Antique Collecting November 2023 by ACC Art Books

AU C T I O N R E S U LT S T H E E N D U R I N G PA S S I O N F O R A R T D E C O B O O K O F F E R S

NOVEMBER 2023

MAKIING HEADLINES The jewellery collection of a pioneering broadcaster goes under the hammer

ANTIQUE COLLECTING VOL 58 N0.6 NOVEMBER 2023

Inside:

FALLING IN LOVE WITH GILLOWS

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BROCANTES

WHISKY GALORE

DISCOVER THE EVERYDAY BOTTLES WORTH A FORTUNE

7 Leading

ébénistes

every collector should know

SOLE TO SOLE THE HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR

Hats Off!

A milliner’s workshop for sale in Nis up or Yorkshire th

The French Issue

On the eve of a new film on Napoleon Bonaparte we put the decorative arts of the First Empire in the spotlight ALSO INSIDE Geoffrey Munn reveals all • Sale previews • Best puzzles

A FRENCH TOUCH

More than 6,000 auctions across Europe Old Masters paintings - Furniture - Jewellery - Books...

FIRST WORD

Welcome Napoleon Bonaparte: benign dictator and brilliant military commander, or warmongering tyrant? The reason I ask is because I suspect a lot of information on the founder of the First French Empire may be coming your way this month. It’s due to the release of Ridley Scott’s much-hyped film called, fittingly enough, Napoleon, starring Joaquin Phoenix in the title role. We thought we’d get in first, devoting the larger part of magazine to France, its decorative arts and even its must-visit brocantes. Ridley Scott has made no secret of the direction his film will take, portraying the famous dictator as a Hitler crossed with Stalin (to the outrage of the French). Bony’s enduringly poor reputation in this country may be due to the fact his rise coincided with that of the Georgian satirists, such as James Gillray and George Cruikshank, who endlessly lampooned him and his grandiose aspirations. The ridicule stuck: from Dad’s Army’s Warden Hodges labelling bumptious Captain Mainwaring “Napoleon”, to anyone of small stature and fiery temper being said to have a Napoleon complex. But, egotistical warmonger or not, the First French Empire was certainly responsible for some jolly fine furniture. We put the era and its decorative arts in the spotlight on page 16. Still in Gallic mood, as we approach the centenary of the L’ Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes, which gave birth to art deco, we consider the movement’s enduring style, see page 24. On page 28, the French interiors specialist and collector Marin Montagut reveals his favourite flea markets – if you are planning a trip across the Channel it is well worth a look. Elsewhere, on page 36, we dip into the deliciously revealing autobiography of Antiques Roadshow expert and Fabergé legend, Geoffrey Munn. And, with November 16 marking the start of the four busiest malt whisky-buying weeks of the year, Mark Littler focuses on a 1926 cask which went on to produce four of the best-selling bottles of all time. Enjoy the issue and vive la France!

IN THIS ISSUE

SALLY OLIVER

Discover more about the coin specialist and valuer, page 8

SARAH WHITE

Goes behind the scenes of a special sale of hats and their accessories, page 34

GEOFFREY MUNN

The Antiques Roadshow specialist reveals his royal encounters, page 36

Georgina Wroe, Editor

PS Because next month’s magazine is a joint December and January issue it will be with you slightly later, expect delivery from the second week of December.

MARK LITTLER

KEEP IN TOUCH Write to us at Antique Collecting, Riverside House Dock Lane, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 1PE, or email magazine@accartbooks.com. Visit the website at www.antique-collecting.co.uk and follow us on Twitter and Instagram @AntiqueMag

ONLY £38

Our spirits expert reveals how a single cask produced four bottles of whisky worth £4m, page 48

We love!

This Kangxi period (1661-1722) famille verte model of foreigners aboard a ship, which has an estimate of £7,000-£10,000 at Bonhams New Bond St on November 2.

for 10 issues

THE TEAM Editor: Georgina Wroe, georgina. wroe@accartbooks.com Online Editor: Richard Ginger, richard.ginger@accartbooks.com Design: Philp Design, james@philpdesign.co.uk Advertising and subscriptions: Charlotte Kettell 01394 389969, charlotte.kettell @accartbooks.com

SUBSCRIBE TODAY TO ANTIQUE COLLECTING Call 01394 389969 or email charlotte.kettell@accartbooks.com

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 3

The Lucinda Riley Auction

the Private Collec�on from interna�onal bestselling author Lucinda Riley to include couture fashion, accessories, jewellery and watches

Full auction details are available on our website

www.bishopandmillerauctions.co.uk Glandford Auction Gallery: 12 Manor Farm, Glandford, nr Holt, Norfolk, NR25 7JP norfolk.enquiries@bm-auctions.co.uk 01263 687342 Stowmarket saleroom: 19 Charles Industrial Estate, Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 5AH enquiries@bm-auctions.co.uk 01449 673088

THIS MONTH

REGULARS

Editor’s Welcome: Georgina Wroe introduces this month’s issue with a special French focus

Antiques News: Behind the scenes at three exhibitions taking place this month, as well as details of two potential record breakers going under the hammer

10 Your Letters: More on the merits and demerits of imperial and metric measurements and information on a very spooky souvenir

Contents VOL 58 NO 6 NOVEMBER 2023

AU C T I O N R E S U LT S T H E E N D U R I N G PA S S I O N F O R A R T D E C O B O O K O F F E R S

The jewellery collection of a pioneering broadcaster goes under the hammer

WHISKY GALORE

DISCOVER THE EVERYDAY BOTTLES WORTH A FORTUNE

ANTIQUE COLLECTING

VOL 58 N0.6 NOVEMBER 2023

Leading ébénistes

Inside:

22 Subscription Offer: Save up to a third on the annual cover price and you or a friend receives a free book and bag 32 Waxing Lyrical: Antique furniture expert David Harvey reminisces on a 50-year love affair with the celebrated furniture maker Gillows

NOVEMBER 2023

MAKIING HEADLINES

12 Around the Houses: A folk art Noah’s Ark attracts excitement in a saleroom in Suffolk while a “lost” Constable creates waves in Guernsey

every collector should know

FALLING IN LOVE WITH GILLOWS

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BROCANTES

34 Saleroom Spotlight: There’s a rare sale of hats and milliner’s accessories taking place in North Yorkshire. Specialist Sally White reveals her highlights

SOLE TO SOLE THE HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR

Hats Off!

A milline workshop isr’s up for sale in North Yorkshire

The French Issue

On the eve of a new film on Napoleon Bonaparte we put the decorative arts of the First Empire in the spotlight ALSO INSIDE Geoffrey Munn reveals all • Sale previews • Best puzzles

COVER

A pair of gemset earrings, by JAR, which has an estimate of $180,000-$250,000 at the sale of the Barbara Walters collection at Bonhams New York on November 6, image courtesy of Bonhams

40 Puzzle Pages: Think you know antiques? Challenge yourself against the mighty brain of our quiz editor Peter Wade-Wright

42 58 Fairs Calendar: Never miss another fair with our UK-wide listings 60 Auctions Calendar: All the sales from the major UK auction houses taking place this month in our up-to-date five-page guide 66 Marc My Words: Another fascinating slice of life from Antiques Roadshow specialist Marc Allum

FEATURES 16 The Empire Strikes Back: In the month a new film on Napoleon launches, we raise the curtain on furniture and decorative arts from the First French Empire 24 Fashion Forward: Almost a century on from the first exhibition of art deco in Paris, author Alastair Duncan considers its enduring style and one of the designers at the forefront of the movement

47 An Auctioneer’s Lot: Ahead of this month’s Remembrance Sunday, Charles Hanson showcases four medals from a gallant WWI hero

28 Beret Good: Ever wondered which antique fairs the French head to? Local bargain hunter and collector Marin Montagut provides an insider’s guide

52 Top of the Lots: The staggering collection of legendary broadcaster Barbara Walters is up for sale in New York while, closer to home, two coronation chairs go under the hammer

36 Munn of the Moment: Antiques Roadshow favourite and Fabergé expert Geoffrey Munn recalls some remarkable encounters during a career spanning 50 years

54 Book Offers: Steal a march on this year’s Christmas present buying with the latest titles from our sister publisher ACC Art Books and save more than a third on the cover price

42 Heart and Sole: On the eve of a new exhibition, buckle up for our whistlestop tour of the unsung and fascinating history of shoes

57 Fairs News: A new fair launches in London, while well-heeled collectors head to Compton Verney for the prestigious CADA fair

48 Against the Grain: Mark Littler chronicles the remarkable career of a pioneering female distiller responsible for a single cask that produced four bottles of whisky which sold for £4m

TO SUBSCRIBE TODAY VISIT WWW.ANTIQUE-COLLECTING.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE WEEKDAYS FROM 9.30AM TO 1PM, ANTIQUE COLLECTING 5

NEWS All the latest

WHAT’S GOING ON IN NOVEMBER

ANTIQUE

news

Two major works of art are up for sale in London and Paris, while a stolen Martinware bird jug is returned to its owners What’s in store A rare painting by the Italian Baroque artist Artemisia Gentileschi (1593-1653), discovered in a storeroom, has gone on show at Windsor Castle. The work, Susanna and the Elders, is regarded as a key addition to Gentileschi’s body of work, shedding light on her time in London in the late 1630s, when she briefly worked alongside her father, Orazio (1563-1639), at the English court. Seven paintings by Artemisia were recorded in Charles I’s inventories but only her self portrait was thought to have survived. Susanna and the Elders had been in store at Hampton Court Palace for more than a century, wrongly attributed as ‘French School’. A CR (Carolus Rex) on the canvas back confirmed the painting was once in Charles I’s collection.

6 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Above The new display

of paintings by the Italian Baroque artist Artemisia and Orazio Gentileschi in the Queen’s Drawing Room at Windsor Castle Below Henry Moore (1898-1986) Head, 1930, carved in ironstone, 1930, 17.7cm (7in) high, it has an estimate of £2.2m-£2.6m

HEAD’S UP A “vulnerable” female head carved in ironstone by the sculptor Henry Moore (1898-1986) has an estimate of £2.2m-£2.6m at auction this month. The Independent’s art critic, Mark Hudson, said: “The image of woman in the delicate form of Head (1930) appears more vulnerable than the robust forms of the previous decade. The features appear immersed in some semi-conscious state, sleep or rapture.” Head, which goes under the hammer at Bonhams on November 22, has been exhibited at both UK and international galleries and featured in a major show on Henry Moore at London’s Tate Britain in 2010. Moore was born in a small mining town in Yorkshire, the seventh son of a coal miner. After studying at Leeds School of Art and the Royal College of Art in London, by the 1930s he was among the leading avant-garde sculptors in Europe. He is best known for his monumental bronzes, often inspired by the mother and child.

Left Hans Holbein the

Younger (1497-1543) Sir Henry Guildford, 1527, Royal Collection Trust/ © His Majesty King Charles III, 2023 Right Elisabeth Frink (1930-1993) Green Man (Blue), 1992. Dorset Museum collection. Artist © Kindly approved by Tully and Bree Jammet Below left Hans

Holbein the Younger (1497-1543) John Godsalve, c.1543?, Royal Collection Trust/ © His Majesty King Charles III, 2023 Left Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543) Anne Boleyn,1532–1536, Royal Collection Trust/ © His Majesty King Charles III, 2023

1Court in the act

Portraits from the Tudor court are the subject of an exhibition opening this month at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace. Made up of more than 100 works from Henry VIII’s court, including drawings, paintings and miniatures by Hans Holbein the Younger, it marks the largest group of the artist’s works from the Royal Collection exhibited in 30 years. Holbein at the Tudor Court, from November 10 to April 14, highlights the artist’s time at court in the first half of the 16th century when he rose to become the most important artist in the country. His portraits allow a modern audience to come face to face with some of the key figures of the era, from Anne Boleyn to Sir Thomas More.

The first exhibition dedicated to Elisabeth Frink’s (1930-1993) time in Dorset opens at a museum in the county in December. Opening 30 years after her death, the exhibition, Works in A View from Within at Dorset Museum from December 1 to April 21, showcases more than 80 sculptures, drawings and prints, many of which were created at her Woolland studio in Dorset between 1976 and 1993. Frink was well known for her fascination with horses and the spiritual properties they possessed. One her last sculptures Standing Horse (1993), finished at Woolland just weeks before her death from cancer, will be included in the exhibition which also includes a recreation of the studio itself.

3 to see in

November Above far right

Elisabeth Frink, 1985, © Anthony Marshall, courtesy of Dorset History Centre Above right Elisabeth

Frink (1930-1993) Standing Horse, 1993. Dorset Museum collection. Artist © Kindly approved by Tully and Bree Jammet

Light show

Monumental light shows of the Georgian era are the subject of a new exhibition at the Sir John Soane’s Museum in Lincoln’s Field, London. At the height of the 18th century, complex light displays, fir eworks and transparencies were important aspects of the era’s popular entertainment. The exhibition include two never-seen linen transparencies created as part of a UK-wide “illumination night” to celebrate Napoleon’s defeat in 1814. To mark the victory back-lit transparencies were displayed in the windows of public buildings and principal houses across London and other cities. The display also showcases Soane’s plans for illuminating the Bank of England to mark the recovery of George III from illness in 1789. Georgian Illuminations runs until January 1.

Think Frink

Above Unknown Artist, A View of

the Temple of Concord, Created in the Green Park, to Celebrate the Glorious Peace of 1814, collection of Melanie Doderer-Winkler Below Robert Pollard (1755–1838) engraver, after Thomas Rowlandson (1757-1827), Vauxhall, aquatint, c.1786

Above John Heaviside Clark

(1771-1863) The Chinese Bridge Illuminated, Royal Collection Trust/ © His Majesty King Charles III, 2023

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 7

NEWS All the latest Wibble wobble The unusual topic of Victorian jellies is the subject of a new exhibition opening at a London gallery this month, hoping to explore the historical and cultural significance of the gelatinous delights. J/M Gallery, in Portobello Road is hosting work by contemporary artist Florence Houston from November 1-7. A spokesperson said: “With meticulous attention to detail, Houston’s series of stunning paintings pay homage to the Victorian era’s obsession with jellies as both a culinary delight and a symbol of social status.” From the opulence of royal banquets to the creativity of home cooks, Victorian jellies were not only a culinary delight but also a symbol of sophistication and status.

Doing bird A rare bird jar by the Martin Brothers has been returned to London’s Pitzhanger Manor & Gallery, 16 years after it was stolen. An early morning heist on March 22, 2007, saw thieves make off with 24 valuable Martinware sculptures, then valued at £250,000. The bird jar was spotted after being consigned for sale at Kinghams Auctioneers in Moreton-in-Marsh this summer. Founder of Art Recovery International, Christopher A. Marinello, said: “The recovery was very much a team effort.” Above (L-R) Christopher A.

Marinello and Dr Jonathan David Oates, the archivist for the borough of Ealing, image credit Marta Zalewska

Above Florence Houston, Tutti Frutti, one of the works on show

ON THE TOWNER Towner Eastbourne in East Sussex has unveiled work by the four Turner Prize- nominated artists, ahead of the winner being announced next month. Work from Jesse Darling, Ghislaine Leung, Rory Pilgrim and Barbara Walker has gone on show as part of the gallery’s centenary year. The Turner Prize was established in 1984 and is awarded each year to a British artist for an outstanding exhibition or other presentation of their work. The Turner Prize award is £55,000 with £25,000 going to the winner and £10,000 each for the other shortlisted artists. The winner will be announced on December 5 at Eastbourne’s Winter Garden.

30 seconds with... Coin specialist Sally Oliver who has joined Fellows Auctioneer’s new numismatics department in London When did your interest in coins start? I have a background in ancient history both academically and personally. I well remember going for sleepovers at the British Museum when I was about nine or 10 and being absolutely fascinated by the artefacts I was sleeping between. So when I first started working with coins in 2018, I was drawn to the classical world which is opened up by coins. The opportunity to handle objects every day,

8 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Above The Towner Eastbourne decorated by Lothar Götz,

2019, photo by Eva Eastman

some of which are more than two millennia old, is an absolute privilege. What has been your biggest find? One of the most fascinating coins I’ve been able to work with is a medallion of Priscus Attalus. He was an ‘emperor’ or usurper of the Roman Empire against Honorius in 409410. He was only in power for a few months and was the last non-Christian ruler of the empire. It really brought home to me that I was holding history in my hands. Which coin would you most like to come across? I am a big fan of Greco-Baktrian coinage as it informs so much of our knowledge of this kingdom dating from 250 to 130BC. Tetradrachms from the period are truly

artistic. I would love to come across a gold 20 stater coin of Eucratides I, which is supposedly 58mm in diameter. However, as there is only one known example, which is currently in a museum in Paris, I am unlikely to come across one at auction. Do you collect? If so what? Working in an auction house is like bringing together a highly-curated collection every time we hold an auction. It means we get to see all varieties of goods that come across our desks, and those of our colleagues, without ever having to commit to collecting any one type of thing. Fellows’ inaugural Monies, Medals and Militaria sale is on November 22.

Write stuff A rare copy of Shakespeare’s First Folio has gone on display at the National Library of Scotland in Edinburgh as part of this year’s celebration of the book’s 400th anniversary. It is one of only two other copies of the book in publicly accessible collections in Scotland, those being held at the University of Glasgow and Mount Stuart Trust on the Isle of Bute. November marks the actual birthday of the book, which was first offered for sale in 1623. The First Folio contains 36 plays, 18 of which were published for the first time, thus saving such works as The Tempest and Macbeth from extinction. About 750 copies of the folio were printed, with 235 known to have survived, with 50 copies still in the UK.

French fancy A painting by the 18th-century French artist Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806) not on the market for more than a century is expected to make €4m-€6m when it goes on the block in Paris this month. The oil on canvas Sacrifice to the Minotaur had been in both the Walferdin collection and Jacques Doucet collection before being acquired by the present owners in 1912. Celebrated for his flamboyant rococo style, Fragonard’s best known work is Les Hasards Heureux de L’Escarpolette (The Swing), painted in 1767 and in the Wallace Collection. Sacrifice to the Minotaur will be part of Artcurial’s autumn Old Master and 19th-century art sale on November 22. Above Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806) Sacrifice to the Minotaur is on sale in Paris this month

NEW AUCTION

TURN AGAIN 600 years after the death of Dick Whittington, historian and guide Jill Finch will present a talk on one of London’s most famous sons. The hour-long lecture at the Guildhall Library on November 16 will explore the truth behind the folk tale (and pantomime) which sees a penniless orphan from Gloucestershire seek his fortune in London. After initial disappointment, the bells of St Mary-le-Bow urged him and his cat to “turn again” resulting in his ultimate success and three tenures as the Mayor of London. In reality Whittington was a furrier to Richard II and prosperous money lender. There is also no evidence he ever owned a feline. Above A 20th-century window celebrating Dick

Whittington and his cat at the 13th-century church St Michael Paternoster Royal Church, London

A New York auction house has unveiled plans for its first exhibition of works by contemporary Native American artists. New Terrains, opens at Phillips on January 5 and includes works by 50 artists from the diaspora of Native American tribes and Canadian first nations people. One such is Fritz Scholder (1937-2005) who was one-quarter Luiseño Indian. After earning a master of fine arts degree from the University of Arizona in 1964 he became a leader of the New American Indian Art Movement. Right Fritz Scholder (1937-2005), Sitting Indian,

1972, one of the artworks on show next year

Snap happy

The 74-photograph album includes never-seen photos of Prince Philip

A photo album which captured Prince Philip’s solo round-the-world cruise in 1959 has gone on sale in Lymington. Antique dealer Charles Wallrock of Wick Antiques spotted the album, which shows pictures of the Duke of Edinburgh aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia, at a recent sale. Put together by an official photographer for himself, it follows the four-month journey taking in Singapore, Hong Kong and a number of South Pacific islands. The prince is snapped being carried aloft in a boat on the island of Vaitupu before a feast of roast sucking pig and breadfruit. The album is on sale for £1,250. ANTIQUE COLLECTING 9

LETTERS Have your say

Your Letters

The debate over imperial or metric measurements continues, plus details of a gruesome souvenir

In response to the recent correspondence regarding imperial or metric measurements, I have to say, being in my 80s, I am very comfortable with feet and inches. Ideally, where an instant understanding of size is important, such as for pictures, both measurements would be included. In other descriptions of, say, Georgian furniture they read more happily in the system in which they were made. It is infuriating to have measurements, which were imperial, bossily converted to metric. People brought up with metric must surely understand imperial, if only from reading earlier books. Take, for example, munros – Scottish mountain peaks whose height is above 3,000 feet. James Copeland, by email I was pleased to see an article about the German painter Hans Feibusch (1898-1998) (Studio Session, October issue) who is an artist in whom I have a particular interest because his works decorate my church, St Michaels and All Angels in Paulsgrove, near Portsmouth. His main piece, behind the altar, is of Christ casting out the devil. It is a work I like, but can’t rave about. For me, the highlight is his ceiling piece showing angels in a circle. I believe this work was commissioned by the Bishop of Chichester in 1957 when the church was built. There is another work of his in Chichester Cathedral. Michael Birchmore, Paulsgrove, Portsmouth, by email

10 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Our star letter

receives a copy of British Designer Silver by John Andrew and Derek Styles worth £75. Write to us at Antique Collecting magazine, Riverside House, Dock Lane, Melton, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 1PE or email magazine@ accartbooks.com

Above left Munros, such as Buachaille Etive Mor in the Scotland Highlands, are measured in feet not metres

St lettar er

After reading about Polstead’s infamous 1827 Red Barn murder in last month’s magazine (Halloween Top of the Lots) where Maria Marten was killed by the local squire William Corder, I thought readers may be interested to learn of a number of purposebuilt souvenirs relating to the horrible slaying. After the murder some 10,000 onlookers turned out to watch Corder hang for the grisly crime, with a further 200,000 trophy hunters visiting the barn to pick it apart for souvenirs. Such was the huge public interest, Staffordshire pottery decided to produce a number of models including the barn itself with Corder beckoning to Maria Marten to join him inside, as well as the couple standing hand in hand. It might sound ghoulish to us, but I imagine it’s as close to a true crime documentary as people got in the 19th century. Sam Hall-Wright, by email

Above right

Staffordshire figures depicting the macabre event, image courtesy of Bonhams Below The mural by Hans Feibusch is behind the church’s altar

Left The ceiling work shows a circle of angels

The answers to the quiz on page 40.

Q1 (b) Two brothers John and Joseph, both were London gunmakers. Q2 (a) He was a French printmaker who discovered that the use of granulated resin gave a satisfactory, but not perfect, result. Q3 (c) Monkey Orchestra created by Meissen is believed to be a parody of the Dresden Court Orchestra. Q4 (b) Pottery in the shape of a pig with the head used as a cup. Q5 (d) Made by goldsmiths in Rome and sent by popes to significant servants of the Church. Q6 (b) Known by collectors for his famous Mouseman furniture. Q7 (c).The term came about in 1797 when a tax of five shillings on clocks was introduced. The levy was unpopular among clockmakers and was repealed nine months later. Q8 (d). Admiral Lord Howe was a popular figure in the UK from his time as Admiral of the Fleet when he gained a reputation for his concern over sailors’ conditions. Q9 (c) Named after a style of watch chain Prince Albert wore during the Victorian period. Q10 (a) The porcelain is unique for the quality of its translucency and whiteness, but also had a high kiln-wastage. Answers to the anagrams. The words phased art can be rearranged to make the words hard paste; the anagram anti-oilman can be rearranged to make the word lamination; reticent gallop is an anagram of electroplating and aircrew’s hound can be rearranged to make the phrase cushion drawer.

The Canterbury Auction Galleries

thecanterburyauctiongalleries

FINE ART AUCTIONEERS SINCE 1911

Established in 1911, we are Kent’s leading auctioneers and valuers of Art / Collectibles / Antiques / Jewellery / Clocks / Coins / Ceramics Watches / Gold / Silver / Furniture / Photography / Retro classics For professional and sensitive probate or insurance valuations in Kent and surrounding areas, trust our specialist valuers Telephone: 01227 763337 Email: general@tcag.co.uk www.thecanterburyauctiongalleries.com

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02/10/2023 11:26

AUCTION Sales round up

AROUND the HOUSES

This month’s sales include a folk art Noah’s Ark and a rare Luftwaffe wristwatch

The Polish artist Wojciech Kossak was known for his battle scenes and horse paintings

The Cotswold Auction Company, Cirencester A mid-19th century Russian figure of the Italian Renaissance artist Paul Veronese doubled its estimate of £500 to £800 to make £1,600 at the auction house’s recent sale. It was produced by the Popov manufactory which was founded in Moscow in 1804 and became one of the most important private manufacturers of hard-paste porcelain in Russia in the 19th and 20th centuries. It was well-known for its European designs with Eastern influences. The Popov manufactory was one of the best makers of hard-paste porcelain in Russia

Roseberys, south London

Bishop & Miller, Stowmarket A 19th-century Noah’s Ark set, with 90 painted animals and birds, more than tripled its guide price of £1,000-£1,500 when it sold for £3,500 at the Suffolk auctioneer’s recent sale. The set, possibly from the Erzgebirge region of east Germany, was part of the Eyton Court Collection – and one in a series of important sales taking place over a week. With the decline of the mining industry workers turned to carving wooden toys, soon establishing a thriving global industry. The sale of another collection, that of Diana Steel, founder of the Antique Collectors’ Club and Antique Collecting magazine, saw a painting by the Polish artist Wojciech Kossak (1857-1942) sell for £5,125, against a pre-sale estimate of £2,000-£3,000. Kossak followed in the footsteps of his father Juliusz Kossak (1824-1899) who was a favourite artist of the German Kaiser Wilhelm II, and known, like his son, for depictions of horses, battles and historical portraits. The folk art Noah’s Ark included animals and insects varying from grasshoppers to elephants

A rare and fresh-to-market Italian lava stone and pietre dure (hard stones) table top, expected to make £6,000£10,000 sold for £23,600 at the auction house’s recent sale. It was attributed to the artist Giovanni Battista Cali, about whom little is known other than The bone he was Sicilian and active in Naples in the cribbage board second half of the 19th century. He was also was made on one a great innovator of the use of lavic stone in of five whaling his compositions. trips aboard the Like this one, Cali’s pieces often Cretan depicted views of Vesuvius and Etna. The tabletop also shows the three sons of Uranus and Gaea, namely Arges, Brontes, and Steropes. At the same sale, a scrimshaw cribbage board dated May 1st 1818 from the whaling brig Cretan, which was expected to make £300-£500, sold for £1,700. HMS Cretan was a former French naval vessel captured by the Royal Navy in 1808 and sold in 1815 after which she made five voyages as a whaler until 1831. The pietre dure tabletop was by the Sicilian maker Giovanni Battista Cali

12 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

The Egyptian revival brooch proved a red hot seller in North Yorkshire

Halls, Shrewsbury A trio of teacup, coffee cup and saucer, c. 1827, was among the top sellers at the Shropshire auctioneer’s recent sale when it fetched £1,500, against an estimate of £300-£500. The pieces were produced by the short-lived Pieces by H&R Daniel manufactory and came from the H&R Daniel collection of the late Michael Berthoud, much were considered of which was dedicated to the better than even Minton or Spode Stoke-on-Trent factory. H&R Daniel was founded by the Spode enameller, Henry Daniel in 1822 and lasted only 24 years, but was known for the quality of its painted wares.

The rare Luftwaffe wristwatch was built to the highest chronographic standards

Tennants, Leyburn

Cuttlestones, Penkridge A slightly tattered 1960s Beatles-themed pop-art lamp discovered in a house clearance, hit all the right notes when it trounced its pre-sale estimate of £100£150 to sell for £950 at the Staffordshire auction house. Head auctioneer, Ben Ben Gamble, said: “These Gamble with the Beatles lamp items were originally mass that sold for produced for the teen market. However, just shy of their low perceived value at the time means £1,000 they were also seen as being pretty disposable – as fans outgrew their teenage bedrooms and trends changed, many of these items would simply have been discarded.” The lamp sparked interest from global collectors on the internet.

Noonans, Mayfair A rare Harold II penny, dated 1066 and struck in Hastings, more than trebled its low pre-sale estimate of £6,000 when it fetched £20,000 at the London auction house’s recent sale. While Harold II coins are reasonably common, those minted in Hastings – where Harold met his death in the famous battle – are much rarer. Noonans’ coin specialist, Tim Wilkes, said: “The condition and the quality of the king’s portrait as well as the provenance, which can be traced back as far as 1885 when it was part of the famous Montagu Collection, resulted in the coin fetching more than its estimate.”

Harold II pennies struck in Hastings, the place of his death, are rare

A rare WWII German Luftwaffe wristwatch, known as a B-Uhr, expected to make £300-£400, sold for £1,700 at the North Yorkshire auction house. B-Uhr stands for Beobachtungs-uhren, which translates as observation watch, ensuring the timepieces were tested to the highest chronometer standards for precise timekeeping. They were made by five makers (A. Lange & Söhne; Wempe; Walter Storz (Stowa); and IWC; with the recently-sold watch by Lacher & Company (Laco). Together the firms manufactured just 13,500 watches so, with war losses, they are rare finds today. At the same sale an Egyptian revival brooch depicting a pharaoh with a carved hardstone face and wings, enamelled in navy, light blue, red and white, sold for £1,500, beating its presale estimate of £300-£500.

Martel Maides Auctions, St Peter Port A “lost” painting by John Constable (1776-1837) found hanging on the wall of a terrace house in Guernsey sold at the Guernsey auctioneer’s recent sale for £200,000 – almost double the guide price. The The oil on canvas sketch, thought to have painting is of the been done in situ in 1814, shows the rear of rear of Willy Lott’s cottage which Willy Lott’s house, which appears in Constable’s appears in his 1821 masterpiece The Hay Wain. famous The After fierce bidding, the painting was bought Haywain by an anonymous private collector based on the island. The whereabouts of the sketch was unknown for 44 years, its location last recorded in 1979 when it appeared in an Italian scholarly publication listing Constable’s works. The auction house’s painting specialist, Jonathan Voak, said: “The painting came from an old terrace house in Guernsey. It was first seen by a member of our team hanging in a dark corner of the dining room.” ANTIQUE COLLECTING 13

AUCTION Sales round up Mallams, Cheltenham

The collection of medals sold for £2,800, considerably more than its estimate of £80-£120

A Victorian armchair in the manner of the London maker Jas Shoolbred more than quadrupled its low pre-sale estimate when it sold for £420 at the Gloucestershire auctioneer’s sale. James Shoolbred & Co., also known as Jas Shoolbred, was established in the 1820s as a draper’s shop in Tottenham Court Road. While it began supplying textiles to the furniture trade, by the 1860s, it was manufacturing and selling its own high-quality furniture, even receiving a Royal warrant by the mid-1880s. But the sale’s biggest surprise came when a collection of medals expected to make £80 sold for £2,800. The collection included 19141918 service medals and a Burma 1930-1932 medal. The armchair was in the manner of the London maker Jas Shoolbred

The inkwell was by the well-known silversmiths Omar Ramsden and Alwyn Carr

Kinghams, Moreton-in-Marsh

Sedan chairs from one of the largest known private collections did well at the Gloucestershire auction house’s recent sale. The collection had been amassed by the late Stephen Loft-Simson, a world-renowned specialist on the subject, and included the chair which carried Antiques Roadshow presenter, Fiona Bruce, through the streets of Bath to the Upper Assembly Rooms, where the programme was being filmed. An Avignon sedan chair featuring a marquis’ coronet, dating to c. 1750, sold for just below its low pre-sale estimate when it fetched £1,400. A Westminster black leather Gala sedan chair, c. 1795, featuring its original carved poles sold for the same price. Sedan chairs were introduced into England by Sir Saunders Duncombe (1570-1638) in the 1630s and named after the town of Sedan in France where they were first used.

The Avignon sedan chair featuring a marquis’ coronet dated to c.1750

Dawsons, Maidenhead

Novelty pieces like this mustard pot shaped as an owl did well in the saleroom

An arts and crafts silver inkwell by Omar Ramsden and Alwyn Carr, dated 1909, sold for £2,400 at the Cotswolds auctioneers, beating its pre-sale guide price of £800-£1,200. The wrythen wire cover encased a natural turquoise cabochon, with the piece being stamped Omar. Ramsden. et. Alwyn. Carr. Me. Fecerunt (Omar Ramsden and Alwyn Carr Made Me). Kinghams’ associate director, Matthew Lafite, said: “Arts and crafts and novelty silver items were among the most sought-after lots.” At the same sale a Victorian silver novelty mustard pot in the shape of an owl, with red glass eyes, sold for £1,300, beating its pre-sale estimate of £300-£500.

14 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Chorley’s Prinknash Abbey Park

The black leather Westminster sedan chair sold for £1,400

A 1930s diamond flower brooch made by Cartier and including a rare Kashmir sapphire sold for £340,000, beating its pre-sale guide price of £80,000-£100,000 at the Berkshire auctioneer’s recent jewellery sale. Designed as a single bloom of cherry blossom, the piece has a rare seven-carat Kashmir sapphire at the centre of old-cut diamonds and is signed Cartier London. The colour intensity and quality of Kashmir sapphires, discovered in 1881 after a landslide in the Padar region of the north-western Himalayas, make them one of the most soughtafter gems in the world. At the time of the brooch’s making Cartier was one of the most formidable gemstone authorities in the world, making it no surprise it had access to a sapphire of the brooch’s calibre.

The Cartier brooch features rare and highly-prized Kashmir sapphire

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Empire furniture

THE EMPIRE STRIKES BACK

With the blockbuster film Napoleon set to hit screens this month, Antique Collecting looks at the influence the legendary French emperor had on furniture styles of the day

16 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

he French Revolution of 1789 was one of the most climactic events in the country’s history, not only did it bring down the monarchy and the ancien régime — and resulted in the beheading of Louis XVI and his wife, Marie Antoinette — it paved the way for Napoleon and his new empire, with startling new iconography and new decorative arts. The design of French furniture can be split into two large movements: before the French Revolution (which observed a period of extravagant style) and after the Revolution (which saw the rise of the more austere, neoclassical designs). This was due, in no small part, to the closure of many cabinetmaking workshops during the Revolution which had driven many aristocrats into exile, ensuring the demand for luxury goods all but dried up. At the same time, the suppression of the French Corporation des Menuisiers, or Guild of Joiners and Cabinet-makers, in 1791 meant its former members were free to set up workshops on their own. By 1795 orders were once more coming in to the country’s ébéniste (furniture makers).

The Directoire This was the period of the Directoire, when five directors held executive power over France, which lasted from 1795 to when Napoleon took power in 1799. Post revolution, the country was still in turmoil with its sombre mood reflected in a rejection of the greater excesses of the ancien régime in favour of a new elegance and simplicity. A style still popular among collectors today. There were practical considerations also. With France battling a number of wars against foreign coalitions, there was a shortage of fine wood, meaning ornamentation was discreet. Marquetry was almost totally absent due to economic restraints. Bronze fittings became rare. Most furniture from the period was made of solid wood: elm, walnut, fruitwood, or beech, and painted pieces, usually made of beech. Under the Directoire, decorative motifs not only included symbols of the revolution such as the Phyragian cap, the lictor’s fasces, pikes, oak leaves, clasped hands,

Opposite page

Washstand (or saut de lit), 1800–1814, attributed to Charles Percier French, with gilt bronze mounts by MartinGuillaume Biennais. The saut-de-lit was shaped like a classical tripod and equipped with a basin, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Above left Daybed (lit de repos) FrançoisHonoré-Georges Jacob-Desmalter. The sphinx-shaped arms suggest a date soon after Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign, it bears the inventory mark of the Château de Neuilly, where two of Napoleon’s sisters lived, image Getty Open Content Above right François-

THE RECAMIER The most famous furniture of the Directoire came from the salon of Madame Récamier whose wealthy banker husband was one of Napoloen’s financial backers. Visitors flocked to their house at L’Abbaye-aux-Bois to see its new, modern style and marvel at her mahogany bed deorated with ormolus and bronze swans. But it was her famous daybed (which still bears her name), or lit de repos, for which she became best known. Likely the work of Jacob Frères and made around 1798, the front legs are the shape of baluster and the feet behind made according to Etruscan style. cockades and cockerels but also urns and amphorae, arrows, sirens and gryphons drawn from antiquity. They also included sphinges (a sphinx with a woman’s head) along with classical figures of Fame and Dawn used to represent the dawn of a new ear.

Egyptian influences

In 1798 – a year before he effectively overthrew the Directoire and became First Consul – Napoleon was already one of the most famous men in France. His victorious Egyptian campaign made him a national hero and, fuelled by archaeological discoveries described by Bottom right Josephine’s Baron Dominique Vivant Denon (1747–1825) in his 1802 apartment in the book, Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Égypte pendant Château de Malmaison, image public domain les campagnes du Général Bonaparte, kick-started French Egyptmania. The worlds of fashion and applied arts took up the theme with motifs including sphinxes, winged lions, lotus blossoms, caryatids and scarabs soon becoming the predominant themes of Empire decoration. Louis Dejuinne (17861844) the salon of Madame Recamier at the Abbaye-aux-Bois, image public domain

‘Post revolution, the country was still in turmoil with its sombre mood reflected in a rejection of the greater excesses of the ancien regime in favour of a new elegance and simplicity’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 17

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Empire furniture

INFLUENCE OF JOSÉPHINE Four years before he took power in 1799, while still Commander of the Interior, Napoleon became romantically involved with Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), with the couple marrying in 1796. The post-revolution nouveau riches, who set the fashionable trends, looked to Joséphine for inspiration. While Napoleon was fighting in Egypt Joséphine bought the manor house Château de Malmaison seven miles west of Paris, taking on Charles Percier (1764-1838) and Pierre-FrançoisLeonard (1762-1853) to renovate it in a blend of neo-classical and Egyptian forms and motifs that became known as the Empire style. One enduring theme was her love of swans, depictions of which decorate the chair arms, curtains, carpets, and porcelain of the state rooms. Joséphine was also fascinated by the prevalent style (both in France and the UK) of chinoiserie, an ornamental style that drew inspiration from Chinese art and design. Accordingly, motifs such as pagodas, bamboo decoration and oriental patterns, could also be found in her decor.

Fruit or flower basket (corbeille aux cygnes), Sèvres Manufactory, designed 1812, manufactured 1823, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

18 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Right Auguste Garneray

(1785-1824) the music room at Chateau de la Malmaison in 1812. The chair on the left bearing the maker’s mark of Jacob Frères, the stamp used by the brothers Georges II (1768-1803) and François-Honoré Jacob (1770-1841) from 1796-1803, image public domain Below right Designs

from Percier and Fontaine’s Recueil de Decorations Intérieures, 1802, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Bottom right Furniture

attributed to FrançoisHonoré-Georges JacobDesmalter (1770-1841) including gilt bronze mounts in the form of rosettes, strands of bellflowers and leaves, image Getty Open Content

The Empire style When he crowned himself Emperor Napoleon I at Notre Dame de Paris on December 2 ,1804, having gained his position through political and military might, Napoleon set about cementing his cult of personailty. From the start of his reign he realised the importance of symbols and propaganda. His gold laurel leaf crown echoed Roman rulers and the bee, a symbol of the ancient Merovingians, replaced the fleur-de-lis on imperial tapestries. He was quick to use artists, designers and architects to promote and legitimise the new regime. He also strove to underline important parallels between himself and the revered emperors of ancient Rome. Symbols from Egypt and Greece, and those borrowed from the military and victory fields (including helmets, trophies, swords, winged figures), started to give way to the imperial emblems such as eagles. Antique forms and ornament, already seen in the Louis XVI style, blended with Napoleon’s imperial symbols, which as well as the bee, included the letter “N” surrounded by a laurel wreath, stars and exotic hieroglyphic motifs.

Age of Empire With the country’s previous nobility dead, or exiled, the new ruling elite, who owed their position to the new emperor, slavishly followed his stylistic lead. The neo-classical period of the late 18th century had already revived interest in the classical dynasties, and Napoleon made use of this popularity by incorporating their most important characteristics and symbols in the furniture and decorations of the new Empire style, emulating opulence of the ancien régime. Furniture was crafted from the finest materials available, including mahogany, walnut, and rosewood, which were commonly used for the woodwork, while marble, particularly in shades of black or white, adorned table and cabinet tops. Gilt bronze, or ormolu, was frequently used for decorative mounts.

New designs New styles became popular, including a psyché mirror, a type of cheval looking glass named after the heroine in La Fontaine’s novel Les Amours de Psyché, who was reputed to have looked at a full-length reflection of herself. One such was made for Empress Marie-Louise (Napoleon’s second wife) in 1810. Empire tables also took on a whole new significance, with the gueridon – a small table supported by one or more columns, often in the shape of mythological figures – becoming all the rage. Many designs incorporated a bouillotte lamp (for games of bouillotte or rummy).

Above Desk chair

(fauteuil de cabinet) French 1804–1814, richly decorated with gilt bronze, the chair not only rotates but also has castors underneath the legs to move it around with ease. Napoleon used a similar chair at the Tuileries Palace, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Above right Pierre

Philippe Thomire (1751–1843), pair of candelabra in gilt bronze, Winged Victories, symbols of military triumph, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Left François-

Honoré-Georges Jacob-Desmalter (17701841), Cheval glass (psyché), c. 1810–1814, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Below left Jean Hauré (fl. 1774-1796) one of 24 X-shaped folding stools, from a furniture suite, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

EMPIRE BRONZES

Winged Victories, symbols of military triumph, were a staple of Napoleonic decoration. From the 18th century onwards, gilt bronzes were widely available to be used in household furnishings, ornamental objects and decorative mounts for furniture. Among the most famous exponent of the craft during the Napoleonic period was PierrePhilippe Thomire (1751–1843). Although trained as a sculptor, Thomire decided to follow his father into the potentially more lucrative profession of bronze caster. He began his career in the reign of Louis XVI and, from 1790, working closely with the German-born ébéniste Guillaume Beneman (1750-1811), becoming the main supplier of bronzes for royal households. Under the First Empire, Thomire purchased the fashionable premises of the marchand-mercier Martin-Éloi Lignereux, for whom he had provided furnishing bronzes in rue Taitbout, Paris. In 1806 Thomire won a gold medal at the Exposition Publique des Produits de l’Industrie, the first time a bronzier was allowed to take part. By 1809 his workshop included 700 workers. In the example above the Hellenistic winged figures of Nike or Victory echo Napoleon’s military triumphs. Their arms are upraised and supporting floral wreaths from which branch 10 candle sockets decorated with fluting, acanthus leaves, and spirals. Similar candelabra were designed by Charles Percier (1764–1838) for the boudoir of Empress Josephine at the Château de Saint-Cloud, their presence and maker identified in the 1805 and 1807 inventories. The firm of Thomire et Cie continued to operate into the Second Empire, producing bronze replicas and reproduction sculptures.

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 19

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Empire furniture Left Charles-Honoré

Lannuier (1779-1819) card table, 1817, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Right François-

Honoré-Georges JacobDesmalter (1770-1841) throne for Napoleon to preside over the Senate, 1804, the elbow-rests are in the shape of winged sphinxes, image public domain Below right Evening

7 of the best Empire ébénistes

dress in the empire style, French, 1804– 1805, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

1 Georges Jacob (1739-1814) Jacob was one of the most influential French furniture makers of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, known for his expertise in producing chairs and sofas with designs featuring classical motifs.

2. Pierre-Benoît Marcion (1741-1816) Marcion’s “Aux Egyptians” workshop operated in Paris between 1798 and 1817. His work often combined classical motifs with neo-classical design elements.

3 Charles-Honoré Lannuier (1779-1819) Lannuier was a French-born cabinetmaker who emigrated to the US in the early 19th century. He is known for producing fine Empire-style furniture in America, influenced by the French Empire style.

4 Bernard Molitor (1755-1833) Bernard Molitor was an Austrian-born cabinetmaker who worked in France during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. He was known for creating furniture that blended French and Austrian styles, often featuring rich wood veneers and classical motifs.

5 Jacob-Desmalter et Cie A prominent Empire furniture-making firm, run by Georges Jacob’s son, François-Honoré-Georges JacobDesmalter (1770-1841), and later his brother, Alphonse (1799-1870). They produced a range of furniture in the Empire style, including pieces for the royal family.

6 Charles Percier (1764-1838) and PierreFrançois-Léonard Fontaine (1762-1853) While not primarily furniture makers, as architects to the court of Napoleon, both played a pivotal role in popularising the Empire style in the renovating of royal residences. They collaborated on the influential 1812 publication Recueil de Décorations Intérieures (Collection of Interior Decorations), which showcased designs for furniture and interior decor in the Empire style.

20 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

EMPIRE-STYLE DRESSES In fashion, flowing classical Greek and Roman designs became popular in a style which still bears the name “empire” today. Women’s dresses resembled columns, tight under the bust, with the skirt’s fullness carried to the back and lengthened into a train. Initially made from lightweight fabrics like muslin, from the outset Napoleon was aware of the power of luxury as a political instrument, for fabrics as much as the other decorative arts. When he proclaimed himself emperor, pomp and circumstance and fine material returned. Eager to revive the French textile industry, Napoloeon was said to have sealed off fireplaces in the Tuileries to encourage the wearing of velvet instead of muslin.

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THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Armand-Albert Rateau and Jeanne Lanvin

FASHION FORWARD In two years’ time it will be 100 years since the Paris exhibition which spawned the art deco movement. Author Alastair Duncan considers one of the era’s most important French designers and his influential client base

ver since its early 20th-century origins, art deco has fascinated and amused socialites, collectors and designers. Referred to at the time as simply moderne, the style largely took shape around a clientele of French fashion industry luminaries and wealthy international collectors. Art historians christened it during a second wave in the ’60s, while a third generation of aficionados entered the auction houses of the ’80s and ’90s, ready to invest in the most exquisite examples. In its first incarnation art deco’s devotees were almost exclusively luminaries in the French fashion industry and, in the main, couturiers, namely: Jacques Doucet, Jeanne Tachard, Suzanne Talbot, Madame Agnes, Madeleine Vionnet and Jeanne Lanvin.

Right Armand-Albert

Rateau (1882-1938) one of a pair of decorative lacquered panels realised in 1925 for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The second version of a screen panel conceived for the Duchess of Alba’s Liria Palace in Madrid in 1922. On offer at this month’s FAB Paris, Galerie AnneSophie Duval, France, photo Maxime Riché Left Furnishings by

Armand-Albert Rateau (1882-1938) for the Duchess of Alba’s Liria Palace in Madrid from the Arnold Seligman gallery in Paris, 1925

For them, furnishing their residences in the years around 1910 meant visiting either the annual Paris salons or the local department stores, of which there were several around the capital, including Le Printemps, La Maitrise, Pomone, Studium and au Boucheron. All of them offered a predictable selection of newly-manufactured furnishings, stylistically comprised of a hodgepodge of decorative Victorian clutter and art nouveau’s retreating preoccupation with the “cult of nature”. Both of these styles competed in the furniture market against an eclectic mix of Beaux-Arts neo-classical models, termed disparagingly as “historicism” or tous les Louis due to their lack of innovative design.

New style A modern style was needed to embody this interregnum moment in the new century, which saw art increasingly allying itself with the machine, as an object’s ornamentation became subservient to its function. So, into the vacuum stepped the pioneer furniture designers of the coming machine age. The question arises why the majority of just one profession gravitated towards modernist design, while other wealthy French homeowners – in businesses such as banking, real estate and the stock market – did not. Certainly, interiors of residences of wealthy citizens from other walks of life, including Lord Rothermere, and the industrialist Jean- Henri Labourdelle-Debacker (which were illustrated sporadically in magazines such as L’Illustration and Art et Decoration), show that while they possessed one or two pieces of modern furniture, they were not systemic collectors of such. One power house at the centre of the movement was the fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin and the designer Armand-Albert Rateau.

24 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Armand-Albert Rateau Born in 1882, Armand-Albert Rateau attended the École Boulle, Paris’ prestigious technical school for cabinetmaking and related crafts. He went on to find employment with Georges Hoentschel, the noted decorator and ceramicist whose works at the time were on display at the 1900 Exposition Internationale. Five years later, Rateau accepted the directorship of La Maison Alavoine, a respected local decorating studio specialising in period-revival-style home furnishings. This proved a smart career move as it gave him access to the firm’s long-standing moneyed clientele both in and around Paris and overseas. During these years he visited several pre-Christian archeological sites around the Mediterranean, including those from the Greco-Roman, Etruscan and Roman ages, plus the necropolises of Pompeii and Herculaneum. His experiences exerted a significant influence on his own evolving decorative style which was a unique blend of antiquity and modernism.

Important clients Rateau remained with Alavoine until the advent of WWI, at which point he enlisted in the military. Demobilised four years later, he returned briefly to his job, but resigned in 1919 to form his own company in a townhouse on the rue Berthier in the city’s 17th arrondissement, using the

Design of the Arpège bottle

Above Armand-Albert

Rateau (1882-1938) a two-panel screen in lacquered wood for his residence at 17 Quai Conti, Paris Above right Rateau

In 1927, Jeanne Lanvin commissioned André Fraysse and Paul Vacher to create the perfume Arpège to celebrate the 30th birthday of her beloved daughter Marguerite. The bottle design was entrusted to Armand-Albert Rateau who came up with the idea of a striking globe-like, black, glass shape with a gold cap. The bottle was decorated with a drawing by the French illustrator and designer Paul Iribe (1883-1935) depicting Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter as a child. It went on to become the emblem of the couture house.

designed the famous Lanvin perfume bottle Right A second

bathroom in one of the Blumenthal’s French residences Left Armand-Albert

Rateau (1882-1938) one of a pair of decorative lacquered panels realised in 1925 for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. It is the second version of a screen panel conceived for the Duchess of Alba’s Liria Palace in Madrid in 1922. On offer at this month’s FAB Paris, Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval, France, photo Maxime Riché

Ateliers Neuilly-Levallois (located in Levallois on the outskirts of the city) to manufacture his furnishings. During the years 1919–22, Rateau designed many of his most inspired creations for a select group of elite clients. The first of whom were the Blumenthals of New York, who proved to be typical customers, in other words, immeasurably wealthy, successful, and socially prominent. Commissions from the Duchess of Albany soon followed. He also designed for the Crillon on the Place de la Concorde and an apartment for the Countess Beaurepaire on the blvd St. Germain.

Below right The

swimming pool in the Blumenthals’ townhouse at 50 E70th Street, c/r Park Avenue, Manhattan, c.1920. Photo Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.

‘When Lanvin entered into a business partnership with Rateau it was an indication of the bond at the time between the avant-garde in the Parisian fashion industry and that in modern interior design’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 25

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Armand-Albert Rateau and Jeanne Lanvin Left Armand-Albert

Rateau (1882-1938) a pair of fish-scale open armchairs (model 1793) in patinated bronze, the seats originally upholstered in ocelot, c.1919–1920 Right Jeanne Lanvin

sketch of a Lanvin evening gown © Patrimoine Lanvin, Paris Below left Armand-

Rateau’s style Rateau’s style was unlike anything produced by any of his contemporaries. None of the period’s standard grammar of decorative ornaments is evident. The sharply angular or elongated geometric stylisations that adorned most of the items displayed at the Paris Salons – which we now broadly define as “art deco”– were determinedly absent. Yet Rateau’s motifs do have a distinctly 1920s look. A delightful range of flora and plants, such as the marguerite, acanthus and palm tree, were each rendered in his highly personalised style. The same distinction applies to his zoological creations, including butterflies, fish, gazelles and pheasants. All of them, while evoking the distant past, convey an indisputably modern charm and whimsy under his hand.

Limited editions Rateau’s incorporation of the same models in multiple commissions raises two questions. First, how many examples of each did he produce? And second, did clients know (or care) that the furniture he provided for their interiors may not have been uniquely for them? It seems he produced many designs in limited editions, some in editions of three, four or five. The cost benefits that accrued to him in reproducing existing models are obvious. His clients could also take comfort and pride in the fact that other customers of international stature

26 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Albert Rateau (18821938) Faisans occasional table, patinated bronze with marble, c.1920– 1922. Photo Arnaud Carpentier, Galerie Vallois Paris

possessed the same model. Also, Rateau often placed examples of his finest designs in his own Paris residences – first on the rue Berthier and, from 1922, at 17 Quai de Conti – which would perhaps have been interpreted as further proof of their desirability. In addition, some models were modified to meet the specific needs of the commission at hand, which added variety and, therefore, individuality to his repertoire. In attempting to define Rateau’s style one might say it was something of a paradox: he was a neo-classical modernist. He died in Paris in 1938.

Fashion great In the early 1920s, Rateau was commissioned to design the private mansion of the fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin, located at 16 rue Barbet-de-Jouy in Paris. Born in 1867 in Brittany, the eldest of 11 children, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin began her career in the fashion industry as an apprentice milliner at age 16, instructed at some early point by Suzanne Talbot. She later opened a small millinery workshop at 16 rue Boissy-d’Anglas in the 8th arrondissement. This was the start of what would become the longest-running fashion house business in the world. In 1893, Lanvin moved to larger premises at 22 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré. She added dressmaking to her repertoire in 1909, in light of increasing demand from her clients that she open a young womenswear department. Lanvin then became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, the prerequisite for entering the world of French haute couture. Her mother-and-daughter garments and waisted robes de style received glowing reviews in the press.

Right The braderie

brings millions of visitors to the northern French city

ART DECO STYLE Works shown at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes soon sparked the name “art deco” – essentially a catch-all label for all decorative arts created between the first and second world wars. The movement was born in part after the commercial failure of art nouveau and concern over the advances being made by Germany at the start of the 20th century. French designers were keen to re-establish their dominance in the field of luxury designs earned in the 18th century. The primary requirement for inclusion into the exposition was that a work had to be modern and not copy any historical style.

Prevailing motifs

Soon, her staff included embroiderers, seamstresses and tailors, as her business expanded from made-to-wear apparel to cosmetics, bridal-wear, lingerie, sportswear, hosiery and furs. Briefly married to an Italian nobleman, with whom she had a daughter, Marguerite di Pietro, Lanvin’s second husband was journalist Xavier Melet.

Partnership with Rateau When Lanvin entered into a business partnership with Rateau it was an indication of the bond at the time between the avant-garde in the Parisian fashion industry and that in modern interior design. The first project for the resulting subsidiary company, Lanvin Decoration, was to deck out the auditorium of the Théâtre Daunou, a small playhouse managed by the actress Jane Renouardt. The next year, Lanvin retained Rateau to redesign the interior of the hôtel particulier she had bought in 1920, at 16 rue Barbet-du-Jouy (a swanky street on the Left Bank). A major commission for Rateau, this included refurbishing the three principal rooms: the bedroom, boudoir and bathroom. Clearly pleased with his skills as a designer-ensemblier, Lanvin made Rateau the manager of Lanvin Sport as well as enlisting him to decorate her boutiques and her country villa in Deauville. In 1965, after Lanvin’s residence was scheduled for demolition, her son-in-law, Prince Louis de Polignac, donated its contents to the city’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which reinstalled the Rateau interiors in their entirety with Lanvin blue silk wall coverings.

Above One of Rateau’s

ensembles at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1926 Below right Clément

Rousseau (1872-1950) a pair of armoires in palmwood veneered in galuchat and motherof-pearl, 1920s. Photo Arnaud Carpentier – Galerie Vallois Paris

The most popular motifs included the human figure, animals, flowers and plants; while abstract geometric decoration was also prevalent. This was also the machine age with machines and new modes of transport such as cars and railways taking centre stage. Mass-produced functional objects – everything from clocks and ashtrays to cars and buildings – became works of art. Exoticism played an important role, even by 1909, when the Russian impresario Sergei Diaghilev arrived in Paris with his dance troupe, the Ballets Russes. The company’s productions, characterised by their Orientalist sets and flamboyant costumes, became instantly popular among the fashionable. Likewise, Fauvism (as seen in the paintings of Henri Matisse and André Derain) and Cubism (Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque) were among the many fine-arts movements that played an important role in the development of the art deco style which prevailed until the start of WWII.

Alastair Duncan is the author of The Art Deco Style Great Designers & Collectors, published by ACC Art Books, from which this article is adapted, Subscribers can save 35 percent on the cover price of £75, paying just £48.75 plus £7 p&p, email uksales@accartbooks.com or call 01394 389950. ANTIQUE COLLECTING 27

OUT & ABOUT Paris

28 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

BERET GOOD Designer and illustrator Marin Montagut, the author of a new book on French flea markets and ateliers, reveals his top seven brocantes

y parents were antique dealers and my grandmother was an artist, so I grew up surrounded by a multitude of objects of all kinds. As soon as I could walk, my parents began taking me to antique shops, flea markets and auction houses. So, this taste for collecting is a family affair that has been passed down from generation to generation. In fact, many of my collections are connected to happy childhood memories. When it comes to collecting, I have a passion for artists’ palettes which have the power to take me back in time to my grandmother’s house, where I would spend hours watching her paint, fascinated by the colours and patterns that seemed to spring from her hands. Just looking at the palettes conjures up a multitude of abstract paintings, which bloom from the dappled paint on their surfaces. Another of my favourite collections consists of plaster casts that find their way into my home, where they recreate the atmosphere of the artists’ studios. I like to pose them on stands and allow the light to play with their textured contours.

Wunderkammer passion Finding objects endowed with soul is a passion that drives me every day. When I go antiquing, I never approach it with a preconceived idea in mind. I rely on coincidence and luck. The unexpected curiosity and the joy of finding something different is what I look forward to on days when I head out in search of new gems to showcase in my house. I want to reinvent the spirit of what the Germans call the wunderkammer, literally, “wonder room.” These rooms, which held collections of rare and unusual objects, were found in the castles and aristocratic homes of central Europe in the 16th century. My wonders may be more modest, but they have the power to transport and inspire me. These are my favourite hunting grounds to find them.

Left Marin Montagut,

who collects artists’ palettes, photo © Pierre Musellec Right The Saint-Ouen

puces are accessible by public transport Below right After the

Grande Braderie de Lille, the Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is one of the biggest antiques market in France

Getting there 1 Garibaldi Metro (line 13), cross the square by the church, to arrive at rue des Rosiers, turn right, the puces are 700 metres away. 2 Metro Porte de Clignancourt (line 4), Cross boulevard Ney onto boulevard Ornano, pass under the ring road to reach the corner of Vernaison and Malassis markets. 3 Metro Porte de Saint-Ouen (line 13), follow the ring road on the Saint-Ouen side towards the Porte de Clignancourt until “la Boule”, you are at the flea market. 4 Saint-Ouen Metro (line 14) after which it is a 10-minute walk or take the bus 173 for two stations. seven hectares make up the puces, which consist of 12 covered markets (Antica, Biron, Cambo, Dauphine, l’Entrepôt, Jules-Vallès, Malassis, le Passage, Paul Bert and Serpette, l’Usine and Vernaison) and five streets (Rue Jules Vallès, Rue Lecuyer, Rue Paul Bert, Rue des Rosiers and Impasse Simon). Collectors will encounter statues from antiquity to the present day, furniture from every era, carpets and tapestries and paintings with items on offer to suit every budget. According to the author André Breton, you don’t find objects here, they find you. Among the markets, my two favourites are the Paul Bert and Vernaison. The event takes place every Friday morning (8am-midday) Saturday, Sunday and Monday (10-6pm).

1 The Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen Established on the outskirts of Paris, the Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is the oldest and largest of its kind in the world. From the early 12th century, crowds began flocking to the area which later became the fashionable haunt of artists and writers such as Alberto Giacometti and Colette. Gradually, new markets mushroomed up on the site, each one drawing a different kind of customer. Today,

‘Today, seven hectares make up the entire Marché aux Puces, which currently consists of 12 covered markets’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 29

OUT & ABOUT Paris

5 The Porte de Vanves flea market in Paris.

2 The Grande Réderie, Amiens The best market in the north of France which regularly attracts more than 2,000 stallhholders both amateur and professional from all over France and beyond. The treasure hunt starts early (from 4 or 5am) and includes up to 80,000 collectors from all over the world. It takes place on the last Sunday in April (the next one being on April 24, 2024) and every first Sunday in October.

3 The Puces du Canal in Lyon Taking place in Villeurbanne on the outskirts of Lyon, alongside the Jonage Canal, strolling the puce on a Sunday is de rigueur for the fashionable Lyonnais. Taking place year round, the market boasts some 400 exhibitors drawing in up to 8,000 visitors every week. If you love objects that have history, let yourself be tempted by the myriad of delights on offer. The fair is open between 7am and 1pm Thursday to Saturday and 7am to 3pm on Sunday.

4 Foire de l’Isle sur la Sorgue Located 12 miles east of Avignon, between Carpentras and Cavaillon, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue hosts a flea market twice a year in spring (usually Easter weekend) and August. 450 exhibitors flock to the town joining its existing permanent antique dealers and second hand shops, making it one of the biggest antiques and second hand fairs in Europe. In addition to the flea market a trip offers visitors the chance to shop under sunny skies in one of Provence’s prettiest towns. The selection of objects on offer, from Provençal boutis and ceramics to antique furniture, is broad, although, be warned, prices can be eye-wateringly steep. The next event is April 2024, date tbc.

30 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Above The northern

French town of Amiens welcomes bargain hunters from across the globe Above right Bargains

I have heard that the merchants from the Saint-Ouen flea market come to Vanves to get the best bargains. Located in the south of the 14th arrondissement of Paris on avenue Marc Sangnier and avenue Georges Lafenstre, just between the Porte de Vanves and the tramway station Didot, it is the only flea market in the centre of the capital. This market is lesser known to both tourists and Parisians so it is still possible to find treasures. Again, the early bird is best placed to bag a bargain. The action starts at 7am, every Saturday and Sunday, with many vendors packing up at lunchtime.

from the market in Lyon which takes place on the outskirts of the town Below left Isle-sur-laSorgue boasts a number of permanent antique dealers and second hand shops Right The flea market is

the only one to take place in the centre of Paris, rather than outskirts, of the city Below right With its

major monuments and medieval streets, the town is well worth a visit in its own right

6 The Villeneuve-lès-Avignon flea market This is one of my favourite flea markets in Provence. It takes place every Saturday morning just across the river Rhone from Avignon itself, linked by the famous bridge, in the charming village of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. I love coming here whenever I go down south for a few days to hunt for Provençal treasures that you can’t find anywhere else. Early birds are rewarded with vendors opening their pitches from 6am (until 3pm). With the town’s six major monuments, including Saint-André Fort, Philippe Le Bel Tower and Saint-André Abbey, and its medieval streets, the town is well worth a visit in its own right.

7 The Grande Braderie, Lille This has to be the most highly-anticipated flea market of the year, meaning would-be visitors are advised to reserve accommodation a year in advance if they want to seek out treasures at the Lille flea market. Just an hour outside of Paris by TGV, every first weekend in September, the town becomes the worldwide capital of flea markets and bargain hunters, attracting some two million visitors. It hosts around 10,000 professional and private exhibitors hawking their wares over 62 miles of streets. Note: next year’s braderie is set to take place on September 14-15, after the Paris Olympics.

Right The braderie

brings millions of visitors to the northern French city

Marin Montagut’s book Extraordinary Collections: French Interiors, Flea Markets, Ateliers is published by Flammarion price £35.

FAB PARIS

Why not coincide a visit to France with a trip to one of the country’s foremost antiques fairs? A year after its inaugural event, the Fine Arts la Biennale (FAB) Paris returns this month. Previously known as Fine Arts Paris and La Biennale, the redubbed event, from November 22-26, welcomes 110 of the world’s leading galleries, including the UK’s Brun Fine Art and Whitford Fine Art. Described as a unique showcase of culture, savoir-faire and heritage, FAB Paris takes place at the Grand Palais Ephémère, a temporary exhibition hall in the Champ de Mars. Its president, Louis de Bayser, said: “In its second year, FAB Paris continues to grow, with new categories, including design, and new galleries in disciplines such as tribal arts, antiquities and Asian art.” In all the event boasts a total of 20 collecting genres, from ceramics to Himalayan art. It will also host a programme of events, including visits to the Centre Pompidou, Musée de l’Armée-Invalides and Van Cleef & Arpels’ School of Jewellery Art.

Fair highlights Its predecessor – the Biennale des Antiquaires and Fine Arts Paris – long epitomised French luxury and style. The new fair continues the tradition with furniture and decorative arts of historical importance, including a clock by Queen Marie-Antoinette’s favourite clockmaker Robert Robin (1741-1799) – one of the finest clockmakers of 18th-century France. In 1767, he became a maître by decree, exempting him from an apprenticeship, no doubt due to the fact he had already displayed exceptional talent. In 1794, he was made clockmaker to the Republic and, in 1796, to the Directoire. The fair will also showcase a number of pieces formerly in the collections of the celebrated fashion designers Hubert de Givenchy and Karl Lagerfeld, the

Above Robert Robin

(1741-1799) Queen Marie-Antoinette’s favourite clockmaker, a Directoire gilt and patinated bronze rectangular alcove clock, c. 1795, on offer from Pascal Izarn, France

latter of whom played an important role in the Biennale des Antiquaires when he reimagined the interior of the Grand Palais for its 26th edition. The London dealer Benjamin Proust will offer a modernist head by the avant-garde sculptor Elie Nadelman (1882-1946), which was bought by the German-born designer at the 2006 Biennale and remained in Lagerfeld’s collection until his death. For more on French Empire furniture turn to page 16.

Above right Attributed

to Martin Carlin (17301785) commode, Paris, Transition period, c. 1770, it is on offer from Steinitz, France Right Formerly in the

collection of Hubert de Givenchy, a pair of Louis XVI large gilt bronzemounted Serpentine, covered vases, c. 1785, on offer from Pascal Izarn, France

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 31

EXPERT COMMENT David Harvey

Gillows’ archive

Waxing lyrical A newly-acquired Pembroke table by Gillows allowed David Harvey to reminisce on a 50-year love affair with the famous furniture maker

ver the years, like most antique dealers, I have fallen in love with many of the countless pieces I have handled. However, it was the acquisition of a Regency Pembroke table (above) that reminded me of a very special relationship with Gillows of Lancaster that started many years ago. It all began 50 years earlier, when my father was in charge of the business and we received a phone call from a recently-retired circus proprietor called Billy, who was in the habit of collecting stock from every town the fairground visited. He told us he had come across something he had never seen before and so my father and I crossed The Solent to see him before buying a a most unusual type of billiards table.

32 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Back in 1973 I was given the task of researching it, aided by a label in one of the drawers for Gillows and Taylor of Oxford Street in London. I then turned to the Gillows’ archives, the largest and most comprehensive cabinetmaker’s records in the world. They consist mainly of the firm’s Lancaster records, but a few London notations have also survived. The archive recorded that, in 1769, after working as a journeyman for his uncle, Robert Gillow, Thomas Gillow (1736-1779), moved to London and entered a partnership with William Taylor – another Gillows apprentice. And so Gillows and Taylor of Oxford Street was founded in 1769. The archive further revealed our table was a ‘Trou Madame’ – a bagatelle version of billiards which, from 1770 to 1900, was as popular in the UK as more conventional billiards. After showing it at the venerable Chelsea Antiques Fair, it was snapped up by the Furniture History Society for its Gillows Collection and is now in the Abbot Hall Gallery, Kendal in Cumbria. I had learnt so much from researching the billiards table it sparked an enduring passion for Gillows.

Private drawers Over the next five decades I went on to be the proud owner of several handsome pieces by the firm which, in comparison to makers such as Chippendale, has rather languished in the shadows. This was certainly the case until 2008 and the publication of Susan Stuart’s much anticipated two-volume Gillows of Lancaster and London 1730-1840, published by the Antique Collectors’ Club. I was delighted to have supplied a number of illustrations

Above The Pembroke

table has all the hallmarks of being by the famous maker Top right The label identified it as by Gillows and Taylor Above right David

tries his hand at Trou Madame Right The Trou Madame

table joined the collection of Abbot Hall Gallery in Kendal

Left The desk contains

Gillows’ trademark hinged covers and private drawers Above Susan Stuart’s

two-volume Gillows of Lancaster and London 1730-1840 put the firm in the spotlight

for both books. Her book highlighted one problem when it comes to Gillows – namely its work is often unsigned, or has changed hands so many times we are left with difficulty of attribution. But, to the trained eye there are little touches, part of what we call a “house style” which make the work of Gillows unmistakeable. For example, we only have to look at a family of library or writing tables with secretaire drawers (above), made in the 1780s, to establish Gillows as the maker. Each has hinged, alphabetically inlaid compartments and what Gillows called “private drawers” (which we would call secret compartments). From the Gillows’ records we discover that “Lettering the covers in the writing drawer” cost the firm a shilling and sixpence.

Above right The records

date the sketch to September 1770 Below right The

Pembroke’s dummy drawers house a secret book compartment

Ingenious table

Mrs Plante’s dressing table

When no stamp is visible we have to turn to the archives to see if it is a Gillows’ piece. It was, once again, tremendous fun to research this beautiful table, which a sketch dates to 1770. The archive showed it was ordered at Gillows’ London shop by Henry Plante of Norfolk Street for his wife. Research showed the couple lived at no. 17 and had been married for some 20 years. Was this an anniversary present or a daughter’s dowry gift? We may never know. The records did show three men in Lancaster worked on it: James Robinson, William Lupton and Bryan Overend. keeping books dust free. It was made in about 1815 and, to prove the point, is stamped on the front edge of the flap “Gillow”. To round everything off, even the brass cups and casters are stamped with the name Cope & Collinson, a firm which dominated the castor industry throughout most of the 19th century. Gillows: game, set and match. David Harvey is the owner of Witney-based W R Harvey & Co. (Antiques) Ltd. For more details go to the website www.wrharvey.com

So to the present, when I was recently offered a little Regency Pembroke table, purportedly by Gillows. It didn’t take many minutes before I realised it had to be the work of the Lancaster firm. The first pointer was the turned and reeded legs. We see them so often in Gillows’ pieces from the first decades of the 19th century, that they were known as a “Gillows’ leg”. Yet when I first joined the company, in 1973, they were wrongly considered as being typically Victorian. But as time went by, and more research was carried out, we see this leg was used by Gillows as early as 1800. The quality of the table’s timbers, largely solid mahogany, is also first rate and typical of Lancaster pieces. There is also a degree of ingenuity involved, also typical of Gillows. When you look at the Pembroke, you may wonder why only one drawer has a knob on it? How do you open the lower drawer? Well, you don’t. Both are dummy drawers and the compartment is, in fact, for

‘I had learnt so much from researching the billiards table it sparked an enduring passion for Gillows of Lancaster’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 33

ANTIQUES UNDER THE HAMMER The Milliner’s workroom

SALEROOM SPOTLIGHT

A treasure trove of antique hats and accessories, put together over 35 years, goes under the hammer in North Yorkshire this month

he sale, dubbed the ‘milliner’s workroom’, includes a dazzling array of feathers, ribbons, trims, amassed by a lady collector whose love of hats began at the age of four. It was in young girlhood, at the knee of her grandmother – an accomplished seamstress and milliner – that she fell in love with hats and textiles. She said: “As a little girl, I sat by grandma’s sewing machine, sorting gloves into pairs and colours, rowed-up hat boxes and polished handbags.”

Above The collection

is housed in its period display cases Above right Millinery

tools comprising a wooden rule with brass sliding insert, scissor cap gauge, wooden hat ‘lifter’, two extending hat stretchers, the lot is expected to make £100£150 Left Assorted early

20th-century millinery feathers in lime green, peach, blue and brown, they have an estimate of £100-£200

34 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Saturdays were taken up with visits to local milliners to try on hats, as well at the haberdashers to buy the coming week’s supply of materials. She continued with pride: “I could wear a hat correctly at the age of four.” By her twenties the hat bug had hit fair and square and “the happiness of hats” inspired her to begin collecting seriously, starting with a 1920s feather driving cap that she found in a bric-a-brac shop. Before long the collector had forged a successful career restoring antique hats some of which went on to appear in films, television and theatre productions, as well as becoming part of prestigious museum collections.

Lucky additions Two strokes of luck helped expand her collection. The first happened when a friend stumbled on the contents of a Parisian milliner’s workshop which had lain untouched for years and included feathers, veils, linings, silk, velvet ribbon and threads dating back decades. Fortunately for her, the collector was bequeathed the entire collection. Her luck continued when a retired Belgian milliner heard of the discovery and offered her the contents of his old workshop, for the price of the shipping. She said: “It was an incredibly happy time when they arrived, so much so, I called my studio the ‘room of a thousand trims’.” The collections included everything needed for making hats and repairing them, as well as including the original materials needed to restore them. The collector said: “You can’t make repairs using modern thread – because it breaks the antique fabrics.” Now retired, and only working on small private projects for herself and special clients, her extraordinary collection is up for sale.

Sale highlights Many of the hats included in the sale date to the start of the 20th century when the cloche hat, a fitted, bell-shaped hat worn over a daring Eton-crop hair style, was all the rage. Generally made of felt, the name deriving for the French word for “bell”. The influence of art deco is easy to see in geometric, zig-zag lines and milliners, like other designers, looking to Egypt, China, Japan and Russia for inspiration. The collection also includes vintage display cabinets as

AUCTION fact file

WHAT: The Milliner’s Workroom: A private collection of antique and vintage hats, millinery accessories and trimmings Where: Tennants Auctioneers, The Auction Centre, Harmby Road, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5SG well as restored hats and antique tools of the trade. Many of When: November 17 Viewing: November these came from the Manchester maker Ellor Bros., which 14-15, 10am-4pm, was established in 1817 initially to make silk top hats but, with the decline in the style at the end of WWI, began to sell November 16, 10am-5pm and more fashionable ladies designs. morning of sale from Much of the collection will be sold in curated lots, 7.30am bringing together a range of nettings, trims and flowers in similar colours, as well as groups of early 20th-century hat pins, boxes and millinery feathers from the same era. Estimates start at £100.

Top left Assorted

millinery flowers in fabric, paper and velvet of various colours and sizes, they have an estimate of £100 -£150 at this month’s sale Above left Early 20th-century peach and brown silk French cloche hat with smocked detailing and original paper label inside, three pairs of ladies gloves and 1920s Bakelite hinged purse. The lot has an estimate of £120-£180 Left Approximately

150 mainly early 20th-century decorative hat pins in various materials. They have an estimate of £100-£200

IN MY OPINION...

We asked Tennants’ costume and textiles specialist, Sarah White, for her sale highlights How important is the collection?

Millinery items of this quality and quantity rarely come to the market today. For anyone interested in costume, millinery and haberdashery, they represent items you would struggle to find in an auction or retail market today, and the modern equivalents are certainly not of the same quality. In fact, the vendor primarily collected them to allow her to restore hats using original threads and embellishments, rather than modern copies.

Do you have a sale highlight?

Not specifically, for me I am in ‘frippery’ heaven. Just seeing the rainbow colours and the detail undertaken to produce a small, embroidered, or bead, appliqué is delightful. Some of the single-feathered hat adornments, with painted and curled decoration, is just as extraordinary and beautiful.

How do the French, UK and Belgian styles differ?

Many of the items still have their original printed or hand-written paper labels, with the majority being French. After the horrors of the WWI this was a stylistic era where “anything went”. I think the French had the edge on design details, possibly due to exceptional haute couture designers like Coco Chanel, Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet, who were pushing the boundaries of female fashion.

Where will interest come from?

The vendor and I would love the collection to go to someone who will get as much enjoyment out of it as she has – either private buyers, milliners, costume designers including film and stage, or modern manufacturers who may be inspired by the designs.

Right Early 20th-century

haberdashery items, including rolls of grosgrain and silk ribbons and a 1920s Guide to New Seasons Hat Models in an oak frame. The lot has an estimate of £80-£120

‘Many of the hats date to the start of the 20th century when the cloche hat - a fitted, bell-shaped hat was all the rage. Generally made of felt, the name deriving for the French word for “bell”’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 35

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Geoffrey Munn

The Lilies of the Valley Egg by Fabergé, 1898. Gold, enamel, pearls, diamonds and a ruby. Photograph The Link of Times Foundation

MUNN of the MOMENT Antiques Roadshow presenter Geoffrey Munn’s work as a jeweller and Fabergé specialist put him in contact with six generations of the British royal family. The following is adapted from his remarkable new autobiography, A Touch of Gold

t was October 9, 1972, when I first arrived at Wartski, a jeweller’s shop in Regent Street, for an interview. At the time I had no idea where Regent Street was and much less what kind of eccentric environment I was about to stumble into. While Queen Elizabeth II’s warrant identified the shop as one of her suppliers, the window, with its restrained show of modern and antique jewellery, gave no hint this was the greatest Fabergé-dealer in the world. By the time I arrived in 1972, the chairman was Kenneth Snowman (1919–2002), the grandson of its founder Morris Wartski (1855–1946), who was himself a world authority on 18th-century gold snuff boxes and works of art by Fabergé. Trembling with nerves (I had refused a cup of coffee for fear of slopping it onto the Aubusson carpet), Mr Snowman suggested we look at the contents of the cabinets. Many contained pretty gewgaws made at the turn of the 19th century by the famous Russian goldsmith, Carl Fabergé. In the corner of one of the cabinets was a miniature menagerie which reminded me of an article, Palace Ephemera: Fabergé Animals that delighted a Queen, which I had seen by chance in the Antique Dealer and Collectors’ Guide in the dentist’s waiting room in 1967 when I was just 14. Having no idea that he was the author, I told my interviewer I remembered the article; he, with characteristic modesty, said nothing. I believe this was the very moment my luck changed. Not just in the short term, but forever. As a callow, hirsute youth with fashionable Beatles’ haircut and full beard I could never have imagined that nearly half a century later I would still be working at Wartski, not only as its managing director, but also as its official historian.

Famous clients By the time I had arrived at Wartski in 1972, Frank Sinatra (1915–1998) had been an established customer for six or seven years and purchased several pieces of Fabergé. We always had due notice of Sinatra’s visits, in fact, more warning than for any other

36 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

customer – be it rake or royalty. As soon as his London itinerary was settled, his American secretary would decide on a date, confirm it by letter and inform us he would be staying at Claridge’s Hotel. The last time I saw Sinatra he had taken an interest in a large silver clock modelled on the twin-towered protestant church in Kyiv. Kenneth Snowman presided over most of this transaction, and I was free to marvel at Sinatra’s steely blue eyes, the application of his make-up and his thick toupé. Sinatra also brought his fragile bride, the gamine beauty, Mia Farrow (b.1945), to Wartski as well as his friend, the equally famous singer and actor, Bing Crosby (1903–77), who had been a customer at Wartski since 1965. Crosby was often accompanied by his wife, Kathryn, who had an ambition to own one of the famous flower studies, but these are the rarest of all of Fabergé’s creations and I am not sure she ever achieved it.

Left The Coronation

Coach Egg by Fabergé, 1897. Gold, enamel, rock crystal, rubies and diamonds. Photograph The Link of Times Foundation Below left Three diamond-set tiaras of British royal provenance. From left to right: the Duchess of Teck’s tiara, the Strathmore tiara and the Delhi Durbar tiara. By gracious permission of Her late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Photograph © Paul Grover Bottom right The author

with Dame Joanna Lumley at the opening of the Tiaras exhibition at the V&A, 2002. Victoria and Albert Museum

Brush with royalty Some 25 years later, in 1997 – and 86 years after Cartier in London put tiaras on public display to great critical acclaim – I was inspired to follow in its footsteps. The show was to be in aid of Samaritans or, more

‘Within a very short time, it was possible to bring together 105 tiaras for the show, the list of lenders was impressive. Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother lent the rose tiara given to her by her parents, the 14th Earl and Countess of Strathmore, as a wedding present in 1923’

specifically, Lowestoft Samaritans. All I needed to do was to compile a list of the most beautiful, historic and eccentric tiaras that had passed through my hands and ask their owners to lend them for the famous charity. Within a very short time, it was possible to bring together 105 for the show and the list of lenders was impressive. Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother lent the rose tiara given to her by her parents, the 14th Earl and Countess of Strathmore, as a wedding present in 1923. It was the first of seven tiaras lent by members of the royal family, and Queen Elizabeth’s promise of her modest but poignantly beautiful garland of roses encouraged others to lend their family treasures. Worried by the unprecedented splendour of it all, I decided to cut through the riches, by asking the late Dame Edna Everage to ANTIQUE COLLECTING 37

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR Geoffrey Munn contribute something from her collection. She suggested, rather than lend a piece, that I invent one for her. And so I went to a fashion jeweller Butler & Wilson to have one made up of rhinestones modelled on her famous glasses. Dame Edna was not the only superstar taking part. In 1997, David Furnish (b.1962) released a biographical film about life with his partner Elton John (b.1947) called Tantrums and Tiaras. The timing could only be described as serendipitous and, within three days, Elton and David brought the title piece tiaras to me as their contribution to Samaritans. These were costume jewels at the highest level of camp. In all, 5,500 people visited the exhibition in 14 days, including Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother herself, when she made a point of joining the general public despite being in her 97th year.

By Royal Appointment

Above The Serpent Egg

Clock by Fabergé. Four colours of gold, enamel and diamonds. Given by Emperor Alexander III to his wife Empress Maria Feodorovna in 1895. His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco

It was while I was researching a tiara owned by the Hon. Mrs George Keppel (1868–1947) – a favourite companion of Edward VII – that I first met Mrs Camilla Parker Bowles. The meeting came after her father, Major Bruce Shand, suggested I contact his daughter for her help with the tiara. A few days later, she visited me at Wartski. At the time, there was an incentive at Wartski to make up a stock of contemporary gem-set jewellery and, being no great designer myself, I looked to nature, including crabs and shrimps, for inspiration for a range of naturalistic brooches. One source was even more unusual: at the time my sons Alexander and Edward had a pet stick insect, aptly named Sticky, and it occurred to me it would be the perfect model for a brooch. Sticky travelled by taxi to the manufacturing jeweller E. Wolfe & Co. in Hatton Garden for the modellers and setters to replicate him exactly, in glittering platinum and diamonds. During a subsequent visit to Wartski in early 2005, Mrs Parker Bowles admired the glittering stick insect brooch. A few days later, when her father Major Shand, rang to see if there was anything suitable as an engagement gift for his daughter and the then Prince Charles, he agreed the stick insect was a perfect choice. The Queen continues to wear it, even now, in memory of her late father, Major Shand.

‘My first sight of Princess Margaret was of a woman, 50, not tall, whose appearance can only be described as immaculate. Perfectly made up, with her hair, always extraordinarily fine and lustrous, gathered in a chignon. She was wearing five rows of pearls and a Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch cleverly chosen to accentuate her peacock blue dress’ 38 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Meeting Princess Margaret I came into contact with Princess Margaret in 1980, during the preparation of my book about Castellani and Carlo Giuliano. Earlier that year, having heard about the Princess’s small collection of Giuliano jewellery and being granted an audience, I set off on the bus to Kensington Palace dressed in a slate grey suit and flared trousers, my hair fashionably long and sporting an equally fashionable moustache. My first sight of the Princess was of a woman, 50, not tall, whose appearance can only be described as immaculate. Perfectly made up, with her hair, always extraordinarily fine and lustrous, gathered in a chignon. She was wearing five rows of pearls and a Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch at the front, cleverly chosen to accentuate the colour of her peacock-blue silk dress. In my youthful excitement of the moment, I fear I came close to boring Her Royal Highness with academic details of Carlo Giuliano’s career, but I knew she was interested to learn more about one of the jewellers favoured by her great great-grandmother, Queen Victoria. Anxious not to overstay my welcome, I felt it was time for me to leave but evidently it was not, not quite: a little brown and white Jack Russell terrier called Flower Pot had just rattled into the room. Later at Wartski she showed me a beautiful fringe necklace set with cabochon moonstones and rubies by Giuliano and, in due course, allowed me to illustrate it on the front cover of my book in 1983. The Princess died on 9 February 2002. I heard the news in Florida and, in common with the rest of the world, I felt a bright and colourful light had been abruptly snuffed out.

Above

An enamelled gold brooch set designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones and made by Carlo Giuliano, c. 1885. It was the gift of Geoffrey and Caroline Munn to the Victoria and Albert Museum. Prudence Cuming

Adapted from A Touch of Gold - The Reminiscences of Geoffrey Munn, published by ACC Art Books priced £25. Subscribers can save 35 percent on the cover price, paying £16.25 plus £7 p&p, email uksales@accartbooks. com or call 01394 389950.

confidence in valuing it at £1m. There had never been a higher value for anything on Antiques Roadshow.

Burges brooch

Antiques Roadshow

If everybody has had a quarter-ofan-hour of fame, then mine (just a tad longer) owes almost everything to the iconic BBC television programme, Antiques Roadshow, which I was invited to join in 1989, with only a narrow knowledge of Fabergé and antique jewellery. I soon realised the programme was less about the object and more about the owner and, certainly, precious little about me. My remit was to discover if an object was a purchase, heirloom, emissary of love or, most moving of all, a souvenir of love beyond the grave. Over the course of three decades on the show, one or two sequences stand out. Most memorably, in 2012, at Houghton Hall in Norfolk when I came across a large ring made from a plait of three strands of gold, dating to 9th century Saxon England (above), likely fallen from the hand of a high-ranking individual, even a king. I pitched it at £10,000 Five years later at the Black Country Living Museum in Dudley, one of the finds presented at my table turned out to be record breaking. It came in the shape of one of Fabergé’s flower studies. These completely charming and utterly useless objects are made from some of the rarest materials found on earth. Usually of gold, cast and engraved to simulate a bract or opening bud, the stems and twigs are supported in specimen vases of the purest waterwhite rock crystal; not glass but a natural stone. In these tiny transparent pots, Fabergé’s craftsmen perfected a witty illusion by perfectly simulating the presence of water, an essential to all cut flowers. Nothing of this importance had appeared on the open market for years and so I had every

This was another memorable find. I have always been fascinated by the work of the polymath and architectural genius William Burges (18271881). He, like many artists of his time, involved himself in every aspect of the decorative arts, including jewellery with the whereabouts of some of his brooches remaining a mystery. It was clear if I wanted to find them it would be a good idea to broadcast design details of the brooch on the programme. It provoked the owner of one, Jill Cousins, from Market Harborough, to come forward. Lo and behold, it was the rediscovered Burges brooch (below). On screen I had to make a snap decision regarding authenticity knowing whatever I said would be recorded in perpetuity. Made of silver and set with four tiny turquoises and a garnet, its intrinsic value was probably no more than £40. With the pressure on me to come up with a value, I ventured a figure of £10,000. Ten thousand pounds! The prospect of a very public humiliation if it went under the hammer kept me awake for months. I need not have worried; in August 2011, it sold for the princely sum of £31,000.

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 39

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE

Puzzle TIME

See if you can defeat the super brain of our resident puzzle editor Peter Wade-Wright with this month’s quiz and crossword

Send your answers to Crossword, Antique Collecting magazine, Riverside House, Dock Lane, Melton Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 1PE. Photocopies are also acceptable, or email your answers to magazine@ accartbooks.com. The first three opened by October 15 will win a copy of Jackson’s Hallmarks, Pocket Edition: English, Scottish, Irish Silver & Gold Marks From 1300 to the Present Day, worth £6.95

NOVEMBER QUIZ

Q7 What name was given to the timepieces used in taverns for the use of the general customer ? (a) Curfew clocks, (b) Wellbeing clocks, (c) Act of Parliament clocks, (d) ‘Get-thee-home’ clocks.

Q1 With what is the 19th-century name Manton associated? (a) early police body-armour, (b) guns, (c) ceremonial swords, (d) protective shoes. Q2 What is the 18th-century Frenchman JeanBaptiste Le Prince known for? (a) aquatints, (b) mapmaking, (c) early pointillist experiments, (d) Champagne bottle design. Q3 What were known as Affenkapelle? (a) 19th-century Victorian song sheets (loved by Prince Albert) with monkey motif headings, (b) early 20th-century soft toys in the form of animals that squeaked, (c) a series of 17th-century monkey figurines, (d) German zoo advertisements sold by singing hawkers.

Q8 If you had an “Admiral Lord Howe”, would it be? (a) a sea chart, (b) an large anchor, (c) a glass with which to toast the sovereign, (d) a toby jug in the form of a naval figure. Q7 What alternative name

is given to tavern clocks?

Q10 What did Nantgarw throw away in large quantities? (a) porcelain, (b) glass, (c) woodchips, (d) goodwill.

Q4 A Sussex pig is what? (a) a supersized trencher, (b) a jug, (c) a bain-marie, (d) early (19th c.) generously-stuffed duvet. Q5 What was a Papal rose? (a) ceramic seal on Church documents, (b) an architectural device, (c) a written ‘blessing’ (orison), (d) a gold present. Q6 What did the furniture maker Robert Thompson use as his trademark? (a) a wren, (b) a mouse, (c) a butterfly, (d) A Green Man?

Q9 The name for

a 19th-century gold watch-chain is what?

Thompson? Image courtesy of Wilkinson’s

40 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Finally, here are four anagrams: phased art, antioilman, reticent gallop and aircrew’s hound. Rearrange them to form, in order: a porcelain known as ‘true’ (two words); sheets of wood glued together; a method of fixing silver to a base metal; and a convex receptacle running the full width of a piece of furniture (two words). For the answers turn to page 10. 1

SOLUTION TO LAST MONTH’S CROSSWORD:

The letters when rearranged form the word baluster. The winners who will each receive a copy of the book are: Denis Baker, by email; Marie Henson-Wright, Doncaster and Charles Stewart, Aberdeen, by email. Q6 What motif features on furniture by Robert

Q9 A 19th-century gold watch-chain with a bar for passing through a button-hole was called? (a) a vester, (b) a stretcher, (c) an Albert, (d) her Majesty’s ‘commandment’.

I 8

S 27

R R

I A

M O

T 28

W 11

N N

E T

H N

E S

U I

E 19

I H

A 10

L 16

I 23

N 9

L 12

O A

I 22

C 14

U 17

L 13

6 7

8 9

11 13

16 18 20

DOWN CLUE

What is the name of the hero (right) in this 1912 painting by John Duncan (1866–1945)?

22 23

Across

1 Modern copy of older styles. (5) 4 Mental worry…or to ornament with interlaced work of some sort. (4) 6 Shape or incise ornamental design upon a book cover, for instance. (4) 7 Overcooked, or as _____ sienna a reddish raw colour. (5) 8 What one bids for. (1, 3) 9 Start the bidding, or as ____ twist, a form of spiral turning on furniture legs in the second half of the 17th century. (4) 11 Horse pace between a walk and a run…on the ____ meaning in succession without a break. (4) 13 Small, cylindrical 18th-century pepper pot. (7) 17 Put together and include under one heading. (4) 18 Musical piece for one voice or instrument. (4) 20 ____ glass. Small drinking vessel of originally American usage. (4) 21 Italian poet/philosopher etc. (1265-1321). Author of The Divine Comedy. (5) 22 German luxury-car A small glass is known as what? manufacturer with origins in the early 20th century. (4) 23 Worked with needle and thread. (4) 24 A husband is what is left of a lover, after the ____ has been extracted. Helen Rowland (1875-1950). Or, to hold one’s ____ , meaning to be fearless? (5)

ACROSS CLUE

DOWN CLUE Can you name this German artist?

Down

1 A discount or, in construction, a groove or slot for a door or shutter. (6) 2 _____ piece…of an earlier time. (6) 3 ____ Dix (1891-1969) German painter and printmaker known for harsh depiction of German society. (4) 4 Soft woven fabric originally using carded wool or worsted. (7) 5 Dense, dark hardwood with a surface achieving a mirrored ornamentation. (5) 10 Type of car powered by human effort. (5) 12 ____ and Iseult. He was a legendary 12th-century hero. (7) 14 Strip of cloth as table ornament, or something on which a drawer slides. (6) 15 Basic shape in the Ptolemaic system of Astronomy, and the “Harmony” of Pythagoras (sing.) (6) 16 Oldest natural earth pigment used by humans. (5) 19 Revered god of Germanic paganism. (4) Finally, rearrange the letters in the highlighted squares to form the name of another wood (see 5 down) valued for furniture making. ANTIQUE COLLECTING 41

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR The history of shoes

HEART & SOLE B

efore fashion took over, practicality, status and even architecture all played a part in what we wore on our feet. This month in Winchester some 70 pairs, from an Anglo-Saxon bone skate to a 1950s stiletto, go on display – each shoe presenting a mini-history of the period in its own right. For collectors, the history of shoes can provide an exciting insight into the cultural values, traditions, and norms of different time periods. Added to which, because so few early shoes survive, scholars and collectors have to look to paintings, sculptures and tapestries for clues, giving a wonderful focus for broader historical research. Take the Plantagenet era, which was a great time of church and cathedral building. The tall spires and steeples were reflected in women’s high headdresses and echoed in the elongated shape of the era’s long footwear.

Making a point It was in the reign of one of the great Plantagenet kings, Edward III (1312-1377), that society in general started to realise the value of exclusiveness. In Edward’s time laws were passed restricting social climbing by banning styles of dress considered “above” the wearer. Jewellery worn by the wives of men under the rank of knight was banned and only women married to men who owned land worth £200 were allowed to

42 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

From the earliest sandals to the first high heels, throughout the ages shoes have provided a unique insight into the society who wore them. On the eve of a new exhibition Antique Collecting magazine unbuckles their history Above Moroccan leather

women’s clog, c.17301750, on show at this month’s exhibition at the Gallery at The Arc, Winchester Below left Crakow, British, 1300–1450, excavated from an archaeological site on the Thames, illustration only, not in the exhibition, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

edge their clothes in miniver – but not ermine. In terms of footwear this was the era of the poulaine and the crakow (they originated in Poland), or pike, favoured by both men and women. The shoe was characterised by its extremely long toes and became de rigueur among the upper classes after the 1382 marriage of Richard II to Anne of Bohemia. Because of their near comical length (points were often stuffed with moss or other materials) poulaines could not be worn by the average worker for whom movement was essential. A fact soon recognised by the nobility who wanted to distance themselves from low level workers and for whom the length of the toe signalled the wearer’s status.

Importance of length Before long, long-toed shoes inevitably attracted laws that banned anyone whose income was less than £40 a year from wearing them. While a prince could wear his toe-points as long as he liked, 24 inches was the limit for a nobleman, 12 inches for a gentleman and six for a commoner. The shoes also attracted the condemnation of the Church - not just for their undoubted phallic undertones but the fact, as was made clear in an English poem from 1388, that men were unable to kneel in prayer because their toes were too long. In 1465, they were banned in England altogether: all cordwainers and cobblers within the City of London and its environs were prohibited from making shoes with pikes more than two inches long. But, by this time, the fashion had already given way to an opposite style.

Right Chopines, Italian,

Tudor period (1485-1558) By the late 15th century, with the Tudor reign, the poulaine was superceded by an equally exaggerated style of shoe with an unusually broad instep and toe. At the time, men’s fashion was for doublets with the hems fixed at mid-thigh, with large padded shoulders; women’s dresses were similarly designed with wide silhouettes. Broad men’s shoes were known as duck-bill, bearpaw or a cow’s mouth shoe. The style was said to have started with Charles VIII of France, to disguise his extra toe, and was later adopted with gusto by Henry VIII who was often depicted wearing broad shoes, which would have bolstered the image of his aggressive, confident stance. Like the poulaine, the style was impractical, the large, stuffed toe – which could be a foot wide – giving the wearer a waddling gait. And, like the length of the poulaine, the width indicated the status of the wearer. For peasants the shoes were made of thick cloth or felt and, not being waterproof, required a patten (a second sole, in Tudor times made of wood, worn over the shoe to protect it from mud and dirt). For the rich, thick hide leather was used.

The rise of the startup Class continued to be at the centre of shoe fashion, and 1509 saw startups become a popular country shoe. They took the shape of a legging which aped the shoes of the better off – and gave rise to the word ‘upstart’. By the time of Elizabeth I’s reign (1558-1603) shoemakers had open shops, similar to other merchants, allowing fashionable shoes to be seen in every town. The first design with a distinct heel, made of cork and called pisnets and pantoffles, emerged in Europe around 1575, but the style didn’t gain widespread favour until the 1600s. Heels were not a new invention, however, as they had been worn as early as the 10th century by Persian cavalry soldiers who needed to keep their feet in stirrups. Throughout Charles I’s reign (1625-1649) – a period of civil unrest and warfare – men’s footwear was influenced by military dress, including a widecuffed boot.

1550–1650, with red and green velvet covering, gold braid edging and beard-like tassels, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, illustration only, not in this month’s exhibition

THE CHOPINE

e Above Detail from Th Ditchley Portrait of Henry VIII, after Hans Holbein the Younger, originally displayed at Ditchley, Oxfordshire, c. 16001610, illustration only, image public domain Below left Shoes, probably British, 16th century, illustration only, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Developed in the early 16th century and especially popular among Venetian women, the high-platformed chopine had both a practical and symbolic function and is one of the first indications of the desire for a heel. The thick-soled, raised shoe was designed to protect the foot from irregularly paved and wet or muddy streets. But the enhancement of the wearer’s stature also played a role. The chopine’s height introduced an awkwardness and instability to a the wearer’s walk. Ladies who wore them were generally accompanied by an attendant on whom they could balance. A pair of 20 inch chopines, in the Museo Correr in Venice, was thought to have been worn by a courtesan to make her stand out in public. But records show chopine’s height was also associated with the level of nobility and grandeur of the Venetian wearer.

Shoe roses While the Tudors had reached the ultimate in squareness, the years of James I (1603-1625) limited the excess of the Cavaliers which were brought to an abrupt end by Oliver

Right Attributed to

William Larkin (1580– 1619) Edward Sackville (1591–1652), 4th Earl of Dorset, illustration only, public domain

‘Like any item of dress, shoes signalled the wearer’s status to his or her peers. Very fine quality shoes with elaborate decoration were reserved for the upper classes’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 43

THE EXPERT COLLECTOR The history of shoes the period many shoes, of both sexes, were worn with decorative buckles that could be transferred from one pair to another – a design feature which got bigger as the century progressed. For the early part of the century Hogarth’s works provide useful illustrations, as do the portraits of Gainsborough and Reynolds. Hogarth’s Harlot’s Progress, 1731, shows a typical pair of high-heeled buckled shoes. Backless mules also became a popular style in the 18th century for both men and women. In 1791, Foret published a coloured print of the foot of Frederica, Duchess of York (1767-1820) who was married

Cromwell. At the time there was very little difference between men’s and women’s shoes, but it was a period of experimentation, with one feature common to most shoes – the shoe rose. Made of looped ribbon, lace or looped leather the rosette was in a colour to match, or contrast, that of the shoe with many designed to the wearer’s match garters. As the period progressed the shoe rose grew larger. The size, depth and width varied with some taking on preposterous proportions. At the same time, while the fashion for clothes was white, with shoes made from matching white leather, an element of colour was introduced with the red heel – first made popular at the French court at Versailles where it carried a military overtone. The fashion for white saw a huge amount of white lace used around the boot top which often included a secret pocket for keeping letters, perfume, gloves, or even a pistol.

The Georgians (1714-1820) In the 18th century, women’s fashion became more prominent, with most upper-class shoes being delicate and intended for indoor use only – a sign of gentility. There was a great demand for pleated silk and satin which became very à la mode. Embroidery and lavish trimmings were common among wearers who could afford them. Some shoes featured ribbon ties, which were used to secure the shoes to the foot. Most were made of silk or other decorative materials and added a further touch of elegance to the footwear. Square-blocked deep toes came back into fashion again. Elegant overshoes called “clogs” were now being worn and made to match the shoe. At the beginning of

Above left Women’s Chinese Manchu shoe, c.1900-1950, on show at this month’s exhibition at the Gallery at The Arc, Winchester Above Shoes, French,

1690–1700, illustration only, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Right Women’s Victorian

pearled button boots, Joseph Box, London, c.1890-1900, on show at this month’s exhibition at the Gallery at The Arc, Winchester Below left Mules, British, first quarter 18th century, illustration only, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

‘18th-century shoes featured ribbon ties which were used to secure the shoe to the foot. They were often made of silk or other decorative materials and added a further touch of elegance to the footwear’ 44 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

The French Revolution

Above Women’s

to George IV’s brother. The duchess, not considered overly attractive, was praised for the smallness of her feet which measured just 5¾in, heralding a fashion for tiny feet. Basic types of shoes began to be available ready-made from the mid 18th century, although those who could afford to do so ordered custom-made shoes and boots. Later advances in mechanisation and mass production during the Industrial Revolution meant members of the growing middle class could afford to own many more and different types of garments and footwear. In the 19th century, while handmade shoes or boots retained a certain cachet, the average shopper bought footwear from the growing number of department stores.

‘boudoir’ slipper boots, c.1920-1930s, on show at this month’s exhibition at the Gallery at The Arc, Winchester Right Shoes,

probably French, 1760–1775, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, illustration only

In the years running up to the Revolution it seemed French fashion was having its final fling. Heels were high, meaning wearers had to carry a walking stick, while the back seam of the shoe was encrusted with jewellery known as a venezy-voir or “come hither” shoe. One sought-after style was the Pompadour court shoe, named after Madame de Pompadour, an official mistress of the French King Louis XV. The Revolution saw French dress become more sombre, with buckles – considered the domain of the aristocracy – replaced by ribbons. It was a move which prompted the demise of the Birmingham buckle industry which had to look to jewellery to survive. The Directoire and subsequent consulate and empire under Napoleon looked to classical art for inspiration, with the Greek sandal becoming fashionable. In Britain, an exaggerated version of prerevolution style was adopted by the “Macaroni” – male dandies who wore embroidered silk and velvet, lace, high heels and towering powdered wigs. The London Magazine wrote: “The appearance of a Frenchman… which formerly set every Englishman laughing, is now entirely adopted in this country…” After a tax on hair powder was introduced in 1795, wigs and more extravagant styles went out of fashion.

Below Silk satin women’s shoes, c.1730-1750, on show at this month’s exhibition at the Gallery, The Arc, Winchester

Shoes: Inside Out is on at the Gallery at The Arc, Winchester, Jewry Street, Winchester, SO23 8SB from November 24 to February 14. For more details go to www.hampshireculture.org.uk/gallery-arc-winchester

Above Pumps, illustration only, image courtesy of the

Metropolitan Museum of Art

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 45

Treasures like yours belong on eBay List your art & antiques in our new collectables category. For more information, scan the QR code Amy Kent Senior Category Manager, Art & Antiques UKCollectables@ebay.com

FRIDAY 1ST - SUNDAY 3RD DECEMBER 2023

BIRMINGHAM NEC, EXHIBITION HALL 8 10am - 5pm (Friday & Saturday), 10am - 4pm (Sunday)

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Military Cross and bar Sgt Disney was sent for officer training in Grantham and received his commission as a temporary 2nd lieutenant in September 1917. He would have almost certainly taken part in some of the most important battles during the spring offensive of 1918, and by July 1918 he had earned the Military Cross. His London Gazette citation reads: “He personally rescued a gun and tripod, organising a fresh team from stragglers, and with them providing invaluable assistance during a crucial moment of the operations. His exceptional ability and courage were most marked.”

An Auctioneer’s Lot With Remembrance Day marked this month, Charles Hanson praises a WWI hero whose various gallantry medals set him apart

ountless young men signed up to serve their country. Many never returned. All suffered unimaginable horrors in the trenches. Herbert Alfred Disney was one of them. Luckily he did return and, such was his inspirational conduct, he earned a trio of medals as well as the prestigious Military Cross and later bar for “personally capturing two enemy machine guns and a dozen prisoners”. They added to his British War Medal and Victory Medal and previously-awarded Distinguished Conduct Medal (DCM). It is extremely rare to receive all these awards and it would likely make him one of the most decorated WWI soldiers in his regiment.

Above The lot includes

Sgt Disney’s cap, identity bracelet, trench maps, Field Service Book Above right Sgt Alfred

Disney, who died in 1960 aged 71, with wife, Annie Below right Sgt Disney’s

medals (left to right: Military Cross and bar, Distinguished Conduct Medal (DCM), British War Medal and Victory Medal

Machine gun fire He again demonstrated exceptional courage when on November 4, 1918, during the Battle of Sambre, he won the bar for his Military Cross. Sgt Disney’s citation read: “He succeeded in personally capturing two enemy machine guns with about 12 prisoners. He brought one of the guns into action, and effectively silenced the machine gun fire that was holding up the advance.” The action, only seven days before the Armistice, makes his second Military Cross award – one of the latest of the Great War. Other memorabilia includes Alfred’s officer’s cap, identity bracelet, trench maps, Field Service Book, a 1918 book entitled The Employment of Machine Guns, two fob watches, WWI-era embroidered postcards, a 1915 issued Princess Mary tin with scarce silver-tipped bullet pencil, photographs and ephemera relating to his time in the Machine Gun Corps. The medals and other items of wartime memorabilia relating to Alfred’s military service go under the hammer on November 7, with an estimate of £3,000-£3,500.

Humble start Born in Barrow-upon-Soar, Leicestershire in 1889, Alfred was diagnosed with pleurisy and emphysema at the age of 10 but was rated “A1” when he enlisted in 1915 at the age of 26. He soon rose up the ranks becoming a private with the Sherwood Foresters (Notts & Derby Regiment) in 1915. The machine gun corps (MGC) was formed in October that year, and the following year he transferred as a gunner. Rising through the ranks he was promoted to sergeant in August 1916. Family accounts suggest he took part in the Battle of Delville Wood and the Battle of Guillemont. His leadership skills and composure were noted as, by June 4, 1917, he was awarded the DCM. The citation stated the medal was given: “For conspicuous gallantry and devotion to duty. He has constantly performed good work and setting a splendid example to those under him.”

‘The action at Sambre, only seven days before the Armistice, makes his 2nd Military Cross award one of the latest in the Great War’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 47

COLLECTING GUIDE Macallan whisky

AGAINST the GRAIN

A new film sees Emily Mortimer in the role of a pioneering female distiller whose 1926 cask produced four of the most expensive bottles of whisky ever sold (notching up some £4m). Whisky expert Mark Littler charts the remarkable rise of the Macallan 60 year old and its mysterious unaccounted-for bottle

t was January 1919 when the recently widowed Janet “Nettie” Harbinson reopened Macallan after a distilling ban in WWI to protect the country’s barley supply. Aged 49 with a child, it was the premature death of her husband Alexander, the company’s manager, that forced her to take up the reigns in a largely man’s

Above Emily Mortimer

stars as Janet “Nettie” Harbinson in the short film The Spirit of 1926, image courtesy of Macallan Above right Two

dozen bottles of whisky discovered in Blair Castle in Perthshire and dating back to the early 1800s, each has an estimate of £10,000 at the Whisky Auctioneer’s online sale from November 24 to December 4 Left Emily Mortimer

as Nettie Harbinson outside Easter Elchies House, image courtesy of Macallan

48 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

world. While pressure was building on Nettie to sell the company, she was determined to keep it on providing a lifeline for the war-ravaged families employed by the Speyside distillery. Earlier this year Nettie’s unsung story was recounted for the first time in a short film, The Spirit of 1926, written by Allan Scott, Nettie’s great nephew and whose credits include the Netflix series The Queen’s Gambit.

Tough times When Nettie was thrust into the limelight global whisky consumption was in decline: prohibition was a year away and scotch was not the tipple of the roaring twenties. Unlike today, most of what Macallan produced disappeared into bottles of blended Scotch with a price capped at 12s/6d (62p). In upcoming years the UK barley harvest failed, forcing Nettie to import grain from Pakistan and Australia, and coal strikes added to production problems. But amid the turmoil the distillery produced one of the most revered – and profitable – whiskies of all time. A fabled whisky destined to lay undiscovered in its Aberdeen cooperage for the next 60 years.

Great discovery It was in 1986, during a routine inventory, that Hugh Mitcalfe, Macallan’s marketing director, spotted the Spanish oak sherry hogshead, stamped cask 263. By then its maker Nettie Harbinson was long gone, having continued to run the distillery until the age of 69. Mitcalfe soon saw its potential and was thrilled to discover the cask’s content’s ABV was above 40% (42.6%) and, after the whisky was successfully nosed, it was bottled. Over the following 16 years, 40 bottles of Macallan 1926 60 year old were produced. In the ‘80s whisky consumption was once more in the doldrums and Mitcalfe knew to realise its potential the whisky would require some very smart marketing.

Macallan and the arts By 1986 Macallan was fully aware of the sales potential of a label, having recruited David Holmes the creative director of the London ad agency Holmes Knight Ritchie, to launch its first single malt in 1984. Two years later the 1926 Macallan 60 year old required equal hype. To achieve it Holmes turned to his friend the British pop artist, Peter Blake (creator of the cover of The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band) to come up with a label for 12 of the 40 bottles. Blake’s black-and-white label (above) depicted distillery workers from the 1920s and Easter Elchies House, an enduring symbol of the 450-acre Macallan estate. The bottle was also presented in a bespoke glass presentation case designed by Holmes which took inspiration from the distillery’s spirit safe. The marketing strategy worked. In 1991, a Peter Blake labelled bottle sold in Glasgow for £6,375 – a huge amount at the time. But it was at Bonhams Hong Kong in 2018 that a world record was set for a Blake label when it fetched £800,000. The bottle remains number seven in the world’s top 10 most expensive whiskies ever sold.

Beyond the Macallan 1926

Above A Peter Blake-

designed label 1926 Macallan sold for £800,000 Bonhams Hong Kong in 2018 Above right The

Valerio Adami Blake’s illustration was not the only one to grace the Macallan 1926 60 year old. Knowing the distillery was looking for suitable artists to design labels, its Italian agent Armando Giovanetti suggested his countryman the artist Valerio Adami (b. 1935). Adami was well-known for his abstract paintings and, like Blake, was commissioned to create 12 labels for the Macallan 1926 60 year old bottles. Of these one was

Macallan 1938 has an estimated auction value of £10,000 -£14,000 Left In 2018 another

Adami label set a record when it sold in Hong Kong for £886,000. Below right Described

as the “holy grail” of Scotch, the one-of-akind single malt, with the label designed by Michael Dillon was the first bottle of whisky to exceed a sale of £1m in 2018

With their stylish handwritten labels, presented in rustic wooden presentation cases, Macallans aged 30 and 40 years and released worldwide in the 1980s are highly collectable. Look out for the Macallan 1938, bottled in the 1980s, which has an estimated auction value £10,000 -£14,000. The Macallan 1940, bottled in 1981, carries an auction guide price of £12,000 -£16,000; while the Macallan 1950, also bottled in the 1980s, is likely to make £5,000-£6,500 when it goes under the hammer. reportedly drunk many years ago, with another smashed during a 2011 earthquake in Japan, leaving 10 Valerio Adami bottles – one of which sold in London in 1996 for £12,000. In 2018, another Adami label set a record when it sold in Hong Kong for £886,000, making it number six in the world’s top 10.

The missing bottle Two dozen of the 40 bottles were thus accounted for, leaving two which were released without a label. One of these was hand painted by the Irish painter, Michael Dillon, on commission from Fortnum & Mason in 1999. Dillon, best known as a decorative painter and muralist, produced a wraparound label depicting – like Blake – Easter Elchies House. The bottle sold at in Christie’s in November 2018 for £1.2m (being the first bottle of whisky to shatter the £1m mark). The sale put the bottle

‘The bottle sold at Christie’s in November 2018 for £1.2m making it the second best-selling whisky of all time. The other unlabelled bottle sold for £20,150 at auction in 2002. Since then no one can account for its whereabouts, making it one of the most searched-for bottles in history’ ANTIQUE COLLECTING 49

COLLECTING GUIDE Macallan whisky

factors that impact the price of a whisky bottle

1 The age of the whisky This refers to the number of years the whisky spent maturing in the cask, not how long it has been in the bottle. The age is indicated on the label and can vary from three to more than 60 years old. Ages between 10 years and 30 years are the most common and older whiskies are generally more commercial. 2 Bottling period The year or period when the whisky was bottled can impact the value. As bottles from a specific year are consumed, the remaining bottles become rarer, so even a ‘standard’ malt can become sought after if it was bottled long enough ago. Bottlings from the ‘90s and earlier can be very commercial. 3 Distillation year The distillation year refers to the specific year in which the whisky was distilled. Not all whiskies will state the distillation years but series with distillation years are often sought after by collectors as they lend themselves to collecting sets or specific dates. 4 The level of the whisky in the bottle neck The level of the whisky in the bottle neck has a large impact on the value. As alcohol is more volatile than water it is the alcohol that will evaporate first, which damages the flavour. Some bottles have different neck styles but for a standard bottle the level should be well into the neck, ideally sitting in the top half of the bottle. 5 Label and packaging The label on a bottle of whisky is important to a collector; if it is damaged in any way then this will have a negative impact on the value. Having the original box also has a huge impact on the value as a bottle without its original box could be worth up to 30 per cent less. 6 Single cask bottlings in limited runs Single cask bottlings are generally more sought after, as by default they are unique and limited edition. Look out for numbers on your bottle like xxx/250, which would indicate a single cask edition. If it has been bottled at cask strength, then it becomes even more sought after. Larger editions such as xxx/3000 would generally indicate a larger multi-cask release or that the whisky has been diluted to a set percentage. These runs can also be commercial, especially it is from one of the more commercial distilleries.

50 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Left Damaged labels can

affect the price Right The 1926 60 year

old Macallan smashed the previous record by more than £300,000 to sell for £1.5m, image courtesy of Sotheby’s Below Whisky continues to be a profitable investment if you know what to look for

as the second best-selling whisky of all time. The other unlabelled bottle sold for £20,150 at auction in 2002. Since then no one can account for its whereabouts, making it one of the most searched-for bottles in history.

Fine and Rare But it is the most recent release of the 1926 60 year old that holds the record for the most expensive single bottle of whisky ever sold at auction when it sold for £1.5m at Sotheby’s London in 2019. The Fine and Rare series began in 2002 and is the largest vintage collection from a single distillery in the world. Purchasers of the Macallan 1926 60 year old were presented with the chance to work with an artist to create a bespoke label but none did. The mystique behind the 1926 vintage, with Netty’s contribution as well as the whereabouts of the missing bottle, only add to the scarcity and value of the remaining bottles. The Macallan 1926 60 year old continues to capture the imagination – and wallets – of whisky connoisseurs everywhere.

LIQUID GOLD Graham Budd Auction’s Martin Green reveals the most valuable whiskies that could be lurking in your drinks cabinet If you have a single malt whisky in your cupboard that isn’t opened then it is worth getting a valuation, especially if you’ve had it since the ‘90s or earlier. It doesn’t have to be 60 year old, or a bottle of Macallan or Bowmore: younger bottles and bottles from more obscure distilleries can still be commercial to the right collector. I’ve met people who have treated themselves to a nice bottle in the past and kept it at the back of a cupboard, with no idea what it could be worth today. People could be sitting on a goldmine without realising it.

The Macallan-Over 50 year old 1928: estimated auction value £70,000-£100,000 This is a rare bottle which originally retailed for £110 in the early 1980s. Only 500 bottles were released onto the UK market at the time - as you can imagine many have been drunk. Bottles of this year of distillation have very seldom been seen at auction or at retail since the turn of the new Millennium.

Black Bowmore, 1964: estimated auction values: 1st edition, bottled 1993: £15,000-£17,000; 2nd edition, bottled 1994: £12,000-£15,000; 3rd (final) edition, bottled 1995: £12,000-£15,000 These are iconic bottlings, the colour of the spirit speaks for itself. The spirit was matured in Olorosso sherry casks which gives it its dark, rich colour. Only 6,000 bottles were ever produced for the UK market, which is why it’s in demand now.”

The Macallan Private Eye 35th anniversary: estimated auction value £4,000-£5,000 In 1996, to commemorate its launch in 1961 Private Eye commissioned a special bottling by Macallan to be made available to its readers with a label designed by Ralph Steadman. The bottles contain whisky that was distilled in the year of Private Eye’s founding vatted together with a number of other Macallan casks. 5,000 bottles were issued for sale at £36 a bottle. Each bottle was individually numbered. Macallan Private Eye is one of the most sought-after bottlings of Macallan, despite being a no age statement bottle.

Bowmore Bicentenary, 1779-1979: estimated auction value £2,500-£3,500 A Bowmore bottled to celebrate the 200th-anniversary of the distillery, with a limited release of 22,000. I love the unusual bottle design which is based on a very old hand blown bottle held in the distillery archive and replicated for this run.

Springbank Local Barley, 1966: estimated auction value, £2,500-£2,800 Distilled in 1966 and bottled in April 1998 after 32 years of maturation in an ex-bourbon cask. Springbank distillery released several cask bottlings from this year, each bottling has the cask details and number printed on the colourful, very appealing labelling.

Glenmorangie 22 year old, 1963: estimated auction value £1,800-£2,000 First distilled in 1963, it was aged in oak for 22 years with a final finish for a year in Oloroso sherry casks. The Glenmorangie was released onto the market in 1985, the first expression of a vintage Glenmorangie to appear on the open market.

Glenfarclas, 1961: estimated auction value £1,200-£1,600 Look out for this early vintage Glenfarclas, released prior to the more commonly-known and exclusive Glenfarclas Family Casks Vintage range. The Speyside whisky distillery is in Ballindalloch.

‘In 1996, 5,000 bottles of Macallan Private Eye 35th anniversary whisky with Ralph Steadman’s design were sold at £36 a bottle, they now make £4,000-£5,000 at auction’ The Graham Budd whisky auction is on December 4. For more information visit www. grahambuddauctions.co.uk. For more details on independent whisky broker Mark Littler go to www.marklittler.com

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 51

ANTIQUES UNDER THE HAMMER Lots in November

TOP of the LOTS

The collection of the pioneering American broadcaster Barbara Walters goes under the hammer in New York A rare aesthetic movement cabinet combining Japanese lacquer panels and a Dutch Old Master goes under the hammer on November 7 at Chiswick Auctions, expected to fetch £40,000£60,000. The Victorian mashup, made to a design by Thomas Jeckyll (18271881), includes two lacquer doors, with stylised blossoms from the Momoyama period of Japan c.1600, while a third takes the form of a 17th-century Dutch painting in the style of the golden age painter, Pieter Holsteyn (1585–1662).

A sculpture of a horse by William Simmonds (1876-1968), one of the unsung heroes of the arts and crafts movement, has an estimate of £60,000£80,000 at the Gloucestershire auction house Chorley’s sale on November 21. The Black Mare, c. 1925, stands 48cm tall and depicts a stylised horse turning to nip a fly on its leg. Simmonds settled in the Cotswolds where he cultivated friendships with the region’s design set. The Black Mare, bought in 1926 for £500, showcases Simmonds’ admiration for Japanese art, in his use of black lacquer as a finish and his passion for wood carving. Above The Black Mare has an estimate of £60,000-£80,000 at this month’s sale

Six pairs of chairs used at the coronation of Charles III and Queen Camilla go under the hammer in Christie’s online sale ending this month, each with an estimate of £2,000-£4,000. Designed by the Rugby-based cabinetmaker N.E.J. Stevenson using sustainably-sourced British oak, 100 coronation chairs with royal blue velvet upholstery were made by the Royal Household Upholstery team in its workshop at Frogmore. Above The chairs were made for the coronation of Charles III and Queen Camilla

Above left The cabinet, c. 1875, melds

Japanese and Dutch motifs Left The lacquer panels include stylised

blossoms from the Momoyama period of Japan c.1600

A Dutch Delft plaque, c. 1750, has an estimate of £6,000£8,000 at Bonhams’ sale of furniture, silver, ceramics and clocks from the late Dutch connoisseur-collector Cornelis Paulus van Pauwvliet on November 21. Bonhams’ Charlie Thomas, said: “The collection was assembled by Cornelis Paulus van Pauwvliet over a 50-year period and housed in his Amsterdam home, a stone’s throw from the Rijksmuseum. The works in this sale showcase the evolution of Dutch taste from the 17th century to the late 19th century.” The influence of the French style on Dutch interiors, following the arrival of the Huguenots from France in the 1600s, is evident throughout the collection. Left A Dutch Delft plaque with moulded border, c. 1750, has an estimate of £6,000-£8,000

52 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

An Edo (1603-1868) or Meiji period (18681912) Japanese gusoku (composite armour) has an estimate of £2,500£3,500 at the Essex auction house, Sworders’ sale on November 2. It is one of a number of lots from the collection of Peter Dennison, a retired ships mechanic with a lifelong passion for WWII weapons and armour, particularly that of Japan. The armour featured includes a 22-plate kabuto (helmet) with a twotier neck guard and an articulated menpo (face mask) with a five-tiered yodarekake (throat guard). Right The Japanese armour comes

from the Peter Dennison collection

The collecton of the trailblazing US broadcaster Barbara Walters (1929-2022), whose interviewees included King Charles III, then the Prince of Wales, and every president from Nixon to Obama, goes under the hammer this month expected to make $8m. As well as being the first female co-host of an American network news programme (on NBC’s Today show) and the first female network news anchor (on ABC Evening News), Walters was a tasteful collector. Some 300 lots from the Emmy-award winning broadcaster’s Upper East Side apartment go under the hammer at Bonhams New York. Her flat was where she hosted dinner parties for interviewees who later became friends including Henry Kissinger, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Hugh Jackman.

Show-stopping jewels

Her 120-piece jewellery collection included pieces by Joel Arthur Rosenthal or JAR. Dubbed the “Fabergé of our Time” the jeweller is known to handpick his clients, with Walters being among the select group for whom he created bespoke designs. Another star lot is platinum diamond ring by the American jeweller Harry Winston (1897-1978), an engagement present from Merv Adelson which is expected to make $600,000-$800,000. Also by Harry Winston is a white gold and diamond pendant necklace designed as a pavé-set diamond monogram with letters ‘BW’ suspended from a cable-link chain which has an estimate of $4,000-$7,000. At the other end of the budget scale is a silverplated cigarette box given to Walters by Michael Douglas and his wife Catherine Zeta-Jones with whom she shared a birthday on September 25. The trio often celebrated together, calling themselves the ‘Club 925’. The box, which is engraved BW, Love, MD & CZJ has an estimate of $100-$200.

2 3

Art lover

Walters’ art collection reflected her New England roots – she was born in Boston to Louis Walters, a London-born theatrical promoter and Dena Seletsky, who was born in Lithuania before also emigrating to the US. Depictions of Boston loom large in the art collection, with a watercolour of Franklin Park in Boston by Maurice Brazil Prendergast (1858-1924) carrying a guide price of $150,000-$250,000. But a portrait by John Singer Sargent (1856-1925), whose family had roots in New England is one of the highlights. His Egyptian Woman (Coin Necklace), 1891, is expected to make $1.2-$1.8m. The live auction at Bonhams New York takes place on November 6 with an online sale running from October 29 to November 7. 1 A monogrammed white gold and diamond pendant necklace with the initials ‘BW’ by Harry Winston has an estimate of $4,000-$7,000 2 A diamond ring of D colour, VVS2 clarity, weighing 13.84 carats, flanked by brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.46 carats has an estimate of $600,000-$900,000 3 A pair of gemset earrings, including peridot, tourmaline, sapphire and diamonds, by Joel Arthur Rosenthal or JAR is expected to make $180,000-$250,000 4 A silver-plated cigarette box, a gift from friends Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones, has an estimate of $100-$200 5 John Singer Sargent (1856-1925) Egyptian Woman (Coin Necklace), 1891, oil on canvas. It has an estimate of $1.2$1.8m 6 An English silver repoussé five-piece tea and coffee service has an estimate $5,000-$7,000

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 53

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OUT AND ABOUT November

FAIR NEWS

A new fair launches in London, while antique lovers head to Warwickshire for one of the most anticipated events of the year Material world

The UK’s biggest textile art, craft and design event takes place at the Harrogate Convention Centre from November 16-19. The Knitting and Stitching Show will showcase designs from Quilters’ Guild Museum Collection, including more than 900 examples of patchwork, quilting and appliqué dating from the 18th to the 21st century. The four-day event will also reveal the winner of the prestigious Fine Art Textiles Award 2023. The competition’s 25 shortlisted entries for Hand & Lock’s global embroidery prize will be on display ahead of the announcement of this year’s winner. Dating back to 1767, Hand & Lock is the UK’s oldest embroidery house, providing textile designs to royalty, fashion designers and the Armed Forces. Specialists from the London company will also be on hand to discuss its bespoke work for last year’s coronation.

Fun fair

There’s a chance to meet Antique Collecting’s stalwart contributor David Harvey at this month’s threeday Cotswolds Art and Antiques Dealers’ Association (CADA) fair at Compton Verney in Warwickshire. Close to 30 dealers, will showcase the finest antiques and fine art at the association’s annual event from November 17-19, coinciding with the gallery’s exhibition History in the Making: Highlights from Woburn and the Crafts Council Collections. Worcestershire-based Mayflower Antiques will present a special display of Spanish and Portuguese colonial pieces, including a rare silver bernegal, dated 1650 and priced £31,500. Above An ormolu and marble Empire mantel clock by Mesnil featuring Diana, the

goddess of hunting and her dog, c. 1810. It is priced £9,500 from Tobias Birch Below A mahogany kettle stand in the Chinese Chippendale taste, c. 1760, is priced

£12,500; while a pair of mid-18th century mahogany Gainsborough chairs of the same date, also priced £12,500, both on sale from W.R. Harvey & Co.

Above Visitors will see a stunning mid-19th century wool inlaid coverlet with a

Scottish and theatrical origin

Crafty people

Cheltenham Town Hall is the location for the Craft Festival Cheltenham from November 17-19, which welcomed 2,500 visitors to its last outing in March. Limited to 100 exhibitors, each is handpicked by an independent panel of experts to ensure only the best work goes on sale. Local craft professionals include the Cheltenham-based ceramicist Jayne Tricker and Cotswolds furniture maker John Crossley of All in the Making, who will showcase his handmade chairs, stools and tables. Festival organiser, Sarah James, said: “We were overwhelmed by the feedback from makers and customers following our last show in March, so we’re excited to bring the event back for its second annual pre-Christmas festival this November.” Above Visitors to a meet the makers class at the popular craft event

Church fair

St Cuthbert’s Church in Earls Court, one of the jewels of capital’s arts and crafts churches, is the location for the inaugural Kensington Vintage Fair on November 4. BBC’s Antiques Roadshow specialist Mark Hill will also be on hand at the new event which promises retro bargains and antique rarities. As well as must-have collectables, the fair will rock to the beat of live music. The church, at 50 Philbeach Gardens, is a spectacular example of late-Victorian church architecture with the most famous of its interiors being its large lectern which John Betjeman, described as “Nouveau Viking”. Above The church’s interior was designed by William Bainbridge Reynolds

(1845–1935) one of the most talented metalwork designers of the period and a member of the congregation

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 57

FAIRS Calendar Because this list is compiled in advance, alterations or cancellations to the fairs listed can occur and it is not possible to notify readers of the changes. We strongly advise anyone wishing to attend a fair especially if they have to travel any distance, to telephone the organiser to confirm the details given.

LONDON: Inc. Greater London Adams Antiques Fairs 020 7254 4054 www.adamsantiquesfairs.com Adams Antiques Fair, The Royal Horticultural Halls, Elverton Street, SW1P 2QW, Nov 5, Dec 10 Etc Fairs 01707 872 140 www.bloomsburybookfair.com Bloomsbury Book Fair, Turner Suite at Holiday Inn, Coram Street, London, WC1N 1HT, Bloomsbury Book Fair, Nov 12, Dec 10 Ephemera Fair, Nov 26 Sunbury Antiques 01932 230946 www.sunburyantiques.com Kempton Antiques Market, Kempton Park Race Course, Staines Road East, Sunbury-on-Thames, Middlesex TW16 5AQ, Nov 14, 28, Dec 12

and Collectors Fair, South of England Showground, Ardingly, Nr Haywards Heath, West Sussex, Nov 7-8 Love Fairs 01293 690777 www.lovefairs.com Brighton Antiques, Collectables and Vintage Fair, Brighton Racecourse, Freshfield Road, Brighton, East Sussex, BN2 9XZ, Dec 10 Detling Showground Antiques & Vintage Fair, Detling Kent Event Centre Kent Showground, Detling, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 3JF, Nov 11-12 Lingfield Antiques, Collectables and Vintage Fair, Lingfield Park Racecourse, Racecourse Road, Lingfield, Surrey, RH7 6PQ, Nov 26

SOUTH EAST & EAST ANGLIA: including Beds, Cambs, Essex, Hertfordshire, Kent, Norfolk, Suffolk, Surrey, Sussex.

Marcel Fairs 07887648255 www.marcelfairs.co.uk Antique and Collectors Fair, Sarratt Village Hall, The Green, Rickmansworth, Herts, WD3 6AS, Nov 12, Dec 10 Antique and Vintage Fair, Eagle Farm Road, Biggleswade, Bedfordshire, SG18 8JH, Nov 19

Dovehouse Fine Antiques Fair 07952689717 dovehousefineantiquesfairs.com Antiques and Decorative Arts Fair, Dorking Halls, Reigate Road, Dorking, Surrey, RH4 1SG, Nov 19

Rural Magpie 07803 052918 Great Chishill Antiques and Vintage Fair, Village Hall, Hall Lane, Great Chishill, Cambridge SG8 8SH, Nov 5

Grandma’s Attic Antique and Collectors Fairs www.grandmasatticfairs.co.uk Antique and Collectors Fair, The Grange Centre, Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9HD, Nov 5 The Westgate Leisure Centre, Via Ravenna, Chichester, West Sussex, PO19 1RJ, Dec 3 Woking Leisure Centre, Kingfield Road, Woking, Surrey, GU22 9BA Dec 10

SOUTH WEST including Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Gloucestershire, Hampshire, Isle of Wight, Oxfordshire, Somerset, Wiltshire.

IACF 01636 702326 www.iacf.co.uk Ardingly International Antiques

58 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Arun Fairs 07563 589725 Emsworth Antiques and Collectors Fair, Emsworth Community Centre, North Street, Emsworth, Hampshire, PO10 7DD, Nov 12, Dec 10 Continiuity Fairs 01584 873634

www.continuityfairs.co.uk Westpoint, Devon County Show, Exeter, EX5 1DJ, Nov 18-19 Grandma’s Attic Antique and Collectors Fairs www.grandmasatticfairs.co.uk 07960 502508, Allendale Centre, Hanham Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 1AS, Nov 26 IACF 01636 702326 www.iacf.co.uk Antiques, Vintage and Collectors Fair, Royal Bath and West Showground. Shepton Mallet, Somerset, BA4 6QN, Nov 10-12 Mark Carter Militaria and Medals Fair 07871 777062 Yate Leisure Centre, Kennedy Way, near Chipping Sodbury, Gloucestershire, BS37 4DQ, Nov 26 EAST MIDLANDS including Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire, Nottinghamshire, Rutland. Arthur Swallow Fairs 01298 274493 www.asfairs.com Antiques and Home Show Lincolnshire Showground, Lincoln, LN2 2NA, Dec 5 Vintage Flea Market, EXO Centre, Lincolnshire Showground, Lincoln, LN2 2NA, Nov 19 IACF 01636 702326 www.iacf.co.uk Newark International Antique and Collectors Fair, Newark and Nottinghamshire Showground, Newark, Nottinghamshire, NG24 2NY, Dec 7-8 Newark International Antiques Runway Monday, Newark and Notts Showground, Nov 20 Stags Head Events 07583 410862 www.stagsheadevents.co.uk Antiques and Collectors Fair, Coalville Leisure Centre, Leicestershire, LE67 3FE, Nov 18 WEST MIDLANDS including Birmingham, Coventry, Herefordshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire, Worcestershire

CADA Fair 07855 443913 Compton Verney Art Gallery and Park, Warwickshire, CV35 9HZ, Nov 17-19 Classic Antique Fairs 07395 056393 www.classicantiquefairs.co.uk Antique and Arts Fair, National Exhibition Centre, Hall 8, Birmingham, Dec 1-3 WALES Derwen Antique Fairs 07790 293367 The National Botanic Garden of Wales Antiques Fair and Vintage Market, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire SA32 8HG, Nov 4-5 Mischievous Cow Events 01269 826522 Crickhowell Vintage, Antique and Makers Market, Clarence Hall, Beaufort Street, Crickhowell, Powys, NP8 1BN, Dec 2 NORTH including Cheshire, Cumbria, Lancashire, Northumberland, Tyne and Wear, Yorkshire. V&A Fairs 01244 659887 www.vandafairs.com Nantwich Civic Hall Antique and Collectors Fair, Civic Hall Nantwich Beam Street, Nantwich, Cheshire, CW5 5DG, Nov 16 SCOTLAND Antique, Vintage and Collectors Fair 07960 198409 Bellahouston Leisure Centre, 31 Bellahouston Drive, Glasgow, G52 1HH, Nov 19, Dec 10 Antique Fleamarket Fair 07760 660556 BUAS Showground, Springwood Park, Kelso, Scottish Borders, TD5 8LS, Nov 11-12 IRELAND Vintage Ireland +353 85 862 9007 Antiques and Vintage Fair, Royal Marine Hotel Marine Road, Dun Laoghaire, A96 K063 Ireland, Dec 3

J E W E L L E R Y, WAT C H E S & S I LV E R FORTHCOMING AUCTION

J E W E L L E RY, WATC H E S & O B J E C T S O F V E RT U TUESDAY 28 NOVEMBER ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 020 7016 1700 O R E M A I L J E W E L L E RY @ N O O N A N S .CO. U K

T H U R S D AY 2 3 RD N O V E M B E R

FINE ART & ANTIQUES

T H U R S D AY 3 0 T H N O V E M B E R We are now accepting entries for our June & July auctions. Get in touch for a complimentary auction estimate.

FORTHCOMING AUCTIONS Thursday 23rd June 9.30am

Thursday 30th June 9.30am

Monday to Wednesday 10am - 5pm prior to each sale at our showroom in Berkshire.

ALL ENQUIRIES 0207 431 9445 info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk www.dawsonsauctions.co.uk

Blancpain 18ct Rose Gold Villeret Semainier Grande Date Jours Watch. Sold for £9,100

A CARVED EMERALD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH ATTRIBUTED TO BOUCHERON, CIRCA 1925 ESTIMATE £10,000–£15,000

COTSWOLD AUCTIONEERS & VALUERS SPECIALISTS IN SINGLE-OWNER COLLECTIONS NATIONWIDE VALUATIONS & ADVICE

10-12 Cotswold Business Village, London Road, Moreton-in-Marsh, GL56 0JQ 01608 695695 enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com www.kinghamsauctioneers.com

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 59

AUCTION Calendar Because this list is compiled in advance, alterations or cancellations to the auctions listed can occur and it is not possible to notify readers of the changes. We strongly advise anyone wishing to attend an auction especially if they have to travel any distance, to telephone the organiser to confirm the details given.

LONDON: Inc. Greater London Adam Partridge The London Saleroom, The Auction Room, Station Parade, Ickenham Road, West Ruislip HA4 7DL, 01895 621991 www.adampartridge.co.uk Antiques and Fine Art, Nov 14 Bonhams 101 New Bond St, London, W1S 1SR, 020 7447 7447 www.bonhams.com The Marsh Collection: Art for the Literati (Part II), Nov 2 Fine Chinese Art, Nov 2 Fine Japanese Art, Nov 2 Devotion: Culture, Country and Charity - Chinese Art Sold for the Benefit of a Charitable Foundation, Nov 2 The Golden Age of Motoring, Nov 2 The Marsh Collection: Art for the Literati (Online Only - Part II), ends Nov 6 Text Me If You Can: Contemporary Editions X Woolwich Print Fair (Online), ends Nov 9 Islamic and Indian Art, Nov 14 Modern and Contemporary South Asian Art, Nov 14 Modern and Contemporary Middle Eastern Art, Nov 15 Cornelis Paulus van Pauwvliet: An Important Dutch Collection, Nov 21 Modern British Art, Nov 22 Fine and Decorative Arts, Nov 28 Fine Clocks, Nov 29 The Grand Tour Sale, Nov 29 Old Master Paintings, Dec 6 500 Years of European Ceramics, Dec 6 London Jewels, Dec 7 Bonhams Montpelier St, Knightsbridge, London, SW7 1HH, 020 7393 3900 www.bonhams.com Fine Books and Manuscripts, Nov 14 Knightsbridge Jewels Online, Nov 3-15 British and European Art, Nov 15 Antique Arms and Armour, Nov 22 Watches and Wristwatches, Nov 22 Sporting Guns, Rifles and Vintage

60 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Firearms, Nov 23 Modern and British Art, Nov 29 20th-Century Decorative Arts, Dec 5 Prints and Multiples, Dec 6 Chiswick Auctions Barley Mow Centre Chiswick, London, W4 4PH 020 8992 4442 www.chiswickauctions.co.uk Asian Art I, Nov 6 Asian Art II, Nov 7 Fine Oriental Rugs and Carpets, Nov 14 Watches, Nov 14 20th-Century Art: Paintings and Original Works on Paper, Nov 22 19th and 20th-Century Photographs, Nov 30 Chiswick Auctions 1Roslin Square, Roslin Road, London, W3 8DH www.chiswickauctions.co.uk Worldwide Stamps and Postal History, Nov 23 Books and Works on Paper, Nov 29 Christie’s 8 King St, St. James’s, SW1Y 6QT, 020 7839 9060 www.christies.com Christie’s London Staff Auction (Online), ends Nov 7 The History of Western Music: Manuscripts from the Schøyen Collection (Online), ends Nov 8 Modern and Contemporary Middle Eastern Art, Part I, Nov 8 Modern and Contemporary Middle Eastern Art, Part II (Online), ends Nov 9 Jewels: The London Edit (Online), Nov 14-28 Fine and Rarest Wines and Spirits, Nov 30-Dec 1 The Sam Josefowitz Collection: Graphic Masterpieces by Rembrandt van Rijn, Dec 7 Old Masters Pt 1, Dec 7 Old Masters Pt 2, Dec 8 Elmwood’s 101 Talbot Road London, W11 2AT, 0207 096 8933 www.elmwoods.co.uk None listed for November Forum Auctions 220 Queenstown Road, London SW8 4LP, 020 7871 2640

www.forumauctions.co.uk Fine Books and Works on Paper, Nov 30 Hansons Auctioneers The Normansfield Theatre, 2A Langdon Park, Teddington TW11 9PS, 0207 018 9300 www.hansonsauctioneers.com None listed Lyon & Turnbull Mall Galleries, The Mall, St. James’s, London SW1Y 5AS, 0207 930 9115 www.lyonandturnbull.com Fine Asian and Islamic Works of Art (Live and Online) Nov 3 Form Through Time (Live and Online) Nov 22 Noonans 16 Bolton St, Mayfair, W1J 8BQ, 020 7016 1700 www.noonans.co.uk Orders, Decorations, Medals and Militaria, Nov 8, Dec 6 Coins and Historic Medals, Nov 14-15 Selections from the Isaac Rudman West Indies Collection, Nov 22 Jewellery, Silver and Objects of Vertu, Nov 28 Watches, Nov 28 World Banknotes, Nov 30 Phillips 30 Berkeley Square, London, W1J 6EX, 020 7318 4010 www.phillips.com Photographs, Nov 21 Wired: Online Auction, Nov 23-30 Olympia Auctions 25 Blythe Road, London W14 0PD, 020 7806 5541 www.olympiaauctions.com Chinese and Japanese Works of Art, Nov 8 Indian, Islamic, South East Asian and Himalayan Works of Art, Nov 8 European Works of Art, Nov 22 Antique Arms, Armour and Militaria, Dec 6 Roseberys Knights Hill, Norwood, London, SE27 0JD, 020 8761 2522 www.roseberys.co.uk Chinese, Japanese & South East Asian Art, Nov 7 Design, Nov 15 Old Master, British and European Pictures, Nov 22

Prints and Multiples, Nov 23 Modern British and 20th Century Art, Nov 29 Jewellery and Watches, Dec 6 Fine and Decorative, Dec 7 Sotheby’s New Bond St., London W1A 2AA, 020 7293 5000 www.sothebys.com Important Chinese Art, Nov 1 Classic Design: Furniture, Clocks, Silver and Ceramics, ends Nov 7 Design 17/20: Furniture, Silver and Ceramics, ends Nov 8 China/ 5000 (Online), Nov 1-8 Irish Art (Online), Nov 15-21 Modern British and Irish Art, Nov 21 Modern British Art (Online), Nov 15-22 Timeline Auctions 23-24 Berkeley Square London W1J 6HE www.timelineauctions.co.uk 020 7129 1494 Ancient Art, Antiquities, Natural History & Coins, Dec 5 SOUTH EAST AND EAST ANGLIA: Inc. Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Kent, Norfolk, Suffolk, Surrey, Sussex Bishop and Miller 19 Charles Industrial Estate, Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 5AH, 01449 673088 bishopandmillerauctions.co.uk Remarkable Rooms, Nov 15 Dr Atomica’s Journey into Cool with Audio and Music, Nov 22 Militaria and Medals, Dec 6 Bishop and Miller Unit 12 Manor Farm, Glandford, Holt, Norfolk, NR25 7JP 01263 687342 bishopandmillerauctions.co.uk The Collector, Nov 29 Jewellery, Watches and Silver, Dec 13 Bellmans Newpound, Wisborough Green, West Sussex, RH14 0AZ, 01403 700858 www.bellmans.co.uk Modern British and 20th-Century Art, Nov 21 Antiques and Interiors, Nov 22-23

Burstow & Hewett The Auction Gallery, Lower Lake, Battle, East Sussex,TN33 0AT, 01424 772 374 www.burstowandhewett.co.uk Homes and Interiors, Nov 1-2, Nov 30 Antique Sale, Nov 16 Design, Nov 16 Fine Art and Sculpture, Nov 16 Luxury Watches, Fine Jewellery and Silver, Nov 24 The Canterbury Auction Galleries 40 Station Road West, Canterbury, Kent, CT2 8AN, 01227 763337 canterburyauctiongalleries.com Fine Art and Antiques, Nov 25-26 Catherine Southon Auctioneers Farleigh Court Golf Club, Old Farleigh Road, Selsdon, Surrey, CR6 9PE, 0208 468 1010 www.catherinesouthon.co.uk November Antiques and Jewellery Auction, Nov 15 Cheffins Clifton House, Clifton Road, Cambridge, CB1 7EA 01223 213343, www.cheffins.co.uk The Interiors Sale, Nov 9 The Jewellery, Silver and Watches Sale, Nov 23 The Fine Sale Including Asian Art, Dec 3-5 The Wine Sale, Dec 8 Ewbank’s London Rd, Send, Woking, Surrey, 01483 223 101 www.ewbankauctions.co.uk Vintage Posters, Nov 3 Pre-Loved, Vintage and Antiques, Nov 5 The Steve Oxenrider James Bond Collection Part 1 (Day 1), Nov 23 The Steve Oxenrider James Bond Collection, Part 1 (Day 2), Nov 24 Jewellery, Watches and Coins, Dec 6 Silver and Fine Art, Dec 7 Excalibur Auctions Limited Unit 16 Abbots Business Park Primrose Hill Kings Langley, Hertfordshire, WD4 8FR 020 3633 0913 www.excaliburauctions.com Entertainment Memorabilia and Collectors’ Cavern Auctions, Nov 11-12 Toys and Model Railways Collectors Sale, Nov 23 Marvel, DC & Independent Comic Books, Dec 9

Gorringes 15 North Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 2PE, 01273 472503 www.gorringes.co.uk Mid Century Furniture and Weekly, Nov 6 Vinyl and Weekly, Nov 13 Militaria and Medals and Weekly, Nov 20, Coins and Bank Notes and Weekly, Nov 27 John Nicholson’s Longfield, Midhurst Road, Fernhurst, Haslemere, Surrey, GU27 3HA, 01428 653727 www.johnnicholsons.com General Auction, Nov 4 Lacy Scott & Knight 10 Risbygate St, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, IP33 3AA, 01284 748 623 www.lskauctioncentre.co.uk Homes and Interiors, Nov 11, Dec 2 Coins, Banknotes and Tokens, Nov 14 Affordable Jewellery and Watches, Nov 14 20th-Century Art and Design, Dec 8 Medals, Militaria and Country Pursuits, Dec 8 Wine, Port and Spirits, Dec 8 Fine Art and Antiques, Dec 9 Lockdales Auctioneers 52 Barrack Square, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP5 3RF 01473 627110 www.lockdales.com The Fine Sale, Nov 3-4 Coins, Medals, Militaria and Weapons, Nov 14-15 The Banknote Sale, Nov 28 Paper Collectables, Toys and Antiques, Dec 5 Mander Auctioneers The Auction Centre Assington Road Newton, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 0QX, 01787 211847 www.manderauctions.co.uk Fine Art and Interiors, Nov 11 Parker Fine Art Auctions Hawthorn House, East Street, Farnham, Surrey, GU9 7SX, 01252 203020 www.parkerfineartauctions.com Fine Art, Nov 2, Dec 7 Reeman Dansie 8 Wyncolls Road, Severalls Business Park, Colchester, Essex, CO4 9HU, 01206 754754 www.reemandansie.com

Royalty, Antiques and Fine Art Sale, Nov 7-8 Classic Cars and Vehicles Sale, Nov 10 Specialist Collectors’ Sale, Nov 28-30 Sworders Fine Art Auctioneers Cambridge Road, Stansted Mountfitchet, Essex, CM24 8GE, 01279 817778 www.sworder.co.uk The Dennison Collection of Arms and Armour, Nov 2 Asian Art, Nov 3 Homes and Interiors (Online), Nov 14, Dec 5 Fine Jewellery, Watches and Designer Bag, Nov 21 Jewellery, Gifts and Luxury Goods, Nov 29 Toovey’s Antique & Fine Art Auctioneers Spring Gardens, Washington, West Sussex, RH20 3BS, 01903 891955 www.tooveys.com Prints, Maps and Posters, Decorative Pictures, Nov 1 (am) Silver and Plate. Jewellery, Nov 1 (pm) Furniture, Nov 2 (am) Collectors’ Items, Works of Art and Light Fittings, Needleworks, Textiles and Clothing, Rugs and Carpets, Nov 2 (pm) Asian and Islamic Ceramics and Works of Art, Nov 9 (am) Stamps, Single Owner Collections, Postcards, Cigarette and Trade Cards, Photographs, Autographs and Ephemera, Nov 15 (pm) Fine Art, Wines and Spirits, Nov 29 (am) Silver and Plate, Jewellery, Nov 29 (pm) Furniture, Nov 30 (am) Objects of Vertu, Tribal Art, Antiquities, Natural History, Collectors’ Items, Works of Art and Light Fittings, Rugs and Carpets, Nov 30 (pm) Wristwatches and Pocketwatches, Clocks and Barometers, Cameras and Scientific Instruments, Dec 7 (am) T.W. Gaze Diss Auction Rooms, Roydon Road, Diss, Norfolk,IP22 4LN, 01379 650306. www.twgaze.com Antiques and Interiors, Nov 3, 10, 17, 24 Modern Design, Nov 9 Sound and Vision, Nov 14 Clocks and Watches, Nov 21

W&H Peacock Auctioneers Eastcotts Park, Wallis Way Bedford, Bedfordshire MK42 0PE, 01234 266 366 www.peacockauction.co.uk Mid-Century Design, Nov 17 Sporting Guns & Antique Arms, Dec 7 SOUTH WEST: Inc. Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Gloucestershire, Hampshire, Isle of Wight, Oxfordshire, Somerset, Wiltshire Adam Partridge The Devon Saleroom, The Antique Village Station Road Hele, Exeter EX5 4PW 01392 719826 www.adampartridge.co.uk Fine Art, Antiques and Collectors’ Items, Dec 4 Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood St. Edmund’s Court, Okehampton Street, Exeter EX4 1DU, O1392 41310 www.bhandl.co.uk The Silver, Jewellery and Luxury Goods Auction, Nov 1 British Bespoke Auctions The Old Boys School, Gretton Rd, Winchcombe, Cheltenham, GL54 5EE 01242 603005 www.bespokeauctions.co.uk Fine Art - The E. W. Towler Collection of Sporting Art with Antiques from Sudeley Castle, Nov 17 Antiques and Collectables (Timed), Nov 10-19 Chippenham Auction Rooms Unit H, The Old Laundry. Ivy Road, Chippenham, Wiltshire. SN15 1SB, 01249 444544 chippenhamauctionrooms.co.uk Petroliana, Nov 4 Chorley’s Prinknash Abbey Park, Near Cranham, Gloucestershire, GL4 8EU, 01452 344499 www.chorleys.com Modern Art and Design, Nov 21 The Christmas Sale: Jewellery, Watches, Silver and Gifts (Timed Online) ends Dec 10 David Lay Auctions Penzance Auction House , Alverton, Penzance, Cornwall 01736 361414, TR18 4RE www.davidlay.co.uk Asian Antiques, Nov 2-3 Antiques and Interiors, Nov 16 ANTIQUE COLLECTING 61

David Lay Auctions Lay’s Auctioneers, Church Row, Lanner Redruth, Cornwall, 01736 361414, TR16 6ET www.davidlay.co.uk Rare Books & Works on Paper, Nov 30 Jewellery and Luxury Fashion, Dec 7 Princess Diana, the Jacques Azagury personal collection, Dec 7 Dawsons Unit 8 Cordwallis Business Park, Clivemont Rd, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 4BU, 01628 944100 www.dawsonsauctions.co.uk The November Jewellery, Watches and Silver Auction, Nov 23 The November Fine Art and Antiques Auction, Nov 30 Dominic Winter Mallard House, Broadway Lane, South Cerney, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 5UQ, 01285 860006 www.dominicwinter.co.uk Printed Books, Maps and Documents, Nov 15 Photographs, Autographs and Documents, Nov 22 Aviation and Military History, Medals and Militaria, John Procter Airship Memorabilia, Nov 23 Dreweatts Donnington Priory Newbury, Berkshire, RG14 2JE 01635 553 553 www.dreweatts.com Interiors (Live Online), Nov 1 Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art Pt 1 (Live Online), Nov 8 Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art Pt 2 and Islamic Ceramics and Works of Art (Live Online), Nov 9 Fine Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Objects of Vertu (Live Online), Nov 16 Wine, Champagne, Port and Spirits (Live Online), Nov 21 Art on a Postcard Charity Auction n Aid of the Hepatitis C Trust (Timed Online), Nov 9-23 Fine Furniture, Sculpture, Carpets, Ceramics and Works of Art Pts 1 and 2 (Live Online), Nov 28, 29 Art Online, Dec 8 Duke’s Brewery Square, Dorchester, Dorset, DT1 1GA, 01305 265080

62 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

www.dukes-auctions.com Medals and Militaria, Nov 9 Asian Art, Nov 29 Fine Jewellery, Watches and Luxury Goods, Dec 7 200 Years, Dec 8 East Bristol Auctions Unit 1, Hanham Business Park, Memorial Road, Hanham, BS15 3JE, 0117 967 1000 www.eastbristol.co.uk None listed Hansons Auctioneers 49 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxford, OX16 5NB, 01295 817777 www.hansonsauctioneers.co.uk November Silver, Jewellery, Watches, Fine Art & Antiques Auction, Nov 4 Harper Field Auctioneers The Stroud Auction Saleroom Ebley Road, Stonehouse, Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL10 2LN 01453 873800 www.harperfield.co.uk November Auction Including Guns and Weapons, Medals and Militaria, Ceramics, Glass, Classic Cars and Motorbikes, Taxidermy and Sporting, Motoring and Transport, Nov 8-9 December Auction Including Jewellery, Silver, Watches, Clocks, Coins, Bijouterie, Fine Wines and Spirits, Dec 6-7 Kinghams 10-12 Cotswold Business Village, London Road, Moreton-in-Marsh, Gloucester, GL56 0JQ, 01608 695695 www.kinghamsauctioneers.com Jewellery, Watches and Designer Goods, Nov 17 Silver and Objects of Vertu, Nov 24 Lawrences Auctioneers Ltd The Linen Yard, South St, Crewkerne, Somerset, TA18 8AB, 01460 703041 www.lawrences.co.uk Militaria, Coins and Medals, Nov 23 Mallams Oxford Bocardo House, St Michael’s St, Oxford, OX1 2EB 01865 241358 www.mallams.co.uk

Jewellery, Watches and Silver, Nov 15-16 Modern Art and Design, Dec 6-7 Mallams Cheltenham 26 Grosvenor St, Cheltenham. Gloucestershire, GL52 2SG 01242 235 712 www.mallams.co.uk Asian and Islamic Art, Nov 8 Mallams Abingdon Dunmore Court, Wootten Road, Abingdon, OX13 6BH, 01235 462840 www.mallams.co.uk The Interiors Sale, Nov 20 Moore Allen & Innocent Burford Road Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 5RH, 01285 646050 www.mooreallen.co.uk Vintage and Antique Furniture and Home Interiors, Nov 8-9, Dec 6-7 Timed Vintage And Antique Furniture Auction (Timed), Nov 10-15, Dec 8-13 Philip Serrell Barnards Green Rd, Malvern, Worcestershire. WR14 3LW, 01684 892314 www.serrell.com Interiors, Nov 2 Fine Art and Antiques, Nov 23 Special Auction Services Plenty Close, Newbury, Berkshire, RG14 5RL 01635 580 595 www.specialauctionservices. Antiques and Collectables, Nov 7 Jewellery , Coins and Silver, Nov 16 Military and Collectables, Nov 21-22 Music and Entertainment, Nov 28 Pre-Loved Christmas Antiques and Collectables, Dec 5 Dolls and Teddy Bears, Dec 6-7 Cotswold Auction Company Bankside Saleroom, Love Lane, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 1YG, 01285 642420 www.cotswoldauction.co.uk Toys, Dolls, Models, Antiques and Interiors, Nov 28-29 Cotswold Auction Company Chapel Walk Saleroom, Chapel Walk Cheltenham, Gloucesterhire,

GL50 3DS, 01242 256363 www.cotswoldauction.co.uk None listed in November/early December The Pedestal The Dairy, Stonor Park, Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire RG9 6HF, 01491 522733 www.thepedestal.com Fine and Decorative Interiors, Nov 26 Wessex Auction Rooms Westbrook Far, Draycot Cerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN15 5LH, 01249 720888 www.wessexauctionrooms.co.uk Vinyl Records and Music Memorabilia, Nov 2-3 Antiques, Collectables and Furniture, Nov 11, 25 Toys, Nov 30-Dec 1 Coins, Dec 7 Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Pocket Watches, Dec 8 Woolley & Wallis 51-61 Castle Street, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SU, 01722 424500 www.woolleyandwallis.co.uk Silver and Objects of Vertu, Nov 1-2 Asian Art, Chinese Paintings and Japanese Works of Art, Nov 14-16, Medals and Coins, Arms and Armour, Nov 28 British Art Pottery, Nov 29 Wotton Auction Rooms Tabernacle Rd, Wotton-underEdge, Gloucestershire, GL12 7EB, 01453 708260 www.wottonauctionrooms.co.uk Antiques and General auction, Nov 13-15 EAST MIDLANDS: Inc. Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire, Nottinghamshire, Sheffield Bamfords The Derby Auction House, Chequers Road, Derby, DE21 6EN, 01332 210 000 www.bamfords-auctions.co.uk Antiques, Interiors, Estates and Collectables Auction, Nov 8, 22, Dec 6 Toys For The Collector - The November Toy, Juvenalia, Advertising and Collectors Auction, Nov 21

Bamfords The Bakewell Auction House, Peak Shopping Village, Chatsworth Road, Rowsley, DE4 2JE, 01629 730 920 www.bamfords-auctions.co.uk The Bakewell Country Home Interiors and Collectors Auction Including Furniture, Ceramics, Textiles, Jewellery, Contemporary Design, Nov 1, 15, 29 Batemans Ryhall Rd, Stamford, Lincolnshire, PE9 1XF, 01780 766 466 www.batemans.com Jewellery and Watches, Silver and Gold, Coins & Banknotes, Nov 3 Fine Art, Antiques Including Vintage Champagne, Wine and Spirits, Dec 2 Gildings Auctioneers The Mill, Great Bowden Road, Market Harborough, LE16 7DE 01858 410414 www.gildings.co.uk Antiques & Collectors Nov 7, Jewellery & Watches, Nov 28 Golding Young & Mawer The Bourne Auction Rooms, Spalding Road, Bourne, Lincolnshire PE10 9LE 01778 422686 www.goldingyoung.com Bourne Collective Sale, Nov 1-2, Nov 29-30 Golding Young & Mawer The Grantham Auction Rooms, Old Wharf Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire NG31 7AA, 01476 565118 www.goldingyoung.com Grantham Collective Sale, Nov 22-23 Golding Young & Mawer The Lincoln Auction Rooms, Thos Mawer House, Station Road North Hykeham, Lincoln LN6 3QY, 01522 524984 www.goldingyoung.com Lincoln Collective Sale, Nov 8-9, Dec 6-7 Lincoln Fine Art, Nov 15 Hansons Heage Lane, Etwall, Derbyshire, DE65 6LS 01283 733988 www.hansonsauctioneers.co.uk WWI Auction, Nov 7 Sporting Auction Nov 14 Historica, Coins & Banknotes Auction, Nov 17 John Taylors Auction Rooms The Wool Mart, Kidgate

Louth, Lincolnshire LN11 9EZ 01507 611107 www.johntaylors.com Antiques, Collectables and Contemporary, Nov 14 Gold, Silver and Jewellery, Dec 5 WEST MIDLANDS: Inc. Birmingham, Coventry, Herefordshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire Cuttlestones Ltd Pinfold Lane, Penkridge Staffordshire ST19 5AP, 01785 714905 www.cuttlestones.co.uk Antiques and Interiors, Nov 9, 23, Dec 7 Fellows Augusta House, 19 Augusta Street, Hockley, Birmingham, B18 6JA , 0121 212 2131 www.fellows.co.uk Jewellery Day One, Nov 1, 14, Dec 5 Jewellery Day Two, Nov 2, 15, Dec 6 Pawnbrokers, Jewellery and Watches, Nov 2, 16, Dec 7 The Luxury Watch Sale, Nov 16 Silver and Plated Ware, Monies, Medals and Militaria, Nov 22 Fine Jewellery, Nov 30 Watches and Watch Accessories, Dec 6 Fieldings Mill Race Lane, Stourbridge, DY8 1JN 01384 444140 www.fieldingsauctioneers.co.uk Toys, Model Railway and Comics, Nov 6 Halls Bowmen Way, Battlefield, Shrewsbury, Shropshire, SY4 3DR 01743 450700 www.hallsgb.com/fine-art.com Asian Art, Nov 1 Books, Coins and Stamps, Nov 15 Fine Art, Antiques and Jewellery, Dec 6 Hansons Auctioneers Bishton Hall, Wolseley Bridge, Stafford, ST18 0XN, 0208 9797954 www.hansonsauctioneers.co.uk November Fine Jewellery, Silver and Watches Auction, Nov 3 November Whisky and Spirits Auction, Nov 22 Trevanion The Joyce Building, Station Rd, Whitchurch, Shropshire,

SY13 1RD, 01928 800 202 www.trevanion.com Fine Art and Antiques, Nov 22 NORTH: Inc. Cheshire, Co. Durham, Cumbria, Humberside, Lancashire, Greater Manchester, Northumberland, Tyne & Wear, Sheffield, Yorkshire Adam Partridge Withyfold Drive, Macclesfield, Cheshire, SK10 2BD 01625 431 788 www.adampartridge.co.uk Harry Ousey: Artist Studio Sale, Nov 7 Asian Art, Decorative Arts and Musical Instruments, Nov 8-10 Boutique, Silver, Jewellery & Watches, Toys, Wines and Spirits, Dec 6-8 Adam Partridge The Liverpool Saleroom, 18 Jordan Street, Liverpool, L1 OBP, 01625 431 788 www.adampartridge.co.uk Militaria, Silver and Jewellery with Antiques & Collectors’ Items, Nov 1-2 Toys and Wines & Spirits with Antiques & Collectors’ Items, Dec 6-7 Anderson and Garland Crispin Court, Newbiggin Lane, Westerhope, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE5 1BF, 0191 432 1911 www.andersonandgarland.com Homes and Interiors, Nov 14 Fine Silver Auction, Nov 28 Fine Jewellery and Watches, Nov 29 Winter Country House and Fine Interiors Auction, Nov 29-30 Capes Dunn The Auction Galleries, 40 Station Road, Heaton Mersey, SK4 3QT. 0161 273 1911 www.capesdunn.com Interiors, Vintage and Modern Furniture, Nov 13, 27 European and Oriental Ceramics and Glass, Nov 14 Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Gold Coins, Nov 28 Hawleys Auctioneers, Albion House, Westgate, North Cave, Brough, Beverley, East Yorkshire, HU15 2NJ 01482 868193 www.hawleys.info Antiques and Fine Art, Nov 25-26

David Duggleby Auctioneers The Gallery Saleroom, Scarborough, North Yorkshire, YO11 1XN, 01723 507 111 www.davidduggleby.com Toys and Models, Nov 3 Garden, Asset and Commercial, Nov 8 Jewellery and Watches, Nov 16 The Silver Sale, Nov 16 Decorative Antiques and Collectors, Nov 17 Affordable Art, Nov 18 The Furnishings Sale, Furniture, Interiors and Clocks, Nov 18 Maritime, Scientific Instruments and Cameras, Nov 24 Fossils, Minerals and Natural Sciences, Nov 24 The Winter Art Sale, Dec 8 Duggleby Stephenson The Saleroom, York Auction Centre, Murton, York YO19 5GF, 01904 393 300 www.dugglebystephenson.com Collectors and Clearance, Nov 22 Jewellery and Watches, Nov 30 The Country House Sale, Dec 1 Elstob Ripon Business Park, Charter Road, Ripon, North Yorkshire HG4 1AJ, 01677 333003 www.elstob.co.uk Silver, Fine Art and Antiques, Nov 8, Dec 6 Gerrards Auction Rooms St Georges Rd, St Annes Lancashire, FY82AE, 01253 725476 www.gerrardsauctionrooms.com Fine Art, Antiques, Jewellery, Gold and Silver, Porcelain and Quality Collectables, Nov 23-24 Omega Auctions Ltd Sankey Valley Industrial Estate, NewtonLe-Willows, Merseyside WA12 8DN, 01925 873040 www.omegaauctions.co.uk Omega Auctions Live From Record Planet - Den Bosch, Nov 11 Audio Equipment and Music Memorabilia, Nov 21 Rare and Collectable Vinyl Records, Nov 22 Showcase Sale - Guitars, Music Memorabilia and Rare Vinyl Records, Nov 28 TV, Film, Sporting Memorabilia and Collectables, Dec 5 Ryedale Auctioneers Cooks Yard, New Road Kirkbymoorside, North Yorkshire, YO62 6DZ, 01751 431 544 ANTIQUE COLLECTING 63

www.ryedaleauctioneers.com Monthly Antiques, Interiors and Collectables, Nov 3-4, Nov 30-Dec 2 Collectables and Militaria, Nov 17-18 Country House Sale, Dec 8 Sheffield Auction Gallery Windsor Road, Heeley, Sheffield, S8 8UB, 0114 281 6161 www.sheffieldauctiongallery.com Specialist Collectable Toys, Nov 9 Dec 7 Silver, Jewellery and Watches Plus Collectable Penknives, Nov 9, 23 Antiques and Collectables Auction, Nov 10, 24 Football Programmes and Sporting Memorabilia, Nov 23 Fine Silver, Jewellery and Watches, Dec 7 Antiques and Fine Art, Dec 7 Shelby’s Auctioneers Ltd Unit 1B Westfield House, Leeds LS13 3HA, 0113 250 2626 www.shelbysauctioneers.net Antiques and General Sale, (Online) Nov 14, 28 Tennants Auctioneers The Auction Centre, Harmby Road, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5SG, 01969 623780 www.tennants.co.uk Antiques and Interiors, Nov 3, 17 British, European and Sporting Art, Nov 11 Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver, Nov 11 Autumn Fine Sale, Nov 11 Costume, Accessories and Textiles, Nov 17 Coins and Banknotes, Nov 22 Fine Wine and Whisky, Dec 1 Antiques and Interiors, including Beswick & Border Fine Art, Dec 2 Militaria and Ethnographica, Dec 6 Toys and Models, Sporting and Fishing, Dec 8 Thomson Roddick The Auction Centre, Marconi Road, Burgh Road Industrial Estate, Carlisle, Cumbria, CA2 7NA, 01228 535 288 www.thomsonroddick.com Fine Art and Antique Sale of Ceramics, Jewellery, Watches, Coins, Silver, Glass, Miniatures, Oriental Ceramics, Works of

64 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Art, Bronzes, Metal Work and Contemporary Works of Art, Nov 14 Antiquarian and Collectable Books and Related Items, Nov 23 Vectis Auctions Ltd Fleck Way, Thornaby, Stockton on Tees, TS17 9JZ, 01642 750616 www.vectis.co.uk Dolls and Teddy Bear Sale, Nov 1, Dec 4 Specialist Diecast Sale, Nov 2, Dec 5 General Toy Sale, Nov 7, 14, 16 Dec 6-7 Specialist Diecast Sale, Nov 9, Dec 5 Vinyl, Music and Associated Items Sale, Nov 15 Military, Civilian Figures, Equipment and Accessories Sale, Nov 21 Model Train Sale, Nov 23, Dec 14 TV and Film Related Sale, Nov 28, Dec 13 Retro, Action Man and Lego Sale, Dec 11 Matchbox Sale, Dec 12 Warren and Wignall The Mill, Earnshaw Bridge, Leyland, Lancashire, PR26 8PH 01772 369884 www.warrenandwignall.co.uk General, Antiques and Interiors, Nov 1, Dec 6 Collectors Sale, Nov 8, 22 Wilkinson’s Auctioneers The Old Salesroom, 28 Netherhall Road, Doncaster, South Yorkshire, DN1 2PW, 01302 814 884 wilkinsons-auctioneers.co.uk Cork Screws, Treen, Period Oak and Country Furniture, Dec 2-3 Wilson55 Victoria Gallery, Market St, Nantwich, Cheshire CW5 5DG, 01270 623 878 www.wilson55.com Firearms, Shotguns, Airguns, Arms and Militaria, Nov 8 Fine Jewellery and Watches, Nov 30 SCOTLAND Bonhams 22 Queen St, Edinburgh, EH2 1JX 0131 225 2266 www.bonhams.com Fine Whisky and Spirits, Nov 27-Dec 5

Lyon & Turnbull 33 Broughton Place, Edinburgh. EH1 3RR, 0131 557 8844 www.lyonandturnbull.com Five Centuries (Live and Online), Nov 15 Jewellery (Live and Online), Dec 6 Watches (Live and Online), Dec 6 Scottish Paintings and Sculpture (Live and Online), Dec 7 McTears Auctioneers 31 Meiklewood Road, Glasgow, G51 4GB, 0141 810 2880 www.mctears.co.uk Coins and Banknotes, Nov 1 Jewellery, Nov 1, 23 Watches, Nov 1 Antiques and Interiors, Nov 2, 16, 30 Whisky, Nov 8 The Scottish Contemporary Art Auction, Nov 9 Silver and Luxury Accessories, Nov 22 19th and 20th Century, Nov 22 Asian Art, Nov 23 Thomson Roddick The Auction Centre, 22 Smith Street, Ayr, KA7 1TF 01292 267681 www.thompsonroddick.com None listed in November Thomson Roddick The Auction Centre, Irongray Road Industrial Estate, Dumfries, DG2 0JE, 01387 721 635 www.thompsonroddick.com Home Furnishings and Interiors, Nov 2, 14, 28 Thomson Roddick The Auction Centre, 118 Carnethie Street, Edinburgh, EH24 9AL 0131 440 2448 www.thompsonroddick.com The Edinburgh Collector’s Auction of Toys, Postcards, Stamps, Coins, Whisky, Wine and Spirits, Medals and Militaria etc., Dec 7

Ceramics, Glass, Paintings, Furniture, Clocks, Works of Art, Books, Sporting Memorabilia, Nov 22 Jones & Llewelyn Unit B, Beechwood Trading Estate, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire, SA19 7HR, 01558 823 430 www.jonesandllewelyn.com General Sale, Nov 4, 18, Dec 2 Rogers Jones & Co 17 Llandough Trading Estate, Penarth, Cardiff, CF11 8RR, 02920 708125 www.rogersjones.co.uk Jewellery and Collectables, Nov 3 The Welsh Sale, Nov 18 Selections, Nov 18 Fine Art and Interiors, Dec 1 Pre-Christmas Auction: Jewellery and Watches, Dec 8 Rogers Jones & Co Colwyn Bay Saleroom, 33 Abergele Road, Colwyn Bay, Conwy, North Wales LL29 7RU, 01492 532176 www.rogersjones.co.uk None listed IRELAND Adam’s

26, Stephens Green, Dublin 2, D02 X665, Ireland 00 353 1 6760261 www.adams.ie Mid-Century Modern, Nov 7 Fine Asian Art, Nov 27 Fine Jewellery and Watches, Dec 5 Important Irish Art, Dec 6 Fonsie Mealy’s

WALES

Chatsworth Auction Rooms, Chatsworth St., Castlecomer, Co. Kilkenny, Ireland 00 353 56 4441229 www.fonsiemealy.ie None listed in November

Anthemion Auctions, 15 Norwich Road, Cardiff, CF23 9AB., 029 2047 2444 www.anthemionauction.com General Sale, Nov 1 Fine Art Sale of Jewellery, Silver,

Sean Eacrett Auctions, Ballyshaneduff, Ballybrittas, Co. Laois, Ireland, 00 353 (0)57 8626290 www.seaneacrettauctions.ie Fine Art Nov 18

LENNOX CATO ANTIQUES & WORKS OF ART EST: 1978

•WANTED• ~ WANTED ~

for epic East Yorkshire Georgian townhouse restoration.

For East Yorkshire town house renovation.

Labelled/ stamped branded furniture from Georgian to Victorian, eg Thomas Butler, Morgan & Sanders, J Alderman, Ross of Dublin (pictured), Gregory Kane, Wilkinson of Ludgate Hill, Robert James of Bristol, James Winter, W Priest, Samuel Pratt and many others. Tables all types, chairs, bookcases, , Davenport. mirrors etc. Campaign shower. Georgian chamber horseIVexercise chair (pictured) Signed and unusual furniture. Georgian, Regency, William . Sofa / Pembroke / side tables, library furniture / bookcases. Also Victorian campaign chests, armchairs etc. Ross of Dublin, Morgan & Sanders, Williams & Gibton, James Winter, Hill & Millard Unusual to William IV architectural features andGeorgian many others. eg doors, door frames, over door pediments. 18th century

J Alderman. Daws and George Minterspindles recliningand chairs. Shoolbred/ Hamptons staircase handrail needed. Anything/ Cornelius Georgian Smith Victorian with armchairs. or Regency lots of character considered. Marble fire surrounds. Georgian / Regency/ William IV. Bullseyes etc. Exceptional Georgian / Regency fire grates

Rectangular Georgian fanlight.

Sash windows x 4 identical. Georgian reclaimed. Approx 58” high x 36” wide.

Four identical reclaimed Georgian wooden sash windows Wide reclaimed ﬂoorboards. Approx 100 m2. with boxes, 60 highwall x 37orwide. Early decorative oil / gas / electric light fiapprox ttings. Ceiling, table. Early gasoliers. Colza lamps. Gimble lamp.

1 The Square, Church Street, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 5BD 01732 865 988 or 07836233473 cato@lennoxcato.com

www.lennoxcato.com

Roland Ward, VanMarble Ingen fire taxidermy. Human skull. surrounds fromskull. 1750Hippopotamus to 1850ish. White or coloured. Stuffed crocodile / alligator. Bullseyes, William IV styles etc. Brass Regency reeded fire

insert and Victorian griffin grate (pictured)

Quirky architectural features. Regency columns, corbels, marble and stone pieces, over door pediments, folding/rolling multi part Georgian room dividing doors.

Human skull, stuffed crocodile/ alligator.

Victorian canopy shower bath. Decorated toilets etc Unitas, Simplicitas, Deluge etc. Grand tour souvenirs. Decorated basins x 3.

vintagejewellery@yahoo.co.uk ororteltel07958 vintagejewellery@yahoo.co.uk 07958333442 333442

•WANTED• •WANTED•

VINTAGE VINTAGE WRISTWATCHES WRISTWATCHES Omega Seamasters and pre-1980s Omegas in general. Omega Seamasters and pre-1980s Omegas in general.

IWC IWC and and Jaeger Jaeger LeCoultres, LeCoultres,all allstyles. styles.Looking Lookingfor forReversos. Reversos.American Americanmarket marketfilled filled and and 14k 14kpieces piecespossibly, possibly,at atthe theright rightprice. price. Breitling Breitling Top TopTimes, Times,Datoras Datorasand and806 806Navitimers. Navitimers.

Pre-1960s Pre-1960s Rolex Rolex models, models,with withaafocus focusin inpre-war pre-wartanks, tanks,tonneaus tonneausetc. etc. Gold Gold or or silver/steel. silver/steel.Also AlsoWorld WorldWar WarIIRolex Rolex13 13lignes lignesetc. etc.Princes. Princes.

Longines, Tudors and Zeniths, pre-1970. Even basic steel models in nice condition.

All the quirky oddities like Harwoods, Autorists, Wig Wag, Rolls etc, and World War I hunter and semi-hunter All the quirky oddities like Harwoods, Autorists, wristwatches. Wig Wag, Rolls etc, and World War I

and semi-hunter Early, pre-war ladies’hunter watches also wanted bywristwatches. Rolex, Jaeger LeCoultre etc. Prefer 1920s/30s deco styles, earlyby doughnuts also considered. Early, pre-war ladies’ watches alsobut wanted Rolex, Jaeger LeCoultre etc. Prefer 1920s/30s deco styles, but early doughnuts also considered.

Yorkshire based, but often in London and can easily collect nationwide.

vintagejewellery@yahoo.co.uk or tel 07958 333442

PM Antiques & Collectables are a modern and innovative antiques retailer based in Surrey. Specialising in a wide array of collector’s items, including contemporary art, entertainment and memorabilia, vintage toys, decorative ceramics, watches and automobilia.

We Buy & Sell pm-antiques.co.uk Contact us: phil@pm-antiques.co.uk 01932 640113

ADVERTISE TODAY PLEASE CALL CHARLOTTE KETTELL ON 01394 389969

or email: PM_Antiques Charlotte.Kettell@accartbooks.com

PMAntiques2015

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 65

LAST WORD Marc Allum

Marc My Words Like any dedicated collector, Antiques Roadshow’s Marc Allum is horrified when the decorators roll into town

he house is in complete turmoil. Usually, when a home needs redecorating, we move. But, we’ve been living in this one for 10 years, the longest we’ve stayed anywhere, and we like it. So, we’re biting the bullet and working our way through replacing moth-damaged carpets with sisal and re-interpreting some of the decorating schemes. Of course, I love interiors and I also love creating them, too. For us, houses have always been vessels for housing our collections, as well as a place to rest our heads. I’m also a Virgoan and can tell when anything has been moved. Consequently, the thought of taking apart a crammed room fills me with horror.

Generational gallimaufry Of course, in years gone by, interiors originated as complete packages, supplied in full by interior designers such as Thomas Chippendale, who wasn’t just a furniture maker. They looked superb and didn’t need to be contaminated by additional clutter. Other rooms are a generational gallimaufry of acquisition, accidental accumulation and individual influences piled up over time. I’d say that my home is a mixture of these two. Bedrooms are very ‘set pieces’, with main rooms being more of a moveable feast with additional objects sneaking their way into an ever- decreasing availability of space.

Chinoiserie wallpaper I have, of late, discovered that emptying rooms and navigating six-metre rolls of sisal up and down dogleg

66 ANTIQUE COLLECTING

Above In the times of

Thomas Chippendale (1718–1789) interiors were installed as one, as was the case in the Yellow Drawing Room at Harewood House, image courtesy of Harewood House Trust, Michael Beckwith Below right Decorators

can strike dread into the hearts of collectors, image Shutterstock

staircases, is even more stressful than moving. It’s also an area Lisa and I encounter some rare conflict. She has decided that this is the time to replace radiators, change the odd wall light and restyle the room in chinoiserie with very expensive wallpaper. All this a week before the carpet is due to be fitted. Her feminine encouragement, the back-handed compliment: “You can do it!” is all well and good but, when I’ve got two lectures and an auction booked in the same week, it becomes slightly more problematic.

Jovial fitters So, as I type this, two jovial carpet fitters, fuelled with coffee, are working their way around carefully curated stacks of pictures and furniture. Although they obviously think we are mad, they are being complete troopers. There is not the slightest moan while I flap over a situation which is a problem of our own making. After all, as I point out, we are collectors! Despite the pain of my precious possessions being disrupted, I’m hoping this current round of turbulence will result in another 10 years of peaceful enjoyment (with warmer rooms and no moths). And, on that note, I’d better unpack those rainwater-soaked boxes of radiators we left out last night.

Marc Allum is an author, lecturer and specialist on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow.

‘Despite the immediate pain of my precious possessions being disrupted, I’m hoping that this current round of turbulence will result in another 10 years of peaceful enjoyment (with warmer rooms and no moths).’

Wilkinson's 1_Wilkinson's 1 06/03/2020 11:43 Page 1

Cork Screws, Treen, Period Oak and Country Furniture Saturday 2nd and Sunday 3rd December 11am start

VIEWING DATES

Thursday 30th November and Friday 1st December 10-4pm Sale days 9-11am or by private appointment Hardcopy catalogues are available for £10, the online catalogue is available at: drouot.com, invaluable.com, the-saleroom.com, wilkinsons-auctioneers.co.uk

Wilkinsons Auctioneers Ltd The Old Saleroom, 28 Netherhall Road, Doncaster, South Yorkshire, DN1 2PW Telephone: 01302 814884 www.wilkinsons-auctioneers.co.uk

Inviting consignments for our

November Antiques & Interiors Auction Try our complimentary online valuation service

SUSSEX Newpound, Wisborough Green, West Sussex, RH14 0AZ sussex@bellmans.co.uk 01403 700858

A life size carved marble figure of the Farnese Hercules, 19th Century, 181.5cm high overall, Estimate: £8,000 - £12,000.

bellmans.co.uk