Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry

ACCENT

THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2014

SIMPLY MODERN JEWELRY’S NEW SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY

PLUS: A NIGHT TO REMEMBER

THE GRAMMYS

SPECIAL

WATCH SECTION

DEAR FRIENDS W

e began this business to celebrate in the life events of our clients.

For now over 35 years, our clients have consistently placed their trust in us to help commemorate their special occasions.

Whether celebrating the joining of two lives, the addition of a new life or even those gifts given just to make someone smile, Lee Michaels has always strived to maintain lasting client relationships built on goodwill, trust and exceptional service.

Visiting with clients that ďŹ rst came to us for their own engagement ring and are now returning with their children to make the same purchase is an honor for us.

Building those lasting relationships will always continue to be the primary focus at Lee Michaels.

With the onset of spring comes the renewal of life all around us. In keeping with this renewal, we have re-employed assets back into our business to create a agship appearance in all eight of our locations. We are investing in the quality and luxury of our stores to mirror the quality and luxury of the products we sell.

The Baton Rouge market received the beautiful addition of the Patek Philippe corner in our Corporate Boulevard location. Lafayette will soon begin construction on a new freestanding venue, and Jackson continues to thrive in its new location as well.

We would not have been able to accomplish this without the continued support of our friends. We thank you for making us your First Choice for those special memories in your life.

Best personal regards,

Lee Michael Berg CEO

BATON ROUGE 7560 CORPORATE BOULEVARD 225.926.4644 MALL OF LOUISIANA, 225.766.6000 NEW ORLEANS LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER, 504.832.0000 SHREVEPORT 6605 YOUREE DRIVE, 318.222.2929 LAFAYETTE ACADIANA MALL, 337.981.8071 JACKSON, MS RENAISSANCE AT COLONY PARK, 601.957.6100 SAN ANTONIO, TX NORTHSTAR MALL, 210.541.9575 THE SHOPS AT LA CANTERA, 210.699.9494 CEO LEE MICHAEL BERG CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER KENNETH S. GIKAS VICE PRESIDENT GREG JOHNSON

CONTENTS

VICE PRESIDENT & GENERAL MANAGER MALL OF LOUISIANA JOHNNY TATE CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER JANE HARRINGTON ADVERTISING MANAGER AMY GRAHAM BOARD OF DIRECTORS BRENDA BERG CHAD BERG RYAN BERG, MARKET PRESIDENT SCOTT BERG, MARKET PRESIDENT

FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter

CREATIVE DEPARTMENT AMANDA MAYO JAMES OSBOURNE

4 A Night to Remember at The Grammys

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

6 New Addition: Patek Philippe Corner

PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI

8 Events: Looking Back

WATCHES A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014

10 LM on the Go! 12 Chatter: Ask the Designers 21 Bridal: To Have and to Hold

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA

22 Belles & Beaus 28 The Estate Collection 30 Collecting: Haute History 34 Trends: Simply Modern 50 Perfect Gems 54 Food: Brooklyn’s Fine Fare

CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

14 From the Runways

PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE

GETTY 1 PASIEKA

26 Technology: Home Safe Home

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

WATCH SECTION 38 Watch Advisor 40 Spotlight: Hot Watches 42 Profile: Patek Philippe

60 Fashion: Here Comes the Sun

44 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics

64 Fitness: Spin Cycle

48 Wheels: Need for Speed 2

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

OYSTER PERPETUAL L ADY-DATEJUST

rolex

oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.

spotlight

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER MEM MEMB EM M MB GUCCI TIMEPIECES & JEWELRY LAUNCHES GRAMMIUM® TIMEPIECE TIM MEP PIEC CE FOR THE 56TH GRAMMY AWARDS®

L

ee and Brenda Berg had the rare and exciting opportunity to attend the 56th Grammy Awards on January 26, 2014 at the Staples Center opportun op te in Los Angeles the experience les as the e sspecial guests of Gucci cci Timepieces & Jewelr JJewelry. When asked about out th xperie e they had, d, Lee had this to say: “The experience ri ce was once in a lifeti lifetime and an amazing opportunity many great musicianss and p performances under definitely ea ortunity y to see that that man forma es all u er one roof, in one night. It was de ya night we will never forget.” h Recording R di Ac ramm Gucci began its partnership with The Academy, organizers of the world-renowned Grammy Awards, in 2010, launching a Grammy n. T ep artnership h as p i ic special-edition watch and jewelry collection.

The partnership has provided for a series of initiatives celebrating Gucci’s commitment to support the mu music e tthe he g grow row wth th o of yo community, to preserve its heritage and to fos foster growth young talents.

Gucci launched the Gucci GRAMMY® Special Edition watch with a dial made GRAMMIUM®, the very same material used to forge cial E dition IInterlocking nt de of GRAM e the iconic trophy Interlocking collection, which features a sleek and ico oph statuette in the shape of a gramophone—the Grammy Award®. The watch is a variantt of the Interlo modern take mode e on o the House’s GG interlocking motif. Available in two sizes (42 mm and 37 mm), m), the he watch comes with w a black polished and brushed PVD case, with Grammy dial made with GRAMMIUM. a snapped snappe caseback as y Awards® Awa ® logo and nd a yellow ye w sun-brushed sun- us G AMMIUM. The a Grammy is derived out of he lengthy process of creating creat Gra my Award Aw der d from a tradition thatt is hundreds dreds off years yea old. o The statuette is cast o GRAMMIUM—a gramophone statue that is presented to G GRAM MIUM— custom alloy, developed by John Billings, the craftsman who creates, by hand, nd, the e lustrous ust ous gol gold g g Grammy y recipients. rec

new addition

O Begin Your Own TRADITION

ur flagship location on Corporate Boulevard in Baton Rouge, La. expanded this past fall to include a Patek Philippe corner. It has beautiful Crema Marfil marble floors from Switzerland as well as wooden wall panels and cases made of bird’s eye maple and Indian rosewood.

The beautiful cases, which house the timepieces, are also accented with antique brass. All elements of the new sleek space including the furniture and artwork were shipped overseas from Switzerland. The Patek corner also contains a larger selection of these exquisite timepieces.

The unparalleled renown and prestige that Patek Philippe has acquired amongst connoisseurs is due not solely to the perfection of the watches, but to the resources of knowledge and skill contained in their workshops. This undisputed supremacy also stems from the consistency with which the company has applied its philosophy of excellence since its founding in 1839. That spirit is embodied in the values that have always represented the very essence of Patek Philippe, and will continue to do so for generations to come.

Come in today to view the new space and understand, as the president of Patek Philippe Thierry Stern says, ”The real value of each Patek watch lies in the emotion you will feel when you take it in your hands and know that you are about to begin your own tradition of excellence.”

events

Looking BACK

Guests at the Rolex DeepSea Challenge event

Steve Hodgins, Ryan Berg, Stewart Wicht, Lee Berg and Chad Berg

Grand Re-Opening in Jackson, Miss.

Mad Hatters Fashion Show & Hat Contest

Chad Berg and Scott Berg, Ivanka Trump and Ryan Berg

Scott and Leslie Berg, Alton and Allison Ashy

Kelley Olinde, Ippolita and Michael Olinde

Doctor Herodotus Pentas and Jonathan Truxillo at Omega watchmaker event

T

he past year was filled with exciting events both in store and around town. Lee Michaels was one of only a few retailers selected to host the Rolex DeepSea Challenge event. This event celebrated James Cameron’s record-setting deepest solo dive in the Pacific Ocean while wearing a highly advanced experimental diving watch, the Rolex DeepSea Challenge. A display celebrating this was set up in our Lakeside store for two weeks where patrons could visit and see the timepiece. We were also delighted to have personal appearances by two wonderful designers, Greek designer Konstantino Sioulas, and Italian designer Ippolita. A unique event took place where we partnered with Omega timepieces for watchmaker events held at Restaurant Revolution in New Orleans and at L’Auberge Casino in Baton Rouge. Guests were given the rare opportunity to disassemble and reassemble an Omega timepiece, being taught by official Omega watchmakers. All in all this past year was filled with exciting designer events as well as community events we were proud to be a part of.

Daryll and Tiffany Ellis

Colleen Thacker-Siemer and Konstantino Sioulas

Vanessa Lafluer, Damaris Landry, Edmund and Cathy Giering, Leslie and Scott Berg, and Eilleen Thompson at Junior League Event

social media

ON THE We know you are constantly on the go, and using every different kind of mobile device. We make it easy to stay in touch and informed through our website LMFJ.com and on our various social media sites. We don’t want you to miss out on anything— from the latest jewelry trends, to new merchandise and in-store events and more! All of our platforms are updated daily, and allow you to get the inside scoop wherever and whenever you want. Be sure to stay in touch through these outlets, especially around Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduation season and Christmas. We update our social platforms with great gift ideas for these special occasions and for any budget. So be sure to join us on your favorite platform today.

Stay connected with us at your desk, or on the go!

lmfj.com

facebook.com/leemichaelsjewelry

twitter.com/lmfinejewelry

pinterest.com/leemichaels

instagram.com/leemichaelsjewelry

1973

41 LEGENDARY YEARS BETWEEN LAND AND SEA

The Heritage Chrono Blue is saturated with the azur of the Mediterranean in summer. Tudor glides with ease over the surface of time with this new edition of its legendary chronograph 7169, fusing technical perfection, chic and glamour. Launched in 1973, it has measured magical instants on land and at sea to become the iconic legend it is today.

TUDOR HERITAGE CHRONO BLUE Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 150 m, 42 mm steel case.

Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.

速

chatter

Ask the

DESIGNERS We asked some of our favorite designers: what’s next on your bucket list?

Listen in and get to know the artists behind your most-loved jewelry.

IVANKA TRUMP

going to debut an exclusive limited-edition collection inspired by the horse. To me, the horse symbolizes par excellence of freedom and elegance. Actually, this is related with my second wish, to keep surprising myself and my collectors by keeping them young and glamorous.”

IPPOLITA

My next destination is Luang Prabang in Laos, one of the most mystical, magical and inspiring old villages in Asia. It will be the inspiration for my next collection.”

GUY BEDARIDA OF JOHN HARDY

ROBERTO COIN

I have been compiling pieces of my writing, photographs and experiences for some time now. 2014 is the year it’s all going to come together inside one cover. I have a publisher so the rest is down to me. If anyone who knows me can remember anything that involves me between 1989 and 2000, please send in your stories. No junk mail or time wasters please.”

STEPHEN WEBSTER

12

STEPHEN WEBSTER IMAGE COURTESY OF RANKIN. GUY BEDARIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY.

I love to travel, and one of my all-time favorite trips is to Chile.

I’ve been several times, but next time I go I want to try glacier skiing in Portillo.”

Read Tolstoy in Russian and Proust in French. Roll around in caviar with Javier Bardem. Make my own scented candle with Cire Trudon. Walk the Great For sure on my bucket list Wall of China. Travel there is the bright future for my brand. I am a creator around the world with and a dreamer, and I wish my future grandchildren. to always keep being able to Learn to paint from foresee my clientele’s taste and mood. This year we are Eric Fischl.”

from the

5

RUNWAYS

4

Lovely LADY 1

3

2 1. 14K white gold diamond bangle, $2,150. 2. 14K yellow gold diamond bangle, $2,150. 3. 18K rose gold, coral, opal and diamond ring, $4,500. 4. Mikimoto 18K yellow gold 7-6.5 mm pearl necklace, $3,280. 5. 18K white gold white South Sea pearl and diamond earrings, $5,075.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

Feminine air is always on trend.

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

from the

RUNWAYS

5

1

4

Nearly NUDE A rosy outlook on spring fashion.

2 1. Ippolita 18K yellow gold necklace with mother-of-pearl pendant surrounded by pavé diamonds, $1,995. 2. 18K white gold/rose gold, morganite and diamond bracelet, $12,950 3.

18K rose gold, pavé diamond multi-row drop earrings with leverbacks, $5,200. 4. 18K white gold, morganite and brown and white diamond ring, $5,950. 5. 14K white gold/yellow gold necklace with white and mocha pavé diamond floral pendant, $3,500.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

3

P OIS MOI COLLECTION

from the

RUNWAYS

5

Eventful

2

Statement jewels make it a night to remember.

4

3

1. 14K white gold, multi-colored sapphire and diamond bracelet, $3,425. 2. Jack Kelége platinum diamond ring, $18,500. 3. Jack Kelége platinum and 18K yellow gold, yellow and white diamond ring, $21,000. 4. Plevé 18K yellow gold earrings with multi-colored enhanced diamonds, $7,900. 5. 18K white gold diamond cluster necklace, $36,500.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

1

EVENING

FOREVER CAPTIVATING

BECAUSE A STAR DESERVES FOUR MORE. At the four-star Renaissance

®

Baton Rouge, you’ll discover a wedding venue as extraordinary as the day you are celebrating.

Elegant surroundings. Spacious ballrooms for up to 600 guests. Skilled, creative planners to ensure your event is a dream come true by making everything perfectly yours. Every flower. Every morsel.

Every song. Every moment. After all, we’ve designed it for the most important wedding ever… yours.

TO CONFIRM YOUR DREAM WEDDING CALL (225) 215-7000 7000 Bluebonnet Boulevard Baton Rouge, LA 70810 renaissancehotels.com

bridal Spanning four decades, Tacori engagement rings fuse classic elegance with modern inspiration. Unique to Tacori, you’ll notice its signature design element—the Crescent Silhouette—on virtually all Tacori engagement rings. Tacori originated the Crescent Silhouette within jewelry design, and this luxurious motif is a hallmark of Tacori. Tacori creates some of the world’s most highly regarded jewelry. Handcrafted in California, these remarkably detailed rings become the timeless symbols of connection that join individuals and generations.

To HAVE

&

To HOLD

Lasting perfection through fine design and intricate details.

Our Lee Michaels Belle Époque Collection is centered around a particular style drawn from an era in Paris when peace and prosperity allowed the arts to flourish.

Many masterpieces of literature, music, theater and visual arts gained recognition during this time. The literal meaning of Belle Époque is “beautiful era.”

Elegance, femininity, romance and tradition have all inspired this bridal collection that showcases intricate details. The romantic appeal of styles from this era, combined with an updated approach, reflects an individualistic spirit.

Tacori (from left to right) Platinum engagement ring setting with pavé bypass shank, $6,420. 18K white gold engagement ring setting with channel-set diamond shank $8,660.

Platinum engagement ring setting with pavé shank, $4,480. Belle Époque (top row, top to bottom) 14K white gold and paladium engagement ring setting accented by round diamonds and engraved shank, $1,675. 18K white gold engagement ring with round diamond surrounded by tapered square sapphires and pavé diamond shank, $5,250. 14K white gold and paladium engagement ring setting accented with round diamonds and engraved shank, $1,725. Belle Époque (bottom row, top to bottom) 14K white gold and paladium engagement ring setting accented with round diamonds and engraved shank, $2,200. 18K white gold Art Deco-style engagement ring with round diamond center stone surrounded by tapered squared sapphires, $6,125. (Setting pricing does not include center stone.)

Mr. & Mrs. Bradley Carville (Baileigh Lambert) June 21, 2013 • Baton Rouge, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Jacques Jakes (Wilneisha Harrison) December 14, 2013 • New Orleans, La.

belles &

BEAUS

Every Lee Michaels box has a story. Knowing we’ve played a part in the special story of these customers’ lives energizes us and continues to give us the passion to deliver extraordinary symbols of emotion and life’s experiences. Every day momentous occasions occur in our customers’ lives, and we are prepared to make the moment your Lee Michaels box is opened an unforgettable one.

Mr. & Mrs. Juan Pereira (Anna Glynn) November 16, 2013 • Baton Rouge, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Lyle Miller (Jacquelyn Burge) December 28, 2013 • Bossier City, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Michael Cammarosano (Elaine Skerrett) July 10, 2013 • Gulf Shores, Ala.

Mr. & Mrs. Justin Cowart (McKenzie Knippers) April 6, 2013 • Darrow, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Christopher Kurtz (Paige Nelson) January 17, 2014 • New Orleans, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Gregory Buchanan (Ashla Haack) November 30, 2013 • Baton Rouge, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Robert Swayze III (Allison Daigneault) June 22, 2013 • Houma, La.

Mr. & Mrs. Daniel Pickens (Jacqueline Calderon) September 27, 2013 • Boerne, Texas

Mr. & Mrs. Eric Beam (Melissa Magouirk) September 28, 2013 • Las Vegas, Nev.

technology

HOME SAFE HOME The best new ways to protect your valuables.

ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY New home security systems and jewelry storage options provide the latest high-tech innovations without being eyesores.

even view ourselves as a security company any longer," says Harkins. "We consider ourselves a connected home organization. Ten years ago, the protection industry was about the technician installing the system. Now it's about the consumer. We want the product to look really nice and elegant, and for the consumer to want to use it on a daily basis."

The same holds true for safes, which are also becoming increasingly high-tech and customizable, while not being a design eyesore. Casoro Jewelry Safes builds completely customizable safes and vaults offering a variety of exterior colors and interior fine wood drawers that give the feel of an elegant jewelry cabinet. Features like built-in watch winders, dehumidifiers or vertical space for guns or other collectibles can be easily added. Meanwhile, Cannon Safe offers Smart Safes with electronic-mechanical protection technology to guard against electromagnetic pulses and surges, which can disarm electrical locks. Cannon's safes can also feature internal power stations for dehumidifiers and chargers, along with USB ports and an RJ45 Ethernet media connection.

MORE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

■ The first, best security system is to not make your home a target in the first place: Avoid giving away exact

travel plans on social media sites, use proper external and internal lighting, and make sure doors and windows are secured while you’re away.

■ If you store passwords and combinations on your computer (you shouldn’t), label the file with a random title like “Best Shopping Malls” instead of “Important Passwords.”

■ Don't store passports and insurance papers in the same (probably prominent) safe your jewelry and watches are kept in. Consider a hidden floor safe in an obscure location.

■ For high-value protection, consider hiring an independent security consultant to review existing security measures and recommend upgrades.

■ Lock access to your mobile devices with a random password.

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TOP AND CENTER RIGHT IMAGES COURTESY OF HONEYWELL SECURITY PRODUCTS. CENTER LEFT AND BOTTOM IMAGES COURTESY OF CASORO MAXIMUM SECURITY SAFES.

I

t's not just on TV and in the movies: crime is becoming increasingly high-tech.

Whether the issue is identity theft or a sophisticated jewelry thief employing camouflaged miniature cameras and computers for long-term surveillance, it may be time to upgrade your own home security systems.

"The market's changed a lot in the past three to four years," says Scott Harkins, president of Honeywell Security Products. "It's way more than traditional security measures—doors, windows, smoke detectors." Honeywell recently integrated its Total Connect Remote Services system with its Tuxedo Touch touchpad controller, for a (residential or commercial) system that allows the user to customize operations from a touchpad, or one's smartphone, tablet or laptop. Multiple users and configurations can be assigned, so kids, visitors and service staff can have access to meet their needs. Separate buildings within the wireless automation area (workshops, guest cottages) get their own security systems, and you can add a beach house or condo's system to the same Total Connect app. You can secure all doors and windows at once wherever you are, schedule lighting to turn on or off, adjust temperatures as needed, and the app will instantly email you if anything doesn't seem right. Motion detectors placed inside valuables on display will notify you if they're moved, and cameras at doors or other security points can instantly email you video of what triggered them.

From blinds to sprinklers to electronics, anything that can be automated—like the popular Nest Learning Thermostat—can be connected to Honeywell's system.

Perhaps the most intriguing part of this integration of security with other aspects of your lifestyle is the focus on consumer appeal and ease-of-use. "We don't

Polo Player 24" x 19 他" Limited edition of 3,000 pieces Base Included

the estate collection

1

2

3

Antique Design

MODERN PERSPECTIVE Taking a look at exquisite, one-of-a-kind pieces.

4

5

1. Gold-ďŹ lled Estate garnet teardrop earrings, $2,400. 2. 18K yellow gold Estate ruby and pearl earrings, $1,750. 3. 18K yellow gold Victorian enamel and diamond oral earrings, $9,500.

4. 18K yellow gold Estate rhodolite earrings, $2,900. 5. 15K yellow gold Victorian pearl and diamond locket, $6,400.

collecting

Haute HISTORY

Estate jewelry is a present that comes with a past.

KARYN D. COLLINS

T

he term “estate jewelry” often conjures up visions of million-dollar baubles that once belonged to royalty, heiresses and Hollywood stars. But for many jewelers, a more typical estate jewelry story is like the one of a young woman who brought in her grandmother’s ring to Reis-Nichols Jewelers in Indianapolis.

“The girl’s mother had put it in a drawer because she never wore it, and the girl brought it in to sell as scrap gold. Well, it was Bulgari—not an antique, but still a beautiful piece. So I made her an offer accordingly,” says Jon Bennett, Reis-Nichols’ lead estate buyer. Sounds like a nice surprise!

In the fine jewelry industry, estate jewelry is

an umbrella term for any pre-owned jewelry from another era. The category includes antique jewelry, which by definition is nearly 100 years old or more.

“I like to use the term ‘pre-loved’ when I describe estate jewelry,” says Holly A. Blenden, a gemologist with Hamilton Jewelers in New Jersey. “It doesn’t reflect any specific time period or even a special manufacturer. It doesn’t necessarily have to be from an actual estate sale or bequeathed in a will. It just means it’s a piece of jewelry that someone has loved.”

How jewelers handle the estate segment of their business differs greatly from store to store. Some, for example, have a dedicated person or team that purchases items from

30

I like to use the term ‘pre-loved’ when I describe estate jewelry.

It doesn’t necessarily have to be from an actual estate sale or left in a will. It just means it’s a piece of jewelry that someone has loved.”

HOLLY A. BLENDEN GEMOLOGIST, HAMILTON JEWELERS

31

auctions, estate sales and antique jewelry dealers. Other stores feature, for the most part, items that customers have brought in for resale.

How the items are featured and sold (including how large of a percentage estate jewelry accounts for in the overall product mix) also varies by store. The Diamond Cellar offers estate jewelry online as well as at one of its two Ohio stores, but the items at its Dublin location aren’t on display and are only brought out on request. Lux Bond & Green rotates its estate jewelry collection among its eight locations in Connecticut and Massachusetts. And at Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, three of its six locations offer estate jewelry. The Baton Rouge, La. store actually has a separate room devoted entirely to estate and antique jewelry. “I think it gives the collection a certain sophistication. It’s a beautiful room,” says Katheryne C. Mauldin, manager of antique and estate jewelry.

Tapper’s in Michigan has an especially unique policy: it will, as a matter of courtesy, accept any item brought in to them, reveals Leora Tapper, who handles estate jewelry purchasing for the retailer. “We’re proud to offer this service,” says Tapper. “We have a long history and have built a great [estate jewelry] business, so we won’t turn our customers away, no matter what the piece is.” y contrast, London Jewelers focuses exclusively on vintage Chanel jewelry that it purchases through a dealer. The inventory is spread among the company’s website and its five locations in the Hamptons and suburbs of New York City. Customers can order from London Jewelers’ website, or request that items be sent to a nearby store to be viewed in person.

For stores that offer a mix of pieces purchased from dealers and brought in by customers, it can be tricky to find the right balance between what appeals to a jeweler’s eye and what will sell.

“I look for jewelry that has a provenance and a story. My goal is to bring in pieces that I can potentially resell,” says Bennett at Reis-Nichols.

“I also look for brand names with a heritage, since they give some value above and beyond the style of the item.

“Customers often want jewelry that comes from a certain era: for some collectors it’s Art Deco, others the Edwardian period. And then you have people who just want to buy something unique, that’s of good value and maybe costs less than what they would pay for a brand-new version.”

But sometimes a jeweler can only follow his instincts, taking a shot in the dark at what he thinks will appeal to customers.

“I have a few pieces still in our case today and I can’t understand why they haven’t sold,” John Green of Lux Bond & Green confides. “One in particular we’ve had for seven years, but no one has bought it. I think it’s beautiful and I would probably buy it again,” he says. “Then there have been things I liked but didn’t think were as unique, and they were purchased right away.

“What’s the saying? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”

Perhaps that special treasure is waiting just for you.

B

Add the next chapter to your love story.

Apply today for Lee Michaels

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trends

A

s the warm-weather seasons begin, jewelry and fashion have both entered into a nouveau modern era. In two words: sleek and uncomplicated. Still glamorous?

Definitely—but more panache with purity, if you will. When models strutted down the spring/summer runways wearing peek-a-boo sheers and cut-out mesh (and even see-through skirts) they looked sensual, but seldom overly sexy. “In fashion, there’s a distinct modernization going on, as designers are beginning to rethink luxury,” explains David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “It’s super-simplicity—kind of no-fashion fashion. Yet there’s a lot of cutting-edge creativity. For example, clean-cut sharp angles—what I’m calling geometrickery!”

What does this mean in terms of jewelry accessorizing? “It’s the minimalist ’90s back in fashion. But not the stark minimal ’90s, when everything was spare—as in no accessories and no jewelry,” explains Vicente Agor, president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group. “This time around, sleek apparel is the backdrop for jewelry.

That’s key to what makes it now—completely 2014,” he says.

“The clean lines of the clothes actually let the jewelry stand out.

If you wear something exactly as it was styled in its original decade, then it’s a costume! So it’s very important to pair the new austere-shaded, streamlined clothes with jewelry. Otherwise, you’ll look out-of-date—very yesterday.”

“and jewelry looks very fresh when it’s large in scale.”

Nonetheless, says Wolfe, “Because there are many important silhouettes going on simultaneously this season, sometimes dramatic designs are needed while, at other times, what you wear may call for smaller, slimmer items of jewelry worn together for an overall uber effect.”

FASHION’S METALLICS, JEWELRY’S METALS Still, whether the jewels you wear this spring and summer are singularly super-sized or merely appear large when layered, the precious metal itself is a key consideration. To some degree, all the high-gloss futuristic fabrics are a factor.

“We’re currently experiencing a fascination with unnatural-looking textiles. Metallic is being worn year-round, not just during the holiday period,” Wolfe says. “All shades of metallic—blue, pink, green—a rich rainbow. But my favorites are the darker muted gold metallics; I call them golden glamour. They’re very complementary to the new jewelry we’re seeing in yellow, rose and darkened rhodium-plated gold, and these mix fabulously with white gold and sterling silver that’s oxidized to look gray or black.”

SIMPLY MODERN

COLORS . . .

AND NON-COLORS

Speaking of black, like last year, it’s the non-color that’s still going strong.

LIVING LARGE “Lots of sparkling white, too,” The first thing to remember when Wolfe reminds us. “Remember, wearing the season’s refined, white is now worn year-round. I unfussy clothes is to think big: especially like all the black-andLORRAINE DEPASQUE jewelry with impact is a megawhite clothes because it’s a color trend. And you can do that either combo that gives you a lot of by wearing large statement freedom with jewelry and other pieces or by layering several for a accessories. Beyond black and strong jewelry look. With luxury brands, top-trending categories include white, color runs the gamut, from bold and bright to darks to mellow yellow, knuckle rings and cocktail rings, power pendants and lengthy necklaces, neutral, and nude. And I love that very sophisticated combination of navy long dangle earrings—especially triple-stone drops—and slim bracelets and black, which many major fashion houses have given us. Although this worn in multiples—three minimum, but mostly five—stacked up the arm.

Ivanka Trump Metropolis collection layering necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds “Geometric and sculptural pieces are very important now,” notes Agor,

Jewelry’s new sophisticated simplicity.

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year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium, and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter. And more monochromatic schemes of mid-tone blues, too.”

F

ine jewelry has, in fact, led the way when it comes to blues, says lapidary artist and veteran gem dealer Bill Gangi, who sells high-quality colored stones to many leading names in luxury artisanal jewelry. “It’s the number-one gem color every year,” he says. But in the 2014 Spectrum Awards (the annual premier competition for colored gemstone jewelry design sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association), there were notably more indigo, azure and cobalt-colored jewelry entries than in the 2013 contest. Tanzanite, blue sapphire, lapis-lazuli and aquamarine were hard-to-miss standouts—way more popular than in the previous year. You definitely want your jeweler to show you some new designs that highlight any (or all!) of those blue beauties. Other in-vogue blues are iolite, black opal, blue moonstone, labradorite, turquoise, blue chalcedony, blue topaz and blue zircon.

“A great color combination is blue with purple,” Wolfe recommends. “In fashion, purple’s been hot for the past four seasons.” Given that the Pantone Color Institute named Radiant Orchid as its 2014 Color of the Year, you can bet that purple passion will continue to heat up throughout the year. “It’s a modern and surprisingly versatile shade,” says Pantone’s executive DAVID WOLFE director, Leatrice Eiseman. (Take note: There’s that word THE DONEGER GROUP modern again!) Eiseman adds that Radiant Orchid is “a captivating, magical, enigmatic purple, inspiring confidence and emanating great joy, love and health. And it encourages expanded creativity and originality.” Looking at the breadth of imaginative new collections from goldsmiths inspired by a spectrum of violet, lavender and eggplant shaded stones—amethyst, alexandrite, sugilite, purple sapphire, kunzite, tourmaline, agate, quartz and lavender spinel—we can’t help but agree!

On a final note, it’s hardly coincidental that the Pantone Color of the Year is named after a beautiful, delicate flower. Remember, we’re enjoying an uncluttered, easy-to understand style era right now, one that’s often characterized by natural influences as well as geometrics.

Think about it: Both nature and geometry are minimalist at their core.

Going forward, well beyond 2014, forecasters are predicting that organic-themed collections will continue to grow, as women (like us!) are captivated by the perfection of the imperfection of asymmetric gemstones. Raw diamonds, baroque pearls, sliced precious and semiprecious color. . . each gem is one-of-a-kind from nature—and completely sophisticated in its simplicity!

This year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter.’’

From top: Penny Preville earrings in 18K yellow gold with moonstone cabochons and large organic aquamarine bottom drops Ivanka Trump Patras collection blue sapphire ring in 18K white gold with white diamond surround Stephen Webster hoop earrings in 18K rose gold and white diamonds Roberto Coin Haute Couture collection cluster ring in 18K white gold with iolite, blue sapphire and white diamonds Roberto Coin trio of single-row bracelets from the Poi Moi collection, in highpolished 18K rose, white and yellow gold

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C A R B O N G R A F I T E

“passion is our excellence�

Limited Edition of 930 fountain pens and 930 rollerball pens 18 Chrome Tubular Smartouch nib

WATCHES GETTY 1 PASIEKA

A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014

WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly.

Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.

How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?

E

ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more.

Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble.

Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately.

Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model.

A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.

What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches?

Is one better than the other?

A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time.

(Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and

balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches.

Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can

keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes.

Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard.

BY JACK FORSTER

A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.

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FOR ME.

©2014 EBEL – REF 1216097

Onde from EBEL. Steel, 18K rose gold & diamonds.

SPOTLIGHT by Roberta Naas

HOT WATCHES Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design. Key men’s looks for the season include stealth black chronographs to time his workouts.

DAVID YURMAN Classic GMT World Time Iconic American designer David Yurman continues to create top-of-the-line Swiss-made watches. Among his more coveted pieces is the very functional yet refined Classic GMT World Time watch. Created in a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with integrated signature cable design, the watch houses a topquality Swiss automatic ETA Movement with 42 hours of power reserve. It offers hour, minute and seconds timing, as well as a dual time-zone function.

The sapphire crystal and caseback both feature two-sided anti-reflective coating for easy readability, and to allow for viewing of the movement. An inner rotating bezel on the watch indicates top world cities, and there is a printed 24-hour GMT track for use in finding time in different zones. The watch is water resistant to 100 feet.

PANERAI PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso Those who love the iconic brand will be thrilled with the Officine Panerai PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso. The bold 47 mm, 18-karat rose gold case houses the 162-part hand-wound mechanical Panerai P. 3000 caliber—created entirely in house by Panerai. The 21-jeweled movement features an Incabloc anti-shock device for all your rugged sports, and offers three days of power reserve via two barrels. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso recalls the brand’s rich history with the navy, and its brown dial and luminous numerals and markers are vintage inspired. The sapphire crystal is extra thick and features an anti-reflective coating. The caseback is a sapphire crystal as well, for viewing the superb movement. While classically alluring, the elegant watch is also water resistant to 50 meters.

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MONTBLANC STARWALKER ULTIMATE CARBON

For the first time ever our craftsmen set out to manufacture a StarWalker Collection from carbon. Created from a single sleeve of carbon fibre, the cap and barrel show an intriguing contrast with the bright elegance of the polished ruthenium-plated fittings. Floating Montblanc emblem in transparent cap top. Handcrafted ruthenium-plated 585 gold nib.

PROFILE by Adam Gebhardt

GENEVA’S CROWN JEWEL To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition.

P

atek Philippe is Geneva’s oldest independent family-owned watch manufacturer, founded in 1839. Faithful to the most noble artisanal techniques, its watchmakers and craftsmen perpetuate the timehonored traditions that distinguish the fine art of watchmaking.

The company’s independence from corporate ownership enables the brand to go its own way and control its own destiny while pursuing a longterm vision. It also benefits from total creative freedom, developing and manufacturing its movements in house according to its own quality criteria, and producing only watches that reflect its quest for the exceptional.

The timepieces outlive passing fashions without ever losing their appeal or relevance. Patek Philippe has established its own understated, timeless style: a harmonious combination of personality and discretion, elegance and an aristocratic touch. The style has inspired models with simple, strong, refined lines. Now, as always, subtle modifications enable the watches to

evolve while retaining all their characteristic charm.

Representing tradition at its most dynamic, Patek Philippe constantly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking through its innovations. It has confirmed its pioneering role in the industry by filing more than 80 patents, including 20 of major importance to the history of horology.

Patek Philippe has always conceived its watches as exclusive creations. More than 200 models are in regular production, each in small series of between 10 and several hundred, and fitted with a vast array of in-house movements. From design to mechanism, they earn their special place in the hearts of enthusiasts the world over. The rigorous standards applied to every step of the development process and in the long months of crafting and finishing make each Patek Philippe a precious, unique creation coveted by the connoisseur.

A Patek Philippe commands a high price and will fully retain or even increase in value. Many of the models achieve cult status and regularly fetch Patek Philippe Twenty-4 record-setting sums at auction. Their stainless steel ladies watch with solid reputation amongst collectors— 36 diamonds, blue sunburst and the great sentimental value that a dial and diamond hour markers Patek Philippe usually acquires in the eyes of its owner—make each one a treasured asset.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition that has been handed down with care and will continue to inspire remarkable creations. It is your entry into the world where each generation is dedicated to perpetuating a unique heritage.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is also to welcome into your own family a possession designed to last for successive generations, signifying the start of your own tradition.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Annual Calendar watch featuring watch featuring date, day and date, day and month,month, moonmoon phase and phase and power reserve power reserve indicator, indicator $44,400

T IVO _.indd P0 44

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SEREIN 16 DIAMOND SEREIN 16 DIAMOND TWO-TONE

WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster

HOOKED ON CLASSICS

Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.

I

n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past.

Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.)

A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved

technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory.

The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts.

Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly

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IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez

WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch.

For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.

One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who

What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time.

Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point).

For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.

V

never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time).

As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise.

Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made.

Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.

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Sustenpass Switzerland

MAVERICK 3-year warranty I Swiss Made I 43 mm I Water resistant to 100 meters

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE

WHEELS by David A. Rose

Taking a cue from its parent company, Tudor enters the world of motor sports sponsorship.

NEED FOR SPEED

Tudor Grantour Chrono Fly-Back

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RACING IMAGE BY STEPHAN COOPER

A

nyone who knows anything about motor sports will know and Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series and the American Le Mans Series. The appreciate the contribution Rolex has made over the years. Rolex is two had been competing for fans, sponsors, teams and drivers since 1999, but the official timepiece at the Sebring International Raceway and the as a single series they have now created one of the most exciting sports car Mobil 1 Twelve Hours of Sebring, official timepiece at The 24 Hours of Le races in the world.

Mans, and title sponsor of the annual Rolex 24 at Daytona. And in 2013, the “For years Tudor has been inspired by motor sports,” says brand brand made history when it became the global partner and official timepiece manager Russell Kelly. “This new partnership allows us to elevate our of Formula 1, the pinnacle of motor sports. commitment to sports car racing. This is the perfect alignment between Rolex also made headlines last year for another reason: the partners dedicated to performance and precision.” announcement that it would re-launch its storied Tudor brand in the U.S., International sports car racing brings together some of the most and promote it as the title partner for the new Tudor United SportsCar sophisticated machinery in existence with the best drivers in the world.

Championship. Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, Unlike other motor sports races, which run for a registered the name “The Tudor” in 1926 to honor specific number of miles or laps, sports car series are 2014 TUDOR the Tudor period in England. He established run for three, six, 12 and 24 hours. Each car must UNITED SPORTSCAR Montres Tudor SA in 1946 with the idea of offering utilize a minimum of two drivers for the shorter CHAMPIONSHIP the quality of Rolex timepieces at a lower price. races, and can use up to five drivers per car for 24UPCOMING RACE SCHEDULE Today, though Tudor is part of the Rolex Group, it is hour events. They race in all weather conditions and May 4 Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca operated separately and continues to uphold its the pace remains intense throughout the entire May 31 Detroit Belle Isle philosophy of affordable luxury. To celebrate its event. With the merger of the two series for 2014, June 7 Kansas Speedway colorful history, Tudor has introduced the Heritage there is no doubt that the Tudor United SportsCar June 29 Watkins Glen International Collection, featuring updated versions of iconic Championship will present race fans in North July 13 Canadian Tire Motorsports Park pieces like the Tudor Heritage Chrono and the America with the most exciting racing they’ve ever July 25 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Tudor Heritage Advisor. seen, while allowing watch lovers to become August 10 Road America The Tudor United SportsCar Championship was reacquainted with the luxury, quality and August 24 Virginia International Raceway formed by the merging of two rival U.S. events: the sophistication of the Tudor brand.

PERFECTGEMS

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

LÉGENDAIRE NICE

From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.

MICHAEL RUDDIN

DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER

When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.”

The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.

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A HORSE OF COURSE

Just 40 miles from Washington D.C. in Middleburg, Va., the Salamander Resort & Spa is set on 340 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It features luxurious suites, spa, cooking studio and wine bar, but it’s the great outdoors that beckons most visitors. In the Culinary Garden the chef teaches secrets of organic farming, and guests can pick herbs and produce for a cooking class or dine under the garden trellis. There are hiking and biking paths, tennis courts and croquet. Naturally, since the resort is surrounded by Virginia’s famed riding country, horses are a mane attraction (the resort has nine horses and two ponies, or you can bring your own). The Equestrian Program at Salamander includes a practice ring, instructional classes, and riding trails through woods and fields.

WRAPPING UP THE SEASON

ROBERT GODWIN

Before beginning her career as a couturiere, Jackie Rogers was a model for Coco Chanel and learned much of her craft, style and technique from the legendary designer. She’s created clothes for some of the most famous women in the world, including Julianne Moore, Condaleeza Rice, Roberta Flack, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek and Courtney Love. For this spring and summer Rogers suggests a wrap-tie blouse, which she makes to order in 100 different colors (she particularly likes it in shocking pink). “A tie blouse can go over anything and make everything look new and fresh again,” she explains. (And think of the jewelry options!)

STRAVINSKY IN SANTA FE

Every summer The Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico presents repertory and contemporary performances on a high mesa overlooking two mountain ranges, a setting unmatched anywhere in the world. This summer, the program includes Carmen, Fidelio, the American premiere of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, and a special salute to one of the early supporters of this unique company. In 1957 Igor Stravinsky was invited for the first season. Intrigued by the innovative organization, the celebrated composer returned several times to direct and conduct his own operas. In 2014, Santa Fe pays tribute to Stravinsky with a performance of Le Rossignol, marking the 100th anniversary of the opera’s premiere in Paris. The nightingale doesn’t only sing in Berkeley Square.

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BRENT HERRIG

Saul Bolton's Atlantic Black Bass with Braised Fennel, Sweet Pea Puree and Saffron Chamomile Sauce

BRENT HERRIG

food

CHEF SAUL BOLTON Saul, The Vanderbilt, Red Gravy Saul just reopened in a very exciting new location: the architecturally majestic Brooklyn Museum. How did the site change come about?

It was serendipitous. After 14 years at our Smith Street place and wanting to redo and rehab Saul, we saw this as a great opportunity to be part of an iconic institution. We were able to keep everybody from the old Saul and just continue on in the new location—in a bigger space. To have that kind of continuity in your kitchen and in the front of the house is a gift.

Manhattan’s Union Square Greenmarket is a destination for chefs as well as residents and tourists.

Which markets in Brooklyn should people check out?

We go to Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. It’s a badass farmer’s market. Cadman Plaza in Downtown Brooklyn is Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The Brooklyn Heights farmer’s market takes

FINE FARE

Discover a few Brooklyn chefs crafting delectable dishes in the borough no longer considered off-thebeaten-path. SHIRA LEVINE

care of the more specialty, esoteric stuff, like fresh lima beans and shishito peppers. The best fish purveyor in New York is also in Brooklyn. And we have great cheese purveyors here, like Saxelby in Red Hook. My favorite is Stinky in Cobble Hill.

What do you make of all the attention Brooklyn has been getting?

I’m really proud of where I live and I love to share it. I can cook foie gras in Brooklyn just as well as I can anywhere in Manhattan, and now people realize it.

You’re the man behind Brooklyn Bangers, which has become quite a successful enterprise.

T

hose who plan their travels around the gastronomic demands of the stomach (or rather, the palate) should point their appetites toward the newly haute Brooklyn food scene. No longer the borough where your grandfather played stickball, post-industrial Brooklyn is ripe with multi-million dollar urban mansion conversions and shiny glass skyscrapers. Even the most exclusive Manhattanites now salivate at the locally sourced, sustainably farmed charm of the varied dining options. People from Sweden to Singapore are dropping the phrase très Brooklyn when describing things ultra cool, and they’re chomping at the bit to feast on Brooklyn’s fare.

While the borough has long had its culinary attractions—The River Café, Peter Luger’s, Junior’s— a new wave of chefs has recently arrived to elevate the epicurean landscape. Like the influx of locals trading in Manhattan zip codes for new Brooklyn digs, chefs are seeking more space, cheaper rent, and a less frenetic lifestyle that allows them to tinker with recipes and cultivate their own culinary visions.

From back-to-basics dishes at cozy-chic restaurants, to Michelin-starred, fancy fine dining rivaling the best in the world, Brooklyn’s nouveau cuisine is giving Gotham’s more than 10,000 restaurants a run for their money. The small-village vibe of neighborhoods like Park Slope, Boerum Hill and Carroll Gardens provides a welcoming atmosphere that’s utterly un-Manhattan, yet just across the river.

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We wanted to do an American gastropub where we were making awesome sausages and charcuterie. It morphed into sausage-making equipment in the basement of The Vanderbilt. We started to sell them at the Brooklyn Flea, where some people wanted to buy them wholesale to serve at beer gardens and specialty stores. The Barclays Center approached us and we were like, “What the hell? Why not sell them at a basketball arena?” Next year we’ll be in Citi Field, MetLife Stadium and the Prudential Center, and we’ll be carried by [grocery delivery service] Fresh Direct.

What are your favorite restaurants in Brooklyn?

I love the tripe tacos at Tacos Matamoros in Sunset Park. I eat often at Al di La: great Italian in Park Slope.

I also love Tanoreen’s Lebanese food in Bay Ridge.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53

ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1

Grade CutExcellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

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CHEF PAUL LIEBRANDT The Elm at King & Grove Hotel Williamsburg and be a part of the changes here. It’s certainly an area everyone is flocking to, so it’s exciting to be a part of that momentum. This isn’t the Williamsburg of a decade ago.

But traditionally you haven’t followed trends.

I’m not a trendy person. I always have my own voice. I was in kitchens since I was 15 and that’s how I was trained. You have to be true to yourself. I came here for the project, not to be a pioneer or whatever. That isn’t me. I want to reach

EVAN SUNG

the clientele I would have never reached with Corton. The Elm is sophisticated casual. It has elements of fine dining, but I don’t say it’s fine dining. This is in Williamsburg, but this project is not about being on trend.

CHEF ZAHRA TONGORRA Brucie

It was a big deal coming here from Manhattan. Your

Will you work with The Elm to bring another Michelin star

success there and your culinary background in London and

to Brooklyn?

Paris make you a bit different than other chefs that have

I’m not thinking about Michelin stars. I’m focused on giving

crossed the East River.

customers a different view of what I’ve been doing and

What does it mean to be a chef in

I think it was a natural progression. To be part of an

what they’ve already been getting in Brooklyn.

Brooklyn?

exciting, youthful and creative area is a risk, but it is one

Since you’re still exploring, what is your favorite place to

It is profoundly exciting. Being a chef and

that makes sense. For me, this is a nice project that is

eat in Brooklyn so far?

also the sole owner, your emotions span

approachable and fun. It’s exciting to be here in

I love Roberta’s in Bushwick.

the spectrum from exhaustion to elation, heart warmth to heartbreak. Now more than ever there is a lot of pressure to be

Lisa Giffen's Duck Breast with Chanterelles, Beets and Cherries

innovative and relevant amongst such amazing talent throughout the borough.

Some days it feels surreal that anyone knows my name or eats at my restaurant, and other days I feel really on top of my game and like I really belong where I am.

The word “trendy” is often used when describing Brooklyn cuisine. How do you feel about that?

Honestly, I love seeing trends, but Brooklyn as a place to eat is not a trend.

It’s awesome when a chef starts using an

CHEF LISA GIFFEN Maison Premiere

ingredient heavily and then it becomes a thing. I love seeing how it then spreads from hood to hood, and how they each

Tell us how your family heritage has

worked for mostly French chefs or chefs

blasted for not being a certain way.

influenced you as a chef.

who learned from French chefs, and

Could Brooklyn ultimately steal

make that “fad” ingredient their own by

I was born in Korea, but I was adopted

I love the discipline and dedication it

Manhattan’s culinary thunder?

using it differently. There’s a friendly

and grew up in Germany. My culinary

takes to learn this cuisine. Many of the

Manhattan will never fail to be what it

competitive spirit here in Brooklyn, and

heritage comes from my parents. My

techniques have been used for hundreds

is, this great Mecca of food, culture,

that’s what has driven the greatness of

dad is from the Midwest, and my mom

of years, which I find pretty amazing;

luxury and innovation. Brooklyn,

the Brooklyn food scene today.

is from northern California. They come

they withstand the test of time.

however, is the place to be all of that,

There is an obsession right now with

from agriculture backgrounds, so a

How would you describe Brooklyn’s

but on your own terms.

food scene to those who haven’t

What is one of your favorite Brooklyn

Brooklyn-born gourmet food items.

kitchen rich with vegetables and meats are part of my heritage. My

experienced it?

restaurants?

family loves food.

Brooklyn is like Manhattan’s rebellious

I enjoy St. Anselm in Williamsburg.

Maison Premiere is distinctly French,

sibling: raised the same, but doing it

They have such great affordable meats

and your past work under famed

their own way. Most of the chefs who

and some wonderful seasonal sides.

chefs like Alain Ducasse, Dan Barber

have settled into Brooklyn worked in

Why do you think there are so few

we are awfully lucky to have access to

and Ed Brown was also French

Manhattan for many years, so we all

notable women chefs?

natural foods and exciting foods on the

influenced. What is it about French

have a sense of what the highest

It’s not necessarily that there are

regular. Brooklyn is a community that

cuisine that inspires you?

standard is. In Brooklyn you retain

so few women chefs. It’s more, “Why

supports the ritual of food. I love moving

I’ve been classically French trained, so

those standards, but you can put your

are women chefs so unrecognized?”

back to the very basic idea of eating as

it’s something I know well. I have

own spin on it. In Brooklyn you aren’t

It’s 2014!

we were always intended to.

56

It’s very cool when you can sustain doing these specialty things. I like when people do one thing really well. I hear people saying how ridiculous kale is, but

MAN UP.

No one needs to tie your ties, mix your drinks, or close your deals.

You know how to handle yourself.

And everything about you speaks to that.

Show the world what you’ve got . . . and wear it well.

fashion

Here Comes the Sun Hot trends in sunglasses for 2014.

ELISE DIAMANTINI

The flowers are blooming and the days are getting longer. Wake up your wardrobe with a new pair of stylish sunglasses.

RETRO REVIVAL The ’70s have recently been a major fashion influence, and eyewear this season is also taking a nod from the decade. Says Fashion Snoops’ Lindsay Alt, “There is a very interesting ’70s influence happening right now; I love the Fear and Loathing look that we’ve seen on runways. I think people always fantasize about the late’60s and early-’70s, so trends from those times are often adopted quickly.”

MIXED MATERIALS Just as in women’s apparel and jewelry, mixing materials is a hot trend in designer eyewear. As Vision Monday magazine’s Deirdre Carroll predicts, all sorts of combinations—acetate fronts paired with metal temples or wood fronts paired with acetate temples, for example—will be strong styles for spring.

THE EMBELLISHED EYE

MIRROR MIRROR While some may see mirrored lenses and think “cop glasses,” this trend is taking the fashion world by storm. Carroll elaborates: “Flash and mirror coatings on lenses, usually seen on sport performance pieces, are now being paired with more fashionable acetate styles and feel especially fresh. Monochromatic frame and flash mirror lens pairings are also on the rise, i.e. a green frame with green lenses.”

SIZE MATTERS Oversized glasses are a tried-and-true trend that isn’t disappearing anytime soon.

However, as an update this spring, designers are introducing lighter-weight frames so glasses won’t weigh you down. “While oversized sunglasses and deeper optical frames are still popular,” says Carroll, “they can also be heavy on the face.

Designers are using more lightweight materials, like flat-sheet stainless steel and titanium, or carving the acetate more delicately, to make glasses more comfortable and wearable.”

60

FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF RAEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, ANN-KARIN KARLSSON, JIMMY CHOO, BALENCIAGA

Have a little fun with your eyewear. Designers are enhancing glasses by adding quirky ornaments to some of this season’s frames. Or you can take a plain pair and DIY! “We’re seeing everything from cheetahs to rosebuds being placed right on top of the sunglasses, says Alt. “It’s something you would expect the younger generation to pick up, but everyone is going crazy for it. You never know what people will take to; that is what makes it so fun.”

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Our past performances have included some greats like these:

John Pizzarelli

Poncho Sanchez

Patti Austin

Gregory Porter

Branford Marsalis

Check back with us soon to see who will be here for the 2014-2015 season!

WWW.ARTSBR.ORG proudy supported by

THE RIVER CITY JAZZ MASTERS SERIES WAS CO-FOUNDED BY DEREK E. GORDON AND THE RIVER CITY JAZZ COALITION Members of the River City Jazz Coalition include: Verge and Cheri Ausberry, C.J. Blache and Sherri McConnell, Maria and Brian Despinasse II, Leo and Gwendolyn Hamilton, Tim and Stacia Hardy, Darrell Hunt, Dr. Antoine Keller and Allison Chauvin, Cornelius and Karen Lewis, Drs. Jamel and Nicolette Martin, Ronald and Belinda Mason, John and Virginia Noland Fund, Albert and Roberta Sam, Josef Sternberg Memorial Fund presented by

The Norman Silverman Bridal Collection

The Stimulus

The Response

fitness

SpinCYCLE

Indoor cycling has become the latest craze. ELISE DIAMANTINI Soul Cycle Locations: 25 with 15 openings planned this year, including its first international location At Soul Cycle riders can expect a “cardio dance party.” As instructor Marvin Foster explains, “Soul Cycle is a full-body workout that requires core strength, rhythm and coordination of the upper and lower body. Each class consists of interval jumps out of the saddle, quick-fire sprints, massive hills, upper body push-ups in and out of the saddle, and a

GETTY 1 / ISAAC KOVAL

five- to 10-minute weights section while cycling. At

S

ay goodbye to those tired spinning classes from the ’90s. Indoor cycling has gotten a major makeover, and new methods that incorporate strength training with spin are popping up all over the U.S. Most rides are 45 to 60 minutes long: total body workouts that leave riders dripping with sweat. In a typical class, you can burn anywhere from 500 to 1,000 calories (depending on variables like body type, how hard you push yourself, etc.). And you know it’s a good workout when celebrities like Kelly Ripa, Lady Gaga and Jake Gyllenhaal are all spinning to stay in shape.

Another reason people love indoor cycling is the mind/body connection many studios offer.

Classes are led by high-energy instructors who inspire and motivate riders to push their limits. At Soul Cycle, phrases like Aspire to Inspire, Change Your Body, and Take Your Journey are printed in big, bold letters on studio walls to motivate students during their rides. Instructors draw parallels between struggling in the class and the life struggles we all face, giving people the inspiration and strength to tackle anything that comes their way—on and off the bike.

Instructor Marvin Foster explains that Soul Cycle offers more than just a workout. “Every class begins with a spiritual journey, eventually

building into a full-blown cardio dance party. At Soul Cycle, it’s about support, community and strength. I like to think of teaching as an exchange. We are both in the room, on our bikes, and we exchange the experience back and forth.”

Flywheel’s Jaimie Bailey says of her teaching method: “Most of the things I say while coaching riders through a long sprint or heavy climb are things that have gotten me through thick situations. There is nothing better than having one of my riders share a Flywheel success story with me. Each class is not only challenging and fun, but inspiring. Flywheel loyalists come back for more not only because they love it, but because it works.”

Music plays an important role in classes too.

Riders are often encouraged to pedal to the beat, so speed can change dramatically based on a song’s tempo. Cyc touts a “unique playlist that includes unreleased songs and remixes,” while Soul Cycle hosts special themed rides, like a class that only plays Beyoncé or one that features songs from the TV show Glee.

Whatever philosophy you follow, indoor cycling is a low-impact, high intensity cardio workout that helps you burn calories, build muscle, clear your mind and have fun!

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Soul Cycle we work hard and party hard on the bike.”

Cyc Locations: Madison, Wis.; Austin, Texas; New York, N.Y. Cyc activates the whole body the whole time, with moves inspired by more than 20 sports such as boxing, volleyball and swimming. Cyc Social, a proprietary social platform, allows riders to see where people within their network are sitting so they can book a bike nearby, and receive notifications when friends register for classes. Ride for Change is a part of Cyc’s tracking technology loaded onto every bike, and proceeds are donated to one of Cyc’s charity partners for every mile achieved.

Flywheel

Locations: Atlanta, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, LA, Miami, NYC, Philadelphia, Dubai Flywheel incorporates the TorqBoard, a proprietary technology which instructor Jaimie Bailey explains as a way to “digitally display and monitor every rider’s real-time performance data.

Additionally, after class each rider can view their personal performance data (total power, miles, calories burned, etc.) on our Performance Page, enabling individual goal setting and performance tracking.”

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