The Diamonds of Dalt Vila

Introducing Ibiza Old Town

Ibiza is known globally for its hedonistic nightclubs, the summer parties that stir all the senses and the world-class DJs that descend on the island every season. There is no place quite like it on earth. It is a clubbers paradise, with every night guaranteed to be an adventure you write down in your personal memoirs. There is no place on earth where going out is such an adventure like it is on Ibiza. However, if you take a look beyond the dance floors and disco lights, you’ll find what gives Ibiza its true charm and character: the relaxed beach bars where you can spend hours lying in a hammock sipping Sangria while watching the pretty beach boys and girls coming and going. Or the laid back bohemian vegan and organic restaurants that inspire places all around the world with their healthy and super-stylish concepts. Or the charming Spanish Tapas bars where the locals sit to meet and eat, drink, and simply enjoy life. There are fantastic restaurants on every corner of the island, but what visitors and even locals tend to neglect - is Ibiza’s Old Town. The difficult parking situation that most historical cities face doesn’t help, especially in high season when all the cruise ship passengers are shoving their way through the tiny cobbled streets, fighting for the best tables. However, visiting Dalt Vila - the ancient “Upper town” - is an absolute must when you visit Ibiza. Let travel writer Judith Heede tell you why...

“My adventure started quite harmlessly in the famous Croissant Show. The French bakery does what it says on the tin – it’s breakfast with a bit of a ‘show’. Andres, the owner with his Dali-esque moustache, seems to know everybody who passes by on this sunny April afternoon. It’s not crowded yet at this time of the year and most of the guests sitting at the little bistro tables outside are locals. Here it seems like there is no hardand-fast rule what constitutes breakfast time, and while I am enjoying my café con leche the tables around me are filled with deliciously looking butter croissants and pain au chocolats. But it’s not only the proper French food that impresses me, it is the unique view of the Portal de Ses Taules. The dramatic main entrance to the old castle is up a slope, crossing a drawbridge through the arch, flanked by mighty statues in Roman stone. I have climbed my way up to the ancient castle before, but the panoramic views from this UNESCO World Heritage site are so magnificent that I decide to leave the bistro to explore the area behind these old walls once again. The colourful gift shops and art galleries on the walk up to the cathedral are treasure troves of unusual and unique works by talented local crafts people. Many residents live in these tiny houses, and the balconies are filled with geraniums and colourfully draped clothes lines. But since my mission is to eat and drink my way through town today, I can’t stop to shop and am heading straight to the next spot right at the top of the stairs: S’Escalinata. Mellow Reggae beats are coming out of the opened wooden doors. The message written on them with big white letters matches the music: ‘Don’t worry be happy’, or ‘Eat, Drink & Love’. Sounds inviting, and there is one seat free on the terrace at the top of the wide steps. People sit on neon pink or green sandbag cushions and colourful canvas benches enjoying a stunning view over the city.

The pretty young waitress can’t speak English, but the jugs of Sangria she carries from the kitchen, speak for themselves. Very tempting, but I have a long night ahead of me, and opt for a green detox smoothie and home made guacamole. As the sun goes down, it quickly becomes cold and windy, so I leave this green Hipster home behind me to slowly make my way back down. Plaza del Sol is just around the corner and all set for summer: colourful filled fruit baskets are lined up to the entrance and the potted yukka palms give the “Plaza” a Mexican touch. The smell of the lemons and oranges and the promising handprinted Cocktail and Tapas signs make me want to sit down in the cosy corner with the handmade quirky furniture. But I want something less hippiesc now so I just make a note to myself about this little gem, enthroned here on the hills of Dalt Vila overlooking the entire port and city.

I am heading towards La Oliva for the second round of tapas before meeting a friend for dinner. Usually, a plan like that ends with me not remembering much the next day. But I am a writer, that’s what I get paid for. Not that it would need that much work experience in that field, but I have learned that a solid foundation can work miracles when things are getting serious. La Oliva is considered a classic on the island, and although its been here for almost 30 years,I’ve never managed to visit. But now I understand why locals and tourists keep coming back to this Mediterranean food temple: this is one of the most romantic setups I have ever seen. Situated in the main square, surrounded by the legendary walls of Dalt Vila, guests sit on white chairs at simple but nicely decorated tables right on the pavement terrace. Red roses grow all over the old bright white building with its pink arched doors and windows. While I’m enjoying a glass of white wine and a bowl of light zucchini noodles with Parmesan cheese and roasted almonds, Razvan tells me he’s been a waiter here here for five seasons; the spaghetti Lobster flambéed in whiskey definitely sounds like a winner, but I need to keep my appetite high and the expenses low, so I stick to the starter while listening to Razvan’s story. He moved here from Romania after university to meet people and gain some experience, but like so many others, the island became his summer home. “Now, it is still an easy job” he says but when the season is in full swing from May onwards he wouldn’t have time to sit with me at the table and talk. I know how busy the streets become later in the year, and I have no doubt that the tips he’ll make then will be higher than his hourly rate. He worked his first season in one of the big beach clubs, but prefers the quieter atmosphere here, where the clients are older and also more generous, especially the Americans. Being half American I feel obliged now, and leave him a good tip on my way out.