Adventure Sports Journal // Fall 2024 // Issue #134

Don Pedro Reservoir Ferretti Trail System, Groveland

MTB Skills Coaching

PUBLISHING + EDITORIAL

PUBLISHER

Cathy Claesson cathy@adventuresportsjournal.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Matt Niswonger matt@adventuresportsjournal.com

COPY EDITORS

Michele Lamelin & Jennifer Stein

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Leonie Sherman, Doug Robinson, Matt Johanson, Anthea Raymond, Matt Niswonger, Krista Houghton, James Murren, Matt McCourtney

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dyland Silver/OARS, Paul Robert Wolf Wilson, Krista Houghton, CSULB Shark Lab, David Kay, Matt Johanson, Dave Miller / International Alpine Guides, Robert Kyte / Alpenglow Expeditions, Matt McCourtney, Krista Houghton, Kristofer Miller, Abby Wines, Gordon Wiltsie, Ken Yager, Steve Bosque, Brooke Sandahl, Joe McKeown, Jim Campbell, Oliver Schmidt, Tobias Wolf

COVER DESIGN

Lauren Worth

INDUSTRY NEWS & SOCIAL MEDIA

Ella Suring news@adventuresportsjournal.com

EVENTS MARKETING & DISTRIBUTION

Krista Houghton & Lee Houghton events@adventuresportsjournal.com

ADVERTISING

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Cathy Claesson I 831.234.0351 cathy@adventuresportsjournal.com

DESTINATION MARKETING MANAGER

Pamela Coffey I 619.887.9937 pamela@adventuresportsjournal.com

LAND ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Our office resides in Aulinta (‘place of the Red Abalone’) in the larger region called Popeloutchom (‘paradise’) by the Amah Mutsun Tribe.

What drives you to face the challenges inherent in your outdoor activities?

leoniesherman

A materialistic society hellbent on planetary destruction drives me deep into the wilderness. Blisters, hypothermia and altitude sickness are easier to handle than the challenges of modern civilization.

Maybe having escaped with my life so far? But risk isn’t the point. It’s the high that comes from finessing wild terrain!

anthearaymond

As an older athlete and adventurer, it’s important mentally, physically and socially to keep going. It’s also important that others see people like me still at it. Representation matters.

mattjohanson

Fulfilling goals feels great and delivers personal satisfaction. I’ll never forget my best races, climbs and hikes. Plus the process of striving to meet goals builds character even if we fall short sometimes.

kristahoughton

Taking calculated risks and being adventure ready. Nature and wildlife are unpredictable, but that’s part of the game.

ADVENTURE SPORTS JOURNAL PO BOX 35, Santa Cruz, CA 95063 staff@adventuresportsjournal.com

Opinions expressed are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Adventure Sports Journal or our advertisers. We usually agree with our articles, but sometimes we don’t. We welcome all contributions.

All content © Adventure Sports Journal 2024. No part of this publication may be reproduced without permission of the editors.

Elders I respect often advise: keep moving. This is key for maintaining physical abilities for outdoor enjoyment later in life, but also helps us gain unique perspectives, especially when things go awry.

When I face challenges during outdoor activities I get to meet the real Matt Niswonger. It’s not always pretty.

mattmccourtney

Being in wild spaces makes me feel free. It simplifies my choices and allows me to be present. That presence opens up the vault of creativity, perspective, and understanding.

6 Editor’s Note Killing time with adventure // 7 Ear to the Ground News & notes from the outdoor industry // 9 Earn Your Beer Rafting on the Tuolumne River // 36 Event Calendar Upcoming Races and Events // 38 Gear We Love Goodies for your active lifestyle departments

10 Paddle Tribal Waters Reviving Indigenous traditions // 14 Adventure Camping Overland sleeping solutions // 16 Sharks and Us Insights for ocean lovers // 18 Mexican Volcanoes Exploring Mexico’s highest peaks // 20 Bikepacking A solo adventure in the Lost Sierra // 24 Inyo Mountains Wilderness California’s secluded sanctuary // 28 Clean Climbing Doug Robinson’s climbing revolution // 29 Climber’s Credo Protecting our vertical Wilderness // 30 Half Dome The quest for karma

ON THE COVER: Tobias Wolfe and Oliver Schmidt celebrate with a high five after the first free ascent of Karma. Photo by Tobias Wolfe via time-lapse

TAHOE KEEPERS

PHOTO CREDITS: (10) Paul Robert Wolf Wilson; (16) CSULB Shark Lab; (30) Oliver Schmidt; (24) Kristofer Miller

THANK YOU!

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ASJ is an important voice for the outdoor community in California, and we are in direct competition with corporate media and online platforms.

Please consider helping us continue our work by becoming a member today.

With your support we can continue to inspire adventure, event participation, exploration and environmental stewardship.

THE BARDO Killing time with adventure

For those steeped in Yosemite adventure history, Mark Wellman is a well-known hero. In 1989 he became the first paraplegic to climb El Capitan. With his partner the late Mike Corbett to lead the pitches, Wellman did thousands of pull-ups during a sustained effort that took over a week to ascend a route known as The Shield.

Wellman became a paraplegic a few years earlier, the result of a fall he took while mountaineering. In a bold rescue, Navy pilot Philip Amrhein and a crew of medics pulled Wellman’s broken body from a precarious ledge, deep in the High Sierra.

When he woke up in the hospital a few days later, the harsh reality of his fate came crashing down: Wellman would be wheelchair bound for the rest of his life.

In the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, the bardo is an intermediate state between death and rebirth, where the soul undergoes a period of transition and experiences various visions and states of consciousness.

Just as the bardo is a liminal space where the soul faces challenges and opportunities for transformation, Mark Wellman faced his own bardo while lying in a rehab facility. Would he rise to the occasion and accept his fate as a paraplegic, or would he sink into the depths of despair?

As we were putting together this issue, I spoke with Mark on the phone. The call lasted over an hour but it seemed like five minutes. Mark is possibly the most inspiring person I have ever talked to.

Mark’s bardo was in the rehab facility as he stared into the abyss of hopelessness. His body was permanently broken. Now what? To overcome the tendrils of depression pulling him into the abyss, Wellman devoted his life to defeating the limitations of his wheelchair.

He climbed El Capitan and Half Dome, competed in the 1996 Paralympic Games on a sit-ski, and travels the world as an ambassador for adaptive athletes everywhere.

BECOME A MEMBER!

What Mark and I discussed that day was that everyone faces the bardo. Every life has a challenge or multiple challenges that will push us to the brink of despair. Whether it’s an eating disorder, or the death of a loved one, or crushing loneliness, nobody escapes the bardo. That’s where adventure comes in. In the same way Mark Wellman HAD to climb El Capitan to escape his inner demons, we all must rise to the adventure in our

lives. Whether it’s getting up at dawn to pull on a wetsuit, racking up at the base of Half Dome, exorcising your demons on a mountain bike, facing your fears on a double black diamond ski-run, or hiking the John Muir Trail, outdoor adventure is how we transcend the bardo.

Welcome to issue #134, finding a more powerful version of ourselves in the great outdoors. We choose to challenge ourselves because slipping into despair is not an option. By facing our fears we help others find courage as well.

Every issue of ASJ is handcrafted with love, and I hope you find inspiration in these pages. Nature is a place to find everything you need, and that’s why we treasure a noble lifestyle built around outdoor adventure.

I won’t lie: life is a series of bardos and every day brings a new challenge. But we know where this path is headed. A beautiful fate awaits those who rise to the challenge.

In the influential book Siddhartha, written in 1922 by the German seminarian Hermann Hesse, one of the main characters describes seeing the true essence of nature for the very first time. The lesson, after a lifetime of struggle, is that what we seek is the death of time itself:

“Have you also learned that secret from the river; that there is no such thing as time? That the river is everywhere at the same time, at the source and at the mouth, at the waterfall, at the ferry, at the current, in the ocean and in the mountains, everywhere, and that the present only exists for it, not the shadow of the past nor the shadow of the future?”

Dear friend, if you are reading these words, rejoice. You picked up a random magazine and rediscovered your own divine purpose: to overcome the bardo, and to transcend time itself while you experience nature with the mind of an astonished child.

Thanks and be safe.We hope you enjoy this issue and embrace the outdoors!

matt@adventuresportsjournal.com

EAR TO THE GROUND News and notes from the outdoor industry

THE CLEAN CLIMBER’S CREDO

Doug Robinson, author of the original clean climber’s manifesto, has teamed up with the Yosemite Climber’s Association to help create new environmental standards for climbers. Turn to page 28 for Robinson’s updated Clean Climber’s Manifesto. Robinson authored the original Manifesto in the 1972 Chouinard catalog and helped spark a worldwide movement away from driving pitons into the granite cliffs of Yosemite and elsewhere. The new updated manifesto comes in response to efforts by some federal land managers to eliminate or regulate all fixed anchors in designated Wilderness. YCA’s Climber’s Credo (see below and page 29) adds additional emphasis to support the need to possibly modify certain behaviors in the face of increasing regulatory pressure.

GUIDING PRINCIPLES FOR YOSEMITE CLIMBERS

The Yosemite Climbing Association (YCA) has introduced the Yosemite Climber’s Credo, outlining principles for responsible climbing and environmental stewardship. This Credo emphasizes safety, respect for the environment, and preserving Yosemite’s climbing heritage. It highlights the importance of adhering to established routes, minimizing environmental impact, and supporting a positive climbing community. By embracing these principles, climbers help protect Yosemite’s renowned climbing destinations. The YCA’s Credo aims to maintain the integrity and accessibility of Yosemite’s climbing experiences for future generations, reflecting a shared commitment to preserving these treasured landscapes.

MAJOR FUNDING BOOST FOR OUTDOOR ACCESS

The US Department of the Interior has announced a significant investment of $325 million aimed at enhancing public access to outdoor spaces. This funding is set to improve infrastructure, such as trails and visitor centers, in national parks and public lands across the country. The initiative, part of a broader effort to promote environmental stewardship and outdoor recreation, seeks to address increasing visitor demands and support local economies. The investment will also focus on increasing accessibility for underserved communities, ensuring that more Americans can enjoy the natural beauty of their public lands. This funding represents a crucial step toward making outdoor experiences more inclusive and enjoyable for all.

THIS COULD THIS COULD BE YOU BE YOU

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE CONFIRMS E-BIKE MANAGEMENT PLAN

The National Park Service (NPS) has finalized its environmental review on the management of e-bikes in national parks, allowing their continued use on park roads and designated trails. This

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NEW BIKE TURNOUTS IMPROVE SAFETY AT MOUNT DIABLO

California State Parks, in partnership with local cycling groups and other stakeholders, has completed the installation of 22 new bike turnouts at Mount Diablo State Park, aimed at improving safety for cyclists and drivers. These turnouts allow cyclists to safely pull over, enabling vehicles to pass without disrupting traffic flow. Funded by a $927,000 grant, the project underscores a commitment to enhancing recreational experiences while prioritizing safety. A celebratory event was held on August 24, 2024, at Curry Point within the park, where officials and cycling advocates gathered to commemorate the initiative. This project not only improves the experience for cyclists but also aligns with broader efforts to promote sustainable outdoor recreation and maintain harmony between different types of park visitors. For those interested in attending the event or learning more about the bike turnout project, additional information can be found on the California State Parks website.

CALIFORNIA ENHANCES FISHING WITH 1.53 MILLION SALMON RELEASE

This August, California Department of Fish and Wildlife released 1.53 million inland salmon into the state’s waterways to boost recreational fishing opportunities. This release, part of a broader effort to support fish populations and enhance aquatic ecosystems, aims to benefit anglers across California. The newly introduced salmon are expected to contribute to increased fishing success and help sustain local fish populations. The initiative aligns with ongoing conservation efforts to maintain healthy aquatic environments while providing recreational benefits. This significant release underscores California’s commitment to supporting both the environment and recreational activities.

REGISTRATION FOR THE DEATH RIDE IS OPEN — EARLIER THAN EVER

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For lodging, experience planning, events & more visit granlibakken.com

HEARST CASTLE LAUNCHES MOONLIT ART TOURS

California State Parks is launching a new evening tour series at Hearst Castle® called “Art Under the Moonlight,” starting October 4, 2024. This unique experience allows visitors to explore William Randolph Hearst’s famed art collection under the glow of the moon. Tours will be available on select Fridays and Saturdays through November 16, with limited availability. Guests can admire illuminated outdoor sculptures and learn about their historical significance. Reservations are recommended.

FISH AND GAME COMMISSION APPROVES NEW STURGEON FISHING GUIDELINES

The California Fish and Game Commission has approved the reopening of catch-and-release sport fishing for white sturgeon, set for October 1. This decision follows a June closure after the species was proposed for listing under the California Endangered Species Act (CESA). New regulations focus on sturgeon protection, requiring anglers to have a valid Sturgeon Fishing Report Card. Public comments on the listing proposal are open until October 31, 2024, and can be submitted through the California

Commission website.

The Death Ride, known as one of the most challenging endurance cycling events in the country, is officially open for registration — earlier than ever before! Nearly 90% of the course is closed to vehicles and takes place in the stunning Sierra Nevada. This iconic event offers cyclists the opportunity to tackle up to six mountain passes, totaling 103 miles and over 14,000 feet of climbing. Secure your spot now and start your training for an unforgettable experience on July 12, 2025.

BIKE TO THE FUTURE: RIDE FOR SAFER STREETS

Silicon Valley Bicycle Coalition is gearing up for its biggest fundraising event of the year, the 4th Annual Bike to the Future. This ride is dedicated to making El Camino Real safer for everyone, with a goal of raising $60,000 to transform local infrastructure and boost awareness. The event features expanded routes, including the firstever century ride, offering options for cyclists of all levels, from beginners to seasoned riders. Support for this event directly contributes to building safer streets for all road users. Join the ride for a brighter, safer future!

READ MORE NEWS AND PRESS RELEASE INFORMATION ON OUR WEBSITE

Scan the QR code to go to our webiste and keep up with the latest news and information from our outdoor industry partners.

Rapids to Brews on the Tuolumne River

Groveland Adventures & Brews

By James Murren

THE EARNING

Late summer rafting on the Tuolumne River near Yosemite National Park, is an 18-mile journey driven by water releases from Hetch Hetchy. This flow is a marvel of water management, requiring coordination among various stakeholders.

I spent two days and one night on the Tuolumne River. The rapids, especially Clavey Falls, provided an adrenaline rush, while calmer stretches offered scenic views of golden mountains under a vivid blue sky. There were plenty of spots for

swimming and relaxing, particularly at Indian Creek camp. Evenings were spent enjoying appetizers and fajitas by the river, prepared by the OARS crew.

Sleeping under the stars, with the river as a backdrop, gave me one of the best nights of sleep I’ve had while camping. The next morning, we enjoyed coffee and waited for the dam release, giving us a leisurely start before another three hours of rafting.

Rafting the Tuolumne River offers a firsthand understanding of the importance of the National Wild and

He Was a Gater Boi was a refreshing citrus juicer collaboration IPA with Tactical Brewing (Orlando, FL). I eyeballed the cooler and selected two 16-ounce cans of it, along with cans of Noble Ascent and Gateway to Gold.

On the Tuolumne River camp, I chilled the Ascent and Gateway cans in the flowing water. Later on, I cracked open Noble Ascent first. An oat malted lager using Haná heritage malt, it was brewed in collaboration with Hana Koa Brewing (Honolulu, HI). After a day of rafting, it hit the palate with a little more sweetness than I expected, but I was not complaining, at all.

Scenic Rivers System, established by Congress in 1968. Paddling through Grey’s Grindstone, a ¾-mile rapid, reveals some of the most breathtaking scenery in California, if not the world.

Protect our rivers: rivers.gov

THE BEER

Around the Horn Brewing Company is a family-owned and operated independent brewery in Groveland, a gold rush town and Yosemite gateway community along Route 120. I stopped in for a pint before setting up camp for the night; their

I then sat by the river and drank the can of Gateway to Gold. They call it a Kölsch style ale. The sun was slowly sliding behind the ridgeline and camp chatter lilted with occasional laughter while the river softly lapped the shoreline. A rock was my seat and my feet cooled in the water. I’m pretty sure that no matter what you might be drinking in such a moment, it’s going to be quite alright, but the Gateway was more than that. It was perfect. That’s a dandy of a beer, if you prefer a Germaninspired beer slightly on the hoppier side than what tradition may say. aroundthehornbeer.com

Groveland also offers fly fishing, mountain biking, hiking, and more. Plus, Yosemite is just a short drive away — perfect for a full adventure getaway.

Paddle Tribal Waters

Reviving Indigenous traditions on the Klamath River with a historic kayak journey

By Anthea Raymond • Photos Paul Robert Wolf Wilson

For over a century, dams along the Klamath River destroyed fish and plant life and uprooted the culture and economies of the Karuk, Yurok, and other tribes living nearby. Most of those dams will soon be gone, allowing tribal members to reconnect to their waters in profound ways.

Toward that, an intertribal group of teens has been training to kayak the river from source to sea. They are eyeing June 2025 for the monthlong journey, which will begin at the Klamath headwaters on the Wood River in southern Oregon.

“Before the dams, our tribes were river travelers, using hand-built canoes to move up and down the river for commerce and transportation,” says Keeya Wiki, 16, a Yurok tribal member and one of the young kayakers. “In training for the first descent, we are reconnecting with our heritage and our river.”

The expedition will pass through over 250 miles of watershed to the estuary at the Pacific Ocean in Del Norte County. The trip will require both stamina and skill. That’s where Paddle Tribal Waters (PTW) comes in.

Now in its third summer, Paddle Tribal Waters has over forty alumni – teens from most all of the tribes in the Klamath River Basin. Some have progressed from complete beginners to Class IV kayakers with combat rolls and playboating skills. Two will go to Africa to train on the Zambezi River this fall.

Professional paddlers and instructors like Rush Sturges, Ben Morton, and Kira Tenney are lending their expertise. So are the “junior instructors” culled from the 2022 and 2023 sessions – four of whom are now working on their American Canoe Association Instructor Certification. Both groups helped out again this July when the 2024 cohort gathered at Otter Bar Lodge near the Oregon border.

The newest paddlers got lots of water time, participating in daily

sessions on sections of the Lower Klamath. They also worked on safety techniques, including the kayak roll, the self-righting technique that opens doors to more challenging whitewater. The two-week program culminated with a two-night, threeday trip, to get a taste of what the descent will require.

The young people also worked on the leadership in advocacy skills they will need as Indigenous stewards. A clean up along the Trinity River, a Klamath tributary, was part of that.

Danielle “Ducky” Frank, 20, heads the PTW leadership training. She also helped start the annual clean ups five years ago. A Hoopa tribal member, she grew up along the river. Even as a toddler she participated in her family’s activism around the dams and their removal.

“A lot of those who grew up in the

Opposite page: Pro kayaker and filmmaker Rush Sturges shares tips on the Klamath River in June 2023; Paddle Tribal Waters (PTW) co-founder Paul Robert Wolf Wilson, a Klamath and Modoc tribal member, shown here connecting with his river roots at an early age; Like other tribal youth Wolf Wilson and sister Ashia rallied for dam removal with their mother Danita even as toddlers This page, above: Instructor Ben Morton gives some one-on-one attention to a Paddle Tribal Water participant.

Lower Klamath basin have a strong understanding of the need for activism,” Frank says. “We are the only people who know what a place is supposed to be like and we are the best to protect it.”

As anyone who has learned to whitewater kayak knows, good things take time. And a big issue for PTW was creating enough “water time” and continuity for the young paddlers to develop.

In 2024, PTW partnered with World Class Academy to create and deliver an accredited curriculum to let 13 young tribal members live, train and travel over five months. And travel they did, first to Chile where they met

“A lot of those who grew up in the Lower Klamath basin have a strong understanding of the need for activism. We are

the only people who know what a place is supposed to be like

and and we

are the

best to protect it.”

— Danielle “Ducky” Frank

young river activists from Bolivia and then to the Northwest for sessions on the McKenzie, Smith, and Klamath rivers.

Another full-time Academy is planned for 2025, with graduation just before the scheduled descent.

The planned descent and its meaning for the Klamath Basin tribes has attracted a lot of support and interest. Two participants were

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Overnight camping and paddling trips like this one along the Lower Klamath River in June 2023 are helping young paddlers prepare for the month-long journey. This page, clockwise from top:

Tasia Linwood is getting the hang of kayaking; Julia Wolfe, a junior counselor, preps the GoPros for the summer 2024 media interns; Last fall, some PTW youth joined Momentum River Expeditions for a last run down a popular Class IV section of the Upper Klamath in paddle rafts before dam removal.

invited to present last spring at the White House Water Summit. The dam removal project is, after all, believed to be the biggest internationally.

Two dams still remain near the headwaters just below Klamath Lake, so all craft will have to be transported around those structures.

There will also be plenty of Class IV and some Class V water. Not everyone will be expected — or able — to paddle everything, including Class VI Ishi Pishi Falls which is off-limits as it is sacred to the Karuk people. And that’s okay, according to Weston Boyles, who heads PTW’s parent organization, Rios to Rivers, a nonprofit connecting young river stewards internationally.

“We plan to continue the program after the dams have been removed,” he says, “because we’ve seen the ways in which access to quality instruction and gear can help communities heal

and reconnect with their ancestral waterways.”

If all goes as planned, the Paddle Tribal Waters youth will be ready to lead the way.

To learn more about Paddle Tribal Waters and their upcoming journey, visit riostorivers.org

Overland Sleeping Solutions

Inside, Outside, or Rooftop Tent

By Krista Houghton

Overlanding, the practice of self-reliant travel to remote destinations where the journey is the primary goal, has grown in popularity. For those embracing this adventure, the right sleeping setup is essential to ensure comfort and safety on the road.

Overlanders typically have three main options when it comes to sleeping arrangements — inside the vehicle, outside in a tent, or on top with a rooftop tent. Each option offers unique advantages and challenges, and the best choice often depends on personal preferences, the nature of the journey, and the specific vehicle being used.

Sleeping Inside the Vehicle

Sleeping inside your vehicle offers various setups depending on the vehicle’s size. Larger vehicles like SUVs, vans, and trucks often provide more comfort, especially when equipped with a camper or custom storage system. These setups might include foldable beds, mattresses, or platforms, making it easy to sleep securely and stay protected from the

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elements. Larger vehicles also offer more space for gear storage and the ability to sit up or relax indoors during bad weather.

For smaller vehicles like compact SUVs or sedans, sleeping inside requires more creativity. Typically, this involves folding down the back seats and using a mattress or sleeping pad. While this setup is more compact and may require nightly reorganization of gear, it can still be a viable option, especially for solo travelers.

The comfort of sleeping inside largely depends on the vehicle’s size and how well the space is organized. Larger vehicles with camper setups offer a more spacious experience, while smaller vehicles provide a minimalist and efficient sleeping solution. Both approaches have their own merits and can be tailored to fit different needs on the road.

Sleeping Outside of the Vehicle

For those who prefer a more traditional camping experience, sleeping outside can offer a spacious and comfortable solution. Modern tents are designed to withstand various weather conditions, and high-quality gear can make outdoor sleeping surprisingly comfortable.

Tents allow for a connection with nature, offering the chance to stargaze and enjoy the sounds of the wild. However, setting up a tent takes time, and dealing with the tent and air mattress daily can become tiresome. Wind, dust, and the potential for encountering wildlife can also disrupt sleep.

While a tent provides roominess and a more immersive outdoor experience, it requires a level of commitment to setup and maintenance that not all travelers may find appealing.

Sleeping On Top of the Vehicle

The rooftop tent has become increasingly popular among overlanders for its convenience and comfort. Mounted on the vehicle’s roof, rooftop tents offer an elevated sleeping platform that keeps travelers off the ground, away from moisture, and safe from most wildlife. These tents are quick to set up, often in under a minute, and many models

Choosing

the right sleeping setup for vehiclebased adventures is a crucial decision that can

significantly impact your overall experience.

allow bedding to remain inside when closed. However, rooftop tents add height and weight to the vehicle, which can affect fuel efficiency and handling. They also come at a cost, with quality models ranging around $4,000. For those seeking a balance between convenience and comfort, the rooftop tent provides an appealing option, but it requires careful consideration of vehicle capacity and budget.

Conclusion

Choosing the right sleeping setup for vehicle-based adventures is a crucial decision that can significantly impact your overall experience. Whether opting for the security of sleeping inside the vehicle, the space and connection to nature offered by a tent, or the convenience and comfort of a rooftop ten, each option comes with its own set of pros and cons. Understanding these factors and aligning them with personal preferences and travel goals will help ensure that the journey is as enjoyable and comfortable as possible.

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT

Awning: Provides shade and protection from the elements when camping.

Roof Rack: Provides extra space for gear and equipment.

Portable Fridge: Keeps food fresh and beverages cold during long trips.

Solar Panel Setup: Charges devices and powers appliances without a generator.

Off-Road Tires: Enhances vehicle capability on rough terrain.

Recovery Gear: Includes items like a winch, recovery straps, and a shovel for off-road situations.

Water Storage: Portable tanks or jugs for storing and accessing clean water.

Battery Upgrade: Deep-cycle batteries or dual battery systems for extended power needs.

Camping Kitchen Setup: Can include portable countertops, sinks, and storage solutions for cooking and cleaning.

Bathroom Setup: Portable toilet, privacy tent, waste bags, and/or a compact shower system ensure comfort and hygiene during your adventure.

Sharks and Us Insights for surfers and ocean lovers

Words by Leonie Sherman • Photos by CSULB Shark Lab

According to Psychology Today, almost 40% of Americans won’t go in the ocean because they’re afraid of sharks. They’re not wrongsharks are out there, swimming even closer than we thought to swimmers, surfers and paddlers. But those sharks pose little danger to humans. Understanding their habits and lives can soothe fear, and add a dimension of awe and respect to our ocean adventures.

A2023 Cal State Long Beach study found juvenile great white sharks gathering within 100 yards of the California coast. 97% of the time they were swimming within 50 yards of humans enjoying the waves.

This study was the first to use drone footage to track sharks, so nobody knows if we’ve been swimming with them all along. In the past, late summer and early fall brought sharks, especially the great whites that feature in most nightmares, close to shore as they returned from summer vacation in Hawaii, searching for food. But warming seas allow them to spend more time close to shore, and possibly take up residence where they used to just pass through. “Sharktober” may be a thing of the past.

The Cal State Long Beach study found that surfers, paddlers and swimmers weren’t even aware of how close they were to sharks clearly visible from the air. But the sharks almost certainly knew humans were nearby — their sense of hearing and smell is much stronger than ours and they have additional senses that allow them to sense water currents, magnetic fields and minute electrical pulses. They can detect a heartbeat miles away.

Despite being so close to humans, sharks still choose not to bother us — in California there was only a single shark fatality in 2023. We are either not on the menu or they’re more scared of us than we are of them. And for good reason.

According to the International Fund for Animal Welfare, humans kill 100 million sharks every year. That’s almost a quarter of a million sharks every day, or around three sharks every second. Forty percent of sharks worldwide are endangered and between 25-40% of the annual carnage consists of endangered sharks.

By contrast, sharks kill an average of ten people a year. In about half of those instances the sharks were provoked or harassed. The number of fatalities varies; in 2023, 14 people worldwide were killed by sharks, in 2022 it was five. In the US, sharks kill about one person every two years.

The American Academy of Pediatrics estimates that 77 children die every year from choking on hot dogs. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration reports that 3,308 people died from distracted driving in 2022. Changing music while

driving or feeding your kids processed meat pose significantly more danger than the sharks swimming nearby while you paddle out or catch a wave. We fear what we don’t know, and protect what we love. As with all wild animals, the antidote to fear is knowledge. When we learn about these sleek cartilaginous fish we can start to understand, appreciate and maybe even enjoy them. We can transform fear into love, the most sacred alchemy. Sharks have been roaming the seas for over 400 million years, 393 million years before our most distant hominid ancestors appeared on the scene. They are older than Mt. Everest, even older than trees. They’ve survived at least four of the planet’s five mass extinctions, including one 252 million years ago that took out 96% of all marine life. The key to their longevity is adaptability. Sharks cruise all the world’s oceans, from the subtropics to the subarctic, from southeast Alaska to southern

Chile. Some hunt by lying in wait to ambush, some actively pursue their prey, and the second largest shark in the world subsists on just plankton. Some lay eggs, some give birth to live young, and some produce eggs that hatch inside their bodies. Some sharks prefer the surface, some use their pectoral fins to drag themselves along the sea floor, some cruise the depths 4,200 feet below the surface, and some can leap 30 feet in the air. Some are solo travelers, some congregate in large groups, and some have complex social hierarchies. Some filter oxygen through their gills by swimming and some have muscles to pump the water so they can remain stationary.

None of them have vocal cords or bones, but they

add calcium salts to their cartilage as they age so they become heavier and stronger. They have rows of teeth which they coat in fluoride and shed throughout their lives — a single shark can shed 30,000! A reflective coating on their eyeballs allows them to see well with little light.

Even though your chances of getting bitten by a shark are much lower than your chances of dying while taking a selfie or getting struck by lightning, humans are hardwired to be afraid of large wild animals that can hurt or kill us. But as we evolve into tech-wielding bipeds capable of complex and abstract thought, our ability to evaluate risk improves. When we understand how little danger sharks pose to us, we can enjoy their presence

Despite being so close to humans, sharks still choose not to bother us — in California there was only a single shark fatality in 2023. We are either not on the menu or they’re more scared of us than we are of them. And for good reason.

instead of fearing it.

After all, when we enter the ocean, we enter a home. How would you feel if a stranger walked into your house wearing only a speedo and started rummaging through your fridge?

Wild animals make up less than 10% of the planet’s animal biomass. Coming into contact with them is a privilege. If we cultivate respect and curiosity, we can learn to live with wild animals and maybe even help them thrive. If you love the ocean, consider donating or getting involved with shark conservation efforts. Enter the ocean with respect and awe for these prehistoric marvels that continue to live among us.

Climbing Mexico’s Highest Peaks

Exploring the peaks of La Malinche, Iztaccíhuatl, and Pico de Orizaba

By Matt Johanson

¡Vamos! We rose before dawn to climb La Malinche in Mexico’s La Malinche National Park. The volcano offers a unique experience to a Californian like me. At 14,567 feet, it stands taller than any peak in my home state. Pine trees grow on its shoulders at elevations thousands of feet higher than on Sierra Nevada mountains. But the thing I’ll remember most about the ascent is the company I enjoyed, and not just my fellow climbers. In a first for me, a pack of wild and friendly dogs followed us to the summit and back.

Though I’ve stood upon hundreds of mountain summits, only a few times have I climbed outside the western United States. I’m not qualified for or interested in dangerous peaks like Mount Everest or K2, but an international climbing experience intrigued me. Then a few years of Spanish classes elevated my desire to visit Spanish-speaking countries. The Mexican volcanoes trilogy of La Malinche, Iztaccíhuatl and Pico de Orizaba offered adventure within my ability range and budget. I packed my crampons and ice axe for a week south of the border.

Like many mountains, La Malinche boasts an interesting history to go with its physical challenge. A legend says that a reptilian monster lived inside the mountain and emerged to devour children. The peak’s Mexican name honors a Nahua woman who served as interpreter to Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés; Mexicans today view her as either a victim, survivor or traitor. My companions and I pondered La Malinche’s stories as we descended with our new furry friends.

¡Próxima! Iztaccíhuatl, a 17,160-foot volcano in Iztaccíhuatl–Popocatépetl

National Park, provided our next challenge. Izta’s name comes from an Indigenous word meaning “white woman” because its peaks look like a woman lying on her back, and snow colors her white. She is also called La Mujer Dormida, or the sleeping woman.

“I hope she doesn’t roll over while we’re climbing,” said another climber.

We camped near Izta’s base at 12,000 feet, tried to sleep at 6pm, rose at midnight and started climbing at 1am

The temperature was comfortable at first but dropped well below freezing, as my icy water bottle proved. During a break, mice scampered into my food bag and made me shake them out! Before dawn, we saw the distant lights of both Mexico City and Puebla.

One steep and icy section near the top required crampons. I held my breath and gripped my ice axe tensely as I traversed this hazard. A fall here would send a climber hurtling far and fast down the mountain, muy malo. Thankfully, we all passed safely through the danger.

Popocatépetl, a nearby active volcano, caught our attention. An Aztec legend

connects the two mountains: the princess Iztaccíhuatl died of grief when she was falsely told her beloved Popocatépetl perished in battle. The gods made them both mountains, and Popo still spouts smoke and ash in fury at his loss.

But reaching the summit at 8am delighted the six climbers on our team. ¡Muy feliz! We huddled together for a joyful group hug before starting the long walk back.

¡Una más! Pico de Orizaba, 18,491 feet tall and the highest peak in Mexico, summoned us for a final challenge. A great eagle fell and became the mountain, according to a native legend. Both steeper and colder than the other volcanoes, Pico was the highest peak that most climbers in our group had ever attempted. When one expressed doubts that we could succeed, our Mexican guide Cristian said, “¡Sí se puede!”

We camped at 13,000 feet in Pico de Orizaba National Park to acclimatize, rose at midnight and hiked at 1:30am The “trail” to the mountain was a maze of rock, snow and ice. Cristian led us in the darkness.

At 4am, we got out our harnesses, ice axes, crampons and rope for the main event: a long push up Pico’s northern glacier. My friend Kevin, Cristian and I roped together on the icy slope that seemed to go on forever and got steeper as we ascended. There was no place to rest, and since we were roped, we had

I’m not qualified for or interested in dangerous peaks like Mount Everest or K2, but an international climbing experience intrigued me.

to climb at exactly the same pace. We eventually found a rhythm that we could all handle: step, breathe, repeat. Progress felt painfully slow, but we seemed to climb faster than the others on the mountain, whose headlamps we could see. We labored in the dark for hours until finally day broke on the horizon. Then the sun cast a shadow of Orizaba that stretched for miles in the shape of a giant pyramid.

¡Hurra! We reached the summit at 7:30am Another party welcomed us with congratulations and hugs. We lingered to rest and enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains, including the other two that we had climbed. Two from our group had to turn around with altitude sickness, but a Russian named Anna summited about an hour later. All that was left was a tough three-hour descent to camp followed by a long drive back to Puebla and a joyful victory fiesta.

Climbing the highest mountains in Mexico was a thrilling way for me to combine my modest athletic ability

Venture out into nature and experience one of the most extraordinary stays in our mountain lodge. We’re nestled amongst the trees where we have Donner Pass as a stunning backdrop in our mountain lodge, the Hutchinson Lodge or one of the back country huts. With rustic accommodations, Clair Tappaan is the perfect place to stay for any traveler who wants to be close to nature.

Opposite page, top to bottom: Climbers relaxing on the summit of Iztaccíhuatl (Dave Miller / International Alpine Guides); Wild dogs accompanied the climbers to the summit of La Malinche, which stands taller than any peak in California or the lower 48 states (Matt Johanson); The author and climbing partner force a smile on Pico’s formidable glacier. This page, top to bottom: Climbers ascending the Jamapa Glacier on the North side of Orizaba (Dave Miller / International Alpine Guides); Climbers navigating the Arista del Sol on Iztaccíhuatl with Popocatépetl in the background (Dave Miller / International Alpine Guides); A view from the descent of Pico de Orizaba’s glacier (Robert Kyte / Alpenglow Expeditions).

with my even more limited Spanish skill. I’ll never be a world-class climber, but I learned that those of us who aren’t can still see more of the world through climbing. The experience made me grateful for my night school Spanish lessons, which helped me bond with our first-rate guides. Cristian, Angel and Danny made our adventure exciting, rewarding and safe. ¡Gracias, amigos!

BIKEPACKING THE LOST SIERRA SOLO

Creating and riding a 250-mile backcountry bikepacking adventure

Story and photos by Matt McCourtney

The Connected Communities project by Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship (SBTS) is a visionary 600-mile trail intended to connect 15 small mountain towns in the Lost Sierra Region. Their proposed route is aweinspiring but building that much trail will take a long time to complete. After viewing their film Lost On Purpose, I realized I didn’t have to wait for the completion of the trails to explore this area. There’s already a vast network of gravel roads throughout the Lost Sierra. It’s a bikepacker’s paradise.

After months of mapping, scouting, and waiting for snowmelt, I finalized a 250-mile dirt touring route that highlights some of the stunning landscape the Lost Sierra is famous for. Utilizing modern mapping applications, I targeted the specific towns I wanted to travel to and strung them together to create the overall route. Though I planned to do this ride solo, I kept fellow riders in mind who might also enjoy embarking on this journey in the future, so making the route feasible, enjoyable, challenging, and inspiring was all part of the plan.

From traversing challenging 7,500foot mountain passes to meandering through tranquil river canyons, this route offers a captivating diversity of backcountry landscapes together with the occasional comforts of civilization along the way.

My goal was to complete the journey in five days, which meant I would be cycling about 60 miles and climbing 6,000 feet of vert per day,

predominantly on dirt trails. Despite possessing a substantial background in cycling, racing, and coaching, I harbored doubts about my ability to tackle such a feat as I had just recently returned to cycling after a five-year hiatus.

TRAINING

In anticipation of my long journey on dirt, I started to challenge myself on some longer rides, dial in my gear, and do a few smaller one and two night trips to get the rhythm down and figure out what worked and what did not.

I looked at other bikepacking routes that inspired me and ended up doing a route that traversed the Santa Cruz Mountains for three days as a full shakedown ride which proved to be very successful.

After that, I did a few more overnight trips and after five solo bikepacking expeditions I had dialed my gear and dialed my headspace — I was feeling ready to take on the Lost Sierra Route.

THE ROUTE

The beauty of the route is its flexibility to start and end in any of the towns. I decided to start and end in Truckee, since it’s the easiest town to get to for people traveling to the area and it made sense for the resupply layout.

• Truckee to Downieville // 55 miles, 4K of climbing. Relatively easy, the descent into Downievlle is challenging. The first day travels quickly out of Truckee, diving off the beaten trail, as you travel into Jackson Meadows and along the historic Henness Pass Road before dropping into Downieville for a resupply and camping spot on the North Yuba River.

Downieville is a great town in general and an even better place to resupply on any backcountry trip. It has a few restaurants, inns, a general store, bike shop, hardware store and two snow melt rivers merging into town. Waking up riverside just outside of Downvielle I was feeling alive.

• Downievelle to Florentine Canyon // 28 miles, 6.5K of climbing. Hard, the most difficult day.

From Downieville, the route swiftly climbs 3,000 feet from the river’s edge to the top of the Sierra Buttes crest. This section is brutal and I started second guessing myself during this part of the ride.

A portion of this leg follows the renowned Downieville Classic Mountain Bike Race course, including the notorious ‘Baby Heads’ section — a treacherous descent riddled with loose rocks known for causing spills and flat tires. Descending ‘Baby Heads’ on a touring bike proved to be a blend of laughter and tears, embodying the essence of Type II fun.

Camping at the top of the ridge was amazing, and one of the best nights I had on the trip. Though this day’s route was shorter in distance, technically it was the crux of the trip and I felt accomplished when I settled in for the night.

Camping at the top of the ridge was amazing, and one of the best nights I had on the trip. Though this day’s route was shorter in distance, technically it was the crux of the trip and I felt accomplished when I settled in for the night.

• Florentine Canyon to Taylorsville // 54 miles, 5.5K of climbing. Hard, 2 plus hours of climbing.

The next day, I knew I had a lot of miles to cover, but the road surfaces were smoother and travel would be quicker. The most difficult part would be the climb up Mount Hough at the end of the day.

Although the two hour climb up Hough was challenging, I reminded myself to take it easy and enjoy the ride. Along the way, I couldn’t help but chuckle as I witnessed multiple bike shuttles from Quincy ferrying mountain bikers to the top for the exhilarating downhill ride.

Upon reaching the summit, I began my own descent toward Taylorsville to conclude the day’s ride. The town

welcomed me with open arms, offering amenities like The Grizzly Bite Cafe, an excellent general store, and a riverside campground with hot showers — a perfect spot to resupply and rejuvenate.

• Taylorsville to Lake Davis // 54 miles, 5K of climbing. Relatively easy, moderately smooth gravel.

From Taylorsville the route hits the northernmost portion of the Sierra Nevada and the terrain is high and dry. This leg features Antelope Lake and Lake Davis with lots of interesting terrain in between.

Antelope Lake is pretty wild, with a lot of strange rock features and interesting things to look at. The area around Lake Davis is used by the SBTS

HISTORIC AND NOTEWORTHY FEATURES OF THIS RIDE

Henness Pass Road served as a vital emigrant trail in the mid-1800s, providing essential resupply points for miners and travelers.

Downieville, CA, established in 1849 during the Gold Rush, retains its historic charm as a mountain bike destination with a population of approximately 290.

The towering Sierra Buttes, featured in National Geographic, offer a majestic backdrop to the southern portion of the route.

The Middle Fork of the Feather River, designated as a Wild and Scenic River, adds rugged beauty and essential water access to the route.

Taylorsville, CA, established in the mid-1850s, serves as a resupply point in the Indian Valley, with amenities including a general store, restaurant, and full-service campground.

Antelope Lake provides remote beauty with panoramic views and developed camping facilities.

Beyond Lake Davis, renowned for trophy trout fishing and scenic lakeside camping, the route winds through Sierra Valley, the largest sub-alpine valley in the American West, passing through small towns like Portola and Loyalton.

Opposite page: The author feeling a profound sense of accomplishment as he gets ready to leave Lake Davis for the final leg of his journey, heading back to Truckee. This page, top photos, top to bottom: Top of the Sierra Buttes and the highest elevation on the route; Jackson Meadows Reservoir on the first day out of Truckee. This page, bottom photos, left to right: Smooth gravel travel near Lake Davis; A well-earned burger and fries in Downieville at the end of day one.

Lost and Found Gravel events and the roads are scenic and epic. I camped at Lake Davis and my wife came out to meet me and brought some car camping gear and our dog. We had a great night and I was happy to have a well cooked meal and birthday cupcake

• Lake Davis to Truckee // 58 miles, 3.2K of climbing. Easiest day, asphalt and smooth gravel.

The route combines The Tahoe, Sierra and Plumas National Forests and travels to the northernmost edge of the Sierra Nevada. It averages about 60 miles with approximately 6,000 feet of climbing per day, predominantly on dirt trails.

Once back on the dirt, Smith Neck Road travels back to Truckee via as I celebrated my 45th birthday.

This day begins with about 15

miles of pavement, which was much appreciated at this point of the tour. Smooth asphalt and 15 mph never felt better.

Stampede Reservoir with some pretty smooth gravel road surfaces. The last few miles I decided to take some singletrack around the Prosser Hills area and I enjoyed meeting runners, hikers, dog walkers and other bikers. It was nice to be back into society, but I took my time getting to the car because I was sad to see the adventure come to an end.

Above: Views like this are found along the scenic roads in Quincy. Opposite page, top to bottom: One of the countless alpine lakes along the route; Smooth gravel high plains logging roads on the easternmost portion of the Sierra Nevada.

REFLECTIONS AND BEYOND

The ride ended up being just over 250 miles with 26,000 feet of climbing in five days. I adventured solo except for the night camping with my wife and our dog.

I rode my trusty steel Kona gravel bike with 2” wide tires packed with everything I needed. It felt amazing, just what I was looking for — a route that physically challenged me and mentally awakened me.

After posting the ride to the Ride With GPS website’s ambassador’s route section, a few people reached out and wanted to learn more, and I happily shared as much info as possible.

IMPORTANT REMINDERS

Some were only interested in doing an overnight or breaking it up into multiple trips. I’ve enjoyed emailing and speaking with those folks and helping them find their little version of the Lost Sierra Route. When they reported back, I was thrilled to hear how much they enjoyed themselves and it seemed like they had just as much fun as I did.

Go to bikepackingroots.org to view the route online. Learn more about the Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship and their Connected Communities project at SierraTrails.org View the film and get the link to route details for this ride at lostsierra.adventuresportsjournal.com.

• This is a seasonal route with snow and weather impacting travel. The best time of year is mid summer to late fall once the snow melts. Check the weather forecast as sections can be very hot and nights can be very cold.

• Parking is limited in Truckee.

• Resupplies are plentiful in towns along the way, check store hours as they may close before dark.

• Dispersed camping is allowed in the majority of the National Forest except for restricted areas, check local regulations.

• Developed camping is plentiful, but fills up in the summer so make reservations well in advance.

• Bring a water filter, there is plenty of drinkable water along the route in rivers, lakes and streams — but it needs to be filtered to be drinkable

• Cell service is very limited.

• Bike shops are limited to Downieville and Quincy and have limited mountain town hours!

REDISCOVER THE MAGIC OF THE TRAIL

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Hike or bike through breathtaking landscapes and create lasting memories.

This stunning trail offers a unique opportunity to explore the beauty of the region as Carson City’s first single-track connection to Lake Tahoe.

Inyo Mountains Wilderness

Discovering California’s secluded sanctuary of spirituality and solitude

By Leonie Sherman

Tucked away in southeastern California, ranging from 282 feet below sea level to over 14,000 feet above it, Inyo County is larger than Connecticut, Rhode Island and Delaware combined. 49 countries are smaller. And yet, less than 19,000 people live there. That’s about two people per square mile. Wyoming is crowded by comparison.

Rising like a backbone between Owens Valley to the west and Saline Valley to the east, the Inyo Mountains are roughly 70 miles long and about 10 miles wide. To the north, Westgard Pass separates them from the White Mountains; their southern terminus is in the desiccated Owens Lake bed. They’re a fault block range, the result of rifting or stretching of the earth’s crust which shoved up mountains in its wake. The Inyo and White Mountains together form the western edge of the Great Basin, our nation’s largest continuous watershed and the first in a series of parallel ranges that go all the way to Utah. These mountains are the historic homeland of the Mono, Coso, Timbisha and Paiute people, who’ve stewarded the land for thousands of years. When Europeans asked Indigenous people what they called the mountains and surrounding land they replied “Inyo”. Some scholars believe “Inyo” was a mistranslation of the word “Indio” or “Indian”; natives were trying to explain that the land and surrounding peaks belonged to them. Some historians speculate that natives meant the land belonged to the Shoshone and their chief, Inyo. And many believe that the word “Inyo” means “dwelling place of the Great Spirit”.

Wherever the name came from, a single visit can leave even an agnostic convinced that the Great Spirit dwells here in these jagged peaks. Endemic plants and animals also dwell here, like the slender salamander, which lives in 15 desert springs throughout the range and nowhere else on earth. The Inyo rock daisy, bristle stone cryptantha, and cliffdweller’s cryptantha have adapted to the mountains’ unique limestone soil; their delicate blooms are found only on these rocky slopes. Mollusks and sharks lived here 325 million years ago in a warm-water Paleozoic sea; their fossils are found on the crest at elevations between 8,000 and 9,000 feet.

From the crest, the Sierra Nevada fills the western horizon, a panorama of dazzling alpine glory. To the north, the oldest trees on the planet cling to desert slopes 10,000 feet above sea level. The fiery furnace of Death Valley, the hottest place on the planet, driest and lowest place in the country, beckons to the east. Millions of people from around the globe are drawn to these marvels every year, and Inyo National Forest gets more visitors than any other.

No one really knows how many people visit the Inyo Mountains every year. No permits are required, so there are no records. Although they’re in the nation’s

most populous state, within a three hour drive for more than five million people, hardly anyone explores the Inyo Mountains backcountry. An Inyo Mountains rambler is almost guaranteed solitude. Standing in the rain shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevada, Inyo Mountain heights are accessible in early season. The price of entry is about 6,000 feet of climbing

on foot from the west side, or a grinding two-hour boulder crawl in a high clearance 4WD. Our crew spent an hour rebuilding a collapsed road bed just to get to the start of our hike.

We stopped at the Saline Valley Salt Tram to peruse the well preserved remains of what was once the nation’s steepest tram. Covering 13 miles and

Many modern wilderness areas require on-line reservations, ranger approved itineraries and even video screenings. Stepping into the Inyo Mountains Wilderness felt like stepping back to a time when wilderness required radical selfreliance and cooperation, when Leave No Trace principles were guided by moral convictions not law enforcement.

constructed in two years, the aerial electric tram carried salt from Saline Valley, over the Inyo Mountains and into Owens Valley. Three different companies ran the tram for 22 years until the last one holding the lease went bankrupt in 1935. On the final day of 1974 the tram was included in the National Registry of Historic Places.

Two decades after the tram was preserved, Congress designated the Inyo Mountains Wilderness, 198,360 acres of wild nature, “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man [sic],

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Opposite page, top to bottom: The first step is the hardest (Kristofer Miller); Getting there is half the fun (Abby Wines); Flowers in the desert (Abby Wines). This page: Remnants of the Saline Valley Salt Tram (Kristofer Miller).

where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.”

Many modern wilderness areas require on-line reservations, ranger approved itineraries and even video screenings. Stepping into the Inyo Mountains Wilderness felt like stepping back to a time when wilderness required radical self-reliance and cooperation, when Leave No Trace principles were guided by moral convictions not law enforcement.

Our group spent days crossing sparsely vegetated slopes, laboring over rocky passes, marveling at lush riparian zones, strolling through pine forests, navigating crusty snowfields, gawking at mining detritus and

No

one really knows how many people visit the Inyo Mountains every year. No permits are required, so there are no records. Although they’re in the nation’s most populous state ... hardly anyone explores the Inyo Mountains backcountry.

admiring dewy wildflowers. We paid respect to a bighorn skeleton below a cliff and visited a well preserved shack where we read old Sierra bulletins about others who lost and found themselves among these remote peaks.

There are only 22 named Inyo mountains. At 11,128 feet, Wacouba is the highest, with a clean prominence of 3,923 feet, meaning it looms above the surrounding terrain. Wind carved snags, foxtail and white bark pine cling to life on its barren slopes. Keynot, New York Butte and Mount Inyo are all part of the Desert Peaks Section List.

Eight canyons on the east side of the range have running water, a miracle in the desert. A lot of that water is several thousand feet down from the crest. Some of it is guarded by vicious thorny vegetation. All of it seems to require advanced witchery, previous experience or extreme bushwhacking to access.

Trails are sparse and hard to follow. Our group hiked about half of the 40mile Lonesome Miner Trail, one of the more popular routes in the region. We lost the trail frequently. One talus laden mile took our group almost three hours to cover. GPS tracks are mandatory.

I may not have ventured so deep into the Inyo Mountains without the company of experienced folks who had visited before. I’m not sure when I’ll return. But exploring the dwelling place of the Great Spirit reminded a skeptic like myself that when we visit sacred ground, we find the holy within; the Great Spirit dwells in each of us.

Top to bottom: Lonesome Miner’s shack, high on a windswept ridge (Leonie Sherman); A bighorn sheep who didn’t make it (Kristofer Miller); Mining detritus from the recent past (Abby Wines).

Clean Climbing’s New Opportunity

… not gear but an attitude

Doug Robinson

Doug Robinson is widely credited as the “Father of Clean Climbing.” His manifesto in the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Catalog, The Whole Natural Art of Protection, sparked that revolution. Then he slam-dunked it with the first hammerless ascent of Half Dome alongside Galen Rowell and Dennis Hennek, which became the cover story in National Geographic, June 1974

Clean climbing was truly a revolution, a groundswell arising from climbers themselves, over 50 years ago. It saved the rocks of the world from damage we had made, chipping away at their cracks with hard steel pitons. Coming together, we devised a gentler technology of nuts and runners. Cams came along a decade later.

Clean climbing arrived just in time to support the largest shift, ever, in the evolution of climbing, from bashing up rock walls by direct aid to free climbing them. Boldness reasserted itself, backed solidly by advancing finesse and gathering strength, to meet the rock on its own terms. Strong, sure, easilyremovable protection was crucially enabling. Free freedom!

Such can-do attitudes, based on respect for the steep rockiness we love, still drive climberst today. Now there are more of us — many more. Now our personal behavior matters like never before. Now we have better technology, like poop tubes on El Cap. Our vertical practices, though, are still based on love. On big respect for the wild space we call home. And on sharing this experience with our fellow humans of the future.

Today’s revolution is to broaden that respect. The heart of our original practice was not devising gear but an attitude. Protecting the cracks has been handled. By cleverly using non-damaging nuts and runners, we stopped cold that march of destruction. Since then, we’ve been steadily widening our scope to the entire climbing environment, like use trails. Like not girdling cliffside trees by draping our rap ropes around them. Today that broadening scope includes getting to the crags, by tuning our transportation technology so its exhaust treads more lightly on the sky we all breathe.

An Expanded Opportunity

Let me expand, for a moment, on our transportation edge. That has become a personal focus, for I believe that getting to the crags is the ‘dirtiest’ impact I have left. We can carpool. Go electric. I rarely fly anymore, to cut my carbon load. A seat in the sky has about the same carbon exhaust as driving a Prius, which I do. It is my belief that the CO2 in its exhaust is better absorbed by the roadside sage brush – after all, plants breathe it — as I ramble around the West, rather than injecting it into the stratosphere, where it only encourages more global warming.

My scope is not “just” the Valley anymore. City of Rocks. Boulder’s Flatirons. Gorgeous sandstone across Utah. It’s an open secret that there is fresh rock everywhere. There’s a Joshua-Tree-like expanse near Lone Mountain, close to Tonopah, Nevada. And I have stumbled upon expansive new granite crags at Stone Corral in the Mineral Range, near Milford, Utah. I hope to graduate to a hydrogen car for getting there, where the exhaust is water, as soon as possible. Now that there are so many more of us climbing, everything we do has become crucial. Expanded, yes — and we’ve still got this.

Climbers are poised to be in the vanguard once again. Such a powerful band of tribal kinship! We send. We’ve been to the Olympics. We are strong. And savvy. We’re cutting edge. And most of all, heartfelt. We are so ready to pay this forward.

And we can act on an unprecedented stage — the entire planet. We did that before too. Clean Climbing swept the world within months in the 1970s. Suddenly, no one wanted to be seen in Camp 4 with a hammer and pitons. Now the world itself is at risk and, as the authors of one of the very first environmental movements anywhere, climbers are even more ready this time.

A New Problem

This time we have a more local problem to solve first, on our way to saving the planet. Land agencies in this country have begun to see our fixed anchors in Wilderness as a problem. Bolts.

Even old, fixed pitons and rap slings. We’re talking the big guys, the United States Forest Service and National Park Service. Wilderness now starts right off the road in Yosemite. So, climbing on El Capitan, for instance, is at risk. If its bolts were removed? Then, Alex Honnold’s solo may become its only allowable ascent. And all the rest of our historic stomping grounds in Yosemite Valley could be forbidden. Likewise, throughout the Sierra. Across the country. Colorado. The Cascades. Devils Tower. Fine granite in Oklahoma’s Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

Fixed anchors mean bolts. Without them, not even one of El Capitan’s routes will be climbable. No rap anchors mean you won’t be able to get back down either. The venerable Royal Arches, put up in 1936, goes clean. But its rap route will not. Might we be forced — on one of the few routes left to us in Yosemite — to end a wonderful day of romping up the rocks by descending the steep slabs of North Dome Gully?

This concern elevates. Take North Palisade, which is the iconic alpine climb of the High Sierra. Its U-Notch gully has been melting as the Earth warms. What was put up as fourthclass snow has been dwindling with climate change to reveal a mandatory 5.7 pitch. Above, 800 feet of steep snow and ice gets respect in crampons. Coming back down is usually a rap, from piton anchor stations in the gully’s sheer walls. Now that long rap route is in question too.

To begin, we can show we’re sincere

— and powerful — by cleaning up in our own realm. On the rocks. In the mountains. We know these places better than anyone. Starting with humble respect for vegetation along the approach trail. It’s a chance to show our true leverage as climbers. We got this!

Click the QR code to reach the Climber’s Credo online and follow the link to add your name to the list of supporters committed to helping protect Yosemite’s vertical Wilderness.

Doug Robinson bouldering in the Palisades in 1971, with North Palisade over his shoulder (Gordon Wiltsie).

The Climber’s Credo Upholding ethics and Wilderness values for future generations

Yosemite Climbing Association

Yosemite National Park is a global center for big wall climbing, known for pushing the limits of climbing techniques and human endurance. For climbers, it’s a place of wild adventure and community. Our care for climbing areas affects regulations and future access. In response to potential fixed anchor bans in Wilderness areas, the climbing community must uphold shared ethics to protect Yosemite’s vertical wilderness and the adventure it provides.

Defined by the Wilderness Act of 1964, Wilderness areas in Yosemite are places where nature is untrammeled by humans. With most of the park designated as Wilderness, many routes fall under this highest protection, allowing climbers to experience true freedom and adventure.

The Yosemite Climbing Association (YCA), in collaboration with local climbers and Yosemite Climbing Rangers, has developed a set of community values inspired by the Clean Climbing Manifesto of 1972. These values emphasize restraint in Wilderness, respect for Indigenous rights, protection of wildlife, and advocacy against threats to our climbing areas.

The Climber’s Credo aims to guide Yosemite’s climbing community and land managers in promoting minimum impact climbing ethics and safeguarding the park’s Wilderness and climbing culture.

SHOW RESPECT

Respect the mountains and cliffs, the cultural heritage past and present, other climbers, climbing history, and the legacy of traditional and clean climbing which started here in Yosemite, seeking wisdom from the walls and peaks.

ACT WITH HUMILITY

Honor the sacredness of this place by recognizing that we are transitory beings. As we seek to experience adventure, we understand the importance of leaving minimal signs of our presence on the cliffs and boulders of Yosemite.

In climbing with humility, we strive to follow the model of stewardship of the land, recognizing that Wilderness provides an opportunity to experience the Earth on its own terms. Learn from being fully present and aware while in the mountains and on the walls of Yosemite—about ourselves and the Wilderness around us.

SEEK KNOWLEDGE

Come to Yosemite with an open mind, humbly seeking opportunities to learn.

Read, understand, and observe Yosemite National Park’s climbing

regulations, put in place to protect Yosemite’s climbing areas. Gain a deeper understanding of this place by exploring Yosemite’s natural and cultural history— from the geological origins of Yosemite Valley to the present-day practices of Indigenous people.

Talk to the community—elders and peers alike—to understand the connection between climbers and their effect on the land and each other. Visit the Yosemite Climbing Museum in Mariposa and the Yosemite Exploration Center climbing exhibit to learn how “Golden Age” climbers developed clean climbing techniques—embracing minimum impact ethics and the groundup style of alpine climbing.

REVEL IN THE EXPERIENCE

Embrace the expansive process of moving on rock, in contrast to the confines of the gym. Climb to connect with the Yosemite landscape, flora, fauna, and rock formations, rather than climbing for commercial gain or bragging rights. Develop a relationship of reciprocity, seeking opportunities to give back as much as you receive.

PREPARE TO BE SAFE

Yosemite climbing is an adventure sport that comes with unavoidable risks. Approach it with due diligence: practice reading the terrain, consult written and oral resources, pay attention to weather, climbing techniques, and basic selfrescue for the climbing you intend to do. “Check yourself (and your partners) before you wreck yourself!” can be a matter of life and death.

EXERCISE RESTRAINT

It is a privilege to be allowed to place, use, and maintain fixed anchors (e.g., bolts, pins, slings, etc.) in Wilderness. Sometimes bolts or other fixed gear might be needed as a last resort. When establishing routes, climbers should use natural protection whenever it is available. Once a bolt is placed, the nature of the experience is changed, and other climbers may no longer have the opportunity to attempt the route without it. Let’s take care to keep these walls and domes as close to their natural

condition as possible so that future generations can experience the essence of Wilderness climbing.

PRESERVE WILDERNESS CHARACTER

Local ethics include accepting established routes as they are, not adding new bolts, and avoiding nailing whenever possible. Yosemite has always been a traditional climbing area with few sport climbs, which are established mostly in non-Wilderness areas close to roads and development. Let’s continue to respect that tradition. Keep it Wild by not creating new bolt ladders or convenience anchors, using motorized drills, or leaving fixed lines for prolonged periods. Respect the rock by not chipping or gluing holds—understanding the importance of preserving Yosemite’s vertical Wilderness.

SEEK ADVENTURES WITH MINIMAL EFFECT ON OTHERS

Strive to keep a low profile, allowing others to enjoy solitude, challenging ourselves to climb and descend routes without stashing gear, dumping gear, or leaving fixed ropes to assist our ascents. If there is a need to fix ropes, do so minimally, without impacting other climbers’ experiences by leaving them for prolonged periods or fixing on popular routes. Be mindful that often we aren’t alone on the mountain.

BE A STEWARD

Respect natural processes of change as they are—undomesticated and untamed. Embrace inconvenience over human domination by not cutting limbs, only cleaning the holds we need on routes or boulders, refraining from systematically removing vegetation, or otherwise disturbing natural flora and fauna. We are visitors to their home, and it’s our responsibility to care for them! Pack it in, pack it out. Keep it Wild!

ASK FOR CONSENT AND OFFER CIVILITY

Understand: “yes” means yes and “no” means no—at the crag, on walls, when you want to pass another party,

in camp, and during quiet hours. Engage in respectful dialogue when it feels safe and disengage when it doesn’t. Take it further, and extend this to the mountains, the plants, the critters, the water, and the wind by genuinely asking for permission.

EMBRACE COMMUNITY AND INCLUSIVITY

Everyone is welcome in this place, this sport, and this community. We celebrate the diversity of the opinions, backgrounds, abilities, and experiences we each bring to it. In Yosemite, beginners are often side by side with professional climbers and first ascensionists. Recognize that everyone has an equal right to enjoy minimal impact climbing. Commit to being friendly, helpful, and courteous to all people—honoring their stories and perspectives, even when different from our own.

HONOR THE HERITAGE AND LEGACY OF YOSEMITE

Every climber becomes a part of Yosemite climbing’s legacy. As we continue to have conversations around the campfire, at the boulders, in El Cap Meadow, at the Tuolumne Store, and in all our favorite climbing hangs about what it means to be a Yosemite climber, we can ask ourselves: What elements of our culture do we want to grow away from, and what elements do we want to embrace? How do we want to be remembered? How can we fulfill our intentions to be better stewards, to learn from the community, and to help preserve Yosemite’s vertical Wilderness?

TAKE THE LEAD

Commit to being a leader in the ethics we want to promote—mentor others to climb smarter, safer and cleaner; support other climbers and help them achieve their goals. Look for the chance to give back to Yosemite by volunteering in a meaningful way.

Go to yosemiteclimbing. org/yosemite-climberscredo to learn more and sign your name in support.

KARMA QUEST

Boldness, survival, and friendship on the south face of Half Dome

By Matt Niswonger

For Yosemite climbers, the south face of Half Dome has a wild history. Over the last fifty years the vast wall has been the scene of several high-profile accidents and rescues. It’s also been a proving ground for the boldest climbers to test themselves.

Known as the “back side” of Half Dome, the south face is invisible to tourists who travel around Yosemite Valley in cars, RVs, and buses. Completely exposed to the baking summer sun and winter avalanches, it overlooks Little Yosemite Valley (LYV), a secluded alpine meadow that is perched high above the hustle and bustle of Yosemite Valley proper.

Climbers attempting routes here must first hike about six hours up the John Muir trail and enter LYV. From there an intimidating white wall rises for thousands of vertical feet above the trees. Unlike the iconic northwest face, the south face has very few cracks. The only obvious feature is a gigantic curving corner system that ends less than halfway up the vast wall.

This curving corner system is the start of the South Face Route, and the location of the 1968 rescue of climbers attempting the south face.

Rowell and Harding Rescue in 1968

Yosemite legend Warren Harding was in his midforties in 1968 and he was at the height of his climbing power. He was the biggest name in American rock climbing at the time, along with his Yosemite rival, Royal Robbins. Harding coveted a first ascent on the mysterious south face of Half Dome, partly because

Royal Robbins had already climbed the northwest face.

Harding’s partner and protégé was Galen Rowell, who later became a world-famous adventure photographer. The pair started up the wall in early November 1968 expecting sunny conditions and a six-day climb.

According to the accident report later published in the American Alpine Journal, the pair were trapped when a sudden storm blasted them with icy rain and snow at 8000’. Slowly freezing to death in their hanging bivouac, Harding and Rowell attempted to keep climbing, but the wall was covered in ice. Struggling to keep warm in wet sleeping bags, their bivouac was threatening to become an icy tomb.

“Rowell tried to rappel off the route but when he descended about 80 feet [and] tried to traverse into a bolt ladder, he couldn’t get traction because of ice on the wall,” wrote National Park Service (NPS) Ranger Pete Pederson in the original accident report.

Harding and Rowell became desperate and transmitted an SOS signal via a small CB radio to a friend who was camping in LYV. “Royal Robbins, myself, Kim Schmitz and a few others were flown from the Valley floor to the summit of Half Dome via multiple trips in the small NPS helicopter,” recalled climbing ranger Joe McKeown. From the rounded top

of the monolith, Robbins was lowered down to the hypothermic climbers. The rescue operation took all night and by morning everyone had been flown back to the Valley floor. Harding and Rowell were one of the strongest teams in American climbing and they were completely shut down by the extreme weather of the south face.

Bosque, Corbett and Middendorf South Face Rescue, 1986

Another high-profile rescue of expert climbers occurred in 1986 when Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett, and John Middendorf were trapped almost 20 years later at nearly the same exact spot. These three climbers had also underestimated the firehose of ice and snow that blasts the wall during storms.

Yosemite search and rescue (YOSAR) technician John Dill remembers that “We were all busy keeping the roads open during the March 1986 storm and probably didn’t know anyone was up on the south face of Half Dome. Tracy Dorton gets a shoutout for raising the initial alarm.”

Completely immobilized by ice, the trio were staring down the barrel of a major Sierra storm set to shut down the Valley in less than 12 hours. Given the small window to save three lives, YOSAR

officer Mike Murray ordered all-hands-on-deck with a multi-pronged rescue campaign involving ground teams and helicopters. The ground team would hike towards the east shoulder of Half Dome (this is the easiest route to the top) and Murray contacted Naval Air Station Lemoore for a possible helicopter assist.

“The first ground team passed through Little Yosemite Valley at about 0130 and reported that the weather was clearing. We were all at the east shoulder of Half Dome by daylight, but the cables were pretty dangerous, and Lemoore was arriving, so we prepped our gear and waited to see if the helicopter could pull it off,” explained Dill.

After the ground team was slowed by ice and snow on the bald granite of Half Dome’s east shoulder, the situation became a risky deja vu of the Harding/ Rowell rescue from 20 years earlier. “The cables on the east shoulder of Half Dome were completely buried in snow and ice. With weather coming in

Opposite page, top to bottom: From left to right, Dave Schultz, Jim Campbell, and Ken Yager on the summit of Half Dome after the 1986 first ascent of Karma (Ken Yager collection); Mike Corbett being lifted from the South Face Route during the March 1986 rescue (Steve Bosque). This page, clockwise from left: The south face of Half Dome from Little Yosemite Valley (Ken Yager); Corbett removing snow from his hanging camp on the South Face Route (Steve Bosque); Schultz working the moves on the Karma dike during the 20162021 all-free attempt (Brooke Sandahl); The summit of Half Dome after the 1968 rescue. From left to right, Kim Schmitz, Tom Kimbrough, Royal Robbins, Galen Rowell, Pete Pederson, and Warren Harding with blue vest. (Joe McKeown).

there wasn’t time to get to the summit,” said rescue climber Schultz, who was a member of the ground team alongside his future wife Sue.

Forced into a risky helicopter rescue, Murray sent his aerial team in motion.

At the time, helicopter rescue techniques on vertical big walls were still being developed. As the helicopter approached the stricken climbers the pilot was dealing with gusty winds and looming granite close to his rotor blades. To get a rescuer to the hanging bivouac, the pilot had to lower him on a hoist.

Careful not to smash the rescue technician into the wall, the pilot managed to hoist the most critical climber first — Corbett. After that, Steve Bosque remembers slipping into the harness and swinging from the wall into space. “It was scary to commit to swinging into space under the helicopter with just my arms through the horse collar and the medic holding me with his legs. I was also incredibly joyful

to be heading home,” remembered Bosque during a recent phone call.

“The day we were rescued off the face and deposited in the Valley, the San Francisco Chronicle ran a story on Harding and Rowell’s 1968 rescue replete with eerie color photos of the place we had just been. Very strange. And, on a more personal note, I was thinking mightily about my two-yearold daughter, which gave me reason and strength to persevere, and she announced to my wife that ‘Daddy is ok now’ before the Park Service announced the rescue was a success,” continued Bosque.

Karma

Perhaps the most infamous route on the backside of Half Dome is the 1986 dike odyssey known as Karma. Established in bold style, without rappelling down to preview the route, Karma was an adventure masterpiece put up by Dave Schultz, Ken Yager and Jim Campbell. After some investigation of the initial pitches the trio cast off and became fully committed as retreat was nearly impossible past a certain point. The incredible dike feature that became the climbing route Karma has been compared to a curving dragon spine for its similarity to gigantic vertebrae. Geologically speaking, the “dikes” on Half Dome (and elsewhere

in the Sierra) are magmatic structures that form lines of crystal protrusions that can run for great distances across the granite faces. Dike routes can be quite inspiring for climbers but they can be quite dangerous too. Dikes are difficult to protect and the sharp crystals can cut through ropes. Even the easiest dike climb on Half Dome, a route known as Snake Dike on the west shoulder, has been the scene of serious accidents since the first ascent in 1965 by Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell and Chris Fredericks.

In 1986 Dave “Iron Monkey” Schultz, a talented acolyte of legendary Yosemite free soloist John Bachar, was looking for potential routes on the south face of Half Dome. He spotted the Karma dike with binoculars and recruited his friend Campbell to help him attempt the line. After working the first couple of pitches they knew they needed someone on the team with multi-day big wall experience so they reached out to Yager. With enough food, water, and gear for 4-6 days of climbing, the trio cast off into the unknown. What followed was a harrowing epic that pushed the team into deep survival mode.

“Schultz led most of the pitches and sometimes he was climbing for his life,” remembered Yager. “There were desperate sections of sideways

climbing with no hand holds. Schultz was fighting hard not to fall over backwards while dike stepping. He faced a series of monster falls with rope chopping potential. Schultz was very confident in the beginning, but over time the stress was pushing us all to the breaking point.”

When they got to the rounded top of Half Dome, the trio rested for a while then staggered towards the cables for the long hike home. Like shipwreck survivors the three men were grateful to be alive. “The climb was terrifying. We barely survived,” explained Schultz during a recent phone interview. “We had no desire to ever try it again.”

Karma showed up in Yosemite climbing guidebooks, but the reputation of the route kept climbers away. For the next 30 years Karma faded into obscurity.

The following year Schultz established the route Southern Belle to the left of the Harding/Rowell South Face route. With long stretches of desperate climbing between bolts, Southern Belle cemented Schultz’s reputation as a fearless badass. During the next 20 years a few bold climbers tested themselves against Southern Belle and Climbing magazine wrote some articles about it. A strong climber named Hank Caylor broke his ankle during a 70-80 foot fall on the crux pitch in the late 1990s and Southern Belle became a

With long stretches of desperate climbing between bolts, Southern Belle cemented Schultz’s reputation as a fearless badass.

feared testpiece.

With a broken ankle, Caylor crawled his way back to the Valley floor and finally made it to the hospital. After this, only the boldest climbers stepped up to Southern Belle and nobody attempted Karma.

Taking his focus off the south face of Half Dome, Schultz moved on to other projects and stunt work. He became one of the top stunt riggers in Hollywood and worked on the Matrix films and the Ironman movies. Schultz’s willingness to commit to sparsely protected 5.12+ lead climbing without rehearsal was bold and almost unheard of. It took nearly 20 years for Southern Belle to be repeated and Karma sat empty as the decades went by.

Free Karma

In 2010 Ken Yager posted photos from the 1986 ascent on SuperTopo, an online chatboard. Next to the photos was an intriguing headline: “Free Karma?”. The post prompted a few comments and questions, but nobody was interested in accepting the challenge of going back to the infamous route and attempting a second ascent. Nobody that is, except Brooke Sandahl.

By 2010 Sandahl was a leading Yosemite big wall free climber. Alongside Lynn Hill, he had helped usher in the era of Yosemite big wall free climbing in the 1990s with an allfree ascent of the Nose route of El Capitan.

This page, clockwise from left: Dave Schultz setting his feet to hand drill a bolt during the 1986 first ascent of Karma (Ken Yager); Schultz hand-railing the Karma dike during the 2016-2021 all free attempt (Brooke Sandahl); Brooke Sandahl right after Schultz’s heart attack and subsequent helicopter rescue from Little Yosemite Valley (Brooke Sandahl). Opposite page: Ken Yager belays while Schultz scopes out the next pitch during the 1986 first ascent of Karma (Jim Campbell).

In climbing parlance, to “free” a previously established big wall route means going back and using fingers and toes to ascend the extremely desperate sections that were initially engineered with pitons and rope ladders. In Yosemite, the hardest routes were often a mix of aid climbing and free climbing. Top climbers from around the world come to convert these routes to 100% free climbs.

As one of the climbers who helped usher in the era of Yosemite big wall free climbing, Sandahl saw Karma as a futuristic line that was both mysterious and irresistible. “When I saw the photos of Karma that Ken Yager posted on SuperTopo I was blown away. It was a beautiful line from a different era,” explained Sandahl during a recent phone interview. He called Dave Schultz the next day and tried to persuade him to join forces to free the line. At first Schultz’s answer was a hard no.

“The 1986 Karma ascent was the most stressful Yosemite climb I’ve ever done,” said Schultz during our interview. “It was terrifying.”

Eventually Schultz relented because he knew equipping the route for a free ascent would ensure that Karma could be enjoyed by future generations. In its current state Karma would probably never be repeated. Reluctantly he

and working the pitches on Karma.

“We would hike up in early September because the temperatures were cooler on the south-facing wall,” said Sandahl. “We started from the ground and slowly started making the route safer and more logical. We upgraded the belays and added a few lead bolts, but we kept the bold nature of the route. We started using double ropes to lead the pitches to reduce the ropechopping potential of the dike.”

By 2020 they were ready to rappel down from the top of Half Dome to set lines that would allow them to equip the upper crux pitches. The short sections of aid climbing on the second half of the route would become 5.13 and 5.13+ free moves. Consistent with Yosemite tradition, these sections had been given sailing names during the 1986 free ascent. Names like Walking the Plank and The Yardarms reflected the fact that a committing multi-day adventure climb like Karma felt like an 1800s sailing odyssey with an uncertain outcome.

Things were going well but Sandahl noticed that Schultz was slowing down. “Schultzy had lost a step but I thought it was just an age thing,” said Sandahl.

As it turned out Schultz had two blocked arteries in his heart. His brain was not getting enough oxygen but his

Soar to New Heights!

point but then I started feeling better,” he explained. What he didn’t know was that he was having a heart attack. He somehow safely rappelled the entire distance of the south face while drifting in and out of consciousness.

That night Schultz told Sandahl he felt terrible. When they went to bed Sandahl was worried about his friend.

The next morning Schultz told Sandahl he felt like a “horse was standing on my chest.” Sandahl stared at him for a minute and realized his friend was having a heart attack and would likely

die without medical attention.

“I gave him a couple of aspirin in a glass of water and ran to get help. When I finally got a cell signal I asked to speak to YOSAR. I requested a ship and we agreed on a rendezvous point a short distance from our campsite. When I returned to Dave I saw that he was fading fast. He was thinking clearly but he was very weak. He seemed to understand that this final short hike to the helicopter rendezvous was a matter of life or death,” remembered Sandahl. Over 30 years after the first ascent,

Schultz was in a race against time to see if he would survive Karma the second time.

“When we finally arrived at the pickup site Dave was beyond exhausted. He was dying right in front of me and all I could think was, ‘Where is that damn helicopter?’”

After waiting for what seemed like hours, Sandahl finally heard the booming echo of a helicopter making its way up the Valley from Ahwahnee Meadow. “Please hurry,” thought Sandahl. When he saw the medic

When he saw the rescue technician being lowered into place he thought to himself, “OK Dave. This is out of my hands now. You got a shot buddy. Just hang in there. Love you.”

being lowered from the helicopter he thought, “OK Dave. This is out of my hands now. You got a shot buddy. Just hang in there. Love you.”

Schultz was strapped into a litter and quickly transported to El Cap Meadow where another helicopter was waiting to take him to a hospital in Modesto. “I remember the first helicopter ride. I was in some pain but not too severe. Then we loaded into the second helicopter and they gave me morphine and I blacked out,” said Schultz. After open-heart surgery Schultz was released from the hospital in only four days. “I felt better almost immediately,” he said.

This page, left to right: Tobias Wolf belaying from the portaledge during the 2023 free ascent of Karma (Oliver Schmidt); Wolf and Oliver Schmidt high-fiving on the summit visor of Half Dome after the successful 2023 free ascent (Tobias Wolf using time lapse photography).

Passing the Torch

Schultz and Sandahl were back on Karma the following September. Schultz was climbing stronger than before and he realized how much the heart blockage had been slowing him down. By the end of 2021 the route was finished and every bit of the line had been freed except for one short section at the beginning of the tenth pitch. Despite repeated attempts the pair could not link the moves.

“By this time we were both in our early sixties. It was not in the cards for us to physically put together the crux moves that we estimated to be close to 5.14 in difficulty,” acknowledged Sandahl. Far from discouraged, the two men were extremely proud of how Karma turned out. “It was still bold but not insanely dangerous like before. It was now a world-class climb with upgraded anchors to challenge the next generation,” he added. After trying to free the crux without success, Sandahl and Schultz graciously opened the route up to others.

In October of 2023 the next generation stepped up to meet the challenge. Tobias Wolf and Oliver Schmidt, two strong climbers from Germany, came to Yosemite to attempt Free Karma. Wolf had seen the striking route a few years previously. “In 2017 I had a look at the dike that makes up the infamous line called Karma. I was blown away by the beauty of that line, which zigzags up the right side of the big south face,” he wrote in his 2024 American Alpine Journal trip report.

Wolf and Schmidt topped out on the third day of climbing feeling elated. They felt privileged to have accomplished the first free ascent of a true Yosemite classic that had been shrouded in mystery for decades. They also were in awe of the 1986 team of Schultz, Yager, and Campbell.

PS“While climbing the route, I constantly thought about the first ascent. The original bolts were so sparsely placed that just thinking of the potential falls was terrifying,” wrote Wolf.

The End of an Era

After surviving Karma, Southern Belle, and his subsequent heart attack during the free attempt, Schultz’s fascination with the south face of Half Dome came to an end. These days he lives in Bishop with his wife Sue, and they still climb almost every day. “It’s a great way to hang out with friends and stay in shape,” explains Schultz. Now in his mid-sixties, Schultz still occasionally leads 5.12 but he doesn’t pursue bold/ runout climbing anymore. “That’s a young man’s game,” he said with a laugh during our phone call in late June.

As for Ken Yager, he has never forgotten the 1986 Karma adventure.

“When Dave Schultz and Jim Campbell first asked me to join them I said no because I was recovering from knee surgery. I also had a bad feeling about a big climb on the south face. It seemed like a recipe for disaster but Schultz laughed it off and said we’d be fine. Then I found a Native spearpoint while hiking along the base of the south face. The spearpoint was thousands of years old and I took it as a sign. The whole thing seemed like destiny so I agreed to join the team. Schultz and Campbell just smiled like they knew I would say yes the whole time.”

Today, Yager has been climbing in Yosemite for over 50 years. He is the founder and director of the Yosemite Climbing Museum in Mariposa, just outside the entrance to the Valley. He has devoted most of his life to preserving the history of Yosemite climbing, from 1875 to present. “I will never forget the 1986 Karma climb and I feel lucky to have been a part of it,” he shared.

We are saddened to report that John “Deucy” Middendorf passed away from an unexpected stroke while we were working on this story. As a result of his experience on the south face, Deucy devoted his considerable engineering talents to designing better portable climbing ledges (AKA “portaledges”) for hanging bivouacs. His designs have greatly contributed to climber safety. Deucy was a supporter of Adventure Sports Journal and a guiding light for the climbing community in Yosemite, his home base in Tasmania, and all over the world.

Mike Corbett passed away in 2022 from unknown causes. After the 1986 rescue Corbett helped Mark Wellman become the first paraplegic person to ascend El Capitan. Both Corbett and Wellman were invited to the White House to meet president Bush.

Steve Bosque shared with us that the rescue changed his life. Shortly afterwards he switched careers from construction work to “something more centered on helping people.” He eventually became a registered nurse, devoting his career to caring for others, and just recently retired.

During our interview John Dill reflected on the differences between the 1968 rescue and the 1986 rescue:

“In 1970 when I first arrived in Yosemite Valley, rescues were much more informal. It doesn’t mean they were any less successful, it just means everything was much simpler. In November 1968 a handful of skilled climbers were crucial to the successful Harding/Rowell rescue, but what if they weren’t available? As the number of climbers and climbing rescues increased the Park Service had to adjust accordingly. By 1986 YOSAR had a permanent NPS staff plus a pre-selected group of on-call climbers living in Camp 4. That core group, plus advances in rescue equipment and the organizational benefits of the Incident Command System, enabled us to consistently respond to a growing number of climbing emergencies with trained personnel.” — MN

RACE & EVENT CALENDAR

2 — Giro di San Francisco / San Francisco / VeloPromo.com

7 — Mammoth Gran Fondo / Mammoth Lakes / MammothGranFondo.com

7 — Race the Rails / Ely, NV / ElyNevada.net/Race-The-Rails

7 — Lassen Gravel Adventure / Susanville / BizzRunningCompany.com

7 — Ride the Rim / Crater Lake National Park / 25 miles & 3,500 feet of climbing / RideTheRimOregon.com

13-15 — Mendo Hopper / Mendocino / GrasshopperAdventureSeries.com

13-15 — Silver State 508 / Reno, NV / the508.net

14 — Mammoth TUFF / Mammoth Lakes / Gravel event and adventure festival / Tuff.ventures

14 — Ride the Rim / Crater Lake National Park / 25 miles & 3,500 feet of climbing / RideTheRimOregon.com

14 — USAL Hopper / Lost Coast / Gravel event on remote and private land / 45 & 65 Miles / grasshopperadventureseries.com

15 — Oakland Grand Prix / Oakland / VeloPromo.com

19-22 — Mountains to Meadows / Quincy / End-of-the-season festival celebrating trails and community / QuincyMountainsToMeadows.com

21 — Tour of the Unknown Coast / Ferndale / TUCcycle.org

21 — Henleyville Road Race / Corning / VeloPromo.com

21 — Coyote Classic XC Series #1 / Boulder City, NV / BootlegCanyonRacing.com

21-28 — California Coast Classic / SF to LA / Events.Arthritis.org

22 — Eroica California / Cambria / Eroica.cc

24 — Mare Island PedalFest / Vallejo / MareIslandPedalFest.com

28 — Ashland Mountain Challenge / Ashland / CaliforniaEnduroSeries.com

28 — The Great Trail Race / Truckee, Tahoe City / GreatTrailRace.com

28 — Sacramento Century / Sacramento / SacramentoCentury. com

29 — Tour de Cure: Northern California / Rohnert Park / Tour. Diabetes.org

OCTOBER

5 — Heart of Gold Gravel / Nevada City / BikeMonkey.net

6 — Bike to the Future / San Jose / 39mi (with a 10 mile family friendly ride), 56mi, 100mi / BikeSiliconValley.org

12 — Asti Tour de Vine / Asti / AstiTourDeVine.com

12 — The 3F Century (Flat Fast Fun Bike Ride) / Colusa / 3FCentury.com

19 — Ride Santa Barbara 100 / Santa Barbara / RideSB100.com 19 — Tour de Lincoln / Lincoln / TourDeLincoln.org

19 — Coyote Classic XC Series #2 / Boulder City, NV / BootlegCanyonRacing.com

24-26 — Bovine Classic Gravel Ride / Atascadero & Paso Robles / TheBovineClassic.com 26 — Filthy 50+ / San Diego / QuicknDirtyMTB.com

RUNNING

SEPTEMBER

7 — Emerald Bay Trail Run / Lake Tahoe / BigBlueAdventure.com

7 — The Groves Trail Run 50K, Half / Loma Mar / PacificCoastTrailRuns.com

8 — Diablo Trail Run 4mi, 10mi, Half, Marathon, 50K, Kids Run / Clayton / CoastalTrailRuns.com

RACE & EVENT CALENDAR

15 — Buffalo Stampede / Sacramento / BuffaloStampedeRun.com

15 — XTERRA Lake Tahoe 5K and 10K / Incline Village, NV / TahoeTrailRunning.com

21 — Gold Rush Growler 10 Mile & 5K Trail Runs / Granite Beach / TotalBodyFitness.com

21 — Lederhosen 5K / Tahoe City / TahoeTrailRunning.com

22 — Mermaid Run San Francisco / Golden Gate Bridge / 5K, 10K, Sirena 10 Mile, Virtual / MermaidSeries.com

28 — Arnold Rim Trail Endurance Runs 37mi, 22mi, Half, 10K / Arnold / Envirosports.com

28 — The Great Trail Race / Truckee, Tahoe City / GreatTrailRace.com

28 — Big Sur Trail Marathon, Half Marathon & 5 Mile / Big Sur / Envirosports.com

OCTOBER

5 — Wild Wild West Marathon + 10mi, 50K, 50mi / Lone Pine / LonePineChamber.org

5-6 — Rock ‘n’ Roll San Jose / San Jose / RunRocknRoll.com/san-jose

5-6 — Urban Cow Half Marathon, 5K Run/Walk / Sacramento / UrbanCowHalf.com

12 — Ruth Anderson Memorial Endurance Run / San Francisco / CoastalTrailRuns.com

12 — Santa Cruz Westside Half Marathon / Santa Cruz / 10K & 5K / RunSantaCruz.com

12-13 — Scotts Flat Lake Fest / Nevada City / Saturday enduro and Sunday XC / Points apply to 2025 USAC race season / ybonc.org

12-13 — Bizz Johnson Marathon Events / Susanville / BizzRunningCompany.com

Napa Fall Wine Country Marathon, Half Marathon & 10K / Calistoga / Envirosports.com

NOVEMBER

2-3 — Rio Del Lago 100 Mile Endurance Run / Folsom / Rio100mile.com

10 — Monterey Bay Half Marathon / Monterey Bay / MontereyBayHalfMarathon.org 16 — Ripon Turkey Trail Run / Ripon / 5K /10K /13.1 Mile / RiponTurkeyTrailRun.com

SWIMMING

SEPTEMBER

22 — Alcatraz Swim with the Centurions / San Francisco / WaterWorldSwim.com

OCTOBER

SEPTEMBER

/

OCTOBER

/ MermaidSeries.com

Gear We Love

Goodies for your active lifestyle

1

RAB KINETIC 2.0 WATERPROOF JACKET

The Rab Kinetic 2.0 jacket is a great choice for outdoor enthusiasts seeking a blend of high-performance and comfort. Constructed with Rab’s innovative Proflex™ fabric, this jacket offers a remarkable balance between waterproofing and breathability. With a hydrostatic head rating of 20,000mm, it ensures reliable protection from heavy rain, while its 20,000 g/m²/24hr breathability rating helps manage sweat effectively during high-intensity activities. This makes the Kinetic 2.0 a versatile option for everything from intense hikes to multi-day treks. Available for both men and women, it caters to a wide range of adventurers.

The jacket features an athletic fit, which enhances mobility and comfort, particularly for climbers and hikers. Its lightweight, stretchy material not only provides a snug fit but also allows for a full range of motion, crucial for demanding outdoor adventures. The design includes a helmet-compatible hood, adjustable cuffs, and a hem drawcord to keep the elements at bay. Additionally, the jacket is equipped with practical ventilation options like pit zips and multiple pockets, including water-resistant hand pockets and an internal pocket for essentials.

Durability is a key strength of the Kinetic 2.0, with its Proflex™ fabric standing up well to abrasions and stretching under strain. The jacket is also highly packable, folding neatly into its own pocket for easy storage and transport. While it is priced higher than some alternatives, its superior performance and thoughtful design justify the investment for those who need a reliable, high-quality shell.

MSRP: $260.00 • rab.equipment

2 SWEET PROTECTION BUSHWHACKER 2VI ® MIPS HELMET

For mountain bikers seeking both high protection and comfort on rugged trails, the Sweet Protection Bushwhacker 2Vi® MIPS helmet is an outstanding choice. Equipped with MIPS (Multi-Directional Impact Protection System) technology, this helmet is designed to enhance safety by reducing rotational forces during impacts, providing an extra layer of protection.

The Bushwhacker 2Vi® combines an in-mold construction with a robust outer shell to offer excellent impact resistance while keeping the helmet lightweight.

Its design features extensive ventilation channels to ensure optimal airflow, which helps to keep you cool and dry even on demanding rides. The helmet’s fit can be easily adjusted with a secure retention system and plush padding, ensuring a snug and customized fit for various head shapes.

Available in multiple sizes and colors, the Bushwhacker 2Vi® caters to both men and women, making it a versatile option for all mountain bikers. The helmet’s blend of cutting-edge safety features, comfortable fit, and stylish design makes it a top choice for those serious about tackling challenging trails with confidence.

MSRP: $250.00 • sweetprotection.com

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PETZL VOLTA 9.2 MM ROPE

The Petzl Volta 9.2 mm rope is a top choice for climbers seeking a blend of lightweight performance and durability. Designed for both sport and trad climbing, this rope offers a superb balance of low weight and high strength, making it ideal for challenging routes and extended climbs. Engineered with a dynamic construction, the Volta 9.2 mm delivers outstanding shock absorption to help manage falls and maintain a high level of safety. Its slim diameter ensures easy handling and reduces bulk, yet it retains impressive strength, essential for technical climbs. The Volta 9.2 mm is treated with a Dry Cover finish that repels water and resists dirt, enhancing its performance and longevity even in harsh conditions. It is available in various lengths, catering to different climbing needs and preferences. Whether you’re tackling multi-pitch climbs or sport routes, this rope offers a reliable and high-performance option that combines lightness, strength, and resilience.

MSRP: $144.95 - $404.95 • petzl.com

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DANNER MOUNTAIN 600 EVO BOOTS

These boots are a standout choice for hikers seeking a fusion of rugged durability and modern comfort. Crafted with a highquality leather upper and a waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX lining, these boots are designed to handle diverse terrain and weather conditions while keeping your feet dry and comfortable.

Featuring a Vibram® Fuga outsole, the Mountain 600 Evo delivers exceptional traction and stability on both rocky trails and uneven surfaces. The boot’s cushioned

midsole and ergonomic design offer all-day comfort and support, reducing foot fatigue on long hikes. Additionally, the lace-totoe design allows for a customizable fit, ensuring a secure and supportive feel.

Whether you’re navigating challenging trails or enjoying a leisurely hike, these boots provide the performance and comfort you need to make every step count.

MSRP: $250.00 • danner.com

5 J.R. LIGGETT’S MINI SHAMPOO BARS

When adventure calls, packing light doesn’t mean sacrificing personal care. The J.R. Liggett’s Mini Shampoo Bar is the perfect travel companion for backpackers and travelers who prioritize convenience and efficiency. Weighing just 0.65 oz, this compact, eco-friendly bar offers powerful performance with its all-natural ingredients, keeping your hair clean and fresh wherever you go.

Sized to fit in your pocket or backpack, the Mini Shampoo Bar is a game-changer for minimizing your travel footprint. It’s crafted with nourishing oils and natural extracts that clean and soften your hair without bulky bottles. Its concentrated formula means a little goes a long way, providing excellent lather and cleansing.

With zero-waste packaging and a longlasting formula, the Mini Shampoo Bar supports a greener planet and performs reliably in any environment. Ideal for trekkers, travelers, and minimalists, this bar ensures you stay refreshed and ready for whatever comes next.

MSRP: $2.29 • jrliggett.com

SEASONAL HUES AND TRAILS TO CHOOSE

Autumn is the perfect time for adventure at Yosemite Mariposa County. Enjoy cooler temps, thinner crowds and affordable accommodations while you experience the magic of this place in fall time, and for all time.

Yosemite Resorts

Create Memories in Nature.

Surround yourself with the beauty of Yosemite National Park when you stay at Yosemite Resorts. Located just minutes from the park entrance, you’ll create memories that will last a lifetime with those you care about most.

YosemiteResorts.com (888) 742-4371

Yours to Explore

Discover Yosemite this fall. As autumn approaches, exciting Sierra adventures like climbing, hiking, and biking await just a short drive away. Tenaya at Yosemite gives you the perfect accommodations to experience the best of Yosemite – and the best vacation is always the next one. Ready to go?

VisitTenaya.com (888)-514-2167

Visit Yosemite.com

The ultimate resource for planning your adventure to Yosemite National Park. Vehicle reservations required only on weekends through October 27.

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