Hamilton Jewelers by Accent Magazine

CONTENTS FALL/WINTER 2013 HAMILTON JEWELERS PRINCETON, NJ 609-771-6010 HAMILTONJEWELERS.COM CHAIRMAN MARTIN SIEGEL PRESIDENT HANK B. SIEGEL VICE PRESIDENT

DONNA J. BOUCHARD

VICE PRESIDENT DAVID S. KASTER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CHRISTOPHER D. NAVARRO

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER

FEATURES 4 Welcome Letter

62 Travel: Take a Drink-cation 66 The Arts: Ballets Russes

LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO

6 The Year in Review

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

8 Pantone Fashion Color Report

PRODUCTION MANAGER

10 What’s New

PEG EADIE

12 Spotlight: Mikimoto’s 120th Anniversary

PRESIDENT AND CEO

14 Trend Report: Confident Chic

CHAIRMAN AND COO

BRITTON JONES

MAC BRIGHTON

18 Watches: Icons in Time

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

22 Designer Profile: Charles Krypell

24 Red Carpet: Dreamy in Black & White 26 Collections: Willow by David Yurman

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018,

40 GIA: Journey to Africa

BRIDAL SECTION

44 From the Runways

30 The Advice

52 Perfect Gems

32 The Memories

56 Food: Gulf Gourmet

35 The Ring

60 Wine: Opus One

36 The Dress

212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written per-

mission of the publishers. Volume 11, Issue 2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

oys ter perpe tual d ate jus t ii

rolex

oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.

The Pantone Fashion Color Report is the foremost international authority on colors and trends for the upcoming fashion season. It was created nearly 50 years ago with the purpose of simplifying decision-making and buying processes for fashion designers, industry leaders and enthusiasts. The report showcases the latest fashion trends and predictions —

MYKONOS BLUE

KOI

ACAI

BEAUJOLAIS

all in the name of style. V I VAC I O U S

SAMBA

DEEP LICHEN GREEN

LINDEN GREEN

EMERALD

CARAFE

TURBULENCE

As a new season of style debuted during Fall 2013 Fashion Week, so did a new palette of fall colors, compliments of Pantone. For the brisk days ahead, there are several bright hues to enhance and enliven as colder months set in, such as red Samba and orange-based Koi, while all-time favorites such as Emerald and Carafe step onto the scene. From dark gray Turbulence to brilliant magenta-toned Vivacious, the options are endless. From serious fashionistas to those just looking to update their wardrobes, jewelry will complement the refreshingly reﬁned styles and the classics. There’s a gemstone to invigorate any outﬁt and set the stage for individual style and character.

SPOTLIGHT

Golden and White South Sea cultured pearl and diamond earrings set in white gold, with the option of detachable studs. $56,000

Multi-colored Golden, White and Black South Sea cultured pearl gradient necklace with pavĂŠ diamond clasps may be worn as one long or two separate strands. $98,000

OPTIONS ABOUND

Pearls in Motion multi-colored Black South Sea cultured pearl gradient necklacee, with pearls that may be adjusted along the chain to be worn as a necklace or a lariat. $7,900

Mikimoto celebrates 120 years of luster.

ew this year in celebration of Mikimotoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 120th anniversary, these gorgeous South Sea pearl pieces each feature an interchangeable element. The unique designs offer the versatility to wear Mikimoto pearls in an infinite number of ways, making the possibilities endless. Feast your eyes on these tantalizing treasures from the sea.

design a n d technology. luminor 1950 10 days gmt - 4 4mm

TREND REPORT

CONFIDENT

CHIC

Daring designs make this a season to celebrate! LORRAINE DEPASQUE

n jewelry and fashion, the attitude this season is all about self-assured style. As the year has unfolded, designers of both have been showing us collections that focus on strong silhouettes, sculptural shapes and bold color. “In fashion, we’re seeing a new, highly polished adult elegance — finally!” says David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “Pantsuits are practical and polished, dresses have simple and sophisticated lines, and accessories have strong shapes with refined detailing,” he explains. And the jewelry? “It’s classy, not flashy!” This fresh, confident chic style frequently channels the Fabulous Forties: lots of cinched waists, full circular skirts, and good-taste glamour like you see on film stars in all those postwar era films, where

everyone was dressed to the nines. For us this season, that 1940s spirit lives side-by-side with style evoked by the two decades that preceded it, too. Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, marketing and trends specialist in contemporary fine designer luxury brands, “Often it takes more than one cultural wave to create a major trend tsunami, and this year we had the Downton Abbey craze crash into The Great Gatsby. The romanticism of flappers and moonshine speakeasies inspired many goldsmiths to create geometric-shaped jewels that borrowed from the silhouettes and symmetry of Art Deco.” Given the new Forties flair that’s recently entered the scene, there are many jewelry collections being done in bold yellow or rose gold. Cocktail rings are one

From top: Ivanka Trump pink opal and diamond pendant in 18K gold from the Toulouse collection, inspired by Art Deco, Ivanka Trump aquamarine and 18K white gold layering necklace from the Patras collection, Stephen Webster Fly by Night collection stacking rings with black and white diamonds

Pois Moi Collection

Clockwise from top left: Roberto Coin bangles and rings in high-polished 18K rose gold from the Pois Moi collection, Charles Krypell sterling silver lariat necklace with black sapphires, Charles Krypell sterling silver and black sapphire bracelet with toggle clasp, Ivanka Trump bold gold ring in 18K yellow gold from the Metropolis collection, Roberto Coin rings in 18K rose gold from the Black Jade collection, featuring green chalcedony and black jade, Stephen Webster hexagonal silhouette earrings of green agate and the designer’s signature faceted quartz crystal, from the 1920s-inspired Deco Haze collection

key to Forties fab; as you may recall, the mammoth rings came into fashion in the Thirties but grew in popularity in the 1940s and 1950s. Some of the best new cocktail rings — also known as ‘dinner rings’ back then — are rose gold. “It’s great to see rose gold back in the spotlight again,” says Edelstein. “Gold in general is coming on strong, warming up the big ‘white out’ that we saw in metals for the past few years.”

incidentally, comes in a spectrum of shades — black, pink, pale green — and that’s part of the excitement of new contemporary opal designs. October girls may claim opal as their birthstone, but it’s a gem so mesmerizing that every woman should have something special in opal.

Fashionable Shades In the coming months, as you add to your colored gemstone jewelry wardrobe, consider blue, pink, green and black. Some of the best blues in the new collections are aquamarine, lapis, tanzanite, blue sapphire and blue topaz. There’s a great deal more lapis and tanzanite fashion jewelry this year than last, so definitely ask us to show you some new pieces in these stunning gems. In pink, some of the hottest looks come in tone-on-tone, rose gold jewelry set with one or more of these pink-hued gems: pink opal, pink sapphire, rose quartz, pink tourmaline, or pink-hued mandarin garnet. With Emerald being the 2013 Pantone Color of the Year, finding something with emeralds that’s exactly to your taste is easy this year. But because of Pantone’s brilliant choice, luxury brands have some other great greens in their new collections too, especially opal, green chalcedony, chrysoberyl and green agate. Vivid green gems were popular during the Art Deco period, so again, with jewelry designers beautifully obsessed with the retro aesthetic, you’ll find some dazzling greens in new jewelry that echoes that glamorous era in particular. Finally, rounding out our fab four of important gem colors this season... black is back. Of course, as David Wolfe says, “Black never, ever really goes away.” Not in clothes, and certainly not in jewelry. What tends to trend, however, are the different varieties of black stones; this year, be sure to look at new noir statements in black jade, black sapphire, black diamond and black onyx.

Stacking for Style Dramatic ring looks can also be created through the art of stacking. For holiday 2013, being in vogue — for daywear and evening — often means stacking on rings and bangles and layering in pendants with necklaces. “With all the clean lines and pure shapes in fashion — sans the details of seasons past — fall/winter readyto-wear and couture is perfect for layering on jewelry,” says Wolfe. Especially with gifting season coming up, jewelry that stacks and layers should definitely be a part of your wish list. No woman can ever have too many bands, bracelets, necklaces or pendants! “While stacking has been popular for awhile,” says Edelstein, “a new added trend this year is putting on multiples of tiny bands, ultra-thin bangles, and wispy chains for a more delicate, yet still very interesting, layered look.” Many of the newest uber-long chains have stations of gem slices that impart pops of color. Because light passes through the twodimensional sliced gems, much like when sunlight shines through a stained glass window, the jewels always have a liveliness to them. On-trend Gems

Without a doubt, both emeralds and opals continue to shine as some of the most ‘in’ gems this season. Both stones began propelling back into fashion popularity in early 2012, but now you’ll see many innovative looks with these special gems. Opal, not

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IT TAKES YOU.

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Recipient of the HealthGrades® “America’s 50 Best” AwardTM for 3 Years in a Row (2011-2013)

WATCHES

ICONS IN TIME ROBERTA NAAS

THE DAYTONA Rolex has been an auto racing sponsor since it first became involved with the Daytona International Speedway races in 1959. It wasn’t until several years later, around 1963, that the brand unveiled its now much-coveted Daytona watch, a favorite of the legendary Paul Newman. Over the past 50 years, the much-clamored-for Rolex Daytona has naturally evolved, as has Rolex’s involvement with auto sports. The brand continues to sponsor the Rolex 24 at Daytona endurance race, as well as other events. It also continues to unveil autoinspired Daytona pieces, like this Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18K Everrose gold, with a fixed engraved black ceramic bezel and gold Oysterlock clasp.

THE CARRERA This year marks the 50th anniversary of the legendary TAG Heuer Carrera. The first was introduced in 1963, and it has since been worn by legendary drivers and celebrities. Jack Heuer, who conceived of the watch, was inspired by the Carrera de Pan American races. “That was the most dangerous race. Drivers would travel at speeds of about 160 miles per hour over rough terrain. In five years, 35 people were killed; they had to stop the races,” explains Heuer. “But that was the first I had heard the name Carrera — I knew I had to use it for a watch. It was sexy. It meant something. It was a perfect name.” The first Carrera was an incredibly legible chronograph, and while the line has evolved, it has remained true to that creed of legibility. This 50th Anniversary Jack Heuer Carrera, in stores this October, features the house-made 1887 caliber and is stopwatch inspired, with crown at 12:00. It also offers pulsometer and tachymeter scale.

THE CALATRAVA Just over 80 years old, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has remained committed to its original design philosophy for eight decades. First unveiled to the world in 1932, the sleek round watch with its elegant case and immediately identifiable hobnail pattern was, at the time, an avant-garde design. Created in the pursuit of perfection, the Calatrava fast became an iconic timepiece, embodying everything a pure dress watch should be. The Calatrava collection predominantly consists of simple three-hand and time/date pieces. This newest Calatrava Ref. 5227G in 18K white gold houses a mechanical self-winding movement and offers a sweep seconds hand and date aperture. Classically elegant, with an invisible hinge dust cover, it is nonetheless water resistant to 30 meters.

THE TANK The iconic Cartier Tank was unveiled in 1917, and it remains a strong symbol of the brand more than 100 years later. For the creation of the original Tank watch, Louis Cartier was inspired by the massive tanks of the First World War. It was immediately welcomed and became a global best-seller for the brand. Cartier has since evolved the Tank into several different collections, including the Tank Francaise, the Tank Americaine and the Tank Louis, each of which honors and pays tribute to the original Tank in style, but with its own visionary and contemporary appeal. This manual Tank Louis Cartier watch is crafted in 18K rose gold.

THE NAVITIMER Having just celebrated its 60th anniversary, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential timepiece for aviation buffs. First unveiled to the world in 1952, the Navitimer is a wrist chronograph with a circular slide rule that enables pilots to make all navigation-related calculations. The watch was not only an immediate success, but it also became a legendary tool of aviation and achieved cult-like status. This timepiece even accompanied Scott Carpenter on his orbital flight aboard the Aurora 7 capsule in 1962. Today, the Navitimer in its different evolutions is worn by many elite pilots and teams, including the Breitling Jet Team of aerobatic flyers. This Navitimer 01 is a certified COSC chronometer with glare-proofed sapphire crystal, chronograph, bi-directional rotating bezel and circular slide rule.

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

Internationally renowned jewelry designer Charles Krypell has an acute sense of understanding human nature. His design talent and ability to connect with clients reﬂect this understanding. His wisdom comes from three decades of creating timeless jewelry for the sophisticated collector. A native New Yorker, Charles Krypell realized his calling as a jeweler while attending Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. As a sculptor, Krypell worked with multiple mediums reﬁning his ability to design jewelry that captivated the audience by incorporating three-dimensionality into his work. In 1976, Charles Krypell launched his collection and discovered his knack for charming people with his designs. He describes this experience: “It’s one thing for your professors and friends to tell you that your work is great. It’s another thing altogether when the public has to reach into their pockets to buy a piece of your jewelry. When that happened, I was addicted.”

”WELCOME TO OUR WORLD”

The seven pilots of the Breitling Jet Team belong to the international elite of aviation professionals. In performing their aerobatic figures at almost 500 mph, flying 7 feet from each other and with accelerations of up to 8Gs, errors are not an option. It is for these masters of audacity and daring exploits that Breitling develops its chronographs: sturdy, functional, ultra high-performance instruments all equipped with movements chronometercertified by the COSC – the highest official benchmark in terms of reliability and precision. Welcome to the Breitling world.

NAVITIMER

Red Carpet

DAVE M. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES

BRAD PITT at the London premiere of World War Z

PIAGET

BRIT MARLING at the New York premiere of The East

DREAMY IN BLACK &WHITE Bling shines bright against fashion’s timeless palette.

STUART C. WILSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

CHARRIOL

ZOE SALDANA at the London premiere of Star Trek: Into Darkness

AMBER VALLETTA at an EIF Women’s Cancer Research Fund event

PIAGET

NORMAN SILVERMAN/KATERINA MAXINE

LUCIAN CAPELLARO/GETTY IMAGES FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES

MIREILLE ENOS at the London premiere of World War Z

PATRICIA CLARKSON at the New York Premiere of The East

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

JANELLE MONAE at the BET Awards

CLIVE OWEN at the 66th Annual Cannes Film Festival

CARRIE PRESTON at the True Blood Season 6 premiere 25

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

STATE ROOM

LIZA MINELLI at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center

COLLECTIONS

ORGANIC HARMONY

David Yurman’s new Willow collection is all about energy, enchantment and enduring magic.

“Like everything in nature, it’s perfectly asymmetric.” —David Yurman

t David Yurman’s country home is a pond, a peaceful place where willows arch over the water. An early evening walk to this spot inspired Willow, a new jewelry collection he created with his wife, Sybil. The graceful designs interpret David Yurman’s iconic cable motif in a feminine way, and effortlessly layer with his existing collections. Like fronds dancing on a light breeze, there is a kinetic energy in Willow. Each strand of cable is carefully placed to create a natural effect, with pavé diamonds shimmering like evening light on velvety, soft buds. “There’s a bit of

organic harmony,” says Yurman. “Like everything in nature, it’s perfectly asymmetric.” Willow also takes a cue from the classics. As with all David Yurman collections, ancient art and symbolism shape each design. In mythology, the willow is the tree of enchantment. Now, in precious metal and sparkling diamonds, you can also be captivated by the Willow collection’s enduring magic. The range of styles includes bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings in sterling silver and 18 karat gold with pavé diamonds.

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THE ADVICE

Rethink your setting, refresh your ring! metals. Add diamond eternity bands (prong set or channel set), or try more colorful gemstones for a change. Mix modern with vintage. Whatever combination you choose, creating an outline on either side of your original rings will often enhance their importance.

Re-setting your diamond will give your rings a brand new look while holding on to the sentiment of your original commitment. One caveat: If it’s an old family heirloom, we will need to have our jewelers carefully inspect your gemstone to be sure there are no imperfections or flaws that could affect remounting. Assuming it’s fine, you have several options: adding baguette side stones, creating a halo of smaller diamonds around the center stone (a popular option these days), or working with our experts to custom design a unique and original setting. If you don’t want to re-set your stone, a current trend is to stack on additional bands for a layered effect. Add as many as you like: the only limitation is the length of your finger! Mix

Platinum is known for being the strongest metal; is that my best choice for bridal jewelry? Platinum is definitely a great choice because of its strength; white gold has also been popular for the past few decades. But yellow gold is making a big fashion comeback and there’s no reason it can’t also be used for bridal jewelry. In fact, stylish celebrities from Jennifer Aniston to Miley Cyrus have recently chosen yellow gold for their rocks! The perception that yellow gold is soft is true only in its purest form: 24 karat. The most popular form is 14 karat, a blend of pure gold with an alloy

B R I D A L

S E C T I O N

that actually makes it extremely durable and a great choice for bridal jewelry.

Nothing gets my diamond rings clean like a visit to the store for a professional polish. But how can I get the same sparkle between cleanings? Google “how to clean a diamond” and you’ll read about home steam cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners, toothpaste, baking soda solutions, denture-cleaning tablets, ammonia and warm soapy water. Bottom line: it’s always best to visit us for a complimentary inspection and cleaning whenever you think it’s needed. We also carry some excellent cleansers and ultrasonics that can be safely used at home between professional cleanings if you so desire. Your diamond is precious: why mess around with home remedies?

IMAGE COURTESY PRECISION SET

I love my wedding and engagement rings, but I’m ready for a change. Any suggestions for an easy update?

THE MEMORIES

BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

Capturing theMoment A VINTAGE FEEL Super 8 Films creates vintage-looking videos using super 8 film and retro video cameras. “I like the look and feel of older formats,” explains owner Megan Hill. “The final aesthetic is similar to what people like about Instagram filters. You can choose the pretty, soft look, a retro look with color reversal, or traditional black and white.” The goal is not to create long, boring movies that show every detail of the day, but to capture the overall feeling and emotion. Hill tries to “catch the natural moments: nothing is posed, we don’t ask anyone to do anything over. And we’re not ‘wedding paparazzi.’ Our style is to use minimal equipment.” Super 8 is a silent format, so added music plays an important role. (As a former DJ, she has a large selection of options.) The final edit will range from eight to 20 minutes, and prices average around $5,000. SAME-DAY EDITS Imagine your wedding dinner is just coming to a close. The lights go down, a screen goes up and your wedding video begins to play. Same-day edits are becoming increasingly popular, says B R I D A L

Zugelter. “They’re even better when you surprise your guests. I’ve seen couples surprise their parents; once a bride even surprised the groom. He was speechless!” Couples are encouraged to be introduced, cut the cake and have their first dance before the last edit, in order to include it all in the final version. Zugelter and his team record sound, so vows and speeches can be included in the film if you wish. Studio Z’s same-day edits are about four to five minutes long; prices average around $5,500. POPPING THE QUESTION Proposal films are another recent trend. Justin says they’re lots of fun because they tend to be very creative. “They take a lot of planning and attention to detail, and it’s a collaborative effort between me and the person proposing. The videos are usually more public, but they can also be private and intimate. For example, Luck was a video I filmed about a guy who felt unlucky until he met his wife. The film opens with him talking about his unlucky life, and then cuts to when he met his now-wife. He had filmed a lot of the special moments throughout their relationship, so we use some of his footage and end with him proposing and her reaction; it’s very emotional.” Proposal films can range from two to 10 minutes depending on how elaborate the plan. SAVE THE DATE Save the date videos are an innovative way to get the word out to your loved ones. Couples typically send a postcard or a magnet, but now they’re including a URL directing guests to a website to watch a short film. Justin remembers one couple planning to get married on October 19th: they filmed in NYC on 10th and 19th Streets; they took a cab ride and stopped the meter at $10.19. It’s a cute way to get guests excited, and it will be just as much fun to watch as it was to make. S E C T I O N

IMAGE COURTESY STUDIO Z FILMS

Those tacky, lengthy wedding videos that you may (or may not) have watched before are long gone! Taking their place are artsy, beautifully edited short films that capture the essence of your wedding. “My goal is for people who may not know the bride and groom to walk away feeling like they do,” says Steve Zugelter of Studio Z Films. “When future generations of the family watch the film, they can see how she walked, how she smiled, who she was…” To tell your unique story, “We discuss story points in a preliminary meeting,” explains Michael Justin of Michael Justin Films. “We want to know about the most meaningful people and moments so we’re sure to highlight them.” Here, we explore several of the new cinematic styles.

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THE RING

SomethingBold SomethingYou! TODAY’S BRIDAL JEWELRY OFFERS DAZZLING DETAILS TO EMPHASIZE PERSONAL TASTE.

“Don’t settle for a relationship that won’t let you be yourself” is one of Oprah Winfrey’s most famous and repeated quotes about the bond between two people in love. In the same way, no bride-to-be should settle for wedding rings that won’t let her be herself. How fortunate then that there are so many choices today. White,Yellow, Rose... or Maybe Two-toned? Be open to the possibilities, because the new rule is that there are no rules! White gold or platinum, yellow gold or rose gold — it’s up to you. In an Accent exclusive interview with Colin Cowie, renowned wedding and event planner/design consultant/television personality/author of 11 books and a spokesman for Platinum Guild International, Cowie reminds brides that “just like looking at pictures of your wedding day hairstyle, you never want to look at your wedding rings in 20 years and ask, ‘What was I thinking?’” So whatever your personal style, be sure to choose something that you love now and can see yourself loving for years to come.

Diamond Cuts with Cachet The important thing to remember about diamond cuts is the better the cut, the more brilliant the stone. A strong trend has been rings that evoke past eras, so by extension, the diamonds used in those rings — especially cushion cuts, rose cuts and emerald cuts — are vintage in feel. Cushions, particularly, have had incredible renewed popularity. Another beautiful choice is a ring designed with a halo of small stones around the cushion-cut center stone, giving the center diamond an even bigger look.

IMAGES COURTESY CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS, PRECISION SET, CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS

Engaging Colors Beyond White Diamonds Whatever setting and stone you decide on, remember that white diamonds aren’t the only option. You may want to look at blue sapphire (thanks to Kate Middleton’s engagement ring, more brides than ever are selecting this option as a center stone). Even more popular are natural color diamonds: yellow, pink, blue, green... the full spectrum. And did you know that natural color diamonds are actually rarer than white diamonds? So while a diamond engagement ring is, obviously, special unto itself, choosing fancy color diamonds can actually make your ring even more unique. While there are certainly many choices today, if you think a custom design might be more what you’re looking for, discuss the options with your jeweler. Bring in a magazine, tear sheets of ads you’ve seen — the more examples you can show, the better. As Colin Cowie says, “These are your bridal rings, so buy whatever you want. The important thing is this: There’s no such thing as a wedding without a ring!”

B R I D A L

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THE DRESS

FALL 2013 STYLES Clockwise: Papillon, Madeline and Creme Brulee designed by Monique Lhuillier

SPRING 2014 STYLES Clockwise: Paris, Intrigue and Jolie designed by Monique Lhuillier

GownEnvy

DROP-DEAD-GORGEOUS DRESSES FOR THE DISCERNING BRIDE. Disappointed by the lack of options during her own search for a wedding gown, Monique Lhuillier decided to take matters into her own hands. Driven by a lifelong love of fashion and a natural inclination towards bridal and evening dresses, she set out to present a collection of modern and fashion-forward wedding gowns. Lhuillier and husband Tom Bugbee established the brand in 1996, and she showed her first collection that same year to acclaim from buyers, press and consumers.Today, Monique Lhuillier is recognized as one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost bridal and evening gown designers. Based on the success of her couture gowns, Lhuillier has expanded her offerings to a complete readyto-wear collection, bridesmaids dresses and gowns for special events. A red carpet favorite, stars from Jessica Chastain to BeyoncĂŠ regularly show off Monique Lhuillier designs at awards shows and events. Reese Witherspoon, Carrie Underwood and Vanessa Lachey all recently wed in gowns by the designer. Despite the limiting parameters of wedding gown design (of which color is the most obvious), Lhuillier manages to present fresh and inspired designs season after season. This year, look for lots of tulle and texture, overlays and lace. Necklines are tasteful, and sleeves are surprisingly sheer and sexy. Threedimensional embellishments, including delicate butterflies and flowers, add just the right finishing touch. Monique Lhuillier has become synonymous with refined design, meticulous construction and unparalleled glamour. What more could you ask for in your once-in-a-lifetime dress? B R I D A L

S E C T I O N

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GIA

JOURNEY TO AFRICA

t is my great privilege to serve on the Board of Governors of the Gemological Institute of America, the jewelry and gem industry’s leading educational, research and gemstone grading organization. The mission of the GIA, to ensure the public trust in the gem and jewelry industry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science and professionalism, is the overarching theme of each board meeting. The Board of Governors is comprised of 16 individuals from around the world, with expertise in a variety of areas such as mineralogy, education, research and finance, as well as experts from the jewelry and gem industries. The Institute currently has facilities, including laboratories, research centers and schools, throughout the world. From May 11th through May 23rd, we had the opportunity to travel to South Africa and Botswana for the interim Board of Governors meeting. We flew from JFK to Johannesburg, and there boarded another one-hour flight to Gaborone, Botswana, where we were met by the always exceptional and attentive GIA security team. The trip provided amazing insights for all of the Governors into the diamond industry in

these two nations — South Africa being one of the oldest diamond-producing and cutting nations, and Botswana being one of the newest. The contrasts between the two are significant. Botswana is a 47-year-old country of about two million people, comprising an area about the size of Texas. The land is mostly flat, and 70 percent is covered by the Kalahari Desert. It is bordered by South Africa, Namibia, and Zimbabwe, as well as a poorly defined border with Zambia, which is at most a few hundred meters long. Setswana is the local tribal language and English is used as the main language for conducting business. Since diamonds were first discovered there in the 1970s, Botswana has become the largest diamond-producing country in the world — over 23 million carats per year — and a growing number of companies have opened diamond-cutting facilities there. The diamond industry has transformed Botswana: it has enjoyed one of the highest average economic growth rates in the world, averaging about 9 percent per year from 1966 to 1999. The diamond industry has also created growth in

IMAGES BY KEVIN JAMES

Diamond mining and production in Botswana and South Africa: a firsthand account by HANK SIEGEL

The new De Beers DTC headquarters in Botswana.

private sector employment, and Botswana is rated as having the strongest democracy and being the least corrupt country in Africa, according to international corruption watchdog Transparency International. Interspersed through the three-day-long meetings in Gaborone were evening events, during which we had the opportunity to interact with local and national government officials, industry executives and leaders, and GIA staff. At the first of these evenings, as the chair of the education committee, I had the honor to be seated next to the Undersecretary to the Government of Botswana Ministry of Education. The primary topic of conversation, as one might imagine, is how to educate the Botswana citizens, especially those of university age, for careers in the gem and jewelry industry. While the GIA currently has only a laboratory in Gaborone, he minced no words in expressing to me the government’s desire to have a school there in the near future. He explained concerns over the current system: the government pays for its citizens to attend university programs throughout the world, but getting those same young people to return home to work in Botswana is a challenge. The following evening’s event, to celebrate the GIA five-year anniversary in Gaborone, was wonderful. Every employee attended, and they were immensely proud to be working for an organization as prestigious as the GIA. Several received their five-year presentations and could barely contain their excitement. In the 12 countries where we have a

presence, the GIA is very fortunate to have 2,000 dedicated staff members — from custodians to diamond graders — who take great personal pride in their work. Two of the young men I sat with that evening received their fiveyear recognitions, and thanked me at least 16 times each. Pearl, who is the receptionist, has been with the organization for four years. She implored, “Next year you must come back when I am here five years” and then she made me dance with her to the entertainment for the evening, an extremely popular singer by the name of Shanti Lo (the equivalent of seeing the Michael Jackson of Botswana). Day trips were to the newly developed diamond district, called the Diamond Technology Park, equipped with the most advanced security measures, including xray scanners, armed security guards and bulletproof glass. The process of analyzing and planning how to cut the rough material into finished diamonds has become completely technology-based through the use of advanced optical equipment, yet the actual cutting and polishing is still largely dependent on human skill. At first, we were surprised to learn that this country’s diamond-cutting workforce is largely made up of women, since other cutting centers around the world employ mostly men. But as the local leadership explained, “Women are more patient than men, and this is a careful, methodical and patient process.” The expats supervising the cutting, from Israel and India in these particular cutting facilities, are training a relatively young workforce. We visited several cutting factories, but for me the highlight was the

Since diamonds were

first discovered there in

the 1970s, Botswana has become the largest

diamond-producing

country in the world.

'Specials' as they’re called, rough diamonds of at least 10.8 carats, were in carefully selected groups because of their rarity.

visit to the new De Beers DTC headquarters. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the rough diamond trading arm of DeBeers. The new facility is a joint venture with the government of Botswana, and sells more diamonds in terms of value than any other entity in the world. We saw literally thousands of carats of rough diamonds in piles divided by shape, size and approximate quality, and even for those of us with a lifetime of experience in our industry, the comments ranged from “wow” to “incredible”. One pile alone was over 5,000 carats. The DTC sorters categorize the rough diamonds into approximately 12,000 different categories. Some crystals weighing over 100 carats, as well as many other large and high-quality diamonds, were also being processed on the day we visited. Very few in our industry have ever had this opportunity to see the sorting floor and the specialized machinery (built and modeled after coffee bean sorters). Suffice it to say that it was just plain cool, and quite frankly, overwhelming, knowing the value of all those diamonds. Beneficiation is a core part of the De Beers business model, and fundamental to our industry’s commitment to work with the diamond producing nations of Africa. Beneficiation initiatives ensure the growth of business activities catalyzed by the diamond industry, which add value to the economies of diamond-producing countries.

This was further punctuated by our informative meeting with Rutang Moses, one of the most influential women CEOs in southern Africa who oversees the growth of the Technology Park, home to over 20 tenants in the diamond supply chain. She shed light on all the positive advancements in education and employment that the diamond industry has made possible for the citizens of Botswana. Today, nearly 3,000 workers in Botswana are cutting and polishing diamonds to export, at close to $800 million in revenue last year and closing in on the $1 billion mark by 2015. Not all of the polishing operations are profitable, but many are and others have made great strides toward that goal. Such was not the case more than 20 years ago when De Beers opened the first diamond-cutting factory in Botswana. Some executives of the company were skeptical at first, and believed

cutting diamonds in Africa was too expensive to compete with India or an emerging China, and that the business was too far removed from world markets to make it viable. Nevertheless, the government insisted, noting that it wanted its chief resource, diamonds, to bring more employment and value to the country’s economy. As Hamilton was the first familyowned fine jeweler in the world to have our business practices audited and certified by the independent Responsible Jewellery Council, it was tremendously inspiring to see firsthand the good work that the diamond and gem industries are doing to enhance economic growth here. The next day saw a 5 a.m. flight to Johannesburg and a tour of the diamondcutting district, presentations by the Ministry of Mining and Diamonds, and more factory tours, as well as a visit to the GIA laboratory and Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School. We were escorted to the GIA offices in a very secure jewelry complex, and went through more security screenings before entering this seemingly older group of buildings. Guards armed with rifles (and very serious faces) were on the streets as we carefully moved between appointments within the complex. We had several client visits, which included seeing more extraordinary polished diamonds over 10 carats. After our visits in Gaborone, we weren’t expecting another once-in-a-lifetime experience, but we had one: we discussed, with the diamond planners and expert cutters involved, the plan for cutting the Cullinan Heritage diamond. One of the most extraordinary specimens ever unearthed, the Cullinan Heritage weighs over 507 carats and was discovered at the Cullinan mine. By the time this magazine is published, this very rare diamond will be known as the largest flawless and colorless round brilliant diamond ever unearthed. And while the final weight remains a secret until its official unveiling, it is over 100 carats. Never in my career, having sold thousands of diamonds at Hamilton to commemorate special occasions, have I ever witnessed and held so many important diamonds as I did on that incredible day. The next day, we embarked on another adventure to witness the education mission of the GIA in action. We visited WITS University, which offers classes in gemology and other related subjects on GIA’s behalf. Then we took a wonderful and awe-inspiring guided tour through the Apartheid Museum and then

Hank Siegel holds the as-yet uncut Cullinan Heritage diamond, measuring in at over 500 carats.

It was tremendously inspiring to see firsthand the good work that the diamond and gem industries are doing to enhance economic growth here.

Soweto, which put everything into perspective: though South Africa has the continent’s largest economy, the diverse country is still searching for balance and equality among its population of Africans, Afrikaners and other ethnic groups. We lunched at Wandies, a restaurant famous for being an early operator during the prohibition of alcohol for the black community in shebeens, or bars. It was fun and delicious, and we met the famous chef and owner, Wandie Ndala. The day ended with another cultural dinner with the local GIA staff: more music, dance and African flair for all to enjoy during the evening. It was once again inspiring to see the pride of the GIA employees. Our final day in Africa found us traveling outside Johannesburg to the Cullinan diamond mine for an informative tour with the head of the mine. This mine is one of the most famous in the world: it’s where the Cullinan Heritage diamond was found a few years ago and where several large (over 20 carats each) rare blue diamonds have recently been discovered. This was an exceptional tour as we were able to go to the “command center,” the place where all of the underground mechanisms of the mine production are monitored, and the final room in which all of the diamonds are retrieved. I couldn’t help thinking of the 1960s television show Get Smart as we went through about a dozen locked door chambers to get into a small room, where a vacuum system moved the diamonds from the mine to the secure area. When a colleague asked how the rough crystals are transported to the next facility, the answer surprised us all: on days and times that are constantly changing, two helicopters land almost simultaneously and are on the ground no longer than 45 seconds, the rough diamond boxes are secured in a safe in the helicopter, and off they go! Having bought and sold diamonds for nearly 40 years, the immense privilege of being a part of this trip, with its many behind-the-scenes glimpses at our incredible industry, was a highlight of my career — so far. It was a remarkable experience to witness firsthand the amazing good work being done in the diamond producing regions, and it is an honor to share the story with you.

Thank you to photographer Kevin James, a wonderful gentleman best known in South Africa as Nelson Mandela’s family photographer, who accompanied our delegation on this trip.

ONE OF A KIND, ONE PIECE AT A TIME, EACH BY HAND

SLEEK & CHIC Whether from the future or borrowed from the boys, modern shapes call for minimalist jewelry.

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Pomellato sterling silver handmade ring. Pomellato sterling silver handmade bracelet. Forevermark 18K white gold, yellow gold and rose gold cuff bracelets each with two pear-shaped diamonds. Hamiltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Classic Gold Collection 18K yellow and rose gold oval interlocking link bracelets.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

SEREIN DIAMOND MOON PHASE ON BLACK ALLIGATOR

Fall fashion for men takes a well-tailored turn.

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Hamiltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sterling silver engravable belt buckle. Baume & Mercier Clifton timepiece with 18K rose gold case and brown alligator strap. Patek Philippe Calatrava timepiece with rose gold case and sapphire-crystal case back. Swiss-made cufflinks in brushed stainless steel with a three-bridge tourbillion. Swiss-made cufflinks in rose gold with functional watchmaking mechanism.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY IMAGE.NET FROM MERCEDES-BENZ NEW YORK FASHION WEEK AND MERCEDES-BENZ MADRID FASHION WEEK

QUITE THE GENTLEMAN

PERFECTGEMS EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

HOLIDAY SPIRIT

For over 60 years the Italians have kept Franciacorta pretty much to themselves. This lively and sophisticated sparkling wine from the Lombardy region is not only considered the best in Italy, but many connoisseurs regard it as one of the finest sparkling wines in the world. The most prestigious Franciacorta is produced by award-winning oenologist Mattia Vezzola at Bellavista, a nearly 500-acre vineyard owned by the Moretti family. To help celebrate the season, Bellavista Franciacorta is now available at chic shops across America. (Impress your guests with the top marque, Vittorio Moretti Millesimato Extra Brut 2004.) If you want to experience Franciacorta at the source, visit L’Albereta, the Morettis’ beautiful Relais & Chateaux villa overlooking the vineyards and Lake Iseo, to taste the wines and wander the picturesque Lombardy countryside.

PRIVACY ON THE HIGH SEAS

With just one cabin, ideal for an amorous couple, the sleek, 100-foot Alexa is the ultimate in romance on the sea, cruising the Indian Ocean and catering to the tender twosome’s every whim. The quarters feature antique and contemporary art, silk rugs, a white ensuite bedroom surrounded by windows, and a balcony for private breakfasts or late-night stargazing. Seven crewmembers include the captain, the cruise directors (who are also dive masters), the chef (who prepares gourmet food paired with excellent wines), and because the Alexa is co-owned by Talika, the innovative French cosmetic brand, a resident skin therapist. The ardent duo decides the schedule, activities and itinerary: dive to untouched coral reefs, explore uninhabited islands, have a massage or a full program of personalized beauty treatments, swim naked with manta rays... or just make love all day.

GWA1100-1A3

Absolute TOUGHNESS

SOLAR POWERED

ATOMIC TIMEKEEPING

A SOLAR PANEL COMBINED WITH A LARGE-CAPACITY RECHARGEABLE BATTERY ENABLES THIS IMPRESSIVE SOLAR TIMEPIECE TO RUN SMOOTHLY UNDER ANY LIGHT WITH NO BATTERY REPLACEMENT.

TRIPLE G RESIST

MULTI-BAND TECHNOLOGY RECEIVES TIME CALIBRATION SIGNALS AUTOMATICALLY FROM UP TO SIX TRANSMITTERS AROUND THE WORLD (US, UK, GERMANY, JAPAN X 2 AND CHINA). THIS TECHNOLOGY ALSO ADJUSTS FOR LEAP YEAR AND DAYLIGHT SAVING TIME.

This tough structure is built to withstand 3 types of gravitational acceleration in the form of shocks, centrifugal force and vibrations. - Shock-Resistant Structure

- Centrifugal Force Resistance

- Vibration Resistance

CREATURES AND COMFORTS

JOHN ALDERSON/CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM

Northwest of Johannesburg, South Africa, in the heart of the 75,000-hectare Madikwe Game Reserve, the Molori Safari Lodge is a captivating combination of stylish interior design and fascinating wildlife. The five suites’ interiors are by Fendi, Kenneth Cobonpue and Philipp Plein. There are wooden decks, private infinity pools and fully retractable floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Molori’s cuisine is under the direction of gourmet chefs, who prepare meals from local ingredients and serve them alongside South African wines. Outside, there’s fishing in the Groot Marico River or golf at nearby courses. The view from the swimming pool includes a watering hole that attracts black and white rhino and zebras. And there are elephants, lions, buffalo, cheetahs, brown hyenas, hippopotami and more than 340 bird species, most of which can be seen during one of the customized game drives.

CELEBRATING STYLE

YOUR VERY OWN CHOCOLATE

The Chicago History Museum is currently presenting Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair. Beginning in 1958 and continuing for 50 years, the Ebony Fashion Fair traveling fashion show blossomed into an American institution that raised millions for charity. The Chicago History Museum presentation, one of the largest special exhibitions in the museum’s history, introduces visitors to Eunice Walker Johnson, who became Ebony Fashion Fair’s producer and director in 1963 and brought the pinnacle of European fashion to communities that were eager to see new images of black America. The 7,000-square-foot display, with over 60 magnificent garments from designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Christian LaCroix and Patrick Kelly, will be running through the winter.

Tache Artisan Chocolate on New York City’s Lower East Side is the creation of Aditi Malhotra, a graduate of the Glion Institute in Switzerland and the French Culinary Institute. Her handcrafted confections, made from Peruvian, Venezuelan, Brazilian and Belgian chocolate (no artificial colorings, flavorings or additives) include gold dusted Champagne truffles, chocolates with imported orange and lemon peel, and the remarkable tequila bonbon, a dark chocolate shell filled with tequila ganache and topped off with fleur de sel and lime. Malhotra also makes and ships personalized chocolates, filled or mixed with just about anything: an abundance of fruit… nuts and spices… a favorite vintage wine or liqueur... maybe even blue cheese. The sky (or at least the Milky Way) is the limit.

FOOD

GULF GOURMET

The food’s haute in Low Country. SHIRA LEVINE

CHEF STEVE ZUCKER

Some of the best chefs start very young: you were 17. Because I was extremely young and raw, I was able to fall in love with cooking and really go for it. But I had to learn the old-school way, first by watching and then working my way up. I did that before I went to culinary school and it has benefited me my whole career. I learned to have eyes in the back of my head and multitask. You’ve cooked all around the world, yet you still live in a small beach town along the Gulf of Alabama. I’ve traveled all over: South Korea, Taiwan, Italy, France. I’ve worked in Maui, Las Vegas. I went to Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island. But honestly, there is nowhere I’d rather be than here in Alabama, working with Big Bob on our good food and good hospitality. We’re running 12 different kitchens. We have some restaurants that were destroyed by hurricanes. But the reality is, everywhere I’ve lived there has been [the threat that] something devastating can happen. Down here we have tough people who love life. They appreciate every day. Why is the South such a special place for food? A gumbo can change from town to town. (Our gumbo made the Guinness Book of World Records!) Everyone has their own unique style; I love that and I love traveling through these states learning about the history of our food. We have the best blue crabs, better than the Chesapeake’s, and the most incredible oysters. Our red snapper, grouper, mahi and flounder are killer good. Then we have great dirt for vegetables and fruit, and plenty of game: deer, alligator, rabbit. What has influenced you as a chef? I’m influenced by Louisiana, where I’m from, but Lower Alabama is my home now. We have great people making great sauces using the greatest ingredients. Jean Louis Palladin and John Besh are chefs that have inspired me. Michel Richard changed my outlook on food. He put on a meal with texture as well as flavor, textures I’d never experienced before. I ate with him at Citrus in L.A. on my way to Taipei, and he used a lot of crazy savory stuff. What are your favorite dishes? I love something as simple as a Gulf oyster or a simply prepared fish. And there is nothing better than a good gumbo. What about non-southern food? Likes or dislikes? I love me some kimchee. I’m not a huge fan of tripe.

outhern kitchens have long produced some of the best chefs (and most delicious dishes) in America. The post-colonial influences of Creole, African, Cajun, French and Native American cultures have infused powerful, exotic flavors into what can now be considered not just southern food, but southern cuisine. Cooking pros and restaurant reviewers with a focus on this epicurean niche know that all the good grub can no longer be lumped into the ‘greasy spoon and fried’ category. Rather, they recognize the Low Country for its unique ingredients and ability to infuse traditional classics with cutting-edge innovation. Historically, agriculture has thrived down in the five Gulf States — Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida — due to rich, fertile soil and the Gulf of Mexico’s warm, seafood-filled waters. But despite the wealth of fresh ingredients, southern living hasn’t always been easy living. The last seven years have pummeled the region with deadly hurricanes and record-breaking flooding of the Mississippi River system, not to mention one of the worst oil spills in recorded history. But business is back: docks have been rebuilt, boats restored and cleaned. Ecosystems and estuaries are returning to their former splendor. We spoke with top chefs from Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi about their home-cooked chow and the love and passion they deliver onto our plates.

IMAGE TOP LEFT GETTY 1

Corporate chef for Aloha Hospitality based in Orange Beach, Alabama

Real food, made fresh by real people, really!

DiShcatering weddings, intimate parties and really BIG events!

{ gottahavedish.com } 908.996.0208 photo credit: Nicole Leigh Photography and Susan Stripling.

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CHEF ROB STINSON Owner of Salute Italian Seafood, Lookout Seafood & Steaks, and Back Bay Seafood Tell us about what inspired you to become a chef. I’ve been in the restaurant business since I was 15 working as a busboy. I moved to New Orleans at a young age to start my culinary career with Cordon Bleu Chef Gerald Thabuis at Broussard’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. I furthered my education in Italy working with Master Italian Chef Ciro Cuomo, and eventually moved to Long Beach, Mississippi, where I opened my first self-owned restaurant, Long Beach Lookout. Italy in general is my true inspiration for great food and wine. (I could retire there tomorrow and be content.) I really love Long Beach and Gulfport because it’s where restaurants have prospered. I’m proud to call those areas home now. I have opened 31 restaurants, six of my own; I love the thrill and excitement of opening restaurants. What makes Mississippi so special for you? We have the best seafood in the world. Back in the late-1800s, Biloxi was the seafood capital of the country and had already started shipping seafood all over the country by railroad. The flavors of the South are truly different than anywhere else: spicy, flavorful, with a unique blend of immigrant influences. You’ve gone to great lengths to share how healthy your food can be. What’s the trick? The trick is to package healthy in a way that makes customers feel as if they’re not sacrificing taste. Great spicy, sweet and sour flavors add contrast in the dishes; texture and color give the diner the experience of eating with their eyes and taste buds, to bring about satisfaction while still eating healthy. Fresh local produce, seafood and proteins help. I find that crisp, colorful veggies as additions to our fresh-seared entrees make the diner feel he’s gotten his money’s worth. My new show, Fit to Eat, which airs on Mississippi Public Broadcasting, has allowed me to showcase some of my favorite local ingredients prepared in a healthy manner. Where do you like to eat when you’re not busy cooking? My favorite restaurant is Bayona in New Orleans. Chef and owner Susan Spicer is truly the ultimate creative talent. My favorite restaurant in Mississippi is Jordan River Steamer owned by Hank Plauche. Unfortunately, Isaac destroyed his great location, but he’s in the process of rebuilding. What are your personal comfort foods? Shrimp, chicken and veggies prepared Asian style.

CHEFS NEALY CRAWFORD AND KEITH FRENTZ Married chef duo and owners of Lola in Covington, Louisiana Do you like working together as a couple? It’s great, there’s no question about it. We’re a package. Of course we have ups and downs depending on our moods, but we know what each other needs to get the job done. There isn’t a lot of talking in our kitchen. We can be at each other’s throats, but 99 percent of the time we’re good. We always end with a smile and a quiet ride home. As young chefs starting to garner buzz, why did you opt to open a restaurant outside of the New Orleans-proper food scene? We left the city because of Hurricane Katrina; we opened the January after it hit. Our restaurant is in Covington, where I’m from. The first year we opened we were voted Best Chefs of the North Shore of Louisiana. We got Chefs to Watch in Louisiana Cooking magazine; we were two of the five. This year we were named the King and Queen of Louisiana Seafood and we got second place in the Great American Seafood Cook-off. We do a lot of community work as well, so people have really gotten to know Lola and us. How do you describe Louisiana food, and what makes it so special? We are comfort food. We’re Sunday family dinner with a fancy twist. We take those old southern recipes and use newer ingredients. We’ll use different types of rice blends in our jambalaya to make a different flavor; we put mascarpone in our grits and collard greens. We can walk to the corner fish market and buy fish and shrimp that, just hours before, were swimming in the salty water of the Mississippi Sound and the Gulf of Mexico. Simple food has developed over the years from farmers’ tables. It’s food that was always seasonally influenced and home grown. What should people know about southern food that they might not already know? You have to take your time to research a city and be food-aware of the area. Southern food doesn’t have to be the tourist crap with cream sauce. At Lola, we grill, roast and braise to get away from that stigma of being fried, greasy and buttery. We let our fresh crab and shrimp speak for themselves. What’s your favorite restaurant other than your own? We like Patois in uptown New Orleans, and also Dominica. Those are our local favorites. With our second child on the way, we haven’t been traveling much! But there is this little yellow, open-air restaurant in Cozumel, Mexico that we love. It’s so authentic and cool, with fresh fish and killer salsa. We are Mexican food freaks.

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WINE

OPUS ONE

Chatting with the maker of one of the world's most iconic blends. ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

Opus One winemaker Michael Silacci

around. But as you taste the vintages, you find there's a consistency, a mouth feel and texture that helps define Opus One each year." Silacci also isn't afraid to continue to explore the potential of the wine, whether through scientific means (he introduced nighttime harvesting to catch the grapes at their plumpest, and added parfumist/scientist Alexander Schmidt to the roster of people who analyze the blend each vintage), through management (vine workers are specifically trained and dedicated to harvesting grapes for Opus One, and everyone from harvesters to accountants have a hand in finalizing each vintage) or through sheer gut instinct, as in 2006 when "two beautiful lots of Petit Verdot" inspired him to risk co-fermenting the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. "My gut feeling was that it would work." Silacci is also adamant that, while Opus One is a top-tier wine, it displays an aura of welcomeness. The winery recently opened its doors to visitors (by appointment online, though you can often secure an appointment when you drop in), and though the wine is crafted to age well for 20 years or more, it's also plenty tasty upon bottling (unlike some of the stuffier Bordeaux). "When you taste a newly released Opus One, it's not masked by oak, since we age in new French oak. That tells me that the wine has substance and the oak is just one component. It also tells me the wine is going to age."

IMAGES COURTESY OPUS ONE WINES

mong serious wine fans and collectors, a handful of truly iconic wines stand out, revered for their longevity (like the Premier Cru houses in Bordeaux), their innovation (as when the Super Tuscans dared to introduce French grapes to Italian wine culture), or the sheer quality of their product. Like Latour, Ornellaia and Stag's Leap, Oakville-based Opus One wows connoissuers and collectors alike with its product. Unlike the other labels, however, Opus One is dedicated to producing only one expression each vintage: a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven blend with a Bordeaux influence and a decidedly Californian approach. "Everything about Opus One, from the buildings to the vineyards to the principles of viticulutre, was made by consensus," says winemaker Michael Silacci. The winery was created in 1980 by two giants in the wine world: Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The idea was that a serious, Premier Cru Bordeaux-style wine could be created in California's Napa Valley, which was only just establishing its claim as a serious wine region. Silacci joined the group in 2001 as a DOVE (director of viticulture and oenology) before being appointed winemaker in 2004. "The entire focus is on creating a single red wine," says Silacci. "To keep that sense of purpose, you need to have a very deep understanding about what you're doing." He also stresses that they're not making the same wine each year, but adjusting the blend (using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) as growing conditions require. "Malbec (introduced to the blend in 1994) adds spice and character; Petit Verdot (first introduced in 1997) adds structure. "It may seem, if you look at the varietal composition, that we're bouncing all

TRAVEL

TAKE A DRINK-CATION Wineries and distilleries offer up luxe accomodations. ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

ines, spirits, beers and even cocktails can evoke a specific sense of place: Tuscan Brunello, Scottish whisky and Mexican tequila all taste better at their places of origin, and when experienced later, can take you back to that remarkable journey in an instant. Whether you're traveling with the sole purpose of visiting a boozy hotspot (your favorite winery, perhaps, or a local whisky festival), planning a destination wedding, or you're in the area by happenstance, an increasing number of wineries, breweries and distilleries are providing posh accomodations that embed you in the action. While many wineries around the world boast charming cottages or extra on-site rooms, a few locations take things up a notch (or three!) with elegant hotels, resorts and private bungalows. Castello Banfi, located in the Brunello region of Tuscany, is at the heart of Italy's Banfi wine estate. The family-owned winery began as the dream of Italian-American John Mariani, Sr. (inspired by his great-aunt Teodolinda Banfi, the head-of-household for Pope Pius XI). Helmed now by his daughter Cristina Mariani-May, the brand aims for a blend of classic and state-of-the-art techniques for modern, natural wines. A holistic approach to winemaking extends to the lodgings. Known as Poggio alle Mura in the 13th century, the fully renovated castle sits atop a hill overlooking 7,100 acres of Banfi's vineyards and the surrounding fields and forests. Visit the castle to enjoy tours, top-tier restaurants, an

Above: The Castello Banfi castle and vineyards.

enoteca-style tasting room and the Museum of Glass and Wine, with exquisite examples of glassmaking dating from ancient Egypt, through Rome and Venice, to modern day. Il Borgo — a small stone hamlet alongside the castle — houses the handful of elegant rooms for a longer stay. Modern amenities (full WiFi, a new wine shop, interior design by Federico Forquet) and shaded, private entries blend perfectly with 18th-century architecture. Stay in the royal Poginello suite and score a complimentary bottle of vintage Brunello (1978 at the moment). You can walk the grounds, take tours, even take in the Tuscan countryside from a balloon ride that launches right outside your room. (€1,560 to €3,000 per person for a three-night package, based on double occupancy. Includes a guided tour and wine pairing Tuscan dinner, children under 12 free. Visit castellobanfi.com. ) Also in Tuscany, L'Andana is everything a luxurious Tuscan villa should be. The Mediterranean-themed resort rests amid 1,200 acres of expansive vineland. The brainchild of Italy's Moretti family (Gruppo Terra Moretti), it’s now a joint effort with famed chef/restaurateur Alain Ducasse. In addition to Ducasse’s La Villa restaurant, the resort features a spa, a driving range and an interior ‘winter garden.’ A cyprus-lined lane leads to the impressive ‘summer home’ plastered in warm ochres and salmons with a grassy lawn and outdoor pool. Junior suites feature incredible views of the grounds,

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Below: Gordon Castle room and exterior.

rustic modern French/Italian-influenced design and free WiFi. The larger Superior and Prestige suites include fireplaces for plenty of late-night wine tasting, and a romantic terra cotta chapel is ideal for weddings. The Terra Moretti Group is behind a number of respected Italian wineries, including Bellavista, Petra and Tenuta La Badiola. Founded by Vittorio Moretti in 1967 and overseen by his three daughters, Terra Moretti has been actively expanding into partnerships with luxury hotels and yachts... because wine tastes great in those venues, of course! (€550 to €1,400. Visit andana.it.) Perhaps wine isn't your thing. If it's a glass of single malt for which you yearn, and your favorite way to drink involves having a dram handed to you by your butler, then get thee to Gordon Castle in north-central Scotland. Located near Gight, in the Speyside whisky making region (think The Macallan, Cragganmore, The Glenlivet), Gordon Castle has a long, intricate history with Scotch whisky. Built by George Gordon in the 1470s, it was once one of the largest country homes in Scotland. It was here that the 4th Duke of Gordon — who was ‘harboring’ tenant George Smith's illegal distillery — helped push to make Scotch malted whiskies legal, and on the Duke's land where Smith's The Glenlivet distillery first set up house in 1824. Today the castle-turned-hunting lodge is a full-fledged, fully refurbished hospitality site with immaculate grounds, lush furniture, original paintings and yes, Findley the butler. Whether you arrange a wedding, come for the world-class salmon fishing on the grounds, or set up a tour of the brand new Glenlivet distillery and visitor center (perhaps during the biannual Speyside Whisky Festival), a week here will spoil you for anywhere else. If you ask extra nice, perhaps they can help track down a bottle of the new, mysterious Glenlivet Alpha, of which only 3,500 bottles were released.

(Exclusive booking, fully catered, £3,000 per night for up to 10 people, minimum three nights. A seven-day stay is £16,000 for up to 10 people. Extra guests £100 per night. Visit gordoncastle.co.uk.) t's my baby, I designed it," says Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership of the new Yeatman Wine Hotel in Oporto, Portugal. "I thought, I only really get to do a hotel once in my life, so it ought to be the best one." Located in the heart of port wine production, the hotel overlooks red-roofed houses and the Duoro River, a river that defines much of the wine culture in Spain and Portugal. The Relais & Chateaux hotel wows on entry with elaborate marble staircases, classic statuary and a perfectly poised outdoor pool (and sultry indoor version). Rooms feature innovative design including beds and hot tubs in some rooms crafted to look like wine barrels. "I thought it would be too much fun to put a bed in a wine barrel," says the charismatic young Bridge. "And every room has a view." Following a treatment and Roman bath at the Vinotherapie Spa by Caudalie or a sommelier-guided tour of the wine cellar, head to dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant and sample wine director Beatriz Machado's 1,200-bottle list, including ports from The Fladgate Partnership (Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca). The vintage Fonseca 2008 made from old vine grapes is particularly warm and rich, yet understated. If you're going all out, the Bacchus Suite (named for the Roman god of wine and fun) features a freestanding fireplace, copper soaking tub and 1,600 square feet of open design, fine wood floors and a private terrace. A Bacchus Wedding Night package is also available. (€249 to €1,100 per night based on double occupancy. Visit the-yeatman-hotel.com/en.)

‘‘I

Left: The Bacchus Suite at the Yeatman Wine Hotel. Right: The library at L’Andana.

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THE ARTS

BALLETS RUSSES

A blending of creative talents that forever changed the face of art. DAVID HOWLETT

1. Léon Bakst, Costume for a Beotian Shepherd from Narcissus, 1911, painted cotton. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 2. Jean Cocteau, Vaslav Nijinsky from The Spirit of the Rose, poster for the opening season of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, Paris 1913, color lithograph. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 3. Henri Matisse, Costume for a Warrior from The Song of the Nightingale, 1920, felt, velvet, satin and silk with paint, gold tinsel, studs and braid, and brass decorations. Victoria and Albert Museum, London 4. Léon Bakst, Costume design for Vaslav Nijinsky as the Faun from The Afternoon of a Faun, 1912, graphite, tempera and gold paint on laid charcoal paper. Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Hartford, Connecticut

few years ago, Lady Gaga made a music video in which she sang and danced wearing a hat designed by architect Frank Gehry. This collaboration, however remarkable, pales in comparison to the synergy achieved by the Ballets Russes (pronounced balay roos) in Paris 100 years ago. Impresario Serge Diaghilev brought his dance troupe to Paris in 1909, when unrest in Russia had caused a withdrawal of royal patronage. For the next 20 years, he brought his performers together with the world’s greatest composers, artists and fashion designers in a display unlike any other. Washington’s National Gallery of Art recently devoted two floors to Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes from 1909 to 1929. The show combined sketches for outfits, paintings and photographs of the dancers, set designs and miraculously preserved costumes, original programs and posters, punctuated with short projections of modern companies performing some of the Ballet Russes projects: The Rite of Spring, The Firebird, Daphnis and Chloé, and Petrushka. All 40 of the costumes on display, although a century old, are still in remarkably good condition. Fashion and costume designers who worked for Diaghilev included Coco Chanel (1883-1971), Alexandre Benois (1870-1960) and Léon Bakst (1866-1924). Materials included wool, felt, velvet and printed cotton. The colors are still vibrant and the high quality of the needlework is still apparent. In addition to professional clothing designers, Diaghilev turned to artists of the day for costume ideas. Contributors included Picasso, Matisse and Di Chirico. Artists also treated the Ballets Russes as a subject:

the works include a portrait of designer Léon Bakst by Modigliani, a sculpture by Rodin of mercurial dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, and two sensitive portraits of dancer Olga Khokhlova by Picasso. (The painter and the dancer married in 1918 and remained so until Khokhlova’s death in 1955, although Picasso’s other love interests were legendary.) The composers whose music was utilized by the Ballets Russes included the greatest of the day: Stravinsky, Prokofiev, Debussy and Millaud, among others. One true treasure that remains is the huge stage backdrop for the final act of Stravinsky’s The Firebird (1926), designed by Natalia Goncharova. The tapestry measures an amazing 51 by 33 feet, so the observer is dwarfed by this item and momentarily feels like a dancer on the stage. The importance of the Ballets Russes in its time might be hard for us to understand, given the diminished role ballet has in the arts today. The premiere of The Rite of Spring in 1913 nearly caused a riot, since half the audience loved it and half were scandalized. Nijinsky was a fascinating character who specialized in androgynous roles, the best known of which was based on Claude Debussy’s Afternoon of a Faun. Nijinsky’s descent into mental illness coincided with the slow decline of the Ballets Russes itself. The golden age of the company ended in 1929 with the death of Diaghilev and the onset of the Great Depression. Recently, the New York City Ballet has worked with designers Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Joseph Altuzarra and Gilles Mendel, so perhaps there is a chance we are entering a new era of partnership among the arts. But for the apex of collaboration between fashion, music, dance, and visual art, history will always point to the Ballets Russes.

As the apex of

collaboration between fashion, music, dance and visual art,

history will always

point to the Ballets Russes.

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HAMILTON JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2013