Gnarled old vines at Viñedos del Contino, Laguardia
Foreword
Every great wine region has its famous domaines and vineyards. There’s no doubt that Rioja’s fnest wines are world class, but international recognition, like our nation’s football success, has been relatively recent. For the visitor, this is a very good thing.
Wine has been made in Rioja for a very long time. There is some debate over whether the spirit of the ‘true’ Rioja was captured in the 18th century, and lost since – there are no wines around from that era, so we’ll never know. But we all accept that modern Rioja was born in the 19th century. Its centre was Haro, home to some of the most historic wineries not only in Rioja but in all of Spain.
Some of them (like CVNE, which was founded in 1879 by my ancestors, the Real de Asúa brothers) are still owned by their founding families. These historic bodegas, from Haro to Elciego and beyond, are beautiful, unique and, importantly, open to visitors.
Equally interesting are the new domaines, more often than not created by vignerons that above all seek to interpret their vineyards as faithfully as possible. The best produce the most extraordinary wines.
In his 1990 classic, Adventures on the Wine Route, the great American importer Kermit Lynch recommended visiting Beaujolais and Alsace before going to, say, the Côte d’Or or the Médoc. He said the wines would still be outstanding, but more affordable; the locals would be welcoming, and the visiting wine enthusiast would not fnd herself crowded out by the masses or turned away by jaded winery employees.
He forgot to mention Rioja, which has what we all seem to crave nowadays: authenticity. As you walk through villages that smell of wine over harvest time, you will meet vignerons and winemakers, charming bar and restaurant staff, all the time reassured that Rioja is not a tourist destination but a thriving community centred on wine.
This book captures the essence of what makes Rioja a place that every wine lover should visit at least once. It should be in every wine lover’s suitcase.
Victor Urrutia Chief Executive CVNE
July 2024
Grape varieties
Rioja has long been the homeland of Tempranillo, the mainstay of the region’s greatest wines. But as the region evolves, a new generation of ambitious and iconoclastic winemakers is enthusiastically experimenting with all 14 of the grape varieties (fve red and nine white) that are permited here, as well as Merlot, Chardonnay and other international varieties.
Harvesting by hand is still widespread in Rioja
Red grapes
Tempranillo The most famous of all the Rioja grapes and considered indigenous to the region, Tempranillo is the most widely planted grape variety in Rioja – and for good reason. It ripens early (hence the name: temprano means early), it thrives on various soils at different altitudes, and it works in a range of winemaking styles.
As a varietal wine – that is, one made from a single grape variety – Tempranillo traditionally shows aromas of ripe red fruits, herbs and violets; in warmer microclimates, it gives favours of blackcurrant and blackberry – and sometimes blueberry. More commonly, however, you will fnd Tempranillo as the main element of a blend. Testament to its versatility and longevity, the variety has more than 70 synonyms across Spain: in neighbouring Ribera del Duero, it’s called Tinto Fino or Tinta del País; in La Mancha and Valdepeñas, it’s Cencibel; in Catalonia, it’s Ojo de Liebre and Ull de Llebre; and in Madrid, Tinta de Toro.
As much as 85% of red wine in Rioja is produced from Tempranillo, either as a varietal wine or as a blend. In a blend, it plays the same role that Cabernet Sauvignon does in Bordeaux: it provides much of the texture and structure to the wine, while also giving it its long ageing potential. Garnacha is often used to fll the mid-palate and add weight, while Graciano adds acidity and foral characters. Importantly, Tempranillo works well with oak, too, absorbing favour without being overwhelmed. Aged Tempranillo, in particular, gives delightful aromas of dried tobacco, cedar, sweet spices and undergrowth.
Tempranillo has so many different styles that it is hard to pin down its character. In the higher-altitude vineyards of Rioja Alavesa, wines made from the grape tend to be deeper in colour and slightly fuller in body, with darker fruit aromas and more extract. In Rioja Alta, the wines are lighter in body and higher in acidity, erring towards a more elegant, traditional style. In Rioja Oriental, Tempranillo tends to be fuller, richer and more red-fruited. Many wineries
The towns and villages of Rioja
From the hubbub of Logroño, to the quiet of Elciego or San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja’s towns and villages are typical of this part of Spain: working communities that welcome visitors but have lost none of their character to the rise of mass tourism.
Rioja Alavesa
Labastida,
Haro
A town with a rich history, Haro has a cluster of some of Rioja’s most famous wineries around its railway station, and the labyrinthine cobbled streets of its picturesque old quarter are lined with restaurants and upscale hotels. Although it is not as central as Logroño, Haro is still a good base for exploring the wineries of Rioja Alta. See Where to eat and drink in Haro (page 155).
Logroño
The region’s capital, Logroño is a charming town that is geographically in the centre of Rioja, making it an ideal spot for a weekend visit. It is famous for the tapas bars on and around Calle del Laurel, and an evening spent wandering from bar to bar is a rite of passage for anyone who loves the Spanish way of life. Logroño is also an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, so you are likely to see dozens of pilgrims carrying wooden staffs and shells. The splendid cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda is just one of the fne old buildings standing in the old town. See Where to fnd the best tapas in Logroño (page 149).
Labastida
This beautiful walled town in Rioja Alavesa is notable for being the birthplace of 18th-century winemaker Manuel Quintano (see History, page 14). It is also home to Bodegas y Viñedos Labastida, one of the best cooperatives in northern Spain, and Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri. Originally a 14th-century monastery, Remelluri is now run by Telmo Rodríguez, one of Rioja’s most prominent winemakers. Other places of interest in the area include the ruined monastery of Santa María de Toloño.
The best bodegas for tours and tastings
Tastings in some of the world’s most awesome cellars, bike or Segway tours, lunches with your own personal chef or picnics in a hot-air balloon foating above the vineyards – Rioja offers some unforgetable bodega visits. Here are some of the best.
The best way to discover a wine region is to visit it. This is especially true of Rioja now, because the region has undergone incredible change since the turn of the 21st century: new, exciting producers are popping up in tastings around the world, and classic winemakers are fnally having their moment in the sun. The picturesque winemaking villages and towns are becoming destinations for wine lovers keen to learn more about the region.
‘Exploring the wineries and tasting the wines with the people who made them is an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed’
In turn, Rioja’s tourism infrastructure is catching up with demand. Pioneers such as Marqués de Riscal and Edmond de Rothschild (owner of the deluxe Palacio de Samaniego) have given the area a much-needed boost with what today’s wine drinker desires: understated and relaxed luxury. There is also an expansive line-up of activities on offer – from cycling tours to bespoke wine lunches with your own personal chef. You can even foat above the Tempranillo vines in a hot-air balloon, with picnic included. Diversity is Rioja’s greatest strength: journey back in time in the ancient cellars of CVNE – the winery boasts an unrivalled collection of vintages from the 19th century – or experience the striking modernity of Roda’s chic tasting room.
Walking the vineyards, exploring the wineries and tasting the wines alongside the people who made them is an opportunity that should not be missed. And while learning about the relationship between variety, soil and climate is already rewarding, doing so in the shadow of the majestic Sierra de Cantabria, in the heartland of exceptional Spanish wine, is an experience that is hard to beat. The list that follows includes some of the very best visits and tastings from across Rioja.
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Restaurante Vivanco
N-
232 km ##2, 26330
Briones
Vivanco has been spreading the good word of Rioja since 2004, when it opened its Museum of Wine Culture. But man cannot survive on knowledge alone, so the bodega is also home to a circular restaurant with impressive panoramic views over the vineyards and the Cantabrian Mountains. Championing local produce cooked in a wood-fred oven and on grills fuelled by vine twigs, rootstocks and oak from old wine casks, chef Maribel Frades riffs on traditional Riojan dishes with contemporary fourishes. With close atention paid to texture and presentation, there are several tasting menus on offer – from the six-course Riojan Heritage Menu, to Harmonies, which includes sommelier-selected wine pairings. Standout offerings include morcilla croquetes with roasted red peppers, cod loin in a garlic and red chilli emulsion, and spiced French brioche toast with grilled pear and Tempranillo ice cream. There’s also a tapas bar on the terrace for those seeking light bites overlooking the vines. vivancoculturadevino.es/en/ experiences/restaurant
Where winemakers dine
The place everyone is talking about in Rioja is Nublo in Haro (see page 157).
Miguel Caño, the chef and owner of this 16th-century building, worked on the research team at Mugaritz. His team at Nublo is full of ambition and o ers a unique fine-dining experience. It supports the young winemaking community and local producers, with a commitment to wines from villages and growers that will one day be Rioja’s next iconic producers. The place is amazing, and dining there gives you a sense of the history of the space.
Telmo Rodríguez, Remelluri
The best tapas in Logroño
Calle del Laurel, in Rioja’s provincial capital Logroño, has become an unmissable tapas destination. Walking down this street, as well as those adjacent to it, visitors get a real feel for the energy of the city.
Logroño,
‘Savoury, earthy wines with powerful acidity and firm tannins are staples of classic Rioja’
Second wines To borrow a term from Bordeaux, ‘second wines’ refers to wines that don’t come from the best parcels of the best vineyards, or the grapes that don’t make it into the top cuvée. When made by the best producers, they can be very good indeed – and excellent value. For example, La Rioja Alta produces two grandes reservas known as 890 and 904. Complex and capable of great ageing, they are deservedly pricey. The next wine in the portfolio is the excellent Viña Ardanza, a reserva whose length of ageing would allow it to be classifed gran reserva. A stunning wine, at less than half the price of its more exalted siblings.
La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza 2016
López de Heredia Bosconia 2012
Muga Reserva Muga Selección Especial 2019
Artuke Pies Negro 2020
Señorío de P Peciña Crianza 2016
Bozeto de Exopto 2022
Classically styled wines Savoury, earthy wines with powerful acidity and frm tannins are staples of classic, traditional Rioja. Much atention is focused on the new wave of producers, but many bodegas have been making wine in the traditional style for decades. They can be underappreciated but are very good value.
