GLORIOUS HOTELS OF INDIA by ACC Art Books

Glorious Hotels of India is a journey through 40 of the most intriguing hotels across the country. All have been chosen for their unique spirit, and many have never been seen before in a book. India’s rich heritage and contemporary design properties are displayed through sumptuous images and text. Authors Cosmo Samuel Brockway and Harriet Compston have curated these hidden gems, which are scattered through jungles, beaches and tropical cities.

Cosmo Samuel Brockway is a writer who specializes in South Asia and has travelled and lived across India for nearly 20 years. From first visiting India at the age of 17, exploring the coastline by train for several months, to leading cultural tours across the subcontinent, Cosmo has developed a passion for seeking out the unique lesser-known charms India has to offer, as well as for promoting its burgeoning hospitality scene. Cosmo writes about travel, architecture and design. This is his first book.

This is a languid and sensuous look at some of the loveliest hotels in India. Experience Mughal hunting baghs, laced with pavilions and frangipani, soak up the salt-scented charm of seafront villas and gaze upon urban boutique hotels. Every page glints with the promise of a new discovery. The lighting is atmospheric and the textiles and paintings ravish the eye. Each new look reveals an unseen detail – a Nizam’s crystal fan, a serene carved Nandi, and a mother-of-pearl reflection of the Taj Mahal in a frescoed bathroom.

Harriet Compston settled on travel writing, with a focus on India, after editing several luxury titles and living across the world, from Rwanda to Germany. With strong family connections in the subcontinent, Harriet’s first visit saw her travelling solo around the southern states. Harriet has returned frequently ever since, writing on luxury travel. She has a love for adventure, be it discovering hidden places, exploring uncharted territory or trekking in the Himalayas. Karam Puri has been taking photographs across the globe for more than a decade. His books include Dining with the Nawabs, Doon: The Dosco Chronicles, The Indian Golf Story and Lynndale. His images have been published in Harper’s Bazaar, The Sunday Guardian, National Geographic’s The 10 Best of Everything: An Ultimate Guide for Travelers, Verve and The Robb Report. His work has been exhibited at galleries in New York and New Delhi.

we spent a great deal of time in rajasthan, the magical cities of jaipur and udaipur. what i remember most is the heat and the sounds of india, and the beautiful people. i know that the whole experience will remain with me for the rest of my life – my daughter calls it my spiritual home and i think she is right. i long to return. Dame Judi Dench

Savour the subtle peeling back of layers. We see the housekeeper glide along a shadowy floor of Taj Falaknuma Palace, the trail of her lilac dupatta fluttering with authority and intent. In the eyes of portraits, we read the souls of these places, communities at their heart. Stories weave into stories and whet the appetite for further exploring, from the local children enjoying a rainstorm in the swimming pool of Tikli Bottom to Rajput royal Bhavna Singh taking guests at Dev Shree to a temple, fashioned from millennia-old rock, Labrador in tow. India has an effortless magnetism that is reflected in these pages. The properties are vastly different in scale, period and setting, and sing together in a pitchperfect aria hitting each of the country’s highest notes.

ISBN: 978-81-937501-8-6

9 788193 75018 6

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Facing page: Poolside at the Oberoi Amarvilas. Pages 2-3: Presidential Suite at the Leela Palace. Page 4: Billiards Room at Taj Falaknuma Palace. Following page 8: Anteroom at Suján Rajmahal Palace.

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Facing page: Poolside at the Oberoi Amarvilas. Pages 2-3: Presidential Suite at the Leela Palace. Page 4: Billiards Room at Taj Falaknuma Palace. Following page 8: Anteroom at Suján Rajmahal Palace.

Foreword

I D ed i c at i o n To Mossie, my adventurous grandmother, who first brought me to India, and my god-daughters Eliza, Misty May, Celeste and Shambhavi. cosmo

am delighted to introduce this beautifully curated book on the best hotels and places to stay across this vast nation. India has an ancient tradition of hospitality among its many peoples, including my own Rajput culture. My grandfather, H.H. Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II, and my father, H.H. Maharaja Sawai Bhawani Singh Bahadur (MVC), were the first Indian royals to open their property as a luxury hotel in 1958. I watched our erstwhile family home, Rambagh Palace, evolve into one of the great tourist destinations of India. The palace has hosted many important guests. Its success has been followed by Rajmahal Palace, which recently underwent a splendid renovation (seen in this book). Such conversions, many of which are featured here, have without doubt positively contributed to the conservation of India’s heritage as well as the growth of its economy. There is an astonishing breadth of properties, both old and contemporary, across the subcontinent, befitting the scale and richness of India. Glorious Hotels of India is more than just an illustrated book – it is a testament to the incredible evolution of our country’s hospitality scene over the last 30 years. Cosmo and Harriet, alongside photographer Karam Puri, have managed to showcase the truly intriguing and impressive choices open to travellers across this great country of ours. From the romance of Kashmir’s Dal Lake to the pink city of Jaipur to the faded glories of Kolkata, there is much to explore and experience, and no better guide than this fine book.

To my parents, Christopher and Caroline, with so much love and gratitude. harriet

Princess Diya Kumari of Jaipur City Palace, Jaipur, 2018

Foreword

I D ed i c at i o n To Mossie, my adventurous grandmother, who first brought me to India, and my god-daughters Eliza, Misty May, Celeste and Shambhavi. cosmo

To my parents, Christopher and Caroline, with so much love and gratitude. harriet

Princess Diya Kumari of Jaipur City Palace, Jaipur, 2018

Introduction

hen Cosmo and Harriet told me that they were writing a book on ‘glorious’ hotels of India, I was drawn to the project like a moth to a flame. I have devoted the last 20 years of my working life to India and its hotels, but my bond with them goes back to childhood. So, how does one go about discovering the best hotels in a nation as vast as India? Doing so successfully has been crucial to my job as founder of Ampersand Travel. There is only one way to do it: you need to have savvy contacts whose judgement you can trust, keep your eyes and ears open all the time and, when you think you may have found something, you have to personally test it. It’s much like kissing frogs to find out if they are princes. The bulk of them will remain frogs, but on the odd occasion you will find a prince and have something that is genuinely worth writing about. Cosmo and Harriet did just this in the process of researching the book. They spent many months tirelessly criss-crossing India by plane, train and rickshaw, enduring long stints living out of suitcases in order to attain the most authentic knowledge needed to produce a volume of this nature. The book, complete with refreshingly natural yet rich imagery, is a considered move away from the frantic sells of the internet and lingers on each property with a gaze that shares with the reader the very soul of the place. It is this quality that makes Glorious Hotels of India an authoritative guide to some of the finest places to stay on the subcontinent, as well as an elegant and decorative tome. My own experience with the world of Indian hotels came on my first visit to the subcontinent in 1976. I remember it well despite being only four years old. We stopped in Delhi during one of our regular trips between Rome, where I grew up, and my father’s home city, Colombo. I was terribly excited, as my mother had told me that we were staying in a lovely hotel with a huge swimming pool. When we arrived, breathless with excitement, I headed straight for the pool, but to my horror and disappointment there was no water. Of course, a supremely Indian moment unfolded, as the charismatic host with a perfectly pressed shirt and an impressive moustache proudly announced, ‘See, we do have pool, just no water!’ Travels to India used to be full of similar stories: over-optimistic promises, chaotic service, ramshackle buildings, creaky plumbing and broken air-conditioning. For those who appreciate unique charm, many of these shortfalls could be overlooked, but for others it was a place to be approached with trepidation. However, India today is an emerging global superpower and is leading the world in a variety of fields, including hospitality. The hotel industry has matured. Standards have risen beyond all recognition, and there is a break away from the cookie-cutter approach to hotel design, with a growing appreciation for individuality and beautifully restored heritage properties. Indian hoteliers are increasingly well-travelled. They have witnessed the best the world has to offer, and are able and eager to match or exceed what they have seen. Another development is an increasing pride in Indian culture and the confidence to create genuinely Indian hotels. India can now rightly claim to be home to some of the most breathtaking hotels in the world. Some are so incredible that they are as near to heaven as can be found. This book is a confident curation of 40 of the most seductive properties across India, from triumphantly restored royal palaces to pop-art-filled city boutiques. Each story is told through an intimate lens, taking the reader on a memorable, inspiring journey through a wonderland of the splendid, surreal and visionary. Glorious Hotels of India is a fitting tribute to the most diverse, dynamic and exciting hotel scene on Earth. I am delighted to introduce this beautiful book, the only one of its kind on the shelves, as a publication that is both informative and picturesque. James Jayasundera Founder of Ampersand Travel London, 2018

Introduction

Abode Mumbai

bode, one of Mumbai’s first boutique hotels, is a haven of calm in the heart of the city. Tucked away above an elegant cafe in the 100year-old Lansdowne House (once the private residence of the renowned Jewish businessman David Sassoon), the property pays homage to the city’s heritage, from old Bombay to modern Mumbai. It is therefore apt that the current owners, the Shams, have a neighbouring antiques store. Essa Sham bought the property in the early 1980s to be run as a guesthouse. In 2013, the hotel reached its real potential thanks to Sham’s son, Abedin, who after several years in Australia returned with a new vision for the family business – a vision with the city at its centre. Australian architect and interior designer Sian Pascale of Mumbai-based design studio Young Citizens took on the task of restoration, adding colour and texture with a considered industrial style. The result is a hip boho-chic hideaway reflecting the multilayered nature and history of Mumbai. The lobby, with a 19th-century chandelier, leads into the library corner, which is inspired by the old booksellers of Fort, with their tiny spaces stacked with books that can be bought by the kilo. A vibrant collection fills the shelves while the front covers of others have been framed as artwork on the walls. A neon lighting installation at the entrance celebrates the urban facade with a quote from Bombay native Rudyard Kipling. Both the lobby and library play home to the all-day cafe, serving snacks and sandwiches inspired by the city’s gymkhana-club teas and street food such as bhelpuri and other chaats. The 20 rooms are decorated in a colour palette taken from terracotta chai pots and pistachio sweets. Bedside tables have been made from chaat stands. Reclaimed Burma teak, rescued from demolished houses, has been used as flooring. Bedroom light fittings have been created using hand-thrown ceramic lampshades, and there are traditional Bakelite switches on the walls. Bathroom doors, made of salvaged wood, feature mismatched patterned frosted glass, with four of the rooms boasting free-standing bathtubs. Fabrics used for soft furnishings have been largely sourced from vintage saris and textile markets, or handwoven by the charitable organization WomenWeave. Colonial and art-deco hardwood and wicker furniture, some rescued from Mumbai’s scrap yards, dot the hotel. The floors are laid with colourful patterned cement tiles made by a local artisan. The handmade chick blinds add a touch of the Raj. The Shams’ heart for the city doesn’t stop at the design. The property works with a school for the blind that provides massage therapists. There is a women-only driving service. Any leftover soaps are donated to a nearby NGO that works with underprivileged women. The city tours offered by Abode are already a thing of legend for their thoughtful and in-depth approach to showing the soul of Mumbai. The city is a runner’s paradise, too, and the hotel organizes group runs for guests. Mumbai is also home to Bollywood and guests are offered the opportunity to be an extra in a film. As Mumbai continues to blossom in its millennial-friendly incarnation, Abode is an important reminder of how the ‘city that never sleeps’ can thrive into the unfolding century, retaining the magic of a bygone era while grasping hold of a bright future.

Abode Mumbai

Each room at Ahilya by the Sea is filled with treasured antique pieces that the owners have collected from across the globe. Facing page, top: A collection of Catholic crosses, accompanied by striking artwork, adorns a bedroom. Facing page, bottom: Art is a significant part of the property, with the family descended from Antonio Xavier Trindade, known as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rembrandt of the Eastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Left: Malabar House bedrooms are uniquely furnished with a mixture of modern art, antique furniture and vibrant colour schemes. The Roof Garden suites feature darkwood four-poster beds and spacious outdoor terraces, where guests can dine.

Left: The quirky dining room at Purity. Right: Malabar House has a characterful design and is decorated with unique ornaments, which showcases Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s melting pot of cultures, both Eastern and Western. Following page 116, top right: Malabar Escapes Discovery houseboat on Lake Vembanad.

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Top: The 3,700 sq. ft. art-deco Maharaja Suite is decorated with surrealist murals by Stefan Norblin, Ruhlmann faux leopard-skin sofas and original objets. Bottom: Risala, the fine-dining palace restaurant, serves fusion cuisine based on traditional royal recipes.

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tikli bottom Gurugram

pale pink Lutyens-inspired bungalow nestled in a valley just an hour’s drive from central Delhi, Tikli Bottom is a small piece of heaven waiting to be discovered. Built by Martin and Annie Howard in the 1990s, Tikli welcomes visitors from across the world to experience a unique two-acre idyll, created by a couple who have made this corner of India a sanctuary for man, beast and bird. Martin, a former naval attaché and then Rolls Royce director in Delhi, decided, upon retiring, not to return to England. Instead, along with his wife Annie, he built a home just outside the village of Teekli, a few miles from the suburb of Gurugram. The amusing name stems from ‘bottom’ being the archaic word for a lowlying piece of land. The Howards’ love and respect for their adopted homeland runs deep. Tikli is a community and a haven for both the employed Nepali families (overseen by the indomitable Munna, the housekeeper) and local children. Sustainability is key here and there is a deep commitment to the area. Martin has actively fundraised for and built much of the now thriving village school, Gairatpur Baas Panchayat School, resulting in the couple being regarded with affection and respect. The first glimpse of Tikli is seductive – the arching trees, the crescent-shaped swimming pool flanked by a pair of pale pink classical pavilions, the flashing peacocks, and the serenity of sinking into a soft armchair with an ice-cold nimbu pani. The four bedrooms are placed around a pillared courtyard where most of Tikli life takes place with the central ornamental fountain providing a cool focus in the heat of Indian summers. The interiors are an eclectic echo of colonial style, with a light touch of humour and warmth among the antique furniture, mirrors and silver. Four-poster beds are draped in gauze nets and elegant block prints. Jaipur blue pottery sits alongside Country Life magazines and books on Indian history. The two twin bedrooms, the Blue and Pink rooms, and two double rooms boast soft beds from iconic London department store Peter Jones. A more adventurous summer option is sleeping on a charpoy on the roof under the constellations of stars, surrounded by the friendly humps of the Aravalli Range. Works of artists, known and loved by the couple, such as Julian Barrow (whose ashes are in the garden) and Olivia Fraser (married to close friend William Dalrymple), line the walls, offering tranquil views of Tikli and Indian scenes. Prince Edward, Earl of Wessex, former British Prime Minister John Major, textile designer Carolina Irving, and assorted notables have all made the journey to this relaxed corner of Haryana. People write books, shoot films, or simply enjoy a delicious lunch. Guests are unfailingly welcomed as long-lost friends. Communal dining adds to the convivial atmosphere. Meals are taken au plein air with the Howards joining their guests for wide-ranging conversations. The organic food is locally sourced with treats such as cheese and claret imported via Delhi. The kitchen garden supplies the table in abundance and the homemade buffalo-milk yoghurt served at breakfast is courtesy of Martin’s treasured buffaloes. Visitors are proudly taken to the working farm and encouraged to take home the estate-made jam and honey after meeting the local beekeeper, Mahinder Pal. A day picnic visit to the nearby Sultanpur National Park is an enjoyable winter outing. But, above all, Tikli is a place to do nothing, slowly and blissfully – the perfect soft landing to the subcontinent or delicious last course to any adventure.

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be transmitted or reproduced in any form or by any means without prior permission from the publisher. ISBN: 978-81-937501-8-6 © Text: Cosmo Samuel Brockway and Harriet Compston • Photographs: Karam Puri Introduction: James Jayasundera • Map: Tatiana de Nicolay Roli Books, 2018 Published in India by Roli Books M-75, Greater Kailash II Market, New Delhi-110 048, India Phone: ++91-11-40682000 Email: info@rolibooks.com, Website: www.rolibooks.com Design: Sneha Pamneja • Editor: Saachi Khurana Layout: Naresh L. Mondal • Pre-press: Jyoti Dey • Production: Yuvraj Singh All details and facts within the book are correct at the time of going to press; however, they are subject to change without notice. The authors and Roli Books are not liable for any changes to the properties featured. Printed and bound in ACME Tradex India Pvt. Ltd.