Vermont Sports September, 2018

VT’S TOUR DE FRANCE RIDER | NEW 4-SEASON HUTS | GUT HEALTH FOR ATHLETES

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SEPTEMBER 2018

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EPIC HIKES

LESSONS

FROM THE AT THE 5-SUMMIT

Challenge EXPERTS' GEAR PICKS

Be first down the mountain again.

BE YOU AGAIN. THE RIGHT SPORTS MEDICINE PHYSICIAN CAN HELP. Our physicians provide comprehensive sports medicine care, no matter how complex the injury. Patients receive a course of treatment that’s ideally suited for them, built around the most advanced options available—whether operative, non-operative or a combination of both. So, if you live in the Burlington area, make an appointment with The University of Vermont Health Network’s sports medicine specialists at The UVM Medical Center. To make an appointment, call (802) 448-5445.

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Wandering

Taking it to the trail.

INSERTION DATE May 2017 through OUTDOOR MAGAZINE NEW ENGLAND’S March/April 2018

7 Great Outdoors

A New Long Trail Record

PUB(S) Vermont Sports MagON THE COVER: BUILT AT 100% TRIM 10" x 12.75"

How a triathlete broke the fastest known time record.

Camille, Leah and Emily Johnson hike the Long Trail. Photo by Brian Mohr/EmberPhoto

9

Featured Athlete

Meet the Tour de France rider from Peacham, Vt.

LIVE 8" x 10.75"

12 Trail Tales

PUBLISHER

BLEED Angelo Lynn - publisher@vtsports.com

The Vermont 5

.125"

EDITOR/CO-PUBLISHER 4C

Could you hike these five 4,000-footers in a day?

Abagael Giles CALL QUESTIONS abagael@vtsports.com Courtney Haupt

15

Lisa Lynn - lisa.lynn@vtsports.com COLOR

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Feature

Outposts in the Wild

251.476.2507

EDITORIAL INTERN

There are four new hidden huts waiting to be discovered.

Rylee Ewald editor@vtsports.com

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

18

Shawn Braley

Feature

Lessons from the Appalachian Trail

MEDICAL ADVISORY BOARD

Dr. Nathan Endres, Dr. David Lisle, Dr. James Slauterbeck —University of Vermont Robert Larner College of Medicine; Orthopaedics and Rehabilitation; Jamie Sheahan, M.S., R.D.

Hiking 1,167 miles teaches you a few things, Evan Johnson discovered.

CONTRIBUTORS

Evan Johnson, Brian Mohr, Phyl Newbeck, Leath Tonino

24

ADVERTISING MANAGER

Feature

Game-Changing Hiking Gear

Christy Lynn | (802) 388-4944 ads@vtsports.com

We asked 8 experts what gear changed their backing game.

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34 Endgame

SUBSCRIPTIONS, PRINTING & DISTRIBUTION

Migrations

Lisa Razo - lisar@addisonindependent.com

Leath Tonino traces the paths of eagles on the Connecticut River.

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Assistant editor Abagael Giles out on the Long Trail. For her favorite piece of gear, see page 26. Photo: Levi Keszey

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 3

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Evan Johnson, savoring solitude in an Appalachian Trail cabin in Pennsylvania. Photo by Evan Johnson

T

here is something buried in our

Trail. He proposed the trail in 1921 and later

human DNA that compels us to

went on to found the Wilderness Society.

wander. Come fall or spring we get

Thanks to his foresight ( and the foresight

restless. We pile on the packs and set off on

of James Taylor, the assistant headmaster

the trail seeking something. Not warmer

at Vermont Academy in Saxton’s River who

weather or richer foraging, but the things

conceived of the Long Trail in 1909), these

our society now lacks the most, intangibles

trails have become corridors of wilderness in

we have come to prize more than money:

an increasingly urbanized world.

A stretch of primeval forest. A sense of

discovery in a land that our great, great,

spectacular landscape, that green tunnel.

grandfathers explored. Solitude.

And it makes you forget about the challenges

So we fish out the heavier socks, recharge

you are facing,” Alyssa Godesky says about

the headlamps, load up the packs and dream

the Long Trail in our account of how she

of losing ourselves in a different place. For

broke the fastest known time for a woman to

Evan Johnson, a former staff writer and

end-to-end hike the trail this summer.

contributing editor to Vermont Sports, that

meant taking three months to hike half the

along the way. Abagael Giles, who joined

Appalachian Trail. Put off by the accounts

Vermont Sports this spring from The Sheet,

of crowds and seeking the solitude of the

in Mammoth Lakes, Calif., was lured back

woods, he opted to start in Harpers Ferry,

east in part by memories of being part of a

West Virginia when the snow was still on the

hut “croo” in the White Mountains. An avid

ground and hike north.

hiker, backpacker, fly-fisher and backcountry

Johnson found solitude: “I had some of

skier, she shares some of her newest hut

Pennsylvania’s best huts to myself” he writes

“finds” in "New Outposts in the Wild." She

in "Lessons from the Appalachian Trail." But

also talked with gear experts around the

many do not. From 1936 to 1969, there were

state to suss out what their favorite picks

records of only 59 people ever completing the

were for a backpacking trip.

whole trail, from Georgia to Maine. By 1980,

the number of 2,000-milers, as they became

the most about the backcountry of Vermont

known, had increased ten-fold. In 2017,

is contributing editor Leath Tonino. Tonino

some 1030 were recorded as thru-hiking

has hiked the length of the state, skied it,

end to end and, as the Appalachian Trail

biked it and paddled it. His essay on a trip

Conservancy’s Jordan Bowman reckons, “at

down the Connecticut River is in Endgame,

least 2,051 people hiked 1,000 miles or more

p. 34.

on the AT last year.”

him as he glides south, Leath is prone to

When forester Benton MacKaye first

dreamed up the Appalachian Trail it was from a perch in a tree on Vermont’s Long

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For others, the allure is the outposts

But perhaps the contributor who knows

Like the eagles he watches soaring above

migrations. After all, it’s in our DNA. — Lisa Lynn, Editor

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 5

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GREAT OUTDOORS

A NEW LONG TRAIL RECORD

PRO TRIATHLETE ALYSSA GODESKY JUST SHATTERED NIKKI KIMBALL’S RECORD.

BY LISA LYNN

A pro triathlete with some top international finishes and 30 Ironman races under her belt, Alyssa Godesky says setting the Long Trail fastest known time is the hardest thing she's done. Photo courtesy Alyssa Godesky

I

n the pre-dawn hours of July 31, pro

pack and a pair of lightweight hiking poles,

trailhead on the Appalachian Gap” she said,

Godesky booked a few AirBnBs and came to

triathlete Alyssa Godesky, 33, lay

she’d run and hiked her way across the

referring to Jonathan Basham who set the

Vermont from her home in Charlottesville,

back in a patch of ferns in the forest

Greens. Her pit crew met her at trailheads,

FKT for the Long Trail in 2009, completing

Virginia, to test run sections of the trail.

of southern Vermont and fell asleep. Her

feeding her and letting her sleep four hours

it (supported) in 4 days, 12 hours and 46

“It was so much harder than I’d imagined,”

legs were propped up and two people were

or so in her car and, one blissful night,

minutes. The woman’s record had been set

Godesky said. “I went back to my trainer

furiously bandaging the open blisters on

in a hotel outside of Killington. She went

by champion ultrarunner Nikki Kimball

and said, ‘I’m not sure I can do this.’ Her

her feet, but she was out cold. “Wake up!”

through five pairs of shoes (Altra Timp

when she ran the trail in five days, 7 hours

response was, ‘If that’s how you feel, that’s

they shouted, prodding her and shining a

IQs, Altra Superior 3.5s and Saucony

and 42 minutes in 2012.

why you should.’”

headlamp in her face. She finally did, got

Peregrines.) Wearing Injinji toe socks helped

After racing more than 30 Ironman-

Godesky admits it was the hardest

back on her feet and marched on.

with blisters. She ate like a fiend, downing

distance triathlons as a sponsored pro and

thing she has done. But, she adds, “It’s so

everything from Ensure on the trail to tater

three 100-milers (with a PR of 21:42), she

challenging and so rewarding. You get that

she saw the sign for the southern terminus of

tots at rest stops.

decided this year to train for something

in every section of trail. You’re faced with

the Long Trail. It was only then that she fully

After starting off in the pouring rain

different. “I had come to Vermont once

tough hiking but then with great views. Out

realized she had made her goal: she broke

(“the trail easily could have been a river,” she

in 2007 to run a race up Jay Peak and I

of nowhere you’re rewarded with beauty and

the fastest known time (FKT) for a woman

wrote) Godesky had made good time up and

remember thinking these trails were so

spectacular landscape, even if it’s looking

hiking the length of the trail.

over Jay Peak, Mount Mansfield, Mt. Mayo

much harder than anything I had ever seen. I

down the green tunnel at the trail ahead.

and Camel’s Hump meeting up with a small

loved it here — it was beautiful.”

It makes you forget about all the other the

earlier, Godesky had been 273 miles north

army of pacers.

challenges you are facing.”

near the Canadian border. Carrying little

“After the first two days I was at the same

watched the documentary about Nikki

more than a Camelbak ultralight hydration

spot that Jonathan had been, sleeping at the

Kimball’s FKT, “Finding Traction.” Last fall,

get some sleep.

The sun rose and a little after 7:00 a.m.,

Five days, two hours and 37 minutes

She had read about the Long Trail and

As for what’s next? She’s going to try to

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Is there a language barrier with so many nationalities on the team?

We’re a very international team. We hold a Swiss license which is emblematic since we have people from twelve different countries. English is the spoken language of the team and it is becoming the language of the peloton.

Most teams want riders to speak English but there are definitely some barriers and things get lost in translation. I speak French which helps but cycling is also a language onto itself.

Name: Ian Boswell Age: 27 Lives in: Peacham Family: Fiancée, Gretchen Kaija; parents, Grant and Dina; brother, Austin; step-siblings Gabe and Marissa Nehl.

Primary Sport: Cycling

Y

ou may not realize it but one of the fastest road bike racers in the world lives in Peacham.

Ian Bosworth, a native of Bend, Ore., moved to the tiny town his fiancée is from last spring. Boswell has raced the Giro d’Italia and the Vuelta a Espana.

This year Boswell completed the trilogy of professional cycling’s Grand Tours when he became one of the few Vermont residents to have ever ridden in the prestigious Tour de France. Competing for the Swiss-based team Katusha Alpecin, Boswell finished the 21-day race in 79th place. His highest placing was Stage 11 in the Alps when he crossed the line in 39th place.

How incredible was it to ride in the Tour de France this year?

It was really a dream come true. The Tour is what captures your imagination as a kid. Growing up in the Armstrong era with American dominance in the sport was instrumental in my getting interested in and pursuing cycling. It may be considered a foreign sport, but it’s one that Americans can do. I’ve done the Giro and the Vuelta, but the Tour de France is the pinnacle of the sport.

What was your best moment in the Tour?

My best moment was on Stage 19 in the Pyrenees. We were down to four riders out of our original eight and we were a bit on our back foot and hadn’t met our goals. It was the final day in the mountains and we still had the fitness and motivation to perform and we were trying to set up our leader, Ilnur Zakarin.

He ended up finishing tenth that day and ninth overall.

A long way from his home in Peacham, Ian Boswell rides in the 2018 Tour de France.

It’s interesting that you didn’t mention one of the days in the Alps when you had a higher finish.

Cycling is unique in that it’s a team sport raced by individuals. Only one rider gets the glory. My role was to support Ilnur.

His ninth-place finish is his result but it took our entire team. That also includes 15 to 16 staff members who serve as bus drivers, race directors, chefs, doctors, and massage therapists. It takes a whole team.

Photo by Jojo Harper

What led you to join Team Katusha Alpecin?

Sky was my first pro team and I spent five years there and learned a lot. Right now, they are the most successful Grand Tour team. I have a two-year contract with Katusha and one of the reasons I joined was so that I could make the Tour de France squad. It was becoming hard to make the Tour squad with Sky and after five years it was time for me to start somewhere new and redefine my goals and aspirations.

How do you stay fueled on the Tour?

Off the bike we eat a healthy, wholesome, balanced diet with an emphasis on carbs.

On the bike it’s mostly an electrolyte mix and energy gels. At the feed stops we get musettes filled with sticky rice balls, paninis and bananas, as well as two water bottles and a small can of Coke. Coca-Cola is heavily consumed in the Tour de France. The feed zone is a dangerous part of the race. You’d think they could come up with a better system, but it’s tradition. Ninety-nine percent of the time there are no problems but this year, my fellow American Lawson Craddock crashed in the feed zone on Stage One and rode the rest of the Tour with a fractured clavicle and facial lacerations. It’s a testament to the Tour and what it means to be a rider that he carried on. [Craddock finished last – earning “la lanterne rouge” – but used his ride to raise over $150,000 to rebuild a velodrome in Houston that had been destroyed by Hurricane Harvey].

Is it as crazy as it looks with the fans converging on the course on the mountain stages?

It is. There are so many people and some of the fans know they can get on television by running and wearing crazy suits. It’s almost become a show within a show. For all the close encounters that almost happen, it’s pretty phenomenal that there aren’t many injuries.

Do you think there is still doping in cycling?

I believe that cycling is a sport that has taken doping very seriously the last decade. There will always be people in any walk of life who try to cheat the system. I raced clean and I know what went into my preparation. I believe all the performances that I saw were done on a natural and honest level.

When did you start racing?

I started racing BMX bikes at eight and did my first road race at 12. I was really drawn to cycling after I won one of my first road races. I played all the traditional American sports and did some Nordic skiing and snowboarding, but at 18, I put it all aside and started focusing more on road cycling.

What was your best race result prior to the Tour?

Probably last year’s Tour of California where I finished third on one stage. It came at a point when I was transitioning from being a young and inexperienced rider to realizing I’m capable of competing. It was also nice to be on North American roads.

What brought you to Peacham?

Gretchen is from Redding, Vermont so we wanted to live in-state but find a place on our own. We looked at a lot of properties and liked this one so we moved here last May. We live in a 1785 farmhouse with an apple orchard, garden and greenhouse. I’m excited that on October 13 we’ll be putting on the Peacham Fall Fondo. A lot of people in the community didn’t understand what I was doing for a living when I moved here because this is an obscure career, but I’ve received a tremendous amount of support from neighbors. The community aspect is so important here. I can’t really sit on a board or a committee so the motivating factor for the Fondo is giving back to the community in a way that I can. All the money will go towards turning an unused tennis court into a four-season community pavilion.

— Phyl Newbeck

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 9

HEALTH Genomicist Lauren Petersen of Dartmouth-Hitchcock is also one of the top pro mountain bike racers in the Northeast.

Photo by Jeb Wallace-Brodeur

GUT CHECK CAN THE BACTERIA IN YOUR GUT MAKE YOU A FASTER

CYCLIST, BOOST YOUR ENDURANCE AS AN ULTRARUNNER OR IMPROVE YOUR RUGBY GAME?

BY JAMIE SHEAHAN, M.S., R.D.

E

“Within two months, Petersen was not only feeling better, she was racing better...It just so happened that the transplant she received was from a competitive cyclist.”

verybody poops. Sure, we don’t like

before. With little hope of improving

to talk about it (at least amongst

her

more refined company), but it’s a fact

treatments, Petersen offered herself up as

of life. Most people write it off as a necessary

a guinea pig in 2014 for a largely untested

bodily function that need not be discussed

procedure; a fecal transplant.

nor given much thought.

Not so for Lauren Petersen, a researcher

were remarkable. Within two months of

at Dartmouth-Hitchcock. Most Vermonters

the procedure, Petersen not only began

will know Petersen as the blazingly-fast

feeling better, she was racing better. It

mountain bike pro from the Upper Valley,

just so happens that the fecal transplant

the “queen of the East Coast” in enduro, who

Petersen received was from a competitive

has been a top podium finisher in events

cyclist and her interest was piqued.

such as the Clif Enduro East and Vittoria

Petersen conducted a pilot study, testing

Cup.

the gut microbiomes of 22 professional and

She’s been riding at an expert or pro

11 amateur competitive cyclists. Analysis

level for nearly two decades. But in scientific

revealed the cyclists with the highest

circles, Petersen is better known as the

training volume had a higher abundance

Dartmouth-Hitchcock,

founder of the Athlete Microbiome Project

of a specific strain of bacteria. This begged

the top-level cyclists tested had specific

and a genomicist who has dedicated herself

the question; could we create better

to studying the gut microbiology of athletes.

athletes by altering their gut microbiome?

After

being

diagnosed

with

Lyme

symptoms

through

conventional

The results of her last-resort treatment

Disease at age 11, Petersen exhausted all

THE SCOOP ON POOP

available medical options to address her

To understand why in the world anyone

debilitating symptoms. Multiple courses of

would ever agree to a fecal transplant we

broad spectrum antibiotics were ineffective

must first grasp what the gut microbiome

and left her feeling worse than she had

is and how it relates to the aforementioned

10 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

four letter word: poop.

Our gut microbiome consists of over 1,000 different species of bacteria that can (en masse) weigh in at around four pounds. About one-third of the microorganisms in our gut are common to most people, while the other twothirds are unique to each individual.

The bacteria in our gut play a role in

digestion and absorption, immune health,

body weight, disease risk and mental health among other things. The composition of our gut microbiome is determined by genetics, diet, lifestyle and medications.

By testing fecal samples (fancy wording for poop), researchers can determine the individual strains of bacteria that populate an individual’s gut. So what does our gut microbiome say about our athletic ability?

Researchers posit that the composition

of an athlete’s gut microbiome is different from that of a sedentary individual and evidence from fecal testing supports this.

As part of her work with the Athlete Microbiome

Project,

Petersen,

now

a postdoctoral fellow in pathology at

microorganisms

found

whereas

that

all

non-athletes

rarely harbored these particular strains.

The question then becomes which came first, the chicken or the egg. Does high level training induce changes in our gut microbiome or does the right mix of microorganisms predispose some to outperform others? Unfortunately we don’t

yet have the answer to this and due to the

complex nature of the gut microbiome it will

stratified 39 research subjects based on

or do those who have more diversity naturally

be extremely difficult to determine.

their fitness level. By measuring subjects’

end up being more athletically inclined?

Regardless, there is no question that our

VO2max, the maximum amount of oxygen

gut microbiome plays a role in our athletic

used, researchers found that those in

confounding variable is diet. One could argue

in

ability. It makes sense. Our body needs to

better shape also had more diverse gut

that fitter individuals tend to have healthier

closely with athletes to develop customized

convert the food we eat into fuel to power

microbiomes.

diets and thus have a healthier gut microbiome.

fueling plans to optimize their health

For now, answers are few as we await more

and performance. She is also an adjunct

research to determine if probiotics are the key

professor of sports nutrition at UVM. An

to athletic success or if it’s all just a load of

avid runner, Jamie has completed more than

crap.

20 marathons.

To address this issue another study

activity and the ability to do so is dependent

GUT CHECKS?

on our gut function.

But

BAD-ASS BACTERIA

the

question

remains:

did

ultramarathoners, for instance, experience

Although a relatively new area of study,

a change in their gut microbiome as a

Petersen’s pilot study is not the only one out

result of their training or were they simply

there.

drawn to such a sport because their gut

A team of Harvard researchers have

microbiome allowed them to excel?

been studying the gut microbiome of athletes

from a number of different sports including

looking for an extra edge are eager to

marathoners. In 2015, they tested the fecal

harness the potential of microorganisms to

samples of 20 athletes participating in

take their performance to the next level. In

the Boston Marathon. By testing samples

the future, that could lead some to opt for

from 20 runners one week prior to and one

elective fecal transplants from a high-level

week after the race they found that after

athlete “donor.”

completing a marathon the population of a

Despite the uncertainty, some athletes

Before you share on Facebook your

certain strain of bacteria spiked.

intentions of getting a fecal transplant,

know it isn’t as simple as calling up your

The microorganism in question works to

break down lactic acid, a byproduct of intense

physician for an appointment.

exercise that can promote fatigue and muscle

In 2013, the FDA classified fecal

soreness. By having more of these microbes

transplants as an Investigational New

available to breakdown the buildup of lactic

Drug.

acid, athletes would theoretically be able to

individuals in the United States can only

push themselves harder.

pursue such transplants as a treatment for

This

means

that

at

present

researchers,

Clostridium Difficile (C Diff). It remains to

Jonathan Scheiman, Ph.D. noted when he

be seen if the use of fecal transplants will be

presented his research: “The bugs in our

approved for additional medical conditions

gut affect our energy metabolism, making

let alone as an elective procedure.

One

of

the

Harvard

Sorry, I couldn’t help but squeeze in one

exercise lead to more diverse gut microbiomes

But that is not the only issue. Another

last pun.

As the Director of Nutrition at The Edge

4 WAYS

Burlington,

Jamie

Sheahan

works

TO BUILD A BETTER MICROBIOME

Whether probiotics are the next big performance enhancing supplement or not, there is no question a healthy gut microbiome is important for our overall wellbeing. What can you do (short of a fecal transplant) to improve your gut flora? Here are some easy answers.

LOAD UP GOOD BACTERIA The number one thing you can do to establish a healthy population of bacteria in your gut is to simply eat said healthy bacteria. Fermented foods are rich in a range of probiotics and can easily be incorporated into your diet. Yogurt, kefir, kombucha, kim-chi, miso and sauerkraut all contain a range of bacteria species that have been shown to improve digestive and immune health.

FEED YOUR GUT Once you have good bacteria in your system, the next thing you must do is feed them. That’s right, bacteria,

it easier to break down carbohydrates,

Fecal transplants might sound like

just like any other living thing, need food to survive.

protein and fiber. They are also involved in

the type of science dreamed up in Dr.

Probiotics thrive on what is referred to as prebiotics.

inflammation and neurological function. So

Frankenstein’s laboratory and certainly

Prebiotic foods are those high in a particular type of

perhaps the microbiome could be relevant

as stomach churning (pun intended).

fiber that probiotics feed off of. Foods rich in prebiotics

for applications in endurance, recovery and

However, the potential to improve not only

include dandelion greens, garlic, onions, asparagus,

maybe even mental toughness.”

our health, but also athletic performance

bananas, oats, barley and flax seeds, among others.

In another study of ultrarunners and

is a real possibility. Who knows, maybe we

Olympic rowers, researchers were able to

will wind up seeing professional athletes

KEEP THE BAD STUFF AT BAY

identify a higher prevalence of bacteria

auctioning off their “specimens” to the

Creating a healthy gut microbiome is not only about

that helps metabolize fiber and complex

highest bidder.

eating the right things, it also entails avoiding things that can fuel the growth of bad bacteria. I like to think

as

One of the goals of researchers is to be

compared with the rowers. Although both

able to replicate the effects of the bacteria

of the gut microbiome as a battleground of sorts. There are good and bad bacteria

groups would be considered high level

with a supplement. Just as many people

constantly fighting for resources and which type wins out greatly affects your health.

athletes,

take a probiotic supplement to improve

Keeping harmful bacteria at bay is just as important as taking in probiotic-rich foods

carbohydrates

in

ultramarathoners

ultrarunning

demands

longer

exertion. Having a gut microbiome that is

their

digestive

and

immune

health,

more efficient at extracting energy from food

there may one day be the opportunity to

certainly would boost performance among

purchase probiotics specific to athletic

those competing at such long distances.

performance.

And in 2016, researchers in Cork, Ireland

But being able to do so, will undoubtedly

examined the bacteria in fecal samples from

bring with it the inevitable issues of

40 professional rugby players compared to

appropriate use, dosage and even legality.

43 sedentary individuals. The rugby players

Could a microorganism be likened to

were found to have distinct differences in

steroids or other banned substances? If

the composition of their gut microbiome and

science does end up backing up the hype,

overall had much greater variety of species

will the acquisition of these super strains

populating their gut.

of bacteria be contained in a supplement

(so as to avoid the cringe-inducing fecal

Not all professional athletes have the

same level of fitness so to generalize that a

transplant)?

rugby player’s microbiome would reflect that

Although

of a different type of athlete is a stretch.

illuminating, the issue still remains; does

these

studies

are

and fueling those good-for-you bacteria. Bad bacteria in our gut thrive on sugar and refined grains. But before you jump on the artificial sweetener bandwagon, know that studies have shown that artificial sweeteners can negatively affect the gut microbiota as well. Simply restricting your intake of sugar and refined grains — without the artificial substitutes — can essentially starve out the bad bacteria in our gut, creating a healthier gut microbiome where probiotics rule the roost.

BEWARE OF ANTIBIOTICS One other thing that can seriously throw off our gut health is something we typically take to improve our health; antibiotics. Antibiotics are routinely prescribed to kill bacteria that cause illness or infections. Unfortunately, antibiotics can kill off not only their intended target, but also the probiotics in our gut. In this case, the medicine we use to resolve one health concern may just lead to another. When it is necessary to take antibiotics be sure to incorporate probiotic- and prebiotic-rich foods in your diet to reinoculate your gut. That can help ensure you keep your health and gut in check.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 11

TRAIL TALES

THE VERMONT 5

SOME PEOPLE HIKE NEW HAMPSHIRE’S 48 4,000-FOOTERS, OTHERS THE 46 IN THE ADK. THESE TWO SUMMITED VERMONT’S 5 4,000 FOOTERS IN A DAY. STORY AND PHOTOS BY TIM PECK AND DOUGLAS MARTLAND

On top of Camel's Hump with one peak to go. The record for doing all 5 of Vermont's 4000-footers, supported by car is 12 hours, set by Owen Smith. But in 2016, Peter Howe did it by bike in 15 hours, 49 minutes.

I

t’s July 15, and the clock starts

time for. Vermont’s 4,000-footers are among

9:33 P.M. Killington Peak

7:00 A.M. Route 100

momentarily here at the Bucklin Trail

the coolest in the Northeast and hiking them

Having negotiated the final quarter-mile (the

Although we’re up before our alarms,

parking lot in Mendon, Vermont. In

all in 24 hours has been on our bucket list for

steepest and rockiest section of the trail), we

driving from the campsite near Killington to

just seconds, it’ll be 8 p.m. and we’ll embark

a while. How did it end up there? We’re not

summit just in time. Although we’ve missed

Lincoln Gap on Route 100 has taken longer

on our adventure; trying to climb all of

really sure. But if you’ve been hiking for long

the true sunset, the western sky is still a

than expected. Before departing the lot,

Vermont’s 4,000-foot mountains in the

enough, you know the feeling: once a route

tapestry of brilliant purples, pinks and reds;

we ensure we have everything we’ll need.

next 24 hours. Really, it shouldn’t be that

idea starts rattling around in your head, at

colors that offer enough light to let us pull

We’re returning to a vehicle between hikes,

hard. After all, there are only five peaks

some point you just have to give it a try.

headlamps from our packs. Meanwhile to

so we each carry only a small, lightweight

the east, the sky is transitioning from deep

pack containing just a few select items:

and Mansfield), and our goal leaves us

8:32 P.M. Mendon, VT

blue to black. To the southwest, a crescent

water, some snacks, ultralight rain shells,

exactly twice as much time as Owen Smith—

Thirty-two minutes in and we’re making

moon, with Venus shining prominently

windshirts, super-thin puffies, hats and

holder of the fastest known time for the

quick work of the 3.6 miles from the trailhead

above, straddles the divide, momentarily

gloves, and a small first-aid kit.

trip—needed in August of 2015 to complete

to Killington’s summit, as the Bucklin Trail’s

marking the transformation between day

the cumulative 28 miles of hiking, 9,000

initial flat-ish portion disappears behind us.

and night.

section of our trip—the 10.5 miles from

feet of elevation gain, and associated driving

Besides discussing the logistics of the trip,

It’s tempting to linger, and we do for a

Lincoln Gap to Mount Abraham, across the

from peak to peak. So certainly we should be

we haven’t spoken in a few weeks, and the

few minutes. But when darkness envelops

Monroe Skyline to Mount Ellen, and down

able to do it, right?

conversation is relaxed and flowing, but the

the summit, we depart. With one summit

the Jerusalem Trail where Doug’s family will

pace is fast. If we move quickly, we might

complete, we retrace the 3.6 miles to the car,

be waiting to shuttle us back to Tim’s car at

catch the sunset from Killington’s summit.

headlamps illuminating the path.

Lincoln Gap—and it’s forecasted to be hot

9:10 P.M. Cooper’s Cabin

10:13 P.M. Gifford Woods State Park

(Killington, Abraham, Ellen, Camels Hump

Now you’re probably thinking 8 p.m. is a

strange time to start hiking. And we totally

and humid today, we both decide to pack an

agree. Since we met as employees in an outdoor store in Massachusetts over a decade

Since this is the longest independent

additional liter of water.

ago, we’ve been regularly hiking, climbing

We’re breathing heavily now. The trail is

While Doug and his family spent the day

and skiing together in the Northeast and

leveling off after climbing steeply toward

in Vermont, Tim drove straight from work

8:11 A.M. Lincoln Gap Trailhead

beyond and this is definitely one of our latest

Cooper’s Cabin. As we draw near, the sights

to Killington. Because of that, we’re hastily

The easiest and fastest of Vermont’s

“starts.” But between family obligations,

and sounds of backpackers finishing dinner

trying to assemble Tim’s tent by the beam

4,000-footers, the summit of Abraham is

work schedules, logistics (we’re both from

and settling in for the night come into focus.

of his headlights. Hopefully, we’ll be done

just 2.5 miles away and 1,600 feet above

out of state, Doug from Massachusetts and

The smell of food and the chattering of fellow

quickly and can get some rest. Regardless,

the Long Trail trailhead at Lincoln Gap,

Tim from New Hampshire) and making

hikers is momentarily distracting and cabin

with a 5 a.m. alarm, our stay at Gifford

making it the the perfect warm up for what’s

sure there’s a little time for sleep, fitting this

life seems a pleasant diversion. But with light

Woods State Park will be a short one.

sure to be a very long day. We’ve made

endeavour in was complicated.

fading fast, we push on.

It was also something we wanted to make

12 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

good time up the trail on the first two(ish) miles from Lincoln Gap and just passed the

Battell Shelter. The caretaker is stirring,

Making the summit on Mt. Mansfield, headed north on the Long Trail.

beginning her morning routine. The smell of food—bacon, we think—permeates the

The car ride and the how-is-it-still-in-themid-90s heat have taken a toll, so much so that covering the Long Trail’s comparatively

air. It would taste so much better than the

benign first mile is a massive labor. Despite

energy gel “breakfast” we had, but a busy day

our tired legs and the brutal heat, this has

awaits us. We head up. Another mile ahead

become a race against the clock, as we have

is Abraham’s treeless summit. The last bit

a little more than three hours to cover the 5

is a steep climb. But we’ll trade that short

miles and almost 3,000 feet of elevation gain

challenge for summit number two and the

and loss to succeed in our goal to climb all of

fantastic early morning view that’s sure to be

Vermont’s 4,000-footers in 24 hours.

waiting with it.

6:15 P.M. Mt. Mansfield Summit

8:34 A.M. Mt. Abe

We arrive at the col between two of Mount

Being on the trail early has its privileges.

Mansfield’s prominent features The Chin—

We get the rare satisfaction of having Mount

the mountain’s true summit—and The

Abraham’s summit to ourselves—the second

Adam’s Apple. Although we are close, the

in a row, thanks to our off-hour climb up

summit still looks far away and the clock

Killington. We pause on the summit, shoot

continues to tick. Knowing that the most

a few photos, and eat what, for today at

consequential terrain of the day lies ahead,

least, passes as a “real” breakfast: a baloney

we each have a gel and drink deeply from our

sandwich for Tim and a Clif Bar for Doug. The contrast in the make-up of Tim’s sandwich—

From here, it’s a short jaunt south on the

the organic bread and Cabot cheese versus

Long Trail into the alpine zone atop Camels

the cheap baloney—leaves us laughing at the

Hump. Between the lichen-covered rocks,

choices people make.

the fragile alpine plants, and the 360-degree views, it’s sure to be a highlight of the trip.

9:54 A.M. Monroe Skyline

With temperatures in the mid-90s and the

The Monroe Skyline rolls along forever,

air thick with humidity, we also beg audibly

popping in and out of the woods, occasionally

for a breeze.

at the top of one of Sugarbush’s ski lifts. With

Although the breeze disappoints, the

minimal ups and downs, the five-and-a-half

view doesn’t. We sit for a moment and take

mile traverse is the most consistently “easy”

it in. Mountains of green spill out all around

terrain we’ll hike today. Since Abraham,

us. To the north, we spy the highest of them

we’ve crossed Lincoln Peak (with its great

all: Mt. Mansfield, our final destination.

lookout platform) and Nancy Hanks Peak and have seen some amazing wildflower

Scrambling through the crags to reach Mt. Mansfield.

With the end in sight, we wearily begin to retrace our steps the 2.5 miles down the mountain and back to the car.

patches. Now we’re approaching Cutts Peak. the halfway point, the heat of the day and a 10:13 A.M. Mount Ellen

lot of trail time are still ahead of us.

3:55 P.M. Waterbury With no traffic, it’s a little over an hour

Still on the Long Trail, we arrive at the

bottles before scrambling to the summit.

Standing on the summit we are met with

a steady, cool wind for the first time on this trip. In just moments, the refreshing breeze begins to feel cold and we dig windshirts from our packs. Equally refreshing is the realization that it’s all downhill from here.

Like most of the summits on this trip, we have this one to ourselves. Before descending, we take a few minutes to finish our remaining water, enjoy the views, and take delight in the fact that we will be back at the cars before 8 p.m., the official end of our day.

7:43 P.M. Long Trail The descent back down the Long Trail is an uneventful slog. Although we haven’t discussed it, we’ve both been watching the clock and are fully prepared to sprint the remaining distance to the car should it

summit of Mt. Ellen—number 3 of the VT

12:30 P.M. Burrows Trail

drive from Camels Hump to our final hike

5—but with no view to speak of, and many

Right now, we’re stretching our legs—stiff

of the day: the Long Trail up Mt. Mansfield

more miles before us, we continue traversing

from the 45-minute car ride—on the the

from Stowe Mountain Resort. However,

along the ridge for almost two more miles

rocky, rooty Burrows Trail. Although the

courtesy of road work, we’re at the mercy of

before branching off on the Jerusalem Trail,

trail starts out easy, it gets steep fast as

the construction worker holding the Stop/

heading downhill to the trailhead where

it ascends Vermont’s third-tallest peak

Slow sign. With Ben & Jerry’s just down the

Doug’s family is waiting for us.

(elevation: 4,081 feet) over the course of 2.5

road and motivation fading as we sit in the

miles. Unfortunately, we just left the car at

unmoving car, abandoning our plans for a

11:05 A.M. Jerusalem Trail

the Burrows trailhead. Most of the 2,500 feet

few scoops sounds pretty good. But just as

Here’s the road at last. We’ve finally finished

of elevation gain still stands above us.

our motivations start shifting, traffic breaks

the Jerusalem Trail, descending for what felt

We’ve been hiking together in the

and our thoughts of ice cream are put on

like forever through dense Vermont forest

Northeast for 15 years and have a pretty good

hold—at least for a few more hours. A Google

and, as we neared the road, a spiderweb of

collective sense of when it’s time to put the

search confirms that Ben & Jerry’s is open

maple sugaring pipes. Even better, Doug’s

hammer down. Shortly after hitting the trail,

until 9, leaving us plenty of time to finish

family found the trailhead on Jim Dwire

somewhere along the wooded corridor of

hiking and return here before closing.

(and lost) about 9,000 feet of elevation. We

Road, a feat that eluded us the first time we

the Burrows Trail, we flip the switch. Heads

did this traverse (but did lead to us getting a

down, autopilot on, our feet march steadily

4:43 P.M. Stowe Mountain Resort

hours is well within reach of the average

nice tour of Bristol). Gear stored in the car

up the mountain, as we swiftly gobble up the

Leaving the parking lot at Stowe Mountain

weekend warrior, and is comparable in

and kids peppering us with questions, we

2.5 miles and roughly 2,300 feet of elevation

Resort, we follow a newly rerouted section

difficulty to other classic New England

make quick work of the drive back to Lincoln

gain.

of the Long Trail along wooden bridges and passing beaver ponds before we begin

hiking challenges, like the Presidential Traverse—the iconic 22-mile trip across the

1:37 P.M. Camel’s Hump

climbing the mountain proper. Once again

White Mountains’ Presidential Range. More

roads to the Burrows Trailhead at Camels

Lost in the reverie that is hiking, we

on the iconic foot path, we breathe a sigh of

importantly, though, we had a fantastic day

Hump is mostly silent as we gobble food

unexpectedly stumble into the clearing

relief knowing that this time we’re enroute to

in the mountains and are already thinking

and rehydrate. Even though we’ve crossed

where the Burrows Trail joins the Long Trail.

the day’s last objective: Mansfield’s summit.

about what’s next. Anybody have suggestions?

Gap. Once back in Tim’s car, the ride north on Vermont 17 and a hodgepodge of country

become necessary. Fortunately for our weary legs, the road is in sight and the finish line is just around the bend. In a few minutes, parking lot beers will make everything much better.

8:24 The Road Home Stuck in traffic again somewhere between Stowe and Waterbury, we’re reflecting on our quixotic adventure. In the last 24 hours, we climbed five 4,000-footers (as well as a few other mountains on the Abraham-Ellen traverse), hiked almost 28 miles, and gained discovered that summiting the VT 5 in 24

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 13

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in the Wild

TRAIL TALES

NEW OUTPUTS IF YOU WANT TO ESCAPE THE CROWDS, FOUR NEW HIDDEN HUTS WILL MAKE YOU FEEL AT HOME IN THE MOUNTAINS.

BY ABAGAEL GILES

ETCHED IN SLATE VALLEY

Heart Lake as seen from the summit of Mount Jo in the Adirondacks. From the lake, Mount Jo is an easy 2.2-mile round trip hike that is great for families with kids or your first afternoon in camp. Photo by Seth Jones.

W

hen I lived in California, often

and the first pond came into view, it felt like

the trails for the cooler temperatures, three-

I would wake up to find I had

themselves slowly the way the Appalachian

But they are not misty. They don’t reveal

coming home.

day weekends and magnificent foliage. And

been dreaming of New England

mountains do. They stare you down and dare

Mountain huts will do that to you. It’s

that is often reflected in the availability (or

mountain huts wrapped in fall mist.

you to defy them.

inspiring to imagine the adventurers who

rather lack-thereof) of popular backcountry

The Eastern Sierra are literally the

Coming

always

frequented them before you. And there

facilities. In other words, if you haven’t

biggest mountains in the lower 48. Like

included an annual pilgrimage to Carter

is nothing like opening a cabin door on a

booked a hut yet, you might consider yourself

New Hampshire’s White Mountains, they

Notch Hut. I even worked one fall there as

rainy day to find yourself in a shelter, warm,

out of luck.

are granite behemoths that rise out of the

part of a hut “croo” for the Appalachian

among friends, miles from the closest road,

landscape they define like a spine. They are

Mountain Club (in addition to a summer in

taking refuge together.

have been built or newly renovated and

jagged in their adolescence, and they inspire

college). Every time I returned, as I crested

That said, hiking in fall foliage season can

remain off the beaten track. In Vermont,

equal parts adventure, fear and awe.

the notch on Nineteen-Mile-Brook Trail

be an exercise in patience. Everyone takes to

the Nulhegan Hut and Chittenden Brook

home

to

Vermont

Or not. In the last two years, four huts

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 15

Above, the Nulhegan Confluence Hut and Trails facility sits on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. In the spring, a three-mile stretch of class I rapids starts at the hut and ends at the Connecticut River. Photos by Sean Beckett

The main lodge at Medawisla (left) features a rustic fireplace and sauna, as well as a 46-person meeting space, which can be reserved in advance by groups. Private two-bedroom cabins like the one above sleep six and include a full bathroom and wood stove. Check out the Trout Mountain singletrack mountain bike trails or plan a canoe trip on the chain of lakes that form the Roach Pond network. Photos courtesy the Appalachian Mountain Club.

Hut both opened for reservations this

year. Northern Maine’s Medawisla Lodge

time. What Noah Pollock of Vermont River

reopened in the fall of 2017, and the Tyler

Conservancy calls Vermont’s wildest river,

Cabin, part of the Heart Lake Camps near

the Nulhegan has never been dammed

Lake Placid, N.Y. in the Adirondack State

and never will be. Ninety percent of its

Park, reopened for reservations in 2016

tributaries are protected through public land

following renovations.

or conservation easements. Fall mornings

At these woodland huts, there is a real

in the basin are misty, and the surrounding

feeling of belonging. The lingering finality of

forests have a boreal feel that imbues

summer amplifies that.

coziness.

So this fall, pack your book, leave your

Traveling there is like a trip back in

The

insulated 14- by 18-foot timber

tent, ditch the crowds, and find your way to

framed cabin is on the river, a 300-yard walk

one of these hidden huts.

from the road and lies on a 70-acre parcel

THE NULHEGAN HUT AND TRAILS, BLOOMFIELD, VT

of conserved land. The hut is outfitted with a wood stove and sleeps six. Propane and

knoll to arrive at a backcountry hut complete

a mile upstream of the hut. Above the gorge

with a furnished kitchen, common room,

lie three miles of flatwater paddling. In the

wood stove and porch. Maybe you hiked

winter, bring your skis for cross country

1.8 miles off the Long Trail to get there, or

skiing on the many miles of neighboring dirt

maybe you arrived by mountain bike via a

roads and trails.

section of the proposed Velomont Trail.

Rates are $20-$25 per person per

This is the new Chittenden Brook

night and $75 per night for the whole hut.

Hut, owned and operated by the Vermont

Visit

Huts

vermontriverconservancy.org

should be prepared to treat their own water.

Nulhegan Basin is one of the wildest, most

remote places in Vermont. Its rich logging

Canoe Trail, the hut is a perfect stop. There’s

history left huge swaths of undeveloped

also a 1.5-mile walking trail and hundreds of

land latticed with miles and miles of old dirt

miles of gravel roads perfect for a gravel bike.

logging roads and trails.

While this fall the river may be too low to

Starting September 1, the Vermont River

paddle from the hut, a one-mile stretch of the

Conservancy will be accepting reservations

Nulhegan just upstream called the Nulhegan

for its newest hut, located at the confluence

Gorge becomes a nice class III rapid from

of the Nulhegan and its East Branch, three

April to June. “You could run laps and have

miles before it joins the Connecticut River.

a fire waiting,” suggests Pollock. You can also

for

information and reservations.

CHITTENDEN BROOK HUT, CHITTENDEN, VT Imagine taking a trail through a wooded

Association

National

Forest

on

Green

Mountain

land

near

Chittenden

Brook Campground off Brandon Gap. The campground offers access to a 7.5-mile network of trails designed for hiking in the summer and cross-country skiing in the winter.

cooking implements are supplied, but guests

Far in the northeast corner of the state,

16 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

fish for wild brook trout on the Black Branch,

In the winter, the new hut is also a 2.5-

mile skin or snowshoe from the Rochester

For paddlers on the Northern Forest

and Randolph Area Sports Trail Alliance’s (RASTA)

Brandon

Gap

Backcountry

Recreation Area, which features cut glades for backcountry skiing.

The access road is closed to vehicles in

the winter, but open during the summer and fall, which makes the ADA compliant building accessible to just about everyone.

Chittenden Brook Hut, waiting to be installed.

“Imagine getting out of work on a Friday

night and skinning the 2.3 miles up to the

hut under the moonlight. The next morning, you make breakfast, skin up the Chittenden Brook Trail, get on the Long Trail heading north for a jaunt, and you’re on top of the terrain that RASTA created with the National Forest,” said RJ Thompson, Executive Director of the Vermont Huts Association, adding that glade development immediately above the hut is being considered as part of the Velomont Trail review process.

The hut will be installed later this fall.

Students at the Yestermorrow Design/ Build School are currently putting the final touches on details like hand-carved trim on the building’s exterior and a panoramic mountain decal on the built-in reading nook.

The Vermont Huts Association opened reservations for its new Chittenden Brook

Above, the view of the Wild River Wilderness from the Ramparts at the base of Carter Notch. The original stone building (right), which houses the Hut "Croo," kitchen, dining room and library was built in 1914.

Photos by Abagael Giles and Dennis Welsh

Hut to members on August 17 for dates starting December 1, 2018. Member rates from the second Tuesday in October to Memorial Day are $110 per weekday night and $155 per weekend night. During the summer, the cabin can be rented for $135 per weekday night or $175 per weekend night.

Reservations at vermonthuts.org

MEDAWISLA LODGE & CABINS, SECOND ROACH POND, ME If you are looking for a truly remote, old fashioned great camp experience that offers great food and comfortable lodging in a truly wild setting, Medawisla Lodge and Cabins deep in central Maine’s north woods is the place.

In 2006, the Appalachian Mountain Club

purchased the original camp, which was comprised of seven cabins built in 1953. Over the following eleven years, the organization conserved the surrounding 70,000 acres

The Tyler Cabin reopened for reservations in 2016 following renovations. As one of three remote front country cabins on the Adirondack Mountain Club's Heart Lake land, it is a perfect option for those looking to stay warm while they paddle or hike in the High Peaks region this fall. Photo courtesy Adirondack Mountain Club

of forest and restored the camp, reopening

has a big fireplace and sitting room, deck

shores of a lake. At the Heart Lake Camps,

check out the Tyler Cabin, a newly-renovated

it to visitors in 2017 with nine cabins, two

and sauna. Bunkhouse visitors bring their

you can start your morning at the lakeshore

two-bedroom that accommodates six people.

bunkhouses, a lodge and a sauna, all on the

own linens. Some of the cabins are ADA

and end it on one of the High Peaks, without

In addition to the amenities offered in the

shores of Second Roach Pond.

accessible.

The camp, which is off the grid, is

accessed by car, and every cabin is heated

ever getting back in your car. Popular fall

other cabins, the Tyler Cabin features a

and

hikes from these camps include the two-

queen-sized bed and view of the lake.

bunkrooms are available year-round and

mile jaunt up Mount Jo, the one-mile Heart

Full

service

stays

in

cabins

The Weitzel Trails Cabin is home to the

with a wood stove. In the summer, canoes,

include breakfast, a trail lunch and dinner.

Lake Trail, which goes around the lake,

Adirondack Mountain Club’s professional

kayaks and SUPs are available for guest use.

Full-service nightly rates for AMC member

and any number of hikes that summit high

trail crew from May through November,

Second Roach Pond offers great fly fishing

adults range from $80-$183 in September,

peaks from the neighboring Adirondack Loj

when it opens up to reservations from the

for wild brook trout and landlocked salmon.

and $99-$219 for non-member adults. Self

Trailhead. You can also rent SUPs, canoes

public. This facility sleeps 16. As a result,

In the winter, guests have access to 30

service is available from May 10 through

and kayaks from the Adirondack Loj for $7

it’s popular with larger groups who come to

miles of groomed cross-country ski trails

November 26 in bunkhouses and May 10

per hour.

cross country ski in the winter.

(80 if you count the network that leads to

through Sept. 30 in the Waterfront Cabins.

The Heart Lake Camps are three

Cabin-goers can purchase dinner at

the AMC’s other Maine lodges, Little Lyford

A night in a self-service bunkhouse in

furnished

the

the Adirondack Loj or cook for themselves.

and Gorman Chairback), which become

September is $55 for members and $66

Adirondack Mountain Club near the Heart

Trail advice is available at the Adirondack

a running and hiking trail system in the

for non-members, and a night in a self-

Lake Campground and Adirondack Loj,

Mountain Club’s High Peaks Information

summer and fall. In the summer, mountain

service Waterfront Cabin is $75 per member

outside of Lake Placid.

Center, located on the same tract of land.

biking is allowed on the surrounding logging

adult and $90 per non-member adult. For

The Campground Cabin is cozy and

rustic and sleeps four in one bunk room.

from $233 to $259 for Adirondack Mountain

There is also a common area, bathroom with

Club members and $269 to $299 for non-

a shower and furnished kitchen (including a

members. Nightly rates for the Campground

refrigerator) and an outdoor picnic area with

Cabin range from $161 to $170 for members

roads. There are also guided naturalist

reservations, visit outdoors.org.

trips, stargazing programs and campfire conservation chats.

Cabin interiors feature exposed wood

THE HEART LAKE CAMPS, LAKE PLACID, NY

cabins

managed

by

Nightly rates at the Tyler Cabin range

walls and rustic furnishings. Beds are made

Fall in the Adirondacks comes swiftly, and

a fire pit. It’s nestled into the woods that

and $179 to $189 for non-members. For

and linens are provided. All visitors are

there is no better place to watch peak foliage

surround the Heart Lake Campground.

reservations, visit adk.org/stay/heart-lake-

welcome to spend time in the lodge, which

erupt from the mountainsides than the

camps/

If you’re looking for a room with a view,

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 17

Lessons From the APPALACHIAN TRAIL HIKING FOR THREE MONTHS CAN TEACH YOU A LOT — ABOUT YOURSELF, YOUR GEAR AND LIFE.

BY EVAN JOHNSON

F

or the past five weeks I have had

It’s a scene assembled from many; a quilt

1,167-mile trek on the Appalachian Trail,

The three months and six days it took

a recurring dream of trees. I am

of senses that wraps my sleeping conscious.

from Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, to the

me to cover that distance served multiple

walking a narrow trail over beds

As it shakes off in my waking moments, I

summit of Mount Katahdin in Maine. Since

purposes, but mostly it was time for myself.

of pine needles and woven mats of roots

grab hold of one piece of the tapestry. It can

then, a recurring question that friends and

I ate when I was hungry and slept when I

gnarled like gripping fingers. Darts of

be the thick scent of pine, the icy grip of water

family put to me is, “How was it?”

was tired. The trail went on. I thought about

sunlight slip through trees wrapped in

rushing around my ankles, or the relentless

When asked, most times I mumble a

morning mist. I walk and breathe in the pine

press of mountain wind against my chest. I

series of observations about the late-March

forest around me. Wind stirs the branches,

hold each of these in the sharpest focus for

weather in Pennsylvania or the difficulty

And I learned things. Some important,

dripping dew on my neck and face, I look

as long as I can before they slip away; back

of hitching a ride to Millinocket, Maine.

some really dumb, some of which I’ve laid

behind me, and the dream slips away as I

into the ether until the next morning.

It’s difficult to condense so much. It’s like

out for you here.

awake in bed.

18 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

It has been five weeks since I finished a

trying to fit a bear into a paper bag.

all the things that had brought me to right then and there.

A thru-hiker looks out across central Pennsylvania from The Pinnacle, an outcrop of rock on the Appalachian Trail. Photo by David Halterman

PLAN YOUR DIVE, DIVE YOUR PLAN The Appalachian Trail draws its inspiration from Vermont’s Long Trail, which founder Benton MacKaye dreamed of while sitting in a tree at the top of Stratton Mountain, not far from where I grew up, in Marlboro, Vt. MacKaye envisioned a trail that would run up the spine of the Appalachian range.

He proposed it in 1921. Today, the AT runs 2,190 miles from Georgia to Maine.

My plan was to start halfway, in West

Virginia and hike northward. My decision

season and just doing the northern section,

to hike this section was severalfold: Books

I figured I would skip some of the crowds.

Even if my legs and lungs could carry me every step of the way, there was no way

like Wild by Cheryl Strayed and A Walk in

After a childhood of hiking and

the Woods by Bill Bryson (and the movie

camping all over the northeast, I also

my wallet could.

I began planning in January 2018.

versions of both) have been credited with

relished the idea of hiking homeward and

For the weeks leading up to departure, on

causing huge increases in traffic on both

into familiar territory.

powder days I would drive up the hill from

the Appalachian Trail and the west coast’s

Then there was the question of money.

my house to the Middlebury College Snow

Pacific Crest Trail. In the past decade,

Hikers estimate spending between $2 and

Bowl where I would skin to the summit

I heard horror stories of over-crowded

$3 per mile on the trail for an average

with the sunrise and enjoy thick and deep

shelters, noisy parties and contaminated

range of $4,000 to $6,000, not including

turns all the way down. I practiced yoga

water sources. By starting early in the

initial costs of equipment.

and grew a mustache. As winter turned to

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 19

spring, I made up massive batches of chili,

mid-Atlantic with enough snow to briefly

chana masala, and split pea soup, which

cripple plane and train travel. My nerves

I dehydrated and packaged into single-

felt charged by the journey that was about

dinner servings with a vacuum sealer. I

to start. All the months of preparation and

also bought cases of ramen noodles and

training were finally about to be put into

a wide selection of Knorr pasta and rice

play; all I needed to do was start walking. I

sides. I did my best to approximate how

heaved the pack from the luggage rack and

much food I would need for five- to six-day

stepped out onto the platform. My heart

periods and arranged to have boxes sent to

leapt as I noticed a familiar figure. I found

me at different points along the trail, either

enough energy to scoop my best friend

to hostels that cater to hikers or post offices

GennaRose off her feet in a giant hug. She

that were within a mile from the trail. I

was traveling north from New Orleans and

created a spreadsheet that organized the

made a slight detour on her journey to see

addresses of these resupply stops from

me off.

south to north and shared it with a few

“What the hell am I doing?” I asked.

close friends and family.

“You’re going on an adventure,” she

Preparing my gear was not nearly

said.

as methodical. The process consisted of

On March 25, I crossed the Potomac

putting the proper clothes and equipment

and started in on the 40 miles of Maryland

in my pack and placing it in a corner. I

trail. Aside from a beautiful clear first day,

didn’t have the money for the lightweight

the initial days were filled with long, slow

setup of my dreams. Finding out how much my whole setup weighed and not being able

After a long day, the author holes up in the Cove Mountain Shelter near Duncannon, Pa.

Photo by Evan Johnson

miles in hypothermia-inducing rain. The snow, sometimes a foot-deep, would melt

to change it would have only tormented

in New Mexico when I was still in the Boy

break down or how rapidly. There was only

to slush in the daytime and then refreeze

me. On nicer winter days, I took the pack

Scouts. I was certainly in shape, but I didn’t

one way to answer these questions.

at night, creating a hard pan to post-hole

for long walks on the dirt roads in Ripton.

know how my hips, knees and back would

In late February, I bought a one-way

through before the thaw started again. A

I kept my eye on forecasts and snowfall

adapt to carrying what must have been at

train ticket to Harpers Ferry. My brother

pair of cross-country skis started to seem

totals for Maryland and Pennsylvania. A

least 30 pounds in my pack. My food was

drove me to the train station at 4 a.m. on

like a good idea.

final step was coating my clothes and tent

prepared and ready to be shipped, but I

March 24.

in a layer of tick-proof Permethrin.

still didn’t know how many miles I could

The springtime landscape left much to be desired (brown, foggy, muddy) which

By the time March arrived, I felt like

cover in a day and how quickly that would

YOUR FRIENDS WILL FIND YOU

I was only three-quarters prepared. I was

cause me to consume the food. I had all

The train’s brakes howled as we crossed

and southern Pennsylvania alone. While I

no stranger to backcountry travel, but my

the equipment I needed and knew how to

the Potomac River and I breathed a sigh of

saw occasional day-hikers, I was the sole

longest trek yet had been a 60-mile hike

use it, but I didn’t anticipate how it would

relief. The latest nor’easter had smacked the

occupant of the Potomac Appalachian

meant I spent the majority of Maryland

THE GEAR THAT WENT THE DISTANCE

Trekking 1,167 miles over three months tells you a lot about what gear works and what doesn’t. Rather than buy new gear, I made do with what I had.

SMARTWOOL CORBET JACKET This jacket was ideal for wear around camp at the end of the day or on cold mornings.

It uses Smartloft wool insulation as a fill instead of down, which kept me warm even when damp. It layered well under my rain shell too.

PATAGONIA R1 FLEECE Tough as nails and comfortable to wear with a pack, this was the layer I wore the most. I bought mine at a ski swap for $8.

UNDER ARMOUR RUNNING SHORTS These shorts survived from West Virginia to Maine and I’m still wearing them as I train for my next trail race. They have builtin underwear too, meaning fewer clothes to pack.

AKU ALTERRA GTX BOOTS I ground my way through three pairs of boots between West Virginia to Maine.

These were the pair that I finished in.

20 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

With remarkably little break-in time, these boots were a good fit and kept my feet comfortable for long days with zero blisters or hot spots, thanks to the elastic material for the tongue and collar that also serves as a gusset.

BUFF

DARN TOUGH SOCKS

MSR WHISPERLITE STOVE

Vermont has the best beer, ice cream, and skiing, and I think we need to add socks to that list. I went through six pairs of socks on my hike and Darn Toughs lasted the longest of any. All three pairs have all been replaced as part of their ironclad warranty.

The Whisperlite has long been a favorite among campers and backpackers for its reliability in cold weather and the design hasn’t changed much since they were first introduced in the ‘80s. It worked every morning and night and was easy to disassemble and clean, but it was heavy and finding fuel became a hassle. I’ll be switching to a lighter option like MSR’s Pocket Rocket.

Cool when hot, comfy and warm when it’s cold, these things weigh next to nothing and offered just an extra bit of versatility in changing weather. In the early days of the trek, I wore mine almost every day.

layout, suspension system and excess features that made it frustrating to pack and carry. I’m currently on the lookout for a simple, lightweight pack with a high volume.

MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT FIRELITE

LL BEAN TEK 02 STORM JACKET I’ve worn this jacket as a light shell while skiing and in the early parts of the trek, this jacket withstood the wind and wet mightily with the help of LL Bean’s proprietary waterproof fabric. But as it got dirtier, the waterproofing failed in the shoulders and arms where it saw the most abrasion. The lesson I learned: wash your tech fabrics regularly.

LL BEAN WHITE MOUNTAIN PACK This is a basic 70-liter backpacking pack that I’ve used on several multi-day trips.

While it’s inoffensive for the first two to three days, there’s plenty about this pack’s

This three-season down bag kept me cozy on nights when it got as low as 20 degrees and in warmer weather I unzipped it to use as a quilt. At just 27 ounces, it packs down to the size of a loaf of sandwich bread.

LL BEAN MICROLITE UL 2 TENT While it’s a tight fit for two, this two-person backpacking tent was palatial for little me.

When the nights were particularly cold, I would set up the tent inside the shelter to create a warmer microclimate. The tent weighs 3.2 pounds and took up lots of my pack’s volume.

Trail Club’s beautiful shelters. The nights usually brought rain and left thick fog in

ROUTE PLANNING

the morning.

The afternoon I crossed the Mason Dixon Line, I came across my first longdistance hiker, a retired policeman from

If you’re interested in starting your own long-distance hike on the Appalachian Trail, here are a few resources to help plan.

Ohio named Joel who gave himself the trailname “Old-N-Slow.” We stuck together for two days until we reached Fayetteville, Pa., when his doctor called to advise him to

THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL CONSERVANCY

take a few days off and I continued onward.

Pennsylvania goes by the moniker Rock-

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is the non-profit that oversees the trail and is a good place to start, with interactive digital maps, print maps and tons of useful information. There are approximately 165,000 white blazes marking the trail between Georgia and Maine. The trail is so well marked in places that many people forego using maps and instead use a guide like the A.T. Guide. But I’m old-fashioned and prefer topographical maps for planning and in case things go sideways. appalachiantrail.org

sylvania among AT hikers and when the snow melted with the start of spring, I began to understand why. As the trail dipped and climbed between long, flat ridges, I had to carefully pick my way through fields of loose boulders and rocks.

On the afternoon of April 3, water squirted out the tops of my boots as I shuffled into downtown Boiling Springs, Pa. The spring rains were driving off the last of the snow and I smelled like pig shit

Johnson celebrates the end of his 1,167-mile trek on the summit of Katahdin.

Photo by Evan Johnson

from slogging through muddy fields. After

While hiking, I ate every two hours from

picking up a resupply box at the post office,

sunrise until I reached camp. Breakfast at

THERE WILL BE VISITATIONS

of-hand.

I walked to Anile’s Pizzeria and called a

dawn was a protein bar with instant coffee.

The

friend I hadn’t seen in six years. I ordered a

On days with pre-dawn starts, I’d delay

Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire’s

large white pizza and had eaten half before

my coffee break until 8 a.m. More snacks

White Mountains, my grandmother visited

Tyler walked through the door.

followed into the afternoon.

me. I had just completed my longest day

night

before

I

completed

the

In addition to providing me with a

I learned from some more experienced

so far in some of the most difficult terrain.

guest room for three nights, Tyler’s family

hikers how to “cold soak” my food and

After a 17-mile hike from the Garfield

invited me to stay in their cabin just off the

save fuel. About two hours before I wanted

Shelter dropped me down into Crawford

trail, where I rested on Easter Sunday with

to eat, I would combine water and rice or

Notch, the last six miles of the day had

a cache of goodies they left for me. When

couscous in an empty peanut butter jar and

me climbing 2,474 feet to the top of the

I reached Hamburg, Pa., my uncle insisted

leave it to rattle around in my pack until

Webster Cliffs. I limped into the Nauman

on driving the three hours from Delaware

lunch or dinner.

Tent site at around 9 p.m. and had just enough energy to eat dinner and crawl

to pick me up for some needed rest. My

In camp at the end of the day, the

friends Jeff and Kath picked me up in Fort

priorities were to unpack anything that

Montgomery, N.Y. and dropped me back

needed to be dried, filter enough water

I fell into a sleep that went beyond

on the trail with sandwiches, cheese and

to start the next day, eat and get to bed

my body, exhaustion so consuming it felt

fresh fruits and veggies. My brother rode

before “hiker midnight,” or whenever full

narcotic. In the brief, inestimable time that

his Harley down from Troy, N.Y. to spend

dark arrived. By soaking my food in the

only dreams create, she was standing right

an afternoon eating ice cream sandwiches

daytime, I didn’t need to jockey for space

in front of me: my beautiful grandmother.

with me in Salisbury, Conn. As I neared

to set up my stove and I could go to bed

“Hi, sweetheart.”

Route 9 in Southern Vermont on Mothers

earlier.

“Grandma.”

inside my tent.

THE A.T. “AWOL” GUIDE Published annually, the A.T. guide has waypoints for the entire trail from Georgia to Maine. It also has helpful information on shuttles, hiker hostels, town maps, and resupply points. North and southbound editions are available. I carried a PDF edition on my phone that I could reference when needed. Various other open-source guides are available, but nearly every hiker I met used this guide. theatguide.com

GUTHOOK TRAIL GUIDE APPS For the more technically inclined. The Guthook app downloads a full map of the trail to your device. The maps include interactive elevation profiles, photos, virtual trail registers, and thousands of points of interest curated by experienced hikers. guthookhikes.com

“How are you.”

Day, I found my parents and their pup,

Hiking for at least eight hours every

hiking in to meet me. No matter where, my

day puts even the most in-shape of

“Grandma, I’m hurting.”

REDDIT

hikers at a severe energy deficiency. I’ve

“I know.”

Reddit has a very active hiking community that will give you no shortage of advice on everything from gear to route selection. The subreddit community members will also post updates and alerts during the hiking season. reddit. com/r/appalachianTrail/

friends and family came to find me.

read estimates that backpackers require

“Grandma, I’m tired.”

HUNGER HAS A VOLUME KNOB

upwards of 5,500 calories per day and even

“I know that, sweetheart.”

During these periods of prolonged intense

when I upped my rations to two dinners

“But you’re not here.”

activity, I became familiar with what my

(one package of noodles, one package of

“I know that.”

body needed to perform. By fueling myself

Idahoan Instant Mashed Potatoes), I still

correctly and regularly, I could go further,

lost weight.

She smiled and I opened my eyes to a glow around me: Morning. I forced myself

I was consuming astounding quantities

from the cocoon of the sleeping bag and

Snacks, specifically the lack thereof,

of food with ease. In early June, a pair of

put on my down jacket and watch cap. The

became a problem. I always had enough

through-hikers caught up with me near

morning scene was a no-man’s-land of

meals to cook at the end of the day, but

the town of Pomfret, Vt. We walked to a

swirling sky and, around my campsite, a

I wasn’t about to stop midday to cook up

road crossing just a third of a mile away

chaos of blow-downs.

a cup of Top Ramen. Instead, I needed

to the On The Edge Farmstand. There, we

The Crawford Path is one of the

to keep myself in a constant supply of

plundered the coolers for Gatorade and

oldest continually maintained footpaths

calorie-dense foods that I could gobble as

Coca Cola. A cardboard sign indicated ice

in the United States and runs 8.2 miles

I walked. Stops in town required me to

cream flavors. “It’s $3 for a scoop and $4

from Route 302 to the summit of Mount

buy mountains of Clif Bars, jerky, peanut

for a pint,” the proprietor advised us.

Washington, passing the summits of

faster.

M&Ms, Swedish fish, Snickers, dried fruit and more.

The pint of Hershey’s Moose Tracks

Pierce, Eisenhower, Franklin and Monroe.

vanished like some David Blaine sleight-

It takes its name from Abel Crawford, a

WHITE BLAZE Whiteblaze.net is a community of Appalachian Trail enthusiasts and you’ll find all manner of reading material here in order to prepare yourself. You can sign up for rideshares, get feedback on reducing your pack weight and share stories and photos. I picked up first aid guides and advice on scheduling mail drops here. whiteblaze.net

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 21

Vermonter who settled in New Hampshire

Tail Hook and Lemonade. The three of us

Mountains. It costs some $150 per night

taught me to play three-card bluff and we

in 1791 whose family cut some of the first

had picked up enough empty beer cans and

to stay in these high-alpine huts, but by

split a pint of Bulleit whiskey, drinking it

trails in the southern Presidentials.

food wrappers to fill a trash bag, which I

offering to do the dishes or defrosting the

out of coffee mugs. Between hands, Glacial

At 7 a.m., when I broke above treeline,

would carry out with me the next morning.

freezer, long-distance hikers are permitted

revealed that all of his relationships

the wind felt like a baseball bat swung into

“You mean you’ve been hiking some

to eat all the leftovers and sleep on the

seemed to expire before five years, a

500 miles and you still don’t have a trail

benches free of charge. A twice-divorced

pattern he called his “five-year-plan.”

name?” Tail Hook asked.

my chest. I didn’t mind.

THRU-HIKERS OPEN UP The liminal space created by the trail invites people to open up. For two days, or

golf cart salesman from Florida, who went

“It’s nothing I have a problem with,”

“That’s right,” I replied.

by the trail name Glacial, on account of

he said. “It’s just the way things seem to

Lemonade sat in contemplative silence

how slowly he hiked in the southern states,

always go.”

for a few minutes and then said:

joined me in a work-for-stay at Madison Springs Hut.

Glacial told me the Appalachian Trail

sometimes up to four, I might encounter

“I think we’ll start calling you Greener.”

the same thru-hikers at campsites or in

And that was that. The name stuck and

The next morning as we crested Mount

years old and now, midway through his

towns. There were Peanut Butter and Jelly,

when I introduced myself to others, there

Madison and descended into Pinkham

career, he was only about 300 miles away

a couple from North Carolina who started

was no explanation or story. I was Greener.

Notch, Glacial told me about the women in

from completing a feat nine out of ten

hiking from Georgia on January 1 and had

Hikers move up or down the trail in

his life, settling on one particular partner,

people fail. Despite this, I sensed a deeply

endured everything from mishaps with bear

small clusters called “bubbles” that might

a single mother of two named Lexie. He

insecure individual. I spent an extra day

mace to symptoms of scurvy. Nightingale,

break and scatter or join up with a larger

was 25 when they met; she was 35.

recovering in Gorham and Glacial headed

who had a habit of talking in her sleep.

group. As the bubbles move, it’s common to

Patches was entering medical school in

hear gossip about the individuals chasing

the fall. Frank, a beer lover from Kansas,

you or who are still a few days ahead.

“She was very...” he wiggled his eyebrows, “...spontaneous.”

By way of example, Glacial offered

had been a dream of his since he was 12

back onto the trail, alone again.

PAIN IS PATIENT, SO ARE YOU

was leaving her professorship to start work

In camp at night or if I was hiking with

anecdotes in which this woman met him in

As I hiked, my average distance increased

in a new brewery. These trail names were

people during the day, I would catch small

a grocery store wearing nothing but a short

from a 10- to 15-mile comfort range to 18-

nicknames derived from a distinguishing

details about what life looked like outside

white fur coat, a pair of heels and a smile.

to 23-mile days. As the summer solstice

feature or a funny story. Other times they

the trail for these people. I heard stories

Another time, they took advantage of an

approached, I extended my peak mileage

were just picked by their owner. Patches

about crushing student debt, retirements,

amusement park ride. In my mind’s eye,

to a record 27 miles. As long as there was

earned his name by refusing to replace

jobs lost, plans for the future and more. I

she looked something like Tawny Kitaen

daylight, there was still time to walk.

his shredded rain jacket, choosing instead

never hiked for more than four days with

from the Whitesnake music video.

to patch it with duct tape, but Frank just

the same people: the understanding was

One night, after a fight, Lexie stormed

their own character. Pennsylvania had its

picked the name herself and it suited her.

that we were each completing our own

out of the house and took the last train into

long and rocky, but mostly flat, ridgelines;

hike. Eventually, we would part ways.

New York City to stay with her ex. Glacial

Connecticut was a roller coaster of steep

went to the train station and smashed off

climbs and descents in rapid succession;

her car mirrors with a tire iron.

New Jersey was gone in the blink of an eye.

It took until Vermont for me to get a trail name of my own. I was at the Seth

Sometimes, people opened up with

Warner Shelter, about 11 miles south of

surprising candor. That became apparent

Bennington with two hikers from Florida,

when I did a work-for-stay in the White

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At a hostel in Gorham, N.H., Glacial

I walked through nine states, each with

Vermont was my highly-biased favorite:

the perfect balance of challenge and

already shaving myself to a smaller and

empty lot where a bunch of local guys and

familiar toolbox, filled with well-worn

reward, accessible towns and seclusion.

harder version of myself. My cheekbones

girls reveled in a cornhole tourney. A flock

tools. I have taken inventory and started

New Hampshire’s Crawford Path through

projected over a three-month beard and

of some 50 pigeons swooped in figure-

to discard some that are now unnecessary.

the Presidentials was truly breath-taking

my eyes had a new sharpness and hunger.

eights overhead and it started to rain.

I’ve added replacements ready for use.

in its ruggedness.

The muscles in my shoulders, arms and

Twenty-four hours earlier, with the

Hiking some 1,167 miles taught me the

Each state also had its own variety

stomach had lost definition and my feet

night’s rain still dripping off the leaves,

limits of my control, and how to recognize

of shelters and campsites. New Jersey’s

were numb from the thick calluses over my

I had started up the 5.5 miles from the

empowerment. Some days are going to

privies were always stocked with new rolls

heels and toes. This was a body meant for

Birches Campsite to the Mount Katahdin

smack you with rain and gale-force winds

of toilet paper and Pennsylvania’s shelters

constant movement, constant carrying.

summit. I don’t remember the hike being

and while you can’t change the weather,

came in all sizes and dimensions. On a day

My body and mind were beginning

very difficult other than some technical

you can change your socks and take breaks

when the weather and the terrain conspired

to tire from what was starting to feel like

moves on the boulders in the middle two

for cocoa. Three months and six days

to dish out a double helping of knuckle

a routine. I came to expect the scrape

or three miles. At the tablelands, the

fostered a heightened sense of patience.

sandwich I found a secret hut. Heading

of hunger in my gut every morning and

climb eased and I pushed on the pace. At

On my long days, that word became my

north from Killington, most AT hikers

afternoon and the screaming lactic acid

8:55 a.m. on July 1, I had the top of Maine

mantra, chanted silently. The only time

will make for the Stony Brook Shelter or

burn that filled my legs on the climbs.

and the northern terminus of the trail to

was the time it took.

the Winturi Shelter 10 miles north. But a

Even food began to feel tedious. When

myself. I ate a celebratory Snickers bar and

It’s one thing to set a goal, but it’s

small side trail led me to a privately-owned

I saw more peanut butter in my resupply

called my parents. I sat in the wind for an

another to manage yourself as you pursue

cabin with four walls, windows and a porch

box, I nearly cried.

hour before climbing down. I retrieved my

it. This is the power of expectations. I’m

where I could stretch out my sore legs.

And despite the number of times the day

pack from the ranger station and caught

dead level with my expectations of what I

I left it cleaner than I found it for the

left me groaning in my sleeping bag, I was

a ride to Millinocket with a couple from

can accomplish in the time allocated and I

next tired campers. Should you come

absolutely enchanted by the remoteness

Quebec in their Vanagon.

try to be aware of what others expect of me

across the Lookout, I hope you do the same.

and wildness of the Maine woods. There

After a night’s rest, I was showered

in my role as a partner, brother, friend and

If Vermont and New Hampshire were

was no opportunity for resupply and

and ready for reentry. I was wearing a

son. I have a greater appreciation for the

a series of tough rounds in a boxing ring,

whatever I entered with would have to last

new t-shirt and drinking real coffee and

peace that my lifestyle affords me and for

western Maine delivered the knockout

the four to five days to Abol Bridge and the

waiting for 9 a.m. when I’d catch a bus to

the public lands that are (for now) open to

punch. I thought I had experienced the

final climb in Baxter State Park.

Bangor. I could feel myself slipping from

everyone. I’ve been told I laugh louder too.

trail’s

toughest

portions,

but

Maine

one state to the other; from hiker trash to

These days, I wake up early. I make tea

unemployed 20-something. I was in the

and sit on the couch in my running clothes.

Sitting on the second-floor balcony of the

plasmapause. By afternoon, I’d be another

When I’m ready, I step outside.

Appalachian Trail Hostel, I watched the

guy on a Greyhound headed somewhere

empty streets of Millinocket stir and turn

with a pack.

blindsided me with unrelenting climbs, no

EXPECT TO BE CHANGED

switchbacks, bridge-less river crossings and thunderstorms that felt like an artillery shelling.

As

I

entered

the

Hundred

Evan Johnson is a contributing editor and

Mile

over. The soft serve truck was parked where

Resuming a portion of the life I left

Wilderness at Monson, Maine, I was

it was yesterday evening, across from the

behind has brought challenges. It’s a

former staff writer for Vermont Sports.

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GAME-CHANGING GEAR THE GEAR SO GOOD, IT INSPIRED LOCAL EXPERTS TO CHANGE THEIR SETUPS

GEAR

BY ABAGAEL GILES

Big Agnes Air Core Ultra Sleeping Pad Osprey Eja 48

Nemo Disco MSR PocketRocket 2

Big Agnes Tiger Wall

Gregory 55-L Maven

Kammok Roo Hoka One One’s Speedgoat 2

B

ackpacking is a labor of love. It’s a

BACKPACKS

swears by the 48-L Osprey Exos

uniquely for people who sleep on their

sport that requires grit.

We asked Outdoor Gear Exchange’s

(men, $200) and Eja (women, $200)

tummy, side or with bent knees. At 2

Furthermore, what felt good at

Keckely Habel for her picks for new

as

weekend

lbs 12 oz. and 2 lbs 7 oz. respectively,

mile two of a 15-mile day may not feel so

packs and Gregory’s popular Maven

backpackers

experiment

and with a packed size of 18 inches by 9

good at mile 14. Tweaking a system that

(women) and Paragon (men) rose to the

with an ultralight backpacking kit. “It’s

inches, the “Spoon Shaped” bags are light

doesn’t quite work (or discovering a new

top. The 58-L Paragon ($229.95) and

a perfect melding of all the bells and

and compact enough for backpacking

gadget that you think will) can change

55-L Maven (229.95) feature Gregory’s

whistles and lightweight durability,” says

and comfy enough for car camping.

Aerolon suspension system, a lightweight

Johnson. At 2.3 pounds with a 40-pound

Thermo Gills on the bag’s surface allow

aluminum frame with breathable mesh

carrying capacity, the 48-liter pack

for ventilation and the footbox is lined

that can suspend a 50-pound load while

maintains an effective but lightweight

with waterproof material to protect your

keeping the overall pack weight to 3.9 and

suspension system that uses mesh to lift

feet from tent condensation. According

3.6 pounds respectively. The real game

the weight away from your spine, while

to OGE’s Habel, the features work.

changer?

low-profile

keeping it close so it doesn’t cause you to

“The material is just incredibly soft and

daypack doubles as a waterproof stuff

wobble on the trail. There’s also a feature

durable,” says Habel, who recommended

sack, so you can ditch your pack at your

that lets you stow your hiking poles on

the 30-degree model for fall backpacking.

backpacking destination to bag a peak in

the shoulder strap, in front where you

There is also a zip pocket and a stuff-able

comfort. “This really is the perfect pack

can reach them without removing the

pillow pocket.

if you want something lightweight for the

pack.

the whole course of a camping trip, but it’s also a big investment. Often it takes getting out on a trail for many miles to determine whether a piece of gear will work for you, and if it doesn’t, you’re stuck with it.

To find out what works and what

doesn’t, we talked to ultra-runners, Appalachian

Trail

thru-hikers,

wilderness therapy guides, weekend backpackers and more to get a sense for what the latest experience-altering gear is. The goal? To find out what new-fangled gadgets work really well and which ones you should leave at home.

24 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

The

removable

hike to your destination but want to bring

excellent

options looking

for to

Underneath, you may want the Big

Agnes Air Core Ultra ($59.95). This

some fun things with you and dayhike

SLEEPING SYSTEMS

from there,” says Habel.

In 2017, Nemo released its Disco (men)

been revamped to be more durable than

and Rave (women) sleeping bag series

its predecessor, the Air Core. New heat

($259.95),

reflective technology keeps you warmer

For an ultralight pack, Matt Johnson

of The Mountain Goat in Manchester.

technical

warm-weather sleeping pad has recently

sleeping

bags

MEET THE EXPERTS WHO KNOWS MORE ABOUT GEAR THAN THESE FOLKS?

(down to 35 degrees Fahrenheit) with

stoves like MSR’s Whisperlite series. The

less material than the original and

new burner also features a windshield

aviation-grade lamination makes it even

and pot arms designed to better grip

more durable (that’s right the stuff that

pot bottoms and reduce tipping. The

seals airplanes). At 18 oz, the pad packs

new stove folds down even smaller than

down to the size of a coffee thermos.

the original product and boils one liter

With a thickness of 3.25 inches, it’s like

of water in just 3.5 minutes. “This stove

sleeping on an ultralight water floaty. It’s

fits right in your hand and is probably

best used with Big Agnes’ Pumphouse

smaller and weighs less than the gas

Ultra ($34.95), a 2.9-oz. inflation pump

you’re carrying for it,” says Matt Johnson.

that doubles as a waterproof stuff sack or backcountry shower. For an extra three

FOOTWEAR

ounces, you can get an insulated four-

According to two of our experts, Long

season version.

Trail fastest-known-time record holder

Alyssa Godesky and Sara Falconer,

THE SHELTER

Skirack’s

resident

footwear

expert,

“A lot of people are going toward

high cushion trail runners are the next

hammocks for sleeping these days,” says

big thing when it comes to footwear for

Alex Jinks of Onion River Outdoors.

mountain running and backpacking.

He recommends the Hennessy brand.

Both recommended Hoka One One’s

However, if you are heading off into

Speedgoat 2 ($140) for trail running,

the wild or just car camping with your

weekend backpacking trips, day hiking

significant other, the new Kammock

and longer trips. At 8- to 10-oz depending

Roo ($99) will keep two of you comfy,

on size, the shoe is lightweight but durable

if a bit snug. Even though it’s a massive

and features improved foot stability over

10 feet long and 5 feet, 7 inches wide

the Speedgoat 1. Vibram lugs on the

and can handle up to 500 pounds, the

tread resist slippage on granite slabs,

hammock stuffs down in its attached

muddy trails and wet schist, even with a

sack to something slightly larger than

heavy pack. “It’s not as technical as other

a grapefruit. The Python Suspension

shoes on the market for steep running

Straps will set you back another $29 and

trail descents, but it will keep your feet

if you’re making this a tent alternative,

comfortable for 15 miles with a load,” says

you may want a Kammock Kuhli Tarp

Falconer, who likes it for backpacking.

($159) too.

This shoe is great for the Long Trail and

If a traditional tent is more your

is a favorite of our resident Appalachian

style, the Big Agnes Tiger Wall UL

Trail thru-hiker, Evan Johnson (see p.

2 ($399.95) offers ultralight weight

18) and myself, from my time working

and packability with the structure of

as a backcountry caretaker in New

a traditional tent. At 2 lb. 3 oz., it’s Big

Hampshire.

Agnes’ lightest two-door, two-vestibule tent yet. It packs down to a 5.5 x 18-inch

GADGETS

tube. Between the easy-to-pitch single

“Since prices have come down, we have

pole design and eyebrow pull, which gives

people in our shop asking about portable

it a peak of 38 inches, the tent offers all of

charging equipment all the time,” says

the features you’d expect from a heavier

Alex Jinks of Onion River Outdoors.

option, including ripstop nylon durability

and waterproofing, at an ultralight

phone (or your headlamp) out of your

weight. Ultralight gear has a reputation

Luci Pro: Outdoor 2.0 + Mobile

for being less durable, but Big Agnes

Charging unit ($34.95). This 5.5-

is known for making rock-solid tents

oz collapsible camp lantern features a

that last forever and are super durable.

two-way USB port and solar panel that

According to Habel, it’s worth a splurge.

charges in 14 hours under direct sunlight.

One charge will top off a smartphone

STOVE Last

New this year, you can charge your

battery by 50 percent in two to three year,

MSR

unveiled

the

hours. It straps easily to your backpack

PocketRocket 2 ($44.95), a smaller,

and comes with a one-year warranty.

lighter (2.6 oz) version of the celebrated

It’s also completely waterproof and

original that includes a simmer function,

packs down to a disc the size of a coffee

something previously only available in

coaster. “It’s lightweight and compact

heavier, more expensive non-canister

enough for hiking and it’s waterproof. It

Lynda DeWitt, Umiak Outdoor Outfitters, Stowe Lynda DeWitt is a long time hiker, trail runner and Nordic skier. She loves competing in her canoe marathons and doing agility training and skijoring with her border collie, Tess, who once accompanied her on a solo Long Trail section hike.

Sara Falconer, Skirack, Burlington Sara grew up running and skiing in Anchorage, Alaska.

She has coached for the Mansfield Nordic Club and Mount Mansfield Union Cross Country Running team and loves trail running, hiking and camping. She’s been charged by a moose twice and is now an expert bush diver.

Keckeley Habel, Outdoor Gear Exchange, Burlington Keckeley grew up in Kallispell, Montana where she started backpacking in elementary school in Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall Wilderness. In 2017, she thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail, where she fell in love with New England’s exposed, rocky ridges. Her gear mantra: “You have to be willing to let gear go if it’s not working for you, even if it’s the best gear on the market.”

Sam Hewitt, Skirack, Burlington Sam is a lifelong gear guy with an MS in Exercise and Sport Science from Penn State and over 20 years of experience in research and development of footwear. He runs, bikes, swims and skis.

Peter Hoops, Vermont Trailwear, Waterbury Center Peter has worked in gear for several years and is an avid snowboarder, angler, hiker and mountain biker. He likes gear that serves multiple uses and knows a thing or two about staying dry in wet weather.

Ned Houston, Vermont Trailwear, Waterbury Center Ned is an avid kayaker, hiker and skier and loves gear that is lightweight and appropriate for multiple activities.

Alex Jinks, Onion River Outdoors, Montpelier Alex spent five years living outdoors 225 days a year as a wilderness therapy instructor, where he thoroughly vetted a lot of outdoor gear. He swears by hammocks for a good night’s sleep and loves hiking.

Matt Johnson, The Mountain Goat, Manchester Matt moved to Colorado to ski bum for a season and stayed for 14 years. He hikes and camps and loves Osprey’s ultralight packs because they help he and his wife shed bulk while hiking and backpacking around the state with their two young kids.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 25

The Petzl Reactik + Luci Pro: Outdoor 2.0 + Mobile Charging unit

Patagonia Cloud Ridge Jacket

Royal Robbins Bug Barrier Expedition Long Sleeve

GoalZero Flip 30 Power Bank

Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System

even floats so will be part of my evening

Hewitt of Skirack. With up to 300 lumens

to almost nothing. A single EZ-Clean,

it’s treated with Permethrin, a synthetic

kayak adventures…Frankly, it’s a great

of power, this rechargeable headlamp

removable filter cartridge ($24.95) fits a

version of the chrysanthemum-based

emergency tool. Everyone needs at least

adjusts its brightness and beam width

gravity-fed system designed to fill water

pesticide pyrethrum, and will repel ticks

one Luci light!” says Ned Houston of

automatically based on Petzl’s reactive

bottles overnight.

for up to 70 washes.

Vermont Trailwear.

lighting technology. The same technology

According to Peter Hoops of Vermont

allows it to maximize battery life better

APPAREL

SHADES

Trailwear, most of his backpacker friends

than in past models. Unlike the Reactik,

There’s nothing worse than feeling

It’s hard to find polarized sunglasses that

and coworkers are ditching solar panels

this model can be programmed using the

clammy in your rain gear. Patagonia’s

stay put and look as good at an outdoor

for rechargeable battery packs. For a

MyPetzl Light Mobile App to change the

Cloud Ridge Jacket ($249) features

concert as they do on the trail. Sunski’s

weekend trip, the GoalZero Flip 30

auto adjust settings to those designed

H2No Performance Standard waterproof

Dipseas and Foothills ($55) are just

Power Bank ($29.95) will hold all

for trail running, mountaineering, or

breathable fabric in a three-layer (think

two of the company’s non-gender binary

the power you need to recharge two

backpacking, or your own custom setting.

dry and durable) rain coat. At 13.8 oz, it

styles. Select models are made from

headlamps and two smartphones or

The battery lasts for about 5 hours

comes with a stuff sack and packs down to

recycled plastics and Sunski plans to

cameras, without the bulk of a solar array.

at 170 lumens (standard lighting for

the size of a Nalgene bottle. The pockets

make all their shades this way by 2020.

It can even charge a tablet. At 6.8 oz and

backpacking) and the headlamp weighs

are even designed to be accessible while

The company makes sportier models

3.7 inches long and 2.4 inches across, it

in at 115 grams. It is comfortable, light

wearing a backpack with a hip belt.

with a more aggressive base curve, but

won’t take up a lot of space. Charge it up

and reliable. You can even swap out AAA

Our testers say it withstood the test of

these shades have withstood the test

at home with a USB or connect it with

batteries for the rechargeable one.

a multi-week backpacking trip in Peru.

of many trips up and down trails in the

“This jacket really is both waterproof and

White Mountains with a packboard, ski

durable,” says Peter Hoops of Vermont

tours in the High Sierra, a rafting trip

one of goal zero’s solar panels for power

Sunski Dipseas

on a longer excursion. For a heavier,

WATER TREATMENT

weatherproof

GoalZero’s

“This is probably the product I am the most

Trail Wear adding that it is thick enough

down the Grand Canyon, daily runs and

Venture 30. The Flip 20 offers the perfect

stoked about for this year,” says Keckeley

to serve as a four-season piece. Did we

countless multi-pitch rock climbs (think

amount of power for one person on a

Habel of OGE as she points to Katadyn’s

mention it’s recyclable and made from

lots of scraping against granite).

weekend trip.

BeFree Water Filtration System

recycled materials?

The real game changer is Sunski’s

The Petzl Reactik + ($109.95)

($24.95). The system is unparalleled for

If

is the headlamp of the future. “I love

its packability, 3.2-ounce weight and the

Lynda

this headlamp. With 300 lumens, you can see for at least 100 yards to figure

option,

try

you,

eco-friendly warranty program. Broken

Outdoor

hinges, cracked frames, damage from

rate at which you can move water through

Outfitters recommends the new Royal

running into a tree are all covered

it. With a flow rate of 2 liters per minute,

Robbins Bug Barrier Expedition

(running over them with a car is not).

out what the noise outside your tent

it leaves other squeeze and gravity filters

Long Sleeve ($85.00). This wicking,

Furthermore, if you scratch your (plastic)

was or make it to the outhouse through

in the dust. Another plus? The HydraPak

thermoregulating

in

lenses, they will send you a repair kit with

the woods, but it dims so you can read

bags it uses are more durable than most

men’s and women’s styles and features

brand new ones for $12, no questions

without blinding yourself,” says Sam

bladders on the market and pack down

InsectShield Technology, which means

asked.

26 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

Lyme

disease

DeWitt

of

concerns Umiak

shirt

comes

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RUN – BIKE – HIKE Coventry to West Glover, Vermont

HALF MARATHON 10k, 5k run... September 23 • 10am Branbury State Park on beautiful Lake Dunmore

Hosted by Kingdom Games, Lakeview Aviation and Parker Pie – Supporting The Halo Foundation

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AUGUST 11-13

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28 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

VERMONT

SPORTS

RACE & EVENT GUIDE

LISTING YOUR EVENT IN THIS CALENDAR IS FREE AND EASY. VISIT VTSPORTS.COM/ SUBMIT-AN-EVENT OR E-MAIL EDITOR@ VTSPORTS.COM. ALL AREA CODES ARE 802.

ALL LOCATIONS ARE IN VERMONT, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED. FEATURED EVENTS, IN YELLOW, PAY A NOMINAL FEE.

RUNNING SEPTEMBER 1 | Northfield Savings Bank 5K, Northfield This year's 40th annual NSB 5K foot race benefits the Vermont Foodbank. cvrunners.org 1 | 3rd Annual Mount Ascutney Rainbow Run, Mount Ascutney Run, walk or hike Ascutney Trails during peak foliage for this 5K or 10K outing for all ages. ascutneyoutdoors.org.

2 | 50th Archie Post 5-Miler, Burlington This certified point-to-point course follows the South Burlington Bike Path which offers sweeping views and finishes at Gutterson Field House. cvrunners.org 1-2 | 7th Annual Trail Running Festival, Jay Peak The 7th Annual Trail Running Festival has a series of trail races ranging from 5Ks to 50Ks. jaypeaktrailrun.com 8 | Maple Leaf Half Marathon & Kotler 5K, Stratton Run from downtown Manchester through picturesque villages on country roads. manchestervtmapleleaf.com 8 | Groton Forest Trail Run, Groton Choose between a 26.2-mile course and a 15.2-mile course on Groton State Forest’s technical singletrack and multiuse hiking trails. runvermont.org

8 | Charlotte Covered Bridge 5K/10K/Half Marathon, Charlotte All race routes begin and end at Shelburne Beach. Run past lakefront orchards on dirt roads before returning to Shelburne Beach. racevermont.com 8 | SPROUTY Run, Sharon Run a 10K or walk/run a 5K along the White River on dirt and gravel roads. There will be prizes, food and live music.

Runsignup.com 9 | Stride For Pride, Burlington This 5K takes you along Burlington’s waterfront with views of the ADKs. All proceeds support the Pride Center of Vermont. pridecentervt.org 12 | Sodom Pond 4-Miler, Calais A rolling 4-mile dirt road course looping around Sodom Pond with hills. runvermont.org 14 | ShoeFly Trail Running Festival, East Burke This event welcomes runners and walkers to try 50K, 12-hour, 24 hour solo/team relay, 25K, 10K, 5K or 1-mile races. trailrunner.com 15 | Common to Common 30K, Essex This 30K winds through scenic farm country between Essex Center and Westford Common. gmaa.net 15 | The Vermont Great 2.4.6.8K, Rutland Walk, do a 2K or 4K of the relay or run the whole 8K in downtown Rutland. Proceeds benefit the RRMC Foley Cancer Center. rrmc.org 15 | 24 Hours of the Northeast Kingdom, East Charlestown Starting at Northwoods Stewardship Center, this course has a beautiful and rugged setting on a 3.1 mile loop Choose between a 12-hour, or a 24-hour race or do the race as a relay. ultrasignup.com

16 | 7th Chris Ludington Memorial Run, Stowe Choose between a challenging 5K out-and-back run or a 10K on the trails of Trapp Family Lodge. trappfamily.com 16 | TAM Trek, Middlebury The TAM Trek is a trail race and fun run to raise funds for the Trail Around Middlebury (TAM). Events include 19mile and 10K runs and a 2-mile family fun run. maltvt.org 22-23 | Adirondack Marathon Distance Festival, Schroon Lake Choose between a marathon, a half marathon, a 5K, 10K, or a 1K kids fun run and relays for this weekend of running in the beautiful Adirondacks. adirondackmarathon.org 23 | Vermont Sun Half Marathon, Branbury State Park This beautiful trail run winds around streams and lakes in the Green Mountains and offers 5K, 10K, and half marathon courses. vermontsuntriathlonseries.com 23 | Trapp Cabin Trail Race, Stowe Choose between a 5K, 10K, and half-marathon distances.

All races start and end at the Trapp Family Lodge meadow and wind through 800 vertical feet of forest on dirt roads and doubletrack cross country ski trails. active.com 23 | 5th Annual Island Vines 10K, South Hero Entry in this annual 10K race earns you two wine samples from Snow Farm Vineyard post-race. runvermont.org 29 | Front Porches Half Marathon, Bellows Falls A half marathon that runs through the village of Bellows Falls and along the Connecticut. vtfrontporcheshalf.com 29 | Run for The Heart, Morrisville Copley Hospital organizes a 5K run at Oxbow Park, which connects to the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail. Runners will follow the rail trail back to the finish. copleyvt.org

West Hill Grinder Sunday, Sept 23rd High Meadows Farm Putney, Vermont

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 29

29 | Miles for Migraine Run, South Burlington A 2-mile walk, 5K and 10K runs at Veterans Memorial Park.

Fundraiser for migraine advocacy. raceroster.com/17654

7 | Ripton Ridge Run, Ripton The Ripton Elementary School hosts its annual fundraiser with a 5K run, 10.4K run and a noncompetitive 5K walk.

All courses start and finish at the school. Riptonridgerun. addisoncentralsu.org

30 | Vermont Craft Beer Half Marathon, St. Albans This half marathon follows the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail. with a post-race festival and beer tasting. runvermont.org

11 | 29029, Stratton Run/walk/crawl up Stratton Mountain. Take the gondola down. Repeat 17 times until you climb 29,029 feet, the heigh of Mt. Everest. A running festival, too. Stratton.com

30 | Leaf Peepers Half Marathon, Waterbury Both courses run through Waterbury and up Perry Hill for spectacular views of fall foliage and occasional forays on dirt trails. leafpeepershalfmarathon.org

13 | Westmore Mountain Challenge, Westmore This mountain marathon takes hikers 26 miles over 5 mountains through beautiful scenery of the Northeast Kingdom and supports Northwoods Stewardship Center's conservation programs. northwoodscenter.org

30 | Vermont 50, Mount Ascutney This race benefits Vermont Adaptive Ski and Sports and offers a 50-mile mountain bike race, a 50-mile ultra run, a team relay, and a kids fun run. vermont50.com

13 | Trapp Lodge Mountain Marathon, Stowe This annual race—either a half or full marathon—takes runners through colorful fall foliage at the Trapp Family Lodge trails. trappmountainmarathon.com

30 | Fly To Pie Kingdom Marathon Kingdom Games’ 26.2-mile running (and bike) pointto point race follows dirt roads through “the gut” of the Northeast Kingdom. 17-, 13.5-, and 6-mile, run, bike, or hike options. kingdomgames.co

13 | The CircumBurke: Marathon Trail Run and MTB Challenge, Burke A mountain bike or trail run marathon hosted by Kingdom Trails, Burke Mountain, and Victory Hill. A difficult and scenic 27-mile circuit on logging roads. circumburke.org

OCTOBER 6 | Stark Mountain Hill Climb/Run, Fayston Run from the base lodge to the summit of Stark Mountain, as part of Mad River Glen’s Green and Gold Weekend. madriverglen.com

13 | Shelburne Farms 5K, Shelburne Farms This 5K takes you past Lake Champlain and through farms, trails and fields. A classic race that proves to be one of the most popular and scenic in the region. racevermont.com

6 | Art Tudhope 10K, Charlotte A fast out-and-back course on dirt and paved roads past orchards, and through a covered bridge. gmaa.net

14 | Green Mountain Marathon and Half Marathon, South Hero A marathon or half marathon along the shores of Lake Champlain past cottages and orchards. cvrunners.org

7 | North Face Race to the Summit Stratton Mountain Resort hosts a race to the summit of the tallest mountain in southern Vermont, a distance of 2.08 miles with an elevation gain of 2,003 feet. stratton.com

NOVEMBER

7 | Harpoon Oktberfest Race, Windsor Harpoon Brewery holds this annual 3.6-mile road race, followed by an Oktoberfest. Proceeds benefit the Friends of Norris Cotton Cancer Center. harpoonoctoberfestrace.com

4 | Fall 5K/10K and Half Marathon, Shelburne Choose from a 5K, 10K or half marathon for this route, which was recognized in 2014 by active.com as one of the nine most scenic in New England. racevermont.com

BIKING SEPTEMBER 1 | Redemption Gravel Race, Brownington Choose between 100-mile and 50-mile race routes on rugged Vermont gravel roads. A self-supported race that cyclists navigate for themselves. Those who make it back earn a seat at the pig roast with plenty of cold beer and live music. rasputistagravel.com 7 | Grand Prix Cycliste de Quebec, Quebec The UCI WorldTour event attracts some of the greatest cyclists in the world, and runs through the heart of Quebec City over hilly terrain. Riders complete 16 laps with steep descents and finish with a big hill climb. The race is 201 km long. gpcqm.ca 8 | 13th Annual Kelly Brush Ride, Middlebury Register to ride 20, 50 or 100 miles through the scenic Champlain Valley. Registration and any fundraising done by participants helps people with spinal cord injuries afford adaptive athletic equipment. kellybrushfoundation.org 9 | Cabot Ride the Ridges, Cabot This fun and challenging mostly dirt gravel/road bike ride goes through the rugged but scenic hills of Cabot and Peacham. It offers fully supported 10K, 30K, 60K and 100K loops. The races are followed by lunch and Kingdom Creamery ice cream. ridetheridges.net 9 | Grand Prix Cycliste de Montreal, Montreal This UCI WorldTour event attracts some of the greatest cyclists in the world, and runs through the heart of Montreal. This challenging course climbs Mount Royal and features a demanding hill climb as part of each lap. The race is a total of 205K long. gpcqm.ca 16 | 11th Annual Tour de Farms, Vergennes Eat your way around the Champlain Valley in this scenic road ride. The tour features a 30-mile route and a 10-mile route, with 6 farm stops. Over 30 local farms, businesses and restaurants participate. acornvt.org/tourdefarms

7 | Mad Dash, Waitsfield, Vt. Runners support the Mad River Path with a 10K and 5K race. Community lunch follows. madriverpath.com

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15-16 | Enduro World Series North American Finals, Burke Amateur mountain bikers race with the nation’s top pros for a chance to qualify for the Worlds. Followed by a night of beer, barbecue, and music. skiburke.com

13 | Peacham Fall Fondo, Peacham A Northeast Kingdom classic with 50-plus miles of gravel riding on mixed terrain through fall foliage in the mountains. Pro cyclist and Tour de France racer Ian Boswell will lead the grind. peachamfallfondo.com

20 | West Hill Grinder, Putney Five different challenging to moderate loops take you through the scenic towns of Putney, Brookline and Westminster. The Putney Coop will be providing food for after the race. bikereg.com

13 | CircumBurke Trail Challenge, East Burke Choose between 27- and 50-mile mountain bike routes in this Northeast Kingdom classic at Burke Mountain. This tough annual race moves through rugged forests and hills and includes an enduro race. circumburke.org

22 | Tardigrade 50, Bristol A 50-mile gravel ride over beautiful terrain during the Bristol Harvest Festival. granfondoguide.com

21 | Vermont Forest Fondo, Lincoln This challenging gravel grinder will leave you with mud on your face. The 45-mile route climbs class 4 roads to pass through Ripton with 6,400 feet of climbing.

Mountain, cyclocross, gravel or fat bikes are recommended. vtforestfondo.com

23 | 4th Dam Wrightsville Cyclocross, Wrightsville All bikes are welcome in this spectator-friendly race whose course features “bunny-hop-able” barriers, sand and a “spiral of death.” There is also an intro cyclocross clinic, a kids race, a singlespeed and fat bike open. bikereg.com 24 | Central Vermont Cycling Tour, Montpelier This classic race and scenic fundraiser for Cross Vermont Trail boasts unbroken scenery and great food stop. Choose between a 13-mile family-friendly loop or a 59-mile loop with 6,000 feet of elevation gain. crossvermont.org 29 | Hungry Lion Bike Tour, WhitinghamHalifaxWhitingham Lions Club sponsors 5-, 35-, 50-, 75- mile road rides or a 25-mile gravel grinder. All rides are fully supported with a post-race party. hungrylionniketour.com 30 | Vermont 50, Mount Ascutney This race benefits Vermont Adaptive Ski and Sports and offers a 50-mile mountain bike race, a 50-mile ultra run, a team relay, and a kids fun run. vermont50.com

OCTOBER 6 | 3rd A Braintree 357 Gravel Enduro, Braintree A cloverleaf-shaped course tackles class 3 gravel roads.

Rides range from 18 to 50 miles, with 2,700 to 8,000 feet of elevation gain. braintree357.com 7 | Allen Clark Hill Climb, Waitsfield Climb 1,600 vertical feet in 6.2 miles from Route 100 to the top of the Appalachian Gap. ahillclimb.org

27 | 3rd Annual Grafton Cheese Grater Gravel Ride, Grafton A challenging gravel grinder that departs from the Grafton Trails & Outdoor Center, then heads west to Windham for a cheese pit stop. The race is a 36-mile ride. graftoninnvermont.com

OBSTACLE COURSE and OTHER SEPTEMBER 2-9 | PDGA Professional Disc Golf World Championship, Smugglers’ Notch The most prestigious competition in the sport is held at Smugglers’ Notch Disc Golf Center on Brewster Ridge and Fox Run Meadows courses during FallFest. smuggs.com 15-16 | Spartan Race, Killington Test your mettle with these legendary obstacle-laden running races at Killington. Run 30+, 12+, or 3+ miles through water, mud, and steep terrain. spartan.com 15-16 | NYSEF Rollerski Race Weekend, Lake Placid The weekend-long, multi-race event culminates in a 5-mile rollerski race up Whiteface Memorial Highway—a climb of4,867 feet over an average 8 percent grade. nensa.net

MULTI-SPORT / TRIATHLON

21-23 | Intl. Downhill Federation World Cup Tour, Killington The world’s fastest, high-speed skateboarders return to Killington to race. Killington.com

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

15 | Metallak Race, Colebrook, NH An annual, multi-sport endurance race brings adventurers to the remote but rugged spaces of northern Coos County, NH. Choose from 8-hour or 4-hour divisions and mountain bike, trek and paddle a challenging course that is clearly marked. metallakrace.com

5 | LoveYourBrain Annual Golf Tournament, Enfield, NH Join LoveYourBrain for their second annual golf tournament. Funds raised support LYB’s mission to improve the quality of life of people affected by traumatic brain injury (TBI) through programs that build community and educate youth about mindfulness and TBI prevention. loveyourbrain.com/golf/

16 | Josh Billings Triathlon, Stockbridge, Mass.

Teams and individuals complete a 27-mile bike ride, a 5-mile paddle, and 6-mile run through the Berkshires.

There is also a kids race. joshbillings.com 23 | Winooski Pedal and Paddle, Winooski Participants drop their boats off in Winooski, head to the Ethan Allen Homestead then bike the 4 miles back to Winooski and paddle back to the homestead. Food and live music follow. winooskiriver.org

13 | NENSA Fall Rollerski Classic, Camp Ethan Allen Opt for either a 5K or a 10K loop in this fun fall event hosted by the Mt. Mansfield Nordic Club and Ethan Allen Biathlon Club. nensa.net

Fast, Friendly, No Attitude BICYCLE SERVICE

- SALES & DEMO -

4081 MOUNTAIN ROAD, STOWE, VT 802-253-4531 • MOUNTAINOPSVT.COM

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 31

IKE SHOPS

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ALPINE BIKE WORKS

2326 US Route 4 Killington VT 802-773-0000

We offer bicycles from Giant, Liv, Ibis and Yeti for road, gravel, mountain and gravity, plus accessories and apparel and an extensive inventory of service parts. Custom fitting and expert technicians offering everything from tuneups to in-house suspension service. Mountain and DH rentals.

ALPINE SHOP

1184 Williston Rd. So. Burlington VT 802-862-2714

ALPINE SHOP V

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AlpineShopVT.com Hours: Mon – Sat 10 – 6; Sun 10 – 5 (Hours change seasonally) In operation since 1963, we specialize in mountain, hybrid and commuter bikes from Norco, Felt, Devine and Rossignol, Alpine Shop is a full service Bike Shop with ample parking & riding space.

Rental and demo bikes available. Stylish clothing for men and women plus gear, shoes and apparel for tennis.

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BELGEN CYCLES

24 Bridge St, Richmond VT 802-434-4876 belgencycles.com Hours: Mon – Sat 10:30 – 6:30, Closed Sundays Belgen Cycles offers custom and stock bicycles supported by 40 years of hands on experience.

Focused on the right bike for you covering the spectrum from road to ‘cross and mountain to fat with selections from Salsa, Xprezo, Moots, Parlee, Litespeed, Lynskey and Soma. Full service maintenance and repair as well as fitting solutions. In business as Village Bicycle in Richmond for 19 years.

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A full service shopnear Smugglers Notch.

Offering new, used and custom bikes, as 4 well as custom wheel builds for mountain, road, gravel, fat bikes, backpacking and touring. Rentals offered at our Cambridge Junction shop on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail. Bikes are a passion here.

CHUCK’S BIKES

45 Bridge St. Morrisville VT 802-888-7642 chucksbikes802.com Hours: Mon – Fri 9 – 5:30, Sat 9 – 3, closed Sun Putting smiles on people’s faces for over 35 years.

Bikes by Jamis,Transition, Norco, KHS, Surly, Raleigh, Marin and Diamondback.

CLAREMONT CYCLE

12 Plains Rd. Claremont NH 603.542.BIKE (2453)

Hours: Mon 8:30-5:30, Tues

- Fri 10:30 - 5:30, Sat 10:30 - 4, closed Sun ClaremontCycle.com

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bootleggerbikes.com

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60 Main St Jeffersonville, VT 802-644-8370

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We are a full service bike shop at the base of the Mt. Greylock State reservation. We also border a beautiful 12 mile, paved rail trail. We carry Jamis, Rocky Mtn. and GT. We offer sales, repairs, and hybrid bike rentals for the rail trail.

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RR 8, 169 Grove St. Adams , MA 413-743- 5900

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berkout@bcn.net

alpinebikeworks.com Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5

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BERKSHIRE OUTFITTERS

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AROUND VERMONT

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We are a true bike shop where customer satisfaction is top priority and staff is enthusiastic, knowledgeable and friendly. Everyone who walks through our door is welcomed into our diverse bike community. We bring people from all walk of life and ages that share the same love and passion for cycling.

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COWBELL MOBILE BIKE SHOP

25-mile radius around Burlington VT 802-373-3411 cowbellbike.com

Cowbell is Vermont’s first full service bike shop in a van. No more waiting around to get your bike tuned up. Just book an appointment and Cowbell shows up and you ride the same day. Todd the owner and operator has 23 yeas of experience and arrives with van full of parts and accessories. More then just a rolling bike shop...

Cowbell also offers Corporate Visits, Ride Support and Bike Maintenance Classes.

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EAST BURKE SPORTS

439 Route 114 East Burke VT 802-626-3215 eastburkesports.com Hours: 9 - 6 every day We are the original home to Kingdom Trails. Located in the heart of town, we pride ourselves in expert knowledge while providing friendly customer service. A full service shop awaits you and your repair needs. We have 100 rental bikes with an enormous selection of clothing, parts, and accessories.

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10 FROG HOLLOW BIKES 14 74 Main Street Middlebury VT 802-388-6666

froghollowbikes.com Mon - Sat 9:30-5:30, Sun. 11–4 The most advanced and courteous service in our region, including a quick turn-around. We offer the best in new and used road, mountain, lifestyle, and children’s bikes and new gear. We carry brands that offer superior products that balance innovation and performance with reliability and value.

MOUNTAIN 11 GREEN BIKES 105 N. Main St. Rochester VT 800-767-7882

greenmountainbikes.com 7 days a week, 10 – 6 Located in the center of Vermont, we are surrounded by terrain that calls to mountain and road bikers alike. Whether you ride twisting trails or back to back gaps, we service, sell, and rent all styles of bicycles, featuring Kona, Jamis, Juliana, Raleigh, Santa Cruz, Transition, and Hinderyckx bikes. So STOP READING and RIDE YOUR BIKE!

322 N Winooski Ave Burlington, VT 802-863-4475 oldspokeshome.com Mon - Sat 10 - 6, Sun 12 - 6

Vermont’s best selection of refurbished used bikes and new bikes for touring, bike packing, commuting, fat biking, and simply getting around town. Named one of the country’s best bike shops for its “plain-talk advice and no-nonsense service.”

A non-profit as of January 2015, Old Spokes Home uses 100% of its revenue to run programs creating access to bikes in the community.

15 OMER & BOB’S 20 Hanover St. Lebanon NH 603-448-3522

omerandbobs.com Mon.–Fri. 9 – 6, Sat. 9 – 5 Closed Sun The Upper Valley’s bike shop since 1964. Road bikes, mountain bikes and kids bikes from specialty brands including Trek, Specialized and Colnago. Featuring a full service department offering bike fitting, bike rentals and a kids’ trade-in, trade-up program.

12 HIGH PEAKS CYCLERY 16

2733 Main St. Lake Placid NY 518-523-3764

highpeakscyclery.com Mon – Fri 9 – 6, Sun 9 – 5 Lake Placid’s source for bicycling and outdoor gear since 1983! Sales, Service, Rentals and Tours. Bikes

by Intense, BMC, Salsa, Surly, Giant and Scott. Your information headquarters for Lake Placid and the Adirondacks for all types of riding adventures. Free maps. ADK80 and Ironman race info and course conditions. New! Basecamp Lodges

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MOUNTAINOPS

4081 Mountain Rd Stowe VT 802-253-4531 mountainopsvt.com Mon - Sat 9 - 6, Sun till 5 MountainOps offers bike sales and service, fast and friendly with no attitude. We sell a full line Rocky Mountain Bikes for all abilities and riding styles. Tons of clothing and accessories in our converted 1893 barn. Our techs have decades of experience with all types of bike and our staff’s knowledge of local trails is awesome. We rent cruisers and performance mountain bikes for Stowe’s sweet collection of trails.

OLD SPOKES HOME

ONION RIVER OUTDOORS

20 Langdon St. Montpelier, VT 802-225-6736

onionriver.com M/W/Th 10-6, Fri 10-6:30, Sat 9-5, Sun 10-4, Closed Tues Gear, clothing, and expert advice for all your hiking, biking, running, camping, outdoor adventures! Friendly, knowledgeable bicycle and car rack sales and service. Check out onionriver. com to learn about all our fun events and clinics.

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OUTDOOR GEAR EXCHANGE

37 Church St. Burlington VT 802-860-0190 gearx.com Mon – Thurs 10 – 8, Fri – Sat 10 – 9, Sun 10 – 6 A premier bike shop with a knowledgeable, friendly, and honest staff. Commuters and gravel grinders from Marin and KHS, mountain bikes from Pivot, Transition, Rocky Mountain, and Yeti, and a wide consignment selection and demo fleet. Our service department is capable of everything from tuning your vintage road bike to servicing your new mountain bike.

18 POWER PLAY SPORTS

35 Portland St. Morrisville VT 802-888-6557 powerplaysports.com Mon – Fri 9 – 6, Sat 8:30 – 5, Sun 10 – 4 North Central Vermont’s Trek and Giant Dealer. With over 200 new and used bikes PPS has a bike for everyone. Service and rentals too!

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SKIRACK

85 Main St. Burlington VT 802-658-3313 skirack.com Mon.–Sat. 10am–7pm, Sun. 11am–5pm Locally owned since 1969, Skirack provides gear, clothing, expert fitting and accessories for all cyclists, with full service tuning and repairs...plus complete bike suspension service on most forks and rear shocks.

Open 8am Mon-Sat for service, car racks and rentals.

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STARK MOUNTAIN BIKE WORKS

9 RTE 17 Waitsfield VT 802-496-4800 Find us on Facebook Tues - Fri 9 - 6 * Close at 5 on Thursdays for Shop ride.

Sat 9 - 4, Sun 9 - 1, closed on Mon. Located at the lowest spot in the Mad River Valley so you can coast in when you break your bike on a ride! 20 years of advise, directions and fixing anything that pedals. You know you want a Yeti. Come try one!

21 WATERBURY SPORTS

46 South Main St. Waterbury VT 802-882-8595

waterburysportsvt.com Mon – Thurs 10 – 6, Fri - Sat 9 – 7, Sun 10 – 4 WBS sells Trek and Giant bikes of every flavor from high-end mountain bikes to kids, hybrids and cross bikes. Our service techs are among the best in northern VT. We also rent and Demo from our downtown location right near the Perry Hill Trails.

22 WEST HILL BIKE SHOP

49 Brickyard Ln. Putney VT 802-387-5718 westhillshop.com Mon – Sat 10 – 6

Since 1971, we’ve been a low-key, friendly source for bikes ‘n gear, service and rare wisdoms. Known for problem-solving techs and bike fitters who specialize in comfort and efficiency. Lots of gravel bikes for the awesome dirt road riding right out our door.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | VTSPORTS.COM 33

MIGRATIONS

ENDGAME

A 250-MILE PADDLE DOWN THE CONNECTICUT RIVER, FOLLOWING THE FLIGHT PATH OF EAGLES. BY LEATH TONINO

W

e saw our first bald eagle about an hour into the trip. Dad was in the bow, I was in the stern, the

light was gold, the evening calm. The eagle soared high overhead, maybe 200 feet up, and for a moment I mistook it for a turkey vulture. Turkey vultures fly with their wings in a dihedral, a distinct V-shape, and they wobble and teeter. This bird’s wings were broad and flat, like a plank across its back, and its flight was stable. We pulled our paddles from the water and rested them on our laps. The eagle drifted through the sky.

The paddles dripped.

A mile later, on a long curve through a cornfield, the light lower, the shadows longer, the evening gone from calm to calmer, we saw our second eagle. It was standing on a sandbar at the foot of a steep bank, an immature bird, all dark, no white head or tail. Bald eagles don’t “go bald”— that is, they don’t come into their adult plumage—until they’re four or five years old. They’re a long-lived species; a wild bald eagle in Alaska lived 26 years, and one in captivity died at 38. As we drew closer, Dad turned slightly in his seat, and that was enough—the eagle spread its wings and lifted into flight.

The river has a way of blending things, a way of flowing the hours and anecdotes and images together. Said differently: I forget

The Connecticut River starts life in Quebec and remains quiet as it flows through the Northeast Kingdom. Photo courtesy Northern Forest Canoe Trail

the third eagle. I know it only as a tick mark

a bend only to return five minutes later with

on the inside cover of my journal, a running

a fish in its talons. While bald eagles will

tally I kept during our week paddling

eat waterfowl, shorebirds, small mammals,

Vermont’s eastern edge.

turtles, and carrion, fish generally make

The trip was 250 miles, Canaan in the

up more than half their diet. They’re “still

far north to Vernon, near the Massachusetts

hunters,” meaning they mostly hunt from

border. It was red foxes, anglers, covered

shoreline trees. I drained the last of my

bridges,

oxbows,

coffee and the eagle flew past, probably en

beavers, crooked docks, party barges,

route to some favorite perch, likely a white

dams and reservoirs, birds of all kinds.

pine with a good view.

rapids

and

riffles,

There were belted kingfishers fishing and

Counting, counting, counting. The fifth

black phoebes flicking their tails. There

was on a dead limb leaning over the river,

were green herons with bright orange legs

maybe resting, maybe watching for bass,

and great blue herons the color of smoke.

maybe both at once; it’s impossible to say

Mergansers and mallards churned the

where an eagle draws the lines between

water as they gathered speed to fly. Bank

such activities, or if it draws lines at all.

swallows swooped and swerved. Canada

The sixth was riding a thermal, as was

geese honked. Downy woodpeckers tapped

the seventh, the same thermal, the two of

trunks. Warblers flashed left and right, too

them spiraling into the blue, one above the

quick to name. And there were eagles too,

other. The eighth was hunched in the rain,

lots of them, far more than we’d expected.

the ninth hunched in noontime sun. I can’t

The fourth arrived an hour after sunup.

remember the tenth—another mystery tick

Dad was disassembling the tent in a meadow

mark in my journal—but I do recall the

of clover and I was down by the water

eleventh. It was harassing an osprey, trying

drinking instant coffee, standing barefoot

to cadge a meal by forcing the osprey to

in the shallows, pine needles and yellow

drop its catch. This is not uncommon. Bald

pollen and little bubbles drifting past my

eagles weigh close to ten pounds, ospreys

shins. The eagle flew in from the north and

only three and a half, and the two species

headed downstream, disappearing around

compete for prime habitat, the larger bird

34 VTSPORTS.COM | SEPTEMBER 2018

"There were even eagles in my dreams, flying through my unconscious, wild as ever and huge."

their composure perfect, taut. Occasionally, a large fast shadow cut over the canoe and drew our attention up from the water. One time we heard what my Sibley Field Guide to Birds of Eastern North America describes as “weak, flat, chirping whistles,” and though we never found the bird, we knew it was nearby. We saw a nest of sticks. We saw a molted feather. There were even eagles in my dreams at night, flying through my unconscious, wild as ever and totally huge.

A week tracing Vermont’s eastern border. A squiggly line, a home for birds. An arithmetic of place. Three eagles plus three

often ousting the smaller. After a couple minutes of chasing and veering and near collisions, the fish fell—a tiny silvery bomb.

The eagle retrieved it from the water and the osprey flew off in the opposite direction.

Each day of our trip we crossed paths with at least one eagle, if not three, four, five, or eight. Many of these were surely repeats, the same birds looping back on us as we worked our way south. Eagles climbing the clouds; eagles flying low over

eagles doesn’t equal six eagles. Rather, it equals the river and the mind’s fluid passage through the river corridor. Equals awareness. Equals an awareness of the lives that make the larger life we call Vermont.

I kept my journal nearby, my pencil at the ready, my binoculars dangling from my neck. Around any bend there might be another eagle for the count, another eagle to watch and wonder over and, later on, to remember.

their own reflections; eagles diving toward the river’s surface, slashing it with the tips

Leath Tonino is author of One Thousand

of their talons; eagles that wouldn’t stir,

Miles, essays on his journeys in Vermont.

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