Advetures mag, Issue 4 - Winter 2018

2

A Note from the Editor….

I think Winter is probably my favourite season. The outdoors become so much more dramatic and the days spent in the mountains always end up being some of the most memorable. I’m excited to crack out my ice axes and dust off my skis and spend evenings sat next to the fire examining maps and guide books, folding over pages to come back to when the conditions are right.

There’s such a variety of activities and experience in this Issue, I hope there’s something that will inspire you and that you’ll find something to learn while reading. As always, tag us in your adventures on social media, we love to hear what you’re up to.

May your adventures be snowey, your toes be warm and your stories be epic.

IF you’d like to contribute or advertise, send us an email. We’d love to hear from you

Cover Photo: Adrian Trendall Above: Hev Lewis

3

In This Issue….

4

Winter Cycling in Kyrgyzstan

P6

Crossing Kyrgyzstan’s high altitude mountain passes in winter.

P10

Alternative ski destinations you may not have considered.

P12

. Winter in the Scottish Highlands

P20

An exert from Matt’s book ’Pull of the River’

P22

Alternative adventures to have in the Pyrenees.

P28

The perfect soundtrack to a day spent on the snow.

P30

Take a moment to consider your environmental footprint.

P36

Top up your vitamin D, thaw out and enjoy some warm rock in these amazing places.

P44

Top tips and information from an amazing mountain photographer and guide.

P54

Do you know how to spot a high risk avalanche area or what to do if caught up in one?

P58

Why and How you should go ski touring.

Tim Millican

Ski Destinations Hev Lewis

Cold in the Cairngorms Alex Langfield

Pull of the River Matt Gaw

Alternative winter adventures Penny Walker

10 Tunes to Ski to Hev Lewis

Leaving Lighter Footprints Simon Ablett

Winter Sun Hev Lewis

Cuillin Camera Adrian Trendall

Spotlight on: Avalanche Safety Hev Lewis

Go Ski Touring Steve Green

5

Words and Photos by Tim Millikin

6

hen planning my round the world trip I had a large map pinned to my wall. I would use this map to plan my route and logistics which included mountain passes, visas and weather. I had planned to cross Kyrgyzstan in October which is about the earliest I could get here and was about the latest in the season that my experience and gear was up to. This would mean crossing Ala-Bel Pass and the Taldyk pass in the beginning of winter and with the passes standing at a 3125 and 3600m respectively I knew this would be the biggest challenge of the trip so far.

out that this was not enough as

“We camped in our efforts to repack the bikes and put everything away our here in a small gloves had become soaked through and we could not wear This lead to freezing hands abandoned hut them. so we quickly back tracked to the local store and bought 2 next to the nearest extra pairs of cheap cotton gloves which we could use for roadside� the morning pack down.

We then left camp and started up the mountain to find that with the sun out and the 12% gradient climbs we went from freezing to sweating. It is important to remove clothing just before you get too hot because your sweat can quickly freeze against the body making you cold once again. A good layering system is just as important when cycling as it is when hiking and it is important to manage this as you go. The first day we took it slowly and had reached about the 2000m mark before camping. We camped here in a small abandoned hut next to the roadside and although this hut gave us some protection from the wind, the temperatures were down to around -5. It is important to pack the correct gear when camping in sub zero temperatures and this is something which is difficult to do when travelling with a small budget as lightweight and effective gear is costly. Instead of buying one good and therefore expensive sleeping bag I made use of two cheap ones to achieve a similar effect and still found myself having to wear all my clothes and zip myself up so tightly that only my mouth was not covered. We were still awoken regularly from the cold and wowed to not camp any higher up the mountain as it would be too cold. This was a wise decision as we reached heights of over 3000m the night time temperature would show below -15!

It was October 22nd when Finola and I left Bishkek to take on the mountains and with smiles on our faces we left our hostel in Bishkek just as it had started to snow! We had never cycled in snow conditions before and we pushed on hoping the snow would pass, it didn't. When cycling in snow it is important to remove it regularly from your gloves and shoes because what will happen is the snow will pile up and then melt, soaking through to your hands and feet making you freezing cold if you do not stop to warm up meaning you could quickly get in trouble with frostbite or hypothermia.

We did not cycle too far that day but camped out at the start of the mountain pass, some 60km west of the city. As we slept the snow did not stop and we when we woke to did to so to find our bikes had completely frozen. The chain, the gears and brakes needed to be dosed with warm water to release them from their frozen state and the tent poles had to be massaged with gloved hands to get them to be put back into their sleeve. We only had one pair of gloves each and quickly found

7

In an effort to sleep indoors we would relay on the bunkhouses and cafes which are scattered alongside the road. This can range from a simple space on a floor to rest whist an wood burner stove keeps you warm to simple hotels including one which featured a breakfast of 5 fried eggs on a plate! The cost for this varies but we paid no more than £10 for two people and was great to see inside the local homes and meet some great local people. I remember we popped into a bunkhouse for a drink and to warm our feet and the owner invited us to take tea with him. We sat around the wood burner sharing one tea bag between three and thawing out some apples to eat. It is a real insight how tough life is in the mountain and we paid our host with a tip for showing us a glimpse into his life.

8

As we climbed higher the views just got better and better and we were often looking up at peaks of over 6000m around us. This is when being up in mountains begins to be worth all the cold and effort and we had to stop often to take it the views with our eyes wide. It shows just how beautiful this part of the world is as we took more photos here than in any of countries we had visited before. Winter cycling takes much more attention and care than summer cycling but it is really worth the effort since when I think back to those tough times it fills me with positive memories and the hardship is soon forgotten about. Alastair Humphreys puts it best when he says “it doesn't have to be fun to be fun” and this is a perfect description of winter cycling in Kyrgyzstan.

We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.

- Jawaharlal Nehru

9

Ski Destinations

Best For: Budget Breaks

Best For: Beginners

Best For: A spot of Luxury

Altitude: 925m

Altitude: 1100m

Altitude:1444m

KM Piste:70km

KM Piste: 600km

KM Piste: 180km

Located in the Pirin Mountains, Bankso is the perfect destination for a budget break. They’ve got fast lifts, cheap and cheerful restaurants and reliable snow (thanks to their network of snowmakers), not to mention the fact that you can spend a week here for around £400 self catered.

Situated in the middle of the Portes du Soleil ski area, Avoriaz offers high altitude skiing for everyone with stunning views of the Alps.

Expect a variety of pistes and skiers and snowboarders of all ages enjoying the broad, treelined runs.

An exclusive resort, often frequented by the wealthier classes, Lech hosts a number of high end chalets without losing it’s Austrian charm.

Easy access to the LechZürs, Warth and St Anton ski areas offers a wide variety of terrain and reliable snow throughout the season.

10

Best For: Off Piste Adventures

Best For: Something a bit different

Best For: Quiet Slopes

Altitude: 1042m

Altitude: 1085m

Altitude: 1224m

KM Piste: 119km (a whole

KM Piste: 50km

KM Piste: 120m

One of the more popular Japanese ski resorts, Nozawa Onsen is famous for it’s traditional Japanese culture and hot springs, as well as it’s variety of skiing and connections to other ski resorts. 10m of snowfall each year means the chances of fresh powder days are pretty good too.

One of Italy's more fashionable resorts, the town can be buzzing but the slopes remain quiet with few queues for lifts and uncrowded slopes. With many people opting to visit for the scenery, shopping and late lunching, the quiet days skiing don’t mean a quiet apres-ski.

lot more off piste)

With lifts up and down the valley taking skiers and boarders into some stunning, wild places, the Chamonix valley has something for everyone.

There are numerous companies offering off piste days or multi day trips, with the Vallée Blanche being an off-piste bucket list essential.

11

efore last winter, I was not overly excited by the prospect of the Cairngorms. They were not anywhere near the top of my Scottish mountain bucket list, despite containing five of the highest six mountains in the UK. This is because they are not the spiky, pointy, ridgey mountains that you get in the west, but huge, undulating, rolling hills lacking in “distinctive features”. More Carneddau than Glyderau.

More Skiddaw than Scafell. More Mont Blanc than Matterhorn.

If you have any sort of interest in the mountains, I would highly recommend joining a mountaineering club. Five months earlier, I had joined one of my local clubs, primarily with the intention of gaining experience of winter mountaineering. This year’s winter club meet was in the Cairngorms, staying in Feshiebridge near Aviemore.

I put my reservations to one side and signed up. My scepticism soon proved not only to be misguided but downright foolish. As I quickly discovered, the Cairngorms are breath-taking, ethereal, staggeringly beautiful, savage, vast and like nowhere else in the UK.

12

13

I spent four days in the Cairngorms and have separate tales to tell for each one, but for the purposes of brevity I shall recount only day two in any sort of detail. continue in a sort of blissful haze. With my many layers, I am insulated from the severe Day one was an ascent of the spectacular cold outside. It is as though the mountains Fiacaill Ridge. My first impressions of the are putting on a performance and I have Cairngorms were of white. I'm not talking been invited into their midst to spectate. It about white like the dustings of snow that is not a technical ascent, it is not a sublime you get in the Lakes and in Snowdonia, but airy ridge, I can’t even really see many white. White like the Arctic. White as other mountains around, but this is one of though the mountains are actually made of the most remarkable ascents that I can snow. The other overriding memory of that remember. first day is one of cold. Half an hour into the hike, having sorted out my crampons Things just keep on getting better. As I and readied my ice axe, I went for a sip reach the top of the spur the Cairngorm from the water tube running from my plateau is laid out before me in all of its hydration pack. It was completely frozen. white glory. Visibility is much improved Completely frozen. I have been into the from the day previous and I can see for mountains countless times in winter and some distance across towards the giants of have never had this issue. It is cold out Ben Macdui and Breariach. That’s not to there. say there aren’t clouds intermingling with the plateau, giving the impression that I As a matter of fact, the Cairngorms hold truly am in the sky. I watch a cross the record for the lowest ever recorded country skier progress into the distance, temperature in the UK: -27.2 degrees into that magical world, and I feel a pang if centigrade. That day, the effect of the wind envy. Soon they’re dwarfed by the chill was supposed to make it feel like -21. immensity of it all, just a tiny black speck in It felt brilliantly adventurous. The cold. The the distance. ridge. The white. But day one was only a taste of what was to come.

Cairn Gorm summit itself is the antithesis of the classic mountain form. This is no The next day, I set off for the summit of pointed Sgurr or Stob, no Catstycam, no Cairn Gorm alone. There is an exhilaration Steeple, no Tryfan. However, like Skiddaw in the freedom of being alone in the in the Lake District or Carnedd Llewellyn in mountains. Today this feeling is particularly Snowdonia, Cairn Gorm is a noble summit acute as I make my ascent through fierce who’s height demands reverence. cross winds that whip up the recently fallen Getting to the 1244 metre high summit snow. The sun is illuminating the scene the sixth highest in the UK - is merely a brilliantly. As I look around in awe, I count gentle walk up a snowy, domed hill. But, as myself as one of the luckiest men in the you do it, turn around occasionally and just World. The scene is so dynamic, like look! A group of ten mountaineers is nothing I’ve experienced in Britain. I mean following me, casting faint shadows on the look at it. Look where I am! porcelain surface, menaced by the distant Though the ascent is fairly unrelenting, I profile of the Fiacaill Ridge. Superb.

14

15

I gain the summit, where a small weather station is prisoner to the cold’s icy grip. First, I wander to the east and look out over Bynack More and its satellites. Next, I find my way to a cairn offering shelter from the now bone deep cold. I am, after all, in the one of the coldest places and officially the windiest place in the UK. On March 20, 1986, wind speeds of 173mph were recorded on this summit, the strongest ever recorded on our island.

Glorious, cold minutes are spent on the summit before descending. I meet up with some others from the club and we head into the Cairngorm Plateau, behind Cairn Gorm. It is a magical place.

Like a fairy tale. There is simply no sign of human influence. Every footstep is into fresh, pristine snow. There is a constant susurrus, the sound of the loose snow gliding across the consolidated snow beneath. The sun is illuminating it all. It is a feast for the senses.

We make for two obvious but nameless high points on this part of the plateau. The first is a glorious platform overlooking the crags of Carn Etchachan, an impressive squat pyramid that puts me in mind of the Buachaille Etive Mor, only on a smaller scale. What strikes me here is that this is a mountain that no car borne enthusiast would ever lay eyes up. This is a mountain beyond the reach of road or rail. This is a mountain as mountains should be. A secret mountain.

16

On the return, yet another spectacle is thrown at us. Where earlier the spindrift had been gentle and ethereal, now it is a violent tide of swirling particles. The closer we get to the top of the spur that leads down to the car, the stronger the wind is and the more it appears that we are not walking on solid ground at all. It is as though we are walking on cloud.

Yet another surprise awaits as we crest the spur and see that the wind has whipped away all but the hardiest of the snow from the wide ridge. Where this morning all was white, now wind scoured naked rock is all that is left. The wind is ferocious and we grasp our ice axes to use for support as we carefully descend. Further down, the ridge looks as though it is erupting, as misty snow is launched into the sky by the wind. The hills are alive, indeed. Who knew such sights were possible in Britain?

When we finally arrived back to our lodgings for the night, we were not aware that some of our fellow club members were at the beginnings of an epic. An epic, in mountaineering terms, is where things start to go wrong, the conditions turn, you are on the mountain longer than you intended and you have to battle against the elements, the mountain, the dark, navigation problems and your own deficiencies just to get back down. The four-strong team would eventually get back to the lodge after midnight. A difficult pitch on Corie an t-Sneachda had meant they had not topped out until long after dark. They had then had to navigate their way off the mountain in horrendous conditions whilst tired and in the dark. After their return, conditions worsened and a colossal amount of snow fell through the night.

17

In the two days that followed, I climbed to Creag Dhubh above the Rothiemurchus Forest and hiked a low level route to the Ryvoan Bothy towards Nethy Bridge. Both days were rich in experience and further cemented the hold that this incredible area now had upon me.

After all, the Cairngorms had proved me wrong. These are mountains quite unlike anything else in the UK. The sheer vastness and openness of the landscape, coupled with its dynamism and ethereal beauty make it a marvel to savour. Yet, like a siren, this beauty

18

comes with a danger for the unaware, for those thralls lost in a dumbstruck haze. I can now recall many moments over my time in the Cairngorms that I had found myself in such a state, losing myself in the beguiling natural performance that the mountains perform, conducted by the savage elements. In this state, it is easy to forget the distances, the cold, the fact you are in the grip of nature should it decide to squeeze. For such rounded mountains, the Cairngorms have some edge.

Alex is passionate about the mountains of Britain. You can follow his adventures at alexrambles.com, on Instagram @alexrambles and on his YouTube channel Alex Rambles.

19

The Pull of The River

20

here has been a frost, the first of the year.

It furs the car, dusts leaves with iron filings of ice and scribbles across the bottom of the Pipe as she lies beached in the garden, leaving a snail-trail of cold that blends with the scratches and scrapes collected from her river adventures. Her battle scars. We slide her over to the car and perform a knee-trembling snatch-lift onto the roof rack before wiping wet hands on trousers and checking our gear. Paddles.

Buoyancy aids. Thermos. Boiled eggs…

towards the river’s first bend. The wind, the first taste of a storm that is forecast to hit tomorrow, funnels down the seaward stretch of the Alde and forces lumps of water under the Pipe. They hit hard, like speed bumps.

The Alde is comparatively short, with less than 20 miles separating its source in Laxfield (close to where Suffolk’s Blyth also bubbles into life) and its mouth near Orford, where it becomes known as the Ore. Yet in some ways it feels like the biggest river we have explored so far. As we paddle into the winter sun, the whole horizon shimmers. The water, the acres of mud, the beaches and soggy spits all gleam, all ripple with light. It’s hard to tell where the river stops and the land begins.

We arrive at Aldeburgh an hour after low tide, the slack water already gathering for another push inland. To our left the Martello Tower sticks up like a half-built sandcastle between the Alde and the North Sea, the largest and most northerly of a chain of towers built to stop Napoleon. Beyond that, on the widening spit of land that noses into the North Sea, is the Orford Ness National Nature Reserve. A former Atomic Weapons Research Establishment, its wind-and salt-blasted buildings now look out on a fragile beauty: 2,000 acres of grazing marsh, reed marsh, brackish lagoons and vegetated shingle supporting hundreds of rare species. We unload, half-carrying, half-skidding the Pipe down the yacht club’s seaweed-fringed slipway, eager to get underway. The knocking masts of the boats, dry-docked for winter, ring out loud in a gin-clear sky. A lone man works on one of them, sanding down a hull calloused with barnacles, his radio tootling and burbling.

With the tide still not completely with us we decide to take a break and allow the water to gather. We get the Pipe up to what James calls ‘ramming speed’ and beach ourselves on a shingle spit that spears out into the water. But these are no stones. It is a mass of shellfish and crab, a great, grey beach of shells, clam and carapace; a huge graveyard of mussels, spattered with barnacles and mud. It’s impossible to stand in any one place for long without sinking down to the ankles, so we drink our tea on the move, taking crunching steps round tiny blue lagoons of trapped water. James, stomping theatrically over a pile of broken shell, says it reminds him of a grisly scene from Terminator 2 in which robotic feet smash through the burnt remains of human skulls.

We head out straight, the canoe’s nose pointing

Extract taken from THE PULL OF THE RIVER by Matt Gaw A Journey into the Wild and Watery Heart of Britain £14.99 hardback “A beautifully written début exploring nature, place and friendship, and an ode to the great art – and joy – of adventure.“

21

Alternative Winter

Adventures

It's hard to suppress that frisson of excitement and anticipation as I catch a glimpse of the first snows on the high mountains of the Pyrenees.

This unspoilt mountain range forms the natural border between France and Spain and is a year round playground for the outdoors adventure lover. Blissfully untouched by mass tourism, the mountains have an authenticity and low-key vibe that is hard to find in other more expansive mountain ranges.

The central Pyrenees is where you’ll find the highest concentration of 3000m peaks. It's therefore no surprise that there are several ski resorts in the area including Peyragudes, Luchon Superbagneres and the small but perfectly formed le Mourtis resort. They're all wonderfully family friendly and offer skiing and snowboarding for all levels.

22

However, not everybody is a fan of skiing or snowboarding, myself included. Despite having called the Pyrenees my home for over 11 years I've never clicked with the concept of entrusting my life to two planks strapped to my feet.

I am however a huge lover of those cold, crisp, snowy, blue sky days when the mountains are screaming 'come out to play'!

Thankfully there is a whole world of alternative winter adventures to be enjoyed in the Pyrenees mountains that won't cost a fortune, require minimal equipment and satisfy not only the needs of the adrenaline seeker but also those who prefer more laid back winter adventures.

23

Airboarding Airboarding is this winter's no. 1 activity for lovers of fast and furious snowy adventures, although it's a sport that you have probably never heard of.

The airboard is a kevlar-coated inflatable cushion with two handles positioned at the front. The idea is that you position yourself face down and use simply your body position and feet to control your fast and furious descent down a dedicated in-resort ski slope.

It's totally bonkers and may include jumps and slalom courses, making it a great fun activity for competitive families or groups of mates. Challenge each other to the fastest descent and try not to fall off at the bottom in hysterics!

Airboarding is definitely one of those addictive alternative winter sports that will leave you wanting more.

Winter canyoning If you think descending the icy waters of a river that flows down from the high mountains is a ridiculous idea, you're in for a surprise. Thanks to the fully insulated top to toe neoprene drysuit that you'll wear for the activity, it's not half as crazy as it sounds!

With only your face exposed, you remain toasty warm as you abseil down ice-laden waterfalls and slide down snow covered rocks into deep pools of crystal clear mountain water.

The challenge of this unique winter activity really is more mental than physical. You can be reassured that expert local guides know just the right rivers for a safe winter descent and ensure you'll have an unforgettable and exhilarating experience.

Fatbiking Fatbikes are a whole heap of fun in the snow. Their super wide, super grippy tyres are perfectly adapted to the compacted snow of the ski slopes.

This in-resort activity is reserved for the end of the day, once the skiers have enjoyed their last runs.

In the company of a local guide, you'll be let loose down the slopes and discover just what fun can be had on two fat wheels!

It's actually a lot more challenging than you may think and keeping control as your speed picks up requires quite some skill.

Venture off piste and the fun escalates to another level. But thankfully the OTBs have a soft landing even if your pride may take a bit of a bruising!

24

25

Snowshoeing The number one winter activity for those seeking peace and wild beauty has to be snowshoeing.

Call on the services of a local guide to show you an off the beaten track winter wonderland that would be inaccessible on skis. The chances are the only tracks you'll see are those of wildlife such as deer, foxes and maybe, just maybe, a brown bear lured from its den by the first rays of early Spring sunshine.

Snowshoeing is a surprisingly physical sport, although the heel riser bars that are fitted to modern snowshoes help no end on those steep snowy climbs. Your efforts are rewarded with the most breathtaking winter landscapes, so rest awhile and enjoy that flask of hot chocolate before making your way back to base.

Ski touring If you're an experienced skier who's looking for an alternative winter adventure, forget the groomed slopes and instead put your trust in the hands of a local high mountain guide for an away-from-it-all ski touring adventure.

You'll head into the back-country, away from the hum of the mechanical lifts, using only your own legs and lungs to reach heights of which others may only dream. With skins on the base of your skis and a pack on your back, prepare for a workout as you head out into the great snowy unknown.

Skin up to a mountain ridge and soak in those as-far-as-the-eye-can-see snowy mountain views before stripping off the skins and enjoying that hard-earned breathtaking descent on untouched powder, back down to the valley below.

26

Winter paragliding For the ultimate away-from-it-all viewpoint, head to the skies on a tandem paragliding flight this winter.

Jumps take place from the ski resorts with qualified local professionals who are experienced in judging the conditions for the safest flights.

Soaring like a bird in the crisp, clear mountain air with snow-covered mountains as far as the eye can see, paragliding is a breathtaking winter experience in every sense of the word.

If you're seeking an adventure holiday this winter but the thought of a regular ski holiday leaves you cold, take heart from the knowledge that there are most definitely fun-packed alternatives out there that won't break the bank.

Penny Walker is the owner of The Adventure Creators, a tour operator offering a highly personal service creating year round adventure and multi activity holidays in the Pyrenees mountains

27

28

10 tunes to ski to It’s great to enjoy the tranquillity and peace and quiet that you only get in the mountains, but if you want a soundtrack to power your turns, We’ve got a brilliantly eclectic mix just for you.

Snow

Red Hot Chilli Peppers

Let’s Dance

David Bowie

Stockholm Syndrome

Muse

Free

Rudimental (feat. Emeli Sande)

Lay it Right

Speelburg

Star Scat

Caravan Palace

99 Red Balloons

Goldfinger

X-Ambassadors

Renegades

Feel Good Inc.

Gorillaz

What’s Golden

Jurassic 5 29

utdoor enthusiasts can find ourselves in a compromised position. We are often highly attuned to the natural environment, reveling in its beauty and the joy we find in exploring it. As such, we are keen to nurture and protect it and are often active environmentalists. Yet, the various activities we pursue involve all kinds of technical clothing and equipment and, if we are not careful, we can be sucked into the very heart of the consumerism culture that is damaging the planet, ruining our playground.

simple living gurus who endorse ridding your life of clutter and minimising your possessions and I agree that in most aspects of your life this works exceptionally well. However, in the sphere of outdoor sports things aren't always that simple...

The more sports you do the more kit you need. It is rarely cheap, can wear out quite quickly and is mostly in a constant state of evolution; today's best on the market is mid range, or even worse, obsolete, in 5 years' time. But still, there are ways to keep things manageable and despite still I am guilty myself. I have been a voracious having a large garage full of kit (it is kinda my job consumer of outdoor equipment, buying the next too...), I now take a more focused, less wasteful best thing as soon as it was available, changing approach. You see, more is not always better, in items on a whim and discarding yesterday's fact the opposite is often true. When overloaded wonder kit it replaced. But over the years I've with options we can suffer from what recognised the drain this had on my life; it was a psychologists refer to as the paradox of choice; financial drain, it was an emotional drain and I the more options we are given the less satisfied was a puppet of the marketing machines, playing we become with whatever we choose because my part in the consumption game. we are dwelling on the things we missed out on.

So we need to navigate a path of just enough Advertising, marketing and other societal forces choice, just enough kit to perform, just enough to are constantly trying to convince us that buying allow us to safely enjoy our chosen outdoor new things is the answer to our problems. In sports. So here are a few coping strategies I've most walks of life, that is simply not the case and evolved over many years to avoid financial ruin, people just end up with more stuff and the same but retain high performance levels whilst problems. I listen to the strong arguments of the reducing turnover and waste...

30

31

Reduce This can be a psychological minefield! A classic example of a genuine 'need' is when something that has a functional role for you has worn out through use and a replacement is required. By contrast, a 'want' may typically be a new bit of kit which is very similar to something you have but with some updates that give small performance gains. Tempting, but the bottom line is that few of us can genuinely justify spending large amounts of cash for marginal gains, leave that to Team Sky. Use the item you already have for longer, then when it starts to wear out maybe that upgrade is now cheaper and more reliable...

There is a limit to this, and I have been prone to researching to the point of obsession, but the concept is sound. Check things out, read reviews, do the homework, and hopefully avoid wasting time and money on something that turns out to not fit/do the job/work as promised...

If you truly want to escape the consumerist trap this is the best place to start - reduce what you buy in the first place through applying these principles.

This has been a big turning point for me. Although the concept can be applied everywhere, I find its greatest impact is in my wardrobe, which has transitioned from dedicated single purpose items to flexible general purpose kit. The key is to look for similarities instead of differences; for example, is there really much variation between a jacket for running, MTB, road biking or light hiking use? There is a deeper joy to this too, as you put on your favorite, familiar, good quality base layer for cycling that yesterday you used under your drysuit, getting more wear out of versatile, quality kit.

If you are doing the above three things correctly then you aren't buying lots of kit, so invest in quality when you do purchase. Your research will have given you the info you need, decide a budget and get the best you can for that amount, knowing that it will pay you back every time you need it. Consider brands that take their environmental responsibilities seriously, paying a bit

32

So much turnover can be prevented through timely maintenance, proper cleaning and early repair action. Leaving a bike coated in mud without rinsing it off can result in seized parts after only a couple of days, especially in winter. And one of the biggest culprits is destroying clothes by washing them with normal detergent and softener; wash technical clothes, especially waterproofs, with specialist products to help them perform twice as long as they would otherwise.

Re-use We tend to throw things away too easily these days. Stuff seems cheap, when it stops working perfectly we replace it. But at what true cost, both financially to us as these things add up but also to the environment, as our attitude creates mountains of waste?

Sure, at the roadside it is quicker to change an inner tube rather than find and fix the puncture, but fix the inner tube when you get home, don't just throw it away. On everything from cycles to boats, shoes to clothes it is surprising which component parts can be fixed. A few years ago the zip broke on an expensive cycling jersey but with a cheap replacement zip fitted I am still using that top now.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, something no longer performs as it did when new and cannot fulfil its original purpose. But can it now take on a different role? I have old inner tubes wrapped neatly around chain stays instead of buying chain guards, dry bags that are no longer totally waterproof rerolled as stuff sacks within a bigger dry bag, and you'll rarely see me gardening in anything other than well worn branded mountain clothes that have taken a less demanding retirement!!!

33

“We need to navigate a path of just enough choice, just enough kit to perform, just enough to allow us to safely enjoy our chosen outdoor sports�

34

Recycle

There are lots of ways to sell things now, and you can quickly reach huge audiences online. I'd advise trying the methods that don't take a cut (Facebook, most club, retailer or magazine websites, Gumtree etc) before resorting to sites that charge you for selling (eBay etc), but making a bit of cash from gear you don't need is good for you and good for the buyer. To be most effective, don't let the unused item sit around too long; every week that passes the item is getting older, its value is dropping and the likelihood of finding a buyer is reducing. Be decisive and if you

You really don't need this anymore; it has either been replaced, or you've moved on and simply no longer enjoy off road unicycling? What next?

Some things you just won't sell. They may be too worn, too niche or simply the value you'd receive doesn't warrant the time you'd take to advertise and complete a transaction. So give them away! There are a few projects out there that specialise in finding a charitable cause that could use your old kit, such as ‘Gift Your Gear’ or ‘Alpkit Continuum Project’. For many, an old waterproof is a much better alternative to no waterproof at all...

No life left? Properly broken? Time to dispose then, ideally by recycling. Break it down to constituent parts and recycle as much as possible, maybe it will be reincarnated as the next new shiny thing you are tempted by!

Simon Ablett is an Outdoor Sports Professional and Adventure Writer who runs Live2Flow, a small company dedicated to inspiring adventure and providing high quality coaching and leadership.

35

Winter Sun

36

he weather in Spain is just too hot to climb during the Summer months, but come Autumn the beach tourists are few and the conditions are perfect for a week spent on warm rock or exploring the stunning mountain ranges on foot.

If you’re looking for stunning climbing spots, the south of Spain boasts coastal and inland crags with both trad and sport climbing for all abilities. Limestone in the Costa Blanca is complemented by cheap, off season resort accommodation, while El Chorro offers steep, multi pitch gorge climbing as well as single pitch sport. Further north , Barcelona and Catalunya offer some of the best sport climbing in Europe with a variety of rock; conglomerate mountains near Monserrat, more stunning limestone and Granite towards the Pyrenees.

If climbing isn’t your cup of tea, Spain has some beautiful mountain ranges with everything from gentle hikes through the country to dramatic sea cliffs and scrambling knife edge ridges. The mountains of the Sierras de Tejeda offer spectacular views of the Mediterranean coast and a rugged, arid landscape. The Alicante region is also surprisingly mountainous, featuring everything you need for an adventurous trip; high peaks, rocky scrambles and ridges, beautiful pools for swimming and good food and wine.

Of course, there’s also some amazing surfing destinations, such as Santander, Mundaka and Razo that don’t require the 5mm neoprene and post surf thaw many surfers endure during the British winter.

For lovers of two wheels, Majorca has a varied terrain with gentle rides through the almond groves, beaches and meadows as well as challenging journeys through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains. With it’s spectacular, dramatic and changing scenery a few days touring here will definitely lift the deepest of winter blues.

37

38

heap flights, beautiful scenery, variety and an amazing culture make Morocco a brilliant location for all year round. There’s an abundance of mountain adventures to be had, as well as exploring cities, souks and riding camels into the Sahara desert. Camp under the stars, try Sandboarding or get behind the wheel of a dune buggy.

The Atlas mountains boast 4000 meter peaks, putting snow on their peaks most of the year., making it a great destination, but not if you’re looking to escape the cold and snow of winter.

The Anti-Atlas mountains however benefit from warmer and drier conditions and boast some stunning climbing and hiking locations. The beautiful town of Tafraoute is surrounded by quartzite and granite mountain crags, and the egg shaped boulders on the valley floor make for an interesting afternoon bouldering. Just south of here lies the Ameln Valley, a long escarpment featuring hundreds of climbs including Joe Brown’s Tizgut Crack. The south facing, low lying crags mean this is a perfect spot during cooler weather. With over 2000 recorded routes in the Anti-Atlas mountains, there’s enough for a lifetime of winter climbing in this region alone.

If keeping your feet planted on the floor is more your style, the Anti-Atlas mountains have amazing day and multi day hikes, staying near Tafraoute or in small village guest houses along the way. You’ll find yourself exploring steep sided pink granite gorges, rugged peaks and beautiful villages and of course sampling plenty of local tangines.

39

n outdoor lovers paradise, New Zealand is the perfect place to escape the cold weather of Europe in favour of long days and evenings spent outside. Think well sign posted hikes, stunning sea kayaking, bungee jumping, whale watching, white water rafting, remote, well priced campsites and laid back culture. Take a pick from any of the multi-day ‘Great Hikes’, pan for gold in Arrow town, take a boat trip out onto the Milford sound or pretend you’re Frodo on his way to Mordor and take a Lord of the Rings Tour.

The Department of Conservation has a huge number of campsites that are budget friendly with no need to book meaning, once you’ve booked your flight and a cheap hire car, you can see this beautiful island without breaking the bank. The country also boasts a great hostel culture with great, quirky and homely hostels located almost everywhere.

We’d recommend: Queenstown for its adventure Culture, Nelson for its totally laid back vibe and Auckland for its Maori routes and proximity to Islands, Beaches and Mountains.

40

41

42

uch like New Zealand, South Africa has a wealth of adventure for anyone looking to escape the cold, wet winter. There’s obviously safari holidays, wine and plenty of culture, but look beyond that and there are some amazing adventures to be had while topping up on vitamin D. The warm waters around Durban and Cape town are perfect for a winter surfing trip with warm water, big waves and a thriving surf scene.

Also within throwing distance of Cape Town are some world class mountain biking trails; Tokai Forest hosts the Tokai DH trail , the lower slopes of Table Mountain feature dozens of loops, through stunning, steep and often unforgiving terrain.

Garden Route occupies the Robberg Peninsula, with mountain bike trails, multiple day hikes, stunning views across the ocean and a large seal colony to look out for.

Whether you’re an experienced kayaker or total novice, South Africa also boasts some brilliant Kayaking. The Tsitsikamma National Park’s Storms River Gorge is a must, you’ll paddle deep into the gorge through quiet pools, explore caves, and dense forest. If you’d prefer to explore the coast line, paddling alongside seals, dolphins and penguins, stay close to Cape Town or Durban and explore the cape peninsula. Watch the sun set from a remote beach or paddle from The Indian Ocean to the Atlantic which meet off the coast of south Africa. For an extended trip, look at the Dolphin Trail in the west coast. A 5 day sea kayaking expedition where you’ll often see colonies of seals and schools of dolphins along the way.

If you’re after something a bit different, there’s always shark cave diving, paragliding, white water rafting and geckoing to get the adrenaline pumping.

43

44

Photographer and mountain guide, possibly not everyone’s cup of tea but certainly my perfect job and it feels like a dream realised. True, it can be long days, out in all weathers, heavy packs to carry but it never feels like work, there’s never any Monday morning blues. In fact time and date have become meaningless and it can be difficult to keep track of what day of the week it is. It is said that variety is the spice of life and for me a typical week doesn’t exist. Summer is spent mainly guiding high in the Cuillin. The two most popular trips being the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge and climbing the Inaccessible Pinnacle which is the most technical of all the Munros. Autumn through to Spring is usually more photo orientated, the poorer weather making for atmospheric images. Also the shorter days mean clients don’t have to get up ridiculously early for spectacular sunrises or stay up late for sunsets.

45

As a photographer, I pretty much never leave home without a camera and even a trip to the shops can be rewarding. The above photo was taken after a slight diversion on the way to the shops.

Basically, I have two camera kits, one I take when guiding or climbing and one that is for more photocentric activities.

Typically, the following would be in my pack; •

Sony A7RII with Zeis Batis 25mm lens attached

•

Zeiss Batis 85mm lens

• The climbing set up is simple, relatively compact and light and fits in a simple pouch that can be worn on my chest, climbing harness or • the hipbelt of my pack. All it contains is a very old Sony A7 with a • Sony 35mm F2.8 lens, spare batteries and a lens cleaning cloth.

The larger kit includes a Sony A7RII and two prime lenses. I have close connections with Benro UK and they have provided me with a TMA28C tripod with a geared head (GD3WH) and a comprehensive set of filters. Obviously, this set up is much heavier and bulkier but offset by the fact it is for photography rather than climbing so heavy ropes and the like are left at home.

- Lots of spare batteries since the Sony gets through them fast especially in the cold - Lens cleaning cloth, spare memory cards - Benro FH100 M2 filter holder and -

•

Circular Polariser

•

- Soft graduated neutral density filters in 2,3 and 4 stops

•

- 6 and 10 stop neutral density filters

Top: Sunrise on Sgurr na Stri, Bottom: Atmospheric Sgurr na Stri

46

A personal favourite trip is to spend the night on Sgurr na Stri with it’s stunning views across Loch Coruisk to the Cuillin. Options include walking in from Sligachan which is about 12km or from Kilmarie which is shorter but can involve two river crossings. By far the easiest is to catch the Misty Isle boat from Elgol and then a one and half hour walk should see you on the summit.

Even if the weather isn’t perfect, it’s still a very atmospheric place to be for both walkers and photographers.

Light, Cameras, Action Photographers on the summit of Sgurr na Stri as bad weather closes in with the Island of Rum just about to disappear as a storm approaches.

An alternative to camping is the hut (owned by the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland) at the base of Sgurr na Stri and within a short walk of where the Misty Isle lands. A well equipped kitchen, solar powered lighting, filtered water and comfy beds make this a great place for photographers. Not only is it surrounded by stunning mountain scenery but is a great place for wild life; hundreds of seals in the loch, deer grazing literally by the windows of the hut and the chance of seeing golden eagles.

47

My partner, Bridgette, and I run a small company called All Things Cuillin that provides bespoke photography workshops and pride ourselves in offering experiences from the roadside to the mountain top. You don’t have to be super fit and we visit many places very close to the road so there is scope for all ages and fitness levels. At the other end of the scale some photographers want to go high especially for the sunrise and/or sunset.

Whenever I’m out with clients then I’ll have a camera with me. Clients love the photos and they provide material for posts on social media and to show people what conditions are like in the Cuillin.

Safety is obviously the priority when high on the hills with clients so many shots are just grabbed on the hoof. Hopefully they convey something of the excitement and the environment even if they aren’t technically perfect.

48

49

The Magic of the Golden Dawn For a fleeting few seconds tantalising golden rays lit the ice covered Bhasteir Tooth

The Bhasteir Tooth photo was a long time in the making. I had long envisioned being there at dawn as the sun rose and lit the tooth but despite many visits, things had never really come together. Too much or too little cloud, forecast and reality not matching up. Last winter I headed up there at zero dark thirty, taking a couple of hours to arrive in place after climbing the hill in the dark through deep snow.

The first time I did this, the sun was totally obscured by dense clouds, the second time, no cloud meant the unfiltered sunlight was very harsh. But it was definitely a case of third time lucky when everything came good but only for a fleeting moment. I took 4 photos but only the first two really captured the intense glow before the sun rose and lit everything. Right place, right time so to a large extent luck but tempered with a degree of persistence and determination.

50

Elgol If Carlsburg made views then this would probably be it

.

Landscape photography is much more considered than climbing shots with some pictures planned long in advance. A tripod will be used to provide a steady platform but also as an aid to composition. Precise adjustments can be made to frame the scene exactly, the whole landscape photography process is slow and thoughtful although sometimes the light can change rapidly.

Probably the hardest photos to get are those high on the ridge in full winter conditions. Last season I was lucky enough to do the much coveted winter traverse of the ridge twice in two weeks. Both times I took my minimalist set up of Sony A7 and a small prime lens.

The start of the traverse The summit of Sgurr nan Gillian at dawn after an ascent in the dark

51

Fairy Pools One of the most popular tourist destinations on Skye. It becomes truly magical in winter with a sprinkling of snow and nobody in sight 52

Black Cuillin, White Water The distinctive silhouette of Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Sgurr a Bhasteir seen from a waterfall very close to the road and easily accessed by most people Little House, Big Mountain Bla Bheinn and Clach Glas from across Loch Slapin

Adrian is a local guide who spends his days guiding cients through the beautiful mountains of Skye.

For all Cuillin needs, be they guiding or photographic contact Adrian or see his website ’All Things Cuillin’ You can also checkout Adrian’s Facebook Group dedicated to Skye and it’s Cuillin

53

Avalanche Safety We’ve all heard of an avalanche: A big movement of snow, ice and rocks that sweeps it’s way down the mountainside, taking anything or anyone it meets along for the ride. If you spend time in the mountains in winter, knowing what to look for and what to do if you or a friend get caught up in one can literally be the difference between life and death.

54

Conditions can change regularly in the mountains and the avalanche risk can differ from hour to hour. Knowing what to look for can help you understand the conditions around you and make informed decisions to keep you and your party safe.

Wind slab can be identified by blocking or cracking in the snow. Formed by wind, snow is packed tightly into a huge layer of hard snow which often forms on top of more powdered snow. Disturbing the wind slab can lead to avalanche as the heavy layer slides across the powder below.

Significant snowfall in a short period of time can leave large volumes of powder which needs time to compact and stabilise.

Rising temperatures throughout the day are also a cause for consideration, particularly during spring. As the warmth and sunlight heats snow, the snow partially melts and becomes heavy and saturated, sometimes leading to wet slides. Signs that this is beginning to occur include Sun balls/rolling balls and smalls Sluffs (loose snow avalanches).

Recent Avalanche activity can indicate that the snow pack is unstable. Keeping an eye out for Avalanche debris, inspecting it to determine whether it’s fresh, taking note of the terrain on which it has occurred, and determining the type of avalanche can give you a really good idea of snow conditions in the area Other things to look out for are Cornices, and silly people peering over the top of them. Slopes that are 25-45 degrees are most prone to slides as they’re steep enough for a slide to occur but not too steep to prevent slabs forming. This isn’t to say they cannot occur elsewhere if the right conditions are present.

55

From Top to bottom: Snow layers, cracked wind slab, a cornice, sun balls/rolling balls.

Where can you find out current conditions?

The Scottish Avalanche information service monitor weather conditions, snow pack and consider the terrain, which can give a good forecast of avalanche risk in mountainous areas of Scotland. Checking the report for areas you wish to venture into is a must throughout the winter season. They’ll offer advice and detailed information, including a good/moderate/considerable warning.

Essential Kit to consider On top of your regular mountain kit, you’ll want to get your hands on a few extra pieces and make sure you’re familiar with them: mountaineering snow shovel, probe and avalanche transceiver. If you’re unsure, many winter skills courses show you how to use them and why they’re needed. Playing hide and seek in the dark is a bit of fun and gives you some experience using your transceiver before it’s needed for real. Top points for commitment to anyone who half buries themselves in the snow for trainings sake (just please don’t suffocate yourself!). Get into the habit of turning your transceiver on before you leave the car, and keeping it on until you’re taking boots off at the end of the day.

Back country skiers and snowboarders should also consider an air bag. If you find yourself caught in an avalanche, deploying your airbag will bring you to the surface and potentially save your life.

56

What to do if you get caught up in an avalanche •

Let go of or throw your poles and anything in your hands and any heavy kit.

Make sure you’re avalanche equipment is always with you though.

•

Try to run or stumble to the side of the avalanche.

•

Swim furiously upwards, pushing hard as the snow slows down.

•

Use arm and hands to create space around face before the avalanche stops moving.

•

Dig friends out ASAP, survival rates reduce significantly after 15 minutes of being buried.

If in doubt, come back another day. Keep your eyes peeled and trust your instincts. It only takes one too many lemons to line up for a beautiful day in the mountains to turn into an epic. Learn from experienced mountaineers and guides before heading out on your own and always tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back.

57

Go Ski Touring 58

‘Powder. The Greatest Ski Runs On The Planet” has arrived from Waterstones. It’s a hardback coffee table must have and will make a great Christmas present for the ski obsessed super-friends in your life. Featuring many of the worlds greatest ski runs. A quick flick through the book already has me convinced that Skiing is the perfect way to spend a week or two (or a lifetime). The glossy photos are of great views, snow capped peaks, intrepid dudes and dudesses preparing themselves for the descent Imagine the scene. You are sat at your favourite mountain top restaurant, the sun is shining and the sky is that bright shade of blue that you only get in the mountains. The kids are full of stories from their morning ski school antics. You have an ice cold beer in front of you, and as you wait for your tartiflette, you survey the high ridgelines of the mountains surrounding you. You spot a couple of tracks, snaking their way down a wide couloir. How did they get there? Where did they go? Would it be great if they were your tracks? But that sort of thing is for the Professionals right? Not necessarily!

Slopes appear much steeper when you are looking at them from across the valley, when you actually get on them they are often no steeper than a red or black. Many of the best lines and runs you can see are well below 30 degrees. And most don’t get skied much just because they are not accessible by the lifts and people are rightly cautious about going where others often don’t,.

A specialist Ski Touring (or Split Boarding for Snowboarders) Holiday is your answer and there are some really good operators out there. It’s a growing sport. Skiing has grown in popularity over the past few decades and the developments in kit has allowed us to venture off piste relatively successfully, where 30 years ago we wouldn’t have been able to, due to “arrow” thin, “longbow” long skis. Those first, off piste detours have us hooked and now all we want to do is find those little gems that the locals like to keep to themselves. Sometimes we will ski them again and again and again. The best Ski Touring companies should want to give you your best turns. Using their specialist knowledge of the area and the snowpack on any given day and at any given point in time on that day.

Our best turns happen when our relationship with the mountains and our love of skiing combine, resulting in an almost spiritual high, however brief. Away from the crowds, taking in amazing views not possible from the pistes. The camaraderie of being in a team that sets out together and enjoys that day and those moments together. We don’t need that mountain top restaurant. A packed lunch at the top feels like the best meal at the chef’s table. Being the first to ski powder fields although its way past 3 in the afternoon.

Returning to the bar at the end of the day, listening to all the piste stories from others. All the time quietly knowing, that because you started where the lifts stopped, you have had a very different and wild experience

59

Things to consider before you go

K

now how to use your safety equipment. There is no point in having a transceiver unless you know how to use it. Good practice can be fun - learn how to search and find but also learn your search and find ranges. This will differ depending on the model and battery strength of your transceiver but also the temperature on the day. Not everyone will have the same model and therefore not everyone’s transceivers will have identical ranges.

A

sk your guide loads of questions so you are sure you have the knowledge. Remember that transceivers should be “on in the car, off in the bar”. Saving battery during the day isn’t helpful if you forget to put it back on.

P

ractice using your kit, don’t just go on the first big hike without feeling comfortable with it.

Don’t be scared of taking your time. Its better than “having a moment” later on, up the mountain.

A

s with any remote mountain sport, safety needs to be highly considered, so if you’re new to the sport, hire a qualified guide to show you the ropes. Carry a transceiver, shovel and probe with you and know how to use them. Make sure you are fit enough, It doesn’t need to be the Haute Route to be physically challenging.

Goskitouring,com offers exciting ski touring trips, taking you away from the crowded pistes and out into the high mountains. From introductory weekends to hut to hut adventures, they have something for anyone wanting to start where the lifts stop.

60

61

62