TRADITIONAL

AC C E N T THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2012

FASHION ISLAND - NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Contents spring/summer 2012 FA S H I O N I S L A N D 203 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE NEWPORT BEACH, CA ( 9 4 9 ) 721- 9 010 HOURS: M O N - F R I : 10 : 0 0 A M - 8 : 0 0 P M S AT : 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 7 : 0 0 P M S U N : 11 : 0 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN DESIGN DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS

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CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

FEATURES 4 Welcome Letter 8 Events 10 Best Bets 12 Escapes: Villa Travel 16 Accent Advisor 18 Designers: Marco Bicego 22 Trends: Renewal 26 Red Carpet

30 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

34 Watch Winders: Winding it Up

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

38 Collecting: Time on His Side 40 Perfect Gems 42 Food: Making Magic 48 Travel: Eco-Immersion 52 Culture: Café Society 56 End Page: Last Bid for Love

depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

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WELCOME

Dear Valued Clients and Friends, It is hard to believe we’re already in 2012—and what a year it is shaping up to be. Natalie, my daughter, was married on February 10th at the Pelican Hill Resort, and what a beautiful wedding the entire Pelican Hill team helped us put together!

We just celebrated 20 years in Fashion Island and 32 years in Newport Beach, and would like to thank you all for embracing our family and allowing us to be a part of your lives and a part of this fabulous community. We’re working on the remodel of our Fashion Island location, which begins in May and will be completed in September. We are so excited to share the new and even better Traditional Jewelers with all of you.

We have been traveling to various shows here and abroad, Our Fashion Island store in Newport Beach to bring back the very best in jewelry and watches to offer you. You will be thrilled with our new watch and jewelry designs for 2012. Yellow gold is coming back strong, and platinum is still king in bridal and anniversary settings. Our loose diamond and bridal jewelry collections are better than ever, offering great values too.

Please enjoy this edition of our Accent magazine, and we look forward to seeing you soon.

Respectfully,

Lula F. Halfacre Owner & CEO Traditional Jewelers, Inc.

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©2012 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

Watch in white high-tech ceramic set with diamonds (~1.6 carat).

Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 200 meters.

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

THE PARTY TO WATCH 2011 SIGNATURE WATCH EVENT On September 29th, Traditional Jewelers and Riviera magazine hosted the outstanding annual signature watch event, with 13 fine timepiece brands represented. The amazing Bell & Ross / Harley-Davidson / Nescafé racer was on display, guests enjoyed fine catering by Crème de la Crème, and Posh shared their superb champagne and wines. The beautifully decorated store quickly filled up with many guests eager to enjoy the evening’s festivities.

Attendees were greeted by artistic flower displays from Le Tulipe Floral Design and great sounds by DJ Drew of LA Lights Entertainment. Private Trade Winds offered a raffle opportunity to win a four-night stay at the Ko’Olina Beach Villas Resort in Oahu with their compliments, which was won by a very excited guest! The benefitting charity, Orange County United Way’s Tocqueville Society, represented by Max Gardner, invited many of its supporters, and was pleased to be the recipient of a percentage of proceeds from the evening.

ROBERTO COIN FOR TRADITIONAL JEWELERS OPENING Roberto Coin and Traditional Jewelers celebrated the opening of Roberto Coin for Traditional Jewelers at The Newport Beach Fashion Island Mall on November 3rd. The 1,100 square foot store at this premiere coastal location is ideally located for the innovative designs of Roberto Coin. The boutique includes some of Coin’s iconic collections, such as Appassionata, Ipanema, Mauresque, CapriPlus and the Roberto Coin Cento collection, which features a unique 100-facet cut, almost double the traditional 57-facet cut used on most diamonds.

"We are excited about the continued expansion of our brand with another boutique opening," said Peter Webster, co-owner and president of Roberto Coin, Inc. "The success and encouraging consumer response from our other boutiques has inspired us to launch in locations that we find perfect to expand our name. Collaborating with some of the most well-respected local retail partners, such as Traditional Jewelers, broadens our relationships with the local community and future Roberto Coin customers, in addition to our already loyal clientele."

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

THE 24 KARAT CLUB AWARDS LULA HALFACRE On October 22nd, Lula Halfacre was honored to be one of the recipients of the prestigious 24 Karat Club 'Excellence in Service' award, alongside jewelry designer Erica Courtney. The club’s 67th Annual Fall Dinner Dance took place at The Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills and was attended by friends, family, colleagues and representatives of the jewelry industry showing their admiration and support to the two award recipients.

It was a fabulous evening, filled with all the glitz and ceremony that accompanies such a special occasion. The Traditional Jewelers team congratulates Lula Halfacre on this momentous achievement!

WINTER WONDERLAND 2011 SIGNATURE JEWELRY EVENT On a cold November evening, Traditional Jewelers aptly hosted its annual Winter Wonderland event. Thirteen jewelry designers participated, displaying some of their finest collector pieces, ranging from silver men’s jewelry to fine diamond designer pieces and much, much more. The guests had a great time doing some early holiday shopping, enjoying tunes played by DJ Drew, the 'Winter Wonderland' created by La Tulipe Floral Design, and tasting some of the finest and most delicious hors d'oeuvres by Anders Catering, paired with fine wines from Posh events.

Private Trade Winds again staged a raffle for one lucky couple to win a four-night stay in the exclusive Ko'Olina Beach Villas Resort in Oahu, Hawaii, and the benefiting charity for the evening was the Literacy Project Foundation.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS

BestBets SHAMBALLA Silver Tahitian pearl bracelet with 18K gold and pavĂŠ diamond bead, $20,440

CARRERA Y CARRERA Circle of Fire pendant with 18K gold and diamonds on a black silk cord, $45,300

CHANEL J12 Automatic in white ceramic with diamond bezel, $17,700

ARMENTA 18K gold and oxidized silver bangles, set with precious and semi-precious gems, $645 to $6,825

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ROLEX Gold Ladies Datejust with diamond bezel, $36,450

RAHAMINOV 18K rose gold and diamond pendant, $8,800

MARCO BICEGO 18K yellow gold bangle with mixed stones from the Jaipur collection, $2,790 WELLENDORFF Gold and enamel rings with diamonds, starting at $4,000

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ESCAPES

VILLA TRAVEL

PRIVATE TRADE WINDS CELEBRATES FIVE YEARS OF LOCAL BUSINESS AND LEADS THE CHARGE IN VILLA TRAVEL.

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new concept is quickly emerging in the travel industry, which beckons the luxury vacation homeowner and discerning traveler alike. It is known as villa travel, and is trending rampantly through the travel industry.

Typically, when the term villa is used, a clear reference is being made to the historic homes of Europe, and visions are conjured of centuries-old Tuscan estates. Touchstone Pictures’ Under the Tuscan Sun had passionseekers flocking to such estates in 2003, when the movie was released.

However, the more modern villa was the catalyst for the debut of Private Trade Winds, a local Newport Beach travel service now celebrating its five year anniversary. “Our company is very unique, as it serves both the luxury vacation homeowner looking to rent and trade their property, as well as the luxury traveler seeking a Five Star Villa Vacation experience with the inclusion of hotel-type services,” says Irene Aviles, founder and president of Private Trade Winds.

While classic villas will always be desired, modern villas—single family residences, resort homes, condos and even shipboard penthouses— continue to gain in popularity. A villa can be a private ranch estate in the

Sierra Nevadas, a beachfront hacienda in Mexico, or a ski-in/ski-out condo in Aspen, as long as it adheres to specifications that elevate it from a vacation home rental to a Five Star Villa Vacation. Those qualifications are simple, but each bears equal importance. A villa should be in a highly soughtafter destination, and should be in a coveted area within that destination. For instance: in a golf community, the most desirable location would be on the greens, or with golf course views. In a mountain destination, a home should be ski-in/ski-out, or have majestic views of the slopes and surrounding mountains.

The home’s interior should be rigorously vetted, from kitchen type (complete vs. gourmet) to bed linens, bath amenities and robes. Finally, a villa should offer daily housekeeping, concierge, babysitting and chef services, to name a few.

Villa travel is an exciting way to take in local surroundings and afford more space, privacy and security than a typical hotel stay. Families taking villa vacations report back with a higher sense of closeness, relaxation and a more enjoyable experience. Bringing couples, families and friends together while providing a warm and comfortable atmosphere is what vacation is all about. Through individual villa bookings, or a club-type concept for more frequent travelers, Private Trade Winds delivers just that.

Private Trade Winds is proud to launch their Destination Weddings & Events Department. As a full-service licensed travel agency, Private Trade Winds can now book travel, villa accommodation and honeymoon stay, all with the inclusion of a wedding coordinator with 20-plus years of experience! Visit privatetradewinds.com to learn more.

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ACCENT(ADVISOR) WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESS PIECES ARE MOST LIKELY TO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece that becomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautiful strand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocery store or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece of jewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.

We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited, jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one item this year, make it special and enduring.

I KNOW WOMEN WHO WEAR FASHION JEWELRY LIKE BANGLES OR BOLD CUFFS, BUT BUY THESE PIECES AT CLOTHING STORES AS OPPOSED TO JEWELERS (EVEN IF THEY HAVE TO REPURCHASE THE PIECES WHEN THEY TARNISH). WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balance trendy fashion jewelry that they don’t expect to last forever with items that they cherish, wear often and want to last.

Since a great bangle is a classic that will be in style forever, it’s worth investing in something both fabulous and enduring.

For both ladies and gents, a good watch is an absolute must! If you can invest in only one great piece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylish watch to enjoy for many years. It should cross over into any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buying both a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in the interim, one great watch transcends numerous styles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strand of pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven) shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-witheverything item to wear with denim or ball gowns; and 3) a necklace or pendant with personal meaning, like your children’s names or initials, an important date, a display of faith or spirituality. (If you’ve ever noticed women constantly touching their necklaces, it’s likely because they feel an emotional connection to the symbol.)

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WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND ESTATE JEWELRY? “Estate” is a popular jewelry label, but does not specify the period of manufacture. “Estate” is primarily used to describe jewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generally applies to jewelry items that are at least 100 years old, the benchmark used by government officials for duty-free importing of antiques.

For spring 2012, everything old is new again, so consider both of these options, or try resetting one of your own family heirlooms.

HONORA PEARLS, MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA BRACELETS

WHICH ITEMS SHOULD I CONSIDER BUYING THIS SEASON?

DESIGNERS

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COLOR POPS WARM GOLD AND SATURATED SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

The bold spheres and jewels of the Africa collection are tangible and pronounced, yet remarkably light.

n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an emotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection, filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the destinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors, exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course, he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

GETTING PERSONAL

What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration.

What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani.

What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!

Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to debut my newest collections.

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RIVIERA MAGAZINE

THE AUTHORITY ON LUXURY LIFESTYLE As the premier luxury lifestyle magazine of the area, RIVIERA Orange County is the source for the cosmopolitan reader of all things chic and

INSIDE:

KATE BECKINSALE: NEW YEAR, NEW BLOOD

au courant. Backed

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by MODERN LUXURY,

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TRENDS

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here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.

Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of childhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman, for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow, “Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and “Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTS

RENEWAL! THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS, NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important, so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.”

DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.

Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem slices with complementary opaque stones.”

SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like natural light shining through a stained glass window.

Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides, depending on the designer’s individual vision.

Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think about gemstone-slice earrings if you want something lightweight and, at the same time, very flattering; they bring light and color near the face.”

ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the most part, three dimensional, almost sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.

Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs with rough cuts are a great choice.”

ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up everywhere.

spessartite garnet, red agate.

A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This transparent diaspore gem, found only in Turkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interesting color-change properties— from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink—it’s certainly out of the ordinary, and the perfect choice for anyone looking for something unique or a true conversation starter.

Other favorites: chrysoprase, green agate, peridot, green opal, green jade, green quartz, green amethyst, green garnet, green tourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately, citrine has been particularly popular, both for its color and the variety of cutting styles being used on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the fancy of a growing number of typically high-end designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new, March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes, aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea— captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.

A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is well liked in its blue and green varieties, too.

“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT ADDING GEMSTONE JEWELRY TO THE LIST OF NATURAL MOOD ELEVATORS.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely means these gems will get even more popular as we progress through 2012.

A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: These radiant orange-red gemstones are renowned in legend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche. That said, you may have to pay the price for that profound sensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressive and fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color and transparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

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Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by Stephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Road collection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone, aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and blue topaz doublet

RED CARPET

Blonde Bombshells WITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE, WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD

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ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER

CLAIRE DANES

hough the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

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HEARD AND PFEIFFER WEAR H. STERN. DANES WEARS MCL.

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Available at:

RED CARPET smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY

KATHERINE HEIGL

MARLEY SHELTON

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

KEIBLER WEARS MCL. HEIGL WEARS SUTRA. SHELTON WEARS AMRAPALI.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING

by Karen Alberg Grossman

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed principal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable, well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, established in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally separate from the Rolex Service Center upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally responsible for creating and updating the curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students (there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two years, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80 applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose problems just visually. You need to analyze based on input and output of the mechanism: it’s behaving a certain way so the problem must be this or that. You can’t always see the problem because many watches are built in layers, so the movements might be covered, or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatest frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this, but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because even if the student has worked on hundreds of watches, the next movement that comes along might be totally different than anything he’s experienced. So it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the puzzle together: students need to understand what the parts do and how they interact and whether or not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water damage where parts are caked together), because even if spare parts are not available, we can always make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the ‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and mostly male; there are only one or two females per class), in a second career but with some previous exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some exposure, at least they know what the profession is about: having to deal all day long with these tiny parts, the responsibility of working on such valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent applicants have included bankers and real estate brokers, some from major cities. “People have more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.

“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who want jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer, “It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of the curriculum.”

On a personal note, Mayer grew up in Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused on philology and teaching. But at some point, his love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking, which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and ultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a collector: he wears a different watch every day and favors those that combine technical precision with a beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz program that he even lets his students work on his personal watches (excluding vintage handmade pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course: Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inherited from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII, the economy was down so he drove a taxi on weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get replacement parts because their factory had burned down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

“Nobody buys a fine watch just to tell time…”

—Herman Mayer

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WAY N E T H I E B A U D

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FOCUS: WINDERS

by Laurie Kahle

WINDING IT UP TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

L

ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—the ultimate of which is a completely custom installation.

(Continued)

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Explore the Energy of Creation

G/vs Diamonds & 18K Rose Gold

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.

Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests, and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your watch on a winder is also about preventative maintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to accommodate your ever-growing collection and cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,” explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard configuration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.

The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches and jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors, storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design emulates the muscular curves of the One-77 supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited production of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building a custom room, like the space commissioned by one of Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,” explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room (basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight months from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

Winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit.

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FOCUS: COLLECTING

by David A. Rose

TIME ON HIS SIDE SCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

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As a world famous racecar driver still at the top of his game, it’s remarkable that Pruett makes time for other ventures. He and his wife Judy have joined forces to establish Pruett Vineyard, as well as Word Weaver Books, publishers of a series of children’s books they authored. Not surprisingly, the theme is racing, including titles like Twelve Little Race Cars, Rookie Racer and Racing Through the Alphabet.

Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racing career, these books provide inspiration and excitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business, Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrums apart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literally minute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.

Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process; the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend of chemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m not one of these athletes who puts my name on a project without involvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved in every aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help of some incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has raced every year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was another extraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.

“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “so being the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted: I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

ROLEX / TOM O'NEAL

mong the many rewards of success in sports, perhaps the best is garnering the respect and admiration of fans and peers. But for those athletes competing in Rolex-sponsored events, the grand prize comes in the form of a luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set for themselves long before they’re strapped into their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn, California, is a true champion in all forms of motor sports, with the additional honor of having won more Rolex-sponsored races than any other driver. Thus, he has become the proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times and was awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. In all, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for his brilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “When I won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and Ford Motor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as the International Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to be invited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I were ever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolex timepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California, and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on to take the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy my first beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruett also bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

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A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDY

At the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. The grand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches, in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, the manor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor, some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce to present the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.

SCOTT CHANEY

STEP IN STYLE

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Located in a small shop on New York City’s East Side, designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection puts fashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Her unique creations can be seen in very stylish homes all over the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, the Smithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs, inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditional American quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art, are made of natural fibers including wool, silk, pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’s the only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knotted rugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!

REST ASSURED

JULIE SOEFER

DAVID TURNER PHOTOGRAPHY

Hôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even more fashionable and exclusive than the island of St. Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on a gently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area, each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its own gated entrance and a red mailbox flag that serves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoy netting-draped four-poster mahogany beds, high-tech entertainment centers and kitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plunge pools and incredible views across the lush hills to a beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier has selected superb wines and the chef creates amazing dishes (including the hotel’s signature pasta in cream with black truffles). If you choose to stir from your villa, arrangements can be made for a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, you can just put up your flag, order the excellent room service, and hide out like the other privacyseeking celebrity guests.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE ART

BUBBLES IN THE AIR

Inspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Or hotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near the museum district, owns an extensive art collection that includes Corot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to be one of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor in North America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas (like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-loving guests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, then dine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturally paired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, created by chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.

Pops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs, presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections.

Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown on Champagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is always better to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetness level] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warm and balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut.

“Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…is perhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair with oysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.”

Here’s to a sparkling summer!

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FOOD

MAKING MAGIC IN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

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or those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditional restaurant box setup, David Burke has become somewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with his fancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alley and an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize the oft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinary arts and food technology) with a penchant for whimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzle diners by name, there’s still a decent chance you’ve eaten in one of his 10 restaurants, or purchased his gourmet products. (“Burke in the Box” takeout meal at Las Vegas’ McCarran Airport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’ll recall his very near win against Bobby Flay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kissoff from Top Chef Masters.

Chef Burke has been a longtime pioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery, cooking up a career that “blurs the lines between chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through a slew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctions appearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago, Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, David Burke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by David Burke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behind Pastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and various flavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his local greenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

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You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist, inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best?

I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washer in high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when I fell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get real excitement from the energy and creative teamwork that happens in there. So all of the other things I am today came out of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy.

Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke.

Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actually do the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the business side of things.

I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me to be in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that I was going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reached the level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to be partner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company.

I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. It was the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefs as businessmen.

A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting the scene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thoughtout designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward?

When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward!

But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants, especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decorate them, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy, comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Our steakhouses are more masculine.

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want!

But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberries year round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple.

Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from Bowlmor Lanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon, spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, to David Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orange and green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eat out, and what do you like to cook at home?

I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll make gemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook for friends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab or turkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread and pickled onions.

Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little more adventurous about trying?

Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about?

We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jersey restaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little red wagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into the restaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plants that they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare it at the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that.

What’s your overall food philosophy?

I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s what is most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce market myself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish and seafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with my patented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. I bought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where my beef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We have the product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading.

It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where our stuff is coming from.

Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal” is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along?

The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t been touted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy, and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helps support American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However, you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’s absolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hard for big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; you might simply not have a good local person for something you need.

How do you please loyal customers who request something that isn’t in season?

In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

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Maple Bacon Dates Yields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:

1 ⁄4 pound peanuts 2 1⁄2 ounces honey 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon 20 seedless grapes 1 egg Flour Breadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized.

Cool and puree.

2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half piece of par-baked smoked bacon.

3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash, then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil and fry until crispy.

4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bamboo skewers and serve.

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Diamond Buying Tips

What are the most important aspects when choosing wedding and engagement rings?

The first consideration is the couple’s budget. Then the customer is informed about what to look for in a diamond, namely the 4 Cs: cut, carat, color and clarity. They should also make sure that the diamond they are considering carries a laboratory certification.

How does Traditional Jewelers assist couples in picking their rings?

Once the budget is established and financing options are discussed, the couple will decide on a diamond cut and ring style. They can choose from one of our fabulous diamond designer lines, or design their very own custom ring. Often couples have very specific ideas, which can be integrated into a fine design generated by our on-site Master Goldsmith, who upon the clients’ approval of a submitted design will custom manufacture the piece to exact specifications.

What trends do you see in the industry right now?

There is a continued trend toward the purchase of diamond jewelry, an increase in clients requesting diamond re-mounts and re-designs, and also many requests for diamond upgrades to a larger carat weight. There have also been increased requests for bridesmaids and groomsmen gift options. The trend here remains the gifting of pearls for the ladies (either stud earrings or a pearl string bracelet) and watches, pens and money clips for the gentlemen.

How do you make the process as seamless as possible?

We pride ourselves on outstanding customer service, and in order to achieve that, the client's wishes must be carefully listened to and met, and our sales professionals ensure that the client understands all available options. Once that has been established, and the client is happy with his or her selection, they are presented with a Certificate of Sale. This Certificate of Sale, along with the proper GIA certification, accompanies the purchase at no charge and equips the client with detailed documentation to adequately insure the item. Clients are always contacted after a purchase to ensure that they are happy with their decision, and are invited to visit us for free cleanings, polishing or sizing of their purchase, if needed.

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Traditional Jewelers is an established family business, servicing the local community for over 30 years. As an authorized dealer for the world's top watch and jewelry designer brands, we also offer an in-house, full service jewelery workshop, an extensive diamond inventory and a commitment to excellence. Traditional Jewelers is honored and grateful to have enjoyed the patronage of the local community for all these years and in an effort to give back, is diligent in lending its philanthropic support to over 100 local charities and educational institutions. As our logo states, we are committed to 'Exceeding Expectations' at all times.

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TRAVEL

The view from the lounge attached to one of the suites at Amangiri makes the desert seem like a private space.

Coffee is always available for early risers on the Ecoventura yachts in the Galapagos Islands.

ECO-IMMERSION

A

t its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world is new. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes every sound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journey of coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN: Cruise the Galapagos with Ecoventura The arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days as Ecoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador stands outside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabin vessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’s least-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone, you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes across black lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird and animal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche of the islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosity rather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

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AMANGIRI IMAGES COURTESY OF AMANGIRI RESORT. GALAPAGOS IMAGES BY PATRICIA HARRIS & DAVID LYON.

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOU TO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

Your Golden Angel

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lions let photographers snap their portraits with abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises) are spectacular in the Galapagos Islands.

The step pool at the spa at Amangiri glows in the falling light of dusk.

The giant tortoises of the Galapagos Islands are one of the region’s endangered species.

All the bungalows at Lapa Rios in Costa Rica are constructed of thatch.

The foot hue of blue-footed boobies varies by individual.

STRANGE CREATURES INHABIT THEIR OWN GARDEN OF EDEN

footed boobies in their comic courtship dance. Male frigate birds nearly roll over backwards on their nests, incapacitated by the red chest pouches they have inflated to lure a mate.

The strange creatures inhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing their pups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoises lumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs skitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife, but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.

(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS: Costa Rica Escape at Lapa Rios Lapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowland rainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitive tourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in the forest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches and tree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the human exception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song to add to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora and fauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous, distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforest experience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of El Remanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls. laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS: The Purifying Desert at Amangiri For thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenation in the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peaceful mountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the raw landscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as a whispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the 25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-body treatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translates as “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, daily group yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. But nothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle of illumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars. amanresorts.com

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CULTURE

CAFÉ SOCIETY

AT BUDAPEST’S FAMOUS CAFÉS, OLD WORLD CHARM IS NEW AGAIN.

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

L

ong before “café culture” flourished in Paris and Vienna, it thrived in Budapest. The joy of coffee drinking was introduced by the invading Ottoman Turks in the 1500s, and by Budapest’s Golden Age, between 1870 and 1910, there were some 500 coffee houses in the city.

In their heyday, Budapest’s cafés were cherished rendezvous spots for aspiring writers, poets, artists and intelligentsia of all stripes. People spent hours in their favorite café, sharing ideas and reading the many newspapers and periodicals available to patrons. Before the age of television and the Internet, for up-to-the-minute news and the most interesting gossip, you’d head to one of these cafés.

During this period, the cafés were so central to daily life that when the first early film reels appeared, they were projected on walls in the cafés.

(Two eventual film industry giants, director and producer Sir Alexander Korda and Oscar-winning director Michael Curtiz, were first introduced to movies this way. Later on, in Casablanca, Curtiz would recreate Budapest’s café atmosphere on the set of Rick’s Café.)

Most of the classic Budapest coffee houses had sumptuous interiors, plush furnishings, gleaming chandeliers, and high, frescoed ceilings to rival the Sistine Chapel. But, after two World Wars and the Communist era in Hungary, the old famous cafés had been destroyed or closed. In recent years, many of these once-grand cafés have been restored to their original splendor.

NEW YORK CAFÉ Opened in 1894 on the ground floor of a stylish office complex, designed by architect Alajos Hauszmann and financed by a New York life insurance company, the café was a favorite haunt of the writers and editors who worked in the building (now a five-star Boscolo hotel). For struggling writers, the New York provided free ink and paper and offered a low-cost “writer’s menu” (bread, cheese and cold cuts). During Budapest’s Golden Age, much of the city’s creative business took place here or at the Café Central.

CAFÉ CENTRÁL Opened in 1887, the Central was a popular meeting place for writers, poets, editors and artists. In the 1890s, writers sitting Above: New York Café; during Budapest’s Golden Age, it was a hotbed of creative activity.

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around the café began an influential literary periodical, A Hét (Week). A few years later, another group of regulars, who divided their time between the Central and the New York, launched Nyugat (West), which became one of the most influential Hungarian literary journals of the early 20th century.

CAFÉ GERBEAUD Founded by confectioner Henrik Kugler in 1858, this is regarded as one of the most elegant and refined cafés. In 1884, its Swiss pastry chef, Emile Gerbeaud, took over the establishment, making it as famous for its cakes as its coffee.

BOOKCAFÉ PÁRIZSI ÁRUHÁZ This stunning café is located on the third floor of what is now the Alexandra bookstore. The Art Nouveau building, designed by Zsigmond Sziklai, was opened in 1911 as Párizsi Nagy Árúház, Budapest’s first modern department store. The café, in Lotz hall, is resplendent with restored frescos (done by painter Károly Lotz), large mirrors and magnificent chandeliers.

Clockwise from top: Centrál Kávéház, a popular meeting place for writers, poets and artists.

The elegant Café Gerbeaud.

BookCafé Párizsi Áruház in Lotz hall in the Alexandra Bookstore.

Budapest’s Famous Cafés The best time to visit Budapest is between March and October; Delta and American Airlines offer direct flights. Visit www.gotohungary.com to learn more.

New York Café New York Palace Hotel at Erzsébet körút 9-11; www.newyorkcafe.hu MÛVÉSZ KÁVÉHÁZ Around since 1898, its name mûvész means artist.

Since the café is located opposite the Budapest State Opera House, it has attracted its fair share of artists and performers over the years.

CAFÉ GERLÓCZY On a leafy square, in a pretty 1892 building, the Gerlóczy has the feel of a Parisian café with its wonderful croissants and freshly-baked pastries—some consider it the best breakfast in town. At night, a harpist adds to the atmosphere. Another unique Gerlóczy offering: 15 stylish rooms in its upstairs boutique hotel, so you never have to leave!

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Café Centrál Károlyi Mihály utca 9 www.centralkavehaz.hu Café Gerbeaud Vörösmarty tér 7; www.gerbeaud.hu BookCafé Párizsi Áruház, Alexandra bookstore, Andrássy út 39 Mûvész Kávéház Andrássy út 29; www.muveszkavehaz.hu Café Gerlóczy Gerloczy u. 1; www.gerloczy.hu For an interesting read, try The Great Escape. This wonderful book by Kati Marton, about influential Hungarians, describes life in the Budapest cafés at the turn of the 20th century.

BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES

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LAST BID FOR LOVE

AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

M

y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this 1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’ “soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras, I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie.

I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection— including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond complementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the “Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the “ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2012