Traditional Jewelers by Accent Magazine

AC C E N T THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ SPRING/SUMMER 2011

FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA & MALIBU COUNTRY MART, MALIBU, CA

WELCOME

Dear Clients and Friends, It’s hard to believe 2011 is already here! Traditional Jewelers is excited about the new designs and styles for 2011. Erik has just returned from Geneva and Basel in Switzerland, where he secured the top watch styles for our clients. Bringing you the best the world has to offer in watches and jewelry continues to be our priority—and our passion. This issue of Accent is full of great gift ideas for all lifestyles and for all occasions. We are also very honored to include a special interview with our longtime friend Larry Pettinelli, president of Henri Stern Agency USA (Patek Philippe). His insight and experiences in the watch industry past and future will enlighten even the most knowledgeable watch enthusiast. Please enjoy this edition with our compliments. Don’t hesitate to contact us at 949-721-9010 if you have any

Pictured above, our Malibu store on Cross Creek Road. Fashion Island location pictured on cover.

questions, or if you have interests you would like to see featured in the next issue of Accent. You can receive even more information on our website www.traditionaljewelers.com. Cheers! Lula Halfacre CEO

Erik Halfacre President

Contents spring/summer 2011 FA S H I O N I S L A N D 203 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE

NEWPORT BEACH, CA ( 9 4 9 ) 721- 9 010 HOURS: M O N - F R I : 10 : 0 0 A M - 8 : 0 0 P M S AT : 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 7 : 0 0 P M S U N : 11 : 0 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M

COUNTRY MART 38 35 C R O S S C R E E K R OA D # 19 MALIBU, CA ( 310 ) 317- 910 0 HOURS: M O N : C LO S E D T U E S -T H U R S : 11 : 3 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M F R I & S AT : 1 2 : 0 0 P M - 9 : 0 0 P M S U N : 12 : 0 0 P M - 5 : 0 0 P M

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS J O U R N A L S FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER

Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague

FEATURES

WATCH SECTION

2 Welcome Letter

26 Watch Advisor

6 Traditional Jewelers Events

28 Interview: Larry Pettinelli of Patek Philippe

10 Best Bets 12 Accent Advisor 14 Red Carpet: Shining Stars 18 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry 22 Profile: Mikimoto 34 Speed: Grand Sport 36 Perfect Gems

30 What’s New: Fashionably on Time 3 1 Travel: Watch Lover’s Mecca 32 First Person: Hand-Me-Downs Welcome 33 Collecting: Passion or Investment?

PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Beth Bernstein DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti PRODUCTION MANAGER

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

40 Spirits: Orange You Glad? 43 Advice: Diamond Buying Tips

44 Travel: Into Africa

Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821;

CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384

46 Art: Man’s Best Friend in the Spotlight

claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.

SCAN. EXPLORE.

FIND YOUR TAG HEUER

Invented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer and reengineered for our new in-house Calibre 1887 movement, the oscillating pinion enables our CARRERA chronograph to start in less than 2/1000th of a second.

1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

2010 ANNUAL WATCH EVENT On September 16th, Traditional Jewelers and Riviera magazine co-hosted the 2010 Annual Watch Event at Traditional Jewelers’ flagship store at Fashion Island, Newport Beach. The casino-themed event brought more than 400 guests into the store to view the fine watch selections presented for this occasion. Representatives of 12 of the world’s most renowned watch brands displayed their fine merchandise, and Valley View Casinos provided a weekend getaway to two lucky winners of the casino-inspired raffles. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak timepiece was gifted to one special guest at the end of the evening. A percentage of the proceeds of the evening’s sales was donated to ASAS, (After School All Stars) represented by celebrity guest, San Diego Chargers star Shaun Phillips.

AUDEMARS PIGUET COLLECTORS DINNER AT THE PELICAN HILL RESORT On October 25th Traditional Jewelers was delighted to host an Audemars Piguet Collectors Dinner at the fine Pelican Hill Resort. Hosting for Audemars Piguet were president Francois Bennahmias, vice president Stefano Maddalena and sales manager Robert Ronen. Invited guests were captured by a detailed presentation of the brand along with visuals and an outstanding collection of Audemars Piguet timepieces, many of which were expressly brought in for this special occasion.

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

OLIVIA WILDE HOSTS TRADITIONAL JEWELERS HOLIDAY PARTY AT THE COUNTRY MART LA Confidential and Traditional Jewelers were honored to have actor Olivia Wilde host our annual holiday party at the Malibu Country Mart on November 20th. As a member of the board of Young Artists for Peace and Justice, Olivia Wilde captured the guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attention with her passionate and eloquent account of the wonderful work this charity is doing for the people of Haiti after the terrible disaster that has left so many destitute, hungry and with little hope. The guests were moved and motivated to take care of some early holiday shopping, and our thanks go out to all of them for their generous support of Young Artists for Peace and Justice.

PATEK PHILIPPE VISITS TRADITIONAL JEWELERS AT FASHION ISLAND Traditional Jewelers, an authorized Patek Philippe retailer, was honored to welcome Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern, VP Jerome Pernici and USA president Larry Pettinelli at the Fashion Island store on November 10th. Patek Philippe is one of our most popular brands and Traditional Jewelers prides itself on the outstanding collection of timepieces available at the store. It was delightful to spend some time with the Patek Philippe team and we look forward to yet another successful year with this fine brand.

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS RECEIVES 2011 ‘BEST OF NEWPORT BEACH’ AWARD U.S. COMMERCE ASSOCIATION’S AWARD PLAQUE HONORS THE ACHIEVEMENT

HARPER’S BAZAAR RECOGNIZES TRADITIONAL JEWELERS Traditional Jewelers has been recognized by Harper’s Bazaar as a Jewelry Leader, their most prestigious jewelry retail award. Harper’s Bazaar Jewelry Leaders are hand-picked from among the nation’s top jewelry retailers based on their exceptional service, excellent reputation and unparalleled merchandise. As a Jewelry Leader, Harper’s Bazaar is happy to support Traditional Jewelers and partner with us to serve America’s most stylish women.

NEW YORK, NY, January 27, 2011 — Traditional Jewelers has been selected for the 2011 Best of Newport Beach Award in the Jewelers category by the U.S. Commerce Association (USCA). The USCA “Best of Local Business” Award Program recognizes outstanding local businesses throughout the country. Each year, the USCA identifies companies that they believe have achieved exceptional marketing success in their local community and business category. These are local companies that enhance the positive image of small business through service to their customers and community. This is the first year that a business has qualified as a four-time award winner. Various sources of information were gathered and analyzed to choose the winners in each category. The 2011 USCA Award Program focuses on quality, not quantity. Winners are determined based on the information gathered both internally by the USCA and data provided by third parties.

WINTER WONDERLAND 2010 ANNUAL JEWELRY EXTRAVAGANZA On November 18th Traditional Jewelers and Riviera magazine hosted the annual signature jewelry extravaganza, titled ‘Winter Wonderland’ to celebrate the holidays and give our guests a chance to do some early holiday shopping. The atmosphere was warm and the grand selection of fine designer jewelry represented at the event caught everyone’s attention. The benefitting charity for the evening was Marconi Foundation for Kids.

BestBets MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER

A. LANGE & SOEHNE

BAUME & MERCIER

Women's Referenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Linea

Men's Referenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Capeland

Ladies Little Saxonia watch in 18K yellow gold with diamond bezel on a white leather strap. Price available upon request

Chronograph, with black dial in stainless steel, red gold plated numerals and hands on a black calf strap with contrasting yellow stitching. $3,600

DAVID YURMAN

TAG HEUER CARRERA

This Baume & Mercier Capeland watch features a 44mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel case, La JouxPerret 8147-2 automatic flyback chronograph movement, sapphire crystal case back, decorated oscillating weight, off-white domed dial with Arabic numerals and blued "Breguet" shaped steel hands. Black alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle. This watch is water resistant to 50 meters. $7,000

Linea features a 27mm polished and satinfinished stainless steel case with 0.6 carats of diamonds on the bezel. Quartz movement, decorated case back, mother of pearl dial with riveted indexes, date function, a polished/satinfinished steel bracelet that is interchangeable with a black satin bracelet. This watch is water resistant to 50 meters. $4,900

The Classic Watch Timepiece Collection. 38mm stainless steel case and bracelet, diamond bezel, mother of pearl dial with diamond markers, Swiss Made. $5,700

Calibre 1887 Automatic Chronograph, 41mm, stainless steel. $4,300

RAHAMINOV

IPPOLITA

From the key collection: necklace, $4,000; ring: $6,660; earrings $6,500 to $10,000

TOP LEFT: 18K gold Modern Rock Candy three-drop earrings in turquoise, $1,795 BOTTOM LEFT: 18K gold Modern Rock Candy large stone ring in turquoise, $3,300 TOP RIGHT: 18K gold Modern Rock Candy Hero bangle in mother of pearl, $5,200

SHAMBALLA 18K rose gold with black diamond bead and black Tahitian pearl, $16,260

AARON BASHA

DAVID YURMAN

Delicate diamond and enamel baby shoe pendant on a silk string. Price upon request

Wide Crossover cuff in sterling silver, $1,100 Sterling Silver and diamond cuff bracelet, $4,750

MARCO BICEGO Open 18K gold and pearl bracelets $1,840, $1,220 and $4,400

ACCENTADVISOR

HOW DO I MIX FINE AND FASHION JEWELRY?

I’VE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF BLACK USED IN FINE JEWELRY. WHAT ARE THE KEY

Use a pretty black dress or a simple top as the backdrop for mixing pieces. Wear a gold medallion

STONES AND METALS, AND HOW CAN I WEAR THEM?

pendant along with multiple chains in blackened and tonal antiqued base metal. Or you can mix in real baroque pearls with a large colored pendant in crystal rather than a precious gem. A low-risk way to mix real and faux is on the wrist; you have more room to be playful as it’s further from your face. Here, mix leather or suede wrap styles with pavé charms, or Bakelite and wood with precious stones. Throw in some high karat gold thin bangles to create a truly eclectic look. This season, designers are even mixing these materials into one piece to offer a statement at an affordable price. But if you prefer simplicity, stick to a pair of cuffs in wood with center gemstones, and a mesh necklace with chains of matte gold. The combination will be different and dramatic, and take you through the season in style.

The trend started with designers adding a black rhodium finish to white gold and mixing it with high karat yellow gold for a richer look. As the darker metal began to sell and the prices for gold went up, the next step was to use blackened or highly oxidized silver. (Some designers still use black rhodium plated 18K white gold, which can mean a slightly higher price tag.) These metals look great with the of-the-moment diamonds—also black—which are spectacular in rose, brilliant and polished rough cuts. Black can be done in styles from gothic to feminine, such as pavé leaves and flowers with a black diamond center. If you want to add color to your black jewelry look, try a hint of rough cut fancy sapphires, the pretty watercolor shades of moonstones and aquamarines, or the

IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY

more saturated orange hues of citrines.

RED CARPET

Shining Stars AWARDS SEASON PROVIDES A PLETHORA OF CELEBRITY EYE CANDY BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Amy Adams

Kim Kardashian

ith a smile like that, who needs jewelry? Halle Berry and her earrings were radiant at the 13th Annual Costume Designer Guild Awards, held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. Take your spring style cue from her and try a piece that mixes different stone colors and metal tones. Here, white and champagne diamonds set in black and yellow gold are subtle, but so-right-now. At the Vanity Fair Campaign Hollywood 2011 Kick-off with Chrysler, Amy Adams chose a classic earring shape with a modern twist. Her textured hoops in blackened gold were an unexpected surprise peeking out from underneath those perfectly tousled waves. Reality star Kim Kardashian rocked a bold yellow gold choker and simple studs at the People’s Choice Awards in L.A.’s Nokia Theater. While her show, Keeping Up With the Kardashians, won the award for TV’s Guiltiest Pleasure, her Art Nouveau-inspired necklace was our pick for eye-catching accessory.

JEWELRY THIS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: AMRAPALI, HELLMUTH, RINA LIMOR

Halle Berry

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RED CARPET

LeAnn Rimes

Nicky Hilton

She plays the love interest of a devilish serial killer on Showtime’s Dexter, but Julia Stiles looked heavenly in star-shaped stud earrings at the 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards. A dramatic ruffle and bold fuchsia lips—both huge trends this spring—made for stellar red carpet style. LeAnn Rimes sparkled in sequins at the Grammys. Head-to-toe metallic can be hard to accessorize, but her stacked gold bangles and mother of pearl earrings complemented instead of competed with her beautifully draped gown. It’s tough to contend with angel wings covered in peacock feathers, but at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Nicky Hilton’s diamond necklace and earrings were almost as jaw-dropping as the models. Almost.

JEWELRY THIS PAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: H. STERN, AMRAPALI, MOUAWAD

Julia Stiles

TRENDS

The Joy of Jewelry COLORFUL GEMS FIT FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

THE GEMS Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple, are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures, he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality at affordable prices.

IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN

his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the direction of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color. Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way to do that.”

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LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down

“This year, you’re also going to see more engagement ring center stones in blues and greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back in 1981, when she received the engagement ring from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great option for women who don’t want to be too ‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem of great color.” At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neongreen tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges, all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it represents a definite style direction.” In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are also premiering dazzling fashion collections with great green gems, especially green tourmalines, peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates, green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.” The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of The Pantone Color Institute, which named ‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really works well as a neutral and we see people more inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says. This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as its number-one fashion color and, for spring/summer, the passion for purple continues, with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry designers are showing violet gem creations in everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and quartzes.

the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you have another option. Instead of investing in one massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be to buy several long chains and links that can each be doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can experiment and create many different looks, for both daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces, graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In this season of bold color, choose one with a bright gemstone center. EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these supersized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only accessory. GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck. It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom, allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in the way natural light shines through a stained glass window. MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve been wearing forever, this is the season to start collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If you want to stick to karat gold for your precious metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold colors to choose from: rose, blackened and sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece slightly changes the look of the color. (For example, a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe, you’ll see how all the shades really do work together. And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of jewelry is collecting it over time.

FIVE TO BUY Now that you know what these post-winter pickme-up colors and coordinating gemstones are, which jewelry pieces in particular should you be considering? Ultimately that depends on your individual style as well as what jewelry you already own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we highly recommend: BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item adorning spring runway models was the big bangle, and they usually wore two or three per arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured stones, beads, or some sort of bright embellishment.

www.canali.it

GARYS

Fashion Island Newport Beach 949.759.1622

PROFILE Mikimoto strands are world-renowned for their perfectly matched pearls; this process becomes exponentially more difficult when strands are longer.

Timeless Beauty

MIKIMOTO CULTURED PEARLS—A PERFECT BALANCE OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

A Unique History

After many years of trials and tribulations, Kokichi Mikimoto succeeded in creating the world’s first cultured pearl in 1893. He then sent artisans on missions to Europe to master the techniques of jewelry production and design. This knowledge, supplemented by the Japanese aesthetics of form, line and workmanship, produced the distinctive originality of Mikimoto designs. In 1899, equipped with his first collection, Mr. Mikimoto opened the first Mikimoto Pearl Store, Japan’s first specialty pearl shop, in Tokyo’s Ginza district. After improving his cultivating and harvesting techniques, he was able to ship his product overseas, making cultured pearls available to women around the world.

IMAGES COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO

f all the love stories over the ages, does anything beat the intensity of Cleopatra and Marc Antony? Betting him that she could consume the wealth of an entire nation in one meal, Cleopatra removed a pearl earring, crushed it, and drank the powder mixed with wine. Under her spell and hopelessly enchanted, Antony neglected his duties to the Roman Empire, thus changing forever the course of history. Since ancient times, pearls have indeed symbolized everything from purity of love to victory in battle. From symbol of chastity to mystical aphrodisiac, pearls have reflected the power of love. Worn by ancient Greeks at their wedding ceremonies to ensure marital bliss (and prevent new brides from crying), pearls are worn today by modern brides for strangely similar reasons. After all this time, pearls still represent innocence, sophistication and timeless beauty. In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto successfully created the world’s first cultured pearl, launching today’s cultured pearl industry and making cultured pearls available to women all over the world. The company is internationally respected for its dedication to beauty and quality. Since each pearl is as different and individual as a fingerprint, quality grading standards are essential. Mikimoto has maintained the highest standards of quality and consistency by devoting more than a century to understanding the sea and researching the oyster. They’ve developed a proprietary grading system,

unique within the cultured pearl industry. Although no single factor can solely represent the worth of a pearl, luster and surface perfection are most important. There are four Mikimoto grades: A, A+, AA and AAA, with AAA being the highest quality. A mere three to five pearls out of every 100 harvested are deemed worthy to bear the Mikimoto name. While there is nothing more cherished than a classic strand of Mikimoto pearls, numerous fashion options abound. For 2011, these include:

LONGER STRANDS Ranging in length from 32 to an astounding 100 inches, these longer strands are the perfect accessory and a wonderful gift for today’s modern woman. Taking the classic beauty of a traditional choker to a whole new level, these versatile strands, whether worn for day or evening, alone or layered with another piece of jewelry, add glamour to any occasion. Not only a unique fashion look, these long strands truly showcase the superior quality for which Mikimoto is revered. Each strand is a work of art, requiring incredible skill, judgment and craftsmanship. Mikimoto strands are worldrenowned for their perfectly matched pearls and this process becomes exponentially more difficult when strands are longer. Demanding the finest judgment and artistic sense, only Mikimoto has the ability to sort and match such long lengths of pearls.

PEARLS IN MOTION

contrast to the classic, feminine elegance of white pearls, Mikimoto Black South Seas are pearls with attitude, emitting an air of confidence. Day or night, from the boardroom to the runway, Black South Sea pearls are the perfect complement to any outfit, and an icon of style and taste. Because of their breathtaking natural hues, fashion mavens and connoisseurs alike consider Mikimoto’s Black South Sea cultured pearls to be among the most distinctive of all gems. With their hypnotic depth of color ranging from light gray to peacock green to midnight black, these treasures of the sea seem lit from within, conferring a remarkable radiance and sophistication upon those fortunate enough to wear them. In 1914, Kokichi Mikimoto established a culturing site for Black South Sea pearl oysters on Ishigaki Island in Okinawa, Japan. Since that time, the brand has remained the authority on Black South Sea cultured pearls of the highest quality. Almost a century later, Black South Sea jewelry remains a formidable fashion trend as style-savvy consumers are embracing these gems as never before. Mikimoto’s international design team uses Black South Sea cultured pearls to create jewels of impeccable style and quality, from a perfectly-matched choker to a multi-colored 45” strand that can be layered or wrapped.

CARING FOR PEARLS

The rules are simple:

Wipe gently with a soft cloth after wearing and store separately so they don’t get scratched. Remember: pearls are organic gemstones, and thus vulnerable to acid, alkaline and humidity. That said, pearls beg to be worn; left alone in a box they risk dehydration, so wear them often and flaunt your elegance and style!

With Pearls in Motion, the possibilities are unlimited. This unique concept in jewelry design offers the versatility to wear Mikimoto cultured pearls in an infinite number of ways. Place the cultured pearls anywhere along the slim, elegant chain. The gems will remain in place thanks to Mikimoto’s exclusive, patented mechanism.

BLACK SOUTH SEA Mikimoto Black South Sea cultured pearls, with their exotic origins and mysterious color palette, are a versatile must-have for today’s trendsetters looking to make an edgy fashion statement. In direct

BAROQUE COUTURE COLLECTION

The natural beauty of Mikimoto’s Baroque South Sea cultured pearls is derived from their superb luster and irregular, yet beautiful, silhouettes. The unique organic shapes of these pearls make them a constant marvel to behold, a true fashion statement and conversation piece. Baroque Couture is a collection of one-of-a-kind Mikimoto jewelry inspired by the Baroque pearl. The Baroque Couture Collection uses the distinctive shape and size of each individual pearl as the subject of each exclusive design. Nature determines the setting and Mikimoto designers fulfill each pearl’s destiny. Says Amy Kim-Araneo, Mikimoto’s vice president of product development and design: “Designing baroque pearl jewelry is incredibly exciting and challenging because no two pearls are alike, so each piece takes on its own personality. The unique shape of each pearl truly dictates the design…as if it knows what it wants to be. The organic, fluid designs of Baroque Couture really conform to the body and showcase a more modern, less traditional look in pearl jewelry.”

MONTBLANC. THE TIMEWRITERS.

From its Greek origin, the word “chronograph” literally means “writing time” and the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic does it to perfection. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, this classic timepiece will elegantly mark the memorable moments of your life. 43 mm stainless steel case, skelleted horns and sapphire crystal back, black dial with red gold-plated hands and indexes.

montblanc.com

203 newport center drive t newport beach t 949-721-9010

ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011

getty 1 / Peter Dazeley

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

WATCHES

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES

WATCH ADVISOR

IS IT OKAY TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH?

IMAGE COURTESY OF TW STEEL

If you love it, why not?

Unless you’re talking about a tacky plastic watch, most of today’s better sports watches are thin enough to wear as an everyday watch, and offer features that most of us appreciate even at home or in the office. These can include water resistance, built-in chronographs, readable dials and various subdials, calendars and other complications. That said, there’s nothing classier than a beautiful dress watch and for spring 2011, classical elegance is all the rage. Our suggestion: build a watch wardrobe that includes both sports and dress watches and alternate according to the occasion, and your mood.

WHAT ARE MECHANICAL WATCHES AND WHY ARE THEY SO EXPENSIVE?

As opposed to quartz watches that function electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a spring which must be periodically wound. A series of gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back and forth at a constant rate. A device called an escapement releases the wheels with each swing of the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine materials. But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!

I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950 S ; IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?

GETTY 1/ RTI IMAGES

T H E D E C I S I O N T O R E S T O R E A V I N TA G E T I M E P I E C E is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless. That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen. In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in some cases, make the part by hand. Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement. 26

With its soft lines and subtle alternating ﬁnishes, the Linea is a timeless icon of femininity that naturally becomes associated with life’s most beautiful highlights. Each Linea is ﬁtted with an interchangeable strap.www.baume-et-mercier.com

by Roberta Naas

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

FOCUS: INTERVIEW

THE NEXT GENERATION PATEK PHILIPPE IS ALWAYS LOOKING AHEAD.

atek Philippe has long been regarded as the epitome of watchmaking. This legendary family-owned, Geneva-based brand has been crafting some of the finest watches in the world since 1839. Indeed, it has an impressive 70 patents to its credit and has won an amazing number of awards throughout its existence. Still, the brand continues to push the technological envelope, always on the cutting edge of research and development in an effort to bring the best horological masterpieces to the forefront. This manufacture produces everything in house according to the strictest standards of excellence. For this and other reasons, the brand can easily stand by its tagline: “You never really own a Patek Philippe; you merely look after it for the next generation.” Indeed, perhaps more so than any other watch brand, Patek Philippe timepieces hold their value from decade to decade, century to century. In fact, Patek Philippe holds a record for achieving 15 of the 16 highest

prices ever paid for a timepiece at auction. What’s more, at a Christie’s auction this past spring, a one-of-a-kind 1944 Ref. 1527 chronograph garnered $5.7 million, breaking a record for any yellow gold watch ever sold at auction. Naturally, the value of these watches lies in their incredible workmanship and esteemed complexity. Patek Philippe makes about 42,000 watches per year for worldwide consumption— and of the more complicated pieces, a very limited number are built. Only the finest, handpicked jewelers around the globe are selected to carry this brand. Here, in an exclusive interview, Larry Pettinelli, president of Patek Philippe, USA, discusses the steadfast commitment of the brand to excellence and its belief that even the younger generation—one that flicks open its iPhones to check the time—can still

The value of these watches lies in the incredible workmanship and esteemed complexity.

Above: Men’s Annual Calendar, Ladies’ Nautilus 28

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

FOCUS: INTERVIEW

understand the affinity for a timepiece New York (instead of Switzerland). that will long outlast them. “We also work more closely than ever Pettinelli has been at the helm of with our retail jewelers to give them and Patek Philippe in the U.S. for four years their customers access to what they need now, but he has been with the company in terms of fine products,” says Pettinelli. since 1988, when he started as a trainee “We know that people have milestones in carrying watches for the son of the their lives to celebrate, and that they want distributor. It was two years before to pick things with value, especially today Pettinelli was even allowed to write an when they are scrutinizing every dollar order, and four years before he started they spend. A Patek Philippe will have discussing actual sales with retailers. inherent value from the minute they “‘There’s no reason to rush,’ I purchase it to 20 years down the road, and remember the owners telling me,” says 100 years down the road.” Pettinelli, “’Because when we hire According to Pettinelli, he has built a someone, we hire them to stay for a long younger, higher-energy-level team at time.’” Patek Philippe that understands today’s nd stay a long generation. “We don’t rest on our laurels, time, he did. Larry Pettinelli, president, Patek Philippe, USA or take for granted that we are Patek and Today, 22 years that’s it,” says Pettinelli. “We keep later, Pettinelli developing new products, strategies and heads the relationships. Our retailers are our c o m p a n y in partners, and we try to give them great America and admits that the time has tools for their customers—for generations gone by in a heartbeat. As the to come.” awareness of Swiss watches rose, Among the most recent “great tools” Patek Philippe reached iconic status. are Annual Calendar watches, especially As vintage watch collecting grew and Refs. 5205 and 5207, the Nautilus global auctions became more and timepieces for women and men, and the more prevalent, the value of Patek exciting steel Twenty-4 for women. Philippe timepieces became world Additionally, Patek Philippe takes its renowned. The brand blossomed and Generations ad campaign to a different the challenges were met in the U.S. as level, based on the concept of “Begin Your they were around the world: with a creed of exclusivity, Own Tradition.” It is centered on the emotions inherent in perfection and innovation. relationships (fathers and sons, mothers and daughters) and In the four years Pettinelli has been in charge in America, conveys the enduring value and beauty of something precious. he has taken a tighter reign over the brand’s distribution: The new campaign introduces the line “Something truly closing about 40 retail doors and making the product even precious holds its beauty forever.” more exclusive. Just about 100 retailers across America are now “It’s important to emphasize that we are building watches authorized to carry Patek Philippe timepieces. Those that do for the next generation, not just for now,” says Pettinelli. “We are are superbly trained, and most travel to Switzerland to visit the not an old, stodgy, conservative company. We offer newness, workshops and witness the revered watches being built. In innovation and excitement.” typical Patek Philippe style, the brand has also reorganized the way it services watches under warranty in America, and now offers faster turnaround by servicing most of their models in Left: Ladies’ Twenty-4

“It’s important to emphasize that we are building watches for the next generation, not just for now,” says Pettinelli.

by Laurie Kahle

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

FOCUS: WHAT’S NEW

FASHIONABLY ON TIME

CURVES AHEAD The French word délice translates to delight, an emotion that Cartier intends to conjure with its new ladies’ watch collection, Délices de Cartier, which launches in June. Comparing the lozenge-shaped watch to a baker’s confection, Cartier once again demonstrates its design mastery by manipulating basic shapes to present something new and aesthetically intriguing. By positioning the smoothly-tapered, oval-shaped case on the diagonal across the wrist, designers created a curvaceous and feminine timepiece available in three sizes in 18K rose or white gold. The watch exudes a different personality depending on whether you choose the shimmering gold bracelet or sleek toile strap, and, of course, with varying amounts of brilliant-cut diamonds sprinkled on the case and dial. Amid Cartier’s highly impressive lineup of innovative complicated timepieces this year, Délices de Cartier is a chic reminder of the simple pleasure of a beautiful design.

Chronomat 01

$12,070

Breitling has created the chronograph par excellence A perfect fuselage, an exceptional engine: Breitling has launched a highly exclusive instrument set to establish itself as the benchmark among mechanical chronographs. A strong, unique and quintessential design. A fine blend of power and elegance. Built to provide maximum sturdiness and functionality, the Chronomat 01 is designed for devotees of great accomplishments. This top-notch sports model is equipped with Caliber 01, entirely developed and produced by Breitling: a reliable and ultra-precise motor with an original and innovative architecture. By uniting refined aesthetics and raw performance in the Chronomat 01, Breitling has redefined the mechanical chronograph.

Breitling proprietary Caliber 01. Chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch. Chronometer-certified (COSC). Selfwinding mechanism guaranteeing over 70 hours of power reserve. Patented zero-reset system. Instant calendar adjustable at any time. 47 jewels.

w w w. b r e i t l i n g . c o m

by Joseph Ungoco

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

FOCUS: FIRST PERSON

HAND-ME-DOWNS WELCOME A MILESTONE WATCH PASSED AMONG FAMILY GIVES THE PHRASE NEW MEANING.

s my plane touched down at LAX, the pilot cheerily reminded us to set our watches back three hours to the local time. I glanced at my hand-me-down Rolex, my father’s stainless steel Air-King Oyster Perpetual, bought for his swearing in as a U.S. citizen on July 4, 1965. This watch had kept him on time for more than a decade. I honestly couldn’t recall the last time I had worn this watch on a plane, but this would be its last transcontinental crossing on my wrist. My father gave me “The Air-King”, his very first Rolex, on my 11th birthday. Two months prior, to commemorate his own birthday, he had “invested in” an 18 karat yellow gold and stainless steel Datejust with Jubilee bracelet, pulling ahead of his stainless steel-clad siblings in our family version of the Rolex Stakes. (The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand, but the ’80s brought my family’s obsession to a whole new level.) Later that year, my father took me with him to the watchmaker’s shop, where we had the Air-King cleaned, the crystal polished, and the luminous hour markers and hands repainted—an annual tradition. Just as I thought we were ready to leave, the watchmaker came forward with a green leather box stamped with a gold coronet. Inside was the

matching women’s version of my father’s new watch. That summer, my mother handed her stainless steel Rolex with the Oyster bracelet—an engagement present from my father—down to her younger sister for her birthday. Years later, before my 30th birthday, I called my watch dealer about buying myself a special watch—perhaps a brand new Submariner. But when I arrived at his shop, he had found the perfect tribute to my milestone birthday: a watch exactly as old as me. It was a mint condition 1969 18 karat yellow gold Rolex Date with graduated Oyster bracelet. Its South American seller swore it had sat untouched in his father’s safety deposit box for at least 25 years! I was assured that after a quick swipe of my credit card, a slightly longer FBI check (for the watch, not me) and a thorough inspection (again for the watch), this gorgeous timepiece would be mine. My “new” Rolex arrived just in time to accompany me to my birthday party. I lived happily with my Rolexes for several years, until the event that prompted this story: my godson’s birthday. The fourth of six boys, he was well acquainted with the phrase “hand-me-down”, but I think that my present to him that day—a green leather box with a gold coronet, the Air-King safely tucked inside—may have changed his opinion of that phrase forever. At least I hope so…

The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand.

by Jeffrey Felner

ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME

FOCUS: COLLECTING

PASSION OR INVESTMENT? WHETHER FOR INVESTMENT OR FOR THE PURE JOY OF IT, COLLECTING TIMEPIECES IS SERIOUS BUSINESS.

nlike collecting coins or stamps, watch collecting reflects myriad passions: the passion for beauty, for craftsmanship, for precision, for personal style. Talk to watch collectors and one learns that the process is almost visceral: the urge to touch and try on a fine timepiece; the need for the next one, and then the next… (Is there a Watch Collectors Anonymous? Perhaps there should be…) Yes, it’s an expensive hobby (the cost of the watch plus maintenance and insurance), but collectors defend their habit, relying on a trusted jeweler or dealer as their ultimate authority. Collectors’ favorites these days include Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe and Omega. For the more serious collector, consider Breguet and Audemars Piguet. Those who invest rather than collect are far more brand-conscious, knowing that the value of a particular watch over time depends on its condition and rarity, but also knowing that the stature and reputation of a certain brand contributes much

to a watch’s value. Investors are generally more concerned about a watch’s inner workings and complications than about its outer appearance. If you do your homework (and if you’re lucky), the watch you purchase for $125,000 from your jeweler could be worth $6 million at Christie’s or Sotheby’s 25 years from now. (But don’t count on it…) That said, chances are the more you spend, the more your watch will be worth in the long run. But if you’re in it for the sheer joy of collecting, follow your heart, buy what you love (from a reputable dealer of course) and then flaunt your prized possession for all to admire. After all, a watch is more than a timepiece, more than a status symbol, more than a precious jewel and family heirloom (although it is all of these things). For more than any other acquisition, a fine watch speaks volumes about the one who wears it.

Chances are the more you spend, the more your watch will be worth in the long run.

SPEED

Grand Sport THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY BY DAVID A. ROSE

on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born. Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956, many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550 Spyder identical to the one James Dean planned to race 55 years ago. Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages of coffee table books, in museums or in movies. Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is Top: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. Center left: A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham Wallis. Center right: Some of the many cars raced or built by Dan Gurney. Bottom right: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno.

ROLEX / STEPHAN COOPER

t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of the car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-

Left: Luc Slijpen from the Netherlands stands next to his original, unrestored 1925 Type 35 Bugatti. Bottom left: Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence. Below: Patrick Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP.

fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these magnificent events.” Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13 countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.) At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American

racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula 1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in 1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa Francorchamps in the beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and admiration of peers and race fans around the world. As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport, and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.” Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy as we were,” said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each other and new generations appreciating similar things.” The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a showcase for luxury and glamour. Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions, cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to enjoy. The week-long festival of automobile culture culminates with the internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where some of the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function, history and style. As trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo and participants head for home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable.

PerfectGems

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

CAPE ESCAPE Nestled on 25 acres atop a bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Chatham Bars Inn has been a landmark on Cape Cod since 1914. The hotel is famous for its extensive outdoor activities and lavish dining. But now guests can also indulge in the comfort of a contemporary spa that boasts a dozen king and queen-size suites, each with a hydrotherapy tub, sauna, steam shower, plasma TV, Bose sound system and fireplace. This spring, the spa is featuring a renewal and cleansing treatment that includes a body polish made of sugar drenched in plant oils, an application of botanical Shea butter, a linen body wrap, and face massage.

Since 1989, the Garden Conservancy has been restoring and preserving America’s exceptional gardens, from those made by wardens and prisoners at San Francisco’s Alcatraz Island (at left) to the Pearl Fryar topiary garden in South Carolina. Along with lectures and events, the group also offers members of the Garden Conservancy’s Society of Fellows the opportunity to see some of the most lavish gardens in the world. This year, along with U.S. destinations, the Fellows are traveling to Île de France to see Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, a 17th century Baroque chateau and garden designed by the André le Nôtre (who later designed the gardens at Versailles), and Normandy to visit Château de Brécy, another 17th century chateau with a meticulously restored Italian style garden.

ABOVE: CHATHAM BARS INN; AT LEFT: GARDEN CONSERVANCY

GARDEN VARIETY

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ELYSIAN HOTEL

GETTY 1

YADES GREEK HISTORICAL HOTELS

On a narrow cobblestone street in Rethymnon old town on the island of Crete, a small, unassuming doorway opens to a large courtyard filled with masses of bougainvillea. A central fountain is surrounded by antiques, works of art, comfortable sofas and tables set with flowers. This stunning setting is the very fashionable restaurant of the Hotel Avli. Greeks come from all over the island for the superb food made from local sources and the incomparable Greek wines (the Avli has the largest wine cellar on Crete). Now a member of the prestigious Yades hotels, the Avli was once the home of a Venetian lord, and the elegant architecture and gracious style of the past remain. There are only seven (very chic) suites, each designed in an individual color theme with every modern convenience carefully integrated into the exposed stone, wood beams and original Venetian arches. Have a glass of wine on the rooftop and look out over this beautiful town to the sea.

PICNIC PLEASURES A quiet afternoon. China plates, good silver, a vintage tablecloth. And these sophisticated pairings from sommelier and gourmet Edward Costa, director of food and beverage at New York’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel. These elements combine to create a truly chic picnic with European flair. To evoke the flavor of a romantic afternoon in Italy, mingle the sharp and nutty flavors of Parmigiano Reggiano with the gentle Sangiovese grapes in Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Monna Lisa, 2006. Or, to give your picnic sparkle, try the light citrus Borgo Magredo Prosecco that highlights the flavors of smoked salmon. If you prefer a French ambiance, a fresh, crisp rosé is the perfect wine on a warm afternoon. Robert Oatley Rosé, 2008 is ideal with any chicken dish. And of course there must be champagne (and caviar). The bright and refreshing citrus flavors of Perrier Jouet Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blanc, 1999 is a perfect match to the creaminess and richness of Osetra caviar. For a picnic of this caliber, pearls are appropriate.

KIDDING AROUND Guest rooms at the Elysian Hotel in Chicago boast white Carrera marble bathrooms with soaking tubs, inset LCD televisions and separate showers. Rooms have fireplaces and expansive terraces, and the beds are draped with 460-thread count Rivolta Carmignani Italian linens. To give couples traveling with children an opportunity to enjoy all these appurtenances, the hotel invites kids to the kitchens of either Balsan or Ria, the hotel’s restaurants, for a cooking session with the pastry chef. They “assist” in the preparation of a dessert such as Balsan’s Paris Brest, a cream-filled pastry, or Ria’s spiced hazelnut cake, nestled in ice cream and topped with cherries and hazelnuts. When the creation is finished, the kids get to take it with them. Maybe they’ll share.

SPIRITS

Orange You Glad? ORANGES RETURN TO SPIRITS, COCKTAILS AND CULINARY CULTURE BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

enewed interest in the cocktail over the past few years means highquality citrus fruits, from the exotic (yuzu, dragonfruit) to the everyday (lemons and limes), have come to the fore as important drink ingredients. Lost in this renaissance until recently, the unassuming orange. Oranges were a luxury in Marie Antoinette’s day when any manor worth its zest boasted an orangerie greenhouse. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the cognescenti drank Planter’s Punch, which included exotic ingredients like rum and orange juice. Unfortunately, somewhere in the 1960s, oranges got a bad rap following one too many corny Polynesian restaurants and a cocktail culture that devolved the Tequila Sunrise into a syrupy mess. Thankfully, these days the lowly orange is squeezing into better cocktails and cuisine. In drinking establishments around the country orange bitters, orange flower water, Orgeat and orange marmalade are all increasingly common ingredients on the bar. They’re also showing up inside the bottle, in both liqueurs and the hard stuff. Where once tipplers chose between pricey Cointreau or Grand Marnier and cheap, sugary triple secs for their Margaritas and Sidecars, an entire shelf’s-worth of premium options is now available, including Combier and Mathildé Orange XO (both out of France), Creole Schrubb (Martinique) and Patrón Citronge (Mexico). Each has a distinctive flavor profile ranging from “intense, fresh orange” to “creamsicle,” something to consider when crafting drinks. Combier, for example, uses a blend of sun-dried sweet and bitter orange peels for a not-too-sweet, palate-cleansing finish. You can also now seek out variations like Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur (rich, red and tart) or Bols Dry Orange containing rum. Tuaca, an Italian liqueur rich Left: A few of the high-quality options drinkers now have to upgrade their Margaritas, Harvey Wallbangers and Sidecars.

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“FOR THE LIFE OF ME, I CAN’T SEE WHY ANY BAR USES ANYTHING BUT PURE FRESH LEMON OR ORANGE JUICE.” —VICTOR “TRADER VIC” BERGERON, 1948 in vanilla and orange, has made an unlikely resurgence at Arizona bars, according to a spokesperson. In spirits, orange-flavored vodkas dance on bars in Miami and Vegas, adding a sweet-tart component to nightclub drinks. Last fall, Stolichnaya introduced a limited edition Stoli Ohranj featuring the Playboy bunny logo to “celebrate our brand relationship” with Playboy founder Hugh Hefner. Seagram’s, meanwhile, launched an Orange Twisted Gin that ratchets up the orange peel most London Dry Gins already include in their distillations. Most intriguing on the premium end is Compass Box Whisky’s recently re-launched Orangerie, a lightly infused whisky out of Scotland, featuring fresh orange zest “actually zested for us by little old ladies in Bath,” according to Compass Box president John Glaser. The 10+-year blend of grain and malt whiskies undergoes three infusions: cassia bark, clove and orange zest, the result being a mild, well-balanced sipping Scotch sure to infuriate purists and intrigue newcomers. When it comes to cocktails, the rediscovery of classics like the Blood and Sand (OJ, sweet vermouth, scotch, cherry liqueur) and a variety of upgraded and refined Tiki drinks are putting oranges back on the bar in a big way. “The juice, flesh and zest can all be used in making both sweet and savory dishes and drinks,” says restaurateur Todd English. “Oranges specifically are great acid enhancers in salads, fish and meat dishes. They also pair beautifully with flavors such as vanilla and chocolate in desserts and cocktails.” At English’s Food Hall in New York’s Plaza Hotel, diners can sip on a Food Hall Old Fashioned (Hennessy, Aperol and St. Germain, muddled oranges and freshsqueezed orange juice). Adding oranges to booze is nothing new, of course, according to spirits historian and Esquire drinks columnist David Wondrich in his latest book, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl (2010 Perigee Trade). Among the fashionable people drinking alcoholic punch in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, limes were decidedly unfashionable (in part due to their association with sailors and the rough-and-tumble British Royal Navy), while lemons and oranges were “in.” Oranges were, at first, used when lemons weren’t available, “but eventually there arose a faction of tipplers who made

their Punch with oranges alone,” Wondrich writes in a chapter dedicated to Orange Punch. Kimberly Patton-Bragg, a New Orleans bartender and an On the Rocks semi-finalist, agrees: “Fresh orange juice can bring a softness, acidity and mouthfeel other citrus can’t,” she says. But not everyone is sold on contemplating the Navel. Momofuku mogul David Chang says he’s focused on exploring the savory rather than the sweet side of citrus. “Not that we don’t love oranges,” he assures, “but on the culinary side we like yuzu, Kefir limes, and similar Asian citrus.”

Orange Punch Adapted from Jerry Thomas’ Bordeaux Wine and Liquor Dealer’s Guide, 1858. Reprinted in Punch (David Wondrich 2010) and reprinted here with the author’s permission. Serves 16. The juice of 3 to 4 oranges (Navel for sweetness or Seville for complexity) The peel of 1 or 2 oranges 3/ 4 lb. of sugar 3 1/2 pints boiling water 1/ 2 pint Porter 3/ 4 to 1 pint each dark rum and brandy Make an oleo-saccarum by infusing/marinating peels and sugar for a half hour, add juice, then strain into a punch bowl. Add boiling water, 1/2 pint Porter (beer) and 3/4 to 1 pint each of dark rum and brandy. Add more warm water and sugar as desired for proper strength and sweetness.

Earl Grey Garden by Kimberly Patton-Bragg, Clever, New Orleans 2 oz. Ketel One Orange vodka 1 oz. Earl Grey simple syrup 1/ 2 fresh lemon 1/ 2 fresh orange 1 Thyme sprig Club soda To make the simple syrup, combine 1 cup hot tea with 1 cup sugar, stir until dissolved and cool. Cut lemon and orange halves into quarters and muddle with Earl Grey syrup in a mixing glass. Add vodka and ice. Shake and strain into a tall glass. Top with club soda, and garnish with thyme.

ADVICE

Diamond Buying Tips BY ANNA CLEVELAND

What are the most important aspects when choosing wedding and engagement rings? The first consideration is the coupleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s budget. Then the customer is informed about what to look for in a diamond, namely the 4 Cs: cut, carat, color and clarity. They should also make sure that the diamond they are considering carries a laboratory certification.

How does Traditional Jewelers assist couples in picking their rings? Once the budget is established and financing options are discussed, the couple will decide on a diamond cut and ring style. They can choose from one of our fabulous diamond designer lines, or design their very own custom ring. Often couples have very specific ideas, which can be integrated into a fine design generated by our on-site Master Goldsmith, who upon the clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; approval of a submitted design wil custom manufacture the piece to exact specifications.

What trends do you see in the industry right now? There is a continued trend toward the purchase of diamond jewelry, an increase in clients requesting diamond re-mounts and re-designs, and also many requests for diamond upgrades to a larger carat weight. There have also been increased requests for bridesmaids and groomsmen gift options. The trend here remains the gifting of pearls for the ladies (either stud earrings or a pearl string bracelet) and watches, pens and money clips for the gentlemen.

How do you make the process as seamless as possible? We pride ourselves on outstanding customer service, and in order to achieve that, the client's wishes must be carefully listened to and met, and our sales professionals ensure that the client understands all available options. Once that has been established, and the client is happy with his or her selection, they are presented with a Certificate of Sale. This Certificate of Sale, along with the proper GIA certification, accompanies the purchase at no charge and equips the client with detailed documentation to adequately insure the item. Clients are always contacted after a purchase to ensure that they are happy with their decision, and are invited to visit us for free cleanings, polishing or sizing of their purchase, if needed.

What makes your business unique in the industry? Traditional Jewelers is an established family business, servicing the local community for over 30 years. As an authorized dealer for the world's top watch and jewelry designer brands, we also offer an in-house, full service jewelery workshop, an extensive diamond inventory and a commitment to excellence. Traditional Jewelers is honored and grateful to have enjoyed the patronage of the local community for all these years and in an effort to give back, is diligent in lending its philanthropic support to over 100 local charities and educational institutions. As our logo states, we are committed to 'Exceeding Expectations' at all times.

TRAVEL

Into Africa IN ZAMBIA, SPOTTING WILDLIFE IS A WALK IN THE PARK. BY CAROLINA BOLADO HALE

PHOTOS NATHAN HALE

s we glided silently on the Zambezi River, we soaked in the stillness of the moment. To our right was Zimbabwe; to our left, Zambia. Above, the vast African sky enveloped us in its limitless supply of blue. Then we saw the hippos. Our reverie was broken by the creatures, who bobbed slowly up and down and grunted their displeasure at our having trespassed in their corner of the Zambezi. Our path ahead—and behind—was blocked by two pods of the roly poly beasts, among the deadliest in Africa. The promise of getting close to wildlife on a canoe trip was part of what had drawn us to Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. But this was, perhaps, a bit too close. We gave them as wide a berth as possible. After several minutes, our guide, who was well versed in hippopotamus habits, dipped his oar into the water. “Let’s go. Quickly now,” he said, calmly but firmly. It was one of the many reminders we had while on safari that despite the gourmet food, plush beds and clawfoot bathtubs, we were very much in the wild, in the home of often unpredictable animals engaged in a daily life-and-death struggle. It’s easy to forget while sipping afternoon tea and watching the river float lazily by, until an elephant lumbers into camp searching for a snack. Being able to get deep into the bush was part of the allure of Lower

Zambezi National Park, a 4,000-square kilometer piece of riverfront land about a half-hour’s flight south of Lusaka. Though Zambia isn’t at the top of most people’s safari lists, it should be. Zambia’s guides are renowned beyond the country’s borders, and better park management and increased tourism revenue have helped to greatly reduce poaching. o roads lead to the park, so visitors must come via boat or prop plane; the latter lands on one of three red-dirt airstrips inside the park that often have to be cleared of zebras and warthogs. Formerly a private game reserve for Zambian ex-President Kenneth Kaunda, the park is now home to just six small camps, which means visitors are more likely to see resident wildlife as opposed to safari truck convoys. And there’s plenty of wildlife to see. Despite the park’s small size, it boasts most of the big game that bring people to Africa, plus more than 300 different bird species. After the rainy season has passed and the watering holes have dried up, the animals all come to drink at the river, which means those six riverfront camps are perfectly positioned for wildlife viewing. My husband and I split our visit there between Chiawa Camp, the first one established after the national park’s creation in 1983, and Old Mondoro, a more rustic and intimate camp a 45-minute boat ride downstream. The park has distinct regions, and the two camps are situated in completely different terrain. Dense shrubs, behind which lions hide while eyeing their prey, characterize the area around Chiawa, while large acacia trees with low-hanging, thick branches—perfect leopard perches—dominate the terrain downstream. We were up before the sun each day (the animals don’t sleep in, so we couldn’t either) to explore the area by safari truck, boat, canoe or even on foot. Zambia is, after all, the

Dr. Livingstone, I Presume No visit to Zambia is complete without a stop in Livingstone, next door to Victoria Falls. The local name for the falls, Mosi oa Tunya, means “the smoke that thunders.” When water levels are high, the towering clouds of mist can be seen clearly from downtown Livingstone, six miles away. The falls are at their mightiest in May and June, making the viewing experience a very wet one. The flow slows to a comparative trickle by the end of the year, which means each individual waterfall is clearly visible, and activities like whitewater rafting or taking a dip in the Devil’s Swimming Pool (literally inches from where the water plummets 360 feet down) are available. The Royal Livingstone Hotel, situated on the banks of the Zambezi River just upstream from the falls, offers luxurious rooms, and wildlife viewing right from your window—giraffes and zebras freely roam the grounds of the hotel. Rates start at $653 for double occupancy, including breakfast and national park fees.

Inside the canvas tent at Chiawa Camp

birthplace of the walking safari. Listening to bird calls and examining termite mounds, we saw the bush in a way that we never could have in a noisy safari vehicle. Every day brought a new adventure, whether it was hooking tigerfish in the river or finding lion cubs playing in the tall grass. And each evening, we paused to engage in another safari ritual: the sundowner. No matter what we were doing at the time, as soon as the sun began to sink below the horizon, we would stop, prepare drinks and watch the sky turn various shades of orange, pink and purple as we discussed the lasting memories we’d just made. Lower Zambezi National Park is open from mid-April until mid-November. Prices for Chiawa Camp range from $595 to $895 per person per day, depending on the time of year. Old Mondoro’s rates begin at approximately $600 per person per day. Rates include transportation within the park, all activities, food and drinks.

ART

Man’s Best Friend In The Spotlight Animated Dogs Come to Life Paul Fierlinger’s parents were caught up in an international life of Czech politics, diplomacy and intrigue. They had little time for or interest in their young child. When they were called back to Czechoslovakia from the States, they left Paul with an American foster family they’d found through a newspaper ad. To cope with this benign neglect, Paul found solace in the company of loveable dogs. At the tender age of 10, due to a regime change in Czechoslovakia, Paul was abruptly yanked from the American home he’d come to call his own and sent off to an elite boarding school in Prague (future playwright and president Vacel Havel and film director Milos Forman were his schoolmates). Miserable, homesick for America, and unable to speak the language, Paul expressed himself through drawing. It turned out he had quite a talent. Art school followed, coupled with an intense desire to return to the U.S. (no mean feat during the Communist era).

Eventually, using his artistic talent to forge documents, Fierlinger escaped to America. Over time, as his acclaim as an animator grew, Paul and his wife Sandra, a fine arts painter, began to create animated films together. Shown on PBS and at prestigious film festivals such as Sundance and the Toronto Film Festival, their work received numerous Peabody Awards, an Oscar nomination for Best Animated Short, and several other major film festival awards. Paul’s lifelong love of dogs informed many of these projects. Some favorites include the award-winning films Still Life with Animated Dogs, starring dogs Paul had come to love over his lifetime, and Drawn From Memory, an autobiographical film featuring the canine companions that helped him survive those unhappy years in Czechoslovakia. In their latest feature from New Yorker Films, My Dog Tulip (based on Above: Painter Juan Torcoletti used his love of dogs to turn his life around by painting their portraits.

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, FROM THE EARLIEST CAVE PAINTINGS TO CONTEMPORARY CANVASES, ARTISTS HAVE BEEN INSPIRED BY DOGS. TODAY, THESE ARTISTS BRING A UNIQUE VISION TO THEIR WORK. BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

British author J.R. Ackerley’s book), an animated German Shepherd gets top billing alongside the voices of Christopher Plummer, Lynn Redgrave and Isabella Rossellini.

Through a Photographer’s Lens Award-wining photographer Rosanne Olson is mostly known for her stunning portraits of people. But as she photographed her Knowing Portraits clients, she noticed that their pets were intrigued by the process, often hovering at the edge of the proceedings. Olson became intrigued with them in return and came up with the concept of photographing dogs in the painterly style of the Old Masters. Her regal dog portraits à la Thomas Gainsborough and John Singer Sargent look as if lit by the natural light of a window. “When photographing dogs—and children—I am very patient,” explains Olson. “Sometimes it works quickly and sometimes it takes a while—there’s no forcing anything. Animals (and kids) are so honest. They don’t know how to ‘fake it;’ that’s something we learn as we grow up.

dressed in black leather with two black dogs, a Rottweiler and a German Shepherd. In a stroke of bad luck, the Rottweiler bit me so badly that I had to go to the hospital for stitches. “I wanted to sue the lady, but felt sorry for the dogs. Also, because I was here illegally, I feared being sent back to South America. I was happy and in love with New York City, fully determined to fulfill my American dream. “At first, to ‘heal’ myself from the frightening experience with that Rottweiler, I painted dogs with ferocious teeth, wild dogs and all black ones. I started selling my paintings on the street, at the corner of Prince and Greene. Luckily, many sales followed. “I had famous clients such as Giorgio Armani and many artists. Also, neighborhood residents and tourists bought my work. But, finally, I was arrested for selling on the street and was almost deported. However, fortune smiled and I got my paintings back—and my freedom—as well as my papers and a green card. So, I decided to change my life and stop selling my work on the street. I started doing dog portraits on request. “First, I’d meet the dogs and their owners (the clients), do sketches,

HAVE A HEART

Other ways to help: Visit 4pawsforability.org, which provides service dogs to people with disabilities; www.humanesociety.org, the nation’s largest animal protection organization; or www.aspca.org, which rescues and shelters abused and neglected animals. Left: Esther the Great Dane, as photographed by Rosanne Olson, has the regal look of Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy. Top Right: Art imitates life. In the award-winning Still Life with Animated Dogs, Paul Fierlinger gets his dog Spinnaker to do a barking “voice over.” Bottom Right: In the film, Paul Fierlinger also goes sailing with Spinnaker. “I simply try to make photographing them an enjoyable experience so that the expressions I get reflect the genuine feelings of the subject.” Yes, you can almost see the dogs smiling.

Canine Creatures on Canvas Argentine painter Juan Torcoletti’s inspiration for painting dogs is best told in his own words: “My history painting dogs was born in the streets of New York. I had just moved to the city in 1993 and found a place in Soho. One morning, like any other, I went for coffee at Dean & Deluca on Prince Street. I passed a lady

make drawings and take photos. Afterwards, I’d work on the paintings in my studio (by then, I’d moved to an old storage building in Tribeca with a hotplate and a bathroom down the hall). That’s where I lived until I became disillusioned with my beloved America. And, when I started painting ferocious dogs again, I knew it was time to move back to Buenos Aires.” Since 2004, Juan Torcoletti and his amazing dog portraits have been represented by boltax.gallery on Shelter Island, New York. These very different portraits by this group of talented artists pay tribute to the long relationship people have had with dogs—not only as hunters, guardians and guides, but as loving companions.

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Animator Paul Fierlinger and Mutts cartoonist Patrick McDonnell teamed up to create commercials for The Shelter Pet Project (www.theshelterpetproject.org) to encourage people to adopt a pet.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2011