Mann's Jewelers

ACC E N T/ T H E M AG A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S ♦ S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 1

TIMELESS OUR FIRST EVER ISSUE DEDICATED TO TIMEPIECES

COLOR TRENDS

SPRING’S PRETTY PALETTE

A PURSE OF HER OWN A SUFFRAGIST’S LEGACY LIVES

INTO AFRICA

SUNSETS & SAFARIS

WELCOME

Illumannations NANCY MANN, CEO, SHARES A WARM WEATHER PALETTE FOR SPRING

The Pantone Color Report is a collection of seasonal colors selected by some of the world’s most creative fashion designers. We eagerly anticipate the release of the report after Fashion Week, so we can successfully “sync” our Mann’s Jewelers purchasing with trends and classics that are relevant. Designers say that their overall inspiration is varied, but for spring and summer, uber-icons such as Badgley Mischka, Catherine Malandrino, Lela Rose and Nanette Lepore specifically cite Venetian architecture, 1950s ceramics, fireworks over Istanbul, richly woven Peruvian textiles, and the Greek Isles as the starting point for some of their color selections this season.

The colors chosen for spring/summer 2011 present an interesting juxtaposition of warm and cool tones, creating a palette of striking intensity; Honeysuckle, Coral Rose, Peapod, Beeswax, Silver Peony, Russet, Regatta, Blue Curacao, Lavender and Silver Cloud collectively celebrate a range of colorful options.

With such a varied array of colors, accessorizing options seem endless. Bright white gold and diamonds enhance the distinctive hues of Honeysuckle, Peapod and Silver Cloud, while black diamonds and sapphires are creatively paired with Regatta. Oxidized sterling silver showcases Coral Rose by highlighting a citrine, yellow sapphire and enamel medallion, and diamond rondelles encircle the wrist in concert with Silver Peony gemstone beads. Icy sterling silver frames Lavender mother of pearl, and glowing Beeswax surrounded by diamonds suggests festivity and fun. Mellow yellow gold is the perfect foil for Blue Curacao Peruvian opal, while the natural earth tones of Russet, espresso and white diamonds beg the viewer to take a second look.

Whether bold and bright or soft and subtle, the rules are the same: have fun with color, experiment with the range of shades and be sure to MIX, not MATCH!

SILVER CLOUD CORAL ROSE

BLUE CURACAO LAVENDER RUSSET

REGATTA

PEAPOD

BEESWAX

SILVER PEONY

HONEYSUCKLE

2011 JOHN HARDY LIMITED

NAGA COLLECTION

Contents spring/summer 2011 MANN’S JEWELERS

2945 Monroe Avenue Rochester, NY 14618 585-271-4000 www.mannsjewelers.com STORE HOURS:

10:00 am - 5:30 pm Mon/Tue/Wed/Fri/Sat 10:00 am - 8:30 pm Thurs Closed Sunday Call for extended holiday hours.

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CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD

Irving Mann CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Nancy Mann PRESIDENT

Robert Mann C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R

Michael Gallina ART DIRECTOR

Megan Crawford PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS J O U R N A L S FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER

Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra

FEATURES 2 Welcome Letter

WATCH SECTION

6 MJ Scene

48 MJ Communique: The Rob Report

11 Moms, Dads & Grads

50 Watch Advisor

18 Local Spotlight: A Purse With a Purpose

54 Travel: Watch Lover’s Mecca

22 Art: Man’s Best Friend in the Spotlight

56 Celebrity Ambassadors: Beautiful Women, Beautiful Watches

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Beth Bernstein DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti PRODUCTION MANAGER

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

26 Perfect Gems

CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

30 Travel: Into Africa 36 Fashion: From the Runways

Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk,

40 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry

CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821;

44 Speed: Grand Sport

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of

60 Spirits: Orange You Glad?

this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the

64 Puzzles: A Crossword Gem

publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.

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MODERN ROCK CANDY® IN 18K GOLD WITH GEMSTONES. ©2011 IPPOLITA®. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

MJSCENE

WELLWED Hosted by Well Wed magazine, Mann’s Jewelers was proud to be a sponsor of the Vintage Carnival themed bridal event, A Wedding Affair. Held at the Memorial Art Gallery, the beautiful backdrop was an intimate setting in which to meet the area’s most celebrated and sought-after wedding professionals. The grand finale of this special event was a Couture bridal fashion show, with statement-making jewelry—from classic wedding day options to creative alternatives—all provided by Mann’s Jewelers.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRANDON VICK

MODELS DRESSED AS “SINS” WITH STEPHEN WEBSTER

STEPHEN WEBSTER PERSONAL APPEARANCE With much anticipation, Stephen Webster crossed the pond from the UK to personally introduce his acclaimed 7 Deadly Sins Ring Collection at Mann’s Jewelers. Each of the seven rings is a limited edition of seven pieces worldwide, each painstakingly handmade. The sins: Pride, Greed, Lust, Wrath, Gluttony, Sloth and Envy.

SCOTT SPEZZANO, STEPHEN WEBSTER & ROB MANN

MJSCENE

dadoFashioN show Dado Boutique lit up the catwalk with downtown sophistication at their fall show held at Good Luck restaurant. Hair by Rock Paper Scissors, makeup by Sephora and cool jewels by Mann’s Jewelers created looks that wowed the audience. Performances

by FuturPointe Dance and the a cappella group The Crazy Pitches rounded out a perfect evening. Proceeds from the event benefited the Wilmot Cancer Center.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHRISTINE KNOBLAUGH

$1 MillioN WoMEN’S EduCatioN Club Necklace eveNt On a magical evening in the fall, Mann’s Jewelers welcomed Jan August, Elaine DelMonte, Beth Anne Napier, Jennifer Sands and J. Christine Wilson, founders of the $1 Million Women’s Education Club, as they shared their club’s mission with other women in the Rochester community. Special presenters of the evening were Jonell McLain and Patti Channer, two members of the Women of Jewelia. Guests listened as they shared the background of their book The Necklace, the story of thirteen women who purchased an extravagant diamond necklace together as an experiment, and the friendships and contributions that resulted from this life-changing venture.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISUAL MEMORIES STUDIO - BRENDA COHEN

SCAN. EXPLORE.

FIND YOUR TAG HEUER

Invented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer and reengineered for our new in-house Calibre 1887 movement, the oscillating pinion enables our CARRERA chronograph to start in less than 2/1000th of a second.

1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com

M ms Dads& Grads CELEBRATE THE MOST IMPORTANT PEOPLE IN YOUR WORLD THIS SPRING WITH A GIFT THAT’S SURE TO BECOME A LIFETIME TREASURE .

Some creations are only available in limited quantities and are subject to prior sale. Some pieces are enlarged to show detail. Pieces are subject to change according to market fluctuations and may vary depending on size, quality and availability of diamonds and precious stones. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, we are not responsible for errors or omissions made during the printing process.

MOMS DADS & GRADS

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A. Birthstone rondelles designed to represent your special bond with your children, available in 14K white or yellow gold. Chain sold separately. Rondelles from $190 B. Diamonds-by-the-

yard necklace in 14K white gold with milgrain edge. As shown, 50” long. $5,975. Also available in many lengths, diamond weights and metals. Prices from $395 C. Todd Reed hand fabricated natural colored diamond band in palladium. $7,990 D. Todd Reed hand fabricated autumn colored diamond band in palladium. $2,475 E. Todd Reed hand fabricated black pear fancy cut diamond ring with white brilliant and raw cut diamonds in 18K yellow gold. $6,600 F. Todd Reed hand fabricated black diamond band in 18K yellow gold. $2,200 G. A. Link 3-Row diamond eternity band in platinum. $19,450 H. A. Link diamond eternity band in platinum. $11,750 I. 3-Row diamond band in 14k white gold. $2,150 J. Diamond band in 14K white gold. $595 K. Roberto Coin diamond pavé locket on an oval link chain in 18K yellow gold. $5,940 L. Roberto Coin “Granada” diamond locket on an oval link chain in 18K white gold. $4,000 M. Diamond hoop earrings in 14K white gold. $1,390 J.

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Unforgettable gifts

for Mom

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A. Freshwater cultured pearl necklace, 60” long with blue agate, chalcedony and crystal in sterling silver. $195 B. Freshwater cultured pearl necklace 50” long

with aventurine, jade, prehnite, peridot, quartz and crystal in sterling silver. $195

C. & D. Heather B. Moore is a personalized collection of fine jewelry made from

recycled metals, enabling the wearer to celebrate who, what and where is significant to them. Each charm and amulet is truly personalized with your “own story,” and destined to become a family heirloom. Chains sold separately. Charms from $115 E. Sydney Evan diamond “LOVE” necklace in 14K yellow gold. $1,350 F. Sydney Evan diamond “LOVE” necklace in 14K white gold with black rhodium. $825 G. & H. Diamond cuff bracelets in sterling silver. Each, $375 G.

KEEPSAKES THAT WILL REMIND HER SHE’S SPECIAL EVERY DAY H.

MOMS DADS & GRADS

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Something special

for Dad

A. MJ Rocks 8mm matte black onyx bracelet with diamond rondelle. $275 B. MJ Rocks 10mm matte black onyx bracelet with diamond rondelle. $295 C. David Yurman Waves band ring in sterling silver. $500 D. David Yurman gray rubber braid bracelet with Waves clasp in sterling silver. $295 E. David Yurman brown rubber braid bracelet with Chevron clasp in sterling silver. $295 F. Heather B. Moore personalized cufflinks made from recycled metals. Prices from $515 G. Classic engravable cufflinks in stainless steel. $50 H. Cufflink box in black leather. $55

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SURPRISE HIM WITH A GIFT HE WILL ALWAYS TREASURE A. Breitling Montbrillant Legend, 47mm, two-tone bezel and Navitimer bracelet, chocolate brown dial. Features an avaiation weight and measures conversion scale on caseback. $10,540 B. TW Steel CEO Canteen, 45mm, rose gold plated case with Italian leather strap. $550 C. Omega Constellation ’09, Automatic Co-Axial movement, 38mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, black lacquered dial with diamond hour markers, water-resistant to 100 meters. $7,350 D. The David Yurman ClassicŽ Timepiece Collection, 43.5mm stainless steel case on black alligator strap, Swiss Automatic ETA Movement with 42-hourspower reserve and 21 Jewels. Swiss Made, $3,200. Also available in 38mm, $2,900 E. Rolex Datejust II, 41mm, blue Roman dial with 18K white gold fluted bezel and stainless steel bracelet. $7,950

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MOMS DADS & GRADS

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C. A.

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for the Grad A. Small diamond hoop earrings in sterling silver. $79 B. Large

diamond hoop earrings in sterling silver. $139. Monogram necklaces available in sterling silver or 14K gold, with and without diamonds.

As shown: C. Oval script monogram with border in 14K yellow gold. $725 D. Round script monogram in sterling silver. $165 E. Round script monogram with pavé diamonds in 14K white gold. $1,725 F. Chan Luu leather wrap bracelet with faceted turquoise beads. $295 G. Chan Luu leather wrap bracelet with sterling silver beads. $195 H. David Yurman Petite Albion split shank ring in blue topaz and diamond in sterling silver. $625 I. David Yurman diamond pavé Crossover with X ring in sterling silver. $350 J. David Yurman small Sculpted Cable ring in sterling silver. $375 K. - M. “Diamond Sentiments” dog tag necklaces in sterling silver on a 16/18” adjustable chain. Each, $99

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A. B. ESQ by Movado. His & Hers Sports Classic watches with blue dial in stainless steel. Each, $250 C. Carbon fiber cross necklace in stainless steel. $50 D. Engravable rope border dog tag necklace in stainless steel. $95 E. Wrap bracelet in leather with stainless steel. $75 F. Cuff bracelet in blackened stainless steel. $38 Show your collegiate pride with salvaged stadium artifacts.

All genuine and authenticated. G. Bottle opener, $85 H. Pen, $170 I. Cufflinks, $150 Bottle opener, pen and cufflinks also available for Notre Dame and U Penn.

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phoTo CoUrTESy oF ThE SUSAN B. ANThoNy hoUSE.

localspotlight

A Purse with a purpose

Children playing in the neighborhoods of San Francisco would watch her breeze by with such purpose and determination. They even made up a nursery rhyme, one that we probably all have heard, but perhaps never realized its original inspiration: Miss lulu had a baby. she called him tiny tim. she put him in the bathtub to see if he could swim. he drank up all the water he ate up all the soap. he tried to eat the bathtub but it wouldn’t go down his throat. call for the doctor call for the nurse call for the lady with the alligator purse!

Mumps, said the doctor Measles, said the nurse Vote! said the lady With the alligator purse!

The Legacy of SuSan B. anthony

by KrisTine Thompson

F

or decades, Susan B. Anthony took trains, riverboats, carriages— whatever it took—to spread her message of women’s suffrage across the United States and Europe. In 1896 alone, she visited more than 30 cities in the California Territory, speaking to as many people as she could rally.

“Ms. Anthony,” designed by the Abigail riggs Collection for the Susan B. Anthony house, is a contemporary version of Susan B. Anthony’s trademark alligator purse. This limited edition, faux (synthetic) alligator handbag fits comfortably over the shoulder and accommodates a mini-laptop computer and other essentials. Each bag retails for $250, plus tax (and shipping, if necessary).

Visit www.susanbanthonyhouse.org for more information or to order. one hundred percent of the purchase price benefits the mission and programs of the Susan B. Anthony house.

phoTo CoUrTESy oF LIFE NoW VIdEo

While there, according to legend, she could be spotted hurrying to meetings, wrapped in her signature red shawl and clutching her trademark alligator bag, that she kept full of pamphlets related to suffrage, temperance, education and labor reform, along with transcripts detailing her famous arrest in 1872 for daring to vote in the presidential election.

CELEBRATING FOOD – EVERY DAY.

localspotlight

The original bag was donated to the Susan B. Anthony House more than 50 years ago and is one of the House tour’s highlights.

As one of the House’s most treasured possessions, it is even kept in a climate-controlled display case.

Ms. Anthony lived in the house at 17 Madison St. in Rochester, N.Y. for more than 40 years. She shared the home with her sister, Mary (who owned the home), and other family and friends. Although at times a campaign headquarters and office, the House was foremost a place of family life and comfort. It is preserved as such today and is now a museum, learning center and a designated National Historic Landmark.

To fill a large budget gap related to the current state of the economy, the Susan B. Anthony House Board came up with a unique idea: design and sell a contemporary version of the bag as a way not only to raise funds, but also to serve as a catalyst to share Ms. Anthony’s story of hope and perseverance. Proceeds from the sales of the bags, along with other fund-raising efforts, will go toward preserving the House and helping it gain national recognition as the authority on Susan B. Anthony.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE SUSAN B. ANTHONY HOUSE

“Interestingly, Ms. Anthony was quoted as often saying that ‘Every woman needs a purse of her own.’ Of course, she didn’t mean an actual purse; rather, it was a metaphor,” said Deborah Hughes, executive director of the Susan B. Anthony House. “Women at the time didn’t have the right to keep contracts, any money they earned or inherited property. They didn’t even have the rights to their own children. This new bag is a tribute to Ms. Anthony and her work.”

To create the bag, the House partnered with Gail Riggs of the Abigail Riggs Collection, which is known for its stunning, one-of-a-kind purses and for its philanthropic efforts. The “Ms. Anthony” bag became a reality last fall when it was introduced to the community at a launch party at Mann’s Jewelers. Each of the 2,000 bags is a numbered, limited-edition work of art.

Each bag contains a DVD about Ms. Anthony’s life, work and impact on others. Each one is also adorned with all sorts of detail. For instance, her quote, “Every woman needs a purse of her own,” is featured on the bag. Another famous quote of hers, “Failure is impossible,” is individually embossed onto a small gold-tone plate on the back of each purse.

This was her rallying cry during the last speech of her life, which she gave in Washington, D.C. in 1906 when she said these now famous words: “There have been others just as true and devoted to the cause and with such women consecrating their lives, failure is impossible!” Ms. Anthony died weeks later on March 13, 1906, confident it would not be long before women would have the right to vote.

Women gained that right on August 26, 1920, when the 19th Amendment, also known as the Susan B. Anthony Amendment, was ratified, stating: “The right of citizens of the United States to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United States or by any State on account of sex.”

Thank you, Ms. Anthony.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE SUSAN B. ANTHONY HOUSE

For more information on Susan B. Anthony, the House and the purse, visit www.susanbanthonyhouse.org.

Thank you Rochester for making Waterlily the #1 Makeup and Skincare store in Upstate New York. Waterlily also offers award-winning spa services from a professional and friendly staff in an elegant boutique atmosphere. We appreciate you supporting our locally owned and operated store and look forward to serving you! We ship everywhere, so don’t buy online, stop by or call in your order today!

2383 Monroe Avenue | Brighton, NY

585-442-5140 | waterlilybeauty.com

MAKEUP | SKINCARE | FACIALS | PEELS | WAXING | PEDICURES

ART

Man’s Best Friend In The Spotlight Animated Dogs Come to Life Paul Fierlinger’s parents were caught up in an international life of Czech politics, diplomacy and intrigue. They had little time for or interest in their young child. When they were called back to Czechoslovakia from the States, they left Paul with an American foster family they’d found through a newspaper ad. To cope with this benign neglect, Paul found solace in the company of loveable dogs.

At the tender age of 10, due to a regime change in Czechoslovakia, Paul was abruptly yanked from the American home he’d come to call his own and sent off to an elite boarding school in Prague (future playwright and president Vacel Havel and film director Milos Forman were his schoolmates).

Miserable, homesick for America, and unable to speak the language, Paul expressed himself through drawing. It turned out he had quite a talent.

Art school followed, coupled with an intense desire to return to the U.S. (no mean feat during the Communist era).

Eventually, using his artistic talent to forge documents, Fierlinger escaped to America. Over time, as his acclaim as an animator grew, Paul and his wife Sandra, a fine arts painter, began to create animated films together.

Shown on PBS and at prestigious film festivals such as Sundance and the Toronto Film Festival, their work received numerous Peabody Awards, an Oscar nomination for Best Animated Short, and several other major film festival awards. Paul’s lifelong love of dogs informed many of these projects.

Some favorites include the award-winning films Still Life with Animated Dogs, starring dogs Paul had come to love over his lifetime, and Drawn From Memory, an autobiographical film featuring the canine companions that helped him survive those unhappy years in Czechoslovakia.

In their latest feature from New Yorker Films, My Dog Tulip (based on

Above: Painter Juan Torcoletti used his love of dogs to turn his life around by painting their portraits.

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© JUAN TORCOLETTI/BOLTAX.GALLERY

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, FROM THE EARLIEST CAVE PAINTINGS TO CONTEMPORARY CANVASES, ARTISTS HAVE BEEN INSPIRED BY DOGS. TODAY, THESE ARTISTS BRING A UNIQUE VISION TO THEIR WORK. BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

A Passion for Elegance A Dedication to Quality A Commitment to Service

Office: 585.218.6825

Cell: 585.330.8750

Fax:585.218.2825

Email: marksiwiec@gmail.com

40A Grove Street • Pittsford, NY 14534 • www.MarkSiwiec.com • www.RochesterHomeJournal.com

British author J.R. Ackerley’s book), an animated German Shepherd gets top billing alongside the voices of Christopher Plummer, Lynn Redgrave and Isabella Rossellini.

Through a Photographer’s Lens Award-wining photographer Rosanne Olson is mostly known for her stunning portraits of people. But as she photographed her Knowing Portraits clients, she noticed that their pets were intrigued by the process, often hovering at the edge of the proceedings.

Olson became intrigued with them in return and came up with the concept of photographing dogs in the painterly style of the Old Masters.

Her regal dog portraits à la Thomas Gainsborough and John Singer Sargent look as if lit by the natural light of a window.

“When photographing dogs—and children—I am very patient,” explains Olson. “Sometimes it works quickly and sometimes it takes a while—there’s no forcing anything. Animals (and kids) are so honest. They don’t know how to ‘fake it;’ that’s something we learn as we grow up.

dressed in black leather with two black dogs, a Rottweiler and a German Shepherd. In a stroke of bad luck, the Rottweiler bit me so badly that I had to go to the hospital for stitches.

“I wanted to sue the lady, but felt sorry for the dogs. Also, because I was here illegally, I feared being sent back to South America. I was happy and in love with New York City, fully determined to fulfill my American dream.

“At first, to ‘heal’ myself from the frightening experience with that Rottweiler, I painted dogs with ferocious teeth, wild dogs and all black ones.

I started selling my paintings on the street, at the corner of Prince and Greene. Luckily, many sales followed.

“I had famous clients such as Giorgio Armani and many artists. Also, neighborhood residents and tourists bought my work. But, finally, I was arrested for selling on the street and was almost deported. However, fortune smiled and I got my paintings back—and my freedom—as well as my papers and a green card. So, I decided to change my life and stop selling my work on the street. I started doing dog portraits on request.

“First, I’d meet the dogs and their owners (the clients), do sketches,

HAVE A HEART

© ROSANNE OLSON/GETTY IMAGES

Other ways to help: Visit 4pawsforability.org, which provides service dogs to people with disabilities; www.humanesociety.org, the nation’s largest animal protection organization; or www.aspca.org, which rescues and shelters abused and neglected animals.

Left: Esther the Great Dane, as photographed by Rosanne Olson, has the regal look of Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy. Top Right: Art imitates life. In the award-winning Still Life with Animated Dogs, Paul Fierlinger gets his dog Spinnaker to do a barking “voice over.”

Bottom Right: In the film, Paul Fierlinger also goes sailing with Spinnaker.

“I simply try to make photographing them an enjoyable experience so that the expressions I get reflect the genuine feelings of the subject.”

Yes, you can almost see the dogs smiling.

Canine Creatures on Canvas Argentine painter Juan Torcoletti’s inspiration for painting dogs is best told in his own words: “My history painting dogs was born in the streets of New York. I had just moved to the city in 1993 and found a place in Soho. One morning, like any other, I went for coffee at Dean & Deluca on Prince Street. I passed a lady

make drawings and take photos. Afterwards, I’d work on the paintings in my studio (by then, I’d moved to an old storage building in Tribeca with a hotplate and a bathroom down the hall). That’s where I lived until I became disillusioned with my beloved America. And, when I started painting ferocious dogs again, I knew it was time to move back to Buenos Aires.”

Since 2004, Juan Torcoletti and his amazing dog portraits have been represented by boltax.gallery on Shelter Island, New York.

These very different portraits by this group of talented artists pay tribute to the long relationship people have had with dogs—not only as hunters, guardians and guides, but as loving companions.

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© PAUL & SANDRA FIERLINGER/AR&T ASSOCIATES, INC.

Animator Paul Fierlinger and Mutts cartoonist Patrick McDonnell teamed up to create commercials for The Shelter Pet Project (www.theshelterpetproject.org) to encourage people to adopt a pet.

Full service caterer: Weddings Festive Galas Corporate Gatherings Intimate Backyard Dinners Bar and Bat Mitzvahs Fundraisers Birthdays

(585) 204-0999 marcheculinaryevents.com

MarchÊ Culinary Events offers the excellent cuisine and hospitality our guests have come to expect from our sister restaurants — black&blue steak and crab, and jojo bistro & winebar

PerfectGems

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

CAPE ESCAPE Nestled on 25 acres atop a bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Chatham Bars Inn has been a landmark on Cape Cod since 1914. The hotel is famous for its extensive outdoor activities and lavish dining. But now guests can also indulge in the comfort of a contemporary spa that boasts a dozen king and queen-size suites, each with a hydrotherapy tub, sauna, steam shower, plasma TV, Bose sound system and fireplace. This spring, the spa is featuring a renewal and cleansing treatment that includes a body polish made of sugar drenched in plant oils, an application of botanical Shea butter, a linen body wrap, and face massage.

Since 1989, the Garden Conservancy has been restoring and preserving America’s exceptional gardens, from those made by wardens and prisoners at San Francisco’s Alcatraz Island (at left) to the Pearl Fryar topiary garden in South Carolina. Along with lectures and events, the group also offers members of the Garden Conservancy’s Society of Fellows the opportunity to see some of the most lavish gardens in the world. This year, along with U.S. destinations, the Fellows are traveling to Île de France to see Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, a 17th century Baroque chateau and garden designed by the André le Nôtre (who later designed the gardens at Versailles), and Normandy to visit Château de Brécy, another 17th century chateau with a meticulously restored Italian style garden.

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ABOVE: CHATHAM BARS INN; AT LEFT: GARDEN CONSERVANCY

GARDEN VARIETY

PerfectGems THE INN CROWD

ELYSIAN HOTEL

GETTY 1

YADES GREEK HISTORICAL HOTELS

On a narrow cobblestone street in Rethymnon old town on the island of Crete, a small, unassuming doorway opens to a large courtyard filled with masses of bougainvillea. A central fountain is surrounded by antiques, works of art, comfortable sofas and tables set with flowers. This stunning setting is the very fashionable restaurant of the Hotel Avli.

Greeks come from all over the island for the superb food made from local sources and the incomparable Greek wines (the Avli has the largest wine cellar on Crete). Now a member of the prestigious Yades hotels, the Avli was once the home of a Venetian lord, and the elegant architecture and gracious style of the past remain. There are only seven (very chic) suites, each designed in an individual color theme with every modern convenience carefully integrated into the exposed stone, wood beams and original Venetian arches.

Have a glass of wine on the rooftop and look out over this beautiful town to the sea.

PICNIC PLEASURES A quiet afternoon. China plates, good silver, a vintage tablecloth. And these sophisticated pairings from sommelier and gourmet Edward Costa, director of food and beverage at New York’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel. These elements combine to create a truly chic picnic with European flair. To evoke the flavor of a romantic afternoon in Italy, mingle the sharp and nutty flavors of Parmigiano Reggiano with the gentle Sangiovese grapes in Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Monna Lisa, 2006. Or, to give your picnic sparkle, try the light citrus Borgo Magredo Prosecco that highlights the flavors of smoked salmon. If you prefer a French ambiance, a fresh, crisp rosé is the perfect wine on a warm afternoon. Robert Oatley Rosé, 2008 is ideal with any chicken dish. And of course there must be champagne (and caviar). The bright and refreshing citrus flavors of Perrier Jouet Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blanc, 1999 is a perfect match to the creaminess and richness of Osetra caviar. For a picnic of this caliber, pearls are appropriate.

KIDDING AROUND Guest rooms at the Elysian Hotel in Chicago boast white Carrera marble bathrooms with soaking tubs, inset LCD televisions and separate showers. Rooms have fireplaces and expansive terraces, and the beds are draped with 460-thread count Rivolta Carmignani Italian linens. To give couples traveling with children an opportunity to enjoy all these appurtenances, the hotel invites kids to the kitchens of either Balsan or Ria, the hotel’s restaurants, for a cooking session with the pastry chef. They “assist” in the preparation of a dessert such as Balsan’s Paris Brest, a cream-filled pastry, or Ria’s spiced hazelnut cake, nestled in ice cream and topped with cherries and hazelnuts.

When the creation is finished, the kids get to take it with them. Maybe they’ll share.

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An extraordinary event requires an extraordinary setting.

Hold your wedding, reception, rehearsal dinner or other special event at Rochester’s landmark art museum.

500 University Avenue Rochester, New York mag.rochester.edu events booking: 585.276.8950 catering by Max at the Gallery 585.697.0491

photos: Brandon Vick Photography

TRAVEL

Into Africa IN ZAMBIA, SPOTTING WILDLIFE IS A WALK IN THE PARK.

BY CAROLINA BOLADO HALE

PHOTOS NATHAN HALE

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s we glided silently on the Zambezi River, we soaked in the stillness of the moment. To our right was Zimbabwe; to our left, Zambia. Above, the vast African sky enveloped us in its limitless supply of blue.

Then we saw the hippos.

Our reverie was broken by the creatures, who bobbed slowly up and down and grunted their displeasure at our having trespassed in their corner of the Zambezi. Our path ahead—and behind—was blocked by two pods of the roly poly beasts, among the deadliest in Africa. The promise of getting close to wildlife on a canoe trip was part of what had drawn us to Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. But this was, perhaps, a bit too close.

We gave them as wide a berth as possible. After several minutes, our guide, who was well versed in hippopotamus habits, dipped his oar into the water. “Let’s go. Quickly now,” he said, calmly but firmly.

It was one of the many reminders we had while on safari that despite the gourmet food, plush beds and clawfoot bathtubs, we were very much in the wild, in the home of often unpredictable animals engaged in a daily life-and-death struggle. It’s easy to forget while sipping afternoon tea and watching the river float lazily by, until an elephant lumbers into camp searching for a snack.

Being able to get deep into the bush was part of the allure of Lower

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Zambezi National Park, a 4,000-square kilometer piece of riverfront land about a half-hour’s flight south of Lusaka.

Though Zambia isn’t at the top of most people’s safari lists, it should be. Zambia’s guides are renowned beyond the country’s borders, and better park management and increased tourism revenue have helped to greatly reduce poaching. o roads lead to the park, so visitors must come via boat or prop plane; the latter lands on one of three red-dirt airstrips inside the park that often have to be cleared of zebras and warthogs. Formerly a private game reserve for Zambian ex-President Kenneth Kaunda, the park is now home to just six small camps, which means visitors are more likely to see resident wildlife as opposed to safari truck convoys.

And there’s plenty of wildlife to see. Despite the park’s small size, it boasts most of the big game that bring people to Africa, plus more than 300 different bird species. After the rainy season has passed and the watering holes have dried up, the animals all come to drink at the river, which means those six riverfront camps are perfectly positioned for wildlife viewing.

My husband and I split our visit there between Chiawa Camp, the first one established after the national park’s creation in 1983, and Old Mondoro, a more rustic and intimate camp a 45-minute boat ride downstream. The park has distinct regions, and the two camps are situated in completely different terrain. Dense shrubs, behind which lions hide while eyeing their prey, characterize the area around Chiawa, while large acacia trees with low-hanging, thick branches—perfect leopard perches—dominate the terrain downstream.

We were up before the sun each day (the animals don’t sleep in, so we couldn’t either) to explore the area by safari truck, boat, canoe or even on foot. Zambia is, after all, the

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Dr. Livingstone, I Presume No visit to Zambia is complete without a stop in Livingstone, next door to Victoria Falls. The local name for the falls, Mosi oa Tunya, means “the smoke that thunders.”

When water levels are high, the towering clouds of mist can be seen clearly from downtown Livingstone, six miles away. The falls are at their mightiest in May and June, making the viewing experience a very wet one. The flow slows to a comparative trickle by the end of the year, which means each individual waterfall is clearly visible, and activities like whitewater rafting or taking a dip in the Devil’s Swimming Pool (literally inches from where the water plummets 360 feet down) are available. The Royal Livingstone Hotel, situated on the banks of the Zambezi River just upstream from the falls, offers luxurious rooms, and wildlife viewing right from your window—giraffes and zebras freely roam the grounds of the hotel.

Rates start at $653 for double occupancy, including breakfast and national park fees.

Inside the canvas tent at Chiawa Camp

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birthplace of the walking safari.

Listening to bird calls and examining termite mounds, we saw the bush in a way that we never could have in a noisy safari vehicle.

Every day brought a new adventure, whether it was hooking tigerfish in the river or finding lion cubs playing in the tall grass. And each evening, we paused to engage in another safari ritual: the sundowner. No matter what we were doing at the time, as soon as the sun began to sink below the horizon, we would stop, prepare drinks and watch the sky turn various shades of orange, pink and purple as we discussed the lasting memories we’d just made.

Lower Zambezi National Park is open from mid-April until mid-November. Prices for Chiawa Camp range from $595 to $895 per person per day, depending on the time of year.

Old Mondoro’s rates begin at approximately $600 per person per day.

Rates include transportation within the park, all activities, food and drinks.

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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING.

FOR A LOVE THAT LASTS A LIFETIME

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FASHION

IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

SUBSTANTIAL PENDANTS PROVIDE PERFECT CONTRAST TO PRETTY PRINTS

Runways

From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS TEMPERED A

KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLORS

ON SPRING 2011 RUNWAYS ACROSS THE GLOBE.

BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Runways

From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS

TRENDS

The Joy of Jewelry COLORFUL GEMS FIT FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK

BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

THE GEMS Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple, are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures, he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality at affordable prices.

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IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN

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his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the direction of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color.

Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way to do that.”

www.leightondesign.com l 585.355.4952 New York Studio: 274 N. Goodman St. Suite D107 Rochester, NY 14607 Florida Studio: 345 NE 3rd. Ave. Delray Beach, FL 33444

LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down

“This year, you’re also going to see more engagement ring center stones in blues and greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back in 1981, when she received the engagement ring from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great option for women who don’t want to be too ‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem of great color.”

At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neongreen tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges, all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it represents a definite style direction.”

In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are also premiering dazzling fashion collections with great green gems, especially green tourmalines, peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates, green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.”

The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of The Pantone Color Institute, which named ‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really works well as a neutral and we see people more inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says.

This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as its number-one fashion color and, for spring/summer, the passion for purple continues, with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry designers are showing violet gem creations in everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and quartzes.

the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you have another option. Instead of investing in one massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be to buy several long chains and links that can each be doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can experiment and create many different looks, for both daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces, graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In this season of bold color, choose one with a bright gemstone center.

EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these supersized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only accessory.

GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck.

It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom, allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in the way natural light shines through a stained glass window.

MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve been wearing forever, this is the season to start collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If you want to stick to karat gold for your precious metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold colors to choose from: rose, blackened and sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece slightly changes the look of the color. (For example, a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe, you’ll see how all the shades really do work together.

And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of jewelry is collecting it over time.

FIVE TO BUY Now that you know what these post-winter pickme-up colors and coordinating gemstones are, which jewelry pieces in particular should you be considering? Ultimately that depends on your individual style as well as what jewelry you already own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we highly recommend: BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item adorning spring runway models was the big bangle, and they usually wore two or three per arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured stones, beads, or some sort of bright embellishment.

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floral

SPEED

Grand Sport THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY BY DAVID A. ROSE

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on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born.

Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956, many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550 Spyder identical to the one James Dean planned to race 55 years ago.

Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages of coffee table books, in museums or in movies.

Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is Top: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. Center left: A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham Wallis. Center right: Some of the many cars raced or built by Dan Gurney. Bottom right: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno.

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ROLEX / STEPHAN COOPER

t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of the car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-

Left: Luc Slijpen from the Netherlands stands next to his original, unrestored 1925 Type 35 Bugatti. Bottom left: Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence. Below: Patrick Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP.

fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these magnificent events.”

Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13 countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.)

At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American

racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula 1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in 1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa Francorchamps in the beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and admiration of peers and race fans around the world.

As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport, and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.”

Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy as we were,” said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each other and new generations appreciating similar things.”

The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a showcase for luxury and glamour.

Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions, cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to enjoy. The week-long festival of automobile culture culminates with the internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where some of the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function, history and style.

As trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo and participants head for home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable.

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ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011

getty 1 / Peter Dazeley

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WATCHES

MJcoMMunique

TheRobReport

OuR pResidenT, RObeRT mann, gives us a shORT lisT Of Things TO watch.

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ith Accent magazine publishing its 15th edition, we’re pleased to present you with our first issue ever to focus on timepieces. A watch worn on the wrist may seem like a thing of the past to some people, with the advent of cell phones which are never far from each of us these days; however, over my years in the jewelry and watch business I’ve observed the watch evolve into something more symbolic and celebratory than its inventors could have ever imagined.

Today a fine watch doesn’t just tell the time, but a fine watch marks the moment. We see watches that are selected every day at Mann’s to celebrate milestone moments in people’s lives: a Bar or Bat Mitzvah or communion, a graduation, a birthday, an anniversary, promotion, or recognition for time spent on the job. The ability to engrave the back case of many watches turns them into a memory—an achievement, the receipt of which is always accompanied by a story: ”I received this watch when....”

Worn on the wrist daily, a watch becomes a prized possession and a part of your life, much like a wedding band: something you can’t envision yourself without.

And then at times I see the love of a fine watch turn into a passion, with enthusiasts collecting special-edition watches, watches with unusual complications, and rare watches. I remember receiving my first heirloom watch, a Bulova Accutron Spaceview, its green circuit boards and copper coils gloriously exposed like the inside of a robot.

Certainly nothing fancy, but as a child I was instantly enamored, forever to be drawn to the art of the timepiece.

Our watch selection at Mann’s Jewelers is constantly evolving according to customer interest and demand. Some notable additions to our all star line-up include: OMEGA—The official timekeeper of the Olympic games, the first and only watch to be worn on the Moon, and of course, the chosen favorite of Agent 007, James Bond, the Omega line comes to us with a storied past and an exciting list of celebrity ambassadors (George Clooney, Nicole Kidman and Michael Phelps, to name a few). We introduced this line to Mann’s Jewelers with much anticipation. Featured here is the original “Moon Watch” model.

MOVADO—Refreshed for spring and sported in national advertising by Kerry Washington, Movado’s ladies’ Concerto timepiece includes a discreet new minute ring on Movado’s minimalist dial. With subtle contours and a luminous mother of pearl dial, this watch is available in stainless steel or with 18K yellow gold vermeil.

TAG HEUER—Drawing a lot of hype from watch aficionados and in online blogs, TAG Heuer’s introduction this spring of the Carrera 1887, Version 3, is being heralded for its “simple elegance” and its slim design housing a sophisticated chronograph function designed and produced in house by TAG. You’ll see Leonardo DiCaprio wearing various models from the TAG Heuer line this spring along with Maria Sharapova, a longtime celebrity ambassador.

Come find tomorrow’s classics today that will help you celebrate one of the most important and fleeting elements in life: time.

raymond-weil.com

| freelancer collection

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WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES

WATCH ADVISOR

IS IT OKAY TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH?

IMAGE COURTESY OF TW STEEL

If you love it, why not?

Unless you’re talking about a cheesy plastic watch, most of today’s better sports watches are thin enough to wear as an everyday watch, and offer features that most of us appreciate even at home or in the office. These can include water resistance, built-in chronographs, readable dials and various subdials, calendars and other complications.

That said, there’s nothing more elegant than a beautiful dress watch and for spring 2011, classical elegance is all the rage. Our suggestion: build a watch wardrobe that includes both sports and dress watches and alternate according to the occasion, and your mood.

WHAT ARE MECHANICAL WATCHES AND WHY ARE THEY SO EXPENSIVE?

As opposed to quartz watches that function electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a spring which must be periodically wound. A series of gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back and forth at a constant rate. A device called an escapement releases the wheels with each swing of the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine materials.

But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!

I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950 S ; IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?

GETTY 1/ RTI IMAGES

T H E D E C I S I O N T O R E S T O R E A V I N TA G E T I M E P I E C E is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless.

That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen.

In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in some cases, make the part by hand.

Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement.

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WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES

WATCH ADVISOR

I'M ABOUT TO INVEST IN A WATCH AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ITS COMPLICATIONS. CAN YOU HELP? Moon Phase Subdial Strap

30-Minute Register for Chronograph Second Counter for Chronograph

Lug Hour Marker or Index

Repeating Slide (Chimes Time Aloud When Activated)

Start/Stop for Chronograph Minute Hand

Hour Hand Crown

Second Hand

Date Indicator

Day of Week Indicator Year Indicator

Reset for Chronograph

Bezel

Month Indicator

Dial (Below the Hands)

ILLUSTRATION BY HARRY BATES; INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOHN HORNE

12-Hour Register for Chronograph

Crystal (Above the Hands)

Understanding the parts and functions of a timepiece can help you select the style that’s right for you. It’s also helpful later, when your watch requires service or repair. This particular model has both time-telling and time-keeping capabilities. The chronograph, for time-keeping, is essentially an advanced stopwatch.

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CEO GOLIATH THE NEW

COLLECTION

by Roberta Naas

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FOCUS: TRAVEL

WATCH LOVER’S MECCA 48 HOURS IN LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS

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f you find yourself in Switzerland and have some extra time (those two words being the operative ones) on your hands, La Chaux-de-Fonds is definitely worth a visit. The capital city of the district known as La Chauxde-Fonds, in the canton of Neuchâtel, is widely known as the watchmaking center of the world, the place where many world-renowned brands took root hundreds of years ago. Located in the 1,000meter-high Jura Mountains, the townspeople were unable to rely on farming once the winter snows set in. Watchmaking provided at first a great hobby, then a lucrative craft, and finally a proud tradition.

La Chaux-de-Fonds has received recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its exceptional history and universal contributions. It suffered extensive fire damage in 1794, when it was almost decimated and then totally rebuilt. It owes its survival solely to the manufacture and export of watches. The town is one of few that offers an architectural concept juxtaposing residential housing with artisanal workshops—bringing the once cottage industry into today’s world, but on its own terms. There is still an odd mix of modern and post-modern architecture, with soaring glass towers right next to old tileroofed homes. Some of the world’s most famous watch brands have roots in La Chaux-de-Fonds, including Pierre Jacquet-Droz (best known for his automata), Girard-Perregaux, Omega, Movado, Gallet and TAG Heuer.

Since the city and its surrounding canton remain one of the most lively and important Swiss watchmaking centers, the Musée International d’ Horlogerie (International Museum of Watchmaking) is a must-see. This popular

establishment showcases the history of timekeeping projects and products, from sundials to water clocks to table clocks, wall clocks, pocket watches and more. It is one of the richest collections in Switzerland with more than 4,500 exhibits. In the park outside the museum is a giant tubular-steel carillon clock with digital readout, built about 30 years ago. It melodically chimes the time every quarter-hour.

For those who love watchmaking but might want a diversion, La Chaux-de-Fonds is rich with other influences, including Art Nouveau architecture, famous paintings and even automotive heritage. The Villa Jeanneret-Perret is the first independent project of architect Le Corbusier (nee Charles-Edouard Jeanneret), born in 1887 in La Chaux-deFonds; there are several other examples of his architecture around town as well. Be sure to check out the Museée des Beaux-Arts, an impressive neo-classical building with a collection of Van Gogh, Delacroix and Renoir, among others.

An interesting tidbit for American car aficionados: This city is also the birthplace of Louis Chevrolet (born 1878), founder of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company. Something for everyone can be found during your two day visit.

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A FINE HOTEL, CHOICES ARE SLIM. WE CAN RECOMMEND: ATHMOS HÔTEL A four-star hotel in the center of town, near the train station and around the corner from the art and watch museums.

GRAND HÔTEL LES ENDROITS A four-star modern, but in a country setting. The hotel overlooks the town, with a shuttle to the city center.

ABOVE: An arial view of the Grand Fontaine in the Neuchâtel canton region.

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It’s not just your mother’s jewelry.

It’s the memories of the time you spent together.

There are things in your life that can be replaced.

And some things that can’t. Keeping important documents and irreplaceable family treasures with SentrySafe means keeping them organized and secure from fire, flood, or theft. With models beginning at $20, we have solutions for any budget.

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ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

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FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS

by Jillian Sprague

BEAUTIFUL WOMEN, BEAUTIFUL WATCHES THE WORLD’S FINEST TIMEPIECES MAKE THESE SUPERSTARS SHINE (AND OF COURSE, VICE VERSA).

GWYNETH PALTROW FOR BAUME & MERCIER When opportunity arose for Paltrow to partner with the famed Swiss Maison d’Horlogerie, she felt an instant connection to the brand’s motto: Life is about moments.

“That very much represents my personal philosophy on life,” she explains. For the actress and singer who recently got her star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, quiet moments with her family are rare and precious. At a seaside party in the Hamptons, she shared that many of these moments have taken place at her home there, where she enjoys relaxing, playing with her children and grilling seafood in the garden. “I feel at home in the place between land and sea,” she says.

DIANE KRUGER FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE Kruger fell in love with Jaeger-LeCoultre when she received a Reverso timepiece on her 18th birthday. Little did she know that over a decade later, the watch manufacturer would ask her to represent their prestigious brand on red carpets around the globe. Her elegant beauty, strong personality and incredible talent made Kruger the perfect muse for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers, who strive to encompass a balance between charm and strength of character in each

MARIA SHARAPOVA FOR TAG HEUER TAG Heuer believes that women experience time

of their timepiece collections.

differently than men. Men cut it up into fractions in order to visualize it, while women see it as a a poetic flow. For men, time is linear. For women, it is cyclical.

The brand recently asked tennis superstar Maria Sharapova to help design its new Formula 1 ceramic watches because “she is a woman endowed with the systematic approach that comes with the territory.” The ceramic bracelet with butterfly clasp is ideal for delicate wrists. The black edition is perfect for night on the town; the white, for anytime and anyplace.

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FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS

NICOLE KIDMAN FOR OMEGA Since 2004, this Academy Awardwinning actress has been a champion of Omega’s graceful and timeless designs.

KATE WINSLET FOR LONGINES

This year, she’s wearing the Ladymatic,

What does time mean to you?

a design first launched in 1955.

In my 20s it meant doing as much as I could very quickly, and in my 30s I’m

Who better than a strong woman

discovering that this needs to change.

like Kidman to represent this product,

What has been the highlight of your time as an actress? What further aspirations do you have?

which Omega’s president describes as a

The highlight of my career was being cast in my very first film, Heavenly

customers have been to us over the

Creatures, at 17. And the only aspiration I have is to remain as passionate

years, and our idea of what a

about my job as I always have been.

mechanical watch for women should

What do you consider your greatest strength?

be in the 21st century.”

tribute to “how important our women

You should probably ask my friends and family, but I would say that loyalty

Says Kidman, “These days, interest

is up there on my list of moral priorities.

in the quality of a watch movement isn’t gender specific; women have the

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

H

W

same interest in its performance as men do. The Ladymatic addresses that perfectly.”

DANICA PATRICK FOR TISSOT What has been the most memorable time in your life?

I would have to say competing at the Indianapolis 500. Growing up, it was always a goal of mine to one day race at the Brickyard, and to have gotten to that level in my career is something that I hold very dear.

What would you do with more time?

I think I’d spend it with my family and friends. As you can imagine, my life can be hectic at times and it would be nice to be able to slow down and enjoy the company of my loved ones more often.

What would you do differently if you could turn back time?

I wouldn’t change a single thing in my life. I’m very proud of my accomplishments on the track and of where I’m at in my career.

57

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solution to puzzle on page 64

W E P T

A M I E

S M E A R

M I L L I

F R A N

L O C A

D S A C I T N N U M N E E A I S A R T S T E R D E K P I E N G T O O R R A U T S E S A S T N C Y

L A B E L S N O N E C H O

I D S A E R T E T U C S E W E S B E D H A A T W E

C A T A N U A D P I T S S T A A T R E I N E S

A R P E L E R T I E O N S P A R O K E R G A L A T U T R I D E N E E D S R O B M A I L I S N T T P K S

SPIRITS

Orange You Glad?

ORANGES RETURN TO SPIRITS, COCKTAILS AND CULINARY CULTURE

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

R

enewed interest in the cocktail over the past few years means highquality citrus fruits, from the exotic (yuzu, dragonfruit) to the everyday (lemons and limes), have come to the fore as important drink ingredients. Lost in this renaissance until recently, the unassuming orange.

Oranges were a luxury in Marie Antoinette’s day when any manor worth its zest boasted an orangerie greenhouse. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the cognescenti drank Planter’s Punch, which included exotic ingredients like rum and orange juice. Unfortunately, somewhere in the 1960s, oranges got a bad rap following one too many corny Polynesian restaurants and a cocktail culture that devolved the Tequila Sunrise into a syrupy mess.

Thankfully, these days the lowly orange is squeezing into better cocktails and cuisine. In drinking establishments around the country orange bitters, orange flower water, Orgeat and orange marmalade are all increasingly common ingredients on the bar. They’re also showing up inside the bottle, in both liqueurs and the hard stuff.

Where once tipplers chose between pricey Cointreau or Grand Marnier and cheap, sugary triple secs for their Margaritas and Sidecars, an entire shelf’s-worth of premium options is now available, including Combier and Mathildé Orange XO (both out of France), Creole Schrubb (Martinique) and Patrón Citronge (Mexico). Each has a distinctive flavor profile ranging from “intense, fresh orange” to “creamsicle,” something to consider when crafting drinks. Combier, for example, uses a blend of sun-dried sweet and bitter orange peels for a not-too-sweet, palate-cleansing finish. You can also now seek out variations like Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur (rich, red and tart) or Bols Dry Orange containing rum. Tuaca, an Italian liqueur rich Left: A few of the high-quality options drinkers now have to upgrade their Margaritas, Harvey Wallbangers and Sidecars.

60

“FOR THE LIFE OF ME, I CAN’T SEE WHY ANY BAR USES ANYTHING BUT PURE FRESH LEMON OR ORANGE JUICE.” —VICTOR “TRADER VIC” BERGERON, 1948 in vanilla and orange, has made an unlikely resurgence at Arizona bars, according to a spokesperson.

In spirits, orange-flavored vodkas dance on bars in Miami and Vegas, adding a sweet-tart component to nightclub drinks.

Last fall, Stolichnaya introduced a limited edition Stoli Ohranj featuring the Playboy bunny logo to “celebrate our brand relationship” with Playboy founder Hugh Hefner. Seagram’s, meanwhile, launched an Orange Twisted Gin that ratchets up the orange peel most London Dry Gins already include in their distillations.

Most intriguing on the premium end is Compass Box Whisky’s recently re-launched Orangerie, a lightly infused whisky out of Scotland, featuring fresh orange zest “actually zested for us by little old ladies in Bath,” according to Compass Box president John Glaser. The 10+-year blend of grain and malt whiskies undergoes three infusions: cassia bark, clove and orange zest, the result being a mild, well-balanced sipping Scotch sure to infuriate purists and intrigue newcomers.

When it comes to cocktails, the rediscovery of classics like the Blood and Sand (OJ, sweet vermouth, scotch, cherry liqueur) and a variety of upgraded and refined Tiki drinks are putting oranges back on the bar in a big way.

“The juice, flesh and zest can all be used in making both sweet and savory dishes and drinks,” says restaurateur Todd English. “Oranges specifically are great acid enhancers in salads, fish and meat dishes. They also pair beautifully with flavors such as vanilla and chocolate in desserts and cocktails.” At English’s Food Hall in New York’s Plaza Hotel, diners can sip on a Food Hall Old Fashioned (Hennessy, Aperol and St. Germain, muddled oranges and freshsqueezed orange juice).

Adding oranges to booze is nothing new, of course, according to spirits historian and Esquire drinks columnist David Wondrich in his latest book, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl (2010 Perigee Trade). Among the fashionable people drinking alcoholic punch in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, limes were decidedly unfashionable (in part due to their association with sailors and the rough-and-tumble British Royal Navy), while lemons and oranges were “in.” Oranges were, at first, used when lemons weren’t available, “but eventually there arose a faction of tipplers who made

their Punch with oranges alone,” Wondrich writes in a chapter dedicated to Orange Punch.

Kimberly Patton-Bragg, a New Orleans bartender and an On the Rocks semi-finalist, agrees: “Fresh orange juice can bring a softness, acidity and mouthfeel other citrus can’t,” she says.

But not everyone is sold on contemplating the Navel.

Momofuku mogul David Chang says he’s focused on exploring the savory rather than the sweet side of citrus. “Not that we don’t love oranges,” he assures, “but on the culinary side we like yuzu, Kefir limes, and similar Asian citrus.”

Orange Punch Adapted from Jerry Thomas’ Bordeaux Wine and Liquor Dealer’s Guide, 1858. Reprinted in Punch (David Wondrich 2010) and reprinted here with the author’s permission. Serves 16.

The juice of 3 to 4 oranges (Navel for sweetness or Seville for complexity) The peel of 1 or 2 oranges 3/ 4 lb. of sugar 3 1/2 pints boiling water 1/ 2 pint Porter 3/ 4 to 1 pint each dark rum and brandy Make an oleo-saccarum by infusing/marinating peels and sugar for a half hour, add juice, then strain into a punch bowl. Add boiling water, 1/2 pint Porter (beer) and 3/4 to 1 pint each of dark rum and brandy. Add more warm water and sugar as desired for proper strength and sweetness.

Earl Grey Garden

by Kimberly Patton-Bragg, Clever, New Orleans 2 oz. Ketel One Orange vodka 1 oz. Earl Grey simple syrup 1/ 2 fresh lemon 1/ 2 fresh orange 1 Thyme sprig Club soda To make the simple syrup, combine 1 cup hot tea with 1 cup sugar, stir until dissolved and cool. Cut lemon and orange halves into quarters and muddle with Earl Grey syrup in a mixing glass. Add vodka and ice. Shake and strain into a tall glass. Top with club soda, and garnish with thyme.

62

PUZZLES

Across

1. Bankrolls 5. “Put ___ on it!”

9. ___ diem (seize the day) 14. Give off, as light 15. Spanish house 16. Notify 17. A.T.M. access code 19. Attach 20. Golf ball prop 21. Michelle Obama ___ Robinson 22. Beachgoer’s goal 24. Health resort 25. Supermarket area 27. Egypt and Syria, once: Abbr.

29. Brainy 32. Five- or seven-card game 37. “___ Sandman” 39. TV show featuring a DNA lab 40. Ball 41. Caribou kin 42. Cozy room 44. Aliens, for short 46. Egyptian boy king 47. “I cannot tell ___” 49. Comic book punch sound 51. Big step 53. Downloadable alerts 56. On ___-to-know basis 57. Bruin legend Bobby 58. Tops 60. Neighbor of Ga. 63. Colorado Indian 65. Dr. of rap 66. ___ Mann 69. Valentine’s Day dozen 71. Knight’s protection 74. “... and ___ of thousands!”

75. Abhor 76. “___ that special?!”

77. ___ Mann 78. Has a mortgage 79. Toll rds.

Down

1. Cried 2. French girlfriend 3. Sup 4. RR stop 5. Summits 6. Prada and Fendi 7. Suffix with expert 8. Bull’s-eye hitter 9. Doze 10. Will Smith title role

A Crossword GEM

BY JOSH REYNOLDS 1

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solution on page 58

11. Roger of “Cheers” 12. Support, with “up” 13. Europe’s highest volcano 18. Together 23. Unwelcome financial exams 25. Gallery display 26. And so forth 28. Yankee Maris, informally 29. Makeup problem 30. Pop music’s ___ Vanilli 31. Welcome at the door 33. “What’s the ___?”

34. Actress Holmes 35. Get away from 36. Gave a PG, say 38. News bulletin 43. “Smoking or ___?”

45. ___ Island, N.Y. 48. It may be stroked 50. Part of WWW 52. E.R. workers 54. Reliable 55. Put under 59. Astrological ram 60. Actress Drescher 61. “Livin’ la Vida ___” 62. Straight ___ arrow 64. Canyon effect 66. Coarse file 67. Sound on Old MacDonald’s farm 68. Some diner orders 70. Computer key: Abbr.

72. “Hee ___” 73. Cambridge univ.

© D.YURMAN 2011

MANN’S JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2011