CHAPTER FOUR
BOTANICAL RECIPES
NATURE’S LARDER Connect with nature as you cook – by growing, gathering or observing the provenance or season of ingredients – and let the Plant Kingdom reward you, not just with a wealth of delicious ingredients but also the inspiration with which to prepare an array of plant-forward feasts.
Looking for an easy or instant route into the botanical world? Look no further than nature’s larder, or indeed the plant-based food or drinks that you consume most regularly: fruit, vegetables, coffee, tea, rice, bread, wine or juice perhaps. Now think about how much you really know about where these foods or ingredients come from, their provenance – be it plant or region of origin – or seasonality. Take courgettes, for example. Shopbought, they would most commonly be described as ‘long, dark green vegetables with firm pale flesh’. Grow your own, and you’ll soon be aware that the fruit of the courgette plant (Cucurbita pepo) ripen around midsummer from bright orange flowers and can be harvested as baby fruit, left to grow to ‘standard size’ or until they are mature enough to be called a marrow. You can also eat the flowers, traditionally found in Italian marketplaces, ready to be stuffed, lightly battered and fried to a crisp (see page 204). If you really get into growing your own courgettes you may end up planting yellow or stripy varieties that seem to taste infinitely better than the ubiquitous green ones.You might also find such choices in local farmers’ markets or speciality shops and end up devoting disproportionate amounts of time to courgette-based conversations or debates. Should you fry them, sauté them, add them to cakes or bakes, eat raw in a salad or stewed down in a soup? Do they taste better thinly sliced on a pizza, cut lengthways in a stir-fry or stuffed whole? What’s the best courgetteflower stuffing – ricotta and basil, or do they taste better with feta and mint?
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The humble courgette serves as an inspiring example of just how versatile nature’s larder, and thus a plant-forward diet can be – a concept that an increasing number of people are latching onto. Indeed, plant-based foods are no longer relegated to the side dish or vegetarian or vegan option. Today, they are just as likely to be the gourmet stars of the show. This botanical shift is in part due to the ingredient-elevating work of plant-forward chefs such as Yotam Ottolenghi, René Redzepi, Jeremy Fox, Amanda Cohen, Alice Waters and Jeong Kwan (see www. plantforward50.com). But credit must also be given to those less lofty legions of plant-loving pioneers who tirelessly inspire others to grow their own produce, forage for wild food, eat sustainably, get to know the botanical world more intimately or, as author and activist Michael Pollan so eloquently put it in his In Defence of Food (2008), simply ‘Eat Food. Not too Much. Mostly Plants.’ It’s a sage mantra to bear in mind as you hopefully try some of the delicious recipes to follow. Plus eating ‘mostly plants’ is really not so hard considering the huge generosity of the Plant Kingdom itself. If Claire Ptak’s Fig Leaf Ice Cream (see page 201) doesn’t get you, then surely the earthy pull of Tom Harris’s Orange, Fennel Seed and Almond Cake (see page 221) or the intrigue of John Rensten’s Magnolia Flowers Lightly Pickled in Elderflower Vinegar (see page 197) will.
Opposite Garden nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), as depicted by James Sowerby for Medical Botany (1832), are entirely edible, including the flowers and seedpods (see page 191).
SPRING
Serves 1
Bernadett Vanek, Born Under the Sun, California
Pea and nettle gnudi with a braised fennel almond crema Sweet, crunchy pea tendrils are insanely delicious and stunning in salads or as a garnish. The delicate flavour and texture of early pea shoots also combines beautifully with almond ricotta, and that other spring messenger, the stinging nettle, to create lovely bite-sized dumplings called gnudi. Stinging nettle has to be blanched to lose its bite, but after that the nutrient-rich leaves also work well in teas, soups, sauces and oils. Add a nutty almond cream and a touch of zingy lemon juice to the pea tendrils and blossoms and you have a dish that’s fresh, vibrant and full of springy pea flavour.
Large bunch of stinging nettles (enough to make 55g/¼ cup of blanched nettles) 150g (1 cup) peas 135g (1 cup) whole almonds Nutritional yeast, to taste Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 clove garlic (optional), smashed 1 large fennel bulb (or 2 small ones), sliced, reserving the fronds for garnish 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle A little vegetable stock (optional) 240ml (1 cup) almond milk Pinch of cayenne pepper and ground nutmeg (optional) Pea shoots and blossoms, to garnish Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
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For the almond ricotta, soak the almonds overnight in a bowl of cold water. The next day, drain and remove the skins, then blend in a food processor, adding water in small amounts until you have a ricotta-like texture. Add the nutritional yeast slowly to achieve the desired ‘cheesy’ flavour, plus salt and a few drops of the lemon juice to taste. Flavour with the smashed garlic, if desired.
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To blanch the stinging nettles and peas, place each in small separate pans of boiling salty water for 1 minute. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and transfer immediately to bowls of ice-cold water to retain their green colour.
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To make the gnudi, place the blanched peas (keeping a few back for a garnish) and nettles plus the almond ricotta in a food processor. Mix until soft but it holds its form. Shape into quenelles using two small teaspoons, or roll into small balls.
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To make the crema, sauté the sliced fennel in the tablespoon of olive oil. Add a little water or stock (if using) until covered and cook on a very low heat until soft. Once cooked, place in a highspeed blender and slowly add the almond milk until you have created a creamy sauce. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, the lemon zest and most of the remaining juice. A touch of cayenne pepper and ground nutmeg also work well with this dish.
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Prepare the garnish by drizzling the pea shoots, pea blossoms and reserved blanched peas with olive oil and the remaining lemon juice.
MAKE THE CONNECTION
Find out more about Bernadett’s botanical world at www.bornunderthesun.com; @born.under.the.sun 194
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To plate, place a swirl of crema on a shallow plate, then top with the gnudi and the garnish. Keep the ingredients close to each other for a natural yet stylish effect.
Above Use slightly sweet and crunchy edible pea (Pisum sativum) blossoms and delicate shoots and tendrils to garnish your dish for a spring-fresh taste and a wonderfully naturalistic, seasonal finish.
MY BOTANICAL WORLD . . .
love collecting ingredients from the markets and farms around my home in ‘ Isunny Pasadena, California, growing my own or foraging in the nearby countryside or on my travels. Fresh, local, seasonal, organic produce always tastes superior and inspires the most wonderful flavour combinations and natural plating arrangements.
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AUTUMN Autumn is peak harvest time. Gluts of summer fruits or tender vegetables can be turned into chutneys, jams, jellies or pickles. Squashes and gourds ripen and expand to impressive sizes and colours, providing much meaty flesh for soups, stews and bakes. Trees are laden with pome fruits such as apples and pears – perfect for pies, crumbles and puddings – or enhanced with warming spices or the fruits of a forage, such as blackberries, nuts and seeds. Plus hopefully there may still be some sun, so leave space for some optimistic chilled desserts.
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AUTUMN
What to eat now The autumn edit
Apple (Malus pumila) The perfect snack, the ideal ingredient for puddings, and more than 7,500 cultivars to choose from. Goes well with cinnamon, raisins, cheese Blackberry (Rubus) Pick your own, devour some, then turn what’s left of your forage into autumnal pies, jams and crumbles. Goes well with apple, plum, apricot Damson (Prunus domestica subsp. insititia) This lovely, tart, dark-blue-skinned subspecies of plum works best when stewed down for jam or pudding. Goes well with gin, cheese, sage Sweetcorn (Zea mays) There’s almost nothing better than hot, buttered, roasted cobs of maize. It’s also perfect for salsa. Goes well with jalapeño chillies, lime, nutmeg Beetroot (Beta vulgaris cultivars) Choose from deep red, yellow and stripy varieties; perfect for salads, soups and roast vegetable dishes. Goes well with aniseed, chocolate, fennel
Pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima) Pumpkin’s generous orange flesh can be cooked up in numerous ways, as can the nutritious seeds. Goes well with rosemary, cumin, maple syrup Pear (Pyrus genus) Pears impart a sweet yet delicately acidic flavour and granular texture to sweets, savouries and drinks. Goes well with blue cheese, hazelnut, ginger Quince (Cydonia oblonga) The sole member of the Cydonia genus is high in pectin, which makes it ideal for use in jams, jellies and quince ‘cheese’. Goes well with Manchego cheese, vanilla, fennel Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) The jewel-coloured leaf stalks and dark cabbage-like leaves provide a nutritious meal all of their own. Goes well with garlic, coriander, citrus
Sensory notes of autumn Colourful • Aromatic • Comforting • Sweet and sour
Sweet chestnut (Castanea sativa) Cook these lovely shiny nuts first to reduce the high (stomach-irritating) tannic acid content, and to sweeten and warm – ideally over an open fire. Goes well with chocolate, cream, Brussels sprouts
Opposite Five species of gourd (Curcurbita) are grown worldwide, producing numerous cultivars including butternut squash (Curcubita moschata) and pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima), first domesticated for its flesh.
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BOTANICAL RECIPES The autumn edit
MY BOTANICAL WORLD . . .
is one of my favourite ingredients and particularly shines in ‘ Flateennelsummer and autumn when the golden yellow umbels start to set seed. Pick one straight from the plant and savour the fragrant yet spicy taste and aroma – the inspiration for numerous sweet and savoury dishes.
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AUTUMN
Tom Harris,The Marksman Pub and Dining Room, London
Makes 1 cake
Orange, fennel seed and almond cake This wonderfully sticky citrus and nut cake can trace its origins back to the almond and orange groves of Spain and the Middle East. The addition of toasted fennel seeds and Noilly Prat vermouth adds floral yet warming spicy notes, while Seville or blood oranges, or even lemons, can be used into winter for a more tart, marmalade-like flavour.
2 oranges 6 eggs 220g (generous 1 cup) sugar 220g (2 cups) ground almonds 5g (1 tsp) fennel seeds, toasted 50g (¹⁄³ cup) flour 50ml (¼ cup) olive oil 15ml (1 tbsp) Noilly Prat vermouth (Anise liquor) Crème fraîche and a drizzle of honey, to serve
1
Boil the oranges whole in two changes of water until very soft – enough to push a finger through without resistance.You will need to simmer them for 1½–2 hours.
2 3 4
Once cool, purée the oranges in a blender and pass through a sieve to remove any pips.
In a mixer or bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy and tripled in size.
Fold in the ground almonds and flour with the toasted fennel seeds, keeping as much air in the mix as possible. Then fold in the orange paste made in step 2, olive oil and the Noilly Prat.
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Pour into a buttered and lined cake tin and bake at 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for approximately 25 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean.
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Serve warm with a dollop of crème fraîche and a drizzle of honey.
Opposite Blood oranges, a natural mutation of sweet orange Citrus x sinensis, have a dark red flesh made by the antioxidant pigment anthocyanin, and a raspberry-citrus flavour. Try Tarocco, Moro and Sanguinello cultivars.
MAKE THE CONNECTION
Find out more about Tom’s botanical world at www.marksmanpublichouse.com; @marksman_pub
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MY BOTANICAL WORLD . . .
we’re making recipes at the shop it can get quite complicated, with sometimes 50 different ‘ When ingredients for one batch. The batches are always changing, which is how we keep our relationship with the botanicals alive. We actively encourage tapping into your inner artist and making a recipe your own. In early winter, for example, the wild rosehips are ripe for picking. Cacao butter is a great delivery mechanism for their immune-boosting goodness and tastes amazing too.
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BOTANICAL DRINKS & BOWLS
Makes about 600g (2 cups)
Charisse Baker, East London Juice Co., London
Rawow chocolate butter If you love store-bought chocolate spread but aren’t into refined sugar, vegetable oil, milk solids, emulsifiers and ‘flavours’, this is for you. This chocolate nut formula is raw, which makes all the difference. All the natural goodness is kept, and this butter will keep you moving until the very last second. For extra bedroom – or anywhere – energy, add a spoonful of maca root powder (or to taste) along with the other ingredients in step 4. Enjoy it as a spread on your toast, crackers or favourite food base. Melt into a sauce and pour onto ice cream, pudding or a partner. Or add to smoothies, milkshakes or cakes – additions multiply the good times.
70g (4½ tbsp) chopped cacao butter (raw, organic and Fairtrade if possible) 100g (scant ½ cup) virgin coconut oil 250g (2½ cups) dry activated almonds (or nuts of choice) ¼ tsp Himalayan or natural blue salt 140g (¾ cup) coconut sugar 140g (1 cup) cacao powder
Note Activating the nuts ensures maximum nutritional value and digestibility, but if you are making a last-minute batch, you can skip this step and use untreated nuts. In this case, you may not need to add all of the oil mixture, as the nuts will release their own oils.
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Spread the activated almonds (or chosen nuts) evenly in a dehydrator or oven heated to 40°C/104°F until dried to original weight prior to activation phase – in this case 250g. This may take 12 hours to 1 day. The almonds are now ready to use in the following recipe.
Phase 2: Making the butter Melt the butter and coconut oil gently in a double boiler, stirring continuously.
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Blend the nuts together with the salt and three-quarters of the oil mixture. The quantity of ingredients should be adjusted to the size of the blender – the nuts should just cover the blades when placed in the blending jug.
3
Slowly blend until smooth, making sure not to heat above 40°C/104°F as you may lose some benefit of the raw state.
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Blend together all the remaining ingredients until smooth.
Jar it and hide it from your friends at the back of the refrigerator for your own enjoyment for up to 6 weeks.
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Don’t forget to wipe the inside of the jug clean using a slice of soft bread, or just add milk and blend further to create a delicious instant milkshake.
Phase 1: Nut preparation Cover 250g (2½ cups) almonds (or other favourite nut, such as hazelnut or walnut) with filtered water and a large pinch of salt. Soak for 1 hour, then rinse the nuts clean. Repeat, soaking a second time for around 12 hours.
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Opposite Cocoa beans are the fermented, dried seeds of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao), from which nutritious pale yellow cocoa butter can be made. The seeds are found within fruit growing directly on the tree trunks.
MAKE THE CONNECTION
Find out more about Charisse’s botanical world at www.eastlondonjuice.com; @eastlondonjuiceco
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