HOMEOWNER’S HANDBOOK & Construction Guide
MAJOR EVENTS (a consolidated overview)
This Major Events list is an Overview to help you understand the timing of items you will see during construction. It is a summary of all the activities that take place. If you are performing some of the activities and relying upon the proceeds from a construction loan to pay for these items, do not order the work to be done or purchase the materials until you know the funds are available.
BEFORE CONSTRUCTION BY ADAIR BEGINS Due Diligence General Activities (Prior to Contract with Adair)
q Complete Jurisdiction Visit q Verify availability of building permit q Verify availability of utility services q Verify setbacks q Obtain written “bids” q Loan approval from your lender q Locate and mark the property corner irons q Stake location of house on the site Items to be Completed During PreConstruction
q Attend Reservation Meeting q Verify Appraisal Ordered, if you have a loan q Obtain Earnest Money Agreement extension, if needed q Confirm electrical service design/layout/needs with utility company q Apply for Building Permit following PreConstruction Meeting q Apply for Site and Location specific Permits, if needed q Obtain temporary electric service permit q Excavate the site (See details on Cold Weather or Frozen Ground) q Install driveway q Install the well, if applicable q Demolition/removal/resale of Existing Structures, if needed Check off items as they are complete on your Notice to Proceed. This is your list of items that need to be completed before Adair can begin construction.
After the Excavation and Driveway Have Been Completed
q Re-stake the house/garage within the excavation including porch posts q Install temporary electric service (1) 220 and (2) 110’s q Deliver portable toilet www.ADAIRHOMES.com
MAJOR EVENTS (a consolidated overview)
q Install pump in well and provide temporary electrical connection;
provide temporary running water (standpipe)
q Confirm property corner irons are still in place q Notify Adair if there are any changes to the Plot Plan Final PreConstruction Requirements:
q Sign Notice to Proceed and deliver to Branch PreConstruction Administrator
confirming all preliminary work has been completed.
q Schedule Site Inspection and meet with superintendent on site q Sign “Site Verification Report”, (Supplied by Adair at that time)
Congratulations! YOU ARE NOW MOVING INTO VERTICAL CONSTRUCTION AFTER CONSTRUCTION BY ADAIR BEGINS Immediately after the Foundation has been Poured and Before Lumber is Delivered
q Install crawl space drain q Install rain-drains (Have both crawlspace and rain-drains inspected prior to covering.
Not applicable in all areas)
q Schedule your excavator to back-fill when the concrete forms are removed
(give advance notice when you see forms have been set up
q Provide and place garage rock, grade & compact to lines placed by Adair
(leave areas around water and sewer stub-outs open, 5’x5’ area suggested)
q Re-grade/add additional rock to driveway as required q Water seal foundation and install envelope drainage, if applicable q Recommend placing straw around site to reduce mud, if building in wet weather conditions After the Rough Framing is Completed
q Clean interior; clean out window and sliding door tracks, stack all scrap lumber
Note: Leave stickers on windows until after final inspection, Adair will pick up usable products
q Prepare, caulk, seal, and paint the exterior of the house (coordinate schedule with
Construction Superintendent; not applicable if Adair Homes paint option is selected)
q Dry out home to required moisture levels. Work with your superintendent to assure
home is below the required level. (location specific)
After the Rough Plumbing is Complete and Inspected
q Connect your water source to the house plumbing “stub-out” q Install sewage disposal and connect to the sewer line “stub-out” q Connect gas line to house, if applicable www.ADAIRHOMES.com
MAJOR EVENTS (a consolidated overview)
After the Rough Electrical Wiring is Complete and Inspected
q Connect permanent power to house q Clean interior of house q Fill open trenches After the Sheetrock has been Nailed Only (before other processes)
q Drywall contractor will scrap drywall and sweep out the house. After the Sheetrock Texture Has Been Applied and Dried
q Clean interior of the house q Notify trade contractors for steps, patio, walks, aprons, decks, etc. that work is eminent
and identify schedule date with construction superintendent
q Paint interior of house (Coordinate schedule with Construction superintendent; not
applicable if Adair Homes paint option is selected
After Gutters and Downspouts have been Installed (not applicable in some areas)
q Verify installation of rain-drain system, (location specific) q Make sure that inspections are called for and passed prior to covering trenches After Cabinetry is Installed:
q Clean interior of house to prepare for floor coverings At Substantial Completion of Adair’s Work:
q Clean interior of house q Complete final grading q Complete landscape or protective measures to prevent soil erosion q Install exterior items as required (steps, patio, walks, aprons, decks, etc.) q Install permanent house (address) numbers q Touch up painting as required q Add finish surface to driveway q All other items necessary to obtain an “Occupancy Permit” Note: This is only a generalized and condensed overview. This list may not be all-inclusive. Your particular project may require additional items.
Final Closing YOU’VE RECEIVED YOUR KEYS AND ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO ENJOYING YOUR DREAM HOME. www.ADAIRHOMES.com
ADAIR / CUSTOMER JOINT SCOPE OF WORK (a general outline) 1. Foundation and Inspections
q Backfill q Low Point Drains q Rain Drain connections (location specific) 2. Under-Floor Framing and Joist Installation, Under-Floor Plumbing, and Inspection by Local Jurisdiction Note: In some areas these steps will be eliminated and the entire structure will be erected during the framing process after which rough-in. Electrical, plumbing, and mechanicals plumbing will be installed.
3. Framing (includes siding, windows, roof trusses, roof sheeting) 4. Top-Out or Rough-In Plumbing It is important that the temporary water is operational for the plumbing test (an additional charge for a return trip will be necessary if temporary water is not available.) Make sure that any special instructions to operate the water systems are communicated to the Construction Team and posted on the site.
5. Roofing Installed 6. HVAC System / Gas Lines / Ducting Installed 7. Exterior Sealing / Caulking Painting 8. Rough Electrical 9. Clean-up; Including Sweep-out of House 10. Dry-Out Process
q Adair monitors moisture conditions (location specific) Provide fans, de-humidifiers and/or temporary heat as necessary to promote drying, including crawl space area if moisture is above 18%.
11. Inspections (Government) 12. Utility Connections
q Install Septic System (if applies) q Connect sewer and water to plumbing stubs after inspection approval of utility rough-ins q Connect permanent power when the green sticker is placed on meter base www.ADAIRHOMES.com
ADAIR/CUSTOMER JOINT SCOPE OF WORK (a general outline)
13. Pre-Drywall Orientation Meeting 14. Insulation 15. Sheetrock 16. Complete Interior Painting Do not turn water on into the house until advised to do so Cover HVAC outlets, heaters, exhaust openings, etc. before painting Important Note: Minimum temperature of 70oF in house through the entire finish stage of construction
17. Clean Up
q Remove paper, and scrape floors, and completely sweep free of all debris 18. Install House Numbers on Exterior, or Install Address Numbers at Public Road (rural sites where required) 19. Install/Construct Landings, Steps and Decks as Required by Code 20. Garage Door Installation 21. All Finishing Materials are Delivered (Keep exterior doors locked!) 22. Finish Carpentry 23. Clean Up
q Sweep and make ready for countertops and floor coverings 24. Countertops Installed 25. Plumbing & Electrical Fixtures Installed Avoid having to pay the plumber a return trip fee if the sewer and water are not connected or functional before this stage
26. HVAC Trim Installed; Including Setting the Heat Pump/Air Conditioner
q Final sweeping of floors prior to flooring installation. 27. Flooring Installed (sweep prior) 28. Final Stages of Finish Carpentry
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ADAIR/CUSTOMER JOINT SCOPE OF WORK (a general outline)
29. Inspections (Government) 30. Clean Up
q Complete a thorough cleaning of entire house, inside and out. This is very important for a
thorough inspection and Quality Control
31. Pre-Occupancy Orientation with Adair Superintendent This is your final opportunity to bring all remaining issues to Adair’s attention. Adair will complete all items before Final Walk-Through and Closing.
q Paint touch up, if applicable q All steps, decks, and egress completed prior to Final Inspection 32. Final Inspections (Government) 33. Final Walk-through, Orientation and Closing
q Pay remaining balance owed to Adair q Sign final closing papers with Adair. Ensure alternate mailing address is provided
on the Warranty Application if your new residence does not have a mail receptacle yet. Very important so that you can receive your Warranty Certificate in a timely manner.
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DETAILS, DEFINITIONS & HELPFUL INFORMATION PART 1 Backfill After your foundation has been completed, it is important that you promptly backfill your site in order to create a safe and efficient area for the tradespersons. So once you see the foundation being placed, immediately call your excavator and schedule the backfill. (A final grading will also be required after the house is completed.) Communication with your superintendent is important to ensure a successful backfill. If conditions are wet or muddy, please coordinate with your superintendent prior to backfill.
Final Grading and Soil Erosion Control A final grading of the area surrounding the house is required. At some time approaching the completion of the home, you should schedule the excavator to perform this task. After initial backfill of the foundation, the soils placed will settle both next to and around the house and in utility trenches that have been filled. The backfill may not have been placed with the required slope away from the house. There may also be cuts that have been made into slopes that will need to be modified to create proper drainage away from the house and to prevent soil erosion and slides. Among other things, the purpose of the final grading is to ensure that water will not accumulate next to or under the house.
Recently Placed Bare Soils are Susceptible to Erosion You should employ measures to prevent this erosion of the soils after the final grading. This may mean anything from spreading straw over areas to performing certain landscaping work. You should check with your excavator or other experts in preventing soil erosion for assistance in determining what to do on your site.
Garage Fill Concrete floors will be poured on non-compressible material such as sand or rock. There are a few areas or sites where the natural site materials can be used, such as a sandy site at the beach or certain sites east of the Cascade Mountains. Your excavator will provide, install and compact fill material at the time of backfill. Your superintendent will provide a fill height on your garage foundation wall for reference.
Concrete Cracks It is common that your concrete may crack at some point. This includes the foundation, garage floor, driveway, sidewalks, and patio. Cracking is a natural characteristic of concrete curing and may take place soon after the concrete has been placed or years later. Since all concrete cracks, there is no need for alarm when it takes place, as it retains the strength to do the job it was designed to do.
Crawl-Space Drainage It is extremely important that moisture/water is not allowed to accumulate (become trapped) in the crawl-space of your house where it can cause damage (mold, rot, etc.). (The plastic ground cover only limits the access of air-borne moisture emitted from the soil, and the foundation vents are not sufficient to remove water.) In the event water unexpectedly or accidentally does gain access to the crawl-space, a drain system must be in place to immediately carry it away. On the next page is an illustration of a simple system.
Sealing the Wall System All the exterior components of the house (light fixtures, windows, siding, doors, corner trim, outlets, faucets, meter base, sealants, paint, etc.) collectively create a barrier through which water cannot be allowed to penetrate.
Concrete Clearance Concrete must not be poured against siding or wood components of the home. The top surface of any landings or patios must be at least one inch below the bottom of the siding or any wood trim.
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Make sure wood decks and concrete landings are below the bottom of the siding and not attached to, or poured against, wood components of the house.
Moisture Content Adair’s Moisture Content standard is 18%. If it is determined that the moisture content is above this level, construction will cease and you will be notified that additional dry out needs to resume. It is important to remember that employing the correct dry out method during this time can substantially reduce the overall build time and save you money in the long run. Conversely, stalling or doing little during this time can cost you interest on your loan, additional time in your build, and impact your current living situation. Work closely with Adair to dry-out your home as quickly and efficiently as possible. The use of professional equipment is always suggested.
Overhead Garage Doors and Garage Access Doors Garage doors, both overhead and hinged, are not weather tight. You can expect wind-driven rain to penetrate the perimeters of these doors and water to accumulate on the floor.
Window Screens Window screens are provided by Adair. The screens may be shipped with your windows to the job site. If so, please take steps to protect them until you need them later. Or, they may be provided by Adair Homes at completion of the project.
Scrap and Excess Lumber or Materials Do not remove any of the materials, including what you might think is scrap from the site, until after the completion of the house.
Framing is not the only time we use lumber. We intentionally ship some extra, and we will pick it up. This pick-up normally takes place after framing and final corrections are completed.
Water and Sewage Line Connections After the water and sewage lines have been installed in your house and “stubbed” to the exterior, and the approved “top out” plumbing inspection has been posted, connect these lines to their respective services. (Take care to ensure that there is no dirt, rocks, or other debris in your water line, which can cause the faucet valves to fail.) Leave the exterior water shut-off valve in the OFF position during and after connecting the water line. Plumbing waste and water systems are put under test for the benefit of the inspector. A plug is placed in the sewer stub and the waste system (including tubs, vent lines, etc.) is filled with water. The water lines are tested with air pressure so don’t open a hose faucet or the shut-off valve. If these tests are in place at the time you are prepared to make the connections, call your Adair office for further instruction before making the connections. Also, be aware of
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freezing temperatures that could cause the pipes to burst. Provide protection and contact your Adair Homes team as necessary to prevent damage.
Water Pressure and Finish Plumbing The plumber will flush the water lines and then install the finish plumbing – faucets, sinks, toilets, etc. He will then test for leaks and proper operation. If there is no water pressure to the house, he will be unable to make the necessary checks at each stage, and you will be responsible for determining that everything is functioning properly.
Gutters and Downspouts Gutters and downspouts are included on some Adair homes, but not all. If they are not an inclusion on your house (typically east of the Cascades where ice-damming is a factor) this does not mean that they should not be installed in every case. If your site grades or soil composition causes water to collect or be retained around your house it may migrate under your house and cause damage to the structure and/or cause mold growth. If this is the case, either modify the grades/soil or add gutters and downspouts after Adair has completed its work (See “Rain Drains”).
Electrical Panels and Meter The electrician has been instructed to locate your meter base and electric panel at his discretion (unless you and Adair have previously agreed upon a location). This is to prevent excessive use of materials, to conform to code, and to conserve your money. Codes define acceptable areas for breaker panels which include behind interior doors and hallways, and exclude closets and other confined areas. At times, homeowners may request or expect a particular location (closets, etc.), not knowing that this would violate the code. The electrician will make the final decision.
Ceiling Fans, Outlets, TV and Phone If you have ordered an outlet for a ceiling fan, other specially ordered electrical outlet, or TV/telephone jacks, the approximate location will be identified on your plans and reviewed with your Construction Team at the time of your PreConstruction Meeting. Your Superintendent will also be verifying locations of outlets and specially ordered electrical components at the time of the midpoint walk.
Telephones, Cable Television Your home order includes the installation of telephone and TV jacks in the approximate locations identified by you on the signed floor plan. We also recognize that there now exist a wide variety of options in the area of communications cabling. To avoid confusion and conflict, traditional telephone and TV jacks such as those included in your house order are only available to you through Adair. After they are installed and before sheet-rocking begins, confirm that the locations are as you had selected. Once you know the completion date of the house, contact your phone company to connect the phone system. You may also arrange for other types of cabling and this is discussed below.
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Stereo, Computer Wiring Adair will allow you to install code-approved stereo and/or computer low voltage wiring in the house after the rough-wiring has been completed. However, you must confirm that you will be exercising this opportunity with your Construction team no later than at your “Site Inspection”, provide whatever details requested by Adair (drawings, etc), and receive Adair’s confirmation that you may proceed with your plans. This allows Adair to factor your plans into the construction schedule for your home. Certain permits and inspections will be required for this work and you will need to care for these. Your work cannot include modifying or adding to the line voltage electrical system or low voltage jacks provided by Adair. Be certain to substantially secure every wire where it will pass through the sheetrock, and to identify each wire with a label. Immediately after the sheetrock has been nailed (and before the taping takes place), inspect the house to ensure all your wires have been extended through the sheetrock. Note: The wiring may be damaged during the sheetrock phase. It is your responsibility to make all corrections or repairs to the wiring you install.
Fiberglass Tub and Showers When doing clean-up you will want to be careful to use the right techniques and products on the fiberglass tubs and showers. After rough-in work is done, carefully clean up these units. Look for nails or other sharp objects that may have collected in the units and remove these by hand, first. Then sweep the units out with a soft bristle brush. (Be careful with vacuum attachments that they do not mark the surfaces.) Finally, a quick rinsing should complete the cleaning. If more is needed, consult the cleaning instructions affixed to the tub and never use sharp objects to remove either stickers or other materials. During the water test phase the tubs are filled with water and can accumulate debris from ongoing work. You will need to take care to avoid large amounts of debris going into your drain lines. This can cause blockage to your lines once you occupy the home.
Curtain Rod Backing If you plan to install curtain rods that will extend beyond the framing members at the top of the windows or patio door, you can install some backing on each side of the window or door. This is done by nailing pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 between or against the wall studs on each side of the window. Drapery rods should be extended out from the window frame so that the drapes will stack outside the glass area and prevent covering up the window. Please collaborate with your superintendent.
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Finish Package Delivery Shortly after the date you indicated the interior painting and clean-up will be completed, the products to finish your house (cabinets, flooring, appliances, etc.) will all arrive in one delivery. At delivery, the house and garage should be locked. The house key will be left on top of the electric meter for the tradespersons access unless otherwise specified. It is very important that the painting is done, the house is free of debris, and there are no obstructions (such as an open trench, fresh concrete, etc.) to impede our trade partners. Contact Adair Homes in advance if there is a legitimate reason to reschedule the delivery (which will incur a charge). Note: Materials must be kept warm and dry!
Home Orientation Inspection As your home nears completion, Adair will contact you to schedule an appointment to meet at the house for a “PreWalk” inspection. The purpose of the “Pre-Walk” is to: ::: Provide you with an orientation of the features of your new house and the Builder Backed Warranty (This certificate will be mailed directly from the program administrator, and the complete warranty packet will be emailed to you from Adair’s Customer Care Department) ::: Introduce and discuss the importance of a maintenance schedule such as changing HVAC filters, weatherization activities, caulking, and painting. ::: Address homeowner questions and create a punch list of items in need of correction. To prepare for this inspection, clean the house thoroughly so any defects in the flooring, cabinets, tub/shower, and windows can be readily identified. Typically, all items will be cared for before the closing/occupancy procedures take place. (Exceptions such as: ordering cabinet doors and drawers or a replacement door for the cook stove will not delay the closing and occupancy unless you choose to wait.)
PART 2: FINAL INSPECTION, CLOSING DOCUMENTS, AND FINAL PAYMENT After any defects have been cared for, Adair will contact you to schedule an appointment at the house to do the following: ::: Review the correction of the defects noted at the Home Orientation Inspection ::: Execute the Home Orientation document ::: Facilitate the final payment to Adair Homes
Occupancy In accordance with the Agreement documents, you may not occupy your house until certain steps are completed. The jurisdiction prohibits occupancy of home prior to final inspections are completed. In addition, Adair cannot accept responsibility for the safety of your belongings during active construction. Occupancy includes the storing of any personal belongings in the house or garage. Please, do not inhabit or move any personal belongings into the house until: ::: You have completed the items of responsibility contained in the Agreement documents and other code-required responsibilities (steps, grading, address numbers, exterior sealing/caulking, etc.) ::: The building official has performed a final inspection and provided you with an Occupancy Permit. (contact your superintendent for how this inspection will be coordinated.) ::: The Adair Home Orientation and all closing documents have been signed and Adair has been paid in full.
Course of Construction Insurance If you have a construction loan, you were required to obtain insurance as called for in the Agreement documents. In cash projects, you will need to secure your construction insurance prior to work commencing on your property. Provide your insurance agent the copy of the “Project Insurance Requirements”. If you need a copy, please ask
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DETAILS, DEFINITIONS & HELPFUL INFORMATION your Pre-Construction Administrator. Instruct your insurance agency that Adair must be shown on your insurance binder as “Loss Payee” and to promptly provide a copy of the binder to Adair.
Mortgage Lender Your mortgage lender will not allow Adair to start construction before they notify Adair, in writing, that your mortgage has been recorded and the project funding is now available. (Do not confuse a mortgage “commitment” with “recorded”).
Mortgage Payments If your house is being financed, or if you are responsible to release funds to Adair, please process these requests quickly. We use the funds to pay for the materials and labor for your house, and without the funds we will need to halt construction. If we stop construction, it can take time to reschedule trades and get the project back on track. Additionally, all Change Orders need to be paid promptly in order to keep your job moving forward smoothly.
Moving In When moving heavy appliances (refrigerators, freezers, washers, and dryers), over your new vinyl, wood or laminate floor, take care not to scratch or gouge the surface. Never slide an appliance over the floor without first laying carpet remnants or a similar material underneath it. Carpet scraps may be used to slide appliances only with the soft side down. Slide the appliance into place, then tip it and remove the carpet. Some other suggestions are: :::
Protect your exterior deck and stairway with plywood, canvas, or some such material when moving in. This will protect the surface against the scraping, gouging, and soiling that results from heavy objects and handcarts.
Use floor protectors on legs of furniture to minimize scratches and indentations. ::: Wipe the black printing and excess dirt from your new vinyl floor with a sponge or mop. :::
Do not scrub or wash the floor for at least another five days.
:::
Soak Window labels in water to remove them. Do not use a razor. Razor blades will
:::
Residue from the sheetrock application is water soluble. So you can remove this residue
scratch your glass. The scratches may not always be apparent, but you’ll notice them when the sun shines through the window. with a damp sponge. Do not use a scraper.
Open your foundation vents if they are not already open. ::: Do not use abrasive cleaners on fiberglass products, such as your shower or bath tub surround. :::
There are many liquid cleansers available for use on fiberglass. Wipe cabinetry and other woodwork with furniture polish.
:::
Before turning on the breaker switch to your water heater, ensure that the water
:::
In the future, always ventilate your bathroom during and for some time after
supply has been turned on first and that the heater is full. showering, and leave the door or curtains open to allow the tub or shower to dry.
Drying and Movement Your house and the ground it is placed upon will continue to release latent moisture for some time after completion. Lumber will contract and move slightly during this process and the ground of your house will compress and dry. Shrinkage will occur to some degree, and that is quite normal; it happens on every house. As a result, you may experience some cracks in your sheetrock which you can simply spackle and paint over.
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Foundation Vents If you have covers for your foundation vents, do so only in sub-freezing weather. Ventilation under your house is necessary to prevent dry rot, fungi growth and other damage.
Storm Windows and Doors Exterior house components (such as windows, patio doors, entry doors, overhead garage door, dryer, roof and fan vents, roofing, etc.) are not waterproof. They are weather resistant, and at some level of adverse conditions, water and/or air can and will penetrate them. If your property is in an area susceptible to adverse weather conditions (coast, gorge, etc.), beware of this and mitigate the effects when selecting a floor plan and siting the house on your land. Incorporate wind screens and diverters (trees, shrubs, fencing, outbuildings, walls, berms, etc.) into the landscaping and grading. If necessary, install storm windows and doors.
Repair During construction, never repair any Adair provided work or material other than as addressed in this and other documents pertaining to this project. After the completion of Adair’s work, never make any repairs to your house under the premise that Adair will pay for it later. Adair will not pay for any repairs or for work/materials unless agreed to in writing, in advance. During construction, you should communicate with your superintendent and upon home completion, you should communicate with the Customer Care Department.
Skylight Maintenance Skylights are weather resistant, not waterproof! If your house includes a skylight, keep in mind that they are prone to leak if: your house is in a high wind area; snow/ice builds up around them (ice damming); there is a buildup of leaves, pine needles and other debris around them. Keep the area around the skylight (and other objects on the roof such as vents and valleys) free of anything that will dam-up, retain or restrict the immediate drainage of water. Otherwise, the flashing will become ineffective.
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EXCAVATION GUIDE In this section, we will provide you with general information regarding Site Preparation & Excavation. Please note that this can vary based on your jurisdiction and specific project. Clear communication with your excavator and superintendent will help ensure you are taking the right steps.
SITE PREPARATION TIPS Before starting site preparation the following should be addressed: Confirm with your lender that your financing is complete (if applicable). All necessary permits have been issued from your local jurisdiction for the project. All necessary utility services will be available and the costs for bringing them to your new house. This includes such items as electric, water, sewage disposal, gas, telephone, and cable TV. All the necessary bids from licensed, bonded and insured contractors are complete. It is recommended that you obtain three written bids on every item you plan to employ others to perform. All required soil, draining, dust mitigation is in place.
SELECTING AN EXCAVATOR The excavator should be familiar with the climate, soils, and the building, plumbing, and sanitation codes of your area. Additionally, this person must have the expertise, among other things, to: :::
Establish in advance, all the necessary grades of your site (excavation, backfill, driveway, sewage
:::
Know the depth required of the foundation, its backfill, final grade and other requirements
disposal, rain-drain, natural drainage, etc.) to ensure that all code and drainage requirements are met. of the building codes. Excavate for a “stepped” foundation if required of your site.
Be capable of excavating your site to within 3” of level. ::: Provide aggregate “all weather” surface layer over excavated area. :::
Hire a professional excavator who is licensed and bonded. Ask for multiple references.
Excavation for the House The use of the term excavation refers to the preparation of an area on which the foundation will be placed. The most common type of preparation is a dig out. Another type of preparation is the construction of a built-up, non compressible pad.” Confirm the requirements of your site with your superintendent before meeting with your professional excavator. The Building Department will expect that the location of the foundation matches the plot plan provided at the time of permits.
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EXCAVATION GUIDE
The diagram is a sample dig out showing the foundation footprint of a generic house and garage. Be certain to review this with your excavator in advance of any work to avoid costly mistakes and project delays. If your home order includes a porch roof resting on posts, the excavated area must be enlarged so that the porch area is included into the excavated area for the house’s foundation at the same elevation grade as the rest of the foundation dig out. This includes the safe work area of 2 feet on all sides of this area, as well. Before your excavator removes his equipment from your site, re-stake and square the house within the prepared area with him to make sure the dig out is of adequate size for the house and a safe work area around it has been provided. Also, check the site levelness to ensure no additional preparation is required. On some sloping properties a foundation must be stepped (two or more levels) if an area-grade (creating a flat platform) is not a better option. If you and your excavator decide to prepare a stepped excavation for a stepped foundation or basement. Excavation must be within 3” of level throughout the area of the house as well as the garage footings. Direct your excavator to contact your Pro Team for additional instructions before they begin work on a stepped foundation. With a stepped foundation you may need to plan for additional fees. To ensure a square foundation, measure the diagonals from point A to point B, and from point C to point D. Adjust the house corner stakes until these two distances are equal.
House Area Dig Out The excavation should be over dug on all sides by 2’ to allow safe working access around the foundation. (Example: 36’ x 48’ house = 40’ x 52’ excavation.) All organic material (vegetation & roots) must be removed down to native hardpan soil. Any fill added must be compacted. A Geo-tech report may be required. To promote proper underfloor drainage and provide an all weather working surface, provide a one inch to three inch layer of compacted material across your excavated pad and Provide a low point drain for water to move from the dig out
Garage Area Dig Out Some excavators will only dig the perimeter of the foundation around the garage. To allow room to set the forms, the excavation should extend a minimum of 2’ from the centerline of the foundation to the undisturbed floor area. At the floor area, remove the organic material and any loose dirt, otherwise, leave the garage floor area undisturbed. (By doing so, additional rockfill at an extra charge will be avoided.) If the entire area of the garage floor is excavated (removed), or if a pad is constructed for the house, it will be necessary to purchase additional fill material to ensure proper garage floor elevation/grade.
Cold Weather and Frozen Ground Frozen ground can cause delays with your dig out. When dealing with delays regarding frozen ground, communicate with your superintendent to make alternate arrangements.
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EXCAVATION GUIDE
Grades and Drainage There are multiple facets of grade and drainage to consider. Those include the following:
excavated grade of the foundation ::: sewer ::: rain-drains (if applicable in your area) ::: surface water run-off, etc :::
These all give consideration to the surrounding grades such as a culvert, roadway, driveway, neighboring property, ditch, public sewer line, private septic system, etc. Code requires a backfill down-slope away from the foundation that extends at least 10’ from the structure on all sides.
Foundation Height and Design Typically, a foundation will have a 6 to 8 inch high footing and an approximate 24 inch tall foundation wall on top of the footing. The concrete part of the foundation wall should not exceed 48” in height without specific engineering. Plan your foundation so that backfill remains 12” below the top of the concrete portion of the foundation wall. This will ensure that the vents will not get covered by backfill material and allow for proper down-sloping backfill.
Prevent Delays: Notify your Adair Homes Construction Team if there are any changes to grade.
Site Grade Analysis Before any work is done, definitive grades must first be established for the site preparation which allows for:
The backfill to be placed 8” below the bottom of the siding. ::: The backfill to slope down and away from the structure for 10’ in all directions. ::: The backfill to be installed above the footing at a level required by local building codes. ::: The surface water to drain away from the house to a positive outfall. ::: The sewer line from the house to be installed under the footing and maintain a gravity :::
flow to the disposal system. (If there is an existing septic system the tank inlet must be exposed and the elevation of the inlet to the tank must be factored into what grade is established for the footings of the house.)
The rain-drain (gutters & downspouts) system to maintain a gravity flow to a positive outfall. ::: The driveway grade not to exceed 9% and for the driveway to drain away from the house. :::
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EXCAVATION GUIDE
The ability to drain a crawlspace (pipe under footing) to a positive outfall. ::: The house excavation or pad to be on stable ground (with no loose fill). ::: Typical backfilling without the need for retaining walls. :::
For some properties, it is necessary to construct an elevated pad for the foundation to avoid high water tables, hydrostatic pressure, poor soil conditions. Before you start digging check with your jurisdiction to understand any unique site requirements that may pertain to your piece of land.
Area Grading Area grading is the general leveling of the total building site (also referred to as the creation of a platform) before the excavation is completed. This is typically done on certain sloping properties to reduce the amount of grade variation in the area of the house, which in turn, may eliminate foundation steps. Area grading can also create a more usable yard around the house. Area grading needs to be at a minimum 10’ larger than the structure in all directions. If you are considering not area grading your property, please be certain to connect with your superintendent. Your team will work with you to help you avoid unnecessary costs, delays, and any other potential issues.
Site Stability The site preparation must be on ground which has the stability to support the structure and will not shift or slide. No loose fill or ground is to be within the excavation. If soft ground is encountered, it must be removed and replaced with a non-compressible fill. The site must be drained if it is unreasonably wet. This may require installation of a curtain, french drain, or other accommodations.
Erosion Control Depending on the size, nature, and topography of your site, as well as local requirements, you may be required to provide erosion control measures. This can include straw bales, bio-bags, and silt fencing to name a few of the most common. These are placed to retain and control run-off of mud and soil contaminated water. Check if your local jurisdiction requires an erosion plan. If one is required, the use of a professional is suggested to ensure the plan is adequate for the permit submission. Ask your Pre-Construction Administrator for a recommendation.
An example of silt fence in place from a homeowner site. The silt fence is designed to retain the soil and prevent possible contamination of nearby water.
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EXCAVATION GUIDE
The Excavation, as Applicable to the Site The excavation must conform to the following specifications and recommendations, plus code and any other local requirements:
Excavation over dug by 2’ beyond the home envelope in all directions. ::: Excavated to within 3” of level or per Adair Foundation Plan. ::: Install an all weather working surface. ::: Remove all vegetation, including roots. ::: Remove topsoil and place aside for replacement after backfill during the final grading process. ::: Excavation must be on stable ground. ::: All loose dirt and/or fill must be removed. ::: If fill will be used, it must be non-compressible material and compacted as :::
required by the local building department or code.
Spoils from the excavation should be placed away from the excavation. ::: Divert water away from the excavation; provide an outflow in the excavation :::
to prevent water accumulation.
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If the excavation must be held high or a pad constructed due to water or other
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If the installation of a curtain or french drain is necessary to divert surface water,
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There should be no obstructions (trees, limbs, wires, etc.) next to or above the
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If steps are required due to grade variation; each step should be within 3” of level.
conditions, which may require fill to be placed, notify the excavator. the excavator will notify you. building site that would interfere with building processes. Steps should never be placed in an area that would interfere with interior pier pads or other support footings. Since there are so many different possible configurations for how a stepped excavation may be done we recommend contacting your superintendent prior to excavation.
Hard-pan and Rocky Sites If the prepared excavation/building pad is hard and/or rocky to a point that will not allow for someone to readily (with reasonable ease) dig a plumbing line access trench under the foundation as deep as 20 inches, the excavator is to do so with a narrow profile (12 inch) “bucket,” and to leave the loose fill in the trench. On deep frost-line sites, contact your superintendent for the required trench depth.
Backfill Install the backfill after the foundation is poured and before the framing materials are delivered. Spread the topsoil on top of the backfill. General rule of thumb — Backfill must slope down and away from the house for 10’ in all directions and provide a positive outfall for water drainage. Backfill must cover the footings to a height defined by code, yet it cannot be installed closer than 8” below the bottom of the siding (12” below top of foundation wall). If your site has a specific approved drainage plan, please follow those requirements. If your home site is in Arizona please contact your site superintendent for post tension slab backfill requirements.
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RAIN DRAIN SYSTEM GUIDE If you purchased and your jurisdiction requires that you install a drain system to collect the run-off from the roof gutters/downspouts to a positive outfall such as a street gutter or drainage ditch, please see the following tips.
Some homeowners prefer to install the drain line at the footings (only) before the backfilling Never connect a rain-drain system into a footing drain system, sewer line, or septic system.
Water must not be allowed to saturate the ground around the foundation of your house where it will migrate under the house (crawl-space) and promote mold growth and other problems that the plastic ground cover and vents cannot prevent. It is imperative that the ground around the exterior of your house/garage slopes downward and away from the foundation for at least ten feet on all sides and that the gutters/downspouts are connected to a drainpipe(s) that is extended to a positive outflow such as a drainage ditch or street gutter. Please remember to call for and obtain inspection approvals before you cover your low point and rain-drains. (See “Gutters and Downspouts”).
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SEWER OR SEPTIC SYSTEM GUIDE If your property will be serviced by a private sewage disposal system (such as a septic system), obtain the permit from your local Department of Sanitation (To avoid damage and/or conflict with the grades of the waste line from the house, do not install any system until the rough plumbing on your house has been completed.) You may see the house sewer stub under or through your footing/stem wall. If the site requires that it be raised or if a pump system will be necessary and wiring will be required, contact Adair and arrange for one or both of these items. If your private system is already in place, rope it off to ensure that trucks do not drive in that area. Additionally, verify that the grade* from the house to the system inlet is sufficient to maintain a gravity flow. *Assume the “grade” for the stub-out at the house to be 5” below the excavated grade.
If your private system is to be installed on a higher grade than the waste line stub-out from your house, it will be necessary for your system installer to also provide an electric-powered pump system. If you expect the power to come from your house, make written arrangements with Adair for the additional septic circuit.
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PERMANENT & TEMPORARY POWER GUIDE At any time you have questions about the planning and implementing of your power service, contact your local PUD/power provider. They will be able to help determine where power is coming from, if a transformer is needed and whether the service is overhead or underground. Temporary power for construction should be installed within 50’ of the house. It should have two 110v (20 amp ) and one 220v (30 amp) circuits. The local PUD/power provider will be able to give you specifics on their requirements for the set-up, permits and fees associated with the temporary service. Circuit Breakers need to be accessible to reset in case it is. is “tripped” during constructionPermanent power will be installed to the house once the internal wiring is complete and inspections are passed
Permanent Power It is important that you have the permanent power connected to your house as soon as the rough wiring has been completed, inspected, and approved. Your local electric company may require several weeks advance notice to do this work. (In many areas, the electric company will not accept a permanent service connection order until after the inspections are done, approved and notice posted.) It is critical that the heating system in your house is functioning before the sheetrock is applied, as heat is needed for drying.
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PERMANENT & TEMPORARY WATER GUIDE Running water (pressurized) must be available on the job site throughout entire construction processes. If your property is served by a public or community system, make arrangements for the meter to be installed, and then install a “standpipe” (w/faucet). If you have a well, install your pump (it can be temporarily wired to the electric service pole) and a faucet. If you plan to use water from a nearby building or neighbor, the arrangement must be reliable and irrevocable. The source must be accessible for turning the water on and off, clearly marked, and hoses must be provided.
Protect the standpipe, faucet, and other elements of your water system from freezing.
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DRIVEWAY/ACCESS GUIDE An “all-weather” driveway is required from the public road to within 2’ of the house. A substantial roadway is critical to your project! This driveway must remain clear at all times during the course of construction. This driveway is typically installed by your excavator, and it must be installed to guarantee the safe access and egress of extremely heavy (80,000#) and large (long, high, and wide) vehicles, regardless of the weather and ground conditions. A Turn-around Area may be needed if the driveway is long, curving or steep, making it difficult for large equipment to be readily and safely backed out of the site.
Other Driveway Specifications Are: :::
Minimum driveway clearances: overhead – 15’ width – 12’, expanded on curves (The radius at
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Remove vegetation and loose dirt, then “crown” the roadbed. Provide drainage ditches/swales
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Use reasonably clean, large, pit-run rock (laid approx. 6”-8” thick) for the “base.” The driveway
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If driveway is on a slope, top-dress the base rock with clean, crushed “fines” (such as 1⁄2” minus)
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Install a driveway “apron” at the public road large enough for large trucks to make the turn
curves must accommodate trucks up to 50 feet long so the roadway must be wider at curves). where necessary to ensure driveway remains firm. must support 80,000 lb. vehicles. to “lock” the base rock in place. without going off the roadbed.
Install a culvert at public roadway and other locations if/as required. ::: Obtain a driveway/culvert permit if/as required. ::: Verify weight limitations on any bridge. :::
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PROPERTY GUIDE Corner Irons Ensure that the corner irons of your property are in place and clearly marked with bright nylon ribbon, and with line-of-sight (clear brush, etc.) between the irons. The building official (and some lenders) requires this to facilitate their inspections at the time the foundation is to be poured. It is critical that these irons are accurate! Note: This may not be required on all corners of extremely large land parcels. If your property is large, we suggest you check with your lender and local building department to determine their requirements. A Survey may be required if property line locations or jurisdictional setbacks are questionable in relationship to the foundation location.
Vertical and Lateral Clearance The roof trusses will be placed on top of the house/garage walls by a crane. Remove trees, wires or other items which will either be an obstruction or cause your site to be unsafe. No trees, buildings or other objects should be within 5’ of the structure.
Concrete Foundations and Floor Levels Floor levels, foundation wall height/steps and garage slab height will be determined at the site inspection with your superintendent. Any additional foundation or floor height issues should be addressed and resolved prior to any foundation being poured. It is important that you understand the final floor height based on your excavation to ensure a successful project.
House Stakes in Excavation When your excavation has been completed, ask your excavator to place stakes at all corners of your house and garage within the excavation. (The foundation subcontractor will “square” them before the pour.) Verify that the structure location does not violate local code “setback” requirements, and that the work is consistent with the Plot Plan you provided. A survey or hub and tack may be required in certain situations.
Property Address Post your property address (required by building department) at your driveway entrance. If you do not already have an address you will need to check with your jurisdiction to obtain one by application or they may assign one when building permits are issued.. A home-made sign with large letters will suffice for the construction process. Secure the sign so it cannot be knocked down easily.
Covenants, Restrictions and Special Code Requirements Review the Title Insurance on your property and check with the local Building Department to determine if any special covenants, restrictions, or special requirements (such as a building height limit, specific roofing or siding products, flood-plain, floor height, etc) will be required on your home.
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PERMITS & INSPECTIONS GUIDE You have agreed to supply the funds for all permits and obtain the permits that apply to work you will perform. Some examples of these permits are; building, plumbing, mechanical, electrical, septic, well, road access, storm water and draining, dust control, etc. Please note that all permits required will be site specific and based on your jurisdiction’s requirements. Adair will assist with documentation that applies to Adair’s work and help you submit for those permits. This is usually done after the project financing has been committed. If you are interested in having the permits applied for before that point, please contact the PreConstruction Administrator.
In most cases, we will leave a set of permit plans on your site which have been approved by the building department. They must remain there for inspection purposes. The permit plans must be kept clean and dry throughout the build process. If, by chance, permit plans are left exposed to weather, please put them in a zip lock plastic bag and notify your Construction Team.
Government Inspections During construction of your house, a number of inspections are required to take place. These inspections are defined by the building codes and, if your house is financed by a mortgage, by your lender as well. Adair will call for the inspections that relate to the work or materials we provide; you will need to call for the inspections that relate to the work or materials you provide.
How an Inspection Typically Works When a milestone in construction is reached, we must then wait until the inspector makes the inspection and posts the inspection notice in the house. That inspection report may approve the work to date, or it may require corrective work. If the latter, the adjustments will be made and a re-inspection process must then take place. It is somewhat typical to see failed inspections during certain phases of construction and we will do all that we can to not to let this impact your timeline. Sometimes a failed inspection requires corrections and sometimes it will require additional information provided to the local jurisdiction. Please know that we are taking the appropriate steps to resolve the issue and your Superintendent is also happy to review it with you.
You can help us to speed construction along during the inspection process: When you see a posted inspection notice in your house, you can take a picture and send it to your superintendent. By providing us with this information, you will help us to promptly make corrections or continue with construction. You may also email Adair a copy of a report or call us.
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EXTERIOR PAINTING GUIDE PART 1 1. Prepare the Area Lightly using a putty knife, remove any loose dirt, dust, and debris. Then use a stiff brush to clean the area and prepare the surface so that the caulking will adhere better.
Paint crews do not generally caulk your home—this must be negotiated.
2. Fill Deep Cracks If the crack is deep, pack it using filler such as foam rope (backing rod), pushing it deeply into the void. Don’t use newspaper as filler; if it becomes wet, it will rot. Avoid steel wool, too, because if that get wet, it will rust and the water running from it can streak the paint or finish on the house. Most home centers sell backing rod or small, inexpensive bags of material to use as filler.
3. Prepare the Cartridge Using a utility knife, cut the tip of the cartridge at about a 45-degree angle, making a tapered point-small at the tip and larger at the base. The farther down the tip of the cartridge that you cut, the wider the opening will be. Try to cut a point that will produce a bead of caulk to match the size of the joint to be filled. If you’re caulking several joints, figure an average for the crack widths and cut the nozzle accordingly. Some caulking manufacturers stamp a graduated scale on the plastic nozzle to help you cut it properly. For example, if you want to fill cracks that average 1⁄4-inch-wide, cut the nozzle at the “1/4’ marking. Look very closely; the markings can be hard to see. Once the nozzle is cut, puncture the seal within the cartridge by feeding a 20d nail down into the nozzle. You need to break this seal so that the caulk will come out.
4. Load the Cartridge into the Gun Pull back the plunger of the cartridge gun and insert the cartridge into the gun. To operate the caulking gun, turn the plunger in back of the cartridge to engage the trigger mechanism, and then squeeze the trigger to release the caulk.
5. Apply the Caulk Hold the caulking gun at about a 45-degree angle to the joint being filled, and then pull the gun toward you, sliding the tip along the crack you’re filling and pressing the trigger at the same time to release a steady flow of caulk. The bead of caulk should fill the gap and be wide enough to span both surfaces. When you’re nearing the of the run release the pressure on the trigger. As you work, you’ll get the hang of the speed at which you need to move the caulking gun in relation to the amount of caulk coming out of the nozzle. If you pull the gun too slowly down the crack, too much caulk will enter the joint. If you move too quickly, the bead of caulk will be too thin to completely fill the joint. When you’re at a stopping point in the job, turn the plunger at the back of the caulking gun. This releases the pressure so that the caulk won’t ooze out of the nozzle and make a mess.
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EXTERIOR PAINTING GUIDE
6. Smooth the Surface If the surface of the caulk comes out rough and uneven, it’s a simple step to smooth things out. You can use your finger or, if you prefer, a rounded, wooden craft stick (or the stick from an ice cream bar). Moisten either of these tools—your finger or the stick—with water; then lightly run it along the surface of the caulk. The goal here is to create a concave joint-something that will fill the crack, look attractive, but not be so concave as to trap excessive moisture, which would hasten the decay of the caulk. Use a cloth to wipe the excess caulk off your finger and re-wet your finger or stick, as needed. Use plenty of water and work slowly. Clean up any mess or drips using the solvent recommended by the manufacturer of the caulk.
7. Store the Leftover Caulk If there is any caulk left in the cartridge after you have finished the project (you’ll know by how far the plunger has gone down into the cartridge), plug the tip of the nozzle using a 20d nail or golf tee to keep the caulk fresh for the next project.
8. Allow the Caulk to Dry and Cure Use only paintable caulk. Give it enough time to dry enough to form a seal or light “skin” on the surface. This is usually noted on the package directions. When the caulk is fully cured, it means it has become stable and will no longer shrink.
PART 2: APPLICATION Once the siding application has been completed, and the materials are dry and properly prepared, you can proceed with the exterior painting. Note: Your lender may require that all painting is completed before you are allowed to move into your new house, so paint it as soon as you can. Spraying is the quickest and easiest method of painting the exterior. Many paint stores rent airless sprayers and provide instructions to the amateur painter. Never spray when there is any wind. Wood along the edge of the roofing and around windows should be painted with a brush to avoid over spray.
Roller and brush application. Roll against the texture of the siding on the first coat and with the grain on the second. You will want to know how much paint to buy. Simply take your house plan to your paint supplier, and they will calculate the quantity. They can also give you information on the primers, sealers, and the number of coats to apply. Inappropriate paint products may not adhere and may void the warranty on your siding.
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EXTERIOR PAINTING GUIDE
All surfaces must be clean and dry before the application of paint. New construction materials often have mud, sawdust, and other particles to be removed. Important Note: If you hire a painter, be certain that Phase #2 is included in their work description for the exterior painting and price unless you are prepared to perform Phase #2 yourself. It is typical in residential construction that the painter performs their work in two phases: ::: Phase #1 is when the majority of surfaces have been constructed (exterior example: performing Parts 1 and 2 above after the house is framed and sided and all utility rough-ins have been completed). :::
Phase #2 takes place after completion of all construction to cover all remaining or additional surfaces, repairs damage or replacements and so forth (such as caulking separation due to expansion, contraction or dissipation of sealants exterior door installation, siding, corner board or trim repairs, etc.) Phase #2 will require additional exterior and interior paint so be certain to save some for this!
Warning: Do not paint the weather stripping!
Exterior and Other Entry Doors The standard insulated exterior door(s) are primed by the manufacturer. Exterior doors are constructed with a fiberglass “skin.” The glass insert frames in doors with glass are made of plastic. Be sure to select a paint which is compatible with these materials. If the manufacturer has provided painting instructions with the door, follow those instructions. Also, screw-hole plugs are supplied with the door for the glass frames. The plugs should be installed by you prior to painting the door. If you have purchased an upgraded door, please refer to specific instructions for painting and/or stain. If shutters are included in your home, they are provided to you by Adair. It is your responsibility to paint and install after siding is painted. Important: Do not allow paint to get on the heaters or heating ventilation!
Overhead Garage Door The doors Adair supplies are made of metal. Metal doors are factory primed white when delivered. Follow the manufacturer’s painting instructions on the door. A good paint job is necessary to protect the wood products from moisture. Otherwise, you can expect swelling and warping. If you provide a first-class, hand-painted job on your house, it will last many years. Use quality paint. Be sure to paint the bottom edge of your siding. And remember this: Once you paint your foundation, you will always paint your foundation! Since painting the concrete is unnecessary, it may be easier to leave it unpainted.
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INTERIOR PAINTING GUIDE Once the sheetrock and texture is completely dry, you can proceed with the interior painting. Your superintendent will contact you when they know the projected completion of the sheetrock. At that time your painting program will be discussed with you and if you are painting, we will provide you ample time for painting and drying. All interior painting is to be done before any cabinets and other products are delivered in your house.
For our paint grade millwork, Adair highly suggests you hire a professional painter. Painting paint grade trim with a roller or paint brush is typically not a professional application method. If you have agreed to paint it as part of your participation, you should plan to tape-off the walls, caulk, putty and paint the millwork after installation. Millwork is not allowed to be painted prior to installation. Please work with your Construction Team to determine the appropriate time to paint your millwork. If you hire a painter, be certain that touch-up is included in their bid for interior and exterior painting unless you are prepared to perform the touch-up work yourself. There will be a need for touch up with all construction.
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HELPFUL ADAIR GUIDE SITE CHANGES If you wish to change any item on your plot plan—such as: the location of the house on the site, the location of the well, drain field, power, roadway, septic tank, etc.—be sure to consult with Adair to ensure your plans can be adjusted.
ADAIR TRADE PARTNERS The industry professionals (or tradespersons) at your home receive direction from Adair outlining the scope of what they are to do. (They also perform to the standards their particular trade calls for.) To prevent confusion and limit mistakes, they are also asked by Adair not to take instructions from other sources. So, please direct any concerns and questions directly to your superintendent. For insurance and safety reasons, trade partners may request that you not be in the house while they are working. Please be understanding if this should occur. Their motive is intended to be protective, not offensive.
YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND ADDRESS In the event you change your address, email or phone number during the course of construction, please notify your local Adair office of this change. At times, we have a need to contact you on pertinent matters, so it is important for us to have current, accurate information.
MATERIAL AND SITE PROTECTION Theft of materials and vandalism on your property is always possible, and we urge you to do what you can to prevent it. Your insurance must cover unattached building materials. If you encounter any theft or damage, file a claim with your insurance company. We strongly urge you to remove any personal items of value from the site and to completely secure all buildings on your site as well. Once we deliver the finish materials to your house (cabinets, doors, appliances, carpeting, trim, fixtures, etc.), your house must remain completely locked. Always report unsecured doors and windows to your Construction superintendent.
UTILITIES You have agreed to provide and pay for utility services on your property (water, power, etc.) during the course of construction. It is impossible to build without them. Power is needed to operate saws, compressors, and other equipment. Water is needed to pour concrete floors, to pressure-test the plumbing lines, and for the sheetrock application.
A few other utility tips are: ::: If your water is not safe to drink, post a sign at the water source that points this out. ::: We must have perpetual access to fuses/breakers for power sources. Therefore, fuses/breakers in a locked area are not acceptable.
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HELPFUL ADAIR GUIDE
::: If there are special instructions required to draw water from your well, clearly post them. ::: If water is to come from another building (house, shed, etc.), post a sign to alert the tradespeople to its location. ::: Post a sign concerning any special utility circumstances on your site. ::: If any utility (septic tank, drain field, well, transformer, etc.) is located in an area around the house where a truck can be driven (trucks do not necessarily stay on roadways), install and maintain barriers (such as a cluster of stakes with ribbons) to protect these areas.
CUSTOMER CARE It is our privilege to partner with you on this joint homebuilding journey. Your local Pro Team is available and at your disposal on the phone, via email, on your site, and at the branch. Connect with your team throughout your build and after you move-in, because building a house with Adair should be as much about value, as it is a rewarding experience. As part of our commitment to providing you with a great customer experience, we have a dedicated Customer Care Team.
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