TIVOL by Accent Magazine

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2012

GIFTS THAT SHINE TRENDS IN TIMEPIECES JEWELRY FROM THE RUNWAYS PLUS: OUR BIGGEST BRIDAL SECTION EVER!

ÂŠ 2012 Carelle

W E L C O M E

T O

T I V O L

From around the world to your jewelry box...

ne of the most challenging (and most fun) aspects of our work is forecasting jewelry trends and following with innovative, fresh buys in stones and jewelry for the year. Our merchandise team traveled to three important shows this spring, including the largest luxury jewelry show in the world: The Basel Fair, which is held in Switzerland. We see absolutely breathtaking gems and designs from across the continents— including the kind of jewelry that one would think is best suited for a queen. In February, we also traveled to The Tucson Gem Show, which is a one-of-a-kind experience that features loose colored gems of every hue and variety under the sun, from meteorites and petrified wood to finished jewelry. This show is such a wonderful experience because you never know what you’re going to see. It’s almost like sifting through a big treasure trove—and every once in a while, you hit the jackpot with a wonderful find. We’d love to show you our new treasures. Welcome to the spring 2012 issue of Tivol Magazine! My best,

on the

cover

Cathy Tivol

Penny Preville Turquoise Collection 1

Contents spring/summer 2012 TIVOL 800-829-1515 WWW.TIVOL.COM COUNTRY CLUB PLAZA 220 NICHOLS ROAD KANSAS CITY, MO 64112 H AW T H O R N E P L A Z A 4721 W. 119TH STREET OVERLAND PARK, KS 66209 BRIARCLIFF VILLAGE 4131 N. MULBERRY DRIVE KANSAS CITY, MO 64116 CHAIRMAN EMERITUS HAROLD TIVOL CEO CATHY TIVOL GENERAL MANAGER BRIAN BUTLER DIRECTOR OF MERCHANDISING RYANN RINKER D I R E C T O R O F C O M M U N I C AT I O N S ADAM GEBHARDT P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN DESIGN DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER

1 Welcome Letter

36 Designers: Marco Bicego 38 From the Runways

4 Q&A with Brian Butler

42 Designers: Penny Preville

6 Stephen Webster Event

44 Protecting the Precious

8 Roberto Coin Event

56 Wellness: Haute Healthcare

10 David Yurman Event

58 Spirits: Gin Blossoms

12 Back to the Future: Hawthorne Plaza Remodel

64 Last Word: Last Bid for Love

15 Recipe: New Orleans-Style Bread Pudding

WATCH SECTION

LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

18 Accent Advisor

48 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

20 Spring’s Best Bets

52 Winders: Winding it Up

30 Trends: Renewal

54 Profile: Michele Watches

manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this

34 A Morgan Affair

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COVER IMAGE COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE

FEATURES

Q&A

Tivol’s general manager, Brian Butler, opens up about his passion for gemology and his long career at Kansas City’s most iconic jewelry store.

Q. How did you first become involved in the jewelry industry?

Q. What are some of the most memorable projects you’ve been involved with?

A. I have always been interested in rocks since childhood.

A. I have been heavily involved in the construction and

In grade school I studied geology in our 4-H Club and received my first gem book. In junior high, I attended my first gem and mineral show in Chicago and bought my first loose gems, some of which are still in my safety deposit box today.

remodeling of all of our stores. I’m also very proud of the addition of the Rolex space at our Hawthorne Plaza store. It’s a 500 square foot area that beautifully showcases the timepieces.

Q. What endeavors are you most excited about in relation to your work at Tivol?

In Brazil, while studying as a Rotary exchange student during my junior year of high school, I really got the gemstone bug. Brazil is home to approximately 50 percent of the world’s gem production. While traveling to Salvador, Brazil, I stopped in Minas Gerais and I bought some stones directly from miners. Next, I went to Sao Paulo and bought more gems. I met my grandmother and brother in Rio de Janeiro, and we visited H. Stern. It was there that it hit me—I knew what I wanted to be when I grew up.

A. I am most excited about our Tivol Private Label collections, and in particular, our new colored stone collection and men’s collection. It’s very fun to create new pieces and to grow the Tivol line of designs. My favorite part of my job is to be involved with our team as we search the world for gems. It’s fascinating and exciting work.

In college, while studying Portuguese, I took my first courses in metal smithing, gem identification and diamond grading.

I feel like we are continuing Tivol’s history of making fine jewelry and selling the best product available. Being a part of that is something I treasure.

Q. How long have you been at Tivol? What are your favorite things about the company?

Q. If you could only design jewelry with one metal and stone combination, what would it be? Why?

A. I started in the jewelry industry in 1985 and joined Tivol in 1998. Tivol has allowed me amazing opportunities to grow in my career and to continue following my passion for jewelry and gemstones. As a company, I love that everything we do is as a group. Around here, everything is a family-like decision process.

A. If I had to choose, I would work with platinum and colored gems. Traditionally, rubies and emeralds are set in yellow gold—I love setting them in platinum. Overall, my personal favorite is my birthstone, the ruby.

10.14.2011 - Stephen Webster Event

Tivol unveils the new fall collection by rock star jewelry designer Stephen Webster

A) Stephen Webster, Cathy Tivol, Harold Tivol; B) Twyla Wilson, Polly Cooper, Lonnie Cooper, AJ Paddack; C) Jules Boasberg and Michael Thomas Edmondson

C B

10.14.2011 - Stephen Webster Event

A) Stephen Webster alongside some of the pieces in his “Murder She Wrote” collection; B) Ward Manes laughs with customers; C) Cindy Taylor, Stephen Webster; D) Frank Goldstin, Marcos Suarez, Damian Lair; E) The evening’s drawing winner Polly Cooper, Store Manager Gary Pener, Stephen Webster

10.23.2011 - Roberto Coin Event

Italian designer Roberto Coin visits Kansas City for the first time in more than 15 years

A) Barbara White, Jerry White; B) Hunter Tivol McGrath, Roberto Coin; C) Roberto Coin

10.23.2011 - Roberto Coin Event

A) Sherie Bartlett and Faye Zacharias; B) Peter Webster, Store Manager Gary Pener, Leslie Snyder; C) Store Manager Stephanie Sass McHale, Kym Mossman; D) Mike Bohning, Kelly Bohning, Roberto Coin; E) Roberto Coin appears next to some of his latest confections. join us for a very special sunday afternoon, as roberto coin!"#$%&!'(&!)!*&+!,(&(+!+-!$#.&#&!/(+0! (.!"-*%!+'#.!12!0%#*&3

11.04.2011 - David Yurman Trunk Show

Special items from David Yurman make a stop at Tivol A) Merchandising Director Ryann Rinker, Sara Lebovitz, Christy Hanson; B) Dan Meiners, Marketing Director Adam Gebhardt; C) Joan McHugh, Earl McHugh; D) Nichole Kennedy, Fiona Kennedy, Phil Kennedy; E) Lisa Lyddon, Pam DiCapo, Ted Taylor, Jack DiCapo

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back to the

future Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza undergoes a massive remodel that includes an exclusive space dedicated to Rolex. By Adam Gebhardt If you ask David Behnke what it’s like to go through a whole-store renovation, you’ll likely be amused by his reply. “It was hell,” smiles Behnke, the store manager at Tivol’s Hawthorne Plaza location. “But in the end, it was well worth it.” Along with CEO Cathy Tivol and general manager Brian Butler, Behnke oversaw the three-month-long remodel that began in August 2011. While the timeline was relatively swift for a project of that scope, Behnke is quick to remind us, “It felt much longer than that.” During the transformation, Behnke and his staff were relocated within Hawthorne Plaza to a temporary storefront directly west of the permanent location. The storefront allowed Tivol to remain open while work progressed, but frills—along with personal workspace—were scarce commodities. “The temp space served its purpose,” Behnke says. “But we were packed in like sardines. It wasn’t terribly attractive, and we had very little room for display cases. While I love my staff and colleagues, it was pretty close quarters for a while. I’m really glad it’s over,” he laughs. The facelift of the actual Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza achieved three goals that company leaders had for the 17-year-old store: to make room for a new 500 square foot space dedicated exclusively to Rolex; to modernize the interior design to match the look and feel of Tivol’s two other stores; and to allow for more natural daylight to enter the sales floor. “A Rolex space that large is very rare for an independent jeweler, particularly in the Midwest,” Cathy Tivol says. The Rolex space allows the store to display about 175 timepieces at any given time, an increase of nearly 100 watches from the previous store’s design plan.

Left: The new space dedicated exclusively to Rolex. Above: Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza during renovations.

Overall, the store’s extra space equates to a nearly 50 percent increase in the amount of display cases over the previous layout, making room for dozens of additional jewelry presentations—referred to in the industry as “stories.” This newfound flexibility is helpful as Tivol continues to add brands to its collection. Michele, a line of watches new to the Hawthorne and Briarcliff Village stores, is a prime example, says Tivol. The brand strongly appeals to young, fashion-forward individuals, and the remodeled Hawthorne location is the perfect setting for this line. Lighting was also carefully addressed as the store was redesigned. “In the old space, the lighting sometimes affected our

continued on page 60

New Orleans-Style Bread Pudding with Chocolate Sauce Recipe courtesy of Chef Emeril Lagasse

Ingredients

Bread pudding is up there as one of my favorite desserts, and this recipe is embarrassingly easy! I alter it slighly, however, by not using raisins and cutting off the crusts. Also, you can use any chocolate sauce you want. Yum! -Cathy Tivol

• 8 cups day-old white bread, such as French or Italian, cut into 1-inch cubes (toast if fresh) • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 cups heavy cream • 2 cups milk • 4 large eggs • 1 cup light brown sugar • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • 1/2 cup raisins (optional) • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg • 3 cups real whipped cream (you’ll need to make a triple batch) (optional)

Chocolate Sauce

• 1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate morsels • 1 cup milk • 1 cup heavy cream • 2 tablespoons light brown sugar • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Instructions

Place the cubed bread in a large mixing bowl. In a small saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat and pour the butter over the bread cubes. Using a rubber spatula, toss to evenly distribute the butter. Grease a 9 x 13-inch baking dish with the remaining 1 tablespoon of the butter and set aside. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the cream, milk, eggs, brown sugar, granulated sugar, raisins (if using) vanilla extract, cinnamon and nutmeg. Whisk to combine. continued on next page

Position rack in center of oven and preheat the oven to 350ยบ. Pour the cream mixture over the bread cubes and stir to combine. Let sit for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the bread is soft and has absorbed most of the liquid. Transfer the bread mixture to the prepared baking dish and bake, uncovered, until the top is golden brown and crispy and the pudding is firm in the center (about 45 minutes). While the bread pudding is baking, prepare the chocolate sauce. Using oven mitts or potholders, remove the bread pudding from the oven and set aside on a wire rack to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve warm with chocolate sauce and a triple batch of real whipped cream, if desired. Yields 10 to 12 servings

Chocolate Sauce

Place chocolate morsels in a medium mixing bowl and set aside. Combine the milk, cream, brown sugar and cinnamon in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Using oven mitts or potholders, remove the saucepan from the heat immediately and carefully pour the milk mixture over the chocolate morsels. Let sit for 1 minute, then whisk until smooth. Set aside until the bread pudding is ready to serve. Yields 3 cups

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JEWELRY, ART, WINE & OTHER COLLECTIONS

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PERSONAL LIABILITY

ACCENT(ADVISOR) WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESS PIECES ARE MOST LIKELY TO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value or can be passed to the next generation; a favored piece can become your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautiful strand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocery store or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece of jewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark. We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited, jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one item this year, make it special and enduring.

I KNOW WOMEN WHO WEAR FASHION JEWELRY LIKE BANGLES OR BOLD CUFFS, BUT BUY THESE PIECES AT CLOTHING STORES AS OPPOSED TO JEWELERS (EVEN IF THEY HAVE TO REPURCHASE THE PIECES WHEN THEY TARNISH). WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balance trendy fashion jewelry that they don’t expect to last forever with items that they cherish, wear often and want to last. Since a great bangle is a classic that will be in style forever, it’s worth investing in something both fabulous and enduring.

For both ladies and gents, a good watch is an absolute must! If you can invest in only one great piece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylish watch to enjoy for many years. It should cross over into any activity, and should dress up or down. When you have more to invest, consider buying both a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in the interim, one great watch transcends numerous styles and ventures! Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strand of pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven) shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-witheverything item to wear with denim or ball gowns; and 3) a necklace or pendant with personal meaning, like your children’s names or initials, an important date, a display of faith or spirituality. (If you’ve ever noticed women constantly touching their necklaces, it’s likely because they feel an emotional connection to the symbol.)

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND ESTATE JEWELRY? “Estate” is a popular jewelry label, but does not specify the period of manufacture. “Estate” is primarily used to describe jewelry that is previously owned. The term “antique” generally applies to jewelry items that are at least 100 years old, the benchmark used by government officials for duty-free importing of antiques. For spring 2012, everything old is new again, so consider both of these options, or try resetting one of your own family heirlooms.

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springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets in

blue inpink inbrown inorange ingray inred inwhite inblack ingreen

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets inblue c.

a. Penny Preville $6,795

18K white gold diamond and sapphire earrings

b. Bell & Ross $4,500 Ceramic Aviation watch

c. Tivol $21,700

Palladium and blue sapphire menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ring

d. Penny Preville $17,075

18K white gold, diamond and blue sapphire ring

spring’s best bets

pink

a. Jack Kelége $38,950 Platinum and 18K rose gold pink tourmaline and diamond ring

b. Tivol $6,200

Platinum, pink sapphire and diamond ring

c. Roberto Coin $4,400 18K rose gold, pink sapphire and diamond earrings

d. Rolex $13,000 2\VWHU 3HUSHWXDO 'DWHMXVW PP SLQN Á RUDO GLDO

e. Caleo $3,395 Sterling Silver bracelet, rainbow moonstone with pink opal

brown

a. Tivol $8,250

18K white gold and chocolate moonstone earrings

b. Michele $2,395

Deco Day chronograph

c. Victor Velyan $17,480

Fine silver and 24K yellow gold cuff bracelet with faceted diamonds

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets 23

orange a.

a. Rahaminov $117,600 18K yellow gold fancy multi-color diamond necklace

b. Tivol $12,750

Platinum and 18K yellow gold spessartite garnet ring

c Aaron Basha $4,700

Orange leather strap bracelet with 18K yellow gold charms

d. TAG Heuer $1,100 Stainless steel Formula 1 watch

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets 24

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets d.

gray

a. Tivol $3,300

18K white gold and gray moonstone pendant with black and white diamonds

b. Tivol $5,625

18K white gold and gray moonstone earrings with black and white diamonds

c. Mikimoto $9,100

Multi-colored Tahitian cultured pearl strand with 18K white gold clasp

d. Cartier $34,000

Ladies 18K white gold Delice De Cartier watch

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets c.

red

a. Stephen Webster $16,000

18K white gold rock crystal and red garnet diamond necklace

b. TW Steel $825

Chronograph watch with red dial

c. David Yurman $675

Sterling silver coral beaded bracelet

d. a.

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets c.

white

a. Mikimoto $3,660

Akoya pearl strand with 18K white gold clasp

b. Marco Bicego $1,290

18K yellow gold and pearl earrings

c. Rolex $33,750

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm 18K white gold and mother-of-pearl dial

d. David Yurman $1,190

Sterling silver and white agate necklace

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets inblack a. Tivol $16,280

18K white gold and black diamond hoop earrings

b. Tivol $17,600

18K white gold and black diamond ring

c. Rahaminov $6,160

18K white gold and black diamond pendant

d. Baume & Mercier $5,700

Stainless steel Hampton with diamonds

springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bets ingreen

a. Lagos $295

Sterling silver crystal over malachite earrings

b. Carelle $6,250

Green tourmaline ring with pavĂŠ diamonds set in 18K yellow gold

c. Tivol $3,900

18K white gold, green tourmaline and diamond earrings

d. Michele $1,645

Deco Day Diamond chronograph watch on a vivid green patent leather strap

TRENDS

here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators. From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways. “But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows. Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of childhood abandon come back into your life.” Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman, in fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow, “Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and “Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTS

RENEWAL! THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS, NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important, so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look. Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem slices with complementary opaque stones.” SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires

flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like natural light shining through a stained glass window. Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides, depending on the designer’s individual vision. Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think about gemstone-slice earrings if you want something lightweight and, at the same time, very flattering; they bring light and color near the face.” ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the most part, three dimensional, almost sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind. Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs with rough cuts are a great choice.” ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up everywhere.

change properties—from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink—it’s certainly out of the ordinary, and the perfect choice for anyone looking for something unique or a true conversation starter. Other favorites: chrysoprase, green agate, peridot, green opal, green jade, green quartz, green amethyst, green garnet, green tourmaline. A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately, citrine has been particularly popular, both for its color and the variety of cutting styles being used on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the fancy of a growing number of typically highend designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire. A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new, March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes, aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz. A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is well liked in its blue and green varieties, too. “Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT ADDING GEMSTONE JEWELRY TO THE LIST OF NATURAL MOOD ELEVATORS.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely means these gems will get even more popular as we progress through 2012. A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: These radiant orange-red gemstones are renowned in legend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche. That said, you may have to pay the price for that profound sensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressive and fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color and transparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel, spessartite garnet, red agate. A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This transparent diaspore gem, found only in Turkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry— until now. With its inherently interesting color-

Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by Stephen Webster. Bottom: 21” necklace with 32 carved turquoise beads and 22K yellow gold, from the Tivol Collection. Sterling silver and 24K gold ring set with oval faceted turquoise, by Victor Velyan.

Morgan

Affair

“B

By Adam Gebhardt

rad Fire has a disorder where he can’t do anything on a small scale,” says Dawn Fire, his loving – yet only half kidding – wife of 12 years. Brad’s preference for colossal-scale living manifests itself in many ways, from ambitious vacations in the family’s oversized RV, to the couple’s equally generous—and contagious—senses of humor. One of the clearest examples of their tendency for larger-than-life endeavors, however, is Peeper Ranch, a 705-acre parcel of land in western Lenexa, KS that is devoted to the boarding of horses. It also happens to be used as a training ground for champion Morgans.

On a particularly overcast and windy February day, Dawn visits with us in her warm, comfortable office in what is described as Peeper’s “barn,” a rustic, magnificent facility with slate floors, library paneled walls and bronze statues of some of her dearest and most lauded horses. She shares her workspace with a shih-poo, a standard poodle—and Teresa Jackson Beers—her operations manager and good friend of 18 years. (Among the four, it’s hard to tell who is more entertaining.) In addition to being close friends, the two women have a trusting business relationship, spending most of their days controlling the barn’s hefty, ever-evolving operations—all while cracking each other up like two schoolgirls serving detention. Despite several highly comical digressions, the two manage to explain the history and legacy of Morgans, an American equine bloodline dating back to an 18th-century farmer named Justin Morgan, who lived in Vermont. A particular horse owned by Morgan was known for its “prepotency, distinctive looks, conformation, temperament and athleticism.” As this bloodline developed, so too did its individuality and notoriety for being a breed with a strong work ethic that also consumed about half as much food as its more ubiquitous cousins. Morgans also proved to be quite versatile, capable of everything from working cattle to performing as high-stepping show horses. For Dawn, this pliability is part of the Morgan appeal. “Every day I look at the young horses and wonder to myself, ‘What are you going to be?’” The obvious fondness for Morgans that Dawn exhibits was not innate, but rather landed in her lap almost by accident. In 1999, she and Brad returned to Kansas City after spending years in Seattle. Anticipating that they would soon start a family, Dawn thought back to her own childhood to when her parents kept horses for pleasure riding. Although she had no formal training, Dawn knew the animals had instilled a positive sense of responsibility and compassion— traits she wanted to reinforce in her own future children. She had not ridden in more than 15 years, but while shopping for horses she found a mare she fell in love with, named Mattie, who just happened to be a Morgan. Two weeks after purchasing Mattie, plans to reacquaint herself with riding fell through when Dawn learned she was pregnant with her first child, Jaden. While pregnant, Dawn and Brad developed plans to build and run a business together, something they both desired to do. With Dawn’s existing idea to incorporate horses into their lives, the concept of starting a full-fledged ranch soon came together. In 2000, construction began on a barn, originally designed to contain 20 horse stalls with a single arena. As builders started to prepare the land, Brad’s go-big-or-gohome instinct kicked in once plans were reviewed. In famous Fire fashion, the relatively simple, 20-stall project quickly

turned into a 72-stall facility with two training arenas. As for its unusual name, the Fires intended to offset the ranch’s high-end design and finish level by dubbing it something approachable and friendly that would make all visitors feel welcome. While searching for a name, Dawn gave birth to Jaden. Upon seeing her large eyes—or “peepers”—for the first time, the ranch’s title was solidified. While the purchase of Mattie was based on an emotional connection Dawn felt with the mare, she bought her second Morgan, Marin Affair, with the intent of becoming more actively involved in the show ring. After recovering from Jaden’s birth, Dawn began to train for competition while riding Marin Affair. At first, things did not go well. “It was really hard,” Dawn says with a wry grin. “I couldn’t ride well at all.” But things were about to change. In 2002, the Fires hired Phil Fountain and his business partner—affectionately known as Mr. Wendell—to train, help manage the barn and assist Dawn in selecting horses for her to ride. They also brought on an additional professional trainer who worked with Dawn three to five days per week on three to four different horses. With the purchase of yet another Morgan, Erotic Dancer, Dawn started to improve her skills. “It took 10 months until I could get to the point of riding Erotic Dancer,” Dawn says. “She was a hot tamale, but I loved it.”

“Every day I look at the young horses and wonder to myself, ‘What are you going to be?’” In 2004, Dawn participated in her first show while riding Erotic Dancer. After months of preparation and hard work, she finished dead last at the Grand National Horse Show. “I remember walking up to accept the [last place] ribbon. I thought, ‘Well, this is humbling. I definitely have some work to do.’” Undeterred, Dawn spent the next year working with her team, focusing on problem areas and improving her weaknesses. In 2005, she returned to the Grand National and came home as the World Champion. She went on to win an additional World Champion title that same year. Dawn continued to solidify her record as an awardwinning Morgan rider with Erotic Dancer, then while riding Trouble’s First Take and later Erotic Dancer’s son, Optimus Prime. All the while, Fountain worked his existing client base and began forging new relationships on behalf of Peeper

continued on page 62

DESIGNERS

COLOR POPS WARM GOLD AND SATURATED SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

The bold spheres and jewels of the Africa collection are tangible and pronounced, yet remarkably light.

n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered. “I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an emotional feeling.” This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection, filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the destinations that inspire them. When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors, exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course, he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

GETTING PERSONAL

What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino! Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to debut my newest collections.

Gold GO FOR THE

IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

FROM THE RUNWAYS

Bright RAINBOW

Dark

AND DANGEROUS

DESIGNERS

Signature Style PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE AND FABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

orld renowned for its elegance, innovation and unique attention to detail, Penny Preville jewelry has been worn by fashionable women from Jackie Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an exclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested in jewelry design? As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces. But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box, overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels: exquisite pieces from different eras that my grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try them on, dream about them. My other grandmother was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I loved art history, re-living different eras. Describe your jewelry and the process to create it. Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail: beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture… My jewelry is made by artisans here in New York City: we start with an original model and most of the work is done by hand: engraving, stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on the piece, the process can take a few days to a few months. What inspires your designs? Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics. Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian, Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…) How would you describe your personal style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces? There are two sides to me: very driven and practical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl. My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a wide scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear everyday. (It’s part of my body!) I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got from her mother…

You work with your husband and two sons: how hard is it to combine business and family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay (who started the business with me) manages financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32) and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and will hopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boys to join us: growing up, they were into sports and showed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012? Long chains, statement earrings, bangles and cuffs to mix and match, collectibles, different stones, blackened metals and lots of color (especially blues!). I also believe in the mystical powers of certain stones—for strength or for protection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her? It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides insight into who she is as a person: spiritual, sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

Tivol’s Tracey Kahle carefully inspects a piece of jewelry. Tracey handles all of Tivol’s in-house appraisals.

Protecting the Precious Insurance matters may not be sexy, but obtaining proper coverage for valuable possessions such as jewelry could be essential to safeguarding your heirlooms.

By Amber Miller Manning Murphy’s Law: Anything that can go wrong often will go wrong. Sometimes it seems like Murphy was talking specifically about the things in life we value most—or at least are the most excited about. Examples of his law seem to be abundant—the brand new car that gets dinged by a shopping cart, record-low temperatures during a tropical getaway, or staining an article of clothing while wearing it for the first time. But what happens when Murphy strikes on your treasured engagement ring, favorite earrings or best watch? It is a common misconception that a homeowner’s insurance policy fully protects individuals from the theft, damage or disappearance of jewelry and other valuables. In fact, most standard policies of this nature are peppered with fine print and have extensive limitations on coverage for jewelry, but most people do not learn they are underinsured or altogether uninsured until they file a claim with their insurance company. When that moment comes, it is usually too late to make other arrangements to guarantee protection from the financial burden of replacing what one has lost. In fact, even if jewelry is covered under a home policy, it is subject to potentially expensive deductibles that can range from hundreds to even thousands of dollars depending on the provider and the client’s preferences. Additionally, any insurance claims filed in this manner can affect the premiums on a homeowner’s policy once it comes up for renewal—a premium increase that could be higher than the amount received to replace the lost or damaged piece in the first place. Even highend carriers have limitations regarding jewelry. While these companies do offer broader protection, the broker must still be consulted in order to establish a sensible coverage plan for specific items. Navigating this process can be challenging, but it is important in order to safeguard a jewelry collection for the long term. This is why it is essential to utilize a broker that can provide assistance in building an insurance program that protects a client’s best interests. Since brokers work with multiple insurance companies, they are aware of the pros and cons of each policy and will be able to recommend the best option for an individual’s unique needs. It is always better to have a strategy in place that may include a mixture of jewelry coverage, itemized (coverage for a defined piece of jewelry) and blanketed (a set amount of coverage that does not require a specific list of all of an individual’s jewelry items). Blanketed jewelry coverage

is underutilized, and is a wonderful solution for items that are $5,000 or less in value. Also, there are lower rates available for items stored in bank vaults, which may be a good solution for larger, more important pieces that are worn fewer than five times annually. Regardless of coverage, it is a best practice to have a thorough appraisal conducted on a jewelry collection every five years (or every two years for high-value pieces) by a trusted and reliable source in order to determine the proper insurance amount. This practice guarantees that one’s items are always fully insured to current market values, which minimizes financial risk. If it has been several years since a collection has been reappraised, one could not, with complete certainty, replace the item with an exact match—especially if the piece is gold, platinum, or a diamond, as these materials have seen a large increase in value during the last few years. This approach has an added bonus: An appraisal report will include detailed information about a collection in the event of a loss. Premier carriers offer 150 percent of replacement cost based on this information, which can allow for a 50-percent buffer to account for increased values or complicated searches for rare jewels or gems. Unfortunately, anyone may present himself or herself to the public as a personal property appraiser, since it is a field that remains largely unregulated. It is important to seek out an individual or a company that has the proper training, credentials and background to provide a trustworthy report and appraisal. Tivol’s own Tracey Kahle is among a handful of people in the United States who is certified as a personal property appraiser with a specialty in gems and jewelry by the International Society of Appraisers, making her a unique and valuable local resource for reappraising jewelry on a scheduled basis.

Amber Miller Manning is Vice President of Robert E Miller Group. She is a graduate of Loyola University Chicago and a native of Kansas City. She is the third generation of the 51-year-old family business. Robert E Miller Group specializes in personal property and liability insurance for business owners, professionals and executives.

ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

COURTESY LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM

WATCHES

FOCUS: WATCHMAKING

by Karen Alberg Grossman

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed principal Herman Mayer. Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable, well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains. His intense two-year program, established in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally separate from the Rolex Service Center upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally responsible for creating and updating the curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair. The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students (there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two years, they pay for later on…” Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80 applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose problems just visually. You need to analyze based on input and output of the mechanism: it’s behaving a certain way so the problem must be this or that. You can’t always see the problem because many watches are built in layers, so the movements might be covered, or else just too small.” Mayer admits that among his greatest frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this, but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…” Why are these skills so critical? “Because even if the student has worked on hundreds of watches, the next movement that comes along might be totally different than anything he’s experienced. So it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the puzzle together: students need to understand what the parts do and how they interact and whether or not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water damage where parts are caked together), because even if spare parts are not available, we can always make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the ‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.” According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and mostly male; there are only one or two females per class), in a second career but with some previous exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some exposure, at least they know what the profession is about: having to deal all day long with these tiny parts, the responsibility of working on such valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent applicants have included bankers and real estate brokers, some from major cities. “People have more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains. “And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who want jobs get them.” Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer, “It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused on philology and teaching. But at some point, his love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking, which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and ultimately to Lititz. In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a collector: he wears a different watch every day and favors those that combine technical precision with a beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz program that he even lets his students work on his personal watches (excluding vintage handmade pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course: Rolex watches are forever…” His most meaningful watch is one he inherited from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII, the economy was down so he drove a taxi on weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get replacement parts because their factory had burned down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.” Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

“Nobody buys a fine watch just to tell time…” —Herman Mayer

SEREIN DIAMOND

FOCUS: WINDERS

by Laurie Kahle

WINDING IT UP TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unitâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the ultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist. Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests, and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your watch on a winder is also about preventative maintenance that can extend its life.” Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to accommodate your ever-growing collection and cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,” explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard configuration—like buying a car and adding options.” A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation. The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches and jewelry. The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors, storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design emulates the muscular curves of the One-77 supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited production of 77 pieces. The next level of watch storage is building a custom room, like the space commissioned by one of Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,” explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room (basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight months from concept to completion. Luckily, you have options.

Winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit.

FOCUS: PROFILE

by Randi Molofsky

SO HOT THEY’RE COOL MICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

walk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulates much of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an Art Deco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style. It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with an innate understanding of classic design. From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami. The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit of flash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’s seaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam. Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from the Jelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chic standouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepieces make a big statement at affordable prices. Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern take on a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular pattern and oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’s round case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel and chronograph dial (available with or without diamonds). One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is also reinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-atme neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals in mint, coral and steel. Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’s commitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety of straps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather, cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze, whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

A million little pieces... Servicing a watch every four to five years is as important as regularly changing the oil in a vehicle. Proper maintenance helps ensure its longevity and can matter as much as the pieceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original craftsmanship. At Tivol, our highly experienced watch shop staff completely disassembles the hundreds of components inside your timepiece, checking each part for wear and proper functionality while it is fully serviced. This process helps protect your investment throughout its lifetime, your lifetimeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and for its generations of owners to come.

tivol.com

816.531.5800

WELLNESS

HAUTE HEALTHCARE W

hen was the last time you went to a spinning class with your doctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together? Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One “new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine. Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primary care physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to top specialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patients also pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designed not only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but also to educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory is that a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to become savvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness. One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company with over 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 states and the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to $1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians who wanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primary care model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to put the patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they became sick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison, MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison, the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s not unusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s

estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less with each patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to address the symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors cap their practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day, allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has a patient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of 96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalized significantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiaries have 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer. Other member-based companies are gaining recognition for infusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health, based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies, helping them with costs and enabling them to provide better healthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involves mobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitioner comes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offering dedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellness counseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s like Marcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve brought back and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing. Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth. With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just be a matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarket outings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.

I STOCK

BOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621

Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

A GIA report is certainty from the source. As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific. A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality. Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

SPIRITS

GIN

BLOSSOMS

“EIGHT YEARS AGO, every bar in the U.S. had perhaps four gins on the back row, and perhaps four million vodkas on the front,” says Simon Ford, international brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater gins. Today, the scene is, thankfully, far more complex, with gin cocktails dominating many a bar menu. Gin got its start when 17th-century British mercenaries discovered Dutch genever (a malted spirit with juniper) during the Thirty Years’ War. It traditionally consists of an amalgam of botanical “flavors” (seeds, roots, berries) infused into a high-proof neutral base spirit and re-distilled. What spirit and flavorings are used, and how they’re processed, creates different gins. Hendrick’s “steams” a basket of botanicals with the vaporized alcohol, then adds cucumber and floral notes. Beefeater steeps its botanical brew, distills it and blends it with (essentially) vodka, cutting the distillate at just the right moment to capture citrus notes. Citadelle Reserve is barrel-aged for six months. Lest you shy away from gin for all that juniper, know that only London Dry styles (think Tanqueray or Bulldog) are expected to have juniper-driven flavor profiles. New Western Dry styles, like Aviation and G’Vine (made with grape alcohol), might emphasize orange, rose or saffron. If you seek something truly over-the-top, Nolet’s Reserve ($700) is a limited-edition Dutch sipping gin with notes of saffron and verbana. Want to try your hand at blending the perfect gin? For about $65, Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison will guide you through his historic distillery in southwest England, lead a comparative tasting, then turn you loose to create your own mini-bottle. You’ll have your choice of 20 different botanicals, and cook it all up in a miniature still.

NOLET’S GIN

GIN HASN’T BEEN THIS POPULAR IN 300 YEARS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

back to the

future continued

Above: An interior shot of the newly remodeled Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza. The just-installed green glass wall will feature a large, gold Rolex logo. Right: Harold Tivol, CEO Cathy Tivol and Hunter Tivol McGrath got their hands dirty during demolition of the old interior.

continued from page 13 clients’ ability to see the clarity and brightness of a diamond,” Butler says. “On occasion, we would bring customers outside the store so they could fully appreciate the quality of a piece. With the new lighting plan and with our exterior windows now fully visible inside the store, that issue has been resolved.” By mid-November 2011, company and crew were moving jewelry and office supplies back into the original store at an accelerated pace, all while finishing touches were still being put on the Rolex space. The grand re-opening celebration had already been scheduled for November 19. “The pressure was on,” Cathy Tivol says. In the end, Tivol made its deadline. The party was held as planned, with more than 250 guests in attendance. Among them were representatives from Tivol’s selected charity of the evening, KidsTLC, an Olathe, Kansas-based organization that provides shelter and social services to children and youth who are facing abuse, neglect or family disruption. The event raised more than $6,000 for the group. While the party was a success and the remodeled store was at last in an operational state, final embellishments to the

location remained incomplete through winter. A green glass Rolex-logo wall was planned for installation in February 2012. In addition, a large-scale Cartier display was in the works for March 2012. Another exciting installation is scheduled for this spring as well. Tivol is preparing an exhibit about its 102-year history, complete with photos of family members, key events and occurrences throughout the decades. The exhibit will serve as an art piece on a south wall within the store. Fittingly, the display case below it will house Tivol Private Label jewelry, with many designs based on company founder Charles Tivol’s work. Those specific items, known as the Tivol Heritage Collection, will feature a brand stamp with the original Tivol logo on them rather than today’s version. In the meantime, with the hardest part over and with much of the chaos subsiding, Behnke can finally begin to relax. From his glass-walled office, he looks out over the fresh, bright store. He smiles. Then he adds, “I hope it’s another 17 years before I have to go through this again.”

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Morgan

Affaircontinued

A) Dawn Fire shows her champion Morgan, Erotic Dancer; B) Dawn gives some love to Total Addiction; C) Jaden Fire shows Harlan’s Star Material

continued from page 35 Ranch. Between his connections and Peeper’s burgeoning reputation as a world-class boarding and training facility, the barn became home to more than 100 horses with owners from around the United States. The current client roster also includes a London-based artist who has created works for the British Monarchy, including Queen Elizabeth II. Today, the services at Peeper Ranch have evolved to include not only Morgan training and local boarding departments, but also a breeding program, a lesson program (where gentle-natured Peeper horses are used to teach kids and inexperienced adults how to ride), as well as an events department that has played host to numerous weddings and other special functions. The barn also operates a robust internship program for well-behaved youths who have good grades and positive attitudes. “The Peeper Way”—a demonstration of respect for the horses as well as a strong personal work ethic—is instilled in these individuals as they fill roles ranging from barn helpers to senior barn helpers, lesson program leaders and senior interns. In addition to its internship program, Peeper Ranch offers an enrichment opportunity that allows young people and other less-skilled riders to show on lesson horses in an academy practice competition. The Peep Show, as it is known, helps level the playing field for its participants, and, to Dawn’s knowledge, the show is unique to the Morgan circuit. Certainly, it is the only upscale off-season event of its kind. Held in Hale Arena in Kansas City’s West Bottoms, The Peep Show is now in its third year and has already garnered national attention. In 2011, the show had more than 130 participants. This year, the staff expects to have even more entries. The Fires’ commitment to the proper stewardship of Peeper Ranch does not end with the nurturing of new riders, however. Environmentalism is important to the couple as well.

Much of the waste produced by the barn is recycled or composted, and in 2011, a massive installation of more than 500 solar panels was completed. The system generates almost half the electricity required to operate the facility while also significantly reducing its carbon footprint. “It was important to us to be eco-friendly,” Beers adds. “We wanted to demonstrate to other businesses in the community that this is possible.” After explaining The Peeper Way and the many initiatives of the ranch, Dawn takes us on a tour of the stables and introduces us to some of her favorite horses. Along the way, we encounter several employees of various statuses and levels of responsibility. Each is greeted by Dawn in a warm and loving manner; it is clear that Peeper Ranch is a close-knit family of hardworking people who are joined in their shared passion for horses. Here, company hierarchy simply doesn’t matter; each job is equally important and has its own dignity. Toward the end of the tour, Dawn gets an especially large smile on her face and she opens a stall door labeled “Mattie.” Yes, the first horse that started the Morgan extravaganza for the Fire family is alive and well, and teaching new riders through Peeper’s lesson program. Now 16, the connection between master and beast is obvious. “Dawn’s still her favorite person,” Beers tells us. “They definitely love each other.” Outside, the cutting February winds of Kansas continue to gust, causing the barn’s support beams to intermittently groan in resistance. The sound is a sharp reminder of the winter day surrounding Peeper Ranch, which until now had been all but forgotten. Upon entry to this warm place, with its gorgeous décor and welcoming staff, one can easily fail to remember that the bitter winds even exist.

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LAST WORD

LAST BID FOR LOVE

AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille. In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this 1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’ “soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.” The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras, I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection— including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond complementing her violet eyes. The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the “Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the “ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000! As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

TIVOL ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2012