{
6856m
}
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Ama Dablam is sometimes called the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalayas’ and for good reason. It is one of the most eye-catching and stunning peaks you will ever see. Viewable from several sections of the trek to Everest base camp, it tempts people back to climb it every year. It is a relatively technical climb, reaching 6856m above sea level and requires significant mountaineering experience to climb. If you are reading this information pack, you have doubtless seen several tantalising pictures and read several accounts of Ama Dablam – and it is under your skin!
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This is a technical climb at high altitude and will appeal to any experienced mountaineer wanting to climb a stunning peak, in a stunning location with views to match! Whilst fixed ropes help safeguard progress, one should not underestimate the effects of exposure, climbing at altitude and the difficulties of technical climbing in this environment. You need to be able to climb alpine standard ‘AD’ routes involving rock, ice and mixed ground. You should also be confident with rope work such as abseiling. Previous experience using fixed ropes is not essential as we teach this during the trip, but familiarity with rock/ice climbing technique and rope work is highly recommended. We will need to see a resume of your climbing experience before you can join this trip. ABILITY LEVEL: LEVEL 4 – Technical climbing proficiency and previous experience at climbing alpine AD routes as well as a knowledge of rope work and glacier travel is required. FITNESS LEVEL: C – excellent cardiovascular and endurance fitness is required for a higher altitude (6000m+) or harsh conditions. The trip’s lengthy duration requires you to be able to live for days and weeks on end in expedition conditions.
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Acclimatisation early in the trip is very important and so we have built in a gradual ascent through the Khumbu to base camp. This part of the trip is quite flexible in case some people are acclimatising slowly. MEET: The team meet in Kathmandu at our hotel on day 1. However, you will be met at the airport by your airport transfer to take you to the hotel. AMA DABLAM – TYPICAL ITINERARY Day 1: Arrive KTM, overnight at hotel. Day 2: final preparations in KTM, overnight in hotel Day. Day 3: fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2800m). Day 4: trek to Namche Bazaar (3500m). Day 5: rest/acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar. Day 6:: trek to Deboche (3700m). Day 7: trek to Pangboche - the home of our sherpa team! (4000m). Day 8: acclimatisation trek further up the Khumbu and return to Pangboche (4000m). Day 9: trek to Ama Dablam base camp (4400m). Day 10- 24: climb Ama Dablam! Day 25-26: return trek to Lukla. Day 27: Fly to KTM. Day 28: Spare day.
THE ROUTE: Ama Dablam SW ridge is the classic route to the summit and is no pushover! Our strategy for the climb will depend on the team and to make sure we are well acclimatised. Once at base camp we will review ‘fixed-rope techniques’, before embarking on several forays up the lower mountain to acclimatise and get some climbing done. We usually establish 3 camps (advanced basecamp 5400m, 5700m, 6300m) on the route to break the route up into manageable chunks before our summit attempt. Technical difficulties and exposure start to kick in a little above advanced BC (5400m) and are fairly sustained throughout the climb! Good quality fixed rope/anchors will be established to safeguard progress over technical sections and you can expect several pitches of UK Severe/VS and HVS (5.8) as well as scrambling and very narrow snow ridge sections en route to 6300m, the launch pad for the summit. Summit day is predominantly on moderate and steep snow/ice in a fantastic position and you are rewarded with an amazing view over the Himalaya including a number of 8000m peaks. Descending to basecamp involves a lot of downclimbing, as well as abseiling and we usually spend a night in a high camp on the way down.
Day 29: return flight home. NOTE: This itinerary is a guideline. We will do our best to stick to it but factors beyond our control may mean it is altered. In particular, our summit day cannot be predicted accurately due to weather conditions and so your return international flight should be flexible!
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HOW IT WORKS: We take the core ingredients of our state of the art Everest expeditions – comfortable base camp, good food, excellent Sherpas and leaders – and bring them to Ama Dablam to ensure a safe and successful trip. Our Sherpas and leaders will prepare the route (fixing rope and stocking camps) but this is a team expedition and on occasion you may need to carry a small amount of group kit, and ‘muck in’ to help keep things on an even keel. This is all part of expedition life and part of what makes it so rewarding! SHERPAS: Our Sherpas are from Pangboche and are extremely experienced (eg Padawa has summitted Ama Dablam 32 times!). They are the same crew we have on Everest, Manaslu and Cho Oyu. They speak good English and are well versed in mountaineering techniques. Over the years they have become our friends and their enthusiasm, depth of experience and natural ability at high altitude, make them a key asset to the success and safety of our expeditions. Temperatures Below BC it will be warm/hot during good weather and cooler in the evenings (light clothing). At BC in the middle of the day, in good weather it will be warm (light clothing), but in poor weather (not in the sun and at night) it will be cold (down jacket, trousers, hat etc). It can snow at this level. When above BC and moving, clothing needs will vary from just a thermal top to full down clothing as we get higher. Out of the sun and in the evenings it will be cold, requiring down clothing.
COMMUNICATIONS: There will be internet access at base camp via a satellite Bgan (ie almost broadband). A laptop will be available in base camp. You may bring your own, but they may not work at altitude/under expedition conditions. There will be a satellite phone for your use. Base camp and climber communication will be maintained with handheld icom radios with base station. This enables comms between base camp and climbers and climber to climber. POWER is from large solar panels at base camp. You will be able to recharge batteries, cameras etc, and plug in electrical appliances. MEDICAL KIT: Please see the Kit List for personal first aid kit requirements. If you are prone to an ailment then come prepared (e.g lots of allergies? Bring lots of antihistamine and skin cream). The group kit will be comprehensive and include emergency drugs for high altitude illnesses, anaphylaxis, trauma and infections. There will also be a supply of miscellaneous items to cover common ailments (strepsils, bandages, painkillers, electrolyte replacement etc). BASE CAMP: This will be as comfortable as possible given expedition conditions. You will have individual tents, with a thick foam camping mattress and a shared carpeted and heated mess tent and cook tent. Shared camp cooks includes three plentiful and tasty hot meals a day plus snacks and drinks. Seating, tables, heating and lighting. Internet and phone access (satellite phone and BGAN). A selection of DVDs. Access to solar power to recharge cameras/ipods etc. Basic shower facility. Toilet tent. DREAM-GUIDES.COM INFO@DREAM-GUIDES.COM . +44 (0) 845 564 52 19
HIGH CAMPS will be stocked with food and gas/stoves/pans by our Sherpas. Tents will be North Face VE25s and Mountain 47’s. We will be cooking for ourselves when on the mountain. You will be sharing 2 to a tent in high camps (this is still comfortable but adds extra warmth and makes team cooking easier), as tent space on the route is limited. You will need to carry your personal kit whilst climbing, along with a small amount of group kit on occasion. FOOD Between Kathmandu and base camp we will be eating in hotels, tea houses and restaurants. At base camp and above we will be eating food from our own supplies. Below is an outline list/typical menu of what we will eat. WHEN STAYING ABOVE BC: ie during the main climbing forays, breakfast, lunch and dinner will be a combination of boil-in-thebag ‘wayfarer’ type meals and snack bars (Mars, Snickers, chocolate, soft muesli bars, etc according to your taste), noodles, biscuits/cakes, soups, instant porridge, crackers, cheese spread, pate, tea/coffee, hot chocolate, cordial. There will be plenty of food. Normally appetite is diminished at altitude, but food will be stocked on the basis of a full appetite. BASE CAMP FOOD: Being close to Pangboche, fresh food supplies can be more easily maintained. As mountain guides we spend a lot of time eating ‘mountain food’ and it is important to us to have the best food practicable when in basecamp – and our cook team delivers! Breakfast:
e.g. cereals, porridge, eggs, powdered milk, bread/ toast, pancakes & syrup, sausage Lunch: e.g. A hot meal or sandwiches, cheese, jam, meat. Snack bars, cakes, biscuits. Evening: e.g. soup, rice dishes, curry, dhal, spaghetti dishes, potatoes, homemade pizza, chips etc. There will be plenty of fresh vegetables and meat every day, and puddings. Vegetables will mostly be root veg (carrots etc), cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and onions, due to storage. There will be some fresh fruit (e.g. oranges) and also tinned fruit, nuts, butter, cheese and a variety of sauces (ketchup, mustard, chilli sauce etc). Drinks include tea, coffee, infusions, cordial/tang, soda stream, hot chocolate, water. Some soft drinks and beer are available at a small cost. There will be a variety of biscuits, pringles, bars and cakes available to snack on through the day... PLEASE let us know your snack bar preferences and whether you are vegetarian or not on the booking form. Also let us know any favourite dishes, so we can stock accordingly. The snack bar stock can be supplemented in Kathmandu with western brand bars, if you anticipate eating a lot of them. The cooks are well-versed in personal hygiene and have a good repertoire of ‘western’ and local recipes eg. pizza, chips, omelettes, curry, spaghetti dishes etc. Note: much of the food is sourced locally, but some is shipped in from the UK, to provide a varied and appealing diet. WHY DREAM GUIDES? • Second to none Guide team • Second to none Sherpa team (this really is crucial to the safety and success of the trip) • State of the art Base Camp set up
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It is important to arrive in Nepal fit and healthy – so look after yourself before your expedition, don’t overdo the training, and don’t start a diet before you get here – you will lose weight at altitude and will need all your strength on the mountain, so give yourself a head start and arrive in Nepal feeling strong! Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5-12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Although all but our summit day will (hopefully!) be less than 6 hours or so, the high altitude really takes its toll (and it feels like a longer day). Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind (exercising for long periods in poor weather requires mental strength!) However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as running, cycling and gym workouts are good. The focus should be on training Cardiovascular endurance and so if in the gym, cycling/running/rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. Remember to build up your workouts over time - your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury. Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times – this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Training does not work overnight!The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years – so you should start your training at least 6 months before the expedition. Core strength is also very important and it really helps prevent injury and makes it easier to be comfortable carrying packs and living ‘rough’! Yoga and Pilates are excellent for this…
THE EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder. Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem. To avoid these problems and maximise your enjoyment of the trip, we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt as we slowly gain altitude. This is a very important part of our preparation. The itinerary is our tried and tested one that will allow all of us plenty of time to acclimatize, thus giving us maximum chance of summiting. Please note: it is very important to tell your trek leader if you have a headache or feel unwell during the trek. AMA DABLAM – KIT LIST In general, we use and endorse Mountain Hardwear products because in our experience they are excellent….so in some cases we’ve recommended particular items of their kit. If you go to a good retailer such as Snow & Rock, explain to them you will be climbing Manaslu and they will be able to advise you on what is best for you. Bring this list with you…and we recommend compiling this list sooner rather than later!
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TREKKING/TRAVELLING T-shirts trousers - trek pant/pack pant underwear & socks shorts trainers/sandals lightweight trekking boots for walk in umbrella (for rain / shade) CLIMBING CLOTHING
15.
Thick weather proof gloves (ie as used in Alps) - consider a spare pair too lightspeed/spearhead glove
16.
2 x pairs thin gloves - power stretch
17.
3 x sets of socks
18.
double plastic mountaineering boots (scarpa
vega High altitude) with overboots (forty below purple haze) or olympus mons type boot 19.
Gaiters - make sure they fit over boots - FTX
ventigaiter or ascent stretch gaiter
20.
2 x pairs Sunglasses - maximum UV protection (category 4)
21.
Goggles
22.
Neoprene facemask Boot heaters (Thermic make good ones) -
1.
2 x thermal tops (light coloured preferably)
2.
x long johns – (power stretch tight)
3. 4.
fleece trousers/salopettes soft shell/schoeller fabric trousers optional (tanglewood softshell pant)
5.
Thin fleece top - microchill zip T
23.
6.
Thick fleece top - monkey man
optional
7.
Down duvet jacket/pants - sub zero jacket and absolute zero pants
8.
Down jacket – a second down jacket is nice to have in basecamp
9.
Goretex jacket and trousers - roomy but not tent-like –argon/beryllium/xenon/pinnacle jacket and argon ice/pinnacle pants
10. Warm windproof hat - windstopper microdome 11.
Balaclava - power stretch, butter or windstopper flex balaclava
12.
Sun hat
13.
scarf/neckerchief - to keep sun off neck
14.
Big Mitts - absolute zero mitt (to fit over thin power stretch gloves)
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CLIMBING GEAR AND KIT FOR BASE CAMP 1. 30l daysack for walk in etc 2. 60+l rucksack for climbing (carrying sleeping bag, spare clothing, food, water) minimal straps, light, comfortable. Crux and macpac make good rucksacks 3. Duffel bag (useful for portering and storing kit at basecamp) 4. Trekking poles 5. Sleeping bag - down 5 seasons. Two sleeping bags are highly recommended (one to be left in high camps) - eg ghost SL (-40) for high camps, 2nd bag rated to -20 for BC. 6. Sleeping bag liner (optional) 7. Thermarest - full length 8. Karrimat/ridgerest sleeping pad (optional) 9. Water bottles - for 2l. Nalgene recommended. Platypus/camelbak not recommended except for up to BC. 10. Water bottle insulators - by outdoor research – optional 11. Pee bottle - wide necked nalgene 12. Headtorch - LED and long range bulbs. Spare lightweight one useful - petzl tikka or tikka XP 13. Sunscreen - factor 30+ 14. Lipsalve - 2 or 3 15. Penknife 16. spare batteries - lithium work better in the cold 17. wet wipes 18. footpowder 19. travel towel 20. Travel wash -to wash your smalls etc at basecamp 21. Toiletries
22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28.
Books to read iPod Insulated mug Stuff sacks/large plastic bags to keep kit dry and stored Duffel bag (useful for portering and storing kit at basecamp) Personal First Aid Kit - lots of painkillers (codeine,paracetamol, ibuprofen), diamox (for altitude sickness), strepsils, blister kit, plasters, dioralyte, immodium, antiseptic cream (savlon). 2 x courses of antibiotics recommended (for chest and bowels). Low dose aspirin to help ‘thin’ your blood (consult your doctor first) Personal Repair Kit - sewing kit, thermarest repair stuff, spare parts and adjustment tools for crampons. Spare buckles, prussik cord, duct tape. Spare boot laces
CLIMBING HARDWEAR 1. 2 technical ice axes 2. 2. Crampons - make sure they fit with overboots plus antiball plates – sturdy 12 point climbing crampons 3. Harness - adjustable waist and legloops - to fit over clothing 4. 4. 1 x jumar 5. 5. 4 metres of 8mm dynamic climbing cord 6. Belay plate (or figure 8) 7. 4 x wide gate screwgate karabiners - easy to use with gloves on 8. 4 x snap link karabiners 9. Helmet(optional, but advisable 10. 2x prussic loops 11. Ropeman (eg wildcountry) or 2nd jumar Remember hands and feet are important - keep them warm! Hand warmers can be useful.Down kit should be baffle-sewn and not sewn-through stitching.
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ascents (Padawa has summitted 32 times!) With Dream Guides you will be accompanied by those whose experience in the Himalayas is second-to-none, and to whom your safety and wellbeing are paramount. PASSPORTS AND VISAS: GUIDING RATIO: approx 1:1 sherpas or leader ABILITY LEVEL: 4 FITNESS LEVEL: C FULL COURSE PRICE INCLUDES: Dream Guides leader and sherpas, all peak/permit fees, all accommodation and food during the trek/ climb, upto 4 nights twin share hotel accommodation in Kathmandu, airport transfers and internal transport, all group climbing and basecamp supplies (eg tents, ropes, stoves etc), porterage (30kg).
Everyone visiting Nepal must have a full passport (valid for 6 months after your stay) and entry visa. You can apply for your visa in advance from the Nepalese embassy in your home country, or you can obtain one on arrival at Kathmandu airport. For this you will need a passport photo and cash (dollars are preferable, but euros & sterling are also accepted). The current price of visa on arrival is $40 for 30 days or $100 for 90 days. Up to date information is available at www.travcour. com
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: visa costs, airport taxes, any personal shipping, international flights, insurance, tips, personal equipment (eg. as per kitlist), Sherpa bonuses, costs associated with early departure, accommodation in Kathmandu outside itinerary. Drinks/snacks during trek to basecamp (outside usual meals), lunch/ evening meals in Kathmandu, satphone/Bgan usage (approx $2 per minute on the phone and $10 per MB data transfer). OUR LEADERS: Our trip to Ama Dablam will be led by Kenton Cool and supported by our trusted Pangboche Sherpa crew who we climb all our Himalayan Peaks with! Our Sherpas have each climbed Ama Dablam before (as well as multiple 8000m ascents), many with multiple
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VACCINATIONS AND HEALTH You should consult your doctor for up to date information about vaccination requirements, but we would recommend the following vaccinations: Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid and Hepatitis A. You should also discuss the management of any health concerns with your GP and bring enough medication to last the trip. We would also recommend visiting your dentist before a long trip to altitude. FIRST AID We will provide a substantial first aid kit with our trip for emergencies, but you should also bring your own personal medical kit with the following items: plasters, painkillers, rehydration salts and diarrhoea treatment (dioralyte and immodium), a broad spectrum antibiotic, antiseptic cream, antihistamine cream and tablets, diamox and any other medication you might require. It is possible to buy all of the above over the counter in Nepal.
provided and there isn’t a huge deal to spend your money on. You may wish to have the odd coke or beer, especially in Lukla, and it is a good idea to carry some cash (approx £100 worth) in the event that you need to stay in lodges or descend in an emergency. Tipping is standard in Nepal and you should allow around US$3-400 to tip the Sherpas and local staff at the end of the trip. Your leader will assist with organising and collecting this. Currently the international departure tax is 1695 rupees. INSURANCE We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue. Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the BMC - they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation. If you have any questions regarding this trip, please contact us through the website; www.dream-guides. com
MONEY AND TIPPING The Nepalese currency is the rupee, and at the time of writing £1 is equal to 112 NRs. You can bring your money in cash or travellers cheques – these are widely accepted (but not $20 travellers cheques). There are many ATM machines in Kathmandu. Whilst on trek you will not spend much money – all food is
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