CREATE YOUR STORY HOLIDAY GIFTS
FASHION
FROM THE RUNWAYS SPECIAL SECTION
BRIDAL
ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS FALL/WINTER 2016/2017
®ROBERTOCOIN
POIS MOI COLLECTION
Events PAGE 4
Welcome O
ne of the many things I enjoy about the jewelry business is all the stories that go with it. There are so many. There are the stories of the jewelry itself: tales of inspiration, world travel and exploration, of rare gemstones and the designers who create one-of-a-kind pieces around them. And then there are stories that revolve around the giving of jewelry. These are often my favorites. People buy jewelry for all sorts of reasons. Often as a gift, sometimes as a self-purchase, but usually in celebration of something. It can be as simple as a promotion at work, or as exciting as a marriage proposal. A celebration of accomplishment or of love. No matter the occasion, the giving and receiving is just another chapter in the story.
We are in a wonderful business, and we’re always reminded of that during the holiday season. ”
Our Customers PAGE 40
What makes fine jewelry so special is how it becomes a conveyor of feelings and emotions and, later, a keeper of memories. What bride can look at her ring and not remember the details of the proposal? And what son can wear his father’s timepiece without feeling closer to him? We are in a wonderful business, and we’re always reminded of that during the holiday season. I hope we can help you tell a story of your own this year. And in our own little way, become a part of your story. Happy holidays! I hope to see you soon.
Michelle Holdgrafer, Store Director
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CONTENTS
Fall/Winter 2016/17
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P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER
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MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA
DESIGNER
1 Welcome Letter JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
4 Events 8 Giving Tulsa H.O.P.E. 10 Our Team
PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE
12 Marco Bicego: The Art of Authenticity
Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
14 From the Runways
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18 Create Your Story: Holiday Gifts
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events
Clockwise from left: Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels was proud to sponsor White Party No. 9, benefiting Family & Children’s Services of Tulsa. This year’s event, which took place May 6 on the rooftop of The Vault in Tulsa’s unique Art Deco District, raised $150,000 for the organization. Sponsors and guests donned all-white attire to dine and dance the night away while sampling craft cocktails specially made by Tulsa’s premier mixologists. Bottom right: We were excited to once again welcome our friend, renowned jewelry designer Penny Preville, to Tulsa in May. Preville shared her newest collections and the inspiration behind them with our customers. Bottom left: Sales associate Erin Burgess and store director Michelle Holdgrafer represented Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels at the Oklahoma Bride Show in June.
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your access to the world’s best brands The Woodlans, TX
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S i n c e 18 9 3 .
Giving Tulsa H.O.P.E. B
BY KATE LIEBERS
“The stigma associated with getting tested prevails to this day,” Williams says. “Knowing your health status is so important to living a long, healthy life. If everyone got tested, more people would get the needed medication, live longer and stop the spread of these infections.” Bruce G. Weber has been a proud partner of H.O.P.E. since 2013, and has participated in the DIVAS 4 H.O.P.E. annual fundraiser every year. For more information about other events or general information about H.O.P.E., visit hopetesting.org.
efore there was H.O.P.E., people in the Tulsa area did not have such low-cost access to life-changing information about their sexual health. H.O.P.E., Health Outreach Prevention Education, is dedicated to improving the health of the community while giving people peace of mind. Established in 1998, H.O.P.E. is the first provider of free and low-cost HIV, HCV and STD services to Tulsa. Last year, the organization assisted more than 9,000 individuals in Tulsa and the surrounding counties. “The most important thing to remember is that testing takes only 15 to 20 minutes, with results given at the end of the testing session,” says Kathy Williams, executive director of H.O.P.E. “These tests are a lifesaving measure that anyone can take advantage of.” Low-cost testing for HIV, HCV, syphilis, chlamydia and gonorrhea is available at the clinic, located at 3540 E. 31st Street, #3 in Tulsa. Free HIV and STD testing is available at certain Green County outreach sites that partner with H.O.P.E. In addition to the tests, H.O.P.E. offers education and prevention information, counseling and harm-reduction supplies. For those who test positive, H.O.P.E. helps link those people to medical care and social services at the clinic or one of the many targeted outreach sites. For all the progress that H.O.P.E. has made in raising awareness, there are still hundreds of thousands of people who are unaware of their infections, according to the Oklahoma State Department of Health.
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®ROBERTOCOIN
NEW BAROCCO & CENTO COLLECTIONS
Our TEAM Betty Batey: The “Y” necklaces and lariats. Not only is it my favorite trend right now, but it is so apropos for Oklahoma! Our customers are loving it.
We caught up with the sales associates at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels to inquire about their favorite trends, the state of the jewelry industry and what makes our store so special.
Mary Morrell: I love that yellow gold has trended back! Is there a particular piece you’ve sold or a client you’ve helped that stands out during your time with Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels? Lynn Redwine: My favorite sales were engagement rings to my sons Blake and Rob!
Your clients come in to find jewelry for an occasion, be it an engagement, an anniversary, a self-reward, etc. What’s the occasion you like to help someone with most?
Betty Batey: I always go back to the very first diamond ring I sold. The couple was celebrating their 40th anniversary and he selected a threecarat diamond for her to replace the less than one-carat diamond she had started out with. They shared a wonderful life story with me and I could tell they were still madly in love with one another. We just really bonded and that experience turned into a lasting relationship that has flourished over the years. They still stop by just to say hello to me when they’re in town.
Michelle Holdgrafer: I really enjoy helping friends and people that I know personally for special occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries. When I get to know the client and what he or she likes, it is fun to come up with something new that fits their style and will surprise them. Byron Gaines: Anniversaries. It is great to visit with couples to whom you sold wedding rings years earlier.
Mary Morrell: I have had the pleasure of helping three generations of one wonderful family.
Donna Grant: Self-rewards are fun for me because there is not the pressure of trying to read what the gift recipient is going to like! But engagements are a very close second. Perhaps because I have sons, I love educating young guys and helping them feel confident that they have chosen the perfect ring.
How do you keep current on the jewelry and watch industries: the trends, the technology, etc.? Erin Burgess: I routinely check several blogs to stay current. I enjoy reading JCK online (Jewelers Circular Keystone) and Hodinkee, which is all about watches. We also frequently receive emails with updates from our different designer brands.
Brandon Lunsford: Engagement clients are the best. When the connection is made with the client that moves you into more of a friend and advisor role, you begin to see the nerves and stress wane. He begins to enjoy the process, thinking of her and her reaction to what is about to take place, rather than getting it right. That is when I feel I have done my due diligence to him.
Brandon Lunsford: I subscribe to industry blogs and reports such as Gemological Institute of America, JCK, Jewelers of America and Hodinkee. I also follow our designers on Facebook as well as blog sites such as IW Watch, Haute Timepieces, and Robb Report.
Betty Batey: An anniversary. Whether it is one year or 50, it’s such a special, personal time for them and they want the gift to be perfect. They always have the most interesting and inspirational stories about why they want a certain piece of jewelry and what it should represent.
Lynn Redwine: I pay attention to what people are wearing—especially when I travel. Mary Morrell: We receive lots of industry magazines that I read. Our designers offer online training and keep us well-informed on trends. I also read industry websites.
What’s your favorite trend in jewelry this year?
Byron Gaines: I read industry-related periodicals and I’ve been active with Gemological Institute of America and the American Gem Society for decades.
Lynn Redwine: I love the stacking and layering trends! Love Emily Armenta’s look! Donna Grant: “Y” necklaces are going to be big! But my favorite trend is mismatched engagement and wedding bands. Gals are just stacking different styles and colors of rings together and I think it is a very cool and personal look.
What do you think differentiates Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels from other jewelry stores? Donna Grant: We cater to what the customer wants—not what we have to sell. If we don’t have it…we’ll make it!
Michelle Holdgrafer: This year I have seen a lot of collars/choker-style necklaces. Many designers are making adjustable necklaces so they can be worn to fit any size neck.
Erin Burgess: At Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels we really take the time to get to know our customers and go above and beyond to help find them the perfect piece. If for some reason we do not have the item that they are looking for in our store, we reach out to our “sister” stores
Brandon Lunsford: I am seeing more and more customers coming in inquiring about custom pieces.
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From left: Lynn Redwine, Mary Morrell, Erin Burgess, Brandon Lunsford, store director Michelle Holdgrafer, Byron Gaines, Betty Batey and Donna Grant.
Byron Gaines: “I can’t afford to shop at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels!” But when they do come into the store, most are pleasantly surprised with the prices and selection of items in their price range.
to help make sure they get exactly what they came in for. Michelle Holdgrafer: For one, I feel we offer the prettiest jewelry out there, from fun bold fashion to timeless and traditional designs that stand the test of time. Also, we do our best to give our customers a great experience, meeting their needs and getting to know them personally. Your jeweler should be your advisor and care about you as a friend too.
Have your tastes in jewelry changed since you’ve worked at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels and learned more about the different collections?
What’s the reaction of friends or family when they discover you work for such a prestigious jewelry store?
Michelle Holdgrafer: Yes, what I once thought was big is not big anymore. It’s funny how things shrink as you get older. I do like bigger and bolder more than I used to and I am not afraid to wear it.
Michelle Holdgrafer: “Wow, do you take home a pay check?” or “That would be a dangerous place for me to work.”
What changes have you seen in the jewelry business since you started your career?
Betty Batey: “I love that store!” “Do you get a discount!” “How many Rolex watches have you sold?”
Michelle Holdgrafer: What is old is new again. Since I have been in this business for 23 years, I have seen a lot of change. I have seen trends come back from earlier years, only recreated to some degree. I have also seen yellow gold go to white gold as a trend for several years. Now yellow, white, rose gold and other mixed metals are worn. At this point anything goes!
Brandon Lunsford: Honestly, it is the allure of the unobtainable for them, and then we talk and they quickly realize they too can acquire quality pieces at an affordable price here.
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designers
The Art of
MARCO BICEGO’s unique
A UTHENTICITY “T approach to jewelry, food and life. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
he Marco Bicego woman has a tremendous sense of personal style. She is not afraid to experiment with jewelry in unconventional ways,” explains Bicego. After many years working with his father, a successful Vicenza jewelry maker who specialized in gold chains, Marco Bicego launched his own collection of handcrafted fine jewelry in 2000. Famous for its multi-colored gemstones in exclusive faceted cuts, its hand-twisted coils and hand-engraved gold, his collections (crafted in Italy) are inspired by the nature and the architecture of his extensive travels around the world (Africa, Cairo, Jaipur, Murano and other fascinating locales). Here, we speak with this passionate designer about his craft, and his life.
hundreds of fine lines into our pieces. Our jewelry is still hand-crafted, now by second-generation goldsmiths, giving each piece a unique, imperfect quality.
What’s still on your bucket list? There is so much of the world that I still hope to see. I think it is fair to say that my collections are a beautiful way to catalogue my travels, from my Masai collection to my Jaipur collection, which was inspired by the “pink city” in India, where stone-cutting has been perfected over the ages. I want to continue traveling, transforming those inspirations into timeless pieces.
What would you be doing if not jewelry? Without a doubt, cooking. Growing up in Italy, my mother was always cooking and I would help her in the kitchen. We always used fresh ingredients sourced locally. As I would help her, I’d begin interpreting her recipes as my own. I love cooking for family and friends and now have a nostalgic list of recipes to pass down to my children.
You’ve traveled extensively: what’s your favorite place in the world to visit?
Describe your favorite meal? My favorite meals would absolutely be with my family and friends, whatever we eat and wherever we come together. They are my greatest supporters and are incredibly important to me. I love cooking with mushrooms, which I hunt for during truffle season, so I love making Fettuccine ai Porcini—it’s both simple and delicious!
It’s hard to choose. Most recently, my travels to East Africa inspired my Masai collection. The Masai people wear incredibly detailed ornaments that organically hug the body’s natural shape. My Masai collection follows this same accentuation, with each piece delicately hand-coiled with yellow and white gold, accented by stations of diamonds.
Who do you most admire and why? What’s your favorite place in the world to live?
I’d have to say my father, Giuseppe Bicego. The gold chain business he founded in Vicenza evolved into a very successful company. Without his expertise, encouragement and guidance in my formative years, my art would never be where it is today. For that, I am forever grateful.
It would have to be Italy, of course! My heritage is the foundation of my work and has formed my identity. You can see the skills of old-world Italian craftsmanship through our use of the bulino technique to etch
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from the
RUNWAYS TO TULSA
asymmetrical STYLE 1
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SUTRA JEWELS flower ring $14,750 YOSSI HARARI Bamboo necklace $6,645 MARCO BICEGO Masai bracelet $10,240 NIKOS KOULIS Spectrum bracelet $9,149
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE
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NIKOS KOULIS Spectrum earrings $1,435 ROBERTO COIN Carnaby Street pendant $2,500 STEPHEN WEBSTER Love Me, Love Me Not ring $4,500 CHARLES KRYPELL Pastel earrings $10,600
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE
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Introducing The Artisan Handcrafted Modern Chain Collection
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I’ve spent 30 years building a business that I hope will last long after I’m gone. But there are no guarantees. When it comes to leaving something to our kids—and their kids—jewelry seems like a natural gift. After all, diamonds are millions of years old. They should outlast me, and then some.
”
“As a legacy, jewelry is
my favorites
“When I sold my company, I bought myself a gift—a Rolex. I love the masculine look and functionality, but it’s not really about telling time. It’s a reminder of a life spent building something that I’m very proud of. It will HIÁRMXIP] KS XS Q] WSR WSQIHE] ¶
“My wife spent months choosing the perfect dress for our daughter’s wedding. The morning of the ceremony, when we had a moment to ourselves, I surprised her with these earrings to go with it. They sparkled almost as much as her eyes. She looked stunning.”
“For my wife’s 50th birthday I found this emerald and diamond ring. I knew instantly it was the perfect gift to mark the occasion. Emerald is not only her birthstone, but it matches her beautiful green eyes. To me, it’s an heirloom.”
pretty hard to beat.” 19
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RAHAMI RAH RAHAMINOV AMINOV AMI NOV dia d diamond iamon mon ond d thre tthree-stone hree-s e tonne ring e-s ring $2 $205, $205,545 05,545 545 FOREVERMARK diamond stud earrings $46,390 Graduated diamond necklace $132,400 DENISE ROBERGE pearl necklace $27,850 ELIZABETH LOCKE channeled bangle bracelet $8,975 ELIZABETH LOCKE diamond bangle $8,250 ELIZABTEH LOCKE pearl earrings $6,875 CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS diamond ring $119,185 DAVID YURMAN horse pinky ring $550 ASSEAL pearl diamond ring $19,140 ROLEX Datejust watch $38,100 ROLEX Cellini Date watch $17,800 ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Day-Date watch $37,550
A DIAMOND AS RARE AS YOU
“
Jewelry is both an outward expression of my love of art and a reminder of the best times in my life with the people I cherish. I love finding something for myself that’s unique and that speaks to me, but the pieces that mean the most are those I received as gifts.
”
“It’s art that also tells
my favorites “I’m a big fan of jewelry designer Stephen Webster, so when a new dress I found called for something feathery, I knew right where to go. I love how this necklace feels so soft, even though it’s made of metal and gemstones, and the way it lays. And it goes perfectly with my new dress!”
“The only watch I wear is a Rolex my husband gave me for our anniversary. It’s a very classic look, but the meteorite dial is unique and modern. My husband was drawn to the dial because we love star gazing on a clear night. And to think part of this watch was once hurtling through space is pretty neat.”
“My husband said when he saw this ring by Roberto Coin, he couldn’t help but buy it for me. Maybe it’s the fact that Roberto is Italian, and so am I. I love the proportion and asymmetrical design and I wear it every chance I get. I always get compliments on it.”
the story of my life.” 23
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ROBERTO COIN Princess bangle $5,900 ROBERTO COIN mother of pearl and diamond ring $3,500 DAVID YURMAN lapis lazuli Belmont necklace $5,700 BAUME & MERCIER ladies Promesse watch $6,950 DAVID YURMAN diamond Wheaton ring $2,750 PENNY PREVILLE diamond bangle with marquise $6,300 ARMENTA Scroll huggie bracelet $2,745 PENNY PREVILLE diamond bangle $7,570 ARMENTA diamond open circle link bracelet $3,290 ARMENTA diamond and white sapphire earrings $3,980 ROLEX Datejust watch $17,250 MARCO BICEGO Marrakech band $2,280
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This is the box THAT, FOR OVER SIXTY YEARS, HAS REPRESENTED THE FINEST JEWELRY AND TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD AND THE VERY BEST VALUES AVAILABLE.
SO WHEN THE OCCASION IS IMPORTANT
AND THE GIFT HAS TO BE PERFECT, THIS IS THE BOX
to look for.
1700 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114 | brucegweber.com
“
The first real jewelry I ever bought for someone was my wife’s engagement ring. I loved the process— learning about diamonds and finding the perfect setting to suit her lifestyle and personality. And her reaction was, well... exactly what I was hoping for.
”
“The ring was beautiful.
my favorites “Finding my wife’s engagement VMRK [EW FSXL RIVZI [VEGOMRK ERH I\GMXMRK 8LIVI [EW [E] QSVI XS ORS[ XLER - VIEPM^IH FYX - PIEVRIH a lot. In the end I chose a pretty GPEWWMG WX]PI ERH - QYWX LEZI HSRI okay. She loves the ring to this day.”
“Getting through dentistry school wasn’t easy and my wife was always there to keep me motivated. When - ÁRMWLIH WLI KEZI QI XLMW 6SPI\ [EXGL [LMGL - VIEPP] PSZI %W GSSP EW MX MW XS PSSO EX XLI FIWX TEVX MW XLEX it came from her.”
“There are a handful of days I GSRWMHIV XLI FIWX SRIW SJ Q] PMJI ERH XLI HE] SYV HEYKLXIV [EW FSVR MW HIÁRMXIP] SRI SJ XLIQ - KEZI Q] wife a sapphire and diamond ring when we came home with our new FEF] -X LETTIRW XS FI FSXL SJ XLIMV FMVXLWXSRIW -¸Q WYVI MX [MPP KS XS our daughter one day.”
But her reaction? Even better.” 27
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MARCO BICEGO 18K yellow gold Cairo bracelet $4,540 MARCO BICEGO Lapis Jaipur Resort necklace $2,570 ROBERTO COIN Flower Princess pendant $950 DAVID YURMAN Maritime belt $450 TUDOR Black Bay watch $3,100 ROLEX Yacht-Master watch $11,550 BAUME & MERCIER Clifton watch $6,450 PENNY PREVILLE diamond bangle $6,185 PENNY PREVILLE diamond necklace $4,995 PENNY PREVILLE diamond earrings $2,700 Aquamarine and sapphire diamond halo ring $6,900 FOREVERMARK diamond ring $6,200
choose your color d lce collection The colored stone jewelry collection, exclusively at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels
1700 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114 | brucegweber.com
“
Most of the good jewelry I own has come from my parents. I like to buy some fashion jewelry for myself, but the pieces I’ll keep forever are gifts from them. I can’t wait to build on my collection.
”
“When I wear my jewelry, I’m
my favorites
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“A David Yurman bracelet was Q] ÁVWX ·VIEP NI[IPV]¸ TYVGLEWI JSV Q]WIPJ 1] QSQ LEW [SVR LMW NI[IPV] JSV EW PSRK EW - GER VIQIQFIV ERH -¸ZI EP[E]W [ERXIH E TMIGI SJ Q] S[R -X [EW XLI TIVJIGX VI[EVH [LIR - PERHIH Q] ÁVWX NSF SYX SJ GSPPIKI ¶
reminded of the people in my life.” µ-¸ZI PSZIH FYXXIVÂMIW WMRGI - [EW E GLMPH ERH [SYPH GEXGL XLIQ [MXL Q] KVERHJEXLIV ,I TEWWIH E[E] E JI[ QSRXLW FIJSVI - KVEHYEXIH JVSQ GSPPIKI WS Q] TEVIRXW KEZI QI XLIWI IEVVMRKW EW E VIQMRHIV SJ LMQ ERH LS[ TVSYH LI [EW SJ QI ¶
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1. M MIK MIKIMOTO IKIMO IMO MOTO TO pearl p a studs $420 pe 2 MIK 2. M IMOTO IMO TO O Ako k MIKIMOTO Akoya pearl necklace $1,300 3 R ERT RTO O COIN COIN Tiny Treasures pendants, 3.. ROB ROBERTO ssta ta tarti rting ng att $580 $58 $ 80 starting 4. DAV A ID YUR YU MA Châtelaine amethyst ring $650 DAVID YURMAN 5 DAV 5. DAVID ID YUR Y M MA YURMAN pearl and diamond cuff $895 6. DAVID YURMAN Hampton blue topaz and diamond Châtelaine pendant $1,000
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Why buy her diamond stud earrings at instead of a mall store? ... because they’re the
most beautiful diamond studs you can give for the money!
DIAMOND STUD EARRINGS STARTING AT $475.
Unlike most jewelry stores, Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels does not buy pre-set diamond earrings, made by an overseas manufacturer. We buy loose diamonds directly from one of the world’s largest diamond cutters and mount them in our exclusive Nuvola setting. The diamonds for each pair of earrings are precisely matched for size and quality. They are set in-house into our own Nuvola mounting that was designed for not only durability, but to position the diamond closer to the ear. That means the diamond faces forward instead of down, making them appear brighter and with more sparkle. Plus, you can always trade your Nuvola diamond stud earrings in toward a larger pair, so they can grow with your love.
1700 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114 |brucegweber.com
timepieces
WATCH OUT! Why buying and servicing your timepieces with an authorized dealer is more important than ever. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
I
t’s not hard to avoid obvious knockoffs when it comes to luxury watches. Just be careful you’re not ambushed by a Frankenstein. “Frankenstein” is a new watch industry term rapidly spreading among consumers, who are right to be leery. The term refers to watches that have been spliced together from some parts that are genuine and some that are counterfeit. Typically made in Asia, they can easily fool the eye—especially of a buyer blinded by the prospect of getting a great deal. The emergence of Frankenstein watches underscores the importance of buying a fine timepiece from an authorized dealer. “Buying a watch online is like gambling,” says Michael Pollak of Hyde Park Jewelers. “Sometimes you win, but mostly you lose.” And when you lose, you lose big, because these fakes often mimic very expensive models. A consumer spotted an $80,000 Audemars Piguet timepiece priced at a mere $40,000, Pollak recalls. But when the buyer sent it to the manufacturer for servicing, it never came back. In its place was a letter explaining that the watch was not genuine and had been confiscated for infringing on the brand’s trademark. The buyer has no recourse, and even a seller with 100% positive feedback could claim he didn’t know the watch was a Frankenstein. For Pollak, this all comes down to the perennial problem of not knowing a watch’s provenance when buying from an unauthorized dealer. The same thing applies for watches that are stolen. The seller may not even know it, he explains, but once again, as soon as the watch is taken in for servicing, a company such as Rolex will immediately check the serial number against a database of stolen watches. If it comes up as stolen, you’ll never see it again. “According to Rolex, the watch either
belongs to the previous owner, an authorized dealer or the insurance company,” says Pollak. Either way, “It does not belong to you.” Authorized retailers provide a clear paper trail of a watch’s history, can ensure that a watch comes with a manufacturer’s warranty and that parts are available should it need repair, and provide a trustworthy resource if the customer is dissatisfied for any reason. You’re also dealing with someone who’s intimately familiar with the brand. “You have the ability to speak with someone who has received the proper training on the brand you are considering,” says Hank B. Siegel of Hamilton Jewelers. Siegel says his service center sees thousands of watches each year, and the main issues are attractive fakes, genuine cases with fake movements, watches that were originally genuine but have been altered with non-genuine parts, genuine watches with fake warranty papers, watches reported stolen, and finally, watches that are genuine but without proper import documentation and duties paid, which leaves them subject to confiscation. “The bottom line is, unless you are buying from a retailer explicitly authorized by the watch brand, it’s buyer beware,” says Marc Green of Lux Bond & Green. “Whether from an auction house, website, non-authorized dealer, or anywhere else, there is always the looming question of whether something is genuine.” Authorized dealers are also imperative when having a watch serviced, as an unauthorized repairman could use counterfeit parts and turn your genuine, papers-and-all watch into a Frankenstein without your knowing it. “Some say authorized service centers are too expensive and take too long,” says Green. “We say you get what you pay for. You may take your Mercedes to the corner garage for a minor adjustment, but not when major parts are needed. With watches, you want them serviced correctly with a guarantee.”
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True luxury timepieces, like the Patek Philippe Ref. 5170R shown here, can only be purchased from and serviced by authorized retailers.
experts live here
Ring Sizing
Soldering
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timepieces
Desperately Seeking
DAYTONA What one young business exec wouldn’t do for the newest ROLEX… BY JARROD WEBER
M
y first recollection of a Rolex Daytona was this beautiful stainless steel work of art on my father’s wrist. Although I was too tied up with school, sports and dating to truly focus on watches, I couldn’t help but admire the pure beauty of this magnificent timepiece. Never since have I seen a watch I admired as much. So of course I felt tremendous joy when, upon graduating law school, my parents placed two green boxes with gold crown logos on our kitchen table. “Mom and I are so
proud of you,” my dad said, somewhat choked up. “We think you’ve earned your first Rolex.” He then opened both boxes: in the first was a brand new Rolex Daytona, the other contained the Daytona I’d always admired on his wrist. He asked which I wanted. I immediately chose my father’s for its sentimental value. I can’t think of any possession I’ve ever had or will ever have that means more to me than that Daytona. I’m sure that at the right time, my son will acquire this priceless family keepsake. But for right now, I want, I need, I crave, I simply must have the new Rolex Daytona with black dial and ceramic bezel. Ever since the extreme buzz surrounding its release at the Baselworld Watch Fair in March, I’ve been relentless in trying to figure out how to acquire this elusive prize. Most say there’s a five-year wait list... I can’t wait five weeks, let alone five years! The Daytona was the Rolex model first given out to winners at the Rolex 24 at Daytona Speedway. At some point in time, Paul Newman (himself a motorsports enthusiast and race car driver) started wearing it, and from then on, watch aficionados, collectors and guys in the know wanted nothing else. Since its launch in the 1960s, the watch has gone through a number of redesigns, all of which are now collector’s items that have appreciated significantly in value. The modern Daytona as we know it was released in the late 1980s; at that time, Rolex outsourced the movement to Zenith. In 2000, Rolex developed the capability to make the chronograph movement in house. They also made small cosmetic changes to the face of the watch (on the black dial, the sub-dials became silver rather than white; on the white dial, the sub-dials were also silver rather than black). For either dial option, purchasing a Rolex Daytona has become a dance of persuasion, persistence and finesse, convincing dealers to sell you one out of the maybe two or three watches they’ve been allotted. The release this year of the new stainless steel Daytona is the first significant design change since the ’80s. The bezel is now made of Cerachrom material that’s virtually scratch-resistant to ensure longevity. The sub-dials on the white dial are now black rather than silver, offering a bold contrast recalling Paul Newman’s iconic timepiece of yesteryear. Everyone wants one. All are told to put their names on the list. It’s an undisclosed list with obscure criteria: Are you famous? Are you quasi-
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famous? Will you be photographed in the watch? With whom? People are determined to figure this out. I’ve been on the hunt, calling dealers throughout the Tri-State area as well as across the country. Since Rolex authorized dealers are not permitted to ship out of state, a buyer needs to purchase in person. I’ve researched the home state of my alma mater (Michigan) discovering cities I didn’t know existed (to which I’ll be traveling if they call me!). My wife is Romanian and fluent in the language;
she’s phoned her home country and I believe I’m top of the list in Bucharest. Yesterday, my father and I attended a Rolex Daytona event. We tried on the watch and I’m more committed than ever to finding it. I’m on their wait list, but they were not all that encouraging. Leaving the event, I texted my wife: “Isn’t it time you visit your family in Romania?” (Editor’s note: Jarrod wrote this essay hoping it would move him up on the list. Sorry Jarrod, but you’ll have to wait in line with the rest of us!)
“
The Daytona was the Rolex model first given out to winners at the Rolex 24 at Daytona Speedway. At some point in time, Paul Newman started wearing it, and from then on, watch aficionados, collectors and guys in the know wanted nothing else.
’’
Left to right: Cosmograph Daytona in Yellow Rolesor, Cosmograph Daytona in 18K Everrose Gold with Leather Strap, Cosmograph Daytona in 18K Yellow Gold
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bridal
Wedding planning can be an emotional roller coaster. We asked licensed marriage and family therapist Marissa Nelson for advice on how to stay calm and enjoy
10TIPS
this special time in your life. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER
TOP
OW TO DEAL WITH DIFFICULT IN-LAWS: Remember, marriage is a transition for everyone. Relationships improve with time, effort and shared experiences. Be patient, be kind, and most important, don’t take things personally. HOW TO MANAGE CONFLICT IN YOUR BRIDAL PARTY: If you are unhappy with a bridesmaid’s actions, express yourself, says Nelson. Calmly talk to your friend about what you needed from her, how she upset or disappointed you, and how together you can move forward. WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR PARENTS DON’T LIKE YOUR FIANCÉ: Sit down with your parents without your other half. Clarify what their concerns are. Let them know that, while you understand, they should trust the way they raised you, Nelson advises. And remind them you know what’s best for you. Build respect and work towards acceptance through open lines of communication. HOW TO NAVIGATE WHO DOES AND DOESN’T MAKE THE GUEST LIST: It’s important to look around the room on your wedding day and have all the people that you love and have a bond with there, celebrating with you, says Nelson. Uninvited guests may be upset, but stick to your guns. Choose people because they’re special to you, not out of obligation. HOW TO GET YOUR GROOM INVOLVED: Your fiancé can contribute in different ways. Some give financial or emotional support. Others help closer to the wedding day, running errands or picking people up from the airport. Engage your fiancé so he feels his contribution matters, says Nelson. And don’t get upset if he isn’t involved in exactly the way you imagined. HOW TO KEEP THE PLANNING AS FUN AS THE WEDDING DAY: This wedding is a reflection of your personality and vision, so have fun and get
creative with unique touches that reflect who you are as a couple, says Nelson. Be silly. Enjoy being a bride and take it easy. This is time for pampering, and excitement about the future as a Mrs. HOW TO DEAL WITH LAST-MINUTE NERVES: Nerves are to be expected as you step into this new phase of your life. But don’t let those thoughts spiral to overwhelming you. Call on your bridesmaids or maid of honor to rally around you, with love, to calm you and assure you everything is going to be okay. HOW TO BE TRUE TO YOUR WEDDING DREAM EVEN IF OTHERS WANT SOMETHING ELSE: Being true to who you are as a couple means having a clear vision for your day, maintaining boundaries and keeping a united front. Know which wedding details are non-negotiable and which you are willing to compromise on, so that your family can be included in the process, suggests Nelson. HOW NOT TO FEEL OVERWHELMED EVEN WITHOUT A WEDDING PLANNER: Don’t try to take on every task by yourself or suffer in silence with a long to-do list. The key word is delegate. Have a team of friends and family that you trust to help execute your wedding vision. Most importantly, says Nelson, take everything one day at a time. SINGLE BEST ADVICE FOR THE WEDDING DAY: Detach yourself from the idea of perfection. You are stepping into and preparing for marriage. If some things don’t go as planned, it’s okay. Be present. Soak in all that is a day to celebrate love. Marissa Nelson is a licensed marriage and family therapist, an AASECT certified therapist and the founder of IntimacyMoons Couples & Singles Retreats.
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SHUTTERSTOCK
H
FOR BIG-DAY BLISS
IT’S MORE THAN A RING
INSURE ITS TRUE VALUE
bridal
Out of THE BOX
Personalize your special day by throwing away the rule book. BY JULIANNE PEPITONE
THE PARTY DOESN’T STOP HERE
ALTERNATIVE TREATS TAKE THE CAKE Artfully arranged cupcake towers became the trendiest way to ditch the wedding cake a few years ago, but now all kinds of alternatives exist—many of which don’t include cake at all. Donut towers: Like a Little Black Dress, this cake alternative can be dressed up or down: stacks of apple cider donuts with milk for a cozy-casual fall wedding, or carefully constructed towers of ganache-iced confections alongside espresso at more elegant affairs. Donut towers can look more traditional, too: Philadelphia-based Federal Donuts constructs displays of its treats on a tiered stand and adds decorative elements like flowers and ribbons, if desired. Ice cream: Think DIY sundae bars packed with toppings like decadent fudge and buttery toffee bits. Or build-it-yourself ice cream sandwich tables with loads of flavor options and gooey cookies to mix and match. For a pricier but super-fun treat, hire a good old ice cream truck to roll up as the celebration winds down. Tipsy Cones is a grown-up version of the Mr. Softee truck, offering alcoholic flavors like whiskey mash, drunken French toast and watermelon mojito ice. Throwback treats: Yes, weddings are about joining together as adults, but dessert inspires pure childlike joy. Los Angeles’ Cake Monkey specializes in gourmet versions of childhood faves like Ho Hos, Oreos and Little Debbies, whipped up with high-quality ingredients like bittersweet chocolate and fleur de sel.
The wedding was perfect, the reception was a blast… and now, the DJ is packing up as the venue staff turns on all the lights. It’s a bummer when the party comes to a close, but the fun doesn’t have to stop there. Planned wedding after-parties are on the rise, but informal post-nuptial hangouts are an easy way to keep the revelry going past midnight. A simple option: Rent space at a bar that’s within walking distance of the reception venue. Beach brides and grooms might invite guests to a post-bash bonfire, while winter couples can host a cozy s’moresroasting session with spiked coffee. Massachusetts teacher Jessica Dougherty and her husband Kerry opted to plan a post-wedding bowling session, complete with custom “Team Jerry” shirts, for their special day. They chose Point Lookout Resort in Maine specifically because the complex offered loads of fun options on the grounds, and they wanted to help create a full weekend getaway for their guests. “It was so funny to see the pairings—my high school friend’s husband bowling with Kerry’s friend from Italy,” Dougherty said. “But the real point was to have some downtime with the people who mean the most to us. I know it sounds a little corny, but we wanted the love, the moment, to last as long as possible.”
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ANYTHING GOES Rigid wedding-party rules once required matchymatchy dresses and an equal number of ’maids and ’men. But selecting the party is meant to honor the people in your life, regardless of gender, age or any centuries-old guidelines. Now, anything goes: a “bridesman,” “best woman,” or “man of honor,” and the 89-year-old who served as a bridesmaid in her granddaughter’s Pennsylvania wedding last year. Burberry employee Katelyn Venezia, 30, opted to forgo the traditional wedding party altogether for her July 2016 nuptials—but she still honored her closest friends, sans fuss. “I didn’t want them to feel pressure or strings attached,” Venezia explains. “I felt the practice of getting everyone together to try on dresses and then having them spend hundreds on something they won’t wear again was outdated.” So she wrote 10 girlfriends letters thanking them for their friendship and explaining her plan: she wanted the group to get ready together the morning of the wedding, but there would be no formal procession down the aisle and no matching gowns. The cards included an inspiration board, and Venezia invited each woman to choose her own dress for the wedding in one of those colors. “I wanted to let the girls know they are so special to me,” she says. “That’s what’s important— the friendships, not the bridesmaid dress.”
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bridal
Propose with one of these trending styles and post the good news!
#SHESAIDYES BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
A FEW FAVORITE CUTS Perhaps celebrity engagements (Blake Lively, Julianne Hough) have played a role in its popularity, for never in recent times has the oval been so in demand. “This fancy diamond cut is one way a bride can have something out of the ordinary,” says Guttery, “and depending on how the stone is cut it can really elongate the finger and look very graceful on your hand.” Nonetheless, according to The Knot’s study, 49% of modern brides still prefer the traditional round, while princess cuts come in as second most popular.
GEM AND METAL COLORS TO LOVE If you do decide on a classic round center diamond, another way to differentiate is by choosing a stone other than a white diamond. “Colored
gems are in vogue for bridal,” says Guttery, “especially ruby, emerald and all shades of sapphire.” He mentions aquamarine, too. Light blue gems and pink stones have notably become more sought-after in bridal since the Pantone Color Institute named Serenity (a pastel blue) and Rose Quartz (a light pink) as the 2016 Colors of the Year. A pink gemstone set in rose gold is a beautiful, feminine, tone-on-tone look. Just the same, says Baillie, “Our latest research shows that 68% of brides still want 18K or 14K white gold for their wedding rings.” That said, more and more, as women look for artisanal flair, they’re buying yellow gold, reports Guttery. “Specifically, rich and buttery 18-karat. The glow it gives off is radiating, and the textures and patterns in yellow gold look great.”
DESIGN ’N DETAIL Whether in the precious-metal surface of your wedding ring, the prongs and bezels holding the gems, or the overall aesthetic, today’s bride is looking for detail, Guttery emphasizes. “Even if a ring itself is simple, the head may have scrollwork, a shank might have an unusual pattern of pavé diamonds and cutouts, or the focus gem may be held by artistic prongs. Also, a lot of today’s designers are re-interpreting elements from past eras—Edwardian or Deco, for example—and incorporating them into their signature bridal styles. Something I’m definitely noticing is more ornate scrollwork.” One last thing: Before you begin your search for that once-in-a-lifetime ring, be sure to ask your jeweler about two-stone designs, including bypass styles. It’s a retro silhouette that’s made its way into modern bridal—and lots of (soon-to-be) engaged women are falling in love with it.
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IMAGES COURTESY OF HARRY KOTLAR, RAHAMINOV, PENNY PREVILLE
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hite, yellow, or rose gold? Round, square, or cushion cut? Classic, modern, or vintage style? When deciding on an engagement ring and wedding band, the choices may seem overwhelming. “We found that one bride-to-be went online and actually looked at 3,800 engagement rings in one day,” chuckles Bernadette Baillie, director of education for TheKnot.com. “That’s huge dedication!” Baillie recalls the story while discussing the results of her popular wedding site’s 2016 Luxury Bridal Jewelry & Engagement Ring Study, for which The Knot surveyed 13,000 Millennial couples. To help get your own research underway, we also spoke with jewelry expert Benjamin G. Guttery about what’s trending in wedding ring designs, diamond cuts and colors, precious metals and more. Guttery, a GIA graduate/jewelry trend forecaster/brand advocate, is also founder of the blog Third Coast Gems.
Know Your Diamond CARAT WEIGHT
COLOR GRADE
CLARITY GRADE
CUT GRADE
Look for diamonds graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs. Learn more at 4Cs.GIA.edu
CARLSBAD
ANTWERP
BANGKOK
DUBAI
GABORONE
HONG KONG
JOHANNESBURG
LONDON
MUMBAI
NEW YORK
RAMAT GAN
SEOUL
TAIPEI
TOKYO
spotlight
ROUGH IN THE
FOREVERMARK’s focus on helping women in need and strengthening mining communities. BY JULIANNE PEPITONE
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hen famed National Geographic photographer Annie Griffiths visited a South African diamond mine for the first time in 1981, she was surrounded by burly male guards who kept eyes on her as they strained to hear the radio report of Princess Diana’s wedding to Prince Charles. But when she visited again in July 2015 to chronicle women’s advancement programs, she found herself instead greeted by proud female entrepreneurs and mining workers. The women were part of De Beers’ Forevermark programs that support career training and development for women in the communities where it mines. It’s part of a larger sustainability focus aimed at “building forever”—that is, building up communities to be socioeconomically strong even after the local mines are eventually tapped. “We tend to think of diamonds as something frivolous or symbolic,” admits Griffiths. “I’ve been working in Southern Africa for years and it never occurred to me until I saw it that the diamond business could be a real force for good in the local community.” She met scores of women including Sophia Mphuthi, an entrepreneur who started her own driving school in Kimberley, South Africa, using money from De Beers’ Zimele fund. De Beers says the fund benefited over 62 South African businesses in 2014, creating over 1,175 jobs in farming, jewelry design and other areas. More than one-third of the people who benefited directly from that funding were women. Overall De Beers has spent about $28 million on socioeconomic development programs, according to Nicky Black, the company’s head of social performance. Nearly 50,000 people have benefited as a result of the programs, which focus on education, entrepreneurship, health care and
other core concerns. Through the initiative, Forevermark has trained women for careers as miners, geologists, engineers, craftspeople, managers and more. “For the consumer, [forever] connotes these intense eternal emotions,” explains Black. “But for the community, it means sustainable development. Where will we be in 20 years?” De Beers is acutely aware that mining communities are dependent on a finite resource, and investing in women and girls ensures a possibilityfilled future. “The science shows that women play a remarkable role as connectors and foundation stones of their communities,” Black says. “When you support a woman you are in turn supporting her family, the community and society.” It makes business sense, too, Black insists, citing studies that show “if you spend a dollar on a woman’s development you get more bang for your buck than almost any other intervention, including inoculation and sewage. The actual outcome is greatest, and that’s what ‘forever’ means to us.” The efforts in South Africa mirror De Beers’ larger focus on building up its female workforce across the world. Women comprise nearly 24 percent of global employees, compared to 16 percent in the mining industry as a whole. “We’re outperforming the industry and we’re pleased by that, but I think everyone would say that’s still not enough,” Black says. “We’re working to change it.”
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™ are Trade Marks of The De Beers Group of Companies. ® and © Forevermark 2016. Forevermark ®,
It’s a long journey to become the one. In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection. This is why less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark inscription – our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.
PerfectGEMS
Explore the little luxuries the world has to offer. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
BALI HIGH
As if lolling on the sandy beaches of Bali wasn’t enough to lure you to this tropical paradise, the Ritz Carlton Bali has added another temptation. Their special Sarong Concierge, Tresna Dewi, will take guests on a halfday journey that includes seeing samples of local textiles used to make sarongs, visiting an artisan workshop to witness the behind-the-scenes production process of Endek (Bali’s capital’s official cloth), getting an etiquette lesson on how to wear and walk elegantly in the garment, and then visiting a nearby Hindu temple, clad in their sarongs, where they can take in the site’s beautiful décor and hand carvings. Is there a better way to be a local culture vulture?
THE GOLD STANDARD We already know how lovely gold can look on your neck, wrists or ears, but it turns out it’s even better on your face. Euphorie Cosmetics’ Le Royal Luxury 24K Gold skincare line uses the precious metal in everything from an anti-aging eye mask to a cellular serum, all-day moisturizer, facial peeling gel, night cream and filler cream—and with good reason. Gold restores lost elasticity to tissue, slows down collagen depletion and breaks down elastin to prevent sagging skin. Now, your face’s luster can match the shine of your favorite pieces of jewelry!
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The LUXURY of LAUGHTER C
artoons are always good for a laugh, but sometimes, they’re equally good at making us take a closer look at society. Nowhere was that truer than the cartoons featured from 1877 to 1917 in the magazine Puck, many of which are on display as part of With a Wink and a Nod: Cartoonists of the Golden Age at Chicago’s Richard H. Dreihaus Museum. The exhibition, which features 74 rare original drawings for the magazine, also includes illustrated commentary on America’s upper class by such artists as Samuel Ehrhart, Louis Dalrymple and Franklin Howarth. A companion exhibition, Gilded Age Luxury, showcases more than a dozen small luxury goods from the same period, including J.P. Morgan’s own walking stick. We suggest you run and see it before January 8, when these exhibits will close.
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Heavenly REST
ost beds are for getting a good night of ZZZs, but not Swiss artist Conor Mccreedy’s latest art installation, My Blue Heaven. This ingenious, glass-encased design uses the artist’s famous Mccreedyblue pigment combined with the finest white leather, gold/brass pin buttons, and, most importantly, a specially created bed from Bernarda Beds made from the finest micro wood and top-quality silver. The wood base under the box spring was crafted from naturally fallen Austrian trees so it absorbs humidity, and the silver technology prevents any germs. As for the mattress, forget Sealy or Serta—it was personally commissioned and modeled exactly on the artist’s body and weight, movements and comforts. This one-of-a-kind work is currently traveling the world’s most renowned art fairs, and is expected to be on view during Art Basel Miami in December.
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THANKS
for the memories
Contrary to popular belief, not everyone finds taking a great photograph as easy as point and shoot. For travelers who lack even the most basic camera skills, or want to leave both their camera and cell phone behind, there’s Flytographer. This very clever service, now available in 175 of the world’s major cities, connects you online with one of its 350 qualified photographers, who can join you on your trip and capture those precious memories clearly and beautifully. And while the results are not instantly available, you only have to wait a mere five business days to see the finished product—which you’ll then have a lifetime to savor.
PURE FORM
BRUCE G. WEBER ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
FALL/ WINTER 2016/17