Food to Shawarma your Heart

Food toshawarma your heart A lesson on Syrian cooking with messages of love and gratitude in every spoonful 

BY CRYSTAL MURRAY

PHOTOS BY STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE STUDIOS

Ghada, Rania and Lema settle in around the kitchen island in Cathy Hanley’s waterfront home outside of Pictou to reveal the beauty that accompanies the legacy of Syrian cooking. The sun is brilliant and it bathes the kitchen with a welcoming light. Lema is still cold and keeps her heavy fur trimmed jacket on as they busy themselves with little details before they present the food they have prepped for a sampling of Syrian cuisine.

Their hands work deftly around the plates of Kibbe, Tabbouleh, Shawarma and Syrian sweets as they garnish and arrange to their liking. There is no hesitation in what they are doing. Geography and war have not altered the way they do things. Their movements are no doubt the same as the women before them, who were taught by the women before them. There is a joy in their preparations that is as fragrant and colourful as the food they will share. It is a demonstration of generosity and thankfulness that is at the essence of much of their culture. It’s a teaching moment for all of us in the room that morning as we learn a little more about these new people in our community. It is just over a year since three families displaced from their homes in Syria found their way to a new life in Pictou County. Rania Almethyb and Ghada Almetheb spell their last names a little differently but are related through marriage and lived in the Daraa province in Southwest Syria. Their families were sponsored by the Safe Harbour group and live in New Glasgow. Lema Casim and her family left their home in the Syrian capital of Damascus. The CAIRN group has nurtured their resettlement in the town of Pictou. It has been a year of gentle assimilation but with an expediency that accompanies an awareness of knowing that the sponsorship will not last forever. The trio of women are hoping that their skills in the kitchen will create an opportunity for employment and a way to give back to the communities that have given so much to them. The feelings of loyalty to their sponsorship groups and their new neighbourhoods runs deep. A friendly competition exists between the women and they share a laugh and quick debate on who landed in the best town. They know that other refugee families like the Hadhad’s in Antigonish have had a quick taste of success. Lema already has a small business and has completed her food safety handling course. She prepares her food at the Stone Soup Cafe and with the help of volunteer Giselle Mitchell, she brings her Syrian Delights to the New Glasgow Market. Ghada and Rania have aspirations that their small catering business will evolve into something bigger. They are also being certified in the standards of food handling and safety working on a business plan. With the help of the interpreter, Ilhem Dedkhani, who is on hand to help translate for the cooking demonstration, Rania tells us that her dream is to one day own a family business and be busy cooking ever day.

May your table always be plentiful – Sifrah Daimeh

The Syrian women cook with purpose. It is part of their daily life and they effuse domestic hospitality. Food is one of the most artful expressions of their culture

8000 kms separate Rania, Ghada and Lema from their kitchens in Syria but they have a plan to share all that they know about their food culture with the communities that have helped them start a new life.

and a symbol of gratitude for what they say God has given them. They never cook just to have enough, there is always more and they are always ready to welcome friends and family. Despite the abundance of food they are never wasteful. “There is an Arabic saying that you should never waste water even if you are standing next to a running stream,” says Ilhem. The custom of sharing goes back to the earliest days of their culture, a story that is told in different ways but always with the same testament and is what has cultivated the warmth and love that is at the heart of their cooking. Maintaining a deep understanding of their unique customs and beliefs is paramount for most Syrian families. Staying true to Muslim beliefs, the religion of Islam and the principals of Halal are not even questioned by anyone. When a Muslim serves you, you know that you are eating food that has been defined Halal or foods that are lawful or permitted under the Islamic teachings. Vegetarian and plant based foods are almost all considered Halal as are meats like lamb beef and chicken as long as they are slaughtered according to Islamic dietary laws. Haram foods are foods that are not permitted and include but are not limited to pork, alcohol and vanilla. Increased awareness of the culturally accepted foods is making it easier for new immigrant families to not only feed their families but also extend in their business plans. As with any specialty food, procurement can be expensive. For some ingredients that Ghada, Rania and Lema need, as with other people practicing Islam in our rural communities, a trip to the city is often necessary to find what they need.

You eat with your eyes before your mouth

The plates of food are almost finished and ready to be photographed. The presentation of the food is as important as the food itself. Many foods are plated in a spiral pattern into the centre of the dish and the food is often higher at the outer edges. The time that goes in to the presentation is another nod towards hospitality. “You eat with your eyes before your mouth,” adds Ilhmen, as the women start to slow after the flurry of prep work. Ruby red seeds from a pomegranate add additional colour to the Tabbouleh made from parsley and bulgar, the egg shaped Kibbe warm with gold hues nest on a plate next to the Chicken Shawarma and Safia, a flatbread spread with a savoury paste of tomato and onion. Another kaleidoscope of a salad with beet dyed turnips burst with colour and steam rises from the rice and almond dish that is one of Lema’s favourites to prepare. Once the photos are taken the real fun begins. Cathy sets the table in her dining room. A few other women who accompanied the special guests for the day help bring the dishes from the kitchen and sit down with their new friends. Cathy Hanley couldn’t look any happier as she wraps her arms around Ghada, Rania and Lema. She has become close to the women helping them with English lessons since their arrival last winter. “I have wanted to have these women to my house for a long time. I am so happy that it happened today, and look we have enough food to have a party. I think I should call some neighbours!” Sweet and spicy aromas are released in the air already filled with the chatter of women. Their words in English and Arabic mingle with each other. It’s a cooking demonstration that has turned into a celebration. Fadal’u! Welcome.

In your discovery of Syrian food you gain insight into the world of Arabic cuisine. From country to country there is a kinship among the recipes. There are simple variances in spice, methods and spelling of the food names but the charm, characteristics and rituals of preparation have been unwavering for centuries. Ghada, Rania and Lema carry their index of recipes in their heads. Ah! found a few recipes that use the same ingredients and are approved by our new neighbourhood cooks! Most of our North American recipes are prepared for serving for four to six people. Get ready to cook for a crowd.

Photos: Steve Smith, VisionFire Studios

kibbe

24 SERVINGS

This is a staple in Syrian food and almost always on the table at some point of the day. The large serving size saves time for the cook who would otherwise be making Kibbe almost every day.

KIBBE DOUGH INGREDIENTS 500 g beef, finely ground 1 ½ cups fine bulgur 1 onion, finely chopped ¼ tsp allspice ½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp salt 5 basil leaves

STUFFING INGREDIENTS 250 g beef, finely ground 2 onions, finely chopped 1 tsp pomegranate syrup, if available ¼ cup raw pine nuts 1 tsp salt ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp pepper 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 6 cups vegetable oil for frying INSTRUCTIONS 15 mins. 1. To prepare the stuffing: fry the chopped onions until tender. Add the rest of the stuffing ingredients and cook until meat is brown. Remove from heat and set aside. 2. Wash the bulgur in warm water.

Remove and drain in a strainer.

Squeeze out as much water as possible. 3. To prepare the kibbe dough: In a food processor, grind all the kibbe dough ingredients together until you get a dough-like consistency. You can add a dash of water if the dough gets too sticky. In bowl, knead the dough for a few seconds. 4. Place the kibbe on a plate, cover it with a plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator for at least 30 min. 5.

6.

7. Form kibbe balls the size of a golf ball. Hold the meat ball in one hand; make a hole in it with the index of your other hand. Widen the hole by turning the kibbe ball and pressing its inside walls gently against your palm. Try to get a thin shell, making sure it is uniformly thick. It is important to moisturize your hands in cold water as you work in order to give a smooth finish to the kibbe. Fill the hole with 2 teaspoons of stuffing and close it, forming an oval shape with a pointed end. Set aside on a tray. In a deep frying pan, heat the 6 cups of vegetable oil and deep-fry the kibbe in batches until brown. Serve hot or at room temperature.

tabbouleh

10 to 12 SERVINGS

A salad made from parsley, tomatoes, onion, bulgur and seasoned with lemon, salt, and olive oil. There are variations and we like this one that includes pomegranate.

INGREDIENTS 1 cup bulgar wheat 1 ½ cups boiling water 2 cups chopped parsley 1 ½ cup fresh mint chopped 2 pomegranates, seeded 4 shallots, trimmed and thinly sliced 4 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

INSTRUCTIONS Place bulgar in a large heat-proof bowl and add boiling water. Soak for 10 minutes and then drain. The bulgar or wheat berries should be soft for the salad. If they are still hard after 10 minutes, let them soak a little longer. Add chopped ingredients, seeds, lemon juice and olive oil to the drained bulgar and toss all ingredients. Season with salt and pepper. Keep in the fridge until serving.

Mamul and Barazek cookies are favorite after-dinner treats.

barazek cookies

Sesame on one side and pistachio on the other this sophisticated cookie is easy to make and so pretty too!

INGREDIENTS ½ cup unsalted butter (room temp.) ½ powdered sugar ½ tsp baking powder 1 egg 1 ½ cup white flour 1 tsp vinegar pinch salt dash vanilla powder (any kind) 1 cup sesame seeds, roasted 1 cup unsalted pistachios, coarsely chopped INSTRUCTIONS 1. Cream the butter until light and fluffy, then add the sugar and mix well. 2. Mix in the egg, vanilla and vinegar until everything is well incorporated. 3. Finally, add the flour and baking powder along with a dash of salt, let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. 4. Take a piece of the dough as big or as small as you want your cookies to be. 5.

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8. Flatten the dough into a disc about ¼-inch thick. The thinner the cookie is, the more crunchy it will be. Press in a bowl of roasted sesame seeds to coat one side. Press the other side in the pistachio pieces. Bake at 350°F for about 20 minutes until bottoms start to brown.

Cathy Hanley of Braeshore welcomes Rania, Ghada and Lema to her kitchen for the Syrian cooking lesson. Cathy, a volunteer with the Safe Harbour refugee resettlement group, became friends with the three women while teaching their english classes after their settlement in Pictou and New Glasgow last year.

Syrian Food is thought to be one of the oldest and most traditional cuisines on the planet. It also has a pretty good track record for being a healthy diet. There is very little processed food in the Syrian diet, especially if the food is Halal. Many of the dishes are vegetarian or plant based. However, there are recipes that call for deep-frying. Like any healthy diet, moderation with some of the less healthful ingredients or cooking methods is the key. 

kunafa

There are variations to this dessert through the Middle East. It can be made with a variety of cheese including mozzarella and ricotta however, to keep the dessert Hallal, our bakers used hallumi cheese. The hallumi cheese and the Kunafa pastry can be purchased at a specialty grocery story featuring Middle Eastern and Greek foods. Some people will compare the taste and texture of Kunafa to a cheese danish. There is a balance of sweet and tartness from the cheese that makes this a favourite dessert for every day and times of celebration.

INGREDIENTS 1 1-kg bag kunafa pastry ½ lb butter 1 ½ cups granulated sugar 1 cup plain water 2 Tbsp lemon juice rose water ¼ cup pistachios 1 lb soft cheese INSTRUCTIONS 1. Start by mixing the sugar, plain water and lemon juice. Bring the mixture to a boil, let simmer to a syrup-like consistency. 2. Remove from heat and add rose water. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°F 4. In a large bowl, gently loosen kunafa dough, mix it well with butter. Place half of the mixture in a 9-inch round pan or a 9x13 pan, lightly press it down. 5. Spread the cheese in an even layer, cover it with the remaining kunafa dough and bake it until it is golden brown 30 to 45 minutes. 6. Pour the syrup on the kunafa and decorate it with pistachios.