Belgrade In- your-pocket Vodic nov-dec 2010 by Nenad Danilovic

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELGRADE November-December 2010

Science Festival The biggest event for the promotion of science in the region

N°11

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Cirque du Soleil Saltimbanco The world’s most exciting circus comes to Belgrade for the first time

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Belgrade

Land on your feet in the Serbian capital

The Basics

History

Culture & Events

Exhibitions, concerts, festival and more

Where to stay

Business suites to hostel bunks

Restaurants

Vegetarians beware!

Cafés

Coffee and cigarettes are mandatory in Belgrade

Caryatids at the monument to the Unknown Hero on Mt Avala, a work of the prominent Yugoslav sculptor Ivan Meštrović

Nightlife

The city that truly never sleeps

What to see

Churches, parks museums and more

Mail & Phones

Getting around

Belgrade and beyond

Shopping

Souvenirs and Keepsakes

Business Directory

Invest in Belgrade

Lifestyle Directory

From Masseurs to Dentists

Sports

Maps&Index Index & Street register City centre map City map Country map

63 64 66 67

An incredible sunset behind New Belgrade's power station

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November-December 2010

Foreword While Europe is bracing for one of the coldest winters in decades, visitors to the Serbian capital should take comfort in the fact that no amount of snow or freezing temperatures can put a damper on Belgrade's easygoing spirit, cultural richness (p 19) or unparalleled nightlife (p 41). Over the next couple months an especially diverse selection of exhibitions, concerts, festivals and other events should guarantee that no matter what your interests or tastes you'll have somewhere warm to spend your days and nights. Exhibitions range from contemporary Korean works (p 11) to new acquisitions at Museum of Applied Art (p 12), while musical events likewise offer a variety of choices such as electro-Tango (p 13), a Gypsy opera and weekly performances by the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra (p 18), and if you're interested in science, the environment or underwater filmmaking (p 17) then there's a festival for you! Of course the most anticipated event of the season is probably Cirque de Soleil's five-night run of Saltimbanco at Belgrade Arena (p 15). Here at In Your Pocket, we've been hard at work to bring you the most up to date info on our favourite city, adding hotels (p 21), restaurants (p 32) and nearly a dozen new bars and clubs (p 41) to our listings, as well as a mini biography of the eccentric genius and one of Serbia's favourite sons, Nikola Tesla (p 10). As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Twitter, Facebook or even old-fashioned email.

Europe In Your Pocket

Cover story Currently the tallest building in Serbia at 205m, Avala Tower was designed by architects Uglješa Bogdanović and Slobodan Janjić and originally opened in 1965. On 29 April 1999, it was destroyed by NATO bombardment under somewhat dubious circumstances - supposedly targeted in order to keep Radio Television Serbia off the air, broadcasts has already been shifted to a network of local TV stations - and prior to 11 September 2001, held the distinction of being the tallest building ever destroyed. After a lengthy fund raising campaign the tower was completely rebuilt, and officially reopened in October 2009, with the new addition of a restaurant and observation platform at the top.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Belgrade In Your Pocket Živojina Žujovića 24 11000 Belgrade, Serbia tel. (+38111)38 300 50 tel. (+38111)38 220 22 fax (+38111)38 228 88 belgrade@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820-7693 COBISS.SR-ID 147725324

Belgrade In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground. Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket is now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial capital with all the usual essential information an In Your Pocket guide provides. We also recently took the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Editorial Contributors Nevena Kravčuk, Biljana Nedeljković Design Boba Jovanović Layout Milan Komlenić Research Nevena Kravčuk, Biljana Nedeljković Photos BG Info Box gallery Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG Info Box

Text and photos copyright Belgrade In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Sales & Circulation General Manager Saša Marjanović Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo Avala Tower, Printed by Beoteleprom Published 6 times per year 20,000 copies

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Editor’s note

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foreword The In Your Pocket iPhone App

Press Box

A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Developed in association with Meta4Labs, the apps combine all the best features of In Your Pocket guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality of the iPhone.

“Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” The Guardian “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.” Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times “Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.” The Independent

You can search all venues in a city by location, and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content offline. We even supply high-resolution static street and transport maps (exactly the same as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge roaming charges. Other features include fully integrated Google Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, embedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency exchange calculator and local weather information. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res graphics for iPhone 4. And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are updated regularly by local researchers and native English speaking writers. More than ten In Your Pocket cities are currently available as iPhone apps, and more are being released all the time. Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and on your iPhone.

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“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times “With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks.” The Times “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publisher’s website.” Sueddeutsche Zeitung “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon.” International Herald Tribune

November-December 2010

ARRIVING IN BELGRADE By plane

Nikola Tesla Airport is located some 18km west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, a 24-hour exchange office, several ATMs, and a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, (+381) 11 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, (+381) 11 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. The Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. The cheapest option for getting to the city centre is bus 72, which leaves from right in front of the Departures hall (one level above arrivals). The bus terminates at Zeleni Venac, which is only a couple hundred metres from Terazija Square, and costs 100 RSD - don't forget to punch the ticket in the automat! It's best to ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at the arrivals hall, because chances are they will rip you off. The best advice is to call a taxi (or ask someone to do it for you) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 minutes, and the price should not exceed €14 (except on weekends and public holidays). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. The number of passengers or amount of luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+381) 11 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+381) 11 970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+381) 11 9801.

By car

Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motorways. Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving license, vehicle registration certificate and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by the signatory countries of the Vehicle Insurance Convention and citizens of other countries are required to buy an insurance policy on entering Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motorway runs through the city. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.

By train

Back in the days of the Orient Express, a journey by train was the best way to get to Belgrade. The Central Railway Station dates back to 1884 and is situated in the downtown area. Besides the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only place in town where you should beware of pickpockets and rip off merchants. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs,

Exchange rates (on October 28, 2010.): US$1 = 77.9, €1 = 107.66, UK£1 = 123.08

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade - TOB: Nikola Tesla Airport tel. 209 78 28. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00. Central Railway Station B-2, tel. 361 27 32. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Knez Mihailova 6 C-2, tel. 328 18 59. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

Terazije passageway near the Albania build-

ing C-2, tel. 263 56 22. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. Information Centre of the Tourist Organisation of Serbia: Čika Ljubina 8/1 C-2, tel. 655 71 00. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00..

Street smarts Street - Ulica Square - Trg Boulevard - Bulevar Highway - Autoput

Road - Put Quay - Kej Bridge - Most

a left luggage office, and a tourist information centre. When you leave the station, you will have to fight your way through the line of importuning taxi sharks, waiting in ambush in front of the station building. Ignore them, and if you want a taxi, hail one a little down the street. There is a tram stop outside the station building and line N°2 circles around the very center of the city. This might be best solution if you're looking for a cheap ride. You can purchase your ticket at a kiosk before climbing aboardat a flat price of 42 dinars, or on one of the trams from the driver for 80 dinars. If the prospect of a steep, 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street and reach the very centre of the city - Terazije.

By bus

Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses which connects it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus Station, one of the ugliest structures to be seen when entering the city, lies next to the Central Railway Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply here too. The same goes for the information on how to get to the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and a left-luggage office. Located across the street, next to a small park, the arrivals area is separated from the station building. You can find a tourist information office at the nearby railway station.

By boat

Market values McDonald’s Big Mac 1kg of beef 10 eggs Loaf of white bread Snickers bar Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket

Tourist information

210din. 530din. 120din. 38din. 46din. 38din. 150din. 42din.

€1.95 €4.92 €1.11 €0.35 €0.43 €0.35 €1.39 €0.39

The Danube River flows through Serbia, providing 588 km of navigable waterway. You can arrive in Belgrade on a Danube cruise boat or your own yacht. Via the Danube River and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, Belgrade is connected to the North Sea and the Black Sea. The passenger dock of the Belgrade Port, including the international border crossing, is located on the right bank of the Sava River, near Branko Bridge. The dock features an exchange office, ATM, a souvenir shop and a tourist information office. Belgrade Fortress is within walking distance and if you want to go elsewhere in Belgrade the easiest way is to take a taxi. You can either call one (for more info on Belgrade taxis see p. 49) or hail it in the street in front of the dock.

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Basics Disabled travellers

The Delta City and Mercator shopping malls offer facilities for people with disabilities. Pedestrian crossings on the main city arteries have sloped kerbs and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. And that, sadly, is that. Most restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offer toilet facilities to them.

Geography

Serbia takes up an area of 88,361km2. The country borders Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The Midžor peak at Stara planina (Old Mountain) is the highest in Serbia at 2,156m. The Danube flows 588km through the country, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is the Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of the Western Morava (308km) and the Southern Morava (295km). Belgrade itself lies at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube Rivers.

Health

Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable and you won‘t need to worry about their skills if you should become ill. The worrying part of the experience is the poor maintenance of state-run hospitals, which is a consequence of underfunding, and the red tape involved in getting admitted to hospital. If you have any minor health issues, it would be better to visit a private clinic so that you avoid an agonising wait.

Homosexuality

Public displays of homosexuality are largely unacceptable in Belgrade. If you are gay, you are advised not to be too affectionate in the street, because intolerant onlookers may respond with varying degrees of hostility. There are a few gay clubs in Belgrade, for more info visit www.gay-serbia.com or www.belgrade-gay.com.

Local laws & Police

Prostitution and drug use are illegal so try and stay away from these potential sources of trouble. Besides, being a foreigner you may not be able to spot plain clothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches but that should not cause you any alarm.

Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)

Climate 100 90 80 70 60 50 40

Sailing on the river Sava

Local time

Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. When it is noon in Belgrade it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.

Money

The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a "Serbian dinar" dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000 and 5,000 dinars. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the city (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Belgrade will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. The first ATM in southern Europe was installed in Belgrade in the early 80s.You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and parking fees. Throughout the city, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Belgrade are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Belgrade market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.

Important phone numbers

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Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 November-December 2010

Basics On the city’s roads

As a result of a surprisingly small number of bridges, a bypass is currently under construction in Belgrade. This will be most welcome when it has been completed because with a motorway running through the centre almost, there are no normal rush hours. Instead, there are traffic jams on the major interchanges pretty much all day long. Belgraders as a rule drive fast and change lanes abruptly without signalling and they do not suffer slower drivers gladly. A yellow line which marks the right-most lane actually means the lane is reserved for public transport and taxis. Do not come too close to the curb, because some mysterious bandits seem to be operating outside the city centre and targeting manhole lids, so you run the risk of your wheel hitting the hole. In short, if you have little penchant for the Dakar Rally experience, it would be best to abandon the idea of driving round Belgrade. After all, the best way to get to know a city is on foot.

Population

Serbia’s population in 2002, excluding Kosovo and Metohija, came to 7,498,001, Belgrade’s in the same year was 1,576,124. The country’s ethnic make up then, again without considering Kosovo and Metohija, was: Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniaks 1,82%, Roma 1,44% and others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic as the official script. However the Latin script is also used just as much

Religion

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion in Serbia. The Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are those of Islam, Catholicism and Judaism.

National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 2-5 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Good Friday to second day of Easter) 1 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (Commemorative Day)

Smoking

Most Belgraders consider coffee and cigarettes a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking is currently allowed in all restaurants and cafés. However, from 11 November 2010, the city is scheduled to begin enforcing a smoking ban similar to those in place in many EU countries. Smoking is already outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices, hospitals, etc).

Toilets

Public toilets in downtown Belgrade are extremely hard to find. There are none at the Belgrade Fortress and the nearest one is in Kalemegdan Park. The existing ones are fairly decent, free and can be found in large parks. They are open from 07:00 - 23:00. If you need to use the toilet whilst strolling around the city, you can go to one in a nearby café or restaurant, or a public garage.

Visas

If you are a citizen of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Russia, Japan, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Macedonia, Tunisia, Singapore, Mexico, Bolivia, New Zealand or the Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and can stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs C-3, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. (+381) 11 306 82 68 or Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners) B-3, Savska 35, tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

Safety

A new bridge is nearing completion on Ada Ciganlija

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Belgrade is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the city where a girl cannot be out on her own in the middle of the night. There are other hazards that you should be aware of when you are in in the city, though. While you are strolling round the Old Town, beware of the bits and pieces that may fall off the old buildings waiting their turn for restoration. At the same time, you should tread carefully (particularly on Svetogorska, Vlajkovićeva, Palmotićeva and Hilandarska Streets) because irresponsible dog owners hardly ever clean up after their pets, leaving behind a veritable minefield of muck. There are stray dogs too, but they generally mind their own business and don’t cause anyone any bother.

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history 7000 BC Neolithic settlement established. 279 BC First mention of Singidunum, the original name of the city. Founded by the Scordisci, a Celtic tribe. 86 AD HQ of the 4th Roman Legion Flavia Felix. 395 The Roman Empire splits into two and Singidunum becomes a part of the Eastern Roman Empire. Strategically located on the northwestern border, it is exposed to diverse cultural influences and is a magnet for every aspiring conqueror. 441-827 Invaded and ravaged successively by Huns, Sarmatians, Goths, Gepidaes, Avars, Slavs, the Byzantine Empire, and Bulgaria. Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans in the 6th century. Slavs embrace Christianity in the 9th century. 878 First mention of the Slavic name of the city - Belgrade. Pope John VIII writes a letter to Bulgarian Prince Boris I Mihail, informing him about the dismissal of Bishop of Belgrade for debauchery. 896-1232 Belgrade is a battleground between rivals Hungary and the Byzantine Empire, it changes hands eight times. Once seized by Bulgaria and twice ransacked by Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem. 1166 Creating an independent Serbian state, Stefan Nemanja asserts himself as the Grand Prince of Serbs. He's also a founder of the Nemanjić dynasty and crowned King of the Serbs by the Pope. 1219 Serbian Orthodox Church gains independence. 1284 King Stefan Dragutin receives Belgrade from Hungary as a gift - this is the first time that the city passes to Serbian rule. 1346 King Stefan Dušan of the Nemanjić house is crowned Emperor of Serbs and Greeks. Following his demise, the empire dissolves and Serbian noblemen create their own states. 1389 Battle of Kosovo. Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović rallies Serbian noblemen to stand up against Turkish expansion into Europe. Europe celebrates the victory of Christianity because of the death of the Turkish sultan and the Turkish retreat. On the other hand Serbia cannot recover from the defeat as most of its nobility, including Prince Lazar, perish in the battle. He is succeeded by his underage son Stefan Lazarević, who becomes a Turkish vassal. 1403 Despot Stefan Lazarević receives Belgrade from Hungary, rebuilds it and makes it the capital of Serbia. 1427 Following the death of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Hungary reclaims Belgrade. 1440 Sultan Murad II lays siege to Belgrade with 100,000 Turkish soldiers and 200 ships. The city survives the siege following a fierce struggle. 1456 Sultan Mehmed II besieges Belgrade with 150,000 soldiers. The Turks lift the siege when their Sultan is wounded. 1459 The Turks conquer the Serbian capital of Smederevo; which marks the beginning of a five- century long Turkish domination over Serbia. 1521 Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent captures Belgrade with 300,000 soldiers, and deports the entire population to Istanbul. 1688-1791 Belgrade is occupied by Austria and Turkey six times. 1804 Serbian uprising against the Turks started by Đorđe Petrović Karađorđe. 1807 Led by Karađorđe, Serbs liberate Belgrade and make it the capital of Serbia. Karađorđe is subsequently proclaimed a hereditary ruler. He founds the Karađorđević dynasty. 1813 The Turks occupy Belgrade; the uprising is crushed; Karađorđe flees Serbia. 1815 Miloš Obrenović leads the Second Serbian Uprising. Serbia is offered partial autonomy. 1817 Karađorđe is murdered on his return to Serbia, on the orders of Miloš Obrenović.

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Belgrade's rivers serve a major transportation hub 1830 Turkey grants autonomy to Serbia. Miloš Obrenović is acknowledged as hereditary Prince. He founds the Obrenović dynasty. 1862 The murder of a Serbian boy triggers a clash between Serbian and Turkish soldiers which ends in an international treaty bringing the Turkish control over Belgrade to an end. 1867 The Turks withdraw from Belgrade. The Turkish commander hands over the keys to Belgrade Fortress to Prince Mihailo Obrenović. 1876 Serbian-Turkish war. Serbs liberate southeastern Serbia. 1878 Formal independence of Serbia recognized at the Congress of Berlin. 1882 Kingdom of Serbia proclaimed under King Milan Obrenović. 1903 The May Coup d’Etat. A group of army officers assassinate King Aleksandar Obrenović and Queen Draga Mašin, because their marriage is unacceptable to the public. The house of Obrenović becomes extinct and King Petar I Karađorđević (grandson to Karađorđe) claims the throne. 1912 First Balkan War pits the Balkan League (Serbia, Greece, Montenegro and Bulgaria) against the Ottoman Empire. The Turks are driven out of Kosovo and Metohija, the last occupied part of Serbia. 1913 Second Balkan War waged and won by Serbia against Bulgaria. 1914 Outbreak of World War I. Austro-Hungary shells and captures Belgrade. After the Battle of Cer and Kolubara, the first allied victories in WWI, the Serbian army liberates Belgrade and drives the Austro-Hungarian army out of Serbia. 1915 Germany and Bulgaria enter the war siding with Austro-Hungary. German and Austro-Hungarian troops occupy Belgrade. This is the beginning of a three-yearlong occupation and plunder of the city. The Serbian army retreats under attack across Albania towards Greece and Corfu Island. 1916 Recovered Serbian soldiers join the allied army on the Salonica Front. 1918 With the breakthrough on the Salonica Front, the Serbian army returns to Serbia. In WWI, there were 1,247,000 Serbian casualties, or 28% of the country’s total population. The Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state and Belgrade becomes the capital of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (later Yugoslavia). 1934 King Aleksandar visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany. During this visit he's assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis (Germany-Italy-Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yearold Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany

November-December 2010

HISTORY Nikola Tesla Born in the small Serbian village of Smiljan in what was then the Austrian Empire, Nikola Tesla (1856 - 1943) went on to become one of the most prolific inventors of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and revolutionise the field of electromagnetism. After originally studying electrical engineering at the Austrian Polytechnic in Graz in 1875, Tesla held a variety of positions in the cities of Maribor, Prague and Budapest, and was briefly the chief electrician of Hungary's first telephone system before moving to France to work for the Continental Edison Company in 1882. Tesla moved to the US in 1884, and was charged with completely redesigning Edison's inefficient direct current generators, but left the company after less than two years over a disagreement about pay. This led to a lifelong feud between the two inventors and the so-called War of Currents, which was won by Tesla's system of alternating current in the following decade. In 1891, Tesla established his own laboratory in New York, and went on to not only pioneer modern day electrical engineering, but also contributed greatly to the fields of wireless technology, robotics, computer science and theoretical physics. Despite his unparalleled scientific contributions, during his lifetime Tesla's genius was often overshadowed by his somewhat eccentric personality and penchant for seemingly outrageous (although sometimes entirely true) claims about future scientific and technological advancements. In particular, his later attempts to develop a directed-energy weapon, referred to in the press as a 'death ray', contributed greatly to his image as the proto-typical mad scientist. After his death in 1943, Tesla's ashes were taken to Belgrade, and have resided in a gold-plated spherical urn at the Nikola Tesla Museum (p.49) since 1957. bombs Belgrade on 6th April. The King and the Government go to exile. Two Serbian resistance movements - the Chetniks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s Partisans are born. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and the Independent State of Croatia. 1944 Belgrade is repeatedly bombed by the Allies. Tito’s Partisans and the Red Army liberate the city on 20th October. 1945 The human cost of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. The monarchy is abolished, the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed and Josip Broz Tito comes to power. In the post-war period, Belgrade grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II, is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1961 The first Conference of Non-Aligned Countries is held in Belgrade. 1968 Student protests are held against social inequities and bureaucracy. Soon after, hundreds of thousands of Belgraders in Nikola Pašić Square protest against the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by a ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from the Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, and, as a consequence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Belgrade for the first time in his life. 1992 The European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. The UN Security Council imposes an economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support for the Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia, who want to unite with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperinflation in history - a 500,000,000, 000 dinar note is printed in Belgrade. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of the Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. NATO forces bomb Serbia and Belgrade for three months, without the endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslavian succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. 2000 Slobodan Milošević is ousted amid huge protests over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on the remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 The State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. Belgrade is named City of the Future of South Europe by the Financial Times. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians over the status of Kosovo are held. Serbia offers broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With the support of the USA and some EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and the Metohija province of Serbia declare their independence. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. The Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and strives to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people gather in Belgrade in peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovan independence, while several hundred hooligans demolish and burn the empty US Embassy building.

Political framework

Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. MPs are elected for a term of 4 years and the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister is Mirko Cvetković. The Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (the deceased Slobodan Milošević’s party) form a governing coalition. The major opposition parties are the Serbian Progressive Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), the Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party.

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Culture & Events Event Listing Policy Our events listings are free and completely independent of paid-for advertising. If you know of an event that is of interest to an English-speaking audience, and which you would like to be published in our Culture & Events pages, please send details to belgrade@inyourpocket.com We will always do our best to list all events we recieve.

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Works by Dragana Grujičić 1-13 November 2010 Suluj Gallery In her second solo exhibition, this young Serbian visual artist explores women's physical and mental space. Her empathetic and emotional works attempt to communicate the typical of the views of young people and their personal lives. Several of her works are figuratively expressive self-portraits, with strongly contrasting colours. www. galerijasuluj.org.rs

Ljubomir Lacković

2-12 November 2010 Singidunum Gallery The exhibition is conceived as a blend of old and new, utilitarian and aesthetic, animate and inanimate. In accordance with the need to raise awareness of the importance of protecting the environment, the artist incorporates various recycled materials, which results in use-value items (mirrors, chairs, desks, lamps, etc) as well as sculptures of animals in which the artist tries to breathe life into the forms despite the materials from which they are made.

Mouth to Mouth to Mouth: Contemporary Art from Korea 10 October - 21 November 2010 14 Pariska (Museum of Contemporary Art) The exhibition Mouth to Mouth to Mouth, which presents the works of contemporary artists from Korea, emerged as a result of cooperation and dialogue between two curators: one born in Seoul and one in Belgrade. Therefore, although the exhibition, to a certain extent, has the intention to present an image of this art scene, it strives neither to assume the role of a review, nor to construct a certain historical narrative. Above all, it wishes to share with the Belgrade audience a selection of certain artistic attitudes that, each in its own way, position their work in regard to their cultural, political or economic context. Hence the need to emphasize from where this art is coming from, without the intention to transform it into some kind of cultural product that we have imported from Korea on this occasion. The title of the exhibition is inspired by Theresa Hak Kyung Cha’s video-piece Mouth to Mouth from 1975. The work explores the reaches and limitations of mother tongue by showing silent articulation of Korean vowels, while the noise disrupting the picture points to loss of language through time. The exhibition is comprised of video-pieces, video-installations, photographs and space installations of the artists that, together with Theresa Hak Kyung Cha, represent the new generation of artists from Korea aware of the heritage of conceptual art, its ethical, aesthetic and political implications. The presented works of the five artists do not determine linguistic and tautological concepts, but use the experience of conceptual art to negotiate their own position of mediator in complex social relations. Recognition of irony in the existing courses of this event, or conscious use of irony as an artistic strategy, is one of the approaches of the presented artists. Hence, we feel that this kind of intervention in the title of Theresa Cha’s work is an adequate act that points to the characteristics of works of the presented artists: irony, consideration of language, dealing with the themes of displacement and alienation. Artists: Theresa Hak Kyung Cha, Young-Hae Chang Heavy Industries, Minouk Lim, One Joon Che, Sung Hwan Kim. Curators: Ji Yoon Yang and Ana Nikitovic

Free Zone Festival

5-10 November 2010 This year's edition of Free Zone Festival, with its slogan Across the Line, will be held from November 5 to 10, in

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November-December 2010

Culture & Events

two locations - at the Belgrade Cultural Center and in the Yugoslav Film Archive. During the six Festival days, 26 films from all over the world will be shown, which, just like in the previous years, aim to cast a light on current social and political topics. During the Festival in the Belgrade Cultural Centre, the audience will get the chance to visit an exhibition of artistic works, some of which were used for the production of the Free Zone posters, and meet with the artists participating at the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Praise to the Handâ&#x20AC;? workshop, all of whom have Down syndrome. The official Festival opening will be held on 5 November at 19:00 in the Belgrade Cultural Centre, with the screening of If I Wish to Whistle, I Whistle by Florin Serban, and tickets will be available for all screenings from 2 November, at the Belgrade Cultural Centre and the Yugoslav Film Archive. See the festival's English language website for the complete programme, as well as short summaries of each film.

New collections: MAA acquisitions from 2001-2010 6 November 2010 - 31 January 2011 Museum of Applied Art The second of two exhibitions set to coincide with the 60th anniversary of Belgrade's acclaimed Museum of Applied Arts, it was conceived by the curators of the museum as a kind of tribute to both recent donors and the public. The exhibition will present the most representative objects from the collection of the museum that have been acquired during the last decade. The varied selection ranges from the

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eighteenth century to the present day, and includes jewelry, furniture, porcelain and glassware, art objects made of processed metals, clothing, carpets, pictures, postcards, illustrations, drawings, contemporary ceramic sculpture and installations. www.mpu.rs

Silver cups from the late Middle Ages in Serbia 6 November 2010 - 31 January 2011 Museum of Applied Art One of two exhibitions set to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Museum of Applied Arts, this has been organised by Mila Gajic, senior curator at the museum. Specific silver cups were designed for drinking wine, but,

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Culture & Events Punk Opera by Emir Kusturica 10-15 November 2010 Sava Centre Legendary Serbian filmmaker Emir Kusturica brings his extravagant must-see Gypsy opera to the Sava Centre for six nights in November. We'd best let the somewhat eccentric artist describe how the production came to be in his own words: "In the autumn of 2002, Mark di Domenico came to Belgrade to see me and suggested that I write an opera on the theme from the movie Time of the Gypsies. First of all, I must mention that we thought that this is a completely insane project. We had never before written an opera, and Mark had his own ideas when he came to see the film and watch the shows. He talked to us about his ideas with such enthusiasm that we were eventually just 'infected' with his idea and he persuaded us that such a challenge could be realised. At the same time, Gerard Mortje had long wanted me to produce an opera, because he was convinced that every Emir Kusturica film already contains a complete opera. When he heard the talks about this project, he immediately insert a scene in the program at the Bastille Opera and that was actually the beginning. And after that beginning of all critics of the world and all the world's most respected magazines have rated this opera as something amazing, full of emotions, honestly, sadness, life...." And that about says it all. www. domzavesanje.com.

of environmental protection - such as workshops, installations, exhibitions and performances. The review section will include recent documentary film productions, short films inspired by the events are related to ecology and environmental protection, as well as films made with mobile phones. Among other entries is the film Bay, a 2010 Academy Award winner and Audience Award winner for best documentary at the 2009 Sundance Film Festival; History, an award-winning documentary about global water problems, which is arguably one of the most important political and environmental problems of the 21st century; and We feed the world, a documentary that focusses on world food problems.

Works on paper by Lela TomaseviÄ&#x2021;

15-27 November 2010 SULUJ Gallery Another young and talented artist, whose chosen medium of expression is handmade paper, Ms TomaseviÄ&#x2021;'s material is literally cotton, a flat base of industrial pulp for paper, to which she inserts and adds other elements. With exceptional whiteness and softness of thoughtful pieces, her works have a plea and a warning that only with full awareness of the resources of nature and necessity of recycling can we save ourselves and the environment for the future.

in addition to practical functions, they also represent and mirror the luxury of royal and aristocratic houses. The aim of the exhibition is to study the holistic view of this particular segment of the old goldsmith practices, developed under the historically tragic circumstances of the Turkish occupation of the Balkans. The exhibition presents about 100 glasses from the collections of Serbian museums and from private collections, most of which will be on public display for the first time. www.mpu.rs

Green Screen Fest

1st International Environmental Film Festival 15-17 November 2010 Sava Centre Jointly organised by the Centre for Improvement of the Environment and the Bureau for Social Research, the first international festival of environmental film, Green Screen Fest, will be held from 15 to 17 November at the Sava Centre. The programme will consist of feature-length films and shorts dealing with environmental issues, and also include creative activities that will enable all visitors to further explore issues

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Gotan Project

17 Novembar 2010 Belgrade Arena The Paris-based Latin electro group with members hailing from France, Argentina and Switzerland, stops by Belgrade first time on their world tour in support of their third studio album, Tango 3.0. We've been big fans of theirs since 2001 and have impeccable taste in music, so if you're in town on the 17th you should probably check them out. www. arenabeograd.com

November-December 2010

Culture & Events

Alexander Vać

17-26 November 2010 Singidunum Gallery The artist will exhibit ceramic artifacts - in the form of pebbles, fruit, bushings, etc - which in their sections, openings and interiors hidemany stories. The works are done in a technique called 'terra sigillata', in which different surface treatments are used. This leads to a combination of polished surfaces, which glow and have a visual effect of hardness, and those that are matte with the appearance of soft vulnerable interiors. Apart from a central composition of large format (about 2m), there will also be several other installations on the same topic.

there. In their original interpretation of Troy, the dance troupe 'Fire of Anatolia' joins the folklore of Asia Minor, the Aegean and the Balkans. Elements of folklore and traditions of the Orient - belly dancers, dervish ceremonies and enthusiastic rhythms - are interwoven with modern dance and ballet, in a virtuoso performance artists which are not only the culture of their country of origin, but the stage at which performed Troy symbolically unites East and West. www. arenabeograd.com

Project 6: Instructions for Admission Troy: A Music Spetacle

19 Novembar 2010 Belgrade Arena The world famous dance troupe "Fire of Anatolia" (Fire of Anatolia) under the creative leadership of Mustafa Erdogan will bring Homer's legendary epic of love and war live to Belgrade Arena. With over 80 actors, singers and musicians, an 8m high Trojan horse, original music by Marojice Arzen, fascinating light effects, attractive costumes and breathtaking props and scenery, the show is currently considered one of the most spectacular stage productions in the world. Homer's epic 'Iliad' from which comes the story of the war because of the beautiful Helen, Agamemnon army leader, dauntless hero Achilles and Hector to his opponent is part of the historical heritage of the world, even our cultural milieu that relies on the tradition of ancient Greece, Byzantium, Turkey and the wider region Mediterranean. In the Western Balkans these great cultures met, intertwined and assimilated with the local customs and myths of all nations and ethnic groups that lived

23 November - 4 December 2010 Gallery O3one As a point of departure for this project the artists used Croatian admission to the European Union, their ensuing negotiations, and strings of measures and directions that need to be fulfilled by both parties for that admission to take place. The artists are interested in that process which is often, and primarily, structured in the form of directions for a state legislature to follow. They are interested in the complexity of a process in which directions play the key role in communication on all levels. Except for artistic values coming out of our personal reflections, this project in its entirety carries additional zest coming out of their mutual interaction. Project 6 was founded in the year 2006, when young Croatian artists started an experiment in order to inquire about the connections between the theme, media and individual personalities. Through constant meetings the artists discuss and question their own opinions, judgments and attitudes towards art. Each artist expresses themself by referring to the works of another artist, thus becoming the subject of someone’s reference as well. The artists of Project 6 are Tea Hatadi, Zdravko Horvat, Igor Juran, Martina Miholić, Maja Rožman and Karla Šuler.

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Culture & Events Cirque du Soleil Saltimbanco

24-28 November 2010 Belgrade Arena The critically-celebrated international entertainment group Cirque du Soleil is to bring for the first time ever in Belgrade its vibrant signature production Saltimbanco. This timeless Cirque du Soleil opus will be performing for a series of exclusive shows in Belgrade from the 24th till 28th of November at the Belgrade arena. Saltimbanco is Cirque du Soleil's longest-running touring show and has performed since 1992 to wide-spread acclaim to sell-out audiences in Europe, North and South America, Australia, Japan, and New Zealand for more than 11.5 million enthusiastic fans. Classic Cirque du Soleil at its best, Saltimbanco is a thrilling and kaleidoscopic celebration of awe inspiring artistry and agility. With a cast of 50 high-caliber artists hailing from 20 different countries, Saltimbanco features breathtaking acrobatics and unbelievable athleticism during solo spotlights and epic ensembles. From the seemingly impossible balancing, jumping and spinning during the Chinese Poles

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or the Russian Swing to the gravity defying Bungees and Trapeze, the crowd pleasing Juggling and Acrobatic Bicycle, to the celebrated and very unique Clowns. Technical expertise and extravagant design are woven together by uplifting spectacular costumes, amazing lighting, humour and enchanting music and magic. Full of colour, amusement and amazement, Saltimbanco is a fun show for the whole family to enjoy. Saltimbanco -from the Italian "saltare in banco," which literally means "to jump on a bench"-explores the urban experience in all its myriad forms: the people who live there, their idiosyncrasies and likenesses, families and groups, the hustle and bustle of the street and the towering heights of skyscrapers. A signature show, it is inspired by the urban fabric of the metropolis and its colourful inhabitants. Decidedly baroque in its visual vocabulary, the show's eclectic cast of characters draws spectators into a fanciful, dreamlike world, an imaginary city where diversity is a cause for hope. www.arenabeograd.com

November-December 2010

Culture & Events 4th Science Festival

Zvonko Bogdan

25 November 2010 Sava Centre One of the best-known living singers of Balkan folk songs, Zvonko Bogdan will be performing in Belgrade for one night only in the Great Hall of the Sava Centre. www. savacentar.net.

3-5 December 2010 Various venues The main aim of the Science Festival in Belgrade is to connect and to establish communication between the public and the scientific institutions which seldom have an opportunity to get to the wider audience in order to introduce and explain the significance of the scientific accomplishments in the fields of physics, chemistry, biology, astronomy, mathematics and other areas. The biggest event of its kind in the region, last year the Festival attracted nearly 20,000 visitors, and will welcome even more this year as it expands to include three separate venues: the former KLUZ department store (Masarikova 4), the Student Cultural Centre (Kralja Milana 48) and the Gallery of the National Bank of Serbia (Nemanjina 4). A wide spectrum of presentation methods will be used in order to introduce, explain and promote the science in a way that would be equally acceptable and understandable to each and every visitor, regardless of their age. Group and school discounts can be arranged in advance. www.festivalnauke.rs

14th International Underwater Film Festival White Lies

2 December 2010 Studentski Kulturni Centar This English alternative rock band has been gaining in popularity since their release of To Lose My Life... last year, with critics drawing comparisons between them and such groups as Joy Division, Editors and Interpol. You can see them at Belgrade's grungy yet atmospheric Student Cultural Centre the first week of December. www.skc.org.rs

Society Selected

6-18 December 2010 SULUJ Gallery Organised by the gallery's manager, and noted art historian, Ivone R. Barandovski, the exhibition brings together ten winners of the Grand Prix of May from 1999-2009. Comprised mostly of graphic and industrial designers, as well as few photographers and sculptors, each artist will be represented by a banner featuring their biography and photos depicting works of their choosing. The exhibit will move on to Niš and Kragujevac later in 2011. www. galerijasuluj.org.rs

10-13 December 2010 One of Europe's most unique cultural events, the Belgrade Underwater Film Festival was first held in 1997 under the joint organisation of the Belgrade Diving Club, the Divers' Association of Yugoslavia and the French Cultural Centre. In the years since, it has grown in both size and importance, and continues to provide audiences with the opportunity to peek into the underwater world, and discover more about this fascinating environment though films, photos and meetings with professional underwater adventurers and enthusiasts. The festival also donates part of its income to Drinka Pavlovic, a local shelter for children without parental care.As in years past, the event will feature a diverse programme, which in addition to the main film contest and revue will include an underwater photography contest and exhibition, a children's drawing exhibition, and art students' poster competition and exhibition, as well as various lectures and presentations. The film contest is divided into two categories, independent and professional, with a registration deadline of 5 November, while all submission must be sent no later than 10 November and received by 15 November. See the official festival website for the complete entry criteria. www.kpa.co.rs

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Culture & Events Moscow City Ballet

7-8 December 2010 Sava Centre One of the world's foremost ballet companies comes to the Serbian capital in December, with their acclaimed performances of Swan Lake and the Nutcracker on consecutive nights in the Great Hall of the Sava Centre. Without question this is one of the must-see cultural events of the season. Founded in 1988 by distinguished Russian choreographer Victor Smirnov-Golovanov, the Moscow City Ballet is the outcome of the recent reforms in post-Soviet Russia. It is a private enterprise and is not subsidized by the government. The company's first appearance was in 1989 in Seoul, Korea. Its success outside of Russia makes it one of Russia's most extensively touring ballet companies. Since 1988, Moscow City Ballet has appeared in Belgium, Cyprus, Egypt, Holland, Hong-Kong, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Estonia, Peoples Republic of China, Philippines, Republic Korea, R.O.C. Taiwan, Singapore, United Kingdom, and, naturally, in Russia itself. Smirnov-Golovanov's own productions, as well as older versions of the classical ballets, all share a clearly-defined style, ideas and choreographic integrity, setting high performance standards. The company is renowned for the perfection of its corps de ballet in the best traditions of the Russian school of classical ballet. The company's unique style is ensured by the unceasing efforts, both in production and rehearsal, of its artistic director, Victor Smirnov-Golovanov and his wife, ballet mistress and principal teacher, Ludmila Nerubashenko. Many of the leading dancers in the company were trained by them. Admission 4000 RSD. Tickets are available at a discounted price of 4000 RSD for both performances if purchased before 15 November. www.moscowcityballet.info

Concert of the Decade

22 December 2010 Sava Centre On 22 December the Belgrade Cultural Network will bring together two exceptional artists for an event billed as happening only once per decade. The dream tandem dreams consists of guitarist Vlatko Stefanovski and violinist Stefan Milenkovi. The unique combination of guitars and violins, and the collaboration of two prominent artists is bound to both impress with their technique and also charm you with their emotions, making for an unforgettable experience for music lovers. www.savacentar.net

Dragoljub Đuričić

29 December 2010 Sava Centre Originally refused entry to the Dubrovnik Music School for lack of talent, Dragoljub Đuričić has spent the last four decades making the responsible admissions person look foolish by becoming one of the the most popular musician throughout all of the former Yugoslavia. At the end of December he'll be finishing off 2010 with a performance at the Sava Centre on the 29th, which will be his first appearance there since a sold out show in February 1999. www.savacentar.net

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November-December 2010

Culture & Events Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra

November

December

5 November 2010 Fall Cycle Conductor: Andres Mustonen Soloists: Yuri Žislin, violin Natalie Lomejko, viola Program: V. A. Mozart: Symphony no. 29 K. 201 M. Bruch: Concerto for Violin, Viola and Orchestra L. van Beethoven: Symphony no. 4

3 December 2010 Black&White cycle Conductor: Robin O‘Neill Soloist: Boris Berezovsky, piano Program: Khachaturian: Spartacus, suite no. 2 - Adagio of Spartacus and Phrygia B. Khachaturian: Piano concerto S. Rachmaninov: Symphony no. 3 op. 44 A minor

12 November 2010 Fall Cycle Conductor: Christoph-Mathias Mueller Soloist: Dimitri Ashkenazy, clarinet Program: R. Vaughan Williams: Fantasia on Talisovu topic Ž. Francaix: Concerto for Clarinet and Orchestra R. Wagner: Parsifal - excerpts

10 December 2010 Muslim New Years Cycle Conductor: Emin Güven Yaslicam Soloist: Priya Mitchell, violin Program: W. A. Mozart: The abduction from the Seraglio, overture U. C. Erkin: Köcekce F. Say: Violin concerto "1001 nights in the harem"

19 November 2010 Fall Cycle Conductor: Predrag Gosta Soloist: Jean-Luc Me, flute Program: G. F. Handel: Music for the Royal Fireworks R. HP Platz: Concerto for Flute and Orchestra Bulk G. F. Handel: Water Music - excerpts

17 December 2010 Black&White cycle Conductor: Alexander Rahbari Soloist: Elisabeth Leonskaya, piano Program: Popovic: Einstein's Dreams (commission) F. Schubert (arr. F. Liszt): Wanderer fantasy D. 760 op. 15 B. Smetana: My Fatherland - excerpts

26 November 2010 Fall Cycle Conductor: Emiliano Patara Soloist: Ajman Musakodžajeva, violin Program: F.. Rossini: Barber of Seville, Overture N. Paganini: Violin Concerto No.1 E. Villa Lobos: Bachianas Brasileras 2 and 4

24 December 2010 NY on a Gregorian calendar New Years Cycle Conductor: Stephen Gunzenhauser Soloist: Corky Siegel, harmonica Program: G. Gabrieli: Canzon XVI for Brass A. Marquez: Conga del Fuego Nuevo P. I. Tchaikovsky: Nutcracker, Suite no. 1, op. 71A W. Russo: Street Music

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Culture & Events Art galleries

25. maj Gallery Botićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 85. 4Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Arte Galerija C-2, Svetogorska 29, tel. (+381) 11 324 39 96, www.arte.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00 Artget C-2, Trg Republike 5/I, tel. (+381) 11 262 29 26, www.kcb.co.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Beograd Gallery B-2, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. (+381) 11 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Cvijeta Zuzorić Art Pavilion C-1, Kalemegdan 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 15 85, www.ulus-art.org 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Diplomatic club Gallery Bulevar oslobođenja 317, tel. (+381) 11 309 50 00. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00 Euroart Gallery C-2, Makedonska 30 (Eurocentar), tel. (+381) 11 337 33 74. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun FLU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 263 06 35. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun Belgrade City Library Gallery C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 11. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Gallery 212 C-2, Vlajkovićeva 25, tel. (+381) 11 337 32 99, www.galerija212.co.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Grafički kolektiv Gallery C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. (+381) 11 262 77 85, www.grafickikolektiv.org 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Haos C-2, Dositejeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 97, www. gallerychaos.com. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Gallery C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 73, www.kolarac.rs 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun KCB Art Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 29 26, www.kcb.org.rs 4Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Magacin C-2, Kraljevića Marka 4, www.domomladine. org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00 New Moment Gallery C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92, www.newmoment.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 O3one Gallery C-2, Andrićev venac 12, tel. (+381) 11 323 87 89, www.o3one.rs 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Progres Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 10, tel. (+381) 11 218 26 26. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Remont C-2, Makedonska 5/III, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 06, www.remont.net 4Open 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun RTS Gallery C-2, Takovska 10, (+381) 11 321 18 33. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art C-1, Pariska 14, tel. (+381) 11 263 09 40, www.msub.org. rs. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue SANU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 334 24 00, www.sanu.ac.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun Singidunum Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. (+381) 11 218 53 23, www.ulupuds.org.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun SKC Gallery C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 68, www.skc.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Stara Kapetanija Gallery, Kej oslobođenja 8 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 261 20 23. 4Open 11:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon SULUJ Gallery C-2, Terazije 26/II, tel. (+381) 11 268 57 80, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 18:00, belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun ULUS Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. (+381) 11 262 31 28, www.ulus-art.org 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Zvono Gallery C-1, Višnjićeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 262 52 43, www.galerijazvono.org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun

Cinemas

Akademija 28 C-3, Nemanjina 28, tel. (+381) 11 361 60 20

DKC C-2, Kolarčeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 74 Dom sindikata C-2, Dečanska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49

Jadran 2K DPL C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11

664 20 57 Kolosej B-2, Ušće shopping center, tel. (+381) 11 285 44 95 Museum Art cinema C-1, Uzun Mirkova 2, tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88 Museum of Yugoslav Film Archives C-2, Kosovska 11, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50 Palas Šumadija, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 355 54 65 Roda cineplex, Požeška 83a, tel. (+381) 11 254 52 60 Ster cineplex, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 220 34 00 Tuckwood Cineplex C-2, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. (+381) 11 323 65 17

Catch a flick at the Tuckwood Cinema

November-December 2010

Culture & Events Venues Artget gallery C-2, Trg Republike 5 Belgrade Arena A-2, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića

The modern Madlenianuim Opera and Theatre complex

Theatres

Atelje 212 (drama, comedy) C-2, Svetogorska 21, tel. (+381) 11 324 73 42, www.atelje212.rs BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre (drama) D -3, Mileševska 64a, tel. (+381) 11 283 70 00, www. bdp.rs Bitef Theatre (modern dance) C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 11 322 06 08, www.bitef.rs Boško Buha Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11 263 28 55, www.boskobuha.rs Dadov (youth and alternative theatre) C-2, Desanke Maksimović 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 43, www.dadov. rs Duško Radović (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Aberdareva 1, tel. (+381) 11 323 20 72, www. malopozoriste.co.rs JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre (drama) C-3, Kralja Milana 50, tel. (+381) 11 306 19 00, www.jdp.co.rs Madlenianum Opera and Theatre (opera, ballet, drama), Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 25 33, www.madlenianum.rs National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C -2, Francuska 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 09 46, www. narodnopozoriste.co.rs Pinokio (children’s puppet theatre), Karađorđeva 9 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 269 17 15, www.ptpinokio. com Puž (children’s theatre) D-3, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. (+381) 11 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com Slavija Theatre (comedy) C-3, Svetog Save 16, tel. (+381) 11 243 69 95, www.pozoriste-slavija.co.rs Tera z ije Theatre (mu sica l, b a llet) C -2 , Tr g Nikole Pašića 3, tel. (+381) 11 330 26 50, www. pozoristeterazije.com Zvezdara Theatre (drama, comedy), Milana Rakića 38; Tel: (+381) 11 241 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.rs

58, tel. (+381) 11 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd. com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, www.sajam.co.rs Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra C -2, Studentski trg 11, tel. (+381) 11 328 29 77, www.bgf.co.rs Belgrade Public Bath Cara Dušana 45 Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C-2, Makedonska 22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www. domomladine.org Dom sindikata C-2, Dečanska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49 Expo XXI Centre A-2, Španskih boraca 74A, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Guarneriuss C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. (+381) 11 334 52 37, www.guarnerius.rs KCB Art gallery Knez Mihailova 6 Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C -2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 73, www. kolarac.rs KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. (+381) 11 305 50 70 Legacy House C-2, Knez Mihailova 46 Magacin Kraljevića Marka 4 New Belgrade Sport Hall Pariske komune 20 Pionir Sports Centre D-2, Čarlija Čaplina 39 Rex Cultural Centr e C-1, Jevrejska 16, tel. (+381) 11 328 45 34, www.rex.b92.net Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 60, www.savacentar.com SKC (Student Cultural Centre) C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 360 20 11, www.skc.org.rs Tašmajdan Stadium C-2, Beogradska 71 The 25th Maj museum Botićeva 6

Ticket agents Bilet servis C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. (+381) 11

303 33 11, www.biletservis.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 20:00, Closed Sun. Eventim C-2, Topliči venac 19-21, tel. (+381) 11 328 10 25, www.eventim-yu.com. 4Open 08:00 21:00, Saturday 10:30 - 18:00, Closed Sun. Ticketline C-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music Store), tel. (+381) 11 203 05 70, www.ticketline. co.rs. 4Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Belgrade Arena

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Belgrade could easily do with more hotels, in all the categories. During big international events there's every chance that you won't be able to find any sort of accommodation, not for love nor money. If luxury is what you're looking for, there are a number of hotels that have been built over the past ten years and are well worth the prices they demand. If your budget is somewhat limited you can always get a nice, cheap cabin in a floating hostel moored off the Danube. Just imagine waking up with a magnificient view of the river island that is the natural habitat for 196 species of bird. It might be advisable to be wary of some of the older hotels, where time seems to have halted in the late 80s. But sometimes they too possess a charm all of their own...

Cream of the crop

Crystal C-3, Internacionalnih Brigada 9, tel. (+381)

11 71 51 000, fax (+381) 11 71 51 005, info@ crystalhotel.rs, www.crystalhotel.rs. One of Belgrade's new ultra-modern business hotels, few other accommodation options in town can rival Crystal in terms of either comfort or price. Located in the leafy Neimar neighbourhood just south of Slavija Square and the imposing St Sava Temple, it manages to offer a relaxing atmosphere as well as easy access to the city's main sites, business centres and the road to the airport. Recommended for those who can afford it.444 rooms (35 doubles €165, 9 suites €215-275). PHALKRhhhh

shooting ranges for clay targets in Europe, tennis courts, a sporting and hunting equipment shop, a shooting school, as well as dog kennels too. 417 rooms and 10 suites (singles €120-150, doubles €150-180, junior suite €220, superior suite €240). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PTRFKD6AHLGChhhhh

Villa Jelena Generala Sturma 1a, tel. (+381) 11 30 66 521, (+381) 11 36 70 575, info@vila-jelena.com, www. vila-jelena.com. Located in a quiet leafy neighbourhood just south of the city centre, the newly opened Villa Jelen is unlike any other Belgrade. Offering ten luxurious rooms, as well as full conference and events facilities that can accommodate up to 500 guests, the premises also include two restaurants and a fitness centre. Each exquisitely decorated suite is individually designed and named after various artists and composers. Special offers are available for conference, weekend and wedding stays. 410 rooms (premium €200, deluxe €250, superior €270). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PAHFLK Zlatnik Dobanovačka 95, tel. (+381) 11 316 75 11, fax (+381) 11 316 72 35, office@hotelzlatnik.com, www. hotelzlatnik.com. Small and oozing with comfort, this hotel is located 7km from the city centre, in a peaceful street in Zemun. The hotel was built as an extension to a well-known restaurant which has some of the best cuisine in town. It is renowned for its high-quality service and is ideal for business people seeking a peaceful rest far from the hustle and bustle of city life. 437 rooms and 4 suites (singles €115-146, doubles €156-170, junior suite €170-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLGhhhhh

Hyatt Regency B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381)

11 301 12 34, fax (+381) 11 311 22 34, belgrade. regency@hyatt.com, www.belgrade.regency.hyatt. com. Situated between the Sava Congress Centre and Ušće Business Centre, this is the most luxurious hotel in Belgrade, with efficient and professional service, ideal for all types of meetings and events. The Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center is the perfect environment for guests to relax, enjoy being pampered and finding a peaceful moment away from tension and stress. The Tea House is an exclusive and favorite Belgrade meeting spot, offering a cosy and relaxed atmosphere for both business and private meetings. 4302 rooms and suites (rooms €187337, executive suite €327-477, diplomatic suite €1,1871337, presidential suite €1,487-1637). Prices include breakfast (buffet). VAT and tourist tax not included. PTR FKDAHULGChhhhh

President Zrenjaninski put 170, tel.(+381) 11 207

52 00, fax (+381) 11 207 52 60, prodaja@presidentbelgrade.com, www.president-belgrade.com. A small, lavishly furnished hotel, located in the Kovilovo Sports Centre, 12km from the centre of the city. Far from any city noise, the compound stretches over 26 hectares of park land and is surrounded by a 100 hectare woodland area which is ideal for bird-watching. The compound includes one of the best

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

The immaculate pool room at Villa Jelena

November-December 2010

Where to stay real estate on Belgrade's famous pedestrian street Knez Mihailova. In addition to the standard four-star amenities, the site boasts a sauna and small fitness centre, as well as a trendy restaurant and lounge bar located on the first floor. The rooms offer great views of the action below, with the added benefit of soundproof windows to guarantee a quiet night's sleep. Recommended. 455 rooms (singles €130, doubles €145). Special opening prices of €99/114 are available until 13 Sept 2010. PAHFKLDRhhhh

Best Western M Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel.

(+381) 11 309 04 01, fax (+381) 11 309 05 01, office@hotel-m.com, www.hotel-m.com. The hotel is in a rather peaceful part of town, in a forest park area near the highway and the Red Star and Partizan football stadiums, 15 minutes by car from the city centre. It is renowned for its good service, which means that the customers are always willing to come back for more. As well as attracting business people, this hotel has also become a favourite place for athletes participating in sports events in Belgrade. Most of the rooms have a view of the woodland area. 4151 rooms, 21 premier rooms and 8 suites (singles €100-152, doubles €125-172, suites €170-215). PTRKAHUGhhhh

Best Western Šumadija Šumadijski trg 8, tel. (+381)

Upmarket

Balkan C-2, Prizrenska 2, tel. (+381) 11 363 60 00, fax

(+381) 11 268 75 81, rezervacije@balkanhotel.net, www. balkanhotel.net. Constructed in 1935 and recently renovated, it is located on Terazije Square, in the heart of the city. The rooms are clean, if a little cramped and basic, but they boast an exceptional view of the busy city centre. The pleasant ground floor level Orient Express restaurant features international specialities from Paris ti Istanbul, with unique interior design reflecting the Orient Express era. 479 rooms and 8 suites (singles €130-180, doubles €145-230, suites €210-230). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAGhhhh

Balkan Hotel Garni Požeška 67 A, tel. (+381) 11 360 02 00, fax: (+381) 11 355 31 33, reservations@ balkangarni.rs, www.balkangarni.rs. Part of the 'Balkan' chain of hotels, the Garni is a new addition to the capital's hospitality scene and is located just across the way from the Belgrade Fair. It's not the easiest hotel in the city to find as it is within the confines of a shopping centre and street signs helping you get there are few and far between. Despite being in a busy part of the city, the rooms are sound proofed from the noise of the traffic outside. The hotel has a total of 24 rooms of various types and 12 have spacious balconies. All are equipped with free Wi-Fi internet connections, LCD televisions, air conditioners, telephones, safes, hair dryers, bathrobes and other add-ons.The hotel also offers free 24 hour shuttle bus service to and from the airport.421 rooms and 3 suites (singles €60, doubles €75, suites €110). Prices include VAT and breakfast.AHPRKGhhhh Belgrade Art Hotel C-2, Knez Mihailova 27, tel. (+381) 11 3312 000, fax. (+381) 11 3312 099, info@ belgradearthotel.com, www.belgradearthotel.com. This recently-opened business hotel occupies some prime Belgrade In Your Pocket

11 305 41 00, fax: 355 43 68, office@hotelsumadija. com, www.hotelsumadija.com. Located in the Banovo Brdo section of the city, 8km from the city centre and 2km from the Belgrade fairgrounds, it is in close proximity to both the Ada Ciganlija and Košutnjak recreational areas. The service is excellent, and the hotel has recently been renovated and adapted to suit the needs of business people. The rooms are comfortable and decorated in pastel colours. 497 rooms and 6 suites (singles €115-120, doubles €135, suites €160). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKADHGhhhh

Continental B-2, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. (+381)

11 220 42 04, fax (+381) 11 311 14 02, www. continentalhotelbeograd.com. Situated in New Belgrade and attached to the Sava Congress Centre, this spacious hotel is only a five minute drive from the city centre. It belonged to the Intercontinental Hotel chain until recently. The hotel lobby is as big as a terminal in a small airport, with rooms that are large but decorated in a style that must have seemed the height of fashion in the 1980s. There is a banquet hall and a health club with a swimming pool, sauna, and fitness area. The staff are very responsive to customers’ needs.4415 rooms and 30 suites (singles € 140-160, doubles €150-170, suites €230-600). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKD6AHULGChhhhh

Evropa C-2, Sremska 1, tel. (+381) 11 362 6017, www.hotelevropa.rs. Situated in the very heart of the city centre, the unmistakable façade of the Hotel Evropa has been a Belgrade landmark for over a century, and tells the story of its charm and metropolitan spirit. Entering the grand building is akin to crossing a threshold to a different world, where comfort and beauty, tradition and modernity, design and functionality, excellent service and the newest technology are all paramount. Guests can use the spa centre, and most services are included in the basic price. An on-site conference room is also available for business meeting or other events. 49 suites (€220-330). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKL6HDUGhhhh

Excelsior C-2, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 13 81, recepcija@hotrlexcelsior.rs, www.hotelexcelsior. rs. Located in the city centre, near the Parliament, the belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Excelsior first opened in 1924. The rooms are also rented out for day use.Make sure you get a room with a view of the street and the Pionirski park. 464 rooms (singles €75, doubles €95, superior room €85-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PKARhhh

Holiday Inn A-2, Španskih boraca 74, tel. (+381) 11

310 00 00, fax (+381) 11 310 01 00, www.holidayinn. com. A new, modern hotel, opened in 2007 and positioned next to the railway tracks in a section of New Belgrade that is still under construction, it is ideal for people on business since it has a business centre, 14 meeting and conference rooms, and the Expo XXI International Centre is adjacent to the hotel. 4140 rooms (singles €180, doubles €205, 1 suite €250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRFKD6AHULGhhhh

In A-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. (+381) 11 310 53 00, fax (+381) 11 310 53 51, frontoffice@ inhotel-belgrade.rs, www.inhotel-belgrade.rs. A relatively new hotel opened in 2006 and located right off the main thoroughfare in close proximity to the Belgrade Arena. The rooms are spacious, decorated in light colours and with modern furniture. An interesting feature is the glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the room. The Rooftop Bar and Lounge is an attractive spot for enjoying cocktails in the sun. The hotel is perfect for business people because it includes conference rooms and a business centre, as well as a fitness centre with a relaxation massage option. 4187 rooms and 28 suites (90 singles €165, 66 doubles €185, suites €220-290). PRFKD6AULGhhhh Le Petit Piaf C-2, Skadarska 34, tel. (+381) 11 303 52 52, fax (+381) 11 303 53 53, office@petitpiaf.com, belgrade.inyourpocket.com

www.petitpiaf.com. Founded in 2004, this is located in the heart of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, near the city centre. The rooms are light and clean and furnished in a modern style. It also comes with a French restaurant. 413 rooms and 5 junior suites (6 twin bed rooms €100, doubles €120, suites €140). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-lacarte. PRKAGhhh

Life Design Hotel C-2, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11

362 60 90, www.lifedesignhotel.rs. This contemporarily devised design hotel is situated in the very heart of the city. Newly built and designed in a modern fashion, the hotel has an elegant architectural plan as well as numerous services all the services expected of a four-star hotel. Located in the commercial and cultural centre of the city, it is popular with both business travellers and tourists. The décor is subtle and sophisticated, with lots of warm colours and aesthetic diversity. Highly recommended. 446 rooms and 6 suites (singles €99-160, doubles €129160, suites €169-270). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRLDGhhhh

Majestic C-2, Obilićev venac 28, tel. (+381) 11 328 57 77, fax (+381) 11 328 49 95, office@majestic. rs, www.majestic.rs. Established in 1937, this small, comfortable hotel has a tradition of professional, highquality service. Situated in the city centre, directly off Knez Mihailova Street, it is surrounded by restaurants and cafés and is suitable for both tourists and business people. The rooms are clean, but old-fashioned. This hotel takes great pride in its King Suite, as it holds a Certificate of Approval for quality management and the HACCP system. 487 rooms and 6 suites (singles €70-105, doubles €130, suites €155-205). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLGhhhh November-December 2010

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Moskva C-2, Balkanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 268 62 55, fax (+381) 11 268 83 89, info@hotelmoskva.rs, www. hotelmoskva.rs. This elegant hotel on Terazije Square is one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building was constructed in 1907 and is now a protected building. The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture and an impressive collection of paintings. It is also the only hotel outside Russia which bears the name 'Moscow'. For many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, and some of the famous cakes.4 120 rooms and 6 suites (singles €90, doubles €129, suites €297). Prices include VAT and English breakfast. PTRKALGhhhh Mr. President C-2, Karađorđeva 75, tel. (+381) 11

360 22 22, www.hotelmrpresident.com. A new, recentlyopened hotel, situated in a modern glass building across from the central railway and bus stations, it's already well-known for its portraits of famous world statesmen and dictators in each room. The interior design of the hotel is somewhat exaggerated and accented by colourful, neon lighting. The rooms are clean and furnished in a modern style, but are somewhat lacking in daylight.450 rooms and 11 suites (singles €139, doubles €169, suites €249-444). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKALGhhhh

Palace C-2, Topličin venac 23, tel. (+381) 11 218 55

85, fax (+381) 11 218 44 58, office@palacehotel.co.rs, www.palacehotel.co.rs. Located in a side street in the city centre, this hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan.Originally established In 1923, Palace has numerous loyal guests who would rather not stay in any other hotel. In past few years all the rooms and apartments have been completely renovated. Since it is an integral part of a catering school, a number of students conduct their work experience in the hotel.The restaurant on the very top floor has a pleasant view of the city. 471 rooms and 15 suites (singles €90, doubles €112-135,

The four-star Hotel Palace suites €178). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhhh

Prestige B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. (+381) 11 305 74 65, info@hotelprestige.rs, www.hotelprestige. rs. An elegant hotel close to the city centre, not far from Belgrade Fair and Sava Lake, this hotel is ideal for business guests and sportsmen. The completely renovated 50 year old restaurant "Bask" offers national cuisine, vegeterian dishes and meals for diabetics. Parking is free of charge, and guests have access to the hotel's and weight room fitness centre adapted for many different sports (basketball, volleyball, handball or football). 430 rooms, 4 suites (singles €75-90, doubles €85-125, suites €111-239). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRFKHUGLhhhh Slavija Lux C-3, Svetog Save 2, tel. (+381) 11 244

11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, rezervacija_lux@ slavijahotel.com, www.slavijahotel.com. Housed in a contemporary building on Slavija square, the biggest intersection in the city and only 1 km from the city centre and the Central Railway Station. The rooms are clean but rather tastelessly decorated in the style of the 1980’s (at the risk of repeating ourselves, let us say again that this is a very frequent occurrence when it comes to hotels awaiting privatisation). The Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor has a nice view of the city. 472 rooms and 12 suites (singles €70-88, doubles €90-100, suites €111-128). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). POTRFKALGhhhh

The pleasant terrace café at Hotel Zira

Belgrade In Your Pocket

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Townhouse 27 C-2 Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 29 00, www.townhouse27.com. A new and exclusive boutique hotel in the old town, a few steps away from Republic Square and Knez Mihailova Street. Characterised by modern architecture and minimalist interior design, each room has high-speed Internet, an espresso machine and a Bang&Olufsen flat screen TV. All the rooms are non-smoking. The suites will satisfy various indulgences and the Presidential Suite is furnished with a Jacuzzi. There is also an option to merge two units into one large family apartment. Garage and car wash are available. 411 rooms and 9 suites (singles €133-190, doubles €163-220). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AHPRK6Ghhhh Zira Ruzveltova 35 D-2, tel. (+381) 11 331 48 00, fax (+381) 11 331 48 01, www.zirahotels.com. The rooms in this hotel are designed in a contemporary style and equipped with the latest technology. The staff members are young and eager to prove themselves and the food in the restaurant is prepared by an experienced Italian chef. The hotel has a spacious underground garage with direct access to the Zira Shopping Mall and a large supermarket. Walks to the centre of the city are recommended only to the very enthusiastic - others will have to rely on taxis. 4116 rooms and 8 suites (doubles €165). Price includes breakfast (English). VAT not included. PRGFLKAUhhh

Mid-range

Bali Paradizo Ugrinovački Put 72, Zemun, tel. (+381)

11 3170 860, fax (+381) 11 3170 925, www. bali.rs, hotel@bali.rs. This Southeast Asian-themed hotel only opened its doors back in April, making it one of the newest accommodation options in town. Located in Zemun, some 20 minutes Northwest of the city centre by car, it's a bit removed from the action but its modern spa and fitness facilities coupled with its calming Indonesian-inspired décor practically guarantee a relaxing stay. For those without their own transporation, free transfers are provided to and from the airport, bus and railway stations. 420 rooms (singles €60-95, doubles €95, apartments €95-190).APLFKR Dhhh

rooms are decent and clean and will appeal to those who like flowered patterns on chairs and armchairs. 24 hr room service. The rooms can also be rented out for daytime rest. 429 rooms and 2 suites (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRKGHLhh

Orašac Luke Vojvodića 25n, tel. (+381) 11 256 10 90, www.hotelorasac.co.rs. A small hotel in the suburbs, some 12 km away from the centre of the city (a 20-30min. taxi ride from the centre, depending on the time of the day). The Košutnjak forest park is close by, with its many attractions, not least the great nature walks and sports facilities. The rooms are comfortable and well-furnished. 47 rooms and 6 suites (singles/doubles €76, suites €112). Price includes VAT and breakfast. Simboli: APRKLG6Hhhh Park C-3, Njegoševa 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 364 03 83, fax 364 03 93, www.hotelparkbeograd.rs. A hotel right smack in the centre of the city, this is a well-equipped place with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. One key feature is the in-house gym which can be used free-of-charge and massages and relaxation in the Jacuzzi can be enjoyed at discounted rates. The restaurant serves local and international cuisine and also lays on business lunches, cocktail parties, banquets and wedding receptions. 4128 rooms (singles €40-65, doubles €70-90, triples €105-125, suites €90-100). Prices include breakfast. APRKHLhhh

Elegance Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel. (+381) 11 207 50

00, fax (+381) 11 207 50 05, office@hotelelegance. rs, www.hotelelegance.rs. A new hotel catering to business people, it provides a satisfactory alternative to the overbooked downtown hotels. Elegance is situated on the outskirts of Belgrade, 6km north of the city centre, across the Danube and about 15-20 minutes by taxi provided there are no bottlenecks on the bridge. The rooms are well-furnished and simply designed. 440 rooms and 6 suites (singles €36, doubles €72, suites €100). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRKLGHFhhh

Kasina C-2, Terazije 25, tel. (+381) 11 323 55 74, fax

(+381) 11 323 82 57. One of the oldest hotels in town, located in the very centre. The interior desperately needs restoration but is nevertheless clean. You can chose between rooms with a good view of the street and quieter rooms in the back section of the hotel. The rooms that have been renovated are decent. The elevator is not for those who fear confined spaces. There is a pub on the ground floor, where they serve home-brewed draught beer. 497 rooms and 5 suites (singles €42-80, doubles €81-102, suites €118-127). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKhhh

Lav Cara Dušana 240, tel. (+381) 11 316 32 89, fax

(+381) 11 316 26 48, www.hotellav.co.rs. A small hotel on the outskirts of Zemun, you will need to take public transport for 20 minutes to get to the city centre. The

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November-December 2010

Where to stay Rex C-3, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361 18 62, fax 361 29

65, www.hotelrex-belgrade.com. A small hotel in a noisy street near the train station. Most of the rooms have recently been renovated and offer an adequate level of comfort for the price you pay. The beds are comfortable, the rooms clean and the staff friendly. There is a supermarket nearby and one of the most popular night clubs in the city is just across the street from the hotel. 492 rooms (singles €70, doubles €90, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APKHLhhh

Skala Bežanijska 3, tel. 307 50 32, www.hotelskala.

rs. Located in a beautiful old house in the centre of Zemun, which is a 15 minute drive from the city centre. The rooms are nice and cosy, and the staff are friendly. The spacious hotel restaurant, known for its attractive ambiance, frequently hosts weddings and other festive events. 414 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €86, suites €96). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAhhh

Slodes Borska 92f, tel. (+381) 11 305 55 18, www. hotelslodes.com. A new hotel opened at the end of 2006 and housed in an unseemly building located 8km from the city centre. Though the rooms are not very large or tastefully decorated, they are nevertheless clean and some of them have a jacuzzi. This is the ideal hotel for the sporty, since there is a large sports hall situated right next to the hotel, which is available to the hotel’s guests. Rooms for daytime use only are also available until 18:00 for €30. 424 rooms and 2 suites (singles €50-80, doubles €70-100, suites €119). PRFKALGhhh Srbija Ustanička 137c, tel. (+381) 11 289 04 04, fax (+381) 11 289 24 62, office@hotelsrbija.com, www. hotelsrbija.com. Set in an 18-storey concrete building

close to the motorway and 6km from the city centre, most of the rooms in this hotel have recently been renovated and equipped with modern - yet not overly attractive - furniture. Some single bedrooms have no air conditioning. The hotel is frequently visited by large groups of tourists and sports teams. 4233 rooms and 13 suites (singles €47-60, doubles €66, suites €89-115). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTKALGhhh

Budget

BG City Hotel C-2, Savski Trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 66

44 055, bgcityhotel@yahoo.com, www.bgcityhotel. com. Freshly renovated at the end of 2009 and located on the same central square as the main train station, BG City is one of the best value options in the entire city. Housed in a beautiful neo-renaissance building with high ceilings and large rooms, all of the furnishings are new and three-star amenities come standard in every room. Guarded parking is also available, but it's limited so make sure to reserve a space in advance. 447 rooms (singles €36-43, doubles €55-63, suites €63-87). PHALROhhh

Bristol C-2, Karađorđeva 50, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 00, fax (+381) 11 303 71 61. Located right next to the arrivals platform of the central bus station, housed in a beautiful 1912 building. The hotel is run by an army agency which probably explains why, in spite of the fact that the hotel has not been renovated for at least 30 years, the rooms are clean and neat and period furniture is reasonably preserved. If you don’t mind the oversized antediluvian TV boxes and the noise generated during the day by the bus station and heavy traffic, you will get very decent accommodation for little outlay. The third floor houses the recently renovated 'Gold Suite’ which is not available for hire. Rockefeller stayed there in the twenties, and his son in the seventies, so it seems that this luxury suite is kept for the Rockefeller family in case they decide to revisit Belgrade.449 rooms and 5 suites (singles €28-39, doubles €43, triples €61, suites €61). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AKRhh N Bilećka 57, tel. (+381) 11 397 21 83, office@hotel-n. rs, www.hotel-n.rs. Opened in 1996, it is situated in a residential neighbourhood, 20 minutes by car from the centre of the city. Although the hotel is somewhat remote part of the city, the rooms are decent and furnished in a modern style. Holders of the Euro26 youth card are entitled to a 50 per cent discount. 4111 rooms (singles €31-62, doubles €68-85). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhh Prag C-2, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. (+381) 11 321 44 44, fax (+381) 11 361 26 91, hotelprag@sezampro. rs, www.hotelprag.co.rs. Housed in a protected building that dates from 1929, this hotel is excellently located given that it is only 5 minutes away from the central railway and bus stations and only two minutes away from the very heart of the city. Key facilities in the place - such as the reception area and restaurant - have been renovated recently and the rooms have also been given face-lifts. The staff are friendly and ready to respond to any queries and concerns and a rooms are equipped with all the modern amenities guests can expect from 21st century hotel. 482 rooms (singles €79-92, doubles €106, triples €117-129, suites €157-192). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAGHhhh Royal C-1, Kralja Petra 56, tel. (+381) 11 263 42 22, fax (+381) 11 262 64 59, www.hotelroyal.rs. This is the oldest functioning hotel in the city, and dates back to 1886,

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Where to stay

Trim Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. (+381) 11 354 06 69,

office@trim.org.rs, www.trimhotel.rs. Situated in the Košutnjak forest park area, 9km from the centre and far from any city noise. Most of the small but clean and cosy rooms have a view of the park. 423 rooms and 1 suite (singles €35, doubles €57, suite €63). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAHLhh

Guest houses

Bed & breakfast Granžan Sinđelićeva 6, (+381) 11 261 34 23, info@bedandbreakfastbelgrade.com, www. bedandbreakfastbelgrade.com. Very close to Gardoš, this serene retreat is a family house with a beautiful view over the Danube. The owners offer bed and breakfast in 3 luxurious rooms with art decor and a bathroom. A cafe gallery on the ground floor and the quiet surroundings are ideal for anyone looking for peace and quiet. 43 rooms ( doubles €60, single use €50). Price include VAT and breakfast. ARG

with its most recent renovation being 1973. It is near to both the city centre and Kalemegdan. The rooms are clean but fairly basic, and some do not have air conditioning. The hotel is known for its inexpensive but quality restaurant which is open around the clock. Its small shop and Internet café are also open around the clock. 4105 rooms and 15 suites (singles €30-38, doubles €40-55, suites €72). Prices include VAT and continental breakfast. PKAGhhh

Slavija C-3, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, www.slavijahotel.com. Also known as Slavija 2 or Slavija B. Certainly not among the best hotels in town. The service is not as bad as the place itself, literally falling apart and waiting for a new owner to renovate it. Most hostels will offer much better accommodation. On the upside you will probably be able to find a room here when all the other hotels are full, given its excellent location close to the centre of the city. The Jat Airways shuttle bus service to the airport departs in front of the hotel, garage. 4161 rooms and 12 suites (singles €34, doubles €47, suites €69). Price includes VAT and breakfast. AHKhh Taš C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11 324 35 07,

info@hotel-tas.com, www.hotel-tas.com. A smallish hotel, with all its walls painted blue and located in the Tašmajdan sports centre near the centre of the city. Rooms for daytime use only are available until 18:00 for the price of €11-17. 415 rooms and 2 suites (singles €32, doubles €45, suites €65). Prices include VAT and break fast. PKAhh

City Code C-2, Dobračina 26, tel. (+381) 11 328 85 00, www.hotelcitycode.com. Luxury apartments with a contemporary interior, in close proximity to the city centre. Also in the vicinity is Stahinjića Bana Street, famous for its numerous bars and restaurants. Discrete service and 24hr room service as well. The street these apartments are located on is not very busy or noisy, except for when trolleybuses pass by on their way to the garage. 46 rooms (singles €100, doubles €120). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRG Forever C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 44, tel. (+381) 11 328

27 81, (+381) 60 328 27 81, info@hostel-forever.com, www. hostel-forever.com. Located in a protected early 20th century building that has been completely renovated inside, the 'hostel' more appropriately fits the description of a budget hotel, as the rooms are mostly doubles and resemble small apartments with en suite bathrooms and mini-kitchens. Within easy walking distance of all the city centre's main sights, it's one of the best values for money in Belgrade. 415 rooms (€15-35 per person, per night). PJAR

Queen's Apartments C -2, Đure Daničića 13,

tel. (+381) 11 322 88 40, fax 334 77 94, office@ queensapartments.rs, www.queensapartments.rs. Located in a house dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, not far from the city centre. The apartments are quite spacious (120 m2) and well-equipped and include a kitchen and a jacuzzi. A pleasant restaurant, the Pogođena Patka, is located on the ground level. Concierge service. 42 suites (singles €150, doubles €200, four person €300). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKA

Rezime Residence Apartments C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. (+381) 11 262 91 81, fax (+381) 11 334 88 37, rezime@sbb.rs, www.rezimeapartments. com. Perfect choice for anyone looking for accommodation

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November-December 2010

Where to stay in a quiet street in the downtown area. Housed in an authentic building which is protected as a cultural heritage site, RR offers elegantly furnished apartments (35-60m2). There is a public garage within walking distance from the hotel and Knez Mihajlova Street is also nearby. This place is suitable for anyone requiring peace and quiet, since the entrance to the building is only for the hotel’s guests. 410 suites (€115, 135, 150), prices include VAT, city tax and breakfast a la carte for one, with a €10 (breakfast) and €1,25/ per day (city tax) surcharge for the second person. APR

Travelling Actor C-2, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel.

(+381) 11 323 41 56, www.travellingactor.rs. If you take a right turn after entering through the old wooden door, you will be led to another nondescript door at the very end of the hallway, where you will find rooms for rent. Though not very large, each of these wonderfully comfortable rooms includes cable TV, a mini-bar and a modern bathroom. Some of the rooms have a view of Skadarlija - the vintage street packed with restaurants and galleries. The friendly staff will adapt check-in/check-out times to suit customers’ needs. The building’s ground level harbours a tiny restaurant with checked tablecloths, and featuring Serbian and Italian specialties. 45 rooms (singles €60-70, doubles €88-98, suites €188). PRA

Villa Belvedere Dr. Nedeljka Ercegovca 39, tel.

(+381) 11 316 04 33, www.villabelvedere.rs. Ideal for businessman and the anyone wanting to escape from the bustle outside. This hotel, with its accompanying luxurious apartments is well away from the city noise and close to the Danube and the airport. Villa has a large yard, parking space and garages, video surveillance, restaurant. Every apartment is equipped with a LCD TV, mini bar, air conditioning, telephone line, Wi-Fi, balcony and

a breathtaking view over Belgrade.4 5 apartments (singles €100, doubles € 130, triples € 160). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APKGL6

Villa Forest Majevička 2m, (+381) 11 319 63 24, www. gh-forest.com. A new guest house, 7 km away from both the city centre and airport, very close to the motorway, this is ideal for business travellers because it offers a conference room for meetings with all the appropriate technical equipment (seating up to 20 people). Being awakened by birds from the surrounding park is a fine experience here. The rooms are nicely decorated with modern furniture, all with a direct telephone line and bathrooms that meet high standards. 418 rooms and 6 suites (singles €57, doubles € 69 – 73, suite € 89) APKHL Villa Manjež B-2, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. (+381)

11 362 11 11, fax. (+381) 11 362 11 11, office@ manjez.rs, www.manjez.rs. A recently built villa, related to a famous and one of Belgrade’s oldest national restaurants, Manjež offers tranquility in the city centre, though you will not be impressed by the view. The rooms offer traditional decor and modern equipment. If you suddenly feel hungry, room service offers real restaurant food. 44 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €75, suites €85). Prices include VAT, breakfast and resident tax are not included. APGR

Villa Marija Debarska 12, tel. (+381) 244 84 84,

vilabgd@vila-marijabgd.com, www.vila-marijabgd. com. Located in a peaceful, residential neighbourhood just a few kilometres from the city centre, this hotel has comfortable and well-equipped rooms. The guests may use the common living room, the well-equipped kitchen, as well as the spacious terrace providing an excellent setting for BBQ. 410 rooms (singles €80, doubles €80). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRALG

Villa Nevenka Luke Vojvodića 24, tel. (+381) 305

65 17, info@villa-nevenka.com, www.villa-nevenka. com. A recently built villa located on top of Košutnjak hill, offering tastefully decorated rooms. The villa is in the forest, not far away from the outdoor swimming pools of the Košutnjak Sports Centre, sports facilities and a trim trail. A few kilometres’ distance from the city centre should not present a problem to those who crave a restful sleep after a long day of exploring the city. 420 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €100) Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRLG

Villa Kalemegdan C-1, Strahinjića Bana 7, tel. (+381) 11 263 78 56, fax (+381) 11 218 55 86, reservation@ villakalemegdan.com, www.villakalemegdan.com. Offers wonderfully decorated luxury suites, situated in the immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan park, in a peaceful section of a street famous for its numerous cafés and restaurants. Apart from the standard bathroom, the Royal Suite also has a jacuzzi. 46 suites (singles €100, doubles €125). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRAL

Vila Terazije is one of the best values in town

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Vila Terazije C-2, Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 11 36 19 116, fax. (+381) 11 36 10 100, info@vilaterazije.rs, info@vilaterazije.rs, v. The location doesn't get any better than this, and neither does the value. A small budget hotel situated right on Terazije Square, the service and amenities are comparable to places that are twice as expensive. Lots of dark wood and faux-antique furnishings make for a relaxing atmospheric stay. It's definitely worth booking one of the five 'exclusive' rooms, which are only an extra €10 per night but nearly twice as large.418rooms ( single €45, duobles €50, exclusive €60) APR belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Villa Zemun Fruškogorska 1, tel. (+381) 62 66 14

14, office@vilazemun.com, www.vilazemun.com. Boasts comfortable new rooms only minutes from a popular promenade on the Danube river bank in Zemun. All of them are entered from the yard, of which they also have excellent views of. They are equipped with a TV, mini bar, telephone, internet and air conditioning and the villa has video surveillance, so you don’t have to worry about your safety. Morning drinks (tea or coffee,) are free of charge.410 rooms (1 single €45, 9 doubles €70, extra bed €25). Prices include VAT but not the residential tax. APGR

Apartments

Apollo 011 Subotička 23, tel. (+381) 63 11 6 19 82, office@apollo011.in.rs, www.apollo011.in.rs. An affordable high-class apartment with 41m² floor area, located in a newly constructed building on the 3rd floor. The apartment consists of one bedroom, bathroom, completely equipped kitchen and balcony. It is furnished with cable TV, radio, high speed internet connection, telephone, and security door. The building has an elevator, interphone and disabled access. Close to the apartment, there are bus and trolley-bus stops, so you can reach the downtown proper in no time. 441 suites (singles €40, doubles €40, triples €60). No charge for children under 8. Cash deposit (€100 - refundable) and resident tax (131 dinars per person, per night) are not included. PUG Townhouse 50 C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 50, tel. (+381) 11 263 00 52, (+381) 11 263 00 44, stay@ townhouse50.com, www.townhouse50.com. The sister location to the upmarket Townhouse 27 boutique hotel next door, Townhouse 50 is a smaller more modestlypriced alternative that offers the same excellent service

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and facilities, as well as a convenient city centre location. The eight rooms are a combination of doubles, studio apartments and hostel-type rooms with three beds and shared bathrooms. A sauna and fitness centre are located on the ground floor in addition to a café, and bike and scooter rentals are also available.412 rooms (2 suites €110 per suite, 2 doubles lux rooms €90 per person, 3 hostels rooms €30 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PJAFLGDR

Hostels

ArkaBarka floating Belgrade hostel A-1, Bulevar

Nikole Tesle bb, tel. (+381) 64 925 35 07, www. arkabarka.net. A floating hostel on the Danube, made of wood and surrounded by trees, perfect for nature-lovers who like waking up to bird song and don’t mind taking a short walk to the nearest bus stop. The rooms are nice and clean. They also have a lovely bar on the water where parties are occasionally held. 42 doubles €35 per room, 4 triples €47 per room, 2 suites €50-60 per suite. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKA6LG

Beli Grad C-3, Nemanjina 42 / II, tel. (+381) 11 36 12 126, (+381) 64 27 99 009, www.hostelbeligrad. com Located on Slavija Square, this cosy three room hostel is about as central as you can get and the staff have a reputation of being some of the friendliest and most helpful

November-December 2010

Where to stay bike rental, a common room equipped with TV and DVD, a small library, a film collection and various games. 44 rooms (1 double €19, 2 4-bed dorm €16, 1 8-beed dorm €13). Prices do not include residential tax 121 dinars (around €1.5). VAT included. AR

around. When they're not offering to prepare free coffee or tea (or rakija) or do your laundry, they're making sure that the place is kept perfectly clean. 4Highly recommended.3 rooms (8-bed dorm €10-13, 6-bed dorm €13-16, private room €20-30). P6GR

Centar C-2, Gavrila Principa 46a, tel. (+381) 11 761

96 86, www.hostelcentar.com. AA large hostel in a three-floor building, with well-furnished rooms (cable TV, PC, air ionizer, telephone) and kitchen and bathroom on every floor. It is located close to the Central Railway Station and Bus Station, near the centre of the city. The hostel has made a good name for its cleanliness and towels and sheets are changed daily. Each guest will receive a welcoming gift containing various trifles, from slippers to chocolate. 49 rooms (2 doubles €22, 3 triples €21, 3 4-bed dorms €20, 5-bed dorm €20). PRKAG

Crossroad C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. (+381) 11 263 75 70, www.crossroad-hostel.com. This is a nicely decorated, cosy apartment, situated near the city centre, with a living room, dining room, kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms. Clean and comfy. 42 rooms (singles €35, doubles €45, triples €55). Prices include VAT. PRAG Happy hostel C-3, Kralja Milutina 28, tel. tel. (+381) 11 361 94 14, www.happy-hostel.com. Hostel on Slavija Square in the immediate vicinity of the main bus / railway station. The hostel looks happy in every way: carpets and bed linen are in lively colours and the staff are young and pleasant. It is situated on the 2nd floor of a freshly renovated building. A common sitting room, kitchen, two bathrooms and a baggage room make a total of four bedrooms 4(1 double € 25, 1 four-bedded €16, 1 eight-bedded €12) Prices include VAT. PRG

Central Station C-2, Karađorđeva 87, tel.(+381) 11 66 85 067, www.hostelcentralstation.com. Situated on the first floor of an old house across from the Train Station. Although the building’s façade and ground floor hallway appear run-down, the hostel itself is quite decent. The rooms are large and clean, decorated with bright colours, and there’s a sufficient number of toilets and shower compartments. There’s also a common mini-kitchen where guests can prepare their own food. 48 doubles €20, 2 triples €20, 4-bed dorm €15, 3, 5-bed dorm €15,3 8-bed dorm €12(prices per bed). PG Chillton C-3, Katanićeva 7, tel. (+381) 11 344 18 26,

www.chilltonhostel.com. Even though it’s about 2 km from the centre, this is still one of the most popular hostels. The rooms are filled with beds, there are only two toilets and two shower compartments, but there’s also a very comfortable living room and a large kitchen with a wood-burning stove, which is a favourite congregation point for guests. The friendly staff keep the guests informed about upcoming club events and concerts. 44-bed dorm €15-19, 6-bed dorm €8-15, 10-bed dorm €10-13 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRG

City Center C-2, Savski trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 264 40 55, www.hostelcitycenterbelgrade.com. A huge hostel opposite the train station. The furniture and rugs are quite old but the rooms are sunny and clean and offer nice views. Shared bathrooms, but separate for men and women. Each room has a washbasin and some even have their own shower. 441 doubles €22-37, 6 triples €26-33, 3 suites €45, 5 4-bed dorms €9.75, 3 8-bed dorms €8.75. Prices include VAT. PKO6A Cricket C-3, Makenzijeva 46, tel. (+381) 11 244 19

66, www.crickethostel.com. This charming new hostel is located only a 10 minute walk from Republic square and 5 minutes from Slavija square. It includes bright and cheerful colours in the interior and polite staff who will provide you with important info on city events. There are also 3 balconies,

Belgrade In Your Pocket

BGinfoBox Živojina Žujovića 24, Tel. +381 11 38 300 50 www.bginfobox.com belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Hostel Captain C-1, Kapetan Mišina 16, tel. (+381)

11 218 1819, office@hostelcaptain.com, www. hostelcaptain.com. Hostel Captain is one of Belgrade’s leading hostels and is located very conveniently in the city centre. The spacious common room with TV and Internet access, as well as the kitchen, is on the ground floor, with the bedrooms on the first and the second floor. Whether you’re a backpacker, businessman or woman or in group of friends and looking for great value accommodation that is clean and guarantees a comfortable night’s sleep then Hostel Captain is a very good bet when visiting Belgrade. 45 rooms (singles €30, doubles €45, triple €55, 4-bed dorm €68, 6-bed dorm €90. Pices per room). Prices include VAT. P6R

park – which is a rarity for hostels or hotels in this city. The rooms are nice and clean and you can chill out in cosy lazy bags. The pleasant hostel staff will supply you with all the necessary information on a city that never sleeps and may even join you in clubbing. 46 rooms (doubles € 36 twin private room € 35, triples €16, 4-bed dorm €14, 6-bed dorm €12, 10-bed dorm € 12). PR

Hostel Fair B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 37-39,

The New Inn C-2, Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 11 36

In Old Shoes C-2, Brankova 18/II, (+381) 11 218 3650, (+381) 64 136 65 05, info@inoldshoes.com, www.inoldshoes.com Compact and quirky, staying at that Old Shoes feels like something in between the hostelling and couchsurfing experience. Located just down the hill from Republic Square and within easy walking distance of the entire city centre, this place is a great option for budget travellers looking for a quiet homey experience. 43 rooms (8-bed dorm €10, doubles €15). PRG

Three Black Catz C-2, Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel. (+381) 11 262 98 26, www.hostel.co.rs. Very close to Knez Mihailova Street, but somewhat difficult to find. The small and cramped hostel with colourful walls covered in posters is frequented by outgoing young people, as this is the ideal place for them to recuperate from all-night partying, after which they can find neither their socks nor their beds. 45 rooms (4-bed dorms €10-18, 6-bed dorm €10-18). Prices per bed and include VAT. ARG

Jasmin B/C-2, 69 Karadjordjeva, (+381) 63 231 700, (+381) 11 218 4411, office@hostelbelgradejasmin. com, www.hostelbelgradejasmin.com One of the newest hostels in Belgrade, Jasmin is also one of the best, and it's location opposite the central bus train stations makes it the most convenient choice for new arrivals. The old town is easily reached on foot, but if you prefer public transport several tram lines stop right outside as well. Everything in the recently renovated flat is new, and the laid back staff are more than happy to recommend the best parties and let guests sleep in late if no one else is checking in the next day. 420 beds (8-bed dorm €12, 5-bed dorm €15, double €20, single €25 per person). PRL

Tis Koste Abraševića 17, tel. (+381) 11 380 60 50, www.tishostel.co.rs. A large house with a yard far from the city centre, in a quiet residential area. The common room is comprised of a few separate sections. There is also a large kitchen and an attractive backyard where barbecues are often organised in good weather. It is possible to rent the entire hostel for larger groups. 443 doubles €14.7, 8 6-bed dorms 12.7 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PARGL

(+381) 11 369 2506, (+381) 65 88 99 238, info@ hostelfair.rs, www.hostelfair.rs. As the name implies, this place is situated directly opposite the Belgrade Fair, meaning that beds can be hard to come by during events. Despite being located in a rather rough looking commercial building, the hostel has a lot going for it. Still relatively new, the spotless premises have been completely renovated, with lots of bright colours and stylish modern touches. A huge lounge area in the front runs the entire width of the building, which is great for guests who'd like to socialise, since the majority of rooms have only two to four beds. 417 rooms (doubles €25, 4-bed dorm €20, 6-bed dorms €15) PHAR

Manga Hostel C-2, Resavska 7, tel. (+381) 11 324 38 77, (+381) 64 261 0509, fun@mangahostel. com, www.mangahostel.com Winner of HostelWorld's best hostel in Serbia for both 2008 and 2009, Manga is a genuine backpackers’ place, very comfy and pleasantly furnished. It is located in the centre of the town, surrounded by shops, restaurants and city transport stops offering a ride to almost any part of the city. The hostel features a bedside lamp and locker for each bed, hygienic mattress, TV/common room, fully equipped kitchen. 45 rooms (single €25-28, 4-bed dorms €18-20, 8-bed dorm €13-15, 10-bed dorm €11-15). PRG Star C-1, Cara Uroša 37, tel. (+381) 11 218 41 04, www.star-hostel.com One of the oldest hostels in Belgrade, located in the city centre, overlooking Kalemegdan belgrade.inyourpocket.com

12 341 , of fice@thenewinnbelgrade.com, www. thenewinnbelgrade.com. This hostel is hidden away, just off Terazije Square, in the centre of the city, on the second floor of a historic building, so don’t be surprised by the exterior. It is 350 metres from the train and bus stations and within walking distance from anything you may need in the centre. PlayStation, a well equipped kitchen and a large balcony with a beautiful view over the square and Hotel Moskva means the place can very much be recommended. The hostel has one private double bedroom with a separate bathroom and TV. 45 rooms (1 double € 35, 1 triple € 26, 1 4-bed dorm € 22, 1 6-bed dorm € 17, 1 8- bed dorm € 15). Prices include VAT. PARG

Yachting Club Kej B-1, Ušće bb, tel. 316 54 32, www. klubkej.com. A floating hostel on the Danube. Guests are accommodated in twin-bed cabins with large windows. A sufficient number of toilets and showers. Very clean. There’s a restaurant on the boat, as well as a catamaran which takes guests cruising down the Danube every night and offers home-brewed draught beer along with music. 49 doubles €14 per bed. RK6AHG YellowBed C-1, Višnjićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 26 28 220, info@yellowbed.net, vSituated in the heart of Belgrade's trendy vibrant Old Town, the location is perfect for taking advantage of the virtually endless cafés, bars and clubs on Strahinjića Bana and the surrounding streets, as well as the nearby cultural sites and activities. 4Two dorm rooms share a common bathroom in a cosy (read: small) but well-furnished flat, and the staff get consistently high marks for their general helpfulness and nightlife recommendations. 2 rooms (5-bed dorm €12-17, 8-bed dorm €10-15). Breakfast €5.PR November-December 2010

Restaurants required, so don’t forget your ID or passport. 4Open 14:00 – 01:00, Sat,Sun 14:00 – 03:00. €€. PALG

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances the country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic, with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a substantial quantity of meat and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be spicier.

Asian

Ginger A-1, Boulevard Nikola Tesla 3, tel. (+381)

11 220 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. Part of Grand Casino Belgrade, the dishes at this pan-Asian restaurant are inspired by a combination of flavours of the Far East - Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine among them - and prepared in an open kitchen. The 999 dinars buffet gives you the possibility to taste a bit of everything, with the exception of sushi. An entrance pass is

Chinese

Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. (+381) 11 218

19 31, www.peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant, established nearly thirty years ago, with a long-standing tradition of quality. Tucked into one of the side streets in the city centre, this restaurant always has a table available. They have various specialties from different regions in China, as well as Chinese wines, brandy and teas. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. PTBASG

French

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel. (+381) 11 364

06 25. The only French bistro in town. The food is generally decent but can sometimes be a real let-down, especially if the place is crowded. The interior features a long bar, tables that are pushed too close together and large mirrors on the walls. The service could be better, to be frank. During the day the atmosphere here is quite enjoyable but in the evenings the bar area tends to be noisy and swarming with people, so it’s not exactly the best option for an intimate dinner date4Open 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€. PRA

Le Moliere C-2, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. (+381) 11 218 81 61. Authentic French bistro located right next to the French Cultural Centre. The menu, although not extensive, features the classical marvels of French cuisine: French onion soup, foie gras, escalopes with red wine and onion sauce, crème brûlée and chocolate soufflé. Their daily menu (valid until 18:00) includes a different French dish each day. You may order French wines and champagne by the glass. Tread carefully when you go down the stairs on the way to the toilet because the stairway isn’t high enough for most people. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. PASR

Fusion

Diva A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. (+381) 11 220

28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. One of the most luxurious restaurants in Belgrade is housed in Grand Casino, Hotel Yugoslavia at the Zemun Quay. Only registered guests may enter the casino and this applies to all casino facilities, including the Diva restaurant. Registration is free and takes place at the entrance. It entails having your photo taken, filling out a form and presenting your ID or passport. It is well worth spending the time to do this to gain access to what is an elegant restaurant. It features first class fusion specialties prepared by internationally acclaimed chefs and a large selection of wines. The prices are suited to the ambiance but there is a special offer, Eat&Play package offering full dinner (from the daily menu) and 1,000 RSD credit for gambling in the casino, all for the price of 2,490 dinars. Reservations required. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEL.

Majik & Mima C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381) 11 334 86 90, www.majikcafe.com. An attractive restaurant designed by the famed Karim Rashid. Modern art enthusiasts will find it fascinating regardless of the food, which unfortunately tends to be rather bland. The Funky Fusion Food Menu is designed to reflect the restaurant’s unusual interior design (with colour-changing walls) but it still falls short of satisfying the taste buds of a true hedonist. The glass wall dividing the kitchen from the restaurant will reveal that not all the cooks are wearing their caps. Local DJs perform in the evenings. The general impression is enhanced Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

desserts. Its ambiance, food and service make it a favourite for foreigners in Belgrade. Rakija is served in measures which are smaller than is normally the custom. 4Open 10:00 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBRASE

Dišina Koliba Andre Nikolića 2V, tel. (+381) 11 369

17 00. Restaurant on the edge of the Topčider forest. Discover interesting international meals prepared by the new chef. National meals (old recipes for kebabs and cakes and cookies) and barbecues are reliable standards here, but we recommend beefsteak with five different sauces. A variety of wines and spirits is also offered. 4Open 11:00 – 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. APBSG

by the amiable hostess and the fantastic chocolate soufflé. 4Open 07:00 - 01:00. €€€. PBRAS

Zaplet D-3, Kajmakčalanska 2, (+381) 11 240 41 42.

Always fresh and innovative, this Vračar-based restaurant is one of Belgraders’ favorite places. The establishment offers mainly fusion cuisine, so don’t let the unusual mixtures of flavors confuse you. It might look contradictory at first glance but once you taste the food you’ll lose any preconceptions you might have had before. There are also a wide range of traditional Serbian dishes and surprisingly some of the best “ćevapčići” in town, as well as sumptuous lamb with potatoes. Everything fits perfectly together here – from the minimalist interior, staff livery, to the manner in which the food is served. 4Open 09:00 – 23:00, Closed Mon. €€. PBRAS

Greek

Zorba D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 65

47, www.zorba.co.rs. A restaurant with a number of authentic specialties from the various regions of Greece. All the dishes are prepared with olive oil and Greek wines are also available. One of only five restaurants in the world guarding the secret recipe for the topping of the famous Rota pie. The unimpressive interior shouldn’t be an issue, as this place is well worth visiting for one compelling reason - the truly good food.4Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. PTBASG

Indian

Maharaja Ljubićka 1b, tel. (+381) 11 344 62 35, www. maharaja.rs. One of Belgrade's only Indian restaurants, Maharaja passes the authenticity test with a menu full of superb dishes from the sub-continent prepared in a traditional tandoori oven. As should be expected, some of the dishes are extremely hot so be sure to to tell your waiter if you prefer a milder version of the meal. Since the restaurant is a bit removed from the city centre the best way to get there is by taxi.4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBASG

International

Balzac C-1, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel. (+381) 11 328

59 06, A small restaurant with an enjoyable atmosphere, famous for its meat specialties and uniquely decorated

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Dobrila C-2, Dobračina 30, tel. (+381) 11 262 58 69. A friendly atmosphere, reasonable prices and a lengthy menu of international standards and local specialities, all make Dobrila a recommended stop for either lunch or dinner. We usually stop by in the evenings for a plate (or two) of popcorn chicken and a couple of drinks, and the place doubles as a club at night, with live music from Wednesday to Saturday. 4Open Mon-Sun 10:00-02:00. Kitchen closes at 23:00. PAE Franš C-3, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. (+381) 11

264 19 44, www.frans.rs. An elegant restaurant named after the French general, Franchet d’Esperey. It has an incredibly extensive menu with Serbian and international dishes, an excellent selection of wines (over 400 types from all parts of the world) and specialties made of black or white truffles. This restaurant also owns an impressive collection of paintings that decorate the walls.4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBASL

Iguana B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 3283 749. Formerly known as Superspace, one of the Belgrade’s finest jazz clubs, the Iguana restaurant kept the interior of the former club and spiced it up with a unique gastronomic experience. Located at the currently very popular Beton hala complex, the restaurant has a magnificent view of the Sava River and Branko Bridge. The central part of the restaurant is a small stage that hosts jazz gigs each night at around 1900. The music is discreet and perfectly fits the whole ambience. The range of meals on offer on the menu is not that extensive but the mixtures of different flavours make it very special. There is a decent selection of wines available and the friendly staff will make sure that your choice complements your food. For those with a sweet tooth we recommend the restaurant’s famous warm date cake. 4Open 10.00 – 02.00. €€. PBRASE Kalemegdanska Terasa B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.

(+381) 11 328 30 11, www.kalemegdanskaterasa.com. The only restaurant situated within the Belgrade Fortress, famous for its terrace and breathtaking view of the Danube. It has a very pleasing ambiance, excellent cuisine and a wide selection of wines. Reservations are recommended, as the place is often rented out for banquets and cocktail parties.4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL

Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 31. One of the oldest restaurants in the city centre, the building being old about 150 years. Guests like November-December 2010

Restaurants Alberto Moravia, Jean-Paul Sartre, Richard Burton, Ivo Andrić once made it a meeting point of writers and artists(you needed a membership card to enter!). Restaurant had been redecorated, but has retained the spirit of the old days. It also has a large summer garden.4Open 12:00 – 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. €€€. PBASR

Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328 89 95, www.little-bay.co.uk. An unusual interior this, reminiscent of an opera setting with the waiters dressed in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse, each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day you can enjoy famous opera tunes and in the evenings live performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the cake? The food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in town! 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €. PRAEGSB Madera C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. (+381) 11 323 13 32, www.maderarestoran.com. A renowned Belgrade restaurant with an elegant interior and beautiful terrace located on the periphery of Tašmajdan Park. The food is excellent and apart from the national dishes on the menu the Italian chef has also made sure to include some Italian meals and desserts.4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL Metropolitan Grill B-2, Milentija Popovića 5 (Hotel Hyatt), tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. Although it's a hotel restaurant, it is worth a visit as it offers a new a la carte menu introducing light and seasonal dishes created by the Hyatt culinary team and is a perfect venue for lunch in a relaxed atmosphere. The kitchen serves a wide selection of Serbian and international cuisine, and there's a popular Sunday brunch between noon and 17:00. It also often features guest chef programs, presenting cuisines and dishes from around the world, including Asia, the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Europe. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30. €€€. PAELUSRG Mythologia C-3, Birčaninova 42, tel. (+381) 11

265 89 11, www.restoranmithologia.com. An elegant restaurant with a spacious, open terrace, this place is favourite with people working for nearby embassies and offices. The menu is an eclectic mixture of international dishes(from cappuccino shrimps to venison fillet in berryshaped forest fruit) and some traditional Serbian specialities. The restaurant boasts a large wine cellar with over 400 wines from all over the world and if you find it difficult to make your choice, there is a sommelier on hand to help out.4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PBAS

Opera C-2, Obilićev venac 30, tel. (+381) 11 303 62 00. A charming little restaurant, ideal both for short business lunches and romantic occasions. The classic style furniture with its intricate designs borders on kitsch, but it is nevertheless comfortable to sit on. The food and wine menu is so diverse that everyone can find something to their liking. The waiters are hospitable, but at times overly insistent with their food recommendations. 4Open 11:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTUBAS Pogođena patka (The Shot Duck) C-2, Đure Daničića 13, (+381) 11 334 04 60, www.pogodjenapatka.com. A very nice restaurant in the basement of an old house where Queen Draga Mašin lived before she got married. It is close enough to the city centre for an enjoyable stroll. The clientele varies - from business people to couples. Apart from the duck specialties, they offer a number of meat and fish dishes as

Belgrade In Your Pocket

well as excellent desserts. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. PAGBGSR

Principal - Diners Club B-2, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 214 04 67. A floating restaurant with an unforgettable view of old town Belgrade, regardless of whether you are seated inside or on the terrace just above the Sava River, the kind waiters will make sure you spend a perfect afternoon by the water. The menu is extensive with a variety of superblyprepared fish and meat dishes but sometimes they can go a little overboard with the olive oil. The interior is a bit shabby and the toilet tiny but the restaurant is still considered one of the most beautiful in the city. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00, Closed Thu. €€. APBGE Ruski car C-2; Obilićev venac 29, tel. (+381) 11 263 58 73. Established in 1830 in the very heart of the city at the corner of Knez Mihailova Street and Obilićev Venac, this is one of Belgrade's most popular meeting places. Recently redecorated, with a large but always crowded summer terrace, Ruski Car has continued to be one of the symbols of the city. Cakes and sweets match the traditionally good coffee, but dont forget the Russian and international cuisine it has on offer.4Open 07:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS Supermarket C-1 Višnjićeva 10, tel. (+381) 11 291

09 42, office@supermarket.rs, www. supermarket. rs. Belgrade's unique Supermarket concept store is home

Fast food Čobanov odmor D-3, Vojvode Šupljikca 34, tel.

(+381) 11 245 09 47, www.cobanovodmor.com. Traditional Serbian fast food in folklore-style kiosks. They deliver all over town. 4Open 24 hrs. Also at Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 141, tel. 213 45 77. €. S

Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 328 30 69. Superbly prepared Italian take-out: sandwiches, pasta, profiteroles, tiramisu. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00. €. S McDonald’s A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85a, tel.

(+381) 11 310 73 78. Drive-in. 4 Open 08:00 - 24:00. Also at Deligradska 2, tel. 265 64 91. Terazije 27, tel. 323 52 97. €. PTUBASL

Pekara Toma C-2, Kolarčeva 6-8, tel. 263 63 43,

www.tomacentar.co.rs. This bakery offers sandwiches, salads, pizzas, cakes, burek (pie made with phyllo dough) and all kinds of traditional Serbian pastry. 4Open 24 hrs. €. PAS

Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 218 19 31, www. peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant has adapted some simple yet delicious Chinese recipes for those who prefer to eat on the go or order takeaway food. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. AS

Sandwich King C-2, Savska Trg 1, +381 66 20 20 20,

sandwichking@gmail.com Founded in Eastern Canada in 1996, this fast growing chain has already managed to bring its fresh-made sandwich franchise to Serbia. Located opposite the central train station and open around the clock, it's definitely a more appealing option than most of the other eateries in the area. We also give them high marks for sense of humour, with South Park characters Terrance and Phillip representing the lone Canadian sandwich on the internationally themed (and English language) menu. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00 € PALS

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Restaurants to one of the city's trendiest restaurants. Featuring a varied international menu devised by Dutch head chef Sem Veldheer, a beautiful open kitchen and a bar running almost the entire length of the building, it's worth visiting even if for those not in the mood to peruse the selection of goods in other parts of the store. Every morning there's a hearty breakfast on offer at 09:00, and from 13:00-17:00 on Sundays you can enjoy a special menu and live music during Jazz Brunch. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PERAB

Tribeca C-1/2, Kralja Petra 20, tel. (+381) 11 328 56 56, (+381) 11 328 55 66, www.tribecabeograd.com. Themed after the neighbourhood of the same name in New York, the restaurant features an international menu with a large selection of salads, fish, soups and of course meat dishes - including the delectable house speciality, tagliatelle with duck, as well as the best chocolate soufflé in town. The food is complimented by a lengthy list of international wines, all of which can be served by either the bottle or glass, and the English speaking staff are the definition of professional.4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PGRAB Tribeca Uniqa A-2 Milutina Milankovica 134d, tel.

(+381) 11 202 60 04, www.tribecabeograd.com. Located in New Belgrade, this is the sister restaurant to Tribeca in the city centre (and takes its extended name from the office building it's located in). Catering mainly to business clientele from the surrounding offices, the interior is warm and relaxed with a professional English speaking staff. In addition to the à la carte menu, daily business lunch specials are always available, and all wines from the sizeable wine list can be ordered by either the bottle or the glass.4Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€. PGRABS

Whatever @ The Corner C-3, Beogradska 37,

tel. (+381) 11 323 64 70, www.nacosku.com. An exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food, but also for its first-rate service and enjoyable ambiance. A place where great attention is paid to details, and where customer satisfaction is the number one priority. Though the menu is somewhat sparse, it features carefully selected Mediterranean specialties. This restaurant is ideal both for large groups and romantic couples, and the best tables are those by the window. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. PATSRG

Košava Trattoria C-1, Kralja Petra 36, tel. (+381) 11

Žabar A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 319 12 26, www.zabar.co.rs. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Belgrade and is situated on a raft on the Danube river quay. It is ideal both for couples and large crowds and guests have the option of isolating themselves in booths. The quality of the food and high prices attract numerous Serbian celebrities. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PALG

Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. (+381) 11

Italian

Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42 A, tel. (+381) 11 303 68 67. A cosy little duplex restaurant, particularly popular among foreigners. The tall windows allow you to observe passers-by even when seated in the upper section. The service is excellent and there is a good selection of Italian wines on offer. The specialty of the house is the Sicilian Wheel - a spicy meat dish that might seem a bit intimidating at first, but is actually just the right size for one reasonably hungry customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBRAS

262 73 44, www.trattoriakosava.com. Established in 1982, the Košava Trattoria retains a friendly traditional feel of an original Italian trattoria in the very heart of the city. With its menu of more than 100 mostly Italian and Serbian recipes and attentive waitng staff, Košava combines the 'mamas kitchen' concept with world class dining. It has become a favourite all occasion destination in Belgrade and a place where one can eat arguably the best carpaccio in town. 4Open 09:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAS 328 30 69. Light Mediterranean cuisine abundant in basil and olive oil is what this establishment offers. The menu includes pastas, meat dishes, a variety of salads and fresh vegetables and they are also famous for their excellent cakes and good music which completes the experience. The waiters are friendly but can be a little slow with the orders when the garden area is full. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBASGR

Ottimo C-2, Studentski trg 10, tel. (+381) 11 328 64 54. Situated next to Studenstki Park. A cosy and romantic little restaurant with a multitude of interesting decorations on the walls and one of the most inventive open terrace solutions in town. The menu features a large selection of Italian specialties, including excellent tiramisu that is freshly prepared on the premises. The waiters are efficient and friendly and you can safely rely on their recommendations 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASG

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November-December 2010

Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

rustic Cuban-themed interior has an undeniable charm to it, while the food is authentic enough for our tastes and quite good - our personal favourite is probably the Brazilian chicken with ginger and peanuts, followed of course by piece of Cuban rum cake. In addition to the usual cocktail suspects, they also have a wide selection of quality wines from Chile, Argentina and Portugal among other places. Recommended. 4Open 09 - 01 € PABGSR

Lebanese

Beirut Café C-1/2 , Simina 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 0135. Opened last September by a Swedish Lebanese expat, like the owner this Arabic eatery is a peculiar mix of East and West. The single large dining area is open and airy with several nice touches of authentic décor, such as Lebanese-style chandeliers and couches, as well as some cool abstract art, and in the warmer months a large interior courtyard is opened. However, much of the food is unfortunately Lebanese in name only, or at least we've never come across fattoush with yellow peppers or soujuk with mushrooms before - not to mention tortillas masquerading as Arabic flat bread.4Open 12:00 – 24:00. €€ APB Byblos C-3, Nebojšina 6, (+381) 11 24 41 938. An

Panta rei C-1, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. (+381) 11 303 66 98, www.pantarei.co.rs. A recently-renovated restaurant with a contemporary interior. The large windows provide stunning views of the Danube and Zemun. However, you’re in for an unpleasant surprise if you try and sit at one of the tables by the window, because the waiter will most certainly explain to you that it is reserved for Godot and his crowd (i.e., the ones that never turn up). Nevertheless, the tables are arranged in such a way that you will enjoy a beautiful view regardless of where you sit. There are some interesting items on the menu, though while some of the dishes are truly excellent, others are average. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGS6 Pietro dell Oro D-3, Trnska 2, tel. (+381) 11 344 77 00, www.pietrodelloro.com. This restaurant is staffed with probably the best waiters in town. A truly enjoyable setting, regardless of whether you’re sitting in the upper level or in the attractive, vapour-cooled garden. The food is superbly prepared by an Italian chef but the menu could use a little rejuvenation every once in a while. Be sure to try the panacotta. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTUBAESGR

Japanese

Ikki Sushi Bar C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. (+381) 11 218 41 83, www.ikkibar.com. Here you can try traditional Japanese dishes, green tea and sake. The sushi arrangement is an art form and the chef in this restaurant is a true master of the art. Do not be discouraged by the small, empty area and bar visible from the street - the restaurant is on the upper level. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PUBASG

Latin American

Bar Latino Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 357 33 33, www.barlatino.rs, office@barlatino.rs. This newly opened Cuban restaurant shares its building with Buena Vista, a popular and long-running café and cocktail bar. The Belgrade In Your Pocket

elegant restaurant with bright colours, good lighting and pictures of Beirut on the walls. The influences of eastern and Mediterranean cuisine are noticeable, but it’s the mezze that makes Lebanese cuisine special. Hot or cold, it is served in small dishes and choosing what to eat is not so easy, but you can always go for humus, falafel, Lebanese bread or baklava with pistachios and mahalabi (cream with pistachios and ouzo). 4Open 12:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS

Mexican

Burito bar D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 65 46. A snug, dimly-lit restaurant with an interior made entirely out of wood. The waiters will patiently explain the specifics of all the Mexican specialties on offer. As opposed to the original dishes in Mexico, the food here is tolerably spicy and won’t set your lips on fire. The portions are large, and the waiters will let you combine various dishes. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00 €€. PTA Nachos C-1 Strahinjica Bana 66a, (+381) 11 262 34

33, www.nachos.rs. Located in Belgrade’s celebrated ‘Silicone Valley’ district, where all the beautiful people come to play at night during the weekend, Nachos has a modest interior evoking its cuisine’s Central American origin and also has cow hide adorning one of the walls, just to remind you what you might be eating. You have to go upstairs to eat, downstairs to drink and dance. The Mexican food is superb and can be ordered ultra spicy or not, just as you like it. The grilled pork ribs are one of the menu’s best features and are served with homemade barbeque sauce (which has whiskey in it) and is served with fried potatoes. They only cost 750 dinars to boot. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. €. PBAETRS

Pizzerias

Guli C-2, Skadarska 13, tel. (+381) 11 3237 204, www.guli.rs. Situated in the middle of bohemian Skadarlija area with its characteristic brick-wood-dim light ambience. Though the interior of this restaurant/pizzeria appears to be modern, the pizzas are still served in a traditional way from the wood-fired brick oven. Besides pizza you can enjoy different types of pastas, meat and fish. The restaurant has a beautiful terrace which is extremely pleasant in summertime. 4Open 12.00 – 00.00. €€. PBRAS belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Pomodoro C-2, Hilandarska 32, tel. (+381) 11 334 28 97. Here you can treat yourself to probably the best pizzas in town prepared in a wood-burning stove, of course. There is also an unassuming and airy interior, a short wine list containing just a few exquisite wines and a large selection of non-conventional pizza combinations. The menu also features photographs of each dish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 €€. PTUBRASG

Seafood

Mai Bai Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. (+381) 11 354 22 37. This Banovo Brdo restaurant has an inviting atmosphere and is reminiscent of a family house with a garden. The summer ambiance features candle-lit dinners in the garden under grape-vines, while a crackling fire is sure to warm your spirits during the winter. All the dishes are excellent. You should try the salmon in white sauce or the sea perch prepared king-style and make sure you don’t skip the fantastic tiramisu. The best transport solution is to take a taxi, as the restaurant is rather difficult to find. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. PBASLR

74 46. Fresh, non-frozen salt-water fish and seafood prepared in the Dalmatian style. A cosy atmosphere and excellent service. If you are having a romantic dinner with enough money to spend, be sure to try their combined specialty dish, which they will serve on two different plates: salty anchovies in combination with lozova rakija (grape brandy), cold cuttlefish and octopus salad, black and white risotto, mixed shellfish buzara (shellfish in a special sauce). For the main course you should opt for a fresh fish, such as the grouper or St. Pierre. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PBA

Paša A-1, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. (+381) 11 261 21 19. A floating, river restaurant specialising in freshwater fish caught in the Danube. It has both an enclosed section and an open terrace above the water – which also happens to be a popular resting place for river gulls. The interior is modest, the food served in a straightforward manner and the recipes simple but perfectly wholesome. This is one of the few restaurants in Belgrade where you will get paper napkins instead of the usual cloth ones. Be sure to try the fish chowder and the grilled perch. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA

Gušti mora A-3, Radnička 27, tel. (+381) 11 355 12

Stara koliba B-1, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 311 74

Pizza Hut C-2, Makedonska 44, tel. (+381) 11 322

13 12. American-style pizzas for those who prefer that sort of experience. The menu also includes salads, pasta and various appetisers, as well as daily specials at reduced prices. The waiters are quick and friendly. 4Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA

Bevanda D-3, Požarevačka 51, tel. (+381) 11 244

68. Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders love sea food and have very high standards when it comes to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwater fish, lobster and shellfish prepared in the same style as in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The waiters are kind and obliging. Even though the restaurant is located in a rather unattractive part of the city - just next door to a tire repair shop, the good food it offers makes it a very popular place especially among celebrities. Avoid the garden - it’s much nicer inside. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. APBGRS

44. Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating restaurant made of wood and reeds is situated in the most beautiful spot in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If you don't have a reservation, the chances of getting a table on the terrace with the stunning view are next to none. Nevertheless, there is also charm in sitting at the bar surrounding the cooking area, as you can watch the cooks prepare meat and fish dishes. This restaurant’s biggest downside is the poor service. Be prepared to wait for a long time for the waiter even to approach you if you’re not a regular customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. APBE

Serbian

Čubura C-3, Makenzijeva bb, Place Peyton, tel. (+381)

11 244 07 56. Located in a small group of shops near the Čuburski park, also known as Peyton Place, this restaurant makes the best grilled meats and unquestionably the best ćevapčići (grilled minced-meat fingers) in town. It is just the place for those who prefer their meat without flavour enhancers or sauces spoiling its taste. The interior is rather modest and it is advised that the toilet be used only in emergency situations. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. €. PTBA

Dačo Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. (+381) 11 278 24 22. A restaurant that reliably depicts the atmosphere of a real Serbian village, with checked tablecloths, mismatched cutlery and cats and hens roaming around the tables in the garden. You should try the village appetiser, the svadbarski kupus (Wedding Cabbage) and the house wine. Since the restaurant - situated in a remote part of town - is extremely popular, reservations are recommended. 4Open 12:00 24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PTBAS Dva Jelena C-2, Skadarska 32, (+381) 11 323 48 85,

info@dvajelena.rs, www.dvajelena.rs One of the best known and longest running restaurants in the city, the Two

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November-December 2010

Restaurants Kafana A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant. The first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was opened by the Turks at the end of the 16th century, in the Dorćol area of the city. The kafana differs from a standard restaurant in the following ways: ordering food is not obligatory - you can come for only a drink, no scornful looks will be thrown your way if you dip your bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your elbows on the table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts are normal occurrences, the guests address the waiters by their first names, the food is good but never exceptional and the tables are often pushed together for the purposes of socialising... The old rule says that inns are places where business is done, domestic and world politics discussed, (false) information exchanged and sadness cured. So, although the portions are large, much more than meal consumption time is spent in the inns. Traditional kafanas are losing ground to industrial catering facilities and gradually declining in number.

Deer kafana is one of the symbols of Belgrade and more or less a must-see destination for visitors. Originally opened as a bakery in 1832, it was sold by the original owners some 35 years later and changed into a restaurant, which immediately began attracting a mixed bohemian crowd. Besides various expansions, little has changed in the time since, and a full array of hearty traditional Serbian dishes are served in what could easily be mistaken for a hunter's lodge, often accompanied by live music. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00 €€. PABE

Jevrem C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. (+381) 11

328 47 46, www.restoran-jevrem.com. Situated in the city centre, in a house built at the beginning of the last century this restaurant is known for its beautiful terrace and is located well away from city’s noise. Here you will find various Serbian dishes and although they may not be prepared in the most faithful way, you will have the opportunity to try certain meals that are almost impossible to find elsewhere, such as pihtije (jellied pork or duck) or cicvara (a dish made of corn flour, eggs, butter and cheese). The waiters occasionally slip-up by bringing the main course before the guests have finished with their appetisers. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBAE

Manjež C-3, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. (+381) 11

362 11 11. One of the few restaurants in Belgrade that has retained the character of an authentic city bistro and it offers skillfully-prepared Serbian specialties which are difficult to find elsewhere. It has a highly enjoyable atmosphere and a wide diversity of guests - from lawyers rummaging through their files while sipping a cognac to bubbly housewives

Belgrade In Your Pocket

meeting over coffee to discuss burning global issues. The atmosphere is further enhanced by traditional romantic tunes softly playing in the background. The waiters will gladly put a few tables together for larger groups. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASER

Proleće C-2, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. (+381) 11 263

54 36. A restaurant known for its variety of ‘home-cooked’ meals and grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), discoloured cutlery and the occasional patched tablecloth, Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts a wide variety of customers - young couples in love, old folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, penniless students sharing a portion - all united by their mutual craving for a warm, ‘home-cooked’ meal. No music.4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PBA

Rubin Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. (+381) 11 351 21 23. A

sign on the street indicates where to turn for this restaurant, which is well-hidden in the Košutnjak Forest. A view of the city and the Avala Mountain extends from the gorgeous terrace. They have excellent grilled meat and Czech beer. It is most crowded at the weekends during lunchtime, so if you wish to sit on the terrace it is best to make a reservation. It’s a real treat to take a walk after the meal in the surrounding area, where the silence is broken only by singing birds. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. APBGLR

Salaš Sinđelićeva 34, tel. (+381) 11 219 03 24. A wonderful duplex restaurant in an old family house in Gardoš. The interior is decorated in bright colours and floral patterns typifying houses in the province of Vojvodina. The upper level has a breathtaking view of the Danube, stretching over the roofs of Gardoš and for an even more rewarding experience try getting a table on the miniature terrace. The food is decent and the portions large. The waiters are friendly but few in number, so if the restaurant is jam-packed, consistent efforts to get their attention might end in a real mood-spoiler. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. €€. PBAE Srpska kafana C-2, Svetogorska 25, tel. (+381) 11

324 71 97. A legendary Belgrade restaurant where back in the old days, live Gypsy music used to entertain the crowd deep into the night. There is no longer live music, and nowadays the ambiance is more reminiscent of a village setting than of a town. The cuisine features national specialties (both home-cooked and grilled) at fairly low prices. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €. APG

Stara carinarnica Kej oslobođenja 31, tel. (+381) 11 261 69 30. It is situated in a 1723 building which used to be an Austro-Hungarian customs house. The interior is dominated by brick domes and photographs of old-town Zemun. The restaurant is renowned for its variety of grilled meat and home-cooked dishes. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Skala - one of the best orchestras in town - performs here, and such particular nights tend to be very loud and jovial, with musicians roaming from table to table, so you can order a song if you wish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. APBEG Stara Hercegovina D-2, Carigradska 36, tel. (+381) 11 324 58 56. An authentic Belgrade ale-house, where you can enjoy draught beer, smoked ribs off the grill, and knuckle-of-pork covered in sour cabbage leaves and served with horseradish. It’s difficult to find a table during lunchtime and since the poor ventilation will leave you smelling like your dinner even after you have left, this restaurant is not exactly the best choice for a meal before the theatre.4Open 09:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €. PBARS

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Restaurants

used in the village once upon a time. Reservations required on weekends. 4Open 10:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon. €€. P TARBSL 6.

Spanish

Cantina de Frida B-2 Karađorđeva 2-4, Beton hala, tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20,Info@cntinadefrida.com, www.cantinadefride.com. New bar-restaurant located on the Sava pier. The interior decoration unifies lively colours and details associated with Mexico and the life of the famous artist, Frida Kahlo. The lively colours repeat themselves on the plates, too. The core offering on the menu is tapas: hot or cold and based on meat or sea food. If you decide to share your meal with your companion, the restaurant also offers large tapas. The experienced waiters are there to help you make the right choice of meal and sauce, allowing you to decide exactly how spicy you want your dish to be. Don’t miss Diego’s pancakes, made just like Frida used to cook them. The place is already very popular, so check ahead. 4Open: 12:00 - 02:30. €€. PBARLR Milagro Kej Oslobodjenja 55, tel. (+381) 11 316 01

Tabor Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. (+381) 11 241 24 64, www.restorantabor.com. A famous restaurant with Serbian specialties, and a true favourite with Belgraders. Be sure to try the spicy potatoes, the čačanski uštipci (Čačak-style minced meat) and quince rakija. Guests also have the option of preparing their own meat on a volcanic rock. You should probably avoid dishes that don’t fit the ambiance, such as gnocchi or spaghetti. Their musicians are among the best in town and are also surprisingly unobtrusive.4Open 12:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTBAEL Zlatnik Slavonska 26, tel. (+381) 11 316 62 56. This

is both a Serbian cuisine restaurant and a fish restaurant, located in the Zlatnik Hotel in Zemun. Its peaceful setting far from the racket of the city - makes it ideal for important business lunches. The service is exceptional, the noodles in the soup are homemade, and their turkey with mlinci (type of pasta) is by far the best in town. 4Open 06:30 - 23:00. €€. PTBALRS

Zornića kuća (The Zornić family house , Živorada

Jankovića 13 (Baćevac village, Barajevo), tel. (+381) 11 254 02 54, www.zornicakuca.rs. When you feel you have had enough of the hubbub and the smog of the city, when you wish to indulge in traditional dishes made of organically grown produce and then succumb freely to postprandial somnolence, a trip to Zornića Kuća will set things right. Half an hour ride from the centre of the city, located some 5km after the exit from the Ibarska motorway in the direction of Baćevac village, the farm spreads out over three hectares and features a restaurant, souvenir shop, children’s playground, as well as stables with horses, cows, sheep and goats. You can enjoy delicious food, over 30 kinds of rakija and wine, the chirrup of the birds, and stories about the old tools and items

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60, www.milagrosq.rs. Located in Zemun, on the bank of the Danube, in a pleasing ambience of a new, airy two-storied house with lots of windows. Dark wood, stone, leather and wrought iron create an elegant décor. The restaurant is divided in several sections and everyone will find a spot to their liking. There is also a terrace on the first floor with a great view of the Danube. You can try paella and tortilla made to original recipes as the restaurant is owned by a former FC Barcelona football player. The menu also features chuletón - T-bone steak served on a hot plate with a burner so you can cook it to your preference. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€€. TARBES

Local Specialties In Serbia, the salad is eaten with the main course. Thanks to greenhouses and imports, one can have tomato or lettuce throughout the year. However, old customs still linger and the most popular winter salads include: roast paprika (pečena paprika), ajvar, sauerkraut and pickles (turšija). Roast paprika is made of large peppers, grilled over coals or on a cooker, peeled and seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and finely chopped garlic. Ajvar is a savoury local relish made of red peppers and aubergines, roasted, peeled and chopped or minced and sautéed with oil seasonings and garlic. The sauerkraut is prepared by tightly packing cabbage heads, their roots removed, into a plastic barrel and filling the barrel with salted water. The fermented cabbage from the barrel is used to prepare local specialties such as sarma (cabbage rolls), podvarak (cabbage baked in the oven with pork), or is eaten as a salad, chopped and seasoned with dried and ground hot peppers. The sour cabbage juice, brimming with vitamin C, is called rasol and is the local cure for hangovers. Pickles - pickled cucumbers, cauliflower, carrots, peppers and green tomato make great appetizers, as does sauerkraut, particularly when served with straight rakija (brandy) or kuvana rakija (mulled brandy).

November-December 2010

CAFÉS Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly

Amsterdam A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381)

11 319 49 71, The most exquisite terrace on the river, famous for attracting the city’s most beautiful women. The restaurant offers light meals and cakes, though you should avoid eating here unless you are extremely hungry, as the prices are known to exceed the quality of the food. The best tables can usually be found vacant because they are reserved for friends of the establishment that hardly ever stop by. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PBAEL

Bistro Pastis C -1 , Strahinjića Bana 52b,

bistropastis@gmail.com. One of the most popular cafes in ‘Silicone Valley’. Many celebrities who live nearby like to come here, and the small barrels used for tables in the outdoor section are favourite places for posing next to for the young, besuited executives who flock to the cafe as well. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10.00 – 02.00. BGRTA

Cafeteria Moment D-3, 16 Topolska, tel. (+381)

11 344 32 35. A large yet homey café, with brick walls, vaulted ceilings and lots of nooks to relax in with your drink of choice. Rotating photography exhibitions and a decent international music selection round out the laid back atmosphere, and there's plenty of outdoor seating if the weather allows. There's also a second location in the Delta Shopping centre at 16 Jurija Gagarina. 4Open Daily 09:00 - 01:00. PAR

Ex M C-2, Palmotićeva 27, tel. (+381) 11 323 33 82. The deep shade of the linden tree in a tiny park hides one of the most popular cafes in the city centre. It is a favourite spot for those who work in advertising agencies, cultural facilities, and all others who have the freedom to extend their lunch break and can afford to wait for the waiter to bring their order. If you have enough time on your hands, you can admire the ability of Belgraders to prolong the act of drinking an espresso into a half-hour event. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. PB Favela C-1, Miročka 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 93 56. A very popular café, very close to the so called Silicon Valley (Strahinjića bana Street), which is famous for the homemade wine that is available exclusively in the establishment. Carefully chosen music, a quiet location, a green garden-terrace in Belgrade city centre with a touch of Brazilian class are a real treat.4Open: 09:00 - 23:00. RB

Galerija Čunarska 1, tel. (+381) 11 261 20 96. The most romantic café in town, situated in Gardoš - Zemun’s popular promenade - near the Danube quay. If a particular woman has not yet fallen under your charms, this place is sure to sweep her off her feet. The music played in the background is jazz and the walls are bedecked with upfor-sale paintings by various up-and-coming artists. They Belgrade In Your Pocket

also serve food, which you can enjoy on the beautiful open terrace or, on rainy days, in the wine cellar. 4Open 10:00 23:00. B A

Kandahar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. (+381) 11

291 03 11. A café named after the city in Afghanistan. The interior is decorated in the Oriental style and filled with colourful pillows and the exterior features an unusual open terrace with low tables and canopies. With a large selection of tea blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few spots in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni Raki. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBA

Lime Café C-2, Obilićev Venac 1 , Located on a side street just off of Republic Square, this trendy new coffeehouse offers a pleasant enough atmosphere to go with your daily caffeine fix. The interior is modern and stretches across three different levels, with additional seating in the garden outside. There are also free laptops to go along with the free Wi-Fi, and several large LCD screens are usually tuned into some sporting event or other. 4Open 08:00 24:00. PBASR Sweet cafe C-2, Zadarska 2, tel. (+381) 11 303 64 61. A great place for a chat with your friends and an excellent spot to take a break after a tour round Kosančićev venac. Coffee enthusiasts will be pleased with the café menu - offering 40 different kinds of caffeine fix. The café is on three levels, the lowest overlookng a busy crossroads, and the highest being the smallest and cosiest. 4Open 08:00 - 03:00. A BGR6

Coffee & Cakes

Grand pleasure C-2, Vasina 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 24. A new chain of cafés with a wide variety of take-away coffees. Those wishing to have their coffee on the premises of the café can enjoy its delightful ambiance, providing there’s a table available. It’s a good place to start the day, as they also offer sandwiches, salads, fruit smoothies and freshlysqueezed orange juice. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PBRASG Mama’s Biscuit House C-1, Strahinjića Bana 72a, tel. (+381) 11 328 38 05, www.mammashouse.co.rs. Offers a wide variety of cakes and other sweet treats. Their terrace is a favourite spot for gazing at girls strolling down the street commonly known (for obvious reasons) as 'Silicone Valley'. As with most of the cafés in this part of town, Mamma's doubles as a trendy bar once the sun goes down.4Open 09:00 - 01:00. PTBA Torte i to Café C-3, Prote Mateje 62, Vračar, tel. (+381) 64 649 21 39, www.torte-i-to.com. Beginning with a single shop in Zagreb only a few years ago, this purveyor of delectable cakes and pastries has spread throughout the Balkans, finally arriving in Serbian capital in 2008 and quickly becoming a favourite stop for sweet toothed residents. Located on a cosy, quiet spot in Vračar just south of Tašmajdan Park - the friendly staff is more than happy to make recommendations, but our personal favourite is probably the Belushi carrot cake. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGRBSA belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Symbol key

also hosts private parties in the evenings. 4Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PEAR6

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly Belgrade is famous for its exciting nightlife. Wherever you go, you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel at home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of the week and they do so spontaneously - at any given time and regardless of how much work they have the following day. The most exciting and busiest nights out on the town are not dictated by the day of the week but by circumstances and events. Floating river clubs are a special feature of the city’s nightlife. They vary in size, customer capacity and type of music played. As they are far from residential zones, the party can last till dawn, especially if the guests are in good spirits.

Bars & Pubs

Amarone Wine Bar C-2, Gospodar Jovanova 56, tel.+381 60 504 04 55. An immensely popular wine bar located in old town, there's a decent - if not overwhelming - selection of wines from around the world, from European mainstays Italy, France and Spain, to up-and-coming new world countries like the US, Chile and Australia. The low wood tables and chairs aren't the most comfortable in the world but do add nicely to the overall air of rustic ambiance. It's a good idea to make reservations at the weekends, when DJs spin increasingly up-tempo beats from atop a couple of old wine barrels. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAER AUR - Klub svetskih putnika C-2, Bulevar Despota

Stefana 7/1, tel. (+381) 11 324 23 03, www.aur-usp. rs. An unusual venue, well hidden in the cellar of a residential building. The diversely decorated rooms and a cat lounging around on the heater make the atmosphere here very cosy. You can also skim through their collection of books on exotic, far-away lands, or have a sandwich during the day. This venue

Bar Central C-1, Kralja Petra 59. Tel. (+381) 11 262 64 44. The ever-popular Bar Central may not have the most original name, but it's second to none when it comes to cocktails and bartending displays in Belgrade - with a staff that includes at least one former best barman in Serbia winner. More than a bar, it's also the national headquarters of the Barmen Association, and as such also provides info on various trainings and courses that the association organises, and also sells books and equipment for aspiring amateur bartenders.4Open 09:00 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.PRAG Bizzare C-2 Gospodar Jevremova. A small café which is favourite for those who live close by, Bizzare is an ideal place to go for chatting over a cup of coffee during the daytime, or for cocktails to the beat of house music in the evenings. It takes a 4-5 minute stroll to get there from the city centre. Together with the outdoor space of the adjoining café, this is a safe haven for those who don’t fancy the ostentatious atmosphere of the near-by street, Strahinjića Bana. If circumstances allow, the fun-loving waiters will dance on their own in the empty café, and if there’s a crowd, the guests will dance on the street with their drinks in hand. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. B Blowup Bar C-2, Despota Stefana 36a, tel. (+381) 63 441 655, www.blowupbar.com. Taking its name from Michelangelo Antonioni's 1966 avant-garde film set in swinging London, the bar attracts a hip crowd with its eclectic library, film nights, cool staff and frequent performances that range from DJs and bands to magicians, painters and burlesque shows. Of course there's also a full bar as well as coffee, tea and light snacks. 4Open Daily 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. PAER Bordel C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 6, tel +381 63 351 388 A dark and moody lounge-type affair in old town, Bordel is one of our favourite places to grab a couple of post-dinner drinks before moving on to a proper club. DJs spin a wide mix of music ranging from acid jazz and soul during the day to house and NuDisco as the night wears on. If possible try to get a table upstairs where the seats are more comfortable, and atmosphere a little more intimate.4Open 10:00 - 02:00. RP Cafe Buena Vista Turgenjeva 5, tel (+381) 11 355 69 55, www.cafebuenavista.rs. With warm colours, worn wooden furniture and tile floors, there's a lot to like at this Cuban-themed café. While the cocktail menu is one of the most extensive in the city, the real stand-out here is the coffee drinks which number over 30 in all, as well as the traditionally served tea. Of course if you're just looking for a laid-back place with an original vibe to enjoy a cigar and a chat, they can help with that too. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00 PBER

Clubbing in Belgrade can be a black tie affair

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Cruise Sava Quay (block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75 10, www.cruise.rs. A floating cocktail bar on the Sava. During the day, it’s a casual spot beside the river for drinks and decent food prepared on the premises, and with soft music in the background. In the evenings, it turns into a loud place bursting with life, with cocktails prepared by one of the November-December 2010

Nightlife

best barmen in town. It’s pretty much impossible to order a cocktail here which the waiters haven’t heard of. The staff are friendly and greet costumers with broad smiles on their faces. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. PTBRASG

Drinka C-2, Kosovska 33. tel. (+381) 11 303 77 94. A two-level café with a warm homey atmosphere, upstairs you'll find people chatting over coffee or wine, while on the more intimate lower level a DJ is usually spinning jazz. The café actively promotes young artists, with rotating installations of paintings, photographs and sculptures, and you'll notice that the chandeliers are made from recycled materials (a holdover from the location's previous occupants). 4Open Daily 09:00 - 02:00. PABR Informbiro C-2, Studentski Trg 11, tel. (+381) 11 262 94 91. Located a few steps off Knez Mihailova, the city's main pedestrian street, Informbiro is known as the club of the Belgrade Philharmonic. You can purchase tickets to various concerts and theatrical performances along with your espresso or cocktail, and the ceiling has been signed by every member of the orchestra. Despite its decidedly upmarket connections, the place maintains a laid-back atmosphere and is popular with locals from open till close. 4Open 08:30 - 02:00. PABR Marshall Pub D-1 Ćirila i Metodija 2, (+381) 11 386

24 48. The perfect place for those who like English pubs. The primarily wooden interior features a display of around fifty beer mugs from all over the globe. Apart from the good choice of draught and bottled beer, they offer snacks - pizzas, salads, sandwiches... During the day most of the visitors are students from near-by university... 4Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00-01:00. PABE

Mercedes bar C-2, Dalmatinska 3, tel. (+381) 11 324

34 03. Everything in this café, which used to be a Mercedes parts shop, is reminiscent of the world famous automobile manufacturer. The fully stocked bar serves a variety of alcoholic drinks as well as impressively fancy cocktails and aromatized coffee. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. BPER6

Plato C-2, Vasina 19, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. Here

you can find a bookstore, restaurant, and club with live music (mostly jazz and Latino) - all in one. The outdoor terrace is well-known for its lounge chairs and laid-back atmosphere, but it also includes a section with standard chairs too. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PBAREG

century - the bar's two terraces are prime people-watching platforms. The warm wood and brick interior is a quiet place to relax during a long day of sightseeing, but get crowded at night with locals, expats and tourists downing beers and cocktails till well after midnight. 4Open Daily 11:00 - 02:00. PB

The Three Carrots Irish pub C-2, Kneza Miloša 16,

tel. (+381) 11 268 37 48. Perhaps the only real ‘pub’ in Belgrade, the Three Carrots boasts uber friendly bar staff, the odd complimentary drink for the regulars perched up on the stools next to the beer taps and is arguably the one place you can go to on your own in the city without feeling like a social leper. Though it is a magnet for Belgrade’s ex-pat community, the locals still very much form the majority of the clientele, which is not always the case in other capitals. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. AGPL

Clubs

20/44 Club B-2, Savski Kej bb. Named for Belgrade's map coordinates, 20/44 is one of the city's more musically diverse and atmospheric clubs. With a décor described by its music director as resembling a bordello from the '80s, depending on the night of the week you can expect to hear anything ranging from Turkish disco to American funk to Bosnian folk songs rocking the moorings of the somewhat ramshackle houseboat located next to Branko's Bridge. 4Open 19:00 - 04:00. PERA Akademija C-2, Rajićeva 10, tel. (+381) 64 647 88 70,

www.akademija.net. The legendary Belgrade underground club - considered among the top ten in Europe during the 1980s. It is situated in the dark basement of the Fine Arts College. The space is divided into two different clubs - one large and one small - playing different kinds of music. The DJs perform in a metal cage, there are pin-ball machines in the corners, and the most popular drink is beer. Local alternative bands and foreign rock bands perform here. Admission €2.55.5.4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PERALB

Bitef Art café C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 63 59 42 94, www.bitefartcafe.co.rs. With live performances from some great club bands, this club is the all-time favourite of funk, soul and jazz enthusiasts in the city. Even though the space is somewhat confined, there’s enough room to sit or stand. The karaoke evenings are especially popular, and they include both competitions and performances. 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PAE

Rakia bar C-2, Dobračina 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 61 19,

Blaywatch A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb. A popular, floating night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 04:00, Closed Sun. BEL

Red bar C-2, Skadarska 17. Located in the middle of

Brodić B-3, Belgrade Fair, A popular, floating night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the

www.rakiabar.com. A tiny bar that serves 130 different types of Serbian rakija (brandy), all different in aroma, strength and therapeutic qualities and is served with a variety of snacks. Though this is ideally the place to stop by on your way to dinner for a shot or two to boost your appetite, the cheerful laughter of the guests will tell you that stopping after the first round is no easy task, and that you are likely to forget all about your original plans for the evening. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PBA Skadarlija - Belgrade's cobbled throwback to the late 19th

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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Nightlife

beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. BS

Dobrila C-2, Dobračina 30, tel. (+381) 11 262 58 69,

(+381) 69 362 74 52. A quiet restaurant during the day, like many places in Belgrade after sunset it changes into a lively bar, which tends to attract a trendy older crowd who appreciate quality alcohol and cocktails, and like to listen to good music with their friends. Live DJs and bands perform from Wednesday to Saturday. 4Open Daily 09:00 - 02:00. PAE

Francuska Sobarica & Klub Batler C-2, Francuska 12, arhitektstudio@gmail.com. While glamour is the norm at most of the Belgrade's nightlife venues, these two underground clubs (both literally and figuratively) just down the street from Trg Republike provide a welcome alternative for the more alternative crowd. A small passageway, which may or may not be manned by bouncers collecting a nominal (100-220 RSD) cover charge, leads to a central courtyard with a club down stairs on either side. Expect lots of Drum & Bass, dubstep and various electro, along with hip hop some nights. 4Open 22:00-04:00 PAB6 Havana C-2, Nikole Spasića 1, tel. (+381) 11 328 31 08. This was once one of Belgrade’s most beautiful cafés. In the course of the past few years it’s become a little shabby. However, it still manages to attract attention with its massive bar area and huge selection of beverages from all parts of the world. The dance evenings are particularly popular: the Salsa evening is on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and the Argentine Tango evening on Thursday. A snug dance podium and dim lighting make it the perfect place for dance enthusiasts. During summer, the dancing takes place out in the open - on the attractive and spacious patio.4Open 10:00 - 04:00. PBA Idiot C-2, Dalmatinska 13. This miniature club is a frequent meeting place for artists and other wacky individuals. It is often so packed that people have to stand in the street holding their drinks. During the day, its small open terrace looking out to the Botanical Gardens is frequently visited by students having their first “morning coffee” at around 14:00. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PB Magacin 3 B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11

06271 58 48. This is arguably the most exclusive night club in town and a real magnet for city slickers and women who like to be seen in up market places. The arrogant security staff will make it as difficult as possible for you to get in, especially if you don’t have a reservation. But if you do manage to get passed them, you will be greeted by an unusual interior, combining the coarseness of concrete walls with the delicacy of satin curtains and silver candle holders. The unisex restroom provides additional opportunities for meeting people in an unusual way. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PA

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November-December 2010

Nightlife

level, Mint, is kind of a lounge bar where you will find fans of all ages who are into electronic music. The club is so popular that there is often a swarm of people in front waiting to try and get in. Entrance fees depend on the event. 4Open Daily 23:30 - 06:00. PAE Belgrade’s legendary club scene

Mr Stefan Brown C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (+381) 65

556 64 56. Located on the ninth storey of a commercial building. Here you will find a lovely view of the city, different types of cocktails, and a large bar in the centre of the club, sturdy enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing guests. The club features various theme nights depending on the day of the week, but it’s definitely not an appropriate spot for those below the age of twenty. The club is often packed, so try to get there before 01:00, or they might not let you in. 4Open Daily 23:00 - 07:00. P

Povetarac B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (+381) 63 57 71 32.

An old cargo ship permanently docked on the bank of the Sava river. The deck is perfect place to loaf around while enjoying a beer and listening to terrific music. The people are upbeat and the atmosphere is cosy. The evenings are reserved for DJ performances and occasionaly live music. On rainy days, the fun continues in the ship hull. Since it is situated in a rather remote part of the river bank-away from public transport, the punters have to rely on taxis to get there. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00 (20:00 - 04:00 at winter). PBGE

74. Designed by noted nightspot architect Djordje Gec, this bar-cum-club is divided between two levels, upstairs there's a long bar with colourful somewhat futuristic furniture and design, while the basement below opts for cave-like aesthetics. Music takes centre stage here with a mix of disco, funk, jazz and house, and separate DJ booths downstairs. 4Open Daily 10:00 - 04:00. PA

Public Affair B-2, Karadjordjeva 9, tel. (+381) 64 873 75 70. Only operating at the weekends, this newly opened New York themed club has already become a hit with Belgrade's clubbers. Once past the red carpet, velvet ropes and mirrored stairway leading to the basement, the place is actually a bit more laid back than you might assume - with faux graffiti on the walls and enough Serbian hipsters to make a Brooklyn transplant feel at home. While reservations aren't required, they're never a bad idea.4Open Fri, Sat 00:00 - 04:30.PE

Ona a ne neka druga Grobljanska 9, tel. (+381) 63

Reka Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. (+381) 11 261 16 25,

Mladost B-2, Karadjordjeva 44, tel. (+381) 64 113 07

745 40 00. A small bistro in the Gardoš area of Zemun, where good times are guaranteed. It is dedicated to women and men are only allowed to come in if they have female companion. The waiters are all men. Women (only) are allowed to break glasses and give waiters an appreciative pinch. The interior is quite charming, and the fact that the bistro is often jam-packed and stuffy doesn’t stop the guests from getting up on the benches and dancing with joy to the sounds of live music that is frequently performed here.4Open 21:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue. PUBEAL

Plastic C-2, Corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska

St., tel. (+381) 11 324 54 37. www.club-plastic.com. Famous for its futuristic setting and pulsating sounds of of electronic music often played by foreign DJs, Plastic is one of the most popular places among Belgrade's youth. Live gigs are also performed here occasionally. The club is divided into two levels. The lower, bigger level Plastic is mostly frequented by a younger crowd who enjoy listening to the sounds of mainstream house, pop and R&B. The upper

Casinos Grand Casino A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 220 28 00, www.casino-beograd.com. The largest area offering games of chance in South-Eastern Europe is located in Hotel Jugoslavija, on the Danube Quay. Besides tables (Black Jack, Roulette, Poker, Three Cards Poker, Punto Banco, Texas Hold’em) and slot machines, the complex provides three excuisite restaurants, Roulette Bar, Piano Bar, a VIP area and luxury jewelry Gift Shop. 4Open 24hrs. PUKAEL Belgrade In Your Pocket

www.reka.co.rs. A fish restaurant in Zemun on the bank of the Danube and more famous for the good time it offers than for its cuisine. The restaurant is very popular, so it is advisible to make a reservation. There is live music every night, which consist mainly of Serbian and international pop hits which get plenty of the customers onto their feet. The friendly atmosphere makes it seem as if the guests actually know one another personaly. A 3€ music charge is added to the bill.4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PBAE

ŠKD C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 7, tel. (+381) 69 699

096. An underground club - both figuratively and literally other than a small plaque with the Cyrillic letters ШКД just outside the basement-level door, there's little to clue you on the party going on inside. Dark and smokey with low-ceilings and a small dance floor, things don't get going here till well after midnight. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE

Tramvaj D-3, Ruzveltova 2, tel. (+381) 11 380 82 69. Live band performances each and every night of the week jazz, blues, funk and Latino music. The beer is cheap, and the people who come here are mainly students looking for a fun night out. A laid-back atmosphere but non-smokers may find this place stuffy bit. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE The Tube C-2, Simina 21, tel. (+381) 64 508 22 72,

www.thetube.rs. Located in the basement/former nuclear shelter of a postwar building in downtown Belgrade. The Architect, Đorđe Gec has created areas which interconnect with one another fluidly throughot the whole of the 350m² of space. The music is eclectic but mostly based on funk, house, nu jazz and techno played by famous foreign and Serbian DJs. The admission charge depends on the event, but it is free most of the time. 4Open 22.00 – 05.00. PAE

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What to see market is lined with bakeries, pastry houses, restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this wonderful place before the end of the year as proposed renovations aim to make it look like a supermarket with a glass facade. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Kosančićev Venac Street B-2. A stroll down this cobbled

street will conjure up the spirit of Old Belgrade. It is located on a hill above the Sava River Port, where a Serbian settlement developed outside the fortress walls in the Middle Ages. Today, it features art studios, galleries, cafés, the main building of the College of Arts and the remains of the National Library, which was destroyed in 1941 by Luftwaffe bombing and an entire collection of books and priceless medieval manuscripts in the Cyrillic alphabet along with it. The street is named after a Serbian hero from the Kosovo Battle of 1389.

The battlements of Belgrade Fortress at night

Essential Belgrade

Belgrade fortress B-1. Located on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed destroyed nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th century on a plateau in front of the fortress, which was cleared for centuries to allow for an unobstructed view of the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its many shaded benches, random sculptures, an art pavilion, zoo, amusement park and souvenir vendors. It is a favourite haunt for chess players, squirrels and couples in love. Most of the preserved fortress ramparts and gates are located in the Upper Town, as well as the Military Museum, St. Petka and Ružica churches, Roman Well (an intriguing building whose eerie waters have claimed many lives) and the symbol of Belgrade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the statue of Pobednik offers stunning views over the rivers and incredible sunsets. The Lower Town on the banks of the Danube was the main city centre in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls and had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula Nebojša (Daredevil Tower) from 1460, the Turkish Bath from the 18th century (which today houses a planetarium) and the Gate of Carl VI from 1736. No admission fee. 4Open 24 hrs.

Knez Mihailova Street C-2. The main promenade and shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to the throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street. Republic Square C-2. The main city square which features the National Theatre (completed in 1869), the National Museumand a monument to Prince Mihailo, which was erected in 1882. The area is popular with Belgraders as a meeting point. It was once the location of the infamous Stambol Gate, which was the main entrance to the Belgrade Fortress. Today this square hosts concerts, demonstrations and various other events. The National Museum is closed to visitors because it does not have the right conditions for displaying the artefacts and the current reconstruction process will take several years. So, unfortunately you will not be able to see the large collection of international paintings (particularly of the impressionists) stored at the museum, or its most valued treasure - Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (the Miroslav Gospel), the oldest preserved manuscript in the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet (from 1190) with its very rich adornments. Skadarlija C-2, Skadarska Street. A vintage street that dates from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The

Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb. The biggest open-air market in Belgrade is a vibrant place which valiantly fights off the competition from the supermarkets. Besides the obvious fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs, fish and seafood, honey, pickles and craftwork, you will find national delicacies such as ‘sir’ (cottage cheese) and ‘kajmak’ (clotted cream). Take a walk through the colourful stands, chat with the vendors and you will be given fruit, cheese or prosciutto to taste for free. You will also learn that fruit and vegetables of perfect shape and colour, that have come straight from greenhouses and ‘have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily disdained. Those with a beautifully fresh scent, sold by elderly women in headscarves, are vastly preferred. If you get hungry, you can buy grilled lobster and a bread roll for 200 dinars. The

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Kalemegdan's Pobednik monument

November-December 2010

What to see Jewish Belgrade The Book of Esther is recited in Belgrade on the 15th day of Adar (Shushan Purim). Ashkenazi Jews, who migrated from central Europe, settled over the centuries along the Sava River. Following the 1492 expulsion from Spain, the Sephardic Jews settled in the Belgrade area of Dorćol. Just before WW2, the Belgrade Jews, like Serbs, were divided over their loyalties to the King and to Communism. There were divisions even among Jewish masons, some of whom belonged to the Serbian Lodge and others to Jewish Bene Berith Lodge in Belgrade. During WW2, under German occupation, Belgrade Jews suffered a terrible fate and the city underwent the infamy of being the first in Europe to be proclaimed as Judenfrei. The Baruh Brothers Choir, founded in 1879 as a Serbo-Jewish Singing Society, is still active. Before WW2, the Jewish community in Belgrade was about 12,000 strong, and today about 2,200 Jews live in Belgrade Jewish Cemetery D-2, Mije Kovačevića 1, tel. 276 82 50. A Sephardic Cemetery dating from 1888, it was later expanded and became Jewish Cemetery. The Ashkenazi Cemetery, located across the road in the New Cemetery, is no longer in function. Jewish Community of Belgrade C-1 (founded in 1866), Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 42 89 Jewish Community of Zemun (founded in 1739), Dubrovačka 21, tel. (+381) 11 19 56 26 Jewish Historical Museum C-1, Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 26 34. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Synagogue C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 19. Built in 1926 by the Ashkenazi Jews. Two Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century, it became a hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters, and actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for the higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menus. The evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the mill food and indifferent waiters.

closed to the public for some time now but is well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old part of Zemun, is such a quaint and romantic place. Only the twittering of swallows interrupts the calm of the narrow, cobbled streets and rows of low-slung houses. Gardoš features a broad range of small cafés and fish restaurants and the plateau in front of the tower offers magnificent views of the city.

Princess Ljubica’s Residence B-2, Kneza Sime

Markovića 8, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 64. A representative building dating from the first half of the 19th century. Built on the orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović for his family, Princess Ljubica and sons Milan and Mihailo, and completed in 1831. The permanent exhibition includes original furniture made in various styles of the 19th century: Biedermaier, Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo and Oriental. It hosts themed exhibitions in the basement, in the Vaults Hall. Admission 100 dinars, students, pupils, unemployed and pensioners 50 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Royal compound Located on top of Dedinje hill, the compound covers an area of 135 hectares. It includes a Royal Palace, which was completed in 1929, and a White Palace that was finished in 1936 and was intended for the King’s sons, along with service buildings. A tour of the royal compound includes a visit to the representative sections of both palaces (and a display of artwork by Poussin, Breughel, Canaletto, Veronese, Rembrandt), a chapel, royal park and the grave of Davorjanka Paunović (the secretary to and greatest love of Josip Broz Tito, who abolished the monarchy and moved into the royal compound when he came to power). Nowadays, this is again one of the Karađorđević family’s homes. They are: HRH Crown Prince Aleksandar II, Princess Katherine, Hereditary Prince Petar and Princes Filip and Aleksandar. The guided tour takes 2 hours. Information and registration at: Tourist Information Centre, Makedonska 5, tel. (+381) 11 334 34 60.

Historic buildings

Kafana ‘?’ B-2, Kralja Petra 6. This authentic Serbian

tavern of an unusual name is located in one of the oldest houses in the city. Erected in 1823, it opened as a tavern in 1826, and was the first to install a billiard table in Belgrade, in 1834. There is still a wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes in one of the corners. Great for national cuisine and draught beer. The tavern has a summer terrace, and you can always hear the lively buzz of conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBA

Millennium Tower Located on Gardoš, approached by

a path leading from Grobljanska Street, Millennium Tower was built by the Hungarians in 1896 to celebrate a thousand years of their presence in the Pannonian Plain. Four such towers were erected on the border and this one marks the southernmost corner of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It was built on the ruins of a 15th century fortress and has been

Belgrade In Your Pocket

A bird's eye view of Skadarlija Street

Hot Air Balloons Salvadora Aljendea br. 5, tel. (+381) 64 822 0408, office@balonservis.rs, www.balonservis.rs Take in the views of Belgrade from 1,000m above with a 60-90 minute ride in a hot air balloon. Pricing depends on the number of passengers (with a capacity of up to four), and trips are available every day of the year, weather permitting. Call for more information.

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What to see Behaviour in the church When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only.

Cathedral Church B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića bb.

The main church in the city, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was built on the site of a former cathedral, dating from the 16th century, which was repeatedly demolished and desecrated by the Ottoman Turks. The church contains the holy remains of the Serbian saint Emperor Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house) and it is the burial site of some of the most important figures in Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and the Serbian rulers of the Obrenović dynasty - Miloš, Mihailo and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a gold-plated carved iconostasis. Across from the church is the seat of the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church, a building completed in 1935.

Mosque

St Mark's Church

Historic Churches

St. Mark’s Church C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17.

Constructed between 1931 and 1940 in the Serbo-Byzantine style, next to an old church from 1835 which was destroyed during bombing in 1941. The decoration of the church interior was abandoned due to the war and it is still unfinished. The church houses some of the most valuable Serbian icons and a sarcophagus with the remains of Serbian Emperor Stefan Dušan inside.

St. Petka’s Chapel B-1, Belgrade Fortress. This

contemporary church was built in 1937, above a miraculous spring. In the Middle Ages, this was the site of a church where the holy remains of St. Petka’s (Paraskevi) were placed until 1521. The chapel still guards the saint’s hand, and the ill come to wash their faces during spring. St Petka is much venerated among Belgraders.

St. Sava Temple C-3, Svetosavski trg. St. Sava

(1169-1236) was the first Archbishop of Serbia. The temple is built on the site where his remains were burned by the Ottoman Turks in 1594. The design to build the temple was created in 1894 and the construction began in 1936, only to be interrupted with Germany’s attack on Yugoslavia in 1941. It recommenced in 1985, on securing consent from the state. The interior of the church is currently being decorated. St. Sava Temple is the largest place of worship for the Serbian people and can receive 10,000 people at any one time. Its base is 91 x 81m, and its central dome, weighing 4,000 tons, is 70m high, with the main gold-plated cross extending for another 12m, making it the highest peak in Belgrade.

Baryakli Mosque C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 11, tel. 262 24 28. Built during Ottoman rule, around 1575. It was named Baryakli after a baryak (flag) which was raised to signal the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all the mosques of Belgrade. The only mosque still functioning in Belgrade.

Cemeteries

New Cemetery D-2, Ruzveltova 50, tel. (+381) 11 207

13 00. Founded in 1886, this is the oldest existing cemetery in Belgrade. Its origins are linked to the relocation of the Old Cemetery, which once occupied the site of the present-day Tašmajdan Park. Many important figures in Serbian history scientists, artists, military leaders, statesmen - were buried here. Quite a number of gravestones are fine works of art in their own right and were created by well-known sculptors. Part of the site is occupied by French, Italian, Russian, Bulgarian and Austro-Hungarian military cemeteries from WW1 and the English Military Cemetery from WW2. 4Open 07:00 - 19:00

Parks & Gardens

Jevremovac Botanic Garden C-2, entrance at the

corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska Streets. A perfect spot to take a break from the bustle of the city. Founded in 1874, covering an area of 5 hectares, it is home to diverse plants from all over the world, a conservatory constructed in 1892 and a Japanese garden. Admission 120 dinars. Children under 7, pregnant women and students - admission free. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Košutnjak Spread out over a hill that is 250m high, this 330 hectare forest park used to be the royal hunting grounds until 1903, when it was opened to the public. The forest, a

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November-December 2010

What to see mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees, is crisscrossed with numerous trim trails and nature walks and there are picnic tables in the clearings for the overwhelming majority who prefer to just sit and enjoy a barbeque. The Košutnjak Sports Centre features an indoor and five outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a football pitch and volleyball and basketball facilities. There are a number of restaurants beneath shady trees and a spring at the foot of the hill, whose water is safe to drink.

Park of Pioneers C-2. Opened to the public in 1944, this

park was once a palace garden. It is laid out between the Old Palace and the New Palace, the Old Palace being the residence of Obrenović royal line and the present city hall, which was completed in 1884. The park was demolished during both world wars and post-war renovations changed its appearance considerably. The New Palace, a residence of the Karađorđević dynasty, was completed in 1921 and today houses the official seat of the President of Serbia. The park features an observation post of the HQ of the Serbian Army from WW1, relocated from the Salonika Front.

Tašmajdan Park C-2. A favourite place for parents and

nannies to take their children for a walk. The park is laid out between St. Mark’s Church, the Russian Church, the Central Post Office (built in 1934), the Children’s Cultural Centre, Duško Radović children’s theatre, the children’s amusement park, a sports centre featuring indoor and outdoor swimming pools and the main building of the state-run TV company (hit during NATO’s 1999 bombing). In 1830, the Ottoman Sultan’s charter on the internal independence of Serbia was read out at Tašmajdan. Since Roman times it served as a quarry deep bellow the ground and doubled as a cemetery above (Tašmajdan means quarry in Turkish). The cemetery was relocated to the present New Cemetery in the late 19th century. The cave and caverns below the park (an area of about 3,000m², up to 10m in height) were once used as food

depots, for military arsenals and as shelters. Regrettably, tours of these fascinating underground chambers are not available at present.

Topčider Park A great place to spend a sunny afternoon. Prince Miloš Obrenović set about developing the park in 1831, by furnishing it with royal necessities: a residence, a church, barracks and a tavern. The residence was completed in 1834, and that is where the Prince lived his last years and where he died. When the residence was finished, the area was planted with plane-trees, the biggest of which is protected by the state and is 44m high, with a crown diameter of 50m. It casts shade of 1,400 sqm. You can ride round the park in a carriage and have scrumptious roasted lamb on the terrace of Milošev Konak Restaurant. The park hosts a monument to the Swiss professor, publicist and criminologist Archibald Reiss (1876-1930), who arrived in Serbia as a member of a team inquiring into the atrocities committed by the Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian army in Serbia during WW1, and stayed to live in Belgrade, where he founded the Belgrade police crime lab.

Museums

The 25th of May Museum Botićeva 6, tel. tel.

(+381) 11 367 14 85. The museum is home to the House of Flowers, which is Josip Broz Tito‘s mausoleum. The items on show include Tito’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V dating from 1960, the precious gifts he received from people from all over the world, his 106 international and local decorations, an astonishing collection of 20,000 different relay batons presented ceremonially to Tito by Communist Party of Yugoslavia pioneers on his birthday, (celebrated on May 25th) following weeks of relay running around the whole country. Although this museum attracts more visitors than any other in Belgrade, due to widespread fascination with Tito, its collections are inadequately displayed and sometimes

Belgrade’s oldest tree and Milošev konak, located in Topčider’s Park

Belgrade In Your Pocket

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What to see Mountain Avala

wheelchair friendly. Admission 150 dinars, students and children 60 dinars. Sun: admission free. 4Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Military Museum B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.(+381) 11 334 34 41. Founded in 1878. The larger part of the old collection was carried off by the Germans in WW2. The remaining items span ancient to modern times (weapons, armour, wartime flags, paintings, photographs, equipment, uniforms and decorations). There is a permanent display within the museum building, while on the outside, artillery weapons from the 18th-20th century and armoured vehicles line the ramparts and trenches of the fortress. The most recent acquisitions include a Humvee captured from the US Army in 1999. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Museum of Aviation Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. (+381) 11 319 19 37. Founded in 1957, this museum owns various types of aircraft, engines, equipment, aircraft models and photographs. The exhibits are displayed within what is an architecturally striking building, and in the surrounding patio. This place is valued world-wide for its collection of WW2 fighter aircraft, which include a Messerchmitt Me109, Hurricane Mk IV, Spitfire Mk Vc, Yak-3, Illushin IL-2, Thunderbolt P-47 and the only surviving Fiat G-50 in the world. It houses the remains of the only downed F-117 Nighthawk stealth fighter in the world, a wreckage of a US F-16 and cruise missiles and unmanned aircraft shot down in 1999. Admission 200 dinars, children 170 dinars, foreigners 450 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 09:00 - 15:30. Museum of Automobiles C-2, Majke Jevrosime 30, Located some 16km from the city centre, though entirely within the municipality of Belgrade, at 511 metres Mount Avala earns its title by a scant eleven metres but owing to the surrounding lowlands it still provides beautiful panoramic views of the city and beyond. The mountain has been protected as a nature reserve since 1859 by the order of Prince Miloš Obrenović of Serbia, who originally intended to have it surrounded by a massive fence, and has served as a recreational area for the residents of Belgrade for even longer. Aside from an abundance of animal species the mountain is also known for its diverse plant life, which includes some 600 species of flowers, herbs and trees - many of which are also protected due to their rarity. Man-made sights can also be found in abundance on the mountain, including the Monument to the Unknown Hero (completed in 1938 and dedicated to the unknown Serbian soldier from World War I), a Memorial Park (in honour of the victims of World War II), the Monument to Soviet War Vetrans (commemorating Red Army officers killed in a plane crash on Avala in 1964) and the Monument of Vasa Čarapić (one of the leaders of the First Serbian Uprising in 1804, which liberated Belgrade from the Turks). The mountain is well-connected to the city centre by public transport, and is most easily reached by bus from the Trošarina neighbourhood. inaccessible to visitors. No guided tours. Admission: 200 dinars 4Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Ethnographic Museum C-1, Studentski trg 13,

tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88. The permanent display here features a rich collection of folk costumes, kilims, craftwork, tools, furniture, old photos depicting folk rites and jewellery. Themed exhibitions are mounted from time to time. There is a souvenir and handiwork shop. Levels one and three are

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tel. (+381) 11 303 46 25. There are around 40 old-timers on permanent display, part of a collection owned by Bratislav Petković. The museum is appropriately housed in the first public garage in the city, which was built in 1929. The oldest automobile is a Marot-Gardon from 1897. In addition to the old-timers (all in working order), the museum features a large collection of racing motorcycles, photographs, equipment and a souvenir shop. You are not allowed to take pictures. Admission 100 dinars, students 80 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon.

Nikola Tesla Museum D-3, Krunska 51, tel: (+381) 11 243 38 86, info@tesla-museum.org, www.teslamuseum.org. Nikola Tesla (1856–1943), a Serbian inventor, scientist and electrical engineer, who made revolutionary contributions to the discipline of electricity and magnetism. He is the inventor of the AC current, the three-phase system of power transmission, induction motor, high-frequency power generators and transformers, pioneer of MRI, robotics, wireless communications and remote control technologies. In 1943, the Supreme Court of the United States credited him as being the inventor of the radio. The unit for measuring magnetic field was named tesla in his honour. The museum houses his personal legacy, scientific papers and the urn with his ashes. Demonstrations of his experiments are available for pre-registered group visits. Admission 100/200 RSD, for locals/foreigners. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 15:00, Closed Mon. Yugoslav Film Archive C-2, Kosovska 11 (cinema),

tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50. Founded in 1949, the archive is considered to be one of the five most important in the world. Its collections include over 95,000 copies of national and international films, posters, photographs, scripts and artefacts, such as the Lumiere brother’s camera No. 335 from 1896. Film buffs will enjoy daily shows of art films from the archives.

November-December 2010

Mail & Phones Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988

Posting a letter

The postal code for Belgrade is 11000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with the logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.

Post

Post Office 1 C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 324 34 81. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 3 C-2, Zmaj Jovina 17, tel. (+381) 11 321 00 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 6 C-2, Savska 2, tel. (+381) 11 3643 117. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Post Office 8 Glavna 8, tel. (+381) 11 371 40 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 123 A-1, Bulevar umetnosti 4-6 (Mercator Shopping Centre), tel. (+381) 11 311 68 47. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Mobile phones

There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets and in the case of the MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 7, tel. 064 789. www. mts.telekom.rs Telenor C-2, Kosovska 49, tel. 063 98 63. www. telenor.co.rs Vip mobile C-2, Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 060 12 34. www.vipmobile.rs

WiFi Hotspots

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel: (+381) 11 364 06 25. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00

Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel (+381) 11 262 58 39. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

Cantina de Frida B-2, Karadjordjeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00

Express Mail

DHL Jurija gagarina 36v, tel. (+381) 11 310 55 00. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. FedEx Autoput 22, tel. (+381) 11 314 90 75. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Post Express C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Serbia. 4Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. UPS Nikola Tesla airport, tel. (+381) 11 228 64 22. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

City Express Mail

Beo Messenger C-3, Birčaninova 8, tel. (+381) 11 264 69 73. 4Open 08:30 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

BG info Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11

38 300 50. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. City runner Vidikovački venac 96, tel. (+381) 11 369 94 70. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

Making a phonecall

When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Belgrade is 011). You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minutes with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying a Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

To call a local number within Belgrade, dial the number directly and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (00), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number.

Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. (+381)

11 303 68 67. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00 Cruise Sava Quay (Block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75 10. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00 Hot Spot Café C-1, Studentski trg 21, tel. (+381) 11 263 92 05. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 31. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00 Lava Bar C-3, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 25. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00 Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328 89 95. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00 Living C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel. (+381) 11 291 01 35. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381) 11 334 86 90. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Metropolitan Grill B-2 Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30 Municipality of New Belgrade A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 167. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Salvadore Dali C-2, Hilandarska 20, tel. (+381) 11 334 37 78. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Plato C-2, Akademski plato 1, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00 Sport Café C-2, Makedonska 4, tel. (+381) 11 324 31 77. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00 Student Park C-2. 4Open 24hrs.

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Getting around Public transport

Belgrade does not have an underground railway system and it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (although it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, at 42m below ground level). City transport comprises buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buses are operated by a public utility company controlled by the city council and a number of private companies, which accounts for the differences in shape, colour and age of the buses out on the streets. There are only single-ride tickets, available at most kiosks at a flat rate of 42 dinars (regardless of the form of transport). You can also buy a ticket on board, from the driver, for 80 dinars. You have to validate your ticket once you get on board, by punching it with a ticket validator, installed near each door. A ride without a valid ticket is fined 3 000 dinars. Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:00 to 00:00. During night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals from 00:10 to 02:10. Night buses depart from special stops at the Republic Square towards other parts of the city. The night fare is 74 dinars, available on board. You are advised to avoid trams if you are in a hurry, because one broken tram blocks an entire line (or two), and this invariably happens right in the middle of two stops, in pouring rain. Belgrade public transport is generally efficient. In the Old Town, a bus may prove to be faster than a car, because most streets have bus-only lanes.

Taxis Quite a few taxi operators in Belgrade are reckless drivers who hate to take passengers on short rides (e.g. from Slavija to Terazije). A taxi must display the name of its taxi company and its ID number. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the airport and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Taxi fare in Belgrade is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 119 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 46 dinars at the low tariff (Mon to Sat 06:00 - 22:00) or 52 dinars at the high tariff (Mon to Sat 22:00 - 06:00, Sunday and public holidays). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. Beogradski taksi’ taxi company (Tel. 9801) uses normal daily rates for services rendered at night, on weekends and public holidays. They also offer fixed, attractive rates to the airport. There is usually no extra charge for the luggage but if the taxi driver feels entitled to make that charge, he would have to state so at the outset, or you are not obliged to pay it. A tip is not required but is appreciated, so you may round off the fare. Pets are transported with the driver’s consent. Many Belgraders like to sit next to the driver and have a nice chat. You can ask the taxi driver about hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers but you can request a non-smoking vehicle, or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette.

Trusted taxi companies Beotaxi tel.(+381) 11 970 Beogradski taxi tel. (+381) 11 9801 Lux taxi tel. (+381) 11303 31 23 NBA taxi tel. (+381) 11318 57 77 Pink taxi tel. (+381) 119803 belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Trains

Central Railway Station B -2, Savski trg 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 -28 -99 (00:00 -24:00). www. serbianrailways.com. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world), or Romantika Train (steam locomotive and authentic 1st, 2nd and 3rd class carriages from the early 20th century that take you for journeys outside Belgrade) - see the Serbian Railways website for more information. Train tickets Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Central Railway Station and at: Putnik, C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 1, tel. (+381) 11 324 56 42. Rekreaturs, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 3, tel. (+381) 11 323 05 58 Wasteels, B-2, Central Railway Station, tel. (+381) 11 265 88 68

Airlines

Aeroflot B-5, Knez Mihailova 30/3, tel. (+381) 11 328 60 71, begtosu@aeroflot.ru, www.aeroflot.ru. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Aerosvit B-5, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. (+381) 11 328 82 37, aerosvit@eunet.rs, www.aerosvit.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Air France B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 22. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia B-5, Terazije 43, tel. (+381) 11 324 50 00, www.alitalia.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 (+381) 11 324 80 77, office.belgrade@austrian.com, www.austrian. com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 328 13 03, www.britishairways.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines B-5, Kralja Milana 6, tel. (+381) 11 361 45 92, beg.booking@czechairlines.com, www. czechairlines.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 17, tel. (+381) 11 32 32 372, jatbegto@jat.com, www.jat.com. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Lufthansa B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 49 44, www.lufthansa.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Montenegro Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 23, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 22, www.montenegroairlines.com. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Olympic Airlines B-5, Vase Čarapića 14, tel. (+381) 11 303 67 50, olybeg@eunet.rs, www.olympicairlines. com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Srilankan Airlines C-2, Francuska 17/1, tel. (+381) 11 334 82 64, www.srilankan.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Swiss Air Lines B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 01 40, www.swiss.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 303 61 95, flightacademy@thy.com, www.thy.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. November-December 2010

Getting around Airport

Nikola Tesla airport tel. (+381) 11 209 44 44, www. beg.aero Located 18km to the west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin, likely to claim the title of the foggiest site in Belgrade. Though the sun may be shining brightly above the rest of Belgrade, your flight could still be late due to the fog that often does not venture farther than the airport perimeter. The airport building has been renovated recently but there are still some nooks and crannies where renovation work began only to be left unfinished. Serbia’s national airline is JAT Airways, which operates a fairly old fleet but is nevertheless one of the safest air carriers in the world. At time of writing, Germanwings and Norwegian Air are the only low-cost airlines which fly to Belgrade.

Avio taxi

Air Pink Jove Ilića 13, tel. (+381) 11 391 01 00, www. airpink.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 Prince Aviation A-1, Goce Delčeva 40-42, tel. (+381) 11 303 23 03, www.princeaviation.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Buses

Central Bus Station C-2, Železnička 4, tel. (+381)

11 262 71 46 (local routes), 263 62 99 (international routes), www.zeleznicesrbije.com. Busservices account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns (such as Novi Sad, Niš) running at frequent intervals throughout the day. The bus station is a ramshackle affair, quite unlikely to inspire the urge to linger awhile. Ticket windows are open 24 hrs a day and so are public toilet facilities and a restaurant, whose clientele during the night time is likely to include pickpockets, con-men, prostitutes, drowsy farmers and students waiting for the earliest morning buses, because they have nowhere to stay. The food on offer is overpriced and unsavoury. Arrivals are across the nearby park. Lasta Bus Station B-2, Železnička 2, tel. (+381) 11 334 85 55, www.lasta.rs. Lasta is the largest bus operator in Serbia, a partner of the Eurolines system and runs a large number of local and international lines. Its station is smaller and offers fewer facilities than the Central Bus Station.

Car rental

Avis B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 313 96 16, www.avis.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 70 62, open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Budget A-2, Proleterske solidarnosti 38, tel. (+381) 11 311 30 50, www.budget.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 63 61, open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. City rent a car Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. (+381) 11 225 87 84, www.cityrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, closed Sun Europcar A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 59, tel. (+381) 11 301 50 04, www.europcar.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 90 28, open 08:00 - 22:00. Hertz C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. (+381) 11 320 87 36, www.hertz.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat

Train Schedule From Belgrade Dep. Arr. 10:10 20:09 22:10 07:53 15:55 05:39 07:50 08:25 05:50 17:50 21:40 07:27 07:50 17:00 21:50 07:06 07:50 17:40 21:15 07:15 07:50 21:50 22:00 12:31 21:20 09:00 05:50 12:56 10:35 17:50 21:50 04:50 10:45 08:20

City BAR BAR BUCHAREST ISTANBUL LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA SKOPJE SKOPJE SOFIA SOFIA THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI VIENNA ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH

To Belgrade Dep. Arr. 21:00 06:26 12:20 21:43 21:45 08:54 22:00 19:20 14:40 23:27 08:15 17:20 09:00 18:06 20:45 06:00 11:55 19:20 20:20 04:50 06:00 18:06 17:05 05:45 18:50 06:15 06:06 12:25 09:00 15:38 23:50 06:20 21:40 17:20

Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 064 848 54 02, open 08:00 - 20:00.

UniRent A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 45g, tel. (+381)

11 313 30 09, www.unirent.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 41 40, open 08:00 - 20:00. Yu tim A-2, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 71, tel. (+381) 11 228 61 61, www.yutimrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 61 61, open 08:00 - 20:00. Zim C-2 Čubrina 6-8, tel. (+381) 11 218 58 51, www. zim-rentacar.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Car parks

Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour parking limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You can pay for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the relevant zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English overleaf. Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS message with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone 1, 9112 for Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a confirmation message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use the parking coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for parking in a parking garage, no parking limit applies. You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle of the street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public transport, without suffering any consequences. This occurs with annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27. Marta, Svetogorska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra among others. We do not advise you to follow their example because it is an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.

Limo rental

Limo Service Cara Dušana 173 (Zemun), tel. (063) 123 55 55. Lincoln TownCar (White, Black), Mercedes S 320 CDI.

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Getting around Flight Schedule From Belgrade Days Dep. 1-3----7 08:10 ----5-14:35 ---4--12:40 1-3---07:00 ----5--17:25 12-4-620:00 -2345-7 19:50 --3-5-7 21:00 1-----08:10 ---4--12:35 -2-4--7 13:20 -2-4--7 15:50 -2-4-608:05 ------7 06:30 1--4--20:15 --345-7 07:05 ---4--06:40 ------7 17:00 1-3---14:15 ---4-608:00 -2----7 14:20 1-3-5-7 14:40 --2---16:20 1----622:05 1234567 10:30 1-3-567 13:00 1234--08:20 ----5--15:30 ------7 15:50 1234567 13:05 1234567 16:45 12345-13:05 -2----1345 1234567 09:20 1234567 12:40 --3--67 07:55 1234-67 18:40 1234567 20:55 123---08:30 ---4567 08:40 1234567 07:05 1234567 08:50 1234567 11:40 1-345-7 17:20 1234567 20:50 12345621:20 ------7 21:35 --2---08:20 ----5-7 08:00 -2----13:30 ---4--12:20 ---4--7 18:05 1234567 07:40 --34567 13:25 -234567 10:00 1-----09:10 -2---608:00 ---4--10:15 1234567 08:15 1234567 15:20 1234567 08:15 1234567 16:50 -23-5-15:20 ----5-7 18:00 1234567 14:40

Arr. 10:40 17:05 16:30 09:05 20:05 23:15 23:05 21:50 12:05 15:00 15:30 18:05 10:25 16:45 05:55 09:05 08:55 19:15 17:45 10:35 15:55 17:15 19:20 01:35 12:40 14:55 09:40 16:50 17:10 14:35 18:25 14:35 16:40 12:00 15:10 08:55 19:10 21:35 09:15 09:25 07:50 09:35 13:40 19:05 21:40 22:30 22:30 11:05 10:45 15:25 14:15 21:55 08:45 14:20 10:50 10:00 09:40 11:50 09:50 16:40 09:50 18:25 17:10 19:50 16:35

Destination AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (OA) ATHENS (OA) BANJA LUKA (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) COLOGNE (4U) COLOGNE (4U) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) DUBAI (JU) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (TK) KIEV (VV)LARNAKA (JU) LONDON (JU) LONDON (BA) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (lh) OSLO (DY) PARIS (JU) PARIS (AF) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (OK) ROME (AZ) SARAJEVO (JU) SKOPJE (JU) SKOPJE (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STUTTGART (4U) STUTTGART (4U) TEL AVIV (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (YM) TIVAT (YM) TRIESTE (JU) TRIESTE (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (LX)

To Belgrade Days 1-345-7 ----5----4--1-3-------5-12-4-6--2345-7 -2-4-6-1--------4---2-4--7 -2-4-6------7 -2--5-12---67 -2----123-567 1-3------4-6-2----7 --3-5-7 --2---1----61234567 1-3-567 1234------5-------7 1234567 1234567 12345--2----1234567 1234567 --34--7 1234-67 1234567 123------45-1234567 1234567 1234567 1-345-7 1234567 123456------7 --2-------5-7 -2-------4-----4--7 1234567 --34567 -234567 1------2---6---4--1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1--4--7 ----61234567

Dep. 11:20 17:20 11:25 10:30 20:55 18:00 17:50 06:00 12:55 15:50 10:50 18:30 11:25 17:35 07:35 21:45 22:20 22:15 13:05 19:45 20:00 13:05 12:35 11:30 13:30 08:15 10:30 17:40 18:00 11:05 19:25 11:05 10:05 13:00 09:50 09:30 19:25 06:35 17:40 06:45 08:20 17:40 14:15 14:50 06:20 06:00 06:00 11:55 11:35 11:15 10:05 22:50 09:20 14:55 11:30 07:40 16:05 18:20 13:25 10:55 13:25 19:20 18:00 09:30 12:20

Arr. 13:35 19:35 15:05 11:05 21:30 19:20 19:10 06:50 15:05 19:35 12:50 20:30 13:25 19:45 11:55 23:35 00:10 00:05 14:40 21:20 21:35 14:45 15:30 14:05 17:15 12:00 11:50 19:00 19:20 12:30 20:50 12:30 13:05 15:20 12:20 10:30 20:10 07:20 18:25 07:30 09:05 18:25 16:15 16:30 07:05 07:05 06:50 14:30 14:10 13:00 11:50 00:55 10:25 16:00 12:20 08:30 17:45 19:55 14:35 12:20 14:35 20:45 19:40 11:10 14:00

SU Aeroflot, VV Aerosvit, AF Air France, AZ Alitalia, OS Austrian, BA British Airways, OK Czech Airlines, 4U Germanwings, JU JAT Airways, LH Lufthansa, YM Montenegro Airlines, DY Norwegian Air Shuttle, OA Olympic Airlines, LX Swiss, TK Turkish Airlines. Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. Note: Flight schedule is valid until the end of December. You can learn more at the Belgrade Airport web site: www. beg.aero For more information on JAT flights, please call 0-800-111-528 (toll-free calls from Serbian fixed telephone network), for calls abroad 311 21 23

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

November-December 2010

Getting around

Belgrade In Your Pocket

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Shopping You may be labouring under the impression that Belgrade is a shopper’s paradise, having seen the trendy and chic Belgrade girls, but alas, Belgrade is not as strong in the shopping department as Milan or Paris. Belgrade’s main shopping areas are Knez Mihailova, Terazije, Kralja Milana, and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra streets. Most shops are open between 10:00 and 20:00. The main supermarkets in the Old Town are Maxi and Alonso, both located at the corner of Višnjićeva and Gospodar Jevremova streets (C-1). Larger supermarkets can be found in New Belgrade, on Omladinskih Brigada Street, near Airport City (Idea and Rodić) and on Treći Bulevar Street near Holiday Inn (Super Vero), open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. If you are seized by a sudden urge to go shopping for oregano, underwear or a TV set at 2 o’clock in the morning, go crazy at Tempo, a huge supermarket in New Belgrade, near motorway exits for Novi Sad and Zagreb, open 24 hours. There are small shops selling newspapers, cigarettes, chocolate, spirits and fruit juice throughout the city, open 24hrs.

Shopping centres

Delta City Jurija Gagarina 16. Delta City offers a wide array of shops, a supermarket, multiplex cinema, bowling alley, a variety of fast-food outlets and cafés. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Mercator A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4. Very popular shopping centre housing a self service restaurant, children’s playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post office and a bank open on Sundays. 4Open Daily 09:00 - 22:00. New Millennium C-2 Knez Mihajlova 19-21. Small and cosy, featuring a charming range of boutiques and shoe shops, this shopping centre provides hours of entertainment to anyone who thinks of shopping as a favourite pastime. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Piramida Jurija Gagarina 151. Local shopping centre packed with small boutiques selling clothes, shoes and home accessories. Popular with locals, it offers a casual atmosphere, moderate prices, and proximity to a green market. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9. Spacious foyers and passageways between conference halls feature a range of chic boutiques specialising in clothes and shoes. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Ušće shopping center B -2 , blok 16, w w w. usceshoppingcenter.com. The biggest shopping centre in the heart of Belgrade. 160 shops, cinema, casino, bowling, wellness centre, 6 cafes and 10 restaurants on 130.000 m2. 4Open 10:00 – 22:00.

Concept store Supermarket C-1, Corner of Strahinjića Bana and Višnjića Streets, tel. (+381) 65 380 50 44, office@supermarket.rs, www.supermarket.rs. An out-of-the-ordinary place combining a restaurant, spa center, hair salon and ‘beauty & fashion’ lounge, where you can purchase hard-to-find and curious home accessories, unique pieces of clothing designed by up-and-coming young fashion designers, skin care and other beauty produce, wines....The inside, covering a floor area of 1400m² is reminiscent of an unfinished hangar, as the walls have an unfinished concrete look/texture and there is insulation hanging from the ceiling. The restaurant serves up light Asian, Italian and French dishes and the Chef is Sem Veldheer from the Netherlands. Be sure to try pumpkin risotto with salmon and beurre blanc sauce. Those who like to overindulge in rich desserts will appreciate 'Chocolate Fountain' - candied fruit and 700 gram chocolate dip. The Spa zone offers traditional, aromatherapy and high-tech treatments. The Supermarket prices seem to aim for those who don't think twice about splashing out.4Open 09:00 - 01:00.

Antiques

Ambijenta C-2, Nikole Spasića 2, tel. (+381) 11 262 45 61. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Nosorog C-2, Cara Uroša 12, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 94. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Zarić C-2, Vuka Karadžića 9, (+381) 218 53 47. 4Open Daily 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun Closed.

Bookshops

Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel. (+381) 11 262 58

39. Wonderful little bookshop-cum-tea room filled with books in Serbian and English. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. IPS-Akademija C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 263 65 14. A large selection of books, monographs, dictionaries and comic books in Serbian and English. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. Mamut C-2, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, tel. (+381) 11 263 90 60. Books, monographs and magazines in Serbian and English, a great range of CDs, a gift-shop. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

Flowers

Teleflora C-2, Svetogorska 11, tel. (+381) 11 303 00 48. Flower delivery to 185 countries worldwide. 4Open: 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

The railway bridge

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Adoré C-2, Terazije 15-23, tel. (+381) 11 333 37 30. The finest chocolate treats in the Balkans. An absolute must for chocoholics! Also at Delta City. 100g - 440 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Beoizlog C-2, Knez Mihajlova 6, tel. (+381) 11 263 17 21. Beograde souvenirs: books, T-shirts, calendars, old photos, stationary with Belgrade themes. 4Open 09:00 21:00, Closed Sun. Singidunum C-2, Terazije 42, tel. (+381) 11 264 31 58. The largest selection of rakija (traditional Serbian brandy), wines, and local delicacies. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. November-December 2010

Shopping Markets Teeming with people and colours, green markets offer fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, scrumptious meat and dairy products, pickles, honey, herbs and more. Officially open 06:00 - 19:00, but you will be wise to observe the times below, as farmers selling their own goods are eager to go home earlier. Bajlonijeva Pijaca C-2, Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 72. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Blok 44 Jurija Gagarina bb, tel. (+381) 11 215 82 32. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, tel. (+381) 11 245 03 50. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00 Zeleni venac C-2, Jug Bogdanova bb, tel. 262 93 28. 4Open 06:00 - 19:00

Branko's Bridge leads to the heart of the Old Town

Zdravo-Živo C-2, Bulevar JNA 75, tel. (+381) 63 878 59 88. A widearray of items belonging to Serbian folk culture (traditional caps and footwear, embroidered blouses, woollen socks), pipes, traditional kitchen accessories, kilims etc. 4Open 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Www.serbiasouvenirs.com. The biggest online souvenir shop with a wide range of original, handmade folkart products and souvenirs from all over Serbia. They offer a wide range of products including books, travel guides, games, clothing, classical souvenirs and more. The website is currently only available in Serbian.

Tobacco & Drinks

Julieta C-2, Đure Jakšića 11, tel. (+381) 11 263 76 90. Cuban cigars, whiskey, dark chocolate, fine wines and champagne. 4Open 09:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun. La Casa del Habano C-3, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. (+381) 11 383 05 33, www.julieta.biz. The place to enjoy Cuban cigars. Classy decor and one of 10 largest walk in humidors in Europe with a comprehensive range of the finest cigars and whiskey. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Royal enoteca B-2, Karađorđeva 3, (+381) 11 262 39 69. Excellent selection of wines. 4Open 16:00 – 24:00, Sun closed. Tvrđava C-2, corner of Cetinjska and Hilandarska. Cigarettes, sweets, juices and spirits. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. Belgrade In Your Pocket

Wine Bar C-2, Dositejeva 13, tel. (+381) 11 262 62 67. Excellent selection of wines. Taste wines on offer at retail prices. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun closed. Wonderland C-3, Svetog Save 25, tel. (+381) 64 640 22 20. Wines, spirits and a fine assortment of sweets. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun closed. belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Business directory Business essentials (data for Serbia in 2009) GDP per capita: $10,540 Average wage: €425 (Belgrade), €340 (Serbia) Annual inflation rate: 10.1% The standard VAT rate: 18% The lower VAT rate: 8% Corporate Profit Tax Rate: 10% (lowest in Europe) Personal income tax rate on wages: 12% Other personal income tax rate: 20% Annual Income Tax: 10% (for income exceeding the amount of 3 and 5 times the national average wage for Serbian and non-Serbian citizens respectively) and 15% (for income 8 times above the national average wage for non-Serbian citizens) Rates for mandatory social security contributions: 17.9% Unemployment rate: 13% Serbia has free trade agreements with Russia and the countries of South East Europe (CEFTA).

Accounting & Auditing

BDO BC Excell C-2, Knez Mihailova 10, tel. (+381)

11 328 13 99

ConsulTeam C-3, Prote Mateje 52, tel. (+381) 11 308 61 80

Deloitte C-2, Terazije 8, tel. (+381) 11 381 21 00 Ernst & Young A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, tel. (+381) 11 209 57 00

KPMG C-2, Studentski trg 4, tel. (+381) 11 328 28 92 Pricewater house Coopers Omladinskih brigada 88a, tel. (+381) 11 330 21 00

SEECAP C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (+381) 11 363 59

Advertising agencies

BGinfo Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 383 00 50 Communis Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. (+381) 11 363 67 00 Digital Creation D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 382 20 22 New Moment C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92 Synergy Leo Burnett Danila Lekića 31, tel. (+381) 11 209 02 00

Findomestic banka C-2, Kosovska 10, tel. (+381) 11 333 17 17

Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina

6, tel. (+381) 11 222 60 00 Komercijalna banka C-3, Svetog Save 14, tel. (+381) 11 308 01 00 Marfin Bank D-2, Dalmatinska 22, tel. (+381) 11 330 63 00 Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group C -2, Kolarčeva 7-10, tel. (+381) 11 330 58 76 National Bank of Greece C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 36 NLB LHB Banka A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165v, tel. (+381) 11 222 51 00 OTP Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 117, tel. (+381) 11 205 33 41 Piraeus Bank C-2, Bulevar umetnosti 2, tel. (+381) 11 260 88 64 ProCredit Bank D-2, Bulevar despota Stefana 68c, tel. (+381) 11 331 30 88 Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Terazije 27, tel. (+381) 11 320 21 00 Societe Generale A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 50a, tel. (+381) 11 301 15 15 Unicredit Bank C-2, Rajićeva 27-29, tel. (+381) 11 320 45 00 Volksbank A-1, Bul. Mihajla Pupina 165g, tel. (+381) 11 201 32 00

Business connections

Belgrade Stock Exchange A-1, Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. (+381) 11 311 72 97, www.belex.rs. Business Registration Agency C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 333 14 00, www.apr.gov.rs Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade C-2, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. (+381) 11 264 13 55, www.kombeg. org.rs Ministry of Economy and Regional Development

C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. (+381) 11 285 50 51, www.merr.gov.rs Ministry of Trade and Services C-3, Nemanjina 2226, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 79

Banks

Getting working papers

25 02 50

Internationals planning to work in Serbia are required to obtain a Temporary Residence Permit. To get one, you need to submit an application to the Police Office in the territory of residence. The documentation required for granting this permit depends on the reasons for requesting the permit (employment, education, sport etc.) and typically includes a valid passport, 2 photographs, evidence of means of support (such as bank statement attesting to availability of funds), employment contract, explanatory letter re: the need for employment written by the company, or decision on registration of the company (if you are owner or representative of a company). It normally takes about a week to process the application. Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners), Savska 35 (B-3), tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

Alpha Bank C-2, Kralja Milana 11, tel. (+381) 0800 Banca Intesa B-2, Milentija Popovića 7b, tel. (+381)

11 310 88 88 BNP Paribas C-2, (Representative Office), Obilićev venac 22, tel. (+381) 11 328 48 60 Citibank N.A. A-2, (Representative Office), Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 64a/IV, tel. (+381) 11 220 93 00 Commerzbank AG B-2, (Representative Office), Vladimira Popovića 6 (Genex Apartments), tel. (+381) 11 301 85 20 Deutsche Bank C -2, (Representative Of fice), Balkanska 2, tel. (+381) 11 205 50 50 Eurobank EFG C-2, Kolarčeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 333 23 11 Erste Bank C-2, Knez Mihajlova 36, tel. (+381) 11 303 70 26

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

November-December 2010

Business directory Privatization Agency C-2, Terazije 23, tel. (+381) 11

Executive search/Recruitment

Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry

HD European Consulting Group C-2, Francuska 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 63 68, www.hd-ecg.com

SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion Agency

Foreign representations

Business facilities

Council of Europe D-3, Sinđelićeva 9, tel. (+381)

302 08 00, www.priv.rs

C-2, Resavska 13-15, tel. (+381) 11 330 09 00, pks. komora.net C-2, Vlajkovićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 339 85 50

Airport City Omladinskih brigada 88, tel. (+381) 11 209 05 25, www.airportcitybelgrade.com

Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel.

(+381) 11 265 55 10, www.sajam.co.rs EXPO XXI - Expocentre A-2, Španskih boraca 74a, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Sava Congress Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 00, www.savacentar.com Ušće Business Centre B-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. (+381) 11 220 02 00

Consulting

CES Mecon Danijelova 12-16, tel. (+381) 11 309 08 00, www.cesmecon.com Dekleva & Partners Ltd. C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. (+381) 11 303 36 49, www.dekleva1.com. All services are offered in English, Russian, German, Greek and Serbian languages. EKI Investment C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) 11 361 31 64, www.eki-investment.com

American Chamber of Commerce C-2, Vlajkovićeva 30, tel. (+381) 11 334 59 61, www.amcham.rs 11 308 84 11

European Agency for Reconstruction C-2, Vasina

2-4, tel. (+381) 11 302 34 00 Foreign Investors Council C-2, Svetogorska 37, tel. (+381) 11 303 55 50, www.fic.org.rs

Lawyers

Harrison Solicitors C-2, Terazije 34, tel. (+381) 11

361 59 18

Law Office C-2, Takovska 13, (+381) 11 322 71 33,

(063)38 31 16, www.businesslawserbia.com. Lawyers and legal consultants provide a full range of corporate, company, legal services, serving both local and multinational companies, especially: registration, privatization, mergers & acquisitions, foreign investments, real-estate, litigations, banking, finance & tax advisory. Tomić-Stević-Dulić C-2, Carice Milice 3/II, tel. (+381) 11 328 52 27. Their practice areas include corporate law, commercial law, foreign investment, mergers and acquisitions, franchising, tax law, administrative law, intellectual property, unfair competition, privatization, insolvency, corporate restructuring, employment law, pension funds, real estate, construction litigation.

Office Furniture

Eurosalon B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 12, tel. (+381) 11 206 75 00

Office1Superstore Milošev kladenac 14b, tel. (+381) 11 346 06 05

Real estate

ApartmentsApart belgrade@bookaa.net, www. apartmentsapart.com BeoRent tel. (+381) 65 822 37 51, www.beorent. com Eurodiplomatic D-3, Dravska 18, tel. (+381) 11 308 68 78 Mentor D-3, Mileševska 2, tel. (+381) 11 308 90 80, www.mentorrent.rs Slavija rent C-2, Beogradska 33, (+381) 11 334 12 81, www.slavijarent.com

Translators

As sociation of Technical and Scientif ic Translators of Serbia D-3, Kičevska 9, tel. (+381)

11 244 27 29

Worthy facade on Kolarčeva Street in the city centre

Belgrade Translation Center C-1, Đorđa Stanojevića 4, tel. (+381) 11 630 06 88, www.btc.rs, office@ btc.rs Center Lomonosov C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. (+381) 11 334 31 84. www.centarlomonosov.com, contact@ centarlomonosov.com

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Dry cleaners

Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4, tel. (+381) 11 313 02 51

Embassies and Consulates

Albania Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25a, tel. (+381) 11 306 66 42

Algeria Smetanina 12, tel. (+381) 11 367 12 11 Argentina C-2, Knez Mihailova 24, tel. (+381) 11

262 25 41

Australia B-2, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, tel. (+381) 11 303 19 56 Austria B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. (+381) 11 333 65 00 Belarus C-3, Deligradska 13, tel. (+381) 11 361 69 38 Belgium C-2, Krunska 18, tel. (+381) 11 323 00 18 Bosnia and Herzegovina C-3, Krunska 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 11 70 Brazil C-2, Krunska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 97 81 Bulgaria C-3, Birčaninova 26, tel. (+381) 11 361 39 80 Canada C-3, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. (+381) 11 306 30 00 Czech Republic C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. (+381) 11 323 01 33 China Perside Milenković 9, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 63 Croatia C-3, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 35 Cuba Vukovarska 3, tel. (+381) 11 369 24 41 Cyprus Diplomatska kolonija 9, tel. (+381) 11 367 27 25 Denmark Neznanog Junaka 9a, tel. (+381) 11 367 95 00 Ecuador C-3, Graničarska 8/III, tel. (+381) 11 344 01 35 Egypt Andre Nikolića 12, tel. (+381) 11 265 05 85 Finland C-3, Birčaninova 29, tel. (+381) 11 306 54 00 France B-2, Pariska 11, tel. (+381) 11 302 35 00 Germany C-3, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. (+381) 11 306 43 00 Greece C-2, Francuska 33, tel. (+381) 11 322 65 23 Great Britain C-3, Resavska 46, tel. (+381) 11 264 50 55 Holland C-2, Simina 29, tel. 202 39 00 Hungary C-3, Krunska 72, tel. (+381) 11 244 04 72 India Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel. (+381) 11 266 41 27 Iran Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. (+381) 11 367 43 60 Italia C-3, Birčaninova 11, tel. (+381) 11 306 61 00 Israel Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. (+381) 11 364 35 00 Japan B-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. (+381) 11 301 28 00 Macedonia C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. (+381) 11 328 49 24 Mexico Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. (+381) 11 367 41 70 Monte negro Užička 1, tel. (+381) 11 266 23 00 Norway Užička 43, tel. (+381) 11 367 04 04 Poland C-2, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. (+381) 11 206 53 01 Portugal Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 28 95 Romania C-3, Užiča 10, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 72 Russia C-3, Deligradska 32, Katićeva 8-10, tel. (+381) 11 361 13 23 Slovakia A-2, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. (+381) 11 222 38 00 belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Children The most popular place for children in Belgrade is the Zoo, nestled against the Belgrade fortress (C-1). The Zoo, founded in 1936, is also called ‘Good Hope Garden’. Its stars include the only white buffalo in Europe, a couple of white lions and a white wallaby. Children adore the Baby Zoo, home to the cubs born in the zoo.Admission is 350 din for adults and 250 din for children aged 3-15.4Open 08:00 - 20:00, in winter 08:00 - 17:00

Ballet classes

Orhestra Ballet Studio D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, tel. (+381) 11 240 34 43

Best ice cream in town

Pelivan C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, tel. (+381) 11 323 16 79

Children’s playrooms

Extreme Kids D-2, Venizelosova 21, tel. (+381) 11 323 02 02

Horse riding

Aleksa Dundić Riding Club Belgrade Hippodrome, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. (+381) 11 354 15 84

International schools

Anglo-American School Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 77

Britannica International School Užička 21a, tel. (+381) 11 367 15 57

Ecole Francaise de Belgrade B-3, Kablarska 35,

tel. (+381) 11 369 17 62

Deutsche Schule Belgrad B-3, Sanje Živanović

10, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 35

International Nursery School Nake Spasić 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 71 30

International School of Belgrade Temišvarska

19, tel. (+381) 11 206 99 99

Kindergartens

Sunašce C-2, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, tel. (+381) 11 761 70 13. Day care for pre-school children. Marry Poppins C-3, Kursulina 37, tel. (+381) 11 243 30 59. Day care for school-age children.

Real Aikido

Real Aikido World Centre D-3, Slavujev venac 1,

tel. (+381) 11 308 91 99

Swimming school for children

City Centre for Physical Education C-3, Deligrad-

ska 27, tel. (+381) 11 265 87 47

Slovenia C-1, Dositejeva 41, tel. (+381) 11 303 84 77

Spain C-3, Prote Mateje 45, tel. (+381) 11 344 02 31

Sweden Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. (+381) 11 206 92 00 Switzerland C-3, Birčaninova 27, tel. (+381) 11 306 58 20

Tunisia B-3, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. (+381) 11 369

19 61

Turkey C-2, Krunska 1, tel. (+381) 11 333 24 00 USA C-3, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. (+381) 11 361 93 44 Vatican C-3, Svetog Save 24, tel. (+381) 11 308 53 56

November-December 2010

Lifestyle directory

Pets

Pet Centar A-2, Bulevar Milutina Milankovića 1v (Treći bulevar), tel. (+381) 11 212 33 05, www.petcentar.rs.

Spa & Beauty Salons

Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center Milentija Popovica 5 , tel.(+381) 11 301 11 71, www.belgrade. regency.hyatt.com. massage, body treatments, facials, spa, swimming pool, manicure, pedicure, sauna, whirlpool, waxing Olimas C-1, Strahinjića Bana 64/3, tel. (+381) 11 218 07 92, www.massage.rs. Massage, body treatments. Jai Thai B-3, Vase Pelagića 48, tel. (+381) 369 91 93, www.jai-thai.net. Thai massage, body treatments, herbal baths, restaurant. Spa Centar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 54 08, www.spacentar.co.rs. Hydro massage, massage, steam baths, beauty parlour.

Health Clinics & Hospitals

Ambulance (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Bulevar Franše D’Eperea 5, tel. 94 Emergency Centre (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Pasterova 2, tel: (+381) 11 361 84 44

Medical institutions on duty

Bežanijska Kosa General Hospital Bežanijska Kosa bb, tel. (+381) 11 301 07 77

Hairdressers

Šobota C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 62 95

Key cuts

Elezović D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, tel.

(+381) 11 245 27 25. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (+381) 64 641 43 65

Launderettes

Bianca Dušana Vukasovića 82, tel. (+381) 65 888 24 24

Libraries

City of Belgrade Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 00, www.bgb.org.rs

National Library of Serbia C-3, Skerlićeva 1, tel.

(+381) 11 245 12 42, www.nb.rs

Svetozar Marković University Library D-3, Bulevar

Kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. (+381) 11 337 05 13, www. unilib.bg.ac.rs

Money transfer

Western Union C-2, Kosovska 1, tel. (+381) 11 330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Belgrade, in EUR only.

Opticians

Diopta D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 104, tel. (+381) 11 243 65 85

La Gatta C-2, Cara Lazara 15, tel. (+381) 11 263 10 34 Belgrade In Your Pocket

Clinical Centre of Serbia C-3, Pasterova 2, tel.

tel (+381) 11 361 77 77

Dr Dragiša Mišović General Hospital Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. (+381) 11 363 07 00 Military Medical Academy Crnotravska 17, tel. (+381) 11 266 11 22 Zvezdara General Hospital Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. (+381) 11 380 69 69

Private practices

Anlave CD Vase Pelagića 68, tel. (+381) 11 317 59 29, www.anlaveclinic.rs Bel Medic General Hospital Koste Jovanovica 87, tel. (+381) 11 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com Medikom Polyclinic C-3 Branicevska 12a, tel. (+381) 11 344 37 81

Dentists (on duty 24 hours)

Dr.Toma Jovanović Kneza Sime Markovića 9, tel. (+381) 334 82 00. On duty 24 hours.

Stari Grad Obilićev Venac 30, tel. (+381) 11 263

52 36

Vračar Kneginje Zorke 15, tel. (+381) 11 244 14 13

Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)

Bogdan Vujošević A-1, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. (+381) 11260 18 87 Prvi Maj C-2, Kralja Milana 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 13 49 Sveti Sava C-2, Nemanjina 2, tel. (+381) 11 664 31 70 belgrade.inyourpocket.com

sports

price is 200 dinars (daily terms) and in the evening is 300 dinars. 4Open Daily 12:30 - 22:30, Sat 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 14:00 - 21:30. Ice hall D-2, Čarlija Čaplina 39, tel. (+381) 11 276 66 67. An ice hockey venue where skating also takes place,entrance is free during working hours on weekdays (except for Monday). During weekday evenings, the admission price is 200 dinars and 300 over weekend. 4Open Daily 20:30 - 22:00, Mon Closed, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Karting

Autokomerc Karting Centar 1. Ulica 84c, tel. (+381)

Catch a hockey match during the winter season

11 316 90 29, www.kart.rs. An outdoor circuit alongside the motorway close to the airport. Its 803m long and 8m wide track with 18 curves boasts a CIK FIA C circuit licence. Open from March to October, every day except Monday. The circuit is floodlit and night karting is available. The Center offers a kart school, and there is also a track for children aged 5 to 8.4Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Bowling

Paintball

Colosseum Dobanovačka 56 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11

316 54 03. 10 lanes, billiards, Sony PlayStation consoles, electronic darts, café, restaurant. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. First bowling Gradski Park u Zemunu, tel. (+381) 11 377 16 12. 7 lanes, café. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Kolosej Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 312 99 44. 14 lanes, billiards, laser tag arena, video arcades, café. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Cycling

There are no bicycle paths in the Old Town, but you can enjoy a ride on a bicycle route along the river, from Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija. There are bicycle services in Dorćol, near Belgrade Fair, and at Ada Ciganlija. Good routes for riding a bike include those along the Sava on the New Belgrade side of the river, along Zemun Quay and at Ada Ciganlija. Riding a bike in Košutnjak and Topčider areas is not recommended because of steep hills and narrow traffic lines used by cars.

Golf

Golf Klub Beograd A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. (+381) 11 305 68 37, www.golfclub.co.rs. A nine-hole golf course, lessons and equipment hire available, and café to. 4Open 07:00 - 22:00

Ice skating

Hall Pinguin Jurija Gagarina 78, tel. (+381) 11 217 81 83, info@hkbeostar.net, www.hkbeostar.net. Admission

Paintball Club Arena No 1 tel. (+381) 11 063 779 67 96. Outdoor and indoor facilities. One hour of paintball + equipment is 10€. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Shooting range

Sportski Centar Kovilovo Zrenjaninski put 170

(12km from the city centre), tel. 207 52 00. First-class shooting ranges for Skeet, Trap and Double Trap events and one sporting compact shooting range specially designed for huntsmen. Shooting lessons, dog boxes, swimming pool, sauna, massage, restaurant.

Squash Courts

Squashland Pionirski grad in Košutnjak, tel. (+381) 11 305 58 07. Two courts, café. Price per session (45 mins): 800 dinars before 15h, 1.300 dinars after 15h and on weekends. Racket hire: 350 dinars. 4Open 08:00 24:00.

Tennis Courts

11. April near university halls of residence in New Belgrade, tel. (+381) 11 267 29 39. Three outdoor red-clay courts and one indoor court situated in an empty swimming pool (the place of Ana Ivanović’s early training). Gemax Banji;ki venac 28b, tel. (+381) 11 306 18 13. Exclusive tennis club, 4 indoor and 4 outdoor courts, fitness centre, swimming pool, sauna, sports shop, restaurant. For members and their guests only. Sa&Ni D-2, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 276 68 47. Four redclay courts, school of tennis, café.

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November-December 2010

Index ? 46 25th of May Museum 48 Absinthe 32 Akademija 42 Amarone Wine Bar 41 Amphora 40 Amsterdam 40 Apollo 011 29 ArkaBarka 29 AUR-Klub svetskih putnika 41 Balkan 22 Balkan Hotel Garni 22 Balzac 33 Baryakli Mosque 47 Beli Grad 29 Belgrade Fortress 45 Best Western M 22 Best Western Šumadija 22 Bevanda 37 Bg City hotel 26 Bitef Art café 42 Bizzare 41 Blaywatch 42 Bristol 26 Brodić 43 Burito bar 36 Byblos 36 Cantina de Frida 39 Casa Nova 35 Cathedral Church 47 Centar 30 Central Bus Station 52 Central Railway Station 51 Central Station 30 Chilton 30 City Center 30 City Code 27 Continental 22 Cricket 30 Crossroad 30 Cruise 41 Čobanov odmor 34 Čubura 37 Dačo 37 Delta City 55 Diva 32 Elegance 25 Emergency Centre 60 Ethnographic Museum 48 Excelsior 22 Evropa 22 Favela 40 Forever 27 Franš 33 Galerija 40 Grand Casino 44 Grand pleasure 40 Greenet 40 Guli 36 Havana 43 Holiday Inn 23 Hyatt Regency 21 Ikki Sushi Bar 36 In 23 Ipanema 34 Jasmin Hostel 31 Jewish Cemetery 46 Jewish Historical Museum 46 Jevrem 38 Jevremovac Botanic Garden 47 Kalemegdanska terasa 33 Kalenić Pijaca 45 Kandahar 40 Kasina 25 Košutnjak 47

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Lav Le Petit Piaf Life Design Lime cafe Little Bay Loki Loža Madera Maharaja Majestic Majik Mama’s Biscuit House Manga Manjež McDonald’s Mercator Mercedes bar Metropolitan grill Milagro Millennium Tower Military Museum Mladost Moskva Mountain Avala Mr. President Museum of Automobiles Museum of Aviation Mythologia N Nacos New Cemetery Nikola Tesla Airport Nikola Tesla Museum Opera Orašac Ottimo Palace Park Paša Pekara Toma Peking Pietro dell Oro Plastic Light Plato Pizza Hut Pomodoro Pošta Povetarac Prag President Proleće Rakia bar Reka Rex Rezime Crown Rezime Residence Royal Royal compound Salaš Sava Centre Skadarlija Skala Slavija Lux Slodes Srbija Srpska kafana St. Mark’s Church St. Petka’s Chapel St. Sava Temple Stara Carinarnica Stara Hercegovina Supermarket Synagogue Sweet caffe Tabor

25 23 23 40 34 39 34 34 33 23 32 40 31 38 34 55 42 34 39 46 49 44 24 49 24 49 49 34 26 36 47 52 49 34 25 35 24 25 37 34 32 36 44 42 37 37 26 44 26 21 38 42 44 26 27 27 26 46 38 55 45 26 24 26 26 38 47 47 47 38 38 34 46 40 39

Taš The Three Carrots The Tube Three Black Cats Tis Topčider Park Townhouse 27 Townhouse 50 Tramvaj Travelling Actor Tribeca Trim Villa Belvedere Villa Forest Villa Jelena Villa Kalemegdan Vila Manjež Vila Terazije Villa Zemun Yachting Club Kej Yugoslav Film Archive Zaplet Zlatnik Zira Zorba Žabar Whatever@the corner

27 42 44 31 31 48 25 29 44 28 35 27 28 28 21 28 28 28 29 31 49 33 22 25 33 35 35

Street register 27. marta D-2 Admirala Geprata C-2 Akademski plato C-2 Balkanska C-2 Beogradska C-2 Birčaninova C-3 Brodarska B-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića A-2 Bulevar Despota Stefana C-2 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra C-2 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina A-1 Bulevar Nikole Tesle A-1 Bulevar Oslobođenja C-3 Bulevar umetnosti A-1 Bulevar vojvode Mišića B-3 Bulevar Zorana Đinđića A-2 Cara Dušana C-1 Cara Lazara C-2 Cara Uroša C-1 Carice Milice C-2 Carigradska D-2 Cetinjska C-2 Cvijićeva D-2 Čarli Čaplina D-2 Čika Ljubina C-2 Dalmatinska D-2 Dečanska C-2 Deligradska C-3 Dobračina C-2 Dositejeva C-2 Dragoslava Jovanovića C-2 Džordža Vašingtona C-2 Đure Daničića C-2 Đušina D-2 Goce Delčeva A-1 Gospodar Jevremova C-1 Gospodar Jovanova C-1 Hilandarska C-2 Jurija Gagarina A-3 Kalenićeva D-3 Karađorđeva C-2 Katanićeva C-3 Kej oslobođenja A-1 Knez Mihailova C-2 Kneza Miloša C-3

Kneza Sime Markovića Kneginje Zorke Kolarčeva Kosančićev venac Kosovska Kralja Milana Kralja Milutina Kraljice Natalije Kraljice Marije Kralja Petra I Krunska Mačvanska Majke Jevrosime Makedonska Maksima Gorkog Maršala Birjuzova Masarikova Mije Kovačevića Milentija Popovića Mileševska Milovana Milovanovića Milutina Bojića Nebojšina Nemanjina Nikole Spasića Nušićeva Obilićev venac Omladinskih brigada Palmira Toljatija Palmotićeva Pariska Požarevačka Prizrenska Proleterske Solidarnosti Rajićeva Resavska Ruzveltova Sarajevska Savska Savski trg Skadarska Skerlićeva Skver Mire Trailović Slavujev venac Strahinjića Bana Studentski trg Svetog Save Svetogorska Svetozara Markovića Svetozara Radića Šantićeva Španskih boraca Tadeuša Košćuška Takovska Terazije Topličin venac Trg Nikole Pašića Trg Republike Trg Slavija Trnska Ušće Uzun Mirkova Vasina (Vase Čarapića) Venizelosova Višnjićeva Vladimira Popovića Vlajkovićeva Vojvode Šupljikca Vuka Karadžića Zeleni venac Zmaj Jovina Železnička

63 B-2 C-3 C-2 B-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 D-2 A-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 A-1 A-1 C-2 C-1 D-3 C-2 A-2 C-2 C-3 D-2 C-3 B-3 C-3 C-2 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-3 B-2 C-2 A-2 C-1 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-3 D-3 B-2 C-1 C-2 D-2 C-1 B-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 B-2

www.inyourpocket.com November-December 2010

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Kalemegdan Park

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Parliament

Tašmajdan Park New Cemetery iko ar va

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Kalenić’s market

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Nikola Tesla Airport

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Lipovička Wood

Unknown Hero Monument

Mt. Avala

Jajinci Memorial Park

St. Stevan

Rakovica Monastery

Voždovac

Konjarnik

BELGRADE

Vračar

Old town

Dorćol

Kovilovo

Topčider Park

Great War Island

NEW BELGRADE

Bežanijska kosa

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Novi Sad, Subotica

Belgrade

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Zagreb, Sremska Mitrovica

Serbia

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November-December 2010

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