Fall/Winter 2022 GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COASTGood Repaying kindness with kindness Meet the Almethyb family of Maple Cedar Syrian Kitchen "Like kissing the sea on the lips" Plant-basedeating Downsizing our consumptionmeat Atlantic Canadians love our local oysters Compliments of
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Available at PumpkinComplimentsPie(900g) NorthernComplimentsSpy Apple (1 Kg) RhubarbComplimentsStrawberry (1 Kg) Indulge in a heat-and-enjoyready-made,Compliments pie! Made with fresh Northern spy apples and a melt-inyour-mouth pastry. Aromatic filling with a hint of cinnamon –a comforting classic! Northern Spy Apple Pie Made with real pumpkin and no artificial flavours. Nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and clove make this special. PumpkinPie The tartness of rhubarb with the sweetness of strawberries in every bite. No artificial flavours makes for the perfect indulgence. andStrawberryRhubarb Save your fork, there’s pie!
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SMITH/VISIONFIRESTEVE
Plant-based eating
“Like kissing the sea on the lips”
Contents
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Good food with a social conscience
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Repaying kindness with kindness (and food!)
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Some delightful cocktails from Moonshine Creek by Johanne and Alain Bossé
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On our cover: Atlantic Canadian oysters make a festive treat. Photo by Steve Smith/ VisionFire.
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Atlantic Canadians have a love affair with oysters by Johanne and Alain Bossé
Rania and Basem Almethyb create friendships from their restaurant in New Glasgow by Jodi DeLong
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MURRAY/VISIONFIREBRUCESMITH/VISIONFIRESTEVESMITH/VISIONFIRESTEVE
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Contents copyright 2022/2023. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent of the publisher. PRINTED IN CANADA.
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Made with Local snack foods support local producers, partners by Alain Bossé
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Good Taste is a special insert in Saltscapes magazine, published by Metro Guide Publishing, 2882 Gottingen Street, Halifax, NS B3K 3E2. Tel: 902- 464-7258, Sales Toll Free: 1-877-311-5877
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Raise a glass…or a mug!
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Enjoying the simple things
Fall/Winter 2022 GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COASTG d Repaying kindness with kindness Meet the Almethyb family of Maple Cedar Syrian Kitchen "Like kissing the sea on the lips" Plant-basedeating Downsizing our consumptionmeat Atlantic Canadians love our local oysters
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Downsizing (not eliminating) your animal protein intake by Maureen Tilley, PDt.
Chef Jason Lynch always looking for his next adventure by Johanne and Alain Bossé
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Not surprising, plant-based meals focus heavily on fruits and vegetables. They provide fibre, carbohydrates, vitamin and minerals and diseasefighting phytonutrients and antioxidants. A bonus of adding more beans, lentils and soy to your diet is that they can be considered both a protein and vegetable.
As for dairy products, if you’re eliminating or minimizing cow’s milk, a plant-based almond, oat, cashew or soymilk can make a good alternative. They typically provide comparable calcium and vitamin D and a source of vitamin B12. But keep in mind, only soymilk provides a similar amount of protein.
Plant-based eating
Ideally, a balanced meal aims for 25 per cent whole grains, 25 per cent protein and 50 per cent fruit and vegetables, and of course it’s important to choose variety within each group. Canada’s food guide plate model emphasizes plant-based choices, and provides the ideal visual balance.
UNSPLASH/GREENANDGREAT GT 6
he term “plant-based eating” has gained popularity, but it can be a confusing phrase for those looking to make a dietary change. Unlike the typical Western diet, a plant-based pattern is predominantly unprocessed (often referred to as “whole”) plant sources like fruit, vegetables, whole grains, nuts, seeds, healthy oils, beans, lentils and soy. While it may be misinterpreted to be exclusively vegan and vegetarian, there’s a range of what is considered a plantbased eating pattern. This can include small portions of selected or any animal products such as dairy, eggs, poultry, fish, and meat. The key is that most of the foods consumed are plant-based. A popular plant-based pattern includes the Mediterranean diet, which focuses on poultry, eggs, fish, cheese, and yogurt a few times a week, with meats and sweets less often. Regardless of your current eating pattern, gradually shifting to incorporate all or some components of plant-based eating can benefit your health, wallet, and the environment. Let’s further clarify what a plant-based pattern entails, the benefits, and the how to.
By Maureen Tilley, PDt.
Animal protein should be replaced with a plant protein such as nuts, seeds, beans and lentils, and soy products. These options can provide protein, iron, vitamins, and minerals. Depending on the amount of animal products you choose to incorporate, aim for lower fat options more often like low fat dairy, skinless chicken, fish, and seafood.
Incorporate whole grains, including whole grain pasta, breads, brown and wild rice, oats, barley, quinoa. They are rich in fibre, vitamins and minerals. While white rice, bread and pasta are plant-based, they are refined, meaning a lot of the nutrients have been stripped away.
and variety are important to ensure you’re getting proper nutrition.
Downsizing (not eliminating) your animal protein intake
Building your plate
NUTRITION
Eating plant-based meals can be great for you and for your grocery budget, too.
A dietary change is not about simply removing the meat from your plate and adding more broccoli and rice. Balance
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BAITINGERKAROLINBYBAKD&RAW GT 7GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST
Start with traditional bean and lentil dishes: chickpea curry, lentil dahl, lentils and rice, bean soups, bean salad, chili, add black beans to Mexican dishes such as tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, and quesadillas.
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•Beans and lentils (chickpeas, kidney beans, black beans, white beans: Prepare from dried or buy canned (no-added salt) options for convenience. There’s an abundance of tasty ideas and recipes online, or try replacing some/all the meat in your usual dishes.
If you’re considering significantly decreasing or eliminating animal products, it requires closer attention and organization to avoid deficiencies.
with small changes and assess as you go. Incorporating more plant-based protein is often where people get stuck, as it can feel foreign and intimidating. Changing the balance on your plate is a straightforward concept, although implementing may require some tips. Let’s cover both to help you get started.
What’s in it for you?
Eating more plant-based and fewer animal products is better for the environment, requiring far less resources like energy, water and land. The food industry as a whole contributes to 34 per cent of all human-produced greenhouse gas emissions. Meat and dairy are at the top of the list, contributing 57 per cent of food emission, compared to 29 per cent of emissions from all plant products.
Venture out to broaden your bean use. Try chickpea or black bean burgers. Throw black beans on a pizza. Make a spaghetti sauce, meatloaf, or sloppy joes with lentils. Make a white bean peanut stew. Toss chickpeas over a green salad, they’re especially yummy if seasoned and crisped up in the oven (many store-bought roasted chickpeas make a good choice). Hummus is a great dip but also use as a spread (and protein) on a sandwich, wrap or bagel. You can bake with beans and lentils too (it’s VERY important to follow a recipe) in muffins, breakfast bars, brownies, cakes.
NUTRITION
KOLESNIKOVSERGBIGSTOCK/
The rise in food cost is concerning and most of us are looking for strategies to cut cost. Animal products tends to be some of the more expensive items on the list. Replacing them with plantbased proteins can help you save on your grocery budget. Fruit and vegetables can be pricey as well. As we have discussed previously, frozen and canned options are also packed with good nutrition.
The basic ingredients
Tofu comes in various textures: firm or extra-firm are best for many dishes.
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Not all plant-based foods are considered healthy. Many companies have tapped into the plant-based trend with burgers, deli meats, nuggets. Unfortunately, many highly processed foods, plant-based or not, lack good nutrition and can contain a lot of sodium and saturated fat. The same goes for products made with whole grains. You’ll find plenty of whole-grain, high-sugar, high-fat foods products, including cereals, snack foods, ready-to-eat meals from grocery stores, among others. Always check labels. Occasional intake of processed foods is fine, but the more unprocessed foods you choose, the better.
Particular nutrients of attention include vitamin B12, omega-3, and iron. A dietitian can help ensure you are meeting your needs.
Anything worth having is worth working for and there’s evidence of that when it comes to plant-based eating and your health. These benefits are thought to come from the nutrient-dense foods, as well as decreased consumption of higher
•Tofu: is made from the curd of soymilk, formed into a white spongelike brick. Many people turn their noses up at tofu, perhaps due to its appearance, a previous bad experience or being unsure of how to prepare it. Tofu comes in various textures from soft
How-to plant-based eating Making changes to your eating can feel overwhelming, but there’s no need to do an instant overhaul. Start
fat animal products and processed foods. Research shows a plant-based eating pattern can reduce and manage many chronic diseases including heart disease, diabetes, blood pressure, certain cancers, Alzheimer’s disease, and also supports a healthy immune system.
Cooking method is an important step too. On a lightly oiled pan, bake it, grill it or fry until it’s browned on all sides and some of the moisture is evaporated. If you have an air fryer, this is a super-easy way to brown and cook tofu.
NUTRITION
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Compared to tofu, it has a bit more of a nutty flavour and a firmer texture but can be prepared and consumed in a similar way.
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Replace some of the meat in your dish with beans; such as beans to a burger, lentils to a beef stew, chickpeas to a chicken salad plate. This can make it easier to slowly phase out meat.
GT 8
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Add nuts/seeds and fruit to whole grain cereal. Cook a chopped apple with your oatmeal.
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• Tempeh is a fermented soybean pressed together to form a block.
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Designate one or two days a week for meatless meals. Start adding a familiar dish to the rotation like bean chili.
Small steps work Assess your meal balance. How do your meals measure up to the Canada’s Food
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• Edamame beans are popular in Japanese restaurants. They look like a green bean, with a mild buttery taste. The shell is not edible but run your teeth along the pod to remove the bean. You can purchase in pod or just as beans from the frozen food section, and use in a salad, blended into a dip, or added like any other vegetable in a dish.
• Texturized Vegetable Protein (TVP): This is a dehydrated soy alternative to ground meat. It has long shelf life and is simple to prepare. Once rehydrated, (by adding boiling water and letting stand for five minutes) it has the same appearance and texture as ground meat. It has a bland flavour on its own but is perfect in chili, spaghetti sauce, lasagna, or tacos.
Once it’s prepared, eat it on its own, add to a salad, a curry, sandwich, stirfry, pad Thai, or in a Buddha bowl. Tofu can also be used as a scrambled-egg alternative. Simply crumble it up, add turmeric (for yellow colour), pepper and salt (optional) and fry in a pan. You can also add veggies and top it with salsa.
Guide plate model? Are there some small changes you can make like adding a fruit at breakfast, or replacing part of your meat portion with an extra scoop of veggies? Remember, even tipping the balance to less meat is beneficial.
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Add protein at snack time, for example, peanut butter and apple slices; a handful of nuts and some whole-grain crackers.
Replace white rice with brown or wild. Enjoy whole-wheat pasta rather than white pasta. Switch up typical grains for buckwheat or quinoa (which also provides protein).
to extra firm. The firm and extra-firm tend to be the best for cooking. Plain tofu tastes bland, but luckily it takes on the flavour of a marinade, seasoning or added to a flavourful sauce-based dish. Marinade options are endless but for a simple and tasty one, mix soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar and a little honey. Make sure to cube/slice it for maximum flavour absorption.
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Chef Jason Lynch is always looking for the next challenge
After leaving Nova Scotia to obtain his culinary degree at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute in Ottawa, he returned to Nova Scotia to work for Acton’s in Wolfville under chef Werner Bassen; who, according to Jason, was the best mentor a young chef could ask for. Chef Werner’s passion, drive and skill set were infectious. When Acton’s sold, Jason ventured down a different path and took on a consulting job for the owners of Neddies Harbour Inn in Norris Point, NL to help them build and develop a food program. While he ended up as chef at Le Caveau at Grand-Pré Winery a few years later, Norris Point has become his second home. “There is something about the west coast of Newfoundland that I can’t go without. The people and the place keep me Atlanticconnected.”Canada and especially
Newfoundland have always had a major influence on Jason’s cooking. “The environment allows for such great foraging and direct relationships with our farmers and fisherman,” he says. “I have travelled a lot in my career, but nothing is like Nova Scotia and Newfoundland—they are part of me and who I am as a chef.”
Jason’s second restaurant is Le Caveau, a 50-seat restaurant located at Grand-Pré Winery in the Annapolis Valley of Nova Scotia. Some years back, Le Caveau was named one of the world’s
T
food came from and how it was grown.”
KILTED CHEF AND FRIENDS
SUBMITTED SUBMITTED GT 9GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST
Enjoying the simple things
He says, “I have always had love for food. Both my mother and grandmother were great cooks, and growing up on a farm, I always wanted to know where my
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He continues, “Neddies Harbour Inn consists of 15 rooms and a 50-seat restaurant called the Black Spruce where we focus on sustainable food and food practices as much as we can. We have our own gardens, root cellar and great relationships with local farmers and fishermen.”
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Chef Jason Lynch and Neddies Harbour Inn, Norris Point, NL.
his issue we are sitting down with my friend and fellow chef, Jason Lynch. Full disclosure: I have spoken to Jason many times about his connection to Norris Point, a picturesque village located within Gros Mourne National Park in Newfoundland and Labrador, and Jason speaks with such passion that I had always assumed that he was born and raised there. I’m finding out along with all of you that he was, in fact, born in Ontario and moved to Nova Scotia as a child. Jason grew up in rural Nova Scotia on a poultry farm that instilled in him a strong connection to farming and the local farming community. Because of that, Jason knew early on that his life’s work would involve becoming a chef.
By Johanne and Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
Time: 1 hour Serves: 4
Leek & Blue Cheese Soup Hazelnutwith
7 oz (200 g) Stilton/blue cheese
½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream
Divide up blue cheese between four bowls and ladle soup over the cheese, garnish with hazelnuts and serve.
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KILTED CHEF AND FRIENDS
Add stock but do not cover, bring to boil and simmer for 10-15 min until the leeks are soft. Remove bay Addleaves.the cream and puree with a hand blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
GT 10
2 bay leaves
“I most enjoy cooking with family and friends— food is about sharing and community”
2 medium sized leeks, sliced and washed; make sure to use the green part as well
Heat medium size pot and add oil and butter to melt. Add your garlic and shallot, until they take on a light goldenAddcolor.leeks, flour and bay leaves, then cook for 5 minutes on a medium-low heat.
2 tbsp (30 mL) flour
2 shallots, diced
2 cloves garlic, diced
4 tbsp (60 mL) crushed hazelnuts
1 tbsp (15 mL) butter
4 cups (1 L) chicken stock/broth
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
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SUBMITTED
$15,616* VALUE UP TO * Terms and conditions apply. Visit
MacArthur Appliances Inc 96 Mount Edward Rd. Charlottetown, PEI (902) macarthur@macarthurapp.pe.ca368-2200CreativeApplianceGallery51RaddallAve.,unit14DartmouthNS(902)481-3313info@creativeappliance.ca
The Black Spruce restaurant at Neddies Harbour Inn.
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I feel the same way, Chef!
GT 11GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST
Enjoy the luxury of Thermador’s exceptional design, but with the value of our ONE-TWO-FREE® program. Purchase an eligible Thermador® cooking package and you’ll receive an Emerald dishwasher absolutely free. Or purchase a complete qualifying kitchen suite and choose from a selection of free bonus gifts. You can also add a built-in coffee machine for just $3000
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or authorized dealers for full details. Offers valid on purchases made
Feron Kitchen Inc 110 Chain Lake Dr., Unit 31 Halifax, NS (902) 450-5144 • dferon@feronkitchens.com1-800-565-4044
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Davidson Food Equipment 1245 Hanwell Rd. Fredericton, NB (506) ross@davidsonfoodequipment.com450-4994
If all of that wasn’t enough, Jason’s newest venture is Cumin Kitchen and Drink, located in New Minas, just down the road from Le Caveau. Cumin Kitchen is a 40-seat casual restaurant. “We really wanted to have a very approachable and affordable restaurant that has a strong focus on community-based agriculture. It is open early in the morning for coffee and baked goods and runs through to earlyJason’sevening.”favourite foods to prepare are the simple things: wild mushrooms, fish, pasta and charcuterie. “I’m at a point where I don’t make anything I don’t like anymore. Making things you don’t like as a chef will never reflect well on your menu. I have never seen issues in my career as challenges; always more as opportunities. I most enjoy cooking with family and friends—food is about sharing and community. We try to bring this feeling to all our restaurants.
Dave’s Appliance 1 Sandy Point Rd. Saint John, NB (506) sales@davesappliance.ca634-1888
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“I have known Alain for many years. I think my fondest memory, honestly, is bumping into him at the Cat Stop [Pub n Grub] in Norris Point; neither of us were aware that the other was there. Just having that time to enjoy the music and share a beverage in a place I know we both“Welove.share so many of the same passions for the industry and the people in the industry that make it great, that I know our friendship will last a lifetime.”
Wildwood Cabinets 400 Collishaw St. Moncton, NB (506) info@wildwoodindustries.com858-9219 Thermador.ca between August 1, 2022 to December 31, 2022.
top 20 winery restaurants. Here, the focus is much the same: working to build strong relationships with the local farming communities around the county.
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IF ‘WARM BUNS’ ARE ON YOUR WINTER BUCKET LIST, YOU’RE IN LUCK.
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LOBSTERCRAWL.CASCAN AND MAKE A PLAN! @novascotialobstercrawl Other bucket lists ‘pail’ by comparison! Retirement Living that Feels Like Home Enrich your retirement years with good friends and easy access to everything you're used to. Discover GEM Retirement Living, upscale independent and assisted living for those who wish to maintain their active lifestyle without the worries that come with owning a home. Book your tour today! 1-800-820-7404 | gemretirementliving.com Melville Heights (902)Halifax477-3313 Centennial Villa (902)Amherst667-5330 Yarmouth Heights (902)Yarmouth881-5511 GT 12
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Don’t just get through winter... get into it! nova Scotia’s south shore is crawling with things to do – all-year round – and things really heat up for February’s lobster crawl!! local shops, cafés, lodging, and attractions embrace our annual festival - from Lucy the lobster predicting the outcome of winter –to our popular (and delicious) lobster roll off. we invite you to crawl along! Just Add ‘eat my weight in lobster’ to your bucket list!
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1.5 tbsp (22 mL) coriander
.25 tbsp (4 mL) nutmeg
GT 13GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST
½ cup (125 mL) chicken stock
1 med red pepper, med sliced
KILTED CHEF AND FRIENDS
.25 tbsp (4 mL) cinnamon
In a small bowl incorporate all the spices and blend well. Use 1 tbsp per person.
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.25 tbsp (4 mL) allspice
.25 tbsp (4 mL) cloves
ButteredMarrakechLamb
1.5 tbsp (22 mL) paprika
.75 tbsp (12 mL) chili
Buttered Lamb Marrakech local lamb sliced thinly Allow 4-5 ounces per person (we use lamb from D & D Farms)
½ cup (125 mL) cooked basmati rice or couscous per person
Plain Greek yogurt for garnish
3 tbsp (45 mL) turmeric
Cook the rice or couscous and set aside. Pre heat oven to 350°F/178°C.Inalargepan heat the butter, add the lamb and spices and sauté for three mins. Add dates, peppers and cashews. Deglaze pan with stock and finish cooking in oven for about 10 minutes. Divide rice or couscous between 4 large bowls and spoons lamb mixture over top. Garnish with yogurt and sliced green onion.
.75 tbsp (12 mL) thyme
1 green pepper, sliced 4 tbsp (60 mL) spice mixture
For the Marrakech spice mixture
4 tbsp (60 mL) salted butter
½ cup (125 mL) sliced dates ½ cup (125 mL) toastedcashewsplain
Serves: 4
.75 tbsp (12 mL) tarragon
1 bunch of sliced green onion
1.5 tbsp (22 mL) cumin
.25 tbsp (4 mL) fenugreek
Some delightful cocktails from Moonshine Creek
By Johanne and Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
W
The five offerings we received are just a small sampling of products created by brothers Jeremiah and Joshua Clarke of Moonshine Creek, a micro-distillery located in Watervale, New Brunswick, not far from Hartland and its famous covered bridge.
e could hardly wait, when we opened the box. There were five bottles enticingly waiting to sampled; they reminded me of the vintage liquor bottles that we had found hidden in the rafters of our century-old barn; each of these bottles is adorned with vintage looking labels, and each is truly a work of art....But it was what was inside that was going to be the real treat!
GT 14
Raise a glass…or a mug!
Initially specializing in moonshine and chocolate liqueurs, they have now branched out into barrel-aged spirits, whisky, rum and brandy.
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I had heard a lot of talk about the company’s innovative and imaginative products, the Chicken Bone liqueur in particular. For those who aren’t aware of so-called chicken bones, read on. Many of us eagerly wait for the Christmas season to begin, because we know that’s when these delicious candies, first made by Ganong Brothers of St. Stephen, NB, will make an appearance on store shelves around the region. If you’re not familiar with the flavour of chicken bone candy, it is a delightful combination of smooth rich chocolate and cinnamon. The Clarks’ chicken bone liqueur was first debuted
in 2018 in limited quantities. It was such a huge success that it was re-released in 2019, and now it’s a staple in their inventory. During those first couple of years, the brothers donated $25,000 from sales to food banks in all four of the Atlantic Canadian provinces, firmly establishing themselves as community stewards and supporters.
This family-owned and operated business opened in August of 2018.
The other product that I was very keen to try is the newly-named Mugshot; formerly known as Double Double. You don’t have to travel too far outside of Canada for that particular phrase to lose meaning; however, ask anyone in Atlantic Canada for one and you will soon have a piping-hot cup of coffee with two sugar and two cream in your hand. This deep and dark liqueur is made of premium
DOWNHOME RECIPES
GRANDPREWINES.COM
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Andseason.finallyis another favourite: Moonshine Creek’s Apple Crumble. As
GT 15
Another very popular product is the result of collaboration between Moonshine Distillery and Crosby’s Fancy Molasses. The Clarke brothers call their Gingersnap Canadian Rum Cream Liqueur “their greatest creation yet.” The liqueur has an undeniable flavour of gingersnap cookies; the pairing of the smooth, rich Crosby’s molasses and Moonshine Creek’s Canadian rum—plus the addition of some cream—makes this a component of the perfect Christmas Eve cocktail. I also particularly love the label on this one; it reminds me of a nostalgic 1950s magazine ad.
dark roast that’s been complemented with an espresso-like flavour, vanilla, and caramelized sugar. Simply pour over ice and add a bit of cream for a coffee-like indulgence. Or pour over ice cream. Or in your coffee if you’re staying home.
While on the topic of the changing seasons, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention Peppermint Patrick; this one gets huge points from me simply for the name. Peppermint Pattie’s grown up, rebellious cousin is welcome at any of my holiday parties! Coming in with that warm chocolate and mint flavour, Peppermint Patrick is definitely at home on my liquor cart during the winter holiday
The perfect companion for any celebration.
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Add a sparklelittle
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GT 16
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½ (14
GT 17GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST PatrickPeppermintChocolateMartini
Serves 1
4 oz (125 mL) milk chocolate
oz
1 (42
8oz (250 mL) martini rock glass, rim with melted chocolate and sprinkles and place in the freezer for 15 minutes.
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Add ice, Peppermint Patrick liqueur and whisky, finish with cream and stir.
mL) DownriverLotsWhiskyofice
MoonshineHotCheesecakeCreekChocolate
Usingsprinklesan
18%
2 oz (57 mL) Chicken Bone liqueur
½ oz
1 oz (28 mL) 35% heavy cream
Serves 2
2 cups (500 mL) whole milk Whipped cream for topping
¼ oz (7 mL) coffee
Combine the milk chocolate and 1 oz (57 mL) of cream in a double boiler, stir until melted and combined. Add Chicken Bone and Gingersnap liqueurs, mix well. Stir in hot chocolate powder and mix to combine. Add milk or whipping cream and stir until smooth and hot. Pour into two 8-oz (250 mL) glasses and top with whipped cream.
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cream
1 oz (28 mL) Gingersnap liqueur
DOWNHOME RECIPESDOWNHOME RECIPES
and
mL) Peppermint Patrickliqueur
Melted chocolate chocolate
¼ cup (50 mL) hot chocolatepowder
Areyoureadytocelebrate ANDDIVERSITYINCLUSION? It’s time to share your story MADE RIGHT HERE.
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“Like kissing the sea on the lips”
Oysters can live in the fridge for up to three weeks, but during that time, you will have to drain any excess liquids that accumulate and ensure that the cloth on top remains damp.
Atlantic Canadians have a love affair with oysters
y first experiences with oysters happened at an early age. I distinctly remember my father returning from Caraquet, New Brunswick after attending a Knights of Columbus meeting, a bounty of fresh lobster and oysters in hand. This was not a common occurrence in our home, and the fact that I was even allowed to try the oysters is a bit surprising, since normally that type of luxury was reserved for the adults.
When I first experienced oysters there were no added enhancements. Today, it is very common to add hot sauces, citrus such as lemon or lime, or even a mignonette, a sweet/acidic mixture often enhanced with shallot and fruit. However you choose to enhance your oyster enjoyment, it’s very important to remember that any additions should add to the natural flavour and not distract or overpower it.
If you prefer to freeze your oysters, you’ll have to remove them from the shell. Shuck each one, and then cover the oysters with their own liquor. Oysters will do well in the freezer for two to three months.
I was only five or six years old at the time and had no understanding how to properly appreciate the oyster, I put it to my lips, quickly let it pass over my tongue and into my stomach. I recall texture but have no recollection of taste.
Story by Johanne and Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
When you’re ready to consume your raw oysters, brush the shells to remove any debris and quickly rinse under water. It is important that you do this just prior to eating them, so that the oyster does not drown. There are many options for enjoying oysters. You can open them, remove the meat, and cook, or you can simply open the shell, loosen the mollusc from the inductor muscle, and enjoy raw.
weighty shell is an indicator of quality. If you tap the shell and hear a hollow sound, that means that the oyster has lost its liquor, and this one too should be avoided. Once shucked, the oyster should be surrounded by a beautiful clear liquid with no Oncecloudiness.youdetermined that your oysters are of premium quality it’s important to follow correct storage procedures. Chances are that your oysters will have arrived in a wooden or cardboard box. Remove them from that box and place them in a shallow container, flat side up. Cover them with a damp wet cloth to keep them from drying out.
GT 20 FRESH AND LOCAL
Now, at a later stage in life, I’ve learned to appreciate the more subtle nuances of oysters and how different regions produce oysters with a unique flavour. These creatures are affected by the salinity, minerals, nutrients, and temperature in their water, and how this greatly affects how the oyster will taste. Unlike almost any other product of the ocean, an oyster will literally taste like the sea. The French poet and essayist Léon-Paul Fargue famously likened eating oysters to “like kissing the sea on the I’velips.”learned that before the oyster slips over my tongue, I need to pause and savour the flavour, and then delicately work the oyster around in my mouth, chewing lightly, releasing even more flavour and allowing me to appreciate the texture.
M
The oyster industry in Atlantic Canada is one that is rich in both tradition and pride. The wild fishery in our region can be traced back as far as the 1600s. Oysters were first cultivated sometime in the 1850s. Today, both industries are alive and vibrant, with oysters still being harvested in the wild and produced on private leases.
When shopping for oysters it’s important to look for a tightly closed and undamaged shell. If the shells are open slightly, tap each oyster to ensure that it will close; if it does not, then discard it, as with other fresh shellfish.
Gently shake the oyster and listen carefully and you should not hear any liquid sloshing around in the shell. If you do, this will indicate an immature oyster that should not be eaten. A full,
There are four categories of oysters available in the market: standard, choice, fancy, and commercial. The category that an oyster falls into will be determined by the length and width of the shell. Larger oysters are often considered the most desirable.
GT 21GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST FRESH AND LOCAL
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½ cup (125 mL) sugar
½ cup (125 mL) shallots, finely diced
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½ cup (125 mL) white wine
1 tbsp (15 mL) your favourite hot and spicy pepper sauce
Makes 2 cups
½ cup (125 mL) wild blueberries,pulsed
Add all ingredients to a large jar and shake well, then let rest in the refrigerator for at least an hour. This will keep for a few weeks in the refrigerator.
GT 22 FRESH AND LOCAL
WildMignonetteBlueberry
½ cup (125 mL) cider vinegar
In a small bowl, mix tomatoes, cucumber, olives and shallots, then incorporate the cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, sea salt and freshlyground pepper. Mix well and refrigerate.Placeoysters on a cookie sheet and bake for three-four minutes; remove from oven, fill with the stuffing, top with feta cheese and broil for two minutes. Serve immediately.
To shuck an oyster, hold the deep side of the shell down with the hinge facing towards you. Secure both the top and bottom of the oyster on a towel that has been placed on a hard, immovable surface.
Oyster bars have become extremely popular, and are a wonderful place to experience oysters from all around Atlantic Canada and beyond . Take the opportunity to sample two or three oysters from various regions and countries, taking time to note the flavour variances. You will quickly discover which areas produce your favourites. Keep in mind that oysters are available year-round, always fresh, and always full of flavour.
MediterraneanStyleBakedOysters
¼
Stuffing
Serves 4
Other options for enjoying oysters are to steam them, pan fry them, grill, deep fry, stuff or use in soups and chowders.
1 medium shallot, diced cucumber,Englishdiced
½ lime, juice only
If you plan to serve your oysters raw, it is important to serve them very cold and to keep them on a bed of ice, which will help maintain their firm texture. Allow six oysters per person if serving them as an appetizer, and 12 if you are serving them as a main course.
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GT 23GRACIOUS LIVING ON THE EAST COAST FRESH AND LOCAL
½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 350°F/177°C
16 large oysters, shucked on the half shell
Insert a dedicated oyster knife between the shells as close to the hinge as possible, twist the knife to separate the halves. The oyster is attached to the shell by a strong muscle known as an inductor muscle. Slide your oyster knife across the top shell to detach from the muscle. At this point the upper shell can be discarded. Next, slip your oyster knife under the oyster to remove it from the bottom muscle, but leave the oyster in the shell, remove any noticeable grit or shell. It’s important not to spill any of the briny liquid surrounding the oyster; this liquid is known as the liquor and should be consumed with the oyster.
6 red and yellow tomatoes,cherrydiced
½ tsp (2 mL) coarse sea salt
2 oz (57 g) feta cheese, crumbled
¼ cup (50 mL) diced black olives
2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
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Made with Local snack foods support local producers, partners
In 2020 the company launched a granola bar mix and also partnered up with their third social enterprise, this one located in Ontario, where they continue to focus on the same relationship with local suppliers.
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product sourced from producers in our region, including blueberries from Van Dyk’s, cranberries from Terra Beata, honey from Cosman and Whidden, and Crosby’s molasses, among others.
In 2014 Sheena teamed up with The Flower Cart in New Minas, NS, a social enterprise that pairs employers with individuals who have various challenges that make finding meaningful work difficult. The Flower Cart team, along with several other social enterprises, co packs the bars and Original Goodness Bar mixes for made with local. They employ more than 100 persons, this also means that every single Made With Local bar is genuinely handmade.
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Made with Local bars are available in 1,500 retailers across Canada, including Sobeys, Loblaw’s, (Real Atlantic Superstore and Independents in our region) Co-op, Save on Foods, and Healthy Planet. In addition, you can find their bars at a variety of independent retailers. If you visit the Made with Local website (madewithlocal.com) you’ll find an online store locater, recipes, and you can also order products directly from the company to be shipped to your home.
his year one of my favourite Atlantic Canadian companies is turning 11 years old! Made with Local was founded in 2011 by Sheena Russell and Kathy MacDonald, gym partners who knew that they could make a food bar that would provide nourishment while still delivering a punch of Madeflavour.WithLocal
Bars were first sold outside of the World Tea House in Halifax, where they were an instant hit and sold out immediately. Sheena recognized that she had a desirable product on her hands and decided to move to the Seaport Farm
Market. This would turn out to be the permanent home for Made with Local for the first two years of the company’s existence. The two friends baked the bars after hours at a friend’s café—while still maintaining regular jobs that required 40 hours a week, in addition to the weekend vending.
Made with Local Bars are a delicious variety of grab and go bars with flavours like Lemon Square, Chocolate Mint Chip, Peanut Butter Blondie, and Blueberry Grunt. All of their bars are chock full of healthy local ingredients; in fact, 90 per cent of the bars by weight are made up of
Good food with a social conscience
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By Alain PhotographyBosséby Steve Smith/VisionFire
Running late? Our food is on time. Find prepared food solutions in the Meat, Seafood, Deli, Kitchen, and Produce Departments. SOB_CPN_RFY_SBD-V1_XXSF-SB-UF_220908_B Available at RE A DY FOR YOU FRESHLY PREPARED
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Repaying kindness with kindness (and food!)
Rania and Basem Almethyb create friendships from their restaurant in New Glasgow, NS
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By Jodi DeLong Photography by Bruce Murray/VisionFire
T
here’s a cheerful chime of bells as I open the door to Maple Cedar Syrian Kitchen, a modest restaurant in a strip mall just off the highway in New Glasgow. Tempting scents from spices and cooking waft through the air, and shelves along the walls are brimming with groceries—spices, dates, oils, teas, sweets and more—for those with a fondness for Middle EasternRaniacuisine.Almethyb
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emerges from the kitchen with a warm smile and a welcome. As she prepares tea for us, two of her friends arrive: Sue MacIntosh and Cathy Hanley, both of whom are volunteers with Pictou County Safe Harbour, a non-profit and volunteer-driven refugee sponsorship society. (See sidebar). Although Rania’s English is very good—whereas when she
2 large tomatoes, diced
Seemingly out of the blue, recently-arrived immigrant Tareq Haddad, (now owner of Peace by Chocolate), called Basem
And what a story it is. She and her husband, Basem, and their three oldest children, Mohammed, Abdullah, and Ali, fled their home city of Daraa, Syria, in 2013, and spent more than two years in a refugee camp in Jordan.
¼ cup chopped onions
and told him about Pictou County Safe Harbour, the local organization that had agreed to sponsor the Almethyb family to come to Nova Scotia. Rania says she was frightened about this strange new place, but she and Basem knew they had to go to a safe country for the sake of their children. Within 40 days, they were in Nova Scotia—arriving in February of 2016, and moving into a house in New Glasgow.
For the first year, while under sponsorship from Pictou County Safe Harbour, the family focused on learning English, settling into their new community and getting the children into school. A fifth child, Hamza, was born after they arrived in New Glasgow. Word of Rania’s love of cooking began to spread in the Safe Harbour organization. As Cathy explains it, “her love of cooking showed immediately, because whenever we would bring something to the house to help the family out, there was always food.”
1 cup fresh mint leaves, loosely packed
Rania’s observation? “It was so cold,” she smiles, “it was a hard year for me, no language, hard weather, and not too many people locally spoke Arabic when we first moved here. But when we arrived, everything was ready for us—with love, with beautiful people, they make us feel like family. And I feel the same as if in my own country.”
Rania says, “we thought we were leaving Syria for just a couple of months, and I was heartbroken that we left family and our beautiful home and good work behind.” When the family was asked if the Almethyb family was interested in immigrating to another country, they quickly agreed. “We needed a future for our children,” she says. “There was no future, no life, nothing in the camp.” To add to their complications, Rania had the couple’s fourth child, daughter Raneem, while in Jordan, and Basem had knee replacement and couldn’t work for months, so their eldest son, Mohammed, left school and began working to help the family. “I just kept praying for something to happen.”
Fattoush Salad
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This fresh, delicious salad is a staple for many Middle Eastern dishes, and a recipe often asked for at Maple Cedar Syrian Kitchen.
Makes 4 generous servings
and her family arrived in 2016, none of them spoke any, she is more comfortable speaking with me with her friends there, to help clarify anything she might not completely understand. Within a few minutes, with hot tea and a plate of Syrian cookies to tempt us, Rania starts to tell her family’s story.
croutons and radish, if desired
¼ cup diced green pepper
1 head Romaine lettuce, torn into small pieces
1 cup fresh flat leaf parsley leaves, loosely packed
¾Dressingcup olive oil
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Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup cucumbers, diced
½ cup fresh lemon juice
Combine all salad ingredients. Set aside. Combine dressing ingredients, mixing well. Pour over salad and toss well to combine. Garish with croutons and radish if desired. Serve at once.
Rania and Basem are very conscious of being able to give back to the community, always supporting various groups when there are events or fundraisers. “My husband and me, people helped us, and we love back, we help back in return.”
Are there challenges in running the restaurant? Rania says, sometimes it’s hard to find halal chicken required by Muslim diets, and “At first, we didn’t have enough language for the customers, and there were a lot of mistakes.” She laughs, “My customers helped me and weren’t mad. We didn’t know anything about business, about taxes and computers, and we had to get licences, inspections, food handler certification, and our friends in Safe Harbour gave us so much help.”
HARBOURSAFECOUNTYPICTOU
In the meantime, Basem had found work with a man originally from Lebanon, Fred El Haddad, who ran a small restaurant in the town, Maple Cedar. The name celebrated both the national tree of Canada, the Maple, and that of Lebanon, the Cedar. After two years, Fred sold the restaurant to Basem and Rania in 2019 with the advice to “make the food with love, like you would for your own people, and you will be a good owner.”
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Maple Cedar Syrian Kitchen was born, and was immediately successful. Then came COVID-19, which could have played havoc with the Almethyb family’s business, but Rania says proudly that they didn’t have to close a single day. “Our customers knew our restaurant, and we already did a lot of takeout, plus we were at the market when it reopened, so we were
Encouraged by her friends, Rania began making sweets— cookies and baklava—and selling them at the New Glasgow Farmers Market on weekends. The response was immediately positive, so she began to add chicken shawarma to her offerings. Her sales jumped, and people were encouraging her to open a restaurant. But how?
Encouraged by the positive response to the restaurant, Rania and Basem began bringing in Middle Eastern groceries to sell at the restaurant. “We hope in the future to make the restaurant bigger and to open a grocery for multicultural people, this is a dream for us. But not yet.” The couple and their restaurant were recently honoured with the 2022 Newcomer Award from the Pictou County Chamber of Commerce—and Rania took the opportunity during her acceptance speech to invite people to come to the restaurant.
has a mixed menu of Middle East and Canadian foods—pizza, fish and chips, and donairs, plus Middle Eastern delights like the ever-popular shawarma, falafel, fattoush, tabouli, stuffed grape leaves and more. Lunchtime during the school year is always very busy, as dozens of students come from the nearby high school to grab a slice and pop for a very reasonable price.
Thefortunate.”restaurant
“We are repaying kindness with kindness,” Rania says firmly.
and many people stop to say hello. Plus she has customers coming from all around the area, saying, “I couldn’t do all this with just my husband because I don’t have enough English, but I have beautiful friends and they help me all the time!”
Asked how the community has responded to the newcomers in their midst, Rania is adamant. “This seems to be a very inclusive community,” she says, “I didn’t see anything like racism here, everyone was welcoming and helpful. I thought maybe, where I wear a hijab, it would be different, but it’s not. Maybe someone not loves me, but I don’t know it!” All of the family members are now proudly Canadian citizens, too. Rania recounts how she goes to the grocery store with her children,
Safe harbours for refugees
Cathy Hanley speaks of a situation several years ago when members of the Syrian Civil Defence force—the White Helmets—were being threatened in their homeland and Canada and other countries came and took many people to safety. It’s fitting that Rania was the translator at the airport when one of the five families sponsored by Pictou County Safe Harbour arrived in Nova Scotia. The family has also helped some Ukrainian families who have moved to the area.
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Pictou County Safe Harbour is one of a number of volunteer refugee sponsorship organizations throughout Nova Scotia. Sue MacIntosh says, “the group started after the young boy, Alan Kurdi, washed up on a beach in Turkey in the fall of 2015. As a congregation, Trinity United Church felt that we needed to do something to help refugees.” Through the United Church, they got space to organize and applied to sponsor a family to the county. Within several years, the society had sponsored a few families to the area, with the Almethyb family being the first.
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