Top- quality olive oils in gastronomy

hills in the island’s hinterland. Oblica and šoltanka (levatinka) sorts prevail. Olive growers from Šolta pick their olives manually. Oils of šoltanka sort have significant aromas of green grass, apple and almond. They are of medium intensity of bitterness and piquancy. The association Zlatna Šoltanka comprises little family farms that on their own do not produce sufficient quantities of olive oil to be present on the market. The association encourages ecological production of high- quality olive oils. Olive oil from Šolta is a blend of different ecological oils produced by its members and it has been awarded numerous international awards. In its assortment, under the brand Šolta Olive Oil Organic Super Premium, there is oil made of šoltanka sort, under Šolta Olive Oil there is a blend of šoltanka and oblica sorts and under Premium Blend there is oil made of the same sorts.

On the island of Korčula the prevailing sorts are lastovka, drobnica and oblica. Lastovka has the aromas of the green grass, apple, artichoke and almond, with very intense piquancy and even more intense bitterness. The oldest sort drobnica renders oil of intense piquancy and less bitterness, with the green aromas of the olive fruit and tomato leaf prevailing.

Important manufacturers from the island of Korčula are: Fanito whose olive groves are located in Vela Luka, a town well- known for its long olive- growing tradition, produces extra virgin olive oils under the brand Torkul. Their assortment covers oils of lastovka and drobnica sort and the blend Torkul (lastovka and drobnica). This year they have produced a limited edition of 437 bottles of Torkul Frane, made of pitted olives and Torkul Fanito with gold leaves- a limited edition of 131 bottles.

Blato 1902 produces olive oil Marko Polo Gold, certified as Korčula olive oil, made of autochthonous sorts lastovka and drobnica. Marko Polo oil is made of lastovka, drobnica and oblica sorts. The tradition of oil making in Blato goes back to the ancient times. In mediaval times, its glory was spread around the world by the world traveller, seafarer and discoverer Marko Polo, born in Korčula and a symbol of this island. He carried the local oil on all of his journeys.

Continuous excellency is the result of the efforts and passion of Croatian oil makers. Their experience and knowledge have been dedicated to production of top- quality extra virgin olive oils. Numerous awards from international and local competitions represent an excellent promotion of Croatian extra virgin olive oils.

Top- quality olive oils in gastronomy

Extra virgin olive oil is a high- quality product in gastronomy, an ingredient which, due to its typical fruity aromas and spicy and bitter flavours provides many possibilities for different combinations, highlighting its freshness and emphasizing individual components of the dish. Recognizing all the beauty and positive features differing according to its sort, the oil plays the lead role in the kitchen and enriches the food creating new flavours, smells and aromas. We can divide extra virgin oils to monosort and blend oils. Monosort oils are made from one sort of olives and represent the area they come from. It is the climate, the altitude and the geographical position that give the oil its character. Blend oils are made by mixing different sorts of olives in different percentages aiming to achieve balanced aromas, flavours, bitterness ad piquancy and trying to please different affinities of consumers.

Very often the bitterness and piquancy are deemed as negative features. On the contrary, they are the sign of phenol presence in the oil and phenols are a powerful antioxidant. They protect the oil from oxidizing, prolong its duration and have positive impacts on human health. The higher the intensity of bitterness and piquancy there are, the richer is the oil with phenols.

In order to identify which oils are better suited for certain dishes, we can divide extra virgin olive oils according to the degree of intensity, from mild, medium to high intensity of fruitiness. It represents all present aromas in the oil made from healthy, fresh, partly matured or almost fully matured olives. Factors

such as maturity of the fruit at the moment of harvesting, air temperature, level of precipitation, manner of storing and processing have important roles. Other associations such as almond, artichoke, bananas, walnuts, chicory, aromatic herbs, Camilla, green or mature olive fruit, tomato leaf, apple, citrus, eucalyptus… may also be present.

Oils with mild intensity of fruitiness are characterized by extremely sweet and gentle smells mainly accompanied by mild, pleasant bitterness and piquancy, e.g. the oil sorts like buharica and oblica. These oils shall be used with all dishes of gentle flavour such as seafood salad, fish soup, cottage cheese spread, scampi risotto, grilled hake and sole, pasta with shellfish and ice- cream. Gentle oil will add freshness and creamy structure to the dishes.

Harmonious oils or oils of medium intensity of fruitiness are harmonious and well- balanced oils with a perfect balance of aromas and flavours and a more significant bitterness and piquancy than that of the oils with a mild intensity of fruitiness. These are mostly sorts like buža, karbonaca, plominka, šimjaca, drobnica, levatinka (šoltanka) and different blends. They are perfect in combination with grilled vegetables, thick zucchini and pea soups, tomato- based sauces, roast seabass and seabream, asparagus omelette, roast duck breast, meat dishes of stronger flavours like lamb and veal, meat and fish carpaccio, mild and semi- hard cheeses.

Oils of strong intensity of fruitiness are oils of extremely intensive, strong smell and flavour, fully- bodied, with significant bitter and spicy notes, but not unbalanced. These are usually istarska bjelica and lastovka sort. They work best with structured food such as steaks, grilled vegetables, legume soups, pork dishes, venison stew, sardines, grilled mackerel and bonito, steak tartare and hard cheeses.

Olive oil that has not been thermally processed has the best qualities and nutritive value and it can be used in different culinary techniques. It is perfect for marinating with addition of herbs, garlic and lemon. Fish and meat will have more flavour and better structure. To marinate fish, chicken and turkey we use oils of mild or medium intensity of fruitiness. For beef, lamb and venison we use oils of strong intensity of fruitiness.

Olive oil is an integral part of many sauces and spreads such as mayonnaise to which it adds a new dimension of flavour. For example, if we want to achieve a different and defined flavour, we add a somewhat more spicy and bitter oil. It works well in desserts so for dark chocolate mousse or creamy chocolate cake like Sacher Cake we can use oils with significant piquancy and bitterness.

A very popular and re- discovered is confit technique, coming from France, used for preserving food, especially duck meat. It has been modernized and it is often used for fish, meat and vegetables soaked in olive oil of strong or medium intensity of fruitiness, slowly cooked at low temperature (between 60 and 90°C, depending on the ingredient). The result will be spectacular, we will have very tender and aromatic dish, all thanks to olive oil. Olive oil is ideal for frying, stewing and roasting because it contains a high degree of oleic acid, tocopherol and polyphenol, protecting it from disintegration at high temperatures. The most interesting technique is spherification in molecular gastronomy where skilful, talented chefs turn olive oil into small spheres similar to caviar. When they reach our palate, they melt and bring out the explosion of flavours and aromas. Olive oil powder is also unique. Its most modern application is in cocktails, a few drops can be found in Bloody Mary, too.

Playing with different sorts of olive oil results in creative dishes of unique flavours.

Top- quality extra virgin should be paid due attention and its wide potential should be used in gastronomy, in the same way wine is already used. More intensive education of catering personnel could contribute to better quality of offer and service and also to spreading of the culture of Croatian top- quality extra virgin olive oil.

Marina Selak Sommelier and sensory analyst for olive oils

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