the gentlewoman Issue n ° 17, Autumn & Winter 2017
UK £6.50
Gabrielle Union
USA $ 15.99
The Gentlewoman Issue n° 17 Autumn & Winter 2017 Part One:.................................................................................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ................................................. ................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. Model Hillary Ho becoming one with Portuguese buildings. Here, she is wearing a breathable anorak by Tommy Hilfiger. ........................................ ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................. ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... Jo Malone London ........................................................................... 6 – 7 ................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................. ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................. Profiles: ...................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... Carly Cushnie ........................................................................................... Michelle Ochs .................................................................................. 4 – 5 ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... Gabrielle Union ............................................................................. 8 – 15 ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................. Valentino: .................................................................................................. Resort .......................................................................................... 16 – 22 ................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................... A final word .......................................................................................... 15
First take.
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Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs entered the fashion industry as interns at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Scholar. They had no idea that their brand, Cushnie et Ochs, was soon to compete with the big brands that they used to work for. The designing duo, both 33, established their fashion brand in 2008, just a year after graduating from Parson’s School of Design, New York. Since then, Carly and Michelle have defined a new era of sophisticated woman’s eveningwear, dressing the world’s most powerful women, Michelle Obama being one of them. They have expanded their creations internationally in over 150 outlets, including Bergdorf Goodman. Having accomplished this in less than a decade, it is clear that the future of CEO is only going to be a promising one.
Interview Abla Ebbiary Portrait Bergdorf Goodman
Abla: You two are very close friends. What is your personal
A: Your vision is clearly appealing to sophisticated women
and business friendship like?
worldwide, including the stunning Michelle Obama!
design?
Carly: We’ve known each other since junior year at
M: Yes, she wore our dress for the Christmas in Washington
M: It’s about the evolution. It’s about constantly creating
Parson’s, that’s how we became friends, and our friendship
TV special. We did not expect it at all! She wore our
work and seeing the influences that we were exposed to at
evolved into this business. We have a deep understanding
sweetheart, halter neckline dress in emerald green – so
the time, and how our work can change as we do. There’s
of each other. We have the same vision, but there’s two
festive and perfect for the occasion.
also something so gratifying about creating a collection of
personalities, two perspectives, two processes between us. When we collaborate, we are our strongest.
C: It was such an honour. Not only was she the most powerful woman in the world, she is a fashion icon that
A: What appeals to you so much about the art of fashion
work. A collection can have several different items that are unique, yet have synergy at the same time.
Michelle: If you look at our collections, you can see contrasts
represents our brand’s values. That occasion was definitely
C: Each item we design has a personality of its own. If
between soft and harsh lines, textures and shapes. It’s not
a turning point for the brand. She brought our designs even
that design makes a woman feel more beautiful, more
that one of us is soft while the other is harsh, but both of us
more international recognition. Actually, shortly after the
intelligent, more whole, that is what makes the art so much
combined makes a good balance.
event, we had booked 25 appointments for the forthcoming
more appealing.
C: Creatively, Michelle is more tailored, while I’m more
collection, including Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong!
drapey and fluid. She’s very strict in her organization, which helps get the job done. She’s an immense planner and a methodical worker. That’s just one of her strengths. All in all, we work really well as a team. Funnily enough, it
A: Cushnie et Ochs has announced it’s handbag debut, A: Who would you say are your mentors? Or most admired public figures?
are you excited? C: We’re so excited. It’ s a big step, but we’re one step
wasn’t until after Parson’s that we talked about a niche that
M: I have always looked up to Zaha Hadid. The way she
closer to dressing our women from head-to-toe. We reached
we thought we could fill.
used lines, shape and form within her architecture was
a place where we were ready to expand our diversity,
nothing short of innovation. Her work will continue to
maintaining a high level of quality while remaining true to
impact our approach to design.
the brand’s spirit.
C: Michelle Obama. I have never seen a first lady with such
M: The first collection includes five unique silhouettes,
honesty, intelligence and elegance. She is a leader.
which will evolve soon. All are made from calf leather
A: How would you describe this ‘niche’? C: We like to juxtapose a bold sense of sensuality with a minimalist edge. We felt like there was a gap in the market
and made in Italy. We’ve incorporated sharp lines and
for simple, yet sexy clothing for sophisticated women. Sexy does not always have to be outrageous. M: We like to let a woman’s most beautiful, elegant, alluring side shine.
an architectural undertone, with the hopes of creating a A: What has it been like starting a business as a woman,
C: We never expected it to happen. We thought we would work for a brand after we graduate, but the opportunity sort of fell into our laps. However, being a female Cushnie
A: How does a woman’s body influence the dresses of
et Ochs within the fashion industry is hard to come by,
Cushnie et Ochs?
sadly, even though this industry is essentially for us. There
M: Our dresses focus a lot on form, shape and lines, features every woman body has in their own unique way.
are not many female names or voices in this industry so starting a business was definitely a risk. Customers can tell that Cushnie et Ochs is all designed by women, by the
C: As women, and female designers, we want to feel and
fabrics we use, the way things are lined, because you don’t
look sexy, realistically. Unlike most male designers, we
have to but something else underneath or over it. I can
don’t have a sole ‘perfect’ girl or a ‘muse’. For us, she is
easily satisfy the needs and wants of the female consumer.
real; she is both of us. I like to incorporate intricate draping,
We have never been opposed to male employees; we
while Michelle prefers the precise tailoring of things, both
actually have men working in the office now. It’s just the
techniques really enhance any woman’s body shape.
way things were.
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timeless, ready-to-wear style.
and at such a young age? A: What you’ve accomplished within nine years of Cushnie et Ochs is inspiring, to say the least. What have you learnt from your journey so far? C: Learn to Listen. M: That there is more than one avenue that leads to where you want to go. Just make sure you find the right one for you. Someone else’s path is not necessarily the right one for you.
Carly Cushnie Michelle Ochs 5
the gentlewoman
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Malone London and The Gentlewoman Shops from 17th November 2017,
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accessory. Smelling as enchanting as the rest of the collection, its neutral colour will instantly become a part of your decor. It’s your choice,
Photography by Jo Malone London
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7
Stories That Are Funny, Complicated, and True, with
Gabrielle Union
We’re so used to the roles that Gabrielle Union portrays on the big screen, that we sometimes forget her true story. In a new book of anecdotes, We’re Going To Need More Wine, releasing on 17th October 2017, she talks about the experiences she tackled so gracefully, including rape, self-esteem and infertility. Photography by Tim Zaragoza, styling by Thomas Christos Kikis.
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1
Gabrielle Union
We’re so used to the roles that Gabrielle Union
resented that.” Gabrielle turned victimhood into
but always being encouraged by my parents
portrays on the big screen, that we sometimes
a symbol of survival, and since this moment,
to be bigger, badder and better. Perfect was
forget her true story. With the rest of her family,
she’s publicly embraced being a survivor of
the standard. That’s an immense amount of
Gabrielle moved to Pleasanton, California,
rape, and is utilising her position to help those
pressure to put on a child.” Not to mention,
where
studied
that are suffering in silence. She tells us “We’re
growing up in a society where the standard of
Sociology. Everything was she lived a relatively
seeing a lot of victim-blaming and shaming
beauty was Eurocentric, Gabrielle’s self-esteem
‘normal’ life until she began her acting career
right now, and for that reason, more and more
plummeted. Gabrielle recalls the crippling
in the 1990s, appearing in television sitcoms,
people are going to stay silent when they see
low self-esteem she had, as a young black,
such as Moesha and Sister, Sister. However,
the public reaction.” Sadly, we are living in a
supposedly “unattractive” girl, in a society that
her breakthrough role was in Bring It On
society at a time when we question the victim’s
praises light skin, naturally straight hair, a pointy
(2000). She is also known for her leading roles
whereabouts or dress before questioning the
nose and ‘coloured’ eyes – all which she didn’t
in Deliver Us From Eva (2003), Think Like a
perpetrators’ actions. The world has knows
possess. These thoughts as a child inspired her
Man (2012), and BET’s first original scripted
stories of women leaving work at the hospital
to create a beauty line specially for women
drama series, Being Mary Jane (2013), for
in their scrubs, getting assaulted. We know
with Afro hair.” After dealing with hair stylists
which she won an NAACP Image Award. Her
children are leaving school in their football
that didn’t know how 2
career has gone from strength to strength, and
gear, getting assaulted. Why are we still victim-
to style her hair, she
so has she. This Autumn, she’s releasing her first
questioning? Why are we still victim shaming?
got introduces to the
book, titled We’re Going To Need More Wine.
Gabrielle insists, “no one asks to be raped.
world of weave and
“Throughout my life, I’ve often wondered
No one has it coming. Rape can happen to
extensions,
aloud ‘How the hell did I end up here? Why
anyone, anywhere at any time. It doesn’t
immediate difference in the amount of attention
me?” Gabrielle uses that same fearlessness
matter what you had on. It doesn’t matter
I got was palpable. I felt like the longer my hair,
to tell astonishingly personal accounts about
the decisions you make. You are not alone,
the more attractive I was in the audition rooms.
race, gender, feminism, and fame. She tackles
it is not your fault, and you didn’t ask for it.”
I later realized that I was never going to have a
she
attended
UCLA
and
a range of experiences throughout her career, 1
“The
really great hair day if I didn’t do the work on
she continues, “Not
When we see Gabrielle, we see a woman
myself internally to figure out what makes me
sure I’ve ever found
with a stunning exterior and a secure interior.
happy.” Gabrielle has come so far on her hair
all the answers to
Actually, Gabrielle never felt “worthy” or
journey, that this year she launched her hair
those
care line for women with afro hair, Flawless.
questions,
talented enough” to even write a book, despite
but in this book I
having the opportunity to write one for over a
share my journey…”
decade. But we forget that nobody really likes
Most people want to become parents one
to reveal their personal struggles. “If you ask my
day, including Gabrielle, although you’d think
A young Gabrielle, aged 19, was raped at
parents they would say I was a perfect child, a
their schedule is too hectic... She opened up
gunpoint. She had a summer job at the footwear
model child, because I did everything that was
about her multiple miscarriages and struggle
shop, Payless, and was physically and sexually
asked of me. I got great grades, I was a great
with fertility. Her and her NBA star husband,
assaulted. That night, Gabrielle was wearing a
athlete, I was a student
Dwayne Wade, have been longing for a child 3
tunic and a pair of leggings, yet to this day,
leader…but what was
of their own. Gabrielle never wanted kids, but
she still gets asked what she was wearing...
going on inside, and
it wasn’t until raising three step-sons, Zaire, 15,
For years after the horrific ordeal, Gabrielle
what I was dealing
Zion, 10, and Xavier, 3, that children brought
felt trapped. She felt like the label ‘victim’ was
with individually was
her so much joy. “For three years, my body
attached to her everywhere she went. “When
absolute turmoil. I would internalise everything;
has been a prisoner of trying to get pregnant —
something catastrophic happens in your life,
I didn’t have an outlet,” she admitted.
I’ve either been about to go into an IVF cycle,
everyone rallies around you. You’re getting all
Perfection was also expected from society, “I
in the middle of an IVF cycle, or coming out of
of the attention and support that you’ve always
was a black girl, in an all white school, in an all
an IVF cycle.” Gabrielle recalls FaceTiming her
wanted, but it’s not for something positive – I
white community, never feeling good enough,
husband from New York, sharing the news that
11
Page at
8:
Gucci
Gucci.
Dolce
dress,
$13,000
&
Gabbana
earrings, $875 at 717 5th Avenue
13
Givenchy
jacket,
$6,020
Madison
Ave.
Givenchy
gloves,
and
styles
at
earrings, 747
at
for
Madison
660 pants,
similar Ave.
Gabrielle Union
No one has it coming. Rape can happen to anyone, anywhere at any time. It doesn’t matter what you had on. It doesn’t matter the decisions you make. You are not alone, it is not your fault, and you didn’t ask for it.” they were pregnant for the first time. “We were like ‘Finally, finally!’ And then literally, it felt like a few days later, to find out that we had lost the baby. And that was the first one. It’s just so devastating, and you’re also filled wit such shame because we told people. Having to call them back…” Society does put a lot of pressure on women to have children, but we never reflect on everything that comes with the territory. It’s an immense pressure. There are multiple factors that can influence people’s fertility. “For so many women, and not just women in the spotlight, people feel very entitled to know, ‘Do you want kids? A lot of people that have fertility issues, just say ‘no’ because that’s a lot easier than being honest about whatever is actually going on. People mean so well, but they have no idea the harm or frustration it can cause.” It’s shocking how common this question is, yet nobody thinks anything of it, but thankfully, 4
Gabrielle
is
optimistic,
“We’re
remaining lucky
to have people around us that support us and keep
our
Gabrielle’s
spirits
up.”
journey
has
been an eventful one. And she’s finally shared it. “We’re all so disconnected. So many people feel like they’re the only one experiencing it. They’re screaming into a hurricane and no one can hear them. Everyone needs that person to say ‘I hear you, it’s ok, I got you…” Gabrielle’s book, We’re Going To Need More
1 Bring It On
Wine, is available to buy at
2 High School
www.harpercollins.com
14
3 Being Mary Jane 4 We’re Going To Need More Wine
Page
8:
Gucci
dress,
$13,000
at Gucci. Dolce & Gabbana earrings,
$875
at
717
5th
Givenchy
jacket,
$6,020
Madison
Ave.
Givenchy
gloves, lar
and
styles
at
earrings, 747
Avenue at
660 pants,
for
simi-
Madison
Ave.
Valentino Resort Halima and Joanne take a stroll around the streets of Milan. Photography by Andrea Spotorno.
16
All clothing, footwear and accessories in this editorial are by VALENTINO.
18
20
Top:
The devistating contrast of the
cotton crewneck by TOMMY HILFIGER against
the
sleek
Prada. Hillary wears
trenchcoat
by
a dark beige
oversized trench coat by GUCCI. Bottom: Hillary weart the same silken pullover by TOMMY HILFIGER with
linen chinos by MIU MIU.
22
Last page
Photography by Cameron Kirby
A final word.
We think we have touched on everything in this issue; the particularly interested can sign up for further entertainment by joining The Gentlewoman Clun at thegentlewoman.co.uk/club. We will be back with the 18th issue in February 2018. Until then, goodbye, readers!
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Fall Winter 2017
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