National Culinary Review (May/June 2024)

MODERN BARBECUE AND GLOBAL SMOKE

Food Truck Madness Behind the Front Lines

TAKING TASTEBUDS TO

GROUND

Ground pork is full of flavorful possibilities! Plus you can feel good about eating it. Per 3oz. serving, lean ground pork has just 159 calories and 26g of protein.* Pork is also a carrier food, meaning that it may help people consume more under-consumed nutrients like iron and fiber and food groups like vegetables, legumes and whole grains.*

• Add chopped mushrooms to

• Mix chopped parsley, onion, and garlic with ground pork for flavorful meatballs

• Add pepper, potatoes, and ground pork to a breakfast egg casserole

BURRATA

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Enhance your menu by creating a new, fresh Burrata salad with fruit, tomatoes and prosciutto. Or enrich your pizza or pasta by topping with a garnish of this fresh, creamy cheese just before serving. scan for more info and samples

A look at the agenda and speakers lined up for this year’s convention, held July 14-17 at the Phoenix Convention Center in Arizona.

Behind the Front Lines

For Military Appreciation Month, ACF chefs from different branches of the U.S. military talk about their work and experiences; plus, a wrap-up of the annual Joint Culinary Training Exercise.

DEPARTMENTS

18 Management

For June’s ACF trend — food trucks — successful operators talk about their day-to-day management and menuing.

A deeper dive into ACF’s trend for May — modern barbecue — by an industry trendologist.

A New Orleans chef shares tips for dry-aging fish to maximize profits and minimize waste.

ACF Chef William Racin, CEPC®, and a Westmoreland County Community College apprentice focus on the classic French gâteau St.-Honoré dessert.

For Mental Health Awareness Month, an ACF chef offers concrete tips for improving the wellbeing of your staff.

ACF Chef David Carachure showcases his twist on the Mexican breakfast staple concha.

Country club chefs talk about their recent menu innovations and presentation techniques.

Chef-to-Chef

Paul Sorgule, AAC®

Pastry

Robert Wemischner

RECOGNIZING THE CURRENT AND ACTIVE ACF CHEF MEMBERS WHO ARE FEATURED AND QUOTED THROUGHOUT THE PAGES OF THIS ISSUE

Behind the Front Lines

Karlatta Brown (Chief Warrant Officer)

Jazmen Davis, CWPC® (Technical Sgt.)

Michael Edwards, CEC®, PCEC®, CCA® (Senior Chief Petty Officer)

Edward Fuchs, CEC, CCE® (Chief Culinary Specialist)

Jeffrey Phillips, CC® (Army Maj. Gen., retired)

Edward Manley (U.S. Lt. Commander, retired)

David A. Marcelli, CCE, CEC, PCC®, AAC (Master Sgt.)

David Ivey-Soto, CEC, MBA

Guy Winks, CEC

Classical vs. Modern

William Racin, CEPC

Hope Britz

ACF Chef Profile

Caitlyn Drzyzga

Kambree Thomas, CC

Frank Costantino, Ph.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC

Chapter Close-Up

Chris Aquilino

Sandra Birmingham

Chef Jason “Jay Z” Ziobrowski, CEC

Segment Spotlight

Phoebe Beiter, CCC®

Adam Deviney, CEC

Joseph Watters

Paul Sorgule, AAC

Adam Deviney, CEC

Phoebe Beiter, CCC

Kambree Thomas, CC

Caitlyn Drzyzga

Robert Wemischner

William Racin, CEPC, and Hope Britz (right)

Jazmen Davis, CWPC

Guy Winks, CEC

Edward Fuchs, CEC, CCE

Health

Jeffrey Schlissel

Pastry

David Carachure

Editor-in-Chief

Amelia Levin

Creative Services Manager

David Ristau

Graphic Designer

Armando Mitra

Advertising and Event Sales

Eric Gershowitz

Director of Marketing and Communications

Alan Sterling

Contributing Editors

Amanda Baltazar, John Bartimole, Christine Blank, Mike Kostyo, Jeffrey Spear, Robert Wemischner

Copy Editor

Erica Demarest

American

Culinary Federation, Inc.

6816 Southpoint Parkway • Ste 400 • Jacksonville, FL 32216 (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 ncr@acfchefs.net • ACFSales@mci-group.com • www.acfchefs.org

Board of Directors

President

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC

Immediate Past President

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC

National Secretary

Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC

National Treasurer

Kyle Richardson, CEC, CCE, AAC

American Academy of Chefs Chair

Joe G. Aiello, CEC, AAC, HOF

Vice President Central Region

Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC

Vice President Northeast Region

Ray McCue, CEC, AAC

Vice President Southeast Region

Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC

Vice President Western Region

Greg Matchett, CEC, AAC

Executive Director

Christopher Tanner, CEC, CCE, AAC Advisor

Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT

The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), May/June 2024, Volume 48, Number 3, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.

The National Culinary Review® is mailed, and periodical postage is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216.

It is with great pleasure that I introduce this issue featuring military chefs for Military Appreciation Month in May.

In this issue, we aim to shed light on the profound impact of foodservice in the military. From the dining facilities to the front lines, culinary professionals play a vital role in nourishing our troops and boosting morale in the most challenging of environments. We honor the dedication and skill of these culinary warriors who ensure that our armed forces are well-fed and ready to face any obstacle.

This issue also features our May trend, Modern Barbecue and Global Smoke, and our June trend, Food Truck Madness. ACF trends will also be at the forefront of education at the fast-approaching 2024 ACF National Convention, taking place July 14-17. I am excited to share that our culinary competitions will be back on the tradeshow floor this year after a bit of a hiatus! This is a fantastic opportunity for our members to showcase their skills, learn from one another and celebrate the vibrant culinary community that defines the ACF.

I encourage each and every one of you to register for the National Convention and join us for what promises to be an unforgettable experience. Whether you are a seasoned chef or a passionate culinary enthusiast, there is something for everyone at this year’s event. Let us come together to celebrate our shared love for food, camaraderie and the pursuit of culinary excellence.

Until then, throughout Military Appreciation Month, let us not forget the sacrifices made by our brave servicemen and women. Their courage and dedication inspire us to uphold the values of honor, integrity and service in everything we do. Together, let us honor their legacy and express our deepest gratitude for their service to our nation and their embodiment of the true spirit of service and selflessness.

In closing, I extend my heartfelt thanks to each of you for your continued support and dedication to the ACF. It is your passion and commitment that make our organization truly exceptional. May we continue to inspire one another, uplift our community and strive for excellence in all our endeavors.

Chefs, I got your six!

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC National President, American Culinary Federation

Es un gran placer presentar esta edición con chefs militares para el Mes de Apreciación Militar en mayo.

En este número, nuestro objetivo es arrojar luz sobre el profundo impacto del servicio de alimentos en las fuerzas armadas. Desde los comedores hasta las líneas del frente, los profesionales culinarios desempeñan un papel vital a la hora de nutrir a nuestras tropas y elevar la moral en los entornos más desafiantes. Honramos la dedicación y habilidad de estos guerreros culinarios que garantizan que nuestras fuerzas armadas estén bien alimentadas y listas para enfrentar cualquier obstáculo.

Esta edición también presenta nuestra tendencia del mes de mayo, Modern Barbecue and Global Smoke, y nuestra tendencia de junio, Food Truck Madness. Las tendencias de la ACF también estarán a la vanguardia de la educación en la próxima Convención Nacional de la ACF de 2024, que tendrá lugar del 14 al 17 de julio. ¡Me emociona compartir que nuestras competencias culinarias volverán a la feria este año después de una pequeña pausa! Esta es una oportunidad fantástica para que nuestros miembros muestren sus habilidades, aprendan unos de otros y celebren la vibrante comunidad culinaria que define a la ACF.

Los animo a cada uno de ustedes a registrarse para la Convención Nacional y unirse a nosotros en lo que promete ser una experiencia inolvidable. Ya sea usted un chef experimentado o un apasionado entusiasta de la cocina, hay algo para todos en el evento de este año. Unámonos para celebrar nuestro amor común por la comida, la camaradería y la búsqueda de la excelencia culinaria.

Hasta entonces, durante el Mes de Agradecimiento Militar, no olvidemos los sacrificios realizados por nuestros valientes hombres y mujeres en servicio. Su coraje y dedicación nos inspiran a defender los valores de honor, integridad y servicio en todo lo que hacemos. Juntos, honremos su legado y expresemos nuestra más profunda gratitud por su servicio a nuestra nación y su encarnación del verdadero espíritu de servicio y altruismo.

Para terminar, extiendo mi más sincero agradecimiento a cada uno de ustedes por su continuo apoyo y dedicación a la ACF. Es su pasión y compromiso lo que hace que nuestra organización sea verdaderamente excepcional. Que sigamos inspirándonos unos a otros, elevando a nuestra comunidad y esforzándonos por alcanzar la excelencia en todos nuestros esfuerzos.

¡Chefs, tengo sus seis!

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC Presidente Nacional, Federación Culinaria Americana

NEWS BITES

Read This!

Register for the 2024 ACFEF Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Bowl

This year’s Knowledge Bowl will take place during convention on Tuesday, July 16, from 1-2:30 p.m. Teams compete in a Jeopardy-style competition with questions covering topics such as cooking techniques, nutrition, baking and safety/sanitation. The deadline to apply is May 15. Visit acfchefs.org/knowledgebowl to download the 2024 rules and guidelines and to apply.

From Many We Are One

By ACF Chef Ferdinand Metz, CMC®, AAC, HOF, HBOT

A past president of the ACF and the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y., Chef Metz delivers this book chronicling his meandering road as an immigrant chef. He provides a macro view of all things food, cooking and hospitality.

“From Many We Are One” details the rebirth and globalization of American cuisine, explaining how the historic evolution of food and cooking influenced America’s contemporary food culture, while leaving an imprint on the nation’s health, with a special focus on the contributions of women and African American chefs. Available on Amazon and select bookstores and libraries nationwide. Proceeds from the book will go to the Metz/ Wang Family Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization, to provide financial support to culinarians for scholarships, education and training. (The foundation distributed more than $90,000 in support of unemployed foodservice personnel during the pandemic). Going to convention? Purchase a book ahead of time to get it signed by Chef Metz in person!

ACF Chef Louis Marinelli, CEC, AAC, chef/instructor at Vinal Technical High School, past president of the ACF Connecticut Chefs Association

ACF Chef Hans Aeschbacher Sr., AAC, ACF Chicago Chefs, known as the former chef of Lawry’s the Prime Rib and Smith & Wollensky in Chicago

Welcome Back to the Table

It is more important than ever to validate your culinary skills to help increase your job and promotion opportunities. To support you during these challenging times, the ACF Certification Commission is offering a limited opportunity to renew ACF certifications that have been expired for more than 12 months. Applicants must document 80 hours of continuing education (CEHs) within the last five years, to include 8-hour refreshers each in nutrition and safety/sanitation. Interested candidates must submit an application and fee by May 30 and complete the CEH requirement by Dec. 31. For more information, send an email to certify@acfchefs.org.

Competition Corner

A round of applause for everyone who participated in the ACF National Qualifier Competitions!

Regional qualifier competitions were held in March and April. The following competitors will advance to the ACF National Competitions at the 2024 ACF National Convention — congratulations to all!

ACF MasterCraft Culinary Educator Summit

Sunday, July 14

Are you shaping the next generation of culinary and pastry professionals? Secondary, post-secondary, workforce development chef instructors and CTE professionals of all levels are invited to participate in this one-day summit exclusively for culinary educators. In a supportive and collaborative environment, we’ll challenge both new and more seasoned culinary educators to expand their areas of expertise, while sharing their passion for teaching future chefs and cooks, with sessions designed specifically to encourage networking and knowledge sharing between instructors. Summit attendees earn eight CEHs; a specialized certificate is given upon successful completion of the written exam. Separate registration required.

Northeast Regional

March 1-2, SUNY Erie (Erie Community College), Buffalo N.Y. Chef of the Year ACF Chef Spyridon Giannakoulopoulos, CEC (Gold)

Pastry Chef of the Year ACF Chef Erin Reed, CEPC, CCE (Silver)

Student Team Champions SUNY Delhi: Michael Fanning, McKena Giles, Moses Rojas, Brennan Spencer, Jahnasia Sutton (Gold)

Student Chef of the Year Mikayla C. Pabroada, Culinary Institute of New York at Monroe College (Gold)

Student Pastry Chef of the Year Jewelia Ralston, SUNY Broome Community College (Gold)

Judges: ACF Chefs Michael Schmidt, CEC; Nick Zakharoff, CEC; Andy Chlebana, CMPC, CCA; Alan Neace, CEC, AAC; Gregory Skibinski, CEC, AAC; Victor Sommo, CEC; Michael Stamets, CEC

Western Regional

March 11-12, Johnson County Community College, Overland Park, Ks.

Chef of the Year ACF Chef Tom Tobin (Bronze)

Student Team Champions Orange Coast College: Claire Arredondo, Morgan Downie, Blanca Granados, Genisis Mascareno, Monique Robinson (Bronze)

(No Pastry Chef of the Year, Student Chef of the Year or Student Pastry Chef of the Year competitors)

Judges: ACF Chefs Frank Costantino, Ph.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC; Edward Adel, CEC, AAC; J. Kevin Storm, CEC, AAC; Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF

Southeast Region

April 12-13, Keiser University, Sarasota, Fla.

Chef of the Year ACF Chef Anna Beatriz G. Bote, CEC (Gold)

Student Team Champions Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College: Abbey Franklin, Josyph Ethyn Jester, Avery Lathan, Rebecca McElreath, Yajaira SandovalCastaneda (Silver)

Student Chef of the Year Nikolas C. Abbott, CC, Asheville Buncombe Technical Community College (Gold)

Student Pastry Chef of the Year Ila Seamans, Guilford Technical Community College (Silver)

(No Pastry Chef of the Year competitors)

Judges: ACF Chefs Frank Costantino, Ph.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC; René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC; Steven Jilleba, CCE, CMC, AAC; Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF

Central Region

April 17-18, Culinary Institute of Michigan, Port Huron, Mich.

Chef of the Year ACF Chef Frank R. Turchan, II, CEC (Silver)

Pastry Chef of the Year ACF Chef Kelli D. Marks (Bronze)

Student Chef of the Year Ashly Winkelman, Culinary Institute of Michigan at Baker College (Gold)

Student Pastry Chef of the Year Allison White, Schoolcraft College (Gold)

Student Team Champions Joliet Junior College: Ryan Radetski, Olivia Valentino, Nalia Warmack, Nicole Wiseman, Thomas Yanek (Gold)

Judges: ACF Chefs Darrin Aoyama, CEPC, AAC; Michael Beriau, CEC, AAC, HOF; R. Andrew Chlebana, II, CMPC, CCA; Frank Costantino, Ph.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC; Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC; Joseph Decker, CMPC; Kevin P. Gawronski, CMC; Alan J. Neace, Sr., CEC, AAC; Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF; Andrew Sayes, CMC; Michael A. Schmidt, CEC; David J. Turcotte, CEC, AAC

Congratulations to the following gold medal winners from recent ACF-sanctioned regional competitions!

Nov. 18: ACF Capital District Central New York, SUNY Broome Culinary & Events Center

W-Skills: Mariela Romero-Vasquez, Anya Atkins, Beatrice Heirigs, Moses Rojas

SWP-Skills: Ana Lee Sun Palmer, CC, CPC

SK1: Emani Douglas, Humza Hussain

SK4: Indio Alvarado-Robles

SP1: Alexandra Naylor, Jewelia Ralston

SWP-Skills: Ana Lee Sun Palmer, CC, CPC

Feb. 17: ACF Atlanta Chefs Association, Sprayberry High School

F1: Julio C. Chavez

Feb. 23-24: ACF Michigan Chefs de Cuisine, Dorsey College

SK: Maddilyn Giupa, Allison White, CC, Novirah Lone, CC, Jordan Demchok, Raven Wiseman

SW: Zoie White, Jeffrey Behrick, Owen Plank, Marios Khammi, Noah Borce

SWP: Ella Mislevy, Zoie White, Anais Gomez, Katie Tomison

F4: ACF Chefs Lionel Hughes, CEC, Stephen J. Valenti, CEC, Kevin L. Penn, CEC, CCA, Jonathan S. Bastianelli, CEC, Jeremy Abbey, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC

Feb. 28: ACF Raleigh Durham Area Chef’s Association, Wake Tech Community College

SD - Sugar Showpiece: Claire Olinger, Jimena Rivera, Christy Johnson, Mei Goodrich, Theta Nolan

SD - Chocolate Showpiece: Victoria Dunn, Avery Weems, Abigail Jones, Nour Nasra, Jocelyn Guerrero-Aparicio

March 4: NACUFS Midwest, Little Rock Marriott

W: ACF Chef Bouakhanh Greene, CEC

March 4: NACUFS Southern, Little Rock Marriott

W: Chad McDonald, ACF Chef Rudiger Bernard, CEC

“

THIS YEAR, WE’RE BRINGING BACK ALL OF THE COMPETITIONS TO THE TRADE SHOW FLOOR SO WE HOPE THERE WILL BE MORE ENERGY AND EXCITEMENT AS OPPOSED TO HOSTING IT OFF-SITE. WHEN YOU COME TO CHECK OUT THE TRADE SHOW, COME SEE THE COMPETITIONS, TOO! WINNERS WILL BE ANNOUNCED DURING THE PRESIDENT’S GALA AS IN THE PAST.”

– ACF Competition Chair Chef Frank Costantino, Ph.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC

Salut

The ACF Triad Chapter, NC, Inc.’s annual ball raised $12,000 in support of ACFEF Chef & Child Initiative.

The ACF Professional Chefs Association of South Jersey held its 50th President’s Charity Ball in February.

The ACF Long Island Chapter held its annual culinary gala in March, during which ACF Chef Nancy Kombert, CEC, CCE, was inducted as the new chapter president. Have news to share? Email NCR Editor Amelia Levin, alevin@acfchefs.org.

ACF Staff Spotlight

Michael Tadlock Director of Information Technology

Q: How long have you been with the ACF?

A: I joined ACF in July 2001, so this July will be my 23rd year.

Q: How did you end up joining ACF?

A: I guess you could call me a classic career changer. My original degree in college [University of Florida] was political science, with a background on Eastern European relations. As part of this degree, we had to study a foreign language. I started off with Russian and migrated to Polish. I even spent a summer semester in Poland as part of an exchange program with a Polish university. This was at a time when the Berlin Wall was still up and the Cold War was still going on, so it was an interesting study at the time. But, as life progresses and I graduated college, I ended up doing nothing in that field. I was working at a nursery, and the owner asked me what I wanted to do. And I said, you know, if I had everything in my powers, I probably would go back to school and go into IT — that was in the late ‘90s when computers were really taking off. So that’s what I did — I went back to school and graduated with a computer science degree from the University of North Florida. After graduation I saw an opening for a technology assistant position at ACF in the local paper. I applied and was offered the job, which I accepted. The office was a mile and a half from my house at the time so [the job] was very convenient and seemed interesting to me.

Q: Nearly 23 years later, what is your current role? What are your main responsibilities?

A: I am currently the director of information technology for ACF. I primarily focus on maintaining and updating our membership database, which is called IMIS. I am always looking at opportunities for reducing customizations and guiding data cleanup. A lot of what I do is supporting or assisting other departments. When people have a need for a certain type of reporting, or they need statistics or assistance with processes, I like to try to figure out what is a good way of doing something and how to improve a process. I strive for things that are repeatable, consistent and therefore efficient. I also work with Kevin Blackston, our senior web administrator, who has been with ACF for over 10 years, to handle website updates if there is new information that needs to go out. I also assist with events:

putting the event online, but also helping on-site at convention. When we have new employees, I’m part of the process of getting their equipment ready for them — getting their phone line ready, their building access, email accounts and those things.

Q: What have you enjoyed most about working for the ACF over the years?

A: The thing that I always key in on are the people that I have had the opportunity to meet, including both employees and members. And I like having been in situations where I’m affecting a positive change. Even though I previously said I like repeatability, I do still like to have the flexibility of having a varied set of things to be involved in. This has happened when there’s a change in direction or focus. If there’s a new person on a team and they’re trying to get up to speed on a project, or they’re trying to implement something, people have come to me because it’s helpful to understand some history or have a backstory about what’s going on. I am always willing to provide that insight from my perspective. I can’t say why something necessarily exists, but I can tell you that it does exist. Sometimes there have been suggestions for process improvements that actually occurred three or four or even 10 years prior. Either way, if a new direction is chosen, I always get on board and support the team in the best way to move forward and make new processes work — which is so important.

Q: Even though your work is mostly behind the scenes, you’re a familiar face at ACF conventions and events. What do you enjoy about that part of the job?

A: Just having the opportunity to get out of the office and meet our members is really enjoyable, and I like interacting with everyone and learning about what’s important to them. I really enjoy seeing the joy, excitement and pride our members have in their craft. It’s so great to see members grow professionally over the course of their careers. I remember seeing students come back years later in their mid-careers and even go on to win awards. It’s great to see such loyalty and involvement in our organization, and what we’re [the staff] trying to do for them is making a difference.

2024 American Academy of Chefs and Honorary AAC Candidates for Induction

The American Academy of Chefs (AAC), otherwise known as ACF’s honor society, represents the highest standards of professionalism in our organization and industry. The AAC’s primary mission is to promote the education of all culinarians through mentorship, student scholarships and grants for professional chefs looking to further their careers. We are proud to present our 2024 AAC and Honorary AAC candidates for induction. If you have any reason to disagree with these lists, please contact Joe G. Aiello, CEC, AAC, HOF, academy chair, chefjoeaiello@gmail.com, or Karen Stamper, AAC administrator, kstamper@acfchefs.org

2024 AAC Candidates for Induction

Leonard G. Bailey, II, CEC ACF Rio Grande Valley Chapter

Danny Bungenstock, CEC, CCA

ACF Greater Cincinnati Chapter

Sarah M. Deckert, CEC

ACF Nation’s Capital Chefs Association

David J. Durante, CEC, CCA

ACF Caxambas Chapter of Southwest Florida

David Kasper, Sr., CEC, CCA

ACF Professional Chefs/Cooks Association of Rochester

Drew Patterson, CEC, CCA

ACF Columbus Chapter

Len Pawelek, CEC Texas Chefs Association

Scott C. Ross, CEC, CCA

ACF Caxambas Chapter of Southwest Florida

Michael J. Stamets, CEC

ACF Capital District - Central NY

Clyde R. Tanner, CEC

ACF Gulf to Lakes Chef & Cooks Association

Chas Tatigian, CEC, CCA ACF Caxambas Chapter of Southwest Florida

Melissa B. Trimmer, CEPC

ACF Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association

Frank R. Turchan, II, CEC

ACF Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association

Jake Williams, CEC

ACF Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association

R. Troy Wilson, CEC ACF Beehive Chefs Chapter

2024 HAAC Candidates for Induction

Keith A. Boston, CEC ACF Epicurean Club

John T. Byrne ACF Minneapolis Chefs Chapter

Mary Chamberlin

Colin Hudson, CEC, CCA ACF Miami Chapter

Salvatore Saja

ACF Chicago Chefs

Shawn Smith

Hattie Mae & PALS Foundation, CEO and Chairman

2024 ACF National Convention Preview

We’re only a couple months away from the 2024 ACF National Convention, taking place July 14-17 at the Phoenix Convention Center in Arizona. Don’t miss this chance to attend one of the most highly anticipated annual gatherings of chefs, students and foodservice professionals in the country. Full registration includes access to educational sessions, networking opportunities, a trade show with more than 60 vendors displaying the latest and greatest food products, equipment and more, a pass to the President’s Gala and awards ceremony — plus, a front-row view of the competition kitchens, which we brought back to the trade show floor this year.

Scan for the Full Agenda!

Sunday, July 14

Board of Governors Meeting

11:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.

Welcome Reception 6:30 – 8:30 p.m.

Monday, July 15

Opening Session: The Challenging Journey of Developing a Cooking and Food Philosophy 9 – 10 a.m.

The legendary ACF Chef Ferdinand Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF, HBOT, will look at the fundamental nature of how we think about food and cooking. He’ll answer philosophical questions on how the importance of sensory perceptions has influenced our and our customers’ appreciation of food.

Chapters Supporting Chapters Meet-Up

10:30 – 11:30 a.m.

Maximize Your Culinary Genius With Chat GPT

10:30 – 11:30 a.m.

Whether you’re an executive chef seeking efficiency or a frustrated culinary artist chasing the muse, this session, presented by ACF Chef Tiffany Poe, CEC , will provide you with handson exercises and case studies to get the most out of AI assistance.

Soul of Cooking: BBQ, Business & Balanced Books 10:30 a.m. – 1 p.m.

During this breakout session, join ACF Chef Keith Taylor of Zachary’s BBQ Soul Kitchens & Catering as he demonstrates an interactive creole jambalaya demo, followed by a lighthearted video and discussion on which techniques and methods he uses to manage prime cost and recipe management for events and a la carte services.

Chaos Cooking: An Aggressive Mashup of Global Flavors

Noon – 1 p.m.

Expertly prepared but irreverently conceived, “chaos cooking” is taking chef-driven flavors in fun and unexpected directions. While exploring a trend driven by consumer buzz and social media, ACF Chef Kurt Kwiatkowski, CEC, CCA, AAC, Gordon Food Service, will review a variety of dishes and concepts that probably shouldn’t go together but definitely do.

Kiełbasa Wokół Stołu (“Sausage Around the Table”)

Noon – 1 p.m.

ACF Chef Joe Parajecki will showcase the secrets behind kielbasa, one of Poland’s 400 recognized varieties of Polish

sausage. Join us to learn how it’s made, explore its rich history, and discuss its cultural significance.

Awards Luncheon

1:15 – 2:15 p.m.

Good to Great; Building Culinary Excellence

2:30 – 3:30 p.m.

Join us for this session as ACF Chef Tim Recher, CEC, AAC , Frenchman’s Creek Beach and Country Club, a member of the 2024 ACF Team USA, speaks on the significance of building a strong personal brand and its connection to organizational culture.

Kimchi: A Story of Fermentation, Family and the American Dream

2:30 – 3:30 p.m.

ACF Chef Anthony Jung, CEC, will be joined by his mother, Chef Yeong Ja Jung, and together they will share insights into traditional Korean preservation techniques.

AI for Culinary Operations

4 – 5 p.m.

ACF Chef Rich Rosendale, CMC, explores the forefront of culinary innovation with “The AI-Powered Chef,” a showcase of Rosendale Collective’s cutting-edge use of artificial intelligence. Learn how digital cloning and other AI technologies are revolutionizing kitchen operations, enhancing menu planning and elevating recipe development to new heights of creativity and precision.

“Make It Happen, Chef” 4 – 5 p.m.

ACF Chef Ken Arnone, CMC, has dealt with myriad health issues over the last 25 years and will share his tips on how he has learned to prioritize and balance raising a family, running a business, achieving CMC status and striving to stay healthy.

Tuesday, July 16

ACF National Competitions (trade show floor)

6 a.m. – 5 p.m.

American Academy of Chefs Fellows Meeting

Knowledge Bowl 1 – 2:30 p.m.

Tuesday, July 16

American Academy of Chefs Dinner

6 – 10 p.m.

This year’s dinner will take place at the Hilton Phoenix Resort at the Peak. Transportation will be provided. Black tie requested.

Wednesday, July 17

Culinology at Work 8:30 – 9:30 a.m.

Join ACF Chef Greg Boggs, senior chef, Campbell’s, for a demo and tasting that relates to the process of creating a new “gold standard” recipe that delivers on one of ACF’s 2024 trends: Global Pantry.

The Journey to Culinary Freedom of the Soul 8:30 – 9:30 a.m.

During this breakout session, ACF Chef LaKisha Harris, owner, Soul-Filled Eatery, will take you on an intellectual journey from the transatlantic slave trade to the emersion of a cuisine designed by enslaved people.

A Culinary Medicine Call To Action 10:30 – 11:30 a.m.

ACF Chef Jim Perko Sr. CEC, AAC, executive chef, Cleveland Clinic, will discuss culinary medicine and how chefs can significantly elevate its impact by forging partnerships with health care providers, school food services and teaching kitchens across the world, as well as reveal best practices for applying and preparing prescribed, delicious nutrition consults.

Brunch 10:30 – 11:30 a.m.

Crafting Culinary Magic: Exploring the Art of Culinary Mash-Ups

Noon – 1 p.m.

Join ACF Chef Jason Lynn, CEC, as he takes beloved and well-known dishes and puts a unique spin on them by introducing new ingredients and techniques as well as a blending of cultures.

Fueling Resilience: Managing Foodservice Industry Stress With Fitness and Diet

Noon – 1 p.m.

Celebrity Chef Andre Rush, HAAC, moderates this panel featuring ACF Chefs Paul Jensen, II, CEC, CCA, AAC, Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC, Tim Recher, CEC, AAC, who will talk about how to use fitness, diet and other forms of self-care as powerful tools for enhancing resilience and managing stress that is often seen in the demanding, high-pressure lifestyle of foodservice professionals.

Spice Up Your Menu With Pueblo Chiles

Noon – 1 p.m.

Join ACF Chef Mo Montgomery, CEC, culinary director, Fuel & Iron, for a discussion and demo on the heritage and culinary versatility of pueblo chiles, presented in collaboration with the Pueblo Chile Growers Association of Pueblo, Colorado.

The Missing Ingredient

1:30 – 2:30 p.m.

ACF Pastry Chef Chrissy Jensen, CEPC, will teach us how to modify menus to accommodate special diets while maintaining menu integrity and flavor profiles.

Umami in Fermentation

1:30 – 2:30 p.m.

Join Kumiko Ninomiya of the Umami Information Center as she presents a seminar on the topic of the fifth taste known as umami and the science of fermentation.

When You Can’t Be a Chef Anymore 1:30 – 2:30 p.m.

This session, presented by ACF Chef Costa Magoulas, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, dean, Mori Hosseini College of Hospitality and Culinary Management, will address expected and unexpected challenges (injury, disability, retirement) that impact a chef’s

ability to work in the kitchen. The session will also offer practical advice and expert insight to equip culinary professionals with the tools and knowledge needed to navigate career transitions.

Beyond the Burger: The Next Generation of Alternative Protein Innovation

2:45 – 3:45 p.m.

Join The Good Food Institute’s (GFI) Marika Azoff and a panel of plant-based chefs to discuss how alternative proteins can support your business and help feed our growing population — deliciously, nutritiously and sustainably.

Exploring Cannabis Terpenes for Culinary Use

2:45 – 3:45 p.m.

ACF Chef Nathan Koscielski, CEC, chef instructor, Niagara Falls Culinary Institute, will discuss how to use cannabis terpenes in the kitchen and how to match the “flavor profile” of cannabis strains (like wines) with food and beverage. He’ll also address incorporating a specific strain into a recipe for taste and nutritional benefits.

Closing Session: Food for Thought From the White House Doctor 4 – 5 p.m.

Join former White House physician Dr. Connie Mariano as she takes you on a transformative journey from her humble beginnings as the daughter of a U.S. Navy chief mess specialist to becoming the Navy’s first admiral of Filipino descent. Drawing from her 24 years of active duty and her work as an internal medicine physician, she’ll impart invaluable lessons learned that have shaped her approach to medicine and business.

President’s Gala Reception

6:30 – 7:30 p.m.

President’s Gala Dinner and Award Presentations

7:30 – 10 p.m.

Before You Go

Scan the code to download the ACF Chefs Mobile App. You can use your app to see the full conference agenda and choose your sessions, share your virtual business card and receive alerts during convention. Before and after convention, you can use the app to catch the latest ACF news, read NCR, connect with others and vote in elections. It’s a must-have!

2024 ACF Trends

Introducing our May and June trends, part of ACF’s first-ever Trends Report launched this year.

By Amelia Levin

MAY MODERN

BARBECUE AND GLOBAL SMOKE

Barbecue never fails to delight. Regional American varieties continue to kick it with consumers, with Texasstyle barbecue leading the pack (35% of consumers say they love it), according to third-party research firm Datassential. Memphis-style barbecue has grown in popularity, however, with 20% of consumers saying they love it, only slightly surpassing the 19% that say they favor Korean barbecue.

That’s just it — barbecue (and the sauces that go with it) not only appeals to American-based tastes and traditions; smoked meats (and veggies!) offer the perfect vehicle for bold and global flavors as well. Recent Datassential research also shows that white barbecue sauces (akin

to Carolina gold) are having a moment, with a 25% growth on U.S. menus last year and 54% growth in the last four years. Close behind are hot honey and Korean gochujang (gochugaruinfused sauces), with 5.2% and 2.7% menu growth respectively, according to Datassential’s MenuTrends report from the third quarter of 2023. We’re also seeing a rise in Jamaican jerk, Chinese char siu and even the use of Indian and Thai seasonings and ingredients in barbecued and smoked dishes. Chefs are also reaching beyond pork and beef to include lamb and other proteins in the barbecue mix. Turn to the Main Course article for more insights in trending barbecue styles and flavors.

Memphis-style pulled pork (left) and steak tacos with Korean barbecue sauce (right) at the fast-casual California Tortilla

JUNE FOOD TRUCK MADNESS

JUNE FOOD TRUCK

Food trucks have for some time now offered lower barriers to entry in the restaurant industry — with little to no real estate required, less labor and lower overhead costs. During the pandemic, food trucks were not just popular because of their outdoor service; they led the pack in terms of sales because they already had to-go operations covered.

Now, food trucks have become an integral part of many foodservice operations — offering a catering arm for restaurants and brands looking to expand marketing efforts and event sales. Food trucks are also popular with larger institutions like universities and health care facilities with large campuses looking to bring food physically closer to their customers. Research further demonstrates food trucks’ prevalence; the majority of consumers (74%) surveyed by Datassential last year said they’ve visited a food truck at least once and just over half (55%) would like to see more of them in their cities.

Best of all, food trucks offer chefs and food makers a highly creative outlet to test a menu or concept before expanding. Many truck owners have proved they can deliver just as high-quality, craveable food as brick-and-mortar competitors. Turn to our Management article to read more about how some food trucks operate and what they’re serving.

The Coastal Burgers food truck operated by University of San Diego in California (top left) and Vucca Street Food truck in Jacksonville, Fla. (bottom right).

THE ENDURING APPEAL OF FOOD TRUCKS

These restaurants on wheels offer remarkable opportunities for low-barrier entry and

culinary innovation

//

By Jeffrey Spear

For the last couple of decades, food trucks have been finding their way into the culinary limelight. No longer “roach coaches” catering to an indifferent audience, they are bringing exciting new culinary experiences to the streets that are on par with brick-and-mortar restaurants. The trucks are operated by exceptionally well-trained chefs, serving up pizzas, burgers and nostalgic favorites as well as flavor-forward ethnic foods and creatively inspired mashups. While the appeal is unmistakable, maintaining the trucks’ popularity and keeping them operational takes a tremendous amount of planning, time and resources.

A ROMANTIC NOTION

For chefs dreaming of opening their own restaurant, food trucks have been romanticized as a wonderful start-up opportunity, allowing the chefs to explore their ideas of culinary creativity with a significantly lower cost of entry than a

brick-and-mortar operation. In addition, chefs can manage their own time, experience greater mobility and enjoy more frequent contact with their patrons.

While these pleasures are considerable, there are several operational essentials such as licensing and seemingly endless inspections that can prove expensive, time-consuming and cumbersome. In addition, day-today responsibilities such as inventory, staffing, accounting, cleaning and daily truck maintenance can be daunting. For startups, these are issues that can take months to sort out.

According to Chef Damian Del Pizzo, owner of Vucca Street Food , a food truck serving Italian and ItalianAmerican cuisine in Jacksonville, Fla., “Cooking is just a small part of what I have to do to keep everything operational. I’m the one that manages our bookings, handles the finances and makes sure everything is ready before we hit the road.” When asked about maintenance, he continues, “I’m a clean freak. I want our customers to see a spotless cooking setup when they look through the serving window. Plus, when the generator goes out, there’s a flat tire or the health inspectors show up, it all falls on me. The best part, however, is when 5 o’clock rolls around and I can start cooking.”

When that time strikes, Chef Del Pizzo blends Italian and ItalianAmerican that reflect the foods he

Vucca Street Food (Jacksonville, Fla.) operated by Chef Damian Del Pizzo (top); Beets and burrata salad, a favorite from Vucca Street Food (bottom).

enjoyed in his hometown of Philadelphia. The “Oregon Avenue” hoagie (fried chicken cutlet, sharp American, prosciutto, long hot pepper, mayo, onion) is a customer favorite, as is the spicy rigatoni (alla vodka, fresh tomato, Calabrian chili, basil). “A lot of our customers are transplants from up north. They understand and appreciate what we’re offering,” he says.

SPREADING THE WORD

Food trucks continue to reign in popularity across parts of the country, with many becoming highly sought after as evidenced by enduring long lines. Achieving this level of recognition and patronage, however, takes time. For Trent Jurgensen, owner of The Frying Dutchman, a fish and chips truck operating in Tacoma, Wash., “We were losing money at first. We didn’t have anything set aside for marketing so our primary contact with the community was through social media. Over time, we managed to set up some roadside signs and used Facebook ads to boost awareness.”

When it came to increasing exposure, Jurgensen continues, “We participated in local picnics, special events and farmers markets and handed out samples to help overcome resistance. We finally knew we had a good thing when people told us they didn’t like fish and chips, but they liked ours. We started getting positive press, too. Being named the best fish and chip food truck in

Pierce County was a real boost. That’s certainly helped us stay in business.”

With prior experience managing a seafood restaurant, Jurgensen knows how important food integrity is to a successful operation and what it takes to maintain quality. That’s why he uses wild-caught Alaska cod and fresh, locally sourced produce. When it comes to cooking, Jurgensen says, “Anticipating the speed of the fryers and expediting the foods while maintaining quality is a valuable skill set. That’s why our fish and chips, shrimp basket, fish tacos and everything else on our menu is always made to order, consistently good and our patrons are so loyal.”

MORE THAN A CURBSIDE BUSINESS

Food trucks can be more than just a roadside attraction. Many owners, restaurants and foodservice companies design and maintain food trucks as mobile kitchens, used regularly to cater weddings and private parties, generating important income that supplements curbside earnings. In addition, catering gives chefs a broader opportunity to flex their culinary muscles and develop custom menus that are a bit more creative than their daily fare.

Alton Ankersen and Cory Burke, coowners of the highly popular Roti Rolls in Charleston, S.C., serve an innovative

Crowds line up for award-winning fish and chips from The Frying Dutchman in Tacoma, Wash. (left); Fish and chips from The Frying Dutchman, voted best of Pierce County (right).

melding of Asian cuisines with a menu that goes beyond rotis to feature Buddha bowls (cilantro jerk rice bowls) with smoked hog, jerk chicken or curry vegetables. “We like spice, are heavily influenced by Indian, Vietnamese and Korean cuisines and enjoy bringing something unique to the table,” Ankersen says. “Our patrons appreciate the variety. They’re not always sure about what we’re serving, but they’re happy to experiment.”

Operationally speaking, Ankersen and Burke found it worthwhile to operate two trucks, one looking after their primary market in Charleston, while the other is designed specifically to accommodate more extensive menus presented at the many special events they attend. At music festivals such as Bonnaroo, which attracts sizable crowds, the co-owners use their truck plus multiple tents to ensure efficient service. When asked how they find sufficient staff,

Ankersen says, “Staffing can be trying at times. We have two full-time employees plus a great team of 30 to 40 previously trained part-timers who enjoy working with us, especially at the music festivals.”

FOOD TRUCKS GET SCHOOLED

Many people don’t realize that while there’s significant demand and interest in food trucks in communities throughout the country, there’s just as much enthusiasm among students on college and university campuses. As such, food trucks have become a portable extension of dining services, catering to the demand for convenient meals and snacks at sporting events and later into the evening and on weekends at locations closer to the dormitories when dining halls are closed.

At the University of San Diego, the school’s food truck has been in operation since 2013. Over the years, the purpose of the truck has had to adjust, responding to changing culinary trends, student preferences and campus dynamics. Originally called Torero Tu Go, the food truck once served dishes such as nopales tacos that reflected the foodways of the indigenous Kumeyaay tribe. Needing an external kitchen to assist with dinner service and cater to events around campus, the food truck has been rebranded as Coastal Burgers and reconfigured to accommodate a simple, easy-to-manage burger menu consisting of hamburgers, cheeseburgers, a grilled cheese sandwich for vegetarians and a “Mean Bean” sandwich (made with a black bean patty) for vegans, available with fries if desired.

“We use the truck as we need it,” says USD dining services director Charles Ramos. “We’ve found that every academic year provides an opportunity to introduce a new program,

A happy crew at Roti Rolls (Charleston, S.C.) (top); A Roti Rolls special: jerk chicken with candy bacon and blue cheese crumbles (above); Operating the Coastal Burgers food truck adjacent to the USD dining hall alleviates pressure during peak service hours (right).

improve service and reduce wait times. Plus, it’s a whole lot easier to modify the truck than remodel an entire service unit.”

While the truck still appears at sporting events and special events around campus, it is being used to reduce bottlenecks during dinner service. For this year, it has been reconfigured, serves a limited burger menu and operates alongside the dining hall’s patio. Ramos adds, “Students like the experience of getting food from a truck, especially burgers. It’s fun, adds a splash of color, brings vitality to the outdoor space and eliminates congestion in other serving areas.”

Food trucks continue to intrigue, impress and delight diners looking for new mealtime experiences in a casual and entertaining setting. Whether the operator is an up-and-coming culinary star looking for a low-cost way to start a business, a chef seeking greater flexibility and control, or an educational institution looking to effectively cater to its student population, as long as the challenges are fully understood in

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appeal.

equal measure to the joys of cooking, these mobile kitchens will enjoy enduring

The Coastal Burgers food truck adds color and excitement to the University of San Diego campus.

RAMEN’S RISE AND THE CASE FOR BUILDING FLAVOR WITH INTENTION

By Chef Aaron Andrews

Ten years ago, most people thought of ramen as an affordable instant snack purchased from their local grocery store. Today, ramen is considered a gourmet menu item for chefs all over the world.

For me and my team at Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America, Inc. (AHN), ramen serves as a perfect case study for how using umami and kokumi to build flavor with intention can transform the simple into gourmet for any cuisine.

For some quick background, umami is our fifth basic taste, and it is often described as meaty, savory deliciousness. Kokumi, a concept garnering more attention in recent years, imparts a sense of richness, body and complexity that some compare to the way wines age and improve over time.

Call it coincidence, synergy or that undefinable magic that brings innovative ideas together, but it’s interesting to note that the rich Japanese histories of umami and ramen have a lot in common. Umami was discovered in Japan in 1907, when Dr. Kikunae Ikeda sipped from a bowl of seaweed broth, or kombu dashi, and noticed the savory flavor was distinct from our four other basic tastes. He named it “umami,” which translates from Japanese to “essence of deliciousness.” Ikeda would go on to co-found the Ajinomoto

Group in 1909 to develop monosodium glutamate (MSG), the purest form of umami. Then, in 1910, the first dedicated ramen shop opened in Tokyo. The shop served its signature shoyu ramen, a style we recognize today for being rich in umami.

While the soup is named after the stalwart wheat flour noodle, the star of a bowl of ramen is the broth. Every chef creating a ramen dish starts with a blank slate — meat bones — with the potential for numerous and complex broth flavors to bring ramen to new heights.

In 2024, our team at AHN is focused on the potential of enhancing the levels of umami and kokumi in ramen by intentionally layering and blending ingredients that elevate these characteristics. There are some foundational ingredients that I now consider essential as I build a broth, such as kombu and bonito concentrates and dried bonito. For that next layer, I would consider additional ingredients such as soy sauces, non-soy tamaris, miso powders and sesame oils that add even greater texture and complexity.

From there, we are only limited by our imaginations as to what toppings we can add to incorporate greater umami and kokumi and build unique flavor profiles. In my hometown of Chicago, we have seen ramen featuring everything from fried chicken to mussels and birria as the trend continues its surge in popularity.

Great food requires attention to detail at every step. Ramen shows us that any food can be elevated beyond the basics with intentional flavor. By harnessing the potential of umami and kokumi, our team at AHN is able to deliver delicious, intentional solutions to elevate flavor, texture and nutrition.

Chef Aaron Andrews is associate corporate chef at Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America and has more than 20 years’ experience in the foodservice and restaurant industries.

How American is barbecue?

America’s first president, George Washington, was a fan, attending six “barbicues” between 1769 and 1774, according to his diaries. Thomas Jefferson preferred a peppery vinegarbased sauce on his barbecue. And in 2011, a barbecue pit was discovered during an excavation at Montpelier, home of fourth president James Madison.

But barbecue has come a long way since the founding fathers enjoyed their favorite smoked meats. Today, barbecue is a centerpiece of American culinary culture, with various regions defining themselves by their particular style of barbecue (and causing plenty of arguments along the way). There are numerous books and television shows dedicated to barbecue, more than 15,000 barbecue restaurants in the U.S.

(according to research firm IBIS) and an entire industry that supports passionate backyard barbecue aficionados. Last year one such company — Brisk It — launched its first annual Grilling Sentiment Survey and found that a whopping 75% of consumers would eat barbecue every single week if they could.

All of that passion has driven a modern barbecue renaissance, creating opportunities for new, innovative barbecue flavors, concepts and styles that happily sit alongside the classics.

HIGH ON THE HOG

When you think barbecue, you probably don’t think “fancy” or “fine dining.” Good barbecue is a casual comfort food, best enjoyed at a picnic table with plenty of paper towels, right? But that image of barbecue has long been

at odds with the amount of time and culinary skill involved in crafting a truly great piece of barbecue, with just the right amount of smokiness, a tender chew that releases rich rendered fat, and an exterior bark topped with signature rubs and sauces that reflect the cook or chef’s tastes and preferences.

As American consumers have gotten more savvy about barbecue, growing up in an era of famous barbecue chefs and watching expert pitmasters at work on television cooking competitions, people have slowly started to embrace barbecue as a more upscale option. When Menu Matters (a strategic and menu consulting firm for the foodservice industry) asked consumers which premium or fancy foods they have always wanted to try, numerous respondents mentioned barbecue, with some calling out Korean barbecue, a few mentioning ribs (one person said they’ve always wanted to try Cheesecake Factory’s ribs), and one respondent saying they specifically wanted to go to Austin, Texas, the center of the modern

pitcraft renaissance exemplified by pitmasters like Aaron Franklin

Indeed, high-end barbecue is just the type of familiar-yet-gourmet treat that modern consumers love to see from operators, often preferring to put their trust in a chef who has the skills and talents to make good barbecue — why risk the time and money on making a barbecue brisket at home? Now there are numerous upscale barbecue concepts across the country serving up ribs, briskets and sausages with serious culinary credibility. At Douglas Bar and Grill, a modern barbecue concept in Dallas from Texas barbecue expert Doug Pickering , the team only uses premium meats. The pork ribs are made with St. Louis-style style Duroc pork, the sausage is made from Akaushi beef, and there is Texas wagyu all over the menu, including in the smash burgers, bacon-wrapped jalapeno brisket poppers and 18-hour brisket wagyu smoked over post oak and hickory. Across the country these higher-end options have earned their place on the menu, inspiring chefs to play

From left: Kurvball Barbecue Whiskey pairs with smoked meats; An outside shot of Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint in downtown Nashville and the restaurant’s dry-rubbed spare ribs (credit: Andy Thomas Lee).

with a wider range of gourmet proteins, install expensive smoking equipment and hearths and feature more premium ingredients in rubs and sauces (hello, truffle barbecue sauce).

GOING GLOBAL

If there is one trend that defines the evolution in modern American barbecue, it’s the growth in global flavors across the category. Asian and Latin flavors and dishes are simply what many consumers eat today, so it’s no surprise that those influences have made their way into barbecue. It helps that countries across Asia and Latin America also have their own barbecue or barbecue-adjacent culinary techniques and dishes, offering up plenty of authentic inspiration for modern chefs.

In San Antonio, Curry Boys BBQ has been earning a name for itself by combining Southeast Asian flavors with classic Texas barbecue traditions. That means options like oak-smoked prime brisket served with green curry, or smoked pulled pork with bold panang curry. For the changing Saturday rib

special, a full slab of St. Louis-style ribs with a sweet and savory Vietnamese caramel sauce might be served one week, while char siu-style Chinese barbecue pork spare ribs could make an appearance the next. The flavor exploration earned Curry Boys BBQ a James Beard Award nomination this

San Antonio-based Curry Boys BBQ owners Andrew Ho, Sean Wen and Andrew Samia (top); Curry Boys BBQ’s oak-smoked prime brisket and pulled pork with curry (bottom).

year, and the restaurant ranked fourth on Yelp’s list of the “Top 100 Places to Eat in Texas” last year.

In Louisville, Noche Mexican BBQ serves classic Texas barbecue favorites with an “authentic Mexican twist” in a converted church in the city’s Highlands neighborhood. Dishes include smoked wings with a choice of a spicy mole or mango habanero barbecue sauce, barbacoa lamb shank with plantains and pickled jalapenos (it’s thought that the word “barbecue” comes from the Taino word “barbacoa”), and low-and-slow smoked beef brisket served with green cabbage, pico de gallo, Oaxacan mole and berry coulis.

Mike Kostyo is a freelance writer and food trends expert based in Chicago. Kostyo was a recurring guest on Fusion TV’s “The AV Club Show”; has been featured on NBC Nightly News, WGN Radio, CBS Radio and Gimlet Media’s “Why We Eat What We Eat” podcast; is regularly featured in newspapers and magazines; speaks at numerous conferences across the country annually; and was a judge on Food Network’s “Eating America.” He has a master’s degree in gastronomy from Boston University, plus certificates in the culinary arts, baking arts, wine and artisan cheese production.

New ‘Q: Taking Barbecue Classics to the Next Level

Looking to experiment with new barbecue flavors and concepts? Consider these next-level takes on classic barbecue:

Carolina Gold Barbecue Sauce: One of South Carolina’s many contributions to the barbecue canon, this tangy, mustard-based sauce is quickly becoming an on-trend, must-have option across the U.S. At Lewis Barbecue, with two locations in South Carolina, the signature riff on Carolina Gold Sauce features Hatch green chiles combined with classic ingredients like yellow mustard and vinegar.

Unique Woods: While oak, hickory and mesquite are classic woods used for smoking briskets and other types of barbecue, chefs are experimenting

with a wider range of woods today. At the aptly named Almond Wood in Patterson, Calif., everything from tri-tip (a California favorite) to wild king salmon to whole chickens are smoked over a combination of apricot, cherry and almond wood (there’s plenty of the latter in the state).

Beyond Meat: As consumers continue to experiment with flexitarian eating and seek to add more plant-based options to their diets, it’s no surprise that multiple vegan and vegetarian barbecue concepts have opened across the country. New York City’s Pure Grit BBQ calls itself the city’s first fast casual vegan barbecue joint, using traditional barbecue techniques on meat replacements like pulled jackfruit, Impossible beef and Daring chicken.

Many consumers prefer ribs when it comes to barbecue favorites, according to Menu Matters, a strategic menu and consulting firm for the foodservice industry.

STEPPED UP SEAFOOD

How to dry-age tuna steaks like wagyu // By Christine Blank

As one of the pioneers of dryaging tuna and swordfish steaks, Executive Chef Michael Nelson of New Orleans seafood eatery GW Fins has had to develop novel HACCP and food safety plans along with technical know-how.

The dry-aging process — which typically takes nine to 11 days — elevates seafood to the flavor and quality of aged Kobe or wagyu beef, according to Chef Nelson. He began dry-aging fish around three years ago and is one of a handful of chefs across the country implementing similar techniques.

“I figured it out on my own,” he says. “There was zero information when I started on how to do it, and I wasn’t sure it was going to work. During COVID-19, we did the majority of experimenting. We were able to try a lot of different types of fish and different ways of butchering it.”

Chef Nelson decided to focus on tuna and swordfish steaks, sourced from fishermen locally in the Gulf of Mexico. Chefs break down the whole fish into “primal cuts,” leaving the bone intact.

The cuts are then placed into the dry-aging chamber for 12 to 28 days to mature. “To dry-age properly these cuts cannot have the meat exposed to the air as they will dry out too quickly,” Chef Nelson explains. “To do long-term dry-aging, you need a dry-aging chamber with precisely controlled temperature and humidity. The idea of eliminating moisture and encouraging airflow can

dramatically improve the shelf life and flavor of fish.”

The cabinets, set at near-freezing levels, were retrofitted with UV light filtration to create a sterile environment along with monitors that track the humidity levels and air flow to very “exacting standards,” Chef Nelson says. “The monitors take readings every two to five minutes, and I get an alert on my phone if the humidity goes above a certain level.”

Chef Nelson also developed his own HACCP plan and submitted it to the Louisiana state health department because the agency has not developed its own safety regulations for dry-aging fish. “I’m their trial guy — no one else I know

[locally] is doing it,” says Chef Nelson, noting that the restaurant and dry-aging cabinets are subject to routine health department inspections.

“It is a new area for health departments to regulate; the mandates are going to vary state to state,” he adds.

When the fish is fully mature, chefs cut the primal cuts into bone-in steaks, chops and even tomahawk ribeyes. They have proven to be so popular that the restaurant cannot keep up with the demand — even though the dry-aged fish steaks are twice the price of most other dishes on the menu.

In addition to dry-aging fish, Chef Nelson focuses on using all parts to reduce waste while increasing menu offerings. For example, he and the restaurant’s culinary team use the scales from fish skin to make a gelatin for desserts and even homemade marshmallows.

One of GW Fin’s most popular dishes is the fin wings app, made from the fins and chin meat of snapper, drum, redfish and others. “The fin wing uses the two

fins under the belly of the fish that we remove with the meat from under the chin of the fish with a couple strokes of a knife,” Chef Nelson says.

“They are fun to eat because you pick it up by the fin and eat them just like a chicken wing,” Chef Nelson adds.

In addition, fish scraps are used for the eatery’s sea-cuterie plate, which substitutes seafood for pork sausage and high cholesterol fats for omega-3 fatty acids.

“Exposing [guests] to some of the underutilized parts of fish and delighting them with new cuts, techniques and dishes brings me joy.”

"EXPOSING [GUESTS] TO SOME OF THE UNDERUTILIZED PARTS OF FISH AND DELIGHTING THEM WITH NEW CUTS, TECHNIQUES AND DISHES BRINGS ME JOY."

- CHEF MICHAEL NELSON

Executive Chef Michael Nelson of New Orleans seafood eatery GW Fins (left) with his dry-aged swordfish chops plated (right) and straight from the dry-aging cabinet (opposite).

Classical

ACF Pastry Chef William Racin, CEPC , a baking and pastry instructor at Westmoreland County Community College in Pennsylvania, partnered with Hope Britz , who is due to graduate from the college’s ACF-accredited apprenticeship program this spring, to present two renditions of the French dessert gâteau St.-Honoré . “It is a very classical dessert and employs a lot of solid pastry techniques in a larger, eight-inch format,” Chef Racin says. Named for the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs with origins dating back to the 1800s, the dessert starts with a circular pâte sablée base topped with pâte à choux balls dipped in caramel alongside vanilla diplomat cream (pastry cream lightened with whipped cream using a special St. Honoré piping tip). A little spun sugar and raspberry coulis round out this presentation.

Modern

For a modern presentation of the classic gâteau St.-Honoré , Chef Racin and Britz chose a deconstructed plating featuring a crescent-shaped pâte sablée (made using a round cutter) and topped with diplomat cream, caramel-glazed pâte à choux and a quenelle of vanilla bean ice cream. For this plate, the duo spun the sugar into a more refined shape, balanced by decorative, tuile-like pieces of green-tinted white chocolate for a little color, flavor and texture balance.

For recipes, visit acfchefs.org/recipes .

CLASSICAL

CLASSICAL MODERN vs.

BEHIND THE FRONT LINES

INSIDE DISCUSSIONS WITH CULINARY MAVERICKS

IN AMERICA’S MILITARY // BY AMELIA LEVIN

The ACF has enjoyed a decades-long partnership with the U.S. military dating back to the 1970s.

“The late Lt. General John D. McLaughlin did so much for military chefs; he paved the way with the help of the ACF to bring culinary arts to the forefront and make ours a profession of true talent rather than one of servants,” says ACF National President Chef René Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC , a retired 21-year U.S. Army veteran, former enlisted aide for three- and fourstar generals and decorated military chef competitor who served through 15 deployments in 57 countries. “Even today the schoolhouse at Fort Gregg-Adams is called the McLaughlin Building.”

Chef Marquis adds that the military’s partnership with the ACF brings credibility to armed forces foodservice and serves as the backbone for culinary instruction and certification of members of the armed forces.

Each branch maintains its own methods for training cooks and culinarians depending on the nature of the service. But, once a year in the spring, the branches come together to compete against each other in the Joint Culinary Training Exercise, the largest military competition in the country held at Fort Gregg-Adams in Virginia (see Sidebar). Leaders from that competition are often chosen to be part of the U.S. Army

Culinary Arts Team (USACAT) that competes in the IKA/Culinary Olympics every four years.

“The enthusiasm and dedication of military culinarians is inspiring,” says retired Army Maj. Gen. Jeffrey Phillips , chair of the ACF Military Task Force created last year and a 36-year veteran of the U.S. Army currently serving as president of the nonprofit Reserve Organization of America. “Providing quality food to our troops directly contributes to military readiness, and one of my prime interests is enhancing an understanding of that value among senior military leaders.” Phillips says his main goal as the ACF Military Task Force chair is to continue to get the word out about ACF certifications among members of the military and also facilitate ACF civilian and military member visits to bases and installations to help train and teach future culinarians.

We caught up with some of those ACF military chefs to hear their stories about life on the front lines — and in the kitchen.

THE LIFE OF A GREEN BERET CHEF

ACF Chef Guy Winks, CEC , also serves on the ACF Military Task Force; he is a retired military chef of 25 years. As a chef for the U.S. Special Forces (Green Berets), he has jumped out of airplanes, climbed mountains and scuba dived in sub-zero waters. As a former U.S. Army enlisted aide, he has also cooked fine dining meals for high-ranking generals in the U.S. Army. Most recently, Chef Winks, a longtime competitor whose team won the 2008 Installation of the Year at the JCTE, has served as a culinary instructor at the Joint Culinary Center of Excellence at Fort Gregg-Adams.

CEC

“Food is morale in military,” he says. “I’ve been in hostile areas where there are just 12 guys on a team and me, the cook, and a supply person and maybe a couple other support people, but that’s it. When you’ve been out crawling in the mud or trudging through the woods or dodging landmines or completing extreme cold weather missions, you see how much great food can change the whole atmosphere. When you go out of your way to cook a vegetarian meal for someone you know doesn’t eat meat or make someone’s omelet just like they like it in the morning and always have hot coffee running 24 hours a day, you know you’re doing your part as a chef in the armed forces.”

Chef Winks first got wind of the culinary world after going through initial occupational training at Fort Gregg-Adams (then Fort Lee). “I was

“ PROVIDING QUALITY FOOD TO OUR TROOPS DIRECTLY CONTRIBUTES TO MILITARY READINESS , AND ONE OF MY PRIME INTERESTS IS ENHANCING AN UNDERSTANDING OF THAT VALUE AMONG SENIOR MILITARY LEADERS. ”

- Retired Army Maj. Gen. Jeffrey Phillips, CC

a young private who got put on detail washing dishes for the Culinary Olympic team,” he says. “I was immediately hooked and wanted to be a part of that.”

Considering himself “lucky to be in the right place at the right time,” Chef Winks was stationed at Fort Carson in 1995 and observed airborne military cooks for the Green Berets. “I went to their compound and asked how to be a cook,” he says. “The dining facility manager for the special forces said if I can decorate a cake for the grand opening of their compound I could gain acceptance into the unit. I went back to the artillery unit where I was stationed and asked the head chef to teach me how to do that. I managed to pull off the assignment and ended up in special forces for the next 14 years.”

During his career, Chef Winks also had the opportunity to go to the Culinary Institute of America as a military liaison for a year and earn ProChef Level II certification. In the 2010s, Chef Winks was as a member of the esteemed USACAT team and competed internationally at the Culinary Olympics in Germany and Expogast in Luxemburg, later becoming an advisor for the team. He was a coach for the team this year, and for the last 12 years, he has served as master of ceremony for the Joint Training Culinary Exercise at Fort Gregg-Adams.

“Winning gold medals is great, but what it all boils down to is better food for service members,” says Chef Winks. “We take kids from all branches of the military and train them to do advanced level cooking and represent the U.S. They get to go back to their bases and train others.”

THE LIFE OF AN ENLISTED AIDE

Master Sgt. David A. Marcelli, CCE, CEC, PCC, AAC , has been cooking since he was 14 and worked as a country club chef in his early 20s before joining the U.S. Army more than two decades ago and working up the ranks as an enlisted aide like Chef Winks.

“Stressful, demanding, challenging, satisfying, rewarding.” Those are the words Chef Marcelli uses to describe what it’s like to be a military chef. He’s been on four deployments (three to Iraq and one in Afghanistan) and has had to manage high-volume kitchens both on a base and in the field.

“Most of our military kitchens are set up to feed hundreds to thousands of service members; whereas a small restaurant kitchen may have one large steam jacket kettle to cook maybe 10 gallons of soup, a lot of our kitchens are set up with 100- to 200-gallon pots, several

ACF Chef Guy Winks,

tilt skillets and several industrial ovens all blazing away for most of the day to keep up with the demands,” he says.

As an enlisted aide stationed in Honolulu, Hawaii, “We entertain foreign dignitaries, senators and foreign senior military liaisons from all over the world,” Chef Marcelli says. “One of the coolest things I’ve gotten to do most recently was work with the Japanese consulate here to build foreign relations — their military team recently came here to help us with one of our functions.”

Outside of his regular duties Chef Marcelli has taught culinary arts classes at Fort Gregg-Adams and participated in several culinary competitions while serving in the military. “I was a support member of the 2012 United States Army Culinary Arts Team (USACAT), which competed in the 2012 Olympics in Erfurt, Germany, and I have competed personally in the Fort Gregg-Adams Joint Culinary Training Exercise, winning ACF gold in nutrition and several other individual and team medals.

A founding member of the newly created ACF Military Task Force, Chef Marcelli hopes to “dispel myths about the ACF among new military cooks that it’s not some secret club that you can only be a part of if you are a senior rank,” he says. “The ACF has done so much for the military and military chefs that I think it’s important to share best practices and continue to help each other.”

FEEDING THE NAVY

Senior Chief Petty Officer Michael Edwards, CEC , joined the U.S. Navy shortly after 9/11 at the age of 30 after owning a catering company in California for several years.

He started his naval career feeding crews on aircraft carriers, providing four meals per day, 24 hours a day, for up to 5,000 people. That’s when he transitioned to a captain’s cook, which is similar to an enlisted aide position but on board a carrier. At one point, Chef Edwards served as secretary of the Navy mess at the Pentagon. He has taught advanced culinary arts at Fort Gregg-Adams.

Chef Edwards, who says he’s currently serving the highest ranking admiral in the Navy, also acts like an “estate manager,” coordinating any work that has to be done in the house in addition to serving as a private chefin-charge. “I’ve done events up to 3,000 people and as small an evening as two people sitting at a table. I’ve cooked everything from simple casseroles to 12-course fine dining meals.”

Lately, as a member of the ACF Military Task Force,

Above: ACF Chef and Master Sgt. David A. Marcelli is an enlisted aide for fourstar generals in the U.S. Army; Below: Chef Marcelli with his culinary team in Honolulu where he is stationed.

Chef Edwards has been working to try to bring back the Adopt-a-Ship program, a partnership between the ACF and U.S. Navy that brings civilian chefs aboard ships to train and work with naval cooks.

“I think that is where the ACF really can help,” he says. “Making everyone feel like they’re professionals in their trade and helping [military chefs] like me feel like we can cook head-to-head with other chefs in the industry.”

“We’re one of the only performance-based advancement [culinary programs] in the military,” he says. “Our training is based off of ratings, so each person who comes in and wants to be a cook has to go through a 13-week culinary program and a number of practical factors to demonstrate their understanding of the culinary arts.”

This is required in order to earn the rank and rating of a culinary specialist third class (E4). The culinary program is so rigorous that just last year, the Coast Guard launched an ACF-approved apprenticeship program and earlier this year had its first graduating class. “We graduated 14 culinary specialist third classes, but also members from the Filipino Navy, who received their [Certified] Fundamentals Cook certification,” says Chef Fuchs.

Essentially, Coast Guard enlistees — after completing eight weeks of boot camp — have a choice to go directly into culinary or they can choose to pursue a different rating, Chef Fuchs says. Any degrees from an ACF-

THE COAST GUARD’S CULINARY PROGRAM

The U.S. Coast Guard’s culinary program made history in 2022 when two of its culinary specialists (Danielle Hughes and Troy Shaw) took home not only the esteemed ACF Chef of the Year Award but also the ACF Pastry Chef of the Year Award in the same year, beating out all other members of the military as well as civilian competitors.

ACF Chef Edward Fuchs, CEC, CCE , an E8 U.S. Coast Guard chief culinary specialist, wasn’t surprised.

accredited culinary program that an enlistee already has completed could count as an equivalent to a Coast Guard training program and even have that enlistee signing on as a culinary specialist second class (E5).

Located in the Two Rock Valley of Petaluma, Calif., the Coast Guard Training Center operates seven schools with courses for health service technicians, electronics technicians, information systems technicians and culinary specialists. Culinary specialists with the Coast Guard prepare meals with the highest standards of nutrition, taste and food safety and also are responsible for logistics, accounting, menu planning and inventory management. Culinary specialists may work ashore at stations, at VIP facilities, or they might be assigned to galleys on cutters.

ACF Chef Michael Edwards, U.S. Navy (above and previous page)

Left: ACF Chefs and U.S. Coast Guard Culinary Specialists Danielle Hughes (5th from left) and Troy Shaw won the 2022 ACF Chef of the Year and Pastry Chef of the Year (respectively) top awards; Right: ACF Chef and Chief Culinary Specialist Ed Fuches, CEC, CCE.

“We teach the same curriculum that you would get at any culinary school, but we have to do it in a more condensed timeframe because we have to get people out to the fleet, so our program takes place over the course of 13 weeks,” Chef Fuchs says. Culinary specialists can continue their education on the job as a line cook (or duty cook) while also learning “firefighting, navigation, line handling, rigging and all those other skills necessary to be successful on a cutter. If you’re an honor grad for a graduating class, you’re going to get your No. 1 pick, and then so on down the line depending on how well you perform in your school. With our advancement being performance driven, you can advance to the next pay grade through continued study and performance on the job.”

HOW AIRMEN FEED THE U.S. AIR FORCE

ACF Chef Jazmen Davis, CWPC , technical sergeant, oversees culinary instruction for the U.S. Air Force at Fort Gregg-Adams in Virginia and enjoys teaching new recruits the fundamentals of cooking.

“I enjoy getting people excited about food because I think when people join the military, especially the Air Force, they think they’re going to jump out of planes and do things like that, so many of them are shocked when they get assigned the job of cooking,” says Chef Davis, explaining that this military branch is different from others in that airmen are assigned jobs — they don’t choose them — and they rotate frequently.

At Fort Gregg-Adams there are two main kitchens, including a demo lab for basic culinary instruction that

lasts about a week.

“Then we take the training wheels off and have everyone take a menu and feed about 60 people at a time and then switch them to a bigger kitchen,” says Chef Davis, noting that her team teaches about 900 airmen per year and can have between 60 and 80 students in a class.

“By the time they leave their duty station, they will know how to do batch cooking and mass cooking, and they will also spend time in our field kitchens.” Within six months students might have their first deployment, so they’re trained not just on cooking but also on airplane mechanics and other duties.

The Air Force does send airmen to compete at the Joint Culinary Training Exercise at Fort Gregg-Adams, says Chef Davis, but she’s always looking for more participation. “I feel like there is a lot of hidden talent in our kitchens so

“ I FEEL LIKE THERE IS A LOT OF HIDDEN TALENT IN OUR KITCHENS SO WE’RE TRYING TO IDENTIFY THOSE [AIRMEN] AND GIVE THEM OPPORTUNITIES TO COMPETE. THERE ARE ALSO OPPORTUNITIES FOR AIRMEN

TO WORK IN THE FIELD. ”

- ACF Chef Jazmen Davis, CWPC, technical sergeant, U.S. Air Force

Above: U.S. Coast Guard culinarians are trained to cook on and off shores; Below: ACF Chef Jazmen Davis, CWPC, U.S. Air Force

we’re trying to identify those [airmen] and give them opportunities to compete. There are also opportunities for airmen to work in the field.”

“For my first duty station I was stationed in Las Vegas and we had a partnership with the casinos so I was able to work as an intern at the bakery at Caesar’s Palace,” she says. “By the end of the internship I was baking cakes for celebrities like Mike Tyson, Wayne Brady and Celine Dion. Those experiences and certifications are definitely a stepping stone for transitioning to civilian life after serving in the military so we’ve been working hard getting the word out about the ACF and the certifications offered.”

Left: spectators watch military chefs compete at the Joint Culinary Training Exercise held in March at Fort Gregg-Adams in Virginia; Right: a chef from Germany’s team competes in the international portion of the JCTE.

ACF member Edward Manley, a retired U.S. Navy lieutenant commander and culinary/foodservice management trainer, says the partnership between ACF and the military is critical. “It’s so important to connect with our military members, especially the younger ones, and encourage them to get involved in ACF. There are wonderful jobs in foodservice as a member of the U.S. military, but not everyone knows that. From some of the research I’ve done, those who earn certifications are three times more likely to get promoted to [higher ranks like] E7, E8 and E9.”

Chef Marcelli shares the same goals as a member of the ACF Military Task Force. “I hope to dispel myths about the ACF among new military cooks that it’s not some secret club that you can only be a part of if you are a senior rank,” he says. “The ACF has done so much for the military and military chefs that I think it’s important to share best practices and continue to help each other.”

THE ACF MILITARY TASK FORCE

Jeffrey E. Phillips, CC - Chair

Guy Winks, CEC - Vice Chair

David A. Marcelli, CEC, CCE, AAC - Western Task Force Member

Jazmen Y. Davis, CWPC - USAF Member

Michael R. Edwards, CEC, PCEC, CCA - USN Member

Edward E. Fuchs, CEC, CCE - USGG Member

Eric Johnson - USN member

Dominic Difatta - Advisor

David Ivey-Soto, CEC, MBA - Civilian Advisor

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC - Board Liaison

“

THE JOINT CULINARY TRAINING EXERCISE (JCTE) IS ONE OF THE BEST EVENTS OF YEAR. NOT ONLY IS A GREAT ACF COMPETITION, BUT ALSO IT IS A GREAT MILITARY EXERCISE. THERE ARE MORE ACF MEDALS EARNED AT THIS ONE EVENT THAN ANY OTHER SINGLE EVENT. THERE ARE REPRESENTATIVES FROM EACH OF THE U.S. MILITARY BRANCHES. THIS SHOWS HOW CULINARY TRAINING FOR EXCELLENCE RETAINS SERVICE MEMBERS AND ADD TO THEIR READINESS IN THE FIELD. ”

- ACF Chef David Ivey-Soto CEC, MBA ACF Military Task Force civilian advisor

THE 48TH ANNUAL JOINT TRAINING EXERCISE

Culinarians from all branches of the U.S. military and three international teams met head to head compete for top honors at the 48th Joint Culinary Training Exercise, held March 1-8, at the McLaughlin Fitness Center, at Fort Gregg-Adams in Virginia. The JCTE, sanctioned by the ACF, is the largest military culinary event in North America and has grown from its earlier days when it included only members of the U.S. army and featured only cold foods. This year, the JCTE attracted 168 competitors.

“We also had anywhere from 100 to 200 attendees from the public on any given day,” says ACF Chef/Chief Karlatta Brown, a 22-year veteran foodservice manager for the U.S. Army who currently oversees special programs at the Fort Gregg-Adams’ Joint Culinary Center of Excellence, including the annual JCTE as well as ongoing advanced culinary arts and enlisted aid courses for members of the military. Chief Brown also manages the U.S. Culinary Arts Team (USACAT), which had recently returned from the IKA Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany, bringing home a bronze medal.

Known for its rigorous judging criteria, the JCTE encourages

professional development and tests competitors on presentation, taste and texture, nutrition, workmanship, concept development and creativity as well as on military-specific aspects of foodservice such as the ability to cook in the field. Chefs are tasked with cooking meals using Modern Burner Units (MBUs) that are so hot they can bend medal and so loud you might hear chefs working on them shouting to communicate.

During the hot food kitchen challenge portion of the JCTE, teams prepare and serve chef-driven meals in a simulated military kitchen trailer for 50 guests. The main competition categories include a cold food display with bread and hot food category requiring a five-course tasting for 150 people (tickets are open to the public for sampling).

The JCTE wasn’t always available for participation among all members of the military as it is now. In 2008, the Army Chef of the Year competition was changed to the Armed Forces Chef of the Year. At that time, chefs from all branches of service became eligible to compete for highly coveted awards. In 2009, The Army Center of Excellence officially became the Joint Culinary Center of Excellence, further integrating chefs and culinarians from each branch. It was in 2013 that the Center’s main event name changed to JCTE. Today, the Center offers both entry-level training opportunities — individually tailored for each of the military branches — as well as an advanced culinary training program for all branches combined.

The installations competing this year included Ft. Bliss, Ft. Carson, Ft. Drum, Ft. Liberty, Ft. Stewart from the U.S. Army as well as 8th Army Korea, U.S. Army Reserve, U.S. Air Force; U.S. Coast Guard; U.S. Marine Corps, U.S. Navy. International teams from France, Germany and the United Kingdom competed against

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL THE WINNERS FROM THE 48TH JCTE!

Armed Forces Master Chef of the Year (CS3 John Toman)

Armed Forces Pastry Chef of the Year (CW2 Christine Stanley)

Armed Forces Enlisted Aide of the Year (TSGT Luis Serrano-Matos)

each other. In addition to earning team medals, participants compete for recognition as military Chef of the Year, Pastry Chef of the Year, Enlisted Aid Chef of the Year, Student Chef of the Year and Student Team Champions, similar to the ACF national competitions.

Armed Forces Student Chef of the Year (CS3 Larry Burns)

Armed Forces Student Pastry Chef of the Year (SPC Alicia Lindo)

Armed Forces Student Team of the Year (SPC Joanne Del Mundo, PFC Jia Lin, PFC Antwarn Smith, PFC Karl Benjamin, PFC Anaya Bhatti)

This year’s panel of ACF judges included ACF National President René Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC , along with ACF Chefs David Turcotte, CEC, AAC , U.S. Army (lead judge and a former Armed Forces Chef of the Year award winner); Sgt. Major Mark Warren, CEC, AAC , JCTE/U.S. Army, Lawrence Matson, CEC, CCE, AAC , culinary arts chair, Tyler Junior College; Stafford DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC (former ACF president); Keith Keogh, CEC , Olive Isle Farm; Derek Spendlove, CEPC, CCE, AAC , Lyndon Learning; Louis Chatham, retired, CEC, AAC; Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF, retired; Douglas Fisher, CEC, CCE, AAC , former culinary educator; and Helmut Holzer, CMC , Global Culinary Solutions.

Outside of the annual exercise, the Joint Culinary Center of Excellence runs 10 eight-week advanced culinary arts courses all year long, and the Center offers a program for enlisted aides. Students can receive ACF certification or hours toward their certification upon completion. Graduates are “able to bring what they’ve learned back to their installations to make their dining facilities better and stay on top of changes in the foodservice industry,” says Chief Brown. “This is how we continue the legacy of military chefs.”

“ CULINARY COMPETITION SHARPENS A CHEF JUST AS A STONE SHARPENS A KNIFE. RAZOR SHARP MILITARY CHEFS ENSURES ACCOMPLISHMENT OF OUR ULTIMATE MISSION — GREAT FOOD FOR ALL SERVICEMEMBERS,

WHETHER THEY'RE WEARING ONE STRIPE OR FOUR STARS. ”

- ACF Chef Guy Winks, CEC, PCII Joint Culinary Center of Excellence instructor

ACF National President Rene J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC (center in suit), a retired U.S. Army enlisted aide with some of the winners from the 48th Joint Culinary Training Exercise at Fort Gregg-Adams in Virginia.

MENTAL HEALTH TODAY

Steps you can take right now to improve health and well-being for yourself and staff //

By Jeffrey Spear

Restaurant and foodservice work is relentless, demanding an ever-present smile, even when you have bad-mannered customers or insensitive co-workers. At this pace, coupled with irregular schedules that leave little time for rest, recovery and self-care, chefs, line cooks, servers, bartenders, hosts and managers are confronted with environments that are both physically and emotionally challenging. All too frequently, this leads to exhaustion, depression and substance abuse.

According to Culinary Hospitality Outreach and Wellness (CHOW), an organization whose mission is to support wellness within the hospitality industry, 63% of food, beverage and hospitality professionals suffer from depression. CHOW also reports 84% feel stress from their job, 65% report using substances at work and 53% feel they’ve been pushed to their breaking point.

Adding to this, there has been an unspoken rule among restaurant workers that, while just about anything can be discussed in the kitchen, issues related to mental health and well-being are swept under the rug and never openly discussed. For many, this creates feelings of isolation and leads to emotional damage.

Although conditions are slowly changing, restaurant workers are still reluctant, or do not know how to express their feelings. Fortunately, there are a growing number of individuals and support groups that are taking an interest, providing the love and support that have been missing for far too long.

This includes ACF Chef Jeffrey Schlissel , owner and executive chef of the Bacon Cartel, a private

chef and catering consultancy, and co-creator of the Farmers Craveable dinner series in Tampa, Fla. Originally from West Palm Beach, he says conflicts at a previous workplace motivated him to make changes in his life. “I learned about my own self-worth and the emotional impact restaurants can have; I had to give up my [restaurant] business to preserve my mental health,” he says.

It was around that time that Chef Schlissel noticed other restaurant workers were enduring similar hardships linked to stress and abusive behaviors at work. In addition, they were coping with less-thanideal conditions at home and struggled with various types of addictions. “These workers were in a bad place, had no idea how to communicate their problems or even know where to turn for help,” he says.

In the wake of these realizations, he has become a staunch advocate for health and well-being in the workplace. By telling his own stories, he has helped restaurant owners and workers learn how to engage with each other, make valuable connections and encourage each other to seek support from wellness organizations familiar with the darker side of the restaurant industry.

As the author of the forthcoming cookbook and memoir, “Craveable Obsessed: Memoirs of a Food Addicted Chef,” Chef Schlissel offers recipes and talks about his experiences in the restaurant industry, identifying the negatives he endured coupled with the positive steps he took to improve his outlook and overall mental health. The book also includes a comprehensive list of health and wellness support organizations that are set up to assist with industry-

specific challenges. In addition, as co-host of the WalkIn Talk podcast, Chef Schlissel continues to promote health and wellness in the restaurant industry and discusses similar obstacles faced by local farmers. Based on the issues that Chef Schlissel has identified, as well as those highlighted by many of the support organizations he recommends, these are seven easy-to-implement things that you and your coworkers can do — right now — to promote enhanced mental well-being.

1. R eward victories. Even if they are small achievements, take the time to say, “good job.” Let your co-workers know they are valued.

2. S hake hands. When your co-workers arrive, shake their hands and welcome them to work. After service, shake their hands again and wish them well.

3. Tell stories. Use family mealtime to talk openly about how you feel. Have an open conversation with your co-workers about mental health. Make it safe to acknowledge that it’s OK not to be OK. Make this the new norm.

4. Become a leader, not a boss. Make an effort to engage, mentor and inspire your co-workers. You’ll find they’ll become more involved, happier and willing to contribute.

5. Hold their hand. Sometimes individuals are too distressed to look after themselves. Take a personal interest, show love and support, and guide people to the resources that will be most helpful.

6. A djust your schedule. In light of ongoing labor shortages, some restaurants are finding that closing for a couple of days each week helps minimize staff burnout and attrition without significant revenue impact.

7. Stay connected. Even when they’re not on the job, your co-workers might be feeling burned out or depressed. Reach out with frequent texts, phone calls, video chats and emails. Ask how they’re doing. Take an interest in their situation and overall well-being.

There are numerous organizations offering much needed support to the foodservice community. Visit acfchefs.org/ACF/Resources/ Wellness to check out a comprehensive list.

ACF Chef Jeffrey Schlissel is a strong advocate for mental health management for foodservice professionals.

WHY TO CERTIFY

Reasons why students and aspiring chefs should consider ACF certifications from a culinary educator’s viewpoint //

Thinking about a career before your 18th birthday seems premature, but earning a paycheck is certainly exciting. Say your first real job was working in a local restaurant as a dishwasher in high school. The work is hard but not difficult; the people are energized, and when it’s busy, the adrenaline runs freely. Maybe on occasion, the breakfast cook pulls you onto the line to help with plating the never-ending stream of orders, flipping pancakes and cracking eggs. It’s great fun and you’re learning something new every day. By the end of summer, you’re able to fly solo during the slower parts of service having now mastered cooking eggs of all types, assembling plates for the pass and bantering with the service staff. It seems like this type of work suits you well and by senior year your mind is made up.

“I want to be a cook and maybe a chef someday,” you think. The goal is set. Now the hard part: How do you get there?

The chef took you under her wing, teaching you how to hold a knife,

By ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC

properly cut vegetables and work those egg pans like a champion. She pulled you aside one day for a serious talk about pursuing a career in the culinary arts. If you really want to become a chef someday, then there are several routes you might take. You can stick with the method you are used to, what we call the school of hard knocks; find a more formal apprenticeship program working with an accomplished chef; or attend culinary school. In all cases I would encourage you to be serious, give it your all and tune in to becoming certified along the way.

So, what is the purpose in seeking certification? This is a question that many cooks would ask. Although the reasons and benefits may be uniquely personal, here are some of my picks:

VALIDATION BY YOUR PEERS

Throughout our lives we tend to value the opinion of those with whom we have strong connections: parents, siblings, close friends, coaches and teachers. But few are more significant than professional peers — the people we admire for their skills, knowledge and commitment to a certain type of work. Certification is a standard of excellence judged by chefs who know what it takes to reach this pinnacle of their career. This peer recognition is one of the more gratifying aspects of working in a profession, whether athlete, doctor, musician, actor, artist or cook to name a few.

A WAY TO CHART CAREER MILESTONES

Certification provides a checklist that recognizes competence and confidence from cook apprentice to master chef. Each goal is significantly challenging, encompassing more and more skill and knowledge along the way. You might at one point ask yourself, “Where am I en route to my goal of chef? What else will it take and what must I work on to complete the journey?” Certification is part of your roadmap in answering these important questions.

A CHALLENGE WORTH TAKING

Many of us love challenges, especially ones that are just a touch beyond our ability at the time. They push us to improve and move the needle a bit further, to create a rallying cry to see just how much you can accomplish. The Japanese call this kaizen, or the commitment to constant improvement. Reaching for that carrot just out of your grasp brings strength through determination — a challenge worth taking on. Certification recognizes competence and in turn builds confidence.

ESTABLISHMENT OF YOUR PERSONAL VALUE PROPOSITION

Knowing your professional value in terms of skill and contribution is a self-motivating tool. Value is also a reason why an employer would seek you out and do so with an understanding of your worth to an organization. This will help to define compensation, rank and growth potential.

A WAY TO BUILD YOUR BRAND

People are not commodities. Your personal brand or image can serve as a hallmark for success as a future chef and the success of the restaurant or food-related business where you hang your hat. Certification validates your brand in addition to opening numerous professional doors throughout your career.

ELEVATING THE PROFESSION

When you demonstrate verified competence to the marketplace and personify professionalism, the position of chef is also lifted. You are the image of the American chef, and certification is a badge of honor that celebrates this.

ESTABLISH TRUST WITH YOUR GUESTS

Every guest who patronizes a restaurant places trust in the operation and those who tie on an apron. When they see that decal on the restaurant door that proclaims an ACF-certified chef oversees the operation, then they can rest assured the kitchen is operated under the highest standards. Certification builds trust.

To learn more about ACF certification levels, visit acfchefs.org/certification .

ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC, is president of Harvest America Ventures LLC, a foodservice consulting and training company. His culinary career spans nearly 50 years, and he has served as an executive chef, culinary educator, dean and consultant. Chef Sorgule earned a gold medal in the 1988 Culinary Olympics as a member of the New England Culinary Team, was recognized by ACF as the National Culinary Educator of the Year in 2001 and has received other medals and honors in culinary competitions over the years. Read his blog at harvestamericacues.com

ACF Certified Executive Chefs Russel Cunningham, CEC, CCA (left), and Paul Jensen, II, CEC, CCA, AAC (right), have had more opportunities open up after earning ACF certifications, including (as pictured here) competing for Chef of the Year at the 2023 ACF National Convention.

THE 2023 ACF STUDENT CHEF WINNERS

By John Bartimole

ACF Student Chef of the Year

Caitlyn Drzyzga, Joliet Junior College

Just as is the case with so many chefs, ACF Student Chef Caitlyn Drzyzga’s culinary career began at her family’s dining room table — but the 2023 ACF Student Chef of the Year took a detour from her typical family cooking responsibilities to win the competition.

“Cooking was always big for us growing up,” she says. “We had family dinners every night, and all of us were expected to be at the table for those dinners. Those dinners kind of brought us all up to date on each other’s day. It was a great experience. And my parents have been really supportive of all of my career goals since Day One. I’m the type of person where if my heart’s not in it, I can’t give 100%. They know that, and they support that.”

Drzyzga says she was primarily the baker for those family dinners; she enrolled at Joliet Junior College in Joliet, Ill., with the intent of honing her baking skills.

“Then I took my first cooking class, and from that point on, I wanted to cook,” she says. Drzyzga started practicing for the national competition in January 2022 and placed third in the regional qualifier in March last year, which allowed her to advance to the finals at the 2023 ACF National Convention in New Orleans. She made chicken Wellington with

potato dumplings, carrots, kohlrabi and asparagus with a chicken jus for her presentation at the regionals. At the national competition, she drew upon local Cajun/ Creole flavors and the “holy trinity” of NOLA cooking (onions, celery and bell pepper) for a pan-seared duck breast with pork-glazed carrots, potato dumplings, Romanesco cauliflower and duck jus. Her single-bite appetizer was a New Orleans-inspired seafood creole.

Drzyzga’s success in New Orleans has not dampened her enthusiasm for baking. “Oh, I still bake,” she says, adding that at press time, she had registered to compete in the ACF regional qualifiers in the spring. “I think it’s important for a chef to be well-rounded — to be able to go from hot, plated food to desserts. And I especially love to make a good cheesecake!”

Drzyzga took chocolate classes this past summer to broaden her dessert repertoire, while still working in the kitchen at a local brewery. She hopes to take business classes at her college to prepare her for management work at a restaurant or other foodservice company. At a young age, she’s already come a long way since her family’s daily dinners.

ACF Student Pastry Chef of the Year

Kambree Thomas, CC, Utah Valley University

ACF Chef Kambree Thomas, CC, already has a long career in the culinary arts. Chef Thomas, a recent graduate of Utah Valley University, has been baking — and cooking — since well before her teens, beginning with her family and then expanding her “clientele” to include friends.

“I just have a love of all things culinary,” she says. “But I’ve always especially loved baking. I remember baking with my grandma, and those are great memories.”

Her baking career quickened in high school, when she started making specialty cakes for friends and family for birthdays and other significant occasions.

“That’s just something I love doing,” she says.

While at Utah Valley, she was approached by one of her chef-instructors to apply for ACF’s Chef of the Year Award, but she declined, saying that she preferred

ACF Student Chef of the Year Caitlyn Drzyzga

making pastries. That’s when another chef-instructor, Chef Diana Fallis, approached her about entering the national Student Pastry Chef of the Year competition.

“I accepted, but I had no idea of how much time and work it would take to be in the competition,”

Chef Thomas says. “It was just so much practicing.”

Chef Thomas’ winning entry in the competition was a pecan chicory entremet with a mascarpone mousse, black currant fig sauce and candied fig, with bananas Foster ice cream and a chocolate anise tuile.

“One of the requirements was to honor the culinary traditions of New Orleans with a Mardi Gras theme, which is why I chose to use figs,” she says.

With that honor on her resume, Chef Thomas is already focusing on her future, and she has definite plans for her career path. Currently she is working at a ski resort as a line cook and pastry chef but has hopes to see more of the country and globe. “For the moment, I just want to travel and experience different restaurants and how they are operated,” she says. “Long-term, I would love to own my own bakery. But that’s down the road.”

Chef Thomas says culinary “is such a hard career, but I love it so much. I love going to work every day and going to the kitchen. I think I spend 90% of my time in the kitchen. I just love making things for people and seeing them enjoying what I made.”

The cooking and baking continue even back at home. “I’ll admit my family does count on me to bake, and I also try to make dinner every day for them. Food has such a gathering force to it,” she says.

2023 ACF National Student Team Champions

“Once you win a national championship, how do you do it again? How do you get the passion to do it again?”

The legendary former Duke coach Mike Krzyzewski once uttered these words in reference to basketball, but they can be applied to just about any competition. Indeed, winning a national championship the first time is eminently easier than repeating it the next year.

That’s what makes the Culinary Institute of New York at Monroe College’s 2023 repeat as ACF National Student Team Champions of the Year even more impressive.

The team defended its title at last year’s National Convention in New Orleans, and head coach Costantino, CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC (pictured far right), couldn’t be prouder.

“There were so many variables at the conference — particularly the heat and the kitchen setup,” he says. “It’s certainly more difficult to win it the second time. But having been in the qualifiers, this year’s team had experience, even as the competition was very stiff. When the competition is over, I’ve got to feel I’ve done everything I can do to give the team the best chance that I can.”

“That’s why I ask my students to trust me,” he adds. “This past year’s team was one of my easiest to coach. They never made the same mistake twice. We came out of the qualifiers six points above every other team. I told my students we had to hold that edge, and we actually increased it to eight points on the way to the championship.”

Chef Costantino has taken six teams to the nationals and now has had teams win twice. He’s already eager for this year. “It’s a new team, and I can already see the potential,” he says. “I so enjoy working with students on this intimate teaching level; it gives me more oneon-one time with each member, and I get to see the development of each student.”

ACF Student Chef of the Year Kambree Thomas

A deep dive on how one ACF pastry chef prepares this Latin American breakfast fave // By Robert Wemischner

What’s tender, somewhat sweet and has a shell resembling that of a tortoise? If you answered concha (meaning “shell” in Spanish), you hit the breakfast pastry jackpot. These ubiquitous sweet rolls, with their origins in Mexico, are found throughout North, Central and South America. Though eaten any time of day, these buns, part of the pan dulce category, are most commonly enjoyed as morning treats and have evolved to feature locally grown whole grains and even sourdough.

Concha dough resembles a French brioche, but the distinguishing difference is a cap on top called la pasta, which itself is in the rich cookie dough family and is traditionally made with sugar, flour and some sort of fat, often lard in Mexican versions. Some say conchas are a holdover from the French bakers who came to Mexico in the early to mid-19th century and often made choux sable, in which pâte à choux dough (eclair paste) is topped with a thin sheet of sweet dough before baking. In the case of the leavened conchas, the design cut into the top dough

ACF Chef David Carachure, executive chef, Center Stage Catering, Rocky Mount, Va., demonstrates how to make Mexican concha (credit: Eli Schopp).

becomes more defined as the roll expands during baking. Another explanation posits that in the earlier days with adobe ovens, the top dough protected the roll from drying out in the intense and often uncontrollable heat.

ACF Chef David Carachure , executive chef at Center Stage Catering in Rocky Mount, Va., calls upon his heritage when making his favorite conchas (his parents are from the Mexican states of Guerrero and Oaxaca) — but adds his own twists. “I love to use canela, the Mexican cinnamon, Abuelita chocolate and freeze-dried strawberries,” he says. “Although concha cutters with seashell or tortoise designs are commonly used, I also like to incise the topping by hand for a truly artisanal touch.”

For ease of handling and best flavor development, Chef Carachure makes the base dough the day before

baking, allowing for a bulk fermentation overnight in the refrigerator. To give the topping a bit of lift and lighter texture, he includes a small amount of baking powder. This mixture is pre-portioned and rolled into small balls and then flattened using a tortilla press. The topping part is then draped over the dough balls, which are then given a final proof before baking.

“Although freshly baked are best, as they stale slightly even hours after baking, they can be refreshed with a quick dip into a beverage accompaniment,” says Chef Carachure, who prefers to dip his conchas in atole, a masa-based beverage sweetened with cane sugar (piloncillo), vanilla and cinnamon that’s called champurrado when Mexican chocolate is added. Breakfast of champions, indeed.

For Chef Carachure’s concha recipe, visit acfchefs.org/recipes .

From top left: Step 1) make the concha dough, proof until doubled in size, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight; Step 2) divide dough into 2-ounce pieces and roll into balls; Step 3) make concha topping and flatten between plastic sheets using a tortilla press; Step 4) Place flattened toppings on top of each dough ball and score to resemble a seashell design, then bake until golden brown (credit: Eli Schopp).

ACF CHEFS OF CHARLOTTE NC011

By John Bartimole

The ACF Chefs of Charlotte chapter doesn’t have meetings. “We don’t call them meetings,” says Chef Jason Ziobrowski (who goes by “Chef Jay Z”), CEC, former president and current chairman of its board. “We call them meetups to focus on the interpersonal communication we strive to have at those events.”

His reasoning for that is simple — and successful. “The ACF is only as strong as the local chapters,” says Chef Ziobrowski, an R&D chef with Morrison Healthcare. “One of the things I stress about the ACF is the networking it provides its members. There’s so much more to being a chef than running a restaurant or being in a kitchen.

“You have to know the history of the industry,” he adds. “You have to look like a chef, act like a chef. And chapters — and the relationships formed there — help all of us to be better.”

The ACF Chefs of Charlotte chapter was founded in 2018, led by Chef Ziobrowski, who was the chapter’s first president. “I realized quickly that we had to build a strong board to lead us, and it was important for me to begin grooming the next president almost immediately,” he says. “You’ve got to constantly grow the organization.”

And fostering that growth is the chapter’s emphasis on networking and continuing education, according to ACF Chef Sandra Birmingham , chapter president and a chef-instructor at Central Piedmont Community College. “For example, Inland Seafood recently hosted the chapter at its new facility and gave us a superb tour of what they have there,” she says. “We learned so much about how they get and process the lobsters. It was a real education.”

ACF Chef Chris Aquilino, the chapter’s vice president and the national director of culinary development for Elior North America, says the success of the chapter — which numbers almost 110 members — is the chefs themselves.

“We have such a diverse base,” he says. “From private chefs to corporate chefs and everything in between. What impresses me most about this chapter is how our members have each others’ backs, both professionally and personally.”

Chef Ziobrowski adds that COVID-19 hurt the chapter, but it has rallied back since the pandemic. “Before COVID, we had 120 members,” he says. “During COVID, we dropped to 70. Now, we’re back above 100 again. We tried different methods of connecting during the pandemic, including videos and social media, with varying degrees of success. We took our hit, but we managed to stay pretty strong.”

Still, Chef Aquilino adds, “We are always trying to grow our chapter; we try to get our arms around the entire culinary community in Charlotte. Toward that end, most of our meetups are open to the public. We want people to attend and kick our tires. We want the opportunity to answer the question, ‘What is the benefit of membership? What’s in it for this group of innovative culinarians?’”

Chef Birmingham says she emphasizes and enjoys visiting high schools to let students know about the career opportunities available in culinary. “One of my goals as president is to reach as many students as possible,” she says. “I enjoy going into high schools and making presentations there about the opportunities we have.”

Chef Aquilino says that while the younger culinarians in the chapter have learning opportunities, he and the more seasoned chefs learn from the younger generation, too.

“Their work-life balance is different than ours,” he says. “I’m 47, and when I started, you would work past your scheduled hours just to be able to gain more knowledge and experience. You just wanted to be in the kitchen. But some of that now is not as necessary as it was in the past. Now, you can hop online and watch a master class taught by a well-known chef, and pause it, watch it again, as much as needed. Younger chefs have a different appetite. They’ve figured out the work-life balance much more and better than we did.”

Chef Ziobrowski recognizes the importance of attracting younger culinarians to the chapter.

“We go to schools and talk about the ACF with them and the importance of joining a chapter,” he says. “Recently, we just brought in 16 student members. You always have to be looking to add members and keep the chapter growing.”

For example, the chapter works closely with the Aspire Trade High School in Huntersville, N.C., which combines teaching a trade (including culinary) with a more prototypical high school academic program. “We have students coming into the chapter through that school, and we’re fortunate that some of our members actually work at that charter school,” Chef

Board of Directors

President - ACF Chef Sandra Dawn Birmingham

Vice President - ACF Chef Chris Aquilino

Chairman of the Board - ACF Chef “Jay Z” Ziobrowski, CEC

Treasurer - ACF Chef Tanya Cauren

Ziobrowski says. “So, we have our members recruiting new members. That’s an ideal way to grow the chapter.”

The chapter places an emphasis on working with other schools, too, such as Central Piedmont Community College and the Charlotte campus of Johnson & Wales University. Among the many nonprofits the chapter supports are Campus Outreach Charlotte and Feeding Charlotte.

Chef Ziobrowksi says the chapter emphasizes education and certification, and works with other chapters in Raleigh and Atlanta to provide those opportunities. In April, the chapter hosted an ACF certification and practical exam, as well as provided breakfast in the same month at a popular fishing festival.

“When I travel, which is 50% of my job, I always look up the local ACF chapter,” Chef Ziobrowksi says. “Invariably, they will recommend me to a restaurant, and I can tell the folks there that so-and-so sent me here.

“I certainly believe in the chapter,” he adds. “Your involvement in it pays you back in so many ways. It’s helped me immensely in my career.”

Top (clockwise from left): ACF Chefs Jason Ziobrowski, CEC; Isaiah Gerrard; Susanne Ebacher-Grier, CEPC; Jason Pooker; Fionna Espana, CWPC; NAME TK; and Andrew Prosser at an ACF Chapters Supporting Chapters Task Force meetup. Bottom (from left): ACF Chefs and members of the Charlotte chapter Kristie Reid; Ziobrowski; Tanya Cauren; Renee Padgett, CC; Noel Ridsdale, CEC, CCA, AAC.

PANS OF STEEL

A conversation with an ACF chef/instructor about his favorite pans

You walk into a restaurant supplies store and there are walls of pots and pans. Tri-ply, two-ply, stainless steel, aluminum — the options are endless. How do you know which one to choose?

We sat down with ACF Chef Jack Birren, CEC , chef/instructor at Waukesha County Technical College, the 2022 ACF Chef Educator of the Year and a member of ACF Chefs of Milwaukee, to talk about the benefits of stainless steel pans and why investing in quality cookware helps you up your culinary game (and save money, too).

Q: In the clash of metals, why does stainless steel win out?

A: Stainless steel is the gold standard for cookware because it’s more versatile for a variety of reasons. One, you can cook from any type of heating source — gas, electric, induction. It’s also more durable. You don’t have to worry about warping, whereas with aluminum the center will start to warp within hours of high heat exposure and you won’t get as good of a sear. It’s also denser and sturdier than aluminum so dropping or banging against other pans in a busy kitchen isn’t as much of a worry. From a cooking aspect, you don’t have to worry about chemical reactions with things like tomato sauces or when finishing light sauces. Whipping metal tools up against aluminum pans can cause them

to turn your sauce grey and then waste time and product starting over.

Q: What are the benefits of investing in quality cookware?

A: Spending less over a long period of time. You may go with the cheaper alternative to save money initially, but in three months when the pan warps or the handle breaks off, something goes wrong, or it’s dented — now you’re investing more money and having to buy a replacement and you’re back to square one. In the long run you’ll probably end up spending the same amount than if you just bought the more durable pan in the first place. Well-made pans are more durable, more consistent, and your food will look — and believe it or not — taste better than some of the other pans out there. Specifically, tri-ply pans with the polished finish are nice to show off, too, if you’re doing chef’s tables or finishing dishes at the table.

Q: What’s a brand you’d recommend and why?

A: I love the Browne Foodservice Thermalloy pans, not just because they have the ACF Seal of Approval [awarded after a product or service has been scrupulously tested by a dedicated team of ACFcertified chefs], but also because they’re sturdy and have a great feel to them. Between the ergonomics, the weight of the pan versus the handle, the angle of the handles — it’s a quality pan. They also heat up evenly and keep the heat consistent for a reasonable amount of time compared to other pans I’ve used. Some other brands of stainless steel take forever to heat up and when they do, it’s not consistent because they’re poorly made. These pans have been nothing but fantastic for my classes and the students. Tri-ply [in particular] is my favorite, it’s fantastic! I’m looking at the new tri-ply saucepans and I’m getting excited, like, what can I cook in it?

To learn more about Thermalloy Cookware by Browne Foodservice, visit brownefoodservice.com .

Memorable Meals

Country club chefs strive to provide top ingredients, menus and presentations // By Amanda Baltazar

The overarching goal of chefs who work in country clubs is to provide their members with memorable food experiences.

“I strive to give them something they can’t find in town but also something that’s on par or exceeds what they’re getting from their [other] clubs,” says ACF Chef Adam Deviney, CEC , executive chef, The Country Club of North Carolina in Pinehurst.

Chef Deviney aims to provide this top-notch experience through his products — organic, seasonal and local produce, as well as prime cuts of meat and fresh local seafood. “It starts with the quality of the ingredients, and a lot comes down to not manipulating it too much — just slice it and serve it.”

He prefers to stick with mostly classical cooking techniques, and one of his favorite dishes is “a very simple fusion dish: bulgogi beef pasta,” he says. This features home-made kimchi, house-made gemelli, Korean bulgogi marinated beef, pickled carrots, cashews and chives.

Plating can make all the difference to how his dishes look, and Chef Deviney uses a lot of small tools including cracker molds, mini fruit molds, rings and brushes. “It’s taking something that was great in the first place and giving it a more modern presentation,” he says.

ACF Chef Phoebe Beiter, CCC , is the expo line chef at the Country Club of Buffalo (N.Y.) and president of the ACF of Greater Buffalo New York Chapter. At just 23, she’s one of the youngest ACF members to hold a chapter presidency office. Some members at her club visit every week so the menus change frequently. Dishes are both classical and modern, and they embrace various cuisines. The changing menu, she says, “not only offers variety

ACF Chef Adam Deviney, CEC (top left) uses small molds, rings and brushes for plating his dishes (bottom right) at The Country Club of North Carolina in Pinehurst.

the membership enjoys, but also encourages our kitchen staff to try new techniques and flavor profiles.”

Elegant Comfort

The clientele at Jonathan’s Landing Golf Club in Jupiter, Fla., “wants elegant specials and comfort food,” says ACF Chef Joseph Watters, executive chef, who changes 65-75% of his menu every four to six weeks. He recently rebranded the menu, with a new cover and design, and incorporated new dish concepts. These include a cold section with sushi, sashimi and ceviche of the day as well as a tuna tartare, along with a skewer section with different marinades and rubs from around the world. He also brought in some more high-end dishes such as panseared foie gras.

One of Chef Watters’ favorite dishes is a prosciutto-wrapped rabbit loin — red wine-braised leg, corn puree, Jerusalem artichoke, fricassee fingerling potato and a mustard cream sauce to suit the high-endbut-approachable dishes his customer base craves. “It’s what they’re looking for — a small amount of protein, well done and elegantly plated,” he says. “Really understanding your membership helps you evolve into the direction they want.”

Chef Watters also holds wine dinners where the sky’s the limit. To come up with these meals, he starts by tasting each wine that will be served. “Then I will look for characteristics that will start to develop a clean flow and progression on the food to be paired with it. We look for cold food elements to help refresh certain dishes and others become much more complex and with depth of flavor to go with bigger wines like cabs and Bordeaux.”

He puts a lot of energy into the presentation, trying different options, adding or subtracting certain ingredients or garnishes. He also incorporates dry ice presentations or liquid nitrogen demos to finish off certain dishes.

Using Social Media

ACF Chef Adam Deviney, CEC, executive chef, The Country Club of North Carolina in Pinehurst, includes social media as part of his job, and uses it to attract new employees.

“The industry is lacking younger chefs and younger cooks, and that presence is important for us,” he says. “Most people don’t realize what it’s like to work at a country club. Because we’re not fighting for that bottom line like an independent restaurant, we can cook very differently.”

Chef Deviney posts images of food to get the word out about what happens at the club. This pays dividends when cooks and chefs looking for work can see the craft and the positive collaborations happening daily. He even shoots drone footage of parties, then clips it into small files for posting.

It’s important to show what the club’s doing on social media as well as the positive work atmosphere. “There was a lot of yelling and belittling when I was a young chef,” he says. “We need to change the reputation of the business.”

ACF Chef Phoebe Beiter, CCC (top right), president of the ACF Greater Buffalo New York Chapter, sources local ingredients and whole fish for her dishes at the Country Club of Buffalo (N.Y.).

Even with comfort foods, Chef Watters makes sure he’s using the very best ingredients, such as whole muscle grinds instead of scraps for burgers. “The coil of the ground offers a steakhouse feel, which is more appealing as you’re eating it,” he says.

Balancing Sustainability

One challenge with serving the very best food to country club members is it’s not always the most sustainable choice.

“Your typical diner expects to have a wide variety, and a lot of times those things are available but not really in season,” says Chef Deviney. He tries to be as sustainable as he can, but “there is just not enough [sustainable] product to satisfy the demand from membership.”

Chef Beiter buys local produce in the seasons when that’s feasible, and bases menus on what’s available. “That adds to the quality of what we’re offering,” she says, noting that she also purchases seafood in the largest volumes possible, including whole sides of salmon. “I think you get better quality at that point.”

Quality trumps sustainability for her members, she says. “If we have to pay a little more, but the membership is happy, that’s most important.”

Chef Watters also tries to buy locally as much as he can. “We can’t eliminate prime rib and strip filets, but we try to use local farmers, local produce,” he says. Luckily, he has access to a lot of seafood in Florida, but he does fly in certain items like tuna from Hawaii, Dover sole, halibut and wild salmon.

“We try to keep it as sustainable as we can, but we still have to serve our membership,” he says. For the most part, it’s more individual ingredients that he aims to source sustainably, rather than the full menu.

Strip steak (above) and chocolate cake (below) by ACF Chef Joseph Watters, executive chef of Jonathan’s Landing Golf Club in Jupiter, Fla.

NCR Quiz

May/June 2024

By Robert Penry

Which chef will be leading a session on “AI for Culinary Operations” at the 2024 ACF National Convention in Phoenix, Arizona?

a. ACF Chef Tim Recher, CEC, AAC

b. ACF Chef Rich Rosendale, CMC

c. ACF Chef Jim Perko, CEC, AAC

d. ACF Chef Ken Arnone, CMC

Which type of barbecue sauce has experienced a 25% growth on U.S. menus in the last year according to Datassential’s MenuTrends report?

a. W hite barbecue sauce

b. Korean barbecue sauce

c. Hot honey barbecue sauce

d. Jamaican barbecue sauce

What does ACF Chefs of Charlotte chapter president Chef Sandra Birmingham emphasize and enjoy doing to promote culinary career opportunities?

a. Organizing cooking competitions

b. Hosting cooking classes for adult

c. Visiting high schools to inform students

d. Collaborating with other local chapters to host culinary events

After growing in popularity during the pandemic, food trucks make entry into the restaurant industry easier due to lower overhead costs and the fact they require little to no real estate.

a. Tr ue

b. Fa lse

Because of the need to get enlistees out to the fleet, the U.S. Coast Guard has condensed its culinary specialist training curriculum to .

a. f ive weeks

b. nine weeks

c. 1 3 weeks

d. 1 5 weeks

Who oversees special programs at Fort Gregg-Adams’ Joint Culinary Center of Excellence, including the annual Joint Culinary Training Exercise (JCTE)?

a. ACF National President René Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC

b. ACF Chef Chief Karlatta Brown

c. ACF Chef David Ivey-Soto, CEC, MBA

d. ACF Chef Guy Winks, CEC

What strategy did Trent Jurgensen, owner of The Flying Dutchman, utilize to increase exposure for his fish and chips food truck?

a. Participating in local picnics, special events and farmers markets

b. O perating multiple food trucks across the state

c. O ffering discounts and promotions to customers

d. Focusing solely on social media advertising

In a modernized presentation of the classical gâteau St.Honoré created by ACF Pastry Chef William Racin, CEPC, what type of crescent-shaped pastry crust is used?

a. Pâte Brisée

b. Pâte Sablée

c. Pâte Feuilletée

d. Pâte Sucrée

See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn four

How many barbecue restaurants are estimated to be in the U.S. according to research firm IBIS?

a. O ver 5,000

b. O ver 10,000

c. O ver 15,000

d. O ver 20,000

What premium protein does Texas barbecue expert Doug Pickering use in the sausages made at Douglas Bar and Grill, a modern barbecue concept located in Dallas, Texas?

a. Duroc pork

b. A kaushi beef

c. Texas wagyu

d. Moulard duck

What is one of the challenges ACF Chef Deviney, CEC, faces in maintaining sustainability in his menu offerings at The Country Club of North Carolina located in Pinehurst, N.C.?

a. A lack of interest from the club members in sustainable practices

b. L imited access to high-quality, sustainable ingredients

c. The high cost associated with sustainable sourcing

d. E xcessive regulations imposed by the local government

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The 2024 ACF National Convention is being held July 14-17, 2024, at the Phoenix Convention Center in Phoenix, Arizona. Visit acfchefs.org/events for more information