ALH Times - 2019 edition by Adriatic Luxury Hotels

i s su e 2019

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ALH TIMES the official adriatic luxury hotel s periodical

dubrovnik summer vill as

The Sorkočević summer villa in Lapad

o l a m Po

page 12

a symbol of the city

Minčeta page 32

going local

Insider tips Pomalo page 37

content

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Content r egul a r columns

highligh t s

The Sorkočević summer villa in Lapad

Dubrovnik's 5 ultimate love spots

04 News 06 Dubrovnik — a Mediterranean treasure 08 The short list

27 15 Best Dubrovnik Instamoments — Kupjerta

The Dubrovnik Maskeron — a good luck gargoyle

28 Orlando the knight — a symbol of Dubrovnik’s freedom

Pardon my Croatian — Dining edition

46 Ćiro — Historic train in Konavle

Life according to Kawa

21 Dubrovnik as a stage 22 Dream-haves / Fashion 24 Dubrovnik Summer Festival 34 Events in Dubrovnik

New

37 Going local — Insider tips

18 Ruđer Bošković — a great universal mind

10 Dubrovnik Quintessentially

Cycling and walking trail Ćiro

31 Maestral — friendly northwest wind

39 Delicious secrets: Recipes from old Dubrovnik

A symbol of the city — Minčeta

Fun facts about Croatia

41 ALH Kitchen confidential 45 Konavle tips 50 Adriatic Luxury Hotels

Impressum Publisher: Adriatic Luxury Hotels, Jadranski Luksuzni Hoteli d.d. | Masarykov put 20 | 20 000 Dubrovnik | Phone: +385 (0)20 300 350 | Fax: +385 (0)20 300 319 E-mail: marketing@alh.hr | www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com Editor in Chief: ALH Sales & Marketing Team | Design and pre-press: Negra Nigoević | Photo credit: Adriatic Luxury Hotels archive, Maria Concept Store, Dubravko Lenert Photography, Dubrovnik Summer Festival, Društvo prijatelja dubrovačke starine | Advertising: Silvija Valjalo | e-mail: silvija.valjalo@alh.hr | Tel: +385 (0)20 300 317 M: +385 (0)91 430 1508 | Printing copies: 15 000 | Print: Alfa-2 ©Adriatic Luxury Hotels — March, 2019

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News alh

Welcome to our hotel group! Adriatic Luxury Hotels (ALH) manages the most luxurious hotels and villas in the Dubrovnik area. Currently, our portfolio consists of 12 properties. Find out more about our properties and ideas for your next holiday destination on page 50.

Prepare to be amazed, inspired and pampered the MAKEOVER OF HOTEL BELLEVUE DUBROVNIK With the Mediterranean Sea and ancient Old Town on its doorstep, Hotel Bellevue provides a perfect base for exploring this UNESCO-protected city, while offering the luxury of pure enjoyment and relaxation in your own oasis of peace and tranquillity. Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik is set to re-emerge as an icon of boutique luxury and design, with a fresh new look after its complete renovation in Spring 2019. Upon re-opening, the hotel will reveal 91 sumptuous rooms and suites, an attractive lobby, the sophisticated Vapor restaurant and a sleek and cosy Spice Lounge with terrace. The hotel will be completely transformed to capture the serenity of the Mediterranean setting, reflecting the natural colours of the surrounding landscape through sophisticated design, contemporary styling and a quirky, modern spirit. Carved into a secluded cliff-side with sweeping sea views over the Miramare bay, this luxury retreat offers an elegant, private sanctuary and a total luxury experience: a refreshing beach, fabulous food, romantic dining settings and an invigorating spa.

Advent season at the Excelsior a HOLIDAY PROGRAMME FOR THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR For a truly memorable Christmas celebration, look no further than the iconic Hotel Excelsior, where you’re invited to celebrate the magical days of Christmas in a luxurious seaside setting. As of last year, Hotel Excelsior has introduced a rich holiday event programme throughout the month of December. ‘Advent Season at the Excelsior’ begins the first week of December and lasts until January 6. This exquisite holiday program features live music every night at the Abakus Piano Bar, where the heated terrace provides the most beautiful views of Old Town of Dubrovnik. In addition to daily holiday events, enjoy the holiday spirit with a number of musical guests and a rich selection of traditional Dubrovnik desserts and cocktails at discount holiday prices. The highlight of the program is a gala New Year’s Eve celebration featuring renowned performers, an open-air premium bar, a snack buffet at the Abakus Piano bar and midnight champagne with New Year’s fireworks overlooking the Old Town. Enjoy the most wonderful time of the year at hotel Excelsior! A place where memories are being made…

The eclectic wine list is carefully curated to satisfy both adventurers and traditionalists alike, featuring a rich selection of more than 180 excellent wines and champagnes, including European and New World reds and whites. The Wine Bar at Bellevue offers some of the world’s best quality wines — from international biodynamic and organic wines, to the Croatian winners of the ‘Gold Decanter World Wine Awards 2018’ (Malvazija

Prima Luce – Cosseto, Il Primo Teran – Fakin). The possibilities are endless. The wine bar also offers international favourites such as Château Mouton Rothschild and Sancerre Domaine Vacheron from France, Masseto Bolgheri and Vintage Tunina Jermann from Italy, Unico Vega Sicilia from Spain, Altair from Chile, Opus one from the United States, Grange Penfolds from Australia and many more that may surprise you. The most aesthetic wine lovers can choose among ‘Limited Availability’ wines such as Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Haut Brion - First growths of 1855 Premier crus from Bordeaux and unusual grape varieties like Manzoni bianco – a cross between Pinot blanc and Riesling. Sip a glass or reserve a tasting in The Wine Bar at Bellevue. We invite you to savour some of the most exquisite wines in unique settings that merge chic sophistication with inviting warmth.

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Wine has always inspired and enriched cultures around the world. Now let us inspire you with the latest addition to the newly refurbished hotel Bellevue – our elegant new wine bar. The Wine Bar at Bellevue offers a contemporary entertainment experience for all wine lovers. Blending perfectly with the hotel’s elegant and luxurious ambience it will surprise you with a diverse wine menu, available by the glass or bottle. As fine dining and superb wine go hand in hand, we offer ‘Wine Flight’ – a tasting experience that pairs three sorts of the most prominent Croatian wines, with specially selected light local dishes.

The Wine Bar at Bellevue A REFRESHING NEW ADDITION

dubrovnik — a mediterranean treasure

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Dubrovnik a Mediterranean Treasure

At the southern tip of Croatia’s long coastline, Dubrovnik has long been known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, but it is in fact one of the great sights of the Mediterranean, rightly designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to its natural beauty and rich history, Dubrovnik’s cultural events and diverse programme of attractions and activities in all seasons, make Dubrovnik the perfect destination for sightseeing, sport, cultural events or simply relaxing in a beautiful Mediterranean setting. For many centuries Dubrovnik was an independent Republic, a proud cultural centre and an important Mediterranean trading power. Although no longer politically independent, it remains a centre of culture and tourism - a city of museums and galleries, famous for its annual Summer Festival, an international celebration of outstanding music and theatre. Add to all this the seductive charm of a balmy Mediterranean climate and coastal scenery of incomparable beauty, and you have a powerful magnet for international tourism.

Dubrovnik is more than a city. A perfect combination of past, present and future, of culture, heritage and natural beauty, it offers a unique experience and unforgettable holidays. No wonder it has become the latest must-see Mediterranean destination.

The enchantment starts with the panoramic view of the Old Town of Dubrovnik, glimpsed first from the winding road that brings you to town from the airport. Rare are the cities that can boast a comparable location, or such well-preserved medieval walls. These ancient fortifications were built with good reason - conquerors have always been attracted to Dubrovnik’s beauty and wealth, even as recently as the last decade of the 20th century. But now Dubrovnik’s walls teem not with soldiers, but tourists and open-air theatre performers. Half a million people visit the city every year, to experience its fascinating historic attractions. Dubrovnik is itself a living museum, a treasure trove of Baroque, Renaissance and medieval churches and palaces. The people of Dubrovnik are immensely proud of their city. They love their beautiful coastline, the sparkling emerald and sapphire hues of the clear sea as it crashes against the rocks of countless bays and coves, and the cliffs of lush subtropical vegetation. And they love the warm southern climate. With more than 250 days of sunshine a year, Dubrovnik sunbathes even in winter, when the orange and

lemon trees are filled with fruit. The average temperature is 10°C in winter and around 26°C in summer. Dubrovnik’s long history of renowned visitors starts with Richard the Lionheart, crusader king of England, whom legend claims visited here in the 12th century. The city’s guest book includes royalty, statesmen, athletes, actors, artists, and musicians of every nation. Edward and Mrs. Simpson, Queen Elizabeth II, King Olaf, Margaret Thatcher, Edward Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Michael Douglas and Catharine Zeta Jones, Richard Gere, Nick Nolte and Tom Cruise are just some of the great names who have walked the shining marble stones of the Old Town Stradun. Many celebrities anchor their luxury yachts just outside the Old Town, in front of the island of Lokrum. Roman Abramović, Paul Getty, Bill Gates, Caroline of Monaco, the King of Jordan and the Sultan of Oman are among those who value the privacy of their floating palaces. Oligarchs and humble backpackers alike succumb to the seductive beauty of Dubrovnik.

Did you know? The Dubrovnik Republic was one of the first countries in the world to recognise the newly independent United States of America, in 1776.

Richard the Lionheart, King of England, came to Dubrovnik in the autumn of 1192, on his return from the crusades. He took shelter from a storm on the island of Lokrum.

In 1296 the Dubrovnik Republic built a sewage system which is still in use.

The pharmacy in the Franciscan monastery in Dubrovnik has been operating continuously since 1317.

The Dubrovnik maritime insurance law (‘Ordo super assecuratoribus’, 1568) is the oldest such law in the world.

Dubrovnik’s navy in the 16th century consisted of 40,000 sailors and more than 180 large ships, and was one of the most powerful in the Mediterranean.

Dubrovnik passed a resolution abolishing slavery and forbidding the transport of slaves on 27 January 1416, making it the first state in Europe to abolish slavery.

The orphanage founded at the Convent of St. Claire in 1432 was one of the first in the world.

Shakespeare’s ‘Merchant of Venice’ and ‘The Taming of the Shrew’ mention the term ‘argosy’, meaning ‘a boat from Dubrovnik’.

The first quarantine in the world was established in Dubrovnik in 1377. Travellers arriving from areas infected with contagious disease were separated and held in the quarantine until they were proven to be healthy.

When the Minčeta Tower was builtin 1464, the builders did not have enough stones to complete the building. Everyone arriving from Gruž or Ploče was required to bring with them the heaviest stone they could carry to contribute to the project.

Trsteno arboretum near Dubrovnik was founded in the 15th century and is the oldest arboretum in the world. Some of the plane trees are almost 400 years old.

dubrovnik — the short list

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T HE REC T OR ’ S PALACE The unadorned simplicity of this Gothic-Renaissance palace may seem too modest for the affluence of the Dubrovnik Republic, but restraint was the style of those times, and this splendid building has survived explosions and earthquakes throughout the years. The Rector of Dubrovnik lived in this palace during his one-month rule, separated from his family, and was only allowed to leave the building for official business. The atrium is a harmonious space, with Corinthian columns, galleries, a beautiful Baroque staircase and outstanding acoustics. It is often used for chamber music concerts.

The Short List

S T RA D UN Although its official name is Placa, everyone knows the main street of the Old Town as Stradun, the favourite promenade of every Dubrovnik resident and visitor. Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1667, it is a broad axis of graceful and harmonious stone buildings, impressive in their simple dignity. After the disaster, the devastated city needed to secure its defence quickly and ensure that life in the city would continue. Thus all the houses along the Stradun were rebuilt according to designs approved by the Senate of the Republic. Buildings along the Stradun were all rebuilt to a uniform height, with nearly identical facades, and similar layout, with shops on the ground floor, as trade was a top priority of the Republic of Dubrovnik.

Our guide to must-see Dubrovnik sights LO V RI J ENAC F OR T RESS

CI T Y WALLS Dubrovnik’s most celebrated landmark is its city walls, a 1,940m stone curtain surrounding the old city. Much more than a simple wall, the strongest and most beautiful city fortification complex on the Mediterranean includes towers, bastions, castles and fortresses. The outer dimensions have remained the same since the 14th century, but the structures themselves took shape gradually during the golden age of Dubrovnik - from the fall of Constantinople in 1453 to the great earthquake of 1667. Walking the ramparts is a magnificent introductory tour of the city.

Perched on a cliff 37 m above the sea, this fortress was built in the 16th century to protect the city from Venetian attack. On the fortress’ walls an historic inscription can still be read: Non bene pro toto libertas venditur auro. Freedom cannot be sold for gold. The fortress is often used as a performance stage during the Summer Festival, and makes a magnificent setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet.

dubrovnik — the short list

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S P ON Z A PALACE All trade routes of the Dubrovnik Republic led to this building, one of the loveliest palaces in the city. Constructed in a blend of late Gothic and Renaissance styles according to the designs of Paskoje Miličević, the palace successfully combines many styles and gives us a glimpse of the richness of the lavish palaces that stood in Dubrovnik before the 1667 earthquake. The arcaded courtyard was a lively trading centre and meeting place. One wing of the building housed the state mint, founded in the 14th century and operated within the Sponza Palace until the fall of the Republic. Today the palace is the seat of the Dubrovnik archive, which safeguards the city’s oldest documents and invaluable historical materials. The square in front of the Sponza Palace is the site of the opening ceremony of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival each year; from the palace’s beautiful piano nobile terrace, actors dressed in costumes of Dubrovnik’s rector and noblemen evoke the spirit and noble traditions of the Dubrovnik Republic.

ROLAN D ’ S COLUMN On the main square, between the Sponza Palace and Church of St. Blaise, stands a 15th century stone column with a sculpture of a warrior. The sculpture represents the knight Roland, who allegedly saved Dubrovnik from the Saracens and was deeply revered during the Dubrovnik Republic. The white flag of the Republic was always flown proudly here.

MIN Č E T A F OR T RESS Dominating the city, and defying all enemies, this beautiful fortress is a symbol of Dubrovnik’s freedom. A smaller rectangular tower on this site dates from the 14th century, while the monumental round tower we know today was designed by the Florentine Renaissance architect Michelozzo Michelozzi and the Croatian Juraj Dalmatinac, and was completed in 1464. From the top of Minčeta tower, you can enjoy a stunning view of the town and surrounding areas.

CHURCH O F SAIN T B LAISE This church is a symbol of the city of Dubrovnik and its protector and patron saint. It stands at the centre of the Old Town. Each year the city celebrates St. Blaise’s Day on February 3, in festivities attended by the citizens of Dubrovnik and visitors from many cities across Europe.

d u b r o v n i k q u i n t e s s e n t i a l ly

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Dubrovnik Quintessentially EX P LORE Choose your own Dubrovnik adventure

Some of the products are Aqua Rosae, Aqua Rosmarini, Aqua Lavandulae, Gold Cream (wax and almond oil), cream of roses and rose oil, Rosemary Cream, Moisturizing cream with Almond, Wrinkle Proof cream (cocoa butter and bergamot oil), Lip Balm (wax and vanilla).

Walking the walls and enjoying the beach is always fun, but for a happening holiday packed with the best parties, bars and shops, you need some inside information. Let ALH Times be your guide to an oasis of chic, in a Dubrovnik you’ve never seen before.

B RING HOME SOME T HING S P ECIAL Unforgettable buys for everyone on your gift list

01 Dubrovnik Cable Car

Ride up to the top of Mount Srđ and enjoy, without a doubt, the best view of the Old Town, the Adriatic Sea, and nearby islands, along with a coffee or cocktail. Up here, even the rainiest day makes inspiring scenery.

Bajadera Bajadera is a a praline from fine nougat blended with almonds and hazelnuts, produced by largest Croatian confectionary company Kraš since 1923.

Inside tip Wait a bit later in the day, and avoid the morning crowds.

03 Pjaca Dubrovnik Green Market

02 The pharmacy of the Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor The pharmacy of the Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor in Dubrovnik is one of the inevitable components of every guide book or tour. How could it not be, when founded in 1317 along with the monastery, it is one of the oldest in this part of the world. (According to some, it is the third oldest, surpassed in age only by those in Baghdad and Padua). If measured solely by the continuous work, it is perhaps the oldest on the continent. In the beginning it was used only for the purposes of the monastery, but as the needs of the city expanded, so the pharmacy aided with the contributions of its citizens. It smelled of mint and sage and many other medicinal plants which the Franciscans used in preparing medicinal compounds. Their library holds quite a few pharmaceutical manuals with well-kept secret recipes and quite ordinary remedies. Among the manuscripts there are many formulas referring to elixirs that aimed to prolong youth, recipes for a good memory, but also those which, in their opinion, could preserve peace in marriage! Inside Tip It is less known that, the pharmacy still sells home-made, cold-pressed soaps and creams prepared of natural ingredients like olive, palm and almond oil, goat’s milk, lavender, rosemary, honey, lemon and crushed almond prepared according to 200-year-old recipes.

There has been much written about the Mediterranean diet extolling the benefits for the health and longevity of residents of the region. Certainly enjoy local cuisine while you are here. In addition to diverse offerings from local restaurants, take home some of Dubrovnik’s famous delicacies such as kotonjata (quince jelly), arancini (candied orange peel), caramelized almonds and dried figs. Taste seasonal cheese, olives, honey and Mediterranean spices or home-made fruit and flower liqueurs and brandies with herbs, all of which can be safely packed for your journey home. If you choose hand-made, cold-pressed soaps made exclusively of natural ingredients such as olive, palm- and almond oil, goat milk, essential oils, lavender or crushed almonds, they will give you the pleasure of natural care long after your vacation is over. One of the best places to pick up these natural souvenirs is the daily outdoor market on Gundulić square. The oldest market in Dubrovnik, set up in 1892, is located in the prominent, baroque square not far from the Rector’s Palace and Cathedral. Enjoy the smell of fresh local produce, listen to locals bargain and, perhaps, get a great bargain yourself, but head there early as the market closes up at noon. Inside tip Mantala – a traditional local sweet created from grape pulp leftover in wine production is a must try (see page 39)!

The Bajadera box has been a staple gift when visiting friends and remains a definite go-to souvenier if you wish to bring someone a tipical Croatian sweet. If you want more go with Kraš opt for cherry liqueur pralines Griotte, milk chocolate Dorina and Ki-Ki candies. You’ll get to taste them if you are staying in one of ALH hotels as ‘good night’ sweets.

05 C l a r a St o n e s C o r a l C o n c e pt St o r e Clara Stones is an extraordinary combination of passion for jewellery and Mediterranean heritage. Since ancient times red coral was known for its protective powers and natural beauty. According to Greek legend, coral was formed from Medusa’s blood that dripped into the sea and was instantly transformed into coral. Dubrovnik Republic recognized the value of Adriatic red coral hundreds of years ago and traded this precious material all over the world. Today, Clara Stones coral workshop is reviving the Adriatic coral manufacture following sustainable principles and centuries old traditions. Inside Tip You are invited to observe how the coral branches are being divided, clean, cut, polished and finally put into beautiful pieces of jewellery. Unique and luxurious, the fantasy world of Clara Stones is tastefully designed and handcrafted with top-quality corals, pearls and rare gems.

d u b r o v n i k q u i n t e s s e n t i a l ly

COLLEC T MEMORIES Be there, do that

06 D u b r o v n i k S u m m e r F e s t i va l The Opening Night Each year, July 10th officially marks the beginning of true summer in Dubrovnik. In addition to the extensive festival programme, don’t miss the legendary opening fireworks, as they light up the old town harbour. Inside tip Hotel Excelsior’s Abakus Piano Bar or Victoria Restaurant & Lounge make a prime location to enjoy the fireworks. But make sure to make a reservation at your Guest Relations desk.

07 C i ty C a f é (Gradska kavna) City Café or Gradska kavana remains Dubrovnik gentleman’s favorite gathering spot for more than 100 years. Originally called the Municipal Café, it opened in 1880s when the entrepreneur Luko Bonda, who was rebuilding the Town’s Hall and its adjoining theatre, found a room for café here as well. Since then it certainly experienced a golden age or two. Today, the prime terrace in the Old Town still warmly invites you to sip your morning coffee watching the city crowds ebb and flow the main street. inside Tip Wait for the moment of full hour when City Belltower’s Jacquemarts (bellstrikers), popularly known as Maro and Baro, strike their hammers announcing the time and sending hundreds of pigeons soaring in the air.

— Ad r i a t i c L u x u r y H o t e l s B l o g Bring Dubrovnik home with you! —

dubrovnik summer villas

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DUBROVNIK SUMMER v i l l a s

The Sorkočević summer villa in Lapad Owning a villa outside the crowded city centre still remains a dream of many - and it hasn’t changed much since the 14th century when members of the Dubrovnik nobility started to understand the benefits of spending summer months away from the city crowds. Some of these villas remain in private hands, some are owned by institutions, and quite a few languish uninhabited, the potential site of some ambitious future renovation project. Very few indeed are accessible to the public, rendering Dubrovnik’s villa culture an enduringly secretive, semi-hidden world.

SUMMER HOUSES O F RENAISSANCE D U B RO V NI K Translations of the Croatian terms ljetnikovac (summer house) or ladanjska kuća (country house) don’t quite convey how important these residences were to the life of the city. Indeed, this villa culture is just as important to the city’s heritage as its medieval walls or its monastery cloisters. These residences were used all year round, and very often became the centre of a family’s social life rather than simply a place of quiet retreat. They were frequently located near the family’s fruit orchards, vineyards and olive groves, so they played an economic role as well. The 16th century explosion of second homes led to changes in lifestyle and culture. It was at these villas that people would meet to talk about, literature, culture, the latest developments in business affairs or the arts, or attend parties at which new music or plays would be performed. The villas thus became important centres of artistic and literary life. The large and carefully laid out gardens were dedicated

to the leisure pursuits of noble families and their friends. The most knowledgeable individuals of that time - philosophers, poets, painters, artists, scientists, and politicians-gathered here to share and discuss their thoughts, ideas, interests, and discoveries. The villas themselves were frequently decorated with artwork which enhanced their cultural significance. Indeed, it wouldn’t be unfair to say that Dubrovnik’s cultural and scientific life took place in the villas outside the walls rather than inside the city itself. Most visitors to Dubrovnik know that the former citystate was a republic of nobles in which power resided in a tightly-knit group of aristocratic families. But where did these aristocratic families live? Where are their palaces? Although there is plenty of fine architecture within the city walls, especially when it comes to the former city-state’s governmental buildings (e.g. Sponza Palace, Rector’s Palace), the homes of the noble families tend to be hidden behind plain stone facades – private grandeur was rarely put on public display. Also, many of the palaces

of the noble families located within the city walls were damaged or destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667, and rebuilt with plainer facades. However, an aristocratic villa culture did exist outside the city walls, where Renaissance houses with walled gardens are still a prominent feature of the Dubrovnik landscape. It was in the fourteenth century that Dubrovnik’s wealthier families first started building second homes outside the city walls. The number of villas increased enormously in the 16th century, when it became the standard aspiration of noble families – and the wealthier non-noble families – to have a place outside the city. There are records of 29 noble families in Dubrovnik by the end of the 16th century, when the creation of country estates reached its peak. One of the villas we will introduce you with, is the Sorkočević villa on the southern side of Gruž harbour in Lapad, which now belongs to the Institute for Historical Sciences in Dubrovnik. Although it is not open to the public, this villa is certainly a part of Dubrovnik Renaissance history that deserves attention, as it is the best-preserved Renaissance summer house of 80 known summer houses throughout the entire Dubrovnik region.

T HE SUMER V ILLA O F P E T AR SOR K O Č E V I Ć (Pietro de Sorgo) The transitional Gothic-Renaissance style summer villa of Petar Sorkočević is particularly beautiful in its location, layout and opulence. Surrounded by a high crenelated wall, the villa may resemble a castle – although it belongs to an era when Dubrovnik’s borders were expanding and there was no longer any real fear of sea-borne invaders. It was built in 1521 by Petar Sorkočević, a member of one of the greatest noble families, Sorgo, also known as Sorkočević. They served four times as Rectors of the city and gained wealth and prominence among the aristocracy of Dubrovnik through their trade in salt, wine, oil, fabrics and leather.

dubrovnik summer villas

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The other side of the grand hall opens onto another, semi-enclosed loggia which leads to the landscaped back garden and family chapel. The villa’s chapel houses the biggest statue of Dubrovnik’s patron St Blaise. Dating from the 15th century, it was carved in 1464 the by prominent Dalmatian sculptor Juraj Dalmatinac, architect of the UNESCO-listed Šibenik Cathedral. The summerhouse was intended for leisure and fun, but it was also used for dances, theatre performances and literary evenings.

Located along the waterfront, protected by high stone walls, the villa’s construction reflected the trends that prevailed in Renaissance Italy. The villa can be accessed through the southern Renaissance style gate on whose lattice is engraved the inscription PAX HVIC DOMVI, which invokes peace in the house. The northern gate opens on an enchanting view of the magnificent garden and fish pond. In several places one can notice the carved coat of arms of the Sorkočević family with the initials of Petar Sorkočević ‘P.S.’

The main building consists of a central hall surrounded by four rooms, and an annex leading down to the waterfront boat house. Right above the boat house is the first floor with an open loggia from which a lovely view extends over the Bay of Gruž, the landscaped garden and the open sky. Inside, the ambience of the unique interior of each room tells its own story.

The extent of the damage that the villa suffered in the devastating earthquake that struck Dubrovnik on April 6, 1667 is not known. Many of the Sorgo family members ended up on the list of noble casualties; at least 18 of them perished in the disaster. It was refurbished and restored to its full glory in the 18th century, when the villa was taken into possession by the Đurđević family. In the first half of the 19th century it survived the fall of the Dubrovnik Republic when Napoleon’s military entered the city. In 1949 the summer villa was given to the Institute for Historical Sciences (today the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts) whereby it was restored in the early 1950’s. So, we can proudly say that Petar Sorkočević’s summer villa is today the place where the history of Dubrovnik and the Dubrovnik Republic is being studied.

One of those rooms is the so-called Neptune’s Hall with a wooden ceiling whose beams and boards are decorated with drawing symbolizing Neptune’s life, abundant with the joy of mermaids and dolphins, spiral motifs and flowers. There is also a small museum collection relating to the history of Dubrovnik and a lovely old library, rich in archival collections (the Ivo Bizzara Library, the Petar Hektorović Archives, etc.). Within the villa’s walls there is a garden divided into box-hedge quadrants, with pergolas overhead for shaded strolling, and a fishpond connected by a small channel to the seafront outside, allowing fish to freely swim from the fishpond into the sea and back.

IN T ERES T ING FAC T S

— Perhaps the only existing trace of the primitively made grapevine pergolas is a series of holes in the fencing wall of the back garden belonging to Petar Sorkočević. — There is a shell-shaped fountain encircled by a Gothic keel arch with a flower at the top in Petar Sorkočević’s villa on the shores of Lapad. It is situated in the water-cistern wall under the terrace-belvedere. The arch is supported by two small lions’ heads. When an iron handle was pulled from the head of the lion, water would flow from the central part of the niche into the beautifully carved semi-circular shell which served as a washbasin. Moved by the tides, the sea flowed in and out of the pools under the border wall, connecting the sea to the garden space. A spacious pool in the shape of a parallelogram, a large water mirror which reflected the buildings and surrounding garden, was built in some country house complexes at the lowest level of the garden in front of the villa.

b e s t d u b r o v n i k i n s ta m o m e n t s

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B e s t D u b r o v n i k I n s ta m o m e n t s

Kupjerta

kupjerta cro. an old colloquial word for Dubrovnik’s distinctive red-tiled roofs

The distinctive red roof tiles of the Old Town are sure to catch your eye, particularly from the vantage point of the city walls. From the viewpoint on the ramparts, the harmonious architecture of Dubrovnik is distinct; every single building in the old city is topped with clay roof tiles, red and honey rooftops that glitter in contrast with the turquoise sea.

The average life span of a terracotta-tiled roof is about one hundred years, but it varies depending on exposure to the sun, wind and water. As a result, over time the weather creates a gorgeous patchwork of colours and shades. In case of Dubrovnik, the patchwork of roofs has been greatly influenced by the bombing damage inflicted during the Homeland War of 1991 and 1992. In all, 382 residential structures and 29 public buildings were damaged. This represented 86 percent of the area within the city walls.

These distinctive roof tiles are known as ‘kupe kanalice’. They were hand-manufactured in Kupari, a small village just outside Dubrovnik, up until 1925. This architectural harmony dates back all the way to the municipal building codes established in 1272. Despite changing architectural trends, major earthquakes, wars and most of all, time, the streets, houses, and churches are much the same as they were centuries ago - built of strong limestone with the same terracotta and light red roofing tiles. The medieval building codes applied to all. Especially during the rebuilding following the great earthquake of 1667, aristocratic residences and most public buildings were unadorned, and other important buildings were rendered impressive through perspective and not size, thus creating an outstanding architectural ensemble of great cohesion.

Their shape was moulded by stretching wet clay over the worker’s upper thigh, and later dried in the oven. This meant that they varied slightly in width, but the length mostly remained the same - 465 mm (18.30 inches).

After the armed conflict, the city of Dubrovnik was the focus of a major restoration programme coordinated by UNESCO. During the restoration process, finding a similar colour of the famed red rooftops was a difficult task, which lead Dubrovnik Conservation office all the way to terra cotta factories of Toulouse, France. Today, glittering in the sunlight, these distinctive tiles remain one of the most memorable features of Dubrovnik Old town, especially photogenic in the early mornings.

life according to kawa

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I n t r o d u c i n g W o n d e r f u l T h i n g s M a d e b y C r o at i a n s

Life according to Kawa — IN T ERIOR & HOUSE — You’ll find a wonderful mix of unique and original items that are certain to look great in your home. From furniture by local designers (Artisan furniture is available internationally so ask for a free catalog) to quirky canned illustrated dioramas by Croatian actor Vladimir Tintor.

A converted garage that sheltered locals during the war isn’t where you might expect to find our favourite shop in Dubrovnik. But with its convenient central location, breezy views of the Old Town, and with the help of a talented young architect from Sarajevo (Armin Mesic, fo4a. ba), the space was reimagined by Jonathan and Sanja Kawaguchi into a modern and airy boutique showcasing the very best from local Croatian designers and artisans.

— ACCESSORIES — T HE NEIGH B OURHOO D Just outside Ploce Gate, and minutes from Dubrovnik’s main street and city beach, Life According to Kawa is surrounded by fine Mediterranean eateries, world-class Japanese fusion cuisine, a traditional stone masonry, a Gin bar, Asian street food, and Cogito Coffee.

*** What to Take Home: Wood bowls made from thousands year old reclaimed oak, vintage style glassware decorative plates; hand-drawn pillows of your favourite celeb.

From must-have handbags hand-stitched from top quality Italian leather to wooden phone cases, watches, sunglasses, backpacks, bowties, suspenders, and wallets, you’ll have plenty of opportunity to pick up some unique accessories to compliment your wardrobe. *** What to Take Home: Contemporary handmade ties by Isola; Sheriff & Cherry sunglasses; leather wallets; Mucca Handbags.

WHA T T O B U Y Forget tacky souvenirs and tourist tchotchkes. Beautiful homeware, small-batch design, traditional treats, ceramics, craft beer, wine, hand-roasted coffee, local delicacies, souvenirs, cosmetics, books, handbags, shoes, sunglasses, jewelry, fashion, and artisanal ice cream.

— CLO T HING — Unique one-off pieces and a rotating selection of tunics, dresses & tops from both indie and established Croatian designers. We love the limited edition cotton t-shirts and streetwear.

— K I T CHEN — You’ll find plenty of great gifts for you and your favourite foodie friends. From freshly ground single origin and select coffee blends, gorgeous recipe books created by local chefs, hand-crafted leather aprons, olive wood utensils & serving trays, to a fine selection of world famous Croatian olive oils, Istrian truffles, salts, and other goodies. *** What to Take Home: Gold Award-winning Olive Oil by Perdisacca; anything made of local olive wood; salt; espresso cups.

*** What to Take Home: Happy Cevapi & GoT shirts will have strangers smiling at you the world over; Levin Coco; Fasada

— KID STUFF — Lavender dolls and shadow puppets. Handmade fairies and princesses. Dinosaur cutouts and lollipops. Parents will love the KAWA KIDS adventure packs with colouring maps of kid friendly activities, birdseed, and other fun surprises! *** What to Take Home: KAWA KIDS Adventure Packs; T-shirts; Dinosaurs.

life according to kawa

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— CRA F T B EER — KAWA is well stocked with Croatian craft beer. Sip a cold beverage while shopping or mix and match a sixpack to take back to enjoy on your balcony. *** What to Take Home: Go local with Dubrovnik Beer Company; The Garden Brewery does a nice sour or milkshake IPA; Buzdovan Croatian apple cider.

— J EWELR Y — From playful and fun jewelry to clean modern necklaces. Silver filigree, whimsical designs created by a local biologist, and nautical bracelets.

— F A B ULOUSL Y K I T SCH —

*** What to Take Home: Iva Stojkovic; Vicious Delicious; Vitrum in Fabula; Zizou.

In such a beautiful and well-curated shop, you might think there isn’t room for the fabulously kitsch. But you would be wrong. This place has a wonderful albeit small selection of baubles and decorative knick knacks.

— WINE & LI Q UOR —

— F OO D — Croatia is well known for its olive oils, salt, and truffles but it’d be a shame to miss out on the other wonderful artisanal products available at KAWA. Our favourites include candied orange peels, hot sauces, local honey, smoked sea salt, vegan & gluten free energy bars, natural ice cream, and hand-made chocolate!

Sommelier, die-hard Star Wars fan, & bespoke foodie & wine tour leader, Bozidar Jukic (www.insiderholidays.eu) selected his favourite, hard to find, local wines for KAWA. Grab a bottle of chilled rose for your balcony or next beach picnic (piknikdubrovnik. com). Relax with a G&T made from Dubrovnik Republic craft gin produced using 100% Dalmatian botanicals (www.dubrovnik-republic.com). *** What to Take Home: Crvik wine; Mashtel višnjevac or travarica; Teranino red wine liqueur; Dubrovnik Republic Gin.

K AWA is a wonderfully curated shop with a relaxed low-key atmosphere, jaw-dropping views, and very helpful and friendly staff. Don’t miss out and be sure to visit. If for nothing else, you’ll experience more of what Croatia has to offer. wor k i ng hou r s 9:00 - 00:00 (Season) 12:00 - 20:00 (Offseason) Payment cash, credit card E info@kawa.life www.facebook.com/KAWA.LIFE8 www.instagram.com/kawa.dubrovnik

r u đ ne ar s bl o šv ktoevmi će

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A GREAT UNIVERSAL MIND Incisive in thought, bold in spirit, and independent in judgement, Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the greatest universal minds of the 18th century and far ahead of his time compared to others. He was born in Dubrovnik 18 May 1711, and has left an indelible mark on science in Croatia and the world.

Ruđer Bošković (1711 — 1787)

Bošković was a multidisciplinary scientist: an astronomer, geodesist, physicist, mathematician, philosopher, hydrographer, priest, archaeologist, architect, diplomat and poet. His most significant work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry, astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. He was exceptionally prolific, publishing a great body of work that laid the foundations for modern science during his career, which spanned 50 years and was mainly spent in Milan, Paris and Rome. He was a member of the Scientiarum et Artium Institutum atque Academia in Bologna (1746), a corresponding member of the Paris Academy of Sciences (1748), an honorary member of the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St. Petersburg (1760) and a member of the Royal Society of London (1761). Bošković left his native Dubrovnik at an early age after completing his elementary education at the Jesuit school ‘Collegium Ragusinum.’ He went to Rome, again to study with the Jesuits. He took the vow and entered the order as a priest until the order was suppressed in 1773. Even though he was a priest, he was a follower of Copernicus’ system, but was also the one to propose the repair of the cupola of St Peter’s in Rome. He returned to Dubrovnik only once in his lifetime, for a holiday in 1747, although he kept in regular contact with his sister Anica and his

brother Božo. He wrote regularly to them and undertook diplomatic duties on behalf of the city of Dubrovnik. Ruđer lived a long, fruitful life. At the age of 76, this great Croatian scientist died of pneumonia on February 13, 1787 in Milan. He was buried in the church of Santa Maria Podone.

a n outsta nding legacy

There are so many accomplishments that this remarkable man left us in legacy during his life, that it would probably take a whole book to describe the life of this scientific enthusiast. Here, we will point out just a few of his most important accomplishments

a stronom y • He was one of the first modern Croatian scientists who tried to interpret the moon and solar eclipse. • He pioneered the method for computing the parabolic orbit of a comet from three close observations and gave the first geometric procedure for determining the equator of a rotating planet. • He was the founder of the Brera Astronomical Observatory near Milan. • He published five books of astronomy called ‘Opera pertinentia ad opticam et astronomiam’ (1785.)

geodesy a nd a rchitectur e • He was the first to determine the irregular shape of the Earth, which was also confirmed by J.B. Listing naming the Earth form ‘a geoid’.

ruđer bošković

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• According to Pope Benedict’s order, Ruđer made a new detailed map of the Papal States in the period between 1750 and 1752. • At the request of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, Bošković solved the problem of the stability of the Royal Library (now the National Library) in Vienna. • The highly delicate task of repairing cracks in the cupola of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican was entrusted to Bošković, confirming that he was regarded as a leading European authority in static computations and civil engineering.

ph ysics • theory of the atom - He can be considered a forerunner of relativity theory. He criticized Newton’s understanding of absolute space and time and developed the first coherent description of atomic theory in his masterpiece ‘Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis’. It is one of the great attempts to understand the structure of the universe in a single idea which later linked him to Einstein’s theory of relativity. • theory of structure of matter - The scientific work of Ruđer Bošković has encompassed many areas, but its contribution to understanding the theory of forces and structure of matter anticipated modern physics, making him a scientist two centuries ahead of his time. The forces that work between them are today represented by a curve, which is called Bošković’s curve.

m at h e m at ic s • He came up with four fundamental formulas of differential trigonometry and may be regarded as the ‘forerunner of the fractal theory’, the mathematical basis of the theory of deterministic chaos.

o pt i c s • He invented the circular micro meter and devised an instrument for measuring the refraction and dispersion of light – the ‘vitrometro’. • He designed the optical prism with a variable angle (Bošković’s prism) and developed the first satisfactory theory of luminescence.

claim was later confirmed by the excavations done by Heinrich Schliemann.

medicine • In neurology, he provided an interpretation of the source of phantom pain which reflects the modern interpretation.

• He was a diplomat of the Dubrovnik Republic in addition to his scientific activities and managed to save Dubrovnik from a Russian attack. Though he returned to his hometown only once, in 1747, all his life, Bošković stayed in constant contact with his homeland acting in the interests of his native city.

• He is known for his literary work since he was compared with Titus Lucretius Carus (a Roman poet and philosopher). His poems were devoted to Pope Benedict XIV, the emperor Marija Teresa, cardinals, ministers, and other church and secular dignitaries. His bestknown poem was ‘Virgo sine labe concepta’ (A Virgin without sin). He dedicated a poem laying out his own theory on solar and lunar eclipses in Latin verse to the Royal Society – De Solis ac Lunae defectibus.

Did you know? Today the name Bošković is found on maps of the moon since a rather large lunar crater was named in his honour.

... A great number of many other schools, institutions, streets and squares bear Bošković’s name, as is the Ruđer Bošković multidisciplinary research institute in Zagreb, the Astronomical Society in Belgrade, the Parish Grammar School in Dubrovnik and many others. His name and portrait have appeared on many post stamps worldwide.

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Sciences, a member of the Royal Society in London and a professor at many European universities.

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The scientist Nikola Tesla claimed that Einstein’s theory of relativity was the creation of Bošković.

... His image appeared on all banknotes issued in 1991 when Croatia gained its independence. The currency was known as the Croatian Dinar.

His legacy has been preserved in the special Boscovich Archives in the Rare Books library at the University of California in Berkeley.

... During his life, Bošković published more than 75 books of capital works from mathematics, mechanics, astronomy, optics, philosophy and literature.

A teenage miracle - from the age of fifteen he wrote scientific discussions from mathematics, physics and astronomy, so he gained a reputation very early as an especially gifted scientist. He published his first observation of sunspots ‘De maculis solaribus’ as a twenty-two-year-old, presenting two new methods for her determining rotation elements of the Sun around its axis.

... • At the initiative of the Royal Society of London, of which he was a member, in 1761, he went to Constantinople to observe the passing of Venus in front of the sun. When he found himself in the vicinity of the ancient Troy, on the coast of Malesia, he took advantage of the opportunity and began exploring the ruins. His research has refuted the theory that Troy was located along the coast of Anatolia opposite Tenedos island (an ancient name for the Turkish island of Bozcaada). The legitimacy of his

diplom acy

l i t e r at u r e

...

a rch a eology

Because of his success in solving the dispute over the border waters between the Republic of Lucca and Austrian Tuscany, Bošković was awarded a title of nobility (1757).

... He was a member of the Scientiarum et Artium Institutum atque Academia in Bologna, an honorary member of the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St Petersburg, a member of Accademia dell’Arcadia (Roman literary society), a corresponding member of the French Royal Academy of

... Dubrovnik dedicated one of its most important squares to Ruđer Bošković. The square is located in the highest spot in the city, nestled in front of the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius and next to the Jesuit Collegium Ragusinum where he himself was educated.

“

Little is what we know, so much we do not know.

”

d u b r o v n i k a s a s ta g e

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I t i s t h e e n d o f a n e r a . W i n t e r h a s c o m e … o r n o t?

#GoT — Bye to King’s Landing As we are writing this, Game of Thrones season eight is in its final polishing stage before the grand finale airing in April and May of 2019. And HBO has done a great job keeping a lid on things for the final season of this blockbuster hit series, which is impressive considering the scale of the production this time around.

Besides knowing how some of the cast members take their morning coffe (wink), we at ALH also get the chance to see some of the live action, as our Villa Sheherezade was a filming spot in Season 5, used as Tyrion Lannisters’ safe heaven.

But we do know that the production crew returned to Dubrovnik this past February, one last time to have the city play the role of King’s Landing. It seemed only natural … at least for the people in Dubrovnik (who are a little biased on this matter).

And from our biased perspective, George R.R. Martin himself couldn’t have dreamt up a better real-life location for the seat of power in Game of Thrones than Dubrovnik. Though Dubrovnik was not the first choice for filming King’s Landing – it was Malta in Season 1, ever since Season 2 the city has become the capital of Westeros, giving the series its signature look. Almost every winding street, hidden alley, or grand building in Dubrovnik has popped up in an exterior shot somewhere or somehow. And now the city is not just a location, but virtually the nucleus of the show. Every powerful character has had a tryst with King’s Landing as dramatic scenes were filmed here. Dragons, werewolves, and white walkers in an historical drama are not everyone’s cup of tea for Sunday night TV, but Dubrovnik audiences curiously dove in. There was a great chance that we could spot our cousins or colleagues in the frame, as local residents often appeared as extras on the show.

Photos are screenshots from the actual series

“

To find the full-on, immaculately preserved, medieval walled city that looks uncannily like King’s Landing, where the bulk of our show is set — that was, in and of itself, just such an amazing find. SER I E S C O - CR E ATOR D.B. W EI S S

”

It was interesting for locals to see how the streets we pass every day were transformed into settings for atonement scenes, battlegrounds, council meetings and weddings. The filming in the first couple of seasons was usually done in September. It required a large local support team as most of the equipment, props and costumes had to be carried by hand around the various parts of the old city (remember the stairs?!). Additionally, during a still very busy period of the tourist season, parts of the city had to be closed off for filming, which proved to be an even more challenging task. But it was so worth it! (Again, we might be biased about this). Locations like the island of Lokrum, Minčeta fortress, the Jesuit Church staircase, Pile harbour and the fort of St. Lawrence (Lovrijenac) made great contributions to the stone and the vibe of King’s Landing, enriching viewers’ experience of an already heart-stopping show. And today GOT fans get to visit and recognise the actual filming locations. In addition to becoming a cultural phenomenon on global scale, GoT brought an ever-growing number of fans to Dubrovnik on a kind of pop culture pilgrimage. With it came guided tours, specialized souvenir shops, and throne photo rooms. And that is all fine with the residents of Dubrovnik – as long as you remember that Dubrovnik is much more than just a Game of Thrones filming location, as the history of the city has stories which are as amazing as the ones told by George R. R. Martin. #GoT — Bye, it has been our pleasure to be your hosts!

d u b r o v n i k a s a s t a gnea s/ l o f av s thei m o ne

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These are the locations a true G o T fa n s hou l d no t m i s s — 01 Lovrijenac Fortress Lovrijenac Fort was the scene for the Red Keep, and the bay outside its walls was used as the setting for the sea battle at Blackwater when Stannis Baratheon tried to attack King’s Landing, or a place where princess Marcela was sent off to Dorn.

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— 02 The City Walls The City Walls are featured in many Game of Thrones scenes, from Cersei’s power walks to Tyrion’s brooding moments by the Narrow Sea.

— 03 St. Dominic Street

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— yv e s s a i n t l a u r e n t —

— givenchy —

Located near the monastery and Dominican church, in the heart of the Old City. The narrow alleys of this part of town were heavily used in most of the market scenes in King’s Landing, from Season 2 onwards.

— 04 Park Gradac Setting of the Purple Wedding between Margaery Tyrell and King Joffrey Baratheon. Minčeta Tower - the highest point in Dubrovnik. Other than in wide-shots, this was actually used specifically for the exterior and steps of the House of the Undying in Quarth, not King’s Landing.

— 05 Belvedere Atrium

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Location of the trial by combat between Oberyn Martell and Gregor Clegane. The Belvedere was actually an old hotel built in the 1980s: it was damaged and looted by Yugoslav forces who attacked Dubrovnik from the south during Croatia’s war for independence and left abandoned for over twenty years.

— 06 Lokrum island Lokrum was used for exterior scenes, and as a setting for the city of Quarth.

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— 07 Trsteno Arboretum This arboretum, located near Dubrovnik, was used as the coastal gardens of King’s Landing where Tyrion and Varis plan their schemes and deceptions, and its vista overlooking the sea was a setting for Lady Olenna and Margarey Tyrell’s power lunch. Photos are screenshots from the actual series

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One of the oldest and most prestigious European festivals, a member of the European Festivals Association since 1956, will present its numerous domestic and international audiences with over 80 theatre, music, ballet, film, folklore and other performances during 47 days of its big, seventieth anniversary edition in the following season. The conceptual guideline of the seventieth Dubrovnik Summer Festival is based on the slogan City Myths. The programme brings together best Croatian artists and top performances by international artists, it disintegrates the mythology of the European cultural heritage, the myths of Dubrovnik and the myths of the Festival, at the same time questioning the past and the future of site-specific performance practices and nurturing the relationship between tradition and modernity.

d u b r o v n i k s u m m e r f e s t i va l

Dubrovnik Summer Festival

OPENING CEREMONY OF THE 70 th FESTIVAL Wed, 10 July, 21:00 In Front of St Blaise’s Church — GALA CONCERT Thu, 11 July, 21:30 In front of St. Blaise’s Church Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphony No. 9 in D Minor, Op. 125 Hannover’s State Opera Orchestra Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir Ivan Repušić, conductor Evelin Novak, soprano Khatuna Mikaberidze, mezzo-soprano Tomislav Mužek, tenor Tobias Schabel, bass-baritone — BUNIĆ-KABOGA SUMMER VILLA Fri, 12 July, 21:30 Franz Schubert: Die Winterreise D 911 Krešimir Stražanac, bass-baritone Danijel Detoni, piano — ROSAS: A Love Supreme Sat, 13 July, 21:30 Revelin fort terrace Salva Sanchis, Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker, choreographers —

10 J u ly — 2 5 August

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ZAGREB SOLOISTS Sun, 14 July, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Martina Filjak, piano — FESTIVAL DRAMA ENSEMBLE 16, 17, 18 July, 21:30 University of Dubrovnik Campus Park Ranko Marinković: Under The Balconies Dario Harjaček, director Subtitled in English — MUSIC OF DUBROVNIK SUMMER VILLAS Thu, 18 July, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Seven symphonies and chamber music of Luka Sorkočević — DUBROVNIK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Sat, 20 July, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Copland, Hummel, Kodály, Ravel Franz Anton Krager, conductor Håkan Hardenberger, trumpet — CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE ZAGREB 21, 22 July, 21:30 Gradac Park Vjekoslav Majer - Krešo Golik - Rene

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u b r o v n i k s u m m e r f e s t i va l

Medvešek: One Song A Day Takes Mischief Away Rene Medvešek, director — AVISHAI COHEN TRIO Tue, 23 July, 21:30 Revelin Fort Terrace — CROATIAN RADIO AND TELEVISION CHOIR Thu, 25 July, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium — Festival Drama Ensemble 27, 28, 29, 30 and 31 July, 21:30 Lovrjenac Fort : : premiere : : William Shakespeare: Hamlet Paolo Magelli, director Subtitled in English — ESPERANZA ENSEMBLE Tue, 30 July, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium — ZAGREB QUARTET Fri, 2 August, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Ana Vidović, guitar — MARIINSKY THEATRE 4, 5 August, 21:30 Gradac Park The Four Seasons — ballet in two acts Ilija Živoj, choreographer Music by Max Richter based on Vivaldi —

Festival Drama Ensemble 8, 9, 10 August, 20:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium : : premiere : : Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: The Little Prince Ivan Josip Skender, composer and conductor Hrvoje Korbar, director — DUBROVNIK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Mon, 12 August, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Ivo Lipanović, conductor Katarina Kutnar, violin —

concert Sun, 18 August, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Ivo Pogorelich, piano — Festival Drama Ensemble 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24 August, 20:30 tba : : premiere : : Ivo Vojnović: Geranium Marina Pejnović, director — closing concert Sun, 25 August, 22:00 In front of St Blaise’s Church Croatian Radio and Television Symphony Orchestra Enrico Dindo, conductor Simone Rubino, percussion * Programme subject to alteration *

Dubrovnik Summer Festival Od Sigurate 1, 20 00Dubrovnik concert Tue, 6 August, 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium Yuja Wang, piano Andreas Ottensamer, clarinet —

web & tickets online: www.dubrovnik-festival.hr FACEBOOK: dubrovnik.festival MAIL: info@dubrovnik-festival.hr TEL: +385 (0)20 326 100

naslov teme

maskerons

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The Dubrovnik Maskeron — a good luck gargoyle As you walk around the city, there is one detail that we don’t want you to miss, a detail that can bring fun, moments to remember, and who knows – maybe luck in love. We bring you the story of the legendary artworks – Maskerons, gargoyle-like faces dating back from the days of the Dubrovnik Republic.

From that time onwards, there have been thousands of men and women, locals and visitors, young and old who tried their luck jumping on the Maskeron head hoping to find good luck or just wanted to dare the attempt to succeed in this mission. If you look closer you will notice that the Maskeron’s top surface is completely polished like marble from thousands of balancing attempts, while the wall above noticeably differs in colour from the touch of a thousand hands trying not to fall.

As you walk through the streets of the Old Town, you can’t help noticing faces in the crowds all around you. But there are some special faces you might not notice if you don’t know where to look. Peering out from corners and alleys, the historic carved stone faces known as Dubrovnik Maskeron are part of the living history that makes Old Town such a unique experience. Of all the Maskeron gargoyle faces in town, the most famous is the one along the Stradun that protrudes from the front wall of the 14th century Franciscan monastery.

MAS K ERON The name ‘Maskeron’ comes from the word Mascherone, a large mask of a grotesque animal or human form. In Dubrovnik, Maskeron is the term used for a stone ornament, actually a gargoyle head shaped as an awl, placed on a facade of a building. Each is different in its own way and represents a special piece of artistic work. The Maskeron was most commonly placed at the ends of gutters that drained water from the roofs of the buildings through pipes out to the street, so that rainwater would spray out from the gargoyle’s ‘ mouth. You can find these masks on several historic buildings around the City and

on the fountains. (There are 16 on the large Onofrio fountain, still in use, just inside the Old Town’s Pile Gate, pouring out water that many still drink today.) However, many of them are hidden in the side streets, such as the famous Maskeron on the church of St. Blaise. However, the most legendary Maskeron and one of the greatest attractions in the city is the one just next to the entrance to the Franciscan monastery. It is almost impossible to miss it since, as soon as you enter the Old Town from the Pile Gate to your left, you may see people trying to take a running jump at the wall, in front of the Franciscan Monastery. If you look carefully you will spot a strange gargoyle head protruding from a stone wall. The head stands half a meter above the ground, sticking out few centimetres.

So next time you come to Stradun, we dare you to try your luck and climb on the Maskeron’s head. Who knows, maybe luck will find your way. Is it a legend or not we will never know, but nevertheless it’s definitely fun and worth a try.

You might ask yourself, why is this climbing ritual so special and why does everyone want to try it?

T HE LEGEN D Well, like most of the legends, it all has to do with love. Legend says that there was a young man who couldn’t find luck in love. As he prayed in the monastery, he made a vow that if he succeeded to hop onto the Maskeron’s head, keep his balance and take off and put on his shirt while still standing facing the wall, luck in love would find him and he would win his darling’s heart. After many attempts, he finally managed to do this and found his love.

Inside tip If you want to try it, but still don’t want so many people to stare at you, come in the night hours when visibility is not too high… and one more thing…. the easiest way to do it is barefoot, and facing towards the wall. Good luck!

orlando

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A K n i g h t a n d A s y m b o l o f D u b r o v n i k ’s f r e e d o m

Orlando One of Dubrovnik’s best-known and beloved landmarks is Orlando’s Column, a statue carved into the column in the very heart of the Old Town, in the centre of Luža Square right in front of St Blaise’s Church. This medieval warrior in arms bearing a sword and shield stands at attention for every passer-by on its northern side.

The idea for Orlando’s column was born in 1417, and its construction started two years later. It was built by the local sculptor Antun Dubrovčanin and Italian master sculptor Bonino di Jacopo from Milan. It is the oldest preserved public sculpture in Dubrovnik. This year we mark as the Year of Orlando – 600 years have gone by while this knight still proudly stands and reminds us of our freedom. The celebration will include many events throughout the year, so make sure to look for special events which will be held in honour of Dubrovnik freedom and its symbol – Orlando.

A S Y M B OL O F T HE F REE D OM AN D IN D E P EN D ENCE O F D U B RO V NI K Orlando, also known as Roland, was the 8th century knight who became a legend, through the Medieval epic poem Chanson de Roland. Although statues of Orlando were erected mainly in German cities, the legend about him was brought to Dubrovnik in the 15th century, probably by Hungarian and Bohemian King Sigismund, a patron of the Dubrovnik Republic. According to legend, Roland saved Dubrovnik in the 9th century, after a 15-month siege by the Saracens who were defeated in battle near the Island of Lokrum. In gratitude for saving the city, the citizens of Dubrovnik gave Orlando a central place in their public life and erected the 5.17 metre column in the most prominent city square in front of the St. Blasius church. From then on, it has stood as a symbol of Dubrovnik’s sovereignty and freedom amid hostile neighbouring powers. The real truth about the orientation of the Orlando’s statue was that to avoid negative connotations. Originally, the real Orlando, also known as Roland, was French and was facing the East (about 5 metres from his current location today). It was used as a symbol of a city under protection of the Hungarian-Croatian King Sigismund. At that time, it was common for the distant cities of the Hanseatic League to erect similar stone statues symbolizing the alliance and protection with the Hungarian-Croatian kingdom. At the same time, Venice had erected its own symbols in the form of winged lions on the east Adriatic coast, so

Dubrovnik wanted to distance itself in a symbolic manner from its former conqueror. It was precisely thanks to the Hungarians, i.e. the Hungarian King Louis I who defeated Venice and signed the Treaty of Zadar in 1358, that Dubrovnik gained its independence. By signing the Treaty, the King provided Dubrovnik with his protection, but also its own independence. With the end of the Dubrovnik Republic at the Vienna Congress in 1815, Orlando lost its symbolic value, so it remained as a reminder of the former independence of Dubrovnik. In 1825 Orlando’s column faced difficult times. It was toppled by a strong gust of wind, so the Habsburgs removed the column and placed it in the cellar of the Rector’s Palace.

orlando

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However, after many demands from the citizens, finally in 1878, Orlando was returned to its position in front of St. Blaise’s Church but this time it was placed in a different orientation, now facing North instead of East. The white flag of the Dubrovnik Republic with the image of St. Blaise and his initials SB was flown from the top of Orlando’s Column until the abolition of the Republic in 1808. Today you’ll see the white flag ‘Libertas’ (freedom) symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence.

A COLUMN WI T H MAN Y P UR P OSES Besides representing the most important secular symbol of the Dubrovnik Republic (also known as Ragusa) Orlando’s Column played a huge role in daily life of the Dubrovnik Republic. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent is still the political ‘heart’ of the city. It was used as the city’s Pillar of Shame, the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments, and convicted criminals were tied to the pillar, in order to remain in the same position for several hours; exposed to the public ridicule, beaten, and tortured. Many people actually died in this public spot, which warned people what would happen if they were disobedient. Particularly brutal were punishments for conspirators. Public proclamations were usually made from the top of the column and it was also a place where notices and important news were put or announced. The top of the column also served as a place on which the Ragusan flag was raised. 600 years have passed, but even today, Orlando’s Column still plays an important role and is a centre piece for many events for the citizens of Dubrovnik. Since the foundation of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival in 1950, Orlando’s column is a focal point every year from July 10 to August 25, hosting the opening and closing ceremonies of Dubrovnik Summer Festival. At these ceremonies, the Festival flag with symbolic inscription ‘Libertas’ is raised on the Column’s flag-pole as the crowd sings the Dubrovnik hymn – Ode to Liberty. Apart from that, the column is also used in everyday life as a popular meeting point for tourists and locals.

Inside tip

If you pass by Orlando’s column, stop for a moment to measure your own elbow and compare it with Orlando’s, using the measure line near the bottom of the sculpture, at the knight’s feet.

Facts

orlando’s column

fa c t n o . 0 1 — was erected 600 years ago in 1419 fa c t n o . 0 2 — served as a place for the flag

T HE D U B RO V NI K EL B OW – A UNI Q UE UNI T O F LENG T H You are probably aware by now, that the Dubrovnik Republic was known for its innovation and forward-thinking mentality. As an independent city-state, Dubrovnik had its own rectors, statute, and laws, so it’s not surprising that it also had its own system of measurement. Orlando served many different purposes, but one of the most interesting things is that the right arm of Orlando’s statue was used as the standard unit of measure of the Dubrovnik Republic. The unit of measurement was named ‘lakat’ – cubit or elbow. It measured 51.2 cm from Orlando’s hand (end of the fingers) to the elbow and served as a standard for trading fabric.

fa c t n o . 0 3 — was used as a public pillar of shame and punishment fa c t n o . 0 4 — was a place where laws and government decisions were proclaimed fa c t n o . 0 5 — was used as the standard length measurement (lakat) fa c t n o . 0 6 — is still the focal point for the opening and closing ceremonies of the Dubrovnik summer festival fa c t n o . 0 7 — is a symbol of Dubrovnik’s independence and sovereignty

maestral — nw wind

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Maestral — a friendly northwest wind

That light summer breeze in your hair that follows you around the Adriatic is friendly summer wind called Maestral. G e t t o k n o w t h e Ad r i a t i c w i n d s When sailing along the Adriatic coast and around Dubrovnik, you will encounter three main types of wind: Bura (a north-east wind), Jugo (a south-east wind) and Maestral (a north-west wind, also known as the great windsurfing and sailing summer wind which acts as a natural air cooler on warm summer afternoons). Tramuntana (a north wind) and the east wind Levanat are also common here. Those winds can reach storm strength

while other side winds blow mostly moderately. In additional, rarer wind currents such as Lebić (southwest wind) and Oštro (south wind) appear infrequently. Each of these Adriatic currents is specific in its own way. Anyone who is sailing needs to know how to recognize them in order to take advantage of their energy, or if needed, to react on time and to move swiftly to a safe harbour.

Maestral is a benevolent and friendly summer wind, adored by the leisure sailors. In this edition, we will give here special attention to one of our favourite winds – Maestral. This wind appears almost daily in summer due to the differences in temperature between the mainland and sea. It is fairly frequent from spring to autumn and strongest in July and August during beautiful and stable weather. Maestral usually starts blowing around 9 or 10 in the morning, reaches its highest strength around 2 in the afternoon and gradually fades at sunset. It rarely blows for more than three days. The signs of Maestral are white cumulus clouds over the islands and the coastal mountains. Maestral brings smooth waves perfect for sailing until the sunset.

The most favourable conditions for sailing in the Adriatic Sea are from mid-June to mid-October when steady weather conditions allow even those with little experience to enjoy sea adventures.

If you find yourself in Dubrovnik during these months, and you want to find a perfect yacht or a sailboat, stop by at ACI Marina Dubrovnik, located in Komolac, 6 km from Dubrovnik. It is home to numerous charter companies which offer numerous potential routes for sailing around the Dubrovnik area. They will get you on board for a memorable sailing experience.

“

May the wind always be at your back and the sun upon your face. The quote from “Fair Winds and Following Seas”origin of this oldIrish song is unknown but is often used as a nautical blessing.

”

m i n č e ta

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a symbol of the city

Minčeta

Inside tip

The tower was named after the Dubrovnik aristocratic family Menčetić, who owned the land and offered it for the construction of the fort. It was originally built in 1319 as a high reaching quadrilateral fort according the designs of local architect Nicifor Ranjina. Later on, in 1461 the famous architect Michelozzo di Bartolomeo of Florence reconstructed Minčeta and built a new round tower around the earlier quadrilateral fort, adapted to the new technique of warfare and joined it to the new system of low outer walls. The walls of the new tower were now six meters thick and had a series of protected gun ports, thus making Minčeta one of the strongest defence forts of Dubrovnik. Juraj Dalmatinac (constructor of the Cathedral in Šibenik) continued his work; he built the bottom of the fortress and gave it the recognizable overhead part, the Gothic crown that spreads over the side of the fort instilling a sense of power. The tower was completed in 1464 and, by its height and impressive volume, became a symbol of the unconquerable city of Dubrovnik dominating the high north-western part of the city and its walls.

F IN D INGS After long excavations of the Minčeta tower and Gornji Ugao Tower positioned just under the Fort Minčeta, an expected, yet astonishing discovery was found in 2008 - a uniquely preserved industrial zone – a medieval cannon foundry from the late 15th century was discovered within the Gornji Ugao Tower. Today this place is a museum and it is a rare example of this type of industrial site, and its position within the city walls makes it unique.

D I D Y OU K NOW ? — In its active service, Minčeta was armed with nine guns among which was also a mighty bronze cannon which weighed more than seven tonnes. This masterpiece was created by Ivan Rabljanin who also made the bell for the city bell tower. Because of its grand size, strength and beauty, Napoleon’s soldiers called it the ‘beautiful woman’. Later on, during their occupation, the Austrians took it to Vienna where they melted it down. — During the construction of the Minčeta Tower in 1464, a shortage of local building materials prompted the authorities to order anyone arriving at the city from the direction of Gruž Harbour or Ploče Gate to bring a stone with them in proportion with their bodily structure to contribute to the construction. — For the beauty of its architecture, the Minčeta tower is considered one of the most beautiful Renaissance forts in the world. — It also was used for distributing water throughout the Old Town.

Walk along the ancient walls to get to the tower. During your progress to the tower, stop to admire the view of the fort from a distance. Once you arrive at Minčeta Fort, follow the narrow stone stairway to the top of the tower. It is a steep climb, but the views are among the best in Dubrovnik. Look down on the rooftops of the Old town and across the Adriatic Sea. See if you can spot Lokrum Island on the horizon or other famous historical sights within the Old Town.

— Minčeta Tower also played a part in the Game of Thrones filming – its base was used as the exterior of House of Undying in the town of Qarth. All the GoT lovers must know the scene from season two – the place where Daenerys Targaryen walks around trying to find the entrance into the House of Undying looking for her stolen dragons. Oh yes, we remember her screaming: ‘Where are my dragons?’

m i n č e ta

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Inside tip

The most prominent part of the Dubrovnik city walls is the round Minčeta Tower on the northwest corner. Its walls are up to six meters thick to protect Dubrovnik from attacks by land. The Minčeta tower stands on the highest point of the Dubrovnik city walls and is the most beautiful and most remarkable fort in Dubrovnik. Equally impressive and beautiful from a distance and up close, this massive fort offers unforgettable views of the Old Town.

A n I n dus t r i a l m i r ac l e f rom t h e l at e 1 5 t h c e n t u ry i n t h e h i s t or ic c e n t r e of Du brov n i k

The cannon foundry under Minčeta fortress This is literally a cool attraction to visit while exploring the Dubrovnik city walls, especially in the heat of summer. Continuing our story about the Minčeta Fort, allow us to lead you deeper under the area of Minčeta Fort to reveal the astonishing discovery of a medieval cannon foundry from the late 15th century, within the Gornji Ugao Tower on the northwest corner of the town — another evidence of the city’s glorious past. This site is particularly special given the fact that it is a comparatively new discovery of what once was an industrial zone in the medieval period. In 2003, when the Society of Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquities, which takes special care of the Dubrovnik city walls, decided to restore the Gornji Ugao Tower (the Upper Corner) to its former appearance. Archaeological excavations from 2005 through 2008 uncovered the wall between Minčeta and the Upper Corner Tower. Precisely between those walls, excavations revealed parts of the former city – a uniquely preserved medieval cannon foundry from the late 15th century.

Nestled neatly below the Minčeta tower and protected from the outside by the city walls from all sides from enemies, the foundry was separated from the residential area as well, thus protecting the inhabitants from the smoke, smell, as well as from a possible spread of fire from the inside. This intriguing 600 square meter space is divided into five spatial zones, each representing one aspect of production technology including: 1 — Smeltery where the metal was prepared for casting. 2 — The moulding plant where moulds were made. 3 — Water basins used for the purification of moulding sand from excess clay particles. 4 — Sedimentation channel used for filtration and settling of fine particles of sand and for water runoff from the pool, 5 — Sand depository containing a pile of original casting sand (a volcanic material imported from Italy –precisely from volcano Etna, essential for the working of any foundry) used to make foundry moulds. Today, the foundry can be visited by walking along a transparent elevated path leading to all sections. It was a place where gunpowder was prepared, bronze was cast, bells, cannons and cannonballs were moulded and tools such as keys, horseshoes, needles, buckles and musket shots were made. The raw materials needed for production came from Ruschberg, Germany where silver, lead, copper and iron ore were mined. Since the most important role of the foundry was the production of weapons (such as cannonballs and bullets in various sizes), the Dubrovnik Republic gained vital economic development and became an important producer of firearms that were meant not only for domestic use, but were also exported to Spain, Italy, and Venice.

Referred to as one of the city’s best features, the Gornji Ugao Tower provides an incredible collection of unique industrial artefacts. If you happen to be nearby, we recommend you to visit this extraordinary archaeological site and learn about the powerful history of manufacturing in Dubrovnik. Give it a go - you will not be disappointed!

The foundry was functional until the 17 th century, but the most intense usage occurred in the 16th century when the wall that connected the Gornji Ugao Tower with Minčeta was built. In 1667, the Great Earthquake caused the closing of the foundry after which the location was completely covered up by rubble from the ruined surrounding homes and was used as a dump. Zones, although embanked, still operated in an improvised manner so that the foundry for a short time was still functional. In these layers of rubble, various findings were discovered. They were mostly modern age fragments of ceramic vessels, ceramic pipes, and a small number of metal fragments, money, processed stone fragments, and several fragments of modern age glass. Nowadays, the Upper Corner Tower functions as a museum of smaller archaeological findings while the foundry is considered as one of the few preserved structures of its kind, and its location within the city walls makes it unique, without comparative examples. And if you have the time, be sure to visit the basketball court tucked below the Gornji Ugao Tower. It was actually built in order to reinforce the concrete columns based on the bedrock whose primary function was to preserve the archaeological findings within the foundry. The views from there are also beautiful! O P ENING HOURS April – October, daily from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm Closed on public holidays. GE T T ING T HERE If you are coming from the direction of Buža Gate or from Pile Gate, head up the stairs to the bottom of Minčeta Tower. In the interior of Minčeta Tower is ticket office and entrance to this underground archaeological site.

events in dubrovnik

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Events in Dubrovnik PERFORMANCES & M U S I C F E S T I VA L S

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS

TIŠINA, MOLIM! (QUIET, PLEASE!) April 7 – 13, 2019 This new film festival in Dubrovnik offers to its visitors interactive educational content, film screenings, visual attractions, and plenty of surprises. During the fourteen days of the festival, tourists and Dubrovnik locals of all generations have the opportunity to become acquainted with all of the ties between Dubrovnik and the history of film culture over the last hundred years.

Featured by Dubrovnik Symphyony Orchestra *concert programme is subject to change. Please visit www.dso.hr for more information

AKLAPELA – VOCAL GROUP FESTIVAL April 26 – 28, 2019 Aklapela is a yearly gathering of the most accomplished klapa a cappella singing groups in Croatia. Concert performances feature both men’s and women’s groups, in this traditional vocal style. The festival is held after Easter. More info at: www.aklapela.hr PERFORMANCES OF FOLKLORE ENSEMBLE LINĐO May – October, 2019 (Tuesdays and Fridays at 21:30), Lazareti (east entrance of the Old Town Dubrovnik) The Linđo Folk Ensemble was founded in Dubrovnik in 1964 and consists of more than 300 members between the ages of 12 and 30, who perform traditional songs and dances from all regions of Croatia. With their youthful enthusiasm and traditional costumes, they celebrate the heritage of our people. More info at: www.lindjo.hr LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THÉÂTRE June 13 – 16, 2019 The Festival every year raises the curtain revealing creations carefully selected and talented artists whether they are poets, actors, dancers, or something else. More info at: www.lepetitfestival.com MUSICAL SCENE FESTIVAL ‘ANA IN TOWN’ June 21, 2019 This three-day music festival starts with a fantastic concert at the dawn of the first day of summer and World Music Day on June 21st, featuring cellist Ana Rucner, a young artist of distinctive musical style, in a dual role - a classical musician and a crossover instrumentalist. MIDSUMMER SCENE FESTIVAL June 21 – July 05, 2019 St. Lawrence Fortress Take a look at Shakespeare’s one of the most beloved comedies ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ (performed in English) as a main part of this famous Croatian festival aimed for international visitors. More info at: midsummer-scene.com SUMMER EVENTS PROGRAM AT DUBROVNIK SOURROUNDINGS July 1 – August 31, 2019 Enjoy music and entertainment programs on the Elafiti Islands, in Zaton and Orašac and witness the Mediterranean melody, folklore and folk traditions that have been cherished for ages. More info at: www.tzdubrovnik.hr

DUBROVNIK MUSICAL SPRING April 12 – May 31, 2019 Featuring a wide repertoire and many distinguished guests, performing famous classical, Baroque, romantic, contemporary and Croatian compositions. ORLANDO FURIOSO June 7 – 14, 2019 | Rector’s Palace, Lokrum Island and Dubrovnik Cathedral This is new happening in the city that presents a cycle of a Baroque music. The event will be led by a Russian multitalented musician virtuoso, Dmitry Sinkovsky. INTERNATIONAL OPERA ARIAS FESTIVAL “TINO PATTIERA” June 28 – July 5, 2019 | Rector’s Palace The festival honours the memory of the world-famous tenor Tino Pattiera, who was born in 1890 in Cavtat, a town about 20km from Dubrovnik, where he died in 1966. Tino Pattiera was one of the major singers in the opera houses of Europe and throughout the world during the first half of the 20th century. LATE SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL DUBROVNIK August 30 – September 24, 2019 Rector’s Palace With concerts, which are traditionally held in beautiful ambience of Rector’s Palace, we bid farewell to summer through four weeks of the festival. In the last two years the festival hosted many Croatian and internationally renowned artists, and it aims to continue offering citizens of Dubrovnik and its visitors quality cultural events when Dubrovnik Summer Festival is over. AUTUMN MUSIC VARIETY October 12 – 25, 2019 Gypsy jazz, Chamber music and many renowned artists.

SPORTING EV EN TS RUN THE WALL – DU MOTION April 27, 2019 An unforgettable, but dangerous race as well. Once a year The Walls of Dubrovnik, considered to be amongst the greatest fortification systems of the Middle Ages and running an uninterrupted course of approximately 1,940 metres while encircling most of the Old City, serve as a track field to a very tricky 2,5K race. More info at: www.du-motion.com

DUBROVNIK HALF MARATHON – DU MOTION April 28, 2019 The marathon running, especially two-kilometre long race with a limited number of participants held at Dubrovnik walls is certainly an attraction. With the motto “More than a race” this new event is more than just a sporting event since, through running, healthy lifestyles will be promoted. More info at: www.du-motion.com 5K – CHARITY RACE – DU MOTION April 28, 2019 One of the most beautiful race tracks for a good cause. More info at: www.du-motion.com STON WALL MARATHON September 23, 2019 Starting and ending in the picturesque town of Ston, the full marathon route takes you south to Pržina and north to Duba Stonska, following stretches of the medieval Ston Walls and the Adriatic coast. More info at: ston-wall-marathon.com WATERPOLO ‘WILD LEAGUE’ July 12 – August 05, 2019 This is the largest amateur water polo competition in the world, started in 1922. More than 40 teams from various local neighbourhoods compete at beach locations throughout the city. More info at: www.divljaliga.hr

GASTRONOMY CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF JAMS AND MARMALADES September 29 – October 1, 2019 In front of St. Blaise church Exhibitors dress in the national costumes of the places from which they come, from counties from all around Croatia, and present their products to visitors and Dubrovnik restaurateurs caterers, who will use these native delicacies to elevate and enrich their gastronomic offerings. More info at: www.desa-dubrovnik.hr GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL DUBROVNIK October 17 – 20, 2019 The four day programme includes several presentations of culinary specialties of the region, cookbooks in English, programmes for children, tasting of regional wines, culinary workshops and other activities such as ‘dinner with a famous chef’ and workshops on how to prepare a typical Dubrovnik sweet ‘gulozece’, ‘Eat & Walk’ gastro tour, ‘Sweet Tooth Map’ – a map for those who have a sweet tooth and other surprise activities. More info at: www.tzdubrovnik.hr DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE April 22 – 28, 2019 This regional wine festival gathers more than hundred regional winemakers who have the opportunity to present their wines to numerous wine professionals and visitors. In 2017 the festival opened its doors to participants outside Croatia and thus became an international festival. Visitors will have an opportunity to taste fine wines and be a part of numerous wine workshops together with wine experts and sommeliers. More info at: dubrovnikfestiwine.com

*some event programmes are subject to change. Please visit their web domains for more information.

NIGHTLIFE

CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Located in the Revelin fortress at the entrance to the Old Town at Ploče Gate, the club is famous for its 3-day festival in August featuring famous performers on the global electronic music scene. More info at: www.clubrevelin.com

CELEBR AT IONS FESTIVAL OF ST. BLAISE February 2 – 10 Each February 2nd, Dubrovnik celebrates the Virgin Mary Candlemas. An old saying is then repeated: Candelora, winter is gone, followed by Saint Blaise, who says it is untrue? Indeed, on this day, Dubrovnik is full of mimosa, narcissus, and sunny, spring weather. On the morning of the festival, white doves are released in front of St. Blaise’s church, and prayers are said in front of the altar by the faithful the entire day. The priests bless everyone with a cross shaped out of two intertwined candles, and raise a silver monstrance to their lips, the work of Dubrovnik goldsmiths. More info at: www.dubrovnik.hr DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL FESTIVITIES February 22 – March 05, 2019 Our ancestors had fun, so why shouldn’t we? This proverb can often be heard in Dubrovnik in February, during the carnival season preceding Lent. Experience the special atmosphere of the Dubrovnik carnival festivities characterized by jokes, laughter, merriment, joy, satire. 70th DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL July 10 – August 25, 2019 This is the largest and most representative cultural manifestation not only in Dubrovnik but in Croatia. Festival sees more than 80 performances of music, theatre, dance and film, at various open-air locations in the old town, plus a programme of outdoor cinema. More info at: dubrovnik-festival.hr DUBROVNIK WINTER FESTIVAL December – January During the Advent season, Dubrovnik shines with magical decorations and sparkles with lights, creating an atmosphere of a fairy-tale Renaissance city. The festival offers innumerable reasons for gatherings while combining fun, culture, enjoyment, music, gastronomy and art on the most attractive stages in the City and its surrounding areas. More info at: www.tzdubrovnik.hr ADVENT IN THE CITY The program of Dubrovnik’s winter festival – Advent in the City – begins with the lighting of the first Advent candle. This year’s Christmas market will be set up on the most beautiful street in Dubrovnik, Stradun featuring local craftsman presenting traditional arts and crafts, Dubrovnik sweet delicacies, Christmas decorations, candles, toys, glassware, embroidery, ceramics, porcelain and a variety of other hand-made souvenirs and gifts. DUBROVNIK NEW YEAR’S PARTY On New Year’s Eve, the musicians of Dubrovnik see the old year out with traditional carols and an all-day music program leading up to the wildest night of the year. The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra’s New Year’s Day concert on the Stradun on January 1 will be a special gift to those visiting the city.

u lt i m at e l o v e s p o t s

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Dubrovnik’s 5 ultimate love spots Where better to spend your special moments than in Dubrovnik – listed as CNN’s top 10 places for a perfect proposal! Already happily married? So were Liz Taylor and Richard Burton when they escaped to the Dubrovnik for their romantic getaway.

spot no. 02 Love-Locks on Boninovo It’s colloquially known as ‘The Love-Locks Fence’ because its chain-link sides have been festooned with hundreds of padlocks, symbolizing couples’ enduring passion. These love-locks have been engraved with initials, names and/ or dates, and sometimes flourished with keepsakes and ribbons. Many lovers take this business seriously, clamping with intent and throwing their lock-keys in the sea; some less romantic souls, though, have used combination locks, hedging their bets that some other love might come along. While there are may ‘Love-Lock’ bridges and fences all over Europe we dare to say that only a few have such a nice view.

spot no. 04 Signature Suite – Hotel Excelsior Do we need to say more?

spot no. 01 Breakwater Porporela spot no. 05 Need a ring to circle it all?

Porporela is the place where lovers finish their promenade through the City. They begin their walk at Pile, continue along the main street Stradun, and finish it hand in hand on one of the benches by the Red Feral (warning light) at Porporela, or on the small wall which encompasses St Johns Fort which protected the southern part of the City against attacks from the sea. Hidden from inquisitive eyes it is a popular romantic spot for couples to enjoy amazing sunsets and sounds of waves splashing against the rocks.

spot no. 03 Leisurely Brunch at City cafe This year why not forgo a fancy dinner reservations on Valentine’s Day and enjoy a leisurely brunch on the terrace of the city café? Maybe order some of the famous Ston’s aphrodisiac oysters? With over a 100-year old tradition, this remains a prime terrace in the Old Town you to sip your morning coffee watching the city crowds ebb and flow the main street. Wait for the moment of full hour when City Belltower’s Jacquemarts (bellstrikers), popularly known as Maro and Baro, strike their hammers announcing the time and sending hundreds of pigeons soaring in the air.

The goldsmiths’ trade in Dubrovnik is one of the oldest, and certainly the best-known trades. Flourishing in 14th and 15 th century, goldsmiths made the favorite adornments of Dubrovnik ladies with special care, skill and artistry. Worn by dignitaries and celebrities like Queen Rania of Jordan, Gillian Anderson and Catherine Zeta Jones showcases their timeless design. Gold or filigree silver, rečini (earrings) or puce (decorative buttons) which you purchase in Dubrovnik will definitively be a lifetime memento.

going local

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Going local ... i nsi de r t i p s ... In your research before visiting Dubrovnik you have probably learned something about the local attractions, places to see, and must-visit locations. But in these pages, we will introduce you to our local customs, the way in which Dubrovnik people live and talk – something you cannot read in any guide.

By now you have probably learned a few Croatian words to get you by, but here we will teach you some of our local phrases that capture our way of living that you can easily drop into a conversation. o.k. Let’s get started…..

Pomalo [ POH-mah-lo ]

The word ‘pomalo’ is one of the most quintessential words in Dubrovnik. Literally, it means slow, or slowly. However, in Dubrovnik it’s rather used as a greeting, to say ‘take it easy’. For people in Dubrovnik, ‘pomalo’ is a way of life, rather than just a phrase. It captures the essence of the mentality and daily lifestyle of the locals.

Nothing happens quickly here in Dubrovnik. This has been embedded in local people ever since the days of the Dubrovnik Republic. We value doing things the traditional way, not to be hipsters or to express our attitude, but because we value our way of life. We can enjoy a true ‘pomalo lifestyle’ to slow down in our lives and to focus on what we truly love and cherish.

T h e P o m a l o L i f e s ty l e – w her e time does not ex ist

A wor d w ith m a n y mea nings

Locals in Dubrovnik sometimes live in slow motion and their understanding of the concept of time might different than visitors would expect.

The most common use of the word ‘pomalo’ is in greeting. When you see some of your acquaintances or friends, you just raise your hand or nod your head and say ‘pomalo’.

We have a certain relaxed, no worries, slow, no problem, there is always time for a few hours of coffee – attitude. In other words, we enjoy life at a leisurely pace.

Also, when someone asks, ‘Hey, how are you?’, you just say, ‘Pomalo.’ The same applies when leaving a bar or a group of friends or family. When they say, ‘Bye,’ you can just reply ‘Pomalo.’ When you are rushing somewhere, running late or cannot find something you’re looking for, we just say, ‘Pomalo, pomalo.’ As you can see, time here runs a little more slowly than most other places. We say there is always time for everything.

So enter the Zen state, slow down, relax and enjoy the moment! Pomalo!

delicious secrets

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DELICIOUS SECRETS : RECIPES FROM OLD DUBROVNIK

Mantala

It’s the same 300-year-old recipe, but never the same dessert. Mantala is a traditional Christmas sweet from the Konavale Region – a sweet, dark brown paste made of red grape must (preferably the plavac mali variety). This thick and chunky fruit juice is mixed with almonds or walnuts, orange peel, dried lemons, curd, olive oil powder and cinnamon.

Recipes for Mantala differ from region to region. While in the rest of Croatia sweets of must are prepared in just a few families, in Konavle the tradition has lasted longer than anywhere else. In the once-impoverished extreme south, in which the presence of the magnificent Dubrovnik did not necessarily mean riches for the rural population, Mantala was one of just a few sweets with which at holiday times a change was made to the everyday. In Konavle, Dubrovnik, Korčula and Pelješac, Mantala was made at All Saints or Hallowmas (November 1). It was prepared as a luxury sweet for families and guests and appeared also as a part of the customs related to this

Serv e s: a lot Pr epa r at ion t i m e: depending on your skills Di ff icu lty: only for the brave I ngr edi en t s: 2 l of varenik* (grape syrup) 6 l of red grape must (preferably plavac mali) 0,5 kg coarse whole grain wheat flour 0,3 kg roasted almonds or walnuts 4-5 pcs of cloves peel of ½ an orange peel of ½ a lemon ¼ of nutmeg 1 teaspoon of cinnamon a bay laurel leaf or sour orange leaf * Varenik is prepared from red grape varieties. It is cooked on a low heat while stirring and prepared in a ratio of 1: 3 meaning that varenik is finished when one third of the liquid remains in the pot (i.e. 6 litres of yields 2 litres of varenik)

INTERESTING FA C TS — Preparing Mantala lasts, from the moment you start to pick up the right grapes until the end - cooking and cooling the cake itself. — It takes seven pounds of grapes, (all just specially selected grape berries) to produce just one litre of precious syrup - varenik. — Once the hardest part about the grapes and picking ends, and you get varenik, the cooking is almost over. Whether the sweetness of the grape is good or not, varenik must be dense and black with a pleasing fragrance. — A litter of varenik is sufficient for a large rectangle of Mantala in a standard size oven mould. — When Mantala is prepared, it can last an unlimited time! But the best time to eat it is at Christmas, as it has the best flavour.

P RE PARATION

holy day. Not every household made Mantala, sometimes due to the high cost of the ingredients and some because the men preferred more wine in the house. So quite a lot of the womenfolk on the sly took must without them knowing, and cooked it, often secretly, at night, while they were sleeping. The must has to be cooked before it starts fermenting, otherwise it’s not good. Such cakes were sold at celebration for patron saints, given to children and offered to guests and always served with a glass of home-made grappa. It is still made today for home consumption, though only a few families keep this tradition. Preparing Mantala is a very complex process. It is prepared at the time when the red grape is at its best, and like every preserve, it’s the outcome of a long process.

The first, rather lengthy phase of preparation of Mantala is the boiling of the must in order to get varenik. When varenik is prepared, everything else should go smoothly and quickly. 1 — Grape must is boiled with dried (or fresh) orange peels and left to reduce to 1/3 of the original quantity. The remaining liquid is called varenik. 2 —Add the whole grain wheat flour. Boil and stir the mixture for about 15 - 20 minutes until it becomes jelly and thick. 3 — Add ground chopped almonds (or nuts), and then other spices such as cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon peel. 4 — The Mantala cake is ready when the mixture is densely cooked so that a wooden spoon stands upright in the mixing bowl. 5 — Pour the mixture into a wooden * In the past, Mantala mould (made from mulberry wood*), was stored in mulberry tree drawers that cover it with a wet napkin sprinkle with would slowly extract ground cinnamon and leave to dry for the moisture so that the cake was never three days to take shape or preferably too dry. until Christmas as that’s the right time for eating it. E x t r a t i p you can also cover the Mantala with bay or orange leaves and leave it to absorb their aromas until Christmas time, when it is traditionally served. There are also some secret ingredients that make the original Mantala cake, so we would still like to keep them secret for some time…. When serving, cut into squares or blocks and set on bay and bitter orange leaves.

tip Try this Dubrovnik classic at your hotel, or head to the Dubrovnik green market for your own piece of ‘Mantala’.

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Pardon my Croatian •

•

With a few phrases up your sleeve you’ll skip right from ‘table number 6’ to ‘John, my American friend we’re sending sometihing over for Christmas’. Or at least it would get you a ‘digestif on the house’ after a meal. Sounds good? Let’s begin …

d i n i n g

e d i t i o n

•

Please. Molim. [ MOH-leem ] I would like... ja bih… [ yah beeH ] Thank you. Hvala. [ HVAH-lah ] You’re welcome. Nema na čemu. [ NEH-mah na CHEH-moo ] or Molim. [ MO-leem ] A glass of red / white wine, please. Molim Vas čašu crnog / bijelog vina. [ MOH-leem vahs CHAH-shoo TSUHR-nohg / BYEH-lohg VEE-nah ]

Good afternoon. Dobar dan. [ DOE-bahr dahn ]

Cheers! Živjeli / Nazdravlje [ Zhee-ve-lee / Naz-dra-vlee ]

Good evening. Dobra večer. [ DOE-brah VEH-cher ]

Bon appetit! Dobar tek! [ DOE-bar tek ]

Hello. (informal) Bok. [ bohk ]

Just a little. Samo malo. [ SAH-moh MAH-loh ]

How are you? Kako ste? (formal) [ KAH-koh steh? ]

This one comes as especially useful one. Primarily if you end up sitting down for a meal or drinks with

a Croatian family and your generous host offers you some homemade rakija (grappa), wine, cherry liquor, ect. To be honest, there is a fair chance that you’ll have to repeat it a few times, as they’ll probably ignore you and keep pouring it in: “Ah, don’t worry, wine is good for you … my grandma is 90 and she never skipped ‘bevanda’ (combination of half wine - half water) after a meal in her life. And they never run out; there is basically an endless supply of home-made everything. It was delicious. Bilo je ukusno. [ BEE-loh yeh OO-koos-noh ] The check, please. Račun, molim. [ RAH-choon, MOH-leem ] Thank you very much. Hvala lijepa. [ HVAh-lah LYEH-pah ] This is it for now … Goodbye! Adio [ adio ]

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RESTAURANT VAPOR

SPHERE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE BAR

What’s on the menu? is out. What would I like to eat? is in.

An homage to Mediterranean dining

For the third year in a row the prestigious gastronomic guide Michelin published a selection of top restaurants in Croatia among which, Restaurant Vapor was also listed.

The views of Uvala Lapad promenade and the beach are sublime from the very large open terrace of Sphere Restaurant on the ground floor.

Hidden from the outside world on a 30-metre high cliff, the Hotel Bellevue’s a la carte restaurant, Vapor, is the musttaste dining experience for every gourmet visiting Dubrovnik. The restaurant follows the fundamental philosophy of the Hotel Bellevue: everything is adapted to the wishes of the guests.

A generous buffet breakfast is served here every morning, and at night, an innovative dinner menu accompanied by twinkling sea and night-sky scenery.

General info L oc at ion Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik Pera Čingrije 7, Dubrovnik Sty l e t i p Should you choose to join this restaurant’s chic atmosphere, keep it jet-set casual. HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday to Sunday 12:00 – 23:00 r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

The focus is on finest seasonal produce prepared with an innovative and aesthetic twist and complemented by one of the best wine lists in Dubrovnik. Small wonder that Vapor that has quickly gained an iconic reputation as one of the finest in Croatia and recognized by Michelin guide.

Inside tip

General info L oc at ion Hotel Kompas Dubrovnik Kardinala Stepinca 21, Dubrovnik Sty l e t i p Something cool and breezy; light summer dress by day, spiced up with a bag and a gentleman in your hand by night. HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday to Sunday 06:30 – 24:00 r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

The glamorous lounge with its ergonomic armchairs set beneath oversized moonlike light shades serves top-notch cocktails, a fine wine list and great coffee with fantastic sea views. And is set to once again be one of the best places in Lapad Bay for cocktails at sunset.

Inside tip

* Book a table on the terrace and enjoy incomparable vistas of the Adriatic azure. While trying to decide what to indulge in, order one of the Vapor’s delicious cocktails or sample some of the best local wines.

* Arrive before sunset and ask for a table right on the edge of the promenade to enjoy romantic views while the sun sets over the bay. Pssst… Don’t forget to order some dessert before you head off.

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sensus

VICTORIA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE BAR

Fine dining restaurant

A Peruvian plate with Adriatic flavour

Dinner menu designed for newly opened Sensus Restaurant is created to reflect its sleek and contemporary interiors; unconventional and creative dishes are made from fresh local delicacies and carefully paired with finest Croatian wines from wine cellar shelves which adorn the walls.

Set on a grapevine-draped terrace overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Restaurant Victoria is a gastronomic destination in itself. Victoria offers a unique Peruvian fusion experience complemented by an extensive wine list and sublime views of the Dubrovnik Old Town.

Executive chef Petar Obad, a bard and native of Konavle in south Croatia, infuses his masterful cuisine with a near-poetic beauty to elevate traditional homemade Mediterranean classics to world-class works of artistry. Lunch offer is a somewhat ‘lighter’ selection of wraps, soups, risottos but the dinner takes you on the ultimate Mediterranean gourmet journey.

Peruvian people proudly state that their culinary style is unique – so does Roberto Chavez, the young head chef of Victoria Restaurant, the first Peruvian restaurant on the Adriatic. The richness of tastes comes from an already unique blend of different microclimates combining fresh local ingredients with ethnic influences that make Peruvian cuisine so authentic.

General info L oc at ion Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik Frana Supila 12, Dubrovnik Sty l e t i p Classy seaside chic HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday to Sunday 12:00 – 23:00 r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

In Sensus, the food can only be outshined by the magnificence of the setting: the sun reflecting of the stoned walls of the Old Town and deep blues of the Adriatic in the background.

Inside tip

* Ask our sommelier to personally get you acquaint with each dish and to recommend the perfect wine paring from our wine cellar shelves. *

General info L oc at ion Villa Orsula Dubrovnik Frana Supila 14 Sty l e t i p Côte d’Azur allure: a coral or chartreuse dress, a crisp linen shirt HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday to Sunday: 18:00 – 24:00 (April - October) r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

Asked to describe the Victoria Restaurant in few words, Roberto calls it authentic, original, beautiful, vibrant, and completely different – just like Peruvian cuisine.

Inside tip

* Ask for the table in the corner underneath the grapevine-draped terrace and enjoy the divine views at sunset, with the orange sun dipping beneath the horizon and the iconic walls of the Old Town in the distance. *

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TAVERNA MASLINA

steak house

A contemporary World-class Dalmatian steak tavern specialties Maslina has the atmosphere of a Mediterranean tavern, with a menu inspired by the finest local ingredients. From light appetizers, and a choice of fresh fish specialties, to typical Dalmatian meat dishes, you’ll enjoy fabulous cuisine complemented by stunning views all the way to the Elafiti Islands.

Consistently voted one of the best restaurants at Hotel Croatia Cavtat, Steak house is one of our signature restaurants and has all the atmosphere and look of a classic Wild West eatery.

Everything about this Tavern is fresh. The breeze coming in from the open sea directly beneath you, the taste of Adriatic seafood on the plate in front of you, and the smell of salt and sea rock coming in on the splashing waves.

The dark-wood interior and rustic furnishings set the scene. The culinary techniques of this restaurant include grilling, boiling and sautéing prime meat cuts - a perfect choice for true meat-lovers.

General info L oc at ion Hotel Dubrovnik Palace Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik Sty l e t i p Seaside casual – summer dresses and sandals will do nicely HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday – Friday 12:00 – 24:00 (Open seasonally April – November) r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

Located at Dubrovnik Palace Hotel, Maslina offers a twist on traditional, Dalmatian al fresco dining. It is nestled directly on the balmy beachfront and offers breathtaking views of the Adriatic and nearby Elaphiti Islands.

Inside tip

* You may want to jump in the sea or the nearby pools after you’ve finished your meal. And you can! *

General info L oc at ion Hotel Croatia Cavtat Frankopanska 10, Cavtat Sty l e t i p You won’t be out of place in jeans, but dress them up with some smart shoes for the evening HOURS O F O P ERA T ION Monday to Sunday: 12:00 - 15:00 (lunch); 18:00 - 24:00 (dinner) r e s e r va t i o n s Please contact the Front Desk

Whet your appetite as you watch – and smell – the steaks sizzling on the huge charcoal grill in the restaurant’s open kitchen or book a table at the terrace and enjoy a fantastic view of ancient village of Cavtat and its beautiful bay.

Inside tip

* In addition to the grilled specialties (we recommend to keep it simple and tasty – go for the 250g Grilled Rib eye steak paired with our signature BBQ sauce), don’t forget to try the fabulous appetizers. *

d i s c o v e r ko n av l e

If you are up to escaping D u b r o v n i k f o r a d a y…

Discover Konavle Pa s j a č a b e a c h

No music, no bars, no cars, no crowds, no phone or internet signal, just pristine waters and the open sea in front of you – sounds like a dream right? Or DiCaprio’s movie description? And it is, but a hard reached one. Pasjača shyly emerges from the giant Konavle cliffs, close by to the village Popovići. It is not a natural beach; the sea word down the surplus of stone left from the tunnels dug in World War Two creating a surreally beautiful beach. Locals have not made it east to find, and it is definitively not easy to reach; think about thousand steps up and down on a steep cliffside, and no mojto waiting for you on either end. But once you do get there, as a reward the views are simply breathtaking. Its sunny all day long, with a little cave offering a much needed mid-day shade and only a few people to share it with. This piece of heaven is not available for long; unfortunately, the beach is disappearing because the sea is eroding the sand. Di r e ct ions ... ... don’t think so. You have to be perusive enought to have the locals show you the way or persistant enought to google it youself (remember no internet signal).

Čilipi If you want to explore the folklore and ethnography of Konavle, you must visit Čilipi, the cultural centre and one of the largest settlements in Konavle. For over forty years now, every Sunday morning at 11.15 am, from Easter to the end of October, traditional folk dancing is held in front of the St. Nicholas church. This is surely the best way to get to know the tradition and customs of this region. We also recommend visiting the Konavle County House museum that contains the ethnographic treasures of Konavle, displayed in a perfectly restored typical Konavle house. The collection contains about 500 items including men’s and women’s folk costumes, embroidery, jewellery, arms, musical instruments and items used in the everyday life.

F o r t ‘ S o k o l’ ( H aw k f o r t ) Dating from the 15th century, the impressive Sokol fort was built at the foot of the stone cliffs that rise above the village of Dunave in Konavle. It was the largest fort in the area, built to guard the border of the Dubrovnik Republic and defended the area from enemy invasions through the natural passage between the massive Snježnica and Bjelotina Mountains. Throughout the centuries it was constantly adapted and upgraded. T i p When you set foot on the last step and reach the top of the fort, you will be impressed by the breath-taking view of the entire Konavle region.

ko n av l e — h i s to r i c t r a i n

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B l a s t f r o m t h e pa s t

Ćiro — historic train in Konavle

It was in on July 15th, 1901, when the first train arrived in Dubrovnik. This line was part of the southern railway network of narrow-gauge railroads which the Austro-Hungarian Empire began to build in the 19th century as a connection to the European railway network.

D i d yo u k n o w? — Dubrovnik was part of the European railway network for over 75 years

The famous and beloved local train line ‘Ćiro’ (aka ‘train Ćiro’ – pronounced ‘chee-ro’) used to run on an old historic monorail connecting Dubrovnik with Sarajevo thus joining numerous places and peoples of Bosnia and Hercegovina, Montenegro and Croatia. The railway employed more than 200 workers as transport and railway staff.

One branch of that railway, 51 km long, passed through the Municipality of Dubrovnik. On this railway route passing through Dubrovnik there were five stations and six crossings.

During World War I the railway played a very important military role as it was the easiest way to deliver supplies to Kotor which was a strong military base in that time. From 1918 to 1945 it was also very important for economic progress of the area and was used to deliver food and technical goods, as well as construction materials. Likewise, wine, rakija (local brandy), olive oil, as well as large quantities of bulk goods were transported by the railway to the continental part of the country. After World War II the railway brought prosperity to Konavle area since it delivered food, animal feed, livestock, fertilizer, and pesticides for wine cultivation from other parts of country. Passenger traffic on the popular Ćiro train averaged about 150 passengers per day, mostly in transit and in combination with bus traffic. For decades, Ćiro connected states, regions, people and cultures leaving its mark on the places where it went with its roaring, beating, whistling and steaming. On May 30, 1976 Ćiro sounded its whistle in Gruž and embarked from Dubrovnik on its farewell journey for one last time. On June 1st, 1976, traffic stopped operating on the track between Čapljina and Dubrovnik since the construction of the Adriatic highway and the new airport in Čilipi led to the final abolition of this railway line. After closing the lines, railway equipment was destroyed or stolen, leaving the trail merely as a memory of past days. Ćiro became a symbol of outdated technology and the era that ended with the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy.

Since the railroad has been in this area since 1901, it is a noted part of the cultural and historical heritage through the entire region. Even today, Ćiro still lives in the memories of people remembering the times when this mighty train whistled and roared announcing its return from a long travelling route. In November 2017, the ‘Ćiro’ trail was revitalized and transformed into a unique walking-bicycle trail and earned the title of an ‘open museum’ dedicated to the ĆIRO history.

I NTE R EST I N G F A C TS — The Austrian composer Johann Strauss III composed a polka specifically for the building of Ćiro railroad, which was a variant of the song Polka-schnell. — Today, the railway route has been turned into a bicycle route which is more than 150 kilometres long and passes through 99 tunnels, through three countries. — The Guardian newspaper recommends Cycling Trail ‘Ćiro’ from Dubrovnik to Mostar — The line changed hands through 5 states during its lifetime, and today you will find the remnants of stations, platforms, tunnels and bridges. — Part of the rail line (today’s biking trail), passes through Konavle and this 18 km scenic trail offers the stunning vistas of Konavle Valley.

Inside tip: Continue to the next page and read about what’s waiting for you if you decide to bike along the ‘Ćiro’ route in the Konavle region.

ko n av l e — a d v e n t u r e

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N at u r e a n d a d v e n t u r e

Cycling and walking trail Ćiro in Konavle

Continuing our story of the ‘Ćiro’ trail we will give you a few glimpses of this famous biking and hiking track.

K o n av l e ‘ Ć IRO T RAIL’ i n f o distance: 18 km route: Vojski Do – Mihanići – Drvenik – Gabrile – Uskoplje – Zvekovica – Močići – Čilipi – Komaji – Gruda – Karasovići You will enjoy the beautiful view of Konavle Valley and the Adriatic Sea. While riding through this trail you will see the most important infrastructure facilities of the early 20th century in Konavle such as old railway, train stations, tunnels, viaducts, and bridges. You will pass through villages of Mihanići, Zvekovica, Ćilipi and Gruda. Don’t forget to always stay on marked routes. The bicycle trail begins at the historic Zvekovica Railway Station and continues through the picturesque Konavle Valley. It eventually leads to an elevated point with a spectacular vista of Konavle, its quaint villages, vineyards, olive groves, grain mills and little rivers. Passing further though a tunnel, you will arrive to a railway station situated atop the hill. Tip: Take a little break here as this is a perfect spot for a refreshing picnic and taking photos. After the break, slowly descend down the road which will take you back to your starting point.

Sights a long the rou te The most attractive part of the ‘Ćiro’ bicycle route are seven railway stations, one bridge, and three tunnels. The largest ‘Mihanići’ Tunnel is 417 meters long, carved

inside the rock and used as a turning point where the railway descended in a curve from hill to the sea level rotating back to Cavtat. It is also famous for being home to endangered bat species, so passing through the tunnel is forbidden. However, the southern entrance to the tunnel has a resting point where visitors can stop at dusk and enjoy bat watching. When you pass by Vojski Do, once the first train station in Konavle, visit one of the largest groups of Mediaeval tombstones in Croatia in the village of Brotnice. Containing historical traces of carved scenes from the lives of the deceased, these monuments have been placed on the UNESCO world heritage list. Cycling from Vojski Do to Mihanići, you will enjoy the magical view of Konavle valley and its countless vineyards.

If you want to escape from everyday city noise, and prefer relaxing in nature, we recommend exploring the beauty of Konavle region by bicycle or by foot, choosing a route by yourself or using one of the theme routes suggested below.

The most famous varieties are Merlot, Maraština and Dubrovnik Malvasia (a variety indigenous to Konavle) which have been cultivated here since the late 17 th century. If we got you intrigued by now, grab your mountain bike and dare to embark on yet another adventure!

info — — —

01 The cycling route is well marked with signs, info boards and rest stops 02 Cycling maps are available at the Konavle Tourist board. 03 For sightseeing by foot, this 18 km scenic trail is secured by a safety fence and equipped with signposts and info boards. The resting spots enable you to catch the moment and enjoy stunning vistas of Konavle Valley.

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Fun facts

a bou t croat i a you’d never have guessed

gr e at wa l l of c roat i a

sea organ

neanderthals

The Walls of Ston are the longest preserved fortification system in the world, after the Great Wall of China.

Zadar is home to the world’s first ‘sea organ’ – a pipe organ at sea level played by the waves. Zadar is also known for its sunset, which Alfred Hitchcock once called was the most beautiful in the world.

An important collection of remains of Neanderthal humans, dated at 125,000 years old, was discovered in Krapina in central Croatia.

02 tesla Nikola Tesla, the inventor of the electrical age, was born in Smiljan, Croatia.

05 pula The Roman amphitheatre in Pula is the 6th largest amphitheatre in the world, and the only one with all 3 levels preserved.

06 03 r ice chocol ate The word’s first puffed-rice chocolate bar was invented in Croatia in 1963 at the Zvečevo factory in the western Slavonian city of Požega.

torpedo The world’s first torpedo was constructed in Rijeka. Ivan Lupis (Ivan Vukić) developed the first prototypes of the self-propelled torpedo in 1866. He called it Saviour of the Coastline.

08 wine There are 41,188 winemakers and vineyards covering 20,885 hectares of land in Croatia.

09 penkala Croatian engineer Slavoljub Penkala invented the mechanical pencil in 1906. Penkala also developed many other revolutionary inventions, such as a hot water bottle, a rail-car brake, and an anode battery.

f u n fa c t s a b o u t c r o at i a

10 fingerprinting Croatian Ivan Vučetić pioneered the use of fingerprinting. He was born on the island of Hvar before he moved to Argentina.

11 natur e 10% of Croatian land is legally protected, including 11 Nature Parks, 8 National Parks, and 2 Nature Reserves.

12 sport And we have to mention sport: It is hard to find a sport in which Croats have not excelled. Croatian athletes regularly win top prizes in international competitions from football and handball, to water polo and tennis, to skiing and athletics. • Croatia won the biggest haul of gold medals in Europe (per capita) at the Olympic Games in 2016 in Rio • Croatia has the top two ace servers in tennis history – No.1 Ivo Karlović, No.2 Goran Ivanišević. • We have the queen of Croatian sport! Many consider the best Croatian athlete of all time to be skier Janica Kostelić. She won 4 gold and 2 silver medals at the Olympic Games, 5 world golds and was 3 times named as the winner of the World Ski Cup. She also took the title of the best alpine skier in the history of the Winter Olympic Games, winning gold in slalom and downhill events. • Not to forget – Croatia has the world’s best football player – Luka Modrić who won the UEFA Champions League and took the Golden Ball at the World Cup, was named Europe’s best player of the year by UEFA and also won the FIFA award for world’s best player in 2018. And these are only a few!

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h o t e l i n f o r m at i o n

Adriatic Luxury Hotels

D REAM COLLEC T ION HOTEL E XCEL SIOR DUBROV NIK Dubrovnik’s iconic Hotel Excelsior is one of the finest luxury five-star hotels in the Mediterranean. Completely refurbished, this lavish hotel has open its doors in spring 2017. Overlooking the island of Lokrum and the Old Town of Dubrovnik, the hotel offers an outstanding location, understated elegance, and incomparable charm. Enjoying a rich 100-year history, the Hotel Excelsior has a longstanding reputation and loyal client base, having played host to some of the world’s greatest performers and royalty. Accommodation: 139 rooms and 19 suites Dining: three restaurants and one bar Conference facilities: six multifunctional rooms for up to 650 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic spa and beauty centre; beach

HOTEL BELLEV UE DUBROV NIK Completely refurbished and opened in Spring 2019, Hotel Bellevue re-emerged as an icon of private boutique luxury and design. It prides itself on its chic style, attracting a younger, funkier, and more design-savvy clientele to the city of Dubrovnik. Perched 30m above the picturesque Miramare Bay, nestled in a sandy cove overlooking the Adriatic Sea, the Hotel Bellevue sets a new standard for Croatian properties, attracting the most discerning and affluent visitors. Accommodation: 77 rooms and 14 suites Dining: two restaurants and two bars Conference facilities: two meeting rooms for up to 140 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic spa and beauty centre; pebble beach

V ILL A OR SUL A dubrovnik This new boutique hotel is just a five-minute stroll from the unforgettable UNESCO-protected Dubrovnik Old Town. Its prestigious seafront location offers spectacular sea views, while the surrounding gardens offer exclusive privacy in a secluded corner of Dubrovnik. Built in the 1930s, Villa Orsula’s gracious Oriental style architecture creates an atmosphere of exotic luxury. Accommodation: 11 rooms and 2 suites Dining: Victoria Restaurant and Lounge Bar

V ILL A AGAV E Recognised as the best way to experience the ancient and luxurious city of Dubrovnik, Villa Agave is one of the most exclusive villas on the Mediterranean. With an atmosphere of relaxation, comfort, and informality, Villa Agave is a three-bedroom, 270 m 2 summer house overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Surrounded by five terraces, Villa Agave offers exceptional privacy and breath taking views across the bay of the Old Town of Dubrovnik and the Island of Lokrum.

V ILL A SHEHER E Z A DE Vila Sheherezade was built in the early 1920s. Its outstanding white stone architecture makes it one of Dubrovnik’s protected historic sites. The legend behind this marvellous villa, about a great love manifested in the form of a monument, resembles the story of the Taj Mahal. This architectural masterpiece, surrounded by colourful gardens of palm and cypress trees includes over 4,200 m2 of exuberant greenery, creating a charming and unique atmosphere.

e s c a p e COLLEC T ION GR A ND V ILL A A RGENTINA Just minutes from the gates of Dubrovnik’s Old Town, Villa Argentina was built as a gilded private residence at the beginning of the 20th century and was converted into a five-star hotel complex in the 1950s. Overlooking the blue Adriatic Sea and nearby island of Lokrum, the hotel is just a short walk from the Old Town of Dubrovnik, providing the ideal starting point for exploring this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accommodation: 127 rooms and 4 suites Dining: two restaurants and three bars Conference facilities: three meeting rooms for up to 200 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic wellness and spa centre, outdoor swimming pool, deck beach

HOTEL DUBROV NIK PA L ACE Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, a luxury five-star resort, opened in May 2004 and renovated in 2014. Revered for its multifaceted approach to lavish holiday escapes, Dubrovnik Palace offers a full range of activities and facilities for couples and business travellers. Celebrated as Europe’s finest five-star resort for 2011, the Hotel Dubrovnik Palace was also the proud winner of two World Travel Awards for two consecutive years – Croatia’s Leading Hotel and Croatia’s Leading Spa Resort. Its wellness and spa centre, conference rooms, superb gastronomy, and spectacular terraces with breath taking sea views make it the first choice for a memorable, luxurious stay. Accommodation: 271 rooms and 37 suites Dining: four restaurants and three bars Conference facilities: eleven conference and meeting rooms for up to 750 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic spa and beauty centre, three outdoor swimming pools, PADI diving centre, tennis court, beach, jogging paths and walking routes.

HOTEL CROATI A CAV TAT Located a pleasant 20-minute drive from historic Old Town Dubrovnik, near the picturesque village of Cavtat, Hotel Croatia Cavtat is the leading 5-star resort and conference hotel on the southern Adriatic. Built to demanding specifications allowing Hotel Croatia to blend seamlessly with its natural surroundings, it is the ideal destination for relaxation or business. The hotel serves

as a convenient base for exploring Dubrovnik, the crown jewel of the Adriatic. Accommodation: 480 rooms and 7 suites Dining: four restaurants, four bars, night club Conference facilities: ten conference and meeting rooms for up to 850 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic wellness and spa centre, beach, outdoor swimming pool

HOTEL KOMPA S dubrovnik All new 4- star hotel opened in August 2015, the charming Kompas is located in the most peaceful and calm neighbourhood of Dubrovnik, the beautiful Lapad Bay. Less than 4 km from the Old Town city centre - away from summer crowds, Hotel Kompas enjoys one of the best positions in Dubrovnik. Thanks to its proximity to the sea and the beach, its ideal location in a quiet area, hotel Kompas has become one of the most popular places to spend summer holidays in Dubrovnik. Accommodation: 170 rooms and 3 suites Dining: Sphere Restaurant & Lounge Bar and Zenith bar Conference facilities: conference room for up to 400 people Wellness and recreation: Energy Clinic wellness and spa centre, outdoor and indoor swimming pool

V ILL A GL AV IĆ dubrovnik Villa Glavić is an historic three-storey building, with 21 rooms, offering complete privacy and beautiful sea views. The location of the hotel makes it convenient for trips into Dubrovnik, to learn of its colourful history, to dine in its many restaurants or to shop in the boutiques of the walled city.

u n w i n d COLLEC T ION HOTEL ODISEJ mljet Hotel Odisej is a three-star hotel in the heart of the Mljet National Park, on the Island of Mljet. It is a perfect place for nature enthusiasts, history buffs; those who like to explore the myths of ancient times or scuba diving fans. If you are looking for a secluded island retreat, where time stands still, the island of Mljet makes a perfect choice. Accommodation: 153 rooms and two suites Dining: two restaurants and three bars Wellness and recreation: Children’s swimming pool; fitness studio; hiking and biking trails; diving centre

HOTEL SUPETA R cavtat Hotel Supetar is a comfortable 3-star hotel ideally situated for a family holiday in the centre of the charming historic town of Cavtat, a typical Dalmatian seaside town with harmonious architecture. The hotel is just steps away from the beach and offers guests a more intimate setting to enjoy their Adriatic vacation. Old Town Dubrovnik is a pleasant 20-minute drive away. Accommodation: 28 rooms Dining: restaurant and bar