BEER, IT’S THE BEST DAMN DRINK IN THE WORLD Jack Nicholson
3 • BELGIAN BEER CULTURE
SPECIALTY BEER CAFÉS ABROAD
London
Tokyo
The Rake
Ant n Bee
14a Winchester Walk, Borough Market SE1 9AG, United Kingdom – +44(0)20/7407 0557 www.utobeer.co.uk
5 Chome-1-5 Roppongi, Minato +81(0)3/3478 1250
World Beer Museum The White Horse 1–3 Parsons Green, London SW6 4UL, United Kingdom – +44(0)20/7736 2115 www.whitehorsesw6.com
1-1-2 Oshiage Sumida-Ku Tokyo, Tokyo Skytree Town, Solamachi 7F – +81(0)3 5610 2648 www.world-liquor-importers.co.jp
Peking Paris
Slow Boat Brewery Taproom Bar Demory 62 rue Quincampoix, 4ème arrondissement Métro Rambuteau/les Halles +33(0)6/84 12 10 59 www.demoryparis.com
56-2 Dong Si Ba Tiao, Dongcheng District +86(0)10/6538 5537 www.slowboatbrewery.com
Panda Brewpub 14 Dong Si Bei Da Jie, Dongcheng District
Le Supercoin
3 Rue Baudelique, 18ème arrondissement Métro Marcadet Poissonniers – Jules Joffrin +33(0)9/50 07 04 90 www.supercoin.net
Portland
Belmont Station 4500 SE Stark Street – +1(0)503 232 8538 www.belmont-station.com
Berlin
Das Meisterstück Hausvogteiplatz 3–4, Mitte +49(0)30/5587 2562 www.dasmeisterstueck.de
New York
The Pony Bar 637 10th Ave – +1(0)212 586 2707 www.theponybar.com
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WATER The main constituent of beer is water. Places where the local water has specific properties have given rise to typical beer styles. For example, the pale ale brewed in Burton on Trent (UK) owes its excellent quality to the local hard water. In contrast, the water in the Czech town of Pilzen is extremely soft, which makes it eminently suitable for pils brewing. These days, the components of water are adjusted by every large brewery, meaning that any style can be brewed anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, this has been detrimental to regional beers, causing them to lose some of their charm.
Brewing water
Water used for brewing is a reactive medium. In other words, the components that dissolve in the water may well interact with one another. Water is also a transport medium. For example, the water will permeate the kernel of the barley grain or the starch contained within and transport the enzymes to the place where they do their work. Last but not least, water plays an important role in causing chemical reactions, determines temperature and pH and is essential for the transport of energy and heat. The main components are calcium, magnesium and bicarbonate. Together they determine the hardness of the water. The composition of the hardness has a major influence on the acidity or alkalinity (pH degree) during the brewing process. Depending on the presence and concentration of other elements, the brewer will adjust the brewing water to: • Remove insoluble components • components that make the beer cloudy by filtering them out with the use of a sand filter, • bacteria by means of sterilisation. • Remove soluble components by means of: • oxidation and filtration (iron), • deionization, • remove unwanted aromas and smells , • degasification, • decarbonisation (reduce the carbon dioxide content).
Water used for cleaning
Breweries require huge amounts of water to produce their beers and to clean their equipment. The ratio between beer and water is 1 to 7. In other words, the brewer requires 7 litres of water to brew 1 litre of beer. Many breweries optimise their water usage and aim for a ratio of 1 to 4. From a bacteriological point of view, the water used for cleaning has to meet the same standards as drinking water.
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BEER WITH FISH, CRUSTACEANS AND SEAFOOD
A Rodenbach enjoyed with grey shrimps from the Belgian coast, mussels with white beer, fried sole with a triple, ‘maatjes’ herring with a glass of pils, oysters with an inkblack stout or the quintessentially English fish and chips with a pale ale… all of these are great pairings based in popular cuisine. However, beer also forms a great combination with gastronomic recipes using turbot, brill or lemon sole. People used to adhere to the rule that ‘blond beers go with white fish’. But, in our search for the ultimate taste experience, we have found many more possible combinations.
people enthuse about the pairing of raw oysters with beers of the stout or porter type. The salty taste of oysters forms a great combination with the often savoury, strongly tasted malts contained in a stout or porter. An oyster dish made with different ingredients will suit a variety of beer types.
Grey shrimp
No doubt whatsoever: Rodenbach is the one. The salty/sweet taste of these shrimps is a gift from God to this sour and sweet beer. You could not be more Belgian if you tried.
Carpaccio of fish
A Flemish red-brown beer fits a carpaccio of salmon to a tee. The slightly sour touches from the beer form a harmonious combination with the acidic touch of lemon. The malty and sweet touches from the beer provide a great interaction with the fish. With a carpaccio of white fish (cod, for example) we will opt for a calming, slightly sour white beer.
Fish terrine
A luscious, creamy fish terrine is begging for a full-mouthed triple. The power of the triple matches that of the terrine. The carbon dioxide and the bitter agents in the beer ‘slice through’ the oiliness of the dish. Another option is an old gueuze, which works well thanks to the acid in the beer.
Smoked fish
Smoked herring, smoked mackerel... both oily fish with a strong flavour. They are made for an amber ‘spéciale belge’. The malts rein in the fish whereas the touches of caramel will embrace it.
Oysters
Our Belgian spontaneously fermented beers love oysters, as do our white beers. ‘Oud bruin’ and ‘oud rood’ suit certain varieties particularly well thanks to their sour character. And of course, we should not overlook our brut beers, which can stand a comparison with the best champagnes. Many
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Fish fried in batter (fish and chips)
A robust beer of the IPA type is perfectly suited to the fried fish, which packs quite a punch. The bitterness from the hops counteracts the grease. But bear in mind the texture of the fish. Popular television chef Jeroen Meus is treating us to a ‘salmon burger with a salad of cucumber and salsa verde’. We are pairing it with a Belle-Fleur IPA from Dochter van de Korenaar. The touches of bitter and fruit from the beer perfectly complement the amazing flavours from the salmon burger. The bitterness and carbon dioxide content in the beer flush away the oiliness of the salmon. And, this beer’s floral touches make a perfect complement to the piquant sauce.