Winter in the Adirondack Park is about celebrating our communities and enjoying the natural beauty while embracing what Mother Nature gives us. Go out and explore all the wonders of the New York’s 6-million-acre park — naturemade or man-made — and enjoy yourselves in this magical place.
Since the early 1900s, our communities have hosted international sporting events — from speedskating on frozen lakes to two Olympic Winter Games, Winter World University Games in 1972 and 2023, the only Winter Goodwill Games in 2000 and countless World Cup events.
Yet, for the average person, this winter playground offers a lot more.
Visitors have a variety of activities to fill their weekend or weeklong trip: downhill or cross-country skiing, snowboarding, skating, ice climbing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, tobogganing, ice fishing, sleigh riding, dog sledding, etc.
Residents make outdoor fun part of their everyday lives. They take advantage of fresh snow and take a day off from work to ski or snowboard. They spend weekends ice fishing in their shacks, or they visit a cross-country ski trail as part of their morning ritual.
This is where the world comes to play.
Skating on the Olympic Speedskating Oval in Lake Placid (Provided photo — LakePlacid.com/ROOST)
Playing in the High Peaks
Winter tourists started visiting Lake Placid more than a century ago, beginning with the Lake Placid Club in 1904. Since then, this resort has grown into an international mecca for sporting enthusiasts and world-class competitors.
Lake Placid hosted the 1932 and 1980 Olympic Winter Games, and the state Olympic Regional Development Authority (https:// lakeplacidolympicsites.com) operates those venues, including the
Olympic Sports Complex, Olympic Jumping Complex, Olympic Speedskating Oval, Olympic Center rinks and Whiteface Mountain Ski Center.
The 400-meter oval is where Eric Heiden won five gold medals in 1980 and local legend Jack Shea won two gold medals in 1932. The Olympic Center was home to the fabled “Miracle on Ice”
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game in which the U.S. hockey team beat the Soviet Union in 1980 before winning the gold-medal game against Finland.
At the Lake Placid Olympic Museum (www.lpom.org), visitors can learn about the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics on the first floor of the Miracle Plaza building, which connects the 1932 and 1980 arenas.
The Olympic Sports Complex at Mount Van Hoevenberg is home of the biathlon stadium, cross-country skiing trails and combined sliding track for bobsled, luge and skeleton. There is also a start training facility for bobsled and skeleton at the Mountain Pass Lodge.
Lake Placid also keeps its Olympic heritage alive with offices for two national governing bodies — USA Luge and USA Bobsled and Skeleton — and as a training ground for U.S. Biathlon, Nordic Combined USA and USA Ski Jumping.
Lake Placid’s 2024 Holiday Village Stroll is set for Dec. 13-15. It will feature a skating party, scavenger hunt, Jingle Bell Run/ Walk, tree-lighting ceremony, Santa’s fire truck parade to Mid’s Park and more. Learn more at www.holidayvillagestroll.com.
The Mountaineer in Keene Valley has scheduled its 2025Adirondack International Mountain Festival for Feb. 7-9. For more information, contact the Mountaineer at 518-576-2281 or online at www.mountaineer.com.
For Lake Placid information, call 518-523-2445, stop by the Lake Placid Visitor Center at 2608 Main St. or go online to www. lakeplacid.com.
For Wilmington information, call the Whiteface Mountain Region Visitors Bureau, stop by the office on state Route 86 in Wilmington or go online to www.whitefaceregion.com.
Dogsledding
Downhill skiing and snowboarding
Whether you’re looking for downhill trails for skiing or snowboarding, the Adirondack Park has a variety of small and large ski centers offering trails for the entire family — all the way from beginner to expert.
Below are some of the alpine ski and snowboard resorts in the region.
¯ Dynamite Hill Recreation Area. Dynamite Hill Road, Chestertown. 518-494-2722.
¯ Gore Mountain Ski Resort. 793 Peaceful Valley Road, North Creek. 518-251-2411. Snow report: 518-251-5026. https://goremountain.com.
¯ Indian Lake Ski Hill. State Route 30, Indian Lake. Town office: 518-648-5611.
skiing in the Adirondack Park (Provided photo — LakePlacid.com/ROOST)
Downhill
Lake Placid 9’er hiking challenge
There are four patches for the Lake Placid 9’er hiking challenge: Summer, Winter, Ultra Summer and Ultra Winter. Ultra hikers must complete all nine mountains in 24 hours.
The Lake Placid 9’er winter hikes are completed between Dec. 21 and March 20 (starting after Dec. 21, 2018). All summer hikes must have been completed after July 1, 2018.
Once completed, download the registration form at https://lakeplacid9er.com and mail it with a $10.00 registration fee to: Lake Placid 9’er, P.O. Box 1310, Lake Placid, NY 12946. Make checks out to “Lake Placid 9’er.” Each finisher will be sent an official Lake Placid 9’er patch, sticker and registration number. Allow two to three weeks for processing.
Download a free Lake Placid 9’er map from MR Maps at https:// lakeplacid9er.com.
Cobble Hill, Lake Placid: 2.2 miles round-trip, 2,332 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, follow Route 86 toward center of town. Take right at town hall onto Mirror Lake Drive. Follow past Northwood Road to entrance of Northwood School. Trailhead is 200 yards on left.
Mount Jo, Lake Placid: 2.6 miles round-trip, 2,876 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, go east on state Route 73 to Adirondack Loj Road. Parking lot is at High Peaks Information Center. There is a $10/day parking fee.
Baxter Mountain, Keene: 2.4 miles round-trip, 2,440 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 west past Keene. Take left on Route 9N toward Elizabethtown. Continue about 2 miles to the top of hill. Trailhead is on the right.
Mount Van Hoevenberg, Lake Placid: 4.4 miles round-trip, 2,940 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 east to Adirondack Loj Road. After 4 miles, take left on Meadow Lane. Trailhead is 0.25 miles on left. New Mount Van Hoevenberg “East Trail” begins at the Olympic Sports Complex off state Route 73.
Big Crow Mountain, Keene: 1.4 miles round-trip, 2,815 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 east. At 200 yards past the intersection with Route 9N in Keene, turn left on Hurricane Road at Keene Town Hall. At just over 2 miles, bear left on O’Toole Lane for 1.2 miles to end at Crow Clearing. Trail is on left.
Bear Den Mountain, Wilmington: 4.5 miles round-trip, 2,650
feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, follow state Route 86 to Whiteface Mountain Ski Center. Turn left into center. Follow road around to the right and the Bear Den Lot.
Pitchoff Mountain, Lake Placid: 5.2 miles round-trip, 3,500 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 to the Pitchoff West Trail, 7.5 miles. Pitchoff East Trail is 2.7 miles farther on Route 73. Trailhead is on left, parking on right.
Catamount Mountain, Wilmington: 3.6 miles round-trip, 3,169 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Wilmington, take Whiteface Veterans’ Memorial Highway. Just before the toll house, bear right toward Franklin Falls. Continue 3.3 miles to Roseman Road. Take a right. Follow Roseman Road for 0.8 mile. Turn right on Plank Road. Follow 2.2 miles to parking area on left.
Hurricane Mountain, Keene: 6.8 miles round-trip, 3,678 feet elevation
Trailhead: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 past Keene. Turn left on Route 9N after 15.5 miles. Parking area is 3.5 miles on right. Trailhead is on left.
Peaks in the Lake Placid region (Staff file photo)
View from the summit of Ampersand Mountain
(Provided photo — SaranacLake.com/ROOST)
Saranac Lake 6er hiking challenge
There are four patches for the Saranac Lake 6er hiking challenge: Summer, Winter, Ultra Summer and Ultra Winter.
Ultra hikers leave from Berkeley Green in downtown Saranac Lake, complete all six mountains in 24 hours and finish at Berkeley Green, where they can ring the bell in the pavilion. Winter hikes are completed between Dec. 21 and March 21. All hikes must have been completed after May 25, 2013.
Hikers who finish the six peaks have the privilege of ringing the bell at Berkeley Green.
Anyone interested needs to complete the online registration form at www.saranaclake.com/activities/outdoor/saranac-lake-6. Each finisher will be sent a certificate with an official member number, 6er patch and sticker. All numbers are awarded in the order of completed applications received. Names will also be added to the official Saranac Lake 6er member roster. Allow for up to 12 weeks for processing.
Learn more at www.saranaclake.com.
Baker Mountain: 1.8 miles round-trip (from the trailhead), 2,457 feet elevation. Beginning in 2022, no longer will starting at the Baker Mountain trailhead count for the 6er program. Now, to earn a 6er patch, one must start and end their Baker Mountain summit (on foot) from the 6er bell at Berkeley Green. Trailhead: From Berkeley Green, head east on Main Street. Take a right on Pine Street and a left on Forest Hill Avenue. Follow it clockwise, as it wraps around Moody Pond. The trailhead is on the left about half a mile.
St. Regis Mountain: 6.6 miles round-trip, 2,874 feet elevation
Trailhead: From downtown Saranac Lake head west on state
Route 86, toward Paul Smiths. At Paul Smith’s College, turn right on state Route 30, take the first left on Keese Mill Road. Follow Keese Mill Road for almost 3 miles to the trailhead parking on the left.
Haystack Mountain: 6.6 miles round-trip, 2,874 feet elevation
Trailhead: From downtown Saranac Lake, take state Route 86 east toward Lake Placid. Continue for about 5 miles and look for the large parking area on the left. This is also the parking area for McKenzie Mountain.
Scarface Mountain: 7.6 miles round-trip, 3,058 feet elevation
Trailhead: From the intersection of state Route 3 and state Route 86 in Saranac Lake, follow Route 86 toward Lake Placid. Continue into Ray Brook, take a right onto Ray Brook Road (just before Maplefields), and look for the parking lot about 0.1 mile on the left.
Ampersand Mountain: 5.4 miles round-trip, 3,352 feet elevation
Trailhead: From downtown Saranac Lake, turn right onto state Route 3, heading west toward Tupper Lake. The parking area is on the right after about 8 miles. The trailhead is across the road on the left.
McKenzie Mountain: 10.6 miles round-trip, 3,861 feet elevation
Trailhead: From downtown Saranac Lake, take state Route 86 east toward Lake Placid. Continue for about 5 miles and look for the large parking area on the left. This is also the parking area for Haystack Mountain.
Saranac Lake 3P [Pole - Pedal - Paddle]
Images from the 2024 Saranac Lake 3P (Pole, Pedal, Paddle) are seen here. The 2025 Saranac Lake 3P will be held on March 1. To register, visit https://saranaclake3p.org. Participants will skin up (ski uphill with climbing skins attached to the underside of their skis) or snowshoe up the slope of Mount Pisgah; alpine ski or snowboard down Mount Pisgah; bike to Dewey Mountain, where they will cross-country ski two loops on a set course on the groomed trails; bike to the Saranac River, where they will paddle down to the Saranac Lake Fish and Game Club; and run back up to the start/finish line at Mount Pisgah. An after-party will be hosted at the Mount Pisgah Lodge, adjacent to the start/finish line.
(Staff photos — Aaron Marbone)
Backcountry skiing on the Champlain Area Trails (Provided photo — LakeChamplainRegion.com/ROOST)
Playing in the Champlain Valley
Lake Champlain — briefly declared the sixth Great Lake in 1998 — offers some of the most breathtaking scenery in the North Country. It’s called the Adirondack Coast.
Bordering New York on the west coast, Vermont on the east coast, and the Canadian province of Quebec on the north, the lake takes up a lot of geography on the map. Lake Champlain ferries (https://ferries.com) are used to cross at places such as Essex, Plattsburgh and Port Kent (summer only). Motorists can also use two bridges to cross, one at Crown Point and one at Rouses Point.
The history of the Champlain Valley dates back to the Native American tribes, Iroquois to the west and Abenaki to the east. When Europeans arrived, they fought over the land, and armies traveled the length of the lake to fight each other during the French and Indian War, Revolutionary War and War of 1812. Forts in Crown Point and Ticonderoga help tell that history.
Seasonal attractions include the Crown Point State Historic Site, Fort Ticonderoga and Mount Defiance, Heritage Museum in Ticonderoga, and Depot Theatre in Westport.
The lake played a large role during the Industrial Revolution, especially with the iron mines around Port Henry. Villages up and down the lake became ports to transport goods and raw materials. Some of this history can be found at the Iron Center Museum in Port Henry.
There’s a sign in Port Henry that documents some of the many sightings of the Lake Champlain monster called Champ.
Introducing next door the Adirondack Liquor Closet
Food and drink are celebrated up and down the lake at farmers markets, farm stands, orchards, wineries, craft breweries, cheese makers and unique farm-to-table experiences.
Outdoor recreation is abundant.
In the winter, there’s ice fishing, cross-country skiing, hiking,
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snowshoeing and snowmobiling. World-class downhill skiing can be found at the Whiteface Mountain Ski Center in Wilmington (whiteface.com).
Plus, there are year-round adventures at Ausable Chasm in Keeseville (www.ausablechasm.com) and High Falls Gorge in Wilmington (highfallsgorge.com). There’s also the Natural Stone Bridge & Caves, with more than 14 miles of trails, in Pottersville (stonebridgeandcaves.com), which opens for snowshoeing once there is enough snow.
In warmer weather, there’s fishing, camping, swimming, boating, paddling and hiking. For a full list of Champlain Area Trails, visit www.champlainareatrails. com.
Up north, the city of Plattsburgh is a center for shopping, health care and education, yet it retains its historical and outdoor recreation roots while growing as a cultural center in northern New York.
In Plattsburgh, cultural institutions and museums include the Plattsburgh State Art Museum, Strand Center Theatre, Strand Center for the Arts, Clinton County Historical Association Museum, War of 1812 Museum, Kent-Delord House Museum and Plattsburgh Air Force Base Museum.
Nearby attractions include the Samuel de Champlain History Center in the village of Champlain and the Alice T. Miner Museum in Chazy.
Plattsburgh is also a transportation hub in the North Country, providing air service at the Plattsburgh International Airport.
Learn more about Plattsburgh and the Lake Champlain region at www.goadirondack.com or www.lakechamplainregion.com.
Fat biking on the Blueberry Hill Trails near Elizabethtown (Provided photo — LakeChamplainRegion.com/ROOST)
A family enjoys the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Ice Palace in February 2024. (Staff photo — Aaron Marbone)
Playing in Saranac Lake
The Saranac Lake region grew as a health resort in the late 1800s and remains a center for health care, higher education, outdoor recreation and a vibrant arts community.
The 2025 Saranac Lake Winter Carnival will be held from Jan. 31 to Feb. 9. This annual celebration of winter features an Ice Palace on the shore of Lake Flower, sporting events and a Gala Parade. The theme this year is “Music Legends.” Learn more at www.saranaclakewintercarnival.com.
Some of the organizations that celebrate the arts year-round are:
¯ Adirondack Artists Guild Gallery. 52 Main St., Saranac Lake.
¯ Saranac Lake ArtWorks. https://saranaclakeartworks.org.
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Charlie’s Inn & Restaurant
“A Lake Clear Tradition”
Good Food - Good Cheer - Good Times
Charlie’s Inn is on the Web
Full Bar, Restaurant & Inn
Serving Lunch & Dinner • Closed Mon. & Tues.
GAS available during regular business hours. Major credit cards accepted
We do small or large group parties, receptions, banquets, showers, etc.
Accommodations available at the Inn
www.charlies-inn.com • Email:CharliesInn@centralny.twcbc.com • 518-891-9858 • Rt. 30 and 186, Lake Clear, NY
Adirondack White Pine Cabins
Custom built for 20 years, Adirondack White Pine Cabins are locally constructed in Saranac Lake, NY. Our small team of carpenters will work with you from start to finish to design and build your custom home.
Once completed in our 5,000 square foot heated shop, your home arrives on your land completely finished and ready to be hooked up to utilities. Our customers can choose from a long list of options and upgrades which include appliances, lighting, faucets, flooring, built-in storage options and many more. Some of our homes have two bedroom options, screened in porches and or storage lofts to give the most possible space. Being 500 sq ft in total size, we make sure to use every possible inch of space to ensure both function and design is just right for you.
Use your custom home year round as your : primary home, a vacation home, a new short term rental or a backyard home for a family member of any age.
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Visitors can learn about the history of Saranac Lake by visiting the Saranac Laboratory Museum, operated by Historic Saranac Lake. It highlights Saranac Lake’s history as a tuberculosis treatment community. It is open year-round from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Visit www. historicsaranaclake.org.
The Saranac Lake region has several outdoor recreation centers, including the following:
¯ Dewey Mountain Recreation Center. Owned by the town of Harrietstown and managed by Adirondack Lakes & Trails Outfitters, this is a cross-country ski and snowshoe facility in the winter. All lower ski trails are groomed. Most lower trails are lit for night use. State Route 30, Saranac Lake. 518-891-2697. www.deweymountain.com.
¯ Mount Pisgah Recreation Center. Owned and operated by the village of Saranac Lake, this is a downhill ski and tubing facility in the winter. Rope tow for tubing and T-bar lift for downhill skiing (vertical rise of 329 feet). Lights for night skiing. 92 Mount Pisgah Dr., Saranac Lake. 518891-0970. www.saranaclakeny.gov.
¯ Paul Smith’s College Visitor Interpretive Center. Owned and operated by the college, this is a cross-country ski and snowshoe facility in the winter. Features 20K of groomed trails for skate and classic skiing and snowshoeing; 40K of groomed and maintained trails for classic skiers and snowshoers; and 10k of maintained snowshoe-only trails along ponds and Jenkins Mountain. 8023 state Route 30, Paul Smiths. 518-327-6241. www.paulsmiths.edu/ vic.
¯ Saranac Lake Civic Center. Hockey and public skating arena. 213 Ampersand Ave., Saranac Lake. 518-8913800. www.saranaclakeciviccenter.org.
Learn more about visiting the Saranac Lake region at www.saranaclake.com.
Health Care For Everyone.
At Hudson Headwaters, our primary care providers are dedicated to meeting your specific health care needs, and keeping you in good health. We’re here for you—at every stage and every age.
Some of the 92 cyclists participate in the Saranac Lake Winter Carnival Blue Buns Wheel-a-Palooza in February 2024.
(Staff photo — Aaron Marbone)
Avalanche danger in the High Peaks
Every winter, the state Department of Environmental Conservation advises backcountry downhill skiers, snowboarders and others who may traverse slides or steep, open terrain in the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks that they should be prepared for avalanche conditions.
Avalanche danger increases during and immediately after major snowfalls and during thaws. Due to high winds, snow depths are deeper on leeward slopes or areas of snow deposits, such as gullies. As snow accumulates, over time it develops distinct layers formed by rain and melt-freeze cycles. When new snow falls onto previous snowpack, it adds weight and downward pressure. Lower snow layers may be reactive to the added stresses of recent snows, creating conditions conducive to avalanches.
Avalanches can occur in any situation where snow, slope and weather conditions combine to create the proper conditions. While the majority of steep, open terrain is found in the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks, avalanche-prone terrain is found on mountains throughout the Adirondacks, including Snowy Mountain in Hamilton County.
DEC offers these tips to stay safe:
¯ Cross-country skiers and snowshoers should stay on trails and away from steep slopes on summits.
¯ Know the terrain, weather and snow conditions.
¯ Dig multiple snow pits to conduct stability tests. Do not rely on other people’s data.
¯ Practice safe route finding and safe travel techniques.
¯ Never ski, board or climb with someone above or below you — only one person on the slope at a time.
¯ Ski and ride near trees, not in the center of slides or other open areas.
¯ Always carry a shovel, probes, and transceiver with fresh bat-
teries.
¯ Ensure all members of the group know avalanche rescue techniques.
¯ Never travel alone.
¯ Always inform someone about where you are going. Additional information on avalanche danger is available at www. dec.ny.gov/public/950.html.
A TRULY ADIRONDACK EXPERIENCE!
Playing on the Adirondack Rail Trail
Skiers get ready for an excursion on the Adirondack Rail Trail in early 2024 at Fowler’s Crossing. While phases 1 and 2 of the trail — from Lake Placid to Floodwood Road — are now open for the warm-weather months, the entire 34-mile trail from Lake Placid to Tupper Lake is open for winter users — Dec. 9, 2024, to March 31, 2025. Winter activities include cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat tire biking and snowmobiling.
Emergency contacts
General emergencies: Call 911
Backcountry emergencies: 518-891-0235
The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation operates a dispatch center at the DEC Region 5 office in Ray Brook 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It should only be contacted to report backcountry emergencies (lost or injured people and wildfires).
Non-emergencies: The New York State Police Troop B, 518897-2000, Clinton, Franklin, Essex, St. Lawrence, Hamilton counties; Troop D, 315-366-6000, Lewis, Herkimer, Oneida, counties; Troop G, 518-783-3211, Fulton, Hamilton, Saratoga, Warren, Washington counties.
(Staff photo — Oliver Reil)
Snuggle in White Pine Camp’s Pristine Setting and Historic Cabins.
Winter is beautiful at White Pine Camp. Bring a good book, cook up a storm, and snuggle in front of a fire in your Historical White Pine Camp cabin. When it’s time to enjoy the outdoors tour around the camp property on the beautiful and pristine paths, play in the historic bowling alley and pool hall and then warm up by lighting a fire in the great room or the tennis house.
Enjoy the other benefits included at no charge with your winter stay: • Unlimited day passes to Paul Smith’s College Visitor Interpretive Center and Cross Country Ski trails.
Winter Specials: Available last minute bookings receive substantial discounts
Tennis House
Ancient walls at High Falls Gorge
By OLIVER REIL
To walk into High Falls Gorge in Wilmington is to step into the old world. Here there are no roads, no cars, no plow trucks or cellphones. Here there is only time, etched into the walls of the gorge as a lasting reminder of our fleeting personal histories.
After the Yaktrax were secured on my big logger’s boots by the staff, I slung my camera bags over my shoulder, strapped my backpack on tightly and headed out the back door of the welcome center on state Route 86. I was grateful for the added footwear; I would have certainly ended up on my seat without it.
A footbridge took me across the West Branch of the AuSable River. Looking upstream, the entire valley was laid out in front of me. Through falling snow, I peered out at the side of Little Whiteface Mountain, which I followed west to Sunrise Notch. I wondered what the valley used to look like before Route 86 carved its way through. I got the impression that it hadn’t changed much at all.
That’s a special trait of the Adirondacks, the ability to make a person feel as if they have traveled back in time, into a grand, untouched wilderness. Even in the most densely trafficked areas of the High Peaks, I’ve had moments of profound solitude, as well as a bone-rattling bear encounter in which I was woken from sleep by a curious bear sniffing my head.
Feeling small, I stepped off the bridge and continued east along the base of Little Whiteface. I reached a fork in the trail, at which I turned right. The AuSable’s leisurely amble was now a turbulent roar as it dropped into the gorge. Ice formed on every possible surface, stained brown by the river. The water ran around and under huge bulbs of ice and snow before plummeting down High Falls into the churning cauldron below. The ice along the base of the gorge looked like snow-covered spray foam. Even in the throes of winter, the gorge earned its native name, “The Ancient Valley of Foaming Water.”
I was reminded of my time in the Narrows of Zion National Park in the summer of 2018. Though exponentially larger than the gorge, the walls of the Narrows share a similar sense of eternity. The biggest difference between the two after size, for me anyway, is the mode of travel. In the gorge, one must remain on walkways to avoid almost certain demise. In the Narrows, travelers must strap on sandals or water shoes and wade their way through the canyon’s waters. In my time there, I did a fair amount of swimming, sometimes up to my chin. Looking down at the icy, frothing water below me now, I was grateful for the railings.
The infrastructure was minimal; enough for safety but not enough to drag the gorge into modernity. Looking down at the water, it was easy to forget about the railings. I continued along the walkway, which ran along the interior wall of the gorge. The main falls behind me now, I focused in on the outlet of the gorge.
I stepped onto yet another bridge, this time over the end of the gorge, where the AuSable resumed its normal flow. I stood, transfixed, by what is likely an overlooked piece of the natural wonder. Again my mind began to wander, this time to the Raquette River. On my last Raquette outing, I canoed for six days from Long Lake to Moody Falls, just below Carry Falls Reservoir. The first half of the trip involved the quiet flow of the Raquette between Long and Tupper Lake. Once past the Piercefield Dam, the river turns to whitewater. The transition between the two is what came to mind as I stared down at the dark water leaving the gorge. I recalled the adrenaline crash after a particularly dicey rapid as we eased into flat water once more.
As I watched the river find its way over boulders and around snowy banks, the world seemed to get quiet. Only two other people had shared the gorge with me that morning, and they were long gone.
Watching the river flow away from the bridges and walkways, cruising out into the trees, it was as if nothing else existed, just me and the wilderness; exactly the way I like it.
(Former Staff Writer Oliver Reil wrote this story for the Jan. 19, 2024, issue of the Lake Placid News.)
High Falls Gorge
(Staff photo — Oliver Reil)
Touring the Olympic Jumping Complex
By OLIVER REIL
Just outside of the village of Lake Placid on state Route 73, the Olympic Jumping Complex is a sight to behold, rich in the region’s ever-present Olympic history.
Turning into the property, I was met with an empty parking lot. I thought, “This can’t be it.” I drove across the lot to a kiosk, which was unmanned, but asked a maintenance worker if I was in the right place. He told me to go down the hill, and I would find the base lodge.
When I arrived at the lodge, I could not believe that such a massive complex of jumps and gondolas could be so hidden. The first time I drove into town on Route 73, I remember coming around a corner and seeing very suddenly the ski jumps rising from the treetops. I nearly crashed as I strained to figure out what these gargantuan concrete towers could be. Now, I’ve stood atop them, taking in one of the most sprawling views in all the Adirondacks.
I was fortunate to get an insider’s tour of the complex. I met Jaime Collins, content and communications manager at the state Olympic Regional Development Authority, in the Intervales Base Lodge at the bottom of the jumping hill. We walked through the dining area and out the back door, where we hitched a ride on the new SkyRide gondola. Collins explained the state-of-the-art pulse gondola replaced a chair lift a few years ago.
As we waited for the next ride, she told me how the profile of the jumps was recently changed to meet International Ski and Snowboard Federation standards. Doing so allows jumpers to remain close to the ground while airborne.
As we rode up the cables to the base of the jump towers, I stared, amazed, at the pulleys, cables and machinery that hoisted us smoothly up the hill. Of course, I’m no engineer, but I could not begin to imagine the process of constructing such a thing.
Collins took me to a publicly accessible platform near the bottom of the ramps. From here, I began to understand why people have told me time and time again about the view. Laid before us were miles of Adirondack mountains in every direction.
We crossed a chain onto the side stairs of the ramps, where I got a close look at the inruns, or frost rails, where jumpers place their skis. Between slats, a thin layer of refrigerated plastic allows for ice to be formed and smoothed to rocket skiers down the ramps. It reminded me of the Lake Placid Toboggan Chute.
We walked back to the base of the towers to the back of the complex, where we boarded the glass elevator that took us nearly to the top of the 120-meter jump tower. The huge windows of the observation deck gave a view even better than the platform below. From here, I could see Mount Van Hoevenberg to the south and the Olympic Center to the north.
Outside on a fenced-in observation walkway, we stepped into the athlete’s entrance and climbed metal stairs to the top of the jumps, a privilege not afforded to most visitors. In my luck, I got to stare down the ramp from dead center, as if seeing it through the eyes of the jumper. From here, the previously impossible feat seemed more reasonable, though light years away from my capabilities.
As we stood on a tiny platform and looked out at the mountains, I thought of Lake Placid’s uniqueness. On any given day, the amount of Olympians and professional athletes in town is staggering. I felt that if I chucked a rock off the platform, I would hit one.
Intervales history
Ski jumping became an Olympic sport in 1924 at the first Winter Games in Chamonix, France. The II Olympic Winter Games at St. Moritz, Switzerland in 1928 had a 70-meter jump.
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Cross-country skiers and beer lovers enjoy the annual Tupper Lake Brew-Ski event in 2023.
Playing in Tupper Lake
Adirondack visitors find Tupper Lake a vibrant winter destination — from ice fishing and snowmobiling to snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. There’s also plenty of state land for hunting in the Tupper Lake region.
The James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails, 141 Country Club Road, are operated by the town of Tupper Lake. Learn more at 518-359-9261 or www.tupperlakeny.gov.
The Wild Center, 45 Museum Dr., introduces people to the natural history of the Adirondacks. The facility is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Learn more at 518-359-7800 or online at www.wildcenter.org.
When it comes to ice fishing, Tupper Lake has a long history. Anglers travel to Tupper Lake from all over the country for the
annual Northern Challenge Ice Fishing Derby. In 2025, it will be held from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 1. This northern pike contest populates Simon Pond with more than 1,000 fishing enthusiasts competing for over $40,000 in cash and prizes. Learn more at www.tupperlake.com.
The 2025 Tupper Lake BrewSki will be held from noon to 4 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 22 at the James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails. Visitors are encouraged to grab their cross-country skis and snowshoes and follow the 1.5-mile beer trail. Participants ski or snowshoe to different brew stations set up along the trail system. Breweries from around the region will pour samples as friends and families gather around the fire pits and mingle. In 2024, 16 brew-
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(Staff photo — Aaron Marbone)
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eries attended the event. Learn more at www.tupperlake.com.
The annual Fire & Ice Golf Tournament will also be held on Saturday, Feb. 22 at the James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails, which is located at the Tupper Lake Golf Club. Teams of three can register for a five-hole scramble and win prize money. Learn more at www.tupperlake.com.
Visitors can connect to the arts at places like the Tupper Arts Center (tupperarts.org), Casagrain Gallery (casagraingallery.com) and Adirondack State Theater (tupperlakemovies.com), all on Park Street. Also, the Adirondack Sky Center & Observatory is located at 178 Big Wolf Road. Learn more at www.adirondackskycenter. org.
Learn more about visiting Tupper Lake online at www.tupperlake.com.
— TupperLake.com/ROOST)
Fire & Ice Golf Tournament in Tupper Lake
(Staff photo — Aaron Marbone)
Ice fishing in Tupper Lake (Provided photo
Tupper Lake Triad hiking challenge
There are two patches for the Tupper Lake Triad hiking challenge: Summer (between March 21 and Dec. 19) and Winter (between Dec. 20 and March 20). Once completed, download the Tupper Lake Triad registration form and mail it with a $5.00 registration fee to: TL Triad, 121 Park St., Tupper Lake, NY 12986. Make checks payable to “ROOST.” Learn more online at www.tupperlaketriad.com.
Mount Arab: 2 miles round-trip, 2,545 feet elevation
Trailhead: From the intersection of state routes 3 and 30 in the village of Tupper Lake, follow Route 3 toward Piercefield. In about 7.25 miles, turn left on Conifer Road and follow it for almost 2 miles to Mount Arab Road, on the left. Drive about 1 mile. The trailhead is on the left; parking is on the right.
Coney Mountain: 2.2 miles round-trip, 2,280 feet elevation
Trailhead: From the intersection of state routes 3 and 30 in the village of Tupper Lake, follow Route 30 toward Long Lake. Drive just under 12 miles to trailhead on the left. A state DEC sign marks the location.
Goodman Mountain: 3.4 miles round-trip, 2,178 feet elevation
Trailhead: From the intersection of state routes 3 and 30 in the village of Tupper Lake, follow Route 30 toward Long Lake. Drive just under 10 miles to Lumberjack Spring on the left. Lumberjack Spring is not marked, but a trailhead post is located there.
There is a fire tower on the peak of Mount Arab, near the hamlet of Piercefield.
The view from the summit of Coney Mountain near Tupper Lake (Provided photo —TupperLake.com/ROOST)
Cross-country skiing at the Paul Smith’s College Visitor Interpretive Center (Provided photo —AdirondackHub.com/ROOST)
XC skiing in the Adirondacks
Whether it’s a Nordic ski center, the Northville-Placid Trail, the Jackrabbit Trail or a backcountry path headed to a frozen pond in the wilderness, there are hundreds of miles of cross-country ski trails in the Adirondack Park. Some are groomed, and some are not. Either way, you are sure to find a trail that suits your recreational needs.
For trail conditions in the High Peaks region, visit the Barkeater Trails Alliance website: www.betatrails.org/conditions. Below are some Nordic ski venues.
¯ Adirondack Interpretive Center. 5922 state Route 28N, Newcomb. The building is closed in November and December and reopens Jan. 1. Trails remain open daily from dawn to dusk. 518582-2000. www.esf.edu/aic.
¯ Adirondack Mountain Club’s Adirondak Loj at the Heart Lake property. Adirondack Loj Road, Lake Placid. 518-523-3441. www.adk.org.
¯ The Adirondack Mountain Club’s Cascade Welcome Center is a year-round outdoor recreation and information center located between Keene and Lake Placid in the Adirondack Park. Featuring an information center building along state Route 73 and a 12-mile trail network, Cascade Welcome Center is the Adirondack Park’s premier resource for visitor information and community-based recreation. Located at 4833 Cascade Road, Lake Placid, the winter hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Call 518-837-5047 or visit online at adk.org/cascade-welcome-center.
¯ Champlain Area Trails. 518-962-2287. www.champlainare-
¯ Fern Park Recreation Area. Loomis Road, Inlet. 518-5483076. www.inletny.com.
¯ Garnet Hill Lodge Cross Country Ski Area. 39 Garnet Hill Road, North River. 518-251-2444. www.garnet-hill.com.
¯ Gore Mountain Nordic Center at North Creek Ski Bowl. State Route 28, North Creek. Snow report: 518-251-5026. Gore Mountain Ski Center: 518-251-2411. https://goremountain.com.
¯ James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails. 141 Country Club Road, Tupper Lake. Town office: 518-359-9261. www.tupperlakeny.gov.
¯ Lapland Lake Nordic Vacation Center. 139 Lapland Lake Road, Benson. 518-863-4974.
¯ Nordic Ski & Snowshoe Center at Whiteface Club & Resort. 373 Whiteface Inn Lane, Lake Placid. 518-523-2551. https:// whitefaceclubresort.com.
¯ Olympic Sports Complex at Mount Van Hoevenberg. 31 Van Hoevenberg Way, Lake Placid. 518-523-2811. https://mtvanhoevenberg.com.
¯ Paul Smith’s College Visitor Interpretive Center. 8023 state Route 30, Paul Smiths. 518-327-6241. www.paulsmiths.edu/vic.
The history of ski jumping at the Olympic Jumping Complex goes back to 1920, when Lake Placid Club officials built a 35-meter jump on the edge of town at the Intervales farm, according to the final report of the III Olympic Winter Games at Lake Placid in 1932. The 35-meter Intervales ski jump hosted thousands of spectators to watch a competition on Feb. 21, 1921. The jump was increased to 50 meters in 1923 and 60 meters in 1927. The 60-meter Intervales jump hosted the ski jumping competition during the 1932 Winter Olympics.
The 60-meter Olympic jump was upgraded to 70 meters in the early 1940s, according to Lake Placid News archives, and it was torn down in 1977 to make way for the new 70- and 90-meter jumps that were built ahead of the XIII Olympic Winter Games in 1980. The landing hills were re-graded in 1994, increasing the jumps to 90 and 120 meters.
For more information about the Olympic Jumping Complex, visit olympicjumpingcomplex.com.
(Former Staff Writer Oliver Reil wrote this story for the Feb. 23, 2024, issue of the Lake Placid News.)
“If
you can’t find it at 40 year-old Hoss’s, you probably don’t need it.”
-Martha Stewart
Adirondack Landmark
We have been serving the ADK community for more than 49 years.. Stop in to explore the store and find all kinds of things you didn’t even know you needed!
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Olympic Jumping Complex in Lake Placid
(Staff photo — Oliver Reil)
photo
Playing in the Central Adirondacks
The Central Adirondacks include communities in Hamilton, Essex and Herkimer counties such as Long Lake, Raquette Lake, Blue Mountain Lake, Newcomb, Minerva, Schroon Lake, North Hudson, Indian Lake, Speculator, Inlet and Old Forge.
Here you will find an abundance of winter outdoor activities, such as cross-country and downhill skiing, inner tubing, snowboarding, ice fishing, snowmobiling, figure skating, pond hockey and snowshoeing.
Learn more at the following tourism offices.
¯ Hamilton County Department of Economic Development & Tourism: 102 County View Dr., Lake Pleasant, 800-648-5239, adirondackexperience.com.
¯ Town of Long Lake Parks, Recreation and Tourism: 1130
Deerland Road, Long Lake, 518-624-3077, https://mylonglake. com.
¯ Indian Lake Chamber of Commerce: 6301 Route 30, Indian Lake, 518-648-5112, www.indian-lake.com.
¯ Inlet Information Office: 160 Route 28 at Arrowhead Park, Inlet, 315-357-5501, inletny.com.
¯ Adirondacks Speculator Region Chamber of Commerce: 2960 Route 30, Speculator, 518-548-4521, www.speculatorchamber. com.
¯ Town of Webb Visitor Information Center: 3140 Route 28, Old Forge, 315-369-6983, www.oldforgeny.com.
¯ Adirondack Hub: www.adirondackhub.com.
Snowshoeing in Schroon Lake
Gore Mountain Ski Resort, North Creek
A cultural destination in the snow
By OLIVER REIL
Just south of this village sits a little house at the end of a road, one with history that dates to the mid-1800s. Under the shadow of the Olympic ski jumps and with sweeping views of the High Peaks, the small abode — built in 1855 — would be easy to overlook, despite its great cultural and historical significance. In abolitionist John Brown’s final decade, it was his family’s home.
Brown was famous for his advocacy of violent revolt against slavery, most notably his three-day raid on the federal arsenal in Harpers Ferry, Virginia (now part of West Virginia) starting the night of Oct. 16, 1859.
There he led 21 men into combat with the goal of liberating arms and putting them into the hands of slaves for violent uprising. He was defeated and captured suffering a gash to the head and a bayonet wound to his kidney.
Brown was tried for treason and sentenced to death by hanging. Per Virginia state law, authorities had to wait 30 days after pronouncement of execution before hanging Brown. He used that time to write letters and grant interviews, which he used to get his word out. He was executed on Dec. 2, and his body was transported back to the Adirondack Park, where it was buried at what is now the John Brown Farm State Historic Site, just south of the village of Lake Placid.
The farm is quiet in the winter. It is a historic site operated by the state Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation, much of it preserved as it was in the 19th century. Split-rail fences run throughout the rolling farmland, and the old house stands
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Newcomb, NYWhere Nature Meets Adventure!
John Brown Farm State Historic Site in Lake Placid
(Staff photo — Oliver Reil)
Ice fishing at Indian Lake in Hamilton County (Provided photo — ExperienceOurADK.com/ROOST)
This may be your year for ice fishing
(The following information was provided by the state Department of Environmental Conservation.)
Anglers in New York state can stay busy all winter by targeting some of their favorite fish species through the ice. If you’ve never been ice fishing before and would like to test the waters — learn how to ice fish. It’s a safe and fun activity. For an overview of ice fishing, visit online at https://www.dec.ny.gov/ outdoor/119684.html.
Popular species
While most freshwater fish can be caught through the ice, only certain species are in season through the winter. Some popular species to target through the ice in New York are yellow perch, northern pike, walleye, lake trout, brown trout, Atlantic landlocked salmon and black crappie.
Ice fishing regulations
Ice fishing is permitted on many waters in New York state, but not all. View fishing regulations online at https://www.dec.ny.gov/ outdoor/31416.html.
Ice shanties
Ice shanties must be marked on the outside with the owner’s name and address in letters at least 3 inches high. Shanties must be removed from all waters by March 15 to prevent them from falling through the ice and becoming hazards to navigation.
Baitfish
Baitfish are commonly used when ice fishing. Make sure your baitfish are certified disease free when you purchase them. Never dump unused baitfish or water from your bait bucket into a lake or pond. Undesirable aquatic invasive species might be mixed in with your bait or bait water. View New York baitfish regulations at https://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/47282.html.
Ice safety
Safe ice should be your number one consideration when ice fishing. A minimum of three to four inches of solid ice is the general rule for safety. Ice thickness, however, is not uniform on any body of water. The guidelines presented here are based on new, clear
ice on non-running waters. Since ice thickness can vary on a lake, check the ice periodically to stay safe.
Ice thickness/permissable load
¯ 2 inches or less — stay off
¯ 4 inches — ice fishing or other activities on foot
¯ 5 inches — snowmobile or ATV ¯ 8-12 inches — car or small pickup ¯ 12-15 inches — medium truck
Note: This guide is based on new, clear ice on non-running waters. Slush ice is about 50% weaker. Clear ice over running water is about 20% weaker. Double the recommendations for white ice.
Many ice anglers do not like to fish on less than 5 inches of ice, and do not like to drive a pick-up truck on less than 15 inches of ice. Use common sense.
Be cautious in areas where “bubblers” are used to protect docks. They can produce thin, unsafe ice some distance away. Be especially alert in areas near shore, over moving bodies of water, and where streams enter and exit lakes and ponds.
Remember, use the buddy system while ice fishing — it saves lives.
Where to ice fish
For locations to ice fish in the Adirondack region, visit the following pages on the DEC website: Clinton County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/32337.html
Essex County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/32342.html
Franklin County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/32350.html
Hamilton County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/32354.html
St. Lawrence County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/119552.html
Warren County: www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/32368.html
Winter outdoor safety tips
(The following information was provided by the state Department of Environmental Conservation. For more information, visit www.dec.ny.gov.)
Safety and preparedness are extremely important no matter your physical ability or destination. Properly preparing for winter conditions is essential for a more enjoyable and safer experience.
Plan ahead
¯ Learn about the area you’ll be visiting ahead of time; know the opportunities and the regulations. Check maps, guidebooks and websites.
¯ Arrange to go with a group or at least one other person.
¯ Know your skill level and physical capabilities-choose trails within your or your group’s ability. Remember it takes more effort and energy to move through snow.
¯ Days are short — know what time the sun sets and plan your hike so you can return before dark.
¯ Inform someone of your travel plans-let them know where you are going, your planned route, when you plan to return, and emergency numbers to call if you do not return at the scheduled time.
¯ Program cellphones with the DEC dispatch phone numbers, but do not rely on cell service in all areas. Adirondacks: 518-8910235
¯ Check the weather forecast, but keep in mind that temperatures will be lower, winds stronger, and snow deeper on mountain summits. Prepare accordingly and postpone your trip if the conditions are too harsh.
¯ Check trail conditions before hiking.
¯ Make sure you know how to use a map and compass when planning to hike in remote locations.
What to wear
¯ Base layers of moisture-wicking fabric to keep your skin dry, insulating layers such as wool or fleece, and waterproof or water-resistant outer layers. Avoid cotton fabrics, which hold moisture.
¯ Thick socks, a winter hat, and gloves or mittens.
¯ Waterproof, insulated boots.
¯ Skis or snowshoes, if snow depths are deeper than 8 inches.
¯ Sunscreen and sun glasses.
¯ A watch or other time-keeping device.
What to pack
¯ Day pack large enough to carry your gear
Water and high energy snacks
¯ First aid kit
¯ Trail map and compass or GPS unit
¯ Extra clothing, including hat, socks and mittens
¯ Plastic whistle (avoid metal, which can freeze)
¯ Micro-spikes or crampons for icy conditions
¯ Flashlight or headlamp and extra batteries
¯ Pocket knife
¯ Trekking poles
¯ Bivy sack, space blanket and heavy-duty garbage bags for emergency shelter
¯ Fire starter kit: matches in waterproof container and cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly
Winter over? Time for maple syrup
By ANDY FLYNN Editor/Publisher
LAKE PLACID — At 3 years old, little Molly Brennan Shergold wasn’t the shortest mammal in the Heaven Hill Farm sugar house on Saturday afternoon, March 18, 2023, during a Maple Weekend tour with her family. There was also Kim, a chocolate lab dressed in a yellow safety vest, and a puppy in a dog crate near the front door.
Molly quickly climbed the icy gravel road, up the hill from the main house to the sugar house, where Tom and Sarah Manitta were waiting for curious visitors to arrive.
“Welcome to the sugar house,” Tom said as Molly and her family walked through the front door. “Make yourself at home. It’s a little warmer in here.”
Molly made friends with the dogs as the adults began chatting with Tom, who has been running Heaven Hill’s maple operations for the past four years. There were Molly’s parents — Katie Brennan and Simon Shergold — and Simon’s brother and sister-in-law, Stephen and Shirley Shergold of Nottingham, United Kingdom.
When they arrived, Tom was still boiling the first batch of maple syrup for the day.
“Because of that, I don’t have any fresh syrup to taste yet,” Tom said. “Maybe later today.”
Heaven Hill Farm has a rich history of producing maple syrup. It is located near the end of Bear Cub Lane, past the Cornell University Uihlein Maple Research Forest, which also hosts Maple Weekend tours every March. Both are on property once owned by Henry Uihlein II and his wife, Mildred. Longtime seasonal residents of Lake Placid, they bought Heaven Hill Farm in 1941. The Cornell Maple Research Forest, an experimental sugar bush, was established in 1965.
In the spring of 1950, about 2,200 buckets were hung on sugar maple trees each spring at Heaven Hill Farm, collecting as much as 7,000 gallons of sap a day. Gathering tanks were hauled on a sled throughout the sugar bush to collect the sap, which was then boiled down in an evaporator in the sugar house.
Today, Heaven Hill Farm bridges the past to the present, collecting sap the contemporary way — through blue plastic tubing on the hill above the sugar house — and the traditional way — in blue buckets hanging from several trees downhill from the sugar house.
“Everything downhill, I’ve got to carry up,” Tom said.
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Tom Manitta shows visitors the difference between two grades of maple syrup at Heaven Hill Farm near Lake Placid in March 2023. From left are Manitta, Simon Shergold, Stephen Shergold and Shirley Shergold.
(Staff photo — Andy Flynn)
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On the hill behind the sugar house is an open shed with a sap-collection tank. It’s a traditional gravity-fed operation.
“Everything comes from the trees, flows down through tubes into a tank, and it flows right into the sugar house and into the evaporator here,” Tom said.
Inside the sugar house, Tom and Sarah stand next to a shiny, stainless steel evaporator. One sideboard has rows of more than 50 small plastic containers filled with “pure Adirondack maple syrup.” Tiny glass sample bottles are lined up along one window sill, each filled with different grades of syrup shining glowing in the sunlight. The stainless steel counters and sink next to the boiling operation are clean, waiting for the first draw of syrup while the sap boils down.
It seems as though everything Tom needs for the maple operation is in this one room, either hanging from the ceiling, on the wall or on a bookshelf — tools for tapping and boiling, educational materials, even a coffee maker for those long, cold days and nights of boiling.
“It’s nice to keep the tradition alive,” Tom said. “Our focus is a little bit educational, outreach, and all the syrup that we make is syrup that we give away. We don’t sell syrup. We may be one of the only sugar houses around that say that.”
As Tom stands by the evaporator — made in Canada — he asked Molly and her family if they had any questions. Yes, there were questions, plenty of them.
Question: How much do you produce?
Tom: “Last year we made about 80 gallons. ... Now, down the road (at the Cornell University Uihlein Maple Research Forest), that’s what they make in a day.”
Question: Do you make different types, different grades of syrup?
Tom: “A lot of it depends on the conditions of the year. Like last year, a lot of the sap that was produced created a really light
color amber syrup. ... Because we’re wood-fired, we typically tend to get more of a darker color. ... Sometimes it will be darker because we cook it longer.”
Maple producers have the option of cooking with a variety of fuel sources: wood, oil, propane or pellets.
Question: When do you have to start preparing?
Tom: “In January, we’ll start being up in the woods. We do wood production all year round. ... We’ll get the sugar bush all fixed up and ready to go. We’ll tap trees. And then around this time is when we start boiling. We have a little more tapping to do.”
As the group walked through the back door, Tom showed them the sap holding tank and the lines of tubing up the hill.
“This line (goes) way up high in the trees,” Tom said. “About 95% of our trees are up on the summit. There’s really good soil. ... The smaller diameter tubes flow into the big tube, and then flows into the tank. And then it goes into the evaporator.”
Where Kids Play to Learn and Growns-Ups Learn to Play! Interactive exhibits & changing daily programs. Visit our online calendar of events 315-274-9380 • 10 Raymond Street • Potsdam www.northcountrychildrensmuesum.org
Faith on Mount Jo
By OLIVER REIL
The end of Adirondack Loj Road is a wonderland of possibility, standing as one of the most centralized gateways into the heart of the Adirondack High Peaks. I went, however, for my second Lake Placid 9’er on Monday, Feb. 26, 2024 — Mount Jo — my first being Cobble Hill in Lake Placid.
After parking in the lots near the High Peaks Information Center, run by the Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK), I slung on my pack and shed a layer. The sun was out, and the temperature read in the mid-30s. I knew I was out of shape, so a cold start was a must.
I hiked through the woods near the parking lot toward Heart Lake. The trail brought me through the usual dark Adirondack timber, where I found junctions that led me to Mount Jo.
After signing the trail register at the start, I headed up the rocky path, microspikes strapped tight. There are two ways up Mount Jo, the junction of which I found after a short climb. The “Short Trail” was to my right, the “Long Trail” on my left. In preparation for the hike, I read that the Short Trail is far steeper than the Long Trail, with barely any reprieve from a brutal gradient. Being out of shape and mentally bogged, I opted for the Short Trail.
Waking up that morning, I felt exhausted. Things in my personal life were less than wonderful, and the woes that ailed me had been taking control over the last few weeks. The Short Trail was exactly what I needed: A challenge.
Never is my mind clearer than in the grip of a physical challenge. I was a wrestler through middle and high school, wrestling all year round in school and off-season clubs. I was never a champion, never a star. What wrestling did was ground me. It’s just you on the mat with another athlete, and both of you are trying with every ounce of strength in your body to overcome the other with raw power, strategy and technical skill. It is not for the faint-hearted.
I realize now that the lessons I learned in the sport have become part of my core nature. I do a lot alone, be it living, traveling or hiking. I carry my burdens alone, and I don’t always do it well. But I know, when faced with one I feel I can no longer bear, I can turn to physicality to heal my mind.
On my way up the 700-foot gain, the trail did not disappoint. Classic in these mountains, the trail was nothing but steep inclines and boulders big and small. My breath labored as I clambered my way up, thankful there was still some wind in my sails. I stopped often. My stomach lurched angrily, as I had not fed it much over the last few days. At one point, stopping yet again for a breath, I thought back to what was the greatest challenge of my life, physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually: traveling alone to Morocco.
On my last day there, I hiked into the Rif mountains. I got a late start, again with a stomach empty from several days of not eating. The sun bore down on me like a flame thrower. I hung a shirt over my head and kept going. I had 10 miles to do, where I would find a village and spend the night.
Those mountains broke me down to nothing and stripped me bare. They showed me all that I was not, despite my best efforts. It revealed to me how far I had to go in my own growth. Along my route, I stopped often to sit in the shade and weep.
At the 5-mile mark, at the top of a monumental Rif valley, I looked down and saw my village 5 miles away. It was late afternoon, and I was slowing down. Almost out of water, my toenails surely on their way out in the ends of my boots, I sat on the road and thought on my options. I sat there, pondering what to do, ashamed that I was thinking about giving up. But I knew, deep down in my gut, that if I persisted something bad would happen. I waited for a truck to rumble by, and hitched a ride.
On Mount Jo, there were no roads, no trucks of Moroccan strangers to give me a lift. I had water, a snack and plenty of daylight. And this time, I wanted to struggle. I needed it.
About halfway up Jo, the trail winds into a chute of boulders along the side of a huge rock face covered in brilliantly blue ice. I continued on, laughing every time I looked up at the ever-steeper
trail in front of me. I felt good. Behind me, I could start to make out through the trees several High Peaks.
Eventually, I reached a flat stretch near the summit. I got that feeling you can only get in the mountains, that mixed relief and excitement when you know how close you are to the view.
I passed another intersection of the Short and Long Trails; I intended to take the latter down. Just beneath the summit, I crept up iced-over wooden stairs. I probably looked ridiculous as I scrambled, but better safe than sorry, especially alone. Finally, I reached the summit.
The wind was whipping at the top, but it felt good on my face. The sun was out above me; to the southwest, Wright, Algonquin and Iroquois were partially socked in. Toward Avalanche Pass, rays of light filtered through the clouds. I sat on the rock and watched the scene for about 10 minutes, grateful to have the moment to myself. At 2,876 feet, Jo may not be a high peak, but it satisfied my needs tenfold.
After going backward down those icy steps, I made my way contentedly down the Long Trail, which is really just .2 miles longer than the 1.1-mile Short Trail. This trail had a much gentler pitch, which my knees appreciated. I walked over boot and dog prints, red squirrel and fox tracks. This side of the mountain felt greener, it not being a chute of boulders. About halfway down, I came to an opening on a massive rock slab, which the trail skirted. I paused here to soak up some vitamin D and take in the view one more time before heading back down into the timber.
As I finished up, arriving once more to the forest around the parking lot, I felt rejuvenated. It took an hour and 45 minutes to undo weeks of internal struggle.
People ask me occasionally if I practice any sort of faith. I do not, I tell them. I do, however, find faith in the mountains. Not in a deity, nor in a belief. In the mountains, I find faith in myself.
For more about ADK and the Heart Lake property, visit adk.org.
For more information about the Lake Placid 9’er hiking challenge, visit lakeplacid9er.com.
(Former Staff Writer Oliver Reil wrote this story for the March 1, 2024, issue of the Lake Placid News.)
View of the High Peaks from the summit of Mount Jo. (Staff photo — Oliver Reil)
Continued from Page 31
tall and strong.
Walking onto the grounds, the bitter cold and gray skies felt fitting. I was immediately met with Brown’s grave, protected by a thick, black iron fence. An information post alongside the fence told me that 12 men are believed buried there; Brown, his son Watson and, in a third grave, 10 other men with whom Brown raided the arsenal.
Brown moved onto the farm in 1849 in order to help the inexperienced farmers of Timbuctoo, an experimental Black settlement in North Elba, cultivate their land and turn it into successful farms. His 244-acre plot was gifted to him by fellow abolitionist Gerrit Smith, who created the settlement in 1846 when he divided 120,000 acres of land he owned into 40-acre plots for the would-be farmers. Smith did so to circumvent New York’s law that said Black men could not vote unless they owned land worth $250 or a home.
Today, Timbuctoo is lost in time and forgotten by many, but Brown’s farm stands as a reminder of efforts past, that human rights and the struggles to protect them were not exclusive to the South or to cities.
The fight for equality was and is everywhere, even in the heart of the Adirondacks.
The farm’s visitor center is open this winter from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday, and the farmhouse is open for tours by appointment. The grounds are open year-round during daylight hours, with a network of trails for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and dog walking.
Special events are held throughout the year.
Visit http://tinyurl.com/3dmawdbx or call 518-523-3900 for more information on the farm and programs, or check out the farm’s Facebook page at facebook.com/JohnBrownFarm.
(Former Staff Writer Oliver Reil wrote this story for the Jan. 26, 2024, issue of the Lake Placid News.)
John Brown Farm State Historic Site in Lake Placid
¯ Regional Office of Sustainable Tourism and Lake Placid Convention/Visitors Bureau: 518-523-2445, with offices in Lake Placid (2608 Main St.) and Crown Point (814 Bridge Road), www. lakeplacid.com.
¯ North Warren Chamber of Commerce: 3 Dynamite Hill Road, Chestertown, 518-494-2722, https://northwarren.com.
¯ Lake Luzerne Regional Chamber of Commerce: 37 Main St., Lake Luzerne, 518-696-3500, https://lakeluzernechamber.org.
¯ Warrensburg Chamber of Commerce: 518-623-2161, https:// warrensburgchamber.com.
Washington County
¯ Washington County Tourism: 383 Broadway, Fort Edward, 888-203-8622, https://washingtoncounty.fun.
New York Adirondack Park encompasses 6 million acres, roughly the size of Vermont. It was created by the Legislature in 1892 and is now the largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States. Nearly half of the Park is owned by the state and is constitutionally protected as “forever wild” Forest Preserve. The remaining half is private land that includes communities, farms, timber lands, businesses, homes and camps.
