IN THE
Loupe The first ring, set with a foiled glass intaglio, came from the collection of a medieval Earl of Buchan and might have been worn by his Countess, Mary Stewart in the 1430s. The second (left) had a pink tourmaline stone engraved with Royal Arms and a motto, possibly for Henry Beaufort, 3rd Duke of Somerset (1436-1464). Lawrences’ specialist, Alex Butcher, said: “Jewellery has such intimate and personal associations. Rings with a distinguished history and clear aristocratic connections carry an association that few other items could ever hope to match. With treasures such as this, one is truly in touch with history.”
LONG HISTORY
Seal of Approval Demand for signet rings is soaring in the saleroom. With many having a traceable link to noble families from centuries ago they are an enchanting piece of wearable history
W
hen a trio of signet rings sold for multiple times its estimate in a regional auction house, you know it’s time for collectors to sit up and take note. The sale, at Somerset auctioneers Lawrences, saw a gold signet ring with a sardonyx stone engraved with a coat of arms make £1,250 (against an estimate of £150£250), while two other signet rings smashed their presale estimate of £300 to both take £11,250.
56 ANTIQUE COLLECTING
Above A gold signet ring with a pink tourmaline stone, was engraved with Royal Arms and a motto, possibly for Henry Beaufort, 3rd Duke of Somerset (14361464), image courtesy of Lawrences in Crewkerne Right A late
19th-century gold signet ring, the marquise-shaped seal engraved with a crest and motto ‘VICIMUS’, the reverse engraved ‘W.W.W. / to / E.J.M’ and ‘Nov. 22. 1890’. It sold for £806 this June, image courtesy of Dix Noonan Webb
For centuries the signet ring has been an essential accessory to the well-heeled male. Known as the ‘gentleman’s ring’, it was traditionally seen as a symbol of family heritage with many bearing the family crest or coat of arms engraved in reverse so that it could be pressed into soft clay or wax and used as a seal on a document – indeed the name comes from the Latin signum meaning ‘sign’. Curator and jewellery expert, Rachel Church, said: “Signet rings are probably one of the earliest forms of rings and have proved to be long lasting. Even in an age of email and text, where no letter will ever require sealing wax, they continue to be stylish jewels – a way to showcase your good taste and identity on your finger. Signet rings could be decorated with initials, skulls, coats of arms, devices and even a portrait of your pet dog - there is no limit to the possibilities of design.” These days signet rings are increasingly sought after by young collectors – both male and female. Gary Mayoh from
