Address G / F 53 – 55 Hollywood Road, Central, Tel +852 2851 6848 | Getting there MTR Island Line (blue), Central, Exit D 2 or Sheung Wan, Exit E 1 | Hours Mon – Sat 9.30am – 6.30pm, Sun to 6pm | Tip For those on a small budget, Cat Street offers a variety of attractive souvenirs from the recent past.
2__ Art Supermarket Pick up a picture
Until the late 1960s, Hong Kong had just a single gallery. Today there are countless art venues and major players like Gagosian and White Cube have been represented in Hong Kong for many years. Art Basel has even responded to the increased demand for contemporary Asian art with the opening of a local presence. In Hong Kong just about everything revolves around money. Money needs to be cultivated in a way that makes the most sense economically, and those who already own an electric lawn mower as a status symbol often invest in art. (This, in fact, is no joke, as someone who needs a lawnmower has a correspondingly large lawn. And at prices of €10,000 per square metre for a building plot in fringe areas, gardens don’t come cheap.) The Art Supermarket at Mid-Levels takes a new route. The idea is to integrate art into everyday life and to allow a wider audience to surround themselves with it. Everybody is familiar with the concept of the supermarket, so the space is unintimidating. The gallery hopes that customers’ curiosity will overcome some of their inhibitions. Even the name implies that paintings and sculpture don’t have to be expensive, just as exorbitant prices don’t inevitably express a high appreciation for the artist. And it is not unusual for high-priced art to end up in vaults as sober investment decisions. A native of Switzerland, gallery owner Michael Manzardo, who sees himself as a curator rather than an art dealer, focuses on emerging Chinese artists, many of whom have never been exhibited outside China. The mixture of contemporary paintings and sculptures at the Art Supermarket is unconventional and relaxed – pictures in stacks lean against the walls, or pile up in a shopping cart, and the inauguration of a new exhibition is often accompanied by a life art performance. The only thing you won’t be able to do is pay with the Octopus Card. 12
11__ Cattle Depot Artist Village The wide arch of history
The old slaughterhouse in To Kwa Wan – still in operation until 1999 – is worth a visit for many reasons. In 2001 some members of the former Oil Street Artist Village were relocated from North Point to the studios of the newly renovated Cattle Depot. Their ateliers are spread across a large number of old buildings that once were the main slaughterhouse, a fodder store, offices, quarters, and a “room for Indians.” This last room seems strange at first glance, as religion prohibits the slaughter of cattle in India. However, the staff were Indian Muslims from the Colonies, where the British had built slaughterhouses for cattle since 1760. But with their dairy products, manure for the fields, and cattle urine as a natural pesticide, the cow had provided the Indian population with a livelihood. Coupled with severe droughts and the forced conversion of pastures and farmland into opium fields, this caused one of the greatest famines in Bengal, where an estimated 10 million people died between 1769 and 1773. The opium in turn was smuggled into China, which triggered the Opium Wars and the cession of Hong Kong. Together with a number of studios, the site houses the enterprising not-for-profit gallery 1a Space with its temporary exhibitions, workshops, and lectures, as well as the Cattle Depot Theatre and On and On Theatre Workshop, which both put on a wide range of events, from concerts to experimental theatre. During the week it’s rather quiet at the Cattle Depot so you can stroll around, visit the different buildings and intriguing outdoor exhibits, and, if the opportunity arises, talk to the artists about their work. From the grounds of the Depot there is a good view of a typical 1950s’ housing estate on Ma Tau Kok Road, still preserved as a whole complex – a rarity in Hong Kong. 30
11__ Cattle Depot Artist Village The wide arch of history
The old slaughterhouse in To Kwa Wan – still in operation until 1999 – is worth a visit for many reasons. In 2001 some members of the former Oil Street Artist Village were relocated from North Point to the studios of the newly renovated Cattle Depot. Their ateliers are spread across a large number of old buildings that once were the main slaughterhouse, a fodder store, offices, quarters, and a “room for Indians.” This last room seems strange at first glance, as religion prohibits the slaughter of cattle in India. However, the staff were Indian Muslims from the Colonies, where the British had built slaughterhouses for cattle since 1760. But with their dairy products, manure for the fields, and cattle urine as a natural pesticide, the cow had provided the Indian population with a livelihood. Coupled with severe droughts and the forced conversion of pastures and farmland into opium fields, this caused one of the greatest famines in Bengal, where an estimated 10 million people died between 1769 and 1773. The opium in turn was smuggled into China, which triggered the Opium Wars and the cession of Hong Kong. Together with a number of studios, the site houses the enterprising not-for-profit gallery 1a Space with its temporary exhibitions, workshops, and lectures, as well as the Cattle Depot Theatre and On and On Theatre Workshop, which both put on a wide range of events, from concerts to experimental theatre. During the week it’s rather quiet at the Cattle Depot so you can stroll around, visit the different buildings and intriguing outdoor exhibits, and, if the opportunity arises, talk to the artists about their work. From the grounds of the Depot there is a good view of a typical 1950s’ housing estate on Ma Tau Kok Road, still preserved as a whole complex – a rarity in Hong Kong. 30
14__ Chancery Lane
A small alley behind the prison wall
Right next to the old granite steps that lead from Arbuthnot Road up to Chancery Lane, looms the old prison wall. A noticeboard from a bygone time warns passersby not to throw anything over the wall – weapons or opium, for example. In 1841 Victoria Prison was one of the first stone buildings erected in the young colony. The grounds of the prison reached down to Caine Road, which runs parallel to Chancery Lane. Behind the prison wall a small footpath was established, which later became a lane, named after a street in London that houses the High Court of Chancery, today’s Chancery Division, part of London’s High Court of Justice. It’s remarkable that such a huge old building complex right in the centre of the city has stood the test of time. But Hong Kong with its constantly growing population and waves of refugees was permanently running behind with the construction of public housing and government buildings, so that the prison was still in use until 2005. The Former Central Police Station, Central Magistracy, and Victoria Prison had all been declared monuments, and between 2010 and 2016 the complex was extensively restored. Following this period of rejuvenation it now connects the districts of SoHo and Lan Kwai Fong. In the sleepy alley behind the wall, with its small terraces in front of the entrances, time seems to have come to a standstill. As there is no direct access to the lane, it was only marginally affected by the renovation of the prison. Several galleries have settled here, and are worth a visit, some small restaurants, and, to match the ambience, the antiquarian bookshop Lok Man Rare Books. In times of eBooks and large chain bookstores, independent booksellers have become scarce in Hong Kong. For over 10 years the bookstore has been offering all kinds of rare editions that you can browse at your leisure in the calm atmosphere of the shop. 36
Address Chancery Lane, Central | Getting there Bus 10 to Old Bailey Street or Buses 12, 13, 26, or H1 to Old Central Police Station | Tip You can follow the steps all the way down to D’Aguilar Street to join the crowds for a drink at happy hour. Cross Arbuthnot Road, follow the Centrium Stairways and then down the stairs at the back of the LKF Tower.
19__ Colonial Mailboxes A piece of living history
If you keep your eyes open, here and there you will discover an old mailbox from the colonial era, sometimes even one that’s called a “pillar.” Until the 1980s, Hong Kong imported its public letterboxes from England. They bore various royal insignia, which differed from those of the United Kingdom and its colonies, and read “ER II” (Queen Elizabeth II), “GR V,” and “GR VI” (George V and VI). They came in different shapes – round columns, square boxes, some of them embedded in the wall, and large oval columns with two slots. The last remaining oval column stands in front of Central Statue Square, directly by Charter Road. Before the arrival of the phone, the mail played a central role in everyday communication. Even though the colony had had a Postal Department since 1841, the first mailbox wasn’t installed until 1878, when it was situated at Bonham Strand. For important messages, a telegraph communication via submarine and land cable between England and Hong Kong had already been in existence since 1871. However, the information often arrived completely garbled at the other end, because the message had to be transferred 12 to 14 times from one cable section to the next, which was not infrequently done by people with poor English skills. With the handover of Hong Kong, the government wanted to eliminate the vestiges of the colonial past and removed the flags and the pictures of the Queen. But the bright red mailboxes also had a practical value, so they were just painted the green of China Post. In October 2015, the government devised a scheme to cover the royal insignia of the mailboxes with metal plates, as they no longer belonged to the Royal Mail. They were deemed “inappropriate” and would “confuse people,” it was argued. Loud protest was aroused, because Hongkongers were reluctant to lose another piece of their history, and the city wisely dropped its plan. 46
Address The website “Gwulo: Old Hong Kong” maintains a list of old mailboxes with their locations, http://gwulo.com/colonial-postboxes-in-hong-kong | Tip If your shopping has got a bit out of hand in Hong Kong, instead of paying the excess baggage charge at the airport it is usually far cheaper to send a parcel – provided you can wait six weeks.
Address HSBC Headquarters, 1 Queen’s Road, Central | Getting there MTR Island Line (blue), Central Station, Exit J1; tram to Bank Street | Tip In the Prince’s Building right next door you’ll find Sevva, one of Hong Kong’s most chic rooftop bars. (No admission for bare male legs but women’s legs, on the other hand, are welcome.)
36__ Hysan Place A change of perspective
Apart from the footbridges, walking in Hong Kong almost always takes place at street level. So all the better if you can take a ride uphill somewhere (and even better if it’s free) to change perspective and see the city from above. Hysan Place offers one of the best free views over Hong Kong. Unlike most other malls, the system of escalators is partly on the side of the building so you ride up to the top along a glass front. For people with vertigo this may not be recommended, but everyone else will be able to enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding buildings and the hustle and bustle of Causeway Bay, right across to Victoria Harbour. It is very agreeable to be above the rooftops of the city, but it is even better to step outside. On the fourth floor (which is considerably higher than suggested by the number), Hysan Place features one of the few public roof gardens. The very well-kept sky garden with its water fountain is one of the three open spaces in this architecturally impressive building, whose wind circulation is supposed to improve the air quality on Hennessy Road. Natural sunlight pours through glass panels into the main foyer. The roof garden offers an interesting view of typical examples of various eras of housing, and you can look down and see how creative Hong Kong has been in expanding living space skywards. The sixth floor is completely dedicated to The Woman. It’s called the “Garden of Eden” and is decorated appropriately, even down to the WC, where you can wash your hands in an oversized green apple. Even bookworms would enjoy a visit: Hysan Place houses the bookstore Eslite, which stretches over three entire floors. From the 11th floor upwards you are faced with the difficult decision whether to choose a restaurant according to the food or the view it offers. All in all there are more than 30 restaurants and cafés at the food court. 80
37__ IFC Mall Roof Garden Out in the sunshine in the middle of town
Large and secluded gardens with wide-open skies above are quite rare in bustling downtown Hong Kong. One of them is the roof garden of the International Finance Center in Central. To reach it, you have to break away from the alluring shop windows of the prestigious IFC Mall and take one of the lifts in the oval atrium all the way up to the top of the building. On floor L 3 there’s a smaller roof garden offering a magnificent view over the harbour and the Kowloon Peninsula. An escalator takes you to level L 4. Here, a large landscaped roof garden offers benches, generous open spaces, trees, and water basins as well as various cafés and restaurants. If you’ve bought a take-away meal from the supermarket down below, you can find a pleasant place here to eat in peaceful seclusion. Another important feature of this garden is the art pieces. Since 2004, four large sculptures by Korean artist Ahn Pilyun have been enhancing this very special environment. These geometric shapes are clad in a mosaic of coloured glass. The colour changes are fluid – during the day the glass catches the sun’s rays as it moves across the harbour and at night they are illuminated from inside, hence the name of the installation, The Flux. In addition, two of the sculptures make an interesting visual contrast to the steam clouds that are continually emitted by the air conditioning units beside two water troughs. As you approach the sculptures, on each individual glass block relief images of scissors become visible – a recurring motif in the works of Ahn Pilyun. They stand for a positive separation, symbolising a new beginning. “Every act of creativity involves scissors,” says the artist. “It is a metaphor for mankind.” Born in 1960, Ahn Pilyun studied sculpture at the College of Fine Arts, Seoul, and then later moved to New York. She is one of the most famous contemporary Korean artists and exerts great influence on the local art scene. 82
Address Rooftop Garden at IFC Mall, Level 4, IFC Mall, Finance Street, Central | Getting there Next to MTR Stations Hong Kong and Central, and also within walking distance of Central Ferry Piers | Tip Convenient customer toilets are scarce in Hong Kong (often there are none at all within easy reach) – but in the IFC Mall there are plenty on all floors.
38__ Jamia Mosque An oasis of calm
If you ride the escalators up to the Mid-Levels and exit at Rednaxela Terrace, you will notice on your left an ornate gate that usually stands ajar, and behind it, running along a high wall, a flight of old granite steps. It leads to a small courtyard and the Jamia Mosque. The original mosque was first noted as “Mohammedan Mosque” in a travelogue from 1848. It was the first prayer house of Indian seamen who worked on the clippers of tea, and opium traders. Hong Kong’s Muslim community was later enlarged by, among others, Indian policemen and watchmen in the service of the British. As the community grew, in 1896 the much larger mosque at Nathan Road was erected. In 1905 the old Jamia Mosque was torn down and rebuilt from scratch, and today it still serves the Muslim community. Outside the main entrance lies a peaceful small courtyard with a stone bench under a large tree and an old pre-war house that, although in desperate need of repair, nevertheless remains charmingly beautiful. Slightly above the mosque, encircled by high-rise buildings, and only accessible via Caine Road, is a chapel that was built around the same time as the mosque. It is the recently renovated Sacred Heart Chapel of the Canossian Mission. It is not open to the public, unless you attend the Italian service on Sunday mornings at 11am. The entrance can be found behind a large glass door at 39 Caine Road. There is a reception desk and on request you might be allowed to take a look at the modest but beautiful chapel. The proximity of these two buildings symbolises the friendly tolerance that seems to be shared among Hong Kong’s different religious groups. After some 100 members of Hong Kong’s Orthodox community lost their premises on a military base in 1987 due to the withdrawal of the British before the handover, the Canossian Mission made its school chapel available for their Sunday service. 84
Address 30 Shelley Street, Mid-Levels | Getting there Bus 10 to Old Bailey Street | Tip In the immediate vicinity (500 metres) lies the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Garden. From Mosque Street, walking in a southerly direction, take the steps at Bishop Lei House down to the Zoo.
40__ Jardine House The house of a thousand coins
Considering the large number of sizeable enterprises in Hong Kong, you can safely assume that there was hardly a company’s founder whose wealth wasn’t based on opium smuggling, however great a philanthropist he afterwards became. But more skeletons were to be found in the cupboards of Jardine Matheson than anywhere else. While William Jardine was in London pulling political strings, James Matheson remained in Hong Kong taking care of their thriving business. Their warehouse was the first stone building erected on Hong Kong Island, and their company was responsible for more than half of the total sales of opium exported through the port of Canton (now Guangzhou) to China during the second half of the 19th century. It is hardly surprising that Jardine Matheson shifted their corporate headquarters to Bermuda shortly before the handover in 1997, assuming that the Chinese might not treat them as kindly as the British had. But now that’s all water under the bridge and today the company is located in Bermuda, for tax purposes only, while the administration is back at Jardine House in Central. The building with the circular windows, originally known as Connaught Centre, was built in 1973 on reclaimed land bought at auction in 1970. Within just 16 months, a 52-floor office building had been erected and was for many years Hong Kong’s tallest skyscraper. The façade was originally covered with white tiles but these began to fall off, so instead of replacing them the building was encased in an aluminium cladding with the by-now characteristic circular windows. The round windows are a reference to “moon gates,” which play an important role in traditional Chinese architecture. Because of the central role that the company has played in the economic development of Hong Kong, Jardine House is called (among other less polite things) “The House of a Thousand Coins.” 88
Address 1 Connaught Place, Central | Getting there MTR Island Line (blue), Central Station, Exit A | Tip Walking around in the district between Pedder Street and Ice House Street up to Exchange Square, reveals the size of the property empire belonging to Hongkong Land, a subsidiary company of Jardine Matheson.
48__ The Lily
Asia’s richest woman and her feng shui master
For years, the building at 129 Repulse Bay, called The Lily, had been a huge unfinished structure. This was due to a sensational inheritance battle: in April 2007, at the age of 69, the richest woman in Asia, Nina Wang, who was nicknamed Little Sweetie, died. Much to the dismay of her relatives, she bequeathed her entire property to her feng shui master, Tony Chan Chun-chuen. At least, that was how it appeared when Chan submitted to the probate court both a will signed in October 2006 and eight boxes full of love letters and souvenirs. Nina Wang’s husband, Teddy Wang, was kidnapped in 1990, never found and declared legally dead in 1999. Meanwhile Nina Wang, who had no children, took over as “Chairlady” of the Chinachem Group. She consolidated and expanded the company and invested heavily in property. In 1992 the multi-billionairess met Tony Chan Chun-chuen, who was 20 years her junior, when the (self-appointed) feng shui master relieved her of a blinding headache by giving a head massage. She rewarded him with HK$50,000 (US$6,500) and asked for further treatments. Their subsequent love affair lasted for the next 15 years. Shortly before her death Nina gave her lover three times the lucky sum of HK$688 million (US$89 million) – the rest of her possessions were to be transferred to the Chinachem Charitable Foundation, a trust fund managed by her siblings. But following Nina Wang’s death two wills emerged – one leaving her fortune to the Foundation, the other leaving it all to Chan. After four years of litigation, Chan’s claim was dismissed. The signature on the will he presented was shown to be forged. Finally The Lily, designed by the architect Sir Norman Foster, could be completed. Particularly striking is its graceful outward-curving postmodern form and the panoramic lift. In July 2013, Chan was given a 12-year sentence for greed and forgery of a will. 104
Address 129 Repulse Bay Road, Repulse Bay | Getting there MTR Hong Kong Station, Exit D, then from Exchange Square bus terminal either Bus 6, 6A, 6X, 66, or 260 to stop “Hacienda” in Repulse Bay | Tip Also interesting is the adjacent The Repulse Bay with a hollow central hole, by which, as they say, “the mountain dragon can look at the sea,” which in turn ensures good feng shui.
Address Winner Building, 5B, 37 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central | Getting there MTR Island Line (blue), Central Station, Exit G | Hours Daily: 12 noon – 2pm and 6pm – 8pm | Tip Bring handkerchiefs. Spicy food irritates the nose, and as with everywhere in Hong Kong, napkins may not be available.
54__ Maritime Museum All hands on deck
Although the Hong Kong Maritime Museum is located on Ferry Pier in Central, it is often overlooked – even though it was moved to a supposedly more central location from its first one in Murray House, Stanley. People probably associate the piers with the Star Ferry and not with a museum. All the same, this private museum, which is fully funded by the international shipping community, has a lot to offer: old model ships, photos, artifacts, and nautical instruments. Animated maps tell the history of commerce in the colony’s early days highlighted by sound effects like bells, waves, and even sea shanties. Since the days of the Tang Dynasty there had been brisk trading between China and Southeast Asia, Arabia, and India via the port of Canton, today’s Guangzhou. Although Marco Polo had already given an account of China in the 13th century, it was not until 1513 that a Portuguese expedition left its base in Malacca for China. The Portuguese were dismissed by the Chinese, but they could at least confirm that Marco Polo’s tales about the Middle Kingdom had been no figment of his imagination. Despite their negative reception, the persistent Portuguese succeeded over time and were able to establish trade relations with Chinese and Japanese merchants. In 1555 they were allowed for the first time to make a port call at Canton, where they gained the Chinese government’s trust through their help in the fight against piracy and in return were given permission to build an outpost on Macau. For nearly a century all trade between Europe and China was conducted via Macau, which made the city one of the richest in the world. What happened afterwards we learn in the museum. On top of that, in a mockup of a ship’s bridge you can use computer simulation to control a container ship coming into port at Victoria Harbour in rough seas. It is so realistic that you almost feel seasick. 116
90__ The Stoep
The oldest South African restaurant in Hong Kong
For a genuine South African feel, there is only one place to go in Hong Kong: The Stoep at Lower Cheung Sha Beach. Dolla Bruce, the owner, has a head for business. In 1994 she opened up her first restaurant, The Gallery, in Tong Fuk, which soon became a hotspot for weekenders. Dolla’s next step some years later was one bay further up the Lantau coast, with the opening of her restaurant The Stoep, right by the beach. Delicious South African-style food, such as boerewors (spicy sausage) and bobotie (spiced minced meat), served with freshly baked loaves of garlic bread or yellow rice made the journey worthwhile. As word spread, South Africans and expats from the upmarket residential areas of Discovery Bay (DB) flocked to the place at weekends. Even the Lantau taxi drivers, not normally known for their fluency in English, soon knew where to find The Stoep. Sitting in front of the restaurant under the trees, with a cold South African white wine, watching beach life, was (and still is) worth experiencing. Small herds of water buffalo often walk along the shore and the occasional cow might decide to join you in the shade. Other bars and restaurants followed, as well as a canoe and windsurfing rental business, and all could have lived happily ever after if it wasn’t for a landlord who never invested in the building and after 15 years did not renew the lease of Dolla’s thriving business. But The Stoep isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an institution. Luck was on her side, and Dolla Bruce found a new location, on the same beach, just a bit further down, next to the little stream. You cross the bridge, turn right and you’re greeted by the familiar delicious barbecue smell and the ever-smiling staff, cosy sitting nooks, and a huge koi pond. Sitting on the jetty across the illuminated pond, and watching the kois being fed, is the particular highlight of the evening. 188
Address Lower Cheung Sha Beach, Lantau, Tel +852 2980 2699 | Getting there Bus stop Cheung Sha Ha Tsuen. Take the ferry from Central to Mui Wo, at the Mui Wo ferry and bus terminal change to Bus to Tai O or Bus 4 to Tong Fuk; from Tung Chung Bus 11 to Tai O | Hours Weekdays 12 noon – 7pm, weekends 12 noon – 8pm | Tip The beach is well equipped with a public changing room and a couple of showers.
The Authors Kathrin Bielfeldt is a translator, copywriter and former expat. During a backpacking tour through Hong Kong and China in 1990, she lost her heart to the country, its people, and their culture. Life took her around the world, but Hong Kong remains, for her, the most beautiful city on Earth.
Raymond Wong is a native of Hong Kong. He is a successful author of travel guides, a ghostwriter, and a columnist – and one of the first men in Hong Kong to take parental leave.
The Photographer Jürgen Bürger is a translator, webdesigner, outstanding photographer, and an expert on street art. Since he walked through Hong Kong for weeks and still didn’t make it to the Walled City Park, he just wants one thing: to book the next journey to Hong Kong.