AFROCHICK MAGAZINE

A F R O C H I C K M A G A Z I N E Š by mosheflowpublishesbooks, INC. is licensed under a Creative Commons AttributionNonCommercial 4.0 International License. *Magazine Disclaimer: All images are property of the Nzuri Bloggersphere* | Publishing House: studio 1034 | Houston, Texas | Online Access: www.soflynmythirties.webs.com/afrochick.htm

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Publisher’s Curly Coils “A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.” ― Coco Chanel The Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival is an annual event held at Reliant Center in Houston, Texas. I had the opportunity for a second year in a row to join the natural hair care organization’s bloggersphere group. It was an amazing experience to engage in conversation with other like-minded naturalista’s about hair and culture.

I remember when I decided to go natural at the age of 22 years old. I saw a girl at Tarrant County College in Fort Worth, Texas spitting some poetry at an event and she had a fresh afro! I was so amazed at her beauty, and the freedom and independence that exuded her demeanor when she recited her work. Since that time of discovering what I wanted to look and feel like -- I’ve embraced every step of the journey. I decided to go natural at the turn of the century and it wasn’t cool or the in thing at that time. I didn’t have a lot of peeps in my corner that respected what I was going through and it was lonely. Today, I’m 37 years old and would not change anything from the first moment when I laid eyes on that poet. Her being and energy helped me take a forward leap into the future and into my own greatness. th

After attending the 4 Annual Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival in 2012, I walked away knowing that what I did some ten years ago is exactly in line with God’s plan for my life. This time around, I was able to meet new bloggers, participate in lively discussion, attended several pre-events and had the opportunity to help spread the word about one of the best African American owned organizations in the city of Houston. The Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival features natural hair care workshops, pageantry, an awards gala, pre-gala seminars, a vendor expo and so much more for a whopping $10.00 per person! To think, that someone came up with an idea to celebrate blackness at an affordable price for everyone to attend and enjoy is one of the best forms of marketing and business moves I’ve ever witnessed.

To commemorate this year’s festivities I decided to publish a magazine that will make you think, ask questions, and want to continue on your journey as a naturalista! S/o to all of the women that contributed to this publication and sponsors- your support is appreciated. We did this together! And, I hope that I will be afforded another opportunity to work with the Nzuri Natural Hair Care Festival in 2014!

kYmberly “sofly” Keeton Publisher | AFROCHICK Magazine | “Be.U.Be.Natural” www.soflynmythirties.webs.com/afrochick.htm

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WHAT’S HOT! A F R O C H I C K E D I T O R I AL C O N T E N T Editorial Email: afrochicknatural@gmail.com | Web-Blog: www.soflynmythirties.webs.com/afrochick.htm

PART I Guest Editorial Meet Houston Businesswoman in the Natural Hair Care Business Must Read: Natural Hair Care Tips Enter In Gallery Trip | Artistic Vision for Women

PART II Natural Hair Care Editorial Roundtable Discussion Enter into the Virtual AFROCHICK Poetry Lounge PSA: The Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival Read | Afrochick Bloggersphere Interview

Part III The AFRO CHICK Pop-up Shop Nzuri Festival Natural Hair Care Photos Download Free Natural Hair Care Book

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To Get Back Home, Get Back Natural Guest Editor @ Large | By delmetria l. millener It was the mid-80s when my mother started getting the hairstyle, “Jheri Curls.” I was about 11-years old. Louisiana natives, we had to travel to Houston, Texas, two times a year for her to get this “hair do.” I was so envious. In my mind, it was a pretty big deal to have to travel out of town to get your hair done. I thought it was about prestige. I didn’t know that the only reason we traveled so far was because no one in my area knew how to “do a curl.” Often, I would beg my mother to let me get a “curl” too. Her answer was always no. th

At age 13, at the end of my 7 grade year, the long-awaited permission I needed from my mom to also get a Curl was granted. Finally! I would have hair like them—the mulatto girls at my school who had “good hair.” And just in time for high school! After all, I’m from Louisiana. Aren’t all Louisianans supposed to have good hair and be labeled Creole or Cajun? Besides, my curl was not “juicy” like most. I only put a small amount of “curl juice” so that it wouldn’t be dry, but it would look like my own “good hair.” Even better, I didn’t sleep with my curl bag on, but miraculously, my sheets did not get oily. I would have sleep over’s at my white friends’ houses with no problem! You couldn’t get more natural than that.

By the time I was 17 and had moved to Texas, I was getting my hair, as it’s said, “Fried, dyed and laid to the side.” I had begun getting perms—or straightening my hair with a chemical relaxer. I was the Toni Braxton remix when it came to my hair. I permed so often, people started to believe I had more “Indian blood” in me than I do. Don’t we all? I would get questions like, “What are you mixed with?” To which I would respond, “Girl, who knows? I’m black. Everything.” It wasn’t a complete lie. All I know is, you would never catch me with a kink or nap. There it was: I was addicted to “Creamy Crack.” At times, I would perm my hair two to three times a week, up to eight times a month!

Then, fate dunked my head under an ice cold sink. In 2008, my grandmother was diagnosed with breast cancer, had surgery and survived it. Consequently, the Universe shifted my circumstances and forced me to leave my husband/stylist and children, and move back to Louisiana to care for her. It was the greatest twist of fate of my life up to that point because I was able to spend time taking care of the woman I so adored, who had taken care of me in the same way or better, most of my younger life. But as a bonus, I was not able to get my hair done on the every-other-daily basis like I had been.

But a “raggedy head” didn’t matter much. I was back home. Who cared how I looked? Home is where you can be you without abandon because anything would be an improvement over old junior high school pictures. Right? But I’m always classy chic, so as my hair grew, so did my style options. I included caps, wraps, scarves, bands and water/conditioner curls. I couldn’t go home often and when I did, there was no time for perms and cutting before I had to get back to Louisiana to my grandmother.

Then one day, I read somewhere that, “During slavery, masters would get an additional $100 for their female slaves if they had soft, long curly or naturally straight hair.” That was it for me! If getting perms was

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a form of slave mentality, it was time for me to break the chains from my brain and do “The Big Chop…” although the big chop for me was merely cutting off what was left of my perm.

At first, I was nervous. Not for my short hair to show (I had worn my hair Anita Baker short since—well, that should be obvious) but for my naps to show. I braced myself for the criticisms I would receive—and continue to receive—from other “creamy crack addicted sistahs. I joined “nappy” support groups and did “nappy” research online for sound bites to get me through.

Then it happened. When the chop was over, I was afraid to look.

Unpredictably however, when my husband/stylist cut all the perm off my hair, immediately I felt different.

Beautiful. Suddenly, my confidence boosted, my back straightened and my vibration commanded respect.

I radiated immensely. I was one of the Winkies in the 1975 Broadway musical, “The Wiz,” when Dorothy killed Evilene. “A Brand New Day,” written by Luther Vandross, became my theme song. The song was about freedom and new possibilities. Going natural was my song for the single most liberating thing that I had ever done as a black woman.

Now, instead of spending hours stressing over my hair, I get dressed faster. And each day, I feel an internal “thank you” from my soul because my scalp feels so squeaky clean. My budget is better because I’m not spending a lot of money on products and I have learned to make my own healthy hair products, so the experimentation is a new fun!

I think the best thing about being natural is that it challenges you to take off other skins that you have been a slave to for so long. Once the perm is removed, you want to remove the makeup. You want to eat better, workout more, create more authentic bonds with people, not settle for a career that you no longer enjoy. Being natural forces you to become your truth.

“Natural is more than Hair, what we eat, what we do. It’s the beauty of how God Made us and not being afraid to show it. It’s our souls. Our Beauty. Our Essence. Our Natural is Dope!”

Quote By Naturallycurly.com

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UP CLOSE & PERSONAL AFROCHICK Business Interview | Daphne Wills, Owner: Herbal Nature

When did you decide to start your own natural hair care business and how long have you been in business? My intent wasn’t to start a business. I was merely trying to find a natural solution to regrow my hair after hair loss from years of chemical relaxers after which I developed alopecia. After successfully regrowing my own hair, I began to give my natural concoction to friends and family with other hair loss conditions such as male and female pattern baldness, alopecia, hair loss from weaves braid & bonds, medication, anesthesia, chemotherapy, stress, hormones and health conditions such as lupus. It was after I began to see hair growth in others with many different types of hair loss after using my home made products that I realized I was on to something. I continued to make my products as a hobby for many years but then the demand became too large and I decided to start my company, HerbalNature. I began making HerbalNature Organic Hair & Body Products nearly 3 decades ago at the age of 18. HerbalNature was born as an official business 1997.

What does it feel like to be an entrepreneur? It feels like everyone should be doing this! I was in corporate America for over 20 years and although I don’t have the horror stories about how terrible my bosses or coworkers were to me, I wasn’t happy because I was not following my passion or purpose.

Being an entrepreneur carries a sense of accomplishment, pride and servitude. Creating my health giving products provides value to the lives of others seeking to regrow their hair. Every time I reflect on the freedom I have to do what I do, what I want, whenever I want . . .I just can’t believe God chose me for this work! I’m so grateful that God selected my hands to be the instrument for this job. What I do NEVER feels like work. I get to wake up every day and get paid to do something I used to do for free.

African American women have a long tradition of being in the hair industry and making bold statements - What is your bold statement as an entrepreneur and how does it reflect in your business endeavors? “I want to look in the mirror and see myself the way God see’s me.”

As Black women we have been conditioned to see a reflection of ourselves that does not embrace the true essence of how God created us; our full lips, big hips, our beautiful strong facial features, our many shades of skin color and our kinky, coiled, curly, wavy “happy” hair! My business endorses and teaches women to examine why we feel the need to conform to other standards of beauty. I then ask them to stand in the unique essence of how their physical beauty was created by the Creator and to live, love and FEEL the power of that God Expression and own it! We should respect and appreciate ALL of God’s unique expressions of physical beauty including all races, all people and all hair textures. When we began with genuine love for The Self, inside and out it becomes natural to love everyone and anyone else for their unique expression of God as well. My mission through my company and products usher women into a space of love for their mind ~how they think about themselves~, body ~conscious of the types of

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products they use on their temples~ and soul ~how they show up in the world and seeking Oneness with everyone and everything~ What type of products do you offer in the natural hair care community?

I offer all natural and organic hair and body products. I specialize in hair restoration through transdermal (through the skin/scalp) healing. I also offer skin teas that increase elasticity to firm & tighten skin, clear complexion of pimples & blemishes, improve blotchy skin tone, normalize oily or dry skin for a healthy glow, reduce puffiness & sooth skin irritations. I also offer product education, classes and workshops to the community that help women to transition from chemicals to natural and healthy hair.

Where can future customers purchase your product? New and existing customers can find me at theherbalnatureway.com, 832.387.5551 and we will be front and center at The Nzuri Hair Health and th th Beauty Show in Houston, TX at The Reliant on Dec 7 and 8 Are you naturalista? What is your definition of being natural? I am an “HerbalNature” Naturalista which means I completely transitioned only using my all natural and organic products. My natural hair journey began when I was 18. Since my transition to natural hair involved hair loss due to chemical relaxers and bleaching, my definition of being natural would be: To maintain a hair care regimen that omits the use of chemicals which includes relaxers, synthetic hair color or bleach, and any hair products that contain harmful ingredients for the body. It also includes the ability and versatility of wearing my hair straight or curly without the use of chemical relaxers.

Have you ever hosted natural hair care parties for women in the community? If so, how did they turn out? I offer a free workshop to the parents and participants to assist them in embracing and managing their natural hair texture. These events are hands on, live demonstrations and they are always inspiring, fun and lively. The best part is that the participants leave excited about beginning a healthy hair journey or they leave with some thought provoking advice about seeking a more healthy hair regimen.

What is your role this year in the Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival? I am offered 2 workshops with Nzuri this year: ‘Going Natural without the Big Chop’ and ‘Tools, Techniques and Tips for Managing Multi-Cultural and Bi-Racial Hair Textures’ I will also provided a free workshop to the participants of The Little Miss Happy Headed Pageant.

Tell us what success mean to you? “Live your greatest life and harm nothing.” ~D. Wills This statement means that in the pursuit of our passions and purpose, each of our paths will lead to greatness when we love for others what we love for ourselves. Success only equals greatness when it’s not done on the shoulders of others but rather along side of them, and crediting every failure, person and experience as a necessary part of your journey to success.

Please share with our audience any upcoming conferences, events, or products endorsements that pertains to Nene’s Secret: HerbalNature > Order our products domestically and internationally or find out more about our products that restore hair health at www.theherbalnatureway.com. Give us a call at 832.387.5551 and mention Afro Chic to get your FREE Hair Health consultation with one of our Healthy Hair Consultants while supplies last.

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N A T U R A L H A I R P H O T O B R E A K Nzuri Natural Hair Festival 2013 | Reliant Center

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Natural Hair Tips

By Saleemah Cartwright @ www. Healthyhairjourney.com

Natural hair is hair that is in its most healthy state however; natural hair can be severely damaged. The use of flawed hair care practices can wreak havoc on our beautiful natural tresses. Here are some natural hair care tips that will keep your natural tresses looking fab!

1. Use minimal heat.

Stay away from pressing combs which can easily burn the hair. Opt for a tourmaline / ceramic iron to straighten your hair. Natural hair wearers sometime misjudge how damaging heat can be.

2. Keep your natural hair ends trimmed.

You don’t have to trim as often as those who have chemically processed hair. This is only because the cuticle portion of the hair strand has not been exposed to chemicals and will take longer to split. I would suggest clipping your ends every 3-6 months. If you are natural and wearing color, I would definitely trim a little more often to prevent breakage. An easy way to trim your own hair is to try the two strand twist method. After twisting to the end, clip off 1/4th to ½ inch. Perform this on each twist until all of your hair is clipped. It is harder to detect split ends on natural hair but they do exist.

3. Use an excellent water based moisturizer daily (I.e. Hydratherma Naturals Daily Moisturizing Growth Lotion). Whether you are relaxed or natural, one of the main causes of breakage is “thirsty hair”. Water is the ultimate form of moisture therefore; using a water based moisturizer is an important step in keeping your hair moisturized. Staying away from mineral oil and petrolatum is also very crucial. These ingredients coat the hair and do not penetrate the hair strand. To get an enhanced moisturizing effect, (after moisturizing) seal in the moisture with the Hydratherma Naturals Hair Growth Oil.

4. Avoid tangles while shampooing the hair.

Great tip to prevent tangles while shampooing natural hair. For medium length to longer lengths- it is a great idea to put your hair in 4-5 loose braids prior to shampooing. Wet braids in shower then squeeze shampoo into each hair braid while massaging your scalp. Rinse well and apply deep conditioning treatment to each braided section (i.e. Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus, Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment or Moisture Boosting Deep Conditioning Treatment), cover with plastic cap and sit under the dryer for about 15 minutes. When conditioning is complete, rinse hair, unbraid and comb your hair with a large tooth comb. You should have no problems with tangles if you go this route. Remember to shampoo and deep condition every 1-2 weeks.

5. Do not comb hair while it is dry.

I remember meeting a young lady who had beautiful waist length natural hair. I asked what her secret was. She stated, “A comb doesn’t touch my hair when it is dry.” It sounded crazy to me but now I completely understand. This may seem very extreme but you should only comb your hair while it is in its wet state. This will remarkably cut don’t on any breakage that you may be experiencing and result in a thicker head of hair. Always use a wide tooth comb. (The only exception to this rule is if you are wearing your hair in a straight style which should be infrequent.) If you are wearing twist-outs, braid outs, bantu knot sets, afro puffs etc., you should be finger combing your hair on a daily basis and not combing it.

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NATURAL HAIR ARTISTIC JOURNEY AT: Gallery Trip Artist Profile: Darcova Triplett Residence: Las Vegas, Nevada Social Media: www.facebook.com/GalleryTrip Website: www.DarcovaTriplettArtist.com

When did you start your art career?

My career as an Artist started January 2013.

This is when I was given the vision to Paint On Purpose. No formal training…. No art degrees…

Simply a Passion that gives me Peace, with a Profit.

What theme do you pursue?

“The Evolution of Me” sums up what I do. I review my work daily and I am constantly in awe with the way that God polishes and perfects my skills. Each time I put paintbrush to canvas, I anticipate Spirit leading and guiding me to a final product. And while I, myself, am evolving as an Artist, the Girl…. That Woman in my paintings also evolves.

Describe a real-life situation that inspired you. Every time I am Commissioned to create an Original Painting I am inspired. The Collectors simply provide a color scheme, a specific hairstyle, a tone or the purpose for the piece and I literally take and run with it.

What role does the African American Artist have in society?

As an African American Artist, it is my Purpose to Paint what I see, what I know and who I am. Without inhibitions, I exhibit me in all of my diversity… Diverse Complexions, Distinct Features, Divine Artistry (lashes, lips, earrings), Flyyy Hair and Impeccable Style. My role is to leave a legacy of Paintings that show the Evolution of the African American Woman… through the eyes of an African American Woman.

Is the artistic life lonely? What do you do to counteract that?

When I am actually Painting, I like to be alone and in silence. The brushes, the Paint and the canvasses speak to me. Spirit, without interruption, guides each stroke to a finished, purposed product. Although

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alone, I am in no way lonely. I share the process with my Collectors and fans. I solicit their suggestions for color schemes and titles. I recognize that this trip is all about US. How does natural hair care play a role in your life as an artist?

I keep a flyyy short ‘do! Sometimes I’m feeling black, natural and curly. Other times I need those lightest blonde spikes. And don’t be surprised when I cut it all off for the honey blonde fade. I know for a fact that my Hair has a story all of its own. My Hair is Art! Have you ever painted pictures that depict natural black women?

Yes! The women and girls in my paintings often rock afros, afro puffs and locs. One of my favorite collections was the “Flyyy ‘Fro Series” which included 4 pieces. All of the Divas rocked long afros, short afros and fluffy afros. They wore designer hair accessories, flamboyant earrings and my signature luscious lips.

When is your next show? nd My next solo exhibit is scheduled for March 22 in Smyrna, Georgia at the 2014 STRUT Awards.

The title of the exhibit is “The Evolution of My STRUT!” Where has your work been shown?

Pine Hills Performing Arts Center- Orlando, Florida TUAC- Thomaston, Georgia studio 1034- Houston, Texas Sista’s House of Prosperity- Fayetteville, Georgia MDAS- Stone Mountain, Georgia Jo’s Gallery- Detroit, Michigan Memorial Brunch and Tribute- New York, New York STRUT4A Cure- Las Vegas, Nevada Can clients purchase your work online?

To Purchase or Commission me for an Original Painting, send an email to DarcovaTriplett@gmail.com, inbox me at www.facebook.com/DarcovaTriplett or inbox me at www.facebook.com/GalleryTrip.

What is your dream project?

Every time I go home, I dream of being a part of the Hartsfield- Jackson Atlanta International AirportAirport Art Program- Permanent Exhibit but right about now, I’m ready to wake up and make this dream a reality!

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Black Women and Identity: What’s hair got to do with it?

NATURAL HAIR CARE EDITORIAL ROUNDTABLE DISCUSSION

By Cheryl Thompson

When it comes to hair, all women can relate. Whether you are white, black or Asian we all agonize over how to wear it; toss and turn about what colour it should be; and, cringe at the thought of cutting it too short. Dermatological research (see Browne, 2006; Loussouarn and Rawadi et al., 2005; McMichael, 2003; 2007; Wolfram, 2003) has shown that we are all born with approximately 150,000 hair follicles on the scalp but when it comes down to it, not all hair is created the same. Visually, black hair is thicker, curlier, and often frizzier as compared to Caucasian and Asian hair. And, from a grooming standpoint, it is also more sensitive to excessive manipulation, requiring a different set of styling techniques.

For me, hair has always been a constant battle. Sure, as a child it was long and healthy, but after over a decade of using a chemical straightener, it grew increasingly damaged – a tale that rings true for millions of black women – and I became tired of repeating the “process” every six to eight weeks. Why am I doing this, I wondered? What does my thick, curly, frizzy hair actually look like? And, is there a way I can take care of my hair without using a chemical, a hot comb, or having to wear a wig? Fortunately, both my sisters have worn their hair natural for several years, so I have seen firsthand how to care for that style, but so many women are not as lucky. And so last January, I sought to share my story with whoever would listen, and that is when my hair journey and that of Strictly Roots (SR) [1]owner, Ruth Smith, collided.

One gloomy morning in February, 2008, I walked into SR, a natural hair care studio – which means no measures are taken to alter the natural state of black hair – located in Toronto. Open since 2002, I had been a client of SR for months; however, this morning was different. As I entered the shop, Ruth was on the phone doing an interview about an article that was published in the Toronto Star, entitled, “Why Do Black Women Fear the ‘Fro?,” [2] which I had written a few weeks prior. As I waited (and eavesdropped), I realized that that article had just opened a Pandora’s box on the whole black hair issue. And, it is an issue. Outside of the black community, most people are totally baffled by the discussion. “Who knew?”, some of my non-black friends said in response to “the ‘fro”. While black hair might seem like fun to outsiders, given the plethora of styling options at a woman’s disposal, beneath each style there is a deeply personal hair story and a lot of scalp damage that for some is irreversible. When you consider the history of black hair, its complexity becomes clear.

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In 15th century Africa, hairstyles were used to indicate a person's marital status, age, religion, ethnic identity, wealth and rank within the community (see Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Jacobs-Huey, 2006; Mercer, 1994; Patton, 2006; Rooks, 1996). Once enslaved, hair became more a matter of the labour one was forced to do. For instance, field slaves often hid their hair, whereas house slaves had to wear wigs similar to their slave owners, who also adorned wigs during this period.

In the early 1900s, Madam C.J. Walker received a patent for developing the “hot comb” also known as a “pressing comb”. This device was the first of its kind to be marketed by a black woman to other black women, and it completely changed the hair game. Once the straightened hair was exposed to moisture, however, it would revert back to its original state. In the 1960s, George E. Johnson’s chemical straightener, also known as a “relaxer” [3] was promoted as a less damaging product to the hair and scalp; it was a more convenient way to straighten hair since it could be applied at home and it was more permanent – only requiring re-application every two to three months. Today, it is estimated that 70% to 80% of black women chemically straighten their hair. In the 1980s, weaves raised the black beauty bar even higher to hair that is not just straight, but also very long (Banks, 2000; Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Tate, 2007). Hair weaving is a process by which synthetic or real human hair is sewn into one's own hair. Celebrities like Janet Jackson, Diana Ross, Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell have openly admitted to wearing weaves. There are many different ways to wear a weave. A woman may braid her hair and then sew “tracks” (strips of hair) onto the braided hair, or using a bonding method, tracks can be glued to the hair at the root. Braid extensions are similarly a method where synthetic hair is braided into a person’s own hair, thereby creating the illusion of long hair with braids that can stay in for a long period of time. In her book, Hair Raising: Beauty, Culture, and African American Women, Noliwe Rooks (1996) recalls a memory from her childhood that underscores the relationship between hair and identity for black women. She writes, “When I went South for the summer, my grandmother could not get me to Miss Ruby’s beauty parlor and a straightening comb fast enough....She reasoned that because no one was ever going to mistake me for having anything other than African ancestry due to the dark color of my skin ...straightening my hair would give me an advantage in the world. It was one less battle that would have to be fought,” (p. 3-4).

For young black girls, hair is not just something to play with, it is something that is laden with messages, and it has the power to dictate how others treat you, and in turn, how you feel about yourself. As Rooks (1996) affirms, “Hair in 1976 spoke to racial identity politics as well as bonding between African American women. Its style could lead to acceptance or rejection from certain groups and social classes, and its styling could provide the possibility of a career” (p. 56). While this quote is an historical one, the issues revealed throughout this article are eerily current. Prior to examining these tensions, it is imperative that the topic is placed in context with prior works from scholars who have explored it from ethnographic standpoints (Banks, 2000; Jacobs-Huey, 2006; Tate, 2007), and with those who have provided varying perspectives on hair alteration, ritual, and community through textual analysis of media texts, advertisements, and case law (Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Caldwell, 1991; Patton, 2006; Rooks, 1996).

In her study, Ingrid Banks (2000) used interviews and focus-group methods to explore how black women and girls of diverse ages and socioeconomic class feel about their hair choices, and in turn, their identities, community, gender, sexuality, and cultural authenticity. Anthropologist Lanita Jacobs-Huey (2006) took a slightly different ethnographic approach to her study by examining the role of language in negotiating the social meaning of hair for African American

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women. As she explains, “black hair as a window into African American women’s ethnic and gender identities, and black hair as a linguistic and cultural engagement with these identities ... presents opportunities for learning and change, thus offering insights into the discursive and corporeal dynamics of African American women’s being and becoming [4]”(p. 4-5). Similar to Jacobs-Huey, in this article, I present a cross-section of black hair, and am concerned with women’s everyday conversations about hair care, but my intent is to extend the discussion beyond black women’s lives, the beauty parlor, and “kitchen beauticians” [5] to the wider black hair care industry and the external pressures (e.g. from the media and in the workplace). Further, while in Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair In America, Ayana D. Byrd and Lori I. Tharps (2001) provide a detailed survey of black hair from its historical roots to the business and politicization of black hair, and they describe the ritualistic nature of black hair, and how “straightening” serves as a rite of passage for most young black girls from childhood into adolescence and womanhood (see p. 137-152), I attempt to move beyond surveying ritual and community to examining the damage that years of hair alteration can cause, as well as the sociopsychological issues that underpin the ritualistic practice of altering one’s hair, and it serving as a rite of passage. Ruth’s hairstory is the perfect tipping off point to the discussion.

Born in Trinidad, Ruth immigrated to Canada in 1970. Soon thereafter, she became very selfconscious about her hair. “My hair was short and it was natural and I begged my mother to buy me a wig,” she recalls. “I begged and begged and harassed her until she actually bought me a wig, it was an Afro wig, but still a wig. I remember one day we were playing jump rope in the yard and my wig fell off. I was in grade six or seven and all the kids were laughing at me.

Looking back on it now, I would have been laughing, too.” Her decision to wear dreadlocks did not happen because of her love of reggae music, or a conversion to Rastafari. A self-dubbed “weave queen,” she used to straighten her hair (since age 15) and wear weaves and braids until excessive damage, among other things, led her to rethink her hair choices. “I recognized the fact that the reason I was perming and weaving my hair was because of self-hatred,” she says. Selfhatred seems like such a harsh word. Other women wear their hair in various hairstyles, too; short hair, long hair, shaven, dyed, spiked, even wigs and weaves, and no one attributes their hairstyling choices to self-hatred. “I think it would be unfair to say that you can compare another race’s hair issues with ours,” argues Ruth. “People don’t understanding that we have to re-learn how to take care of our hair,” says Ruth about the history of hair alteration. It seems almost hard to believe. How is it possible that millions of black women do not know how to care for their hair? And, why do so many feel they have to hide their natural hair? As a professional who sees the end result of years of hair alteration, Ruth believes that women in large part see no option but to alter their hair because of the images we are inundated with of women whose hair is very long, silky, flowing and mostly blonde. In the media, many of the black women who are glorified for their beauty tend to be women who also have long, wavy hair (Patton, p. 39-40, 2006). Further, when you consider that for the past 100 years manufacturers have almost exclusively only promoted the idea that natural black hair needs to be altered, it all begins to make sense. When was the last time short, curly, kinky black hair was celebrated or promoted as equally as beautiful? As sociologist Ann DuCille notes, “We have yet to see Miss America or Black Miss Universe with an Afro or cornrows or dreadlocks” (cited in Byrd & Tharps, 2001, p. 125). To no surprise, there have been several instances over the past few years where natural black hair has been under attack.

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In 2007, when an editor from Glamour Magazine spoke to a group of lawyers at the offices of Cleary Gottlieb Steen & Hamilton in Manhattan, she affirmed why so many black women hesitate to wear their hair natural. There to offer a “dos and don’ts” of corporate fashion, the editor allegedly showed a slide of a black woman wearing an Afro, which read “Just say no to the ‘fro,” and she said that dreadlocks were “truly dreadful,” and that the office was not a place for such “political” hairstyles. Whether they are casual comments about texture or blatant insults, many black women feel that there is a price to pay for sporting a natural do. Even corporations like MCI Communications and American Airlines have been sued because black women were allegedly fired for wearing their hair in braids or dreadlocks (Caldwell, 1991). “To me, it’s about education,” says Ruth. “It’s about educating people, it’s about educating the government, it’s about educating everybody, it’s not a black power thing, it’s got nothing to do with that. It’s got to do with individual acceptance of self.” When black women straightened their hair during C.J. Walker’s time, it was because they felt they had no choice. “It was the difference between whether you ate or you didn’t,” says Ruth. “When a black woman goes to apply for a job (today) and she doesn’t get that job because her hair is natural you need to take a step back and say something serious is going on here,” she adds.

Janet Campbell, owner of Nanni’s Natural Hair Salon, believes that more women are going natural, despite the possible CLM (career limiting move). A stylist for 14 years, she has been operating a fully-licensed hair salon out of her home in the west end of Toronto for five years.

“I’m an optimist,” she says. “I used to see only straight hair and all that but it’s not where I’d like it to be because women are still under the impression that the European way is real beauty,” she adds. Like SR, Nanni’s is not just a place women (and men) go to get their hair done, it is a place where they learn to embrace their true selves, and re-learn that natural hair is normal; relaxed hair is not. “I see positive things for the future. I see more women cutting off their perm [6] hair and going natural, it doesn’t even have to be locs. [7] It just might be even seeing what their natural hair is. I see more people kind of testing and experimenting, and that’s the key,” she says.

“The ethnic market has never really been given a lot of respect and support from manufacturers in that they treat us all like we’re in the US,” asserts Gordon, creative director and co-owner of Ragga Hair Studio and Beauty Store. [8] “Because of the bilingualism requirements on Canadian packaging, it creates a big problem. With the market being very small and so diverse they say, ‘why should I spend the extra three cents on packaging just to accommodate that small market in Canada?’” While Gordon believes that it is not a matter of natural versus relaxed hair, he agrees that too many black women do not know how to care for their natural hair, and the latest trend – lace front wigs – is evidence of that. He states, “I have this friend of mine, she was into the lace front and she wore lace front for a year, now she’s got depigmentation around the first inch of her face all around the hairline from gluing that stuff on in order to look like Tyra Banks. It’s sad.” Lace front wigs are tied individually strand by strand to the hair cuticle to create a hair line that gives the appearance of hair that looks more “real” than a weave. There’s just one problem – they cause more damage than they hide. “I think it’s about getting back to an education and what’s good about black hair,” says Gordon, adding that “black hair is the best hair to have. It could be straight today, kinky tomorrow, and curly the next day.”

It is important to note that there are no race-based statistics in Canada on black hair care, but in the United States, the numbers are staggering. In America, black hair care (non-natural) is an

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estimated $1.8 billion to $15 billion industry. Market research firm Mintel reports that although blacks make up 13 percent of the population, they account for 30 percent of hair care spending. [9] Black hair is such a topic of interest that in 2008, Ebony Magazine [10] ran a feature story on the topic. The article was not about natural versus altered hair; instead, it was an attack on Koreans, who have monopolized the distribution and sale of black beauty products, weaves, and braid extensions, controlling approximately 90% of the US market. Aron Ranen’s 2006 documentary, Black Hair: The Korean Takeover of the Black Hair Care Industry, also highlights how much of an issue non-black control of the industry is for African Americans.

Abena Holder, a Montreal beauty products distributor, attests to the increasing non-black ownership and control of Canada’s black hair care market. “A Korean based out of Toronto has gotten in on [the product that I distribute] and now he’s coming into the Montreal market trying to get the product into stores,” she says. Whether or not Koreans have a right to monopolize the black hair care industry is a moot point because the real issue is, as Ruth asserts, hair alteration.

“When you have a Jewish man making a documentary because the black hair care industry is taken over by Koreans you have to understand that there’s a lot more involved in this....

[Koreans] are simply taking advantage of a business opportunity that exists; they are filling a need created by [blacks].” In truth, the black hair care industry’s woes lie in what is underpinning the industry in the first place; that is, a belief that straight, long, flowing hair is a more “acceptable” choice than one’s natural tress. Just as “hair can be a badge of cultural pride, as well as simply an indicator of style ...hair can be used as a medium to maintain the status quo” (Banks, 2000, p. 147).

While black hair care professionals are on the front lines trying to help women save their hair from years of relaxing, wearing weaves, tight braids, and even improper wear of dreadlocks, dermatologists see the end result of it all. Yvette Miller-Monthrope and Renee Beach, for instance, are 20-something dermatology students doing research on black hair. “Just walking in the mall you see so much traction alopecia,” says Renee. Traction alopecia is caused by chronic pulling on the hair follicle. It is a form of scarring that is most noticeable along the hairline.

While it is reported in women of many races, traction alopecia is most frequently seen in black women, and very rarely in black men. The unfortunate part of black hair care is the disconnection between one’s styling choices and subsequent hair loss. As Yvette explains: “If you get a scar from traction or from some kind of hair process that causes the hair to be damaged that hair is gone for good but you could have just [non-scarring] hair loss where the hair itself is broken and damaged but the scalp is ok. If the scalp is ok, there is the potential to grow the hair back in a good way.” There is no monolithic hair experience; however, the argument being put forth is that very few black women are even aware of the medical ramifications of altering their hair or wearing wigs. [11] Dr. Dina Strachan, a New York City board certified dermatologist, whose patients are mostly African-American women, says that the biggest complaints she receives from her patients are a lack of hair growth, breakage, and hair loss. However, the root cause of these complaints is not internal problems, but a lack of what Dr. Strachan calls “gentle hair care.” “A lot of women chemically treat their hair either to change the texture or to colour or both and no matter how good the product is, altering your hair makes it more brittle and fragile,” she says. “Even the gentle relaxers can dry out the hair and cause damage that makes the hair break. You’re altering the structure of the hair and the hair is designed to protect itself and when you straighten it out

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you change the cuticle.” According to dermatological researcher Amy McMichael (2003), chemical relaxers cause hair shaft dryness, and increased fragility of the hair cuticle, which is why users are required to treat their hair with oils and other products – in most part to lessen the potentially damaging effects of the chemicals on the hair. Further, Dr. Strachan says that there is research to suggest that wearing a weave or tight braids may set off a dermatological condition known as central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) or “hot comb” alopecia (also see McMichael, 2007). CCCA develops at the crown portion of the scalp. The hair loss is in a circular pattern, and the damage occurs to the hair follicles and leads to hair loss that is progressive.

“When you have millions of black women that don’t like the way they look,” says Ruth, and “they can’t feel good leaving their house with their own hair, you have a serious issue.” The issue is actually not about whether a woman weaves or relaxes her hair; it is about why that woman feels she has to weave or relax her hair in the first place, and a lack of knowledge about the long-term effects of such practices. The question that people often pose to Ruth is “Why do you care what another black woman chooses to do with her hair?” Does a black woman, like other women, not have the freedom of choice to wear her hair how she chooses? The mission of natural hair care providers is not to pass judgment on those who are not (yet) similarly minded; it is about sharing their insights on how beautiful natural hair is, despite all the negative messages suggesting that it is not.

For example, Patricia “Deecoily” Gaines, founder of Nappturality.com, the largest natural hair website on the net, receives hundreds of emails a year from black women around the world who are on their own individual hair journey. “It is often a very personal epiphany,” says Gaines. “It took me a long time, a very long time to see this in myself, but when I did, I finally felt free of the chains that had bound me for so long.” Gaines recalls a memory from her childhood, which exemplifies just how much hair is a social-psychological issue for black women: I remember when I was a teenager overhearing a conversation happening among a group of elder black women. They were talking about black women dating white men. One woman remarked, ‘Well, I wouldn’t want him to find out about my hair (getting it relaxed). I’d have to keep that a secret.’ They all agreed and laughed about it. I have never forgotten that and even today I think about it a lot.

“Napptural” stands for Afro-type hair that is natural, without straightening or relaxing, that is owned and worn out proudly for all to see, not under a wig or a weave. Through her website, Gaines tries to promote a positive image of napptural hair by dispelling what she calls the “3-U myth” – the myth that black hair is ugly, unmanageable and undesirable; the truth that black hair is underestimated, undervalued, and unloved; and, the goal to have black hair recognized as unique, urbane, and utopian. As she concludes: “I believe the 3-Us represent us caring for and respecting our hair for its beauty without comparison and without denigrating another hair type. Caucasian hair is a beautiful hair type in its own right, and our hair type should be recognized as beautiful in its own right, too.”

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It has been the intent of this paper to highlight how hair is an Achilles’ heal for many black women, and ultimately, why it does not (and should not) have to be. No matter what position is taken on the matter – there are always going to be people who believe that hair is just hair – Ruth’s concluding comments solidify the crux of the matter. She states, “When you can look in the mirror and you can see your natural kinky Afro or locs and it’s yours and you can say, ‘you know what, I like that’ and you know why you have to like it, because that’s what it is; when you get to the point, that’s when you start to see your true beauty.” Black hair is not just about hair; it is about identity. It is about the juxtaposition of hegemonic norms and black subjectivity; as Judith Butler (1990) reminds us, “the body gains meaning within discourse only in the context of power relations” (p. 117). Black women have the right to wear their hair however they please; but given the damaging effects of hair alteration, tight braids, and wigs, it is incumbent that hair choices be critically examined within the context of hegemonically defined beauty standards.

The challenge for black women, as Shirley Tate (2007) sullenly notes, is realizing “the ways in which we are inextricably immersed within ... essentialism’s identity, and to acknowledge that this bind is one that is not merely prohibitive, but also enabling” (p. 317; also see Kirby, 1997).

Hair alteration should be viewed as unequivocally damaging to an individual (and collective) physical, psychological and cultural well-being, or it will continue to be predicated on the belief that nappy, kinky, Afro hair is wrong, and long, straight, (i.e. White and Asian) hair is right.

Author’s Essay Bibliography Available: Black Women and Identity: What's Hair Got to Do With It? Cheryl Thompson Publication Info| Issue title: Politics and Performativity Fall 2008-2009 | vol. 22, no. 1, Fall 2008-2009 Ann Arbor, MI: MPublishing, University of Michigan Library This work is protected by copyright and may be linked to without seeking permission.

View Author Bibligraphy | http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.ark5583.0022.105

Image Credit: myblackisbeatuiful.com

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N A T U R A L H A I R P H O T O B R E A K Nzuri Natural Hair Festival 2013

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AFROCHICK POETRY LOUNGE

Featuring Poems from | Life In Technicolor Vol. 3 PEACE by Tunisia Jolyn

they i forgot how this life thing works i’ve been too busy living for them the ones that say you’re doing big things when your face is plastered on papers the ones that say you’re at the top when you’re name is plastered to no. 1 the ones that say you’re accomplished when your home is the biggest of them all oh no wonder I’ve been in a constant fall i was mentally set up to fail having amnesia of who I am gave credence for them to work me but today, I sent my resignation papers ready to go to my 24/7 job where life can finally make a living

I = We I am greater than the sum of two parts for peace resides in the acceptance of the heart no matter how battered and bruised my beat may be the unconditional rhythm will trump any ideology because I am the only one creating life like this since birth playing the drum in my own continuum on Earth

LITERATI PROFILE Tunisia Jolyn, is a writer and poet, born and raised in Philadelphia.

In 2012, the eclectic naturalista selfpublished her first book of poetry: Narcissism, Notes & Niceties on her website, The Jolyn Project.

This year the author published three poetry e-books: in the life in technicolor series—vol. 1: love, vol. 2: war and vol. 3: peace.

Read a free preview of the writer’s literary gift to the masses and purchase the series in its entirety via:

“The curls that lay on my head are an expression of my quirky personality and my love of my natural self.”

- Tunisia Jolyn

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THE NZURI NATURAL HAIR Health & Beauty FESTIVAL AN AFRICAN-AMERICAN BUSINESS STAPLE IN THE CITY OF HOUSTON, TEXAS When you think of the biggest and best “Natural Hair, Health, & Beauty Festival” there is only one event that comes to mind which is NZURI’s Natural Hair Health and Beauty Festival in Houston, Texas held annually at Reliant Center. This year’s event was brought to you by a variety of industry leaders, Magic 102.Fm and Music World Gospel helped to bring the City of Houston one of the most talked about events in the Natural Hair and beauty industry.

The theme for this year’s festival: “Embrace Your Natural Beautiful” which brought together the finest talent and exhibitors from across the country to showcase their newest products and hair styles on the market. This event stands out above the rest because it caters to a wide variety of people from the professional salon stylist to the average natural hair enthusiast, which in turn brings together every facet of the community under one roof for a two day event that has a superior level of positivity and excitement to it.

Featured talent at this year’s event was provided by sponsor Music World Gospel. Other entertainment included the: Nzuri “Top Natural Beauty Model Competition”, Nzuri “100 Carat Diamond Awards Gala”, and “THIS is MY Beautiful Conference.” The concept of open Communication, Style, Health and Natural Hair was the focus of this conference that open to the public with paid admission! Additionally, women, men, and children had the opportunity to take FREE dance lessons, learn about their cultural history, and participate in contests to win fabulous prizes.

Among all the entertainment attendees were immersed in the largest vendor beauty event in the nation featuring over 100 exhibitors from across the nation including brands such as, Bronner Brothers, Jane Carter Solutions, ORS, M&M products and so many more. Also attendees had the ability and pleasure to attend a wide variety of workshops including: sessions on styling and maintaining healthy hair from the industry’s top professionals. With over 20 classes available on-site everyone was sure to find a great session with valuable information that they can take home and use with their clients or daily life. The Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival is a must attend event for everyone young and old who care about their hair and health. For more information on the 2014 Nzuri Natural Hair Health & Beauty Festival follow the organization via Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/NzuriHairShow.

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AFROCHICK BLOGGERSPHERE INTERVIEW Artist. Writer. Educator. Model.

Jasmin Vann

When did you start your art career?

I remember mimicking Walt Disney princesses when I was ten years old on notebook paper and later a sketch pad, while living on a military base in Japan. I recently found a collage of artwork from that same time frame.

What themes do you pursue?

Positive images are extremely important to me, as I connect them to my thesis and one day my dissertation. The construction of black beauty is the basis of my research interest. This coupled with my push for positive images and messages about black women provokes me to create affirming images. Anything that empowers or encourages strikes my fancy.

Describe a real-life situation that inspired you?

I taught an English Composition course, while in graduate school. I incorporated an ongoing semester discussion about images of black women in music videos based on a series in "Essence." That coupled with reading Karrine Steffans tell-all book solidified my desire to create and hopefully perpetuate positive images to balance the negative or prevailing images in pop culture.

What role does the African American artist have in society?

The African American artist is the beacon voice that keeps our story alive; s/he keeps our story truthful and relevant.

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Is the artistic life lonely? What do you do to counteract it?

The artistic life can be lonely in the sense that I am alone a lot of the times I create; I love this! I thrive during my alone time. I do not mind it because I am a loner, who likes to be alone. I thrive in silence, peace, and quiet. I know my sensitivity and feeling things deeply is connected to being artistic. I would not trade it for the world. I assess my feelings and process them, good and bad, and do my best to process my feelings/emotions in a constructive way, rather than thwarting them or beating myself up for being angry, for example.

How does natural hair care play a role in your life as an artist?

I began my transitioning journey in June of 2013, eight years ahead of schedule. With this relatively new embarking, I am still coming to terms with this new chapter that I am completely in love with because it is educating, enlightening, and empowering. It calls to question and deeper consideration of my thought process when writing my thesis six years ago and now.

Have you ever painted pictures that depict natural black women?

I paint faces with shades of black skin. I have yet to paint images of black women with natural hair. It is definitely something I look forward to considering, processing, and doing.

How do you take care of your hair as an artist?

A woman's hair is her glory no matter how she decides to wear it/care for it. Whether my hair was relaxed or is transitioning, it is of utmost importance to me to care for it with deep conditioning and hydration. I am enjoying my hair process of traveling back to my natural hair, twenty years later. My mother had a relaxer put on my hair when we moved down South--something I look forward to delving more into during my continued graduate studies.

When is your next art show?

I look forward to Summer 2014!

Where has your work been shown?

My work has been a part of the 16th Annual MFAH Citywide Artist Exhibition and with Studio 1034.

Can clients purchase your work online?

My work is not currently on sale online. I do take special orders at this time via my contact page on my website.

What is your dream project?

My dream project is to do a series of murals of positive images across the world.

ARTIST: PROFILE: J.J. Vann | J.A.D.E. | Houston, TX Twitter: @29tothirdpower | Website: www.jjtothirdpower.com

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AFROCHICK POP-UP SHOP | News u can use in 5 minutes Natural Hair Book Review

By AFROCHICK Editorial Staff

Author, Trisha R. Thomas takes an interesting step into the world of women transitioning into the natural hair revolution and lifestyle. She creates several unique characters in Nappily Ever After (a novel); each have to face reality and transform their lives or stay the same a whirlwind that keeps spinning out of control. Meet Venus Johnson, she is sexy, educated, independent and employed. She has decided to make a dramatic and spiritual change in her life by cutting her hair off. Wait, did we mention that Venus has a sexy boyfriend named Clint – he’s been studying to become a doctor for quite some time and taking up space physically and mentally in Venus’s life. Not only does Venus cut her hair off, she cuts off the one thing that every woman wants: A relationship.

Clint is also dealing with his own personal demons and believes that Venus is being over dramatic as it pertains to chopping off her hair and demanding a commitment. They both have issues that they have to lay to rest in order to move on with their lives and become whole again. Once Venus learns that Clint has befriended a new lady, she decides to figure out if Clint is the one by a series of tests and mishaps.

Trisha R. Thomas allows readers to emotionally go on a rollercoaster with a black woman ready to make a change in her life for the better and she begins with her hair. Read Excerpt Online: http://www.randomhouse.com/highschool/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780609808986&view=excerpt

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N A T U R A L H A I R P H O T O B R E A K Nzuri Natural Hair Festival Festivities | December 2013

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N A T U R A L H A I R P H O T O B R E A K Nzuri Natural Hair Festival 2013 | Reliant Center

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A F R O C H I C K M A G A Z I N E Š by mosheflowpublishesbooks, INC. is licensed under a Creative Commons AttributionNonCommercial 4.0 International License. *Magazine Disclaimer: All images are property of the Nzuri Bloggersphere* | Publishing House: studio 1034 | Houston, Texas | Online Access: www.soflynmythirties.webs.com/afrochick.htm

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