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Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles
The Karun Thakar Collection
Stephen Ellcock
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788842495
ACC Art Books
Hardback
World
210 mm x 180 mm
256 Pages
253 color, 5 b&w
£25.00
For the first time, social-media art-curator sensation Stephen Ellcock turns his hand to textiles and fashion
Lavishly illustrated with many previously unseen images from Karun Thakar s distinguished textile collection
Designed to appeal to anybody with an interest in art and visual culture, as well as textile experts and enthusiasts
An illuminating journey into the splendours of nature and the infinite entanglements of the human condition
Published in collaboration with Hali, the world s leading textile publisher
Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles is a unique collaboration between bestselling author Stephen Ellcock and textile expert Karun Thakar. Together, they share an inspiring vision of the world through the medium of textiles, leading the reader on a journey into the splendours of nature and the infinite complexities of the human condition.
A social-media sensation, Ellcock is widely known for his online curation of artworks, while Thakar owns one of the world s most important and varied textile collections. Through a spellbinding selection of more than 200 of the most significant, extraordinary and distinctive pieces in Thakar s collection, these pages cover everything from fashion, costume and adornment to pattern and design, rituals and magic, pure abstraction and the sublime.
Combining Ellcock s singular vision with Thakar s expert eye, Stephen Ellcock s Book of Textiles is a ground-breaking compendium of wonders and a must-read for anybody with an interest in art and visual culture, as well as textile devotees, experts and enthusiasts.
Renowned image alchemist Stephen Ellcock is a London-based curator, writer, researcher, and online collector of images who has spent the last decade creating an ever-expanding virtual museum of art that is open to all via social media, attracting more than 650,000 followers worldwide. He is also the author of Underworlds, The Cosmic Dance, All Good Things, The Book of Change, England on Fire (with text by Mat Osman) and Jeux de Mains (in collaboration with Cécile Poimboeuf-Koizumi), and the co-author of'Time for Magic the forthcoming retrospective of the work of the late Jamie Reid.
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Labels of Empire Textile
Trademarks: Windows into India in the Time of the Raj Susan Meller
ISBN
Publisher
Binding Territory
Size Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781954081253
ORO Editions
Hardback
World excluding USA, Canada, Australasia & Asia (except Japan; China non-exclusive)
299 mm x 229 mm 544 Pages
Labels of Empire is a deluxe edition with 1,285 colour images. It is the first book to categorise the labels produced for the British and Indian textile industries and to examine the significant role they played in the histories of both
These colourful, eye-catching images will have broad general appeal
They will be of particular interest to the textile audience of Meller s three previous books which to date, have sold more than 69,700 copies as well as to ephemera collectors and dealers, the many institutions with textile collections, and those with an interest in the history of India and its popular culture. Since they were, in effect, company trademarks, and as such designed to draw attention, they offer a wealth of inspiration to graphic artists in fields such as advertising, book design, and packaging
A richly visual art book and a cultural-historical study. Like Meller s Textile Designs Russian Textiles, and Silk and Cotton it is suitable for universities, schools, libraries and museums, historians, and historical societies
At one time Great Britain clothed the world. In the 1880s, when the British textile industry was at its height, 85 percent of the world s population wore clothing made from fabric produced in the mills of Lancashire. From 1910 to 1913 alone, seven billion yards of cloth were folded, stamped, labeled, and baled. Most of this output was for export, and 30 percent of it went to India.
British textile manufacturers selling into the competitive Indian market were dealing with a largely illiterate population. In order to differentiate their goods, they stamped their cloth with distinctive images a crouching tiger or perhaps an elephant standing on top of a globe. When chromolithography came into widespread use in the late 1800s, illustrated paper labels (known in the trade as shipper s tickets ) made to appeal to the local people were added. Designed, printed, and registered in Manchester, these brightly colored images were pasted onto the pieces of cloth being sold, further helping to establish a company s brand. Hindu gods, native animals, scenes from the great Indian epics the Mahabharata and Ramayana and views of everyday life were common subjects. In a sense a form of premium, they provided the consumer with an additional incentive to buy the goods of a particular firm.
Labels of Empire begins with the late 19th-century heyday of British textile manufacturing and closes with Indian independence in 1947. By combining visual narrative, popular culture, and magical realism in a way never done before, this book offers an unprecedented look at the British textile industry in the time of the Raj and its remarkably successful use of paper labels as trademarks.
Susan Meller has been collecting and studying textiles for more than 50 years. In the 1960s, she worked in the New York textile industry as a designer and strike-off artist for Riegel Textile Corporation, Dan River Mills, and other fabric converters, traveling to their mills in South Carolina and Georgia to supervise the printing of their fabrics. This early experience gave her an invaluable insight into working operations of what were still, in many respects, 19th-century mills and mill towns. She later founded and created the Design Library (www.design-library.com), formerly in New York City and now located in a converted textile factory in Wappingers Falls, New York. With over 5 million designs, the Design Library is the largest and most extensive commercial archive of period textiles and original textile designs in the world.
Susan Meller is co-author of Textile Designs: Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns (Abrams, 1991); author of Russian Textiles: Printed Cloth for the Bazaars of Central Asia (Abrams, 2007) and Silk and Cotton: Textiles from the Central Asia that was (Abrams, 2013; La Martinière, 2013); and contributing author to Colors of the Oasis: Central Asian Ikats (The Textile Museum, 2010).
She lives in Berkeley, California with her husband Frank Rubenfeld.
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Persian Rugs and Carpets
Masterpieces of Woven Art
Essie Sakhai
ISBN
Publisher
Binding Territory Size
Pages Price
9781788842754
ACC Art Books
Hardback World
356 mm x 280 mm
480 Pages
£95.00
A must-have for all collectors and enthusiasts of Persian woven art
Stunning, full-page colour photographs of rare and valuable rugs and carpets
Includes the fascinating history and art of creating woven masterpieces
Hand-woven rugs from Persia are among the most exquisite art works ever created. In this fully revised edition ofPersian Rugs, Essie Sakhai reveals recent discoveries that present us with a new understanding of this unique art. With hundreds of stunning new photographs, taken especially for this book, Sakhai takes us on a journey through Iran and beyond.
Beginning with the history and art of creating woven masterpieces, Persian Rugs goes on to present full-page examples of some of the most cherished and valuable rugs and carpets in the world. No two hand-woven carpets are the same, each with its own special property, beauty and quality. Sakhai has handpicked the most important of these and gives detailed explanations of how and why these art forms hold such singular and even mystical appeal. A new demand for original and ancient hand-woven pieces has increased their value greatly, leading to world-record prices being achieved at auction and important examples entering major museum collections around the world.
Born in Iran to a family with a long history of dealing in Persian carpets, perhaps it was inevitable thatEssie Sakhai should become a respected expert on Oriental and Persian carpets, gaining much of his great knowledge from his father Benayahoo Sakhai. Essie lives in North London, though he spends most of his time at Essie Carpets on the corner of Albemarle Street and Piccadilly in London's Mayfair, carrying on the family tradition started in the 18th century. Essie is a true enthusiast and hopes through his extensive lectures, interviews and writing (his previous books include The Story of Carpets, which has been translated into many languages, The Buyers' Guide, and Persian Rugs and Carpets: The Fabric of Life) to share his knowledge and passion for carpets with a wider audience.
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Published to accompany an exhibition at Fondation
Plus léger que l'air - Lighter than air
The Flight of the Dragonfly, Uehara Michiko
Laure Schwartz-Arenales
Bertrand Piccard
Michiko Uehara
Shukuko Voss-Tabe
Tomomi Miyagawa
Masanori Moroyama
Suzanne Lassalle
ISBN
9791254600764
5 Continents Editions Paperback / softback World excluding Italy and France
280 mm x 210 mm
132 Pages 98 color £36.00
Musée des Arts d Extrême-Orient, 30 October 2024 2 February 2025
During the cherry blossom season of April 1924, 100 years ago, on his only trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, Alfred Baur, an extraordinary entrepreneur and founder of the Museum of Far Eastern Art in Geneva, was charmed to discover the sparkling poetry of the images of the floating world (ukiyo-e), combined with the landscapes of the great masters of the print and the delightful motifs found throughout the objects in his superb collection of Japanese art.
Echoing his taste and pioneering spirit, and as part of the celebrations marking the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Switzerland and Japan, this book, thanks to contributions from leading specialists in the fields of handicrafts and textiles, takes an in-depth historical, technical and comparative look at the desire for lightness that underpins the aims, aesthetics and meaning of the work of Michiko Uehara, a virtuoso weaver.
In her studio bathed in the subtropical sunshine of Okinawa, in the archipelago in the far south of Japan where she was born and which is renowned for its textiles, she succeeds in pushing the material to the very edge of nothingness, weaving and dyeing sublime fabrics in three-denier threads*, as fine and transparent as a dragonfly s wing (akezuba in the local language).
This bonding relationship combining the physical and the spiritual which links Uehara to silk fibres and more generally to nature itself, gives rise to woven air , as she puts it: an aerial, rhythmic journey, free of borders and attuned to living things.
As this book suggests, this quest is not unrelated to some of the research carried out by Swiss explorer Bertrand Piccard, whose solar aircraft, a giant, silent dragonfly whose carbon-fibre ribs combine extreme strength and lightness, intelligently weaves a harmonious path between humanity, earth and sky
* The Denier (Den) is a measure of continuous thread, i.e. its weight in grams per 9000 metres of thread; i.e. 1 Den = 1 gr./9000m of thread
Text in English and French.
A graduate of the École du Louvre and a doctor of Paris IV Sorbonne, Laure Schwartz-Arenales began her career at the Musée national des Arts asiatiques-Guimet and the École du Louvre, where she taught East Asian art. Her research on Japanese ancient painting, conducted since 1998 in Japan (Tohoku University - Kyoto National Museum), was awarded the Kajima Foundation for the Arts in 2007. Professor at Ochanomizu University and then at Sophia University (Tokyo), she has been director of the Baur Foundation, Museum of Far Eastern Arts in Geneva since 2018. Born in Naha, Okinawa in 1949, Michiko Uehara became familiar with Okinawan textiles through the Japan Folk Art Museum (Tokyo) when she was in college. After entering the world of textiles under the tutelage of the renowned master weaver Yoshihiro Yanagi, she learned traditional Okinawan weaving techniques from Shizuko Ôshiro and established the "Mayu-ori" workshop in 1979. Using 3-denier silk threads, the finest thread a silkworm can produce, Uehara weaves incredibly light and airy textiles, baptized "Akezuba-ori," which, in Okinawa, means a dragonfly's wing. Explorer, psychiatrist and pioneer of clean technologies, Bertrand Piccard is the author of two first aeronautical round-the-world flights in a balloon and a solar plane. President of the Solar Impulse Foundation, this United Nations Environment Ambassador uses his fame to serve progress, sustainability and quality of life, three themes that are reflected in his concept of "qualitative economy".
Baur,
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Tai
A Woven Culture
Photographs by Hans Roels Other Napajaree Suanduenchai
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9786164510746
River Books
Hardback
World excluding Belgium, Netherlands, South East
Asia, USA & Canada
320 mm x 295 mm
336 Pages
200 color
£80.00
The most comprehensive and detailed study and representation of the Tai people, with stunning photographs and beautifully presented case bound
This book serves as a celebration of the textiles made by various Tai subgroups and non-Tai minority groups encountered during the authors journey.
Hali Magazine
This lavish, large format art project is the culmination of 20 years research of Tai culture throughout Southeast Asia, beginning with Napajaree Suandduenchai s vast 1,500 piece silk collection which has remained private until now. All 230 photographs were shot on sheet film to bring out the most intricate details of the textiles.
Over the last 20 years, Mrs. Suanduenchai and photographer Hans Roels visited all the major Tai subgroups in their towns and villages to document their weaving traditions, culture and individual stories their belief of who they are and where they came from. Roels photography captures both the intricacy of the Tai weaving arts as well as the people behind the textiles. As of 2022 at least 75% of the villages that Suanduenchai and Roels visited no longer produce traditional Tai textiles, leaving the reader as the last eye-witnesses to a spectacular culture.
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Threads of Time
Edited by Daniel Brewster
Edited by Lyssa Stapleton
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113744
Hali Publications Hardback
World
325 mm x 250 mm
408 Pages
350 color, 20 b&w
£75.00
A journey around the world through the medium of textiles
Full-colour photos of rare textiles from 16 regions
Stunning location photography
Bringing together over 30 voices to tell textile stories
Must-have for the culturally curious, textile lovers, interior designers, and travel enthusiasts
Threads of Time is a journey around the world through the medium of textiles. In many communities, cultural heritage and traditions have been handed down through generations by textile artisans. Their beliefs, history, ceremonies, and traditions have been woven into cloth with meaning and purpose sometimes lasting thousands of years. Textiles are special in that they can create narratives that are personal as well as eminently portable.
The pages of Threads of Time illustrate exquisite textiles with location photography, from historical examples of centuries past to extraordinary contemporary expressions, revealing a continuum of inspiration and beauty. The 16 chapters, covering regions from across the globe, feature contributions from local textile makers and experts, bringing together over 30 voices to tell stories of cloth.
Locations explored include: Indonesia, China, Vietnam and Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar, Bhutan, Nagaland, Punjab, Egypt and Palestine, The Caucasus, Turkey, Madagascar, Tunisia, Ghana, Peru and Guatemala, Navajo Nation.
Dan and Dara Brewster have long been inspired by heritage textiles and the cultural narratives they convey. They view artisanal textile making as a foundation for cultural appreciation and advocacy. Lyssa C. Stapleton is the Director of the Waystation Initiative at the UCLA Cotsen Institute of Archaeology. She is interested in the evolution of museum collections stewardship in the 21st century, decolonisation and repatriation, and social justice via the protection and recognition of cultural heritage.
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Belgian War Lace 1914-1918
The Collection of the Royal Museums of Art and History
Ria Cooreman
Evelyn McMillan
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Price
9789461618900
Exhibitions International
Hardback
United Kingdom and Ireland
280 mm x 220 mm
128 Pages
£31.00
This beautiful catalogue showcases the Royal Museums of Art and History's collection of war lace Explore the history behind war lace, the leaders and artists involved, and the symbolism of the designs, along with expert interpretations
Fifty thousand lacemakers, led by four determined women, worked to keep the Belgian lacemaking tradition alive during WWI. Their endeavours created the distinctive style known as war lace , with its symbolic references to the invasion and occupation of Belgium. Many noted Belgian artists, two famine-relief organisations, and one future president of the United States played crucial roles in preserving this national art form in the midst of a brutal war.
This catalogue documents the Royal Museums of Art and History s collection of war lace. It also recounts the history of the endeavour, the leaders and artists involved, and the symbolism of the designs, as expertly interpreted by Ria Cooreman (Curator of Textiles, Royal Museums of Art and History, Brussels) and Evelyn McMillan (Librarian Emerita, Stanford University, California). Published 2nd Sep 2024
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Featuring many previously unseen pieces
Sheds new light on life on the Tibetan Plateau Two hardbacks, slipcased
Tibetan Rugs
The Rudi Molacek Collection
Rudi Molacek
Thomas Wild
Thomas Cole
Felix Elwert
ISBN Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113713
Hali Publications
Hardback
World
280 mm x 200 mm
240 Pages
300 color, 30 b&w
£80.00
Artist and photographer Rudi Molacek has assembled, with an artist s eye, an idiosyncratic collection of more than 300 Tibetan carpets, rugs, mats, seat-, bench- and saddle-covers. Between the 15th and the 20th centuries they were woven for both sacred and secular purposes by Tibetan nomads and villagers, and in the shadow of monastic centres across the Tibetan Plateau. The first volume presents Tibetan rugs intended for sitting, sleeping, meditation and horse riding, as well as those made to furnish the region s prestigious temples and monasteries an expression of the relative wealth and status of their owners. The second volume focuses on a group of so-called Wangden rural rugs, characterised by a unique weaving technique, some of which have been the subject of an illuminating exercise in radiocarbon dating to establish the antiquity of the tradition.
Artist and photographer Rudi Molacek has collected Tibetan carpets for many years. For this book, he is joined by a team of experts on weaving and Tibetan culture.
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A high quality facsimile reproduction
The Holker Album
Textile Samples and Industrial Espionage in the 18th Century
Edited by Ariane Fennetaux
Edited by John Styles
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9782916914879
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Hardback
World excluding France and Belgium
370 mm x 250 mm
272 Pages
170 color
£60.00
Essays written by leading specialists in economic history, textile techniques, the global cotton trade, technology transfer, and fashion
Many appendices: Translation of the manuscript in English, Technical analysis of the samples, Glossary, Indexes, etc.
An indispensable reference work for the study of the history of textiles and fashion on the eve of the Industrial Revolution
In 1751, John Holker (1719-1786), an English textile manufacturer exiled in France, undertook an industrial espionage mission to England to collect samples of English textiles on behalf of the French king, Louis XV. On his return, the samples were assembled in a manuscript volume, which is now preserved at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Each sample in this album is accompanied by a handwritten technical description specifying the quality of the fabric, its price, its dimensions and the manufacturing processes. This album is famous for preserving the oldest identifiable samples of jean fabric.
Completely bilingual, the book includes a facsimile reproduction of the album, accompanied by a transcription of its handwritten text and a dozen essays. The essays, written by academics, curators and specialists from France, Britain, and North America, explore the album from various angles: the globalisation of commerce, the slave trade, industrial espionage, economic rivalry between France and England, the taste for cotton and its role in the history of fashion, etc. The book demonstrates the importance of centuries-old links between France and the United Kingdom and is an indispensable work of reference for the history of textiles.
Text in English and French.
Ariane Fennetaux is Associate Professor in British history at Université Paris Cité. Her research and publications focus on material culture with a particular emphasis on textiles and dress. Her book, The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women s Lives 1660-1900, co-authored with Barbara Burman, was published in 2019 by Yale University Press.
John Styles is Professor Emeritus in History at the University of Hertfordshire and Honorary Senior Research Fellow at the Victoria and Albert Museum. He specialises in the history of material life, manufacturing and design. His books include The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England, published by Yale University Press in 2007, and Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital s Textile Tokens, 1740-1770, published by the London Foundling Museum in 2010.
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An Unbroken Thread
Celebrating 150 Years of the Royal School of Needlework - updated edition
Susan Kay-Williams
ISBN
Publisher
Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788842600
ACC Art Books Hardback World
270 mm x 215 mm
256 Pages
240 color, 56 b&w
£37.50
Showcasing regalia for the coronation of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla Covering the remarkable history of the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) from inception to the present day Illustrated with historical pictures and documents Original edition published to coincide with the RSN s 150th anniversary
The RSN has worked on regalia for every Coronation since 1902, when Edward VII was crowned, and most recently designed and embroidered the robes of state for their Coronation last year. Its patron, Queen Camilla, has written a charming foreword to this beautifully illustrated book. The Lady Bees, butterflies, beetles and 24 different plants the astonishing sewing secrets behind the gorgeous Coronation robes of the King and Queen. The Mail Online Many initiatives to support women were begun in the late 1800s, but the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) is one of the few that remain. This initiative was born from the desire of three women Princess Helena, Lady Victoria Welby and Lady Marian Alford to popularise the lost art of ornamental needlework and place it on a par with other decorative arts, such as painting and sculpture. Their other, yet no less important goal was to provide employment for women compelled to earn their own livelihood. Though women are no longer so limited in occupational options, the RSN has been keeping traditional embroidery techniques alive for a century and a half.
An Unbroken Thread tells the story from the RSN s founding in 1872 to the current day. It highlights key people, royal and other special commissions, the changing fortunes of the school as fashions changed and the approach to teaching hand embroidery, as well as bringing attention to the role and position of the RSN historically and today, associating with everyone from society ladies and theatre impresarios in the late 19th century to working with fashion designers Patrick Grant, Nicholas Oakwell and Alexander McQueen, and architects in the 21st century.
First published to coincide with the RSN s 150th anniversary, this revised edition details the most recent projects worked by the RSN, showcasing their skilful work on regalia for the coronation of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla The King s Robe of State, The Queen s Robe of Estate, The Anointing Screen, The Stole Royal and Girdle, The Chairs of Estate and The Chairs of State.
Dr Susan Kay-Williams has been chief executive of the Royal School of Needlework since 2007. She is also a curator and archivist. She has spent a lot of her spare time researching the RSN s history because she believes more of its remarkable history needs to be known. In her own right, her research interest is in the history of dyes and textile dyeing. She published The Story of Colour in Textiles in 2013 (Bloomsbury).
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Anatolian Tribal Rugs 1050- 1750: The Orient Stars Collection
Michael Franses
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113959
Hali Publications
Hardback
World
359 mm x 297 mm
360 Pages
300 color, 10 b&w
£115.00
A new volume presenting unseen Turkish and Central Asian carpets (before 1600) with radio-carbon dating and new research by Michael Franses
A limited-edition companion to Orient Stars: A Carpet Collection
Published to accompany the auction of part of the collection at Rippon Boswell, Wiesbaden, Germany in June 2021
Anatolian Tribal Rugs 1050-1750: The Orient Stars Collection, a limited-edition companion to Orient Stars: A Carpet Collection (Stuttgart and London, 1993), presents 33 early rugs and textiles acquired between 1993-2006 by Heinrich and Waltraut Kirchheim. In this volume, Michael Franses discusses these exceedingly rare unpublished carpets with reference to their carbon-14 dating as well as comparative examples, and offers new commentary and dating for 43 of the carpets from the original book. Other contributors include: Anna Beselin, Walter Denny, Eberhart Herrmann, Klaus Kirchheim, Garry Muse and Friedrich Spuhler.
Published 26th May 2022
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Untold stories of textile travellers
Pull of the Thread Textile Travels of a Generation
Sheila Fruman
ISBN
Publisher
Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113874
Hali Publications Hardback
World
280 mm x 240 mm
231 Pages
250 color, 25 b&w
£35.00
Colour photos of rare antique textiles and stunning interiors
Featuring previously unpublished photographs from the 1970s of streets and bazaars in Central and South Asia
A must-have for textile lovers and interior and fashion designers
Sheila Fruman, fascinated by the textiles and handmade carpets she saw when she travelled overland in 1969 from Turkey to India, tells the stories of nine intrepid adventurers who have combed the streets and bazaars of Central and South Asia finding, researching, collecting and selling antique Kashmir shawls, embroidered Uzbek textiles and robes, Anatolian kilims, Turkmen carpets and many other textile treasures to interested Westerners.
These stories capture the post-World War II era s free spirit that briefly coincided with economic prosperity and open borders. With over 200 colour illustrations, the book shows how the indigenous designs and motifs popularised in the US and Europe by these textile travellers can now be found in anything from haute couture to high-end interior design to mass-marketed bedding, tableware and clothing.
The dealers and collectors who have spent their lives seeking these complex pieces of the past have intriguing stories to tell and collections of some of the finest textiles of their kind in the world. Taken together, their stories are an enlightening guide to understanding how we connect to the past, and how textiles connect the world.
Sheila Fruman s travels in 1969 from London to Mumbai aroused a keen interest in textiles and carpets. After a 25-year career in politics in her native Canada and, later, working in post-conflict countries to support democratisation, she has pursued her love of handmade antique textiles and authored a book about fellow textile travellers.
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Global Ikat
Roots and Routes of a Textile Technique
Edited by Rosemary Crill
ISBN
Publisher
Binding Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113904
Hali Publications Hardback
World
300 mm x 245 mm
240 Pages
300 color, 20 b&w
£40.00
This is the first time all the different iterations of this textile have been comprehensively brought together in one volume, drawing from the wide-ranging collection of David Paly It is a journey across the world through the lens of ikat
Deceptively simple or fantastically intricate, ikat technique has been used for many centuries to create extravagant costumes and cloths of deep cultural meaning. The distinctively blurred, feathered or jagged patterns of ikat-dyed textiles are found across much of the world from Japan in the east to Central and South America in the west, with vast areas of South-east Asia, India, Central Asia and the Middle East in between. The traditional patterns still hold cultural relevance today in significant parts of the long-established ikatweaving areas. Textile artists and fashion designers in many and varied countries have taken ikat in new directions, respecting traditional forms and palettes while creatively diverging from them.
This is the first time all the different iterations of this textile have been comprehensively brought together in one volume, drawing from the wide-ranging collection of David Paly. It is a journey across the world through the lens of ikat.
This book brings together some of the world s foremost experts on ikat textiles, with an introduction by renowned textile scholar and curator Rosemary Crill.
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Atelier Zanolli
Fabrics, Fashion, Craft 1905 1939
Edited by Museum für Gestaltung Zürich Edited by Sabine Flaschberger
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9783039420827
Scheidegger & Spiess
Hardback
World excluding Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Puerto Rico, United States, Canada, and Japan
270 mm x 200 mm
320 Pages
300 color
£45.00
The first-ever comprehensive and lavishly illustrated introduction to the history and product world of Zurich-based Atelier Zanolli
More than 600 colour illustrations showcase the full range of the cheerful fabrics, pearl creations, as well as wood and leather goods, produced by this entirely women-run Swiss family enterprise
An important contribution to the history of Swiss design and the country s fashion and textile industry in the time before World War II
Under the label Atelier Zanolli, a fantastic world of silk fabrics that were painted and imprinted with patterns, opulently embroidered cushions, colourful pearl creations, as well as finely crafted leather and wood articles, was created between 1905 and 1939 in Zurich. The Zanollis had immigrated from Italy in 1905. Their family business was entirely women-run by mother Antonietta and her daughters Pia, Lea, and Zoe Zanolli. The cultural and stylistic influences manifested in the Zanollis visually appealing product world range from the avant-garde to a typically Swiss aesthetic forged by a national spirit of defence against the increasingly felt threat that Nazi Germany posed to the country in the 1930s. Driven by a striving for artistic self-realisation, the atelier defied the many economic challenges of the period and carried out many commissions for Zurich s leading textile businesses and department stores.
This book traces the history of Atelier Zanolli, places its work in the context of the development of Zurich and the Swiss textile industry in the first half of the 20th century, and for the first time also positions the Zanolli style internationally. More than 600 images show the wealth of colours and shapes of the cosmos of textiles and crafted objects, as well as templates, sketches, private photographs, business cards, and letters. The essays illuminate the techniques and work processes used, discuss entire motif families and unique designs, and grant a rare comprehensive insight into the tastes of the time.
Sabine Flaschberger is curator of Museum für Gestaltung Zürich s decorative arts collection. Museum für Gestaltung Zürich is Switzerland s leading museum of design and visual communication. Its widely renowned collection comprises more than 500,000 objects representing Swiss and international design history.
Published 16th Jun 2022
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The Life Thread
Paracas Textiles and Culture
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781788841863
ACC Art Books
Hardback
World
260 mm x 230 mm
356 Pages
334 color, 59 b&w
£60.00
A ground breaking publication about Paracas textiles produced in Peru more than 2000 years ago
Written by a world authority on these textiles
This book documents a collection of approximately 90 Paracas textiles. The collection consists of cloaks, ponchos, tunics, as well as some smaller fragments such as ribbons. Originally housed at the Ethnographic Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, the objects were returned to Peru during 2019 and 2020. Paracas textiles tell the story of the people living in Peru more than 2000 years ago and how they saw and viewed the world. In cultures without a written language imagery is very important. Textile pictures were created from the depths of the human senses, from thoughts and dreams. The makers of the Paracas textiles depict fantastic stories from their time and culture about creation, death and thoughts about life.
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson has studied, inventoried and analysed the Paracas textiles for decades, and cracked codes about how they were made. She also has pioneering theories about what they want to say and how the unbroken thread symbolises life. In this text, Kerstin documents and explains the secret behind these fantastic 2000-year-old textiles.
Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson is an academic and author with a specialism in old and historic textiles and the techniques used to manufacture them.
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Nomadic Visions
Tribal Weavings from Persia and the Caucasus Michael Rothberg
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9781898113829
Hali Publications
Hardback
World
320 mm x 256 mm
320 Pages
250 color, 20 b&w
£60.00
Antique knotted-pile transport bags and other collectible small-format weavings, both utilitarian and decorative, made by the nomadic tribes of the Caucasus region and Iran
The best of the best in a widely collected area of textile arts
Extensive text, beautifully-written and well-researched, this book leads us through many historical and geographical adventures and towards a plethora of full-colour plates These pages ground us by sharing a complex culture expressed through an object of practical simplicity. Ptolemy Mann, Selvedge
The Michael and Amy Rothberg Collection of knotted-pile tribal and nomadic bags and other rare small format pile weavings, among them many pieces made for women s dowries and other ceremonial functions, is recognised as the best of its kind anywhere in the world. The collection has been carefully and thoughtfully assembled over the past four decades. Michael Rothberg s collections are above all distinguished by the collector s acutely sensitive and perceptive eye for the best museum-quality material available on the international market. Specialists in the field and other collectors and tribal weaving enthusiasts have awaited the publication of this part of the Rothberg Collection for many years, ever since a selection of the material was shown at Sotheby s in Los Angeles in a feature exhibition during the American Conference on Oriental Rugs in January 1996. The scope of the collection includes antique pile bags, from the Transcaucasus region, as well as from the Shahsavan, Kurdish, Varamin region, Qashqa i, Khamseh, Luri, Bakhtiari, Afshar and Baluch tribes of Iran.
Michael Rothberg is a San Francisco Bay Area collector of antique carpets and rugs, and a careful and methodical expert on the genre, with many years experience of acquiring only the best for his collections.
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Trading Textiles
50 Years of Advertising for Fibres and Fabrics. 1920-1970
Ruth Artmonsky
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Name of series
Price
9781916384538
Artmonsky Arts
Paperback / softback
World excluding US & Canada
175 mm x 215 mm
112 Pages
50 Years
£10.00
Covering mid-20th century textile advertising
Trading Textiles not only illustrates what was happening in graphic design generally but the changing character of the textile industry itself
The focus of the plethora of books on British textiles has largely been on their design and designers; relatively little has been written on the marketing of the products. Trading Textiles whilst making reference to the many avenues and methods for selling fibres and fabrics focussed on press advertising whereby manufacturers not only showed off a product, a brand, but intentionally or unintentionally provided potential buyers with an image of the company itself. Although, eventually, as with so many industries in the 20th century, companies that originally built their reputation on one line a particular fibre or textile or stage of production conglomerates came to offer comprehensive ranges. Trading Textiles compares the different styles of advertising of firms driven by design, those science based, those focussed on furnishings, and others relating to fashion.
Covering mid-20th century textile advertising the book not only illustrates what was happening in graphic design generally but the changing character of the textile industry itself.
Published 9th Aug 2021
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Blue Tailoring
Edited by Stefano Chiassai
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9788836646975
Silvana Hardback
UK, Ireland, Scandinavia, Iceland, Germany, Eastern Europe, & Austria. Arab States non-exclusive
325 mm x 240 mm
256 Pages
200 color
£85.00
Denim: the most widespread fabric on the planet, in designer Stefano Chiassai s original sartorial reinterpretation
Denim is a symbol of cultural globalisation. Democratic, versatile, resistant to the passing of time and to changing tastes and styles, it embodies rebellion and standardisation at the same time.
Stefano Chassai, an established designer on the international scene, searches for new variations of the iconic blue fabric in the sphere of men s wardrobe: mixed with other materials and ennobled with unusual techniques, between craftsmanship and new technologies, denim leaves the casual universe to enter the field of tailoring, as the raw material for a new concept of elegance.
The result is Blue Tailoring, the story of an ideal collection, a creative laboratory and manifesto of the stylist s poetics.
With the collaboration of over 30 Italian companies, Stefano Chiassai tells his original interpretation of the most widespread fabric on the planet.
The book is divided into 10 chapters in which the designer tackles different design methods and combinations of materials, exploring new concepts of form. It also includes an interview by Claudio Marenco Mores and critical texts by Paola Maddaluno, Bruno Casini, Antonio Mancinelli and Claudio Marenco Mores.
Text in English and Italian.
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Garden of Lace. Carine Gilson
Carine Gilson
Karen van Godtsenhoven
Caroline Esgain
ISBN
Publisher Binding
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9789401464703
Lannoo Publishers
Hardback
279 mm x 229 mm
192 Pages
140 color, 50 b&w
£50.00
First monograph about top lingerie and nightwear designer Carine Gilson who creates 'haute lingerie' for women such as Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell end Madonna
A leading lingerie designer for over 30 years, her hand-stitched creations are made in her atelier in Brussels and are sold around the world
Carine Gilson launched her Parisian haute couture lingerie label nearly two decades ago to instant industry acclaim Specialising in luxurious underpinnings and beachwear with a coquettish twist
“… pieces are beautifully crafted” – Net-a-porter.com
Birds of paradise, exotic flowers, the Garden of Eden, Gustav Klimt, Art Nouveau and Les Ballets Russes are sources of inspiration for the fantastic and exclusive oeuvre of Belgian lingerie and nightwear designer Carine Gilson. She transforms Calais lace and silk from Lyon into haute lingerie with masterly finesse, and her designs catapult the imagination into a dream world of sensuality and elegance. This book explores her philosophy and work, focusing on her designs, the luxurious material she sources, and the craftsmanship of the atelier that has been transforming lace and silk into exquisite and luxurious lingerie, robes, and nightgowns for nearly 30 years. Carine Gilson s couture lingerie is sold in her own stores in Paris, London, Taipei and Brussels and in famous couture houses around the world.
Karen Van Godtsenhoven is an associate curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Carine Gilson studied at the Antwerp Fashion Academy. She designs luxurious bespoke lingerie, cocktail dresses, kimonos and cruise wear in her Brussels atelier. Her creations have been on the covers of Bazaar, Vogue, The New York Times Magazine, Madame, and other leading magazines.
TITLE INFORMATION
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The Handmade Carpet A
Comprehensive Guide to Contemporary Rugs Fritz Langauer
Ernst Swietly
ISBN
Publisher Binding Size Pages
Illustrations Price
9781898113638
Hali Publications
Hardback
315 mm x 245 mm
320 Pages
350 color, 20 b&w
£55.00
For the first time, a lavishly illustrated book shows how traditional handmade rugs and carpets have become vehicles for contemporary trends and used in interior design and home decoration
The authors' work in journalism and rug production over the last fifty years equips them with the experiences of the travel writer and the specialist knowledge of leaders in the global rug market
The developments in the weaving industry in India, Iran, Turkey, China, Turkmenistan, Morocco, Pakistan and Afghanistan are reviewed as well as the historical and cultural context for change in a book that shines a light on the contemporary rug market in the 21st century
The handmade rug industry has gone through a revolution in the last twenty-five years, and no one is better placed to explain how and why than Fritz Langauer and Ernst Swietly, who have been buying, making, collecting and writing about rugs for over fifty years. Rugs are now being made in colours and designs unimagined just a few decades ago. This new book is the only title available that shows how carpet making has changed in all traditional rug making nations as well as demonstrating through images of rugs in interior settings how the style and use of rugs has changed. Carpets carry many unspoken narratives about peoples and places this new book reveals some of these for the first time thanks to the first-hand experience of the authors in the souks and bazars of the Middle East.
Ernst Anton Swietly grew up in a family that had just one single carpet. It was rolled out only once a year, during the Christmas holidays, and on each 7 January, the carpet was rolled up and hidden behind a box until next Christmas. Since then, for Ernst, carpets have been a symbol of peaceful, warm, cosy family get-togethers. Later on, Ernst A. Swietly - a journalist for fifty years - travelled the carpet-producing countries of the world discovering the secrets of handmade weaving and their design principles. This is how he met Fritz Langauer, and they realised it was time to write a book on the carpet world of the 21st century. Only thus could they bring the incredibly diverse artistic, political and economic environment of knotted and woven works of art to a wider audience, with the aim of correcting numerous misunderstandings and reconciling many points of conflict between East and West, North and South, Christianity, Islam, Hinduism and Judaism, in a peaceful and understanding way.
Fritz Langauer is the son of the businessman Friedrich Langauer who, with his cousin, Adolf Boehm, founded Adil Besim OHG immediately after the Second World. As one of the sons of the two founders, Fritz Langauer joined the company in 1957. With its five branches, a carpet laundry and repair workshop, it developed over the years to become one of the largest department stores in Europe. Through many procurement trips to the countries of origin, and while searching for old and antique carpets and flatweaves in many other countries, he has been able to acquire a comprehensive knowledge of the entire spectrum of the industry, of new and antique carpets, wholesale and retail. In addition to English, he also knows Farsi (Persian) and some Turkish. He is also a court-certified expert on hand-knotted rugs and tapestries.
Published 24th Jan 2019
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Fashion for God
Religious Textiles from Hidden Churches in the Dutch Republic 1580-1800
Edited by Waanders Publishers
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9789462625082
Waanders Publishers
Paperback / softback
World excluding Benelux
280 mm x 220 mm
224 Pages
200 color
£45.00
A fully illustrated book supporting the exhibition Fashion for God in the Museum Catharijneconvent, Utrecht, running until 21st January 2024
When the survival of the Catholic Church was threatened during the Republic and Catholic shelter churches were not allowed to be recognisable from the street, what was not allowed to be shown on the outside was compensated for on the inside. In the 17th century, the robes became gold, silver and silk expressions of silent resistance, but also of a feminist agenda of the makers. Behind closed doors, everything was literally and figuratively pulled out to propagate the Catholic faith. Worn ball gowns with colourful flowered French, English and Chinese fashion fabrics were donated to the church by rich, pious women so that beautiful and special church vestments could be made from them. So it could easily happen that a priest in a pink robe with flowers stood at the altar. Published 12th Jun 2024
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The Vinson Collection of Indonesian Textiles
Glenn Vinson
ISBN
Publisher
Binding
Territory
Size
Pages
Illustrations
Price
9789887608912
CA Book Publishing Hardback
World excluding China
330 mm x 254 mm
214 Pages
188 color
£64.00
In a series of collecting periods spanning nearly 40 years, this volume collects examples of textiles including ikats and batiks from Indonesia and India
The textiles here have been organised by several broad categories, beginning with type, and then by area of origin, dating and style. First are ikats and prints from India: the ikats woven in silk as double ikats and known as patola, and two prints that are cotton chintz. Though made in India, these textiles were all found in Sumatra, with the patola being highly-prized heirlooms used ceremonially, and the prints being used widely in trade across Indonesia from Sumatra to the Eastern Islands.
Next are ikats and other woven textiles organised by origin, moving West to East, from Sumatra to Borneo, Sulawesi, Bali, and Timor. For all of these pieces, the material was hand spun or commercial cotton, silk, or sometimes a mixture of the two.
Lastly are batiks, mostly from Java. The first three are the oldest batiks in this collection, each of which has been analysed by radiocarbon dating and found to originate in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. These batiks are made on hand spun cotton.
The batiks here are from Sumatra and Java (the great mother-temple of batik artistry), ranging in age, after the proto-batiks described above, from the early 19th century to mid-20th century. They vary in style from the most traditional, including those distinctive in colour and pattern from the kratons (palaces) of the sultans, Indian influences from chintz and other Indian imports, to Chinese-inspired depictions of animals, insects, plants and flowers, to French-inspired Art Nouveau mostly via Batik Belanda.
This collection of Indonesian textiles and some related Indian textiles that were popular and influential in Indonesian usage and design came together in a series of collecting periods spanning nearly 40 years.
Glenn Vinson is a retired lawyer and private investor who lived and worked in Hong Kong and Singapore for seven years through 1981. He is a graduate of Columbia University and Harvard Law School. He was a Commissioner of the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, and Trustee of the Asia Art Museum Foundation for more than 20 years, and Treasurer for 17 years. He and Joan have collected Indonesian textiles as well as Chinese and Japanese ceramics and pottery since 1980.