ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2012
CELEBRATE SPRING!
Fashion Favorites Watchmaking: The Next Generation Last Bid for Love
INSIDE:
MEET MARCO BICEGO
SOMERSET COLLECTION, TROY
ORCHARD MALL, WEST BLOOMFIELD
TWELVE OAKS MALL, NOVI
DEARFRIENDS, As spring breathes new life into the world around us, we at Tapper’s are reflecting on the exciting new opportunities that lie ahead for our business. Next month, we will be introducing a new brand concept, Marlee’s by Tapper’s, which will open in Twelve Oaks Mall with a focus on sophisticated, stylish, highquality women’s accessories at a very appealing price point. This issue features a special introduction to Marlee’s written by Marla Tapper Young and Leora Tapper, the faces and voices behind the new venture. The vibrant hues of spring flowers beginning to peek through the frozen ground are mirrored by the beautiful new designs in fine jewelry, precision timepieces and gifts that you will find in the pages of Accent and at all three Tapper’s locations. Bursting with color and sparkle, you will find a dazzling array of choices as you look for gifts that will Mark the Moment® of Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the many graduations that take place at this time of the year. We recently “sprung forward,” setting our watches to Daylight Savings Time. In this issue of Accent, we are excited to present a special section devoted to the design and history of some of the most prestigious and trendsetting watch brands in the world, all of which you can find at Tapper’s. Enjoy your journey through Accent and by all means, please take some time to smell the flowers as they begin to bloom! Sincerely,
Howard Tapper
Steven Tapper
Mark Tapper
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Marla Tapper Young
Contents spring/summer 2012
DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY WEST BLOOMFIELD ORCHARD MALL 337 ORCHARD LAKE ROAD WEST BLOOMFIELD, MI 48322 PHONE: (248) 932-7700 FAX: (248) 932-7717 NOVI TWELVE OAKS MALL 27716 NOVI ROAD NOVI, MI 48377 PHONE: (248) 465-1800 FAX: (248) 465-1818
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TROY SOMERSET COLLECTION NORTH 2800 WEST BIG BEAVER TROY, MI 48084 PHONE: (248) 649-2000 FAX: (248) 649-5076 WWW.TAPPERS.COM
FEATURES
CEO HOWARD TAPPER
1 Welcome Letter
PRESIDENT MARK TAPPER
4 Community
VICE PRESIDENTS STEVEN TAPPER MARLA TAPPER YOUNG
6 Spotlight: Leading the Tapper’s Team 8 Happenings
C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R JEFFREY GARDEN
10 Introducing Marlee’s by Tapper’s
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ROBERT HUTTER
12 Best Bets
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R KARYNNE NAFTOLIN
22 Designers: Marco Bicego
GRAPHIC DESIGNER TRACIE VOLETTI
24 Designers: Penny Preville 26 Profile: Forevermark
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P
28 Profile: John Hardy
PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI
30 Red Carpet
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
32 Trends: Renewal 50 Perfect Gems 54 Spirits: Gin Blossoms
MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
56 Wellness: Haute Healthcare
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA
58 Travel: Eco-Immersion
DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
60 End Page: Last Bid for Love
PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE
WATCH SECTION
PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES
36 Watches at Tapper’s
CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON
38 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum 42 Winders: Winding it Up 46 Profile: Michele Watches 48 Collecting: Time on His Side
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Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions. Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-8528175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.
FOREVERMARK DIAMOND NECKLACE. COVER ILLUSTRATION BY DARIA JABENKO.
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER
COMMUNITY T APPE R’S 20TH ANN UAL C OAT D RIVE
Coats were distributed to many organizations, including Orchards Children’s Services, the Detroit Housing Commission, Detroit Public Schools, Baldwin Church Center, Grace Centers for Hope, Mercy Primary Care Center and Kids Kicking Cancer.
This year, Tapper’s annual coat drive surpassed any previous year’s goals by collecting and distributing close to 4,000 warm winter coats, gloves, hats, scarves and boots. This substantial increase in our totals was due in large part to a partnership with Morgan Stanley Smith Barney’s Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills and Troy offices, whose employees raised money internally and presented Tapper’s with a check for $16,018.20 to be used to purchase coats and other winter weather clothing items.
MAKING TIME FOR A GOOD CAUSE
In addition to funds raised by Morgan Stanley Smith Barney employees, Tapper’s customers donated hundreds of coats and made cash donations towards the coat drive. Steven Tapper reflected on the generosity of Morgan Stanley Smith Barney, as well as all of the customers and community members who supported the Tapper’s Coat Drive. “Every person who helped this coat drive, by collecting coats, donating money or going through their own closets, should realize that they made a tremendous difference in people’s lives this winter. Every child who is now walking to school with a coat, hat and gloves knows that someone cares about them, really cares, that they be warm and comfortable in the cold – that is the real gift.”
“Making Time for a Good Cause” is a Tapper’s charitable initiative which provides complimentary simple watch battery changes in exchange for a suggested minimum donation ($10) to charity*. The program benefits a different charity every quarter. Since the program’s inception almost two years ago, Tapper’s has raised thousands of dollars for causes such as Kids Kicking Cancer, the Detroit Public Schools, Tapper’s Coat Drive, the John D. Dingell VA Medical Center and the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation. “Springing forward” is the perfect opportunity to change your watch batteries and take advantage of this wonderful program, so gather your watches* together and head into any one of Tapper’s three locations to “make time for a good cause.” *
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Limit three watches per customer please.
SPOTLIGHT
LEADING THE TAPPER’S TEAM
One of the reasons that Tapper’s is able to provide such a high level of service to its clients is the company’s devotion to recruiting leaders in the field of luxury sales and service. “To be a part of the Tapper’s team,” explains Mark Tapper, President of Tapper’s Diamonds and Fine Jewelry, “you have to be a truly exceptional human being. We will accept nothing less than extraordinary from our team, because we want to provide that to our clients.”
PAUL RUJAN Manager, Tapper’s Somerset Collection. Five years with Tapper’s. The only member of the managerial triumvirate who hails from Michigan, Paul began his career at Tapper’s managing the company’s Twelve Oaks store, going on to become the first manager at the Somerset location which opened in 2010. A huge Detroit Lions fan, Paul came to Tapper’s with 23 years of sales, training and managerial experience, and he brings excitement, dedication and knowledge to his team every day. Paul continually expresses his appreciation for the fact that at Tapper’s, the primary focus is on providing excellent service to clients. “I am very passionate about what I do and really enjoy having fun with our clients, making sure that their experience at Tapper’s is uniquely wonderful.”
ROBERT ARTELT Manager, Tapper’s West Bloomfield. Two years with Tapper’s. Robert Artelt joins the Tapper’s management team with extensive experience in the world of luxury goods and service — as former Senior Vice President of Retail and Marketing for Mikimoto and Director of Fine Art Sales for Princess, Cunard and Holland America cruise lines. Having grown up in Chicago, joining Tapper’s brings Robert back to his Midwest roots, and he, his wife and daughter now call Michigan home. While in Chicago, Robert’s passion for charitable work was evident through his work with the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Chicago chapter of U.N.I.C.E.F., the M.S. Society and the Girl Scouts. When he’s not working and building relationships with his clients, Robert notes that “while music, dance and the arts keep our family busy [his wife is an opera singer], football is our favorite pastime.” Robert’s family follows college teams and, of course, the Detroit Lions. “Tapper’s is a wonderful family and organization,” says Robert, “which enables me to bring my worldwide experience not only to the company but to each of my clients, as well.”
ROBERT VIOLANTE Manager, Tapper’s Twelve Oaks Mall. Five months with Tapper’s. Originally a Southerner, Robert Violante began his career in his hometown of Atlanta, Georgia, where he was educated at Georgia Perimeter College and went on to join the Shane Company — a large, family-owned jeweler known nationally for their strength in the engagement ring business. While serving as manager of the Shane Company’s flagship store in Engelwood, Colorado, Robert was named Store Manager of the Year and was rewarded with the opportunity to practice with the Colorado Rockies and throw out the first pitch at a subsequent home game. “I’ve been a fan ever since,” confesses Robert. “Also, I got Tebowed — go Broncos!” The father of three children under six, Robert admits to being a “busy guy” at home — and even busier in his role at Tapper’s Twelve Oaks store in Novi. “I think that my greatest strength is the passion I have for developing a sales team and helping them achieve growth and consistency. I think that consistency is what separates a good manager from a great manager.” Go, Robert!
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PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53
Color Grade E
Clarity Grade VS1
Cut Grade
Excellent
Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621
Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
A GIA report is certainty from the source. As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific. A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality. Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu
THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.
HA PPENINGS PANE RISTI OF THE W ORLD UNITE!
A PASSION FO R DAVID YURMA N
In November, Tapper’s hosted an exclusive private client event at the Corner Bar at Birmingham’s tony Townsend Hotel to celebrate our relationship with Officine Panerai, the Italian watch company whose timepieces, originally designed for the Italian navy, have skyrocketed to celebrity status over the past decade.
Tapper’s West Bloomfield store hosted a wonderful evening devoted to a passion for David Yurman. Elegant hors d’oeuvres and cocktails were enjoyed by guests as the newest David Yurman designs were presented. A phenomenon in the world of style and fashion, David Yurman is internationally recognized as America’s leading designer of fine jewelry and luxury timepieces.
Months later, Tapper’s client base of Paneristi (already plural — think “biscotti” or “manicotti”) — those individuals whose passion is for all things Panerai — are still buzzing about this exciting evening. Panerai enthusiasts were treated to a sneak peek at special-edition timepieces from the 2011 Geneva launch, as well as the opportunity to enjoy fine wines, scotches and gourmet “man” fare such as fajitas and hand-carved meats. Mingling among the Paneristi (some of whom had traveled from out of state to attend) were Rafael Alvarez, President of Officine Panerai, Chris Sclafani, Tapper’s Panerai representative, as well as Tapper’s owners, buyers and associates. Steve Smith, head watch buyer for Tapper’s, noted that “guests arrived up to 30 minutes early for the event, just to be the first in line to try on one of the special-edition pieces.”
With a background as an artist, David Yurman has revolutionized the way people think about, wear and collect jewelry. Created in sterling silver, 18K gold, diamonds, precious gemstones, South Sea and Tahitian pearls, David Yurman’s masterpieces are collected by women and men around the world. Shop the David Yurman collection at our Twelve Oaks Mall (Novi) and West Bloomfield locations.
We invite you to view a wonderful selection of Panerai timepieces at our West Bloomfield and Somerset locations.
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W E LCOME! to M ar lee’s b y Tap p e r’ s We could not be more excited to introduce you to Marlee’s by Tapper’s, a new concept in styling and accessories. As sisters-in-law, we are really close and do almost everything together. We love to travel, cook, and most of the time just hang out and talk. And, like most women, we also love to shop together! Leora Tapper and Marla Tapper Young Because we work so closely together at Tapper’s, we developed a vision to open a store — somewhere we would love to shop. We are always looking for ways to update our looks with minimal investment. We thought it would be so much fun to create a space where friends, mothers and daughters, sisters (or sisters-in-law!) could shop together and have fun finding new ways to update their styles. The two of us LOVE to style each other — and although we have different tastes, each of us has our own unique sense of fashion. We both share a love for jewelry, accessories and business, and that’s how the idea for Marlee’s was born. One of us will throw a cashmere scarf and long necklace on the other, and our look (and mood) will shift in an instant! That feeling is precisely what Marlee’s is going to offer; our stylists will always be available to show you how to wear something new and integrate it with what you already own. It’s so much easier to be adventurous with style if someone shows you how. We love the creativity of shopping anywhere from art galleries to street artists, discovering interesting and unique types of jewelry and accessories made of different, sometimes unexpected materials. Everything we have at Marlee’s will be like that one “amazing” find you made at a weekend art show in the park. You’ll notice on this page that our motif contains four hearts, each representing a different idea: people, culture, place and craft. We have been searching the world for unique and fabulous items, but there will also be a significant part of our store devoted to Michigan-based designers and products. Our state is home to such a wealth of innovation in the world of fashion, design and style; we’re really looking forward to the opportunity to showcase this local talent. Whether you are 25 or 65, we promise that you will find something at Marlee’s that’s going to excite you. When we are selecting accessories for Marlee’s, first and foremost we pay attention to detail. Whether we’re looking at jewelry, handbags, sunglasses, belts or scarves, we inspect every aspect of how the item is made to ensure that we will be providing our clients with only the finest quality and craftsmanship. Every piece you see in our store is something that we would each want to own personally. We can’t wait to see you when we open our doors this May at Twelve Oaks Mall in Novi. We invite you to come in, look around,
XOXO
Marla & Leora
FAR FROM
MELLOWYELLOW THE FIERY BEAUTY OF FANCY YELLOW DIAMONDS COMES TO LIFE IN RINGS SO SPECTACULAR, THEY WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.
Rare and unique, fancy yellow diamonds are an unexpected guest at the gemstone soiree. Cut correctly, a fancy yellow diamond will look as if someone has captured the essence of the sun and placed it directly on your finger. Tapper’s is proud to be a direct importer of fancy yellow diamonds. Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist at (248) 932-7700 in order to schedule a private viewing.
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Perhaps that is the reason that they’ve become the classic choice of accessory to complement a bride’s wedding attire. Mikimoto is renowned for crafting timeless, elegant pearl jewelry using the finest pearls in the world. Only the best cultured pearls (5% of all pearls) are deemed worthy enough to carry the Mikimoto name. A perfect choice for the graduate, the new bride or for Mother’s Day, a gift of pearls is certain to be cherished for years to come.
Lariat necklace with diamond clasp, $6,590 Pearl bracelet, $1,080 Pearl and diamond studs, $1,040 Classic pearl strand with pearl clasp, $3,280. Matching studs, $600
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PEA RL S ,G LORIOUSPEARLS
In ancient Greece, it was believed that pearls were associated with marital harmony.
FROM TAPPER’S
T IMELESSMOMENTS A COLLECTION OF DIAMOND RINGS THAT TRANSCEND THE ORDINARY
Because your love for each other is precious and unique, Tapper’s has created a signature line of diamond engagement rings, Tapper’s Timeless Moments, that transcends the ordinary. While three distinct collections within the line offer different styles and influence, every Timeless Moments engagement ring evokes a classic look with a modern interpretation. With the assistance of one of our highly trained diamond specialists, you are certain to find the ring of your dreams within the Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection. A direct diamond importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and quality for diamonds as radiant as your love.
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or anniversary band has no beginning and no end. What happens in between those two points, however, is simply a matter of style! Dramatic, elegant, refined…whatever you decide.
with a stunning precious band from Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection? This page features a selection of the styles we have available, but literally hundreds more are ready and waiting to greet you at one of our three convenient locations. Not sure which look is right for you? One of our experienced associates will be delighted to help you discover the perfect ring – the one that says “I forever do.”
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THEB ANDS
This year, why not renew your love (or declare it for the first time)
S TRIKE UP
A symbol of eternal love and commitment, a wedding
W H A T ’ S ALL THE
HOOPLA
A
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A BOUT ?
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F
D
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If you’re looking for a spring trend, here it is: hoops are a great new look to add to your wardrobe this season. Stick with a traditional look or opt for a funkier interpretation of the classic hoop earring — upside down or twisted, anyone? A. Diamond hoops in 14K, $2,999 B. Diamond huggies in 14K, $1,899 C. Roberto Coin diamond hoops in 18K, $4,300 D. Ippolita hoops in sterling silver with quartz, $495 E. Diamond hoops in 18K rose gold, $1,499 F. Lana earrings in 14K, $280 G. Lana hoops with emeralds in 14K, $1,380 H. Two-tone hoops in 14K, $549 I. Penny Preville diamond and sapphire hoops, $4,355 J. John Hardy sterling silver bamboo hoops, $325
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J
DO YOU
STACK
UP? The beauty of bangles is that you can easily
create a completely different look by adding, subtracting or mixing and matching. For a modern look, wear bangles from different designers that have a common theme — silver with amethyst, for example, from John Hardy and Ippolita, make a remarkably good looking couple. Or choose yellow gold, white gold and a couple of two-tone bangles to bridge the gap! Add sparkle and glamour with diamonds and gemstones, or keep the look straightforward and simple with gold or silver. Top to bottom: Roberto Coin, $3,300 Ippolita, $325 Spotlight Collection by Tapper’s in black and white diamonds, $4,999 John Hardy, $495 Gregg Ruth, $10,870 Ippolita, $1,795 Charles Krypell, $1,255 Penny Preville, $10,905 Gurhan, $795
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America’s leading fine jewelry and luxury watch brand. Artistic inspiration is at the very core of the company’s foundation. Fusing art, fashion and fine jewelry into a signature design concept was nothing short of revolutionary within the jewelry industry.
From the left: CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and blue topaz, $2,650 RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and moon quartz, $375 CABLE WRAP RING Blackened sterling silver and lemon citrine, $1,450 RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $375 PETITE WHEATON RING Sterling silver and prasiolite, $450 RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and Hampton blue topaz, $375 CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $1,700
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CLASSIC WATCH 30MM Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $5,200 CLASSIC WATCH 30MM 18K gold case with integrated cable, $30,000
CLASSIC WATCH 38MM Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $6,200 DUO TONE CLASSIC WATCH 38MM Stainless steel/18K gold case with integrated cable, $8,000
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SPOTLIG HT F D C
E
A. Be my jelly bean…or wear a sweet Michele watch by the same name. In rose stainless steel with white rubber strap, $345. B. Just in time – the sporty G-Shock Casio watch, $260.
TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTION G
It’s not always black or white – sometimes the occasion calls for both! Dramatic jewelry in black and white diamonds set in 14K white gold. C. Pendant, $1,449. D. “V” hoop earrings, $1,349. E. Flower ring, $1,699. F. Band, $1,099. G. Tassel necklace with black and white diamonds, seed pearls, $599. H. Cufflinks – complimentary engraving, stainless steel, $84.
H B
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ON STYLE E
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From John Hardy’s Classic Chain collection, men’s beaded bracelets with sterling silver detail in a variety of colorations, on black Mokuba cord. Shown: A. Black onyx with tiger eye. B. Onyx with malachite. C. Lapis. Each, $195. D. Go for the gold with this delicate 14K necklace featuring two diamond discs, from Meira T. designs, $990. E. Coordinating earrings, $1,045.
FROM TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTION Take one for the team! Better yet, take two. Support your favorite team in style with these handsome items. An ideal graduation or groomsmen’s gift! F. Money clip, $45 each. G. Cufflinks (pair), $60 each. H. Carry a photo of the two of you close to your heart. (Sooo sweet!) Lovely vintage-style lockets are crafted in sterling silver, chain included, $139.99 each.
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I. Disarmingly charming! Stack up multiples of these stainless steel cable bracelets with black diamond buckle clasps, $139.99 each.
A
B
C
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DESIGNERS
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COLOR POPS WARM GOLD AND SATURATED SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
The bold spheres and jewels of the Africa collection are tangible and pronounced, yet remarkably light.
n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered. “I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an emotional feeling.” This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection, filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the destinations that inspire them. When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors, exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course, he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”
GETTING PERSONAL
What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino! Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to debut my newest collections.
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A ONCE IN A LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY TO MEET ITALIAN DESIGNER AT AN EXCLUSIVE TRUNK SHOW AND COCKTAIL PARTY
FRIDAY, MAY 11, 2012 6PM - 9PM TAPPER’S WEST BLOOMFIELD
THE MOST EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF MARCO BICEGO’S EXTRAORDINARY DESIGNS WILL BE AT OUR STORE ONLY DURING THIS SPECIAL EVENT.
MARCO WILL PERSONALLY SIGN EACH PIECE OF JEWELRY PURCHASED THAT EVENING WITH A HAND ENGRAVER. PLEASE RSVP TO 248.865.6093
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MA RCO BICEGO
MARCO BICEGO, WORLD-RENOWNED
...sensuous, extraordinarily d l bbeautiful f l jewelry which blends old world Italian hand craftsmanship with tradition, passion, and imagination.
DESIGNERS
Signature Style PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE AND FABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
W
orld renowned for its elegance, innovation and unique attention to detail, Penny Preville jewelry has been worn by fashionable women from Jackie Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an exclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested in jewelry design? As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces. But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box, overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels: exquisite pieces from different eras that my grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try them on, dream about them. My other grandmother was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I loved art history, re-living different eras. Describe your jewelry and the process to create it. Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,
elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail: beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture… My jewelry is made by artisans here in New York City: we start with an original model and most of the work is done by hand: engraving, stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on the piece, the process can take a few days to a few months. What inspires your designs? Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics. Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian, Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…) How would you describe your personal style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces? There are two sides to me: very driven and practical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl. My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a wide scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear everyday. (It’s part of my body!) I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got from her mother…
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You work with your husband and two sons: how hard is it to combine business and family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay (who started the business with me) manages financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32) and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and will hopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boys to join us: growing up, they were into sports and showed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012? Long chains, statement earrings, bangles and cuffs to mix and match, collectibles, different stones, blackened metals and lots of color (especially blues!). I also believe in the mystical powers of certain stones—for strength or for protection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her? It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides insight into who she is as a person: spiritual, sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.
A N N E B OWEN AT EL I ER A I M EE C L A I R E P ET T I B O N E I A N S T UA RT LIANCARLO PAT T I S R EE M AC R A V ER A WA N G
www.mariabrida lcouture.com 248.539.3090 Inside of the Orchard Ma ll
PROFILE
THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
QUINTESSENTIAL DIAMONDS F
or those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark, part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expert for 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained master craftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bear the Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we among them) are authorized to sell these incredible gems. Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, these superlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a unique identification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of the inscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair) and can be seen in our store using a special viewer. Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal quality of the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and added security. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute in Antwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity and accuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, your guarantee of excellence and authenticity. Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermark diamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the company goes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcing actively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countries committed to the highest business, social and environmental standards. Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonder Forevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman, Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on and off the red carpet.
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PROFILE
SCALING BACK JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGA COLLECTION WITH FIERY NEW DESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
F
irst introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th year in business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragon and the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl. At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, the water dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land and brought prosperity to the Balinese. Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer and creative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Naga collection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune, prosperity and success. Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to help the Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as a collaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “a business can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “Greener Everyday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmental conservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even the black palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s Hong Kong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compound is a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mud structures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for the entire workforce there. The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Bali by these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served as jewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragon heads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Crafted from sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semiprecious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings are rich with detail, inside and out.
“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGA COLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.” –GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER 28
RED CARPET
Blonde Bombshells WITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE, WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
AMBER HEARD
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ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER
CLAIRE DANES
hough the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered
at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly
Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.
Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it. For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident
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HEARD AND PFEIFFER WEAR H. STERN. DANES WEARS MCL.
diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.
smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked like a winner long before they called her name. Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings, stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.
STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY
KATHERINE HEIGL
MARLEY SHELTON
All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent KEIBLER WEARS MCL. HEIGL WEARS SUTRA. SHELTON WEARS AMRAPALI.
an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best. Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.
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TRENDS
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here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators. From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.
COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways. “But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows. Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of childhood abandon come back into your life.” Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman, for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow, “Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and “Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.
SOME REALLY COOL CUTS
RENEWAL! THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS, NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important, so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look. Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem slices with complementary opaque stones.” SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.
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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like natural light shining through a stained glass window. Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides, depending on the designer’s individual vision. Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think about gemstone-slice earrings if you want something lightweight and, at the same time, very flattering; they bring light and color near the face.” ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the most part, three dimensional, almost sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind. Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs with rough cuts are a great choice.” ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up everywhere.
spessartite garnet, red agate. A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This transparent diaspore gem, found only in Turkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry—until now. With its inherently interesting color-change properties— from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink—it’s certainly out of the ordinary, and the perfect choice for anyone looking for something unique or a true conversation starter. Other favorites: chrysoprase, green agate, peridot, green opal, green jade, green quartz, green amethyst, green garnet, green tourmaline. A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately, citrine has been particularly popular, both for its color and the variety of cutting styles being used on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the fancy of a growing number of typically high-end designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire. A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new, March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes, aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea— captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz. A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is well liked in its blue and green varieties, too. “Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.
EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT ADDING GEMSTONE JEWELRY TO THE LIST OF NATURAL MOOD ELEVATORS.
...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely means these gems will get even more popular as we progress through 2012. A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: These radiant orange-red gemstones are renowned in legend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche. That said, you may have to pay the price for that profound sensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressive and fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color and transparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,
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Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by Stephen Webster. Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Road collection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone, aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and blue topaz doublet
ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012
COURTESY LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM
WATCHES
T I M I NG IS
EVERYTH ING FROM SPORTY TO SPECTACULAR, YOU WILL KEEP PERFECT TIME WITH A STYLISH TIMEPIECE FROM TAPPER’S.
Hermes Ladies H-HOUR on orange leather strap, $2,300 Raymond Weil Two-tone Noemia watch with diamonds, $2,495 Baume & Mercier Hampton watch with brown leather strap, $2,650 Cartier Roadster with pink dial, $5,400 Jaeger-LeCoultre Ladies diamond Reverso, $9,150
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IWC Aquatimer Galapagos automatic watch on rubber strap, $6,900 Raymond Weil Freelancer Gent’s automatic watch, $1,995 Panerai Daylight automatic chronograph, $9,500 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon with brown leather strap, $17,300 Tag Heuer 1887 Carrerra, $4,800
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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING
by Karen Alberg Grossman
LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.
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he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed principal Herman Mayer. Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable, well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains. His intense two-year program, established in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally separate from the Rolex Service Center upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally responsible for creating and updating the curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics
and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair. The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students (there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two years, they pay for later on…” Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80 applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose problems just visually. You need to analyze based on input and output of the mechanism: it’s behaving a certain way so the problem must be this or that. You can’t always see the problem because many watches are built in layers, so the movements might be covered, or else just too small.” Mayer admits that among his greatest frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking
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IMPERIALE COLLECTION
skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this, but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…” Why are these skills so critical? “Because even if the student has worked on hundreds of watches, the next movement that comes along might be totally different than anything he’s experienced. So it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the puzzle together: students need to understand what the parts do and how they interact and whether or not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water damage where parts are caked together), because even if spare parts are not available, we can always make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the ‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.” According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and mostly male; there are only one or two females per class), in a second career but with some previous exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some exposure, at least they know what the profession is about: having to deal all day long with these tiny parts, the responsibility of working on such valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent applicants have included bankers and real estate brokers, some from major cities. “People have more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains. “And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who want jobs get them.” Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),
the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer, “It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused on philology and teaching. But at some point, his love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking, which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and ultimately to Lititz. In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a collector: he wears a different watch every day and favors those that combine technical precision with a beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz program that he even lets his students work on his personal watches (excluding vintage handmade pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course: Rolex watches are forever…” His most meaningful watch is one he inherited from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII, the economy was down so he drove a taxi on weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get replacement parts because their factory had burned down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.” Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”
“Nobody buys a fine watch just to tell time…” —Herman Mayer
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noemia collection
FOCUS: WINDERS
by Laurie Kahle
WINDING IT UP TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.
L
ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a
consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—the ultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)
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SEREIN DIAMOND
The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.
Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist. Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests, and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your watch on a winder is also about preventative maintenance that can extend its life.” Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to accommodate your ever-growing collection and cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,” explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard configuration—like buying a car and adding options.” A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation. The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules
that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches and jewelry. The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors, storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design emulates the muscular curves of the One-77 supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited production of 77 pieces. The next level of watch storage is building a custom room, like the space commissioned by one of Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,” explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room (basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight months from concept to completion. Luckily, you have options.
Winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit.
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FOCUS: PROFILE
by Randi Molofsky
SO HOT THEY’RE COOL MICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.
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walk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulates much of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an Art Deco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style. It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with an innate understanding of classic design. From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami. The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit of flash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’s seaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam. Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from the Jelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chic standouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepieces make a big statement at affordable prices. Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly
recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern take on a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular pattern and oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’s round case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel and chronograph dial (available with or without diamonds). One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is also reinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-atme neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals in mint, coral and steel. Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’s commitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety of straps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather, cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze, whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.
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JE T SE T T E R www.gshock.com
Š2012 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
GW3000BB-1A
AT O M I C T I M E K E E P I N G
SOLAR POWERED A solar panel combined with a large-capacity rechargeable battery enables these impressivesolar timepieces to run smoothly under any light with no battery replacement.
North America Japan Japan China
Multi-Band Technology receives time calibration signals automatically from up to six transmitters around the world (US, UK, Germany, Japan x 2 and China). This technology also adjusts for Leap Year and Daylight Saving Time.
United Kingdom
Germany
GW3500B-1A
FOCUS: COLLECTING
by David A. Rose
TIME ON HIS SIDE SCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.
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As a world famous racecar driver still at the top of his game, it’s remarkable that Pruett makes time for other ventures. He and his wife Judy have joined forces to establish Pruett Vineyard, as well as Word Weaver Books, publishers of a series of children’s books they authored. Not surprisingly, the theme is racing, including titles like Twelve Little Race Cars, Rookie Racer and Racing Through the Alphabet. Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racing career, these books provide inspiration and excitement for young readers. As for his winemaking business, Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrums apart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literally minute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds. Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process; the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend of chemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m not one of these athletes who puts my name on a project without involvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved in every aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help of some incredible winemakers.” Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has raced every year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was another extraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece. “At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “so being the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted: I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.” ROLEX / TOM O'NEAL
mong the many rewards of success in sports, perhaps the best is garnering the respect and admiration of fans and peers. But for those athletes competing in Rolex-sponsored events, the grand prize comes in the form of a luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set for themselves long before they’re strapped into their racecars. One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn, California, is a true champion in all forms of motor sports, with the additional honor of having won more Rolex-sponsored races than any other driver. Thus, he has become the proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces. Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times and was awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. In all, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for his brilliant race wins. “My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “When I won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and Ford Motor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as the International Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to be invited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I were ever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolex timepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California, and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on to take the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy my first beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruett also bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)
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PerfectGems
EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.
SLH
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDY
At the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. The grand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches, in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, the manor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor, some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce to present the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.
SCOTT CHANEY
STEP IN STYLE
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Located in a small shop on New York City’s East Side, designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection puts fashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Her unique creations can be seen in very stylish homes all over the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, the Smithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs, inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditional American quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art, are made of natural fibers including wool, silk, pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’s the only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knotted rugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!
REST ASSURED
JULIE SOEFER
DAVID TURNER PHOTOGRAPHY
Hôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even more fashionable and exclusive than the island of St. Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on a gently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area, each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its own gated entrance and a red mailbox flag that serves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoy netting-draped four-poster mahogany beds, high-tech entertainment centers and kitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plunge pools and incredible views across the lush hills to a beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier has selected superb wines and the chef creates amazing dishes (including the hotel’s signature pasta in cream with black truffles). If you choose to stir from your villa, arrangements can be made for a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, you can just put up your flag, order the excellent room service, and hide out like the other privacyseeking celebrity guests.
HOUSTON, WE HAVE ART
BUBBLES IN THE AIR
Inspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Or hotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near the museum district, owns an extensive art collection that includes Corot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to be one of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor in North America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas (like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-loving guests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, then dine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturally paired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, created by chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.
Pops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs, presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections. Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown on Champagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is always better to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetness level] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warm and balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut. “Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…is perhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair with oysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.” Here’s to a sparkling summer!
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SPIRITS
GIN
BLOSSOMS
“EIGHT YEARS AGO, every bar in the U.S. had perhaps four gins on the back row, and perhaps four million vodkas on the front,” says Simon Ford, international brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater gins. Today, the scene is, thankfully, far more complex, with gin cocktails dominating many a bar menu. Gin got its start when 17th-century British mercenaries discovered Dutch genever (a malted spirit with juniper) during the Thirty Years’ War. It traditionally consists of an amalgam of botanical “flavors” (seeds, roots, berries) infused into a high-proof neutral base spirit and re-distilled. What spirit and flavorings are used, and how they’re processed, creates different gins. Hendrick’s “steams” a basket of botanicals with the vaporized alcohol, then adds cucumber and floral notes. Beefeater steeps its botanical brew, distills it and blends it with (essentially) vodka, cutting the distillate at just the right moment to capture citrus notes. Citadelle Reserve is barrel-aged for six months. Lest you shy away from gin for all that juniper, know that only London Dry styles (think Tanqueray or Bulldog) are expected to have juniper-driven flavor profiles. New Western Dry styles, like Aviation and G’Vine (made with grape alcohol), might emphasize orange, rose or saffron. If you seek something truly over-the-top, Nolet’s Reserve ($700) is a limited-edition Dutch sipping gin with notes of saffron and verbana. Want to try your hand at blending the perfect gin? For about $65, Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison will guide you through his historic distillery in southwest England, lead a comparative tasting, then turn you loose to create your own mini-bottle. You’ll have your choice of 20 different botanicals, and cook it all up in a miniature still.
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NOLET’S GIN
GIN HASN’T BEEN THIS POPULAR IN 300 YEARS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
WELLNESS
HAUTE HEALTHCARE W
hen was the last time you went to a spinning class with your doctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together? Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One “new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine. Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primary care physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to top specialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patients also pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designed not only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but also to educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory is that a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to become savvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness. One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company with over 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 states and the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to $1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians who wanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primary care model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to put the patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they became sick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison, MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison, the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s not unusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s
estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less with each patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to address the symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors cap their practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day, allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has a patient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of 96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalized significantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiaries have 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer. Other member-based companies are gaining recognition for infusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health, based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies, helping them with costs and enabling them to provide better healthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involves mobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitioner comes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offering dedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellness counseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s like Marcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve brought back and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing. Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth. With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just be a matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarket outings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.
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I STOCK
BOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI
TRAVEL
The view from the lounge attached to one of the suites at Amangiri makes the desert seem like a private space. Coffee is always available for early risers on the Ecoventura yachts in the Galapagos Islands.
ECO-IMMERSION
A
t its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world is new. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes every sound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journey of coming home to the senses.
EDEN IN THE OCEAN: Cruise the Galapagos with Ecoventura The arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days as Ecoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic
archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador stands outside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabin vessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’s least-spoiled corner. When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone, you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes across black lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird and animal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche of the islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosity rather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-
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AMANGIRI IMAGES COURTESY OF AMANGIRI RESORT. GALAPAGOS IMAGES BY PATRICIA HARRIS & DAVID LYON.
GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOU TO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON
In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lions let photographers snap their portraits with abandon.
Sunsets (and sunrises) are spectacular in the Galapagos Islands.
The step pool at the spa at Amangiri glows in the falling light of dusk. The giant tortoises of the Galapagos Islands are one of the region’s endangered species.
All the bungalows at Lapa Rios in Costa Rica are constructed of thatch.
The foot hue of blue-footed boobies varies by individual.
STRANGE CREATURES INHABIT THEIR OWN GARDEN OF EDEN
footed boobies in their comic courtship dance. Male frigate birds nearly roll over backwards on their nests, incapacitated by the red chest pouches they have inflated to lure a mate. The strange creatures inhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing their pups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoises lumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs skitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife, but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes. (Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com
RAINFOREST RHYTHMS: Costa Rica Escape at Lapa Rios Lapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowland rainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitive tourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in the forest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches and tree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the human exception in a 930-acre private nature reserve. More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and
birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song to add to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora and fauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous, distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforest experience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of El Remanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls. laparios.com
MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS: The Purifying Desert at Amangiri For thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenation in the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peaceful mountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the raw landscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as a whispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis. After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the 25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-body treatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translates as “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, daily group yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. But nothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle of illumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars. amanresorts.com
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BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES
END PAGE
LAST BID FOR LOVE
AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO
M
y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille. In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this 1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’ “soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.” The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras, I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the
bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection— including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond complementing her violet eyes. The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the “Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the “ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000! As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.
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This Mother’s Day, Show your love for her 365 days a year Individual bangle bracelets featuring a discreet but powerful message on the inside of each bangle. Each bangle is inscribed with “I LOVE YOU 365 DAYS A YEAR” utilizing a pink sapphire as a romantic accent. Individually priced at $190.
Show your love for her 7 days a week This stunning sterling silver bangle is actually seven bracelets in one. Linked together by a clasp with the “I love you 7 days a week” inscription. A powerful message and unique design that makes it the ideal gift. Available in four wrist sizes. $1,250.00
featuring I L O V E Y O U 7 D AY S A W E E K
TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2012