sweet mornings sweet
125 y
savory
breakfast and brunch recipes
pat t y p in n e r author of Sweety Pies and Sweets: Soul Food Desserts and Memories
Introduction
F
or as long as I can remember, food has
always been the dominant topic of conversation among
the women in my family. Even now, when we get together, we share new recipes and encourage each other to try them. I’ve learned from these women that a delicious, home-cooked meal is a powerful way to bring peace to a household. My grandmother—we called her My My—used to tell us that breakfast was the most important meal in a love affair. She told me, “A nice breakfast for the one you love is the most intimate, triedand-true way to season a relationship.” My mother’s cousin, Evalene, who only cooked one fine meal a day—breakfast—for her husband, Stanley, once told me, “I enjoy Stanley better in the morning. I start the day off madly in love with him, but as the day wanes, so does some of that love.” I am a firm believer that cooking for others is one of the best ways to express your love for them. I prefer to cook with the freshest and finest ingredients, and all good cooks know that love is the best spice. I even consider cooking for myself to be an act of love—I’m giving myself the gift of wonderful tastes and aromas and invoking the memories of people who meant so much to me during my childhood. The act of preparing a meal reminds me of who I am and where I’m from.
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When I was growing up, my mother went out of her way to make our weekend mornings special. Her breakfasts usually included something sweet and delicious alongside her eggs, bacon, sausage, ham, and other breakfast items. Mama was one of those cooks who thought outside of the culinary box—she wouldn’t think twice about serving a sweet for breakfast that was traditionally served as a dessert. She would say, “The only thing that differentiates breakfast from dinner is the time of day. You can’t have a little sugar in the morning?” Like Mama, I enjoy brightening my mornings with luscious enhancements to my breakfast main courses. There’s nothing like filling the house with the tantalizing aroma of something sweet and spicy baking in the oven. My morning coffee is more rich and fulfilling when it’s served with my homemade doughnuts, crumb cakes, and sweet rolls. When served on my most elegant dishes, my morning sweets come to life, adding an element of celebration. I’ve been collecting sweet breakfast recipes for as long as I can remember. Most of them came from the women in my family, who guarded their recipes as if they were secret love potions. Many of my recipes go way back—they were passed down from my great-grannies, aunties, and cousins. Others came from neighborhood women famous in our community for their cooking. It gives me great pleasure to scour through my recipes and recall the stories of the women who gave them to me. My recipes are testimonials to all I’ve learned, listened to, and observed in the kitchens of other women. “Women sharpen women,” my grandmother used to say. Many of the recipes in this book reflect a time when folks lingered over their breakfast tables, rapt in conversation. They testify to my love of the sweet side of breakfast and are ideal for those weekend mornings when breakfast is served a little later than usual. Nothing soothes the soul or welcomes someone to the table like a good, hearty breakfast with a sweet treat on the side. I am pleased to share these recipes with you.
i n t r o d u ction
11
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Triple-Berry Parfait Layers of fresh fruit, whipped cream, and granola come together deliciously in this bright, refreshing summer morning delight. This is one of those versatile dishes that’s pretty enough for company and humble enough for every day. When berries are in season, I make berry parfaits every chance I get, especially on the weekends. You might even say it’s a family tradition. When I was growing up, my grandmother felt strongly about maintaining family traditions. She used to say, “Our family traditions bind us together like glue. If we didn’t come together and honor them, I suspect I wouldn‘t know the whereabouts of half of y’all, with your busy schedules and all.” Makes 4 servings
2 cups fresh blueberries
N vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped and set aside
1 cup fresh raspberries 1 cup sliced fresh strawberries
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar (divided)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1K cups heavy cream, cold
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
O cup granola without raisins, for garnish
1. Place the bowl of a stand mixer in the freezer to chill for at least 30 minutes. 2. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, lime
and lemon juices, vanilla bean seeds, and 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar. Allow the mixture to macerate for at least 30 minutes, until thick juices develop. 3. In the prepared mixer bowl, beat the heavy cream with the whisk attachment
until it is thick and stiff peaks form. As the mixer continues to run, carefully add the remaining granulated sugar. Continue beating until the mixture is well combined. Set the whipped cream aside. 3. Among 4 dessert glasses, spoon 1/3 cup of the berry mixture. Evenly spread the
whipped cream in each glass and top each with the remaining berry mixture. Sprinkle evenly with the granola. 4. Serve immediately.
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Cinnamon–Pecan Sticky Bun Ring Whenever I make these sticky buns, my guests ask for the recipe. They taste like homemade goodness, but the convenience of refrigerated biscuit dough and breakfast syrup means you can whip them up in no time. Makes 10 servings
All-purpose flour, for dusting
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
O cup chopped pecans
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons breakfast syrup
2 (10-count) tubes refrigerated buttermilk biscuit dough, separated
Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing
K cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with the cooking
spray and dust with some flour. Sprinkle the pecans and breakfast syrup into the pan. 2. In a small mixing bowl, stir together the brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon.
Sprinkle 1/3 of the sugar mixture into the prepared pan. 3. Split each round of biscuit dough in half and arrange the halves horizontally in
the prepared pan. Sprinkle the remaining sugar mixture on top of the rounds of dough. 4. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the ring is golden brown. Remove from the oven
and set aside to cool in the pan on a wire rack for 1 to 2 minutes. 5. Invert onto a serving platter and serve warm.
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Banana–Nut Waffles Banana–Nut Waffles are the epitome of a good breakfast—my father, who loved them, sure thought so. He wanted Mama to make them as often as she could. She would serve her banana waffles hot with lots of store-bought syrup, pats of sweet butter, and slices of soft bananas. Makes 6 servings
Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing
1K cups buttermilk, room temperature
3 large eggs, room temperature, separated
2 ripe bananas, mashed
1O cups all-purpose flour K cup firmly packed light brown sugar
K cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
K teaspoon salt
M cup coarsely chopped walnuts
K teaspoon ground cinnamon
Breakfast syrup, pats of butter, and sliced bananas, for serving
N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1. Preheat a lightly greased waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s directions. 2. In a small mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Set aside. 3. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients: the flour, brown and granu-
lated sugars, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Make a well in the center of the mixture and set aside.
4. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk, bananas, butter, egg yolks, baking soda, and vanilla extract and stir until well blended. 5. Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture and stir until just moistened. (Do not overmix; the batter should be lumpy.) Add the walnuts and stir until evenly blended. 6. Fold the stiff egg whites into the batter and set aside to rest for at least 5 minutes. 7. Pour 1/3 cup of the batter on the prepared waffle iron and cook according to the
manufacturer’s recommendations. Once the waffle is properly cooked, use the tines of a fork to lift it off the grid and place on a serving platter.
8. Repeat step 7 until all the batter has been used. 9. Serve hot with the breakfast syrup, pats of butter, and banana slices.
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French Toast Sandwiches Mama said once that men didn’t make French Toast Sandwiches. When I want my family to indulge in a decadent, home-cooked breakfast, I make French Toast Sandwiches. Makes 4 servings
Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing 1 cup whole milk, room temperature 3 large eggs, room temperature K teaspoon pure vanilla extract N teaspoon ground cinnamon V teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 loaf brioche or other egg bread, cut into 8 thick slices 4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature, beaten 6 tablespoons orange marmalade Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Butter and maple syrup, for serving (optional)
Freshly grated zest of 1 orange 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a rimmed baking sheet with the cooking spray
and set aside. 2. In a large mixing bowl, beat together the milk, eggs, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and salt until well blended. Add the orange juice and zest and whisk until well blended. 3. Slice each piece of the bread on the diagonal. Carefully dip both sides of the 16
pieces of bread in the milk mixture and place 1/2 of the slices of the dipped bread on a large plate. Spread the cream cheese first and then the marmalade evenly over these slices and then top each cream cheese–marmalade slice with the remaining 8 pieces of dipped bread, sandwich-style. You will now have 4 sandwiches total, each cut in 1/2 on the diagonal. 4. Place the sandwiches on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 3 to 4 minutes,
until they are golden brown on one side. Flip them over and bake for another 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown on the other side. Remove from the oven. 5. Transfer to a serving platter. Dust with the confectioners’ sugar and serve hot
with the butter and maple syrup, if using.
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Sunday-Best Sausage Bread Pudding I am always surprised when people say they have morning dishes that they reserve for holidays. Some tell me the tradition began in their families years ago, but I’m hard-pressed to recall such a memory or dish. When I was growing up, we did greet the winter cold and snow with hearty and fragrant soups and stews, had cooling treats to ward off the sun and heat of summer, and prepared fall dishes that took advantage of Michigan’s harvest, but I don’t remember saving anything that we liked to eat for a special time of year. Perhaps the closest thing I can think of is this rich and decadent sausage bake, which we made throughout the year. Mama used to say, “Life is too short to shortchange yourself.” Makes 1 9-inch µ 13-inch casserole
Nonstick cooking spray, for greasing
1 cup half-and-half, room temperature
5 cups day-old Italian bread, crusts removed, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 cup whole milk, room temperature
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
K cup finely chopped green onions
1 cup shredded Colby cheese
K teaspoon salt
1 pound pork sausage
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons dry mustard
10 large eggs, room temperature, lightly beaten 1. Grease a 9-inch × 13-inch casserole dish with the cooking spray and layer the
bread cubes inside it. Sprinkle the shredded cheese over the bread cubes. Set aside. 2. In a large nonstick skillet over medium–high heat, scramble the sausage into
bite-size pieces and cook for 5 minutes, until the meat is browned and cooked through. Remove from the heat and transfer the sausage to a colander placed over a bowl to drain. 3. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, milk, dry
mustard, and green onions. Season with the salt and black pepper and continue whisking until the ingredients are well combined.
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4. Pour the mixture evenly over the bread cubes and shredded cheese in the casse-
role dish and sprinkle the sausage over the top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. 5. Remove the casserole dish from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room
temperature for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 6. Discard the plastic wrap and bake, uncovered, for 35 to 40 minutes, until a wood-
en toothpick inserted near the center of the pudding has only a few crumbs stuck to it when you pull it out. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. 7. Transfer to a serving dish or serve hot from the casserole dish.
“Life is too short to shortchange yourself.”
—mama
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1 2 5 S W E ET A N D S AV O R Y B R E A K FA S T A N D B R U N C H R E C I P E S
pat t y pinner
T
his reliable, well-tested cookbook collects more than 125 sweet and savory op-
tions for breakfast and brunch. From doughnuts to crumb cakes to corned beef hash, these are the kinds of treats that evoke feelings of warmth and comfort like only good, old-fashioned breakfast food can. Author Patty Pinner has been collecting breakfast recipes for as long as she can remember. She comes from a long line of breakfast bakers, and many of the recipes in this book have been passed down from the greats—great-grannies and -aunties—as well as from cousins and other influential women in Pinner’s life. These authentic, generations-old recipes hark back to the wholesome basics, and they will help new bakers build their repertoire and remind older bakers of the heritage dishes they’ve made with loved ones. Many are of the “quick and easy” variety, ideal for those weekend mornings when you want to lure family to the table and have time to enjoy the homemade goodness with them. PATTY PINNER is the author of Sweety Pies: An Uncommon Collection of Womanish Observations, with Pie and Sweets: Soul Food Desserts and Memories, which was selected as one of the best cookbooks of the year by the New York Times. She lives in Saginaw, Michigan.
COOKING / COURSES & DISHES / BREAKFAST March 15, 2016 • $27.50 • 8.5 µ 10 • 272 pages ISBN: 978-1-57284-186-4 For more information, call Agate Midway at 847.475.4457, or inquire via agatepublishing.com. Please supply two tear sheets of any published review. 1328 Greenleaf St., Evanston, IL 60202 FO LLOW AGATE O NLI NE