THE AIR-KING A tribute to the golden age of aviation in the 1930s, featuring a prominent minute scale for navigational time-readings. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
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OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING
CONTENTS
Volume 2. 2016. H A M I LT O N J E W E L E R S PRINCETON, NJ 609-771-6010 HAMILTONJEWELERS.COM CHAIRMAN MARTIN SIEGEL
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PRESIDENT HANK B. SIEGEL VICE PRESIDENT DONNA J. BOUCHARD VICE PRESIDENT DAVID S. KASTER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CHRISTOPHER D. NAVARRO
PUBLISHED BY T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER
4 Welcome Letter
STU NIFOUSSI
6 Pantone Fashion Color Report
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
10 What’s Trending
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
12 Temple St. Clair: Sacred Amulets C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
14 From the Runways
HANS GSCHLIESSER
18 The Rarefied Realm of Natural Color Diamonds
MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
22 Trends: The Cutting Edge of Edgy
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26 As Seen On… 28 Tudor: Return of the Black Bay 30 The Year in Review
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
34 Timepieces: Watch Out!
PRODUCTION MANAGER
36 Speed: The Czar of Historic Racing
PEG EADIE
38 Rolex: Desperately Seeking Daytona 40 Timepieces: Celebrity Watch Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
42 Forevermark: In the Rough
depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2016.
52 Amenities: Jet-set Pets
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58 Food: Nuevo Mexico 60 Wine: Sparkling Diversions 62 Giving Back: Pass it On
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64 Matte Interiors: A Matter of Fact
BRIDAL SECTION
66 Insurance: Better Safe Than Sorry
46 #SheSaidYes
68 Watch World: Chronographs
48 Out of the Box
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72 Jade Trau: Talent and Luck
50 Natural Wonders
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D E A R
F R I E N D S ,
It’s always a welcomed time of year when a chill hits the autumn air and we greet the fall and holiday seasons. Typically a period filled with hustle and bustle as many return to school, our lives recover from the dog days of summer, and we look ahead to time with family and friends during this festive season. In our business, we are fortunate that happy celebrations occur all year round and we have the opportunity to enjoy these moments with our clients, but the holidays definitely evoke a feeling of heightened good cheer.
in our industry for various accomplishments. The term “Triple Zero” represents the highest grade in the AGS Diamond Grading Standards, and it was such an honor to receive this prominent recognition. These treasured distinctions mean so much to both my Siegel family and my Hamilton team as acknowledgment that we are living up to the principles indoctrinated first by my grandfather and then fostered throughout our organization. Family values permeate our business each and every day and it is a quality that brings me great pride and gratification.
Thus far, 2016 has proven to be a memorable year for our company, including some gratifying accolades in areas of our business that are especially important to me and my family. In May, The American Business Awards, also known as The Stevies, recognized Hamilton for our continual commitment to social accountability and business ethics. The Stevies are the nation’s premier business awards program, with more than 10,000 entries each year from organizations of all sizes and in virtually every industry, encompassing over 60 nations. Our firm won the Bronze Award for Corporate Social Responsibility, a category that is truly a testament to one of our company’s core ideals.
We are pleased to present this issue of ACCENT Magazine, with subjects that we hope you will find entertaining and of interest to you. In addition to the latest news and trend updates from the world of fashion and home style, there are a wide variety of articles on topics ranging from the arts and culture to travel. Please enjoy this issue of ACCENT with our compliments. We wish you and yours a wonderful fall and holiday season, and look forward to seeing you soon.
Later, in July, the American Gem Society (AGS) acknowledged members of the jewelry industry at a gala in New York City. I was among those recognized as a recipient of The AGS Triple Zero® Award. Announced during the annual Circle of Distinction Dinner, the jewelry industry’s most prestigious event, The Triple Zero® Award is presented to leaders
Hank B. Siegel, President
The Siegel Family
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BLACK BAY BRONZE BRONZE CASE DIAMETER 43 MM WATERPROOF TO 200 M (660 FT) IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT
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TUDOR, BLACK BAY ®.
#TUDORWATCH TUDORWATCH.COM
T H E
F A L L
2 0 1 6
Fashion Color Report B Y
T E S S
S T A I R I K E R
RIVERSIDE: A strong and deep ocean blue, Riverside is a steely cobalt that leads the various jewel tones in the fall palette. Clear navy undertones mix with dusky stone shades, giving way to a strikingly bold yet dependable color. This rich blue will seamlessly transition your fall wardrobe into the swiftly approaching winter. AIRY BLUE: A light shade that conjures up images of a clear sky, Airy Blue is a nod to a Pantone Color of the Year, Serenity. The color creates a tranquil atmosphere and can be paired with other light colors, such as Dusty Cedar. Smokey gray undertones blend with baby blue to produce a cool icy shade, perfect for a chilly weather look. SHARKSKIN: Soft and muted, the silvery Sharkskin captures the essence of a neutral color. Whether worn alone or paired with a cool ocean tone like Riverside, it adds a touch of contemporary edge to any look. While gray can have the reputation of being drab and austere, this sleek color is anything but. AURORA RED: A night on the town often calls for a little black dress and a slick of scarlet lipstick. This deep crimson does not disappoint, as it lends a sense of warmth and confidence to any look. Pairing the bold Aurora Red with a neutral, such as Warm Taupe, will keep the eye focused and surely get some blood pumping. WARM TAUPE: The quintessential neutral shade, Warm Taupe is a buttery nude that pairs with every other color in the palette. It portrays a sense of calm and stability in a season of change. The coffee colored hue can easily blend brighter colors into your fall wardrobe. DUSTY CEDAR: A nod to the other Pantone Color of the Year, Rose Quartz, this rusty shade of pink is perfect for the cool fall weather. Dusty Cedar is a punched-up rosy gold, the elegant older sister to the pastel pinks of spring. Paired with an edgy color like Sharkskin, this shade exudes warmth and a sense of savoir-faire. LUSH MEADOW: A deep emerald shade, Lush Meadow gives off an air of sophistication and style. This jewel tone is the perfect complement to the darker earth tones that come with fall fashion. Flawlessly elegant on its own, this malachite color will breathe some life into an otherwise somber look. SPICY MUSTARD: Elegance is not the first thing that comes to mind when you hear “mustard,” but this bronzed yellow could change that. A zesty gold, Spicy Mustard is a curious addition to a palette made up of various shades of blue and red. This warm and dark take on gold balances with tawny colors, as anything too bright would be overwhelming. POTTER’S CLAY: The cozy color of freshly fallen autumn leaves is captured in Potter’s Clay. Orange and brown undertones make up this earthy hue, a staple in any fall collection. The vibrant burnt umber color is just as beautiful on the dining room wall as it is on a suede trench coat. BODACIOUS: The perfect mix of splashy and refined, this rich purple is an unexpected color in the fall palette. The vibrant orchid tone mixes with a jaunty pink, creating an electric pastel blend. Bodacious is one of those colors that can make a look become a statement.
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The O riginator of Cult ure d Pe arls.
S i n c e 18 9 3 .
the
RAREFIED REALM of
NATURAL COLOR DIAMONDS
For centuries, natural color diamonds have been regarded as the world’s most sought-after gems, by knowledgable collectors and even royalty. Natural color diamonds have long been treasured for their rarity; coveted by many, but owned by few. These diamonds are truly wonders of the world, as old as the earth itself, yet never have they been more sought after than they are today; their scarcity is at the heart of their desirability. 10
Only one in 10,000 diamonds mined displays enough natural color to be designated a fancy color diamond by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Theirs is a discreet luxury: In the rarefied realm of fancy color diamonds, strength of color is more important than the size of the stone. Natural color diamonds can be 10 to 20 times more valuable than their colorless counterparts, and their popularity as an alternative is growing. However, no one acquires a fancy color diamond for its investment value alone. Their allure lies in their mesmerizing beauty, rarity, mystery and unique provenance. Rare natural color diamonds have increased in value exponentially in the last 10 years, often by double digits year over year. According to leading trade organizations, auction houses and expert diamantaires, rare fancy pink and fancy blue diamonds have led the way, growing by well over 300 percent on average and outperforming most other asset classes in the same period.
COLOR In diamonds, rarity equals value. With diamonds in the normal range, value is based on the absence of color, because colorless diamonds are the rarest. With fancy color diamonds — the ones outside the normal color range — the rarest and most valuable colors are saturated reds, pinks, blues and greens. In all cases, even very slight color differences can have a big impact on value. Compared to fancy yellows and browns, diamonds with a noticeable hint of any other hue are considerably more rare. Even in light tones and weak saturation, as long as they show color in the face-up position, they qualify as fancy colors. Red, green and blue diamonds with medium to dark tones and moderate saturations are extremely rare.
As global financial markets continue to demonstrate volatility and instability, affluent collectors and investors around the world are acquiring natural color diamonds to protect their wealth, and to transfer it from one generation to the next. Meanwhile, as demand rises, the earth’s supply of fancy color diamonds is dwindling: The Cullinan Mine in South Africa is today the only important source of blue diamonds; Australia’s Ellendale Mine, a main source of yellows, has recently ceased production; and Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia, the source of most pink diamonds, is scheduled to close by 2020.
CLARITY With fancy color diamonds, color is the dominant value factor. Even diamonds with numerous inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are prized by connoisseurs if they display attractive face-up color. Of course, inclusions that threaten the gem’s durability can lower a fancy color diamond’s value significantly. Fancy color diamonds can exhibit color graining, which is considered an inclusion. CUT Size and shape are two aspects of cut that can influence diamond color. The larger a diamond is, or the deeper its pavilion, the farther light can travel in it. This can often lead to a richer, more intense color. C A R AT W E I G H T As with diamonds in the normal D-to-Z color range, large fancy color diamonds are rarer and more valuable than small ones.
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Some information courtesy of GIA.
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR found her passion for creative expression in gold and precious gemstones over 30 years ago. St. Clair founded her company in Florence, ,WDO\ EHJLQQLQJ KHU SDUWQHUVKLS ZLWK WKH ZRUOGœV ¿QHVW goldsmiths – the centuries-old Florentine jewelers’ guild.
With her High Jewellery collection, St. Clair celebrates a connoisseur level of gemstones with oneof-a-kind pieces born out of an ongoing quest for the rarest stones in the world – richly patterned Lightening Ridge Australian Black Opal, electric blue Brazilian Paraiba Tourmaline, Classic Colombian Emerald, ¿HU\ $IULFDQ 7VDYRULWH 0DQGDULQ *DUQHW DQG WKH ¿QHVW 5R\DO %OXH 0RRQVWRQH
With an artist’s eye and explorer’s heart, St. Clair fashions rare colored gems with distinctive gold work to illustrate universal narratives of the earth and cosmos. Her Fine Jewellery collection is recognized for iconic rock crystal amulets, signature triple granulation and archer’s granule; all are signature brand elements with a nod to the designer’s classical foundation.
Finally, the Haute Couture work of Temple St. Clair represents artistry at its most collectible. Uncompromising in her choice of materials and execution, St. Clair explores themes that are meaningful to her through a delightful lens of whimsy and discovery. Her critically acclaimed nine-piece collection of Haute Couture, Mythical Creatures from the Golden Menagerie, made its dÊbut at the Louvre Museum in Paris in January )RU WKLV FROOHFWLRQ 6W &ODLU ZDV DZDUGHG WKH *(0 Award for Jewelry Design, the jewelry industry’s most prestigious honor.
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT:
TEMPLE
“I am still learning to be a jewelry designer, but I am a storyteller.�
ST. LAIR
Inspired by symbols of the sun, the Sacred Amulets collection, debuting this fall, features evil eye, scarab and lotus flower motifs believed to protect the wearer.
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S W E E T SE NS AT IONS Pastels pack a stylish punch.
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4 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Hamilton’s Lisette Collection. 18K white gold pendant featuring a pink sapphire surrounded by diamonds. $ 5,695. Hamilton’s Private Reserve Collection. Platinum and 18K yellow gold fancy yellow diamond ring with brilliant diamonds. Price upon request. Hamilton’s Lisette Collection. 18K yellow gold fancy yellow diamond halo earrings. $ 5,995. Hamilton’s Cherie Collection. 18K rose gold pavé pink sapphire and diamond ring. $1,895. Hamilton’s Gemstone Collection. Platinum and 18K yellow gold yellow sapphire, kunzite and diamond drop earrings. $9,950.
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE
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TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.
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ASYMMETRICAL STYLE Innovation comes unbalanced.
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5 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Ponte Vecchio. 18K yellow and white gold Nobile twist multi-row necklace with diamonds. $10,275. Hamilton’s Classics Collection. 18K yellow gold tapered hinged bangle bracelet. $ 6,595. Hamilton’s Classics Collection. 18K yellow gold modern wide crisscross ring. $ 3,825. 18K yellow gold double pearl ring featuring an 11mm gray pearl and an 8mm white pearl. $ 625. Hamilton’s Classics Collection. 18K yellow, white, or rose gold stacking bangles available in pyramid design or diamond row with beading. From $3,895.
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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE
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©2016 CHANEL®, Inc.
STEEL CASE, GUILLOCHÉ DIAL, STEEL 'TWEED' BRACELET
W H AT’S NEW
|
W H AT’S HOT
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W H AT’S NOW
WHAT’S TRENDING AT HAMILTON
T R E N D
# 1
LONG AND LEAN EARRINGS Earrings are making a linear style statement with drops that impress. As shown, from $1,870. 18
®ROBERTOCOIN
POIS MOI COLLECTION
W H AT ’ S
T R E N D
T R E N DI NG
AT
H A M I LTON
# 2
STACKABLE STYLE No rules apply when it comes to stacking jewelry... feel free to mix styles, metals and colors to create your own signature look.
18K gold diamond band rings with modern bead edges, your choice in yellow, white or rose gold, $2,250.
From here to eternity. 18K gold interlocking bands in multiple sizes and colors, from $7,250.
From our Mercer Collection, rings available in various styles of 18K rose, white, or yellow gold, from $1,950.
Diamond cuff bracelets in 18K rose, white, or yellow gold. As shown, from $14,500.
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trends
TheCutting Edgeof
EDGY S
ome seasons, jewelry is front-and-center in fashion, and for fall/winter 2016 that’s surely the case. “Runways from New York to across the Atlantic have shown us that the most current looks are about notice-me accessories. Obviously, that includes high-drama jewels,” says fashion forecaster David Wolfe, creative director at international trend forecasting agency The Doneger Group. There’s a cool, modern edginess to almost everything. In fine jewelry, it’s done imaginatively and differently by each brand. Some designs are asymmetric. Some are formed in mixes of yellow gold, black gold and oxidized silver. And some FOCUS ON BLACK OR GRAY GEMS AS KEY ELEMENTS. Wolfe reminds us that fashion trends today last longer than they used to, and he affirms that black and gray have remained strong since last year. Asymmetry on the catwalks has also been a huge influence. “Look at all the zigzag hemlines and waistlines,” Wolfe urges, identifying them as part of “the new disruptive dressing”—disruptive in a good way, where many of those old “rules” of style are broken.
Non-traditional nuances are new in jewelry. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
KEY EDGY ESSENTIALS Certainly, mismatched earrings are indispensable this season. Earlier this year it was one of the most talked-about jewelry looks on Hollywood’s red carpets. Jewelry blogger Becky Stone, editor in chief and founder of DiamondsInTheLibrary.com, believes fun-to-wear mismatched earrings will become even more popular going forward. It’s a confident look to say the least! “Hoops, too,” she notes, “particularly bigger and atypical ones, with unexpected angles or embellishments.” With 75,000 followers on Instagram alone, Stone has noticed that, as more designers are doing asymmetrical, people are embracing it. “With bracelets, for example, I think you’re going to see a lot more non-traditional sculptural forms by the end of the year.” Time to talk about layering. It’s been trending for several seasons and you’re sure to see it continue. “However, some jewelry tailoring is starting, which means bigger, MORE STATEMENT PIECES and not as much stacking,” says jewelry writer and blogger Cathleen McCarthy, founder and editor of TheJewelryLoupe.com. Fashion for holiday and into next year is perfect for accessorizing with larger jewelry, agrees Wolfe, noting, “With the new erogenous zone being the shoulder (given all the off-the-shoulder clothes that allow for one or both to be bare) the time is now for big necklaces and earrings—notice-me jewelry!”
HOW TO WALK ON JEWELRY’S DARK SIDE Top: Roberto Coin Bottom: Stephen Webster
Some of the most innovative and exciting edgy designs are in blackened metals. “Yellow gold beautifully continues to trend,” confirms Stone, “but
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there’s a lot more blackened metal as well.” Notably, distinctive, unconventional designs in blackened gold [aka rhodium-plated white gold] and oxidized sterling silver. McCarthy adds, “Dark titanium, too. Rose gold is also still on-trend, and I especially like the way certain luxury jewelry brands are MIXING GOLD WITH BLACK GOLD or oxidized silver.” There are many rich yellow gold pendants, for instance, on dark metal chains of all types, including links. “A great way to create edgy style this year,” McCarthy advises, “is to layer some blackened jewelry with your yellow or rose gold.” So, for example, if you’re stacking three, four or five bangles, even one dark-hued bracelet added in the middle will instantly give your overall jewelry look that trending avant-garde feeling.” Another good suggestion on how to get started accessorizing with edgy contemporary jewelry? Buy one great graphic piece: perhaps a theatrical two-finger ring, upward-trailing ear climbers, or A STRONG CHOKER/COLLAR, EITHER OPEN-ENDED OR CLOSED, as both are hot in fashion.
A FEW FRINGE GEMS (& COLORS) AT THE FOREFRONT Do not—I repeat: do not!—forget to buy some new jewelry with black or gray gemstones. Black diamonds, fancy black sapphires and black spinel are especially important. Both McCarthy and Stone like the way more and more artisanal collections are now featuring these untraditional gems. Stone suggests that, for fall/winter, when searching for an original piece of colored stone jewelry to add to your wardrobe, be sure to look beyond the “Big Three”: ruby, blue sapphire and emerald. “I’ve actually seen an uptick in interest in yellow sapphires, so you should definitely ask your jeweler about them,” says Stone. This isn’t a gem that’s typically in the edgy stone category but, as she reminds us, “Yellow sapphire is such a joyful gem—so vibrant and vivacious.” Right now and into 2017, the whole spectrum of fancy sapphires is in fashion—as are all the many shades of spinel. “Some spectacular spinel jewelry was premiered this year, and it’s refreshing,” notes Stone, “because, unfortunately, spinel tends to go under-appreciated.” Just recently, the jewelry industry named spinel as an additional birthstone for those born in August. Ask your jeweler to show you some modern spinel jewelry in its many different colors, from fiery reds and oranges to dark and edgy black beauties, from pastel lavenders to blues and greens. Speaking of blues and greens, McCarthy says, “There are so many shimmery ones for fall/winter—opal, moonstone and blue-toned labradorite, especially—and triplets, too, which are designed to create their own watery light show. Frequently with triplets, A BOTTOM LAYER OF MOTHER OF PEARL LENDS GLIMMER TO SLICE OF COLOR, EMERALD FOR EXAMPLE, all viewed through a transparent rock crystal prism.” Another gem that was, for a long time, somewhat off the grid in modern affordable jewelry is the Tahitian pearl. Well, it’s back—big-time—in its natural kaleidoscopic hues of black, gray, eggplant and dark green/blue. “Pearls, especially Tahitians, are everywhere this season,” McCarthy tells us, “big and small, and sometimes creatively carved, too.” As you think forward to your jewelry wardrobe for spring/summer, it will be more important than ever to own a few pieces of gray gemstone jewelry. So it’s definitely not too soon to start talking with your jeweler about your everyday style and start looking for a piece that’s fashioned with on-trend grays like Tahitian pearls, or slate-shaded labradorite, hematite, moonstone or mother of pearl.
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Buy one great graphic piece: perhaps a theatrical two-finger ring, upward-trailing ear climbers, or a strong choker/collar, either open-ended or closed, as both are hot in fashion.
Top: Armenta Center: Penny Preville Bottom: Stephen Webster
The superlative-charged chronograph. 50 mm case in Breitlight®. Exclusive Manufacture Breitling Caliber B12 with 24-hour military-style display. Officially chronometer-certified.
Rihanna wore Mikimoto at her RiRi fragrance launch.
Alice Eve wore Armenta to attend the Men in Black 3 New York premiere. Florence Welch wore Gucci during an interview.
As Seen On... Our favorite stars share a love for our favorite brands! BY JILLIAN L ROCHELLE 1 A
Celine Dion wore Harry Kotlar at a live performance.
Jennifer Lopez wore Stephen Webster on the American Idol set.
Olivia Wilde wore John Hardy to the NBA All-Star Game. Robin Roberts wore David Yurman at The Academy Awards.
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launches
RETURN OF THE
BLACK BAY
TUDOR’s new Black Bay
timepieces have collectors clamoring.
S
ince its launch in 2012 (with a red bezel), TUDOR’s Black Bay model has become a watch that conjures some serious street cred amongst watch collectors and enthusiasts given its strong nod to the historical watch references of TUDOR’s rich past. The essence of the Black Bay dates back to the 1954 TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner, reference 7922. This was the technical dive watch that spawned future iterations, which became the preferred tool watch of the Marine Nationale and the U.S. Navy beginning in the ’60s. Throughout this time, TUDOR Submariners evolved, showcasing new and subtle design details with each model update. Ultimately, the culmination of these refinements directly inspired the 2012 Black Bay model as it exists today. So much so that the Black Bay took home the coveted Revival Prize at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (often dubbed The Oscars of watchmaking). As of 2015, the Black Bay model was offered with a red, blue, or black bezel. In 2016, all colorways in the Black Bay line were fitted with new in-house manufacture movement MT5602, boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. There is no doubt as to why collectors are clamoring for these iconic, highly recognizable and historically important timepieces. The expansion of the Black Bay family in 2016 doesn’t end there; three entirely new models were introduced as well: Black Bay Bronze, Black Bay Dark and Black Bay 36. The Black Bay Bronze is TUDOR’s first-ever high-performance dive watch with bronze aluminum alloy case. The alloy was designed to patina over time, producing a variation of complementing warm tones. With its 43mm case, the Black Bay Bronze is now the largest case size available in the popular Heritage collection, housing TUDOR manufacture movement MT5601. The Black Bay Dark offers a fresh take on the stealth-like black aesthetic. With an all-over black PVD-treated steel case and bracelet, The Heritage Black Bay Dark has an entirely satin finish, reminiscent of military utility equipment. Like the Black Bay Red, Blue and Black, it features TUDOR movement MT5602. And, like every Black Bay and timepiece in the Heritage collection, this model comes with an additional fabric strap with purchase.
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CLINT J.
STEFAN M.
THERE’S A FUNNY THING THAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU BUILD FACTORIES IN THIS COUNTRY. IT’S CALLED JOBS.
VALISA M.
ALEX S.
AVAIL ABLE E XCLUSIVELY AT FINE WATCH & JEWELRY RETAILERS
Hamilton Happenings
2016 NAPLES ART, ANTIQUE & JEWELRY SHOW Hamilton brings high jewelry to Florida’s Paradise Coast. Hamilton had the opportunity to host an inaugural exhibition at the Naples Art, Antique & Jewelry Show on February 19th through 23rd, 2016. Held at the Naples Exhibition Center, this spectacular show featured stunning collections of internationally acclaimed exhibitors. The highly anticipated show has become one of the most important events of the 2ETPIW WSGMEP WIEWSR EXXVEGXMRK RSXEFPI KYIWXW VIWTIGXIH HIEPIVW ERH WSQI SJ XLI QSWX ORS[PIHKIEFPI ÁRI EVX ERXMUYI and jewelry collectors in the world. 30
uests of the show were able to view Hamilton’s most beautiful and coveted treasures from over 100 years of superior craftsmanship and design. “We were excited to present our High Jewelry Collection in Naples,” says Hank Siegel, president and CEO of Hamilton Jewelers. “This was a wonderful opportunity to extend our exposure from our thriving Palm Beach market to Florida’s Paradise Coast. Many of our national clients visit Naples during this peak season and our team enjoyed meeting so many old and new friends.” With a selection of important jewelry that included fancy color diamonds, exceptional gemstones and pearls, and of course, diamonds in abundance, Hamilton made a tremendous presentation at the Naples Show. “We really wanted to pull out all the stops XS WLS[GEWI SYV ÁRIWX GSPPIGXMSRW including many items never-before displayed in the United States,” says 7MIKIP µ;LMPI XLIWI WMKRMÁGERX TMIGes have been appreciated at private exhibitions internationally, we were pleased to offer the Naples guests a chance to enjoy them as well.”
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THE A MER IC A N GEM SOCIET Y CIRCLE OF DISTINCTION DIN NER n Tuesday, July 26, 2016, the American Gem Society (AGS) honored three esteemed leaders in the jewelry industry at a gala in New York City. Hamilton’s president and CEO, Hank Siegel, was among those recognized as a recipient of The AGS Triple Zero® Award. Announced during the 16th annual Circle of Distinction Dinner, the jewelry industry’s most prestigious event, The Triple Zero® Award is synonymous with excellence, and is presented to leaders in the jewelry industry for their countless accomplishments and contributions to the industry and their communities. The term “Triple Zero” represents the highest grade in the AGS Diamond Grading Standards, thus recognizes outstanding leaders in the jewelry industry. In his acceptance, Hank stated, “It is such an honor to receive this important recognition in our industry. Our ÁVQ WXVMZIW JSV PIEHIVWLMT MR IZIV] EVIE SJ SYV FYWMRIWW and it is extremely gratifying to receive such a prominent acknowledgement. I am grateful for the award and thank AGS for granting me the opportunity to be part of this prestigious commemoration.” Hank joined Hamilton as the third generation of the Siegel family in 1982 and was appointed as president and CEO in 1993. He is a graduate of Emory University, where he received his BBA; Boston University Graduate School of Management, where he received his MBA; and GIA’s Graduate Gemologist in Residence Program. In 1986, he FIGEQI E 'IVXMÁIH +IQSPSKMWX %TTVEMWIV JVSQ XLI %QIVMGER Gem Society.
In 2005, Hank completed serving a two-year term as president of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. In 2008 he was elected a governor of Gemological Institute of America. He has also served on the boards of many organizations in the gem and jewelry industry. He is a member of the New Jersey and Palm Beach Chapters of the Young President’s Organization. He resides in Princeton with his wife Lisette, and has two sons, Andrew and Benjamin. The American Gem Society is the country’s preeminent jewelry trade organization dedicated to consumIV TVSXIGXMSR 7MRGI XLI RSRTVSÁX SVKERM^EXMSR LEW WXSSH EW E GSVRIVWXSRI SJ XLI ÁRI NI[IPV] MRHYWXV] LSPHMRK member jewelers to the highest of standards and business ethics.
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Above: The Siegel Family, left to right, Andrew, Hank, Lisette and Benjamin. Below: Hank accepting his award.
BR I DA L E V E N T 2 016 Love truly was in the air at Hamilton MR 4VMRGIXSR HYVMRK XLI ÁVWX ERRYEP Bridal Event, a special showcase for soon-to-be-engaged couples as well as already engaged guests looking for their perfect wedding rings. Dozens of happy pairs visited during the event to enjoy a tremendous selection of bridal rings and jewelry. A honeymoon cruise gift and great savings were among the enticements to buy during the weekend event. Working with bridal experts at The Knot, Hamilton offered couples an unprecedented showcase of stunning engagement rings, wedding bands and bridal jewelry. Many lucky couples enjoyed the gift of a cruise travel package on Norwegian Cruise Lines, and everyone enjoyed sweet treats and whitethemed fare.
P R I N C E TO N WATCH FA I R 2 0 1 6 It was the 18th Annual Watch Fair at Hamilton, and the Princeton event was a rare treat for everyone, from the amateur watch enthusiast to the most seasoned collector. ,YRHVIHW SJ [EXGLIW JVSQ XLI [SVPH¸W ÁRIWX FVERHW including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, TUDOR, Breitling, Panerai, Chanel and Baume & Mercier were on display to greet visitors. Coinciding with Princeton University’s Alumni Weekend, the event is a crowd pleaser that draws guests from all over the world. Many thousands of alumni gathered in the downtown Princeton area, and many of them wait for the Hamilton event every year. Held during Memorial Day Weekend this year, the town had dozens of special events and Princeton Tiger-themed gatherings to enjoy.
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timepieces
WATCH OUT! Why buying and servicing your timepieces with an authorized dealer is more important than ever. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
I
t’s not hard to avoid obvious knockoffs when it comes to luxury watches. Just be careful you’re not ambushed by a Frankenstein. “Frankenstein” is a new watch industry term rapidly spreading among consumers, who are right to be leery. The term refers to watches that have been spliced together from some parts that are genuine and some that are counterfeit. Typically made in Asia, they can easily fool the eye—especially of a buyer blinded by the prospect of getting a great deal. The emergence of Frankenstein watches underscores the importance of buying a fine timepiece from an authorized dealer. “Buying a watch online is like gambling,” says Michael Pollak of Hyde Park Jewelers. “Sometimes you win, but mostly you lose.” And when you lose, you lose big, because these fakes often mimic very expensive models. A consumer spotted an $80,000 Audemars Piguet timepiece priced at a mere $40,000, Pollak recalls. But when the buyer sent it to the manufacturer for servicing, it never came back. In its place was a letter explaining that the watch was not genuine and had been confiscated for infringing on the brand’s trademark. The buyer has no recourse, and even a seller with 100% positive feedback could claim he didn’t know the watch was a Frankenstein. For Pollak, this all comes down to the perennial problem of not knowing a watch’s provenance when buying from an unauthorized dealer. The same thing applies for watches that are stolen. The seller may not even know it, he explains, but once again, as soon as the watch is taken in for servicing, a company such as Rolex will immediately check the serial number against a database of stolen watches. If it comes up as stolen, you’ll never see it again. “According to Rolex, the watch either
belongs to the previous owner, an authorized dealer or the insurance company,” says Pollak. Either way, “It does not belong to you.” Authorized retailers provide a clear paper trail of a watch’s history, can ensure that a watch comes with a manufacturer’s warranty and that parts are available should it need repair, and provide a trustworthy resource if the customer is dissatisfied for any reason. You’re also dealing with someone who’s intimately familiar with the brand. “You have the ability to speak with someone who has received the proper training on the brand you are considering,” says Hank B. Siegel, CEO of Hamilton Jewelers. Siegel says our service center sees thousands of watches each year, and the main issues are attractive fakes, genuine cases with fake movements, watches that were originally genuine but have been altered with non-genuine parts, genuine watches with fake warranty papers, watches reported stolen, and finally, watches that are genuine but without proper import documentation and duties paid, which leaves them subject to confiscation. “The bottom line is, unless you are buying from a retailer explicitly authorized by the watch brand, it’s buyer beware,” says Marc Green of Lux Bond & Green. “Whether from an auction house, website, non-authorized dealer, or anywhere else, there is always the looming question of whether something is genuine.” Authorized dealers are also imperative when having a watch serviced, as an unauthorized repairman could use counterfeit parts and turn your genuine, papers-and-all watch into a Frankenstein without your knowing it. “Some say authorized service centers are too expensive and take too long,” says Green. “We say you get what you pay for. You may take your Mercedes to the corner garage for a minor adjustment, but not when major parts are needed. With watches, you want them serviced correctly with a guarantee.”
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True luxury timepieces, like the Patek Philippe Ref. 5170R shown here, can only be purchased from and serviced by authorized retailers.
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speed
THE CZAR
RACING
OF HISTORIC In conversation with ROLEX ambassador Murray Smith. BY DAVID A. ROSE
A
s a historic race car driver, Murray Smith has raced cars of his own as well as significant historic cars for their owners at iconic race circuits around the world. His membership in some of the sport’s most elite driver’s clubs has connected him with racing royalty. Rolex has entrusted Smith as consultant to its prestigious racing events: the Rolex 24 at Daytona, the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion and other highly respected races. And as chairman of the Lime Rock Park Historic Festival, he has taken a very popular regional event and elevated it to a world-class weekend. His interest in the sport began at a young age and in a quite unexpected way. “My father died when I was nine years old,” Smith begins. “He was a very good golfer and often played with a Thai prince who was a racing driver in the 1930s. When he died, I wrote an article for my school’s magazine about my father and the prince. The headmaster called me into his study one day and said, ‘Smith, one of our school directors, Mr. Wilkinson, has read your article and would like you to join him and some of his friends at a race at Silverstone.’ He told me I should stand outside the school gate that Saturday and they would pick me up. That day I waited as instructed and along they came in a 20/25 Rolls Royce Woody. At Silverstone we sat on the outside of Abbey Curve, and the first car that went by was David Murray in a 4CLT Maserati; I was very impressed because it made such a great row. And that was the beginning of my fascination with motor racing. “My mother lived in England near the Frazer Nash factory in Isleworth,”
Smith continues. “This was where the cars were built and from there they went all over Europe to race in places like the Mille Miglia and Targa Florio. I used to hang about and look at the cars through the window. One day a man came outside wearing a white shop coat and said to me, ‘I see you out here every day. Why don’t you come inside and have a look around?’ So I said thank you and went inside. He came back over to me a little later and told me that he had spoken to the owners of the company about me. They agreed it was okay for me to ‘come around any time, but don’t talk to any of the workers. If you have any questions come and find me.’ It turns out this man was Nelson Ledger, who had been Archie Frazer-Nash’s race car mechanic in the late 1920s and ’30s.” Over the years Smith became the quintessential historic race car driver, car collector and overall enthusiast. His Rolodex became a who’s who of motorsports greats. “One day I was contacted by a Rolex executive who asked me if I would do an interview at the Rolex 24 at Daytona,” he says. “I did it and apparently they liked it, because I’ve been doing it ever since. Working for Rolex on these events has been a pleasure and an honor. “Then the Louis Vuitton company contacted me to do a signature auto event in the USA. I told them I would do an event for them, as long as it was not at a golf club or in a field somewhere. I would put together great cars and show them on a street in Manhattan. For five years we ran an amazing car event in the middle of Manhattan at Rockefeller Center. At one point we had Formula 1 cars running down Fifth Avenue. That event was one of my favorite achievements.”
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One-of-a-kind handcrafted enamel black and white stripe cuff bracelet with 22k gold leaf. shop online at hamiltonjewelers.com
timepieces
Desperately Seeking
DAYTONA What one young business exec wouldn’t do for the newest ROLEX… BY JARROD WEBER
M
y first recollection of a Rolex Daytona was this beautiful stainless steel work of art on my father’s wrist. Although I was too tied up with school, sports and dating to truly focus on watches, I couldn’t help but admire the pure beauty of this magnificent timepiece. Never since have I seen a watch I admired as much. So of course I felt tremendous joy when, upon graduating law school, my parents placed two green boxes with gold crown logos on our kitchen table. “Mom and I are so
proud of you,” my dad said, somewhat choked up. “We think you’ve earned your first Rolex.” He then opened both boxes: in the first was a brand new Rolex Daytona, the other contained the Daytona I’d always admired on his wrist. He asked which I wanted. I immediately chose my father’s for its sentimental value. I can’t think of any possession I’ve ever had or will ever have that means more to me than that Daytona. I’m sure that at the right time, my son will acquire this priceless family keepsake. But for right now, I want, I need, I crave, I simply must have the new Rolex Daytona with black dial and ceramic bezel. Ever since the extreme buzz surrounding its release at the Baselworld Watch Fair in March, I’ve been relentless in trying to figure out how to acquire this elusive prize. Most say there’s a five-year wait list... I can’t wait five weeks, let alone five years! The Daytona was the Rolex model first given out to winners at the Rolex 24 at Daytona Speedway. At some point in time, Paul Newman (himself a motorsports enthusiast and race car driver) started wearing it, and from then on, watch aficionados, collectors and guys in the know wanted nothing else. Since its launch in the 1960s, the watch has gone through a number of redesigns, all of which are now collector’s items that have appreciated significantly in value. The modern Daytona as we know it was released in the late 1980s; at that time, Rolex outsourced the movement to Zenith. In 2000, Rolex developed the capability to make the chronograph movement in house. They also made small cosmetic changes to the face of the watch (on the black dial, the sub-dials became silver rather than white; on the white dial, the sub-dials were also silver rather than black). For either dial option, purchasing a Rolex Daytona has become a dance of persuasion, persistence and finesse, convincing dealers to sell you one out of the maybe two or three watches they’ve been allotted. The release this year of the new stainless steel Daytona is the first significant design change since the ’80s. The bezel is now made of Cerachrom material that’s virtually scratch-resistant to ensure longevity. The sub-dials on the white dial are now black rather than silver, offering a bold contrast recalling Paul Newman’s iconic timepiece of yesteryear. Everyone wants one. All are told to put their names on the list. It’s an undisclosed list with obscure criteria: Are you famous? Are you quasi-
38
famous? Will you be photographed in the watch? With whom? People are determined to figure this out. I’ve been on the hunt, calling dealers throughout the Tri-State area as well as across the country. Since Rolex authorized dealers are not permitted to ship out of state, a buyer needs to purchase in person. I’ve researched the home state of my alma mater (Michigan) discovering cities I didn’t know existed (to which I’ll be traveling if they call me!). My wife is Romanian and fluent in the language;
she’s phoned her home country and I believe I’m top of the list in Bucharest. Yesterday, my father and I attended a Rolex Daytona event. We tried on the watch and I’m more committed than ever to finding it. I’m on their wait list, but they were not all that encouraging. Leaving the event, I texted my wife: “Isn’t it time you visit your family in Romania?” (Editor’s note: Jarrod wrote this essay hoping it would move him up on the list. Sorry Jarrod, but you’ll have to wait in line with the rest of us!)
“
The Daytona was the Rolex model first given out to winners at the Rolex 24 at Daytona Speedway. At some point in time, Paul Newman started wearing it, and from then on, watch aficionados, collectors and guys in the know wanted nothing else.
’’
Left to right: Cosmograph Daytona in Yellow Rolesor, Cosmograph Daytona in 18K Everrose Gold with Leather Strap, Cosmograph Daytona in 18K Yellow Gold
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timepieces
John Travolta wore Breitling at a boutique opening.
Dan Stevens wore Baume & Mercier at British GQ’s Men of the Year Awards.
Chris Pratt wore Panerai at the Golden Globe Awards.
CelebrityWATCH A timely look at men’s style. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
Patrick Dempsey wore TAG Heuer at the Monaco Grand Prix. Eddie Redmayne wore Omega at the opening night party for the 2016 Rio Olympics.
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spotlight
IN THE
ROUGH
FOREVERMARK’s focus on helping women in need and strengthening mining communities. BY JULIANNE PEPITONE
W
hen famed National Geographic photographer Annie Griffiths visited a South African diamond mine for the first time in 1981, she was surrounded by burly male guards who kept eyes on her as they strained to hear the radio report of Princess Diana’s wedding to Prince Charles. But when she visited again in July 2015 to chronicle women’s advancement programs, she found herself instead greeted by proud female entrepreneurs and mining workers. The women were part of De Beers’ Forevermark programs that support career training and development for women in the communities where it mines. It’s part of a larger sustainability focus aimed at “building forever”—that is, building up communities to be socioeconomically strong even after the local mines are eventually tapped. “We tend to think of diamonds as something frivolous or symbolic,” admits Griffiths. “I’ve been working in Southern Africa for years and it never occurred to me until I saw it that the diamond business could be a real force for good in the local community.” She met scores of women including Sophia Mphuthi, an entrepreneur who started her own driving school in Kimberley, South Africa, using money from De Beers’ Zimele fund. De Beers says the fund benefited over 62 South African businesses in 2014, creating over 1,175 jobs in farming, jewelry design and other areas. More than one-third of the people who benefited directly from that funding were women. Overall De Beers has spent about $28 million on socioeconomic development programs, according to Nicky Black, the company’s head of social performance. Nearly 50,000 people have benefited as a result of the programs, which focus on education, entrepreneurship, health care and
other core concerns. Through the initiative, Forevermark has trained women for careers as miners, geologists, engineers, craftspeople, managers and more. “For the consumer, [forever] connotes these intense eternal emotions,” explains Black. “But for the community, it means sustainable development. Where will we be in 20 years?” De Beers is acutely aware that mining communities are dependent on a finite resource, and investing in women and girls ensures a possibilityfilled future. “The science shows that women play a remarkable role as connectors and foundation stones of their communities,” Black says. “When you support a woman you are in turn supporting her family, the community and society.” It makes business sense, too, Black insists, citing studies that show “if you spend a dollar on a woman’s development you get more bang for your buck than almost any other intervention, including inoculation and sewage. The actual outcome is greatest, and that’s what ‘forever’ means to us.” The efforts in South Africa mirror De Beers’ larger focus on building up its female workforce across the world. Women comprise nearly 24 percent of global employees, compared to 16 percent in the mining industry as a whole. “We’re outperforming the industry and we’re pleased by that, but I think everyone would say that’s still not enough,” Black says. “We’re working to change it.”
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CLIENT PRESENTATION GIFTS TOURNAMENTS & GOLF TROPHIES MILESTONE & RETIREMENT GIFTS SALES RECOGNITION AWARDS EMPLOYEE ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS SERVICE AWARD PROGRAMS For assistance or more information, please contact Donna Latham at 609.524.6497, or email dlatham@hamiltonjewelers.com
Know Your Diamond CARAT WEIGHT
COLOR GRADE
CLARITY GRADE
CUT GRADE
Look for diamonds graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs. Learn more at 4Cs.GIA.edu
CARLSBAD
ANTWERP
BANGKOK
DUBAI
GABORONE
HONG KONG
JOHANNESBURG
LONDON
MUMBAI
NEW YORK
RAMAT GAN
SEOUL
TAIPEI
TOKYO
BRIDAL
SHUTTERSTOCK
A SPECIAL WEDDING SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE
bridal
Propose with one of these trending styles and post the good news!
#SHESAIDYES BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
A FEW FAVORITE CUTS Perhaps celebrity engagements (Blake Lively, Julianne Hough) have played a role in its popularity, for never in recent times has the oval been so in demand. “This fancy diamond cut is one way a bride can have something out of the ordinary,” says Guttery, “and depending on how the stone is cut it can really elongate the finger and look very graceful on your hand.” Nonetheless, according to The Knot’s study, 49% of modern brides still prefer the traditional round, while princess cuts come in as second most popular.
GEM AND METAL COLORS TO LOVE If you do decide on a classic round center diamond, another way to differentiate is by choosing a stone other than a white diamond. “Colored
gems are in vogue for bridal,” says Guttery, “especially ruby, emerald and all shades of sapphire.” He mentions aquamarine, too. Light blue gems and pink stones have notably become more sought-after in bridal since the Pantone Color Institute named Serenity (a pastel blue) and Rose Quartz (a light pink) as the 2016 Colors of the Year. A pink gemstone set in rose gold is a beautiful, feminine, tone-on-tone look. Just the same, says Baillie, “Our latest research shows that 68% of brides still want 18K or 14K white gold for their wedding rings.” That said, more and more, as women look for artisanal flair, they’re buying yellow gold, reports Guttery. “Specifically, rich and buttery 18-karat. The glow it gives off is radiating, and the textures and patterns in yellow gold look great.”
DESIGN ’N DETAIL Whether in the precious-metal surface of your wedding ring, the prongs and bezels holding the gems, or the overall aesthetic, today’s bride is looking for detail, Guttery emphasizes. “Even if a ring itself is simple, the head may have scrollwork, a shank might have an unusual pattern of pavé diamonds and cutouts, or the focus gem may be held by artistic prongs. Also, a lot of today’s designers are re-interpreting elements from past eras—Edwardian or Deco, for example—and incorporating them into their signature bridal styles. Something I’m definitely noticing is more ornate scrollwork.” One last thing: Before you begin your search for that once-in-a-lifetime ring, be sure to ask your jeweler about two-stone designs, including bypass styles. It’s a retro silhouette that’s made its way into modern bridal—and lots of (soon-to-be) engaged women are falling in love with it.
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IMAGES COURTESY OF HARRY KOTLAR, RAHAMINOV, PENNY PREVILLE
W
hite, yellow, or rose gold? Round, square, or cushion cut? Classic, modern, or vintage style? When deciding on an engagement ring and wedding band, the choices may seem overwhelming. “We found that one bride-to-be went online and actually looked at 3,800 engagement rings in one day,” chuckles Bernadette Baillie, director of education for TheKnot.com. “That’s huge dedication!” Baillie recalls the story while discussing the results of her popular wedding site’s 2016 Luxury Bridal Jewelry & Engagement Ring Study, for which The Knot surveyed 13,000 Millennial couples. To help get your own research underway, we also spoke with jewelry expert Benjamin G. Guttery about what’s trending in wedding ring designs, diamond cuts and colors, precious metals and more. Guttery, a GIA graduate/jewelry trend forecaster/brand advocate, is also founder of the blog Third Coast Gems.
A DIAMOND AS RARE AS YOU
bridal
Out of THE BOX
Personalize your special day by throwing away the rule book. BY JULIANNE PEPITONE
THE PARTY DOESN’T STOP HERE
ALTERNATIVE TREATS TAKE THE CAKE Artfully arranged cupcake towers became the trendiest way to ditch the wedding cake a few years ago, but now all kinds of alternatives exist—many of which don’t include cake at all. Donut towers: Like a Little Black Dress, this cake alternative can be dressed up or down: stacks of apple cider donuts with milk for a cozy-casual fall wedding, or carefully constructed towers of ganache-iced confections alongside espresso at more elegant affairs. Donut towers can look more traditional, too: Philadelphia-based Federal Donuts constructs displays of its treats on a tiered stand and adds decorative elements like flowers and ribbons, if desired. Ice cream: Think DIY sundae bars packed with toppings like decadent fudge and buttery toffee bits. Or build-it-yourself ice cream sandwich tables with loads of flavor options and gooey cookies to mix and match. For a pricier but super-fun treat, hire a good old ice cream truck to roll up as the celebration winds down. Tipsy Cones is a grown-up version of the Mr. Softee truck, offering alcoholic flavors like whiskey mash, drunken French toast and watermelon mojito ice. Throwback treats: Yes, weddings are about joining together as adults, but dessert inspires pure childlike joy. Los Angeles’ Cake Monkey specializes in gourmet versions of childhood faves like Ho Hos, Oreos and Little Debbies, whipped up with high-quality ingredients like bittersweet chocolate and fleur de sel.
The wedding was perfect, the reception was a blast… and now, the DJ is packing up as the venue staff turns on all the lights. It’s a bummer when the party comes to a close, but the fun doesn’t have to stop there. Planned wedding after-parties are on the rise, but informal post-nuptial hangouts are an easy way to keep the revelry going past midnight. A simple option: Rent space at a bar that’s within walking distance of the reception venue. Beach brides and grooms might invite guests to a post-bash bonfire, while winter couples can host a cozy s’moresroasting session with spiked coffee. Massachusetts teacher Jessica Dougherty and her husband Kerry opted to plan a post-wedding bowling session, complete with custom “Team Jerry” shirts, for their special day. They chose Point Lookout Resort in Maine specifically because the complex offered loads of fun options on the grounds, and they wanted to help create a full weekend getaway for their guests. “It was so funny to see the pairings—my high school friend’s husband bowling with Kerry’s friend from Italy,” Dougherty said. “But the real point was to have some downtime with the people who mean the most to us. I know it sounds a little corny, but we wanted the love, the moment, to last as long as possible.”
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ANYTHING GOES Rigid wedding-party rules once required matchymatchy dresses and an equal number of ’maids and ’men. But selecting the party is meant to honor the people in your life, regardless of gender, age or any centuries-old guidelines. Now, anything goes: a “bridesman,” “best woman,” or “man of honor,” and the 89-year-old who served as a bridesmaid in her granddaughter’s Pennsylvania wedding last year. Burberry employee Katelyn Venezia, 30, opted to forgo the traditional wedding party altogether for her July 2016 nuptials—but she still honored her closest friends, sans fuss. “I didn’t want them to feel pressure or strings attached,” Venezia explains. “I felt the practice of getting everyone together to try on dresses and then having them spend hundreds on something they won’t wear again was outdated.” So she wrote 10 girlfriends letters thanking them for their friendship and explaining her plan: she wanted the group to get ready together the morning of the wedding, but there would be no formal procession down the aisle and no matching gowns. The cards included an inspiration board, and Venezia invited each woman to choose her own dress for the wedding in one of those colors. “I wanted to let the girls know they are so special to me,” she says. “That’s what’s important— the friendships, not the bridesmaid dress.”
™ are Trade Marks of The De Beers Group of Companies. ® and © Forevermark 2016. Forevermark ®,
It’s a long journey to become the one. In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection. This is why less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark inscription – our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.
bridal
natural
Wedding hair is having a boho moment. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
WONDERS TOP TRENDS When asked what today’s brides are requesting most, hairstylist Emily Carcaramo of Once Upon a Bride doesn’t hesitate. “Natural, natural, natural!” she replies. Carcaramo, who also styles celebrities for editorial and television appearances, always encourages brides to consider textured updos or half-up styles for longevity purposes. “But for those brides set on wearing their hair down, go for natural-looking waves. And no matter how thick your hair is, I suggest adding extensions so the volume translates for your photos and doesn’t fall flat halfway through the festivities.” Angelo David, who styles hair on-location for celebs like Coco Rocha and Christie Brinkley as well as in his eponymous NYC salon, couldn’t agree more. “Many women wish they had thicker hair, and on their wedding of all days, they should feel like the best version of themselves. We can match Couture Extensions to your hair so you look like yourself, only better, and your style will hold up all day.”
While messy, piecey hair can look great in photos, brides getting married outdoors should avoid having too many loose strands. (Same goes for brides who have outdoor photo sessions scheduled before or after the ceremony.) You never know when a gust of wind might come along and turn your style from boho to bedhead.
In! Natural Texture Out: Pageant-Perfect Ringlets In! Over-Ear Embellishments
Out: Princess Tiaras
In! Budding Blooms Out: Birdcage Veils 50
LEAVE IT TO THE PROS Though “undone” hairstyles may look effortless, they’re often anything but. Many actually comprise several intricate steps and are best left to a trained professional. Even if you consider yourself a whiz with the hot tools, this is one time you should call for backup. Kate Middleton famously did her own makeup for her April 2011 wedding to Prince William, but she knew enough to trust the pros with her tresses on that allimportant day.
TOP IMAGE COURTESY OF CLAIRE PETTIBONE, INSET IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID’S BRIDAL
LOCATION, LOCATION
amenities
Jet-set
PETS
Have furry friends, will travel. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
E
xtra socks, check. Phone charger, check. Pomeranian, check. That’s right: millions of Americans these days are choosing to bring their beloved animal companion with them when traveling, whether for vacation or a special family occasion. But depending on where you’re going (and how long you’re going for), it’s not always as easy as making sure you’ve packed your cosmetic case.
Kimpton Hotels, considered by many to be the most petaccommodating of hotel groups, will also provide water bowls, treats, pet beds, toys and pooperscooper bags. Some of their hotels go one step further, including an outdoor “Doggie Happy Hour,” where owners can sip and savor offerings from the hotel’s restaurant while pets are treated to their own delights. (Kimpton also happily houses cats, birds, and other pets of most any sort.) Meanwhile, at the Four Seasons Beverly Hills, the pet bowls are specially filled with Evian water. Many members of the Ritz-Carlton and Marriott family of hotels also do their utmost to accommodate canine companions. (That said, all hotels do not let pets into their restaurants or any area serving food, and leashes must be used in indoor public areas.) Some boutique hotels are going one step further. The Enchante Boutique Hotel in Los Altos, California not only provides some pet-friendly rooms with patios, but also offers all pets a welcome package including organic biscuits, and sells chef-made organic pet treats and other wonderful items in its gift shop. (The hotel also has agreements with a nearby dog behaviorist and a professional pet photographer.) Unsurprisingly, the Cypress Inn in Carmel, California—co-owned by actress and animal activist Doris Day—has a special area where you can wash off your pet after a walk on the nearby beach, and offers cozy petblankets for in-room use, among other amenities. So for those humans who consider their pets part of the family, there’s no reason not to include your beloved animal companion in the family fun of traveling.
GETTING THERE Experienced pet owners say if your destination is within driving distance (and Spot can fit in the backseat), traveling by car can often be simpler than flying. Just make sure you stop every four hours or so to let the dog walk and do his/her business, and never leave the pet in a car alone. If you must fly, don’t plan the trip last minute. Be aware that every airline has different policies—although few allow dogs larger than 20 pounds in the cabin. (Do you really want your pet in cargo?) Fees vary wildly. So do each airline’s rules as to how many pets are allowed on each individual flight, so booking as early as possible is advised. And get to the airport well in advance, as you may need extra time at security or before boarding to ensure your companion’s comfort and safety.
BEING THERE Tip number one: Standard policy at any hotel is that the pet cannot be in the room without his human companion. Fortunately, many chains will arrange for pet sitters or dog walkers upon request.
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PerfectGEMS
Explore the little luxuries the world has to offer. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
BALI HIGH
As if lolling on the sandy beaches of Bali wasn’t enough to lure you to this tropical paradise, the Ritz Carlton Bali has added another temptation. Their special Sarong Concierge, Tresna Dewi, will take guests on a halfday journey that includes seeing samples of local textiles used to make sarongs, visiting an artisan workshop to witness the behind-the-scenes production process of Endek (Bali’s capital’s official cloth), getting an etiquette lesson on how to wear and walk elegantly in the garment, and then visiting a nearby Hindu temple, clad in their sarongs, where they can take in the site’s beautiful décor and hand carvings. Is there a better way to be a local culture vulture?
THE GOLD STANDARD We already know how lovely gold can look on your neck, wrists or ears, but it turns out it’s even better on your face. Euphorie Cosmetics’ Le Royal Luxury 24K Gold skincare line uses the precious metal in everything from an anti-aging eye mask to a cellular serum, all-day moisturizer, facial peeling gel, night cream and filler cream—and with good reason. Gold restores lost elasticity to tissue, slows down collagen depletion and breaks down elastin to prevent sagging skin. Now, your face’s luster can match the shine of your favorite pieces of jewelry!
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A place you’ll always remember. A day you’ll never forget. Your happily-ever-after starts here… at our splendid Palm Beach paradise. With a stunning lakeside pavilion, inventive cuisine and unrivaled service, PGA National Resort & Spa is the premier destination for luxury weddings. Call 1.888.893.2182 today and begin planning your unforgettable celebration at PGA National Resort & Spa.
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The LUXURY of LAUGHTER C
artoons are always good for a laugh, but sometimes, they’re equally good at making us take a closer look at society. Nowhere was that truer than the cartoons featured from 1877 to 1917 in the magazine Puck, many of which are on display as part of With a Wink and a Nod: Cartoonists of the Golden Age at Chicago’s Richard H. Dreihaus Museum. The exhibition, which features 74 rare original drawings for the magazine, also includes illustrated commentary on America’s upper class by such artists as Samuel Ehrhart, Louis Dalrymple and Franklin Howarth. A companion exhibition, Gilded Age Luxury, showcases more than a dozen small luxury goods from the same period, including J.P. Morgan’s own walking stick. We suggest you run and see it before January 8, when these exhibits will close.
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Heavenly REST
ost beds are for getting a good night of ZZZs, but not Swiss artist Conor Mccreedy’s latest art installation, My Blue Heaven. This ingenious, glass-encased design uses the artist’s famous Mccreedyblue pigment combined with the finest white leather, gold/brass pin buttons, and, most importantly, a specially created bed from Bernarda Beds made from the finest micro wood and top-quality silver. The wood base under the box spring was crafted from naturally fallen Austrian trees so it absorbs humidity, and the silver technology prevents any germs. As for the mattress, forget Sealy or Serta—it was personally commissioned and modeled exactly on the artist’s body and weight, movements and comforts. This one-of-a-kind work is currently traveling the world’s most renowned art fairs, and is expected to be on view during Art Basel Miami in December.
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THANKS
for the memories
Contrary to popular belief, not everyone finds taking a great photograph as easy as point and shoot. For travelers who lack even the most basic camera skills, or want to leave both their camera and cell phone behind, there’s Flytographer. This very clever service, now available in 175 of the world’s major cities, connects you online with one of its 350 qualified photographers, who can join you on your trip and capture those precious memories clearly and beautifully. And while the results are not instantly available, you only have to wait a mere five business days to see the finished product—which you’ll then have a lifetime to savor.
food
NUEVO
MEXICO Zarandeado adobo-marinated sea bass, charcoal grilled with Miraflores ratatouille
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We’re not talking about the state of
ne thousand miles south of San Acapulco first inspired him, ensuring that Diego, I’m seated at the marble bar of today his ingredients all grow within 100 the Hilton Los Cabos’ El Meson miles of his kitchen. restaurant (a farm-to-fork and sea-to-table food spot), where I’m chopping a potpourri of Why did you decide to work in ingredients for what will be lunch—a unique Cabo when your training could guest experience the hotel can arrange upon have gotten you a job anywhere? request. Before me is a basket overflowing I can imagine tremendous places like Paris with the freshest ingredients I’ve ever seen, for and New York, where you can bring in the a tortilla soup and guacamole. I know how best-quality products, but I have farmers who BY SHIRA LEVINE fresh the produce is because only two hours have a lot of love for their products. I gain earlier I hand-picked the cilantro, radishes, creativity from that. tomatoes, peppers, arugula, corn, edible wildflowers and a dozen other delights from Can you give me an example? the verdant, fertile grounds of the Huerta Tiky When I saw the zucchini flowers today my Cabo farm alongside Chef Mauricio Lopez. imagination was like, “I can do this, and this As the Hilton’s post-Hurricane Odile and this.” I’m really impressed with how the culinary asset, Mexico’s celebrity chef brings a farmers worry about the products; they love culinary genius with a heavy helping of them. So I care very much about all the great sustainability to his mixing bowls. Rather than ingredients I have in front of me. I love when I focus on flying in fine products from far-flung hear, “Chef, I have a new product for you; you locations, he’s got farmer Gilberto Verdugo need to use it in your dishes!” The farmers just over an hour away, beyond the Sierra de la give me ideas; they say, “Do it roasted.” And Giganta in Miraflores. Chef Lopez sources the then that gets my imagination working, a fruits (and vegetables) of Verdugo’s labors to revolution in my mind. prepare uniquely tasty menus for guests who’ve included Selena Gomez, Justin Bieber, Adam Sandler…and me. Tell me about your food memories from Acapulco. While gathering greens with the sweet-faced, crinkly eyed chef, I When my abuela started cooking, the house smelled delicious—steaks got to know the man whose abuela’s kitchen back in his hometown of with cumin, onions, garlic, pepper. She would let me smell the pan. We
New Mexico, but rather a reimagined look at Mexico’s cuisine that’s haute
enough to tantalize the palate. Here, we chat with a leader in the kitchen, CHEF MAURICIO LOPEZ.
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children thought it was meatballs. She would tell us to go outside because she wanted it to be a mystery. I would look to see the ingredients and then imagine the seeds, the onion, the garlic and the cumin that she put into it.
What would be your last supper?
Do you cook for your grandma and your mom now?
How does she make them for you?
I was born in Acapulco so I like my resources. I like to be on the ocean and catch and make my food. I also like cheese, prosciutto and pasta. I love pasta more than enchiladas—and I like enchiladas. But the truth? Sopes made by my wife.
Simple: corn, a little oil, salsa, cheese, onions and cream. That’s it! That makes me happy! No salmon. No foie gras. No caviar. Sopes.
They love how I cook because I show them how they can make another kind of preparation with their recipes.
And when you are feeling fancy, what do you like?
How old were you when you started cooking? Seventeen. I was one of 15 kids trained to be future chefs for a high-end company. I was one of two guys from Mexico. I won the contest when I was 19 and they sent me to Cancun to start my new life. I trained two-and-half years from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. with three chefs from Asia and France. Now I create my own style of cuisine.
Margarita
Foie gras of course. Also the seafood in Italy, the carbonara pasta in Rome. They use what I love: tomatoes, oil, garlic, basil. That’s it. Simple and easy.
That is your food philosophy: easy, delicious, clean and fresh.
How would you describe your food?
Yes. I have the ocean before me. I have fish. I add the ingredients, what’s in front of me. I don’t have to go to Europe for foie gras, or to Chile for salmon. Everything is here!
A little of everything. I like Italian food. Mexican was one of the last cuisines that I learned. I like simple freshness. I like farm-to-table.
What is an ingredient you don’t have that you want?
You don’t always keep it simple. You got very detailed in your collaboration with the Hilton’s Eforea Spa and its director, Adriana Tello. When I saw the inside of the spa I saw the little tables, and all the little brushes and bottles, and I thought, “I can do something like this with food.” My chefs can do something very special right in front of the guests, with stations and little details, a food menu that reflects the spa.
I don’t need anything else, I have everything. Why do I need caviar if I have really good, fresh fish here? I have really good tuna! Japanese come here to Mexico for our tuna.
You studied with great chefs and mentors. What is the greatest lesson you’ve learned? The best, most important and unique ingredient that I can put on my plate is love.
NORTH OF THE BORDER Wall or no wall, Mexican food culture will continue to influence cuisine here in the United States. The best Mexican-inspired eats are undeniably delicious and increasingly authentic, fresh and local for those who prefer maiz over flour, and are in the cilantro-isdelicious camp. I ate at thoughtfully menued restaurants across the U.S. and found a few special spots where you can get your buen provecho on. In coastal Alabama, dishes get innovative in order to keep things local. At Chef Chris Sherrill’s FLORA-BAMA YACHT CLUB, the lionfish nachos and a catfish ceviche with red snapper cracklin’ give the menu some south-of-the-border flair. James Beard semifinalist Chef Bill Briand, of FISHER’S ORANGE BEACH, fuses Latin flavors into his blue crab claws, marinated in a charred corn vinaigrette with pickled chiles, cilantro and smoked paprika. In Pittsburgh, Chef Dave Racicot’s TÄKO boasts grilled pork shoulder tacos al pastor with roasted pineapple and avocado salsa. My favorite? Tacos Täko: grilled octopus with harissa aioli, preserved lemon and mizuna greens and herbs. The Hawaiian island of Oahu’s fine food scene embraces its multi-culti diversity by using local poke and ahi as base ingredients. At BUHO COCINA Y CANTINA, the Mexican spicy tuna bites take ahi to the next level with spiced serrano chili, chipotle aioli and a tomatillo habanero dressing. At the Four Seasons at Ko’Olina’s brand-new FISH HOUSE, Chef Martin Knaubert’s Mexican corn forever seduces palates, and the chicharon-style duck with Portuguese sausage fried rice is not to be missed. Don’t mess with a foodie’s taco night! At SPOON & STABLE in Minneapolis, Chef Gavin Kaysen’s North Loop restaurant is the food spot du jour come Saturday night. The former Daniel Boulud protégé’s tacos out-dazzle fancy food trucks with mouthwatering filling options: octopus tacos with cranberry beans, and red mole duck with ramp salsa and fried cheese curds.
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wine
SPARKLING DIVERSIONS
FRANCIACORTA, Italy’s “secret” sparkling wine.
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n recent years, Americans have developed a renewed passion for sparkling wines beyond Champagne. While Italy is best known for Prosecco, Lambrusco and BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON Moscato, people are now discovering Franciacorta, a more complex sibling. Made in the metodo classico (or “Champagne method”), where secondary fermentation—the bubble part—occurs in the bottle rather than in steel tanks, bottles age at least 25 months for non-vintage and at least 37 months for vintage or millesimato wines before they are released. The Franciacorta DOCG (a region designated for control and quality of production) lies in Lombardy at the base of the Alps in northern Italy. Elegant, rustic vineyards stand on low slopes and broad valleys below daunting dolomitic Alpine peaks. Sparse trees, gravelly limestone soils and crystal clear lakes reflect the (relatively) cool weather conditions perfect for making bright, tart bubblies commonly evoking hints of pear, papaya, grapefruit and apple. “Franciacorta gives much of the same wonderment of brioche and hazelnut aromas as Champagne, but with refreshing hints of citrus, and a persistent effervescence,” notes wine educator Keith Beavers of VinePair.com. Beavers was part of a nationwide series of “Bubble Boot Camp” seminars this year organized by CitySip.com, of which one was a multi-day “Fun With Franciacorta” event in New York City. Though Italians and Romans have been making still wines in this part of Lombardy for millennia, sparkling wine is a newcomer: winemaker Franco Ziliani produced the first 3,000 bottles in 1961 while working for Count Guido Berlucchi (credited with dubbing wine “Franciacorta” for the first time). The appellation achieved DOC status in 1967 and DOCG in 1995. Today a number of stellar brands are available, notably Bellavista, Ca’ del Bosco and Berlucchi. Many wine writers and sommeliers consider Franciacorta Italy’s best sparkling wine and the one that, like Champagne, can cellar for years or decades. “With a total production that is only 1/20th of the production of Champagne and 1/30th of the production of Prosecco, Franciacorta will continue to focus on a natural approach to the winemaking process, and quality over quantity,” says Giulio Galli, managing director of TMT USA, which imports Bellavista. “We see an evolution where sparkling wines are no longer relegated to celebratory occasions, but are consumed in many different situations by a growing number of people.” Not everything elegant needs cost an arm and a leg: most Franciacortas are nonvintage, ranging between $15 and $35. But if it’s luxury expressions you seek, you have options. The Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Cleminti Rosé ($100) is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from 30-plus-year-old vines, with all steps of vinification and aging taking place in oak casks. And last year, Bellavista released a limited magnum opus (in magnum bottles) called Meraviglioso. The blend of six premium vintages from over the past 30 years will run you between $500 and $800 a bottle—if you can find one.
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giving back
PASS IT ON How to instill philanthropic values in the next generation. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
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o whom much is given, much is expected. But how can you foster a spirit of giving back so that your children actually want to make a meaningful contribution to society? Inspired by a “MultiGenerational Philanthropic Families” panel at Town & Country’s recent Philanthropy Summit, we offer advice from youth and parents who have risen to the challenge. LEAD BY EXAMPLE Barbara Bush, daughter of President George W. and Laura Bush, recalled being 18 years old and “very much searching for my own purpose when my father became president. I was lucky to be born to parents who showed me the world. I saw how much joy they, as well as my grandparents, got from working to help others. I realized I wanted to use my energy to solve problems.” She was especially moved by a trip to Africa, where she saw firsthand that an HIV diagnosis was a death sentence in the
“I can help because I can take on risk.” EMILY TISCH SUSSMAN
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developing world. She witnessed people getting sick because of unsanitary clinic conditions, and felt the frustration of poorly run supply chains that failed to deliver even basic medicines to the people who needed them. “I knew we had the science to fix this, but it’s an issue of access,” she explained. Bush went on to co-found Global Health Corps, dedicated to mobilizing young leaders to solve the world’s largest health challenges; last year, 6,000 people applied for 150 openings in paid fellowships. “Exposure is everything,” she said. “Seeing you engaged in your passion will help others find theirs.” START SMALL This should apply to both the age of your children and the scope of the charity work you involve them in. “With young kids, it starts by trying to get them to understand gratitude, generosity, compassion and empathy,” said Matt Winslow, COO of Cerion and member of the board of The Sands Family Foundation. Constellation Brands founder Marvin Sands, and his sons Richard and Rob, brought these values to both company and family. Now Matt and his wife Courtney (Richard’s daughter) strive to pass them
on to their own young children. “As they get older, kids start to notice the challenges in our society and discover there are people who are struggling. I’m a big believer that you don’t want children to feel a burden. The goal is to get them to want to give back from within themselves.” He recommends involving kids in small acts they can have fun doing, like choosing toys they no longer play with to donate to area children in need. “Around the holidays we also go out to purchase books for city schools. The kids can wrap their heads around this: ‘I have a lot of books that I like to read, and I can help get books to kids who don’t have them.’ It’s never too soon to start being good people and good citizens.” Winslow’s children are enrolled in Rochester, New York’s Harley School, which echoes the values taught at home with an emphasis on “empathy education” and a commitment to community service. As the British adage reminds us, “Charity begins at home but should not end there.” ON’T PUSH Once kids enter the teen years, pushing them can often lead to pushback. “We struggle with how to get our kids interested in giving back,” admitted Mark Kennedy Shriver in conversation with Town & Country editor Jay Fielden. Shriver, who works with Save the Children, comes from a family famous for its generous spirit (father Sargent Shriver was the first director of the Peace Corps, sister Maria helms Architects of Change, brother Tim is CEO of the Special Olympics, and the list goes on), but an effort is required to ensure that the family legacy continues. “They participate as buddies with Special Olympics athletes, which they really enjoy.” But with so much happening in teens’ lives these days, “it’s difficult to get their attention,” he says. Shriver recalled his own home growing up, which was filled with energy. He saw that a lot of work was involved in affecting social change, but that the work could lead to big results—and could offer a lot of fun throughout the process. Shriver notes that his parents always worked alongside their friends and family, and suggests using this angle to get teens to participate; they’re more likely to head to a charity event if they think of it as something fun to do with friends.
“Seeing you engaged in your passion will help others find theirs.” BARBARA BUSH
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“It’s okay to challenge the status quo and do things differently than those before you. We want the irony to spark conversation: ‘If this family is divesting in fossil fuels, maybe we should too...’” JUSTIN ROCKEFELLER 63
LET THEM CHOOSE “My family is wonderful! But I had to get out of New York to have a chance of finding my own way,” explained Emily Tisch Sussman of New York City’s philanthropic Tisch family. “When you’re born into privilege, there’s an assumption that you inherit the money and the name, not always the tenacity, drive and intelligence. But I was encouraged to find my own way to contribute.” Sussman attended Skidmore College and eventually returned to the city to pursue her law degree. She remembered seeing schoolmates forced to take jobs they weren’t passionate about in order to start repaying their college loans, and was thankful she had the opportunity to pursue a career in the public sector without financial stresses. “I’m coming from a stable place, but I saw people who had to take jobs at firms they hated because they had debt. I can help because I can take on risk.” While her parents’ charitable efforts center largely on the arts and education, Sussman has found her own passion fighting for the civil rights of others and encouraging youth participation in the political process. She is currently the campaign director for the Center for American Progress and previously served as executive director of the Young Democrats of America. When it comes to veering from the family path, there may be no more poignant example than that of Justin Rockefeller, whose greatgreat-grandfather John D. Rockefeller Sr. founded and made his fortune on Standard Oil. Now representing the fifth generation, Rockefeller is committed to divesting in fossil fuels, despite the industry ties his surname conjures up. He now works to redirect funds to socially responsible causes. “It’s important to invest effectively and in a way that aligns with your mission. It’s okay to challenge the status quo and do things differently than those before you. We want the irony to spark conversation: ‘If this family is divesting in fossil fuels, maybe we should too...’” Whatever causes spark the interest of your family’s next generation, Winslow suggests showing kids it’s not just about writing a check. “Obviously it’s important to shepherd money to the right places. But give your time and become involved at the ground level to make sure those funds are used intelligently.” Whether it’s social media savvy in the case of older teens, the ability to empathize and connect that’s innate in young children, or your own expertise in management, “we all have a talent that’s needed.”
A MATTER OF FACT B
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t used to be that the only time you would see the word “matte” is if you were shopping for paint and needed to know what the finish would be. Now the word has overhauled the beauty and fashion industry as makeup gurus, celebrities and your favorite stores capitalize on the toned-down texture. Even cars can get makeovers to receive a matte finish. The technical definition of matte is to have a “dull or lusterless surface,” which basically means that light doesn’t bounce off of it and make it shine. One of the easiest beauty trends to spot on its way out last year was the shimmery, shiny look that dominated the early and mid-2000s pop culture scene. While this look hasn’t been completely scrubbed from makeup kits (thanks to highlighters and illuminating products), an entirely new makeup trend has taken over. A matte finish is now the desired look; whether it’s a matte lipstick, foundation, nail polish or eye shadow, this is one trend that has cemented itself in the makeup world. The revival of the '90s style has been strong, with chokers steadily becoming an everyday accessory and racks of
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matte brown lipstick selling out. The key to a true '90s look is all-matte everything, and apart from a few adaptations, it’s coming back in full force. Celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Kat Von D have pushed the matte lip look forward alongside various beauty gurus and fashion bloggers, such as Jeffree Star and Huda Kattan. Jenner even released a line of matte lip kits last fall after intense media scrutiny over the appearance of her (surgically enhanced) lips. Cosmetic lines have either added or consist solely of matte lip products, especially the much-beloved liquid lipstick that seems to dominate every makeup tutorial on social media. Setting sprays that promise to “de-slick” your look and keep your makeup perfectly set and budge-proof are a staple in any makeup artist’s bag. The matte trend has continued to cross over into the fashion industry, with leggings and dresses popping up in boutiques and on runways made entirely of opaque material. Designers like Black Milk and Michael Kors have used matte materials in their designs, and while it hasn’t overwhelmed the runways, the idea is slowly pushing its way in.
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s the matte trend continues to climb in popularity, it’s important to know its roots. Before it was used to describe Kylie Jenner’s favorite lipstick, “matte” was used to describe a paint finish, also called “flat.” Matte paints absorb light and are mostly used when painting ceilings, so the attention is focused on your fabulous throw pillows instead of your glossy ceiling. They also hide any imperfections; a few touch-ups won’t be noticed. Matte furniture is also making its way into the interior design world. While some retailers, like West Elm, carry pieces of furniture with a matte finish, it’s incredibly easy to matte-ify an item you already own. Whether it’s a table, dresser, desk or anything else with a painted surface, it can be changed to a matte finish. One of the best ways to make a piece of furniture look weathered or vintage is by removing its shiny gloss layer. Adding a lusterless finish with some distressing can create this shabby chic effect. For a more opulent design, paint a dark matte color on the main pieces in a room, like a dresser or bed frame, and accent with a burnished metallic. An oxidized metal light fixture will also add a touch of matte, but in a less obvious way. Using a matte finish anywhere else in your house is a little less common. However, using a matte color on your walls can add a luxurious feel and accommodate various interior design styles, from contemporary to rustic. Depending on the color, a matte finish can portray a modern, creative, romantic or bohemian atmosphere. Darker colors, like black or charcoal gray, are perfect for a sleek and luxu-
Using a matte color on your walls can add a luxurious feel and accommodate various interior design styles, from contemporary to rustic. rious vibe. For a more eclectic feel, go for jewel tones like purple, blue and green. A burgundy or chocolate color can easily create a romantic and warm environment. Whatever your style, a matte finish will only be an upgrade. It gives off a smooth and almost velvet texture (much like a matte lipstick!) and can make your entire place feel a little more elegant. One of the downsides to using matte paint is that it can hold dirt pretty easily and trying to scrub it clean will actually wear away the finish. This makes it more suitable to be used in low-traffic areas, like a formal dining or living room. Bedrooms can also get an elegant update with matte walls, but be sure to use a specially made matte paint that can be easily cleaned. Rooms that experience a lot of traffic or changes in temperature aren’t the best places to use a matte paint. For example, a modern-style bathroom would benefit from the light absorbing finish, but matte walls would be difficult to maintain. Instead of looking for a dark matte color in the paint aisle, look at matte-finish
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tiles instead. A matte tile will easily achieve a contemporary look and make cleaning a lot easier. A fun idea for incorporating a matte finish is creating a chalkboard wall. You can paint a single wall with black matte paint for an accent piece or create an entire room of chalkboard for maximum creativity. For an urbanchic vibe, paint a wall in one of the main rooms with black matte paint; a chalkboard wall in the kitchen could become a calendar, a to-do list, a menu, etc. If you don’t want your living room to turn into a graffiti artist’s paradise but love the idea, create a chalkboard wall in a kid’s room or an office. A matte finish can take the atmosphere of your home from boring and generic to eye-catching and unconventional. Depending on the color, it can fit into a contemporary home or a more eclectic design. Furniture is an easy, less permanent way of introducing the effect into your home if chalkboard walls aren’t calling your name right away. Whether it’s makeup, fashion, or home design, one thing is for sure: matte is here to stay.
insurance
Take no shortcuts when it comes to safeguarding your treasures.
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SAFE
or cinephiles, the phrase “jewelry insurance” may conjure up scenes of Cary Grant as a French Riviera cat burglar in To Catch a Thief, trading quips with the austere agent from Lloyd’s of London. In fact, insuring precious gems may be a tad less glamorous, but certainly a necessity for nearly everyone—not just wealthy dowagers showing off their jewels around a roulette table. It starts when a man decides he’s ready to propose to his sweetheart. From the moment he leaves the jeweler he should have a policy in place covering the cherished engagement ring—even before he plans his elaborate proposal scenario involving the bottom of a Champagne glass or a golf hole. “Ideally you would receive an appraisal and insure an engagement ring right when you purchase it,” says Trina Woldt, VP and chief marketing officer of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, one of the oldest in the business. Most jewelry insurance claims are not due to theft but loss, “which includes accidental loss and mysterious disappearance,” she explains. “That could be anything from the dog eating it to having it fall from cold fingers while shoveling snow. And you’d be surprised how many people lose their rings on their honeymoon because they’re not used to wearing a ring and forget that fingers shrink in water.” And on the off chance that a dashing cat burglar does enter your home, be advised that your homeowner’s policy might not provide the ideal coverage. It’s also important to note that filing a jewelry claim under your homeowner’s might cause your premium to increase dramatically. Jeweler’s Mutual plans are comprehensive and cover any kind of loss or damage. Its policies offer to repair or replace a lost item through the jeweler of your choice. In general, specialty jewelry insurance costs about 1 to 2 percent of the value of an item per year, so a $10,000 ring would only cost
BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
THAN SORRY
$100 to $150 per year to insure. “It’s a really affordable way to safeguard items that have both monetary and emotional value,” says Woldt. Deductibles can be as low as zero. (Watch insurance is its own category, but operates identically.) To decide whether you need it for an engagement ring, Grandma’s pearls, or other items, look at each of them and stop to evaluate your instinctive emotional reaction to finding out that they’ve gone missing. The stronger the emotional reaction, the more reason to insure. For those who want even more peace of mind and are more worried about theft than loss, there’s the option of acquiring a safe in addition to insurance. New York-based Empire Safe is a family business in operation since 1904, catering to both businesses and residences. Empire Safe’s products range in price from $2,500 to $35,000, and are recommended for residences with $100,000 worth of jewelry or more. Once again, cinephiles with vivid imaginations are probably picturing stealthy thieves with high-tech equipment trying to pick a lock. In truth, what a thief really wants to do is either break open your safe or move it, so avoid an inexpensive one. “Ninety-nine percent of people selling safes don’t deal with high-end clients,” says Empire Safe president Richard Krasilovsky. “They’re selling safes that can be opened with common tools in the house.” The primary deterrent is weight. Empire Safe designs apartment safes that weigh 500 pounds and are secured to the floor. “They’re strong and heavy and the objective is to intimidate the burglar so he’ll go to shop elsewhere.” In houses, a ground-floor safe can weigh over 1,000 pounds, come armor-plated on all sides, and offer fire protection as an added bonus. Because when it comes to your valued keepsakes, do you really want to take chances?
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IMAGE COURTESY OF PARAMOUNT / THE KOBAL COLLECTION
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veryone knows that a watch’s primary function is to tell the time of day. But over hundreds of years, watch designers have found innovative and beautiful ways to incorporate additional functionality into their watches. A common example is a date window, an element that displays the numerical date of the month on the watch’s dial, and automatically updates it every 24 hours. These additional functions are known as complications, and they’ve become so ubiquitous in the watchmaking world that almost every major watch manufacturer includes at least one version of every complication in its lineup. The truly remarkable companies have found ways to design watches with multiple complications, often resulting in timepieces attractive in both their functionality and their design, simultaneously tools and works of art.
Apart from a date window complication or an automatic movement (which allows a mechanical watch to be wound by the natural movements of the wrist), one of the most common complications is a chronograph, a watch that includes a stopwatch function. Sometimes the term chronograph is confused with chronometer, though the two functions have nothing in common apart from their spelling. (A chronometer is a watch that has been certified to perform at a certain level of accuracy.)
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chronograph movements primarily fall into two categories: columnwheel actuated and cam-actuated. A column-wheel design uses a column marked with ratcheting teeth to serve as an on/off switch for the chronograph. In cam-actuated movements, a series of levers engages the chronograph movement. Because column-wheel engagement is more direct than cam-actuated, it is often considered the more desirable of the two designs, though cam-based chronograph movements are found in some of the most historically beloved, tried-and-true chronos. Without getting too in depth, there are even more complex versions of a chronograph. There are flyback chronographs, which allow for the chronograph seconds hand to be reset without first stopping it. There are split-second chronographs, which measure two periods of time that begin simultaneously but end at different times. And perhaps the most impressive are monopoussoir chronographs, which present the start/stop/reset functions into one side pushbutton. This button is sometimes even incorporated into the crown, creating a classic, simple design which belies its complex interior. The only downside to single-button chronographs is that they cannot be stopped and started again without being reset first.
Because a chronograph complication requires a watch to display the current real time alongside a separate segment of measured time, its design inside and out is equally integral and complex. In addition to the current time of day, the watch’s dial must display the seconds and minutes (and sometimes hours) elapsed in the chronograph complication—all without making the watch’s dial appear cluttered. For the most part, these additional elements are displayed in subdials: two or three small circles placed on the dial, most often found on the bottom half of the dial. As the primary second hand in the center of the dial is often reserved for the seconds elapsed in the stopwatch, the time-only seconds display is moved to one of the subdials. The wearer controls the chronograph through push-button controls on the side of the watch’s case. Most commonly, these two pushbuttons are located above and below the crown on the right side of the case. The upper button starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom button resets all the stopwatch-related dials to zero. How designers manage to fit all of a chronograph’s information onto a watch’s dial is nearly as impressive as what goes on inside a chronograph. In terms of interior design,
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hy would someone wear a chronograph? The watch has an undeniable foothold in the worlds of auto racing and aviation. Accordingly, many chronographs include a tachymeter display on their bezel, which allows the wearer to use the stopwatch function to calculate the speed at which he or she is traveling by starting and stopping the chronograph at the beginning and end of a mile. When Neil Armstrong stepped onto the Moon in 1969, he was wearing a chronograph: the Omega Speedmaster, a watch forever after known as the “Moonwatch.” But chronographs are not only for those on the move. I own multiple chronographs, but the one I wear most often–a Longines Evidenza–was a gift from my wife. It’s my daily watch for work because I use the chronograph to time my literature students’ writing assignments. I use a chronograph to time drives in the car, and when I’m grilling on my back deck. For someone who’s never been close to a race car or a cockpit, I find almost daily use for my chronographs.
Alongside the Omega Speedmaster, there are some other notable chronographs that have reached icon status among watch collectors. Chief among them is the Rolex Daytona. There may be no vintage sport watch more coveted than the Daytona, and serious collectors drool whenever a pristine rare example comes up for auction. Most famous are the “Paul Newman” Daytonas, six particular models of the stainless steel Daytona with odd, funky dials. While they did not initially sell well in the late 1960s, these watches can easily sell at auction for over $100,000 today. Legend has it that the watch became forever linked to the actor after he wore one on the cover of an Italian magazine, and Italian watch collectors responded by buying up as many as they could, thinking the model would gain inevitable popularity. The modern version of the Rolex Daytona was updated in 2016, and it would be an understatement to call it the king of chronographs. There is no more coveted steel sport watch being produced today.
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In addition to the Rolex Daytona and the TAG Heuer Monaco, here are a few contemporary sport chronographs worth considering. The TUDOR Heritage Chronograph was launched in 2010 as one of the first models in the increasingly popular Heritage Collection, a TUDOR product line dedicated to releasing modern interpretations of the brand’s most historically relevant watch references. The Heritage Chrono recalls the original design codes of the 1970s reference 7033, and was affectionately nicknamed the “Monte Carlo” after the glamourous motorsport destination Circuit de Monaco.
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nother famous chronograph is the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph. Known as the “Steve McQueen” after the actor chose to wear and prominently display the watch in his 1971 racing movie Le Mans, the watch is also more infamously known as the watch given to Walter White by his partner Jesse in the television series Breaking Bad. Stephen Colbert wears one as well. Though the square face is a polarizing design, the striking blue dial with white subdials gives the watch a distinct, timeless appeal, making it one of the most iconic chronographs still being produced today. Yet another modern chronograph with vintage styling is the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18. Only slightly larger than the original 36mm Carreras of the 1970s, this 39mm chronograph has obvious racing roots. Featuring a highly legible dial and light silver with charcoal subdials, the watch also has a subtle but useful beveled date window at 6 o’clock, boasts a workhorse automatic movement (visible through a sapphire caseback), and according to tradition, a tachymeter scale in kilometers. With the dark subdials dominating the dial, it’s a sporty design that dresses up easily with the perforated leather strap.
Today, the TUDOR Heritage Chronographs occupy their own cult status. The model in blue is particularly popular, and TUDOR’s decision to supply both a steel bracelet and fabric strap with the watch offers incredible versatility. Like all TUDOR watches, the fit and finish are impeccable. No one creates steel bracelets as comfortable and solid as Rolex, and as its sister brand, TUDOR shares the same watchmaking expertise in the creation of its own cases and bracelets. In addition to the retro-styling of the bluedialed version, the watch is also offered with a black or gray dial, each featuring “home plate-shaped” indices. All versions of the TUDOR Heritage Chronograph feature secure, screw-down push buttons to start, stop and reset the chronograph function, and beefy, easy-to-grip screw-down crowns. Interestingly, and in accordance with its vintage roots, the minute subdial of the TUDOR Heritage Chronograph marks time to 45 minutes instead of the traditional 60. Just another cool, quirky detail that makes the TUDOR Heritage Chronograph so appealing. Not all chronographs are driven by mechanical movements. Shinola, an American watch manufacturer based in Detroit, has quickly established itself as a premier designer of quality, bold timepieces featuring highly reliable quartz movements. Their top-ofthe-line chronograph, the Rambler 600, was inspired by Craig Breedlove, the first man to break the 400, 500 and 600 MPH world land-speed records on wheels. A large, impressive watch at 44mm, the Rambler 600 features a brushed all-titanium case, so it remains light on the wrist. A highly legible
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black and white dial keeps things simple, and true to its inspiration, it has a tachymeter-marked bezel. Like all Shinola’s products, its build quality is top-notch, and inside, the imported quartz movement is as reliable and accurate as they come.
“Another famous chronograph is the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph, known as the Steve McQueen.”
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s a dress option, there is the IWC Portugieser Chronograph. IWC makes impressive watches, and its increasing popularity, particularly among younger horologists, is no doubt attributable to the brand’s reputation for impeccable finish and elegant design. Though its design may be traced back to traditional nautical instruments, the Portugieser would look at home on the wrist of a senator (in fact, Frank Underwood, the fictional president on House of Cards, wears a number of IWC watches).
There’s a well-known notion in the watch world that almost every famous timepiece has a little Jaeger-LeCoultre in it. For decades, the worldrenowned watchmaker played a literal role in production for many household-name watch companies, often supplying them with Jaeger-LeCoultre movements. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre holds strong to its place on the Mount Rushmore of Swiss watchmakers, continuing to lead the way in horological innovation with its outof-this-world “Extreme Lab” creations, and continuing its legacy of classic, iconic designs, such as the Reverso. The JaegerLeCoultre Master Chronograph ticks a lot of boxes when it comes to a dress chronograph. It’s perfectly-sized at 40mm, and impressively thin at 11.7mm. It features a clean, legible dial, complete with date window at 4:30, and like all Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, its in-house movement is a quality benchmark in the industry. There aren’t many other watches that offer this much at this price point, and certainly none that carry the pedigree of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
At 40.9mm, the Portugieser is “Goldilocks-sized,” and unlike many chronographs, moderately thin at 12.3mm. Its automatic movement boasts a 44-hour power reserve, and it’s available in multiple materials and colors, including rose gold or stainless steel with ardoise, silver, or black dial options. Like all IWC’s offerings, this is a timepiece of the highest standard, an heirloom-quality piece of horological art.
“There’s a well known notion in the watch world that almost every famous timepiece has a little Jaeger-LeCoultre in it.”
Whether you’re searching for a watch to last a lifetime, or looking for an addition to a growing watch collection, chronographs offer a fantastic marriage of design and functionality. In both sport and dress timepieces, the ability to monitor and track additional segments of time is an indispensable tool.
“IWC makes impressive watches, and its increasing popularity, particularly among younger horologists, is no doubt attributable to the brand’s reputation for impeccable finish and elegant design.”
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designers
JADE TRAU makes jewelry that wears beautifully and comfortably, with an emphasis on craftsmanship. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER
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Would you ever consider varying the stones you use?
ade Lustig, founder and creative director of Jade Trau, is diamond royalty. A sixth-generation diamantaire, she descends from the legendary Trau Bros. founded in late-1800s Belgium. She entered the business as an 18-year-old apprentice, enlisted by her grandfather Solomon Trau of New York City’s S. Trau, who recognized her aptitude and interest. The work led to Forevermark inviting her to create a jewelry line in 2011. It is a collaborative relationship that continues today and became a launching pad for Jade Trau, which she founded in 2013.
I definitely think about it, but for now I am sticking with diamonds!
Who is the Jade Trau customer? She values practicality and embodies understated style (but with a personality of course!). I love that my customers truly appreciate quality craftsmanship and understand that classic diamond jewelry is something that should be loved enough to feel like an heirloom—and hopefully it will become one!
Are you the first woman in your family to work in the business? What has that been like?
What is your most exciting design moment to date?
How did you know?! I have to say that while at the time it seemed perfectly natural when my grandfather suggested I join the family business, in retrospect it was quite progressive. I remember my grandfather’s diamond banker, a woman, saying, “There is a voice for women in this industry. Be that voice!”
Designing the Jade Trau for Forevermark Exceptional Diamond Cuff bracelet that actress Olivia Munn wore to the 88th Academy Awards. I wanted to make a bracelet that was a true, stand-alone couture moment, all about the beautiful contour of a woman’s arm. I also love the Rae wrap ring, part of my signature collection, and I used that as my inspiration.
How has your history and training influenced what you do today? I was trained as a diamond buyer and manufacturer by my grandfather. Years were spent traveling to De Beers in London and the diamond bourses in Antwerp and Israel, learning the trade. Louping diamonds gave me the attention to detail that, I think, attracts people to my pieces.
What was the best teaching your grandfather bestowed upon you?
Georgian/Victorian jewelry is a favorite of yours. How do you translate that influence into your own designs?
My grandfather is a practical man, but every so often we would have a diamond in our inventory that just wouldn’t sell despite it being a beauty. He would always say, “That stone just has no mazal!” And I use that in my life. Everything can be done right, but you need a little mazal to make things happen.
In the Georgian period, they did not have today’s diamond-cutting skills, so jewelry was made to best accent the diamonds. That is a central theme in many of my designs, especially my bridal. Last year, the collection I launched was all inspired by Victorian chatelaines. This year, I added to it with my miniature Stork scissors and my Eyelet collection.
Which pieces do you consider your signature styles? I think my Kismet rings and Crescent pieces represent my style well. The focus is on the diamond, but I use my signature six-prongs and work with designs that I think flatter.
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