VT
FREE! SUMMER 2022
SKI + RIDE
Vermont’s Mountain Sports and Life
THE SUMMER GUIDE 10 Places to Plunge | 6 Rail Trails to Ride | New MTB Trails
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ONE MAN’S DREAM HOME FUSCO’S SKI TOWN ELEGY
SOU THWES T ERN V ERMON T M ED I CA L CE N T ER O R T HO PE D I C S
RESTORING
ACTIVE +
LIFESTYLES
Back in the Saddle Celia Bahny is an active outdoor kid. She and her family enjoy biking, swimming, hiking, fishing, boating, and snowboarding. When she broke the same arm in the same place for the second time, her mom Holly knew she needed the experts at SVMC Orthopedics. After seeing Orthopedic Surgeon Matthew Nofziger, MD, Celia has made a complete recovery and is doing all of the activities she loves.
Matthew Nofziger, MD, is a board-certified, fellowshiptrained orthopedic surgeon.
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CONTENTS
FEATURES ONE MAN’S HOME... p. 20
A skier and arts patron wanted a home that’s not like anything else. Here’s what he got.
RAIL TRAIL REVIVAL p. 26
The longest rail trail in New England will be completed this fall. But Vermont has 5 gorgeous rail trails you can ride right now.
SAVING VERMONT’S SWIMMING HOLES p. 34
Here are 10 amazing swimming holes to plunge into this summer. Plus, learn how many of them have been preserved.
JOHN FUSCO AND THE SKI TOWN ELEGY p. 44
Stowe filmmaker John Fusco and actor Patrick Dempsey tackle the demise of ski towns in a fictionalized series.
FIRST TRACKS
COLUMNS
UP FRONT | THE (NEW) STATE OF MOUNTAIN BIKING,
Thanks to VMBA and new grants, mountain biking is exploding.
NEWS | SKI AREA NEWS, p. 12
Vermont’s skier visits. A new name for S6. Some 31 grants go to ski programs, and more.
SKI TOWNS | ALL ABOUT THE (NEW) BASE, p. 14
Plans are moving forward for a new Killington base village.
LOCAL HERO | BEAUTY AND THE BEASTS,
p. 18
p. 6
FROM THE TOP | A PLACE TO PLAY
p. 3
COACH | MORE PADDLE POWER,
p . 51
From trails to swimming holes, Vermont is investing in outdoor recreation. Here’s how to get more out of your SUP, and save your back.
RETRO VT | GREEN MOUNTAIN TRIVIA,
p. 55
Hotels on the summits, a proposed highway on the ridgeline: true or false? See how much you know about the history of Vermont’s Green Mountains.
CALENDAR | GREEN MOUNTAIN EVENTS ,
p. 59
Her day job is as a mechanic fixing ski area grooming machines. Off-hours she competes in beauty pageants. CHAIRLIFT CHAT | THE VT MICROBREW QUIZ, p. 64 . How well do you know Vermont’s microbrews? ,COVER: Leaping in at Warren Falls. Photo by Lisa Lynn THIS PAGE: Rolling on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail. Photo by David Goodman vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 1
BIG VIEWS.
BIGGER INSPIRATION FOR YOUR BIGGEST SUMMER VACATION.
Summer just looks better when you’re viewing it from 4241’ feet. Take a scenic gondola ride to the top, rip your mountain bike back down, find family-friendly thrills in the Adventure Center and cap it all off with a round of golf. There’s so much more to do at The Beast you’ll be glad there are 365 days in the year to enjoy. Find out more at killington.com
8 Winter 2022 vtskiandride.com
EDITORIAL Publisher Angelo Lynn angelo@vtskiandride.com Editor/Co-Publisher Lisa Lynn editor@vtskiandride.com Creative Director David Pollard
Contributors: Brooks Curran, Dan Egan, David Goodman, Ali Kaukas, Bud Keene, Brian Mohr, Lindsay Selin, Doug Stewart, Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
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Family fun and outdoor adventures await you across our 2,600 acres. Explore wooded trails on foot or bike, play 18holes of disc golf, take a tour to learn about the von Trapp family history, how we brew our lagers, or discover how we make the best maple sugar! Enjoy Austrian-inspired food at the Bierhall, or in our main dining room, and enjoy handmade pastries at the Kaffeehaus! We've got something for everyone!
Stowe, Vermont - www.Trappfamily.com - 800.826.7000
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A PLACE TO PLAY If you’ve lived in Vermont for a while you may take for granted the access we have to the outdoors. But consider this: Nearly 25 years ago, a mountain biker who moonlit as a lawyer drafted an act that would protect landowners from liability. What Gary Kessler did back then not only led to the founding of one of the country’s strongest mountain bike organizations, the Vermont Mountain Bike Association, it also helped preserve access to private land for a variety of sports. The Vermont Rivers Conservancy is doing similar work in providing access to waterways. Its campaign to protect a swimming hole in every town has helped to save places that generations of Vermonters and visitors have enjoyed. We tell that story and profile some favorites in “Saving Vermont’s Swimming Holes.” Then there are rail trails. With the help of state and federal funding, groups around the state have helped to shift some of Vermont’s former railbeds into rail trails, as author David Goodman describes in “Rail Trail Revival” in this issue. In May, Governor Scott announced that an unprecedented $5 million would be given out in new grants to help grow outdoor recreation projects around the state. Many of the grants will be going to ski towns, including $262,000 to West Windsor and Ascutney Outdoors to build out new bike trails (shown above) and more than $400,000 to the Mad River Valley to build a recreation hub and trails. It’s a combination of these laws, this type of investment and the hard work of volunteers around the state that makes Vermont the state it is, one where outdoor recreation is a priority. We’re grateful for that. — Lisa Lynn, Editor
CONTRIBUTORS Contributing editor David Goodman, best known to skiers as the author of Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast: 50 Classic Ski and Snowboard Tours in New England and New York, takes us on a tour of Vermont’s rail trails in this issue.
Vermonter Tara Schatz has been visiting Vermont swimming holes since before she could walk. Here, she shares some of her favorites with us, starting on page 26. Schatz now lives in Bennington and blogs about her travels at Backroads Rambler and Vermont Explored.
vtskiandride.com Summer 2022
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Skida founder Corinne Prevot kicks up dirt at her home mountain, Burke Mountain Resort. Burke will play host to the Enduro Worlds this August 13-14. Photo by Brooks Curran.
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Photo by Max Grudzinski/Vail Resorts
FIRSTTRACKS
THE (NEW) STATE OF MOUNTAIN BIKING
Vermont’s trail networks have come a long way in two decades. Now, thanks to new grants and investment from ski areas around the state, they are poised to grow even more.
T
wenty-five years ago, something happened that changed the landscape in Vermont. The Vermont Mountain Bike Association (VMBA) formed, giving a central voice to what was, at the time, a loose-knit group of bike clubs around the state. In 1997, lawyer Gary Kessler, helped launch Vermont Mountain Bike Advocates, which later became VMBA. One of Kessler’s first moves was to write the Landowner Liability Act which protects landowners who allow public access to their land from personal injury lawsuits. It passed in 1998. This past spring, the significance of that act was driven home. Oregon has no such laws. This past spring, Oregon’s Mount Hood vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 7
This past spring, the significance of that act was driven home when Oregon’s Mount Hood Ski Bowl decided to shut down its mountain biking operations. That came after the ski area paid a $10.5 million settlement to a man who was paralyzed after his bike hit a rut and he crashed into a sign in 2016. The ski area had been hosting summer mountain biking for 32 years without incident. Oregon has no such laws. In April 2021, Seven Springs in Pennsylvania also shuttered its downhill park. In the last two decades, VMBA has played an outsized role in both advocating for mountain bike trails and helping chapters and ski areas build them. From 2007 to 2011, VMBA’s then-director Patrick Kell hosted an annual conference for ski areas and trail builders to help them work together to create bike parks. His successor, Tom Stuessy helped build out the organization to include 28 chapters (up from 14 in 2012) and nearly 10,000 members. Since 2012, the organization —now under the leadership of former Cat 1 rider and cyclocross racer Nick Bennette—has seen more than 200 miles of new trails. That’s just the start. In the past few years, ski areas such as Bolton Valley Resort, Suicide Six, Cochran’s, Okemo and Stratton have joined the bigger alpine mountain bike areas (Burke, Sugarbush, Killington and Mount Snow) in creating downhill trail networks. Now, trail networks at ski towns around the state are destined
to grow even more. In March 2022, Governor Scott announced that nearly $5 million in grants are being awarded to organizations around the state to improve outdoor recreation. Many of those grants are for projects in ski towns that will help mountain biking continue to grow. Here’s what is happening this summer at ski towns, north to south. NORTHERN VERMONT This August 13-14, Burke Mountain Resort will welcome the best pro riders in the world for the Enduro World Series. The races involve timed downhill segments with untimed, but mandatory, uphill sections. They reward all-around solid riding, as opposed to straight cross-country or straight downhill. Think of Enduro as the alpinecombined race for mountain bikes. Local Burke rider Riley Miller, a graduate of Killington Mountain School, is a favorite. Miller was just 16 when she won the U.S. Downhill Nationals in 2021. Kingdom Trails is adding a handful of new trails, including a climbing trail, Moriah’s Ascent, dedicated to Moriah Wilson, the gravel racing star from the Burke area who was murdered in Texas in May. The trail was built by an all-female crew from the Northwoods Stewardship Center’s Youth Conservation Corps. Two other new trails will help keep bikes off the pavement. The Wildlfower Inn and its adjacent 190 acres on Darling Hill were
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Jay Peak is also slowly building out mountain bike options. The resort now has a beginner loop and a short intermediate network as well as a kid’s pump track —all are free. Smuggler’s Notch is also catering to a family-friendly crowd with 10 miles of singletrack, a pump track and a downhill skills park. Bolton Valley Resort—long known for its expert downhill trails—is opening its first green trail this summer. The resort brought back lift-served riding last summer and is hosting weekly skills clinics. Even tiny Cochran’s Ski Area is getting in on the action with a small network of downhill routes (not lift-served) and in 2020 opened a pump track and two beginner loops.
recently purchased by Foster Goodrich, of southern Vermont. A new trail on that land, the Beltway, will be an easy 1.3-mile alternative to riding Darling Hill Road with mellow grades and smooth berms. Another new trail that was done with the help of Burke Mountain, the Stubborn Trail will provide an alternative to riding on the Dashney Road.
Photo Credit: Jim Westphalen
Photo by Ali Kaukas
Stratton Mountain Resort will be adding five new trails to its lift-served downhill bike park, part of an $8.9 million investment the resort is making.
CENTRAL VERMONT The Mad River Valley is blowing up as a mountain bike destination, with some big things to come. Sugarbush, which was one of the early adopters of lift-served downhill riding, will again host the Maxxis Eastern States Cup (July 23). Recently, a number of new trails have connected the resort’s network with the cross-country trails that meander through the valley and hills. The big news is that this spring the Valley earned the largest of 24 Community Grants allocated by the state-run Vermont Outdoor Recreation Economic Collaborative. The $408,019 grant will help build an indoor welcome center and the Mad River Recreation Hub,
vtskiandride.com vtskiandride.comSummer Summer2022 2021 9
An early adopter of lift-served riding, Sugarbush’s nearly 25 miles of downhill trails are connected to the Mad River Valley’s growing cross-country network.
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At Mount Ascutney, new trails are already being built thanks to another VOREC grant of $262,088. Ascutney Outdoors and the Ascutney Trails Association have been building a new flow trail and skills park. A good time to check out the progress is July 29-31 when Ascutney will host the FLOW State Mountain Bike Festival. SOUTHERN VERMONT In 2015, Okemo Mountain Resort opened its Evolution bike park. This summer, the lift-served upper trails will be closed for riding as work is done to improve the ski lifts. That’s the bad news. The good news is that the Back Forty Mountain Bike Trail Project, the brainchild of Okemo Mountain School coach Chris Hurka, is slowly moving forward. The town had been looking for $30,000 to build new trails for hiking and biking behind the former Black River High School. The first phase would be a 3,900-foot beginner loop. Stratton Mountain has been working hard on its lift-served bike park as part of the $8.9 million investment that parent Alterra Mountain Company is making in the resort. Working with trailbuilder Sinuosity, Stratton Bike Park will be adding five new trails to bring the total trail count to 16. This includes the newly designed trail “Paper Route” that flows for 1.23 miles into the Snow Bowl area, and the 1-mile multidirectional “Bear’s Den” connecting to the Sun Bowl area. A skills park, Kick Start will also be the home for Stratton Mountain Sports School’s lessons, a great place to learn before heading up the lift. n
Photo by John Atkinson
a pedestrian/bike bridge over the Mill Brook; and a new, adjacent trailhead area with port-o-lets and parking. There will also be two safe pedestrian crossings of VT 100 and a road-side path into Irasville, linking the Hub to Waitsfield’s downtown. Just south of town, Jonny Adler, one of the founders of The Skinny Pancake chain of Vermont-local restaurants, is turning what was once the MadBush Lodge and then John Egan’s Big World Pub into a mountain bike/ski inn or basecamp. Plans call for 16 rooms with bike racks and wash-down stations as well as a restaurant with 72 seats. Killington Resort’s downhill bike park with 35 miles of trails is already in full swing with the Red Bull Raw made-for-spectating dual slalom taking place July 29-31, followed by the Fox US Open of mountain biking September 15-18. The town of Killington also received a VOREC grant to help build connector trails that will eventually form part of the proposed state-long Velomont Trail. The $75,000 grant will go toward building a 3.4-mile single-track crosscountry mountain bike trail from Gifford Woods State Park north toward the Velomont. The new 3.4-mile trail be one of the longest flow trails in the state. S6 (formerly Suicide Six — it is exploring a name change) began building flowy downhill trails at its Elemental Bike Park in 2018. While there is no lift-served, the downhills on the 3 miles of trails are just plain fun and not overly challenging. And the trails are free.
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KILLINGTON WORLD CUP FOUNDATION GIVES BACK
What’s the cheapest way to ski as many different areas as you can on one pass? Since 2019, the Indy Pass — a single pass that offers two free days at partner resorts around the country—has been adding on ski areas. For the 2022-23 season, the Indy Pass is counting close to 100 ski areas passholders can access for $299, including Vermont’s Bolton Valley Resort, Jay Peak, Magic Mountain and the resort formerly known as Suicide Six. That number is likely to grow, considering there are approximately 470 ski areas in the U.S. Vail Resorts owns 37 ski areas. Alterra owns 14. POWDR owns 10. Boyne Resorts own 9. New this season, the Middlebury Snow Bowl (above) joins Indy as an Allied ski area. What that means is if you have a Snow Bowl season pass ($439 for adults), you can buy an Indy Pass at 30% off. And if you have an Indy Pass, you can buy Snow Bowl day tickets at half price. In addition, the Indy Pass is now good for two days at cross country ski areas, including Vermont’s Rikert Nordic Center and the Woodstock Nordic Center, New Hampshire’s Jackson and Waterville Valley Cross Country Centers, and a handful of areas out West.
$
30 12 Summer 2022 vtskiandride.com
That’s what you will have to pay to park at Stowe Mountain Resort this coming winter if you want to ski on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Last season, Vail Resorts started charging $30 for parking at the premium lots at Mount Snow. Now, in response to complaints about traffic and parking at Stowe, Vail Resorts is working with an outside vendor to set up the parking payment system there too. There are exceptions: if you have four or more in the car, you park for free. Parking is also free at the Toll House lift area and at the Stowe Cross Country Center.
Photos by Angelo Lynn
INDY PASS ADDS ON
A new rope tow at Cochran’s Ski Area, new snowmaking and grooming for a sprint course at the Prospect Mountain cross-country area in southern Vermont, a new airbag for Killington Mountain School’s jump facility, lift tickets and beginner rental gear for the Bromley Outing Club: These are just some of the things that the Killington World Cup Foundation 2022 grants will help fund. In June, the foundation announced $289,000 in grants will go to 31 non-profit organizations around New England. Over the last four years the foundation, which was made possible by the Homelight Killington World Cup, has donated nearly $2 million to youth programs and sports infrastructure The 2022 grants range from $1,500 to $25,000. Many of this year’s grants went toward programs that can help people access the sport. One grant will help grow the program for the Share Winter/Association of Africans living in Vermont. Another grant went to the New England Nordic Skiing Association (NENSA)’s Nordic Rocks program, which gets school children on Nordic skis. A number of adaptive programs received grants as well, including Adaptive Sports Foundation, New England Disabled Sports, the STRIDE Foundation and the Kelly Brush Foundation.
Photo top by Alex D’allolmo’ bottom courtesy S6
SKIER VISITS ON THE RISE? On June 5, Killington was still going strong with skiers and riders bashing the bumps on Superstar. Once again, the Beast of the East outlasted the rest for the longest ski season in the East. But no one was counting those days as “skier visits.” Those had already been tabulated. Nationwide, the number of skier/rider visits hit an all-time high this past season at 61 million. That beats previous records of 60.5 million that were set in 2010-11 and 2007-08. Vermont’s numbers also tracked higher, though not in the record-breaking numbers reported nationally. During the 2021-22 season, the 20 areas that are members of Vermont Ski Areas Association reported 3,762,047 skier days, up from 3,532,186 in 2020-21 and 3,664,326 in 2019-2020. (Note: A “skier day” counts a visit, not a unique skier.) Those visits were not all to the big multipass areas. “We saw a 68-percent increase in skier/rider visits,” says Mike Hussey, the general manager of the Middlebury Snow Bowl. While Vermont saw skier/rider visits reach as high as 4,670,903 visits in 2014-15, and close to that in the two prior years, the move by many resorts to the new RFID ticket scanning machines may account for more accurate reporting in recent years, VSAA acknowledges. The weather this past season and late openings at many resorts may have also held back those numbers. Vermont areas averaged 116 operating days this past season, versus 111 last season and 110 during the Covid-shortened 2019-20 season. The previous 6 years, the average was over 130 days. In fact, if you divide skier visits by the number of operating days, the 2021-22 season was slightly better than the 2018-19 season (the last season to break 4 million), with 2021-22 averaging 32,431 visits per operating day and 2018-19 coming in at 32,425 skier visits per operating day. The 2021-22 season was the second-lowest in average snowfall in the past decade, with only 142 inches reported. The only year that was worse was 2015-2016 which averaged 107. “Even under the best of circumstances, running a ski area is not for the faint of heart,” said VSAA Executive Director Molly Mahar. “Things outside your control like uncooperative and ill-timed weather and regulatory delays are everyday occurrences.” As for the upcoming 2022-23 season? If the 9 percent, year-todate increase in Epic Passes sold as of this June is any indication, next season could be even busier.
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
The oldest ski area in America is getting a new name. In 1936 Bunny Bertram bought 30 acres of land on Hill 6 – a hill so steep one person said it would be ‘suicide’ to ski it. Suicide Six has, in recent years frequently used the name “S6 Recreation Area” instead. In June it announced it was looking for a new name, out of respect for victims and their families and a new awareness of mental health. vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 13
Photo © Stephen Matera
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Ski Towns
ALL ABOUT THE (NEW) BASE Big plans are going forward for a new base village at Killington.
Courtesy SP Land
E
ver since the 1980s, people have talked about a base village at Killington. The ski area that was founded in 1958 quickly outgrew the 700-person village of the same name that was well down the hill from its lifts. Between 2010 and 2020, Killington’s population increased by over 73%, one of the fastest rates in the state. Now, the Beast of the East is within sniffing distance of a true ski-in, ski-out base village, thanks to its new designation as a Tax Increment Financing district (TIF). Pending the TIF’s final approval, those plans could go ahead and construction on the infrastructure needed for the village project could start as soon as spring of 2023. The proposed Six Peaks base village would be located on land owned by the SP Land & Company, much of it adjacent to the Killington Golf Course and where parking areas are now. “We’ve wanted to build there since 2020 but we needed the infrastructure, in particular the municipal water systems, to go in first,” says Steve Selbo, president of SP Land. “The first residential offering will encompass condominiums and townhomes, as well as homesites in two ski-in/ski-out sites of 85 acres. The majority of the one-to-four bedroom residences will be in the Village’s core area in three-to-five story buildings which have a contemporary New
When completed, the new base village at Killington will have 35,000 square feet of space for retail shops and restaurants.
England style.” The initial drawings for the project are being done by Hart Howerton, an architectural practice that has designed projects such as the 475,000 sq. ft core village at the Yellowstone Club in Montana. When the Six Peaks project is fully built out (something developers expect would take six or seven more years after the first phase is completed), as many as 1,500 new residences will make up the village. There would be a new hotel, 35,000 square feet of space for retail shops, restaurants and bars. There may also be a skiers’ bridge that could connect Killington Mountain Resort’s Ramshead and Snowshed base areas. But before any of that can happen two big hurdles have to be overcome: the municipal water system needs a major upgrade to handle the additional development and Killington’s access road, Killington Road, would have to be updated to handle the traffic. In July, Killington received preliminary approval for its Tax Increment Financing district which will help the state fund those infrastructure projects, based on a longer term projected increase in tax revenues. A Tax Increment Financing district, or TIF, covers an area targeted for development that requires infrastructure to achieve further growth. Once approved, a town uses the increased property taxes generated by the TIF development to fund the infrastructure. Killington town manager Chet Hagenbarth noted: “Without the public investments, the town will continue to see the stagnant and declining Grand List growth that has occurred over the past decade. Funding these investments locally without TIF would effectively double the Town tax rate, which is too much for taxpayers to bear.” The improvements are anticipated to add over $285 million of new taxable value to Killington’s Grand List, yielding over $115 million in new property tax revenues over the 20-year retention period for the TIF district. Over $26 million of those new property tax revenues will go to the education fund, $4 million to the town’s general fund, and the remaining $84 million will be used to service debt taken on by the town to make the improvements
vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 15
The town will use TIF to fund over $62 million in infrastructure investments, including municipal water buildout and updates to its central artery, Killington Road. Two new wells already exist along Route 4 — about 1,000 vertical feet below Killington’s village — and TIF funding will create a municipal water system that can access the Route 4 wells at the top of Killington Road, near the base of the mountain. Secondly, Killington Road, which brings visitors from Route 4 up to the mountain, will be rebuilt. The renovations will include expanded sidewalks, bike lanes, bus pullouts, and other improvements needed to streamline the increased use imagined. The proposal is projected to create 275 jobs in the TIF district. One question that the project doesn’t address directly, however, is workforce housing —an issue that many ski towns are grappling with. In June, Killington Mountain Resort
A summer view of the pedestrian village that will have a “New England” style, says SP Lands’ Selbo.
purchased the 90-room Hillside Inn after renting it for the 2021-22 season. Four years ago, the resort purchased the Mendon Mountain View Lodge and used its 39 rooms, kitchen and community space for employees. Together, the two properties are expected to house nearly 275 employees. However, the build-out of the municipal water system should allow for more development, and hopefully, more employee housing. n
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Local Hero
BEAUTY AND THE GROOMING BEASTS
Photo courtesy Halley Riley-Elliott
Most days, mechanic Halley Riley-Elliott, 21, is using a wrench on ski resort grooming machines. Her side gig involves other tools: high heels, bobby pins and curling irons.
L
ast winter, Halley Riley-Elliott of Proctor, Vt., spent most of her days working as a mechanic on Okemo’s Prinoth Beast grooming machines. This winter, she’ll be rolling up her sleeves to do similar work on Killington’s fleet of Pisten-Bully groomers. In her spare time, she’ll be preparing for beauty pageants.Yes, beauty pageants. Growing up in Mount Holly, there were a few things Halley RileyElliott really wanted to do. She liked to snowboard and she thought about competing in beauty pageants, “but we really didn’t have the financial means to do that,” she says. Most of all, she wanted to own a
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Riley-Elliott working as a mechanic at Okemo last winter. Next season she’ll be wrenching at Killington.
Jeep Wrangler. “I really, really wanted that car and when I finally got one, I paid way too much for it. then I found it was going to need some work, which would cost even more,” she said with an eye roll. Her solution: “I said, ‘You know what? I’m going to do the work myself.’ And that’s how it all started.” So, at 16 she learned how to do a tub swap. “I did the brakes all the way around. And I learned to do a clutch, a coil pack on the engine, spark plugs—a full basic tune up.Then I cleaned the frame completely because it was super crusty,” she remembers. She got so into repairing the vehicle that she switched from studying nursing at Stafford Technical Center and working at the Springfield Hospital to getting her degree in Diesel Power Technology at Vermont Technical College in 2021 and working as a mechanic at Okemo. It wasn’t hard to get the Okemo job— her brother worked there, and she had been working as an instructor there since 2015. “When I got the job as a mechanic my first boss there, Eb Kinney said ‘why didn’t you come here sooner?’ ‘ Pretty soon, she was overhauling the groomers. “One of the mechanics had left so I took his job. In the summer, we’d bring in a groomer and we completely tear it apart. We’d check the suspension, check the motor and the valves and then put it all back together and fix what’s wrong with it,” she says. “In the winter, hardly a day goes by when there’s not something to fix.” Most of the day, Riley-Elliot was busy working, but she could snowboard on her lunch hour. In her spare time, she decided to pursue one of her other dreams: competing in a beauty pageant. “I’d talked to a former beauty pageant competitor, and she said: ‘You should totally do it,’” and I thought, ‘I totally should!’” RileyElliott’s first pageant was Miss Vermont USA in 2021. Contestants are judged in three categories: Personal Interview, Swimsuit and Evening Gown. The scariest thing she’s done in recent years is, in her words, “walk onto the stage
Courtesy Halley Riley-Elliott
in six-inch heels in front a huge room full of people with thousands more watching on Zoom.” She’d only worn heels twice before, at her high school prom. She competed again in 2022, when she was awarded the Miss Congeniality award at the Miss Vermont USA pageant. “The year before, I’d noticed that often the other girls would misplace something, and they’d have to run around trying to borrow it.” For the 2022 pageant, Halley Riley put together small emergency “tool kits” of sorts for all the other women competing. “There were extra hair ties and bobby pins and a bunch of other stuff that I thought that they would need, and everybody loved them. The other girls vote on the Miss Congeniality award, so I think that’s what really did it but I was also willing to help if anybody needed help with their hair or makeup — as long as it wasn’t too complicated.” Along the way, she has learned to do her own hair and makeup – two skills she doesn’t need in her day job. She also learned something else. “Competing in the pageants, I really learned a lot about myself —and about others. And I got a lot of self-confidence.” So much so that when an opportunity arose to work as a mechanic at Killington, she jumped at it. “They have, I think, 20 Pisten-Bully groomers and I wanted to work on those machines,” she says. After that? “I like being a mechanic and it pays well.” n
Halley Riley-Elliott, far right, at the Miss Vermont pageant. In May, she was named Miss Vermont Sweetheart after completing the national draft for that pageant series.
91 MAIN STREET, STOWE VILLAGE 802.253.3033 ~ STOWE@F ERROJ EWELERS.COM WWW.F ERROJ EWELERS.COM /STOWE LIKE US ON FACEBOOK.COM /F ERRO.J EWELERS
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Dream Home
ONE MAN’S HOME...
If you could have a home designed just for you, and you alone, what 20 Summer 2022 vtskiandride.com
A collaboration among the owner, Middlebury architects McLeod Kredell and Stowe’s Sisler Builders produced this stunning one-story home for an art collector and avid cross-country skier.
would it be? This skier saw his vision come true on a hillside in Stowe. vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 21
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Photos courtesy Sisler Builders
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hen Jim Zajac got to the point where he was ready to build a home in the Green Mountains, he turned to the Middlebury-based architecture firm McLeod Kredell. He gave them a rough sketch of what he wanted in a ski home. “His drawing was a square with four boxes, each marked with a function,” says architect John McLeod. “It was a very elemental scheme of four or five rooms,” Zajac explains. “I wanted a single story because at the time I had a Corgi and they don’t do so well with stairs. I needed a living area, sleeping area, cooking area and mudroom. It was very important to have some kind of a workspace where I could get dirty and stay warm in the winter.” But a box-like home was not what Zajac, who has a keen interest in the arts, was looking for. He wanted something more creative and gave the architects broad reign. “I could not have envisioned what we got,” says Zajac. Like a piece of origami or a child’s cootie catcher, McLeod Kredell unfolded the squares of the box into a cruciform with an enclosed courtyard in the middle. With its jutting gabled metal roofs, the onestory home looks a bit like a futuristic plane ready to soar over the field below and out across the mountains. The roofline is as functional as it is aesthetic. At the entryway wing, the gabled overhang juts out far enough to function as a carport. Off the living room, it provides shade to the concrete cantilevered porch. Off the bedroom wing, it protects an outdoor shower and off Zajac’s workshop, it covers the sliding glass doors where Zajac brings his skis into the workshop. “I had rented in Stowe for seven years before making the decision to buy land and build something of my own,” says Zajac, a lawyer who works in New York City and has a home on the eastern end of Long Island. “I love Nordic skiing and would often go to the trails at Trapp Family Lodge.” What attracted him in part to the land he bought was that it was near the VAST (Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) trails. “I can literally ski out my backyard all the way to Sterling Valley or to the Stowe Rec path,” he says. Each wing of the 2,400-sq.-ft. house has its own entry to the outdoors. Coming back from a ski, Zajac can slide open the doors to what he calls his “no-car garage,” and put his skis on the tuning bench. An avid potter, the other side of the room houses his turning wheel. Sliding doors shut the area off from the main part of the house. The main entry opens into a shallow hallway facing a partial wall with custom cabinets and closets that Sisler Builders, the builder on the project, fabricated. The cabinets frame a piece from Zajac’s art collection, a work by contemporary Dutch artist Marian Bijleng that uses delicate fish scales floating on a web of microfibers. Behind the wall is a laundry area, bright with the natural light
Light streams into the south facing living room of Jim Zajac’s home in Stowe. Architects McLeod Kredell drew inspiration from some of the early examples of modern architecture from the 1930s, such as Stowe’s Hob Kmob Inn and Mount Mansfield base lodge. The interior courtyard (top) with its simple gravel and granite is reminiscent of Japanese gardens. Sisler created the custom cabinetry throughout.
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that spills in from the large windows that open onto the small central courtyard. Directly across the courtyard is a small bathroom and beyond that, hidden behind another partial wall, the sleeping wing. There, a bed is tucked into a wall of cabinets almost like a Murphy bed. Just beyond is a stunning bathroom, paved with dark gray ceramic tiles, an open shower and a sunken bathtub. An enclosed toilet is off to one side and just out the door beneath the cantilever is an outdoor shower as well. What is remarkable about the home is that other than for the toilets and the closets, none of the interior walls rise to the ceiling and none of the wings or “rooms” have interior doors. This gives it an open and airy flow. What further adds to the feeling of airiness is the roof and ceiling appear to float on an exposed internal frame. Posts placed a few inches in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows support massive beams that stretch the length of each wing. The wood panels on the ceiling extend past the exterior walls to the eaves. Stowe’s Sisler Builders craftsmanship is evident in the joinerwork, trim and custom cabinetry. The kitchen backs to the interior courtyard with a window acting as a backsplash behind stove. Beyond the kitchen island, the living area/dining room extends toward the southern end of the house which is all glass and sliding doors, giving extensive views of the field and mountains beyond. Tucked into the walls of the living room are the fireplace and a work area. “John [McLeod] called those ‘saddlebags,’” says Zajac. “I didn’t want to have the fireplace sticking out in the room, particularly because if I wanted to put down a carpet it would be very difficult to deal with that. So John came up with the idea of a cantilevered fireplace. And then the desk followed suit.” Doing so allowed the lines of the living room to remain streamlined with the exterior cantilevered areas hidden from most views of the house. The house is not a big place. There is no basement, no garage, no attic. As McLeod notes, this house is not for everyone. “We designed this house for Jim and I can’t imagine designing it for anyone else. “ “It’s not a house for a family with children, it’s a house for one or two,” says Zajac. “The decision to build in that way opened up a whole lot of potential. If you think of places like the Farnsworth house or the Glass House. They’re very similar. You don’t need doors if there are no people who need to be excluded,” he says, referring to the groundbreaking modern designs by architects Mies van der Rohe (Farnsworth) and Philip Johnson (Glasshouse). But it is one man’s castle. n
The window behind the kitchen looks into the courtyard, giving the room a feeling of greater space (top). The workroom holds a turning bench and pottery wheel. The bathroom walls feature handmade tiles from Heath Ceramics in California. Opposite page: The paneled ceiling on the carport matches the interior ceiling. The cantilevered fireplace sits flush with the interior walls. From the air, the cruciform shape stands out with two red Herman Miller chairs on the concrete deck.
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Photo by Brooks Curran
THANKS TO THE WORK OF A FEW GROUPS, PUBLIC ACCESS TO MANY Just off the access road to Stowe Mountain Resort and on state land, Bingham Fall is a place where freeskiers send it in the summer.
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OF VERMONT’S PRISTINE SWIMMING HOLES HAS BEEN PRESERVED
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access, and waterfalls were being posted with “No Trespassing” signs. Suddenly, they were off limits to people whose families had used them for generations. The organization responded by starting a program called “A Swimming Hole in Every Town.” With over 200 known swimming holes in the state (80 percent of which are on land that is privately owned) they began working with town recreation committees and willing landowners to protect public access. One thing that has helped; Vermont’s liability laws protect the landowner in the case of accidents, laws that have benefitted trail building and public access on private land for all sorts of recreation, from mountain biking to plunging into a cool pool. The VRC will either work with landowners or, in some instances, try to buy the land around the swimming holes. As Libby explains, “More than a decade ago, VRC received a phone call from a supporter warning that the land surrounding a beloved swimming hole known as ‘Journeys End’ was up for sale as a residential lot. With the invaluable support of the local community, and with the patience and openness of the landowner to consider a conservation alternative, this pristine place was purchased and conveyed to the town as a permanent public resource.” The same threats can occur across the Vermont landscape, especially if those using the holes have not respected the landowners, neighbors, or the property. “Often, loss of access is preceded by abuse and misuse,” says Libby. “Without proper and thoughtful management, many exceptional swimming holes are overcrowded or degraded by unthinking users. If Vermont’s swimming holes, waterfalls, gorges, and other popular sites are to be well cared for, we need to be excellent
Photo by Mike Mahaffie/Flickr
hen I first moved to Vermont to attend college, I discovered one of this state’s lesserknown but magnificent features,” says Steve Libby, the executive director of the Vermont Rivers Conservancy. “On a muggy August day, my Vermonter friends drove me down twisting and turning back roads, and when I was certain we were hopelessly lost, we pulled off the side of the road, scrambled down a vague path between boulders and brush and plunged into a pristine swimming hole—a perfect spot to cool off from the summer heat.” Like our favorite powder stashes, many of our favorite swimming holes are tucked deep in the woods on public land. Sometimes, the same riverbeds we ski down in late February are the same ones we hike up in July.You might have to bushwhack to get there or to follow what looks like barely a trickle until it plunges over a cliff into a deep pool worn into the granite. Here, in the heat of the summer, in the shade of the forest, the water is crystal clear and cold. The banks are covered in ferns and moss.You may not see another soul. But there are other holes that are easy to find, places where generations of Vermonters have been gathering each summer. After, they spread out on a warm, sun-kissed slab of rock to warm up and dry off before driving off to find the nearest creemee stand. All part of a Vermont ritual. Thanks to Libby’s work with the Vermont Rivers Conservancy, and various other agencies and organizations, access to many of the swimming holes has been preserved. In 1990, the Vermont River Conservancy was formed by a few volunteers who were noticing more and more swimming holes, kayak and canoe put-ins, fishing
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stewards of the lands along Vermont’s waters.” More than just a guardian of swimming holes, the VRC has also helped create paddlers’ trails along many of Vermont’s rivers, establishing campsites along the way and ensuring there are places to park, put in and fish. In the spring of 2022, The Vermont River Conservancy and White River Partnership were awarded one of 24 state-sponsored grants aimed at improving outdoor recreation by the Vermont Outdoor Recreation Economic Collaborative. The two organizations are now collaborating to improve whitewater access at multiple sites, coordinate stewardship efforts, and pilot the Vermont River Access Collaborative with the goal of increasing access to flowing water for all. The VRC website (vermontriverconservancy.org) lists all of its completed projects – including the swimming holes, paddlers’ trails, campsites, and more.
10 AMAZING SWIMMING HOLES
Tara Schatz has been exploring Vermont swimming holes since before she could walk. Here, she shares some of her favorites. Take advantage of that rare sweltering day in Vermont and head to one of these spots.
Photo by Brooks Curran
Trout River Falls (Three Holes), Montgomery Center, Vermont Three lovely waterfalls. Three magical pools for swimming. The official name of this stretch of the Trout River in Montgomery Center is Trout River Falls, but as kids, we always called it Three Holes. Three Holes gets its name from the three separate swimming areas. The first is filled by a 10-foot waterfall. It’s a large, shaded pool, surrounded by cliffs on three sides. This is a tricky spot to get to, and perfect for you Vermont cliff jumpers and hard-core adventure types. The second hole is much smaller, but nice for just chilling out and taking in the scenery. The third pool gets the most sun and is the most popular spot for cooling off on a hot Vermont day. Visit this swimming hole during the week to avoid the crowds. This swimming hole is a bit tricky to get to, so you don’t want to make the journey with a huge beach bag, fancy cameras, or tiny children strapped to your back. Instead, pack a towel and wear good water shoes for this adventure. Directions: From Montgomery Center, take Route 58 east and park in the small gravel pull-off. It’s a steep trail down to the river. From here, you will have to walk upstream (maybe in-stream) until you come to the swimming area. —T.S.
property includes 25 forested acres along 2,500 feet of Foote Brook, and helps ensure the high quality trout habitat in the Brook. The town of Johnson is now the long-term owner of this beautiful area and will manage it as a natural and recreational area. The conservation easement assures that permanent access continues and that the 25 acres will remain in their natural condition. Directions: From the village of Johnson (Route 15/Main St.), head northeast on Pearl St, and continue up Clay Hill Road passing Johnson State College on your right. Turn left onto Plot Road, park at the small pull-off about 0.4 miles ahead on your left. —L.L. Bingham Falls, Stowe One of Vermont’s most stunning waterfalls, Bingham Falls is the prize at the end of a short .3-mile hike in Stowe, just off Route 108 between the Stowe Mountain Resort Cross Country Center and Stowe Mountain Resort. The main falls feature a 25-foot single cascade that plunges into a deep, cold pool.The falls tumble away from the rocks as they cascade over a cliff, and the swimming here is excellent but busy on sweltering summer afternoons. Park on either side of route 108, near Smuggler’s Notch State Park. This is a quiet, family-friendly park – perfect for camping.
Journey’s End, Johnson Journey’s End is a spectacular swimming hole and waterfall carved in the bedrock of Foote Brook, a cold, steep stream that flows to the Lamoille River in Johnson, not far from Smuggler’s Notch. Journey’s End, is one of the swimming holes the Vermont River Conservancy helped to save. The land next to the falls was up for sale and could easily have been posted with “No Trespassing” signs. Instead, by partnering with the landowner, the town of Johnson, several community partners, and the Vermont Housing and Conservation Board, VRC permanently protected public access. The protected The Trout River spills into the aptly named “Three Holes” swimming holes near Montgomery Center (left). At right, backflipping into Stowe’s Bingham Falls.
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SWIMMING HOLE SAFETY & ETIQUETTE
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It’s a rare day when you can find the popular Bolton Potholes pristine and empty. But it’s worth it to try. Warren Falls, below left, is equally popular, as is Quechee Gorge, far right.
spend the weekend hiking and swimming. Directions: From downtown Stowe, take Route 108 north for 6.3 miles.You will see parking areas on both sides of the road and a trail on the right that leads into the woods. The trail starts off level and easy, but as you near the falls, it becomes steeper and sometimes slippery. Bolton Potholes, Bolton This summer, head up to Bolton Valley Resort to try out their new mountain bike trails. Then cool off after with a dip in the Bolton Potholes. Just off the access road from Bolton Valley Resort, Bolton Potholes are a staircasing series of pools that Joiner Brook carved into the rock as it tumbled down toward the valley and the Winooski River, below. The Vermont River Conservancy worked with the Bolton Potholes landowners for over a decade to negotiate the conservation of these magnificent pools, which happened in December 2018. Since then, the VRC has worked to create parking and signage. Be forewarned there can be strong currents. In May 2022, a 21-year-old from Burlington leaped off a rock and drowned. And go early, as this area can get crowded and parking is limited. Directions: From the south, take I-89 exit 10 for VT100 toward Waterbury/US-2, then turn left onto VT-100 S and at the traffic circle, take the 1st exit onto US-2 W/N Main St. After 6.6 miles, turn right onto the Bolton Valley Access Road (small pullout parking area for 5-7 cars on right) or into the Smilie school parking lot and follow the trail up to the potholes.
Photo by Mike Beganyi
Here’s what you should know before you head to one of Vermont’s swimming holes. While many of Vermont’s swimming holes are often shallow and family-friendly, strong currents, hidden rocks and other hazards demand respect. Already, in 2022 there has been one swimming hole fatality and that’s not unusual. “Staying safe at swimming holes begins with an awareness of your surroundings whenever you go to a new place, or even return to a favorite spot,” says Holly Knox, Recreation Program Manager for the USDA Forest Service, Green Mountain National Forest. “Knowing the unique features of each swimming hole you visit will help you understand where swift currents and cliffs are located, and whether it is safe for you to plunge in.” Knox also notes that heavy rain can cause dangerous swimming conditions and can impact the water quality. It is best to avoid swimming 24 hours after a heavy rain. The Vermont Swimming Hole Collaborative, an organization that manages more than 25 swimming holes around the state, noted an increase in visitors after 2020, with people flocking to rivers and waterways to cool off. With the hot weather Vermont has seen recently, this spike in visitors continues. Challenges such as litter, unleashed dogs and pet waste, dangerous overflow parking on roads, and trespassing on private property are all issues that the swimming hole managers are working to tackle. These issues risk ending public access to swimming hole sites, so the Collaborative is asking the public to pitch in and help by observing the following guidelines: > “Carry-In, Carry-Out” and “Leave No Trace” where trash and recycling bins are not present, or where bins are full. > Use designated bathroom facilities only; human waste (and dog waste) can lead to dangerous bacteria in the water. > Always keep your dogs leashed to keep them and others safe or leave them at home. Pick up and properly dispose of dog waste. > When a parking lot is full, come back later or visit a different site; do not park on private property or in the travelled area of roads. > Do not trespass on private property and respect “no trespassing” signs. > Read and respect all signage at swimming hole sites. > Be considerate of others and the neighborhood. > Help keep Vermont waters clear; staying on the trails reduces erosion and saves plants. “ We are fortunate to have hundreds of swimming holes throughout Vermont that communities have enjoyed for generations. When we work together, all swimming hole visitors can help protect and take care of these sites for people to enjoy for generations to come,” says Steve Libby, Executive Director of the Vermont River Conservancy. The Vermont Swimming Hole Collaborative includes Friends of the Mad River, Vermont Department of Forests, Parks & Recreation, Mad River Path, Mad River Valley Planning District, Richmond Land Trust, USDA Forest Service, Green Mountain National Forest, Vermont Housing & Conservation Board, Vermont River Conservancy, and White River Partnership. This group is working together to ensure Vermont’s swimming holes are enjoyed respectfully and protected for years to come.
the whole area is nestled in a deep gorge with large boulders all around and crystal-clear water that turns a deep turquoise when the sun hits it right. If you are visiting Warren Falls with dogs or with small children, head to the lowest pool, which is the easiest way to access the water. Shallow, gravelly spots are great for families, and there aren’t as many people there. The trail to Warren Falls is an easy one, perfect for lugging a picnic lunch, blankets, and camp chairs. Directions: From the junction of Route 100 and Route 125 in Hancock, head north on Route 100 into Warren. When you pass Stetson Hollow Road, travel another 1 mile and pull off in the large dirt parking area on the left. Follow the trail to the river.
Photo far left by Zeke Neubauer; left by Qfamily/Flickr
Quechee Gorge, Quechee Just 9 miles east of Woodstock is what’s known as Vermont’s “Little Grand Canyon.” Quechee Gorge plunges from a dam just below the Simon Pearce store and restaurant down a deep narrow gorge. Receding glaciers first formed the gorge, which is deep enough that on occasion you might see a hot air balloon descending into it. The Ottauquechee River spills down the mile-long chasm, forming pools
Warren Falls, Warren Warren Falls is a cliff jumper’s dream, thanks to four separate waterfalls on the Mad River, just off scenic Route 100 in Warren. The swimming area is wide and deep and there is plenty of room to spread out. It’s a good thing too because this is one of the busiest swimming holes we’ve been to. The waterfalls at Warren Falls are nothing special, but
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Like our favorite powder stashes, many of our favorite swimming holes are tucked deep in the woods on public land.
Winter’s snowpack seeps into the mountainsides, gathers in rivulets and then feeds waterways like this section of Mad River. Here, at Warren Falls, the water is often crystal clear as there is little agriculture upstream, and there are several places to plunge in.
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along the way. This is a place for experts and you will see some of them jumping into the pools . The water is fast-moving so be careful here. But the reward at this popular spot is spectacular scenery. Directions: From Woodstock, head east on U.S. Route 4 until you come to the Quechee Gorge Bridge in Hartford. There is a well-worn path from the bridge down to the pools below. Buttermilk Falls, Ludlow Right in Ludlow, Buttermilk Falls is another swimming hole the Vermont River Conservancy, working with the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation, and the Vermont Housing Conservation Board, was able to preserve. When the land around the falls came up for sale, the three organizations collaborated to purchase the 7 acres and 2,500 feet of riverfront. It is now owned and managed by the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation and can be easily accessed from the road. The swimming area consists of two pools below the upper and middle falls. While the swimming holes aren’t very deep (5 to 6 feet on a good year) and you should not dive in, they are perfect for families and the waterfalls are beautiful. On really hot days, set up your camp chair in the shallow water and relax with your favorite book. Directions: From Ludlow, take Route 100/103 north. Continue north on Route 103 for .2 miles. Take a right on Buttermilk Falls Road and follow it for 1.3 miles. Park on the right side of the road and follow a short trail into the woods. Bristol Falls, Bristol Just over the spine of the Greens from Sugarbush and Mad River Glen, Bristol is a charming town. Bristol Falls on the New Haven River is my favorite spot to go in the summer, and while it’s an extremely popular
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Dorset Quarry, top and above, was once the oldest marble quarry in the United States. Not far from Jamaica State Park, Salmon Hole (opposite page) is a great place to cool off.
favorite spot to go in the summer, and while it’s an extremely popular swimming area, there’s room for everyone, including the daredevil cliff jumpers, the families who want to just relax, and the adventurous who want to scramble behind the falls. We’ve seen as many as 70 cars here on a summer weekend. The highlight of Bristol Falls is the wide waterfall that you can sit underneath or crawl behind. The falls fill a huge swimming hole that is deep enough to jump into. Head downstream to a shallow beach and claim one of the large boulders that are perfect for sunning. There are several trails that you can follow from the roadside parking area. They will all eventually lead you to the river and fabulous swimming. If you head upstream about .25 miles, you’ll find another less popular swimming area called Circle Current. Directions: From Bristol, drive east on Route 116/17 for 2.8 miles and turn right on Lincoln Road.You will see roadside parking on either side of the road in about .2 miles.
10. Salmon Hole, Jamaica Salmon Hole is one of several deep swimming spots in the West River that you can access from Jamaica State Park, which is also one of our favorite spots to camp in the summer. Our recommendation? Book a leanto for the weekend, bring your bikes, try Stratton Mountain Resort’s liftserved mountain bike trails and spend a few days relaxing near the river. The first thing you should do after setting up camp is cool off in Salmon Hole, a wide, deep spot in the West River. It’s located right near the playground, and the river is slow-moving, clear, and plenty deep enough for swimming. If you bring goggles, you can even watch the large trout meandering along the riverbed. If you are visiting Jamaica State Park with dogs, no worries. While your furry friends aren’t permitted at Salmon Hole, if you stroll along the West River Rail Trail, you will find many other spots in the West River that are perfect for swimming with canines. There are two picnic tables along the river next to the rail trail, maybe a halfmile from the parking area. Both are located near prime swimming spots. Directions: Jamaica State Park is located on Route 30/100 within walking distance of the village of Jamaica. Turn onto Depot Street when you get to Jamaica and cross the bridge over the river. There is a fee to enter Jamaica State Park for the day ($4 for adults, $2 for kids). n
Photo left by Ali Kaukas, this page by Tara Schatz
Dorset Quarry, Manchester The Dorset Quarry is the onlyVermont swimming hole in our list that isn’t located on a river. This is the oldest marble quarry in the United States. It opened in 1785 and supplied marble to the New York Public Library, several mansions in New York City, and Memorial Continental Hall of the Daughters of the American Revolution in Washington, D.C. Thank goodness it no longer operates as a quarry, because now it’s one of the most popular swimming holes in southern Vermont. The water here is deep and cold, and there are plenty of places for cliff jumping, picnicking, and exploring. There are a few port-apotties for changing in. Access is free but there is a $15 charge to
park at the adjacent Marble Park. Directions: From Manchester, take Route 30 North into Dorset. The Dorset Quarry is about 4.6 miles from Manchester Center on your right.
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Photo courtesy Lamoille Valley Bike Tours
Around Vermont, old rail beds are being converted to trails where you can ride for miles through quiet countryside with no traffic. Avid backcountry skier and author David Goodman explores these routes.
When it is completed this fall, the 93-mile Lamoille Valley Rail Trail will be the longest in New England. The stretch from Morrisville to Johnson is open now and provides stunning views. Lamoille Valley Bike Tours rents bikes, including e-bikes, and can arrange shuttles to any point on the trail.
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hen I was in college, I freight-hopped across the country, experiencing America from the open doors of empty rail cars. Years later, my wife Sue and I took a two-day train journey from Zimbabwe into South Africa. It felt like time was suspended as we crossed the African desert, mesmerized by the rhythmic pulse of rolling steel. It had been a while since I reveled in a slow ride on a long, flat, straight path through a magnificent landscape. But recently, I have been doing so on two wheels, exploring Vermont’s growing network of rail trails. In the last few years, miles of rusting steel ribbon that once crossed Vermont have been removed to make way for paths of crushed gravel and cinder, perfect for the rubber soles of running or hiking shoes or two not-so-knobby tires. Rail routes, once the foundation of travel, still crisscross Vermont’s
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valleys, carving through farmland and bordering the major rivers, with easy stopovers at brew pubs and wineries, B&Bs, farm stands, classic general stores and old opera houses. Many local bike shops now offer shuttle services, e-bike rentals and trip planning for rail trail riders. The national rails-to-trails movement dates to the mid-1960s, when the first rail trails opened in the Midwest. In the 1980s, after Congress deregulated the railroad industry, unprofitable routes closed around the country and 4,000 to 8,000 miles of rail lines were abandoned each year. Congress then passed a law to allow for the preservation of abandoned rail corridors and enable their conversion into multi-use trails, a process known as railbanking. A number of Vermont’s small rail lines closed in the 1980s and 1990s, including the Delaware & Hudson line (now the D&H Rail Trail from Castleton to Rupert), a portion of the Central Vermont Railway (closed in 1985, and now the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail), and the St.
Photo by David Goodman
I have a lifelong romance with the rails.
Photo by David Goodman
Johnsbury and Lake Champlain Railroad line (closed in 1995, and now the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail). Under Gov. Howard Dean, the state of Vermont moved to railbank the corridors. Sue Minter, my wife and cycling partner, authored Vermont’s first bicycle and pedestrian plan in 1996, and later served on the House Transportation Committee and was Secretary of Transportation. She explains: “What we are seeing now is the fruition of efforts begun by Gov. Dean, who championed rail trails throughout the 1990s. The Lamoille Valley Rail Trail got a huge boost in 2005 when then-Rep. Bernie Sanders secured a $5.2 million earmark for VAST to transform an underutilized resource into a bike and snowmobile trail.” Now, Vermont is on the cusp of a golden age of rail trails. Burlington’s bike path, a feeder to the Island Line Rail trail has been redeveloped and rerouted. By this fall, the last section of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail should be complete, making it possible to ride from St. Johnsbury to Swanton on the Canadian border. While that trail has been spurred on by a recent injection of nearly $14.3 million in state and federal funds, several other rail trails are also being built out. This past spring, the Cross Vermont Trail saw new sections and a bridge completed in Montpelier, part of a vision that would create a trail that runs from Wells, on the New Hampshire border, to Burlington. The 19.8-mile Vermont portion of the D&H Rail trail crosses western Rutland and Bennington counties in two sections – one between Castleton and Poultney, the other between West Pawlet and Rupert. When the entire route is completed, you should be able to ride nearly 34 miles from Castleton to West Pawlet, off-road, and then on to New York’s East Salem village.
Sue Minter rides the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail, which follows the Missisquoi River through the farmlands of northwestern Vermont.
Two sections of the West River Rail Trail can be ridden now: South Londonderry to Townshend and West Dummerston to Brattleboro. The goal is to open the entire 36-mile route. Rail trails have several key benefits: there are no cars, they are flat, and they travel through beautiful countryside. In winter, many of the trails are used by fat bikes, skiers, and snowmobiles. I recently rode parts of three Vermont rail trails. All three rail trails are meticulously graded and have surfaces of fine packed gravel (except the paved Burlington Bike Path), making them suitable for all types of bikes. (We used road bikes with standard 700 x 28cm road tires.) In addition to great riding, we couldn’t pass up another attraction on or near each of these rail trails: Vermont craft breweries. We ended each ride by raising a glass. While there are dozens of shorter rail trail sections around the state where you can ride, walk, hike or ski, these six trails are worth a day trip or an overnight. Set up camp or check into one of the trailside B&B’s, stop at the local brew pub and make a weekend out of it.
MISSISQUOI VALLEY RAIL TRAIL Length: 26.4 miles, St. Albans to Richford.
What was once the route of a milk train that serviced the farms of Franklin County is now the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail (MVRT). In the early 1990s, the state of Vermont and local citizens began converting the former Central Vermont Railway into a multi-use trail that follows the Missisquoi River through the farmlands of Franklin County with views east to the Greens. We started in the Rail City, St. Albans, whose downtown has undergone a renaissance in recent years. The trailhead was easy to find: a large brown MRVT sign and a bicycle mounted high on a post signaled our arrival. A trailhead kiosk and parking lot has free color maps and a guide to the entire trail. As we rolled out of St. Albans on the well-maintained rail trail, we passed walkers, cyclists and runners in the first few miles. The population on the trail and in the countryside thinned quickly as we rolled through open farmland. Views stretched over miles of green corn fields to where Jay Peak rose in the distance. After 7 miles we came to Sheldon, a former summer resort based around the town’s once-famous mineral springs. The 100-room hotels have long since been replaced by dairy sheds that shelter an equivalent number of cows. In 1984, a train derailment damaged a bridge here and that marked the end of the rail service on this line. The Lamoille Valley Rail Trail connects to the MVRT at mile 9, opening possibilities for extended and even multiday tours across the state.
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We continued riding through farm fields with views of the northern Greens. At mile 16 we came to the town of Enosburg Falls, where cyclists can refuel at diners and convenience stores. We stopped to eat lunch in front of the beautifully restored Enosburg Opera House, built in 1892. A summer theater camp was in full swing and a community theater was rehearsing on stage. We pedaled on for several more miles north of Enosburg to take in views over the Missisquoi River rapids, which parallels the trail. This section of river is part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, a water trail that runs from NewYork to Maine.This scenic high point was where we turned around for a fast ride back to St. Albans. More info: champlainbikeways.org
LAMOILLE VALLEY RAIL TRAIL Length: 93 miles St. Johnsbury to Swanton
After two decades of debate, planning, and construction, the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is now a reality—partly. Three sections of trail are currently open for riding: St. Johnsbury to Danville (15.4 miles), Morristown to Cambridge (17.4 miles) and Swanton to Sheldon (11.6 miles). When completed and connected to the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail, the route will run 93 miles, spanning the state from St. Johnsbury to Swanton. Managed by the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers (VAST), the trail is already popular with snowmobilers and skiers in the winter. The most popular section, from Morrisville to Cambridge, has been online for several years. We arrived at the trailhead in downtown Morrisville to find a bustling parking lot of riders. Lamoille Valley Bike Tours was there renting electric bikes and one family with small children was happily enjoying the silent electric assist of these bikes. We headed out on the former St. Johnsbury and Lake Champlain Railroad line, which ceased operation in 1995, and pedaled across a restored railroad bridge. Within a mile, we passed Lost Nation Brewing, a craft brewery and restaurant which is located alongside the
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Start, or better yet, finish your ride on the Lamoille Valley Trail at Morrisville’s Lost Nation Brewing.
trail, and its bike rack was packed. We knew immediately where we would end the day. The trail follows the meandering Lamoille River in the first few miles. After passing through Hyde Park, we emerged into open farm fields with expansive views of Mt. Mansfield. Sue and I clicked into a rhythm as we rolled through the pastures at a good clip, taking in the different perspective on the mountains that we ski in the winter. As we arrived in Johnson after 8 miles of riding, the skies opened up with rain. We took shelter at a LVRT trailhead kiosk located at a covered picnic spot at Old Mill Park. Several other riders soon joined us. The sun returned and we rode on to Cambridge, where the old train station has been restored and converted into a community playground with a train theme. We slowly rode through a historic covered bridge and admired the elaborate trusswork. From Cambridge, a mile-long Greenway Trail brought us to Jeffersonville, where we stopped at The Farm Store, which features an espresso bar, home-baked breads and local products. Sue and I spotted posts outside that were topped with replica golden horse heads. We both smiled: this was what remained of Le Cheval D’Or, a small French restaurant where I proposed to Sue 32 years ago. Farm Store owner Jennifer Bishop loved hearing our tale, and offered us one of the old black lanterns that once hung in the restaurant. Like the railroad, every building has history here. More info: lvrt.org
Photo by David Goodman
Nearby Ski Resorts: Smuggler’s Notch, Jay Peak Camp: Lake Carmi State Park is a few miles north of Enosburg Falls. Bike Shops: Bootlegger Bike Shop, Jeffersonville & St. Albans. Fuel Up: The Flying Disc coffee shop in Enosburg Falls not only serves coffee drinks and smoothies and sells jewelry and old vinyl records and canoes you can rent from the town recreation department if you want to leave your bike and paddle back to your car on the Missisquoi.
Nearby Ski Resorts: Smuggler’s Notch, Jay Peak, Stowe. Camp: Mountain View Campground in Morrisville is about 5 miles from the trail. Bike Shops: Bootlegger Bike Shop, Jeffersonville & St. Albans; Lamoille Valley Bike Tours in Johnson, Chuck’s Bike Shop and PowerPlay Sports in Morrisville. Fuel Up: Start or end your ride at Lost Nation Brewery in Morrisville, right on the rail trail.
ISLAND LINE TRAIL
Length: 14 miles (rail trail); 30+ miles, Champlain Islands tour. One of the most scenic rail trails in the Northeasf is the Island Line Trail. Started as the Rutland Railroad in 1901, the rail trail runs from Oak Ledge Park in Burlington, follows the shores of Lake Champlain on the Burlington Bike Path, It crosses the lake via a three-mile long causeway to South Hero and a short bike ferry ride. The path is paved until shortly before the causeway, which has a crushed gravel surface. We set out on a ride through the Champlain Islands by starting at Airport Park in Colchester. After a mile-long ride through the Colchester Bog, the rail trail abruptly launches out into Lake Champlain on a narrow rail bed built atop large marble boulders. We were surrounded by water and mountains. We spun along, with views of the Adirondacks to the west and the Green Mountains to the east. We soon came to The Cut, a 200foot gap in the causeway, and boarded a bike ferry that Local Motion operates from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Emerging at South Hero, we continued our ride past Snow Farm Vineyard where you can stop for wine tastings from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (I suggest you save this for the return leg), often with live bands
playing. Sue and continued on the Stone Castles bike tour (so named by champlainbikeways.org, which has a great list of bike tours around Lake Champlain), and had fun finding the many miniature castles that dot the landscape of South Hero. As we cycled by the acclaimed Blue Paddle Bistro in South Hero, we couldn’t resist popping in to make a dinner reservation, then dashed back across the lake to catch the last bike ferry and rode back to the car. More info: localmotion.org Nearby Ski Resorts: Bolton Valley, Smuggler’s Notch, Jay Peak. Camp: Grand Isle State Park in South Hero or leave your bike in North Hero and kayak out to Knight Island or Woods Island State Parks. Bike Shops: Outdoor Gear Exchange, Burlington; Bootlegger Bike Shop, St. Albans. Fuel Up: Stop at one of the Champlain Islands winery tasting rooms, such as Snow Farm or Ellison Estate Vineyards or pick up home-made pastries at DonnaSue’s roadside farmstand on Route 2 in Grand Isle.
WELLS TO MONTPELIER RAIL TRAIL Length: 18 miles, South Ryegate to Marshfield
Photo by David Goodman
Just south of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, the Montpelier-Wells Rail Trail makes up the wildest and most scenic part of a route that’s being mapped and developed as the Cross Vermont Trail. It will go more than 90 mile east/west across the state between Wells and Burlington. For many years, the “Granite Train” ran a 45-mile stretch of tracks, connecting the mines of Barre with the main train lines that ran down the Connecticut River valley.The trail is now made up of three sections, the longest of which runs 18 miles through Groton State Forest. From Ricker Pond, at the southern end of Groton State Forest, nearly all the way to Marshfield, you can ride dirt and cinder trails through largely From Burlington, it’s just 14 miles out the undeveloped land. Watch out for moose and causeway on the Island Line Trail to the deer. Champlain Islands. Stop at Lake Groton or Kettle Pond for a dip. Camp out at Groton State Park’s many camp sites or book a room at the state-owned Seyon Lodge in the middle of the forest. In Groton State Forest the trail can get rough at times, so be prepared. But you’ll also be rewarded with plenty of places to stop and parking areas where you can cut short the 21-mile ride. More info: crossvermont.org Nearby Ski Resorts: Sugarbush, Burke, Ascutney. Camp: Groton State Forest has hundreds of great campsites, including several that are lakeside. Bike Shops: Onion River Sports in Montpelier. Fuel Up: Reprovision at the Marshfield General Store or continue on to Positive Pie in Plainfield.
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Riding through Groton State Forest on the Cross Vermont Trail.
DELAWARE & HUDSON LINE RAIL TRAIL Length:19.8 miles in two sections
College trailhead. From there, the trail runs south to Poultney before crossing into New York. At present, the trail stops for about four miles over the New York border where it becomies densely overgrown, before picking up again in Granville. This is one of two portions that New York State wants to build out and when that is complete, you will be able to ride 34 miles south to West Pawlet and then all the way to East Salem. If you start or end in Granville, you can make a weekend of it if you book a room at the Station House B&B (in the old train station) or at
Little to no bike or foot traffic, open meadows, a goat farm with a selfserve cheese stand, a slate baron’s mansion (now a B&B) are just a few of the things that make the Delaware & Hudson Line rail trail, one of the most interesting and beautiful trails in the state. Once named the “The Bridge Line to New England and Canada,” the Delaware and Hudson line once connected New York with Montreal, Quebec and New England. During the 1800s, it transported minerals up and down the East Coast, crossing the western portion of Vermont. “Slate picker” cars stopped in Castleton, Granville and Poultney (a region still known as “Slate Valley”) and carried roofing slate from Vermont to towns around New England. The railroad went bankrupt in the 1970s and a decade later the state of Vermont purchased the abandoned tracks. It began rehabbing the route as a rail trail and put in more than 17 wood-deck bridges to span the many streams and rivers. Today, the rail trail still relies on its cinder and gravel bed and is better suited to wider or knobby tires of a hybrid or mountain bike. Start at the Amtrak station in Castleton The D&H Rail Trail is a gourmet’s dream with Mach’s Market at one end in Pawlet, Consider Bardwell Farm and or at the parking area at the Castleton State creamery in the middle, and Sherman’s General Store in Rupert at the southern terminus.
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the red slate Sheldon Mansion Inn whose 10 acres border the trail. A brewery, Slate Town Brewery is there too. South of Granville, you’ll ride through some dense forests before the view opens up to quiet meadows and farmland. This is one of Rutland Audubon’s birding hotspots, a place where warblers migrate or you might scare up a ruffed grouse. As the trail crosses the 300-acre Consider Bardwell goat farm, watch for a small sign for the serveyourself farmstand where you can buy the creamery’s award-winning cheeses. From there you can continue south to West Pawlet. As one reviewer writes on Traillink.com, “When riding this trail you’re almost always alone with your thoughts - you DO see others but it’s not the highway that other trails can be. It’s a country trail bisecting fields, paralleling a stream for a good portion of the ride, cow pastures, some old ‘urban’ decay near West Pawlet and Granville, but it’s completely scenic, quiet, and easily ridden.” More info: vtstateparks.com/dh-rail-trail Nearby Ski Resorts: Killington, Pico, Stratton, Bromley. Camp: Lake St. Catherine State Park is a short bike from the trailhead in Poultney or camp or stay in one of the hike-to cabins at the Merck Forest & Farmland Center in Rupert. Bike Shops: Analog Cycles in Poultney or Battenkill Bikes in Manchester. Fuel Up: This area has a wealth of classic Vermont general stores that have been revived and serve farmfresh fare, including Mach’s Market and Smokehouse in Pawlet, and Sherman’s General Store in Rupert.
WEST RIVER TRAIL, SOUTH LONDONDERRY TO TOWNSHEND Length 18.1 miles, Upper Section, 3.5 miles Lower Section
With swimming holes along the way, covered bridges, campgrounds where you can pitch a tent or stay in a shelter, and plenty of places to reprovision, the West River Trail is a great introduction to riding (or walking) a rail trail. The pathway follows the West River along what may be one of the oldest
transportation routes in the state. Native Americans called the West River “the Wantastiquet” or “waters of the lonely way,” and it was part of a system of waterways and overland routes that connected Lake Champlain to the Otter Creek to the West River to the Connecticut in Brattleboro. In 1879, the existing path was developed into a rail bed for the West River Railroad, a winding, narrow-gauge railroad that earned the nickname “36 miles of trouble.” In 1903, a local newspaper dubbed it the “trydaily” route; “they go down in the morning and try to get back at night.” Today, some of the old depots have been restored and when the trail is completed, it will run the full 36 miles. For now, though, the West River Rail Trail is in two sections – the 18.1 mile upper section from South Londonderry to Townshend and a lower section, from West Dummerston to Brattleboro. The South Londonderry Depot serves as a trailhead and museum for the West River Railroad. Start there and you can follow the trail for about 2.7 miles to the Winhall Brook campground trailhead. From there, it’s about 5 miles south to Ball Mountain Dam where steep switchbacks drop the trail down and it heads on to Jamaica State Park, where you can also camp for the night. At present, the upper section of the West River Trail ends at Townshend Dam, about 18 miles from South Londonderry. A separate 3.5-mile section runs from West Dummerston south to Brattleboro, following the river. More info: westrivertrail.org. Nearest Ski Resorts: Magic, Bromley and Stratton are all within a 20-minute drive from the South Londonderry trailhead. Camp:Winhall Brook Campground or Jamaica State Park. Bike Shops: Equipe Sports in Rawsonville rents mountain bikes. Fuel Up: Order ahead and pick up takeout house-made sausages and burgers at HoneyPie on Route 30 in Jamaica or provision and pick up pizza or a fajita at West River Provisions in Jamaica. n Contributing editor David Goodman is the author of Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast: 50 Classic Ski and Snowboard Tours in New England and New York. He lives inWaterbury Center, Vt.
The West Dummerston bridge near the Brattleboro section of the West River Trail is the longest covered bridge in the state.
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Credit
John Fusco started his career at 16 playing in a blues band. He’s still turning out albums, the most recent is “Borderlands, “ produced in Stowe with George Walker Petit. Photo by Dik Darnell.
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STOWE FILMMAKER AND SCREENWRITER JOHN FUSCO IS TEAMING UP WITH ACTOR AND FORMER SKI RACER PATRICK DEMPSEY TO MAKE A CINEMATIC ODE TO THE VANISHING SKI TOWN CULTURE.
By Lisa Lynn
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get to John Fusco’s home you drive north from Stowe on long dirt roads. There are few road signs in these parts and the GPS lacks conviction. Perhaps the only clue that you have arrived at the 200-acre hill farm is a small security camera that winks red at the gateway. The dirt drive winds up and up, past the large barn where for many years Fusco ran what he calls “an Assisted Living Home for Movie Star Horses.” Those horses included Oscar, the horse that played the lead role in Fusco’s film Hidalgo and 30 or so mustangs, a dwindling breed of pure-blooded Native American horses that Fusco tried to strengthen so he could return them to the tribes. Around another bend is an orchard where 100-year-old trees carry early nubs of Wolf River and McIntosh apples. A broad field flanks the steep hillside and finally, at the top, at 1,600 feet of elevation, stands a mid-sized house that is all porches and views. Fusco greets me at the top of the drive. He looks like he stepped out of one his films: unmistakable with his mane of salt-and-pepper hair, John Lennon-style round dark glasses and muscled frame. We head past the house, to a grassy terrace that looks out across the meadow to the mountains beyond. “You can see to Jay Peak from here,” he says. It is a view worthy of a wide angle on a big screen.
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I’ve wanted to ask Fusco, the award-winning screenwriter, film producer and musician, two things. One: why a successful filmmaker who is best known for creating Westerns such as Thunderheart, Young Guns, DreamKeeper and the animated movie Spirit: The Stallion of the Cimarron, has lived in Vermont for more than half of his 63 years. The other question involves just what he was doing in Utah this past June researching avalanche control with actor Patrick Dempsey. The answers come together in a series he is writing and producing about the changes happening to a fictional ski town. “A Neo-Western,” he calls the ski town concept that Dempsey brought to him. “I think the best American Westerns are set during that period when the West is coming to an end,” he explains. “There’s a nostalgia and an almost elegiac quality to them. That’s why I see this ski film set in an old Western silver mining town with a saloon and vestiges of cowboy culture. Except now you’ve got these Goldman Sachs cowboys. And you’ve got people selling faux furs and Gucci. It’s like Beverly Hills descends on this prototype of his Western ski town. I really want to capture that and all the issues that surround it.” If anyone can produce the cinematic elegy for a ski town, it would be Patrick Dempsey, who grew up ski racing in Lewiston, Maine and was, at one point the state slalom champ. Put him together with writer John Fusco, and it is bound to ring true.
The best American Westerns are set during that period when the West is coming to an end. There’s a nostalgia and an almost elegiac quality to them. That’s why I see this ski film set in an old Western silver mining town with a saloon and vestiges of cowboy culture. Except now you’ve got these Goldman Sachs cowboys...
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usco is a writer and film producer who, in the vein of an Annie Proulx or Cormac McCarthy, deeply feels and beautifully conveys a sense of place—particularly the American West. His films reach far into the dusty corners of rural America. In Fusco’s settings, everyone is a neighbor or connected in some way and the line between a hero and an anti-hero is a squiggly one.
Photo courtesy John Fusco
Fusco, left and actor Patrick Dempsey on the porch of Rip’s Cabin (used in the series, Yellowstone) at the Thousand Acre Ranch in Park City, Utah where they plan to shoot.
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“West Dallas, 1934. Screen doors slapping shut. Old gas stations. The migrant work camps. It’s just this… this… soul that attracts Fusco manages his 200 acres in me to tell the story as a kind of travel drive Morrisville for wildlife habitat and, oh with these with two old Texas Rangers whose yes, skiing. He grooms a network of ski time has passed by and to spend 52 days with trails through his woods and meadows. them in the car as they search for Bonnie and Clyde,” he says of The Highwaymen, the 2019 film he wrote which starred Kevin Costner and Woody Harrelson as the two rangers. To write Thunderheart, the 1992 film loosely based on the Wounded Knee Occupation, Fusco spent five years at Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota, the second largest Native American reservation in the U.S. “I really wanted to observe and study the people and turn clichés on their head. So, if you see a medicine man, he’s watching Sesame Street on TV and he wants an ice cream. There’s this sense of survival humor there. It’s not what you think of with these stereotypes of Native American people,” he says. Fusco, in accurately portraying the tribes, not only learned the language, he earned their respect. He was So, do you believe in your mission statement? Do adopted into the Oglala Nation in the hunkyapi you care about profits more than powder? What about ceremony. To make the Netflix series, Marco Polo, Fusco localization giving way to centralization and losing the and his son Giovanni rode across Mongolia individual character that attracts people to these ski along the Silk Road on half-wild horses. For his films The Forbidden Kingdom (starring Jackie areas? Is it all going to become McMountains? Chan) and his screenplay for Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon: Sword of Destiny, Fusco drew on his experience in the martial arts and his practice with the related Crossroads. It launched Fusco’s career and inspired the video game, philosophies. He began learning martial arts at age 12 and has a black “Guitar Hero III, Legends of Rock.” Both Crossroads, and Fusco’s prior sash in Shaolin kung fu. He also co-produced Bruce Lee’s The Silent student screenplay won the Nissan-Focus Award. Since then, Fusco has played with the likes of Jackson Browne and Flute. toured for a short time with the Dixie Road Ducks. He has turned out ut mostly, John Fusco’s films capture the vanishing vestiges of several albums, the most recent is Borderlands, a collaboration with rural America. “I’m just drawn to rural Americana, its people, Stowe musician George Walker Petit. cultures and rituals, the literature, the music,” he says. “I grew ermont has always played a role in Fusco’s life. Fusco’s father up on a dirt road in a part of Connecticut that was not Greenwich. I owned a fishing cabin on the Tweed River, near Stockbridge. mean my father owned an auto salvage yard contiguous to a pig farm.” “Going there as a young boy and being exposed to native Fusco was living in Prospect, Ct., working in factories and playing music in local bars when he dropped out of high school at age 16 and Vermonters early on I thought, wow, this place just has so much more began travelling the Deep South and the Mississippi Delta playing in character and soul,” he says. The dark glasses come off and he looks out across a field below. blues bands. “We would go to Vermont for a long weekend, and it was everything After six years, he returned home and enrolled at the local Naugatuck Valley Community College where he met his wife, Richela I loved. The wildlife there was more vital. There are black bear, moose. Renkun, and then transferred to New York University’s Tisch School It had a real sense region. The Vermont accent. The lore. Vermont has this kind of rugged individualism,” he says. “There’s a don’t-meddleof the Arts. At Tisch, Fusco took a master class in screenwriting with Waldo let’s-give-each-other-our-space mentality. But if you need me, by Salt and Ring Lardner, Jr. His final project for the class was a screenplay Jesus, I’ll be the first one there.” His wife Richela had grown up on a dairy farm and she had about a 17-year-old traveling the South with a blues musician who has sold his soul to the devil. That screenplay, based loosely around the connections to southern Vermont. Neither had been north of Rutland legend of blues musician Robert Johnson, was made into the movie when they decided one day to take a drive.
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ctor Patrick Dempsey, best known as “McDreamy” on the TV series Grey’s Anatomy, reached out to Fusco this past spring. Fusco paraphrases the conversation: “‘You interested in doing a series about a ski town?’ Patrick asked. I was like ‘I live in Stowe Vermont,’ I’ll be surrounded by inspiration!” “Patrick and I really hit it off.We keep texting each other ideas.We already have the name of the ski town and the ski area. I can’t say too much, but it’s based on the real stuff that’s happening now in ski towns like Park City and Stowe and the issues they face.” Fusco and Dempsey spent much of June scouting locations in Utah’s Wasatch backcountry and hope to start shooting there in winter of 2023. “I want people to watch the series and say ‘I want to ski there!’ But of course, they can’t: it will all be a fictional ski area,” he says. There may be scenes set in Telluride or Montana, but the gist of the plot draws from the real-life travails that Park City is facing and a “mom-and-pop ski area that was started by a guy from the Tenth Mountain Division,” Fusco says. With this film, as he has done with all his others, Fusco is diving deep in the research. “We just spent a week with Craig Gordon who is one of the top avalanche forecasters because we are going to have to deal with that,” he says of the script. “I was also connected to Sam Howard who has been a huge help,” he says of the Alta patrolman who grew up in St. Albans and whose brother Dave Howard, is one of Mount Mansfield’s better skiers. Fusco has been regularly reading the local paper, the Park Record, and
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A consummate outdoorsman, Fusco does some backyard grilling.
mining Heather Hansman’s book about the end of the ski bum culture, Powder Days: Ski Bums, Ski Towns and the Future of Chasing Snow. And, of course, there is a big corporate ski company. Fusco and Dempsey did their due diligence there, too. “We tried to reach Vail Resorts, here [in Stowe] and I had an initial response, but then we weren’t able to reach them again. We also tried Alterra,” Fusco says. They finally got a meeting with two of Vail Resorts’ senior corporate officers. “What we said to them was, ‘You know, we’re responsible dramatists and we’re not going after low hanging fruit, because that’s bad drama. And in our in our business, in the dramatic world, the best villains are villains who feel that they’re in the right.’ I really wanted to hear what they have to say,” he says. Fusco leans forward, recounting the conversation with the corporate execs: “So the people we’re talking to see you as the Devil and you know that we’re all reading the same paper, the Park Record and the letters to the editor? So, do you believe in your mission statement? Do you care about profits more than powder? What about localization giving way to centralization and losing the individual character that attracts people these areas. Is it all going to become McMountains?” Fusco sits back and continues. “They were appreciative, these two ladies, of us not taking the easy way out and just snidely whiplashing them.They gave us their side of the story, the behind the scenes and what they are up against.”
Courtesy John Fusco
They came into Stowe on an evening when it was snowing, and the village was lit up with Christmas lights. “Richela looks around and says, ‘this looks like a Currier & Ives painting.’ Then we did two things; we checked into The Gables Inn and the next day we called a realtor.” That was 38 years ago. And while it took a few years and a few movies for the Fuscos to build the house on the farm where they live now, Vermont became home and it’s where they raised their son, Giovanni, now 28. “When we came here, we had a place in New York and a place in Los Angeles and we sold both of those,” Fusco says. “My agent said I was committing career suicide. But I wanted to write on spec, not those contract scripts that pay so well. The first thing I wrote in Vermont was Young Guns and that was a hit and then there was Young Guns II. So, Vermont worked out.” Fusco has written one screenplay about Vermont, telling the story of the state’s founder, Ethan Allen and his band of Green Mountain Boys. “At one point we had Barry Levinson signed on and Leo Di Caprio was going to play Ethan Allen. They were here,” he says, nodding toward the field below us. “We were going to shoot scenes on the property –which meant I could ride my horse to work,” he says with a laugh. However, Fusco could not get the state to offer the tax incentive (“25% of budget,” he says is what it would have taken) to make the film in Vermont. He had offers from other places to shoot there but, as he says, “I realized if we made it somewhere else and it didn’t quite turn out, we’d have to move, and we love this place too much to do so.” He killed his own film. But being in Vermont, in a ski town, has helped him with his current project; a streaming series about a ski town.
AMC BOOKS • NOVEMBER 2020
During the meeting, one of the Vail Resorts execs picked up a newspaper and read a letter to the editor. “She said, ‘Did you see this letter?’ and then read it: ‘Dear tourists coming to Park City, please go away. We don’t want you here. You are ruining our town.’” Fusco pauses. “‘Now is that inclusive?’ she asked.” Living near the Vail-owned Stowe Mountain Resort, Fusco has firsthand knowledge of the issues that have arisen as both Covid and Vail Resort’s Epic pass have caused an influx to ski towns, driving up real estate prices and snarling traffic. “This winter I was one of the people who was trying to get somewhere on the Mountain Road and had to turn around the traffic was so bad. I can see the changes here, too,” he says. There is a moment of silence as wind blows through the meadow ruffling the grasses. Then Fusco chuckles. “I was just in Colorado and when a friend of mine introduced me to someone as being from Vermont, the guys goes; “Vermont! Man, that’s the Promised Land! That’s where we all have to go now. You guys have water… “ Fusco’s voice trails off. “Well, there goes the neighborhood,” he says with a shrug.
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he one thing Fusco has not witnessed firsthand is the effect the increase in Epic Pass skiers has had on Stowe’s Mount Mansfield. “The funny thing about this movie is now my good friend John Teague is telling me I’ll have to get on skis,” he says, referring to the former University of Vermont head alpine coach and veteran of Mount Mansfield Academy. While Fusco used to snowboard at Stowe, now he mostly Nordic skis. You might find him on the trails at the Trapp Family Lodge or at Craftsbury Outdoor Center. Mostly, he skis on the trails he cuts and grooms all through his 200 acres. “I love cross-country. I love that you are silently gliding, and you can really get out there with wildlife and be in this kind of Tao, or Zen state.” Living on a farm in Vermont has only fine-tuned Fusco’s keen love of nature and wildlife. “I go to bed reading wildlife biology books. We manage our property for wildlife, and plant that meadow down there for grouse and woodcock,” he says. He tells me about the generational family of foxes that live in the meadow. He knows them individually and their habits. In recent years, he has become involved with and supported the Kilham Bear Center in New Hampshire. “Rescued bear cubs often get sent there after the mom has been shot by someone who was raising chickens— playing ‘Little House on the Fucking Prairie’ as my wife Richela calls it.” Bears, like the foxes, are also his neighbors. “The other morning, I was up early playing the piano and just at sunrise I got this weird tingly feeling that someone was watching me,” he says. “I turned and there was one of the bigger black bears I’ve ever seen – probably 450 pounds – looking in the window at me. He paused and then went on his way.” The bears, the foxes, the grouse: they are all a part of this place Fusco calls home. He knows that long before there were tourists here, or skiers, or the dairy farmers who cleared the meadow and planted the orchard—or even the Abenaki— this place belonged to them. n
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vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 49
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COACH By Lisa Lynn
Photo courtesy USSA
GET MORE PADDLE POWER Champion paddler, medical correspondent and author, Dr. Bob Arnot shares his advice on how to get more power, and fewer back-aches when you paddle.
Come summer, you can find Stowe skier Dr. Bob Arnot practicing his paddling at the Burlington Surf Club.
“M
ost people can probably gain about a mile per hour by improving their paddle stroke,” estimates Dr. Bob Arnot. He should know: during a race he pushes his board through the water at anywhere from four to six mph. Dr. Arnot has raced in some of the toughest SUP races in the world, including Molokai to Oahu, a 32-mile open ocean crossing with 20-foot waves and curious
vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 51
Waterbury Reservoir near his home in Stowe or at the Burlington Surf Club on Lake Champlain. Here are some of his pro tips: The Stance When I first started out, I thought this was all about strength and my arms and pecks were sore as heck. In truth, there is no better core workout than paddling. When you paddle right, everything is engaged: your abs, your pecks, your hamstrings. To set up the proper stance, stand with your knees shoulder-width apart and bent. Start by making an “A-frame” by leaning forward, using your body to form the left side of the A and then let the paddle form the right side. That’s where you want the paddle to enter the water. Next, extend your lower arm out as far as you can and grasp the paddle, then “stack” your upper arm on top of that. Your body should be facing the side of the board, one arm above the other. How far up or down you hold your lower hand on the paddle is like how hard a gear you use on a bike – higher up will mean a shorter, easier stroke; lower down gives you more power. The Catch How and where the blade enters the water has a big impact on how efficient your stroke is. To make “the catch,” the point where the blade catches the water, be its most powerful and effective, you want the paddle to be almost vertical. To do that, you have to stack your shoulders, one over the other, and bend at the waist. Your upper hand should be over your head, your torso slightly twisted and your lower arm reaching slightly forward. The Stroke When you put the paddle in the water you want just the blade in. At this point, arms should be straight, your hips should be square but your torso should be slightly turned and facing the side of the board where you are paddling.You want to use your torso and the pressure on your upper hand to pull the paddle through the water and back to your ankle. Any paddling past your ankle is wasted effort.
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Jason Starr demonstrates a stroke. Starr, the owner of Paddlesurf Champlain, gives lessons and rents stand-up paddleboards in Burlington.
Turning If you simply paddle more on one side you’ll start to change direction but to make a tighter turn, you can use a sweep stroke, by putting the paddle blade on edge as it enters the water, and then sweeping out and away from the board, like if you were sweeping a broom. A more abrupt turn can be made by back paddling and even more so by pivoting the board. To do a pivot turn, put one foot back to sink the tail and lift the nose out of the water while keeping your blade in the water for balance. Once the nose is out of the water, take a series of short strokes on one side to make the board turn to the other then gradually bring the other foot back forward to the regular position. n
Photo by Oliver Parini
sharks. “It was incredible,” he says “you’re way out in the ocean with this deep deep blue all around you and enormous waves to surf.” “Paddle boarding is the best workout,” he says. “It’s a great test of your balance – your legs are constantly engaged. It’s aerobic and anaerobic, it works your core muscles and it builds strength.” And, he notes, you can do it anywhere you can find a body of water. “With so many lakes, Vermont is a great place to learn,” he says. When he’s not writing best selling health and nutrition books (such as The Aztec Diet and 11 other books), the former NBC chief medical correspondent and host of the reality show Dr. Danger can be found training on the
The Cadence You typically do 5 or so strokes on one side and then switch to the other. But if you can increase your cadence and do more strokes, you can increase your speed. Don’t focus as much on the power you put into each pull as the speed and cadence. Just like cycling in a lower gear, quicker strokes will have less impact on your body but will keep you moving fast. I like to paddle with a heart-rate monitor and during a race, keep it at about 140 to 160.
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RETRO VT GREEN MOUNTAIN TRIVIA How well do you know the history of the Green Mountains? Take the quiz.
Y
ou ski or ride them all winter. You hike them in the summer. But how well do you know the history of Vermont’s Green Mountains? While they may appear pristine, the forests and the summits have been the sites of hotels, roads and other proposed developments. See how many of these true/false statements you get right.
Photos courtesy Vermont Historical Society
1. The Green Mountains are relatively new mountains. The Green Mountains were formed 400 to 500 million years ago and are part of the Appalachian range which runs from Newfoundland south to central Alabama. Compare that with the Rockies, which were formed 35 to 80 million years ago. In fact, Vermont is also home to the oldest reef in the world, at least one built by a community of organisms. The Chazy Reef, in the Champlain Islands, was formed by sea creatures in the Southern Hemisphere over 500 million years ago. The shifting tectonic plates that helped shape the Greens also moved the reef north to where it is now at Vermont’s Isle La Motte in Lake Champlain. FALSE 2. There were once summit hotels atop several of the Green Mountains. In the late 1800s, hotels were built at or near the summits of some of Vermont’s most prominent peaks, including Mount Mansfield, Killington and Camel’s Hump. Guests arrived by carriage or horse. In 1857, William Henry Harrison Bingham built The Summit House near the Nose of Mount Mansfield as a hotel to attract summer visitors. It opened with 70 rooms, but no bar, though guests would often bring their own libations. Summer guests — who included Ralph Waldo Emerson and other luminaries — would either hike up or would be driven up the Toll Road by carriage or car. Many would use the hotel as a base for exploring Mount Mansfield and the surrounding mountains. That hotel was closed in 1957 and later destroyed. In 1879, a carriage road was built to the summit of
Killington and a year later a hotel opened at the peak. The hotel expanded and plans called for an electric railway up the mountain. But by 1907, that hotel closed. In 1859, a small inn or hotel went up on Camel’s Hump, about 0.3 miles below the summit. Sam Ridley built The Green Mountain House and travelers would go as far up the mountain as they could by carriage before switching to horseback to reach the hotel. It was destroyed by fire in 1875. TRUE.
Ralph Waldo Emerson is one of the luminaries who checked into The Summit House on Mount Mansfield in the late 1800s (above). Had he lived longer, he might have also hiked The Long Trail (below).
3. There is currently a monastery operating on one of Vermont mountains. The only Carthusian monastery in the U.S. (and one of just 25 worldwide) sits on the flanks of Mount Equinox, the highest peak in the Taconic Range, near Manchester. In the 1930s, inventor Dr. Joseph Davidson set out to buy much of the land on the mountain. He built himself a stunning home and in 1940 created the paved 5.2-mile toll road to the 3,848-foot summit. Dr. Davidson had, at one time, envisioned a ski resort atop the mountain but in the 1960s, he donated land to the Carthusian monks to build a monastery, set far from the road. The monastery is now the permanent home to monks who spend their days in silence and prayer, eat no meat and only bread and water on Fridays, and live secluded from the world. Flags representing the national origins of the monks fly at the entrance to Skyline Drive. In 2012, an old inn was torn down near the summit to create the St. Bruno Scenic Viewing Center. TRUE. 4. The Long Trail is the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States. In 1908, an assistant principal at Vermont Academy in Saxton’s River began taking students on long hikes in the southern Greens. Legend has it he became frustrated that there were so few hiking trails. At the time, there were about 40 trails that led to the mountain summits but none
vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 55
5. A highway was once proposed that would run along the spine of the Green Mountains. In 1934, President Franklin D. Roosevelt authorized a $50,000, tenmonth study to consider the feasibility of building a scenic highway along the spine of the Green Mountains. The Green Mountain Parkway would run 260 miles, the length of the state and be modeled after the Blue Ridge Parkway. Building it would provide work for the nearly 16,000 unemployed Vermonters during the Depression. But to make it a reality, the state would have had to pay $500,000 to secure land rights and create a national park. In December 1935, a special session of the Vermont legislature approved the project. On the following town meeting day, Vermonters were asked to vote on an effective date of April 1, 1936 or April 1, 1941. They voted to push the project off to 1941 by an 11,421 margin—42,318 to 30,897. In 1937 the legislature repealed the act and the Parkway was nixed for good. TRUE.
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One of the early shelters built along the Long Trail, the Bolton Cabin still stands today and can be reserved through the Green Mountain Club. The proposed Gren Mountain Parkway would have run right through Killington, below.
6. Vermont’s ski areas own most of the land they operate on. Vermont was one of the first states to lease public land to ski areas. In the 1950s and ‘60s Perry Merrill, then commissioner of what is now Vermont’s Department of Forests, Parks, and Recreation, saw such leases as means to support the maintenance of Vermont’s parks and encourage tourism. The state currently leases land to Jay Peak Resort, Burke Mountain Ski Area, Smugglers’ Notch Ski Area, Stowe Mountain Resort, Killington Ski Area, Okemo Mountain Resort, and Bromley Mountain Ski Area. Annual revenue is about $2.5 million and helps make up a third of the department’s operating budget. The leases prohibit the development of residential units on state land and there’s a stringent review process for any development. In addition, the Green Mountain National Forest issues permits that allow Sugarbush, Middlebury Snow Bowl, Bromley, Stratton, and Mount Snow to operate on federal land. The GMNF was also the first National Forest to sanction glading for backcountry skiing, which it did in Brandon Gap and Rochester. One important piece of the Green Mountains belongs to the University of Vermont: the 400-acre ridgeline on the summit of Mount Mansfield is one of three mountains in the state where the alpine tundra survived the Ice Age, and the university has long held the land for scientific studies. FALSE. n
Photo top courtesy Green Mountain Club; bottom Chandler Burgess//Killington Resort
that connected them. That school principal, James P. Taylor, gathered about two dozen people in Burlington in 1910 to found the Green Mountain Club and lay out a plan for a “long trail.” In October 1910, Craig Burt, the owner of the Stowe Lumber Company, and a lawyer named Clarence Cowles began scouting the first section, which would run from Mount Mansfield south to Nebraska Notch where Taylor Lodge was built. A Taylor Lodge lean-to still greets hikers there. The first Long Trail Guide was published in 1917. The guide recommended men wear “ordinary height shoes with hobnails, felt hat, ‘generous sized’ silk bandana, inch-wide leather belt with cup attached, wool underwear, wool shirt and stout wool trousers.” For women, bloomers and high-laced boots with “Hungarian nails,” were suggested. Volunteers began to build the trail in sections. By 1930, the 270 miles of trail and 44 sleeping shelters were completed. The route now connects many of the major ski areas in the state, from Jay Peak to Stratton. The trail went on to inspire Benton McKaye’s vision for the Appalachian Trail. TRUE.
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This picture-perfect classic Vermont 2-bedroom, 1-bath cabin sits in a quiet valley not far from the slopes and backs up to miles of trails that are great for hiking or backcountry skiing. Just 15 minutes to the Trapp Family Lodge, town and Stowe Mountain Resort.
On gorgeous Lake Dunmore, this freshly-renovated 2-bedroom, 2-bath cottage sleeps 6, is central to great skiing at Brandon Gap, Killington, Pico, Middlebury Snow Bowl and Rikert Nordic Center. Yearround, skate, XC ski or swim right out your front door.
This cozy retreat is just one mile from main base areas and within walking distance to over a dozen restaurants and bars. It has a wood-burning fireplace, washer/dryer, porch, t.v., and wifi. This 2-bedroom, 1-bath, sleeps 4 people and will take dogs.
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Vermont’s “Sweetest” Half Marathon is Back! After two years off because of the pandemic (2020 and 2021), central Vermont's sweetest half marathon is back on!
MARK YOUR CALENDARS FOR
Sunday, Oct. 2, 2022 Capped at 750 runner, so, don’t delay, register today!
MIDDLEBURYMAPLERUN.COM
THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR JUNE 20-23 | AJGA Killington Junior Golf Championship Come watch the game’s future stars as they tee it up at Green Mountain National Golf Club. killington.com 25 | The 200-on-100 Double Century, North Troy This is a single-day double-century that travels the length of Vermont, from the Canada to the Massachusetts state line, primarily following VT-100. 100-200.org 25 | Lake Dunmore Triathlon and Vermont Sun Triathlon, Salisbury Swim .9 miles, bike 28 miles and run 6.2 miles in the Lake Dunore Triathlon, a USAT State Championship race, or try the Vermont Sun Triathlon, with a 600 yard swim, a 14-mile bike leg and a 3.1-mile run. Vermontsuntriathlonseries.com 25 | Catamount Ultra, Trail Run, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe Run a 25K or 50K trail race on wide, hard-packed dirt trails at the Trapp Family Lodge Outdoor Center. The 50K course is two laps on the 25K course ,which passes rolling highland pastures and hardwood forest, complete with maple sugar tap lines in place and ready for the spring “run.” catamountultra.com 25-26| 7th Annual Vermont Renaissance Faire, Stowe Dress in Renaissance garb and sample Medieval-inspired artisans and craft vendors, beer, wine and cider makers. vtgatherings.com 26 | Central Vermont Cycling Tour, Montpelier An original gravel grinder, this ride takes you either 15, 30 or 60 miles on country roads. Look forward to great food, convenient rest stops, well-marked courses, maple creemees, and hula hoops. All to raise funds to build the Cross Vermont Trail. Crossvermont.org.
JULY 4 | Montpelier Mile, Montpelier Celebrate Independence by running a fast mile in the state’s capita. onionriver.com 4 | Clarence Del Mar 5K, South Hero This is the 39th running of this July 4 tradition. Don’t miss it! Gmaa.run 4 | Fourth of July Parade, Warren With floats, music and many surprises this classic Vermont affair is a must on your bucket list of things to do. Get there early! Warrenpajuly4th.com 8-9 | The Prouty, Hanover, N.H. Ride 20, 35, 50, 77 or 100 miles on roads in the Upper Valley, or wherever home may be. Or tackle a 52-mile gravel ride. Golf 18 holes, run, walk 3k to 10k, or even row 5-15 miles. The Prouty is in person or virtual this year, but there are still many ways to participate. Limited in-person option. dartmouth-hitchcock.org 10 | Mad Marathon, Waitsfield A Boston Marathon qualifier, this has been dubbed one of the most beautiful marathons in the U.S. Run it as a relay of up to 5 people or as a half marathon. madmarathon.com 16 | Trout Day at Sugarbush, Warren A day devoted to fly fishing with fly-tying demonstrations, casting clinics, and a chance to participate in a Trout Unlimited raffle. Learn the basics of fly fishing, talk with a local guide for tips on fly selection and presentation. sugarbush.com
17 | Vermont Sun Triathlon & Branbury Classic Triathlons, Salisbury Paddle 1.5 miles, bike 14 miles, and run 3.1 miles in the Branbury Classic or do the Vermont Sun Triathlon (600 yard swim, 14-mile bike, 3.1 mile run). A classic, pristine course starts and finishes at Branbury State Park. Participants paddle, bike and run around beautiful Lake Dunmore. Vermont Sun Triathlon repeats on August 14. vermontsuntriathlonseries.com 15-16 | Killington Wine Festival, Killington This year combines some of favorite Wine Fest traditions like a VIP tasting at The Peak, a Pico tasting event on Saturday and our month-long wine trail where local restaurants shine while you sip! Killington.com 15-17 | Vermont 100 Endurance Running Race, West Windsor A 100-mile or 100-kilometer race on foot or by horseback. Featuring unrelenting rollers that add up to 17,000 feet of climbing, the VT100 trail race winds its way over country roads, through forested trails, with breathtaking views of the southern Green Mountains. Vermont100.com 16 | Missisquoi Paddle-Pedal, Richford This family-friendly event combines 6.5 miles of paddling down a designated Wild & Scenic section of the Missisquoi River and 5 miles of cycling on the adjacent Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail. Northernforestcanoetrail.org 16 | 44th Annual Goshen Gallop, Goshen Start is at 4 pm for a 10.2 or 5.1 kilometer race on this exceptional backcountry course on the trails of the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area. Starts and finishes at the Blueberry Hill Outdoor Center and benefits the center. From a natural obstacle course to a stunning surprise view from the south end of Hogback Mountain, the Gallop’s elevation profile and rugged terrain have earned the race the nickname “the toughest 10k in New England.” goshengallop.com 16 | Raid Lamoille, Craftsbury A challenging 25 -or 55-mile gravel ride that includes a significant amount of packed-gravel riding and some major climbing segments. This is not a race and there is a women’s no-drop ride option too. grvl.net/raid-lamoille.com 16-17 | Slate Valley Epic, Poultney A 40+ mile, 5,000+ vertical mountain bike race on Vermont’s newest and best single-track trails in the Slate Valley of southwestern Vermont. slatevalleytrails.org 24 | Eastern States Maxxis Cup, Sugarbush Resort, Warren Join in or watch the top riders in the East compete in downhill, enduro and a KASK showdown on the trails at Sugarbush Resort. Sugarbush.com 29-31 | Flow State Mountain Bike Festival, Mt. Ascutney, Brownsville The trails at Ascutney Outdoors play host to Flow State, the Vermont Mountain Bike Festival, a three-day celebration of all things mountain biking put on by Mountain Flyer. Flowstatemtbfestival.com. 29-31 | Rooted Vermont, Richmond Join Ted and Laura King for a weekend long celebration of gravel roads, community and all things VT. Race the long course (82 miles) and 8,000 feet of climbing or go your own pace and do the 48-mile short course. An epic afterparty featuring local foods and brews follows. rootedvermont.com 30-31 | Red Bull Dual Slalom, Killlington Compete head to head on a wild course designed for the Red Bull Raw. The Next Gen comp is on Sunday. Killington.com 30 | Moosalamoo Ultra, Goshen Run 14 miles or tackle the ultra, 36 miles of mostly singletrack in the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area. The race is based out of the Blueberry Hill Outdoor Center and will have free camping onsight on Friday and Saturday night (or stay at the Blueberry Hill Inn). Ironwoodadventureworks.com
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THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR AUGUST 6 | VSECU Point to Point, Montpelier Enjoy a beautiful ride or run on Vermont’s scenic roads. Choose from a variety of distances from 25 miles to a century. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Register for a half-marathon, 5K, or one-mile run. It’s to benefit the Vermont Foodbank’s efforts to end hunger. thepointtopoint.org 6-7 | Eastern States Maxxis Cup, Killington Join in or watch the top riders in the East compete in downhill, enduro and a KASK showdown on the trails at Sugarbush Resort. Sugarbush.com 7 | Smuggs Summer Disc Golf Classic, Jeffersonville This disc golf tournament is a single day event: one round in the morning, one round in the afternoon. A doubles charity event with a barbecue and prizes. Benefits the Smugglers’ Notch Ski and Snowboard Club. smuggs.com 7 | Slab City Trail Challenge, Randolph The event incorporates a majority of the single track that Randolph has to offer. Your goal is to ride to the top of the three major peaks either individually or as a team relay. People can choose their route based on riding ability. This event starts and ends at The Gear House with local food beverage and music after..bikereg.com/slab-city-trail-tour
24-28 | Middlebury New Filmmakers Festival, Middlebury Come see the best new films, selected from more than 500 entries from 55 countries, all from emerging filmmakers. The week includes talks by noted filmmakers, journalists, and actors, including local star, Maggie Gyllenhall. mnff.org 27 | Vermont Overland Grand Prix, Ascutney, West Windsor A 50-mile dirt road bicycle race featuring 6,000 feet of climbing, seven sectors of “Vermont pavé” (unmaintained ancient public roads), two well-fortified sag stops, a magnificently scenic route and an awesome party afterwards. vermontoverland.com 27-Sep. 4 | The Champlain Valley Fair The Champlain Valley Fair caps the summer season in Vermont. Vendors, midway rides, games, entertainment, food, agricultural exhibits, nationally recognized performers, and more. champlainvalleyfair.org 28 | Race To The Top Of Vermont, Stowe A 4.3- mile, 2564 vertical ft hill climb up the tallest mountain in Vermont - Mt. Mansfield, to benefit the Catamount Trail Association. The course climbs up the historic Toll Road, is 4.3 miles in length, and climbs 2564 ft. rttovt.com
SEPTEMBER
7-14 | 8th Annual Vermont Open Farm Week Visit a few of the more than 44 farms across the state that open their doors and offer meals, tastings, crafts and tours of their operations, plus live music. digInvt.org
2-5 | 21st Green Mountain Stage Race, Burlington The GMSR is back with 4 days of racing with the Burlington Crit. Ten fields including ones for women a P/1/2/3 and a 3/4/5. For men: a P/1, Cat 2, Cat 3, Cat 4/5 (open and masters), 40+, 50+ and Junior fields. Gmsr.info
13-14 | Enduro World Series, Burke Some of the top mountain bike racers in the world will come to Burke Mountain Resort, one of only two U.S. stops this year on round 6 of the Enduro World Series.. Taking place over two days, the race will feature terrain the area is famous for - rooty, rocky and above all, highly technical. skiburke.com
2 | Stratton Foundation Annual Charity Golf Outing, Stratton Come out for a golf tournament where the goal is to score high for the local community. The Stratton Foundation’s annual charity golf outing is an event to inspire fun among the participants and inspire hope among children in southern Vermont. stratton.com
14 | Lake Dunmore Triathlon and Vermont Sun Triathlon, Salisbury Swim .9 miles, bike 28 miles and run 6.2 miles in the Lake Dunore Triathlon, or try the Vermont Sun Triathlon, with a 600 yard swim, a 14-mile bike leg and a 3.1-mile run. Vermontsuntriathlonseries.com
3 | 26th Annual Mount Snow Brewers Festival, Mount Snow Enjoy more than 20 breweries pouring a variety of beers and ciders, delicious food options, and quality live music throughout the event. mountsnow.com
14 | The Bitter Pill, Craftsbury A summer adventure race for teams of two or three with hiking, biking, and time on the water – as well as requiring you to continually navigate. If you have never done an adventure race before, this is a great way to get started. gmara.org 13 | The 100 on 100 Running Relay, Stowe to Ludlow The event starts early in the morning on August 13th at the Trapp Family Lodge and ends in Ludlow with most participants finishing between 5:30 PM and 11:00 PM. The race historically takes place on Route 100. 100on100relay.com 14 | Mozo Double Up, Stowe Gain 5,000 feet over 11 miles on Vermont’s most technical terrain as you race across the state’s highest peak, running up the Haselton trail. Ironwoodadventureworks.com
3-4 | Jay Peak Trail Running Festival, Jay Peak Run anywhere from 5 kilometers to a 53 kilometers on the Jay Peak trails at this weekend long festival with races for kids, 11 milers and 22 milers too. jaypeak.com 4 | Blues, Brews and BBQs, Stratton Enjoy live Blues music while sampling local Vermont beers, ales, lagers and ciders. Stratton’s team of talented chefs will be firing up the grills and preparing the best offerings in BBQ recipes for all to enjoy throughout the day. stratton.com 10 | Kelly Brush Ride, Middlebury The 16th annual edition of this fundraising ride takes riders through various courses from 25 miles to 100 miles in scenic Addison County. Can’t make it to Vermont for the Kelly Brush Ride? Join from anywhere. kellybrushfoundation.org
10-11 | Vista Beast Challenge – 6th Annual Disc Golf Tournament, Bolton Valley Compete on a challenging par 60 18-hole course that tests players’ ability to throw a 20 | Craftsbury Beer Run, Craftsbury variety of shots. Stay tuned for more details, but practice up. boltonvalley.com A point-to-point dirt road half marathon from Craftsbury Outdoor Center to Highland Lodge. Post-race picnic will be catered by Hardwick’s Caja Madera Food 10-11 | Spartan Ultra 50K, Beast 21K Race, Killington Truck at Highland Lodge.craftsburybeerrun.com Spartan Ultra is a 50 km, 60 obstacle race built to break your limits over the world’s most difficult terrain , Also, a Beast 21K, a sprint and a kid’s race. killington.com 20 | 49th Annual Mt. Washington Auto Road Bicycle Hillclimb, Albany, NH This 7.6 mile race to the summit of the highest peak in the northeast is a fundraiser 15-18 | Fox US Open of Mountain Biking, Killington for the Tin Mountain Conservation Center. The race is known as the toughest hill For the first time since 2018, the Fox US Open returns! Spectating is free, and areas climb in the world with an average grade of 12%. mwarbh.org of the bike park are open to the public during the event. killington.com
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17 | 13th Annual Oktoberfest, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe Join an Austrian themed food and beer pairing at t the von Trapp Brewing Bierhall with the Inseldudler band. Trappfamily.com 17 | Siptemberfest, Mad River Glen, Waitsfield Vermont’s “Best Little Beer Fest” offers an intimate craft beer tasting experience with short lines, lots of great local beer, good people and plenty of opportunity to chat with local brewers. siptemberfest.com
9 | North Face Race to the Summit, Stratton Run a 2.18 mile race climbing 2,003 vertical feet up southern Vermont’s highest peak for pride, prize money, awards and great views. stratton.com 16 | Trapp Mountain Marathon, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe This half or full marathon features steep climbs and descents and a newly updated climb to the highest point on the Trapp Lodge trails. The 13.1 mile loop course is approximately 2/3 double track wide trails and dirt roads, and 1/3 serpentine, rugged single track. trappmountainmarathon.com
18 | Tour de Farms Gravel Ride, Vergennes This gravel ride and farm tour will feature several distances—a 29.6-mile route and more relaxed, family-friendly 10-mile or 12.2 distances. You’ll pass through the beautiful pastoral landscape of the Champlain Valley and visit three to seven farms depending on your distance. Each farm stop will host additional food and beverage producers. Riders sample everything from maple iced coffee and farm-fresh salads to maple-glazed ham and Vermont’s famous cheeses! acornvt.org/tourdefarms
20-23 | 29029- Everesting, Stratton Run, walk or crawl up Stratton Mountain. Take the gondola down. Repeat 17 times until you climb 29,029 feet, the height of Everest. 29029everesting.com
18 | Trapp Cabin Trail Races, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe The 5K follows Lodge Spur to Luce Hill Loop, following the single track trail back to the finish. Walkers welcome. The 10K continues on to Tap Line, follows Chris’s Run to the cabin and returns on Growler and Tap Line to the finish. The half-marathon is by far Stowe’s most popular race and attracts racers from all over New England. The course does a double-loop of the 10.5K. greenmtnadaptive.org
CONCERTS & MUSIC FESTIVALS
18 | TAM Trek, Middlebury The 19-mile Trail Around Middlebury attracts serious trail runners from, around the state, and outside of Vermont. Also offered is a challenging 10K course for runners looking for a shorter and equally scenic race. The 2-mile family fun run attracts families and run/walkers from around Addison County. maltvt.org/tam-trek 22-25 | Obstacle Course Racing World Championships, Stratton Drawing more than 5,000 athletes from 70 nations, the OCR World Championships features both professional and amateur age-group competitions. Dive different races accommodate all types of athletes. The flagship 3K and 15K distance races are only open to qualified age-group and professional athletes. stratton.com 26 | 28th Vermont 50 Ultra Run & MTB, Mount Ascutney, Brownsville This 50-mile trail race lets mountain bikers and ultra runners enjoy a challenging and scenic course that is like no other. Net proceeds go to Vermont Adaptive Ski and Sports. vermont50.com
OCTOBER 2 | Middlebury Maple Run: The Sweetest Half Marathon, Middlebury A USATF-certified half marathon, 2-person relay, and a 3-mile fun run on scenic routes with views of the Green Mountains and Adirondacks. A mix of trail (10%) paved (45%) and dirt roads (45%) for the half marathon, all paved for 3-mile fun run. Post-race pancake breakfast with Vermont maple syrup. middleburymaplerun.com 9 | Mount Snow Oktoberfest, Mount Snow, Wilmington The beer, schnitzel and Oom-pah music that you love. Enjoy a selection of beers from German and domestic breweries and authentic German fare. mountsnow.com 8-10 | Harvest Fest Weekend, Stratton Enjoy live music, scenic lift rides, peak fall foliage, and delicious food options along with the season finale of mountain biking, scenic lift rides and golf. stratton.com 9 | Fresh Hops Festival, Sugarbush Vermont’s second annual Fresh Hops Festival challenges brewers to create different beers using the same hops. Sugarbush.com
16-17 | Vermont State Disc Golf Championships, Smuggler’s Notch, Jeffersonville Catch the top players in the state at this PDGA C-Tier event in northern Vermont, hosted by Disc Golf Vermont. Discgolfvermont.com
Live Music on the Lawn, Bolton Valley Head to Bolton for Friday nights Live Music on the Lawn featuring a variety of bands playing folk to funk. boltonvalley.com Cooler in the Mountains Concert Series, Killington A free family-friendly music series held Saturdays, July 2-Sept. 3 from 3:30-6 p.m. at the Snowshed base featuring top national and regional acts. killington.com Music in the Mountains Concert Series, Pico For 40 years, internationally renowned musicians have performed this chamber music series with the Green Mountains as a backdrop. July 2, 9., 16, 23 killington.com Jay Peak Music Series, Jay There’s music in them thar hills. Head to the town of Jay Aug. 13 for the August West Festival; then to the Stateside Amphiteater Aug. 28 for the Old Crow Medicine Show and Moe on Sept. 2. jaypeak.com Dead of Summer Music Festival, Magic Mountain, Londonderry On July 9, five bands pay tribute to the Grateful Dead at Magic. magicmtn.com Spruce Peak Summer Concert Series, Stowe Join Spruce Peak on the Village Green all summer long for evenings of amazing music, great food and outdoor fun. Wilderado, July 16; The High Kings, July 24; Deer Tick with Lightning Bug, July 18; Ruston Kelly with Kat Wright, Aug. 4; Jamestown Revival with Steven Kellogg, Aug. 18; Stowe Tango Night, Aug. 20; The Long Bellow with Pete Kilpatrick, Sept. 1. gostowe.com Stratton Music Series ,Stratton Stratton brings the bands: Dark Star Orchestra, July 2; Mountain Friends & Freedom, July 3; Gin Blossoms, Sept. 3. Erin Harpe and the Delta Swingers, Sept. 4,; Dr. K’s Motown Revue, Oct. 8; Almost Queen Elton John Tribute, Oct. 9. stratton.com Sugarbush Music Series, Warren Head to Hogan’s Pub for their Friday night music series. Then, on August 13 Allyn’s Lodge is the site of a free outdoor concert featuring The Legends. Hike or use your Ikon pass. sugarbush.com ANSWERS TO THE BREW QUIZ (p.64) A. Catamount Brewery, Windsor; B. Drop In, Middlebury; C. Von Trapp Brewing, Stowe; D. Lawson’s Finest, Waitsfield E. Beer Naked, Hogback Mtn. Wilmington. F. 14th Star, St. Albans G. The Alchemist, Stowe, H. Snow Republic, West Dover
vtskiandride.com Summer 2022 61
IKE SHOPS
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BATTENKILL BICYCLES
99 Bonnet St., Manchester Ctr, VT 802-362-2734 | battenkillbicycles. com Manchester, Vermont's bicycle shop since 1972, Battenkill Bicycles is a Trek and Specialized Bicycle dealer offering advice and sales to meet all your cycling needs. The service department offers tune-ups and repairs for all brands of bikes. Come to the shop to rent a bike or get information about local group rides or advice on where to ride your bike in the Northshire. Battenkill Bicycles is the number one e-bike seller in Southern Vermont and is an authorized Bosch e-bike systems service center.
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BERKSHIRE OUTFITTERS
RR 8, 169 Grove St., Adams, MA 413-743-5900 | berkout@bcn.net We are a full-service bike shop at the base of the Mt. Greylock State Reservation. We also border a beautiful 12-mile paved rail trail. We carry Jamis, Rocky Mountain and G.T. We offer sales, repairs and hybrid bike rentals for the rail trail.
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BOOTLEGGER BIKES
60 Main Street Jeffersonnville, VT 802-644-8370 & at 82 Main St., St. Albans 802.782.8747 bootleggerbikes.com A full-service shop near Smugglers' Notch and a new shop in St. Albans. We offer new, used and custom bikes as well as custom-built wheel builds for mountain, road, gravel, fat bikes, bikepacking and touring. Rentals offered at our Cambridge Junction shop on ththe Lamoille Valley Rail Trail. Bikes are a passion here.
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BRADLEY’S PRO SHOP SKI & SPORT
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2012 Depot St. Manchester Center, VT 05255 | 802-367-3118 bradleysproski.com
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CHUCK’S BIKES
45 Bridge St. Morrisville, VT 802-888-7642 | chucksbikes802. com Putting smiles on people's faces for over 35 years. Bikes by Jamis, Transition, Norco, KHS, Davinci, Raleigh, Marin and Diamondback. Hours: Mon - Wed and Fri 10-5, Sat and Thurs 10-2. Be well by being smart.
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EARL’S CYCLERY & FITNESS
2069 Williston Rd., South Burlington, VT 802-864-9197 | earlsbikes.com Earl’s Cyclery has been serving Vermont's cycling and fitness needs for more than 65 years. With over 12,000 square feet at the new location, Earl’s has the largest selection of bikes from Trek, Giant, Scott, Bianchi, Electra, Haro, and more. The service center at Earl’s has professionally trained technicians who are certified to work on all makes and models of bicycles, not just the ones we sell. Whether you need a flat tire fix or a suspension rebuild, the service staff is ready to help. Estimates are always free! Stop by our new location at 2069 Williston Rd, South Burlington, or call us.
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Bradley’s Pro Shop Ski & Bike is the premier bike shop in Southern Vermont! We are located in Manchester Center. Always known as your go-to ski shop we are now your go-to bike shop. We have one of the best bike mechanics in Vermont on staff, Dan Rhodes. Many of you know of his reputation as a master bike mechanic. Dan runs all aspects of our bicycle operations. We carry the full lineup of Cannondale and GT bikes—mountain bikes, gravel, e-bikes, BMX and hybrids. We are a full-service operation with sales, service, accessories and rentals including e-bikes. We always offer a great bike tune-up price so be sure to bring your ride in. As always: THINK DIRT!
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EAST BURKE SPORTS
439 Route 114 East Burke VT 802-626-3215 eastburkesports.com We are the original home to Kingdom Trails. Located in the heart of town, we pride ourselves in expert knowledge while providing friendly customer service. A fullservice shop awaits you and your repair needs. We have 100 rental bikes with an enormous selection of clothing, parts, and accessories. Hours: 9 - 6 every day.
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EQUIPE SPORT
8749 VT RT 30, Rawsonville, VT 802-297-2846 | equipesport.com Serving the Stratton, Rawsonville and West Dover areas. Three shops wtih sales, service and rentals. Sales of hybrid, mountain, kids and e-bikes. Service for all bikes. Rental for mountain bikes and hybrids. Hours: 9 - 6 every day.
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FROG HOLLOW
74 Main St., Middlebury, VT 802-388-6666 | froghollow bikes.com Take advantage of the most advanced and courteous service in our region, with quick turn-around time in our service shop downstairs. Upstairs in the sales room, we offer the best in new and used road, mountain, lifestyle, and children’s bikes and new gear. We carry brands that offer superior products that balance innovation and performance with reliability and value. Hours: Mon. - Sat. 9:30 - 5:30, Sun. 11 – 4.
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THE GEAR HOUSE
16 Pleasant St., Randolph 802-565-8139 gearhouse.com Located in the center of Vermont, we offer Rocky Mountain, Bianchi, Yamaha e-bikes, a rotating inventory of consigned bikes and gear, and a full service repair shop. Randolph has newly revived mtb trails that combine classic old-school singletrack with machine built zones. Start the 12/12a loop from the shop for 38 miles of well maintained road miles, or map out a day ride entirely on the gravel. The shop is also home to RASTA's outdoor trail hub which features topographical and printed maps. Stop by the shop and plan your next adventure!
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GREEN MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN GREEN BIKES BIKES
105 N. Main St. Rochester VT 800-767-7882 | greenmountainbikes.com Located in the heart of the Green Mountains, we are surrounded by terrain that calls mountain and road bikers alike. Whether you ride twisting trails or back
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to back gaps, we service, sell, and rent all styles of bicycles, featuring Kona, Jamis, Juliana, Raleigh, Santa Cruz, Transition, and Hinderyckx bikes - hand crafted by our own Rochester boy Zak Hinderyckx. So STOP READING and RIDE YOUR BIKE! Hours: 7 days a week, 10 – 6.
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HANOVER ADVENTURE TOURS
713 US 5 N., Norwich, VT | 802-359-2921 hanoveradventuretours.com
More than a full-service bike store, we are a full-service adventure center. With an expertise in electric bicycles, we live and breathe outdoor exploration through our offering of e-bike rentals, sales, and tours including doorstep delivery and a fullservice shop (all bikes welcome). Over 100 electric bicycle rentals, demos, and tours available for individuals and large groups, short and long-term.
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HIGH PEAKS CYCLERY
2733 Main St., Lake Placid, NY 518-523-3764 | highpeaks cyclery.com
The Adirondacks' source for bicycling and outdoor gear and adventures since 1983. Sales, service, rentals, cemos, tours, base camp lodging and dirt camps. Bikes by Scott, Yeti, Giant, Liv, Salsa and BMC. Gravel, road, mountain, fat and e-Bikes. Monday Sunday: 9AM - 5PM
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HITCHHIKER
394 Mountain Road Ste. 6, Stowe, VT | 802-585-3344 hitchhikerbikes.com
Hitchhiker Bike Shop is Stowe's newest shop. We carry bikes from Rocky Mountain, Cervelo, Otso Cycles, Chromag, Open Cycle, and Gazelle E-bikes. If you are looking for a tuneup we offer service for just about every type of bike and budget. Service appointments are encouraged, but not necessary. You'll also find great clothing, parts, and accessories in our shop that is pedaling distance from the Cady Hill trails.
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MOUNTAINOPS
4081 Mountain Road, Stowe, VT 802-253-4531 mountainopsvt. com
We offer bike sales along with fast, friendly service. Dealers of Niner, Scott, Devinci and Jamis, we carry a large assortment of mountain and gravel bikes including a 60 bike Demo Fleet. Our techs have years of experience and our local trail knowledge is second to none. Our converted 1893 barn-turned-bike-shop houses a huge selection of bike and lifestyle clothing along with parts and accessories. Looking for a more mellow ride? Rent one of our cruisers for a trip down the legendary Stowe Rec Path right from our parking lot!
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OLD SPOKES HOME
331 North Winooski Ave., Burlington, VT 802-863-4475 | oldspokeshome.com
Vermont’s best selection of professionally refurbished used bikes and new bikes for touring, bike packing, commuting, fat biking, and simply getting around town. Named one of the country’s best bike shops for it’s “plain-talk advice and no-nonsense service.” A non-profit as of January 2015, Old Spokes Home uses 100% of its revenue to run programs creating access to bikes in the community. And don’t miss their famous antique bicycle museum! Hours: Mon. – Sat. 10 - 6, Sun. 12 - 5.
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OMER & BOB’S
20 Hanover St. Lebanon, NH603448-3522 | omerandbobs.com The Upper Valley's bike shop since 1964. Offering mountain bikes, gravel and road bikes, hybrid bikes, e-bikes, and kids bikes from Specialized, Trek, and Electra. Featuring a full service department, bike fitting, mountain and e-bike demos, and a kids trade-in, trade-up program. Hours: Mon.Friday, 9am-5:30pm, Sat., 9am-5pm
ONION RIVER OUTDOORS
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20 Langdon St. Montpelier, VT 802-225-6736 | onionriver.com ORO is Central Vermont's premier bike, car rack, and outdoor gear shop. Friendly and knowledgeable sales and service. We carry Specialized, Niner, Rocky Mountain, Salsa, Surly, and Yuba, and a large variety of clothing and accessories, including Giro, Smith, Club Ride, Patagonia, and more.
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OUTDOOR GEAR EXCHANGE
37 Church St., Burlington, VT 888-547-4327 |gearx.com OGE offers riders a premier bike shop with a knowledgeable, friendly, and honest staff. We have commuters and gravel grinders from Marin and KHS, mountain bikes from Pivot, Transition, Rocky Mountain and Yeti and a wide consignment selection as well as a demo fleet so you can try it before you buy it. Our service department is capable of everything from tuning your vintage road bike to servicing your new mountain bike and offers full Fox shock service. Come see us on Church Street!
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POWERPLAY SPORTS
35 Portland St. Morrisville, VT 802-888-6557 powerplaysports.com North Central Vermont's Trek and Giant Dealer nestled in the heart of bike country. Selling new and used bikes for every budget and every type of rider from beginner to expert. We service all manner of bike and sell tons of accessories and apparel. Bike rentals for the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail just 200 yards down the road.
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RANCH CAMP
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TYGART
57 Pond St. STE 1, Ludlow, VT (802) 228-5440 Info@tygartmountainsports.com, Tygartmountainsports.com
We are a full service bicycle sales and service center. We carry a wide selection of Scott and Kona bikes and a variety of accessories from Scott, Giro, Louis Garneau, Blackburn, Park Tools and others. We offer service and repairs on all makes and models including in-house suspension service, wheel building, and full bike build-outs.
311 Mountain Road, Stowe, VT 802-253-2753 | ranchcampvt.com
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Ranch Camp is Stowe’s mountain bike base lodge and your hub for bikes, gear, and culture! Ranch Camp offers a full-service mountain bike shop, tap room, and fresh-casual eatery, featuring sales and demo bike from Specialized, Ibis, Yeti, Evil, Revel, and Fatback. Looking for top of the line mountain bikes and components? Got ‘em. How about local brews from new England’s finest purveyors of craft libations? You bet. And if you need a thoughtfully crafted grab-and-go meal for your ride, or a place to sit down and refuel afterwards, Ranch Camp has you covered. Best of all, Ranch Camp is situation trailside with its very own public access entrance into Stowe’s iconic Cady Hill trail network.
Established in 1978, we are a family-owned, passion-driven sporting goods store serving customers for four seasons of adventure. Strongly focused on bike and ski, we have highly skilled knowledgeable technicians and sales staff to assist in all needs of purchase, rental and service. With two locations, one nestled trailside on the worldrenowned Kingdom Trails, and the other in downtown Lyndonville, we’re here to make your adventures happen!
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SKIRACK
85 Main St. Burlington 802-658-3313 | skirack.com Locally owned and operated since 1969, Skirack provides the best selection of outdoor gear for running, downhill & cross country skiing and snowboarding. We specialize in all things bike and e-bike: service, rentals, car racks, expert fitting and knowledge. Head to Skirack.com for updated hours and more information.
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STARK MOUNTAIN
9 RTE 17, unit b Waitsfield, VT 802-496-4800 Find us on Facebook
Located at the lowest spot in the Mad River Valley so you can coast in when you break your bike on a ride! 21 years of advise,directions and fixing anything that pedals. Thinking about a Yeti? Come ride one of ours,we have been selling Yeti since 2006! Hours: Tues-Fri 9-6*, Sat 9-4, and Sunday 10-2. *Close at 5 on Thursdays for the Shop Ride.
VILLAGE SPORT SHOP
511 Broad St. Lyndonville, VT 802-626-8448| villagesportshop.com
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WATERBURY SPORTS
46 South Main Street, Waterbury, VT
802-882-8595 | waterburysportsvt.com A full service bike shop selling Trek and Giant bikes in one of Vermont's most convenient locations. Nestled in downtown Waterbury a short distance from the Perry Hill MTB trails, WBS services all bikes and can handle any repair you might have. We also have a fleet of demo bikes and and an excellent selection of parts and accessories. Open 7 days a week!
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WEST HILL SHOP
49 Brickyard Lane, Putney, VT 802-387-5718 westhillshop.com
Right off I-91 exit northbound! We're pleased to welcome Specialized as the cornerstone of our broad range of trail, gravel, road and e-bikes. Bikes from Banshee, Cannondale, Devinci, Evil, Transition, Salsa, and Mondraker too. Plus, a curated selection of garments from Patagonia, POC and Specialized. Our service department is widely recognized as one of the best in the region, and our goal is to keep turn-around time to a week or less, and to offer Friday and Saturday walk-in service starting in June. We did it last year, and we've invested in more help. Ask for David to discuss custom wheel builds and suspension service and tuning. Most important, hit us to go for a ride!
Chairlift Chat
TEST YOUR VERMONT MICROBREW IQ Vermont has more than 40 microbreweries, many of them located in ski towns. See how well you know them. Answers on page 61.
A. In 1984, it was the first craft brewery in Vermont and helped launch the microbrew revolution. Now, it’s back.
E. This brewery is located at the top of a mountain that was once home to a ski area. You can also backcountry ski to and from it.
B. The founder of this brewery also developed the Craft Brewers Apprenticeship Program and other respected brewing diplomas and it hosts one of the top brewing schools in the country. This brewery also makes seasonal beers like Christmas Cake or Key Lime Pie and gives brews clever names such as Dude, Are You Ok? and Czech Your Ego.
F. Two soldiers wrote the business plan for this brewery while they were stationed on the battlegrounds of Afghanistan. A portion of the brewery’s proceeds is given each year to charitable organizations such as Purple Hearts, Make-a-Wish and Vermont Adaptive.
C. You can ski to this brewery, which also has a classic lodge on the property, 100 kilometers of Nordic trails, a sugaring operation and raises cattle and sheep.
G. A husband/wife team opened this brewery first as a brew pub. It’s since won some of the top accolades in the country for its beer and is a certified B Corporation dedicated to sustainability, inclusivity and community.
D. The founder of this award-winning brewery is a naturalist and skier who once led full-moon nature tours at this nearby ski area. He met his now-wife and business partner on one of those tours.
H. When a former Marine discovered the ski town where he spent weekends didn’t have its own brewery, he decided to do something about it and launched this brewery and pub.
64 Summer 2022 vtskiandride.com
sugarbush.com
Be here
Sugarbush’s lift-served mountain biking with après beers at Rumble’s Bistro & Bar isn’t the only summer hot spot at Sugarbush. From hitting the links at Sugarbush Resort Golf Club to disc golf and kids summer camps, the Mad River Valley boasts tons of summer fun. Join us for stay and play packages, weekly events, ice cream cones and more!
SUMMER EVENT HIGHLIGHTS ESC DOWNHILL MTB RACE, JUL 23 – 24 MUSIC ON THE MOUNTAIN, AUG 13 FRIDAY FILMS, AUG 19 & SEP 2 FRESH HOPS FESTIVAL, OCT 9 THURSDAY NIGHTS: SUGARBUSH DISC GOLF LEAGUE NIGHT LIVE MUSIC, CORNHOLE, PIZZA & BEER THURSDAYS AT THE GOLF COURSE: $50 GREENS FEES, 50% OFF BURGERS SELECT SATURDAYS: LIVE MUSIC, HOGAN’S PUB For more information on events, dining and lodging packages visit sugarbush.com.
802.552.4007
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