All or none

Why vol-biv in the Himalayas is pure teamwork

Fred Souchon, Marc Gallien and Martin Beaujouan set out from the Indo-Nepalese border heading west. They wanted to fly a still-unexplored route at the heart of the Himalayan ridge towards Zanskar. The bivouac cross-country flight held unexpected challenges for the team because feelings and personal decisions must be respected in every expedition. Martin reports.

Inhospitable valleys in the Munsiyari region. Nanda Kot in the background.

I am very motivated to explore one of the remotest valleys on earth while hanging under a piece of cloth from a few lines.

Martin Beaujouan

After a couple of hours of steep climbing we reach Munsiyari. An imposing snow-covered Nanda Devi towers in the distance. At 7,816 metres it is the highest mountain in the Indian part of the Himalayas. A short break, then we lift off from our high-altitude take-off place. The villagers wave us farewell. We’re in upbeat mood, looking forward to our Zanskar adventure. In a few minutes we reach 4,000 metres. It’s distinctly cooler up here. Slowly we work our way along the ridge towards the west.

Flying as a threesome has its difficulties. It’s almost impossible for the three of us to make equal progress in the same thermal, so it takes some time to cross each saddle as a group. Then the search for a landing and bivouacking site begins; but where? The valley below is extremely deep, options very limited. We fly over one saddle and discover an east-facing clearing on the slope. It could work. Today this landing place is actually in the lee, but tomorrow it will definitely make a good take-off spot.

Crash landings in the lee Marc goes straight for it. He battles with the leeside approach – and throws down a crash landing on the slope. That was a real challenge – no question. Fred and I are still high in the air. I’m even soaring the other side, but we have agreed to stay together, so we will all land down there. A strong headwind of 25 km/h is blowing over the ridge. We find the corresponding strong sink in the lee side. I manage to catch the upwind component of the rotor and flare on the only flat area available. Done it! It doesn’t go so well for Fred. He lands in downwash, the force of the impact increased by the weight of his equipment. “That was a damned hard landing”, Fred admits to me later. “It really hurt.” The next morning his foot is blue and really swollen. We cannot fly further. We spend the whole day down-climbing 1,200 metres through trackless country to reach the nearest village. By taxi and on foot we reach the hospital three days later. The diagnosis is shattering: Fred has broken his ankle.

The Himalayas have everything to offer, from steppe-like landscape to deep snow glaciers.

Zanskar – all or nothing For Fred the adventure is over. Marc and I change our plan. Train and aeroplane have brought us directly to the icing on our Himalayan vol-biv adventure cake: Zanskar. Our take-off spot lies picturesquely at the place where the Zanskar valley meets the Indus. The landscape is simply grandiose. Every shade of brown-grey earth tone, green poplars and coloured prayer flags contrast impressively with the deep blue sky. With 30 kilos of water in our packs we take off, with the intention of crossing one of the remotest high-mountain regions by air. Conditions are challenging. The valley, which extends for hundreds of kilometres ahead of us, is very narrow. a flying mistake or a misjudgement of the weather. Even so, I am highly motivated to explore one of the remotest valleys on earth while hanging under a piece of cloth from a few lines. Marc, on the other hand, seems only now to be realising what bivouac flying in the Himalayas really means. “What’s up, Marc?“ But I can guess. “My trip ends here; I’m flying back to Leh”, he answers.

Marc seems uncertain. I take the initiative and set course. Marc stays in the thermal. He continues to circle in a neutral spot, without gaining height. What’s his problem? The last few days have played on our nerves. Now and then doubts have arisen. There’s the concern of injury, or worse; of

The diagnosis is shattering: Fred has broken his ankle.

Martin Beaujouan

Sunset mood on the way to Manali.

Fred’s injury and Marc’s decision highlight the limits and risks of bivouac flying.

Martin Beaujouan

Flying alone as an option? I try to suppress my disappointment. Part of me is fired up for this adventure. The opportunity to fly in this place can’t be abandoned just like that. But Marc has the stove and cooking pot in the back of his harness – without hot water there’s no proper food! A selfish thought, admittedly; then I think of my pregnant wife Aurélie, waiting for me at home. A solo flight in the Zanskar valley has the potential to mess up my family life considerably. My gaze takes in the stunning high mountain panorama, here at the roof of the world. Then I also turn and head for Leh.

Back to civilisation We decide to spend the remaining days of our three-week trip in the paragliding mecca of Bir, travelling there by minibus. On the last section of this arduous journey I fly from the 3,978 metre Rohtang Pass. When in Bir, the popular 200 km triangle is a must. Just splendid! Finally we summon up the courage to make another short vol-biv towards Manali and back. For a time we circle in the sky with vultures. An especially inexperienced one flies dangerously close to me – and instantly gets itself tangled in my lines. I look up – my heart racing. The majestic bird struggles, feathers flying. A few seconds later he escapes, unharmed. Phew, that was close! The memory of this trip will stay with us for some time.

There were no distance records during our bivouac adventure in India, but plenty of adventure. Fred’s injury and Marc’s decision highlight the limits and risks of bivouac flying. And when you’re travelling as a team, the feelings and decisions of each individual has to be respected. When it works it’s magical! If it doesn’t work, then you always have a reason to try again.

About

Fred Souchon Fred is a keen paraglider pilot, alpinist and qualified mountain guide. He works as a professional mountain rescuer in Chamonix. He has crossed Kyrgyzstan by bivouac flying. Martin Beaujouan Martin is a paragliding instructor and runs a flying school. He vol-bivouacked across Kyrgyzstan with Fred. He has flown 2,700 km through Chile and Peru with Antoine Girard. Marc Gallien Marc has been flying since the 1980s and has worked as a flying instructor ever since. He was a member of the first attempt to fly from the 6,768 metre Huascaran in Peru.

Film

youtu.be/YKB8a6zZsII

Equipment

Hard landing in the lee. Fred’s ankle is broken.

OMEGA X ALPS 2 LIGHTNESS 2

The team reach a hospital after three days, and Fred gets proper treatment.