ON THE TABLE
Noodles for the New Year START YOUR CELEBRATION WITH A BIG SLURP
BY LAURA LAVENDER PHOTOS BY STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE STUDIOS
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id you know that in China noodles are a symbol of long life and prosperity? As a bonafide “Noodle-aholic,” I was pleased to learn this symbolism. What a lovely idea. A long, delicious unbroken noodle, that everyone likes to eat, represents a long and happy life. As a result of this happy denotation, prosperous pasta dishes are
found at celebrations such as birthdays, new baby blessings, weddings, and are often a traditional dish served at Chinese New Year. When talking longevity noodles, the idea for consumption is that they should never be cut or even bitten, lest your risk cutting off the prosperity. So, it’s best just to slurp–it’s considered good manners with the sound effects the
best evidence that you are enjoying your meal. While any noodle dish is an auspicious meal, there is a particular noodle especially associated with long life and prosperity in China. This noodle is known by many names including Yi mein, e-fu, and longlife noodles. These noodles are wheatbased and are made as long as possible! Additionally, the noodles have what is called an “alkalizing agent” added to the dough, often lye water, soda water or baking soda, which makes the noodles “springy.” This type of noodle, due to the deep-frying, is not typically made at home and comes to life after they have had a good soak in boiling water. Yi mein noodles are usually served at the end of celebratory banquets in China. These banquets often have as many as 10 courses so it seems most guests take as big a slurp as they can of the long-life noodles, but most of the noodles end up coming home in a take-out box for the next day. The longevity noodles are often served with mushrooms, which naturally grow very quickly and therefore symbolize an increase in abundance. A green herb, or vegetable, such as chives, is added as green represents wealth. Despite the notoriety of the longevity noodle Anna Chow, who owned and operated the Moonlight Restaurant with her late husband in Antigonish for 32 years, she says she never makes the long life noodle herself but she has enjoyed them at many Chinese celebrations. She is, however, quick to share her love of other noodles dishes that have become favourites and the center of many of the Chow family
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ah! Winter 2021–22
At Home on the North Shore
