without losing a lot of future profit, especially when they do not have the continuous replenishment of stock and new products.
Task 13: Compare Independent and Flagship Brands.
Flagship brands that are competitors to Miss Francesca Couture include House of Celeb Boutique, which sells similar designs but has a greater depth in stock.
I have chosen this brand in particular because it shares the same beginnings as Miss Francesca Couture. House of Celeb Boutique started in a bedroom in 2010, and now they sell their clothes worldwide and their designs can be seen on A List celebrities like the Kardashians and Jennifer Lopez. This company on its website states its postal address as Hong Kong. There could be a number of reasons why they have their offices there; it is cheaper to outsource to another country as there are less regulations in regards to employee rights and quality of the product, also it can cost less if the company is registered in another country where taxes could be less or non-existent. With Miss Francesca Couture it is a business that is registered in the UK as a limited company, and therefore pays tax and VAT every year. House of Celeb Boutique has grown fast in a short amount of time, and this business strategy could be the reason why, and how they have been able to cope with high demand of products which have been advertised in magazines and by celebrities. They can produce a mixed quality product, for half the price that it could cost Miss Francesca Couture, because of the location of their offices and closeness to the manufacturers. The benefits of cost effective methods within the buying cycle means that House of Celeb Boutique can open stores in cities that are renowned for their celebrity status; like London, Dubai, and Las Vegas. All of which could cost them a substantial amount of money to rent and pay their employees according to the state regulations. The locations they have chosen are in cities that women would want to look amazing on a night out or for an event; if Miss Francesca Couture was able to expand their store to London or Manchester, they could easily compete on a global scale due to the increase in revenue and brand awareness. Due to their closeness to their factories, House of Celeb Boutique can monitor the production of clothing and make quick changes or developments with their designs to suit the trends that are occurring globally. Miss Francesca Couture cannot do that, as they have less money and flexibility to travel to their manufacturers to see if their product is correct, or needs changing. These delays are affecting their business. Moreover, House of Celeb Boutique sends dresses and clothing pieces to celebrities for free, for free promotion. It is an old trick that is affective in gaining interest from the public, and a desire for their product. However, this could only be successful if the stock allocation was correct. Due to the fact their clothes are produced close to their head offices, they are more able to order the correct amount of stock in a shorter amount of time compared to Miss Francesca Couture.
Task 14: Sourcing Decisions As A Buyer Political factors that could affect sourcing decisions include change in Government; i.e if it is in an unstable country there could be a chance that a military coup could occur and this could cause imports and exports of trade to be blocked, causing disruption to the buying cycle, and therefore a delay in the product arriving in stores at the estimated time. In case this happens, the buyer could make an emergency order through another manufacturer but this could incur a premium price. Another way to overcome this political issue is to extend a sale period on old season clothing, and wait until Government intervention from the UK or USA occurs. Certain countries could have blocks on the export of precious materials, especially animal fur and exotic snake skins. Moreover, high street buyers could find that in some countries there could be a conservation effort to prevent the exporting and use of cotton and silk, as these natural materials could become extinct. If for any reason the country where you are sourcing the materials and labour from have low taxes that suddenly increase, it could affect the overall profit from that range. Therefore, a more suitable country must be found to produce and manufacture the product. This could cause a lot of issues in regards to time management, and missing key dates for the product to reach the stores around the world. With a small business like Miss Francesca Couture, it could impede heavily on the production line if there was to be a governmental issue like increase in taxes, or even a public protest that could affect the employees at the factory where the products are made. Economical factors that could affect sourcing decision include a global financial crisis, similar to that in 2008, which forced a number of developed and developing countries to go into austerity. This reduces productivity, as most private manufacturers that could have been used to produce the products lay off their workers, and reduce their productivity due to the crisis. As a buyer in this situation, it is important to find ways to be cost effective, and still give the consumer the product they want; however, they may not be willing to pay the prices they used to pay, due to their lack of funds if they had also been laid off either in the UK or in other countries around the world. When sourcing labour, it is important to speak with the owners in order to find out if they follow the Government guidelines and worker’s rights; it could be possible that the country where you as the buyer source materials and labour does not have any rights to protect its workers. Therefore, it could be possible for the company that you work for to provide basic rights to the workers in your employment during the manufacturing and sourcing of materials part of the buying cycle. Another issues that could arise is the ebb and flow of the currency market, as this can alter which countries you do business with. For example, in some countries it could be the same price to source materials if you had sourced the materials in the UK, but the quality could be poorer. Miss Francesca Couture could suffer if there were more regulations put in place in overseas manufacturing companies, it could reduce productivity, and extend the time it takes to receive the finished product. If the country where the store was located had an increase in unemployment it could affect the amount of products that could be sold, and increase the amount of stock in the store. Social factors that could affect the sourcing decisions include the use of endangered animal furs or skins, which could incur bad press and the company could be targeted by ethical campaigners like PETA. This could be detrimental in keeping loyal customers, and gaining the trust of new customers, as the company could appear to be uncaring towards the plight of endangered animals killed for profit. Similar to the Ranza Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, there could be similar problems that could occur with the choice of manufacturers that you as a buyer choose to do business with. Ethical issues that could arise include the fact that your company may be involved in illegal child labour, poor wages, and unsafe work environments. Even though as the buyer for a clothing company you may not be solely responsible for this if it does appear to be happening, but you have the contract with the manufacturer and are therefore indirectly involved and any involvement could be bad for publicity and global expansion into other markets. Customers are becoming more aware of the ethical issues surrounding manufacturing of products and sourcing of materials. Miss Francesca Couture could use cheap manufacturers, and if another Ranza Plaza building collapse occurred then it could cause ramifications for the small business such as fines, government investigation and personal responsibility. Technology factors that could affect the sourcing decisions include the development of communication platforms like Skype, making it easier for a buyer to converse with the owner of a factory so they can have a ‘face to face’ conversation about the manufacturing process, and also negotiate the correct price through speaking face to face with the correct tone and facial cues. The development of technology as a whole, especially with date configuration, allows the time it takes to find out and understand data has shortened making it easier to make decisions without estimation. It is also easier for a buyer to find out more about the manufacturer of a fabric or a product through the internet; read testimonials from other companies, and understand the backbone of the manufacturing company, i.e workers rights and any changes that they have implemented. This cuts the travel costs down for the buyer. For a small company like Miss Francesca Couture this is a good thing, as it is cost effective, and allows for me time placed towards designing the products. Sourcing the materials is a lot easier, because for a small business there could be little to no contacts for the owner, and therefore they are basically looking for the best deal amongst thousands without any experience in negotiation. Legal factors that could affect the sourcing decision include copyright infringement, if a particular print was sourced that is similar to a design that is currently being produced and sold by another country could incur legal penalties. For a larger business this could affect it slightly, but for a small business it could result in the company going bankrupt, and its reputation lost. The use of illegal factories, and illegal workers could also be an issue, especially when the company is trying to cut the cost of producing the product. The best way to overcome this is to thoroughly research the company before you sign a contract. In regards to sourcing materials, it may be illegal to export materials that the government has placed restrictions on, the same could be said with important materials such as leather or exotic skins that the UK or US government has restriction of. Any material that is prevented from being used in the manufacturing of the products could cause a delay in the release of the new range, and it could cause the company to lose money and ultimately decrease the expected gross profit. Environmental factors that could affect the sourcing decision include the weather, as this could damage the crops used to harvest the raw materials. For example, if there was a flood where the cotton was being picked and processed, it could destroy a seasons worth of raw materials and the factory where it is processes. Also, if there was a drought, it could affect the quality of the materials, and if the buyer is unable to travel to visit the farm where the crops grow they might not find out until it is too late about the quality of the materials being used. One of the most sever cases of environmental effects on the sourcing of materials and products include natural disasters, for example volcanoes eruption, floods, and forest fires. There could also be a dissemination of crop death if the raw materials is overly farmed by multiple companies around the world, destroying the natural habitat of the country you are using for sourcing and production. For a small company like Miss Francesca Couture this may not seem like it is their responsibility, however it is important for even the smallest retail business to understand that any involvement is involvement. It requires the company to take responsibility.
Task 14: Global Impact Of Buyers Decisions.
The global impacts of sourcing materials and manufacturing for a buyer include enriching communities in developing countries. For example, the video that I will analyse talks about the benefits of investment in Mauritius. Mauritian company ‘World Knits’ produces 50,000 finished garments a day and exports their products to companies around the world; one of which is Marks and Spencer. The company ‘World Knits’ is able to increase the staff, and help Mauritian people get steady work and improve the economy of the island. The investment from large companies like Marks and Spencer is helping thousands of people in Mauritian get out of poverty, and improve their lives. The employees are able to learn new skills, and some create their own business enterprises from the knowledge they gain whilst working in manufacturing factories. This gives them more opportunities for income, and employing their fellow Mauritians, and improving their economy. The buyer can cause all of these changes in a communities life, and can also cause negative changes to a communities life depending on whether they help the community or ignore it. For the future of the buyer’s position and the companies success, it is important for both the employer and employee to be living well, with opportunities to succeed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJvFWzd3FOs
Task 14: Global Impact Of Buyers Decisions.
In this video the negative side of the retail industry is brought to light. A young woman in China talks to camera about how the factory provides them with cramped rooms to share with the other employees, they have to stay there as the rent is deducted from the pay check even if they live elsewhere. They get paid less than $3 for working day and night, and do not have sufficient ventilation as the weather gets hotter, and the air become stagnant. It is poignant to see also how the company who runs this ‘sweatshop’ is one of the biggest in the world: Walmart. For the buyer it must be a relief to know that you work for a company that conducts regular checks of the factories where the fabric and production is sourced.
However, the young woman in the video testifies to the fact that Walmart will tell the employees how to lie to the investigators. For example, they are told to tell the investigators that they only work for six days, when in fact they work every day without a rest. They also given a fake payslip to show how many hours they ‘worked’ when in fact they have worked longer. All of this video footage is proof that companies are still covering up the fact that they are sourcing the cheapest labour, and the cheapest products, to sell to the consumer globally who is ignorant to the harm they are inadvertently causing. As a buyer it is not ultimately up to you to travel to the manufacturer, and to find out if the employees are treated ethically, and that the products are ethically sourced and produced under the company standards. However, it should be a part of every human beings altruistic nature to prevent sweat shops from continuing on in this manner. Although, it is hard to imagine where the thousands of workers would go if the factory was to be closed down. They would be out of a job, and have no home. This is the thin line that must be tread when discussing the issues with sourcing in the retail industry. It is important for the buyer to highlight all the negative issues they find when visiting the factories abroad, if they get the opportunity. It is an important business strategy in the long run to protect the employees. Providing guideline for the owners of the factory to follow, with dire consequences if they do not abide by them, is a possible business strategy. Not only will this prevent further abuse, it could cause a wave of change within the retail sector as the stories of those affected come to light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SI_pFD5yEcc
Task 14: What external aspects would impact your choice of supplier?
Natural Disasters
Local Disasters
Epidemics
War/Conflicts
Natural disasters like volcanic eruption can disrupt the buying cycle, as workers in factories would lose their homes and would be evacuated. Any finished products in the factories would be destroyed, this could cause the buyer to find an emergency supplier in another country to fulfil the orders. Other natural disasters such as floods or droughts could prevent the growth of crops if the cotton field was destroyed, this would lead the buyer to look elsewhere for the raw materials but this could lower the quality of the product and may increase the price of the product if there is no time to negotiate a fair price due to disruption in the critical path.
Local disasters like factory fires could cause the supplier to go out of business, and all the money paid to the company to disappear as they are unable to refund the cost of the production back to the buyers company. Therefore, the buyer would have to look at another supplier, they may not have a rapport with them and they could end up paying an excess amount of money to make sure their product is finished in time. Also, if there was illegalities involves that the company was responsible for, the company would have to pay a compensation premium to the employees. If there is a fire in a garment factory, for example in India where embellishment is the main export, it could cause a loss of product and profit.
Epidemics that could affect the buying cycle include bird flu, which could hurt the community and could spread illness through the workforce. This could slow down production, and ultimately cause the company to pay to help the community, and also find another supplier, which could cost them extra.
Political unrest like we have seen in Turkey and Egypt, can affect the production and trade of products to other countries. If there is a government coup, there could be extreme changes in policy and taxation that could prevent companies outside the country to sign contracts with suppliers. Trade embargo’s that we have seen in Cuba with the United States of America have only been lifted in 2015, but since the 1960’s it has caused poverty and lack of economic growth within the country as they have not been able to form contacts and contracts with bigger businesses.
COST The influx of the stock market can affect the currency exchange. This can create issues when drawing up deals with suppliers and contractors, as the price may inflate over a period of time causing the company to seek manufacturing elsewhere. Oil prices can affect the consumer in a positive way, as petrol becomes cheaper. However, it can also affect the company in a negative way as their value could decrease, and be effected economically. The buyer should look at cheaper currency markets to buy their goods, and different logistical methods.
Task 14: What external aspects would impact your choice of supplier? Cuba is a communist country that has had icy relations with the western world since the Cuba-USA trade embargo in the 1960’s.
This has prevented companies in Cuba from trading with non-Cuban companies for decades, and thus reducing the economic growth of the country. In 2014, President Obama decided to end the trade embargo with Cuba which could give opportunities to American businesses as well as Cuban businesses. ‘Unilever will build a $35m soap and toothpaste factory in Cuba's special development zone at the newly-dredged port of Mariel west of Havana, from where 125,000 Cubans set sail bound for the US in 1980…’ (The Telegraph, 2016)This will increase jobs in the community for entry level workers as well as experienced professionals in textiles, science, and management. As a buyer this could affect the choice of suppliers, as it is a new market that can offer fair negotiable prices for their land, and employees. ‘Nine foreign companies are now approved by Cuba to settle in the free zone of Mariel, some of them in partnership with the Cuban state. Cuba is opening up its economy to foreign investment. The island of some 11.1m people has seen some significant changes since 2011…’(The Telegraph, 2016) Cuba is a developed country, close to the one of the biggest economies in the entire world; United States of America. This opens a wealth of income for the Cuban community around the coast where the shipping of products and importing of materials will occur. This is a positive aspect of trade agreements and allowing companies to trade with anyone, as the negative affects of the Cuban embargo over the last 4 decades have included impoverished communities, and lack of opportunities for state educated men and women. As the buyer, the inclusion of foreign trade in Cuba will give textile workers a stable job where their expertise in creative design, manufacturing, can be used with the location of the country so close to the western market of America; making it easier to transport goods to stores within the USA and further afield, without fear of border crossing or any war conflicts that could occur
in most manufacturing countries like India, Turkey, and Cambodia.
References The Huffington Post, (2016). Let's Make a Deal: Doing Business in Cuba. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/william-mleogrande/lets-make-a-deal-doing-bu_b_8853206.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
References Anon, (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/globalbusiness/12094475/Unilever-to-open-up-shopin-Cuba-in-2017.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
Task 14: What external aspects would impact your choice of supplier?
When Ebola ravaged through the African continent in 2014 and 2015, it was a cause for concern for all businesses around the world. The effect on the economy included businesses in the UK losing money due to limited trade in and out of the effected regions. The death toll surpassed 1500 in most communities, and the fatality rate for the disease is 91%, (This Is Money, 2014). London mining share price dropped to almost half of its worth in the space of six weeks. With a lack of supply increases the demand for any product.
As a buyer for a retail company, they are indirectly affected as this can cause anxiety within the business world as Africa is one of the largest growing economies, so any form of trade embargo due to a pandemic can be detrimental on any fabric that is sourced in North Africa and South Africa. ‘‘Any material decline in production would quickly translate into economic and fiscal deterioration,’ Robinson adds…’ (This Is Money, 2014)
If for example a buyer for Marks and Spencer sources metal for jewellery or for zips from Africa, any loss of
life within the manufacturing and mining community could stop any production further afield of dresses, necklaces, bags and shoes. The knock on effect could cause the buyer to seek a replacement material that can be sourced quickly and for a lower cost. They would also have to protect their employees in stores throughout North Africa and South Africa, and this could in turn reduce the amount of profit throughout the year as it is an ongoing pandemic. There would be restrictions on what employees could do, and if they get sick there could be medical costs that affect if they can work in the future.
References This is Money, (2014). How ebola is menacing the UK economy. [online] Available at: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/news/article-2740084/How-ebolamenacing-UK-economy-Effects-deadly-virus-felt-businesses.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
Task 14:Crtical Analysis of Cambodia video.
$66 per month
The Garment Industry make up to 80% of the total exports. Key industry for the country
Travel over 100km to find work in the city of Phnom Penh
Constant fear of getting fired
$10 spent on miscellaneous
They employ around 3-4000 people, mainly women. ILO estimates 91% of the workers are women
Some have debts to pay
Young Woman Aged 18-22
Workers faint often
$8 spent on rent $17 sent back home to family
If there is no work there is no job, no pay.
Some pick rubbish up for money
A Wage You Can Live On: Textile Workers in Cambodia
5:50 AM First Morning Shift Starts
Food they buy is low on calories, cannot support their long hours
Helps attract capital to the country through the export of goods, which is now $4billion per year
Lunch Break Unspecified Time
Regulators are ignorant to the problems in factories
$31 left $1 per day To feed yourself Overtime is a requirement with no extra pay
Brands involved include: Converse, Nike, H&M, Calvin Klein
One day a young worker received 40 cents.
H&M denies Responsibility for workers rights
A very small room, 4x4 meters that with shared facilities can cost $25 to rent. Three people could live there at one time
Basic salary is 50-58 US$ per month. It can increase to 61-65 US$ depending on technical ability to sew.
Minimum wage in Cambodia is 61US$ plus $5 ‘Cost of Living Allowance’
10:00 AM Shift Finishes Mid-Morning The Next Day
Task 14:Crtical Analysis of Cambodia video. The garment industry makes up 80% of the exports from the country, and its main competitors include Vietnam and China. Due
to they highly competitive nature of the industry, and Cambodia’s dependence on the manufacturing industry for its growing economy, you can see in the video the effects that it has on the workers who work 12 hour shifts with one break, and can continue to work overnight and into the mid-morning. They are paid a minimum of $66 dollars per month, $25 goes on the rented room they share with relatives and other workers. They share a bathroom, and live in confined spaces. They have no rights as workers, despite trade unions being prevalent in Cambodia. The age of the workers varies between 18-25, and are mainly young women. However there could be some manufacturing companies that use illegal labour, and underage girls, due to their nimble fingers, and their size making them easier to squeeze into a factory and thus produce more products at a quicker rate. The basic salary provided can vary, depending on the discretion of the owner of the factory; in some cases there is overtime that is unpaid. All of this relates to the need to compete with manufacturing competitors around Asia that are taking lucrative contracts with global brands. With their pay, they sometimes receive a few bags of rice that lasts them for thirty days. This is also down to the discretion of
the factory owner, and could be a rare occurrence. Their diet is low in energy, with Cambodian street food with calories as low as 500. This is not enough to sustain a factory worker and the working conditions they suffer on a daily basis. A young woman should be getting at least 2200 calories a day, and the workers in the video are receiving less than a third of that. H&M took part in the tribunal where workers were testifying against the poor quality of the factories where they work. H&M is a Swedish company, and a representative from the Fair Trade Centre in Sweden spoke about how H&M do not have it written in their code of conduct to provide a living wage to their employees in the Cambodian factory. The country can prevent this from getting worse by introducing legislation stating that all workers must be paid a fair wage, and give all workers their rights, which the judges in the tribunal case stated was their human right. The buyer can involve themselves more in the investigation of their suppliers, and make sure that their company is not ignorant and is actively seeking fair trade and ethical standards in all of their factories. Business In Asia states that Cambodia have introduced better quality labour rights, and there is a demand for higher wages,
(Business In Asia, 2016). Until there is an outcry from consumers across the western world, this fast fashion cycle will continue. Consumers are aware of what is happening, but the temptation of cheap clothes is too much, and the fashion industry knows this. References Business-in-asia.com, (2016). Update on Cambodian Garment and textile Industry. [online] Available at: http://www.business-in-asia.com/industries/cambodia_garment.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
Task 14:Critical Analysis of Bangladesh Collapse.
The owner Sohel Rana ordered employees to return to their posts despite cracking plaster day before the incident
Bangladesh garment industry is worth ÂŁ16.7bn a year, and 60% of its exports go to Europe.
1,135 workers died. 2,515 injured.
Built on swampy unstable ground, in Dhaka.
Bangladesh Factory Collapse
Most of the victims were female
3000 children became orphans after the collapse.
After the deadly catastrophe at Rana Plaza, the factory building outside Dhaka that collapsed last April, retailers came together to form two separate pacts: the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety.
Upper four floors were built without permission.
Collapsed April 24th 2013
Preliminary findings suggest vibrations from four giant generators on the compound’s upper floors triggered the collapse.
18 garment factories were closed shortly after the collapse due to safety reasons.
Once photos of Benetton clothes within the rubble emerged, the company changed its tune. Chief executive Biagio Chiarolanza explained to The Huffington Post that one of his Indian suppliers had subcontracted two orders from one of the factories. The company blamed the flip-flopping on the vastness of its supply chain, which includes 700 manufacturers around the globe
References BBC News, (2016). Bangladesh factory collapse toll passes 1,000 - BBC News. [online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-22476774 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. References The Huffington Post, (2016). A Year After Deadly Collapse, Bangladesh's Garment Industry Remains Broken. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/24/bangladesh-factory-workers_n_5200427.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
BBC News, January 2016
Task 14:Crtical Analysis of Bangladesh Collapse.
The Mirror, June 2013
The Huffington Post, March 2014
Vogue, April 2015
BBC News, May 2013
References BBC News, (2016). Bangladesh factory collapse toll passes 1,000 - BBC News. [online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-22476774 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. Mail Online, (2016). Target and Kmart accused of exploitation for selling shirts for $2. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3403101/Target-Kmart-accused-using-slavelabour-school-clothing-lines-sell-shirts-just-2-deny-putting-price-factory-workers-welfare.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. Mortimer, C. (2015). 41 charged over deadly Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/bangladesh-factorycollapse-41-charged-over-deadly-rana-plaza-tragedy-a6781876.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. The Huffington Post, (2016). A Year After Deadly Collapse, Bangladesh's Garment Industry Remains Broken. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/24/bangladesh-factoryworkers_n_5200427.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. Vogue UK, (2016). Benetton Pays Into Rana Plaza Fund. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2015/04/20/benetton-donates-1-million-rana-plaza-donors-trustfund [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. Wright, S. (2013). Bangladesh factory collapse: Heartbreak of the disaster orphans. [online] mirror. Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/bangladesh-factory-collapse-heartbreakdisaster-1926977 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. YARDLEY, J. (2013). Scores Dead in Bangladesh Building Collapse. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/25/world/asia/bangladesh-building-collapse.html?_r=0 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
The Independent, December 2015
Daily Mail, January 2016 New York Times, April 2013
Task 14:Crtical Analysis of Bangladesh video. As of January 2016, a Bangladesh court tried 41 people, and found them guilty of murder over the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory which killed over 1,000 workers. It was built on unstable swampy ground outside the capital city of Dhaka. 1,135 workers were killed, and many others injured. There were reports that stated that workers in the Rana Plaza factory the day before had been evacuated by the owner over fears of the building collapsing. However, they were ordered to go back into the factory and continue to work. This lack of care for life by the owner is why he was charged as well as 40 other people. There is an intense focus on producing products at a faster rate, year on year, and this constant need to surpass targets and please the western companies who they hold the contracts with is only making the industry more dangerous. (BBC News, May 2013) The building housed five garment factories inside, that supplied products to predominately western retail businesses like Primark, Walmart, and United Colours of Bennetton. According to an article by Vogue in April 2015, they stated that Benetton Group had ‘answered its critics’ and paid $1.1 million into the Rana Plaza Donors Trust Fund. This is amount is ‘double the figure that was recommended to pay by independent assessors PwC and Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production…’. ‘We have decided to go further, to demonstrate very clearly how deeply we care,’ said Marco Airoldo, chief executive officer of Benetton Group, originally reported by Womens Wear Daily. Photos began to surface shortly after the collapse of Benetton clothes amongst the rubble, according to the Huffington Post article in March 2014; ‘…Benetton first claimed it was not involved with any of the factories inside the doomed building…’ (Vogue, April 2015) Chief Executive Biagio Chiarolanza explained to the Huffington Post that ‘…one of his Indian suppliers had subcontracted two orders from one of the factories…the company blamed the flip-flopping on the vastness of its supply chain, which includes 700 manufacturers around the globe…’ (The Huffington Post, March 2014) This is a clear problem that might not only affect Benetton, but many other retailers around the world who have contracts with suppliers throughout Asia. If a company does not follow up with the company that manufacturers the products, and the buyer does not visit regularly this is what could occur. A lack of transparency throughout a supply chain so deep can only incur a devastating event like the Rana Plaza Collapse. What could be learnt from this is that buyers should clarify in their contracts that only the factory that signs the contract can take on the work load, and must not under any circumstance pawn off the work load to other businesses in the region that have not been vetted by the retail companies buyers and quality control officers. Many families were impacted by the Rana Plaza collapse, with children being the worst affected. Not only did scores of women and young girls die in the factory, due to illegal labour and lack of health and safety regulations. Many orphans became a bi-product of this event. The Mirror in June 2013 wrote an article about the 3,000 orphans that had been created from the disaster. One of the young orphans called Suvo Bizoy had his mother and father die in the factory collapse. The little boy ‘returns every day to sit with tear-filled eyes in the rubble of the Bangladesh clothing factory where his parents died…’ He was nine years old when he saw rescuers retrieve his mothers lifeless body from the rubble, according to The Mirror. As a result of the accident The Mirror writes about the protests and uprising that occurred amongst other factory workers in Dhaka; ‘…Last Saturday, 20 garment factories in Dhaka, including some which supply H&M and Tesco, were forced to close after workers clashed with riot police in protests over working conditions..’ This act of defiance despite the threat of losing their jobs shows how angry the workers are, and the lack of help that they are receiving from the big western companies who were involved. Not only does the buyer have to be aware of the carbon footprint that affects the environment when they import and export goods around the world, across borders, using numerous forms of transportation; they also have to now be more considerate of the welfare of the employees they are indirectly responsible for in their garment factories. It is easy to turn a blind eye, and to not investigate the smallest fault when you are a buyer for a large company. However, the buyer sees first hand where the clothes are being manufactured, and the safety of the factory. It is their job, whether they see it or not, to act and prevent another disaster like this happening again, and seek safer manufacturing methods, and stand side by side with fair trade groups to prevent workers being abused. Every company should outline a minimum wage for the workers who produce their clothing, and set a target for all their suppliers to get factories fitted with correct health and safety procedure and prevent child labour also. However, nothing has really changed since the Rana Plaza collapse. In January 2016, The Daily Mail wrote an article that was disturbing; ‘…Target and Kmart in Australia…Target is selling polo shirts made in Bangladesh for just $2. Competitor Kmart is selling polo shirts made in China for $2. What is interesting however is the fact that Austrlian’s have voiced their outrage on twitter and have threatened to boycott both fast fashion brands. According to The Daily Mail, ‘Kmart was the first Asutralian company to join the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord following the 2013 collapse of factory building Rana Plaza which killed 1127 workers. Target was the second company to do so…’ The Daily Mail also states that ‘…the national minimum wage in Bangladesh is around $98 a month, 45% lower than a living wage…’. Both companies refused to comment. This is only adding to the mistrust in the retail industry.
Task 14: Fairtrade
Veronique Henry is a jewellery designer, she has written a blog for The Huffington Post (January 2016) about her design process. Veronique talks about the importance of collaborating with people, rather than taking from them in regards to their talent. She will produce a design with the help of artists from
Part of the ‘Fourth Industrial Revolution’ (Huffington Post, 2016)
around the world. Fairtrade is also important for both the consumer and the company producing the product, as the use of organic materials and helping communities in the manufacturing of the product, can both protect the environment as adverse toxins are not released into the community, and the community is paid a fair wage for the end product. This helps the
Fairtrade means that everyone involved is given a share of the profits
development of the community, as it provides a stable wage and a stable career for generations to come. According to the UK’s Soil Association, ‘The non-organic cotton industry uses 16 percent of all insecticides…Organic cotton has been determined to be better for workers, especially in developing countries. The end garments are residue free, which is good news for those with allergies or sensitive skin..’ (Luremburger Wort, 2016) Not only is this method of production beneficial to the customer, but also the employee with the job of milling the cotton and then producing the garment. Fair trade gives everybody a better life, and protects the environment.
References Wort.lu, (2016). Organic clothing: Rethinking the clothing cycle in Luxembourg. [online] Available at: http://www.wort.lu/en/lifestyle/organic-clothing-rethinking-the-clothing-cycle-in-luxembourg569e55340da165c55dc51809 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
Collaboration with artists from every part of the world. Not mass producing products, there is a story.
Task 14:Critical Analysis of Nike. Nike has been ridiculed for decades about their use of sweatshops when producing their apparel and footwear products. Regardless about the complaints that have been public about their use of illegal labour, bad health conditions and nonexistent workers rights, they still continue to use sweatshops for their clothing and admit that ‘…such abuse has occurred
among the contractors that make its hip high-tops but says there was little it could do to stop it..’ (The Huffington Post, 2010). For a global company that is turning over a billion dollars a year to concede they can not do anything to prevent subcontractors from using illegal workers in factories with no health and safety is a terrible business strategy, as it show they do not care about their product’s supply chain. Workers are fired after taking sick leave, even with a doctors note: ‘Mira Agustina, 30, said she was fired in 2009 for taking sick leave, even though she had a doctor’s note…’(The Huffington Post, 2010) Nike conducted their own independent inquirers, Daily Mail reports ‘…Nike’s own inquires found workers at the two factories were subjected to ‘serious and egregious’ physical and verbal abuse, including the punishment of forcing workers to stand in the sun…’ (The Huffington Post, 2010) This is a case of blatant ignorance on a part of the whole organisation. The buyer has a responsibility to deter the company from forming relationships with manufacturers and contractors who then subsequently subcontract the work to even worse working environments. Many year ago Nike was at the forefront of a hate campaign due to their use of illegal child labourer, they have since attempted to change that, however the 2011 discovery of their abusive suppliers and manufacturers totally eradicates the years of public apologies, as the system they use still has not changed. Like many companies who outsource their manufacturing to countries like Indonesia, and the surrounding countries, they are increasing the weight of their carbon footprint with the toxic chemical released when they burn the rubber at the factories, and also when dying products; the toxins released could enter the water supplies of the local community. There needs to be an action that is implemented by several big government’s to stop the continued abuse of the planet. Nike has continued to talk about their efforts in protecting the environment, however an ex-employee wrote for The Huffington Post in July 2010 about how they burn the excess rubber outside, despite claiming they no longer do this (The Huffington Post, 2010). The excess rubber is dumped in local recycling plants, close to communities. Toxic fumes are dispersed into the surrounding air and habitats. This should be changed, and there needs to be harder fines for companies who do this, to deter them from destroying the environment. References The Huffington Post, (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/jim-keady/the-dumping-and-burning-o_b_643763.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016]. References The Huffington Post, (2016). Nike Bends To University Demands, Promises To Help Displaced Honduran Workers. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/07/27/nike-bends-to-university_n_660764.html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2016].
Task 15: Balanced Sourcing Balanced sourcing is when a buyer balances orders between two or more suppliers to reduce dependency and minimise risk. There is two different sub-types of sourcing; single sourcing: where the retail business uses one supplier, and focused sourcing: having a variety of suppliers at the retail businesses disposal. The advantages of using single sourcing include having a strong relationship with the owner of the supplier, making it a lot easier to monitor the export of products and making it easier to scrutinise the supplier and how they treat their employees. Another advantage is that for independent retailers there is one charge for their whole manufacturing and production, one set of taxes, and one set of rules they must
abide by as it is one supplier based in one country. A disadvantage of single sourcing includes lack of variety in manufacturing techniques, for example the supplier may only be able to provide cotton produced clothing, and not wool or embellished clothing. This lack of variety limits the designs that can be produced, and there is no balance between the designer and the supplier. Also, if there are external factors that can damage the supplier, for example an earthquake or a drought, could cause the whole production of clothing to come to a halt for a period of time which can affect the companies growth. There will also be a lack of fabric technology development and innovation that could improve the company, but since they only stick to one supplier it could cause them to fall behind their competitors. There could also be a
lack of alternative logistic methods when exporting the products, as there is no other route that could be taken, and no other supplier that could be utilised. Focused sourcing is a retailer having a variety of suppliers, for example they will have one supplier in India who will be in control of producing embellished dressers, and one supplier in Madagascar who will produce jersey material and produce the more essential and cheaper line within the business. There is a greater ‘mutual interpendence’, for example both the supplier and the retail business are not depending on one another for survival, making it easier for both companies to make objective decisions based on what is best for the customer as well as the company. With focused sourcing there is an increased competitiveness in the market, making it easier for smaller companies and big companies to negotiate deals with different suppliers and get the cheapest deal. This lack of monopoly helps both industries to grow. A disadvantage is the increased amount of clients that the supplier takes on could lead to them outsourcing the manufacturing to smaller, more dangerous, suppliers without the retailer knowing this. Also, the supplier is less likely to care on a one-toone basis with each retailer they have contracts with, and the relationship might not be as strong, causing retailers to find their orders are not processed quickly, or efficiently. As the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I would suggest that the use of focused sourcing would be beneficial to the brand, as it allows the company to not only negotiate with different suppliers who have distinct methods of production for different products, but is also a fail-safe in case on goes under due to external factors, making it easer for Miss Francesca Couture to bounce back and not delay production.
Task 15: Arcadia Ethical Considerations
The Joint Turkey Project (JTP) is TOPSHOP and TOPMAN’s programme to move beyond the traditional auditing model while achieving compliance with retailers’ codes of compliance. Its mission is to empower factory owners, managers and workers to create a fair working environment while reducing audit fatigue.
Burma used to be a banned country, but in recent years Arcadia have witnessed recent developments in the country that give it confidence to begin sourcing trials there.
Country Risk Assessments are used to review the safety of the suppliers in different countries. For example as one of the several retailers who have signed the ‘Accord’, Arcadia have agreed to establish a fire and building safety programme in Bangladesh for a period of five years.
Prohibited Activities include protecting animal welfare, sandblasting method on denim that is hazardous to workers health, and child labour in the cotton industry as well as animal cruelty in production of wool
60% of their suppliers have been with them for three years or more.
Arcadia goods are manufactured in approx. 985 factories through 766 suppliers.
In 2015 Arcadia products were made in 49 countries worldwide.
The top five countries were China, Turkey, Romania, India and Bangladesh.
This includes hiring a safety inspector, and establish a framework for Governance
Strategic Labour Priorities: a. Living wage b. Freedom of association c. Purchasing practices d. Vulnerable workers
Arcadia Group do not own or operate their own factories.
Arcadia Group Ethical Considerations
There are eight on-going areas of ethical activity within Arcadia: • Ethical Audit Programme • Country Risk Assessments • RAGS-the responsibility and accountable garment sector project. • Joint Turkey Project • Strategic Labour Priorities • Code of Conduct Guidebook • HR Management systems • Prohibited Activities
Arcadia’s top 20 suppliers provide 44% of their goods.
Code of Conduct guidebook helps guide supplier owners and management about factory set-up procedure.
In 2015 Arcadia reviewed 1,269 ethical audits for all brands.
The project focuses on establishing a more stable and satisfied workforce, enhancing workers pay, avoiding excessive hours works, and improving productivity and quality in the long run.
Arcadia is one of many retailers that supports Benefits for Business and Workers (BBW) project, part of the Responsible and Accountable Garment Sector (RAGS) challenge fund established by DFID.
Arcadia work with smaller audit partners to make the system more efficient. 80% of audits were carried out this way.
Ethical Audit: All Arcadia brands must submit an independent third-party factory ethical audit that is no older than one year. There is a ‘red, orange, and green model’ of grading each factory. For example if a supplier is graded red then there will be no Arcadia brand allowed to use this factory until they have resolved their issues that have been highlighted in the audit. An orange grade means this supplier must comply with industry ethical practices within a six month window before any more orders are issues. Green grade means the supplier is audited annually.
Task 15: Arcadia Ethical Considerations Arcadia group is the umbrella company to eight major brands; Burton, Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Miss Selfridge, Outfit, Topshop, Topman and Wallis. All of these brands follow the Arcadia group ethical practices that are outlined on their website. Arcadia uses Focused Sourcing, using 985 factories through 766 suppliers. They do not own any factories, or have a monopoly on the workforce within each factory. This has its
advantages as they are able to negotiate the best deals within the 49 countries their suppliers reside in. However, the amount that they use can cause a blip in the supply chain when it comes to auditing and making sure that correct ethical procedures are followed by each manager, and each workforce. Therefore Arcadia does not audit them all alone, they contract auditing partners to audit 80% of their factories. This is a good policy to have, as it is easy for a global retail group to let a few factories to slip through the net and therefore this could cause hazardous problems within the factories and another incident like the Rana Plaza could occur. The top five countries that the Arcadia group use include China, Turkey, Romania, India and Bangladesh. Bangladesh is under-review by Arcadia, after the Rana Plaza incident, and under the Arcadia grading system it is currently graded Orange, giving any factories in Bangladesh a number of intricate policies to follow for five years. Burma used to be banned because of the political issues and health and safety issues that were prevalent within the country; but as of 2015 they were monitored and Arcadia’s confidence in their factories grew
slightly as they introduced sourcing trials there. This is a great method for any retailer to find out if the factory is safe, looks after their employees, and follows health and safety guidelines with the introduction of a safety inspector to the workforce. Not only does it reduce the risk of Arcadia losing money if there were any delays in the supply chain, or the abuse of employees etc, it can prevent Arcadia’s eight brands from behind indicted if there was to be a factory collapse, or an investigation that could find banned practices such as animal cruelty or hazardous methods of production such as sand-blasting. Arcadia uses the Joint Turkey Project (JTP) which is a new method of auditing that not only includes random checks on factories, but an interaction with the workforce from top to bottom to provide a better way of life for the factory, for example empowering factory owners, and creating a fair working environment; not only does this ease the pressure of auditing reviews, it gives the auditors a one to one relationship with each factory to provide a better level of care and attention that could prevent abuse of the workforce, and overexerting employees to meet deadlines. Arcadia’s ethical considerations include introducing the living wage to factory workers in countries around the world, providing a stable living for them and their families, preventing them from suffering and living in impoverished conditions. Freedom of Association includes building a dialogue with employees and management, making sure they are allowed to voice their opinions in a safe environment and introduce new safety policies within the factory. Purchasing Practices starts from the design team and to the buyers, where they are made aware of difficulties that could be faced by the factory workers when producing a certain design that requires long hours, and could cause fatigue and abuse from the management to fulfil the deadlines of each retailer they have contracts with. Vulnerable Workers policy includes managing in certain countries the opportunity for employees to carry out production tasks at home allowing employees who may have young children to balance their work life and family life, giving all communities a chance to earn a decent wage and not fall into detrimental poverty. Also, migrant workers are a huge issues through the retail industry, and Arcadia have recently discovered a factory they use in Mauritius was using migrant workers: ‘This year in-depth assessments took place at two of our key suppliers in Mauritius. The suppliers were selected due to the high percentage of migrant workers they employ. Some improvements were identified and immediate corrective action plans were put in place. The assessments confirmed that our Migrant Worker guidelines are still relevant and essential guidance for suppliers employing migrant workers in their supplier chains…’(Arcadia Ethical Consideration,2015). Arcadia no longer use contract workers, which is the use of self-employed workers for specific roles in the workforce. This reduces delays in the supply chain if a contract worker does not turn up, or does not follow the guidelines due to them not having a contract with the factory. The amount of factories that Arcadia use can make it difficult to monitor every factory and make sure that they keep in line with the ethical guidelines that Arcadia care so much about as a group. However, the in-depth ethical considerations that Arcadia utilise prevent little issues becoming bigger and astronomical issues that could cause death, or the public destruction of the brand that has happened to other brands such as GAP in the 2000’s, where it was discovered they used sweatshop factories (CNN, 2007)(1). The company has not
recovered, and has become a warning to many other retailers. This is why it is important that every employee in Arcadia understands where the clothes are made, and who makes them, and keeps them in their high level job.
References (1) Edition.cnn.com, (2016). Gap: Report of kids' sweatshop 'deeply disturbing' - CNN.com. [online] Available at: http://edition.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/asiapcf/10/29/gap.labor/ [Accessed 27 Jan. 2016].
Task 15: Arcadia Ethical Considerations Even though Arcadia has an in depth section on their website dedicated to ethical issues they prevent, and detailed information about audits and factory safety in cohesion with their suppliers. However, and ITV Exposure investigation in 2014 discovered that during their undercover filming of a factory in Dhaka, there were clear British Home Stores labelling attached to finished products. (ITV Exposure, 2014) ITV Exposure informed Arcadia, who own BHS, that their shirts were found ‘stored in the Vase Apparels Factory…where a fire door was padlocked shut…’
Arcadia Group released a statement, claiming ‘…we have carried out a full investigation with our suppliers The Fielding Group Ltd, who have categorically confirmed to us that no BHS goods have been made at Vase
Apparels, it has been made known to us that the owner of Vase Apparels operates other factories in Bangladesh and some goods for BHS were stored in the factory concerned. Our group operates in over 40 countries and arranges inspections of hundreds of factories each year. We take our responsibilities seriously in all the countries our suppliers source from…’ (ITV Exposure, 2014)
However the investigation clearly highlights that a fire door was blocked, a detail that the Arcadia Group statement completely ignored. They did not deny involvement in the factory that the journalist was placed in undercover, they instead highlighted the name of the supplier and blamed their ownership and subcontracting policy as the main antagonist in the story. If The Fielding Group Ltd had been correctly audited by Arcadia, they would have known that they had other factories that they could have outsourced to and therefore BHS products could have been manufactured by those sub-contractors. The lack of altruism could cause me as a buyer to conclude that there is no attention given to small indescrepencies like a blocked fire door; but that fire door could be the cause of employees death if there was another Rana Plaza incident. It is important for all companies, regardless how vast the supply chain is, scrutinise each issue, as it could be the difference between life, and a lawsuit. References ITV News, (2014). Arcadia: 'No BHS goods made' at danger factory. [online] Available at: http://www.itv.com/news/update/2014-02-06/arcadia-no-bhs-goods-made-at-danger-factory/ [Accessed 27 Jan. 2016].
Task 15: Arcadia Ethical Considerations
Shortly after the Rana Plaza incident, many retailers where quick to distance themselves from the collapse of the factory in Bangladesh. However, Arcadia was one of three retailers to publicly support the cause to prevent anything like this happening in the retail industry again.
A spokesperson spoke to Womens Wear Daily, ‘As a large clothing retailer, we were deeply saddened by the recent events in Bangladesh and our thoughts are with all of those affected…In order to show support for their iniative that this accord is propsing to undertake, we a group will be signing up. This will be done on the condition that we understand the final costs to us, which to date has not been clear…’ (Vogue, 2013)
As Vogue writer Ella Alexander iterates, ‘the agreement stipulates that companies should pay towards renovation and
repairs in order to ensure that the country’s garment factories are safe. It also demands that the retailers should agree to independent safety inspections and sever ties with any factories that refuse to adhere to the requirments…’ This forward positioning of the Arcadia group has lead to numerous ethical considerations being implemented since 2013, including the new auditing grade system that has caused them to sever ties with factories in countries like Burma, as well as be more cautious when using factories in Bangladesh, who currently have an orange grade rating. I can understand why Arcadia were nervous to be involved in the accord, as they did not want to be seen as the main
proprietors in the incident that killed over 1,000 people due to a lack of safety regulations. However, they are sharing some responsibility as a major retailer for being somewhat the cause of the collapse of the factory.
Even though they have a vast wealth of ethical instructions and guidelines available to the suppliers that have contracts with Arcadia, they can still fall short in regards to not being fully aware of what is happening in every factory within the 49 countries that they do business with. They are not omnipresent, and cannot be fully aware of the day to
day goings on within each factory, therefore their stand point of being a major player within the push for more ethical guidelines in retail can be seen as unfounded, due to the amount of time, money, and effort it would take to be as involved as they claim to be.
References Anon, (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/05/15/topshop-signs-bangladeshfactory-agreement [Accessed 27 Jan. 2016].
Task 16: Trade Shows
Important platform for men’s clothing and accessory collections
Held twice a year
Private Sector operators
YARN Knitting yarn collections
Pitti Immagine Filati (Florence)
Held twice a year
Held twice a year
Pitti Immagine Uomo is the men’s fashion collections (Florence)
Pitti Immagine Bimbo is the kidswear collection for 014 year olds (Florence)
Started in 1972 as a platform for Italian menswear designers
Important for launching new projects in men’s fashion
Held twice a year
3 day event taking place in January
Nurtures young Italian designer, inviting foreign designers and hosting events for research Held twice a year
Credited with introducing the ‘dandy’ style of menswear to the wider market
Moda Prima (Milan)
Super (Milan) Focuses on women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, aiming to ‘promote an innovation culture for product, new sectors, and emerging brands.
References FashionMag.com, (2012). Pitti and Fiera Milano launch new "Super" show. [online] Available at: http://us.fashionmag.com/news/Pitti-andFiera-Milano-launch-new-Super-show,291532.html#.Vqi5Z01ybnM [Accessed 27 Jan. 2016].
Fashion collections for men, women, and children for large retail chains
Private Sector operators
Showcases casual and sportswear for men and women, bags or suitcases, knitwear for men and women, leather apparel and furs for women and men
Task 16: YARN : Compare and Contrast Appropriate Sources of Fabric and Garments. Are these appropriate? Menswear
The menswear range that I as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture would bring to the brand is focusing on tailored suits, and formal seperates; shirts, trousers, jackets. The theme behind the menswear range is the ‘Nu-Dandy’, so the Italian trade show Pitti Immagine Uomo which according to its website is the originator behind the dandy style trend, would be beneficial when sourcing materials, and manufacturers of the clothing in Italy. As the price will be set at the higher end of the spectrum, it would seem fitting to have the materials imported from Europe as opposed to further a field. I could source boucle and tweed material for the suits and separate pieces from Pitti Immagine Uomo.
Womenswear
The womenswear range that I would bring in would include dresses, separate pieces like jackets, peplum tops, and skirts. Super, the trade show from Milan, is a new trade show that focuses on ready to wear, footwear, and accessories. This trade show focuses on the garment technology developments, which could provide valuable information on cost-effective garment technology that Miss Francesca Couture could utilise as they look for a supplier for their three new ranges, including womenswear. Super also showcases up and coming designers from Europe, especially Italy. As the womenswear range is high end, the use of Italian fabrics would update the current quality of the products that can already be found at Miss Francesca Couture, and it could be more appropriate, this is due to the fact that there is attention to detail, and a higher technique that is more desirable for a boutique brand than a fast fashion affiliated factory. However, for embellishments that could be expensive to make within Europe could be sourced in India where embellishment manufacturing is cheaper and can be produced in greater quantities with different variations of designs.
Childrenswear
The childrenswear range that I would bring in as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture would be a ‘mini me’ theme. Therefore similar materials could be used in the production of the childrenswear range for boys and girls. This could be more cost-effective, as it allows Miss Francesca Couture to source a larger volume of material, and therefore be able to negotiate a cheaper price for those materials, and help the environment by using nearly every inch of fabric with little to no wastage. Pitti Immagine Bimbo is the childrenswear trade show held in Florence twice a year, they have their own runway that highlights the different designers and the trends they have picked for the new season. It is important when introducing childrenswear into the Miss Francesca Couture brand to focus on quality, as the price that is being asked of the customer I higher than other competitors. To deter the customer away from the competition in the market, it could be seen as shrewd to source the same fabric from the womenswear and menswear ranges. This could make it more appealing to have an item of clothing cheaper than Gucci, but made in the same country (Italy). There could be an opportunity to negotiate a price for Italian garment factories to manufacture both mens, womens, and also the childrens clothing range. There will be a lot of velvet, and printed baroque, as well as boucle knitwear to suit the autumnal season. Therefore yarn tradeshows would be at the top of the list.
Fabric, accessories, and embellishment can be sourced here Established in 2007
In New York 2015 it opened its doors to leather makers, like it does in Paris
London Textile Fair There are showcases of garment technology innovation Shows in January
Textile
Premier Vision Manufacturing: Technical and logistical manufacturing solutions for fashion brands. International garment manufacturer provide subcontracting services for mid-range to high-end apparel
Shown in Paris, Moscow, New York, Sao Paulo, Shanghai
Smaller shows within: Modamont, Zoom, Indigo, Expofil, Le Cuir a Paris
The website has information about upcoming developments in the designers showcasing their products at the show
Global textile event that includes activities, meetings, and business discussions
Influential buyers and designers from the major highstreet retail stores as well as independent designers and buyers from their contract manufacturers
Each exhibitor has a single stand, chairs, rails and a sign so each exhibitor is promoted equally
Task 16: Textile : Compare and Contrast Appropriate Sources of Fabric and Garments. Are these appropriate? London Textile Fair is a newly established trade show in London that showcases manufacturers of fabrics, accessories and embellishments from different distributors from around the country; they include independent businesses as well as high street buyers, and influential buyers who could be contracted to other manufacturers. Compared to the Italian
yarn trade show, London Textile Fair provides a cheaper alternative for Miss Francesca Couture to source fabric, accessories like buttons and zips, as well as embellishment, for example trims etc. Miss Francesca Couture may teeter towards the yarn tradeshows in Italy for the more expensive items such as coats, dresses, and suits, that the customer could be willing to pay more for, however the London Textile Fair could be a great trade show to source UK made fabrics that could be used for shirts, skirts, and trousers etc. Pieces that can be sold for a cheaper price, and bulk out the range to make it more competitive in the market.
Premiere Vision is shown all around the world, with different garment specialists in regards to leather goods. The autumn/winter ranges for womens, mens, and childrenswear could include some form of leather in the shape of belts, and jackets, or accessories like gloves and footwear. Premiere Vision showcases garment technology, and this could
help Miss Francesca Couture source new and innovative ways to manufacture clothing, it could introduce me as the buyer to a more cost effective way, or a leather maker who is different from others in the field. Premiere Vision also has manufacturers of packaging, this could be brought into the Miss Francesca Couture brand to make it unmistakable when a customer carries the bag, and special when their outfit is packaged in a box similar to that of Chanel or Louis Vuitton.
Miss Francesca Couture could use London Textile fair over Premiere Vision, as it is more focused on fabrics and embellishment which will both by used in the upcoming three MFC ranges. It could be cheaper to source the material from the UK, and will add to the Miss Francesca Couture brand which has an in store bespoke service that is in its UK store.
Mens, womens, and children’s apparel, accessories, and footwear
Pure London has a variety of independent brands to well known brands like Goldie, and Rare
60,000+ industry insiders meet in Las Vegas every year Shown in February Magic Las Vegas: US brands, menswear, womenswear, and kidswear
Pure London: Womenswear, Menswear Showcases European brands
Has been open for 85 years, with attendance from 120 countries
Brands include Vivienne Westwood, Petit Bebe
BRANDED
Bread & Butter Berlin: Denim, Sportswear, and Street wear
Showcases streetwear brands, and casual wear The Rebel Show (Manchester)
Premium brands for childrenswear
Shown in Manchester every February
Stich London: Menswear Brands
Attracts international buyers from Japan, Ibiza, and UK retailers like Selfridges and Urban Outfitters
Renowned for their accessories in menswear
Showcases emerging British menswear designers Slazenger Heritage Two Toned
Task 16: Branded : Compare and Contrast Appropriate Sources of Fabric and Garments. Are these appropriate?
Menswear Branded items like leather wallets and footwear could be brought into the Miss Francesca Couture brand. Stitch trade show in London is more local for Miss Francesca Couture, and nearly every brand in the UK that is well known in the industry visits this trade show for their menswear accessories. They have developed designer brands like Christopher Kane and Alexander McQueen. It would be a good idea to include smaller items from UK brands in the Miss Francesca Couture, as it could boost profits, and by not designing or manufacturing the products themselves will be cheaper in the long run, and will not go against our profit margins. Womenswear As a boutique, it would be beneficial to increase the brand awareness if Miss Francesca Couture brought in a footwear brand that specialised in heels and bags that would fit with the dresses and separate pieces. It could be sourced from the Magic Las Vegas trade show, where there are a variety of different brands that showcase there. It could be more beneficial to buy in a brand that is from the US, as it could bring in customers to the store who may recognise the brand, as opposed to a UK brand that is unknown or making the accessories and footwear themselves with the use of a foreign factory that could cost more to produce than the gross profit made. Childrenswear Childrenswear brands that could be brought in include footwear. The Rebel Show trade show in Manchester shows every February and showcases premium brands in clothing and footwear for children, both boys and girls. Miss Francesca Couture’s competitors in childrenwear could be Kids Cavern in Cavern Walks, close to designer destination Cricket. As a buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I could make the short trip to Manchester and negotiate with Vivienne Westwood footwear, to bring in the parents who could shop at Cricket and have money to spend on designer footwear. Angulus is a Danish brand that produces formal shoes for boys and girls, as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I could bring in this brand for the boys footwear as it fits the customer profile for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. Compared to creating a brand new line of footwear for children that requires a lot of testing and responsibility in case any faults occur, it would be more beneficial to bring in a well known brand to increase the customer foot flow into the store and online, and it would be more cost effective.
Task 16: Fashion Week : Compare and Contrast Appropriate Sources of Fabric and Garments. Are these appropriate?
New York New York Fashion week is a semi-annual event that lasts up to 9 days. It consists of numerous fringe fashion designers, as well as more establish house-hold names showcasing their new collections. From the collections buyers and journalists can decipher what will be the key trend of the oncoming season, and how they can interpret it for their customer. Most of the New York shows are based on the Americana theme, with designers staying true to their roots; showcasing smart/casual outfits with minimal runway performance. Designers that show include Diane Von Furstenburg, Michael Kors, and DKNY.
Milan Milan Fashion week established in 1958, part of the big four fashion weeks. Organised by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion, held semi-annually. The style of Milan fashion week is ultra European, with an emphasis on evening wear and romantic themes. The main designers that show at Milan include Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, and Versace. It is important for buyers to be aware of Milan fashion week, as it has key trends in womenswear, and menswear, that reflect a sexy European attitude that can be brought into any brand in any season, that is different to the casual/smart styling found in New York Fashion Week.
London
Michael Kors S/S ‘14
London fashion week is held in London twice a year. It was founded in 1984, the high point of the British designer evolution. Like the other fashion week shows it presents its designers to funding organisations that can help young designers, as well as buyers who seek out the key urban and alternative trends that London fashion week presents to the masses. Unlike New York and Milan, London showcases so many different styles of designers that include Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon, and Burberry.
Paris Paris fashion week is held in Paris twice a year. It was founded in 1973. Paris fashion week is a place for buyers and journalists to see what the new innovative trends are for the upcoming season, not only can they see the clothes in motion and styled on models as opposed to hangers at a trade show, the theatrics involved in each show add to each designers runway show. It provides a theme that can inspire buyers and journalists. Designers that show at Paris fashion week include Chanel, Alexander McQueen, and Dior.
China China fashion week is held in Beijing twice a year, and was founded in 1997. Over 3200 designers show at China fashion week. China fashion week has a style that is unique to China, with their inspiration from their traditional heritage, and also the future. The contemporary designs influence brands, such as Uniqlo. Even though it is young in the fashion trade show events, it is a place that young designers can find buyers and funding from one of the largest economies in the world.
Dolce&Gabbana S/S ‘15
Task 16: Fashion Week : Compare and Contrast Appropriate Sources of Fabric and Garments. Are these appropriate? It is important for a buyer to attend fashion week as part of their sourcing research, as well as attend trade shows, because the buyer can learn different things from both form of fashion sourcing. For example, as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I can attend a fashion show for an up and coming designer at Liverpool fashion week and buy their whole collection to sell in the Miss Francesca Couture boutique; and it could sell out, or even be a platform for the designer to design another collection and gain publicity from the press within the UK if they are successful, this happened with Gareth Pugh when Browns fashion bought his entire autumn/winter 2007 collection and hosted a
Halloween party in his honour, (Vogue, 2011). Gareth Pugh, in 2011, presented a fashion show via video link to the infamous menswear trade show Pitti (Vogue, 2011). This shows how close the two industry events are. A buyer can attend trade shows and see materials, and accessories and create contacts with industry businesses, this can develop the knowledge of the buyer and who they do business with in the future. Moreover a buyer can also attend fashion weeks and liaise with designers face to face, and make orders straight away backstage, bypassing talking to an assistant on the phone. There is also a chance to see how the outfit is styled, feel the texture of the textiles, and note the main trends of the season. In contrast to trade shows that are small stalls of independent retailers and well known high street concessions, and brands, fashion weeks use theatrics to inspire buyers, journalists, and fashion followers. It is important that there is a new energy in every season to revitalise the fashion industry. Trade shows are closed off from the public, but not closed to the public; however not many people know they can go to a trade show to see for themselves what the new products brands have to advertise, and what could be the future trends to look out for.
Fashion week is accessible to everyone, and due to the increase in celebrity popularity there are inclusions of fashion shows on television, in the broadsheets and the tabloids. Fashion shows are a spectacle, and are introducing themselves to new audiences every year. It is important to look at the fashion week’s around the world as they help paint a picture, indulge a dream or a nightmare, and inspire millions of people. Trade shows are more business orientated, with more opportunity to meet with business leaders and create orders of materials and products; those decisions could be influenced by visiting fashion week. Both of them prop the other up, and a buyer can not use one over the other and get the same results. References Vogue UK, (2016). Gareth Pugh. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/gareth-pugh-biography [Accessed 28 Jan. 2016].
Task 10: Mood Board and Inspiration Board
GENDER
FLUID
BLOCK
PRINTS
OUTRAGEOUS
CONFIDENT
COLOUR
MISS FRANCESCA COUTURE AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR RANGE
£150 Contrast Sleeve Blazer: Woven Silk 40%, Velvet 50%. Lining: Silk 10% (COO: UK) £250 Black Suit: 90% Woven Silk. Lining: Silk 10% (COO: UK)
F
£250 Purple Suit: 90% Woven Silk. Lining: 10% Silk (COO: UK)
£85 Blue Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
£85 White Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
by MFC £100 Leather Shopper: 100% Leather shell. Lining: 100% Suede (COO: UK)
£120 Pointed Brogue: 90% Leather 10% Waxed Cotton. Sole: 100% PU (COO: UK) £120 Shoe Boot: 90% Waxed Cotton 10% Elastic Sole: 100% PU (COO: UK)
£125 Printed Trouser: 100% Cotton £125 Tan Trouser: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
£70 White Tee: 100% Cotton £70 Black Tee: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
£65 Shawl: 100% Wool Jersey Knit (COO: UK)
£45 Purple Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
£45 Teal Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
£45 Purple Print Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK) £150 Grey Aviator Jacket: 96% Waxed Cotton, 4% Metal (COO: UK)
Black/Purple Kilt: £250, 99% Leather, 1% Metal (COO: UK)
£45 Green Print Shirt: 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
Task 17: Menswear Range Critical Analysis
(2b) Gucci, A/W 2015/16
This range will be a designer range by Miss Francesca Couture design team, and as the buyer I will be choosing the items that would be brought into the new range. Due to the location of the flagship Miss Francesca Couture, and the surrounding stores in the Liverpool area, I concluded that it could be beneficial to compete at a higher price level and market the range to men who have money, have an interest in fashion and different trends, and care about their appearance. The market positioning fits with the target market, and customer profile, that I the buyer have curated for this new range. The initial concept board resembles a jet-set lifestyle, alternative fashion trends, and utilising the ‘Nu-Dandy’ trend that was seen at Tom Ford A/W ’16 (2a) and Gucci A/W ’16 (2b). During my trend research I found that there was a small amount of floral throughout the different catwalk shows in Milan. I felt that this trend could fit with the Miss Francesca Couture aesthetic which is alternative to other high end and designer brands that are its competitors.
Sourcing would be important for this range, as all the products will be made in the UK. Not only will this allows the brand to increase the prices, and sell the items at a higher level because of the increase in quality. It reflects the ever changing opinions of the consumer, who now more than ever are made aware of the increasing dangers that fast fashion brings to third world countries. Moreover, Miss Francesca Couture has a separate bespoke service, this gives the brand an edge when it comes to tailoring and they have gained a positive reputation for their work on social media platform Instagram. This will give the consumer confidence in their designs and their production methods when the new menswear line is introduced. I would visit the London Textile Fair in order to source the materials that I would need, and to hold meetings with UK based suppliers and manufacturers.
As Miss Francesca Couture is a small company, it could be difficult to visit far away factories, and therefore the quality could be sub-standard. Therefore, using a UK manufacturing company that can be visited more often can help Miss Francesca Couture keep track of the supply chain and instigate audits regularly, as it there has been cases of immigrant workers being used and abused in UK manufacturing. (1)(The Independent, 2011)
The pricing is rather high, but is in line with the pricing that Miss Francesca Couture already has for its current women’s ready to wear line. The pricing is indicative of the quality of the products and the amount of time it could take to produce the product at a high volume. To reduce the cost slightly, as the buyer I have made a decision to source fabric from the UK, and in bulk volume so it can be used throughout the three ranges and therefore not only make each range cohesive with the other but make it easier to balance the cost. Single sourcing could be used in this case, and a rapport could be made with a manufacturing company in the UK who could manufacture the clothing for the menswear range, and the accessories can be manufactured at a separate specialist in leather, and footwear technology. I will attend tradeshows within the UK to source manufacturers and materials.
The key pieces in this collection are the suits as they reflect the tailoring background of the company, and also the theme that is consistent throughout all three ranges which is Autumn/Winter 2016 evening wear. There is a dandy-esque theme with the clothing, and this is also utilised in the footwear which reflects an Oscar Wilde ‘Dorian Grey’ styling of elegant menswear. The kilt adds a touch of modernity to the range, and I found inspiration from the new dandy’s off my generation which include Kanye West, and the designer brand Givenchy. The gender-fluid trend has become more prevalent and accepted, but I felt that to fit the target customer for the Miss Francesca Couture brand I as the buyer had to create a juxtaposition with the use of a strong material like leather
for the kilt.
I believe this range could be successful, as it fits with the other ranges that I have created for the MFC brand. However, as this is the debut menswear collection I as the buyer made the decision to create a smaller range. If this range does become a raving success then there will be more profit than cost, and therefore more of an opportunity to create another collection for the next season.
References (1)Martin Hickman, C. (2010). Retail giants shamed by UK sweatshops. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/retail-giants-shamed-by-uk-sweatshops-2128022.html [Accessed 3 Feb. 2016].
(2a) Tom Ford, A/W 2015/16
Task 8: Range Building for Miss Francesca Couture
ROCK S TA R
MINI
PRIN
P L AY F U L
STYLISH SIBLINGS
A/W 2016/17
MISS FRANCESCA COUTURE Lounge Suit: £65 100% Jersey Cotton. (COO: UK)
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 BOYS
RANGE White Shirt: £35, 100% Cotton.
Grey Shirt: £35, 100% Cotton. (COO: UK)
Black Tee: £25, 100% Jersey. Green Tee: £25, 100% Jersey (COO: UK)
Spiked Leather Jacket: £85, 90% Leather, 10% Silk. (COO: UK)
Printed Blazer: £55, 90% Woven Silk, 10% Silk. (COO: UK)
Printed Trouser: £45, 100% Cotton (COO: UK)
Printed Trainer: £105 100% Leather. (COO: UK)
Coloured Trouser: £45, 100% Cotton. (COO: UK)
Contrast Shirt (White): £35, 100% Cotton. (COO: UK) Contrast Shirt (Black): £35, 100% Cotton. (COO: UK)
MISS FRANCESCA COUTURE AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 £25 Jersey Top: 90% cotton, 10% Silk (COO: UK)
Purple Dress: £45, 100% Jersey Cotton.
GIRLS
White Dress: £45 100% Jersey Cotton. (COO: UK)
Blue Dress: £55, 90% Cotton, 10% Silk (COO: UK) Purple Dress: £55. 90% Cotton, 10% silk.
£15 Cross Body Bag: 95% Leather 5% Metal (COO: UK)
£85 Boot, 85% Leather, 10% Acrylic, 5% Cotton (COO: UK)
RANGE
Purple Jumper: £75, 100% Wool. Silver Jumper: £75, 100% Wool (COO: UK)
Orange Wrap Blouse: £35, 100% Silk. Pink Wrap Blouse: £35, 100% Silk (COO: UK))
Coloured Shirt: £25, 95% Cotton, 5% Silk (COO: UK)
Green Dress: £65, 90% Cotton. Lining: 10% Silk. (COO: UK)
£85 Boot, 85% Leather, 10% Glitter, 5% Cotton. (COO: UK)
Black Dress: £65, 90% Cotton. Lining: 10% Silk. (COO: UK)
Green Ruffle Skirt: £35, 100% Jersey Cotton. (COO: UK) Purple Ruffle Skirt: £35, 10% Jersey Cotton. (COO: UK)
Skater Skirt: £35, 95% Jersey Cotton, 5% Elastane. (COO: UK)
Faux Fur Cardigan: £55, 100% Faux Fur. (COO: UK)
Task 17: Kidswear Range Critical Analysis The kidswear range is a designer range that will be designer in house by the design team, and as the buyer I chose the products that will be manufactured and placed in store and online.
The profile for the kidswear range will be the same profiles that will be used for the menswear and womenswear ranges, as they will be the target customers buying the product for their children. I believe that this range is consistent with the target market, as competitor boutiques like Kids Cavern are seen as a popular destination for stylish young families to find outfits for their children. However, Miss Francesca Couture provides a high end service that other competitors may not be able to provide; for example tailoring, distinctive designs for children, and non-branded outfits that make them covetable for families who wish to have their children stand out from the crowd at parties, and special occasions. The pricing is relatively cheaper than the other two ranges, but this is because the materials used are the same materials being used for the other two ranges, and the sizes available are smaller. Also, there are more colour ways than the other ranges, making it easier for one design to be produced at a faster rate with the only difference being a colour or patterned trim. The quality of the fabric will be equal to that of the other two ranges due to the same materials being used throughout the three ranges. I will attend trade shows within the UK to source the manufacturing methods and materials.
The concept boards for kidswear was a ‘mini me’ theme, which I believe I have succeeded in completing during the creation of this range. The kidswear pieces may not be direct versions of the menswear and womenswear ranges, but they showcase similar trends and shapes making it distinct from the competition. The main trend that is seen throughout the kidswear collection is the ‘70’s kitsch’ trend that was seen at Gucci, and Fendi. During the kidswear trend research I found that primary colours were one of the key colour trends, so I decided as the buyer that this would be the most suitable trend to use during the boys and girls ranges.
Initially I found it difficult to curate outfits, but throughout the exercise of building the boys and girls ranges I overcame that problem with the inclusion of childrenswear staples, such as trousers and shirts for boys along with lounge suits, and skirts and top for girls along with dresses. Another issue was the pricing, but this I overcame by utilising the colour ways and making it easier to order designs in bulk and therefore reducing the overall cost of the production. I had a lot of fun on photoshop with the colour blocking and mixing of the patterns; the theme truly came to the surface with the colour and patterns that I sourced from the trend research.
I have chosen to source the materials and the production from within the UK along with the men's and women's ranges. This is so that as the buyer I can audit the factories regularly, and check the quality of the
product regularly. Not only will this prevent delays in order due to miscommunication, but also give the range another marketing strategy that can be used to entice new customers, since ‘Made in the UK’ will be used on the labels and with the marketing. This also makes it acceptable to increase the prices of the clothing, as MFC will be seen as more ethically conscious than its competitors.
The three key pieces within the girls range are the three styles of dresses. They reflect the theme of the collection, and the MFC brand with the use of patterns and colour that are on-trend for the upcoming season. The three key pieces within the boys range include the floral separate pieces that can be mixed and matched with the lighter pieces like the trousers or the shirts. This makes the outfits more versatile for the parent, and more comfortable for the child.
I believe that I have been successful in curating the boys and girls range for MFC, as I believe I have stuck to the concept and kept the children’s best interests whilst building this range. If I could change one thing it could be the amount of options that are included in the boyswear range, but as both menswear and boyswear are debuting in the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2016 season, I felt it could be foolish to introduce so much and find that the predominately female customer would overlook it. If the boyswear range was to be as successful as I predict the girlswear range to be, then there could be more pieces introduced in the 2017 season.
The tradeshows I would visit in the UK would include BUBBLE in London, as this will provide me with ideas for sourcing and a place to build contacts where I can negotiate with UK suppliers, and find out that best manufactures for kidswear within the UK.
UNIQUE
TREND SETTER
RICH COLOUR
LUXE
MISS FRANCESCA COUTURE
Puffa Crop Jacket:£195 100% Leather (COO: UK)
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016
Flared Trouser: £65, 100% Jersey Cotton, (COO: UK)
WOMENS RANGE
Lace Short Suit: £150, 45% Lace, 45% Cotton, 10% Silk. (COO: UK)
Pointed Heel: £125 50% Faux Fur, 45% Leather, 5% Cotton. Sole: 100% PU Block Heel: £125 75% Velvet, 25% Plastic. Sole: 100% PU (COO: UK)
Flared Coat: £295, 90% Cashmere, 5% Acrylic, 5% Metal (COO: UK)
Kimono Jacket: £55 90% Jersey Cotton, 10% Silk (COO: UK)
Beret: £35, 100% Wool. (COO: UK)
Pant Suit: £175 96% Cotton, 3% Elastane, 1% Metal. (COO: UK)
Blue Shirt: £25, 100% Cotton.
Box Bag: £65, 85% Leather, 15% Metal (COO: UK)
Purple/Orange Wrap Skirt: £45, 100% Jersey Knit, Lining: 100% Silk (COO: UK)
Purple Shirt: £25, 100% Cotton (COO: UK) Trapeze Dress: £190, 100% Silk (COO: UK)
White Pussy Bow: £45, 100% Silk
Purple Pussy Bow: £45, 100% SIlk (COO: UK)
Gloves:£35, 90% Suede, 10% Faux Fur. (COO: UK)
Purple V-Neck: £35, 100% Jersey Knit Teal V-Neck: £35, 100% Jersey Knit (COO: UK)
Evening Gown: £270, 50% Jersey, 40% Silk, 10% Lace (COO: UK)
Evening Gown: £270, 100% SIlk (COO: UK)
Flared Jumpsuit: £220, 95% Jersey, 5% Metal (COO: UK)
Task 17: Womenswear Range Critical Analysis
The womenswear range will consist of designs that the MFC team will have created, and as the buyer I will bring in the products that I believe reflect the Miss Francesca Couture customer. Through the competitive shop and direct shop that I have conducted I believe that this range should be placed at the higher end of the market, as the customer that MFC
Dolce and Gabbana, Fall 2016
already has, shops at designer boutiques and could be looking for something more unique and with a higher quality. As the products will be manufactured in the UK, this gives the Miss Francesca Couture women's range an edge over its competitors in regards to quality of materials. By having the sourcing in the UK, it allows the pricing to be higher than its competitors, whilst still making it attractive to the new consumer as the use of ethical sourcing has been thought about and included in the range. It would detrimental to have a range of ready to wear clothing sourced from Asia, where there is a high risk of mistreatment in the workplace where the products would be produced, whilst also having the MFC bespoke service making dresses on site with higher quality materials. Therefore, I believe it is the best option to price the products higher, and source within the UK.
Using the online website that is already in place for the current ready to wear collection, it would make it easier to attract a broader range of customer worldwide. Compared to MFC competitors, like House of Celeb Boutique, the products are not overpriced due to the fact they are not made cheaply. The pricing of the MFC womenswear range allows for a greater
profit margin, even though the pricing is relatively higher than its competitors. However, through market research I hope to find that there is a niche in the market for on trend and innovative designed clothing made in the UK.
I believe that the range fits with the concept board that I created. There is glamour, style, and texture, throughout the range. Not only does it like stark next to similar products on the high street, it represents the MFC brand exceedingly well against the expectations that I initially had when I began this project. Not only does it fit with the current products on sale, there are trends that can be picked from this range and compared with the catwalk also, with designers like Gucci, and Dolce and Gabbana. The use of 1970’s kitsch, which I found through my trend research was again a major trend for the Autumn/Winter 2016 season, has been utilised with colour-blocking, and the use of patterns. Also, the shapes that I have chosen to use in this range reflect the 1970’s trend, with a mix of modernity with the different colour ways that I have chosen.
A problem that I have foreseen is with the sourcing of the materials. All of this range is to be produced in the UK, but there are techniques that I have included in this range that I believe could be difficult to replicate within the small net of manufacturers that are located in the UK. To overcome this I must conduct in depth research about UK manufacturing, and I may have to conduct focused sourcing to reach the deadline for this range.
With each range I must also attend tradeshows within the UK, which is easier for me as a buyer for an independent brand as I can communicate more clearly what I need as the buyer, and be able to visit the manufacturers regularly to see which one fits the brands needs. I also want there to be a focus on higher quality materials, and I believe I may not find that with a foreign supplier.
I believe that this range is successful, as it reflects the major themes that I have shown in the other two ranges. Also, I believe that the womenswear range has been my most successful range planning exercise, due to the fact I have included more colourways, thus adding versatility to the range, but also the fact I have stuck with the concept board and the theme that has been consistent with all three ranges.
The tradeshows that I would attend within the UK include, Moda Footwear in Birmingham to source the leather for the footwear, and I would also go to YARN as this tradeshow will have a vast selection of fabric that I would need as the buyer to build the range. I could also visit the London Textile Fair.
The Photoshop skills I have learnt include layering CADs and including more colourways, this is the same technique that I have used throughout all the three ranges.
Gucci, Pre-Fall 2016
Task 18: Miss Francesca Couture Buying Cycle
Monitoring Deliveries Monitoring deliveries is integral to the success of the three ranges. As this is the debut collections for men’s, women’s and kid’s, there is significant time and money spent on promoting the brand online and through social media and traditional media. Therefore, any delays could lose customers and profits margins would decrease which for a small independent retailer could be detrimental to MFC lifespan.
Order Processing and Confirmation Confirming order dates, delivery dates, and audit dates by the buyer so that the supply chain is not interrupted due to any external factors such as economic downfall, increase in VAT, or any climate change that could cause a decrease or increase in the quantity of the orders. As this is an independent retailer, it is important to chase up delivery dates especially as online orders could increase and availability of products needs to be assured by the buyer and merchandiser.
Retail Selling Period MFC has had extensive retail selling periods for their previous women’s range. As this is an independent retailer, it is possible to extend the retail selling period until the stock is sold, so there is no risk of stock loss and ultimately profit loss. Therefore, the retail selling period for the three ranges would be from beginning of September to March. This seems long, but the in climate weather leading to Spring could increase footfall and profits.
Monitoring Sales Monitoring sales figures in case there needs to be another order from the supplier in line with the replenishment agreement.
Review Sales Performance Planning The Budget
Review previous sales performances: How well we did, and compare foot fall into the store and web traffic online to collate data to compare different fiscal years.
How much money will the budget allow; three ranges of high quality products would need in excess of hundreds of thousands of pounds.
Price Negotiation/Setting RRP Negotiating price with suppliers based in the UK, making trips to check on the quality of their manufacturing process, and that there aren’t any health and safety issues that are raised, or ethical concerns in regards to the work environment. Once the RRP is known by the MFC buyer, there can be negotiations with the supplier in regards to cost price, quantity, and opportunity for replenishment.
Range Selection Choosing the range based on market research, past performance for the previous season, and looking at street wear and catwalk influence. As an independent retailer, it is important to choose the key trends of the season, and follow what the street style is around the globe as the online store will be shipping worldwide.
Planning Buying Schedules/Trips Look at trends, forecast for the next year. Key shapes, celebrity influences, and trade show visits to understand the market and negotiate pricing for materials from UK manufacturers at YARN and London Textile Fair
Task 18: Miss Francesca Couture Buying Cycle Review Season Performance Reviewing the previous seasons performance is important for Miss Francesca Couture, as it is an independent retailer they must ensure they minimise risk with what they plan for future ranges. Even though there may be a trend that is easy to adapt into the Miss Francesca Couture brand, as the buyer I cannot put all my eggs in one basket. I must be aware of the fluctuation in the economy in regards to VAT changes, or the new law that causes all retailers to charge for their bags. This can all be external factors that can affect the profit margins for the new season. Moreover, the styles could change, and trends that I may have forecast as key trends for the new season could be overtaken by a new trend that is born from social media or a red carpet moment with a celebrity, and even street style trends that could become popular. There is no constants when it comes to predicting the future in fashion, and therefore internal and external factors must be taken into account when reviewing the previous season performance before any new deals, and new ranges, are brought into affect.
Planning The Budget Planning the budget is the biggest concern for me as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture, because of the high cost of materials and production I have made the decision as the buyer to source the same fabric for each of the three ranges. This is because it is cheaper as an independent retailer to invest in bulk volume of fabric, and not have extra niggling costs for smaller quantities of fabric that will more often than not be unused if it is not utilised in the other ranges. This method prevents stock lost, and prevents any variation in profit margins between the three ranges, as the cost of materials should be relatively equal. To also cut down on cost, as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I would seek to source manufacturing from within the UK as it is easier to visit the factories, communicate with the supply manager, and also check the quality of the products. Having the products for each range produced in the UK may cut down import and export costs, and also logistical costs in transporting across the continents. An advantage of using an UK supplier is the fact that Miss Francesca Couture can legitimately use a ‘Made In Britain’ tag line, which could allow the price of the three ranges to be increased and therefore increase the profit margins, as not only does this tag line give the customer knowledge about the quality of the product, but it also could open up doors for media representation in regards to positive PR about the ranges having been made within the UK and therefore boosting the UK economy. As the buyer I would want the range to appeal to the Miss Francesca Couture customer who is aware of designer brands, and aware of the cost of high quality products, and by having the range sourced in the UK with high quality products it increases the transparency with the customer, and increases their awareness of the brand and can entice them to spend a little extra for a better quality product.
Planning and Buying Schedules and Trips Not only does sourcing within the UK equate to cheaper outgoing costs, it also helps during the planning and buying schedules of the buyer. I could find it difficult as the buyer for an independent retailer to fly across the world to source materials, check on the welfare of the employees in the factories, and also check on the quality of the products that will represent the brand to a whole new audience. Therefore it is easier to visit tradeshows in the UK, and make contacts with UK based suppliers to makes sure as the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I do not encounter any issues like this. There has been cases of issues with factories abroad used by retailers who use slave labour, and even refugees. An example of this has been the ramifications recently caused by the Syrian war, where hundreds of children have been left without families. An investigation into a Turkish supplier of goods to brands such as Next and H&M,
found that young Syrian children were being used as slave labour by the managers of these factories. Next has had to come out and take responsibility for not fully understanding what was going on in the Turkish factory, and has since had to help the children receive education and live a more stable life away from the abusive work environment. (Yahoo, February 2016). As a small independent company, there could be no funds available to implement any policies that could help those children. In fact, it could cause the independent to lose the trust of the customer, and ultimately it could go into administration. The trade shows that I would attend as the buyer would be the London Textile Fair for all the fabrics, and I would also attend BUBBLE trade show in the UK for fabrics and to see what the childrenswear trends are as well as looking at the catwalks.
References Yahoo News, (2016). Syrian child labour found in Turkey clothes factories: charity. [online] Available at: http://news.yahoo.com/syrian-child-labour-found-turkey-clothes-factories-charity-214651288.html [Accessed 4 Feb. 2016].
Task 18: Miss Francesca Couture Buying Cycle Range Selection Selecting the range is the most creative part of the buying cycle, but it also requires an understanding of the Miss Francesca Couture customer as well as the new customer that is being brought in. For example, it is important to trend forecast through street style, magazines, catwalk shows, and looking back at previous trends for the previous seasons. Miss Francesca Couture has in the past sold mainly party and occasion wear; they have extended this to their bespoke service where bridesmaids dresses, wedding dresses, and outfits for all ages have been commission through this service. Therefore I understand as the buyer that there has to be a main thread of formal and evening wear through all the ranges. However, the niche in the market for this brand to compete with the retailers who have strong roots in the industry include bringing more casual pieces into the three ranges. Not only will this add depth to the ranges without expensing money from the budget, it gives the customer versatility and opportunity to buy more than one piece at a time when they visit the shop in person or online. As the buyer I have to make stark choices between short term trends and long term trends, this is why it is important to look back at the previous trends as they could pop up in the new season again. This method of trend forecasting prevents undue risk taking by me as the buyer by not bringing in products that have not been tested on the market before, and therefore profit projection could be more astute.
Price Negotiation and Setting Retail Price
It is important to go into a negotiation with the supplier with an idea of the price that I as the buyer would want to sell the products in the range at. Not only does this prevent any mistakes being made in regards to too much stock being ordered, or too little, it is best to go into a meeting confident in all the facts and figures so the supplier does not short change the brand. As Miss Francesca Couture is an independent retailer every form of contact has to be professional, as there might not be any history between the supplier and the brand. It is important that the supplier respects the company, and does not take advantage. As the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I will be sourcing materials and production methods from within the UK for all the ranges. I will use focused sourcing, placing different order with different suppliers as different methods are needed for different products i.e, leather manufacturers, wool manufacturers, and other textile materials manufacturers. I also think it could prevent any external factors affecting the supply chain, such as the supplier losing their business, or they took too many order on and have to delay the delivery deadline for Miss Francesca Couture. Once the cost price is understood, and the contract is signed, then Miss Francesca Couture can start creating the financial spreadsheets, and calculate the gross profit projections and the expected margins. Also, the marketing campaigns can begin as well as the ordering of POS for around the store.
Order Processing and Confirmation Once the orders have been made, they are processed by the supplier and a deadline is decided for the delivery of the goods to the warehouse, and then to the store. Miss Francesca Couture has their deliveries delivered to the store in the MET Quarter. Due to the high quality of the products and the RRP it is important for the supplier to note how the products should be delivered. The clothes should be delivered in boxes to the warehouse, and then the warehouse must hang the clothes and cover them with a protective bag, and then send them to the store, or send them to the customer if they have ordered the clothes directly from the website. Not only does this prevent damage to the item, but it preserves the quality and shows the customer that there is a care and attentiveness shown to the clothes by the brand. There could be external factors and internal factors that could delay to processing of the orders, such as bad weather during winter causing transportation by road to be delayed due to icy conditions. As this is the debut of three ranges that have a greater depth than the previous womenswear range that MFC has had, it is important that there are no hold ups with the online delivery service. Therefore, the warehouse must keep track of every order, and make sure they give their employees enough time to process each order and send it off within the time frame provided online. Any delays could hinder the growth of the company globally.
HSE (health and safety executive) writes on their guidance for industrial workers in the UK that the main causes of injury the leather and footwear sector of UK manufacturing include handling and sprains, slips and trips, and contact with machinery. When conducting audits of the suppliers that Miss Francesca Couture use, it is important to note if there have been any accidents within the workplace and if this is occurs frequently or occasionally. The government website has a list of approved manufacturers within the UK, this allows me as the buyer to find out whether or not a supplier will provide a safe environment for its workers and follows EU and UK regulations. In regards to manufacturing of the clothing, there are regulations that must be followed In regards to industrial sewing machines for example HSE writes in their guidance about machinery risk ‘Make sure that robust needle guards fitted and used…carry out a risk assessment on the provision of eye guards…check that lighting is adequate and stays on when the motor is switched off…’ etc. (HSE, date unknown) This information can be used to help me as the buyer make an informed decision about which suppliers I could use. There was an incident in 2014 where a man in working for a manufacturer in Rochdale fell into a vat of bleach and suffered sever chemical burns as he tried to free a piece of cloth that had become stuck in a mangle (HSE, November 2014). This type of incident can become common if the correct procedures are not followed, therefore as the buyer it is important for me to cut ties with suppliers who do not show that they care or affected by the risks within their business. References Gov.uk, (2014). Approved manufacturers: conformity assessment - Detailed guidance - GOV.UK. [online] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/approved-manufacturers-conformity-assessment [Accessed 4 Feb. 2016]. Hse.gov.uk, (2016). Textiles - British Standards. [online] Available at: http://www.hse.gov.uk/textiles/british-standards.htm [Accessed 4 Feb. 2016]. Hse.gov.uk, (2016). Textiles - Machinery risks: Fabric-cutting machinery. [online] Available at: http://www.hse.gov.uk/textiles/machinery/cutting.htm [Accessed 4 Feb. 2016]. Press.hse.gov.uk, (2016). Rochdale company in court over worker’s severe chemical burns | Media centre - HSE. [online] Available at: http://press.hse.gov.uk/2014/rochdale-company-in-court-over-workers-severe-chemical-burns/ [Accessed 4 Feb. 2016].
Task 18: Miss Francesca Couture Buying Cycle Monitoring Deliveries All deliveries must arrive at the same time to all the stores, if Miss Francesca Couture was to open a second in another city this would be important to note. As the online
business will expand along with the debut of the three ranges, it is important that there is a wide range of sizes available online at any given time so that the customer does not exit the website empty handed. This is also the case for the store also, if there is any issue with deliveries that could delay the launch in store, it could lead to a loss of up to ÂŁ10,000 as an estimate which could prevent ordering of replenishments and could affect the profit margin.
Retail Selling Period The retail selling period for Miss Francesca Couture could be longer than a non-independent store. This is because there may not be such a quick turnover in stock with
every season, therefore it is plausible to keep the ranges on sale until the stock is at the bare minimum and this could be from the date it is sold at the end of August to the beginning of March. It may not be realistic for an independent retailer to get rid of its stock with as much haste as a fast fashion retailer, as it increases profit loss and decreases the profit margin and can ultimately waste a huge amount of money that could affect the retailer extensively.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“The company will need a revised business plan outlining targets, projections, short, mid and long term aims.” Why is it important? It is important for the company to have a business plan outlining their targets so that the whole company understands which is excepted of them in regards to financial projections and short, mid, and long term goals. For example a short term goal could be that the company makes a profit from the new range, the mid term goal could be that the success of the range brings in new customers and creates loyal customers and a new range could be introduced in the next season with more money available to spend. The first year of launching a product could include a profit target that has to be met, the success of the advertising campaign, and the amount of customer footfall into the store and online traffic. The projection of the success of the range, and how it will be launched. It could be launched separately to minimise risk of not reaching selling targets with each store, and to ‘test the waters’ in case the projection of customer behaviour was not correct and changes due to external factors like the weather, or political factors like an increase in VAT. The business plan could include targets for the company as a whole, in regards to increasing exposure in other economical climates; for instance, the USA and Asia. Global strategies are included in the business plan, and this could be a long term goal for the company overall when introducing a brand new range. The range must meet the target market, and the customer profile. Both should represent the global customer. Effect on the Consumer Projections and business plans have affects on the consumer, as they must fulfil the needs of the consumer. This includes making sure that various sizes are available to the customer at any given time in every store. To make sure this is followed through, the merchandiser must produce an in-depth report from the data collated with each transaction in each store to make sure that there is a consistent replenishment of products to satisfy customer demand. The cost of producing the products that is discussed during the financial planning affects the RRP that the buyers set for the products within the range, therefore this could affect the consumer if it is priced above their budget and therefore it can cause customers to not shop at that brand, and the range launch would be unsuccessful. Is it an organisational or production requirement, or both? This is an organisational requirement as it involves the business planning and projection that occurs within the buying and merchandising departments inside head office. It does not involve the suppliers as of yet.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement “The company will require staff who have the correct skills and abilities to fulfil the job role.� Why is it important? Effects on the company and consumer? Hiring the best prospective employees throughout the entire organisation will give the company an edge over its competitors, as they will be able to effectively sell products throughout the different lines to the customer within the store if they are a sales assistant, and be able to create a product that is needed by the consumer if they are within the head office. Having a good reputation as a company for the staff will give them respect by the customers and by prospective employees in the future. If good training is offered there is a increase in skills development, and
therefore an increase in movement within the company, and prevents loss of talent that would otherwise grow within the company in a store role or a head office role. For example, a customer can sell a product better and have a higher rate of success if they understand what they are selling, so the customer can feel comfortable and trusts the employee in what they say. If the employee has had no training or not enough training, it can be difficult to maximise sales within the store because that employee cannot successful increase the profits within the customers basket. This could cause the store to lose money, and it could close due to lack of sales and this could be a loss for a company as well as the consumer. It may be a requirement to refresh the buying and design team within the head office environment to bring in a new approach to increase the profit of the store and to compete with other brands that could be more successful in translating catwalk trends onto the high street. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is an organisational requirement, as they must hire the right people for the head office roles of the buyer, merchandiser, and designer, to be successful when creating a range, developing the store, and training the employees within the store. If the employees do not have the correct skills it could be detrimental to the company as it can reflect badly in the press if there is an incident of poor customer service in the store due to lack of training, or poor performance financially if the buying team do not have the skills to make decisions on behalf of the company in regards to missing out on trends, not researching the market thoroughly and not understanding the customer that they are trying to sell their products to.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement “There is an internal personal policy put in place. (Recruitment, introduction, training)� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? Internal policy is an organisational requirement, as the company must provide adequate training when hiring new staff. For instance, they must be trained about ethical issues such as discrimination; race, disability, gender, sexual orientation, ethical concerns in regards to production of products. This is so that there are no internal problems that occur within the staff structure such as bullying, discrimination, or lack of awareness about the companies policies that are widely available on their website. Understand where fire exits are within store is vital to save lives if there was an incident, so that the employees are protected and are aware of where to go and what to do in case of a fire. Moreover, the training could include developments that are occurring within the company such as a change in management roles, position within the market, and introduction of new lines or ranges before each season. Not only will this give staff an increase in confidence about the brand, it will help them to care about what they are selling to the customer. Self-development may include giving buyers within head office more freedom with their decision making, and for sales assistant within store they could be given more responsibilities in regards to on the job training within visual merchandising, and customer service. However, recruitment, introduction and training, is affected by the budget provided to each department within head office and how much money is bestowed to the managers within each individual store. Lack of money could cause buyers to miss out on trends due to lack of funds, and cause them to not make as many visits to suppliers and therefore miss out on opportunities to audit factories in other countries with accidents more plausible such as factory fires or toxic disturbance within the community. Also, lack of a budget within the store could increase cases of bad customer service, which could intern cause customers to not shop there due to bad reviews and bad press about that store. Also, lack of training could cause mistakes to be made within store that could increase external theft and internal theft. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is both an organisational and production requirement. It is an organisational requirement because it is important that there is training throughout the whole infrastructure of the company to increase the growth of profits with staff understanding the products more, and new recruits understanding the company manifesto and what is expected of them. Also, buyers and merchandisers must be aware of cost of production and how to use the internal systems to prevent delays in the supply chain. It is a production requirement because the supplier must abide by the company policies and be aware of the ethical concerns that company has with how they treat their employees and how they protect the environment by safely excreting toxics in a safe area away from local communities, and harvest materials in an eco-friendly manner. For example, there was another fire inside a clothing factory in Bangladesh, (Refinery 29, February 2016). Luckily the fire occurred at 7am when not all of the workers were inside the building, but those inside had injuries. This is another fire that has occurred within a clothing factory in Bangladesh, and even though initiatives like Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety based in the US exists to prevent accidents like this occurring since the Rana Plaza fire, the occurrence is still happening.
References Refinery29, (2016). Huge Fire At Bangladesh Factory Today Shows Safety Measures Still Need Major Improvements. [online] Available at: http://www.refinery29.uk/2016/02/102470/bangladesh-sweater-factoryfire?utm_r29_redirect=us [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“The company will need to ensure it can meet production goals and Health and Safety requirements.” Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? Health and Safety within the production of the product is integral as it not only affects the employees within the factories, but also the customer. It affects the employees in the factories if there are chemical fumes that are produced with the production methods used during dying, sandblasting, and creation of footwear made from rubber etc. Also, it is important that employees within the factories are aware of fire exits if there is an accident within the factory. The supplier has the duty to do this to prevent loss of life, and an accident similar to the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh that killed over 1,000 people. It could affect the consumer if the EU regulations and the regulations of the country of origin are not adhered to if fabrics are not quality tested, i.e flammable materials used within the childrenswear range, and other ranges. If there are any accidents that could have been prevented during the production of the products it could cause the press to investigate the company, and highlight issues in regards to health and safety that could cause public opinion to change and profits to fall. An example of this is included in a ‘Retail Week’ article from January 2016: ‘…New Health and Safety laws coming into effect on February 1st will impose tougher penalties on businesses that fall foul of their responsibilities regarding customer safety. A serious breach could cost a company up to £10million in fines…’ The article highlights the Hugo Boss incident from 2014 where a boy was crushed by a falling mirror within the store, the regulator began looking at ‘new guidelines’ when it fined that company £1.2 million following the death of the four year old boy. Retail Week includes a quote from Shoesmith, ‘Retailers should take the opportunity to review Health and Safety practices and to ensure they are doing all they can to negate or at least minimise risks to the staff and customers.’ This development could imply that until that incident there was not a lot of Health and Safety concerns within the retail industry, and there could have been a lack of attention by regulators in regards to in store safety. (Retail Week, January 2016). A case of lack of Health and Safety within the production part of the buying cycle was brought to light in an article in The Gazzette Live, that spoke of an accident occurring in a Poundland factory in Middlesbrough. A woman had her arm trapped inside a piece of machinery, and the case is ongoing to determine the liability of Poundworld for the Health and Safety oversight. (Gazette Live, January 2016) There could also be fines incurred by the company if the do not follow the regulations within the country of origin and the country that it is based within. For a small company this could cause them to go into administration, and for a big company it could affect public opinion and ultimately loss of profits. The company is liable for all incidents that could occur in production. They could lose their customers to their competitors as products are not fit for purpose.
Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? It is both the responsibilities of the organisation and the supplier who is charged with the production of the products. Both of them have to adhere to regulations set by their respected governments, as well as organisations that are involved in workers rights. It is important because both the organisation and the suppliers are responsible for the work environment and protecting their employees from dangerous situations and loss of life due to poor conditions. If they do not meet the production goals in regards to Health and Safety then the company could incur fines and be prevented from working within certain countries, and vice versa.
References Retail Week, (2016). Retail surgery: Health and safety rules overhauled for retailers. [online] Available at: http://www.retailweek.com/analysis/retail-surgery/retail-surgery-health-and-safety-rules-overhauled-for-retailers/7004358.fullarticle [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016]. Sampson, L. (2016). Poundworld due in court after worker's arm got trapped in machine. [online] gazettelive. Available at: http://www.gazettelive.co.uk/news/teesside-news/poundworld-due-court-after-workers-10798053 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement “The company will need a fully developed marketing plan.�
Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is an organisational requirement to have a full developed marketing plan. This is because the range needs to be promoted and reach the target audience through different ways. For example, if the company is aiming to bring in a younger customer they may decide to pay for a thirty second television advert during X Factor. They may have a celebrity to endorse the range which could cause customers to react positively and trust the brand due to the celebrity that is endorsing the brand; however, a negative affect could be that the celebrity may not be liked overall. For instance, Abbey Clancy has a range with Matalan that is targeted towards a younger customer, however the loyal customers are left in the dark if they do not like that celebrity. It is important to advertise in the correct magazines such as Vogue if the brand is wanting to gain a fashion forward crowd, or a weekly magazine like Hello is they want to bring in a middle aged mother etc. There are legal requirements that all brands within the UK has to adhere to such as no violence, no sex, before the 9pm watershed. This could have a negative affect as the target customer may not see the advert as it was meant to be viewed. Marketing can expand the brand identity around the world, with the use of social media, or adverts on billboards or in magazines. However, as seen with Mango recently, the use of cultural appropriation in advertising of new ranges is lambasted by social media as soon as the images appear online, (Huffington Post, January 2016). Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? It is an organisational requirement to monitor the effect and the issues that may arise with the marketing plan. It is important that all the stores receive the correct POS and put the POS up on products at the same time as other stores. This prevents customers becoming confused, and products being sold at the wrong time as this could incur a penalty.
References The Huffington Post UK, (2016). Kendall Jenner's Mango Campaign Accused Of Cultural Appropriation. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2016/01/15/kendall-jenner-mango-culturalappropriation_n_8987738.html [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“The Company will need equipped offices or premises in the correct locations.� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? Location of the distribution centres is important as they must be able to transport the products to the store at the same time without any delays that could affect customer service. Some retailers will have their distribution centres in places such as Jersey because there is no tax in that country and therefore saves the company money. Another location issues could be demographics, for example; Bold Street in Liverpool will not be a viable location for Apple as the surrounding shops are alternative and there are not enough foot fall in the street to help the store reach its sales targets. Demographics also affect pricing, as a store that is in a small town of 2,000 people in Alderley Edge in Cheshire can sell its products at a high end price due to the median income of the people who live in the surrounding area. Having the correct equipment in the head offices is also important. Photoshop would be a necessity on all the computers for the buying team to plan a range with CADs and source the correct patterns and fabrics for those CADs. Also, Excel would be a necessity also for both buying and merchandising departments in order to create a sophisticated data portfolio of past best sellers, and replenishment requirements that can be forwarded to stores and to other staff members within the head office environment. In head office there needs to be a room for photo-shoots to update the online store with the correct products, a fabric archive that can safely store and protect thousands of fabrics for re-use during board meetings, and range selection. Within the store there needs to be an adequate amount of tills so that customers can be served without a long wait. For example, in Matalan Williamson Square when it first opened they had eight tills that when all of them were manned at the same time was still not shortening the queue. Therefore a decision was made internally by head office to have two more tills installed to relieve the flow of customers at its busiest times of the year. This not only satisfies the managers as they will not feel strained, but also the customers who no longer have to wait a long time. Other equipment that is necessary includes HCT machines that are used in store to check the price of products before a sale begins so POS is correct and the price. Also, audits are randomly required within store to send information to head office through the main computer in the managers office so that head office can collate data including the current selling price of products in case the price has changed and needs to be updated in store. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a requirement of the organisation, as they are responsible for buying the unit where the store will be based and they must source the correct location for the store according to their customer profile. It is important for the head office to provide each store with the correct number of technological equipment used by all staff members to make sure the store’s are all in line with each other, and that they are balanced.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“The company will need experienced and reliable distributors.” Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is important that deliveries to and from the distribution centre are on schedule so that ranges can be launched at the same time in every store, and also online. It is important that shipping companies that are used are reliable and the company has a good relationship with them. The shipping company must have a good reputation with customer service and deliver products to customers on time. Sometimes transfers need to be conducted between stores if there is an unusual amount of products being sold in one store over another. This way it is quicker to relieve the pressure on the struggling store and keep up with consumer demand without incurring customer service problems. DPD is a company that Matalan uses to conduct transfers between stores during the busiest periods, i.e summer sales and during the Christmas period. If the company does not use a reputable delivery service they could lose out on trends that may come and go, and miss out on launch dates that could affect the companies profits. Sainsbury’s has put in a bid to buy Argos, so they can capitalise on their success in delivering products the same day that they are bought on their website. This is interesting to study as this could be the first time a business merger has occurred because of their logistical prowess as opposed to their customer demographics. Sainsbury’s wants to increase their online customer pool with the introduction of ‘one stop shop’ method of delivery. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a shared requirement, as both the organisation needs to be able to provide an excellent service to their customers and to their store managers, and it is also a production requirement as the production needs to be on time and the supplier managers need to be able to export finished goods before the deadline that that company has provided them with. If neither provides a reliable service it could cause profit loss.
References Mail Online, (2016). Sainsbury's makes £1.3bn bid for Argos-owner Home Retail Group. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/money/markets/article-3427718/Sainsbury-sfinally-agrees-1-3bn-cash-shares-bid-Argos-owner-Home-Retail-ahead-today-s-bid-deadline.html [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“There is a clarity about finances. (Accounting, policy, merchandising, and sales reports).” Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? Finances should be clear that can be interpreted by anybody within the company. A strong accounting team is needed in order to make sure the books are balanced, and there is enough money in the budget to plan a successful range alongside a successful advertising campaign. Merchandisers must understand through the interpretation of data from within the store whether replenishment is required on certain lines. They can project this amount during the financial planning of the range, but trends might fizzle out or take off, and therefore they need to be able to balance the number when it comes to allocating products. It is important that within the store refund policies are followed in every store, but this cannot always be the case. For instance it can be under the manager’s discretion as well as head office customer service discretion whether or not they can approve a refund that does not fit the guidelines. This can be a manufacturing fault, or a hazard that was not found during the quality assurance procedure within the factories and head office. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a requirement of the organisation, as they must be able to provide in depth details of the financial stability of the company to the shareholder if it is a PLC, and floating on the stock market. They must also be able to send information to stores regarding what the best sellers are so they can adequately promote best selling products and merchandisers can allocate more stock to them. If the organisation does not follow their procedures regarding refunds, this can affect customer loyalty as some may hear about ‘good will gestures’ from friends and complain about the lack of honesty and equality in regards to refunds. Also, the organisation can lose customers if they do not have the size availability in each store, this can be caused by the merchandisers not balancing the spreadsheets. This can cause profit loss and customer disinterest.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“There is a communication system- For example, varied language speaking buyers. For example, Skype, telephones, internet, emails.� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? Communication is the responsibility of both the organisation and the supplier. If the buyer cannot speak the language of the supplier then they must have the common sense to hire a translator. For a fast fashion company that has a supplier in India, they must be able to speak to suppliers using Skype as it may not be possible to fly over to the factory as frequently as is required. If you do not communicate effectively you could lose the supplier. It is also important that within the head office they are able to hire multi-lingual staff that can effectively help the customer if they are from another country. The consumer has rights that require they fully understand the policies that the company has, therefore communication is vital. Also, during the field research to evaluate consumer behaviour they must be able to ask the correct questions that will provide the buying team the information they need to plan the range. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a shared requirement because the organisation needs to be able to communicate on a global stage with different customers from different backgrounds. They must provide a customer service through phone and email that the customer can understand, as well as providing a multi-lingual website that is accessible by different people from around the world. If they do not communicate successfully with suppliers, there could be more of a chance for manufacturing faults, and an increase in write-offs within the store due to an increased amount of returns due to faults. The supplier must be able to understand the buyer and what they expect from them, in regards to deadlines, quality of material, and the way the product is packaged before it is imported which could prevent damage and occurring and therefore could prevent increase in cost and loss of profit.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“There should be a clear decision-making structure within the company’s business plan.� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? A clear decision making structure includes numerous meetings with the board and with different departments to make sure that all deadlines are the same, and that the ranges are being built with a consistency that will not confuse the consumer; i.e a theme that clashes with another theme instead of complimenting it. Merchandisers must liaise with buyers in order for the correct budget to be agreed on and the expectation of the launch i.e will the range have a staggered launch, where the best selling products are released first and then new products released shortly afterwards, therefore easing the customer into the new products within the range. Finance managers need to be in constant communication with the buyers and merchandisers before any decisions are made, in case a buyer invests heavily in floral during the winter period because they have conducted trend forecasting, but the financial planner may not believe this will be financially successful for their demographic. These road-blocks are used to prevent the company from investing in high-risk ranges that could affect the companies financial outlook as a whole. By including a structure for decision making it gives each department a safety net that prevents any huge mistakes occurring, and makes sure that the decision making process is smooth, whilst consumer needs are met.
Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is an organisation requirement as well as a production requirement. It is an organisational requirement because it is important for the organisation to give each staff member within each department a senior figure to report to before any decision are made, as they senior staff member will then have to report to a director and then the creative director will be informed before a decision could be signed off and approved. This prevents loss of profit, and makes sure each decision is the right one for the company. In regards to the supplier, it is important that they also have a decision making structure that prevents them from falling behind on deadlines, or cutting costs with production methods and the use of the materials.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“Managerial roles within the organisation should be clear, for example, there are clear moments of evaluation of co-ordination/leadership.�
Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is important that managers understand their position within the work force, so that they can provide a clear introduction to new recruits and they can successfully train new staff with their knowledge of the company manifesto, ethical considerations, customer profile, demographic they are targeting with each range or with a new range etc. They must also understand their positioning within the market; for example is it a fast fashion brand, high end, designer, or branded retailer. In head office it is important for the buyer to understand the roles required for all four of these sub-types of retailer, because they must be able to source the most efficient materials for their ranges, negotiate with suppliers to get the best deal, and provide a range that is suitable for their target demographic. Within the store environment it is important that the manager within the store understands the best selling products, and understand the brand as a whole in regards to their demographic, the products that they sell and the service they should be providing. Not only does the store manager have to understand the data sent to them from head office, they have to be able to interpret it every day and disperse that information during every brief through out the day with different employees. They must be able to prevent stock loss by understanding the best placement of POS and understand the store layout and the customer flow, so that customers can find what they looking for or the store can direct the customer to new lines or best selling ranges. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a requirement of the organisation, as they must be able to delegate roles to managers who have a clear understanding of what is expected of them. If the manager could not successfully break down the data they are given in the morning to the rest of their staff, they could lose out on increasing their profits, and developing their staff to match what the company targets them with. For example, if a secret shopper is sent out from head office that the manager knows nothing about, it is the sales assistant that must convey the information that the manager has told them to the customer regarding product information, launch dates of new ranges, and conveying good customer service that the company policy requires of all of its staff members. Within the head office environment there must be a managerial role that junior buyers and assistant buyers can turn to for help and leadership, without that they may make a mistake and cause an order to be sent to the supplier that is incorrect or they may not have the correct date for deadlines. Also for the production manager, they could micro-manage their staff that could cause illegal measures to come into practice to quicken the production method, and shorten the deadline.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“Fabric testing should be carried out before production.” Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is important for every head office to have quality control and fabric testing. Not only is this useful for the buyer when it comes to deciding on what fabrics they should use, it is helpful for the department managers within the store to convey information to the customer in regards to eco-friendly materials, or warnings about faults within the supply chain that may cause harm to customers. Buyers within head office must be able to quickly reassure or alert the store managers of problems that may have arisen including dangerous chemicals used in the production of clothes, footwear and accessories; for example, Matalan sent out a company wide email in regards to mould found in their clutch bag. This meant that bag had to be recalled to head office for further testing, and was not permitted for sale. An article that I have found in regards to fabric testing included one from EPR Retail News, January 2016; a Danish consumer council tested H&M mittens to assure the public that a dangerous chemical PFCS was not used in the production of their waterproof mittens. In the article it states ‘PFCs are used to achieve a water repellent function but are harmful for the environment and for aquatic organisms. H&M limits the use of chemical that are potentially harmful to the health or the environment with the held of out Chemical Restrictions. To ensure compliance with the we perform regular tests which are carried out in third party laboratories…’ (EPR Retail News, January, 2016) This method of testing fabrics is not only a responsibility of the organisation, but the government and private testing companies are also used to make sure that EU regulations are being adhered to. Not only does fabric testing prevent the use of dangerous chemicals that can affect the health of the workforce within the clothing factories, it prevents any faults occurring when the customer wears or uses the product.
Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is the responsibility of the organisation, as they have to approve the fabrics and method of production before the supplier is even included in negotiations. They are the ones who are held responsible if they do not follow the correct regulations set out by their country of origin, i.e Europe, North America, China etc. There was an incident a few years ago where it was found that under EU regulations children’s Halloween costumes were being categorised as toys as opposed to clothing. A Halloween costume bought by television personality Claudia Winkleman for her daughter caught alight, and she suffered severe burns. It was after this highly publicised event that EU and UK law changed to include children’s Halloween costumes as clothing, therefore it had to undergo the same rigorous testing that all clothing had to undertake before being approved for sale. (Look Magazine, October 2015) References Look, (2015). Claudia Winkleman Speaks Out About Daughter's Accident. [online] Available at: http://www.look.co.uk/news/claudiawinkleman-daughter [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
References Editors, E. (2016). Danish consumer council Tænk test: Only H&M mittens did not contain PFCs. [online] EPR Retail News. Available at: http://eprretailnews.com/2016/01/22/danishconsumer-council-taenk-test-only-hm-mittens-did-not-contain-pfcs-765432123456790/ [Accessed 5 Feb. 2016].
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“All sample garment development is carried out in a centralised product development centre and dedicated sample room.� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is important that the sample garment is manufactured in a controlled environment so that the buyers understand what the finished product will look like, with no variables such as the supplier had the wrong button but used it anyway. It all has to be exact to the specifications that the buyer tells the supplier that produces the prototype. The effects that it could have on the company include the buyers not having a true realisation of what the final product will look like, and therefore not being able to make an informed decision in regards to the methods use to produce the product in a larger volume with a specific supplier. The consumer could be effected if there were not stringent parameters for the production of the prototype, because they might find the final product is not produced at a higher quality and comes with numerous faults that could have been avoided had the supplier used a centralised and dedicated sample room. The consumer might have to return the item, and the customer may not shop at that retailer again due to their experience.
Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a requirement in the production of the product, as a reputable supplier will always have a centralised product development centre and a dedicated sample room. They have this so that they can provide a prototype to a prospective employer or an employer that they already do business with, sot that they can show they follow the correct guidelines in regards to health and safety and numerous regulations that the retailer might have to abide by in their own country, and countries where they sell the garment. They need to be produced in the same centralised centre so that each sample is identical, so the sample can be consistent, and assessed accordingly.
Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures
Requirement
“Technical knowledge and international experience is integral.� Why is it important? Effects on company and consumer? It is important for buyers, designers, merchandisers, and suppliers to all have somewhat of a high level of technical knowledge about fabric composition, health and safety requirements, ethical considerations, and the laws of different governments and the rules of different regulators within the retail industry and that affect the retail industry. International experience will help the buyer form a relationship with supplier and different brands from around the globe if they are a branded buyer. If they have experience working for different companies they may also understand different language and also be able to interpret different consumer behaviours from around the world, that could help them when making buying decisions when it comes to forecasting trends and what key trends will be successful and where they will be successful. Technical knowledge of fabric production and other types of production like embellishment, and where the best countries are for those techniques, will help the buyer understand where they should source their materials, and they could have an upper hand in regards to negotiating due to their knowledge of international markets. The effect that this has on the consumer is that the buyer within the retailer that they buy their clothes from has an in-depth knowledge about what they want to buy, before they know what they want. The buyer has the foresight to interpret what the new trends will be. The buyer can also put the customer first by considering the health and safety of the consumer when they pick out the materials, and the ethical considerations in regards to unlawful work practices within clothing factories etc. They will also be able to understand if the production methods used by suppliers is up to standard because they know what is expected through their knowledge. Is this an organisational or production requirement or both? Why? This is a requirement for both the organisation and the production, as the organisation has to hire the best people for the roles within head office, as they make the decisions about technical aspects of producing the range. It is important that the buyer has international experience in regards to international awareness of consumer behaviour and ethical considerations that could affect how they build a range, and launch a range globally. For the production side of things, it is important that during the production process the supplier can communicate with different brands from different countries, this can be with the help of an interpreter. They must also have technically sound knowledge about the manufacturing of clothing in order for them to adequately produce high quality products for different retailers around the world, and adhere to different ethical practices and guidelines. Not only does this give the supplier and the company trust in one another, it also gives the consumer reason to trust them.
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Task 19: Industry Professional Practices and Procedures Extension
This video of a garment manufacturer in China shows the process of creating jeans on a bulk volume scale, that could be for a large global company. It shows the development in practice and procedures in regards to safety, workers health, and the time it takes to produce the products. For example, the video states that the method of production they use in the factory doubles the production rate from 1x500 jeans per day, to 3x200 jeans per day. There was a short clip showing the previous method; one worker taking a large bundle of jeans and sitting at a small area to sew them by hand and with machinery. In the new method of production, there is a long overhead track that runs the length and width of the factory floor, with each worker given a specific role within the process. Not only does this prevent any health and safety issues arising, it gives each worker a role that they are qualified to do; if they sew exceptionally fast they will be sewing the joins together, the seam, or the pockets, etc. There are seventeen steps in this manufacturing process, which could have taken one person to do by themselves in the past. However, by utilising personal skills that the workers have, it could reduce the amount of faults found on a garment by a customer due to lack of precision, and tiredness of the workers. Quality control and accuracy becomes a lot easier, as with a bulk manufacturer this is important as a company could lose profits if the quality is found to be poor during their audit and inspection, and
this could cause a decrease in profit or if the product deteriorates once worn it could cause dissatisfaction of the customer, increase in returns, and decrease in overall gross profit for that line. With the introduction of new technology it can help a global company increase the quantity of the product, and help them deliver their lines into stores and to customers at a faster rate alongside their fast fashion competitors. References YouTube, (2016). Jeans Production part 2. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRRIAcx7PjE&index=2&list=PL1lfMo9ok3Y5NGZoqAdTzI7vYGuJnhQbS [Accessed 10 Feb. 2016].
References YouTube, (2016). Jeans Production part 1. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P882GO6Q2A [Accessed 10 Feb. 2016].
Task 20: Lead Times and Shipping Costs
Critical Analysis The mathematic equations that I used to find out the quantity of the containers for hanging, and box quantity include finding out the quantity for one product, for example trousers, and then finding out how many could fit into a container, for example for trousers 5000 could fit into a container. The quantity required for trousers is 5060, therefore 5000 would fit into one container and 60 products would fit into 3 boxes. The single price for one container is £1176.21, and the single price for one box is £2.51. I multiplied the cost of one container with the one container I would use to transport 5000 trousers, and then multiplied the cost of three boxes by the cost of one single container. Therefore the cost of one container for trousers
would be £1176.21, and the cost of three boxes for the trousers would be £7.53. The total cost is £1183.74 for the trousers. To conclude, I believe that I found this task easier than I assumed I would due to the past tasks in the previous unit where we had to complete a financial spreadsheet. I found that it was cheaper to use boxes over containers for some of the clothing. Therefore, this task has helped me improve my use of excel and I feel I have more confidence in the merchandising side of this course than I originally did.
Task 20: Critical Path, and Critical Analysis. Miss Francesca Couture is an independent retailer. The critical path has been planned out by me as the buyer for the three new ranges, and I have deduced that it could take 31 weeks. There are lead times within this critical path that are important in the steady production of the three ranges. The first lead time that is critical is the planning. This will take up to 4 weeks as the buyer and merchandiser will discuss the budget allowed for the three new ranges, as this will be the first time that menswear and childrenswear are included in store and on the website. As the buyer for MFC, I will be sourcing the supplier from within the UK, as MFC is known for its bespoke service and high end product. Therefore it would be beneficial for the brand to have the products manufactured within the UK, and it will also be cheaper for me as the buyer to visit the factories along with the QC to make sure that deadlines are met and each lead point is reached. The research will take 2-4 weeks, and this will start in March. Research will include conducting a competitive shop, and reviewing the current customer profile for womenswear and completing two new ones for menswear and for childrenswear. Previous best sellers will be made known to the buying team by the merchandiser, and they will be taken into account when conducting the trend forecasting and the pre-range selection meeting. The design team will liaise with the buying team who will present a mood board and concept board based on the key trends for the autumn/winter season. This is so the design team can focus on what the MFC customer will most likely wear, and how to fit the key trends into the new ranges with the help of CAD’s and illustration along with technical fit drawings. These drawings will be sent to suppliers in order to find the cost price, and time it would take, to produce the prototype in a controlled environment. The time it will take to produce the prototype will be up to 2 weeks as several suppliers will be sent a technical design pack to follow so that MFC can negotiate the best price. There will be a meeting where the range is discussed after the delivery of the prototype, and edits are made to the garments during the fit meetings with the standardised size 12 model for womenswear, and the male model who is a size 42. The childrenswear clothing will be a standardised fit according to industry guidelines. After the range has been approved by the whole team during a meeting, where the trims and colours are approved by the QC as fit for purpose, the buyer and QC will visit the factories within the UK and negotiations will begin. The merchandisers providing a spreadsheet for the buyer and QC outlining each suppliers cost price and the retail price, and the profit margin. The buyer will make sure the equipment is sound, and the transportation is available for the factories to deliver the products to the warehouse in Liverpool. They are given a deadline of 10 weeks. The lead time for the production of the range is 8 weeks, and the lead shipping time is 2 weeks. The range will arrive in the warehouse and sectioned off with 50% of the products sent to the store, and 50% held in the warehouse to be prepared for online orders, as they could be more frequent. The total number of weeks from planning to launch day will be 31 weeks. This is shorter because the range will be manufactured within the UK, and the transportation should be quicker, more efficient and
cheaper than if it was sourced abroad. For a small independent retailer like Miss Francesca Couture, it is easier for audits and quality control to be carried out within the UK. If supply outstrips demand at the end of the 28 week selling period then it may be discussed during the planning of the next range to source it from abroad to fulfil the needs of the new customers. The selling period of 28 weeks has been decided on because it is a small independent retailer, and therefore they could extend their sales by having the stock available for longer than their competitors, and they can take in customers over Christmas and Easter, which are two key dates for retailers to push their profits. The critical path begins in February of the same year the range is launched because of the reduced amount of lead times for planning, production and shipping as it is sourced within the UK. The critical path and end of the selling period for the old ranges may overlap, and this can be altered if the ranges are successful, and
production is outsourced to Asia.
Critical Path: Miss Francesca Couture, Autumn/Winter 2016 Men’s, Women’s, Kid’s.
Task 21: Critical Path and Lead Times Lead times can impact the critical path if the buyer sources the manufacturing from a country that observes religious events such as Eid, or Chinese New Year. Both of which could cause factories to close between five days and a month in order to celebrate the religious and national holidays. It is the responsibility of the buyer to research the key dates in the countries that they source the manufacturing and fabric from. A delay in the critical path can affect the key milestones such as deadlines, monitoring the progress of each product; for example an increase or decrease in cost price caused by sourcing a cheaper workforce, or negotiating a better deal in volume of clothing. It can also cause a delay in reaching the customer, i.e. a trend that may be missed due to a delay in the critical path. Design packs are sent to several suppliers to determine the cost of producing each garment, and this can take up to 4 weeks, and then the buyer and technician has to visit the supplier to discuss costing, garment selection, and negotiating the best price for the best quality for their brand. If the shipping is affected due to external factors such as the weather, or choice of transportation it can affect the delivery schedule to the stores, and each store could miss out on hitting KPI’s. Lead time is made of pre-processing lead time, time needed for planning, research sampling, fabric buying, negotiation etc. Procession lead time is the time required to manufacture an item, and post processing lead time is the time needed for dispatch, transportation, customs, delivery of goods to warehouse. During the pre-processing lead time there could be a short amount of time given to the buying team to source the correct fabric and negotiate the pricing with the supplier. For a fast fashion brand it is integral that the buyer is quick to find the right country of origin that may not be affected by external factors that could delay the lead time overall, for example public holidays, political issues that may arise, and economical issues such as import tax and financial stability in the global market. If any negative factors interrupt the lead time it could cause customers to become disgruntled with the company as they cannot buy the clothes that are advertised in magazines and online in their local store. Missed opportunities to latch onto a key trend for that season could take a chunk out of their projected profits, and this in turn could affect the organisational hierarchy within the store and head office as repercussions could include negative press, and employees not getting the hours they need in store due to lack of money flowing into the store due to poor
performance over a key selling period. Processing lead time can be affect the profits of the company if the buyer and the supplier do not fully understand the time it could take to produce a high quantity of a garment. This can be because the supplier did not explain to the buyer truthfully about how they may not be able to complete the order by the deadline they have been given, this could result in faulty products being produced that fail the quality control in the factory and with the QC department within head office of the brand. Some may fall through the net, and a customer may complain about the faulty product and a store could receive more refunds than usual, and an item may have to be recalled if health and safety issues are involved especially if it is a children’s garment, or footwear that has not been properly manufactured under the brands guidelines. Post-processing lead time is the amount of time the buying department and logistical department discuss the amount of time needed to dispatch the finished garments, transport them around the world to different distribution centres to then be distributed within countries, any custom charges that may occur when importing to different countries; this could be VAT, state taxes, and duty on foreign imports, and the delivery of the goods to the warehouse to be prepped for distribution to local stores. If a store does not receive the goods on time, they may miss out on competing with their competitors during important dates in their financial year; Christmas lead up and sale, Summer sale, and new
season lines being introduced into the store. If a delivery does not arrive on time a store could struggle to gain new customers, and utilise key dates such as half-term and bank holidays that bring in more customer’s than other times of the year. Incorrect delivery times could affect how stores prepare for new stock coming in, and could leave them with noting to replenish on the shop floor, and customers not being able to find their size for longer than should be expected for a successful brand. An example of the affects of incorrect lead times is when Matalan moved their head office from Skelmsdale to Knowsley, along with the distribution centre. They did not project the time it would take to move correctly, and during the busiest time of 2014 (the lead up to Christmas) some stores did not receive click and collect order on time, and caused customers to become angry that they did not receive their parcels in time for key events such as Christmas parties etc. Not only were click and collect orders affected, but delivery of new stock was delayed severely which caused stores to organise their own deliveries between each other in order to have the correct amount of sizes available to their customers and be able to put out new stock and increase their profits. The lead time from China is 12 weeks, but it depends on which form on transportation is used; by sea it could be 4-6 weeks, but by air it can be as little as 1-2 weeks. Lead time depends on the
suppliers location compared to where the distribution centres are around the world, and the transportation that is available to the supplier and whether it is sufficient. Moreover, the quality of the fabrics available can extend the lead time, for instance if China is not able to import certain fabrics due to restriction or delay with the fabric producer due to environmental factors; i.e environmental disasters that could affect the production of raw materials such as cotton, or embellishment due to social factors within the community such as sickness, economical struggles etc. The lead time from India is similar to China’s lead time, as they are located within the same area and are affected by the same external and internal factors. It can take 1 to 3 days by road and sometimes it can be shorter to ship stock from Europe by truck. For my range I will be using truck transportation as the range will be sourced from within the UK, and the company will be using UK suppliers. I have chosen to use this form of shipping as it will be easier to monitor the lead times as Miss Francesca Couture is an independent retailer with one store, therefore it could make sense to not incur extra financial charges such as import costs and travel costs if they source from the far east. I will not be sourcing from the far east, but if Miss Francesca Couture decides to in the future, as the buyer I would source embellishment and embellishment designs from India as they specialise in the his method of production and they could produce a higher quality product. The lead time would be up to 6 weeks, and therefore the buying team would have to constantly consult with the managers of the factory and check on the quality of the products before any deadline is given to the factory, and shipments are processed.
Quality Control at an unknown garment factory, Google
Task 21: Critical Path and Lead Times. Extension.
Planning Planning is important as it is vital for the buying team to understand if their products country of origin has holidays that require the factory to close such as Chinese New Year, and Eid. The dates may not be the same every year, but have to be included in the critical path to prevent any delays. Some factories that observe public holidays could be closed from 5 days to 1 month. The impact of this is severe, as it could cause a delay of products reaching the store, and the brand could miss out on making the optimal amount of profit during the peak of a key trend.
Lead Times During the planning stages, it is important to mark out key lead times within the supply chain. Pre-processing lead time, is the time needed to plan, research, and buy the fabric and negotiate with the supplier. Processing lead time is the time that is required to manufacture and item. Post-processing lead time is the time needed for dispatch, transportation methods (shipping, air cargo, truck) and delivery of goods to the warehouse to then be distributed across the country to different stores. An impact on this process could be a delay when sourcing the fabric, or the factory not being correctly equipped to manufacture the product at a quick rate, which could delay the further lead times that have been set. This can affect the decisions a buyer makes, as they may have to extend the post-processing lead time so the stores can prepare adequately with notice about new delivery times and new targets they will have to delegate to their staff, and what they can then tell the customer about new lines and delays that have occurred.
Deadlines Deadlines are important for the buyer as it gives them a time frame to work against in order to achieve everything they need to achieve within the supply chain. It is also important to give the supplier a deadline so that they know when to be ready to transport the products, and they can make arrangements ahead of time to find an available method of transport to ship the products. The impact of deadlines is positive as it can help both the buyer and supplier understand cohesively the targets they have to reach, but there are negative connotations that deadlines can bring about, including pressuring the workforce to work longer nights and miss breaks to reach the deadline. Sometimes the managers may lie to a buyer about how fast they can manufacture a bulk volume to get the job, and then immense pressure is placed on the workforce which is un-ethical and can cause health problems.
Monitoring The buying team will put together a critical path for every garment in the range to monitor the progress and highlight issues that may arise. This can be in the form of an excel document that can be accessed and updated by all the team members. The importance of monitoring is to make sure that each product is produced to the highest quality, and at the same time as other products in the range unless the release is staggered due to any discussed pre-dispositions in regards to a new line being introduced into a brand for the first time. The impact of monitoring is giving the buying team full control over each step of the critical path with each product, so they can foresee any problems that could arise due to external factors such as lack of fabric for a particular item, and finding a way to solve this issue within the lead time. This affects the decision of the buyer as they can keep a cool head and not fear a problem arising that they did not already know about. Micro-managing each stage of the critical path prevents problems within the garment factories such as poor quality of machinery, and poor quality product.
Research Research is important as it helps the buying team find out what the best sellers were in past seasons, and their sales performance over the whole seasonal selling period. Comparative shopping trips are carried out by the buyers and also designers, so they can see how their competition is presenting their ranges in regards to styling, price points, and materials used. This coincides with the review of the brands customer profile, as the customer could change every couple of years depending on the growth of the brand; for example, if they expand globally they might need to consider that customer and include that into a new customer profile. The framework of the range is planned out by the team, so they have a skeletal basis for the new range, and they can keep it close to their target market and their past history of other ranges. The impacts of research allow the brand to stay fresh, and attract new customers along with its loyal customer base. It gives the buying team a good foundation for the new range plan when they look back at previous best sellers during certain times of the year; for example, bundle pyjamas at Christmas time, and more designs with denim leading up to spring/summer. Research can affect the buyers decisions in regards to what trends they bring in that will fit their customer, and the fabrics they choose to source that are cost effective and yet still reflect the new trends of the season and the history of the brand. Design The buyer will liaise with the designer through presenting the concept for the range and the mood of the range according to the trend forecasting they have conducted and their findings that fit with the brands particular customer. They will tell them price strategy, trends for this season, and best sellers for the brand in the previous seasons. This is important as it will help the designer produce CAD design sketches and technical drawings with fabric swatches and trims to bring the concept to life. The Technician from the Quality Control department will also produce a technical pack that includes sizing, grading, and information for the supplier to follow when they produce the prototype in a controlled environment for the brand. This impacts the buyers decisions as they must be clear in their instruction, and trust the trends they have chosen. If not, they could end up spending a large sum of money on products that do not sell and are not wanted by their target customer.
Task 21: Critical Path and Lead Times. Extension.
Costings The design packs are sent to the factories for them to produce initial samples of the products in a controlled environment so that the prototype is a true representative of what will be manufactured by that supplier. This will be sent to several suppliers, and could take up to 4 weeks to complete. The buyer and the QC will visit the factories and negotiate costs and discuss the garments, and find a ways to produce the highest quality product for the best price. This is important as the cost of a product can affect the profit margin percentage, and the success of the range. It can impact the brand in a negative way if the details are not followed closely, and the data they have sent to the manufacturers is incorrect. Costings can affect the buyers decision when they source fabrics, and factories to manufacture the garments. If they are fast fashion, they will seek a cheaper fabric, and a factory that can mass produce the products for a cheap price in bulk. Ethical concerns may come into question, and can have a negative impact on the brand.
Range Building The range building is planned by both the buyers and the merchandisers; the buyer will bring the range together, choosing the best products that will fit their customer profile and also hit the key trends of the season. The merchandiser will monitor the cost price of each item, and their colourway’s, as well as using the previous best selling data to find which items will most likely sell well. The brands values and history must be thought of when planning the range, and the customer needs to be at the forefront of the buyers mind when choosing the trends of the season; for example, fringe may be a key trend seen on the catwalk, but the NEXT customer profile suggests the age range is more about wearable outfits that are not fussy. A brand like Topshop may use the fringe trend, as they can use it in various ways that their customer could appreciate more. This can affect the buyers decision, as they must be aware of what is consistently selling in each department, and how they can add to that without re-releasing the same product and becoming stale against their competitors.
Fabric/Trims The buyer may be shown fabric samples that are not the same colour of fabric they will use, and will probably be of a poorer quality. The fabric may need to be dyed to suit the specifications of the range, and that dye must be sent off to a lab to be approved in use of bulk production of garments. This could take several attempts to do it right, and get the approval needed. All fabrics have to go through a series of tests that analyse its performance to make sure that the products are fit for purpose and that the customer is protected as well the workers who are charged with creating the product in the factories. This can affect the decisions of the buyer as they must source cost effective fabrics and methods of dying and adding embellishment that is viable for the mass market.
Fitting Samples are fitted to retailers size medium, usually a size 12 for women or 42 for menswear. This is an industry standard, and most retailers might have to adhere to it. However, this can cause fluctuations in measurements with each size above and below a size 12. A representative of the manufacture will attend the fit meetings, alongside the garment technologist who will assess the quality of the product. The impact of a fit model is that it is cheaper to have on standard model to fit the clothes samples too, and it allows the buyer to see the final result. However, it may not represent every customer of various shapes and sizes, therefore the choice of style and fabric can affect who may buy that item, and whether it sells well. This can affect the buyers decisions in regards to what they assume the customer will buy, as opposed to what the customer actually buys. This can cause a negative affect in store, as customers may be turned off by the new range. A prototype sample is produced by the manufacturer that may be sub-par, then there is a fit sample in a similar fabric to the desired end product; several fit sample may be produced to be submitted for approval. Fit approval complete, two identical samples are produced in the correct fabric. The samples are sealed. The QC seals the sample with retailers seal of approval, signature, and date. One sample is returned to the manufacturer, one is kept at the retailer for future reference in case changes might be talked about over the phone with the supplier. Samples may be produced in various sizes.
Quality Control The buyer hands the responsibility of the garment to the QC. The QC will update the buyer on the progress of the approval of graded samples, and they will be notified if problems arise. Quality Controllers will travel to the manufacturers to make sure the brands guidelines are being followed and executed correctly. Samples may be randomly audited by the QC and different times within the critical path. Once all the sealing processes are complete, the garment proceeds to bulk manufacture, shipping, delivery, into the retailers warehouse to be distributed to the store. This impacts the buyer as they must go through a lot of hurdles with their garment before they can move onto to the next step of the critical path, however this can be a positive aspect of the critical path as the garment is thoroughly vetted before going into mass production.
Shipping After the manufacturing process is complete it is then prepared and ready to be shipped to the warehouse, wherever in the world they are situated. There are different methods of shipment, including aviation, and by boat and by truck. They each have different times of arrival, and depending on cost and location a brand will have to set lead times and deadlines for logistical purposes. If a shipment is late due to weather or import taxes, it can affect the stores ability to promote the new range and therefore it can cause the store to lose money. Shipment can take up to 12 weeks from the far east, including mainland China and India. European deliveries can take up to 15 days via truck. The impact of a ship sinking can cause the company to lose all of that product. Insurance might be important for the buyer to include in their critical path planning.
Task 21: Critical Path and Lead Times. Extension.
Allocation Distribution to the store depends on the size of the store, and the store’s history of profit and their promotion of previous ranges. Bigger cities will get more of the range made available to them as they will have a broader customer to appeal to and a greater chance of increasing profits. Small stores will have a smaller selection due to the size of their store, and the amount of customers they attract to that store. The basic items will be ordered in greater volume for smaller stores, and bigger stores will have the more trend specific items that may cost more. This impacts the stores more so than the buyer, the buyer’s decisions on where to allocate stock will come down to data within the head office, and therefore decisions will be made due to past history of selling in each store, and not the workers inside. To their detriment, this could effect the workers as they may not be able to prove they can sell to a wider range of customer, and therefore their profits within the store could stagnate. Buying Season Spring/Summer shows are held in the autumn, and Autumn/Winter shows are held in the spring. This gives the buyers time to trend forecast ahead of the next season, and allows them to source products and fabrics ahead of time. The delivery date for Spring is between January and April, and the delivery date for Autumn is between July, August, and September. Holiday season is October, November, and December. This is so the buyers reach the customer at the cusp of a new season, before the customer realises that it is a new season. This also gives each store the ability to sell clothes for a set amount of time that is allowed before it can be reduced during a mid-season sale. This optimises profits, and helps struggling stores reach their KPI’s set by head office. This impacts the buyer, as they must be aware of what the new trends are for next season, now. It can be difficult, and must be planned out intrinsically. This affects the decisions of the buyer, as they might see a trend that they believe could be a hit with their customers, but that trend fizzles out before the season begins and a directional shop may show that other retailers have not taken on that trend. This can cause the brand to not reach its target customer as effectively as they may have planned at the beginning of the critical path.
The quality of the containers can affect the product during the delivery to the warehouse. It is an important resource as it protects the goods and has to fit as many in as possibly can so it is more cost effective.
Transportation
Make sure during the planning stages that head office is aware which countries are celebration public holidays that will delay the production
Import and Export tax between countries is important to know as it can affect the cost of the shipping and production of the range.
Within the factory there needs to be a manager that can ensure the critical path is not interrupted for their client, and that lead times are met.
Staff
The expertise of the staff within the production of the garments is important to increase the quality and the efficiency of the production. Within the production at the end of production there is a quality control room where staff check the quality of each garment. During visits the head office quality controller will check this thoroughly.
Quality Control
It is important because any poor quality goods that are faulty could cause a number of refunds and dissatisfaction of the customer and loss of profit.
The supplier must have the resources available to transport the goods to warehouses around the world; such as a lorry to transport goods to the port, and access to a cargo ship to meet the deadline.
Within head office there is a quality controller that understands the requirements of the industry standards and requirements for safety.
Critical Path and Production Issues
Should have a close proximity to roads and ports to transport finished product.
It must be in a good location, close to a communication, so there is a strong workforce.
Development Site
The site must have access to internet, and a good supply of electricity that can help the factory produce clothes over a long period of time.
Industrial sewing machines must be of a high quality so no accidents happen and cause a delay in the critical path.
Industrial Equipment
The proto-type sample room must be controlled and represent the rest of the equipment used during bulk production.
Dyeing of fabric during production cannot alter the quality of the fabric, and must be consistent through the production process.
Photoshop is necessary for the design team to convey their designs to the buying team.
Computers within the factory is vital to monitor production of garments and the rate of the production, to keep the critical path steady.
Skype is a viable communication tool that can help the supplier communicate regularly with head office.
Communication and Technology
Task 21: Evaluate resources required for production and their availability.
Evaluate resources required for production and their availability Transport Transport is an important resource within the production of the range, as it help suppliers meet their deadlines, and for buyers to reach the milestone in the critical path. It is important for the ranges to shipped with the correct method of transportation, for instance; if the range is being produced in Asia, the supplier chosen must have adequate resources to transport the products to the port to then be shipped to the destination, which could take up to 12 weeks. If there is a delay such as an earthquake that splits the road making it unusable to transport the goods, or if bad weather at sea prevents the large cargo ships from transporting the goods across the ocean, it will affect the critical path. This is why it is important for the resources to be available, and the supplier to have an understanding of issues that could affect them reaching the deadline. Also during transportation, the use of containers and the quality of containers must be thought highly of when resourcing for logistical transportation. It is important for the head office to have insurance in place in case anything does go wrong, and legalities like VAT and import and export tax is worked out.
Quality Control/ Fabric Quality control is an important resource for retailers to have. They have their own quality controller within the head office environment that will check the proto-type, and send off the colour dyes and fabrics to be tested so they are fit for purpose when launched. The quality controller will join the buyer and visit the supplier wherever it is based, and make sure the garments being produced are in line with the proto-type and that each garment is exactly the same. The quality of the product, if not monitored, can slip through the net and reach the customer and be of a poor quality. This could increase complaints to head office, and the amount of refunds that the store is taking. With each refund, data is collected that can include a reason ‘poor quality’ or ‘faulty’. This helps the quality controller understand what is wrong with that particular item, and deduce whether a failure in the critical path was to blame. The embellishment and trims have to be approved by the buyer before they are added to the garment. It could cost more to add them to the garment, or it could cause delays in the production.
Staff Staff are an important resource within the production of the range as they are the workforce that has to adhere to the technical design guidelines set by the brand. They must produce the product to the same standard as the proto-type, and make sure that the production of each garment is the exact same. Staff must be available to work within the time limit to reach the deadline, and to make sure the critical path is not disrupted. The supplier has to be chosen by the buyer, and the buyer is responsible in making sure that the critical path is not going to be disrupted by public holidays that may force the supplier to close the factory for up to a week, which could add an extra week to the critical path, and then it could affect the launch date which would have to be pushed back. That could affect profits, and the store’s could miss out on the optimal time to make a profit.
Industrial Equipment Industrial equipment like sewing machines, overlockers, dyeing tools, print makers, and embellishment tools, are all important in the making of each garment. Not only do they have to be working correctly, and be able to produce the same quality performance up to the 10,000th garment, they must be safe and be in line with health and safety checks conducted by the brand and the supply manager. Other industrial equipment could include the tools used in the making of the proto-type, which must be of a high standard and reflect the supplier’s ability to produce high quality products at an efficient rate. It is important that the industrial equipment is not faulty, and can delay the critical path if the industrial equipment has to be replaced, or an engineer has to be called to the factory which could stop production all together.
Task 21: Evaluate resources required for production and their availability.
Development Site It is important that the site to build the factory on is close to a road so transportations can access the factory and deliver the garments to the nearest port to be shipped. In a country like China that has factories producing garments, they might have to locate their factories close to the seaboard making it easier for their trucks to access the ports. Development sites are important as if they are built close to a community then it can hire the community to work in the factory which will increase the amount of garments produced. The development site must also have access to a power system, like a generator, and be able to hook up to an internet connection in order to conduct Skype meetings with the buyer and quality controller in their own head offices in another country. They must also have the capability to work long hours, and not incur power failure due to poor service in the area.
Technology Technology within the head office is important so the design team can meet the lead times when they produce CAD designs that can be show at the pre-range selection meeting, where the buyers and merchandisers meet to discuss the options for the range, and what garments will be approved for production. Photoshop and Illustrator can help the design team produce a sophisticated range for the buyers to view in a short amount of time, and Excel allows the merchandiser to show the buyer the best sellers from the previous seasons, the cost price, and the shipping costs. This makes it easier for the buyer to monitor the critical path, and make sure lead times are met.
Communication Methods Communication methods include fitting the factory with basic internet that can allow the manager to speak to the buying team and quality controller in another country. Not only does this halve the time it takes to make decisions for the buyer and quality controller, but it also adds reassurance to the head office that they are in constant communication back and forth with their supplier and if any problems arise they can find out immediately and make swift decisions. With the help of a computer system inside the factory, it is easier for the manager to monitor the production methods and the rate in which each garment is being produced so they can estimate a timescale for the export of the garments to the warehouse.
Task 21: Industry Equipment
Textile and apparel manufacturing is a large business that is predominately within Bangladesh, Macau, Cambodia, Pakistan, El Salvador, Mauritius, Sri Lanka, Dominican Republic, Nepal, Tunisia. Most of the people in these countries fall below the poverty line. They may be highly trained in the garment industry, but they are not paid a substantial amount. Within a factory it will have a strong workforce, and they can be young women, older women, all of whom work long hours and are trained to use industrial equipment that in any other country could require a specialist vocational degree. Industrial equipment has incurred a lot of dangers over the year, from the beginning of the industrial revolution, to the modern world. The multi fibre arrangement governed the world trade in textiles from 1974-2004, and they imposed restrictions on developing countries in regards to exporting goods to developed countries. However, this expired in 2005, (ILO.org, 2005). What has happened since then is more and more exports are coming out of poor countries to feed the demand in richer countries. This requires more factories to be built within developing countries, more equipment to be acquired, and more people working in that factory. This all costs money, and not all the factories may follow health and safety guideline. Not only does this affect the production of the clothes, as more staff are introduced, and the demand is higher to meet deadlines, the managers may not provide the correct training or the correct safety measure for the use of the industrial
equipment. Sewing machines that ordinary people use are smaller, and are vetted so they are safe to consumers, however with industrial sewing machines they move at a faster rate, and there may not be a way to prevent an accident from happening due to the strength of the needle. Other methods that could be used include dyeing fabric in large quantities, that could produce toxic gasses and chemical bi-product that could endanger the workforce, and the community if it is not safely disposed away from the main water supply. References Ilo.org, (2005). The new era of textile trade Taking stock in the post-MFA environment. [online] Available at: http://www.ilo.org/global/publications/magazinesand-journals/world-of-work-magazine/articles/WCMS_081365/lang--en/index.htm [Accessed 11 Feb. 2016].
Deliveries of the samples to the head office will cost a lot of money, as they cannot be damaged in transit.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints. The skills in the supplier need to be able to produce a suit to the technical specifications, and be able to produce products that are of industry standard within menswear. If they are not highly skilled this could delay lead times, and the critical path. The proto-type may look and feel different that what was originally expected. This can be due to the supplier not having the skills required to produce a high quality product. To overcome this problem a buyer must monitor the production process, and visit the supplier’s sample room to investigate it thoroughly.
If no supplier can be found for the production of the leather and suede products, we may have to outsource this part of the production, and this could reduce the RRP and the profit margin may have to be shortened but not less than 40%. This is because of the import costs that could be incurred, and travel costs to visit the factories abroad.
Design Issues Shipping
The range may not be right for the consumer, due to lack of research into consumer behaviour, and a weak customer profile. To rectify this the marketing strategy may have to adapt and change to bring in a different customer than originally imagined.
Transport containers must be strong and sturdy to prevent damage to the goods.
Problems & Constraints
Warehouse
Problems that could occur with the staff employed in the warehouse is this may eat into the costing of the range, and the net profit after the end of the 28 week selling period could be less than projected.
Shipping
MFC will use trucks as method of shipping between the UK suppliers and the warehouse/store.
PRODUCTION FOR YOUR RANGE MENSWEAR Communication is key. Even though the suppliers will be based in the UK, they need to understand the specifics of what is being asked of them. This could be affected if they are not from this country.
Sourcing The quality of the men’s range is important. It requires more than one method of production, and a lot of technical skill from the workers in the factory. Therefore, researching adequate suppliers is important, and this could cost time and money.
Specialist leather makers must be used to produce the footwear, kilt and coat.
Cost Fabric
Most of the fabric used is silk, and some have print overlay. This would require time, and cost more due to the technical process of dyeing silk.
Location of the supplier is important, it could be in a rural area that has no access roads. This problem can be overcome by visiting the location. MFC is sourcing from within the UK, so war and conflict may not be a problem. However, there could be a shortage of a material that is used in the men’s range, like cotton, that could cause MFC to seek a supplier elsewhere; this is why focused sourcing, as opposed to single sourcing, is important. As many different materials are used, with different production methods, it would be un-realistic to deal with one supplier.
Quality of fabric will affect the cost. With the menswear range the suits will cost the highest because of the quality involved in the production of them. The fabric consists of mainly silk.
Suede is used for the bag, and this would require a specialist manufacturer based in the UK as well as a high quality fabric.
The cost of employing the staff to work overnight and throughout the day to fulfil order and deliver the correct products to the store.
To rent the warehouse would cost a lot of money over the 28 week selling period.
Warehouse
The security of the warehouse is important. Cost of insurance in case of fire is integral.
Equipment maintenance; check that all equipment used by the staff is up to standard and does not risk life, or damage the product.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints. Design problems that could affect the boys range is the accessibility for the child throughout daily life. This can be solved by paying for rigorous testing by children during the fit of the garment process of the critical path, and the sample testing during the pre-production lead time. Using boxes instead of containers may be cost effective, but it may be susceptible to water damage during transit. This can affect the quality of the product.
The boys range is a mini-me range. Therefore the design has to be suited to the mother and father, but the quality has to suit the child. Therefore field research needs to be conducted preproduction.
Design Issues Shipping
Transport of the clothes from the supplier can be used with strong boxes. This is cost effective.
The boys range can be held in boxes in the warehouse, which will conserve space. However, this could cause the products to get damaged, and this in turn could cause customer dissatisfaction. Therefore, products may have to be steamed once they arrive at the store, to release the creases.
Shipping
Importing of materials from outside the UK if need be will cost more, and this will include VAT and shipping cost.
There may be children's wear specialist suppliers that will have previous experience producing child friendly clothing. This can be found through research and visiting trade shows within the UK.
Sourcing
The boys range includes a lot of kid friendly fabric with cotton predominately used throughout. This could be difficult to source from within the UK, so may have to source further afield and then import the materials to the UK suppliers.
Cost
PRODUCTION FOR YOUR RANGE BOYSWEAR
Problems & Constraints Warehouse
The footwear is produced of leather, and so specialist sourcing would be required, plus rigorous testing to prevent injury to the child.
As the range involves a lot of cotton and cotton/jersey mix, there may be difficulties in sourcing the amount required. Therefore some fabric may be shared between the three ranges, and import of non-UK fabric may be required, which will reduce cost and time, and prevent critical path delays.
Fabric
The suits are made of silk, and so will cost extra to print the silk with a pattern. This will increase cost of production.
The fabric used in the boys range will have to undergo rigorous industry standard testing to prove it is fit for purpose and suitable for an energetic child. This will cost time within the critical path, and cost money to pay for the testing with a private company.
Warehouse
Cost of paying staff to organise the deliveries so they can be sold online, and transported to store.
The majority of the boys range can be packed into boxes, a part from the suits which must be hung.
Insurance will have to be included with this range in case of fire, due to flammable materials.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints. Shipping the wool from the farm to the supplier will cost money and require insurance as it is a raw material that could be damaged. This is a high end, high quality, range. There are issues that could arise if the materials are not flexible enough for girls to jump around and run in. The samples will need to be tested by different girls to test its flexibility, and wear ability.
Chemicals used to dye the wool, and the fabric, should not transfer onto the child through excessive wear, and they should be tested by a private company in case the chemicals used in production are toxic. The QC will have to check the end product before the supplier ships the products to the warehouse.
Industry standard testing for the girls wear, especially in regards to the faux fur, as this could be a irritant or chocking hazard.
Shipping
Cost
With trucks being the only method of shipment, it can affect what products are shipped, and how much can fit in a truck. This can increase costs. Also, high quality materials being used in the girls wear range include wool, and that will need to be shipped to the supplier from the farm, and without damage. This can cost a lot of money to insure its safety.
Design Issues Shipping
The cost of renting the warehouse for the 28 week selling period will cost more for MFC than for another retailer, because the average selling period is 16 weeks. Therefore, the warehouse may not be of the highest quality when rented, and there may be improvements that could be made to the warehouse like temperature control, and more security, that could cost more money.
Wool is used for the jumper, and this will have to be dyed. Samples of the fabric will have to be analysed for comfort and wear ability.
PRODUCTION FOR YOUR RANGE GIRLSWEAR
Problems & Constraints Warehouse
Fabric
Sourcing
Sourcing of the wool will need to be within the UK, and could come from a farm. The wool will need to be cleaned, and tested by a private company to approve it for use in production. A specialist supplier will need to have the correct skills to process and use the wool without wasting materials. The silk dresses have the same print on the silk that is consistent through all three ranges, which will make it more cost-effective for MFC.
As with the boys range, the girls range has been designed with comfort the main priority. The fabric consists of mainly cotton, faux fur, and wool.
As wool and faux fur are used in the range, the fabric will have to be protected from other products in case it becomes flammable and causes damage and stock loss.
Warehouse
There are different colours involved in the production of the clothes, and to prevent transference there will need to be plastic protection over the dresses that are hung, and around the t-shirts and skirts.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
The use of luxurious fabrics can be good for the marketing strategy of the brand, but it may not be comfortable for the customer, this may have to be rectified in the next range, and a customer focus group may need to be carried out with testing of the sample clothes before they are produced.
Due to the intricate details of the design, especially with the tailored suits, the MFC design team may have to monitor the production of each suit to check the quality is the exact same, and fits the retail industry standard for sizing.
A lot of the products within the womenswear range are made of delicate fabric, and cannot be damaged in transit. To prevent this, a lot of the products will have to be placed into boxes and then into containers, to protect the quality. Tissue paper will be wrapped around the metal parts of each product, to prevent it from scratching the materials; for example the plastic clutch, the shoes, and products made of leather.
Shipping
Cost Fabric
PRODUCTION FOR YOUR RANGE WOMENSWEAR
MFC would have to use focused sourcing as there are different production requirements for each product. This could increase the price, but prevent any loss of time within the critical path if the supplier does go into administration and has to cancel the contract.
The dyes used will have to be custom made, and tested to check they are safe to be involved in the garment production. This could cost money, and delay the critical path.
Problems & Constraints
If the staff are not properly trained in how to care for the clothes, they may damage a garment that then could not be sold and therefore due to the high RRP it will cause the financial projections to change. To prevent this, the staff must have previous experience in a warehouse, and be able to work to warehouse standards.
Shipping
The use of specialist trucks that prevent the growth of mould and damp within the garments will cost more money, as unlike fast fashion, this brand is high end and therefore quality is important and any damage can affect the saleability of the product.
Design Issues
Warehouse
The puffa jacket is made entirely of leather, and this is printed. Therefore, to prevent any affects on the leather quality, a supplier will have to be sought out that can produce the exact design. This will cost money.
Sourcing
Sourcing the materials for womenswear will incur the most costs out of all the three ranges, as specialist manufacturers will have to be sourced. If they cannot be found within the UK, the next step would be to source within the EU. This could cost more as not only will the skills be of a higher quality, but the exporting of the materials and the importing of the goods to the UK will be higher. This could affect the profit margin, and could force the RRP to change, but no less than 40% to keep it healthy.
Out of all of the ranges, the womenswear range consists of premium fabric, and intricate design. Therefore this needs to be treated with care. The staff in the warehouse must have previous experience of working with high end goods, and be able to protect the products from damp, flammable objects, and different smells that could exist in the warehouse. The atmosphere must be kept clean, and protection must be worn by the staff.
The shoes in the range are composed of faux fur, velvet, and PU. It would require a specialist supplier in footwear to manufacture this to the highest quality. This would cost a lot of money, and could affect the RRP.
The use of silk as the main fabric in the women’s range consists of the same print in all the other ranges. This is more cost effective. However, silk does not have any give in the fabric, therefore the specifications given to the supplier must be correct, and the silk must be tested before production can start. This can cost time, and affect lead times in the critical path.
Warehouse
The site must be accessible to the store, and have direct access to motorways to successfully complete customer’s online orders.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
Identify and examine the influences on the critical path for menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear . The fabric that is used throughout all three ranges is printed silk. This is a high quality fabric, and would require a specialist to digitally print the pattern onto the dyed silk. The dyeing process will require different production methods including creating a custom dye that fits the colour used on the range plan, and then testing the colour to check that it is safe to use in the production of the garment, and then dyeing the silk and then checking the quality is the exact same and is not affected by the digital printing onto the silk. This would take time, and could affect the lead times within the critical path. It could be more than likely that
the silk does not come out looking perfect after the first attempt, and this could create a delay, and cost money which would affect the overall profit at the end of the selling season, as the launch date could be pushed back and Miss Francesca Couture could miss out on selling the range at pivotal times of the financial year, such as Christmas. All the fabrics and embellishment must be suitable for children, and cannot have any high toxicity levels, and cannot transfer onto a children's body after excess sweating that can occur during playtime. All of this can be rigorously tested with the help of an outside company related to the manufacturing and fabric business. The shipping that will be used includes transporting the fabric and the finished products using a truck. The truck has to have a controlled atmosphere so mould, and damp doesn’t occur on the fabric which would ruin the product and make it unsellable. The cost of finding a suitable truck with the right equipment to stabilises the environment and protect the product could by higher than anticipated in the initial planning period of the critical path, there may not be many trucks like that available to a small independent retailer like MFC, and therefore other methods may have to be used including shipping the goods in containers along the coast to the Liverpool warehouse. The use of containers is more expensive than boxes, but they can protect the garments more and prevent any damage to the products from occurring. Having a second plan will prevent further delays on the critical path, and keep the suppliers deadlines the same. With the childrenswear range, this can be shipped in boxes but adequate protection must be used such as plastic wrap and tissue paper, the same method will be used for the accessories in both womenswear and menswear. The warehouse must have a controlled atmosphere, be secure at all times, and have accessibility for large transit vans, and cars, so that staff members can be hired to work day and night to process the deliveries from the supplier to the store, and process online orders to the customer. If the warehouse is not in the correct location, with access to a motorway, then it could cause delays in the product reaching the store in time for launch dates and replenishment dates, as well as delays in regards to customers not receiving their orders. In some cases orders may come from international customers, and they may need to be sent off in time to reach the airport and be logged onto a cargo plane, and then tracked by the buyer and merchandiser. In MFC this can require hiring another staff member to prevent any delays in the critical path, and this in turn could incur more cost. Products like the wool jumper in the girls range, and faux fur in the women’s range could be cause for concern if the right staff are not hired for the warehouse. Therefore, there must be sufficient guidelines in place to prevent flammable objects coming in contract with fire; this could be prevented by housing them in a separate area to the other products, and having staff members wearing more protective clothing. Not only can this prevent fire spreading, but it can prevent any damage occurring to the products such as water damage, or tarnishing the product with dirt and grime. This can prevent the product from being sold, cause stock loss, and effect the profits of the range. During the sourcing of the production and certain materials such as cotton, if it is found that there are not enough materials available within the UK to produce the quantity needed by the supplier, the materials may have to be sourced from further afield, and the second plan would be to look within the EU for the materials. This can increase costs, and increase the lead times within the critical path as it will take longer for the materials to arrive at the supplier, and there could be delays such as bad weather when the shipment makes its way to the UK. Testing of the design must be carried out early on the critical path as there will be numerous samples produced by different suppliers that will arrive at different times, and some deliveries may be delayed for reasons such as collapse of the supplier’s business, or lack of available trucks to deliver the product, and public holidays. In order to have materials approved for use they must also be tested before the samples are made, this may include waiting for a company to email the results which could take a few weeks depending on how efficient the range planning is, and how quick the sample materials can be sourced to be tested. In regards to the boys and girls range, the testing is necessary, and could make or break a range. If the tests come back and they are not approved to use, then it will cause the range to be scrapped and a new one developed, which will most certainly affect the critical path, and the launch date could be delayed indefinitely.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
What amendments could you make to your designs to ensure faster and cheaper production?
I could amend the country of origin, and change it from producing it within the UK and
outsourcing it to India. The reasoning behind this could be that it would cost less to produce the ranges in India, due to the minimum wage being lower than the UK, and the workforce being highly skilled in the making of embellishment and using materials such as silk and cotton. Not only could the workforce have more skills in the production of the garments, but there may be a greater depth of staff within the factory, with the production being quicker and deliveries reaching the UK quicker and more efficiently with the use of shipment across the ocean. This can change the dates of the critical path’s lead times, such as planning and planning the range. It can also affect the price of the materials sourced, and therefore the RRP can be cheaper and more funds can be used for the import of the products. Instead of using premium quality materials for all the products, there could be a steeped level of quality throughout the range, meaning that one or two products can be priced significantly higher than other items, making the range easier to produce, and more accessible to a broader range of customers. An example could be the leather jacket in the womenswear range. Instead of using solely leather, as the buyer I could instead use polyurethane. This is a cheaper fabric, and is used in mostly leather-look products for high-street stores. Instead of it all being PU fabric, it could 60% PU and 40% leather, making it more cost efficient during production and the quantity that can be produced within the same amount of time. This could increase profits overall at the end of the 28 week selling period.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
Change the fabric, from leather to PU, so it is more durable and can be wiped clean.
The lining is silk, which could be amended to cotton as it is a more breathable fabric.
Instead of leather, use a more durable and harder material that is easier to care for, and will be cheaper to produce.
Instead of sourcing from the UK, MFC could source from China. However this could affect lead times, and the critical path, but would ultimately be cheaper.
Have the footwear made in China where it would be cheaper to produce with a larger volume.
This is made from cotton and silk. It may not be flexible for children to move around in comfortably. Instead the fabric could be jersey cotton.
Instead of embellishment on the shoulders, which could cost more, it could be a silk ribbon instead. This would save more money.
Instead of leather, which would cost more and not be durable. Instead, change it to a canvas material which would be cheaper and have more longevity.
Instead of a long strap, make it a short grab handle. This will reduce the cost, and be easier for a child to wear.
Task 22: Assess your range and amend and critically evaluate the designs to meet costs, production needs and other constraints.
The major component of the boot is velvet, but this could be changed to a more durable material such as PU, which is a faux leather. This would be cheaper, and reduce costs.
The lining could be velvet, which could provide high quality, but also more cost effective than if it was the outer shell.
Instead of a v neck style, it could fit with the seventies theme a lot clearer if it were a turtleneck. It could provide more comfort, and fit the seventies trend more.
Instead of making this out jersey knit, it could be made from wool which is of a higher quality and could match this product’s quality with the rest of the women’s range.
The jacket could be made from plastic as opposed to a waxed cotton which is costly and requires a higher technical ability from the supplier.
The tapered trousers are made from 100% cotton which gives minimal flexibility for the wearer. I could change the material to polyester and therefore make it easier to clean, and less likely to split.
The belt could be removed as this is costly to produce on a greater volume, and instead use popper fastenings or a zipper.
To save on costs, instead of producing this in various waist sizes MFC could add an adjustable waistband to the trousers so it is easier to change to different customers, and cheaper to produce.
Task 23: Analyse the supply chains of Zara, Primark, and H&M
Zara’s business is centralised, making logistics simpler, and coordination easier. Shipments arrive at the same time each week, with tags and labels already on the garment. (11)
Zara does not hold a lot of inventory throughout its supply chain; for example excess product or raw materials. Stores only receive the products they need twice a week, this prevents the build up of unpopular stock. (9) Zara can deliver goods to its European stores within 24 hours, and to its American and Asian stores within 40 hours. Unlike its competitors, it can get a product out from concept to store in just 15 days, while the industry standard is 6 months, according to Nelson Fraiman of Columbia Business School. (12)
It only locks in about 50-60% of its line by the start of the season. This means that up to 50% of its clothes are designed and manufactured smack in the middle of the season. (7)
This makes it easier for staff throughout the supply chain to understand when a product will reach the customer, and therefore the customer will be better informed by the retail staff.
Zara keeps a significant amount of its production inhouse, and their factories reserve 85% of their capacity for in-season adjustments. ie, they will have room to introduce new products into the line in case customer behaviour changes or new trends come into affect. (4)
Zara relies heavily on sophisticated fabric sourcing, cutting, and sewing in facilities near its design headquarters in Spain. The workers wages are higher, but the turnaround time from design to production and export to stores is quicker than other retailers. (5)
Zara commits six months in advance to only 15-25% of a seasons line, this makes it able to invest more money in ontrend pieces as they happen over fashion week. (6)
Zara adapts couture designs, manufactures, distributes, manufactures, distributes, and retail clothes within 2 weeks of the original design first appearing on catwalks. (3)
ZARA SUPPLY CHAIN
Store managers can communicate through the Zara intranet system the feedback they get from customers; what they dislike and what they like. This is shared to the designers in the H.O and they sketch new designs to be made immediately.
Zara is able to send smaller shipments into stores, depending on what sizes need to be replenished according to the store manager. This produces a ‘scarcity’, making it appear to customers that a product has limited availability and thus pressuring the customer to buy now, rather than just browse. This adds to the ‘exclusivity’ of the brand. (8) Zara has stores in 86 countries in Europe, the Americas, the Middle East, and Asia (1).
In 2012, Inditex reported total sales of $20.7 billion in Europe, with Zara representing 66% of total sales ($13.6 billion) (2)
Twice a week, at precise times, store managers order clothes and twice a week, on schedule, new garments arrive. The company produces about 450 million times a year for its 1,770 stores in 86 countries. (3)
Having a distribution headquarters in Spain allows Zara to ship small batches of clothes to its stores at a more frequent rate than its competitors. This prevents them focusing on one trend in particular, buying large volumes of raw materials and producing mass quantities of products. Therefore, they have a low risk supply chain, with little harm done to the company if a particular product does not sell well. (10)
References 1-11 Lu, C. (2016). Zara's secret to retail success - its supply chain. [online] Tradegecko.com. Available at: https://www.tradegecko.com/blog/zara-supply-chain-its-secret-to-retail-success [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
Task 23: Analyse the supply chains of Zara, Primark, and H&M
Primark can be seen as a ‘one size fits all’ retail model. It could appear to not adapt to different cultures and customer behaviours when expanding their retail stores outside the EU. (9) Primark has had to lower its gross profit margins due to its affiliation with factories in developing countries that do not abide by the law, as this may have caused less footfall into their stores. (11)
Primark sources their materials from developing countries. This reduces cost as labour is cheaper, however they have come under fire from different charities for using young children to manufacture their clothing which lowers cost but can affect the company on a global PR scale. (10)
To further keep costs down, the company do not advertise on a large scale like their competitors. For example, they do not have any television adverts, or print adverts. They depend on their low costs being the reasoning behind customers going to their store. (3)
The units they invest in within different cities tend not be within large shopping centres as this can increase the rental price. Therefore, the majority of the Primark stores are within large buildings that are outside of more high profile shopping areas. (6)
PRIMARK SUPPLY CHAIN
There is a limitation on reordering of products, as they operate on a ‘when it’s gone, it’s gone’ method. This reduces the costs further, as they do not have to spend more on replenishment, and can spend more on bringing in new products that could be copies of competitors or catwalk trends of the moment. (2)
Staff training primarily focuses on keeping control of checkout lines, and less about customer service and instead focusing on monitoring inventory. (7)
References 1-11 Ieseinsight.com, (2016). IESE Insight No Bells, No Whistles: The Simple Case of Primark. [online] Available at: http://www.ieseinsight.com/doc.aspx?id=1274 [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
Primark’s niche is its ‘rock-bottom’ pricing. They rely on cheap products made from synthetic materials that cost less to source and produce than rawmaterials. It may not last long, which is shown in the pricing strategy. (1)
In 2001, Primark opened on of its largest stores in Manchester. They focus on larger units as they increases the density of the products they can sell in one store. (8)
The cheapest items are advertised at the front of the store to bring in passing customers, and encourage them to fill their baskets. (5)
Unlike their rivals who have nearly all taken to the internet to sell their product, Primark currently does not have an e-commerce website. They have dabbled in selling with ASOS but this has not been consistent.
This results in customers frequenting the shop more than the competitors, because of the fear of ‘missing out’. Therefore the average store turnover is 6 weeks between ranges. (4)
Task 23: Analyse the supply chains of Zara, Primark, and H&M
Second tier suppliers are the suppliers for the suppliers. They will produce the materials used in the production process, but H&M do not have direct contact with them. This can cause issues if certain safety procedures are not followed. (5)
H&M do not include factories into its supply chain, making it harder to manage the issues that may arise within the production of their clothing i.e, safety and human rights issues. This is cost effective. (10)
The suppliers are part of a tier system; first tier, and second tier. The first tier suppliers must sign the new code of conduct before they produce anything for H&M.(4)
The buying offices are located in Stockholm, Sweden. Along with a group of merchandisers, designs, and pattern makers, the new season is decided. (1)
H&M has over 3,900 stores worldwide, with over 142,000 employees. (6)
H&M is considering using fibres from old clothes to produce its new clothes, which in turn creates sustainability but also reduces cost. (8)
Within the store there a clothes refuse bins where clothes that customers do not wear anymore are handed in, and H&M sifts through each item; 20,000 tons are collected on average, 4060% is donated to charities, 0.30% can be upcycled into something of a higher value, while 30-40% are down cycled, into insulation etc. (9)
H&M is using ‘circular economy’ thinking for its company. A circular economy is when waste produced by a company is used again, through up-cycling, or recycling. (7)
H&M SUPPLY CHAIN Merchandisers are based throughout Europe and Asia. There are 15 production offices. They provide the link between the buying offices and the suppliers, and they must decide on who the suppliers will be. (2) Within the production offices there is a ‘sustainability team’, there are more than 80 people within this team. They follow the code of conduct and FAP (full audit program). In February 2016 all the suppliers had to sign up to the new code of conduct. (3)
References 1-5 Sustainability.hm.com, (2016). Our supply chain. [online] Available at: http://sustainability.hm.com/en/sustainability/commitments/choose-and-rewardresponsible-partners/supply-chain.html [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
References 6-10 Boynton, J. (2016). H&M Wants to Revolutionize the Apparel Industry. [online] Triple Pundit: People, Planet, Profit. Available at: http://www.triplepundit.com/2016/02/hm-wants-revolutionize-apparel-industry/ [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
Task 23: Analyse the supply chains of Zara, Primark, and H&M
Zara, Primark, and H&M are all fast fashion pioneers in the retail industry. However, they each approach the retail market with different ideologies and methods of production. Zara is a brand that may not seem to the consumer as a fast fashion brand, because they create an atmosphere of exclusivity in their clothing; this is achieved because their supply chain consists of a head office and distribution centre in Spain, making it easier to import goods to their stores around the world and therefore import goods more frequently. They can add small amounts of products to the shop floor, without retaining stock in bulk in their distribution centre as they respond to customer behaviour as it happens thanks to the transference of customer data from the store managers. They only produce the amount they need, and leave room for new designs to be produced to coincide with emerging trends throughout the season. Due to the fact their production is centralised, it makes it easy for them to communicate effectively, whilst also make swift decisions that for other companies would require a lot of money and resources; such as designing a new dress that reflects a key trend from the catwalk less than two months prior. They do not have to put all their eggs in one basket and buy in volume, as they have the suppliers within the EU making turn around from design to finished product in nearly 15 days. It may seem like a good advantage for the stores within Europe, but a disadvantage for stores outside of Europe; however their supply chain has a consistent rhythm and they can deliver goods to their stores in Asia and the America’s within 40 hours. Overall the advantages of their supply chain is their innate understanding of their customer thanks to their store managers, and the information they collect on a daily basis. Zara can use that information to increase or decrease the replenishment of a product; if a product sells well they can send whatever sizes have been sold in a particular store for them to be replenished and this can be produced in-house in Spain with a decreased amount of time between production and export of the goods. They can also decide to not replenish stock that does not sell well, and as they do not use mass production of garments from developing countries they do not have an unsellable amount of stock left in their distribution centres; there is room for the designers to design another product that would sell well. Primark, unlike Zara, sources man made materials from suppliers in developing countries like Bangladesh. They have to keep their margins low to be able to recoup a significant profit, this is done through low cost price by using synthetic materials and less than
sophisticated production methods, and in some cases they may use cheap labour and buy in bulk to help keep pricing low when negotiating with a supplier. Primark understands its place within the retail industry, and does not advertise or follow the modern ideology of a fast fashion company, like Zara. They instead focus on selling as much products in each of their stores, and this is done by keeping costs low. They rent units outside of more centralised shopping areas within towns and cities, as they cost lost to rent, and they can buy bigger units that can house more products. Primark operates on a ‘once it is gone, it is gone’ ideology; this not only keeps costs down when buying in a range at the top of the season, but it forces the customer to buy now in case they ‘miss out’ on the product. Cheaper products are shown at the front of the store to entice customers inside, and once inside the customer is surrounded by products in mass quantities. This is the role of the retail staff, they are encourage to focus on keeping queues at an acceptable level as well as managing the amount of stock on the shop floor. Primark are targeting a customer that is not excepting the same level of service that they may find in Zara. Primark has an average turn over of six weeks, which is an advantage for them against their competitors as they do not have to linger on a trend for longer than is necessary because by the time that trend has died, Primark is already producing products for the new trend whilst the season is still continuing. This is similar to Zara, however Primark does not have the logistical soundness of Zara and cannot produce the same quality of products as Zara within the six week turnover. The advantage of Primark against their competitors like Zara and H&M include the fact they can sell a higher quantity of product and therefore increase their profits exponentially against their competitors without having to depend on key trends for the season. A disadvantage of this supply chain is that it is more about making a profit than it is about customer satisfaction. H&M is renowned for their cheap clothing, and their collaborations with designers. However, they are quintessentially fast fashion orientated. However, over the years they have become more involved in sustainability which is the antithesis of fast fashion around the world. Sustainability brings up ideas of high quality clothing, and production methods. However, H&M do not use either. Instead, H&M focus on sourcing their materials from suppliers around the world and the majority of the suppliers are in developing countries like Bangladesh. As of 2016 they are moving towards upcycling and recycling fibres from unused clothes that they collect from within each store around the world; this not only looks goods in a PR stance, but it is cost effective and a positive move forward for the fast fashion giant. Unlike Zara and Primark, H&M have production offices in the countries where they have suppliers. This not only makes it easier for the company to control the production of their goods, they can audit the suppliers without having to travel from Stockholm. The advantage of the H&M supply chain is that they can save costs of sourcing materials as they upcycle old clothing for their new ranges, but a disadvantage is their head office being spread across the world. This can be seen as a logistical
nightmare as it could infer that it could be difficult for each department to communicate with one another effectively without causing a delay in the critical path and lead times. Unlike H&M, Zara and Primark seem to have the upper hand, and appear to have a quicker turnover from design to the goods ending up on the shop floor. To conclude this analysis, I believe that for any retail company to have a concise and effective supply chain the best method would be to produce clothing within the same parameters set by Zara. This may be cost effective in some areas like production and sourcing of materials, but in other areas like logistics and replenishment it seems to be a more modern and effective method in satisfying the customer. As the buyer for Miss Francesca Couture I believe the supply chain I have chosen with the supplier being inside the UK, is a better option for the company as it is cost effective, and will help the company with the demand from the customer, and it is a lot easier to audit suppliers within the UK and communicate effectively with them.
References 1-5 Sustainability.hm.com, (2016). Our supply chain. [online] Available at: http://sustainability.hm.com/en/sustainability/commitments/choose-and-reward-responsible-partners/supply-chain.html [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016]. References 6-10 Boynton, J. (2016). H&M Wants to Revolutionize the Apparel Industry. [online] Triple Pundit: People, Planet, Profit. Available at: http://www.triplepundit.com/2016/02/hm-wants-revolutionize-apparel-industry/ [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
References 1-11 Lu, C. (2016). Zara's secret to retail success - its supply chain. [online] Tradegecko.com. Available at: https://www.tradegecko.com/blog/zara-supply-chain-its-secret-to-retail-success [Accessed 25 Feb. 2016].
Task 24: Financial spreadsheets for the three ranges: Boys Range
Total Replenishment Quantity: 3,500 Replenishment Product Figure: 525
Gross Profit: ÂŁ159,031.49
Task 24: Financial spreadsheets for the three ranges: Girls Range
Total Replenishment Quantity: 1,545 adjusted from 1386; after calculating I found that I had replenished more than I should have originally. Replenishment Product Figure: 119 adjusted from 107; after calculating I found I had replenished more than I should have originally.
Gross Profit: ÂŁ365,632.47
Task 24: Financial spreadsheets for the three ranges: Men’s Range
Gross Profit: ÂŁ635,444
Total Replenishment Quantity: 7,672 Replenishment Product Figure: 1,150, adjusted to 1,317. After calculating I found that I had replenished more than I should.
Task 24: Financial spreadsheets for the three ranges: Women’s Range
Gross Profit: £1,175,413 Overall Cost Total: £907,729.04 Overall RRP Total: £3,223,250
Total Replenishment Quantity: 15,680 Replenishment Product Figure: 2,352, adjusted to 2,541 after finding out I had calculated more replenishment than was necessary.
Task 24: Size availability and replenishment for each range.
The sizes that will be available for the boys and girls range will be 4 years, 5 years, 6 years, 7 years, 8 years, 9 years, 10 years, and 11 years. The shoe sizes will range from size 12-5 The availability of each size for each product will be and estimated 10 of each size to begin with, this is based on the estimated amount of each product that will be sold each week according to the financial spreadsheet. There could be an option to increase the availability of the sizes over the 28 week selling period, depending on the success of each product in each range. The sizes that will be available for the men’s range include: 32inch, 34inch, 36inch, 38inch leg, in short, regular and long. With neck sizes in the shirts ranging from 15inch, 15.5inch, 16inch, 16.5inch, 17inch, 17.5inch, 18inch. The footwear sizes will range from size 6-10. The sizes available for each product will be estimated at 20 per size, depending on the estimated number of each product sold week on week. Adjustments could be made with the supplier under a 6 week lead time. There could be an option to increase the availability of the sizes over the 28 week selling period, depending on the success of each product in each range. The sizes that will be available for the women’s range include: Small, Medium, Large. They will reflect the same size guide that Miss Francesca Couture currently have in their store. The sizes available for each product will be estimated at 20 per size, depending on the estimated number of each product sold week on week. Adjustments could be made with the supplier under a 6 week lead time. The shoe sizes available will be between size 4-8. There could be an option to increase the availability of the sizes over the 28 week selling period, depending on the success of each product in the range.
Task 25: Financial Spreadsheet Analysis: Appraise the financial potential for success when planning the range.
For the boys and girls ranges I have estimated a small amount of products could be sold week by week, this is because it is a new range that is being introduced. I have used this method for the menswear range also, and have based the larger replenishment numbers for the three ranges on research conducted during the competitive shop, and seeing which items were in higher demand. I concluded through my research that simple designs such as t-shirts could sell at a higher rate, but that the main products that would be promoted would be the formal wear in all three debut ranges, therefore from estimating the number of each product that could be sold in a week I could use an equation; finding 15% of the quantity over the 28 week period and using that answer as the average replenishment of that product. With the women’s range I could estimate that it could sell a higher quantity over the 28 week period because it already has a women’s range currently but lacks depth. Therefore more volume could be bought at first, and therefore make it easier to push the product through advertisements as there could be no scarcity within the 28 week selling period. £1,602,755 was the amount of money that I estimated the women’s range could profit with the RRP price, with the cost price estimated at £427,342. The boys’ range profits over the 28 week selling period were estimated at £238,535 after calculating the RRP of each product, and the estimate for the cost price was estimated at £79,503.51. The girls’ range profits over the 28 weeks selling period were estimated at £515,480 after calculating the RRP of each product in the range, and the cost price was estimated at £149,847.83. For the menswear range the estimated profits calculated over the 28 week selling period was estimated at £866,480. The purpose of using a financial spreadsheet is integral for an independent business to keep control of their books, and understand the profitable of different products. Not only can Miss Francesca Couture have a base line for replenishing products in each of the four ranges, they can pre-empt any product selling out by creating lead times within the critical path before the debut date, and also the end date. They can compare actual financial results with their estimates and come to a conclusion as to what went wrong, or what was right about their decision making during the critical path. I have found it hard to include images in the four spreadsheets, but I believe in the next task I should be able to add images to the financial spreadsheets to not only make it easier to understand but also make it more appealing to the reader, whomever they may be. The overall cost total I have calculated, and the estimate cost total is £907,729.04. The overall RRP total, which is a profit projection across all four ranges over the 28 week selling period is estimated at £3,223,250. The reason behind calculating these figures is to hopefully understand the overall cost to the business and the projected profits. This can be useful if negotiating with department stores to include the ranges on their websites or in their stores in the form of concessions, and it could be helpful to use this information when considering expanding the business in the form of buying another unit in another city or town, or asking for grants from charities that support independent businesses. To conclude, I have found that including a financial plan in the portfolio of an independent business is a great way to understand your placement in the retail market, and have information that can be read by all members of the company so they have an idea as to how the clothes are made, their cost, and how much they could make if they met the estimated quantity sold each week for 28 weeks. It is both important and shows that the business is serious about their future. The gross profit for the boys range is £159,031.49. The gross profit for the girls range is £365,632.47. During this financial spread sheet I found it difficult to replenish the correct amount of products according to the formula, instead I took 15% from the quantity of products to find the individual replenishment number. In the case of the boys range, this was only 2 numbers off the overall replenishment number, however for the other ranges the gap was larger. As an independent retailer this could be a mistake, as more expenditure is involved. However, I believe that it is more beneficial to understand individual replenishment numbers for each product, to allow for products that are proven to be more successful to have a higher number of replenishment. Vice versa, this can help lower the replenishment
number of each product that is not selling well to increase the replenishment numbers of products that do sell well.
Task 25: Written Range Plan: Men’s Range
There are 13 products in this range, including 11 different colour ways. The proportion of the menswear garments includes 15.5-inch neck to an 18inch neck. The suits will fit the proportion standards of other retail brands, with a 32-inch leg to a 38-inch leg, and this will include short, regular, and long fit. The casual clothing will be standard retail proportion, with a small, medium and large. The shoe sizes will be from size 6 to a size 10. Miss Francesca Couture is a high-end independent boutique, and their focus is on formal wear. Therefore, the specific garments that have been included are suits and formal trousers. The fabric used throughout the range is silk, and cotton. The reason behind using this material is that it is cost cutting to buy in bulk a particular fabric, and utilise this fabric throughout all the ranges. As MFC is an independent retailer, it is important that costs are kept low, and profit margins are high. The overall cost price is £231,036, the projected profits for the range over the 28 week selling period is £866,480. There is a defined margin between the two figures, and it shows that method for cost cutting could improve the chances of MFC keeping a significant amount of money available for another range to be produced for the next season. The order quantities vary for each product based on the style, and how research as guided me as the buyer into estimating what products will sell well and what products may not, for example, the highest quantity order is 20, and the lowest is 5 for a product. The competitive shop that I conducted showed that menswear could be growing equally as big as women’s wear, and that there could be a niche in the market for high-end menswear. The highest price for one product in the range is £250 for the two suits, and the two kilts. The cheapest product is £45, and that is for the shirts with tie included. The margin for each product is around 73.33%, this is a healthy profit margin. The items will be displayed in store, but will predominately be sold online. This will cut costs as it will prevent stock loss, and prevent the flagship store from being too crowded and uninviting. The cost of the whole range will be £231,036.
Task 25: Written Range Plan: Women’s Range
There are 19 products in this range, including five different colour ways. The proportion of the women’s range will be the same as the proportions that Miss Francesca Couture currently design; small, medium, and large. The shoe sizes will range from size 4 to size 8, as this is industry standard. The main style is that of formal wear, and the trends used
include the seventies trend, this is included in all four ranges as during the competitive shop and the trend forecasting for this range, I concluded that this was the most popular trend and easier to access for an independent boutique. The fabric is the same used throughout all the four ranges, with cotton and silk being the two common compositions.
The cost price for the entire range is £427,342 with the profit estimated at £1,602,755. The place of manufacturing will be in the UK, as this will be cheaper to transport smaller quantities, and easier to audit the factories over time with less cost to the buyer. The lowest quantity order will be 5, and the highest will be 100. The flared coat will have the
lowest quantity, as this item is a specific item that is at the high of the spectrum. The prices vary, with the highest being £295, and the lowest being £25. The profit margin is near enough 73.33% for the products within the range, which is a healthy profit margin. The items will predominately be sold online, so not to interfere with the bespoke tailoring service that is already offered at the Miss Francesca Couture boutique. The cost of the range is £427,342.
Task 25 Written Range Plan: Boy’s Range
The boy’s range consists of 10 products, and 6 colour ways. The sizes available will start from 4 years, to 11 years with shoe sizes available between 12 and 5. This is industry standard, and after researching designer brands and high-end brands that produce children’s wear lines, they are the sizes that are available, and it is considered industry standard. The specific style of the range is formal wear, with casual wear upgraded to a higher end designer ‘look’ with the same patterns used throughout all four ranges to reduce costs, and present a more cohesive look. The cost price of the range is estimated at £79,503.51 and the profit is projected at £238,535. The country of origin will be within the UK as this is cheaper and quicker to meet lead times, and make sure the critical path is completed within a shorter amount of time, with less cost put on the logistics. The results of the competitive shop and directional shop showed that there was a comfortable formal wear range that was missing from top brands and designers, therefore I used this information to curate a more child-friendly range for Miss Francesca Couture. The pricing is different, with the cheapest product being £25 for the t-shirts, and the most expensive being the trainers at £105. The reasoning behind the price points include the fact it could make the range more accessible to a new customer as this is a new range. The margin is around 66.66% throughout the range. This is a healthy margin, but due to the low pricing, it has lowered the estimated profit projection. This could be a problem if the range is not successful, however there is a market for this range, and therefore it could be a surprise hit. The range could cost £79,503.51.
Task 25: Written Range Plan: Girl’s Range
The girl’s range consists of 13 products, and 14 colour ways. The sizes available will start from 4 years to 11 years with shoes sizes available between 12 and 5. The style of the range is high end, with more formal wear than the other ranges. This is due to the research that I conducted, and I concluded that mini-me style could still be a trend for the autumn/winter 2016 season. This fits with the logistics and demographics of the flagship store, where girl’s clothes are more formal than boys clothes, and in some department stores the girls wear range could be considered the range that could make the highest profits. The fabric and colour used is very similar to the fabric used throughout the four ranges, as this is more cost effective for a small independent boutique. The cost price for the range is £149,847.53. The overall profit projection for this range is estimated at £515,480. The order quantities per style varies depending on what is estimated to be the most successful and the riskiest products to the profit of the range. The smallest quantity in the range is 25, and the lowest is 5. The place of manufacturing is the UK, as this is more cost effective for an independent company. The pricing throughout the range is competitive with other designers, and this can be seen in the directional shop. The most expensive item is £85 for the shoes in the collection, as they are designed at a technically higher level than other children’s shoes in competitor stores. The margin throughout the range is around 73.33%. This is a very healthy profit margin. The boy and girl ranges will be available exclusively online as this is more cost effective, and saves space within the store. The cost of the whole range is £149,847.53.
Task 26: WSSI for one product for each range
Trapeze Dress
Embellished Shoulder Dress
Black Suit
Grey Print Trainers
The WSSYI that I have created for one product out of the four ranges is a great indicator for the independent retailer to understand stock control and replenishment for products on an individual level. Not only can markdowns be conceived and the time period for markdowns monitored, it can help the stock control of the products in the warehouse, and can help the merchandiser decide whether or not to put certain products into a further markdown to get rid of stock that does not sell well at full price.
Task 27: Advertising your range to a commercial audience: Appraise the commercial potential for success. Discuss and critically analyse different target markets.
The model should be young, but not too young and look smart.
Directed at young families, making families the statement of intent for the brand.
Women’s Range
The men’s range is named ‘F’ by Miss Francesca Couture. This is powerful, and strong, with various connotations.
Adverts will be placed in Marie Claire, Vogue, and ELLE at the back pages.
The range will be titled, Miss Francesca Couture
Men’s Range The styling will be that of a designer brand; artistic, smart, and inviting.
In the billboards the men’s and women’s products that compliment that children’s outfits and a ‘mini family’ will be created, since the name of the range is ‘Mini Francesca’
Boys & Girls
Advertising for the boys and girls range will be conducted in magazines for parents and through sponsored ad posts on Facebook and Twitter.
Commercial Potential of the four ranges
In store posters will be produced that can be used in other forms of advertising, such as billboards around Liverpool and online.
The target customer may shop in high end stores, and cares about their style. The advertising should reflect this customer. The range will be advertised in The Rake, an international menswear and men’s styling magazine.
Strong, luxurious, Stand out from the other retailers.
Visuals Bright colours for the billboards, and lots of artistic expression.
Task 27: Advertising your range to a commercial audience: Appraise the commercial potential for success. Discuss and critically analyse different target markets.
Men’s Billboard Concept board • Strong • Bold • Colour • Adventurous • Cityscape
F by MFC
Women’s Billboard Concept board • Fun • Exciting • Togetherness • Jet Set • Colour
Task 27: Advertising your range to a commercial audience: Appraise the commercial potential for success. Discuss and critically analyse different target markets.
Kid’s Concept Board Boy’s and Girl’s Advert Concept • Playful • Family • Smart • Colourful • Adventurous Background • Occasion Orientated
The women’s, men’s and children’s adverts will reflect a jet-setting lifestyle, with playful colours, backdrops and styling of the four new ranges.
Illustration of the billboard using Photoshop Illustrator. I copied key pieces from each range to build this family.
Task 27: Advertising your range to a commercial audience: Appraise the commercial potential for success. Discuss and critically analyse different target markets.
Women’s Styling
Men’s Styling
Illustrator Experiment
Illustrator Experiment
Task 27: Advertising your range to a commercial audience: Appraise the commercial potential for success. Discuss and critically analyse different target markets.
The four new ranges for Miss Francesca Couture should bring in a wave of new customers, and they must be invited with colour, artistic styling, and fresh designs that they cannot find in other retailers. With the boys and girls range
named ‘Mini Francesca’ this keeps the brand partially in the name, and also there will be an emphasis on ‘mini, to help guide the customer into the men’s and women’s ranges that will share a similar aesthetic and artistic cohesiveness. For the children’s wear ranges, both sets of children included in the advertising campaigns will be miniature versions of the adult models. A wholesome family will be represented, as this brand requires the whole family to shop there, and not just one or two. The people who will be buying the children’s clothes will be the same customers discussed in the men’s and women’s customer profile. They are the young families that the brand will be targeting. There could be a huge amount of young people, and therefore young families, living within the UK and around the world. They are a niche in the market that may have been over looked by other retailers. Miss Francesca Couture will advertise directly to the young families, and the young parents who still want to look glamourous for their occasional night in the city. The price range is directly targeting young families who may have disposable income to look good for certain times of the year, such as Christmas, birthday’s and Christenings. That is why the selling period is 28 weeks, to allow the range to be bought throughout the busiest times of the year; leading up to Christmas, New Year, and leading up to Easter.
With the menswear range, there is a gap in the market for avant-garde high end design for menswear. Currently, during the directional shop that I conducted I found that suits were very popular in menswear, but there was not a lot of variation available to men; it was either grey, black, or brown. The main trend that Miss Francesca Couture has utilised in the menswear trend is the seventies trend that is still on track to be popular in the next autumn/winter season. The style is eclectic, and the styling of the models and the colour of the billboard should reflect this adventurous and fashion conscious man that I have created the customer profile for. I believe there is exponential room for success for the ‘F’ by Miss Francesca Couture menswear range, as it provides something that is different and unusual and fills the gap in the market. The idea behind the ‘F’ by Miss Francesca Couture name for the range is powerful, strong, and can invite men into the store where the pink logo could be a deterrent. The pricing is vast, with the kilt costing over £250, but I am confident that there is a market of young men who are willing to pay for clothes that set them a part from their friends and could pay extra for good quality clothing that ‘F’ by Miss Francesca Couture provides. The women’s wear range is titled Miss Francesca Couture, as I did not want to detract the customer from the range that is already provided by the Miss Francesca Couture brand. Young women around the world are very aware of upcoming fashions, and most women will try to out do their friends with unique dresses and expensive dresses, the cheapest product is £25 and the most expensive is £295. Not only does this appeal to a wide range of customers, but it also offers high quality and on trend products that could be aspirational key pieces for numerous young adults around the world . Miss Francesca Couture’s price points are high, but the women’s range will be advertised in the back page of Vogue, Marie Claire and ELLE. This will bring in new customers, and introduce the customer to the bespoke tailoring service that Miss Francesca Couture already provide. The styling will be luxurious, and will be similar to Michael Kors; a lifestyle will be advertised alongside the clothes. This will invite the eye to the photographs in magazines, in the shop window and in the form of billboards on the road, and adverts online. By using an international back drop it could bring in customers from outside the UK, and by including the website clearly on the posters it can increase traffic flow and orders from outside the UK. Not only can this increase the profit share, but it can create opportunities for concessions in different international markets. I believe the marketing concepts fit with the customer profile, and target market that Miss Francesca Couture wants to sell the product to. It seems to me from researching adverts by Michael Kors, and House of Celeb Boutique, that a marketing strategy that includes selling a lifestyle, and holding up a mirror to the customer, will increase the amount of interest in a retail company. As part of the ‘re-branding’ of Miss Francesca Couture a new website will be launched that will be easier to navigate, and therefore the new ranges can be bought easily by anyone in any country, with the shipments being dealt with at the warehouse where the new deliveries of stock are processed and overstock is held. The branding in store and online will state that the products are made in the UK, which promoted UK business and promoted a higher quality product within all the ranges. This can be used in the online advertisements and sponsored posts, and could also bring in press from magazines in the UK that could latch on to the ‘Made in the UK’ tag line and write about the company in a positive light as the economy in the UK is wavering currently due to the ‘Brexit’(1) fiasco, with a referendum coming up asking the public whether or not they want to stay in Europe. This could be a great time to launch a product made specifically in the UK, and the branding and advertisements will reflect this. References (1)Ft.com, (2016). Brexit. [online] Available at: http://www.ft.com/eu-referendum [Accessed 4 Mar. 2016].
Task 28:Evaluate organisational and production requirements for suggested designs and garments for garments in your ranges. Develop a commercially viable fashion range to a specific brief demonstrating industry professional practices and procedures. Pick at least 8 from your range to analyse.
Product
Organisational Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Production Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Footwear testing by private companies such as SATRA (2) helps retail companies test their footwear samples including material testing, component testing, and finished product footwear testing which includes; slip resistance, water resistance, durability, European Union approved safety testing , hazardous and restrict substances etc. It is important that the organisation provides footwear that can be worn for a long time without causing injury to the customer. This boot in the women’s range has velvet has the major component; this fabric would need to be tested for durability, comfort and wear ability in all weather conditions.
Before production can begin, Miss Francesca Couture must conduct audits of the suppliers to make sure they have sufficient health and safety guidelines that can protect their workers. Also, they must test the fabric samples before they send the technical design packs to the footwear technologists. They must also make sure that the footwear is modelled on industry standard sizing for size 4 to size 8. For example, the footwear cannot be too narrow or too wide as this could cause discomfort and injury.
The v neck jumper is composed of jersey knit fabric. This material must be tested vigorously to see if it provides comfort, warmth, and does not succumb to shrinkage when placed in the washing machine. As this is an integral product of the autumn/winter range and is going to produced in a high volume quantity, it is important to the success of the range that it does not have any faults or develop any faults after purchase that could affect the stock intake, and overall profit margin of the range. This is a knit product, and therefore care and attention has to be attributed to the product in regards to how it washes, how many washes it could take before it falls apart and if the colour runs. This can be found out through the production of the garment also. The staff have to have the correct technical qualities to make the garment.
Jerseytex is the leading manufacturer of jersey knit fabric to the UK and EU retail industry, Jerseytax (1) have a dyeing fabric that could be used for dyeing the product and produce the different colour ways successfully. Jerseytax have lab dip testing to make sure the exact colour is produced. They also test their fabric quality at every step of the production line, making sure that there is nothing wrong with the fabric before it gets to the end of the production line. The supplier is testing their product, making it easy to audit and understand the composition so the correct labelling can be used. The staff at the supplier factory must have the capable technical abilities, and a sample room available to make sure that the retailer has an exact sample of the finished product to show the retailer before negotiations are made.
The menswear coat is one of the key pieces in the menswear range. It requires waxed cotton fabric, that must be waterproof and have the ability to protect the customer from adverse weather such as rain, snow, wind, and heat. It is the requirement of Miss Francesca Couture to make sure that their choice of fabric is correct. The use of a fabric archive can help them find the correct material for this design, and then they can go ahead and have that fabric tested under numerous conditions. There are certain legalities that must be adhered to in regards to the safety of the product, to make sure the fabric has durability, and the quality of the fabric is good and not toxic to the consumer in regards to the colour running when wet, or the material being too warm and not breathable.
Private companies that test products for the retail sector like SATRA can provide an environmental testing chamber that according to their website can reach temperatures as high as 50 degree centigrade, and as low as -40 degree centigrade. This level of rigorous testing is good for the supplier to show their technical abilities and therefore provide seals and written paperwork to the retail organisation that can be proof that their clothes are fit for purpose. They can test the breathability of the products, and the flammability of the product under intense pressure.
The menswear trouser is a product with 100% cotton composition. It needs to be tested to make sure that as it has little flexibility, it does not easily split along the seam and is not too flimsy of a product. Therefore, the organisational requirement would be to test the fabric swatches first, and see if it can withstand the colour processing, and that it fits the customer profile and looks luxurious and reflects the brand in a positive way. As this fabric may not stretch or give over time, it is important that the sizing of the product is correct, and the technical design is sound and fit for purpose for a man to wear the product over a period of time without being restricted around the waist and along the seams. The organisational requirements include the use of fit models to make sure the male model, who is of an industry standard size, is comfortable.
The production requirements include the use of focused sourcing for the materials, since using cotton for this product would require the supplier and the organisation to agree on what type of cotton should be used, as different variations of cotton can produce different results; cotton sourced from further afield will cost more money to import, but can be bought at a greater volume, however in certain countries there may be a restriction on businesses outside the country that produces the cotton using their resources. This is why it is important for the production company to be audited, so that the organisation has understand about where their materials are coming from, how it affects the economy and environment of the country where the raw material is sourced from.
References (1)Jerseytex.com, (2016). Jerseytex, manufacturer & supplier of knitted fabric, printed fabric, fashion fabric & imported fabrics inc Ponti, Single Jersey, Jacquard, Rib knit to UK & EU - Knitted fabrics. [online] Available at: http://www.jerseytex.com/knitted-fabrics/ [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016]. (2)Satra.co.uk, (2016). Footwear Testing. [online] Available at: http://www.satra.co.uk/portal/page.php?id=42 [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016].
Task 28:Evaluate organisational and production requirements for suggested designs and garments for garments in your ranges. Develop a commercially viable fashion range to a specific brief demonstrating industry professional practices and procedures. Pick at least 8 from your range to analyse.
Product
Organisational Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
Production Requirements (Fit For Purpose & Testing)
This dress from the girl’s range is made of 90% cotton and 10% silk in the lining. It is important that the retailer makes sure that they audit the supplier so that the dress is not produced using toxic chemicals, and that any embellishment across the shoulder is secured to the product and does not come loose. This is important as anything that comes loose could be detrimental to the brand identity, and it could cause injury to the child. The size of the dress should fit the standard retail sizes. ‘Mini’ Francesca is a range that has sizes from 4 years to 11 years, and so the technical design pack must fit the design standards but also they have to make sure that the dresses are comfortable and durable despite their high end material composition.
Product requirements for this product include the fabric that is sourced and used by the supplier, and how it has to be breathable fabric and durable so that children can play, and run, and sweat, and the fabric does not transfer onto skin and that allergic reactions do not occur, making it hypo-allergenic would prevent discomfort. Children’s clothing must be rigorously tested to make sure that the clothing is not composed of toxic dyes that can have an adverse affect on the child over prolonged wear and tear of the product.
This bag is part of the girl’s range, and is made up of 95% real leather. It is important that the leather is sourced from a reputable company, and that there are no adverse affects on the environment. The bag will have a long strap, and therefore the designers must produce technical specifications that prevent the strap from choking the child, and prevent the child from getting stuck on something that could cause injury or discomfort. There needs to be a set amount of weight that can be held inside the bag, and this needs to be written within the specifications that are sent to the supplier so they can test this on the final product.
What was mentioned in the organisational requirements must be followed through at the production stage. The supplier must produce a bag that is small, safe, and does not affect the child’s ability to move and play. Using a controlled environment to test the samples, and improve the quality of the bag is important. The bag must be durable and not be affected by the weather and general wear and tear. The leather must have the ability to be wiped clean, and prevent stains or marks from affecting the product.
This trainer is part of the boy’s range. It is composed of 100% leather, and has Velcro straps. This shoe is a children’s shoe, so not only does it have to be tested the same as the other shoes in the other ranges, but it has to fit a criteria that is unique to children’s shoes; it has to be durable, flexible, allow movement in the feet as they are still growing, and it has to protect the foot from adverse conditions such as rain, snow and heat. The design specifications must outline what testing needs to be conducted; the leather must be treated so it is waterproof, and not chemicals that are toxic to young children. Boys will be using these shoes to kick balls, run around, and to prevent injury there may need to be a fit model who can test the product; or the same product can be sent out to be independently tested by a company such as Which?.
A supplier that is used to produce this shoe needs to have the capabilities to test the shoe under various controlled conditions, and have the ability to produce a report that can be held by the retailer and is valid to prove that the shoe is fit for purpose. The supplier that is used could have a history of producing high quality children’s products. They must be able to produce a wide range of sizes, to specific industry standards.
This leather jacket is 90% leather, and 10% silk. This leather jacket is the stand out piece in the collection. The organisation requirements for this product is to include technical specifications that can improve the fit of the product, and the structure. It is a formal jacket, but the customer may use it as an everyday coat for their child, therefore specific testing must be included in the design pack when it is sent to the supplier. It must be easy to wear, with safety checks on the zip and the pockets.
The production requirements include a controlled environmental chamber that can test the durability of the jacket, and how it is affected by extreme weather conditions; it could make the colour run in the leather, or the silk may become damp. Different methods may have to be used to prevent mould developing inside the lining, and these will have to be tested to make sure there is no risk to the child.
Task 29: Evaluation: how will external factors determine how you will develop your range? Pick at least 3 factors and analyse. The four ranges that I will introduce into the Miss Francesca Couture brand evoke a popular trend that stood out whilst I conducted an invasive trend forecasting report. As the buyer of the four new ranges it was important to understand what trends were popular with the competitors of Miss Francesca Couture as well as those that were not competing with the brand on the same level but were producing similar clothing for higher and lower prices. The Women’s range consists of 19 products, the Men’s range consists of 13 products, the Boy’s range consists of 10 products, and the Girl’s range consists of 13 products. It was important that the fabric that was sourced for the four ranges was cost effective to the Miss Francesca Couture brand, as it is an independent boutique and may not have been able to fund numerous fabrics whilst keeping the quality high, and the sourcing within the UK. Therefore the fabrics that I chose to use was utilised within all four ranges; the main fabrics were silk, cotton, jersey cotton, wool, and leather, amongst other materials used for footwear in each range. The reasoning behind using high quality materials was that as a high end boutique I felt as the buyer that I could not do the brand justice by having the materials used being of a poorer quality and being sourced outside the UK, as this could reflect badly on the brand and the brand’s identity of being a high end boutique could be questioned by the customer. A
disadvantage of using high quality materials is the importance of the technical design pack that would be sent to the suppliers around the UK. There was no room for wastage, all fabric had to be used in order for the costing to be level and for the costings to be in line with the financial spreadsheets For the women’s garments the sizing would be the same as the current range available to women at Miss Francesca Couture: Small (6-10) Medium (12-14) and Large (16-18), however this could all be adjusted by the bespoke tailoring service inside the store, which could be an add on incentive for the sales assistant and increase the profits. The men’s range would consist of short, regular and long lengths in trousers and suits, and the neck size will be from 15.5 inch neck to 18 inch neck, however this sizing could be amended to include an adjustable waist to make it easier for customers to shop and ultimately increase profits and compete with lower end retailers that provide this style of product currently, like Matalan. The boy’s and girl’s ranges will follow the sizing of higher end designers like Gucci, and start from four years, up to eleven years. Amendments that could be made to the children’s ranges are that more durable materials could be used such as jersey cotton, instead of silk and cotton for the dresses, and instead of leather use PU which is of a lower quality but can be wiped clean and could last longer. The number of colour ways offered in women is five, for men’s it is 11, for boy’s it is 6, and for girl’s it is 14. The benefit of having different colour ways is that it is cost effective because it can increase the depth of the ranges, without increasing the number of designs and having different technical design packs. The fabric used is consistent throughout all four ranges. The lowers cost price of the women’s range is £6.66 for the £25 shirt, and the highest cost price is £78.66 for the flared coat that has an RRP of £295. For the men’s range the lowest cost price is £12 for a £45 shirt
and tie set. The highest cost price is £66.66 for the suit and kilt, and their RRP is £250. For the girl’s range lowest cost price is £8.33 and the RRP is £25. The highest cost price is £22.66 for the boots, and the highest RRP is £85. The lowest cost price in the boy’s range is the printed trainer which has a cost price of £35, and the RRP for the printed trainer is £105. It is important for me as the buyer to know the cost price and RRP so that I can work out the profit margin for each product within the range and make sure that is a healthy profit margin and the company does not lose money. The formula I used to calculate the cost price was the take 20% VAT off the RRP and then divide that by 1.2, and divide that again by 2.5. The margin is RRP-Cost Price which equals the gross profit, and gross profit divided by RRP and multiply that to get the margin. The sizes that are available fit the field research that I conducted and the market research that I conducted at the beginning of this unit. The sizes had to be suitable for the target market, and I believe that all four ranges are suitable for the target market. The place of manufacture that I the buyer chose for the four ranges was the UK. The reasoning behind this is because it would be easier to visit the suppliers if they were in the UK, as Miss Francesca Couture is within the UK and therefore there will be no extra expenses to travel to a supplier on the other side of the world, like in Bangladesh for example. Not only is it cheaper to ship the products to the warehouse from the UK suppliers, it is easier to communicate and negotiate with the suppliers to get the best price to produce the range. The production requirements for the four ranges are important; some items like the boots and clothes in the children’s ranges, will need to be tested and safe for children to use which could cost money and therefore any savings from transporting and time saved in the critical path can help the quality controllers conduct those tests. The order quantities for each product is outlined in the financial spreadsheet. The order quantities have been chosen by me, the buyer, due to the trend forecasting I conducted. I found that some key pieces for the autumn/winter 2016 seasons such as coats, boots, and winter warming jumpers would need to be ordered at a higher quantity. In the competitive shop I found that within the MET Quarter were the first Miss Francesca Couture shop was situated had several competitors that surrounded them. Those competitors include Phase Eight and House of Celeb Boutique. Both of those stores sell their products at the higher end of the spectrum and the majority of their ranges are targeted towards the formal wear market. The results of the competitive shop showed that there was a growing market for evening wear specialist retailers like Miss Francesca Couture, I was able to use the pricing that I found in the competitive stores as a guide when pricing the four new ranges for Miss Francesca Couture. I was influenced by their pricing, as I was unsure where the new ranges would be within the overall high end boutique market. The directional shop helped me during the designed process, and I could see what products looked like and how much they cost and the composition of the products. This too influenced the ranges, especially for the children’s ranges as they were initially not in the competitive shop that I first conducted. There is a difference in pricing throughout the four ranges, with the most expensive items found in the women’s range due to the more specific detailing in the products and the fact that Miss Francesca Couture already had a women’s range and I was able to build on that, and add more depth to it with more casual products and shoes which caused the pricing of that range to vary from high to medium to allow different customers to buy from the range, and fit the customer profile that I had created for the new range. With the children’s ranges they were priced on the lower end of the high end pricing scale, this was because it could be easier for different demographics to buy from the range, whilst also meeting the target market of a working family. Due to the sizing of the children’s ranges I could set the pricing lower because it could be cheaper to produce. This allowed me to introduce embellishment in the girl’s range, as there was more freedom to spend on extras that would set the range a part from the competitors that can be found in Monsoon and Debenhams etc. The profit margin was similar in the women’s, men’s and girl’s range at 73.33% however for the boy’s range it was 66.66%. I believe this could be because the boy’s range had fewer products, with the same high quality material that was used throughout all four ranges. I could make amendments in the future of the boy’s range by adding more products that are more casual, and therefore more colour ways could be introduced, and therefore the profit margin could be higher. For the more expensive items the quantity was lower, to keep the costing low, but the cheaper items that can be utilised more in different outfits have a larger quantity, this is so that there is more opportunity to increase profits, and have a great depth in the range. The products will be displayed in store but I do not believe there is a stock room in the Miss Francesca Couture shop at the MET Quarter, so the few products that would be stocked may only be women’s products and accessories. However, the majority of the business is online. As part of the re-branding of Miss Francesca Couture a new website will be launched that will be easier to navigate and will be competing with Miss Francesca Couture’s main rivals House of Celeb Boutique. The edge that MFC has is that their products are made in the UK, which can be a great tagline in the labelling of the clothes and also in the store visuals. The overall cost for the four ranges is estimated at £907,729.04. The overall RRP for the four ranges is £3,223,250. This means that the gross profit could be £2,315,520.96 over the 28 week selling period. This is only an estimation and this could change due to external factors such as the UK leaving the EU, changes in government policy, or a sudden economic downturn similar to that of the 2008 financial crisis. All of these factors could cause the company to lose money, and it could cause the company to go into the red.
However, the hope is that introducing the four ranges into the Miss Francesca Couture brand will help increase brand awareness, and the ultimate business strategy is to increase the number of stores that Miss Francesca Couture has, and then if that proves financially successful then there could be an opportunity to expand globally, similar to the e-commerce global expansion.
Task 29: Evaluation: how will external factors determine how you will develop your range? Pick at least 3 factors and analyse. One of the tasks within this unit I had to conduct a PESTLE analysis on Miss Francesca Couture. It was using this method of analysis that I could find out external factors that could affect the business as a whole and what could affect me, the buyer, developing the four ranges for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. The political factors that I determined could be a liability to the brand’s national and multinational development was the pension scheme coming affect in 2015. This pension scheme outlined by the government is a way for employees to pay into a pension that they may never have thought about and get their boss to match the amount that they pay in(2). This could hinder an independent retailer like Miss Francesca Couture, who employ a sales assistant, and a bespoke tailoring service with seamstresses. If Miss Francesca Couture’s competitors who may have a higher gross of profit and a growing business expansion into online and in different cities, it could cause the seamstresses within Miss Francesca Couture to leave for a better job, and Miss Francesca Couture may not be able to provide a bespoke tailoring service that could help in the marketing of the new ranges. Even though the ranges will be produced by UK based suppliers, there could be a significant amount of customers who may want to alter that product after buying it to make it fit their body shape much better. If that service is lost, than Miss Francesca Couture could lose their edge in the competitive retail market. In order to prevent this from occurring it is important that Miss Francesca Couture follows government legislation, and help their workers achieve a greater equality within their place of work. It could affect future ranges, and the development of this range if there was no longer a stream of money coming from the bespoke part of their company. In regards to how technology can affect the development of the four ranges, it could help the development of the range if Miss Francesca Couture promoted the range online with sponsored posts on Facebook, and also developing products that could be associated with technology, like phone covers, and also they could use technology to create a customer survey to find out what the customer wants from the new Miss Francesca Couture ranges, and how they can use that information to develop ranges that are more customer focused before they even begin to design the ranges. (1) Another external factor that could affect the development of a range is if the UK leaves the EU. In June 2016 there will be a referendum that the UK will hold. If the UK decides to leave the EU, there could be a wealth of problems that may arise for businesses.(3) Trade could be affected, because currently we have a ‘single market’ with ‘…goods passing through member states as if they are one…’ (3) If the UK leaves the EU new treaties will need to be negotiated and trade will definitely be affected. Contracts will change, and will revert to old contracts from before the referendum. This can affect sourcing of materials, workers, and imports and exports. Moreover, the effect on the sterling could cause the strength of the sterling to dip, and go into decline which can affect the budget the buyer has to build the range, and the cost of the raw materials will most likely become more expensive. This is a huge decision that may not affect people on a singular level, but as an employee it and in a business sense it can affect the development of new ranges, expansion opportunities. The economy is on the up, and after the financial crash there has been an increase in consumer spending to £291740 GBP million, in the third quarter of 2015, from £289515 GBP million in the second quarter of 2015. This shows that there is financial progress within the
UK economy, and that this could be an important time for Miss Francesca Couture to introduce four ranges when economic growth in the UK has potential. Not only could this affect the range, and the profit of the range, but it could also help the brand in introducing more ranges in the future. Miss Francesca Couture could increase their profits with the four new ranges, and this could help them expand in a healthy economic climate. However, what goes up must come down, and the economy cannot successfully continue to rise without a dip or a crash. Therefore, it is important that the success of this range is compared against the economic climate before any more money is fed into the budget for the future ranges. With economy high currently, this can help in the development of the next range, as there will be more demand from the target market to produce a range of a higher quality at the higher end of the retail spectrum, which is good new for Miss Francesca Couture, a growing independent business. Technology is an important part of any business, and it would be naïve for any business to neglect technology in the year 2016. Miss Francesca Couture does not have a website that is easy to navigate, and it is not easy for customers to order products from the website. As part of the business plan and branding of the four ranges a new website will be launched that will be compatible with all operating systems. It will have a more complex website that can be used by any customer in any country. There are so many advancements in technology, included mobile phone apps, that have been introduced by major retailers, that Miss Francesca Couture could develop and use to promote the launch of the range, and help the development of the ranges.
To conclude this unit I will discuss the different tasks that I studied and wrote about in the context of the four ranges for the Miss Francesca Couture brand. The first task I had to do was to research independent retailers, from that task I decided on Miss Francesca Couture as the independent retailer I would examine further and develop four new ranges for. The reasoning behind this was because it is a Liverpool based company, with a fantastic location of its flagship store, and I knew people who had bought products from there and had them tailored with the bespoke service. I felt that this brand could be developed further, and introducing new ranges would do this. During Task 3 I attempted to contact the owner of the store Francesca Kearns who I had met when visiting the store during the class trip, however she did not respond to my emails and I did not see her in the store again. This was unfortunate, but I had enough information that I gathered on my own through visiting the store and looking at the website that I could successfully produce an indepth report. For the competitive shop I conducted an in-depth competitive shop of numerous brands that sell similar products in the women’s wear range of Miss Francesca Couture. I found that there was a varied price structure, and style, but that they all had great fabric quality, and high end designs throughout their ranges. From this task I was able to come up with the ideas I could use for the women’s range, the pricing structure, and the fabric compositions. Now that I understood everything about the brand, and had a good grasp of what I could bring to the brand, it was time to look at tradeshows, and the trends that were coming out of PURE London. PURE London is a great trade show that can help buyers find small independent brands to bring into their bigger stores as concessional brands, or just promote their stores to different people within the industry that could help illuminate the brand to influential people within the global retail industry. The trends that I researched was Aspire, Allure, Spirit, Footwear, and Accessories. This was a great opportunity for me find out about different brands and if they were successful in their branding of their range. Therefore when I began to build the four ranges for Miss Francesca Couture I would have a clear idea as the buyer as to what the ranges would look like, and they could be directly targeted to each market with a clear trend. For this unit I also had to start a blog. I had started numerous blogs before I started this course, and I know how hard it is to make time to post on the blog, so I knew this could be a difficult task. However, this task on visual merchandising was a great beginning to this blog. I talked about different global brands that have different ways of advertising their product, especially over the Christmas period. It was interesting to see how visual merchandising can affect the promotion of a range, and I was able to use what I had learnt when thinking of the visual merchandising that could be used for the four new ranges at Miss Francesca Couture.
Task 29: Evaluation: how will external factors determine how you will develop your range? Pick at least 3 factors and analyse. The trend forecasting that I conducted in this unit was the most thorough and in-depth report I had ever done for this course. It was hard work, but I found that it helped me greatly in the development of the four ranges for Miss Francesca Couture. Not only do I find ten different designers expressing similar trends, I looked at menswear, children’ and women’s wear designers to find out what trends for autumn/winter 2016 were popular and could equal financial success for the Miss Francesca Couture ranges. I also conducted trend research on Pinterest, as this not only shows a different perspective to using WGSN for trend-forecasting, I was able to find out what trends the public felt were popular, and therefore what the target markets deemed important to them so I could build my range in a way that it was fitting with the major trend of the season, which I found was the seventies ‘nu-dandy’ trend. I then had to complete a directional shop, which is different to a competitive shop as it looks at different ends of the retail spectrum, from designer to fast fashion. From this I could find out what the pricing structure was, the quality of the garments, and the difference in styles. I found that nearly all of them showed a similar style to that of Miss Francesca Couture, and therefore I felt confident that I could produce an on-trend range for all four target markets, and that it could be successful.
Now I could look at where I would source the materials and suppliers from. I found that using focused sourcing would be more beneficial to the Miss Francesca Couture brand as that way there could be no delay in the critical path, and lead times could be met on time, if there was ever an issues involving the supplier; for example, they went into administration, or there was a natural disaster such as a flood, that could halt production and affect the products. During this task I found out more information about ethical trading, and the importance of auditing suppliers, and making sure that I as the buyer was well aware of any problems that could affect the production of the four ranges; such as strikes, in-humane working conditions, and problems with the countries legal system that could prevent the import and export of goods. This was another reason why I chose to have the range manufactured in the UK, as it would be safer and the risk of anything going wrong would be lower Now I knew where the ranges would be produced, and the advantages and disadvantages, I could create the four ranges with a wider range of knowledge and understand of the retail industry on a global scale, and the decisions that I would make would informed decisions. This was the first unit where we all studied lead times, shipping costs, and the importance of the critical path. Lead times are important for a buyer as they help the buying team, the merchandising team, and the executives, monitor the development of the range during the production and the shipping. It was important to understand the costs of containers, boxes, and how saving money is integral when producing a range. For example, you cannot have one shirt in a box if it cannot fit into a container, therefore maybe remove the container and see how many shirts can fit into a box. Therefore, it could reduce the costing of shipping dramatically. This helped me understand the importance of calculations and problems solving as a buyer, as for this range the suppliers will come from the UK, but in the future they may come from five different countries, with different methods of transportation. I would need to save the company that I work for a lot of money in shipping and reduce the lead times accordingly without over spending and incurring extra time along the critical path. I also have to make sure that I take into account the development of the range, and how the samples will need to be produced which could cost money depending on how many samples the buyer has made at any one time, as amendments may need to be made which could cost time and affect the critical path, and the right supplier needs to be found that can follow the technical design pack and can be effective in producing the range within the lead times that the company gives them. All of this is crucial steps when developing the four ranges. I conducted a brainstorm of all the problems and constraints that could arise in various different stages of the critical path; for example the warehouse, it needs to be close to a road that is close to the store, and has access roads around it that the supplier can get to from their destination. This costs money as the warehouse will be in a competitive location, and then there has to be security installed around the warehouse and security guards that protect the goods from thieves. The products also have to be in a controlled environment in case mould occurs. All of these problems and constraints can affect all stages of the critical path, and the warehouse example was only one of them. As a buyer it is important to be aware of all the problems that could arise throughout the production process and how that can affect lead times, and the critical path. The financial spreadsheet is important for the four ranges, we only had to complete one but I did one for every range because I felt it was important for me to do them all and I felt that it helped me in my understanding of financial spreadsheets, as I do struggle with mathematical tasks sometimes, but now I have more confidence. However, for the financial spreadsheets which I did at home alone, I missed out a step during the process. I found the replenishment number (15% of the total quantity) for each individual product instead of the overall replenishment number, this meant that when I completed it the way I was supposed to my numbers were off slightly. I accept this was a problem, and my financial spread sheets are not to the standard they should be, however I feel like I understand what I did wrong, and can rectify this in my Final Major Project. Even though it was not asked of us to complete a WSSI, I wanted to attempt one to see how it was done as I might have to complete a WSSI when I become a professional buyer in the future. I found that it was simple to use, and it was good in informing me as the buyer the important of having the correct quantity of items, including the replenishment number. Not only did I find out how difficult it was to estimate the number of products that could be sold, but if I compared that to how many were actually sold it could affect the number of items that I have if the product is a best seller, or alternatively if the product is not selling well then further reductions could be put in place to promote the sale of that product, so there is not increase in expense to the company for housing the over stock in the warehouse. Lastly the range was tested to make sure it was fit for purpose, and any amendments were discussed. I chose eight items, two from each range, and discussed the organisational and production requirements for each, and then on a separate slide I took those same eight products and brainstormed what amendments I could make to those products that could save the company money, and could increase the profits of the range. The production requirements and organisation requirements were quite similar, and in this task I found that the quality of the product is very important and there are companies that can be used by different
brands to conduct tests on footwear and apparel, such as controlled environmental testing chambers that can use searing heat and icy cold temperatures to test the products capabilities under extreme stress. It is important that the product is not faulty, and can serve the customer for a long time. It is especially important as this brand is on the high end spectrum, and therefore if there were to be any faults or dangers that could arise due to toxic dyes etc, it can have detrimental affects to the brand on a PR level, and could cause profit loss in the future. The branding of the four ranges is quite simplistic. I created four advertising concept boards as the foundation for the advertising campaigns. I believe that the four ranges should evoke an aspirational lifestyle quality, since the customer profiles are about bringing in customers who want to look good, love to take care of themselves, and have a penchant for the luxurious lifestyles that celebrities lead. Therefore I took inspiration from the Michael Kors adverts, with fancy cars, private jets, and lavish holiday destinations as the backdrop for the clothes, to make them look better than the competition. I am not suggesting going to New York or Dubai to shoot the campaign, but a backdrop in a studio in Liverpool could be used to convey the same message, and it would fit in with the kitsch styling of the range. It is important that the styling and the branding match the target market and the range, as it is the first point of call for the customer. To conclude this unit, I believe this unit was a success, and I have learnt so much more about each topic within the buying profession. I now feel more confident in my Photoshop skills, and the use of Photoshop Illustrator as another creative output as a buyer. I can use excel without fear, and I feel very prepared to start the Final Major Project.
References (1)Forbes, (2016). OracleVoice: 10 Technology Trends That Will Revolutionize Retail. [online] Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/oracle/2014/01/13/10-technology-trends-that-will-revolutionizeretail/#2715e4857a0b4969fda063d8 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016]. References (2)GK, T. (2014). Simple advice and information for independent retailers ahead of pensions law changes - betterRetailing. [online] betterRetailing. Available at: http://www.betterretailing.com/simple-advice-retailers-ahead-changes-pensions-law/ [Accessed 20 Jan. 2016].
References (3)Ashfords LLP, (2016). The Brexit - What Retailers Should be Aware of. [online] Available at: http://www.ashfords.co.uk/the-brexit-what-retailers-should-be-aware-of/ [Accessed 4 Mar. 2016].
Group Work: Articles Task. Legal and Environmental by Abi Owens (In a group with Tilly, Alice, Daniella) “Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka have bought back the rights to their label from former owners Iconix Brand Group for $16 million in cash. The deal which is a joint venture with footwear licensee Titan Industries Inc and apparel licensee MJCLK LLC will see them take charge of the bran they founded 27 years ago for the first time in over a decade…” Vogue, 2016. This comes after a ‘wave’ of criticism in the past year with the financial stability of the Iconix brand coming into question, and former CEO Nil Cole being investigated by the US Security and Exchange Commission. Musician Pharrell Williams bought back the rights to his BBC Ice Cream
label from Iconix recently, this shows that the scrutiny of its business plan and financial well being is still on going. A business like Iconix is good for the retail sector, as they can help a brand that is starting out or one that is struggling, and provide financial know-how to the owners and they can also promote the brand through different mediums, and success could be quicker. However, it is also a negative part of owning a business as some contracts may not be so easily bought out of for a non-famous owner.
References Vogue UK, (2016). Badgley Mischka Designers Buy Back Name. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2016/03/02/badgley-mischka-buy-back-name-from-iconix [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016].
Group Work: Articles Task. Legal and Environmental by Abi Owens (In a group with Tilly, Alice, Daniella)
Introduction of the ‘charge for a plastic bag’ policy has become a phenomenon. There is now global initiatives in place to protect the planet, and the government charge is a small victory for environmentalists. The policy was launched in February 2016 on a Sunday. It conceded with the National Waste Awareness Day. It has been implemented in seven major cities; Bandung, Boger, Binda, Acuh, Surabaya, Tangerang, and Balikpapon. They are home to almost 10 percent of the countries 250 million people. Bandung has a bylaw in place in opposition to the government policy, but the other cities currently do not. Not only is this a success for climate awareness campaigners, but it shows that governments can legally prevent further damage to our planet. “Bandung’s 2012 by law on plastic bags reduction only stipulates that retailers have an obligation to provide customers with environmentally friendly plastic bags; it mentions nothing about charging extra for using a plastic bag…” (Jakarta Post, 2016) However over 70,000 signatures on a petition to charge for plastic bags shows that the public does not mind and they want to protect the planet. The global perception on climate change has change dramatically, and now retailers and governments are joining together to prevent the continued abuse of plastic bags. It seems like a small victory, but if every country partakes in the reduction of plastic bags, then our children will not know any different when it comes to paying for a plastic bag, and in turn we will all be saving the planet. This is difficult for independent retailers as they may lose their customers who do not wish to pay for a bag, but it can also help the independent retailer from spending so much on plastic bags each month.
References Thejakartapost.com, (2016). Residents ready for plastic bag charge. [online] Available at: http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2016/02/19/residents-ready-plastic-bag-charge.html [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016].
Group Work: Articles Task. Legal and Environmental by Abi Owens (In a group with Tilly, Alice, Daniella)
Happy Mango is an Eco-Friendly store in Atlanta, Georgia. The store provides non-toxic toys for children and has room for mothers to breastfeed within the store. The owner speaks about the potential the brand has, and how parents do not necessarily have to understand or have to be involved in climate change prevention. However, there are hopes that this store will increase the awareness surrounding products and their ability to change
the environment for good or for bad. “The Happy Mango owner believes it is a good time to open the store because parents are more knowledgeable about the chemicals and toxicity issues‌â€? The positive of this is that it proves there is a niche in the market for environmentally friendly products and retail store around the world. It is not just about providing a supply to suit the demand for environmentally friendly products, it is to make families comfortable and show them a lifestyle they can achieve. As a buyer there is a gap in the market for a eco-friendly range, and this can be seen with the marks and spencer Fairtrade range, and H&M becoming more eco-aware as a company.
References Decaturish, (2016). Happy Mango eco-friendly baby store opening in Kirkwood - Decaturish. [online] Available at: http://www.decaturish.com/2016/03/happy-mango-eco-friendly-babystore-opening-in-kirkwood/ [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016].
Group Work: Articles Task. Legal and Environmental by Abi Owens (In a group with Tilly, Alice, Daniella)
“Britain’s retailers are on track to meet voluntary targets to cut the environmental impact of their operations by 2020 according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC) latest progress report…” (Resource.com, 2016). According to the article it states that UK retailers have reduced the amount of waste created by 26%. This is an astonishing amount and shows how much waste was being created by retailers and how this may have changed the environment forever, until the BRC changes were introduced.
However, recent economic downturn in the price of oil has lead to 2 closures of the UK’s largest plastic recycling plants in 2015, (Resource.com, 2016). This is devastating to the cause of all environmental campaigners. It is important that big businesses are actively pursuing better methods of getting rid of waste, and this is across all retailer businesses across the world. It is too easy for retailers to blame a change in the economy for them to not continue pursuing an environmentally waste management programme. If 26% of the waste produced has reduced since the BRC plans came into affect, it is extraordinary to imagine how much waste was being produced over the last two decades and how that has had a profound affect on our Earth over that short amount of time. Buyers can help promote the conservation of the environment by finding new ways to source products that protects the environment. References Resource.co, (2016). Retailers on track to meet ‘ambitious’ environmental targets | Resource Magazine. [online] Available at: http://resource.co/article/retailerstrack-meet-%E2%80%98ambitious%E2%80%99-environmental-targets-10921 [Accessed 3 Mar. 2016].