Traditional Jewelers

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2016

RUNWAY INSPIRATION A GOLDEN AGE OF JEWELRY DIAMONDS DO GOOD

BEYOND BRILLIANT F A S H I O N

I S L A N D ,

N E W P O R T

B E A C H ,

C A

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE

rolex

oyster perpetual and day-date are

速

trademarks.

The new A DAY BY THE SEA collection is exclusively available at Traditional Jewelers in Newport Beach • www.wellendorff.com

CONTENTS

Spring/Summer 2016

58 14 Welcome Letter 18 Get Social

53

20 Behind the Scenes 22 Events 24 Paved in Jewels 26 From the Runways 32 Blogger Picks 34 Golden Age 40 Patek Philippe 42 Traditional Jewelers Watch Report 44 The Rolex Central Park Horse Show 45 Breitling Jet Team Returns to the Skies 46 Shinola 48 Kwiat 50 Wellendorff 52 Modern Mod 54 Weddings: Bridal Bliss 56 A Diamonds Do Good Story

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58 Book Review: Gold Struck

by Stephen Webster 60 Sonoma on My Mind 62 Perfect Gems 64 Statement Earrings

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2016

ON THE COVER

RUNWAY INSPIRATION A GOLDEN AGE OF JEWELRY DIAMONDS DO GOOD

28

BEYOND BRILLIANT F A S H I O N

I S L A N D ,

N E W P O R T

B E A C H ,

C A

Model Katarina Filipovic (Elite Miami) in Etho Maria Royal Blue collection bracelets and Sharp collection rings and earrings.

Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Makeup and hair by Michelle Ortega. Makeup assistance by Ariel Palma. Photo assistance and videography by Daniil Mironenko.

速ROBERTOCOIN

POIS MOI COLLECTION

TRADITIONALJEWELERS.COM NEWPORT BEACH FASHION ISLAND 817 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE, NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92660 PHONE (949) 721-9010 HYDE PARK DENVER HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 333-4446 HYDE PARK PHOENIX HYDE PARK BILTMORE FASHION PARK 2502 E. CAMELBACK ROAD, PHOENIX, AZ 85016 PHONE (602) 667-3541 OMEGA BOUTIQUE AT HYDE PARK — DENVER CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 331-7749 BREITLING PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 303-331-7015 ROBERTO COIN PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 303-331-7016 ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK — LAS VEGAS THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS 3500 LAS VEGAS BLVD SOUTH, LAS VEGAS, NV 89109 PHONE (702) 794-3541 MICHAEL POLLAK CEO SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT DAMON GROSS COO BRENT SEYLER SENIOR SALES MANAGER SUSI LEXIER-ALTMAN HYDE PARK DENVER GENERAL MANAGER NICK VEGA HYDE PARK PHOENIX GENERAL MANAGER SANDI PERRY ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK LAS VEGAS GENERAL MANAGER JOHN BURBA OMEGA PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK MANAGER SEAN SENKBEIL BREITLING/ROBERTO COIN PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK ASSISTANT MANAGER JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS JOHN FRASCONE

MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES

DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2016. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 14, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

THANKFUL An Unexpected 40-Year Journey I have been very lucky throughout my life: blessed with an amazing family, good health, exceptional friends and colleagues, and a company that has continued to grow for 40 years. The journey began in 1973, during the spring of my junior year at the University of Denver. As fate would have it, a classmate introduced me to a couple of guys from Queens, New York, who were in the jewelry wholesale business specializing in the newly emerging turquoise and American Indian jewelry craze. Sometimes in life, it’s what you don’t know that can lead to endless possibilities.

And so it began. Full of exuberance, naivety and youthful confidence, I sat on the front lawn of the general classroom building and displayed my goods. While much has radically changed over the years, so much has remained the same. Jewelry, precious gems and fine timepieces are acquired for celebrations, achievements, self-adornments, investments and legacies. While today’s consumer can choose to engage and shop with us in a wide variety of ways, at the end of the day, the foundation of a shopping experience is a relationship. Extraordinary customer service and building trust are key.

We continue to seek highly curated collections based on quality, design and craftsmanship. Our philosophy has always been based on taste and value. We want to nurture our clients through their own journeys. Whether providing a $100 sterling silver pendant or a $1,000,000 rare colored diamond, your patronage on your individual journey is never taken for granted.

This year we celebrate 40 years of what started so simply on the lawn of the University of Denver, but has become so much more. We would not be here today celebrating this important milestone if it weren’t for the communities we serve in Denver, Phoenix, Las Vegas and Newport Beach. While giving back has always been one of our core values, this year, in celebration, we are committing to giving back in an even bigger way with a program we are calling 40 Acts of Kindness. We look forward to sharing these acts with you throughout the year, and to seeing you soon.

Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak CEO, Traditional Jewelers and Hyde Park Jewelers mpollak@traditionaljewelers.com

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.

Inside ACCENT

OUR COVER SHOOT Behind the scenes of our Miami shoot

GLOW GETTER Makeup artist Michelle Ortega created an irredescent golden glow for our cover look using Artist Couture highlighter powder in Gold Digger and Illuminati.

GOLDEN ELEGANCE Creative artist Edwin Santa took inspiration from the spring 2016 runways, featuring romantic, eye-catching details to create a style all his own. Gold embellished bodices were designed for model Katarina, and custom gold headpieces were added to complement the looks.

ROBERTO COIN’s new Princess collection in 18K gold and diamonds was an on-set favorite.

ARTS HUB Shooting took place at a studio in the Wynwood Arts District of Miami, home to over 70 art galleries, retail stores, antiques shops, eclectic bars and one of the largest open-air street-art installations in the world.

w ERS T CATCH ces in yello THE LIGH ing statement pie d colored n nn From stu rkling diamonds a shoot was a e gold to sp the jewelry for th andising team h s, gemstone lected by our merc off on set. h se n e lly rk e fu F re r ca ife d by Jenn and style

One of the items hand-selected for the shoot was this ETHO MARIA Royal Blue collection bracelet, the Couture Las Vegas Show Design Award Winner for Best in Colored Gemstones.

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Photography and creative by EDWIN SANTA Model KATARINA FILIPOVIC (ELITE MIAMI) Styling by JENNIFER FERKENHOFF Makeup and hair by MICHELLE ORTEGA Makeup assistance by ARIEL PALMA Photo assistance and videography by DANIIL MIRONENKO

EVENTS

Bob O’Connell and Paula Stefany Joseph White Vandana DeBoeck, Ryan Crosley and Nora Novak

RARE VINTAGE JEWERLY EVENT FEATURING FRED LEIGHTON

A vintage sapphire brooch

NOVEMBER 2015

Traditional Jewelers held a special event highlighting our extraordinary collection of vintage and estate jewelry and the introduction of our new director of sales, Joseph White.

With over 30 years of experience in the high-end jewelry industry, White is a true expert in sourcing rare, vintage and one-of-a-kind items for high-net worth clients.

Many of the pieces showcased at the event were from the Fred Leighton collection, which includes both stunning vintage and new signature creations. Clients and invited guests enjoyed hearing White’s expertise when discussing amazing Art Deco diamond pieces from the 1920s, as he explained how the diamond cutters’ skills and aesthetics changed significantly during the period.

With the continuously evolving vintage selection at Traditional Jewelers, customers have the opportunity to view elegant jewelry from many different eras. Discover these unique vintage and estate pieces, including the Fred Leighton Collection, at our Newport Beach location.

Allison Kincheloe and Garrette Calacci with Joseph White

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS AND PHILLIPS HOUSE HOST CHOC GLASS SLIPPER GUILD LUNCHEON Last Fall, Traditional Jewelers hosted the CHOC Children’s Foundation Glass Slipper Guild for a private event with Phillips House fine jewelry.

Miami-based Phillips House’s jewelry has graced the pages of nearly every magazine of note, has been embraced by celebrities and the style savvy, and counts the First Lady among its devotees. Held at Fig & Olive Restaurant at Fashion Island, the ladies of the Glass Slipper Guild enjoyed an elegant lunch of Italian fare while shopping from a private collection of Phillips House jewelry. The Glass Slipper Guild is one of 11 guilds that support CHOC Children’s.

Morgan Stern, Jenny Williams and Kara Hansen

Anna-Marie Claassen, Myrna Malki and Aline Blumetti

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Phillips House Infinity Love Always bracelet

Andrea McCardle and Maggie Horne

SPECIAL THANKS TO COAST MAGAZINE, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANN CHATILLON

OCTOBER 2015

Fletcher Jones Introduces The New Performance Studio.

Now Open! Our Best Selection Ever! ®

S63 AMG® Coupe

2013 SL550 ROADSTER

Experience The Fletcher Jones Difference.

FLETCHER JONES MOTORCARS N E W P O R T

B E A C H

330 0 J amb o r e e Road • w w w. f j m e r c e d e s . c o m

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scene

An inside look at dressing RED CARPET stars.

PAVED IN

JEWELS T

BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

o use a sports analogy, awards season is the playoffs of the red carpet. Generally beginning with the Gotham Awards in November and picking up speed at January’s Golden Globes, awards season is a special kind of sprint, typically featuring the same competitors appearing at multiple ceremonies until the championship: the Oscars. Finding out what the stars are wearing, from gowns to hairstyles to, of course, the bling, is often more anticipated than finding out who wins.

The impact of stars’ jewelry choices should not be underestimated; the high-voltage attention on what celebrities wear can enhance a jewelry designer’s name recognition—and their bottom line. It can also catapult an unknown onto the radar. Actresses may make the final result appear effortless, but the task of putting together a red carpet look is anything but. It takes creativity, flexibility, talent, hard work, nerve, gratitude, and most

important, good relationships with the right people.

The tradition of loaning jewelry pieces to celebrities for awards show red carpets began in 1943, when Harry Winston decorated Jennifer Jones at that year’s Academy Awards. Today, as soon as the nominations are announced, a complex system of stylists, celebrity public relations reps, and fashion and jewelry designers kicks into gear. Some actresses let their stylists guide them, while others spearhead the efforts themselves. Still others have contracts with jewelry houses precluding them from wearing anything else. Pieces can be custom designed or pulled from existing archives and collections.

Designers like Roberto Coin, known for his use of bold materials including gold and diamonds, are red carpet favorites. “I love working with celebrities,” says Coin, “as they usually know what they want. When I am asked to create from a drawing, I translate the look into

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TIME TO SHINE Left: Roberto Coin Unique diamond collar necklace.

Right: Roberto Coin shares a laugh with The Danish Girl’s Alicia Vikander.

my language—the language of gold.” The most frequent request is to give the celebrity something that makes them feel unique. “I always add my personal interpretation. The best moments are those in which a woman is surprised and pleased at a result that was not expected.”

The most sought-after stylists, whose talents are displayed in fashion editorials and red carpet work, develop a wealth of resources to pull from and acquire the most influential clientele. The celebritystylist relationship has proven to be a game changer.

No one knows this better than Ginnina D’Orazio, president and founder of the Beverly Hills based D’Orazio & Associates. A 4,000-square-foot showroom with maximum security that represents over 20 jewelry houses, D’Orazio insists it is the first and the best of its kind. “We do it right and we don’t cut corners,” she explains. The showroom was established when D’Orazio, a certified gemologist, saw a need for a red carpet and fine jewelry-focused showroom that would go “above and beyond PR.” When asked whether some celebrities are paid to wear certain designers and brands, D’Orazio replies, “None of [our] brands pay. We don’t even gift.” Relationships and the best selection are what drives D’Orazio’s business. She counts A-listers like Jennifer Lawrence, Rihanna, Taylor Swift, Amal Clooney and Lady Gaga among her clients.

And Sofia Vergara popped in—no stylist needed—to pull jewelry the week before her wedding to Joe Manganiello.

“Celebrities’ styles are followed by many women,” adds Roberto Coin.

“When a celebrity wears a piece, the same piece is often immediately requested [by customers].” Coin has taken his awards show involvement one step further, as a sponsor of The Hollywood Reporter’s Nominees Night party in Beverly Hills, one of the most anticipated evenings of the season. It’s an opportunity for Coin to mingle with Oscar hopefuls and show off his designs in lavish displays. This year’s event attracted Alicia Vikander, Sylvester Stallone and Jennifer Jason Leigh, who were among the guests treated to a performance by Grammy- and Oscarwinner Sam Smith. So far the extra exposure has paid off: Meghan Trainor, Elisabeth Rohm and Laverne Cox have all been spotted in Roberto Coin at recent high-profile events.

Forevermark is another red carpet favorite. “From the start, we have been seeking celebrity relationships and red carpet placements,” a

“

company spokesperson reveals. Its pursuit was met with immediate success. “Forevermark launched internationally in 2008, with Nicole Kidman wearing Forevermark at that year’s Academy Awards.” Other highlights include Michelle Obama in Forevermark

by Kimberly McDonald diamond bangles at the 2013 Inaugural Ball, and Kate Hudson at last year’s Golden Globe awards in Forevermark earrings designed in collaboration with Slane. The earrings featured Forevermark “exceptional” diamonds totaling over 22 carats.

Forevermark also notes that its ear cuffs—a new style that has exploded over the past year—have been embraced by Chloe Grace Moretz and Olivia Wilde. While the brand enjoys creating jewelry specifically to be worn on the red carpet, celebrity dressing is not without its challenges. One of the biggest: “the last minute dress change!” says the spokesperson. “Luckily, Forevermark diamonds are featured in a wide range of jewelry styles, so we can

Go-to choices among celebrities and stylists include large diamond studs, cocktail rings and diamond line bracelets; stacking them with diamond bangles is a recent trend.

’’

BRING ON THE BLING Chloe Grace Moretz and Kate Hudson in Forevermark.

Melissa Etheridge in Roberto Coin.

accommodate a request pretty seamlessly.” The payoff for this flexibility is seeing Forevermark diamonds sparkling on all the biggest awards show red carpets.

One of Coin’s most memorable payoff moments came in 2007, when he worked with Melissa Etheridge as she was coming through her battle with cancer. Nominated for a Best Song Oscar, “she was looking for something very minimalist,” says Coin. “We gave her one of our Haute Couture rings that was as unique and as spectacular as Melissa. She won her only Oscar that year, and we are part of her incredible moment.”

It’s this type of moment fans are sure to remember when shopping for their next statement splurge.

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from the

RUNWAYS

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FINE LINES

3 4 6 5 1.

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Traditional Jewelers Collection 14K rose gold and diamond vertical bar necklace Traditional Jewelers Collection 14K white gold and diamond vertical bar necklace Phillips House Apogee Collection 14K rose gold and diamond cage ring Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection 18K white gold baguette diamond linear drop earrings Traditional Jewelers Collection 18K white and rose gold five-row bracelet Traditional Jewelers Collection 14K rose gold and diamond open-angle ring

FROM TOP: GIORGIO ARMANI, MISSONI, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, TOD’S. RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE.

from the

RUNWAYS

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MIRROR MIRROR

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Ippolita Glamazon Collection sterling silver and diamond disc pendant Yoko London Duet Collection 18K white gold freshwater pearl double-stud earrings Phillips House Infinity Love Always Collection 14K rose gold and diamond wide bangle Traditional Jewelers Collection 18K yellow gold oval ring Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection 18K rose gold and brown diamond ring

FROM TOP: ANTHONY VACCARELLO, BALMAIN, ISABEL MARANT, LOEWE, LOEWE. RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE.

SWITZERLAND SET THE STANDARD. DETROIT JUST RAISED THE BAR.

THE RUNWELL FE ATURING A BLUE DIAL WITH DATE INDICATOR IN A STAINLES S-STEEL CASE, DE TROIT-BUILT ARGONITE 705 QUART Z MOVEMENT AND AMERICAN-TANNED BROWN LE ATHER STR AP. BUILT TO L AST A LIFE TIME OR LONGER UNDER THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE SHINOL A GUAR ANTEE. E XCLUSIVELY AVAIL ABLE AT FINE WATCH AND JEWELRY RETAILERS.

from the

RUNWAYS

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RUFFLES & ROMANCE

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Kwiat Diamond Strings Collection 18K white gold and diamond necklace Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection 18K white gold and diamond large scroll ring Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection 18K yellow gold and diamond open-work earrings Kwiat Vintage Collection 18K white gold and double rose-cut diamond vintage ring Roberto Coin Princess Collection 18K yellow gold and diamond wide bracelet

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FROM TOP: OSCAR DE LA RENTA, GUCCI, JASON WU, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO. RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE.

style

BLOGGER PICKS Style is in the details. Discover the perfect accessories to complete your look, chosen by bloggers we love.

Leah Behr of @eatpraywearlove

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7

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1. Stephen Webster Lady Stardust 18K Rose Gold Diamond & Pink Opal Drop Earrings 2. Stephen Webster Lady Stardust 18K Rose Gold Diamond & Pink Opal Ring 3. Roberto Coin Barocco 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Wide Ring 4. Roberto Coin Barocco 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Hoop Earrings 5. Armenta Old World 18K Yellow Gold & Sterling Silver Diamond Link Bracelet 6. Phillips House Apogee 14K Yellow Gold & Black Diamond Cage Drop Earrings 7. Pesavento DNA Shine Ruthenium Sterling Silver Multi-Strand Necklace

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LEAH BEHR IMAGE BY BRANDON BEHR. RANTI ONAYEMI BLANCHARD IMAGE BY BEN BLANCHARD. LACEY SPRUCE IMAGE BY BRANDON HILL.

Mixed metals and industrial pieces are trending for spring 2016.

And, with Rose Quartz being one of Pantone's colors of the year, you can expect to see a lot of this stone popping in everything from clothing to accessories, like in this stunning Stephen Webster collection. Keep an eye out for statement earrings and collar necklaces, too.”

– LEAH BEHR

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Ranti Onayemi Blanchard of @rantiinreview

“

2

I like my jewelry same

as I do my fashion: fun, clean, eclectic, but impactful. I love

1

dainty pieces because they're quite playful and easily layered. And I, of course,

appreciate statement jewelry

4

for its bold impression and lasting image.”

– RANTI ONAYEMI BLANCHARD 5 1. A. Link Flex Forte 18K White & Rose Gold Diamond Bracelets 2. Phillips House Infinity 14K Yellow Gold & Diamond Chain Ring 3. Adolfo Courrier I-POP 18K Rose Gold & Daimond Ring Stack 4. Tag Heuer Carrera 39MM Stainless Steel & Rose Gold Watch 5. Adolfo Courrier Winter 18K White & Yellow Gold Ceramic Ring Stack

Lacey Spruce of @myboringcloset

“

2

When it comes to

jewelry, I tend to gravitate

1

toward unexpected pieces that 3

make a statement. Mixed metals, pearls, Art Deco styles and bold colors are some of my current favorites.”

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– LACEY SPRUCE

5 4

1. Marco Bicego Lunaria 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Hand-Engraved Necklace 2. Penny Preville Deco 18K White Gold & Diamond Double Triangle Ring 3. Yoko London Blue Rose 18K Rose Gold Diamond & Tahitian Pearl Cuff Ring 4. Stephen Webster Magnipheasant Pavé Multi-Bracelet 5. Hyde Park Reserve 18K Yellow Gold & Cognac Diamond Fan Earrings 6. Hyde Park Reserve 18K White Gold & Marquise Diamond Band

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GOLDEN AGE Discover an era in which shining gold, lustrous pearls and statement pieces reign supreme.

Photography and creative by Edwin Santa

SHINING ARMOUR

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection earrings, rings, cuff and bracelets.

FLOWER CHILD

Roberto Coin Princess Flower Collection diamond earrings, necklace and rings.

PEARL PERFECTION

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection pearl necklace and diamond-inlay pearl bracelets and rings; Yoko London earrings, rings and bracelet from the Pendulum, Blue Rose and Novus Collections.

IN BLOOM

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection diamond floral set.

GLITTERING GOLD

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection diamond earrings and bracelets Model Katarina Filipovic at Elite Miami. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff.

Makeup and hair by Michelle Ortega. Makeup assistance by Ariel Palma.

Photo assistance by Daniil Mironenko.

watchmaking

Generation A new horology

program ensures the future at PATEK PHILIPPE.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

A

NEXT

ccording to Patek Philippe U.S. president Larry Pettinelli, there is watchmaking, and then there’s Patek watchmaking. “A few years ago, we realized we were behind the eight-ball finding qualified watchmakers, since hiring from other brands is not always ideal. So we founded a school in NYC that teaches watchmaking the Patek way.”

Pettinelli acknowledges that finding the right students is not easy. “Even very smart kids often lack the concentration and/or the mental stability to do this kind of work. Think about it: these kids grew up clicking from one social media site to the next; they think in two-second blips. Watchmaking, on the other hand, is a slow, painstaking process that requires infinite patience. The first time you fix a watch, it might not work so you need to begin all over again.”

Starting with 400 applicants, Patek eventually brought in four groups of 20 students who they thought had the appropriate levels of skill and passion (passion being every bit as important as skill). They went through intensive interviews, dexterity tests, a two- to three-hour written test (that Pettinelli describes as “ridiculously hard, i.e. finding areas of bizarre

shapes with multiple arcs and angles”), logic tests and more. (A final exam takes place at corporate headquarters in Geneva.)

“Finalists also have to sit at a bench and, using a loop and tiny tools, take a watch completely apart and put it back together,” Pettinelli adds.

Out of 80 finalists, six candidates and one alternate were ultimately chosen. “We found some wonderful people,” Pettinelli confirms. “They were working as musicians, baristas, dock workers, all looking for a life path. We teach them the watch business, what constitutes quality, complicated movements, high-level finishing and more. When they get done with our school, they’re qualified to work anywhere. But their acquired sense of pride in Patek Philippe is the overriding factor.”

And why not? A fourth-generation Stern family business (one of very few not owned by a conglomerate) boasting beautiful Swiss watches with unparalleled investment value (as evidenced at auctions; the Sterns are careful not to manipulate the market by buying back their own pieces), Patek Philippe is luxury watchmaking at its very finest.

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*

1

GPS ATOMIC SOLAR HYBRID*

2

Š2016 CASIO AMERICA, INC.

MTGG1000D-1A 2

*1 As of September 2014, CASIO investigation. *2 Function combining CASIO solar power-generation with location positioning, determined by GPS (Global Positioning System) and time synchronization through reception of terrestrial radio waves.

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS

WatchReport

PATEK PHILIPPE BAUME & MERCIER

ROLEX

For Her JAEGER-LECOULTRE

AUDEMARS PIGUET

PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus 35.2mm stainless steel case, blue opaline dial, stainless steel bracelet, water-resistant to 60 meters ROLEX Datejust, 28mm 18K yellow gold case, diamond bezel, corn blue dial, yellow gold President bracelet, water-resistant to 100 meters BAUME & MERCIER Petite Promesse, 22mm stainless steel case with diamonds, mother-of-pearl dial, orange leather double-wrap strap JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso One Duetto Moon, 40x20mm stainless steel case, silvered and midnight blue dial, stainless steel bracelet, water-resistant to 30 meters

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Quartz, 33mm 18K yellow gold case, silvered Grande Tapisserie dial, yellow gold bracelet, water-resistant to 50 meters

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IWC

A. LANGE & SOHNE

OMEGA

For Him BREITLING

PANERAI

IWC The Big Pilot’s Heritage, 55mm titanium case, black dial, brown calfskin strap, water-resistant to 60 meters OMEGA Globemaster, 39mm 18K Sedna gold case, silvery opaline dial, brown leather strap, water-resistant to 100 meters A. LANGE & SÖHNE Saxonia Moon Phase, 40mm 18K pink gold case, silver dial, brown alligator strap PANERAI Radiomir 1940, 42mm stainless steel case, white dial, brown calf strap, water-resistant to 100 meters BREITLING Exospace B55, 46mm black titanium case, black dial, blue rubber TwinPro strap, water-resistant to 100 meters

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events

Town & The ROLEX CENTRAL PARK HORSE SHOW highlights a passion for excellence, the common denominator that links fine watchmaking and equestrian competition. BY DAVID A. ROSE

F From top: Isabell Werth riding El Santo under the New York skyline; Winner Daniel Bluman receiving his Rolex watch after winning the Rolex Grand Prix; Rolex Testimonee Kent Farrington on Uceko.

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or five days last autumn, New York City’s magnificent Central Park showcased a different kind of horse revelation. Unlike the steadfast but weary steeds that pull tourists through the park in period carriages, the second annual Rolex Central Park Horse Show featured world-class mounts participating in multi-discipline competitions that thrilled all those in attendance.

Wollman Skating Rink was transformed in a matter of days to a top-level equestrian facility thanks to Mark Bellissimo’s International Equestrian Group, in partnership with several New York City organizations. “Here we are overlooking the magnificent New York City skyline,“ said Bellissimo.

“This will become one of the greatest show jumping events in the world in a couple of years, and we are excited to see that happen.”

The event was truly international, with competitors from America, Canada, England, Germany, Ireland, Sweden and Spain. Daniel Bluman, a Colombian now living in Florida, won the Grand Prix with his horse Conconcreto Believe. “I’ve been wanting this since I was very young and I have been close a few times,” said Bluman of receiving his firstever Rolex watch as part of his prize package. “To be able to win today in Central Park was a lot of pressure, but I am very pleased tonight.”

Horsemanship requires a quest for perfection, a goal that Rolex shares with the equestrian sport. Like the world’s most finely bred horses, Rolex timepieces have long been symbols of elegance, precision and prestige.

BREITLING JET TEAM

RETURNS TO THE SKIES IN 2016

B

reitling, the independent Swiss watch brand, is pleased to announce that the Breitling Jet Team will be extending its highly successful North American Tour into 2016. The prestigious aerobatic display team is the first and largest of its kind, comprised of seven pilots flying L-39 C Albatros jets in a sophisticated demonstration of precision and speed, at times reaching speeds of 565 MPH and flying within just a few feet of each other. Their acclaimed 2015 North American Tour took the Jet Team from coast to coast across the United States and Canada—something they will repeat in 2016.

“With the success we enjoyed in 2015, it was an easy decision to bring the Breitling Jet Team back to North America this year,” says Breitling USA president Thierry Prissert. “It was thrilling having them here for their first-ever North American Tour, and the response from American and Canadian audiences has been overwhelming. Their precision, timing and athleticism embodies the spirit of Breitling.”

Breitling established the Jet Team over 13 years ago to celebrate its passion for aviation and share that with fans across the globe. The Breitling Jet Team’s performance mirrors the style, power, precision and elegance of Breitling’s timepieces. The 2015 North American Tour was incredibly well received, with aviation enthusiasts from across North America coming to see the team’s breathtaking performances at nearly 20 air shows in the U.S. and Canada. The team also experienced impressive views of some famous North American landmarks, with iconic flights over the Statue of Liberty, Niagara Falls and Mount Rushmore, among others.

“It was incredible to tour the United States and Canada for the first time last year and we are so happy to be returning in 2016,” Jacques Bothelin, Breitling Jet Team leader, says. “It was a pleasure to return to the International Council of Air Shows annual convention in Las Vegas to announce the 2016 schedule with so many people who were instrumental in 2015’s success.”

BREITLING JET TEAM AMERICAN TOUR 2016 SCHEDULE APRIL 2 – 3 Melbourne Air & Space Show in Melbourne, Florida

APRIL 8 – 10 Sun ‘n Fun Fly-In & International Expo in Lakeland, Florida

MAY 7 – 8: Fort Lauderdale Air Show in Fort Lauderdale, Florida

MAY 14 – 15 McGuire Air Force Base in Burlington County, New Jersey

MAY 28 – 29 Bethpage Air Show at Jones Beach State Park in Jones Beach, New York

JUNE 4 – 5 The Great Tennessee Air Show in Smyrna, Tennessee

JUNE 25 – 26 Warriors Over the Wasatch at Hill Air Force Base in Salt Lake City, Utah

AUGUST 5 – 7 The Intel Oregon International Air Show in Hillsboro, Oregon

AUGUST 12 – 14 The Abbotsford International Air Show in Abbotsford, British Columbia

AUGUST 20 – 21 Thunder Over Michigan in Ypsilanti, Michigan

SEPTEMBER 3 – 5 The Canadian International Air Show in Toronto, Ontario

SEPTEMBER 24 – 25 MCAS Miramar Air Show in Miramar, California

OCTOBER 8 – 9 San Francisco Fleet Week in San Francisco, California

OCTOBER 22 – 23 Surf City USA Air Show in Huntington Beach, California

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profile

FROM DETROIT WITH

LOVE SHINOLA sweeps the country with its American-made style. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

F

ew companies have made a household name for themselves as quickly as Shinola, the Detroit-based maker of watches, leather goods and sports equipment that has become extremely popular since the brand was launched by Bedrock Manufacturing back in 2011.

(The name derives from a once-legendary brand of shoe polish.)

One reason for its spectacular growth is that the company’s devotion to using American parts and labor, including building an enormous factory in Detroit, is evident in everything it sells.

“Shinola was founded on the belief that American industrialism and craftsmanship can be combined to create beautiful, practical and meticulously detailed goods,” says worldrenowned architect David Rockwell, who designed the company’s flagship retail store in New York City.

Now customers will see even more homegrown goods from Shinola than ever before, says creative director Daniel Caudill. “We have begun making our own watch straps in

Detroit, and started making our own dials here as well,” he says. “Eventually, the whole watch will be made completely in the U.S. Our goal is not to assemble watches, but to build them completely here, which will also create long-term sustainability for our employees.”

Speaking of watches, Caudill says he’s excited about new straps that have the same texture as a football, and a new array of colors for both cases and dials, including oxblood, smoky topaz and dark green.

“We’re using classic colors that we think look particularly beautiful, but mixing them in really modern ways,” he notes.

Shinola is also growing its women’s watch business, although Caudill finds both genders often wear timepieces made for the opposite sex.

“We have a nice assortment of dial shapes, but we also see that some of the more fashion-centric guys are wearing smaller watches, even some made for women, while some of the ladies are wearing the larger ones, perhaps bought for their boyfriend or husband, as a fashion statement.”

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In some ways, the company’s biggest innovation is its expansion of leather goods, now that they have hired famed designers Richard Lambertson and John Truex to oversee the line.

“They have really taken our leather goods to a new level of quality,” says Caudill. “The amount of detail they brought to our brand is astounding.”

Shinola’s complete line of small leather goods, bags, and tech items is available for the first time this season. “There’s this one tote bag that I’ve been trying to steal the sample of ever since I saw it. In fact, everyone in Detroit wants it.

It’s simple, clean, and with beautiful details,” he says. “But I will have to buy one like everybody else.”

Shinola is also debuting its newest sport ball (in oxblood), as well as a few outerwear pieces created in conjunction with San Francisco’s Golden Bear. And by the end of 2016, expect a line of audio products as part of a collaboration with singer Jack White.

“Every day, there’s something new and exciting going on here,” says Caudill.

888 . 884 .2424

designers

O

A Diamond

LEGACY

BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

Above: Sheldon, Michele, Steven, Greg, Lowell and Russell Kwiat

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n the list of successful family-owned jewelry houses, Kwiat stands out: for its evolution and New York history, for its diamond expertise, and for the strength of its family legacy. Over four generations and nearly 110 years, Kwiat has become an esteemed global brand.

Founded as a small store on Canal Street in 1907

by Sam Kwiat, a Polish émigré, Kwiat specialized in refinishing older stones to improve their brilliance and resetting them in vintage jewelry. Sam’s son David joined him in 1933 at the age of 17, bringing an artisan’s heart and a vision for growth.

David extended the family business into a designer, manufacturer and high-quality diamond vendor for New York City’s jewelry market focused on working with important pieces, especially bigger diamonds. In the 1950s David relocated the company to 47th Street, becoming a founder of the presentday Diamond District, and expanded into making diamond jewelry for retailers. “Private label really was our business,” says Sam’s great-grandson Greg Kwiat, the company’s CFO. “We cut something like 50 pear-shaped diamonds for Harry Winston,” including a 126-carat rough diamond into Winston’s 50-carat “Teardrop of Africa” in 1965. Despite its industry-insider status and large-diamond cutting expertise, Kwiat was unknown to the public.

Sam’s grandsons Lowell and Sheldon Kwiat, who entered the business in 1973 and 1964 respectively, changed all that. Both started as cutting apprentices and eventually worked their way up to become Kwiat’s co-presidents. By the 1990s, they began promoting the Kwiat name, embarking on a branding campaign that produced impressive results: a flagship Madison Avenue boutique, an “exceptional network of retail partners” and an established presence on the red carpet. In 2015 they re-launched their social network channels and website to provide a broader global brand experience.

Whether in the Kwiat Vintage Collection, its oneof-a-kind statement pieces, or its all-important bridal business, Kwiat’s hallmarks are apparent: open and airy designs that allow the skin to peek through and the light to embrace the stone and create brilliance.

Their latest collections—Kwiat Cobblestone featuring yellow, rose and white gold with natural fancy color diamonds, and Kwiat Madison Avenue, inspired by mid-century sculpture in fine ceramic, gold and diamonds—epitomize exciting design explorations to be worn day to night. “At the heart of our design process,” says Greg, “is the desire to celebrate the beauty of our diamonds and the woman who wears them.

“All of us in the Kwiat family truly enjoy creating diamond jewelry that becomes a central part of people’s lives.” What could be better?

fireandicediamonds.com

collections

BY THE SEA A DAY

WELLENDORF’s

A day by the sea: the words evoke a longing for freedom and open spaces, dreams of sun and the seashore, memories of dancing waves and unforgettable sunsets. These feelings can be expressed in colors: the deep blue of the open sea, the golden flashes of light on the lively water, the red and orange hues of the setting sun. Inspired by the reveries of a day by the sea, Wellendorff has captured these memories of a place of recreation, reflection, and pure joie de vivre in its new collection.

The A Day by the Sea collection presents a completely new design vocabulary for the brand, evident in the octagonal exterior shapes of the Reflections of the Sun and Reflections on the Water rings. The octagon is a symbol of perfection, a wonderful reminder of a perfect day at the seaside. The angular elements of the ring are integrated into a round setting and preserve the playful and captivating turning feature found in all Wellendorff rings. While the classical round inner rings make the pieces comfortable, the outer rings are what make them captivating, thanks to the distinctive geometry of the eight planes arranged in a row. Small engraved squares emphasize the graphic effects of the new ring shape and create a fascinating mosaic effect that changes with every turn, just as the surface of the water changes. Wellendorff’s signature enamel recalls the pale blue-gray of a misty morning, the intense turquoise of deep waters in the blazing midday heat, and the red-orange of a fiery sunset.

The Golden Treasure amulet, another highlight of the collection, features a new setting technique that reveals the goldsmith’s most creative craftsmanship. A precious topaz is embedded in the amulet, in the center of which a diamond appears to float, thanks to a refined setting. To incorporate the classic Wellendorff rope, the design is engraved into the transparent topaz, giving the amulet particular depth: a true golden treasure.

newest offering highlights the beautiful interplay

between sun and water.

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Weight Carat 1.53

ColorE Grade

Grade Clarity VS1

Grade CutExcellent

For over 85 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.

Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.

4Cs.GIA.edu CARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

trends

STATEMENT JEWELRY MUST-HAVES or gemstones on the tip.”

First and foremost, Perez said,

However, if you happen to be a

you need a choker or

hoop girl, Perez pointed to two

collar—“I recommend at least one that covers the

that are in-vogue: very simple, thin

whole neck.” The late Cindy

metal styles or big, colorful, geometric designs.

Edelstein, former president of the Jeweler’s

Once you’ve decided on your perfect neck

Resource Bureau, was also excited about such jeweled neckwear this season, as it harkens back to

piece and earrings this season, it’s best to shop for a

the early 1970s. On her blog, Cindy’s TrendTracker,

bracelet that can take you day into night. Wide cuffs

she wrote, “It’s fun to see the drama back at the

are still trending, both bloggers say, especially open-

throat… for spring and summer, bigger necklaces in

worked ’60s-look geometric ones with graphic

general are important—that means long links, too.”

patterns in cutouts or gems or enamels. Many of the coolest 2016 versions have a negative-space

Large earrings are also key to the season, said

design—“as do lots of the new über-sized rings,

Edelstein. “Elongated designs with fringe and

too,” emphasized Edelstein. “Be sure to ask your

movement are still strong and, at the same time, big chandeliers and waterfall styles are both

jeweler to show you some great cocktail rings.” On awards show red carpets since the

coming back.” Perez, too, recommended

beginning of this year, you’ve seen

chandeliers and lengthy earrings, adding,

Hollywood A-listers from 18 to 80

“I like simplistic ones that are dangly

wearing gem-colorful designs,

and almost touch the shoulders—

frequently on both hands and

styles on a chain maybe, with decorative

even stacked.

elements

This season’s jewelry recalls the fun and free spirit of the ’60s and ’70s.

BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

MOD

MODERN

What do you get when you combine ethereal gauzy chiffons, neutral-hue combos, maxi dresses with bold geometric patterns, crayonbright color mixes, and miniskirts? “Timeless, ageless, modern clothes that mix 1970s staples with 1960s basics,” said David Wolfe, creative director at trend forecasting agency The Doneger Group. “It’s what style this year is about.”

How exciting is this duo-decade fashion, offering options not only in the dresses, scarves and bags you buy, but especially your jewelry!

“Because clothes from the spring/summer runways cater to a variety of tastes,” noted jewelry blogger Katerina Perez, “the season’s most ontrend pieces are fine and dainty as well as chunky and statement.” (She would know: at press time, the editor in chief of luxury fine jewelry and precious gem site katerinaperez.com was nearing 100,000 Instagram followers.) Perez, who’s worked at high-end houses like Tiffany & Co. and Asprey, emphasized, “With both options in style, the idea is to accessorize with voluminous jewelry, either by wearing a single strong piece or by layering smaller fine ones to create that large look.”

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LAYERING LOOKS TO LOOK FOR

PRECIOUS METALS OF THE MOMENT “I’m seeing more and more being done in yellow gold,” added Edelstein, “because

the demand for yellow gold jewelry keeps growing and growing.” Simultaneously, white gold and black gold designs are also on the rise and, if you like darkened metals, you definitely should think about adding some blackened metal jewelry to your wardrobe. Wolfe says that, going forward into fall/winter, clothes will take on “antique effects, such as jacquards, brocades and tapestries.”

Multiple-ring wardrobing is in fashion for casual everyday as well as evening. And a few rings— even if all are big—should be worn on one hand, just like you see on the runways and celebrities. As for draping necklaces in different lengths, one on top of the other, Perez favors a look she found to be an unexpected surprise on spring’s catwalks: body jewelry in the form of fine web-like designs in chains covering the torso—“like we saw from Calvin Klein and Alexander McQueen.”

Certainly, body-chain layering is fun, as is “layering” on the ears, said Edelstein. “If you’re in your 20s and 30s, especially—or a woman of any age who wants a surefire current jewelry look—mix and match studs and climbers and cuffs up and down the lobe. You can do it for day and evening.”

Several cuff bracelets—some in thinner bangle silhouettes—look really right.

COLORED STONES THAT ARE GEMS THIS SEASON Wolfe advised to “watch for clothes in a practical color palette: lots of black, grays and whites,” carrying through the end of 2016. Such basic neutrals are perfect backdrops to the whole spectrum of gem colors. “Naturally, white diamonds go with everything,” said Edelstein, “but, to be on the cutting edge of style, I suggest you ask your jeweler to show you some designs with opal, labradorite, and emerald too. These three gems, especially, are trending, and they’ll pop those neutrals!”

As a jewelry lover, you probably know that, for at least the

last two years,

opal’s been over-thetop hot.

“And it still is,” Perez said, agreeing with Edelstein. “There’s a lot of fashion interest in colored gems in general—and don’t make the mistake of thinking that’s limited to sapphire, ruby and

emerald.” Perez mentioned current fashionista interest in natural gems with very ’60s-retro hues: “bright-colored spinel, rubellite, garnet and Paraiba tourmaline.”

What about the two shades that the forecasting agency Pantone Color Institute named as the duo of

2016 Colors of the Year, Rose Quartz (a pastel pink) and Serenity (a pale blue)?

Neither is very ’60s or ’70s inspired, for sure, and Wolfe doesn’t see them as hugely important in fashion.

Edelstein suggested not making them ultra-important in your jewelry purchases this year. Nevertheless, “They’re beautiful colors,” Perez noted,

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“and, although they’re not to everyone’s taste, because Pantone named them as significant for 2016, you’ll be seeing more rose quartz and blue chalcedony jewelry by summer.”

Still, more important than the actual gem, she emphasized, “Highstyle designs this season focus on jewelry volume or

shape, as I said earlier.” And, in keeping with the ’60s-redux look, “Sculptural,

geometric pieces or those with patterns take center stage, and they’re mostly executed in rounded, curvy shapes—think silhouettes like discs, waves and halfmoons.”

weddings

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

BLISS

Cap Sleeves Between the ubiquitous strapless gown and the full lace sleeves popularized by Kate Middleton, cap sleeves are the perfect choice for warm-weather weddings where sleeves aren’t practical (and a great option for brides getting married in a house of worship where more modesty is required). Nashvillebased designer Olia Zavozina points out that 2016 trends are “all about customizability, allowing a bride to create her own unique look.” So whatever length you’re looking for, consider sleeves that can be removed for dancing late into the night.

Back Details No matter what type of wedding ceremony you’re planning, chances are guests will spend at least a few minutes looking at your back as you say your I Dos. So why not give them something worth staring at? Keyhole cutouts are sweet yet sexy, while lace and tulle insets leave a bit more to the imagination, Satin, pearl or crystal buttons down the back of your dress lend an airy, antique feeling —just make sure your attendants are on hand to assist!

Lace Capes “Lace is always on trend for me,” reveals Los Angeles-based designer Claire Pettibone, “and I’m always looking for new ways to use it to create beautiful, romantic gowns.” One fresh take on lace is the cape, including the shorter, shawl-like version from Olia Zavozina, below, and Pettibone’s trainlength option at left. (When choosing this style, skip the veil and let your train do the talking.)

This ornate detail will grow in popularity for fall and winter weddings, and carry forward as a trend into 2017.

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IMAGES COURTESY OF CLAIRE PETTIBONE, OLIA ZAVOZINA AND FRANCESCA MIRANDA

Bridal

Vintage touches breathe new life into wedding day dresses.

community

A DIAMONDS M DO GOOD STORY IN HER OWN WORDS...

DEF Scholar Mahoro Chantal Uwiringiyimana speaking at the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s Diamonds in the Sky Las Vegas gala this past May.

“AFRICAN LEADERSHIP ACADEMY MADE ME GROW AS A PERSON, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY INSTILLED IN ME A PASSION FOR AFRICA AND THE SPIRIT OF GIVING BACK.” 56

ahoro Chantal Uwiringiyimana grew up in a poor community in Rwanda, but even as a young girl, she saw the value in obtaining an education. “When I first went to school,” Chantal said, “I had one and only purpose: to know how to read and write in Kinyarwanda, my local language.”

This dream to educate herself was reinforced in Chantal everyday. Living with an illiterate mother and aunts who had no say in family affairs, she came to believe that in order to be valued in her family and community, she would need to be educated.

Chantal’s parents agreed to send her to school, under the condition that she would fetch water for the house every day before class. She happily obliged, though she was the only girl in a class of 30 students.

“Every woman wanted me to write or read for them,” Chantal recalled. Seeing her neighbors’ need, Chantal saw an opportunity to share her education with others, and started a club to teach girls how to read and write.

“At first, most parents never wanted to send their daughters,” she said, “but those who did were amazed by the outcome.” The girls did so well in the literacy club that by the time Chantal was finishing primary school, she was no longer the only female student.

The African Leadership Academy is a program dedicated to fostering Africa’s next generation of leaders through education.

These students are sent to the top colleges and universities in hopes that they will take what they’ve learned and apply it to growing a better economy and life in their respective native countries. Michael Pollak of Hyde Park Jewelers is a proud board member of the Diamond Empowerment Fund, an organization that has supported ALA’s vision since 2009. “At Hyde Park Jewelers, we believe in giving back to the community, whether on the global or local level, and we care that our customers know that we are a force for positive change” said Pollak. “We know that Diamonds Do Good and want to share this message with our customers.”

Attending ALA was a transformative experience for Chantal. “ALA made me grow as a person, and most importantly instilled in me a passion for Africa and the spirit of giving back,” she said.

Currently, Chantal is a rising sophomore at Barrett, the Honors College at Arizona State University, where she is majoring in Bioengineering. She intends to use her degree “to inspire my fellow young African girls” and “to solve the problem of poverty” in African communities much like the one she grew up in. She is also a co-founder of NAYI (New American Youth Initiative) at ASU, which provides mentorship and youth seminars to students in order to foster a sense of social responsibility, belonging and community integration.

To read more good stories behind diamonds, visit diamondsdogood.com.

book review

GOOD AS

GOLD STEPHEN WEBSTER’s new tome has him flying high.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

S

tephen Webster’s jewelry doesn’t look like anyone else’s, so it’s hardly surprising that his book, Gold Struck: A Life Shaped by Jewellery, isn’t quite the kind of book that any of his colleagues would put out. “A book on jewelry seemed too dry to me, and I didn’t want something just to be left on the coffee table,” says the 56year-old British designer. Instead, Gold Struck incorporates personal writing, including a poem and a short story, along with photographs, which explore how he feels about this art form and give readers a glimpse into his life.

“I am glad that the book is being very well received, because it is such a personal tale,” says Webster. “I’ve been writing for many years and I like doing it, but I didn’t have a grand plan to do a book. I am always on planes, and I had to find a way to spend all that time. I say the book was basically all written at 35,000 feet.” (And mostly on an iPad!) As Webster admits, he has a bit of a love-hate affair with flying. “I was 16 when I started making jewelry, and back then, nothing else mattered—except girls. Still, you think, ‘This is always going to be my life, being in a room on a [jeweler’s] bench with some men,’” he says. “So when I discovered I had flown over one million miles, I wondered if I was a bad jeweler. But flying has taken me over the world. And the fact is, I need a very small space to do what I do for a day

job. Sometimes, the only need to get up from the bench is to make some tea.”

Webster notes that his jewelry business has changed drastically over the past few decades. “At the beginning, my clients were basically well-heeled people, the type who could buy art,” he shares. But after he gained some notoriety by designing a ring that was worn by Madonna, his clientele changed. “I am happy now because my line is much more creative; it’s bought by people who want to be excited about the jewelry they buy. They want it to be a conversation piece. That works for me, because I am not interested in making just another ordinary diamond ring.”

The designer would also like to attract a younger audience. “I want to educate the next level of consumers, those in their 20s and 30s, and get them to understand the importance of buying fine jewelry and not just buying whatever is on trend,” he says.

As for what’s next for Webster, his spring collection features such unusual stones as red tourmalines and rubellites. “Things that come out of the ground generally excite me, but not always the usual suspects. I like to work with stones that are harder to find.” And while there will always be new jewelry, Gold Struck may be his only book. Or not. “I have no ambitions for a next book, but I felt a bit empty when we finished the last page,” says Webster. “I felt like I closed a chapter of my life.”

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速ROBERTOCOIN

NEW BAROCCO & CENTO COLLECTIONS

food &wine Jordan Winery library tasting

SONOMA on my mind

SONOMA out-cools Napa.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

F

ifteen or 20 years ago, Northern California’s Sonoma County was considered the laid-back, “lesser” cousin to Napa Valley’s touristfriendly melange of pricey cult wines and large producers. These days the tides have turned a bit: Napa continues to do its highbrow, high-volume thing to ever-increasing traffic snarls. Sonoma’s evolution, meanwhile, has been toward the trendy, experimental and high-concept. In short, Sonoma has become Napa’s cooler sibling.

To start with, naturally, there’s the wine. Thanks to a wide variety of microclimates, less-expensive land than Napa, and generally cooler weather, the small town-focused county has found itself in the fortunate position of being able to explore grapes beyond cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay (both important to the region). Notable pinot noir, old-vine zinfandel and intriguing petit verdot all come out of the region. And there are expanding blocks of sangiovese, grenache, cabernet franc, petite sirah, pinot grigio, merlot and more.

There are about 450 wineries in Sonoma County. Some are small and idiosyncratic: DaVero is a funky biodynamic winery and working farm, specializing in unusual Italian varieties. Others are more ornate: Jordan Winery offers an open-air sunset dinner among its tour options. Located on the highest occupied point on the 1,200-acre estate, “the table is the only place in Sonoma where you can view three appellations from one spot,” according to CEO John Jordan, son of the winery’s founders. “During the Perseid meteor showers, we offer a four-course Starlight Dinner. It’s incredible.” And of course Francis Ford Coppola Winery will give you all the posh, Napa Valley-style character you might desire in its mansion/tasting room, on-site swimming pool for guests and elevated dining experiences.

Many of the county’s winemakers have stepped up their

accommodations game in the past few years. The newly launched guest house at Rodney Strong Vineyards played host in its first year to nine destination weddings, and made Buzzfeed’s list of Top 20 Wedding Locations. Only members of Jordan Winery’s rewards program can score a stay at the castle-like château, with views of the winery’s oak fermentation tanks from one bedroom’s balcony. (It might be worth it to snatch up a few dozen cases just to score that privilege.) For an even more immersive experience, the recently updated and stylish guesthouses at the revitalized Stryker Sonoma Estate outside of Geyserville and St. Anne’s Crossing in Kenwood each place you smack dab in the middle of acres and acres of vines. Each has multiple bedrooms, providing a home base for groups of friends or wedding parties. VRBO.com provides access to a number of otherwise unknown stylish stays throughout wine country. (Some 40% of new luxury homes in Sonoma County are available as vacation rentals.)

Wander into the villages and hamlets, and you’ll find the culinary scene offers much more than grapes. Sonoma produces a wider variety than Napa of local meats, produce and finished products (jams, olive oils, etc.), available at area restaurants and markets. Some of these venues compete dish-for-dish with Napa’s French Laundry or anything in Manhattan. Valette, located in Healdsburg, is only a year old, and already a contender for a Michelin star. Do not let yourself out of the meticulously crafted New American spot without trying the Day Boat Scallops en Croute, a rich, visually striking puff pastry housing said scallops in a Champagne and fennel sauce, and dolloped with caviar. Nearby, Chalkboard prepares well-made dishes and top-notch craft cocktails in a friendly, well-lit space. Shed, a trendy bi-level “farmers’ market” featuring local produce, beers and wines will make sure you’re all stocked up for your return to that charming winery guest house.

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Valette dish

Osmosis Spa zen garden Valette Sonoma

Sonoma Madrona Manor

Sonoma Kenwood Inn

If you’d rather retreat to more traditional surroundings, consider Madrona Manor, the former home of 19th-century banker/magnate John Alexander Paxton. The 18-room Victorian stunner features traditionally appointed spaces (including five suites), no TVs, eight acres of woodlands and gardens, and a heated swimming pool. The secluded, Mediterraneanstyle Kenwood Inn and Spa transports you to another world with modern, understated furnishings, a dining patio enveloped by trees, and every detail carefully attended.

Those who have had their fill of wine tastings can book an appointment at the unique Osmosis Spa in the tiny town of Occidental. A Japanesestyle spa surrounded by zen gardens, it’s an oasis away from absolutely everything. The unusual cedar bath (think mud bath, but with aromatic wood pulp) provides a specialized heat therapy and detoxifies the body. Adventure seekers ought to consider Sonoma Canopy Tours. Rope bridges and seven zip-lines take you on an eco-tour through California’s majestic coastal redwood forest. Need more nature? Just off the coast you’ll find whale, seal and shark watching opportunities from a 33-foot sailboat offered by Bodega Bay Sailing. Or stay on land and shoot a quick nine (or more) while taking in the oceanside views at The Links at Bodega Harbor, or wander among 150-foot tall redwoods at the unique, highly rated Northwood Golf Club.

When it’s time for a drink, but wine isn’t cutting it, Sonoma County is now home to several breweries and two new craft distilleries. Sonoma

County Distilling is producing irreverent, yet carefully made American whiskeys out of an industrial business complex in Rohnert Park, using locally sourced ingredients. Spirit Works, meanwhile, is nestled in the trendy Sebastopol-based Barlow complex of restaurants, shops and artisanal producers. With a grain-to-glass philosophy, the husband-and-wife distilling team incorporates both the high-tech (rapid distillation techniques) and unusual (some barrels sport iPods and headphones, the

Sonoma’s evolution, meanwhile, has been towards the TRENDY, experimental and high-concept.

In short, Sonoma has become Napa’s cooler sibling. whiskey “listening” to anything from classical music to Led Zeppelin as it ages). As of 2016, you can buy the spirits you taste at California distilleries, rather than later hunting down a liquor store.

Being such a forward-thinking region, alternative energy and sustainability are issues on the tip of everyone’s tongues. The Links at Bodega Harbor received the “Green to a Tee” certification in 2010 indicating responsible, earth-friendly maintenance. Sonoma County Distillery’s operations are 100% wind powered. And Jordan Winery generates around 75% of its power needs through on-estate solar panels. ”The last couple of years we’ve been at around 90 to 95% solar because of the lack of rain,” says tour guide Claire Smith. “We hope to produce less of our own energy next year,” she jokes.

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PerfectGEMS

Explore the little luxuries the world has to offer.

CLUTCH MOVE

KEY ACQUISITION Paper may be the traditional gift for a first anniversary, but when you’re married to “The King,” you have to take it up a notch. In 1968, Priscilla Presley made a grand gesture to new husband Elvis: she took the walnut piano he had originally bought as a gift for his mother out of storage, had it adorned with 24-karat gold leaf, and returned it to the music room at Graceland. The lavish Memphis mansion is where Elvis lived until his death in 1977 and where the piano remained for many years. In more recent times, it was purchased by Julien Auctions, a leading celebrity auction house, then placed on exhibit at the Country Music Hall of Fame. It has since been acquired by the Hard Rock International’s memorabilia collection for an astonishing $600,000, and you will soon find it on display in one of the company’s many hotel properties.

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KEY ACQUISITION , ART ACCELERATED , CLUTCH MOVE BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON. FEEL THE BEAT IN THE HEAT BY SHIRA LEVINE

Opera buffs can literally own a piece of history in the form of a handmade clutch by New York City designer Clara Kasavina. A Russian émigré, Kasavina brilliantly transforms cloth from the Metropolitan Opera’s stage curtains, as well as occasional costume swatches from previous productions like Don Carlo and The Merry Widow, into beautifully crafted handbags. These exquisite clutches also feature crystal clasps from the opera house’s gorgeous chandelier, along with hand-sewn silk linings. Smartly, they hold just enough for a night out on the town, including opera glasses. Brava, diva!

ART Accelerated For the past 40 years, some of the world’s greatest artists, including Alexander Calder, Andy Warhol, Jenny Holzer and Jeff Koons, have taken part in the BMW Art Car series, creating vehicles that can hold their own on the race track as well as look great in museums. Joining their ranks are 36-yearold Chinese artist Cao Fei and 85-year-old American artist John Baldessari, who were selected by a jury of major museum and gallery directors and will each put their own touch on a BMW M6 GTE this year. The vehicles will compete in the Nürburgring 24 Hours and the 24 Hours of SpaFrancorchamps, among other races, before joining their forebears at the BMW Museum in Munich. Talk about performance art.

Feel the BEAT In the Heat

Street cred can, in fact, be bought. Or in this case, taught: workshops in graffiti art, skateboarding and dropping beats are among some of the newest entertainment offerings at swanky tropical resorts. Take the W Hotel Vieques, a 25-minute flight from San Juan, where the world-famous Bioluminescent Bay and long stretches of undeveloped beaches lure visitors. The W’s three-day DJ Dispensary class equips participants with mixing and scratching skills while also educating them on music history and the science of curating stellar playlists.

With one-on-one tutoring or twice-daily group lessons, plus nightly sunset spin sessions, amateurs evolve into pros with skillz they’ll be proud to add to their LinkedIn profiles once they return stateside.

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last look

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THINK BIG Stand out in the crowd with these

1. STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant long feather earrings 2. MARCO BICEGO Lunaria triple-drop earrings 3. PHILLIPS HOUSE Apogee cage drop earrings 4. TRADITIONAL JEWELERS Reserve Collection pear drop earrings 5. TRADITIONAL JEWELERS Reserve Collection pear turquoise & agate drop earrings 6. IPPOLITA Rock Candy Cascade earrings 7. PENNY PREVILLE Art Deco cut-out earrings

dazzling STATEMENT EARRINGS!

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Elegance is an attitude

The Longines Master Collection

www.longines.com

Simon Baker

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2016