A Cook's Initiation into the Gorgeous World of Mushrooms by Philippe Emanuelli

CONTENTS ABOUT MUSHROOMS

: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

A COOK’S INITIATION INTO THE GORGEOUS WORLD OF MUSHROOMS

9 LITTLE LEXICON OF BASICS 14

RECIPE INDEX VISUAL INDEX OF MUSHROOMS

RECIPES WILD MUSHROOMS

24 27

67

OUTDOOR SPORES 146 CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS 161

DRIED MUSHROOMS 213 ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD 257

PRESERVES

FEATURING

INDEX BIBLIOGRAPHY

267 275

282 287

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: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

Recipe Index

RECIPE INDEX Wild Mushrooms Fresh Morels

Morels and Lemon Verbena en Papillote Morels with Sweet Wine and White Asparagus Morels Stuffed with Foie Gras Gratin of Morels and Green Asparagus

68 70 70 70

St. George’s Mushrooms

St. George’s Mushrooms with Mayonnaise St. George’s Mushroom Tartare St. George’s Mushrooms Sautéed with Artichokes and Preserved Lemons

74 77 77

Asparagus and Artichokes with Buttered Fairy Ring Mushrooms Veal Chops with Fairy Ring Mushrooms in Cream Banon Cheese with Fairy Ring Mushrooms Sautéed with Walnuts New Potatoes Sautéed with Morels and Fairy Ring Mushrooms

Tomato and Summer Truffle Salad Salad of White Peach, Mozzarella, and Summer Truffle Agarics and Summer Truffle Salad Roasted New Potatoes with Summer Truffles Sardine and Summer Truffle Tart Lasagne of Smoked Butter and Summer Truffles

Chanterelle Mushrooms

Marinated Chanterelles and Apricots with Ham Gnocchi with Chanterelles Duck Confit with Candied Chanterelles Zucchini Blossom–Chanterelle Jam

Caesar’s Mushrooms

Caesar’s Mushroom Salad Caesar’s Mushrooms with Olive Oil, Lemon, and Sage

Parasol Mushrooms

Broiled Parasol Mushrooms Grilled Parasol Mushrooms Pan-Fried Parasol Mushrooms Parasol Mushrooms, Cordon Bleu–Style Parasol Mushroom Fritters

Hedgehog Mushrooms Hedgehog Mushroom Remoulade Pig’s Feet and Hedgehog Bastillas

Porcini Mushrooms Raw Mushroom Salad

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110 110 110 111 111 111 116 116

Russula Mushrooms

Russulas Persillade 120 Boar Stew 120

Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Fairy Ring Mushrooms

Summer Truffles

Porcini and Chestnut Soup Grilled Porcini Marinated with White Grapes Porcini and Chanterelles with Persillade Sautéed Porcini and Apples Porcini Stew with Coffee Fricassee of Porcini with Veal Broth and Bay Leaves Stuffed Porcini Caps Baked Eggs and Spelt

80 82 82 82

86 88 88 88 92 92

95 97 97 97

100 100

102 102 104 104 104

106 106

108

Caramelized Belgian Endive with Black Trumpet Mushrooms 122 Gratin of Onions and Black Trumpet Mushrooms 124 Baked Eggs with Black Trumpets 124

Milky Cap Mushrooms

Grilled Milky Caps with Fresh Chile Grilled Milky Caps with Saffron Grilled Milky Caps with Maroilles Cheese Milky Cap Chutney

Cauliflower Mushrooms

Gratin of Ravioli and Cauliflower Mushrooms Steamed Cauliflower Mushroom and Napa Cabbage

128 130 130 130

132 135

Yellowfoot Chanterelle Mushrooms

Sautéed Scallop Coral with Yellowfoot Chanterelles 136 Yellowfoot Chanterelle Lasagne 138 Pig’s Feet Stuffed with Yellowfoot Chanterelles 138 Yellowfoot Chanterelles with Tripe 143 Yellowfoot Chanterelles with Bottarga 143 Clams with Yellowfoot Chanterelles and Sake 143

Outdoor Spores

Hot Dogs with Summer Truffles 150 Truffle Croque-Monsieur 150 Saint-Félicien and Portobello Mushroom Sandwiches 150 Mushroom Fritters 150

Cultivated Mushrooms Black Truffles

Baked Eggs with Truffles Garlic Confit and Buttered Truffles Sashimi with Lemon and Truffle Macaroni and Truffle Gratin

169 169 169 173

Fennel Confit with Truffle Grilled Leeks with Truffled Vinaigrette Truffled Brie Osso Buco with Truffles

173 176 176 178

White Mushrooms Cremini Mushrooms with Lemon Broiled Herb-Stuffed Cremini “Grand-Mère” Sauce Baked Eggs and Mushrooms

181 183 183 183

186 188 190 190 190

195 196 196 196

Bluefoot Mushrooms Bluefoot Mushrooms with Garlic and Parsley Bluefoot Mushrooms with Snails

200 200

Horse Mushrooms Horse Mushroooms with Garlic and Tarragon Horse Mushroom Crisps

205 205

Black Poplar Mushrooms Black Poplar Mushrooms with Clementines Persillade of Black Poplar Mushrooms and Monkfish with Miso

206 206

Enoki Mushrooms Enokis in Oyster Sauce Enoki Tempura

210 210

Dried Mushrooms Mushroom Risotto

232

Porcini Ice Cream

232

Dried Fairy Ring Mushrooms Razor Clams and Fairy Rings Marinière

236

Fairy Ring and Black Olive Pissaladière

236

White Beans and Fairy Rings

239

Veal Cheeks with Morels

240

Saint-Marcellin Cheeses with Morels

240

Dried Shiitake Mushrooms Shiitake Choucroute

244

Squid Stuffed with Dried Shiitakes

244

Dried Wood Ear Mushrooms

Shiitake Mushrooms Roasted Shiitakes with Crisp-Skinned Duck Breast Shiitakes with Plums Stuffed and Glazed Shiitakes Sushi Balls

232

Crème Brûlée with Porcini and Foie Gras

Dried Morel Mushrooms

Oyster Mushrooms Oyster Mushrooms with Seaweed Butter Oyster Mushrooms with Scallop Kebabs Oyster Mushrooms Sautéed with Sea Lettuce Sautéed Squid and Oyster Mushrooms with Black Pepper Steamed Oysters with Shimeji Mushrooms

Veal Shanks with Porcini and Beaujolais (and Vice Versa)

218

Dried Porcini Mushrooms Open-Face Goat Cheese, Porcini, and Shrimp Sandwiches 225 Porcini-Stuffed Cabbage Rolls 227 Pig’s Ear and Porcini Salad 227 Foie Gras–Stuffed Quail with Porcini Sauce 227 Porcini Ravioli with Porcini Butter 230 Gratin of Belgian Endive and Porcini 230 Porcini Béchamel 230

Wood Ear Mushrooms with Pineapple in Syrup 246 Elderberry Wine and Wood Ear Mushroom Soup 246

Dried Agaric, Enoki, Shaggy Mane, Reishi, Royal Sun, Black Trumpet, and Chanterelle Mushrooms Pork Roast with Agaric Mushrooms

248

Enoki Confit with Mirin

250

Shaggy Manes with Enokis

250

Shaggy Manes with Saffron and Pine Nuts

250

Mushroom Tea

250

Black Trumpet Mushrooms with Olives and Smoked Paprika

252

Twice-Baked Potatoes and Chanterelles

252

Roast Chicken with Royal Sun Mushrooms

252

Recipes based on Products Derived from Mushrooms Glazed Pork Belly with Truffled Honey

263

Artichokes Camus with Truffle Tapenade

263

Pasta Shells with Truffled Cheese

263

Mushroom Powders 265 Preserves Shiitakes in Vinegar

269

Grilled White Mushrooms in Oil

269

Field Agaric Pickles

269

Black Poplar Mushrooms in White Wine

269

Candied Chanterelles

269

Parasol Mushrooms in Oil

269

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ST. GEORGE’S MUSHROOMS

Wild Mushrooms

: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

A COOK’S INITIATION INTO THE GORGEOUS WORLD OF MUSHROOMS

You’ll start seeing these mushrooms in many regions around April 23—the feast of St. George.

They are highly perishable and so don’t travel far from where they’re foraged, and very rare in the United States. Look for them at farmers’ markets and greengrocers through the middle of May, and if the season isn’t too dry, you might be graced with a brief comeback in June. In spite of their scarcity, the price is pretty reasonable and the quality is uniformly good. They’re easy to clean, with firm dense flesh, a mildly bitter flavor, and a fragrance that brings to mind freshly ground flour. choose: St. George’s mushrooms should be firm and tightly formed, creamy or very light beige in color, parasite-free (check for bugs at the point where you trim the stem). They should have a clean, pleasant smell. clean: Sort through them to pick out any bits of grass (they grow in grassy fields and clearings). Trim a bit off the stem and give them a light brushing, if need be. Discard any stems that are housing bugs. cook: When they’re really fresh, they’re delicious raw. After a day or so, they’ll begin to oxidize and the color will darken, so it’s better to cook them at that point (sauté quickly in olive oil or clarified butter).

ST. GEORGE’S MUSHROOMS WITH MAYONNAISE serves 4 / 5 minutes prep time 10.5 oz St. George’s mushrooms ½ cup lemony mayonnaise Fleur de sel (or other good sea salt) 1 lemon 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Sort through the mushrooms and brush off any that aren’t perfectly clean. Arrange each mushroom, ­cap-side down, on a little dollop of mayonnaise (just a suggestion; feel free to improvise other presentations). Sprinkle with salt and serve with lemon wedges.

Another idea is to make a lemon-salt by mixing the fleur de sel with some finely grated lemon zest (from an organic or unsprayed lemon). Sprinkle that on the mushrooms along with the Parmesan.

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Wild Mushrooms

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ST. GEORGE’S MUSHROOM TARTARE serves 4 / 10 minutes prep time

: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

A COOK’S INITIATION INTO THE GORGEOUS WORLD OF MUSHROOMS

10.5 oz St. George’s mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons chopped pitted black olives 2 minced shallots 4 tablespoons chopped, drained capers 12 chopped cornichons 1 bunch chives, snipped 4 egg yolks 1 or 2 sprigs basil Parmesan cheese shavings (optional)

Make this dish like you were making a steak tartare: Coarsely chop the cleaned mushrooms and mix them with the olive oil, olives, shallots, capers, cornichons, and half the chives.

Arrange on four plates with an egg yolk on each one. Top with the rest of the chives, the basil, and, if you like, the Parmesan shavings before serving.

ST. GEORGE’S MUSHROOMS SAUTÉED WITH ARTICHOKES AND PRESERVED LEMONS serves 4 / 15 minutes prep time / 15 minutes cooking time 1 pint cherry tomatoes 8 baby artichokes, stems trimmed, leaf tips cut off 2 preserved lemons, quartered ¼ cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 14 oz St. George’s mushrooms

Preheat the broiler. Prick each tomato with a skewer and arrange them on a baking sheet, along with the artichokes and preserved lemons. Drizzle everything with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil just until the tomatoes burst and the artichokes are tender.

Meanwhile, clean the mushrooms, trim the stems, and sauté them quickly over medium-high heat with the rest of the olive oil.

Combine and serve hot.

Pages 78–79: St. George’s Mushrooms Sautéed with Artichokes and Preserved Lemons (both photos of same dish)

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Wild Mushrooms

: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

A COOK’S INITIATION INTO THE GORGEOUS WORLD OF MUSHROOMS

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FAIRY RING MUSHROOMS

Wild Mushrooms

: D D TE E N H IZ IO IG R T R HO BU PY T I O U TR C T A IS O D N R FO

A COOK’S INITIATION INTO THE GORGEOUS WORLD OF MUSHROOMS

Fairy rings are, in my opinion, the most delicious of the springtime mushrooms, arriving usually in April, right after morel season; they make sporadic appearances in the fall as well. The mushrooms grow in tight little groups in grassy fields, sometimes growing in a circular pattern (known also as fairy rings or pixie rings). They are easy to cook, and they make perfect partners for other springtime fare: asparagus, green garlic, spring onions, salad greens, mild fish, spring veal, and more. choose: Fairy ring mushrooms should be dry and an even, delicate beige. Watch out, because some vendors will spray the mushrooms with water in order to pump up their weight (they’re quite light to begin with), which also changes their color to a dark brown. Don’t get duped. clean: The small size and somewhat floppy and sometimes ridged stem makes cleaning fairy rings frustrating. The best thing to do is simply sort through them, picking out the bits of grass and twigs leftover from foraging, and then to snip the stems of the biggest ones with some ­scissors. Plan on a handful per person. cook: Fairy rings love butter, goose fat, cream, and gentle cooking methods. When you first start cooking them, add a bit of broth, meat drippings, or wine to the pan. Their delicate and distinct fragrance of bitter almonds and hazelnuts infuses into whatever liquid you cook the mushrooms with, making fairy rings perfect for sauces, soups, or confits. The flavor is even stronger in the dried version (see Dried Fairy Ring Mushrooms, page 236).

ASPARAGUS AND ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTERED FAIRY RING MUSHROOMS serves 4 / 15 minutes prep time / 10 minutes cooking time 8 gorgeous fat asparagus spears 2 artichokes 1 lemon, cut into thick slices 4 eggs 14 oz fairy ring mushrooms 2 tablespoons butter

Cook the asparagus for 4 to 6 minutes in boiling salted water until crisp-tender and then refresh them in very cold water; drain. Pare the artichokes until you just have the meaty bottoms, and then steam them on some lemon slices until tender, about 15 minutes. Cut the artichoke bottoms into slices.

Boil the eggs for 5 minutes. Refresh in cold water; peel and halve them. Gently sauté the fairy ring mushrooms in the butter over low heat. Arrange everything together on plates to serve.

This recipe works beautifully with spaghetti squash, which is in season at the same time. Substitute the asparagus and artichokes with the squash. Boil or steam it about 20 minutes. Scrape out the interior with a fork and toss with a bit of butter.

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