Above the Glacier Sea

Happiness in the mountains

The 4,274m high Finsteraarhorn towers majestically above a unique glacier world at the heart of the Swiss Alps, far from any traces of civilisation. During the final phase of their X-Alps preparations Chrigel Maurer, Patrick von Känel and Sepp Inniger grabbed an opportunity that doesn’t present itself every day. They were able to soar from ridge to ridge, making their way to the Finsteraarhorn, and then fly over the top. This is a story where spontaneity and some luck combine to make an unforgettable day’s flying.

This was the best flight of my piloting career – to date

The three enjoy a wonderful evening flight before dessert.

No, it wasn’t planned to fly over the top of the Finsteraarhorn (4,273m), the highest peak of the Berner Oberland. Actually, Chrigel wanted to make a mountain tour to the Mönch (4,107m) with Patrick and Sepp, then glide down to the valley from this peak. This would be something nice to do immediately before the start of the 2019 X-Alps – collect some positive energy, tank up on power for the approaching race; simply enjoy a great flight with friends. But it all turned out differently.

Happiness in the mountains The three took the last train to the Jungfraujoch, and hiked along to the Mönch hut (3,650m). During supper they joked about how nice a sundowner flight would be: for once not in front of the Then it just happened – the dream. There was no planning, but suddenly the wind was on. The dream became reality, the moment seized. The three decided to head out for a soaring session between main course and dessert. They laid out right next to the hut, took off and soared until the sun disappeared. “That was the nicest flight of my flying career so far”, said Sepp. “It wasn’t that long, but to be able to soar so high in the evening was really an indescribable feeling.”

famous three Swiss Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau giants, but directly behind them in this remote glacier world, working their way upwards in the wind. To watch the sun slowly disappear behind the summits, land and return to the hut for dessert. A dream: a dream of any pilot…

It can be different… During dessert there was the weather check for the next day. Strong north east wind. Too strong to take off from the Mönch (4,107m), and from the wrong direction anyway. That ended the dream of a morning glide down to the valley. After a brief moment of despondency, they came up with

A landing out on the glacier sea could be fatal.

a new plan. “We decided to climb up to the Walcher ridge instead and fly north from there into the valley”, remembers Chrigel. They set out for the take-off at 6 the next morning. The first rays of sun were already visible. The sunlight still felt cold, but the cloudless blue sky and climbing yellow ball were encouraging. Anticipation of the flight built, and a second breakfast awaited way down below.

…from what you think Pull up, lift off, glide. Float down to the second breakfast – or perhaps not? It’s working already – we are climbing – and it’s working well! Within 12 hours of creating the new plan the pilots have to revise it again. The wind up here on this early morning is perfect. Without discussion, Chrigel, Patrick and Sepp head southwards along the Fiescherhorn group. Early morning soaring. They gain height. The sun makes its way further above the horizon, now sharing its heat. With the wind behind them their route high above the ridge takes them towards the Finsteraarhorn (4,274m). This is one of the most remote places in Switzerland. A landing on the glacier below could be fatal. Not just because of the immensely deep and sometimes hidden crevasses between the ice blocks, but also the isolation. On foot it would take a whole day to reach the refuge hut (if you were so lucky), says Chrigel. Their current altitude quickly sweeps away such negative thoughts. They fly over the summit together. The cross on the top looks tiny, the individual blocks of the glacier no longer discernible. A single white ocean. The view over the Swiss mountain world makes the mind wander, dreaming, and then back to the altitude: 4,400 metres above sea level, at 7 in the morning. Incredible!

On foot it would take a whole day to reach the refuge hut at the edge of the glacier.

Chrigel Maurer

They leave the hut early, and want to fly at first light.

Flying together, without expecting anything. An unbelievable flight.

Patrick von Känel

In retrospect, Patrick was fascinated by the fact that, above all, “we were able to cruise without problem, quite unexpectedly, high over the Finsteraarhorn as if this was completely normal. For this incidental group of pilots, three friends without any expectations, to have been so randomly rewarded by the chance coming-together of place and weather was something rather special.” Sepp said: “The Finsteraarhorn flight certainly topped the previous evening’s delightful surprise. Difficult to believe! My two best flights, by far. A privilege to experience such a thing. Just pure enjoyment. Pure joy.”

Seize the moment The conclusion? “Today’s addiction to communication and technology means we often feel the need to plan and control every instant of time. But spontaneous decision-making, the ability to adapt instantly to circumstances, is even more important. Take spontaneous coincidences on board and enjoy them”, is Chrigel’s advice. From a risk-averse easy-gliding pilot’s point of view this flight was beyond superlative. An unplanned experience which no one can take away from you. The changing weather was spontaneously accepted and made use of. Out with the planned, safety-guaranteed plan, and in with the new adventure. An adventure right here at home, in amongst these Swiss 4000m giants: lonely and impossibly impressive. Chrigel remembers similar situations during his previous six X-Alps exploits: “There are situations where you don’t understand what’s going on. But if it’s going up, it’s going up. Don’t debate too long whether it is thermal or dynamic. Adapt to the situation and don’t try to adapt it to suit yourself.”

About

Chrigel Maurer A week after flying over the Finsteraarhorn the Eagle of Adelboden laid the foundation stone for his 6th successive X-Alps victory by landing on the Titlis turnpoint. With this spectacular and rare feat he once more demonstrated his superhuman instinct for alpine flying. Patrick von Känel The Frutigtaler is a qualified forestry manager and works at ADVANCE as a test pilot. He is also a successful competition and cross-country pilot. In 2019 Patrick also took part in the X-Alps as the youngest competitor. By arriving in eighth position at the Monaco goal he has fulfilled one dream. Sepp Inniger Sepp is an ambitious mountaineer and paraglider pilot. He was Patrick von Känel’s supporter in the X-Alps 2019. Just a few weeks later he stood together with Patrick and Chrigel Maurer on the winners’ podium for the Eiger-Challenge in Grindelwald.

Film

youtu.be/0yVChUVF0qk

Equipment

OMEGA XALPS 3 LIGHTNESS XALPS 2019

The Omega XAlps wings glide majestically over the white landscape.

Chrigel, Sepp and Patrick land in time for a second breakfast.

Adapt to the situation and don’t try to adapt it to suit yourself.

Chrigel Maurer