FINKS

ACC E N T T H E M AG A Z I N E OF LIFE’S C E L E B R AT I O N S SPRING/SUMMER 2012

CELEBRATE SPRING!

Fashion Favorites Watchmaking: The Next Generation Last Bid for Love

E VERY ROLE X IS MADE FOR GRE ATNE S S. THE DATE JUST, INTRODUCED IN 1945, WA S THE FIR ST WR IST WATCH TO D ISPL AY THE DATE THROUG H AN APER TURE ON THE D I AL . ITS UNIQUE M AG NIF Y ING CYCLOP S E Y E , ADDED A FEW YE ARS L ATER, BECAME RECOGNIZED AS A ROLE X DESIGN STANDARD. ADMIRED FOR ITS CL A S SIC DESIGN, THE DATE JUST BECAME A N I CO N I C S Y MB O L O F S T Y L E .

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Dear Clients and Friends, The season of celebrations is upon us! Whether it’s Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations, birthdays or engagements, spring is a time to celebrate the people we love. One of the things I enjoy most about being in the jewelry business is helping customers select a special piece to commemorate one of life’s milestones. When my son turned 21 years old, I gave him his first fine Swiss timepiece. As he grows up and moves through life, I wanted him to have something that was not only practical, but would serve as a remembrance for such a special milestone in his life.

Spring fashion is all about color this season and our stores are exploding with the newest collections by the industry’s hottest designers. From the new David Yurman blue-toned Elements collection featuring aqua and blue chalcedony, to Ippolita’s bright red, turquoise and multi-colored Riviera collection, each of our 16 stores has an incredible selection for spring!

I hope you enjoy browsing through our latest edition of Accent magazine. This is a great issue filled with gift ideas, designer profiles and an expanded watch section. We look forward to seeing you in the coming months as we help you celebrate the special moments in your life.

Marc Fink, President and CEO

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Contents spring/summer 2012

W W W. F I N K S . C O M

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CHAIRMAN & CEO MARC FINK EVP & CFO WALT GAYNOR V P O P E R AT I O N S MARK BAIR V P I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O L O G I E S

FEATURES

TODD STAFFORD DIRECTOR OF MARKETING

1 Welcome Letter

LINDSEY KIRBY

4 Fink’s Family Profile: Rob Matthews

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER

6 Fink’s Family Profile: Jeannene Stephenson

STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

8 Events: It’s a Good Thing

DESIGN DIRECTOR

10 Fink’s Gift Guide

HANS GSCHLIESSER

16 Accent Advisor

MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

18 Designers: Penny Preville

PROJECT MANAGER

20 Profile: Forevermark

LISA MONTEMORRA

22 Trends: Renewal

DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO

24 Designers: Marco Bicego

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

26 Profile: John Hardy

PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE

28 From the Runways

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

44 Travel: Eco-Immersion

HUGH K. STANTON

48 Red Carpet

BRITTON JONES

50 Wellness: Haute Healthcare

CHAIRMAN AND COO

52 End Page: Last Bid for Love

MAC BRIGHTON

WATCH SECTION

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

33 Collecting: Time on His Side

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;

34 Winders: Winding it Up

Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publish-

38 Profile: Michele Watches

ers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this

40 Celebrity Ambassador:

magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the

Steffi Graf for Longines

publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and

42 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

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FOREVERMARK DIAMOND NECKLACE. COVER ILLUSTRATION BY DARIA JABENKO.

PRESIDENT AND CEO

Store Manager Barracks Road Shopping Center

Fink’s Family Profile

ROB MATTHEWS

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R

ob Matthews has been in the jewelry business for over 20 years, having been everywhere from big box stores to mom & pop shops. In 2002, he came to join the Fink’s family as the assistant manager at our Regency Square Mall location in Richmond, Virginia, and made the transition with us as that store relocated to Short Pump Town Center. When our first store in Charlottesville, Virginia opened in 2007, Rob took up the position as store manager.

While Rob is a modest man, he recognizes the degree of success that he’s had, and he’s certainly happy to share the credit.

He is quick to note that the working environment at Fink’s is a large contributor to his success, saying, “We’re small enough to maintain the hands-on approach and core values of a smaller company, but large enough to carry all of the best brands and have the buying power to bring our clients the best value.” That buying power has given Rob the opportunity to work with what he calls the top quality and top brands that the industry has to offer.

Out of Fink’s top quality inventory, Rob still considers himself a sucker for engagement rings. “I guess I’m kind of sentimental like that!” He loves being part of such a special occasion in someone’s life, but also enjoys the detail-oriented technique that diamonds require. Selling a diamond is always a special experience, from viewing it under the microscope to that moment when the customer knows it’s ‘The One!’ Rob says, “I think a diamond is the ultimate symbol of love and commitment that someone can give or receive.”

When Rob isn’t busy managing his store in Charlottesville, he also travels to help train and recruit employees at some of our newer Fink’s locations. When he finally gets some down time, Rob enjoys family time, American sports cars, watching football and golfing. Though he loves his job immensely, Rob is a beach bum at heart. He tells us, “If I weren’t selling jewelry, I’d be sitting on the beach watching the waves come in, feeling the ocean breeze and working on my tan!”

JEANNENE STEPHENSON Store Manager Thomas Jefferson Crossings

Fink’s Family Profile

M

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r. Fink has always believed in promoting from within. That being said, Jeannene Stephenson is a perfect example of how loyalty and dedication is rewarded at Fink’s Jewelers. She began her career as an office assistant in October 2001 and was soon promoted to office manager of the Triangle Town Center location in Raleigh, North Carolina. Jeannene’s sales and customer service skills continued to shine and in 2007, she became the assistant manager at Triangle Town Center. A short time later, an opportunity for a new store manager at the Fink’s Jewelers in Forest, Virginia became available. Jeannene was the perfect fit and enthusiastically accepted the new challenge.

Having held four different positions during her tenure at Fink’s, Jeannene understands the nuances that make a store run smoothly, and her store is definitely a well-oiled machine. One task in particular that Jeannene holds in high regard is the need to take care of her customers from A to Z. She explains: “One of the unique features that sets Fink’s apart is our service to the customer before, during and after the sale.” She also feels that Fink’s Jewelers has a unique advantage in the Lynchburg area. She says, “We’re able to offer the selection you find in bigger cities, coupled with the service you expect from a locally owned business. It’s a perfect combination.”

When asked what she loves to sell most, Jeannene exclaims, “Diamonds!” Fink’s carries some of the most sought-after bridal designers, but Ritani is her favorite. In fact, she just had her own classic diamond stud earrings remounted into beautiful Ritani settings. “Today, many brides are looking for unique styles. They want their ring to be special, one of a kind,” she explains. “Ritani does the most exquisite custom work. They can take a customer’s vision and make it into a reality.” This means a lot to Jeannene, who believes in exceeding her customer’s expectations whenever possible.

In addition to running her store, Jeannene balances a full personal life.

This past year has been devoted to helping her son plan his wedding, and her excitement over her soon-to-be daughter in-law. They all took a recent trip together to Steamboat Springs, Colorado for another of Jeannene’s favorite activities—skiing! Jeannene is also an accomplished flutist and is very active with the Lynchburg Symphony Orchestra. She has always enjoyed working with children and says that if she weren’t in the jewelry business, she would be teaching little ones how to ski. It’s no wonder she stays so organized… she’s got a lot to juggle. “I wouldn’t have it any other way,” she says with a smile.

EVENTS

Below: Fink’s president and CEO Marc Fink poses with Abigail Bartley, area director for the American Cancer Society.

Below: Survivor models Heidi Witthoeft, Sandra Niven and Barbara Myers get together for a picture.

Above: Survivor models Areta Johnson, Chi Dzienny, Carmen Courtney and Susan Harbin all pose with Marc Fink.

Left: Survivor models Jean Crawford, Deb Thomas, and Jo Brooks show off their stunning David Yurman jewelry!

IT’S A GOOD THING FINK’S JEWELERS AND DAVID YURMAN JOINED FORCES IN A MONTH-LONG INITIATIVE TO SUPPORT THE FIGHT AGAINST BREAST CANCER.

L

ast October, Fink’s Jewelers and David Yurman joined forces in a month-long initiative to support the fight against breast cancer. Fink’s president and CEO, Marc Fink, considers this a very personal cause, as someone whose family has been affected by the disease over many generations. “Several members of my family have battled the disease, and because of this, I’m passionate about supporting the search for a cure and raising awareness,” says Marc.

Knowing he wanted to do something special during the month of October (National Breast Cancer Awareness Month), Marc approached David Yurman and requested his artistic talent in creating an exclusive bracelet to commemorate—and raise funds for—the cause.

“My wife Sybil and I know that one in eight women will be diagnosed with breast cancer in their lifetimes, and we wanted to contribute to the fight against this disease,” says David Yurman. “When Marc Fink approached us about a special-edition piece for the cause, we embraced the opportunity and created this spiritual bead bracelet, which is meant to serve as a reminder of strength and courage for those battling breast cancer.”

The bracelet was sold exclusively in all 17 Fink’s Jewelers locations throughout the month of October, with 10% of proceeds going back to the American Cancer Society in each local market.

It was important to Marc that the month not only be focused on fighting this devastating disease, but also celebrating survival. So in addition to the exclusive bracelet, Fink’s hosted seven in-store events in select markets throughout the month. During these private events, customers enjoyed light hors d’oeuvres and cocktails while previewing the latest collections from David Yurman. As part of the celebration, breast cancer survivors were pre-selected and asked to model a wardrobe of David Yurman jewelry. During the events, Fink’s Jewelers donated an additional 5% of all proceeds from the evening back to the American Cancer Society.

After selling over 200 bracelets and hosting several successful events, Fink’s Jewelers and David Yurman proudly donated over $18,000 back to the American Cancer society. “As the owner of a family business, I feel it is my duty to give back to the communities we serve. It is my mission to honor the women and men that battle breast cancer and help support the fight for future generations.”

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VIRGINIA

(Toll Free 888.699.7464)

Roanoke 419 at Colonial Avenue..................................... 540.342.2991 Valley View Mall ............................................... 540.362.3779 Lynchburg 16960 Forest Road ............................................ 434.237.6301 Charlottesville Barracks Road Shopping Center........................ 434.284.4060 Richmond Chesterfield Towne Center ................................ 804.379.7171 Short Pump Town Center ................................. 804.377.8589 Stony Point Fashion Park .................................. 804.261.9371 Fredericksburg The Village at Spotsylvania Towne Centre......... 540.736.1290 Dulles Dulles Town Center .......................................... 571.434.6540 McLean Tysons Corner Center ....................................... 703.584.3101 Norfolk MacArthur Center ............................................ 757.640.1132

NORTH CAROLINA

(Toll Free 800.566.7464)

Greensboro 1951 Battleground Avenue................................ 336.292.8355 Charlotte Northlake Mall ................................................. 704.927.4888 SouthPark ......................................................... 704.366.3120 Raleigh Triangle Town Center ....................................... 919.792.2171 Durham The Streets at Southpoint ................................. 919.281.8407 Opening this fall at North Hills shopping center in Raleigh!

www.finks.com

MIKIMOTO From the Morning Dew collection, Akoya cultured pearls with diamonds in 18k gold.

Drop earrings, $2,200 and 18” pendant, $1,380 The Akoya Special Edition Set features an 18” strand with 18k yellow gold and diamond clasp together with matching stud earrings, $3,950.

NORMAN SILVERMAN Rings available in a variety of carat weights and prices. Let our GLDPRQG VSHFLDOLVWV KHOS \RX ÀQG WKH SHUIHFW RQH IRU KHU WRGD\ From left to right: Fancy yellow center diamond ring, starting at $27,000 Split shank diamond ring, starting at $9,050 Fancy yellow center diamond ring, $25,500 Earrings with natural fancy yellow center diamonds, $21,000 All platinum settings

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DAVID YURMAN From the ElementsTM collection in sterling silver, spiritual bead bracelet in aqua chalcedony, moonquartz and blue chalcedony, $950 36� beaded necklace featuring aqua chalcedony, aquamarine, blue chalcedony and moonquartz, $2,900 Blue chalcedony drop earrings, $550 Women’s Classic Quartz watch in steel and 18k gold with white mother of pearl diamond dial and diamond bezel, $6,800

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JOHN HARDY In this Year of the Dragon, the Naga collection brings to life the Balinese legend of the dragon, a revered mythological creature symbolizing prosperity, love and success.

Small round drop earrings, $695 18� small round drop pendant, $895 Square rings in green amethyst, amethyst and blue topaz, $995 each Naga band, $495 Square rings in citrine, $995 and hematite, $895 All in settings of sterling silver and 18k gold

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PENNY PREVILLE Blue has long been Penny Preville’s favorite color and in this spring collection she has taken a fresh, modern approach with bright, lively colored turquoise gemstones.

34” turquoise and diamond signature chain in 18k gold, $9,990 Matching oval turquoise necklace with pavé diamonds, $3,140 Matching triple drop turquoise earrings, $3,845

ROBERTO COIN From the Primavera collection, small rings in woven 18k rose, yellow and white gold, $540 each Stretch bracelets in woven 18k yellow, white and rose gold with signature ruby that brings “great happiness and good fortune” to its wearer, $1,900 each

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CARELLE Multi-faceted rose cut stones and a sleek satin ÀQLVK DOOXGH WR WKH G\QDPLF DQG FRORUIXO ZRPHQ who inspire Carelle’s Signature collection.

Single drop earrings in blue topaz and green quartz, $1,235 24mm green quartz ring, $2,785 All in settings of 18k yellow gold

MARCO BICEGO Amethyst, lemon citrine, peridot, yellow quartz, blue topaz, pink and green tourmaline, green amethyst, champagne quartz: each stone in the Jaipur collection is unique among its peers and each is set in 18k hand-engraved gold to create a celebration of organic “imperfection” inspired by nature.

Short drop earrings, $1,230 39.5” necklace, $2,520 Bangle, $3,070

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IPPOLITA The spring/summer 2012 Wonderland collection in Paradise bursts with vibrant Mediterraneaninspired hues and bold, sexy silhouettes.

Sterling silver 5-stone ring, $495 Sterling silver 3-stone pendant necklace, $995.

Sterling silver gelato bangle, $1,095

OMEGA

BREITLING

TAG HEUER

Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, 45.5mm with matte black ceramic bezel on stainless steel bracelet, $8,200

Colt Chronograph II, 44mm, in steel with stratus silver dial and Professional bracelet, $3,850

Formula 1, 32mm, in steel and ceramic, with white diamond dial, $2,600 (Also available in black)

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Carrera 16 Heritage Automatic Chronograph, 41mm, in steel with spiral dial and brown alligator strap, $4,500

ACCENT(ADVISOR) WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESS PIECES ARE MOST LIKELY TO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece that becomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautiful strand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocery store or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece of jewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.

We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited, jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one item this year, make it special and enduring.

I KNOW WOMEN WHO WEAR FASHION JEWELRY LIKE BANGLES OR BOLD CUFFS, BUT BUY THESE PIECES AT CLOTHING STORES AS OPPOSED TO JEWELERS (EVEN IF THEY HAVE TO REPURCHASE THE PIECES WHEN THEY TARNISH). WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balance trendy fashion jewelry that they don’t expect to last forever with items that they cherish, wear often and want to last.

Since a great bangle is a classic that will be in style forever, it’s worth investing in something both fabulous and enduring.

For both ladies and gents, a good watch is an absolute must! If you can invest in only one great piece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylish watch to enjoy for many years. It should cross over into any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buying both a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in the interim, one great watch transcends numerous styles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strand of pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven) shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-witheverything item to wear with denim or ball gowns; and 3) a necklace or pendant with personal meaning, like your children’s names or initials, an important date, a display of faith or spirituality. (If you’ve ever noticed women constantly touching their necklaces, it’s likely because they feel an emotional connection to the symbol.)

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WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND ESTATE JEWELRY? “Estate” is a popular jewelry label, but does not specify the period of manufacture. “Estate” is primarily used to describe jewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generally applies to jewelry items that are at least 100 years old, the benchmark used by government officials for duty-free importing of antiques.

For spring 2012, everything old is new again, so consider both of these options, or try resetting one of your own family heirlooms.

HONORA PEARLS, MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA BRACELETS

WHICH ITEMS SHOULD I CONSIDER BUYING THIS SEASON?

DESIGNERS

Signature Style PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE AND FABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

W

orld renowned for its elegance, innovation and unique attention to detail, Penny Preville jewelry has been worn by fashionable women from Jackie Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an exclusive interview with the designer.

How did you first get interested in jewelry design?

As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.

But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box, overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels: exquisite pieces from different eras that my grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try them on, dream about them. My other grandmother was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I loved art history, re-living different eras.

Describe your jewelry and the process to create it.

Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail: beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in New York City: we start with an original model and most of the work is done by hand: engraving, stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on the piece, the process can take a few days to a few months.

What inspires your designs?

Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.

Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian, Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)

How would you describe your personal style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?

There are two sides to me: very driven and practical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.

My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a wide scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear everyday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got from her mother…

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You work with your husband and two sons: how hard is it to combine business and family?

It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay (who started the business with me) manages financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32) and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and will hopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boys to join us: growing up, they were into sports and showed little interest in the business.

What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?

Long chains, statement earrings, bangles and cuffs to mix and match, collectibles, different stones, blackened metals and lots of color (especially blues!). I also believe in the mystical powers of certain stones—for strength or for protection.

What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?

It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides insight into who she is as a person: spiritual, sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621

Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PROFILE

THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

QUINTESSENTIAL DIAMONDS F

or those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark, part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expert for 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained master craftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bear the Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we among them) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.

Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, these superlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a unique identification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of the inscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair) and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal quality of the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and added security. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute in Antwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity and accuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, your guarantee of excellence and authenticity.

Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermark diamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the company goes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcing actively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countries committed to the highest business, social and environmental standards.

Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonder Forevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman, Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on and off the red carpet.

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TRENDS

T

here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.

Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of childhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman, for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow, “Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and “Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTS

RENEWAL! THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS, NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important, so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.”

DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.

Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem slices with complementary opaque stones.”

SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like natural light shining through a stained glass window.

Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides, depending on the designer’s individual vision.

Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think about gemstone-slice earrings if you want something lightweight and, at the same time, very flattering; they bring light and color near the face.”

ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the most part, three dimensional, almost sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.

Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs with rough cuts are a great choice.”

ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up everywhere.

spessartite garnet, red agate.

A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This transparent diaspore gem, found only in Turkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interesting color-change properties— from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink—it’s certainly out of the ordinary, and the perfect choice for anyone looking for something unique or a true conversation starter.

Other favorites: chrysoprase, green agate, peridot, green opal, green jade, green quartz, green amethyst, green garnet, green tourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately, citrine has been particularly popular, both for its color and the variety of cutting styles being used on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the fancy of a growing number of typically high-end designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new, March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes, aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea— captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.

A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is well liked in its blue and green varieties, too.

“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT ADDING GEMSTONE JEWELRY TO THE LIST OF NATURAL MOOD ELEVATORS.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely means these gems will get even more popular as we progress through 2012.

A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: These radiant orange-red gemstones are renowned in legend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche. That said, you may have to pay the price for that profound sensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressive and fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color and transparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

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Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by Stephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Road collection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone, aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and blue topaz doublet

DESIGNERS

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COLOR POPS WARM GOLD AND SATURATED SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

The bold spheres and jewels of the Africa collection are tangible and pronounced, yet remarkably light.

n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an emotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection, filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the destinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors, exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course, he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

GETTING PERSONAL

What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration.

What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani.

What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!

Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to debut my newest collections.

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PROFILE

SCALING BACK JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGA COLLECTION WITH FIERY NEW DESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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irst introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th year in business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragon and the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.

At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, the water dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land and brought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer and creative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Naga collection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune, prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to help the Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as a collaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “a business can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “Greener Everyday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmental conservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even the black palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s Hong Kong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compound is a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mud structures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for the entire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Bali by these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served as jewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragon heads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Crafted from sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semiprecious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings are rich with detail, inside and out.

“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGA COLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.” –GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER 26

Available at:

Gold GO FOR THE

IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

FROM THE RUNWAYS

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Dark

AND DANGEROUS

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COURTESY LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM

WATCHES

FOCUS: COLLECTING

by David A. Rose

TIME ON HIS SIDE SCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

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As a world famous racecar driver still at the top of his game, it’s remarkable that Pruett makes time for other ventures. He and his wife Judy have joined forces to establish Pruett Vineyard, as well as Word Weaver Books, publishers of a series of children’s books they authored. Not surprisingly, the theme is racing, including titles like Twelve Little Race Cars, Rookie Racer and Racing Through the Alphabet.

Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racing career, these books provide inspiration and excitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business, Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrums apart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literally minute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.

Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process; the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend of chemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m not one of these athletes who puts my name on a project without involvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved in every aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help of some incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has raced every year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was another extraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.

“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “so being the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted: I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

ROLEX / TOM O'NEAL

mong the many rewards of success in sports, perhaps the best is garnering the respect and admiration of fans and peers. But for those athletes competing in Rolex-sponsored events, the grand prize comes in the form of a luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set for themselves long before they’re strapped into their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn, California, is a true champion in all forms of motor sports, with the additional honor of having won more Rolex-sponsored races than any other driver. Thus, he has become the proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times and was awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. In all, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for his brilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “When I won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and Ford Motor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as the International Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to be invited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I were ever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolex timepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California, and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on to take the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy my first beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruett also bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

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FOCUS: WINDERS

by Laurie Kahle

WINDING IT UP TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—the ultimate of which is a completely custom installation.

(Continued)

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SEREIN DIAMOND

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.

Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests, and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your watch on a winder is also about preventative maintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to accommodate your ever-growing collection and cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,” explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard configuration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.

The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches and jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors, storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design emulates the muscular curves of the One-77 supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited production of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building a custom room, like the space commissioned by one of Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,” explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room (basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight months from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

Winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit.

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Š 2012 Carelle

FOCUS: PROFILE

by Randi Molofsky

SO HOT THEY’RE COOL MICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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walk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulates much of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an Art Deco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with an innate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.

The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit of flash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’s seaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.

Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from the Jelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chic standouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepieces make a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern take on a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular pattern and oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’s round case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel and chronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is also reinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-atme neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals in mint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’s commitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety of straps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather, cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze, whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

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Create a charm bracelet one memory at a time.

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADOR

by David A. Rose

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t the third annual Women Who Make a Difference awards sponsored by Longines and Town & Country, tennis legend, philanthropist and Longines ambassador Steffi Graf was a presenter honoring the three recipients: Ann McGee, Gracie Cavnar and Ann Tisch. All four women dedicate themselves to improving the future prospects of underprivileged children, and there’s something to be said for someone who rose to the pinnacle of her sport, maintained numberone status in the tennis world for over three years straight, and upon her retirement has devoted herself to children in need.

Children for Tomorrow, the non-profit founded by Graf, initiates projects that provide assistance to children and families who have become victims of war, persecution and violence. Her gentle nature and subtle manner may give the impression that she’s too sweet and kind to manage the rigors of such an undertaking. But anyone who has seen her play tennis will know better of the woman who has compiled a record of 902 wins (against only 115 losses) with her overpowering forehand and dominant playing style.

Graf is widely considered to be the greatest female tennis player of the 20th century. Her career spanned two decades, during which she won Wimbledon seven times, the French Open six times, the U.S. Open five times and the Australian Open four times. Graf says that “winning the French Open in 1999, after knee surgery and the physical and mental struggles I went through to get back into shape,” was one of her greatest accomplishments. “Having gone through all that to win my last Grand Slam was a high point for me, and certainly the most satisfying experience in my tennis career. But I cannot compare a successful career in tennis with the satisfaction I get from working with my Children For Tomorrow foundation. My husband [Andre Agassi] says it extremely well: When we were on the tennis court we were able to entertain people for a short period of time, but being in children’s lives, changing their trajectories and bringing them hope is so much more important and more satisfying than any victory in a given sport. Tennis gave me the platform to do what I am able to do now with my foundation: raising awareness—and funds—for helping children.”

With regard to her Longines partnership, Graf says, “I have always believed in synergy. Longines and I share many beliefs, especially with regard to quality; Longines represents the highest of standards. Perhaps more significant from my point of view is their commitment to giving back to communities. They have been such a support to my foundation (as well as many others). Another reason I’m so happy to be a spokesperson for Longines is that I love watches. I’ve always found a watch to be an essential part of my life. As a tennis player, if you’re lucky enough to win a match you often get a watch. As far back as my junior tournaments (I used to play in the Goofy Cup), I can remember winning a Mickey Mouse watch. Later on in my career, of course, the watches became more precious. My favorite timepiece is definitely the Longines Conquest. I love its elegance combined with its more casual styling.”

Though she’s given up competing in the spotlight, Graf confides, “I still enjoy getting out on the court, but it doesn’t happen very often unless it’s for my foundation or Andre’s foundation, where we might give lessons or play exhibition games to raise money. We really do enjoy playing when we get the chance.”

From where we sit, it looks like Graf is still winning.

A WOMAN FOR ALL SEASONS

JOHN RUSSEL

IN A WORLD WHERE PEOPLE ARE CONSUMED WITH THEIR OWN WELL-BEING, IT’S RARE TO FIND SOMEONE TRULY CHARITABLE. STEFFI GRAF IS A REMARKABLE WOMAN WHOSE HUMILITY AND HUMANITY TRANSCEND EVEN HER NOTORIETY.

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING

by Karen Alberg Grossman

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed principal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable, well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, established in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally separate from the Rolex Service Center upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally responsible for creating and updating the curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students (there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two years, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80 applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose problems just visually. You need to analyze based on input and output of the mechanism: it’s behaving a certain way so the problem must be this or that. You can’t always see the problem because many watches are built in layers, so the movements might be covered, or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatest frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this, but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because even if the student has worked on hundreds of watches, the next movement that comes along might be totally different than anything he’s experienced. So it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the puzzle together: students need to understand what the parts do and how they interact and whether or not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water damage where parts are caked together), because even if spare parts are not available, we can always make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the ‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and mostly male; there are only one or two females per class), in a second career but with some previous exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some exposure, at least they know what the profession is about: having to deal all day long with these tiny parts, the responsibility of working on such valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent applicants have included bankers and real estate brokers, some from major cities. “People have more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.

“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who want jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer, “It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of the curriculum.”

On a personal note, Mayer grew up in Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused on philology and teaching. But at some point, his love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking, which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and ultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a collector: he wears a different watch every day and favors those that combine technical precision with a beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz program that he even lets his students work on his personal watches (excluding vintage handmade pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course: Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inherited from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII, the economy was down so he drove a taxi on weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get replacement parts because their factory had burned down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

“Nobody buys a fine watch just to tell time…”

—Herman Mayer

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TRAVEL

The view from the lounge attached to one of the suites at Amangiri makes the desert seem like a private space.

Coffee is always available for early risers on the Ecoventura yachts in the Galapagos Islands.

ECO-IMMERSION

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t its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world is new. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes every sound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journey of coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN: Cruise the Galapagos with Ecoventura The arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days as Ecoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador stands outside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabin vessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’s least-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone, you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes across black lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird and animal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche of the islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosity rather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

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AMANGIRI IMAGES COURTESY OF AMANGIRI RESORT. GALAPAGOS IMAGES BY PATRICIA HARRIS & DAVID LYON.

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOU TO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

I M AG I N E

T H E P L AC E S T H E Y W I L L G O .

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lions let photographers snap their portraits with abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises) are spectacular in the Galapagos Islands.

The step pool at the spa at Amangiri glows in the falling light of dusk.

The giant tortoises of the Galapagos Islands are one of the region’s endangered species.

All the bungalows at Lapa Rios in Costa Rica are constructed of thatch.

The foot hue of blue-footed boobies varies by individual.

STRANGE CREATURES INHABIT THEIR OWN GARDEN OF EDEN

footed boobies in their comic courtship dance. Male frigate birds nearly roll over backwards on their nests, incapacitated by the red chest pouches they have inflated to lure a mate.

The strange creatures inhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing their pups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoises lumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs skitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife, but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.

(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS: Costa Rica Escape at Lapa Rios Lapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowland rainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitive tourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in the forest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches and tree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the human exception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song to add to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora and fauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous, distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforest experience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of El Remanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls. laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS: The Purifying Desert at Amangiri For thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenation in the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peaceful mountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the raw landscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as a whispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the 25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-body treatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translates as “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, daily group yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. But nothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle of illumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars. amanresorts.com

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RED CARPET

Blonde Bombshells WITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE, WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD

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ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER

CLAIRE DANES

hough the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

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HEARD AND PFEIFFER WEAR H. STERN. DANES WEARS MCL.

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings, stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY

KATHERINE HEIGL

MARLEY SHELTON

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent KEIBLER WEARS MCL. HEIGL WEARS SUTRA. SHELTON WEARS AMRAPALI.

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

49

WELLNESS

HAUTE HEALTHCARE W

hen was the last time you went to a spinning class with your doctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together?

Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One “new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine.

Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primary care physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to top specialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patients also pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designed not only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but also to educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory is that a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to become savvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness.

One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company with over 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 states and the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to $1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians who wanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primary care model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to put the patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they became sick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison, MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison, the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s not unusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s

estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less with each patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to address the symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors cap their practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day, allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has a patient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of 96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalized significantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiaries have 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer.

Other member-based companies are gaining recognition for infusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health, based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies, helping them with costs and enabling them to provide better healthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involves mobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitioner comes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offering dedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellness counseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s like Marcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve brought back and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing.

Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth.

With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just be a matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarket outings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.

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I STOCK

BOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

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END PAGE

LAST BID FOR LOVE

AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

M

y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this 1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’ “soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras, I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie.

I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection— including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond complementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the “Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the “ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

52

FINK’S JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2012