ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2011
BOLD& BEAUTIFUL! THE NEW GEMSTONES
PLUS: Celebrity Spotlight Impeccable Pearls Gorgeous Gifts! Special Watch Section:
IT’S ABOUT TIME
INSIDE:
GIFT GUIDE
THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION.
LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT Hand-wound mechanical movement P.2002 calibre, three spring barrels, second time zone with 12/24 h indicator, 8-day power reserve with linear indicator, seconds reset. Steel case 44 mm Ă˜. Steel buckle.
www.panerai.com
, Every year it feels like nothing short of a miracle—the cold of winter that we had thought would never end finally gives way to the spring thaw. Bursts of greenery and color begin to wash over the dull, gray landscape that we had become accustomed to for so many months. Spring just feels good—we have more hours of daylight to work, play and enjoy the outdoors and each other. This issue of Accent magazine focuses on the celebrations in our lives: Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations, engagements and weddings. At Tapper’s, we encourage you to Mark the Moment® of the most special junctures in your life. It will not surprise you that we believe that a gift of lasting, precious jewelry is a wonderful way to mark such a time, but why not accompany such a gift with another meaningful way to Mark the Moment®? A poem written from your heart, a song composed just for the occasion, a visit to a place that has special meaning to both of you—all of these are ways to create memories that will last a lifetime. Enjoy and take the time to truly savor the moments that lie ahead.
With our very best wishes,
Howard Tapper
Steven Tapper
Marla Tapper Young
Mark Tapper
Contents spring/summer 2011 DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY
NOVI Twelve Oaks Mall 27716 Novi Road Novi, MI 48377 Phone: (248) 465-1800 Fax: (248) 465-1818 TROY Somerset Collection North 2800 West Big Beaver Troy, MI 48084 Phone: (248) 649-2000 Fax: (248) 649-5076 www.tappers.com PRESIDENT
Howard Tapper VICE PRESIDENT
Steven Tapper
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C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R
Jeffrey Garden CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Robert Hutter MARKETING DIRECTOR
Margaret De Young C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R
Karynne Naftolin PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS J O U R N A L S FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER
Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter
26 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry 30 His Side: Romancing the Stone
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
4 Events at Tapper’s
32 Fashion: From the Runways
6 Jeweler Spotlight: Introducing Paul Maki
36 Profile: Mikimto 50 Speed: Grand Sport
Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti
8 Client Spotlights
54 Proposals: Gloves at the Shoe
PRODUCTION MANAGER
12 I Forever Do
56 Essay: Lucky Charms
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
18 Accent Advisor 20 Red Carpet: Shining Stars 24 Essay: The Family Pearls
DESIGNERS
Peg Eadie Hugh K. Stanton
13 As Time Goes By 14 Best Bets for Graduates, Dads and Moms
Beth Bernstein
WATCH SECTION 40 Watch Advisor
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton
44 What’s New: Fashionably on Time
Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices
48 First Person: Hand-Me-Downs Welcome
in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or
of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information omissions.Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities
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for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
ON THE COVER: PHOTOGRAPHER: PETER SAKAS; MODEL: ANGELA MARTINI – ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: KIM BAKER; STYLIST: SHARON ELLIOT; WARDROBE: MARC BOWER; JEWELRY: DAVID YURMAN, IPPOLITA, ROBERTO COIN, ROLEX.
WEST BLOOMFIELD Orchard Mall 6337 Orchard Lake Road West Bloomfield, MI 48322 Phone: (248) 932-7700 Fax: (248) 932-7717
MODERN ROCK CANDY® IN 18K GOLD WITH GEMSTONES. ©2011 IPPOLITA®. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Susan Tapper, Steven Tapper, Don Benyas, Florine Mark
Ippolita with the Pensler family
Judith Ripka’s fall personal appearance at Tapper’s was truly the talk of the town. Hundreds of guests packed Tapper’s West Bloomfield store and enjoyed sumptuous hors d’oeuvres and cocktails while browsing through an amazing extended collection from the world-renowned designer. Having the opportunity to meet Judith Ripka was the highlight of the evening for Tapper’s clients.
Judith Ripka, Denise Ilitch
Nina Eisenberg, Hersh and Karen Rothenberg
Lindsay Steingold, Ashley Beresh, Katie Demarco
Sharon Minott, Ippolita, Pearl Gordon
Tapper’s guests had the opportunity to celebrate the artistry of Ippolita and meet the designer herself as she made a rare personal appearance at our West Bloomfield store. With her understated Italian beauty and magnetic personality, Ippolita greeted her fans warmly as she showcased her magnificent line for the holiday season.
Adrienne Ruby Fink, Judith Ripka, Carla Schwartz
Sandy Rosenthal, Judith Ripka, Dr. Annette Barnes, Florine Mark
Crowds gathered to meet designer Judith Ripka
Howard Tapper, Judith Ripka, Susan Tapper
Pearl Gordon, Marco and Kyesook Chin
Tapper’s Panerai enthusiasts gathered for an elegant evening at the Capital Grille, enjoying exceptional cuisine and fine timepieces. Created in 1938 for the Italian Navy, the first Panerai watch was also the first military divers’ watch. Faced with the dilemma of creating a watch that divers could read while under water, Officine Panerai devised a simple solution—make the watches extremely large. Panerai continues to demonstrate the principles that have always guided the company: innovation, exclusivity, and quality.
Leora Goldman, Tom Elward, Holly Carlos, Rosemary Rolak
Mark Tapper, Dr. Charles Boyd
Les Stansbery, Scott Ferguson, Derek Hurt
Dr. Joe Miller, Eugene Blakeman
Dr. Tom Selznick, Sandor Holzer, Dr. Adam Kellman
Aaron Shephard, Steven Tapper, Derek Hurt
UPCOMING EVENTS
April 29 & 30: Charles Krypell Personal Appearance & Trunk Show, West Bloomfield May 4 & 5: Mikimoto Trunk Show, Twelve Oaks Mall and Somerset Collection June 25 & 26: Tapper’s Summer Bridal Event, All locations
Introducing…PAUL
MAKI
On a typical day, Paul Maki can be found hard at work at his jeweler’s bench inside Tapper’s West Bloomfield store. A native of Berkley, Michigan, the 38-year-old jewelry designer spent childhood summers with his grandfather in the Upper Peninsula. Together, they would take metal detectors and go out looking for copper and raw silver. “I liked to beat metal with a hammer even at a young age,” Paul remembers. Today, as one of Tapper’s master jewelers, Paul channels his passion for precious metals into beautiful designs for Tapper’s clients. Most recently, Paul Maki Designs has introduced an exclusive line of engagement rings, with each design’s inspiration tied to a particular historical time period. Together with his wife, Andrea, who helps both with ring design and on the brand’s business end, Paul has designed and crafted an exclusive line of engagement rings. Inspired by specific periods during the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries, Paul Maki rings are designed and crafted to last forever. “The design and construction of our rings have been meticulously thought over to ensure that the customer will have problem-free wear,” Paul notes. Paul Maki’s Georgian-era rings hearken back to a time when precious metals were extremely expensive and engagement rings from that time focused on airy designs. Notice the slim, elegant profile of this ring, as well as the open heart detail that flanks the center diamond. In contrast, jewelry crafted during Queen Victoria’s reign boasted lavish use of precious metals as well as large diamonds and gemstones. Maki’s three-stone diamond “Victorian” ring is reflective of this era. Art Nouveau is a style of art that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century and manifested itself in natural, organic and floral motifs—leaves, scrolls, a natural look. The Edwardian period was influenced by luxury and lavish designs, giving way to intricate concepts and attention to detail. Art Deco moved away from the softer, organic, natural feel of Art Nouveau and focused on functional, industrial, clean edges and lines. In addition to the bridal designs that you will find exclusively at Tapper’s, Paul will also custom-design rings and other jewelry to perfectly suit a client’s individual desires. “If you can dream it, I can work to make it happen,” says Paul. Tapper’s will soon carry an even greater selection of Paul Maki designs, including more men’s and women’s wedding bands, and new engagement ring styles. To make an appointment with Paul Maki, please contact Tapper’s at (248) 932-7700.
2011 JOHN HARDY LIMITED
NAGA COLLECTION
A Match Made in Heaven Tatianna & Jonathan Merritt Married October 24, 2010 THE BRIDE...Tatianna Thomason, 27, A graduate of Wayne State University, Tatianna is an administrative assistant at Straight Gate International Church.
THE GROOM...Jonathan Merritt, 28. A graduate of the University of Michigan, Jonathan serves as church administrator at Straight Gate International Church, headed by his parents, Bishop Andrew and Viveca Merritt.
THE MEETING... “At the moment that I first saw Tatianna, bells went off and something told me that she was to be my wife,” Jonathan explains. Initially unexcited about attending the event where the couple first met, Jonathan knows that something drew him there that evening. Tatianna knew that she had met someone special, but wasn’t able to get a good look at Jonathan that evening. “It was so dark that I had no idea what Jonathan looked like, just that he was a gentleman and very tall. 6’7” to be exact.” Jonathan texted her a photo of himself later that evening… after some more texting back and forth, the couple talked every day after that evening and, five months later, were engaged. THE PROPOSAL...On the day of Tatianna’s graduation party, Jonathan “surprised me with a video spoof about our relationship, made by him and his brother,” Tatianna remembers. “The end of the video told me to proceed to the other room for my next surprise.” There, Tatianna found a candlelit room illuminating a banner proclaiming “I love you, TT.” Jonathan was on one knee, and he asked Tatianna to be his wife. “I couldn’t have asked for a better proposal,” says Tatianna. “Of course I said ‘Yes!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: A 1.33 ct. round brilliant cut diamond in a custom 18K white gold diamond pavé mounting, with matching wedding band. His: Platinum and diamonds, from Tapper’s Estate Collection.
THE WEDDING...Surrounded by 1,500 of their friends and family, as well as several hundred roses, calla lilies and hydrangeas, Tatianna walked down the aisle (that had to be specially built on top of the pews) at Straight Gate International Church, with Jonathan meeting her at the end. Especially meaningful is that the couple was married by Jonathan’s father, Bishop Andrew Merritt. The celebration continued late into the night at Detroit’s Westin Book Cadillac Hotel, with a dinner and dancing reception for 250 guests. The next day, Jonathan whisked Tatianna away to their surprise honeymoon destination—Maui – followed by several days in California. WHY TAPPER’S? Says Jonathan: “We have a close relationship with the Tappers; my parents are actually neighbors with Howard and Susan Tapper. So every piece of jewelry that my family has bought over the last 17 years has come from Tapper’s.” Jonathan also noted that the magnificent diamond jewelry that Tatianna wore on her wedding day was from Tapper’s, as were his wedding band and cufflinks. “Pearl Gordon, along with the whole Tapper family, offer excellent customer service. I wouldn’t have gone anywhere else, since Tapper’s is like extended family to me. Everyone was so helpful in finding the best diamond and that is exactly what we got, plus more.”
A Natural Attraction Melissa & Kevin Konopka Married June 5, 2010 THE BRIDE...Melissa Cassin, 27. Currently finishing a Masters of Science in Nurse Anesthesia from the University of Detroit Mercy. Loves polar bears, hates being the center of attention.
THE GROOM...Kevin Konopka, 30, graduated from Central Michigan University and Henry Ford Hospital’s nursing school. Kevin is a nurse in the Cardiothoracic Intensive Care Unit at Harper Hospital. A former Boy Scout, Kevin loves football and camping.
THE MEETING... “Kevin and I met at work…but we did not really get to know each other until later that year, while taking a course for work,” explains Melissa. “When the course was over, we decided to go grab a bite to eat… and we instantly clicked. His birthday was the following weekend so we went out on an unofficial first date with some of his friends. Our first official date was the next day at a Detroit Red Wings game (definitely my choice). We have been inseparable since then.”
THE PROPOSAL...A self-admitted ‘tree-hugger,’ Melissa says that Kevin’s choice to propose to her at the Toledo Zoo’s polar bear exhibit on Earth Day was really fitting. The proposal took weeks of preparation and required coordination with the polar bear zookeeper and the zoo’s event planner. His efforts were definitely appreciated: “He really put a lot of thought into the whole day, and I could not think of a more perfect way for Kevin to propose,” Melissa said. “It was the middle of the afternoon, and very hot. He was insistent about getting over to the Arctic exhibit and I wanted to linger at other spots for a while. We finally made it over there and listened to a presentation about polar bears. I was completely oblivious at the time, but at the end of the presentation, they asked if anyone had questions. I knew something was up…he was holding my hand, and it was sweaty and shaking. Kevin raised his hand, received a microphone, and got down on one knee… I was in shock, thinking, this is not happening…there are too many people here! He opened the Tapper’s box, put the most gorgeous diamond on my finger, and of course I said ‘Yes!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: A 2.29 ct. round diamond mounted in a platinum Martin Flyer shared prong eternity setting with matching Martin Flyer eternity band. His: Platinum band by Novell with hammered center, high polish and milgrain edge. THE WEDDING...Melissa and Kevin had a June wedding at the Inn at St. John’s in Plymouth, followed by a honeymoon in California, Mexico and Aruba. The couple currently resides in Brownstown with Guss, the “coolest dog in the world.” WHY TAPPER’S? “Every girl wants the most beautiful engagement ring, and when we first talked about the possibility of looking for rings, I told Kevin he needed to go to Tapper’s, and only Tapper’s,” Melissa explained. “I learned about Tapper’s when I was a teenager, receiving a beautiful bracelet from my aunt and uncle for Christmas. From that moment on, I was hooked! When we went to Tapper’s to begin the process, the friendliness and professionalism from all of the workers, and the stunning beauty of the diamonds made our decision simple. We were very comfortable from the minute we walked into the store…we immediately felt like part of the family. Marla Tapper helped us design the perfect engagement ring and band, and she was possibly as excited as we were!”
A Thanksgiving Proposal Trisha & M.G. Shapiro Married September 25, 2010 THE BRIDE...Trisha Cohn, 27, graduated from Michigan State University in 2005 and is manager of philanthropic giving at Detroit Public Television. THE GROOM...M.G. Shapiro, 32, graduated from the University of Michigan in 2001 and is the operations manager for Rainbow Child Care Center.
THE MEETING... Trish and M.G. met at a mutual friend’s Groundhog Day party and ended up hitting it off. “We talked all night,” remembers Trish, “but he didn’t ask me for my number.” It wasn’t until the Fourth of July, however, that Trish and M.G. had their first date, over coffee in Royal Oak. “Our second date was two days later where M.G. made dinner for me…scrambled eggs and quinoa. It was love!”
THE PROPOSAL...“Thanksgiving is somewhat of a ritual for me,” says M.G. “I don’t have a lot of family, so every year I cook a large meal and whoever is in town is who eats. Some years I have a half dozen of my friends, some years just one or two. For Thanksgiving in 2009, I invited Trish’s whole family over. Aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole crew. I had my family and friends as well.” Dressed in what he describes as his ‘Thursday best,’ (sweatpants and a Detroit Lions T-shirt), M.G. offered a toast at the beginning of the meal. “After thanking everyone for coming, I said: ‘ I’m very nervous that you may not like my cooking, so I figure the best way to ensure you come back next year is to marry Trish.’” Then, on bended knee, M.G. proposed. “Thirty minutes later, when Trisha was done crying, she said ‘YES!’”
THE RINGS...Hers: 1 ct. Hearts On Fire solitaire engagement ring with a pavé diamond band. His: Beveled edge palladium wedding band. M.G. also had a necklace custom-created for Trisha using family diamonds and chose diamond earrings from Tapper’s to match. The couple selected Pandora bracelets as bridesmaid’s gifts and had the groomsmen’s gifts engraved at Tapper’s as well.
THE WEDDING...M.G. and Trisha wed on September 25th, 2010, at the beautiful Twin Lakes Golf Club in Oakland, Michigan. WHY TAPPER’S? M.G. recalls:
“I called a very close friend of mine to ask her questions about rings. I knew absolutely nothing about diamonds and was terrified I was going to make a mistake without some educating. She recommended Tapper’s because she is friends with Marla Tapper and her husband got her ring from Tapper’s, as well. So I took the day off from work and met with Marla. I had about a million questions for her and she answered every one. On that first day, we spent hours together, with Marla teaching me about the 4 Cs. Marla was amazing. She made me feel very comfortable about my choice. When she showed me Hearts On Fire, I immediately knew it was the diamond I wanted for Trish.”
SCAN. EXPLORE.
FIND YOUR TAG HEUER
Invented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer and reengineered for our new in-house Calibre 1887 movement, the oscillating pinion enables our CARRERA chronograph to start in less than 2/1000th of a second.
1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com
®
There are as many ways to fall in love as there are stars in the sky. Now that you have found each other, each of you shines more brightly than before. Tapper’s is home to the top names in bridal jewelry designers, as well as to a team of custom designers who are always ready to help you create the ring of your dreams. A direct diamond importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and quality for diamonds as radiant as your love. The dramatic engagement rings and wedding bands shown on this page represent only a fraction of the hundreds of rings that sparkle in our stores. Due to the fluctuating prices of precious metals and sizing options with diamond and gemstone weights, prices will vary. Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist at (248) 932-7700 for specific pricing information, or to make an appointment.
Time stood still on your wedding day… luckily your Cartier Ballon Bleu will step in with precision and style. Both in stainless steel. Gents, $5,650. Mid-size, $4,650.
Anniversary bands from Precision Set. Prices available upon request.
Diamond rondelles enhance the finest pearls in the world in this breathtaking Mikimoto strand, $5,500.
®
Emerald-cut diamond eternity band in platinum, from Kwiat, $28,000.
Even if you’re not planning to attend the u upcoming royal wedding, let her know that she’s your queen with this stunning sapphire and diamond dia amond ring set in 14K white gold, $4,699. Crafted in 18K white gold, richly-hued sapphires are surrounded by 124 diamonds to create a stunning effect, $7,299.
A perfect graduation gift from John Hardy’s Batu collection – sterling silver bracelets with heart and gemstone charms (choose from either rubelite or hematite). Each, $395. Achieve maximum sparkle with the ‘Beloved’ earrings and pendant in18K white gold from Hearts On Fire, which produces the most perfectly cut diamonds in the world. Pendant, $3,200. Earrings, $4,950.
Treat the graduate in your life to the finest pearls in the world. A solitary, stunning Mikimoto pearl is set in 18K white gold with diamond accent, on an 18” gold chain, $590. Matching pearl and diamond stud earrings, $710.
Sophisticated enough for his first ‘real’ job but young enough to be cool…the TAG Heuer Aquaracer chronograph with blue dial, date, $1,900.
John Hardy ring with black sapphires, $750. Sultan bracelet with black sapphires, $1,095.
With its sports-chic design, retro accent and warm tones, Baume and Mercier’s new Capeland watch is a contemporary reinterpretation of the ‘galet’ pocket watches of the early 19th century. In stainless steel, $7,000. It’s always tee time with a ‘golf ball’ money clip in stainless steel, $150. Perfect for the car buff -- add polish to any outfit with these two-tone, 14K gold and diamond ‘steering wheel’ cufflinks, $1,179.
The Freelancer automatic from Raymond Weil is modern and sleek, $1,850.
Dad will be at the height of fashion with the Royal Cord design from America’s premier designer, David Yurman. All in sterling silver. Cufflinks, $450. Ring, $375. Leather bracelet, $295.
Panerai’s coveted Luminor Submersible in titanium with black rubber strap, $7,400.
Add to Mom’s collection or start a stack today deliciously colorful bangles from Ippolita (with names like Rock Candy and Lollipop, who can resist?). Starting at $1,495 (in 18K yellow gold).
From renowned designer David Yurman. Sterling silver and diamond ‘Infinity’ earrings, $1,950. ‘Infinity’ diamond ring, $1,100. Layered look eight strand necklace in sterling silver accented with diamond balls, $2,250. ‘Infinity’ diamond enhancer, $2,950.
Add a splash of color to her jewelry wardrobe with a pair of these fun hoop earrings in sterling silver. Choose from ruby, sapphire or green garnet, accented with white topaz. Each, $259. Stackable stainless steel bracelets in ruby, sapphire and green garnet, some styles with diamond accents. Priced from $99.99 to $139.99 each.
Bring sparkle and sophistication to her life with the Michele Urban diamond watch (with diamond bracelet), $2,195.
Italian de designer Marco Bicego’s dramatic ‘Ja ‘Jaipur’ collection in 18K yellow go gold. Earrings, $1,450. Necklace, $2,180. $ Ring, $2,290. The ‘Fontaine’ necklace by designer Judith Ripka in sterling silver features ‘heart’ stations accented with 18K yellow gold and diamonds. A stunning way to say ‘l love you,’ $550. Make a statement with faceted black onyx jewelry from Judith Ripka’s ‘Contempo’ collection. Set in sterling silver with 18K yellow gold accents. Enhancer, $650. Ring, $650. Both pieces pair well with the designer’s ‘Ambrosia’ bracelet with onyx, mother of pearl, hematite, crystal and white sapphires, $1,950.
Spectacular diamond hoops from Roberto Coin feature almost three carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, $6,100.
Stack up sophisticated style from Italian designer Roberto Coin. The ‘Primavera’ bracelet in your choice of white, yellow or rose 18K gold with diamonds, $1,900 each.
Inspired byy the dragon’s ccoat of mail, Hardy’s collection mail John Ha rdy’s Naga coll is striking in sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. Earrings, $495. Chain, $275. Pendant, $895.
ACCENTADVISOR
HOW DO I MIX FINE AND FASHION JEWELRY?
I’VE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF BLACK USED IN FINE JEWELRY. WHAT ARE THE KEY
Use a pretty black dress or a simple top as the backdrop for mixing pieces. Wear a gold medallion
STONES AND METALS, AND HOW CAN I WEAR THEM?
pendant along with multiple chains in blackened and tonal antiqued base metal. Or you can mix in real baroque pearls with a large colored pendant in crystal rather than a precious gem. A low-risk way to mix real and faux is on the wrist; you have more room to be playful as it’s further from your face. Here, mix leather or suede wrap styles with pavé charms, or Bakelite and wood with precious stones. Throw in some high karat gold thin bangles to create a truly eclectic look. This season, designers are even mixing these materials into one piece to offer a statement at an affordable price. But if you prefer simplicity, stick to a pair of cuffs in wood with center gemstones, and a mesh necklace with chains of matte gold. The combination will be different and dramatic, and take you through the season in style.
The trend started with designers adding a black rhodium finish to white gold and mixing it with high karat yellow gold for a richer look. As the darker metal began to sell and the prices for gold went up, the next step was to use blackened or highly oxidized silver. (Some designers still use black rhodium plated 18K white gold, which can mean a slightly higher price tag.) These metals look great with the of-the-moment diamonds—also black—which are spectacular in rose, brilliant and polished rough cuts. Black can be done in styles from gothic to feminine, such as pavé leaves and flowers with a black diamond center. If you want to add color to your black jewelry look, try a hint of rough cut fancy sapphires, the pretty watercolor shades of moonstones and aquamarines, or the
IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY
more saturated orange hues of citrines.
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RED CARPET
Shining Stars AWARDS SEASON PROVIDES A PLETHORA OF CELEBRITY EYE CANDY BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
Amy Adams
Kim Kardashian
W
ith a smile like that, who needs jewelry? Halle Berry and her earrings were radiant at the 13th Annual Costume Designer Guild Awards, held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. Take your spring style cue from her and try a piece that mixes different stone colors and metal tones. Here, white and champagne diamonds set in black and yellow gold are subtle, but so-right-now. At the Vanity Fair Campaign Hollywood 2011 Kick-off with Chrysler, Amy Adams chose a classic earring shape with a modern twist. Her textured hoops in blackened gold were an unexpected surprise peeking out from underneath those perfectly tousled waves. Reality star Kim Kardashian rocked a bold yellow gold choker and simple studs at the People’s Choice Awards in L.A.’s Nokia Theater. While her show, Keeping Up With the Kardashians, won the award for TV’s Guiltiest Pleasure, her Art Nouveau-inspired necklace was our pick for eye-catching accessory.
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JEWELRY THIS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: AMRAPALI, HELLMUTH, RINA LIMOR
Halle Berry
RED CARPET
LeAnn Rimes
Nicky Hilton
She plays the love interest of a devilish serial killer on Showtime’s Dexter, but Julia Stiles looked heavenly in star-shaped stud earrings at the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. A dramatic ruffle and bold fuchsia lips—both huge trends this spring—made for stellar red carpet style. LeAnn Rimes sparkled in sequins at the Grammys. Head-to-toe metallic can be hard to accessorize, but her stacked gold bangles and mother of pearl earrings complemented instead of competed with her beautifully draped gown. It’s tough to contend with angel wings covered in peacock feathers, but at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Nicky Hilton’s diamond necklace and earrings were almost as jaw-dropping as the models. Almost.
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JEWELRY THIS PAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: H. STERN, AMRAPALI, MOUAWAD
Julia Stiles
6325 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield, MI . 248.539.3090 . www.mariasbridal.com
ESSAY
THE FAMILY PEARLS A
s the cathedral bells pealed, the “new” bride and her groom turned to walk down the aisle. My mother and I were in Manila to celebrate her sister’s golden wedding anniversary. The assembled crowd of stylish men and women had spent months consulting their embroiderers, modistes and tailors—all to design traditional butterfly-sleeved ternos and barongs tagalog that would comply with the “Native Dress” request engraved in gold on the invitation. While the keen-eyed could distinguish between piña that had been embroidered and tatted at one pet convent versus another, what really set the women apart were their pearls. My mother wore her prized princess length strand of golden 10 mm baroque natural (not cultured) pearls and her younger sister wore her stunning choker length strand of blue 8 mm natural pearls. But the real showstopper glowed on the bride—a perfectly matched 10 foot strand of creamy pink 6 mm natural pearls. As my aunt glided gracefully past us, she resembled my grandmother in the formal wedding portrait that hangs in the gallery of our family home in Manila. A few days earlier, upon arriving at the traditional Spanish-style hacienda, my mother and her younger sister chatted about fittings with their modistes and donations to the convents while I lingered in the gallery studying the family portraits. At the very end stood the “lifesize” (at 5’10” I stand taller than the frame) oil painting of my maternal grandparents on their wedding day almost 75 years ago. The diminutive figures in the painting were resplendent in their native Filipino dress. I was struck by how realistically and beautifully the artist had rendered each pearl in my
grandmother’s necklace, which dramatically looped her tiny neck and grazed the hem of her dress. Upon my grandmother’s death, she left each of her daughters the parure in her birthstone—emeralds for my mother, rubies for her elder sister and sapphires for her younger sister—but she left the “family pearls” to all three of them. After consulting our family jeweler, who had brokered the original acquisition of this extraordinary single strand that had taken over 50 years to match, the sisters decided to separate the necklace into three equal strands, each finished with a new platinum clasp adorned with a ruby, an emerald and a sapphire to represent the three sisters. Over the years, as they dutifully had their pearls restrung annually, each one divided her strand and had the clasp reproduced to create a single strand with jeweled stations that could also be worn as nested strands, a shorter strand and a bracelet, or a choker with several bracelets. The “family pearls” (as my mother and her sisters always called them) had made many appearances over the years at various family events including weddings, christenings, anniversaries and even funerals. Once, as mother of the bride, my elder aunt had even worn her set combined with my younger aunt’s. But the entire original strand had never been reunited until that golden wedding anniversary. Almost another decade will pass before my own parents celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary—an event as rare and special as the pearls that will be worn to commemorate it. While high-definition video has long replaced oil portraits, the idea of several generations and one very beautiful necklace reuniting to celebrate a milestone will never become outdated.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO
REUNITED AND IT FEELS SO GOOD BY JOSEPH UNGOCO
TRENDS
The Joy of Jewelry COLORFUL GEMS FIT FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
THE GEMS Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple, are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures, he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality at affordable prices.
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IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN
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his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the direction of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color. Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way to do that.”
LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down
“This year, you’re also going to see more engagement ring center stones in blues and greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back in 1981, when she received the engagement ring from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great option for women who don’t want to be too ‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem of great color.” At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neongreen tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges, all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it represents a definite style direction.” In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are also premiering dazzling fashion collections with great green gems, especially green tourmalines, peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates, green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.” The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of The Pantone Color Institute, which named ‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really works well as a neutral and we see people more inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says. This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as its number-one fashion color and, for spring/summer, the passion for purple continues, with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry designers are showing violet gem creations in everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and quartzes.
the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you have another option. Instead of investing in one massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be to buy several long chains and links that can each be doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can experiment and create many different looks, for both daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces, graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In this season of bold color, choose one with a bright gemstone center. EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these supersized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only accessory. GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck. It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom, allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in the way natural light shines through a stained glass window. MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve been wearing forever, this is the season to start collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If you want to stick to karat gold for your precious metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold colors to choose from: rose, blackened and sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece slightly changes the look of the color. (For example, a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe, you’ll see how all the shades really do work together. And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of jewelry is collecting it over time.
FIVE TO BUY Now that you know what these post-winter pickme-up colors and coordinating gemstones are, which jewelry pieces in particular should you be considering? Ultimately that depends on your individual style as well as what jewelry you already own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we highly recommend: BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item adorning spring runway models was the big bangle, and they usually wore two or three per arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured stones, beads, or some sort of bright embellishment.
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HIS SIDE
Romancing the Stone MY ROCKY EXPERIENCES BUYING JEWELRY FOR GIRLFRIENDS BY MICHAEL GIULIETTI
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was 10 and at an Italian ski resort the first time I gave jewelry to a female. She was 18, beautiful, and to prove my love, I left a gift of shiny dark purple beads by her door, a bold move I was sure would make up for our eight-year age difference. She sweetly accepted the gift but turned down my proposal of undying devotion. Heartbroken, I was not yet aware that this would be the last time I’d give a gift of jewelry without trepidation. While dating Jen, a professional dancer, I considered buying her a ring but quickly decided it would represent a commitment I wasn’t ready to make. Instead, I chose an ornate crystal choker that ended up being so tight that it cut off her air supply. Although she had left magazines open to pages featuring her favorite jewelry designer, I’d been oblivious to these not-sosubtle hints. We broke up six months later. I soon met Arianna. For her birthday, I purchased a Turkish handcrafted sterling silver necklace with a carved pendant. Upon careful examination, the carving revealed a well-endowed naked man with open arms. Aware of possible misinterpretations, I worried: Was I showing sexual insecurity? Was it in really bad taste? But when I gave it to Arianna, she was delighted and wore the piece close to her heart. Ultimately the guy in the carving would remain in her life a lot longer than I would. Moving to New York from my native Milan, I started dating Bettina, a style writer who dragged me to esoteric jewelry exhibits at various museums. “I don’t want to see a bunch of jewelry,” I protested in response to a Castellani exhibit. “But it’s as much your heritage as the Vatican and its frescoes,” Bettina replied as I marveled at the intricate pieces behind the glass cases. The word for ‘jewel’ in Italian is related to ‘joy’ and I wanted to give Bettina a sense of gioia di vivere. She loves rose cut diamonds, so I picked out a pair of stones and had them made into drop earrings, one-of-a-kind, just like her. It’s the closest I’ve come to truly committing to a woman with a gift of jewelry. And while I’m now more adept at taking hints, I’m still hoping to recapture the courageous young boy who declared his feelings with unabashed audacity and an open heart.
FASHION
IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
SUBSTANTIAL PENDANTS PROVIDE PERFECT CONTRAST TO PRETTY PRINTS
Runways
From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS TEMPERED A
KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLORS
ON SPRING 2011 RUNWAYS ACROSS THE GLOBE. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
FASHION LAYER HEARTS OVER LACE FOR AN ON-TREND VINTAGE LOOK
A LITTLE SHINE GOES A LONG WAY…
MOONSTONE MANIA! THESE COOL STONES ARE HOT FOR SPRING
Runways
From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS
PROFILE Mikimoto strands are world-renowned for their perfectly matched pearls; this process becomes exponentially more difficult when strands are longer.
Timeless Beauty
MIKIMOTO CULTURED PEARLS—A PERFECT BALANCE OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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A Unique History
After many years of trials and tribulations, Kokichi Mikimoto succeeded in creating the world’s first cultured pearl in 1893. He then sent artisans on missions to Europe to master the techniques of jewelry production and design. This knowledge, supplemented by the Japanese aesthetics of form, line and workmanship, produced the distinctive originality of Mikimoto designs. In 1899, equipped with his first collection, Mr. Mikimoto opened the first Mikimoto Pearl Store, Japan’s first specialty pearl shop, in Tokyo’s Ginza district. After improving his cultivating and harvesting techniques, he was able to ship his product overseas, making cultured pearls available to women around the world.
IMAGES COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO
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f all the love stories over the ages, does anything beat the intensity of Cleopatra and Marc Antony? Betting him that she could consume the wealth of an entire nation in one meal, Cleopatra removed a pearl earring, crushed it, and drank the powder mixed with wine. Under her spell and hopelessly enchanted, Antony neglected his duties to the Roman Empire, thus changing forever the course of history. Since ancient times, pearls have indeed symbolized everything from purity of love to victory in battle. From symbol of chastity to mystical aphrodisiac, pearls have reflected the power of love. Worn by ancient Greeks at their wedding ceremonies to ensure marital bliss (and prevent new brides from crying), pearls are worn today by modern brides for strangely similar reasons. After all this time, pearls still represent innocence, sophistication and timeless beauty. In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto successfully created the world’s first cultured pearl, launching today’s cultured pearl industry and making cultured pearls available to women all over the world. The company is internationally respected for its dedication to beauty and quality. Since each pearl is as different and individual as a fingerprint, quality grading standards are essential. Mikimoto has maintained the highest standards of quality and consistency by devoting more than a century to understanding the sea and researching the oyster. They’ve developed a proprietary grading system,
unique within the cultured pearl industry. Although no single factor can solely represent the worth of a pearl, luster and surface perfection are most important. There are four Mikimoto grades: A, A+, AA and AAA, with AAA being the highest quality. A mere three to five pearls out of every 100 harvested are deemed worthy to bear the Mikimoto name. While there is nothing more cherished than a classic strand of Mikimoto pearls, numerous fashion options abound. For 2011, these include:
LONGER STRANDS Ranging in length from 32 to an astounding 100 inches, these longer strands are the perfect accessory and a wonderful gift for today’s modern woman. Taking the classic beauty of a traditional choker to a whole new level, these versatile strands, whether worn for day or evening, alone or layered with another piece of jewelry, add glamour to any occasion. Not only a unique fashion look, these long strands truly showcase the superior quality for which Mikimoto is revered. Each strand is a work of art, requiring incredible skill, judgment and craftsmanship. Mikimoto strands are worldrenowned for their perfectly matched pearls and this process becomes exponentially more difficult when strands are longer. Demanding the finest judgment and artistic sense, only Mikimoto has the ability to sort and match such long lengths of pearls.
PEARLS IN MOTION
contrast to the classic, feminine elegance of white pearls, Mikimoto Black South Seas are pearls with attitude, emitting an air of confidence. Day or night, from the boardroom to the runway, Black South Sea pearls are the perfect complement to any outfit, and an icon of style and taste. Because of their breathtaking natural hues, fashion mavens and connoisseurs alike consider Mikimoto’s Black South Sea cultured pearls to be among the most distinctive of all gems. With their hypnotic depth of color ranging from light gray to peacock green to midnight black, these treasures of the sea seem lit from within, conferring a remarkable radiance and sophistication upon those fortunate enough to wear them. In 1914, Kokichi Mikimoto established a culturing site for Black South Sea pearl oysters on Ishigaki Island in Okinawa, Japan. Since that time, the brand has remained the authority on Black South Sea cultured pearls of the highest quality. Almost a century later, Black South Sea jewelry remains a formidable fashion trend as style-savvy consumers are embracing these gems as never before. Mikimoto’s international design team uses Black South Sea cultured pearls to create jewels of impeccable style and quality, from a perfectly-matched choker to a multi-colored 45” strand that can be layered or wrapped.
CARING FOR PEARLS
The rules are simple:
Wipe gently with a soft cloth after wearing and store separately so they don’t get scratched. Remember: pearls are organic gemstones, and thus vulnerable to acid, alkaline and humidity. That said, pearls beg to be worn; left alone in a box they risk dehydration, so wear them often and flaunt your elegance and style!
With Pearls in Motion, the possibilities are unlimited. This unique concept in jewelry design offers the versatility to wear Mikimoto cultured pearls in an infinite number of ways. Place the cultured pearls anywhere along the slim, elegant chain. The gems will remain in place thanks to Mikimoto’s exclusive, patented mechanism.
BLACK SOUTH SEA Mikimoto Black South Sea cultured pearls, with their exotic origins and mysterious color palette, are a versatile must-have for today’s trendsetters looking to make an edgy fashion statement. In direct
BAROQUE COUTURE COLLECTION
The natural beauty of Mikimoto’s Baroque South Sea cultured pearls is derived from their superb luster and irregular, yet beautiful, silhouettes. The unique organic shapes of these pearls make them a constant marvel to behold, a true fashion statement and conversation piece. Baroque Couture is a collection of one-of-a-kind Mikimoto jewelry inspired by the Baroque pearl. The Baroque Couture Collection uses the distinctive shape and size of each individual pearl as the subject of each exclusive design. Nature determines the setting and Mikimoto designers fulfill each pearl’s destiny. Says Amy Kim-Araneo, Mikimoto’s vice president of product development and design: “Designing baroque pearl jewelry is incredibly exciting and challenging because no two pearls are alike, so each piece takes on its own personality. The unique shape of each pearl truly dictates the design…as if it knows what it wants to be. The organic, fluid designs of Baroque Couture really conform to the body and showcase a more modern, less traditional look in pearl jewelry.”
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THE BEST WAY TO BUY A DIAMOND IS CONFIDENTLY. C arat Weight: 1.53
C olor Grade: E
C larity Grade: VS1
C ut Grade: Excellent Laser Inscription Registry Number: GIA 16354621 Shape & Cutting Style: Round Brilliant Natural Diamond: Not Synthetic
Beauty is one thing, but certainty is everything. A GIA report is the most technologically advanced diamond evaluation possible. It gives you a unique blueprint of your diamond’s attributes and an indisputable record of its quality. As creators of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA is known for the kind of unbiased scientific information that has guided diamond buyers for generations. To learn more about this unique resource, please visit W W W. G I A 4 C S . G I A . E D U
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING.
ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011
getty 1 / Peter Dazeley
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
IS IT OKAY TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH?
IMAGE COURTESY OF TW STEEL
If you love it, why not?
Unless you’re talking about a tacky plastic watch, most of today’s better sports watches are thin enough to wear as an everyday watch, and offer features that most of us appreciate even at home or in the office. These can include water resistance, built-in chronographs, readable dials and various subdials, calendars and other complications. That said, there’s nothing classier than a beautiful dress watch and for spring 2011, classical elegance is all the rage. Our suggestion: build a watch wardrobe that includes both sports and dress watches and alternate according to the occasion, and your mood.
WHAT ARE MECHANICAL WATCHES AND WHY ARE THEY SO EXPENSIVE?
As opposed to quartz watches that function electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a spring which must be periodically wound. A series of gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back and forth at a constant rate. A device called an escapement releases the wheels with each swing of the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine materials. But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!
I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950 S ; IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?
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T H E D E C I S I O N T O R E S T O R E A V I N TA G E T I M E P I E C E is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless. That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen. In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in some cases, make the part by hand. Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement. 40
raymond-weil.com
| freelancer collection
WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
I'M ABOUT TO INVEST IN A WATCH AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ITS COMPLICATIONS. CAN YOU HELP? Moon Phase Subdial Strap
30-Minute Register for Chronograph Second Counter for Chronograph
Lug Hour Marker or Index
Repeating Slide (Chimes Time Aloud When Activated)
Start/Stop for Chronograph Minute Hand
Hour Hand Crown
Second Hand
Date Indicator
Day of Week Indicator Year Indicator
Reset for Chronograph
Bezel
Month Indicator
Dial (Below the Hands)
ILLUSTRATION BY HARRY BATES; INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOHN HORNE
12-Hour Register for Chronograph
Crystal (Above the Hands)
Understanding the parts and functions of a timepiece can help you select the style that’s right for you. It’s also helpful later, when your watch requires service or repair. This particular model has both time-telling and time-keeping capabilities. The chronograph, for time-keeping, is essentially an advanced stopwatch. 42
IMPERIALE COLLECTION
by Laurie Kahle
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FASHIONABLY ON TIME
CURVES AHEAD The French word délice translates to delight, an emotion that Cartier intends to conjure with its new ladies’ watch collection, Délices de Cartier, which launches in June. Comparing the lozenge-shaped watch to a baker’s confection, Cartier once again demonstrates its design mastery by manipulating basic shapes to present something new and aesthetically intriguing. By positioning the smoothly-tapered, oval-shaped case on the diagonal across the wrist, designers created a curvaceous and feminine timepiece available in three sizes in 18K rose or white gold. The watch exudes a different personality depending on whether you choose the shimmering gold bracelet or sleek toile strap, and, of course, with varying amounts of brilliant-cut diamonds sprinkled on the case and dial. Amid Cartier’s highly impressive lineup of innovative complicated timepieces this year, Délices de Cartier is a chic reminder of the simple pleasure of a beautiful design.
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With its soft lines and subtle alternating finishes, the Linea is a timeless icon of femininity that naturally becomes associated with life’s most beautiful highlights. Each Linea is fitted with an interchangeable strap.www.baume-et-mercier.com
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LINE DANCE
PORTOFINO PORTFOLIO
Baume & Mercier revisits its Linea collection this year, updating the fashiondriven model with a fresh outlook for a new era. Originally launched in the 1980s, Linea has been modernized with a new, larger dimension, a mix of polished and satin finishes, and a redesigned bracelet, which can easily be changed to suit your whims on any given day. Switch from a metal bracelet to black satin, black calfskin, or a stylish wraparound brown calfskin strap without having to use a tool, thanks to a clever new clasp. You can also opt between a 27mm or 32mm case, a choice of black, mother of pearl, or silvertoned dials, and a bezel with or without diamonds. From a functional point of view, Linea has added a date and offers a quartz chronograph version which tracks elapsed minutes, seconds and tenths of seconds on three counters. The showstoppers of the collection are the 32mm models with mother of pearl dials that come with an additional black satin or calfskin strap. These top-of-the-line pieces offer a choice between a mechanical automatic movement with a sapphire crystal case back showcasing its decorated rotor, or a quartz chronograph that sparkles with 1.4 carats of diamonds set on the bezel and bracelet.
IWC recaptures the free spirit of la dolce vita with a revamped Portofino line that evokes the glamour and allure of the famed seaside village that has been a jet-set hotspot since the 1950s. This year, IWC focused its attention on the brand’s entry-level, classic collection with four distinct models: an understated basic Automatic, a sporty Chronograph, a practical Dual Time for globetrotters, and the oversize Hand-Wound Eight Days model powered by a new IWCmanufactured movement that is the same size as a pocket watch movement. Hailed as the flagship of the Portofino family, the rugged and reliable HandWound Eight Days pays homage to the original 1984 Portofino, which infused a wristwatch with classical pocket watch sensibilities. To mark the revitalization of the Portofino collection, IWC invited a dozen international celebrity fans—including Cate Blanchett, Kevin Spacey, Matthew Fox and Eric Dane—to participate in a photo shoot with famed photographer Peter Lindbergh, another high-profile IWC devotee. The stunning black-and-white shots portray a retro vibe as they depict a behindthe-scenes view of a movie set against the picturesque backdrop of Portofino. The resulting photos will be displayed in a traveling exhibition that will stop at prominent cities around the world. 46
DECO DIAMOND TRI TONE
by Joseph Ungoco
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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HAND-ME-DOWNS WELCOME A MILESTONE WATCH PASSED AMONG FAMILY GIVES THE PHRASE NEW MEANING.
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s my plane touched down at LAX, the pilot cheerily reminded us to set our watches back three hours to the local time. I glanced at my hand-me-down Rolex, my father’s stainless steel Air-King Oyster Perpetual, bought for his swearing in as a U.S. citizen on July 4, 1965. This watch had kept him on time for more than a decade. I honestly couldn’t recall the last time I had worn this watch on a plane, but this would be its last transcontinental crossing on my wrist. My father gave me “The Air-King”, his very first Rolex, on my 11th birthday. Two months prior, to commemorate his own birthday, he had “invested in” an 18 karat yellow gold and stainless steel Datejust with Jubilee bracelet, pulling ahead of his stainless steel-clad siblings in our family version of the Rolex Stakes. (The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand, but the ’80s brought my family’s obsession to a whole new level.) Later that year, my father took me with him to the watchmaker’s shop, where we had the Air-King cleaned, the crystal polished, and the luminous hour markers and hands repainted—an annual tradition. Just as I thought we were ready to leave, the watchmaker came forward with a green leather box stamped with a gold coronet. Inside was the
matching women’s version of my father’s new watch. That summer, my mother handed her stainless steel Rolex with the Oyster bracelet—an engagement present from my father—down to her younger sister for her birthday. Years later, before my 30th birthday, I called my watch dealer about buying myself a special watch—perhaps a brand new Submariner. But when I arrived at his shop, he had found the perfect tribute to my milestone birthday: a watch exactly as old as me. It was a mint condition 1969 18 karat yellow gold Rolex Date with graduated Oyster bracelet. Its South American seller swore it had sat untouched in his father’s safety deposit box for at least 25 years! I was assured that after a quick swipe of my credit card, a slightly longer FBI check (for the watch, not me) and a thorough inspection (again for the watch), this gorgeous timepiece would be mine. My “new” Rolex arrived just in time to accompany me to my birthday party. I lived happily with my Rolexes for several years, until the event that prompted this story: my godson’s birthday. The fourth of six boys, he was well acquainted with the phrase “hand-me-down”, but I think that my present to him that day—a green leather box with a gold coronet, the Air-King safely tucked inside—may have changed his opinion of that phrase forever. At least I hope so…
The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand.
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CEO GOLIATH THE NEW
COLLECTION
SPEED
Grand Sport THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY BY DAVID A. ROSE
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on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born. Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956, many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550 Spyder identical to the one James Dean planned to race 55 years ago. Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages of coffee table books, in museums or in movies. Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is Top: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. Center left: A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham Wallis. Center right: Some of the many cars raced or built by Dan Gurney. Bottom right: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno.
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t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of the car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-
Left: Luc Slijpen from the Netherlands stands next to his original, unrestored 1925 Type 35 Bugatti. Bottom left: Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence. Below: Patrick Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP.
fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these magnificent events.” Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13 countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.) At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American
racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula 1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in 1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa Francorchamps in the beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and admiration of peers and race fans around the world. As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport, and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.” Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy as we were,” said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each other and new generations appreciating similar things.” The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a showcase for luxury and glamour. Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions, cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to enjoy. The week-long festival of automobile culture culminates with the internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where some of the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function, history and style. As trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo and participants head for home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable.
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PROPOSALS
Gloves at the Shoe M
e, the dental hygienist and lifelong Ohio State girl; Daniel, the dental student and die-hard Notre Dame boy. I always thought “it” would happen after he moved to Indiana, where he planned to practice dentistry in the shadows of the Golden Dome of Notre Dame. We had a date to celebrate Daniel’s completion of his dental school clinical requirements, and he kept the location a secret. He mentioned that he needed to stop by his office, located in Ohio State University’s Ohio Stadium (The Horseshoe), after dinner to drop off a Secret Santa gift for the exchange he would not be able to attend. The night began innocently enough at Burgundy Room, a trendy wine and tapas restaurant. Surprisingly we hadn’t been there since our first date. Daniel pretended to be shocked too. After dinner we made our way to campus to drop off the “gift.” I noticed the stadium lights were on; the lights are never on. Daniel looked at me with mischievous eyes. “Do you think we can sneak onto the field?” I balked, not wanting to get in trouble. We made our way to the north stadium entrance and the padlock was open. Daniel exclaimed with confidence, “It’s open… C’mon, Hayley!” I was carrying Daniel’s Secret Santa gift as we walked down the ramp onto the field. I couldn’t believe I was doing this, putting my head down, trying not to get caught. Despite my protest, we finally got to the 50-yard line, right inside the Block O, and faced each other. (You may need to be an Ohio State fan to realize how big of a deal it is to be inside the Block O, let
alone getting a Notre Dame graduate to join you.) “Crazy, isn’t it?” Daniel said, glancing around the stadium. I thought to myself, “I can’t wait to tell everyone that we snuck into the Shoe!” I was cold at this point. My fingers were numb and he knew it. He smiled. “Why don’t you open that present? I’ll get another one for the party; it’ll be an early Christmas present. I got it in Italy and you look like you could use them about now.” I eagerly began ripping into the package, and before I could even lift the lid, my frigid hands dropped the box. Finally, I opened the box and my breath faltered. Leather gloves, black and tan, from Florence, Italy. Gorgeous. But it was the sparkle that emanated from the third finger on the left glove that stunned me. I was so surprised; he was down on one knee, there was a ring, and I was saying yes. We hugged, we twirled, we laughed; he yelled at his friend, hiding out in the stands, to come down to take more photos. He arranged for it all: the lights, open padlock, hidden photographer… the whole nine yards, pun intended. Jewelry is inextricably connected to life’s most memorable moments. The Jewelry Information Center’s Ultimate Proposal Contest allowed couples nationwide to submit their special proposal stories at www.JIC.org. Consumers entered more than 1,200 stories and over 6,000 people cast their votes over 10 days. Winner Hayley Wood and her fiancé Daniel won a trip for two to Santorini, Greece, along with a stunning platinum diamond necklace.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF JIC
A WINNING ENGAGEMENT MOMENT BY HAYLEY WOOD
FIRST PERSON
Lucky Charms W
hen it comes to wearing jewelry for good luck, I’m not one to break with tradition. In ancient times Nordic soldiers wore runes to protect themselves during battle. In Cleopatra’s days, amulets of scarabs, rounded on one side and bearing words or images of blessing on the other, were symbols of renewal and prosperity. Even in modern times, our accessories symbolize good luck: Peruse jewelry in a Turkish bazaar, or even a shop in New York City’s East Village, and you’ll find numerous little nazars literally looking back at you with bands of concentric color—expressions of protection from the evil eye. But not all jewels derive their status as “lucky charms” from cultural mythology. Sometimes, it’s more personal. My mother, for example, has been known to sleep with her lucky pin on when her football team needs a big win. And these days, I’ve got my own personal talisman as well. Last Thanksgiving my grandmother gave all her grandchildren, including me, quite a surprise. She said, “I was planning to leave my jewelry for you after I pass on. But instead, I want to give it to you now, for the pleasure of sharing.” To my sister she gave a large opal ring that sparks green and gold like fireflies on a midsummer’s night. To my brother she offered her father’s ring: a gutsy red garnet set in a geometric Art Deco band. And to me, for no reason other than the fact that I was her first
grandchild, she gave her engagement ring—the ring that has been catching my eye over crumb cakes and knitting needles since I was born. The band is a buttery matte gold, soft and romantic like a close-up of a heroine from an old movie. The diamond is princess cut, clear and full of flame. An engagement ring may not be a universal symbol of good luck, but to me, this particular ring is very lucky. Here’s why. When my grandparents first got married, there was no engagement ring. My Pop and Gram were both from working class families: My grandmother’s dad was a city cop who married an Irish-Catholic orphan. My grandfather’s parents were vaudeville hopefuls who never made it big but who look brilliantly happy in the one photograph of them that remains. It wasn’t until my grandparents’ 30th anniversary that Pop got down on one knee, with a real engagement ring this time, and asked, “Will you marry me?” Decades later, they’re still together. My fiancé likes to say, “You make your own luck,” meaning that scarabs, runes or family heirlooms won’t change a person’s fate. And he’s probably right. But my grandmother’s ring gives me joy, strength and hope. And what is a lucky charm, if not a symbol of those things? Call me superstitious, but when I walk down the aisle next summer, I’ll be wearing my grandmother’s ring—my private and personal little token of good fortune. Just in case.
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TRUNK ARCHIVE / HORACIO SALINAS
JUST IN CASE… BY LISA DALE
Finally, a navigation system without that annoying voice.
“I’m not saying a word.” Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.
Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) | Flyback function | Automatic IWC double-pawl winding system | Date display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel
© D.YURMAN 2011
TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2011