Model Car Racing Magazine

Which Track Is Best For Your Digital System

86

March/April 2016

$6.95

Ferrari Formula 1 Champion 312 T4

www.modelcarracingmag.com

NASCAR Grand National 1949 Ford Tudor Race A Bugeye Sprite Snap-Together The Giant Blue King Track Tech Tips: • Scenery for Your Race Track • Assemble a Ferrari 250 GTO LM Kit

Flip to Page 7

to compare with the real car!

Graham Hill on his way to winning the Monaco GP in 1968. — LAT Photo,

86

Model Car Racing 3

86

CONTENTS

17 Start Here

The Grabber Does It

by Robert Schleicher

18 Real Race Track Plans

4-Lane Blue King Raceway for Scalextric Sport, Classic, SCX, Ninco, Carrera (with optional lane-changing) on a 16 x 24-foot tabletop

by Robert Schleicher

21 Race Tracks on a Tabletop

4-Lane Blue King Raceway for Scalextric Sport, Classic, SCX, Ninco, Carrera (with optional lanechanging) on a 5 x 9-foot ping-pong tabletop

by Robert Schleicher

The SRC 1/32 scale Ferrari 312 T4 of Jody Scheckter leading Gilles Villeneuve at the 1979 Italian Grand Prix at Monza. — LAT Photo

1/32 Scale Model Car Racing: 7 Formula 1 SRC 1979 Ferrari 312 T4

by Albin Burroughs

23 Vintage Racing

1970 American Model Car Raceways 22 x 49-foot 8-Lane Blue King Raceway

24 Start Here

Overpass Support for Scalextric, SCX or Ninco track

by Robert Schleicher

26 Vintage Racing

Studio 65 1959 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

10 Tech Tips Wiring A Wood or Plastic Track

12 Home Racing Build A Wood Race Track Part 5: Wiring Any Plastic or Wood Track & Race Control

by Robert Schleicher

27 Your Track

Jim Norton’s 4-Lane 8 x 16-foot 4-Lane Scalextric Boomerang Bend Raceway

30 LeMans

Slot.it Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2

by Bill Wright

33 Historic Racing

LeMans 2009 in 1/32 Scale

34 NASCAR (Grand National) American Iron 1950 Ford Tudor

by Bill Wright

38 Race Car Shop 14 Digital Racing Which Track?

by Robert Schleicher 4 Model Car Racing

LeMans Build The MRRC “Clubman” 1964 Ferrari GTO LM Kit

by Bill Deuroen

39 Tech Tips

Learn To Love Your Kit

40 Tech Tips A Third Hand

28 Your Track

Jim Norton’s 4-Lane 7 x 13-foot 4-Lane AFX Battle Creek Track

36 Muscle Cars

Auto World 1958 Plymouth Hemi Fury

37 Drag Racing

Auto World 2015 Ford Mustang GT

45 Home Racing

Auto World Banked Curve Track

42 TRACK TEST

MRRC “Clubman” 1964 Ferrari GTO LM Kit

by Marc Purdham

Departments 6 44 46 54

Editorial: Big Thrills Pit Board Club Directory New Stuff

On Your Tablet

48 LeMans

MMK Jaguar XK 140 coupe

by Albin Burroughs

50 Historic Racing

LeMans 1956 in 1/32 Scale

52 Formula 1

Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B

by Albin Burroughs

53 Tech Tips

Upgrading the Scalextric Lotus 49B

HO Model Car Racing: 22 Track Plans

Model Car Racing is now available for iPad or Kindle. Just click on the Apple iTunes icon and search for Model Car Racing to order individual issues, subscriptions or a limited number of back issues. There’s more information on page 57 of this issue.

Where To Buy Model Car Racing Products

Dealers: A listing of the addresses, phone numbers, email addresses, and websites of all the dealers that carry Model Car Racing magazine appears on our website at www.modelcarracingmag.com Manufacturers: A listing of the addresses and websites of firms that manufacture model car racing products appears on our website at www.modelcarracingmag.com:

More Information

There is an Index of all of the past issues, a Digest of the results of the first 291 cars in our Race Track Test series, Pros and Cons of plastic track by brand, the Pros and Cons of the four digital systems, Pros and Cons of 1/43 scale and an index of the 157 previously published track plans, by size, on our website at www.modelcarracingmag.com.

4-Lane Blue King Raceway on a 6 ½ x 11-foot tabletop

by Robert Schleicher

Model Car Racing 5

Editorial ������������������������� Big Thrills The concept of a winner and a loser is, apparently, part of most folk’s mindset. For us, racing centers around automobiles of every conceivable type. It is tempting to believe that every model car racer shares the same passion.

Some do. Most don’t. The physical nature of tabletop racing favors road racing because you can squeeze more action into the limited space by having both right and left hand turns. Because that focus is on road racing, there is little interest in models of cars that race strictly on ovals.

That leaves about 100 years of various types of automobiles that raced on roads, from a 1949 Grand National Ford Tudor to a 1959 "Bugeye" Sprite to a 2015 Formula 1 Williams (yes, we have two out of those three in this issue---the Bentley was back in issue number 55). Given that common interest, model car racing fans have their own unique spread of options from exact scale models, to close-enough, to the “wedge” cars that race on the commercial raceways. We do not usually feature the cars that race at the commercial raceways because they are so very different from the 1/32, HO, 1/24 or 1/43 scale models that do appear on these pages. However, for the first time we have a commercial race track plan for all of the brands of 1/32 scale track and for HO AFX track.

Back At The Dawn of Civilization Slot car racing as we know it today began in the fifties as a hobby for those that wanted to race model cars in their homes. The early tracks were built with a variety of materials ranging from plywood to plaster (yes, there was a track-building system that used a poured-plaster road surface---built one myself). In the early sixties, someone discovered that you could use an electric power router to cut a slot in particle board (some tried it with plywood but the router bits broke too quickly). Meanwhile, toy companies like Lines Brothers (with the Scalextric brand) in England were producing slot car sets with plastic track in sections much like the track used for model railroads. The snap-together track certainly broadened the appeal of model car racing but the prices of the fiftiesera Scalextric sets in America started at around $500 in today’s dollars. For American race fans, Strombecker in Chicago produced 1/32 scale slot car sets that sold for around $100 (in today's dollars) that seemed to match the promises of the more expensive Scalextric sets.

Strombecker apparently knew the best way to sell to their potential market was to offer road racing cars and the first set had a 1954 D-Type Jaguar and a 1956 Ferrari Testa Rosa. The sets sold well and Strombecker added a dozen more cars. Eldon, Revell, Monogram, Cox and other firms gushed into the market a year or two after Strombecker so, by 1964, a road racing enthusiast had wide choice of 1/32 scale cars as well sectional track. Slot car racing had triggered (literally---the early controllers were push-buttons---trigger controllers arrived about the same time commercial racing took off) a meteoric rise in American's interest in racing model cars.

By the mid-sixties there were dozens of hobby shops that had built in-store race tracks, some using plastic track, but most were tracks with the slots routed in particle board. Some of the first of these raceways were simple 6-lane figure 8 tracks, but more complex “road” courses (with broad and banked corners to allow the cars to maintain the highest possible speeds) soon evolved with eight lanes and more. These tracks were “commercial” in the sense that the tracks were expected to make money for the store from rental fees for the minutes you spent racing on the track plus, of course, purchasing cars,

6 Model Car Racing

controllers, parts and ever-more expensive chassis and motors and exotic controllers. The Blue King track on page 23 of this issue is one of the legends of commercial racing.

Door Stop Racing The slot cars that raced on commercial tracks evolved in the seventies from very accurate 1/24 scale models made

by Revell, Cox and Monogram to four-wheel machines that were about the size of a 1/24 scale model but with a wedge-shaped body that looked more like a 4-inch wide door stop wedge that a full-size race car. The wedge provided more downforce when two-inch high pieces of clear plastic sheet were stapled to the sides and rear of the body to force the airflow over the car for more downforce.

Commercial slot car racing peaked in the early seventies, then almost disappeared. The number of tracks had diminished to less than 100 tracks worldwide in the eighties. That hobby has grown slightly and stabilized at about 200 commercial raceways around the world. You won't find those cars or tracks in Model Car Racing magazine, but if speed is more important to you than absolute realism, you might enjoy racing on commercial raceways.

There are listings of commercial raceways, clubs, and websites that cater to these 1/24 scale cars on the web.

You can run realistic 1/24 scale cars on Carrera sectional plastic tracks, and Carrera, BMW and Avant Slot also offer ready-to-run 1/24 scale cars. You can also assemble your own 1/24 scale cars from a variety of static model plastic kits, clear plastic and cast-resin bodies and separate chassis (as you can in 1/32 scale). Some commercial raceways offer special events for these exact-scale 1/24 scale cars. You can, of course, race any 1/32 scale car on a commercial raceway, but the car will be lost in the vastness of the track and the 1/32 scale models are not rugged enough to withstand the high speed crashes that occur on commercial race tracks.

The Thrill of Speed

seventies and the plans in this issue replicate that monster raceway. It has taken a couple of decades for these plans to materialize but I realized that racing on a commercial track really is fun. Those of you that have know it is true. There is too much speed and too much focus on machines rather than replicas of real racing cars for my tastes, but it is fun. And there is a definite appeal about being able to run with your trigger finger squeezed tight for all but a few instants of every lap. If you have the space (and the loot to buy the track) build a track from one of these plans. Who knows, you may find that it really is another way to experience the thrill of racing.

iHobby Expo March 12 and 13, 2016. The National Hobby show, the iHobby Expo, is now at the New Jersey Expo Center, in Edison New Jersey, about 20-minutes from the Newark Airport. The iHobby Expo (http://ihobbyexpo.com/) is the largest gathering in the United States for the model car racing importers and manufacturers. Usually, Scalextric, Slot.it, AFX and Auto World have demo tracks as well as displays of their latest products.

Volume 15, Number 2 (issue number 86) March/April 2016 Publisher: Robert Schleicher

Technical Editor: Chris Walker

Editor: Robert Schleicher

Track Test Editor: Marc Purdham

Layout & Design: Aaron Tipton - aaron@atgd.net Contributing Editors: Mark Gussin Jeremy Dunning Jason Boye Dan Wilson Alan Schwartz Dan Esposito Brad Bowman Bernard Sampson Pat Dennis Editors Emeritus: Rocky Russo Bill Sipple Jose Rodriguez Jim Russell Bob Braverman Ron Klein

Albin Adams

Slot car racing on a commercial race track certainly does have an appeal. The long straights and banked turns allow the cars to reach speeds that are close to the actual speed of a real car. Most of the commercial raceways have braided copper pickup strips so there is nothing to provide magnetic downforce. There are no magnets to hold the cars into the slots through the corners but those wedge-shaped bodies and clear plastic air dams allow the speeding cars to produce more downforce than the magnets in 1/32 scale cars.

Circulation & Dealer Contact: email: modelcarracingmag@hotmail.com Model Car Racing Publications, Inc. 6525 Gunpark Drive, Suite 370-142 Boulder, CO 80301-3346 website: www.modelcarracingmag.com

You can experience some of that speed with a 1/32 scale car on a home track that has at least one 30-foot long straight. Most 1/32 scale cars will reach top speed in about 5 feet or so and that 25 extra feet gives you enough time to sense the speed. The corners on all home raceways, even on the massive track on pages 18-20, are much tighter than on the commercial raceways but the downforce magnets in the 1/32 scale and HO cars allow the cars to zip through the tighter corners at what at least appears to be speeds that match the speeds of the commercial slot cars.

Individual issue price $6.95. No current issues or back issues are available from the publisher but a list of dealers who carry the magazine is on the website at www.modelcarracingmag.com. All sales and subscriptions are not returnable.

Own Your Own Rent-A-Raceway

Model Car Racing assumes that all letters, new product information, photographs of any kind, and other unsolicited materials are contributed gratis whether mailed or sent electronically. Model Car Racing assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material. Solicited articles and photographs are paid for within 45 days after publication, at which time Model Car Racing obtains full publication rights. Unsolicited materials can be returned if adequate postage is included.

You can have your own commercial race track---or at least a working replica scaled-down for 1/32 or HO cars ---using snap-together plastic track. The Blue King was one of the largest of 8-lane commercial race tracks in the

Model Car Racing (USPS 020-443, ISSN 1538-9170) is published bimonthly by Model Car Racing Publications, Inc., 6525 Gunpark Drive, Suite 370-142, Boulder, CO 80301-3346. Copyright 2016, Model Car Racing Publications, Inc.

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Formula 1: SRC (Slot Racing Company) 1979 Ferrari 312 T4 This Ferrari 312 T4 and the 1979 Renault R10 are the first two Formula 1 cars to come from SRC. The Ferrari model is nicely detailed and should match the performance of previous seventies-era Grand Prix cars from Flyslot and Scalextric.

You can compare the SRC (Slot Racing Company) 1/32 scale model to the full-size car — the model is on the cover (and on page 9) — this is the full-size car.

Jody Scheckter leading Gilles Villeneuve, both in Ferrari 312 T4 cars, at the 1979 Italian Grand Prix at Monza. — LAT Photo

■■by Albin Burroughs The 1979 Ferrari 312 T4 carried essentially the same flat 12-cylinder engine and gearbox as the 312T from 1974. Ferrari’s 312 T3 won the 1977 championship but Lotus had a better grasp (sorry about that) on the downforce created by the ground effects chassis for 1978 and Mario Andretti trounced the Ferraris. This was the era when vertical “skirts” that rubbed the track surface under springload were allowed along the sides of the car to help increase the ground effects downforce. The 312 T4 was Ferrari’s first full-chassis design to incorporate ground effects for cornering downforce and Ferrari was almost as quick as Lotus through the corners. What Ferrari did have that other teams lacked, was reliability. The 312 T4 won six races outright in the 1979 Grand Prix season. Jody Scheckter and Gilles Villeneuve won three apiece, but Scheckter had a few higher placings and just four (51 to 47) more points to become the 1979 champion.

The SRC model is a one of the best examples of applied engineering to improve the appearance of a model without any reduction in its performance. If we offered a “Car Of The Year” award it would likely go to SRC for this Ferrari because they have upped the state-of-the-art in both the appearance and mechanics of 1/32 scale cars. The rear portion of the car is near exact scale because SRC moved the pinion gear away from the center of the car by mounting the FF-size motor at an angle to leave room for a pair of idler gears. The gear reduction is accomplished with a 6-tooth pinion gear on the motor and a 18-tooth spur gear on the idler shaft for a 3.00:1 gear ratio. A 12-tooth bevel gear is also mounted on the idler shaft and it, in turn, drives a second 12-tooth gear on the axle to provide the final drive at a 1:1 ratio. Thanks to the primary 6/18 set of gears the overall gear ratio matches that on the Flyslot and Slotwings cars. The 312 T4 has a brass bear-

Model Car Racing 7

ing pillow block to keep the idler gears in alignment. The double-gear reduction is very similar to that used in the Flyslot Williams and the forthcoming Policar Lotus 72 has a somewhat different application of double gear reduction.

The SRC model captures the odd shape and proportions of the Ferrari 312 T4 very nicely. Even the sliding skirts along the lower sides of the body are included as separate etched-metal parts—but you would really only want them when displaying the model. The front wheels have steering that eliminates the unsightly solid front axle on the model but the wheels are wobbly (as they are on the similar Flyslot and Scalextric late-seventies F1 cars). The intricate suspensions arms on the full-size car are recreated nicely on the model. The rear portion of the model is very well detailed with etched-metal supports for the rear wing (with different mounts to accurately match the no. 11 and no. 12 cars) and visible suspension arms and gearbox cover. Wire (non-working) coil springs are in place to recreate both the front and rear suspension detail. All four tires are marked with the chalked-on identification the team mechanics would apply on fresh tires. SRC has replicas of Jody Scheckter’s no. 11 and Gilles Villeneuve’s no. 12 cars. SRC also has replicas of the Renault RS10 cars that finished eighth and thirteenth in the 1979 Championship.

Even with those wide tires, the full-size seventies era Grand Prix cars did slide.

You can recreate both the look and feel of driving an F1 car from this era by removing the downforce magnet. You will, however, want to regain some of the lost traction by replacing the rear tires with urethanes like the number 13270 from K & D (http://www.homeracingworld.com/kdracing2.htm). If you want to replace the rear wheels (and the front) with set-screw-mount aluminum wheels they are available from Penelope Pitlane (http://pendleslotracing.co.uk/) to fit the stock or the K&D tires.

• Scalextric 1976 McLaren M23 (July/August 2007 number 34 issue) • Scalextric 1970-72 Lotus 72 (November/ December 2014 number 78 issue) • Scalextric 1971 Tyrrell 003 • Scalextric 1972 Tyrell 003/004 (November/ December 2014 number 78 issue) • SCX 1971 Tyrrell 001 (November/December 2005 number 24 issue) • SCX 1976 McLaren M9A (November/December 2006 number 30 issue) SRC (Slot Racing Company) 1979 Ferrari 312 T4

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model The dimensions of the should be in 1/32 scale: SRC model:

Length:

175.5 in.(4,460 mm)

5.48 in. (127.4 mm)

5.04 in. (127.9 mm)

Width:

83.4 in. (2,120 mm)

2.61 in. (127.4 mm)

2.68 in. (68.0 mm)

Height:

NA

NA

1.21 in. (30.6 mm)

Wheelbase*

106.3 in. (2,700 mm)

3.32 in. (84.4 mm)

3.36 in. (85.4 mm)

Track, Front:

66.9 in. (1,700 mm)

2.09 in. (127.4 mm)

2.19 in. (55.4 mm)

Track, Rear:

62.9 in. (1,600 mm)

1.97 in. (127.4 mm)

2.13 in. (54.1 mm)

Tires, Front:

NA

NA

9.6 x 18.3 mm

Tires, Rear:

NA

NA

16.0 x 20.6 mm

Weight:

1,301 lbs.

NA

52 grams (1 7/8 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

20 grams (3/4 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

32 grams (1 1/8 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

95 grams (3 oz.)

½½ 70S-80S’ Historic Formula 1 In 1/32 Scale:

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

168 grams (6 oz.)

You can recreate the majority of the grid from most of the races in the 19711983 period in 1/32 scale with these models:

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

0.7 mm (.030 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

0.6 mm (.025 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

91.9 mm (3.62 in.)

Gear Ratio:

3.00:1 (6/18)

• Flyslot 1976 March 761 (September/October 2007 number 35 issue) • Flycar 1979 Williams FW07 Formula 1, #51 (May/ June 2010 number 51 issue)

Source: THE AUTOCOURSE HISTORY OF THE GRAND PRIX CAR, 1966-85, by Doug Nye, Hazeleton Publishing 1986 ISBN 0905138376 (out of print)

• Slotwings (Flyslot) 1977 Lotus 78 (November/ December 2011 number 60 issue)

½½ How Fast With The Downforce Magnet?

• Slotwings (Flyslot) 1983 Williams FW08 (November/ December 2014 number 78 issue) • Flyslot (Slotwings) 1975 Brabham BT44B (September/ October 2015 number 83 issue) • Scalextric 1976 Ferrari 312T2 (July/August 2007 number 34 issue)

8 Model Car Racing

We received the model too close to our deadline to perform a full Race Track Test, however, the SRC 1979 Ferrari 312 T4 has similar gearing, weight, size and downforce to the Flyslot 1979 Williams FW07---the two cars were designed to have equal performance---so the SRC Ferrari should match the performance of the Flyslot Williams that was Race Track Tested “out-of-the-box” (with the downforce magnet in place and the stock rear tires) in the in the May/June 2010 number 51.

½½ Model Car Racing Track Test:

Model Car Racing Track Test: "Out-of-the-Box" Lap Times 36-foot Scalextric Flyslot 1979 Williams FW07 (with downforce magnet)

Indy F1 Course:

36-foot Carrera Indy F1 Course:

Flyslot 1979 Williams FW07 (with downforce magnet)

3.35 sec.

3.53 sec.

Scalextric 1992 McLaren MP4/7 (with downforce magnet)

3.39 sec.

3.71 sec.

Scalextric 1992 Williams FW14B (with downforce magnet)

3.39 sec.

3.71 sec.

SCX 1991 McLaren MP4/6 “Magnet-free”

5.12 sec.

4.60 sec.

Fly 1976 March 761 (with downforce magnet)

3.39 sec.

3.59 sec.

Scalextric 1976 Ferrari 312T2 (with downforce magnet)

3.72 sec.

3.66 sec.

NOTES: The Flycar 1979 Williams FW07 was Race Track Tested in the May/June 2010 number 51 issue, the SCX 1991 McLaren MP4/6 in January/February 2010 number 49 issue and it was the first historic Grand Prix car we tested without a traction magnet (we did replace the stock tires with Super Tires). The other historic Grand Prix cars, here, were all Race Track Tested with traction magnets in place.

The Scalextric 1992 Williams FW14B was Race Track Tested in the March/April 2010 number 50 issue, the SCX 1991 McLaren MP4/6 was Race Track Tested in the November/December 2009 number 48 issue, the Fly 1976 March 761 in the September/October 2007 number 35 issue, and the Scalextric 1976 Ferrari 312T3 (and McLaren M23) in the July/August 2007 number 34 issue.

The gear reduction is accomplished with a 6-tooth pinion gear on the motor and an 18-tooth spur gear on a parallel idler shaft for a 3.00:1 gear ratio. A 12-tooth bevel gear is also mounted on the idler shaft and it, in turn, drives a second 12-tooth gear on the axle to provide the final drive at a 1:1 ratio. The motor is the slim “FF” style.

The SRC Ferrari 312 T4 is their first 1/32 scale Formula 1 model. There’s a small downforce magnet under the rear axle.

The front wheels steer, guided by the pickup, so there is no ugly front axle.

Model Car Racing 9

TECH TIPS ������������������������

½½Wiring a Wood or Plastic Track

The basic wiring for one lane on this 35-foot track includes three pairs of jumper wires. The three are connected to a terminal strip (bottom) to make it easier to discover any crossed wires. Honestly, I managed to connect at least one black wire where it should have been red. And blew a half-dozen fuses finding my error.

The wiring diagram for a typical two-lane track. It can be extended to the right for an infinite number of lanes. The sockets are 1/8-inch three-tab stereo sockets to match the jacks on Scalextric and Ninco controllers---Slot.it and Professor Motor controllers are available with these jacks. This diagram includes the option of controller plugs, an on-off switch, a circuit breaker and a reversing switch.

Two wires lead from the terminal strip to the control panel. When you install the Radio Shack spade tongue terminals on your wires, crimp the terminals with a crimping tool but solder each spade to its wire as well--I tried to skip that and had several wires just pull free.

If you are building a wood track, simply connect the track wires to the screws that you installed when you started laying copper or silver tape or braid as shown in the January/February 2016 number 85 issue. If you are connecting power wires to plastic track used acid flux to make quicker solder joints. The flux allows the solder to bond quicker so you can remove the heat before the hot rail melts the plastic in the slot. When the soldering is complete, flush the area with water to remove any trace of acid.

The You will need more than just two wires for each lane---jumper wires will be needed for about every 20-feet of track so there is no power loss. The simple way to keep track of all that wiring is to use terminal strips; here, one terminal strip is for all the red lane wires and a second terminal strip for all the blue lane wires. Be careful to always connect the black wire to the left pickup strip and the red wire to the right pickup strip. Only one set of wires is shown connected to a piece of plastic track. The additional jumper wires will connect to an appropriate red or blue terminal strip. The “control panels” are from Slot Car Corner to organize the controller connector 1/8-inch stereo sockets, reversing switch, fuses for power and brake wires and, on these, there are three optional posts to connect controllers that have alligator clips. I used Radio Shack #6 spade terminals and a roll of 18 gauge speaker wire.

10 Model Car Racing

The wires for the blue lane connected to the terminal strip that is connected to the control panel. The wiring is the same for the red lane and red control panel. If your track is four lane, you’ll need four control panels and four sets of wires like this.

Slot Car Corner Enhanced Controller Hookup Panels are essentially commercial grade with solder spade connectors and carefully bundled wires. All of the retaining nuts are locked place with a dab of silicone.

I covered the exposed ends of the three controller hookup posts with acorn nuts so the posts would not catch on the driver’s pant legs.

I mounted the terminal strips to the edge of the table beside the control panel to make it easier to access them to check for any short circuits.

I mounted the control panel for the red lane as far as I could from the control panel for the blue lane so drivers could also serve as corner marshals. All of the track plans in this magazine indicate separate positions for controller-connector tracks for this same reason.

I bolted the control panels and the terminal strips to the edges of the ping-pong table that supports the track. Drill Âź-inch holes to match the hole spacing on the panel.

Looking down the main straight on the Albert Hetzel’s Suzuka Grand Prix track. The dials are an ammeter and a voltmeter he added to see how much current the car on each lane draws. Plans for the track are in the September/October 2015 number 83 issue.

Model Car Racing 11

Home Racing Build a Race Track Part 5. Wiring Any Plastic or Wood Track & Race Control The majority of articles in this series apply to building a race track with the slots routed in MDF board. However, these techniques for wiring the track and power supply as well as the basic table construction in Part 1, are the same whether you are using Scalextric, Ninco, SCX or Carrera plastic track or routing the slots in MDF board. This series will take you all the way though the process.

In future issues we’ll show you how to add realistic scenery and how to race on the track. The techniques and materials to build benchwork to support the tabletop are in the July/August 2015 number 82 issue, step-by-step information on how to draw the track on the tabletop are in the September/October 2015 number 83 issue, the tools and techniques to route the slots in a wood track with a power router are in the November/December 2015 number 84 issue and the best methods of laying copper or silvered tape or braid for pickup strips are in January/February 2016 number 85 issue.

■■by Robert Schleicher You will need to install your own wiring. Use 18 or 20 gauge insulated wire so there is no power loss through the wires. It is an extremely confusing ”art” but the secret is to be sure every wire is color coded. Decide, for example, if you want the left rail to be coded black and the right rail to be coded red (“red is right” is the usual memory-jogger) and follow that pattern around the track. Most model car racers color-code the lanes (there’s more on that on www.modelcarracingmag.com under “New to the hobby?”) and it is common to use red for one lane blue for the other. Yes, that can be confusing because the red lane needs one wire (for that right rail) and the blue lane also needs one red wire (for that right rail).

The confusion should only last while you are connecting the wires---the red dots are easier to spot once the racing begins. It can be helpful to place some temporary self-adhesive red dots on the right of BOTH of the slots to indicate the wire connections in addition to red and blue dots to identify which lane is supposed be blue and which red---with an convoluted track, left and right are not all that obvious. The screws that hold the ends of the braid or tape are the obvious place to connect the wires from the power pack.

You will want to purchase a regulated transformer with adjustable voltage like the Professor Motor (www.professormotor.com) PMTR1400B 15 Amp 0-20V

12 Model Car Racing

Power Supply that is adjustable from 0 to 20 volts DC. The power is enough so that no car will lack power and the adjustable feature will allow you select specific voltages for different classes; like 9 volts for early era cars, perhaps 6 for friends just learning to drive and an exact 12 volt for most club races.

If your track length is longer than about 20-feet, you will find there is a loss of power the further you get from the terminal track. To avoid this annoying power loss install a jumper cable from the track to the power pack (or to the terminal strips) about every 15 to 20 feet of track.

½½ Control Panels You will need some place to locate the stereo jack sockets to connect the controllers' jacks to the track. I used the rugged “Driver’s Station” panels from Slot Car Corner. They can custom-make panels for you or you can simply order the components and make your own. Finally, there are two fuses, one for the brake circuit and a second for the power circuit. There’s wide choice of options including several styles of controller sockets, three-post mounting for controller with clip-on wires, reversing switches or not, fuses, and even a “kill” button. You

can contact Slot Car Corner at www.slotcarcorner.com/ or by mail at 4 Rainbow Drive, Nashua, NH 03062 (or phone 603-753-6263). The panels have standard color coding (black, white, red). Each lane’s wiring should include circuit protection to prevent damage to controllers, track wiring, the track itself and racers.

They recommend auto-resetting circuit protection devices for the brake/red circuit (1.8 amps) and power/white circuit (2.5 amps) for each lane.

You will also want to install reversing DPDT switches and sockets to accept your favorite controllers. The "So-Cal" wiring diagram indicates where to install the sockets and reversing switches in the circuit. The switches themselves can be mounted on a panel on the edge of the track. The easiest-to-use reversing switches are the Atlas "Twin" slide-style switches designed for model railroads.

Some track builders prefer both a 1/8-inch (3.5 mm) telephone jack socket and three exposed screw posts where racers can connect their controllers with alligator clips. It's your track, you pick the type of controller connection.

½½ Lap Counters Install the sensors or lights for your choice of lap counters as soon as you are sure the track is running properly. There’s more information on the various types of lap counters on www.modelcarracingmag.com under the “New to the hobby?” link. Carrera, Scalextric, NINCO, SCX and AFX all offer lap counters and they are used on several wood tracks but you will need to be sure that the

lane spacing beneath the lap counter matches that for the light sensor. There are also some accessory brand lap counters and timers you might want to consider.

• DS Electronic Racing Products, lap counters and timers--Scaleracing L.L.C., 3723 South Lawrence St., Tacoma WA 98409 (253) 564-1445, (www.scaleracing.com) for American dealers.

• TrakMate, 14624 - 102 Avenue, Surrey, BC, V3R 7E5, Canada, 604-582-1946, 1-877-SLOTCAR, http://www.infoserve.net/ oss/slotcar/ lap counters and drag racing timers for PC • SlotMaster , www.slotmaster.com computerinterfaced lap counting and timing programs • Lap Timer 2000 http://www.gregorybraun.com/LapTimer.html • Computer-run lap timer for PC systems. Professor Motor, 32104 Plymouth Road, Livonia, MI 48150, (734) 462-4226, http:// professormotor.com hardware for use with PC Lapcounter softwear • PC Lapcounter http://pclapcounter.be/, softwear for PCs and MS DOS compatible with most electronic-trigger lap counters from SCX, NINCO, Scalextric and Carrera, Lap Timer 2000, Trakmate, Professor Motor and other systems for analog cars.

The basic wiring on any slot car track from power pack to track to controller. Because the controller plugs in and you may want reversing the actual wiring is more complex.

Model Car Racing 13

Digital Racing Which Track?

Each band of digital racing has its particular advantages and disadvantages as shown in the “Pros and Cons” article in the January/February 2016 number 85 issue (also on www.modelcarracingmag.com under “Sample Issues”). The track itself can be far more important than the system---if you love the track, you can usually work around the shortcomings you perceive in the digital system.

If the track is too narrow or too big or too expensive, you might be wiling to compromise and select the digital system that was your “second choice”.

• Easy changeover to Scalextric Digital with C7042 Advanced 6 Car Powerbase • Slightly rough surface (allows a broader choice of supergrip tires for powerslides through corners) • Best variety of different track sections • Great-looking borders for all curves • Cars are less noisy on this relatively soft track • Flexible enough to allow some misalignment • Flexible enough to allow slight banking in turns • Outer-outer lanes available • Great looking guard rails • Interchange track to join with Scalextric and SCX and can be adapted to Ninco

Pros for Digital: • Lane-changers are only 1 ½-straights long • Changeover to analog requires just a push of a button and taping the lane changer flaps shut.

Cons: • Track comes apart too easily to be moved without compete disassembly • Borders do not attach firmly enough for use on crossing bridges • Borders for all curves are not wide enough for longer cars like NASCAR • Lane spacing a bit close for modern Formula 1 and sports/GT cars • Only two sizes of banked curves available

Cons Digital: • Lane changers are 1 1/2 straights long • No curved or single lane changers available

Carrera Track: Pros: The Scalextric Digital system features a double lane-changer that is 1 1/2 straights long.

½½ Picking the Best Track; Pros and Cons

• Track holds together tightly enough to operate on carpet or to move • Offers outer-outer curves

Scalextric Sport Track:

• Offers outer-outer-outer curves

Pros:

• Borders are wide enough for any 1/32 scale car

• Snap-together assembly and disassembly

• Offers banked turns

• Locks together well on a solid floor or tabletop

14 Model Car Racing

• Offers borders for all curves

Pros Digital:

Cons:

• Curved and single lane-changers available

• Track surface too rough in some racers' opinions

• A wide range of race control track sections and displays

• Can be more difficult to find

• Pit lane entrance exit tracks are available in both short and long versions

• Can be more expensive

Cons: • Plastic tabs can break-off if track is carelessly disassembled.

• No banked track • Color of borders not realistic

• Track can break if stepped on

Cons Digital:

• Borders have "Construction Zone" red and white chevrons

• Limited number of lane-changing sections available

• Solid wall guardrails not realistic • Requires slightly more space for some track plans

Cons Digital: • Changeover to analog requires replacing the connector track and controllers • Lane changers are two full straights long.

SCX “Universal” Track: Pros: • Snap-together assembly and disassembly • Locks together well on a sold floor or tabletop • Slightly rough surface (allows a broader choice of supergrip ties for powerslides through corners) • Good variety of different track sections • Great-looking borders for all curves • Cars are less noisy on this relatively soft track • Flexible enough to allow some misalignment • Flexible enough to allow slight banking in turns • Great looking guard rails • Outer-outer lanes available

Pro Digital: • Lane changers one-straight long • Lane changers are mechanical less expensive so more can be used

Cons: • Track comes apart too easily to be moved without compete disassembly • Lane spacing a bit close for modern Formula 1 and sports/GT cars • No banked curves available

Cons Digital: • Changeover to analog requires replacing the connector track and controllers

Ninco Track: Pros: • Track assembles easily and holds together well • Offers outer-outer curves • Offers outer-outer-outer curves • Slot deep enough to allow any brand of car to operate • Cars are less noisy on this relatively soft track • Flexible enough to allow some misalignment • Flexible enough to allow some banking in turns • Borders available for inside and outside of all curves • Borders for outer curves are wide enough

Pros Digital: • Lane changers are just one-straight long

The Scalextric as shown in the November/December 2015 number 84 issue (also on www.modelcarracingmag.com under "Sample Issues") Digital Pit Lane track sections allow one lane to enter the pit area or they can be stacked and used with double-lane changers to recreate the action of full-size race car pit stops.

Model Car Racing 15

Carrera offers pit lane entrances and exits in two sizes.

The SCX Digital lane–changers are just one-straight long and are relatively inexpensive so more can be used.

Carrera offers both single (shown) and double lane-changers that are two full straights long

The Ninco N-Digital lane-changers are just one-straight long so it is easier to use more of them.

Carrera offers four versions of the curved single-lane changers so you can recreate the “inside line� action of full-size car racing.

16 Model Car Racing

Start Here: Never Out of Reach, The Grabber Does It If any of the track on your raceway allows the cars to deslot more than three-feet from the edge of the table, the corner marshals will need use these “grabbers” (remote-control mechanical tongs on a stick that drug stores sell for wheelchair-bound people to be able reach and hold cans, cups or plates) to reach the deslotted cars.

About half of the track on pages 18-20 is four-feet from the nearest table edge so the “grabbers” that are sold by drug stores so wheelchair-bound folks can reach the upper shelves are used to grab the cars that deslot in the center of the track.

Both of the plans on pages 18-20 position the track too far from the table edges for corner marshals to reach. To grab those deslotted cars the marshals can use on of “grabbers” that drug stores and departments sell for wheelchair-bound folks to reach for pales and containers. Squeeze the pistol grip and padded jaws to grab the car.

Model Car Racing 17

Real Race Track Plans 4-Lane Blue King Raceway In 16 X 24-Feet: With (Optional) Lane-Changing for Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX, Ninco or Carrera The 84 race track plans in this series have been recreations of at least part of a 1/1-scale full-size track. This one, though, is also a recreation of a 1/32 scale version of a 1/24 scale track, the American Model Car Raceways Blue King 8-lane commercial race track of the seventies as shown on page 23. This is the largest track plan we have published.

We have requests for a plastic recreation of the wood commercial tracks and the Blue King was the most famous. These Blue King raceways for plastic track are as close as you can get to recreating a wood track in plastic because they utilize the largest curves available with no regard for how much space is needed. These tracks are 4-lane, while the commercial tracks were usually 8-lanes or more. If you are racing digital 1/32 scale cars, however, you can race six cars in the two outer lanes. You could race two more on the inner lanes but mixing digital and analog on the same track can be a disaster because the analog cars will go flat-out if they accidentally jump into one of the digital lanes.

■■by Robert Schleicher There are two very distinct versions of slot car racing; (1) the hobby where the enthusiasts race 1/32 scale cars on tracks in private homes and (2) another hobby where the racers drive 1/24 scale cars on tracks in retail stores where the tracks are rented to the racers by the hour. The commercial race tracks are much larger than most home tracks and usually have eight or more lanes and few have any scenery that might make the track look anything like a full-size race track. Since commercial racing is another hobby, it has never been featured in Model Car Racing magazine. Many of us do remember commercial raceways and there has often been a fantasy of “What would it be like to have a commercial race track in my home?” Well several hundred enthusiasts actually bought those commercial race tracks and installed them in huge basements or rented warehouses and many are still in active use. But could you actually assemble a “commercial” raceway from plastic track? And, if so, could it be as big as the famous Blue King commercial track? The answer is on these pages, a “Blue King” track in 12 x 24feet for Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX or Ninco track and 16 x 24-feet for Carrera track and 6 ½ x 11-feet for the HO AFX version on page 22.

The cars that race on the commercial raceways do not have magnets because the plated copper pickup braid does not offer any magnetic attraction. The commercial cars do, however, have aerodynamic downforce with wedge shapes and 3-inch tall clear plastic air dams down the sides and across the tail to keep that downforce from slipping off the edges of the car. They are several-times faster than the quickest 1/32 scale cars but the magnetic downforce in 1/32 scale cars might provide

18 Model Car Racing

a similar high speed experience. Virtually any out-of-the-box 1/32 scale car will have enough magnetic downforce to be able to hold the car down through the banked curves on the Carrera track with the cars running at full throttle. You can, of course, install quicker motors so you will need lift-off for the tighter corners. As large as these Scalextric, SCX, Ninco and Carrera tracks are, though, you will come closer to the experience of racing on a commercial track if you pull the magnets from the cars and replace the rear tires with urethanes.

½½ The Blue King For Plastic Track The Carrera version is most similar to a commercial race track because Carrera offers steeply-banked curves and the lane spacing on Carrera track is wide enough to allow 1/24 scale cars to race, including the wedged-shaped machines that race on the wood commercial race tracks. Carrera does offer exact-scale 1/24 scale cars, as do BRM and ScaleAuto. The massive Carrera track fills a 16 x 24 tabletop. The left end of the track can be placed against a wall but there must be an access aisle around the three right sides of the track so it will require a minimum 22 x 30-foot area. The Carrera plan utilizes mostly their R3 outerouter banked curves with Turn 1 a flat-out Carrera R4 outer-outer-outer banked curve (which is also available flat).

The Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX and Ninco version fits on a slightly smaller 12 x 24-foot tabletop because the largest curves these brands offer are tighter

than Carrera’s so that was all the space that was needed. All of the curves on this Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX and Ninco plan are largest they offer.

Both of these plans position the track too far from the table edges for the corner marshals to reach. To grab those deslotted cars the marshals can use one of the “grabbers” (on page 17 of this issue) that drug stores and departments sell for wheelchair-bound folks to reach for plates and containers. Squeeze the pistol grip and the padded jaws close to grab the car. If you have more space, the plans can be lengthened at the points marked “L” on the plan but the angled straight make impractical to fit the plan in a smaller space. We’ll reduce the plans a bit and present the smaller versions in a later issue.

½½ The Massive Blue King Raceway In 1/32 Scale Each of the plans features the largest possible curves for the major corners to recreate as much of that flat-out speed of the giant 8-lane wood raceways of the seventies as possible. It is difficult to guess just how quickly a magnet-stuck out-of-the-box car might go on these tracks. Cars that raced on the 155-foot lap length (22 x 49-foot) Blue King track could turn 1.5 second lap times. The Carrera version is only about half the length, at an average of about 88-feet per lap. But, even with magnets, it will be unlikely the 1/32 scale cars will lap under five seconds. That is fast, relative to their size, about as bullet-quick as the speed of HO cars.

Note that on any four-lane track the outer lanes have both the largest and smallest curve sizes. This usually makes the inner and outer of the four lanes (call them lanes 1 and 4) about equal. Usually, though, the two middle lanes (call them lanes 2 and 3) are actually quickest because they are shorter through the broad curves without the need to slow down as much for the tight curves. With banked turns like Carrera’s, however, it will likely the be the lap length of each lane that makes the difference because the cars are going to be able to fly flatout around the entire track in any lane. You could add two lanes inside each curve but that would defeat the high-speed purpose of the track because those two outer lanes would then have both the largest and the smallest curves which would likely make the two middle lanes quickest and neither would have those broad curves.

If you are using Scalextric/Classic/SCX/Ninco track it must be mounted on 1/8inch plywood for the elevated overpass section around curve T5 as shown on pages 24-25 for the portion of the track at the overpass. If you are using Carrera track you can simply use the Carrera conventional number C85201 vertical post supports because the track joints and the track itself is stiff enough to not need a plywood backing. The Carrera number 20587 overpass (they call it a “crossing”) is too steep up and downhill for this high-speed track.

The Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX and Ninco version has flat curves because none of these companies offer banked curves in their largest radius. However, these brands will allow faster cornering speeds than on Carrera track because the track rails have more iron content in the pickup rails than Carrera's rails so all of the magnet-stuck cars produce more downforce. Scalextric only makes two sizes of banked turns; R2 (“S” on the plans) and R3 (“O” on plans) so turns T2 and T3 could be assembled as banked turns so the racing speeds would similar to the broader curves at T1 and T4 through T8. The best way to “bank” the turns with Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX or Ninco track would be to put a 1/8-inch plywood sheet beneath the curve, then simply bend the curve upward about 15-degrees and block it in place wedges of wood. You could experiment with different degrees of banking to see how steep you could go without creating some disturbing crash sites.

The Carrera banked turns are broad enough and the banking is steep enough so all of magnet-stuck cars should be able to take all of the curves on the Carrera track (including the inner lane of the tightest curve) flat-out. You might want reconsider using banked turns on every corner with banking only Turn 1 so the

cars can carry their straight line speed through that first corner. The remaining turns are large enough so that the magnet-stuck cars can negotiate most with just a slight reduction in trigger pressure on the controller.

½½ Carrera Banked vs. Flat Curves Flat Curves

Banked Curves

O

20572 Middle Curve

R2

20575 Banked Outer Curve R2

OO

20573 Outer Curve R3

N

20576 Banked Outer-Outer Curve R3

OOO

20578 Outer-Outer Curve R4

P

20579 Banked Outer-Outer-Outer Curve R4

½½ Is Flat-Out Too Fast??

Be careful what you ask for. Most 1/32 scale cars, even without downforce magnets, will be able to negotiate both of these tracks at full throttle. So, you have maximum speed for as long as the motors last. It would be wise to remove the magnets from all of the cars because there is less strain on the motor, the cars will likely be faster without the magnets, and there’s a possible chance that one or more of the corners on the inner lanes might be tight enough that you will need to lift-off on the throttle to keep the car in the slot.

I do not recommend that you dash out and buy enough track to build these raceways. If you are racing on Scalextric, SCX or Ninco track buy a 360-degree set of the largest outer-outer curves, a half-dozen straights and try racing around them. If you are using Carrera track buy a 360-degree set of the 20575 Banked Outer Curve R2 because these relatively tight banked curves can usually be driven at full throttle by cars without downforce magnets. You may find the cars can turn lap times as quick using only flat curves. We’ll have a smaller version of the Blue King with flat curves in the next issue.

½½ Digital Racing Systems I have included the positions for digital lane-changing tracks on the two outer lanes of the Scalextric/SCX/Ninco version of this track and on the Carrera version to allow the cars to have the majority of the widest turns. The lane changers are positioned so you can dive into the inner lane at every corner---assuming, of course, that there is not a slower car ahead of you blocking the quickest line through that next corner. The digital racing experience is about as far as you can get from commercial racing---digital racing demands that you drive the car like you would a full-size race car to pick the places to pass and to select the quickest “racing line”. With analog racing you drive as fast as you can with only rare attention needed to any car in an adjacent lane.

I do not, however, recommend that you attempt to run digital cars on those two lanes and conventional cars on the other two lanes because there is just too great a chance that a deslotted car might be replaced in the wrong lane. Chose to run four conventional cars in the four lanes or opt for six (eight with Ninco N-Digital) digital cars in ONLY the outer two lanes. You could, of course, assemble this track with lane changers on all four lanes plus a few more to connect the outer two lanes with the inner two lanes but you could still only race six cars.

Both plans include suggested positions for the Scalextric Sport Digital, Ninco N-Digital or Carrera Digital 132 lane-changers. You may discover that you want to relocate the lane changers or use lane-changers to route the cars in a different direction after you have raced on the track for a few hours. You can install lanechangers at any of the places marked with an “X”. I would recommend that you install lane-changers on all seven of the areas marked X to provide the optimum number of chances for passing.

The track plans indicate two positions for the controller-connector track ("A" on the plans) so the drivers can be positioned at different areas of the track on the two inner lanes for conventional cars. If you are using the digital systems, only ONE connector track can be used on the two digital lanes. If you try to use two, you will likely burn-out some of the circuits in one or both of the connector tracks.

Model Car Racing 19

The outline of the 8-lane 22 x 49-foot American Model Car Raceways Blue King Track The Carrera version will fill 12 sheets of 4 x 8-foot plywood or particle board to create this 16 x 24-foot platform. You could cut access aisles into the platform but much of the track would still be too far away from the corner marshals unless they use the “grabbers” to extend their reach.

The Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX and Ninco version will fill eight sheets of 4 x 8 plywood or particle board to create this 12 x 24-foot platform. You could cut access aisles in the platform but much of track would still be too far away from the corner marshals unless they use the “grabbers” to extend their reach.

TRACK PLAN

4-Lane Blue King Raceway in 16 X 24-Feet

Carrera Conventional Track Required

TRACK PLAN

4-Lane Blue King Raceway in 12 X 24-Feet

Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX or Ninco Track Required Key

Qty

Description

Key

Qty

Description

H

0

1/2 Standard Curve

E

0

1/4-Straight

S

0

Standard Curve

D

6

1/2-Straight

O

48

Outer Curve

B

82

Full-Straight (all of the straights are “B” unless marked)

OO

48

Outer-Outer Curve

A

4

Connector Track

F

6

“Short” Straight

NOTE: All unmarked sections are full-length standard straights L

Track can be expanded in length by adding matched pairs of straight track sections here.

T Turns on the model versions of the track.

To build the plan with NINCO track you will need about 10-percent more space and you may need some additional short straights to get everything to line up properly.

X If you are assembling the track with Scalextric Sport Digital, 1 1/2 straights at these points can be replaced with the C7036 double-crossover straight lanechanger.

If you are using NINCO N-Digital, the 40207 double Lane-changers can be substituted for any standard straight.

20 Model Car Racing

Key

Qty

Description

Key

Qty

Description

M

23

20575 Banked Outer Curve R2

D

0

20611 1/3-Straight

N

34

20576 Banked OuterOuter Curve R3

B

74

20509 Full-Straight (all of the straights are “B” unless marked)

P

22

20579 Banked OuterOuter-Outer Curve R4

A

4

20583 Connector Track (analog)

E

14

20612 1/4-Straight

NOTE: All unmarked sections are full-length standard straights (20509) L

Track can be expanded (or shortened) in length by adding matched pairs of straight track sections here.

T Turns on the model versions of the track.

NOTE: If you are using the Carrera Digital 132 lane-changing system any adjoining pairs of standard-length straights ("B") may be placed with Carrera Digital 132 lanechanging tracks. The plans show the locations for the Carrera Digital number 30343 right-hand and 30345 left-hand lane-changers, you can substitute the Carrera Digital 132 number 30347 double-X lane-changer at any of these places and provide twice the passing opportunities.

Real Race Track Plans 2-Lane Blue King Raceway on a 5 X 9-Foot Ping-Pong Tabletop for Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX, Ninco or Carrera The plans for 4-lane recreation of Blue King commercial race track on pages 18-20 are the inspiration for these smaller plans. There’s an index, by size, of all the previously published track plans from Model Car Racing magazine on our website www.modelcarracingmag.com.

■■by Robert Schleicher The Blue King Raceway is the largest race track plan we have published. The general shape of the Blue King Raceway including the 250-degree turn T5 are all that we could squeeze onto a ping-pong tabletop. The plans for the larger fourlane track include banked turns but you can only use a banked turn where there are at least three straight sections entering and leaving the bank to give the track enough room to twist back to the level of the tabletop and there’s no room on a ping-pong tabletop for the banked turns. This track is similar to a number of “road racing” plans in having a nice series of ess curves like those through turns T1, T2 and T3 followed by that 270-degree loop leading through a second ess bend into the broadest possible curve that will fit on the tabletop.

TRACK PLAN

2-Lane Blue King Raceway on a 5 X 9-Foot Ping-Pong Tabletop

½½ Digital Racing Systems There is no room on this compact plan for any of digital lane changers. You could expand it by two straights at the points marked “L” to include two double lane changers for any of the brands of track.

Scalextric Classic, Sport, SCX or Ninco Track Required

TRACK PLAN

Key

Qty

Description

Key

Qty

Description

Carrera Track Required

H

5

1/2 Standard Curve

E

0

1/4-Straight

Key

Qty

Description

Key

Qty

Description

2-Lane Blue King Raceway on a 5 X 9-Foot Ping-Pong Tabletop

S

24

Standard Curve

D

3

1/2-Straight

H

1

20577 1/2 Inner Curve R1

E

2

20612 1/4-Straight

O

0

Outer Curve

B

2

Full-Straight

S

11

20571 Inner Curve R1

D

0

20611 1/3-Straight

OO

9

Outer-Outer Curve

A

2

Connector Track

O

14

20572 Middle Curve R2

B

2

20509 Full-Straight

F

2

“Short” Straight

OO

3

20573 Outer Curve R3

A

2

OOO

0

20578 Outer-Outer Curve R4

20583 Connector Track (analog)

L

Track can be expanded in length by adding matched pairs of straight track sections here.

T Turns on the model versions of the track

The overpass around turn T5 must be must be supported on 1/8-inch plywood if you are using Scalextric/Classic/SCX/Ninco track as shown on pages 24-25. If you are using Carrera track you can simply use the Carrera conventional number C85201 vertical post supports because the track joints and the track itself is stiff enough to not need a plywood backing. The Carrera number 20587 overpass (they call it a “crossing”) is too steep up and downhill for this tight track.

To build the plan with NINCO track you will need about 10-percent more space and you may need some additional short straights to get everything to line up properly.

L

Track can be expanded in length by adding matched pairs of straight track sections here.

T Turns on the model versions of the track

Model Car Racing 21

Race Tracks For Your Home: HO Blue King Raceway for a 6 ½ X 11-Foot Tabletop Many HO scale racing fans remember the commercial raceways of the seventies with massive tracks like the American Model Car Raceways Blue King. What if you could recreate that massive raceway with HO scale track (like we did with 1/32 scale track on pages 18-20 of this issue)? You can and this is the HO version. We used the largest curves available in HO for all of the turns without any restrictions on the size of the table. The resulting plan requires a minimum 6 ½ x 11-foot space.

■■by Robert Schleicher If you have more room it can be assembled longer than 11-feet by inserting sets of four straights at the points marked “L” on plan. All of the straights are 15-inch unless marked.

The AFX terminal/connector section can be substituted for any of the 15-inch straights on the track. You can install one on one side of the track and the second on the opposite side of the track so the drivers can also serve as corner marshals.

TRACK PLAN

HO Blue King Raceway to fit a 6 ½ x 11-foot area

AFX Track Sections Required

22 Model Car Racing

Qty

Description

Qty

Description

0

3-inch Straight

0

9-inch 90-degree Curve

8

6-inch Straight

0

12-inch 45-degree Curve

0

9-inch Straight

24

15-inch 45-degree Curve

28

15-inch Straight

24

18-inch 45-degree Curve

0

9-inch 45-degree Curve

Vintage Racing 1970 American Model Car Raceways 22 X 49-Foot 8-Lane Blue King Commercial Racetrack We do not usually include information on commercial slot car racing in Model Car Racing magazine because it is really a different hobby. The cars and tracks we feature are all designed to be raced in someone’s home (even if it’s Bobby Rahal’s home to his massive Slot Mods track).

However, many of you remember the commercial racetracks and about 100 are still in operation.

The classic commercial racetrack was the “Blue King”. It was one of largest commercial racetracks, with eight lanes filling a “tabletop” that was 22 x 49-feet. The outline of the track is on page 20 with an article on to how assemble the largest home raceway we have featured to replicate the Blue King race track with Scalextric, SCX, Ninco or Carrera plastic track.

■■by Robert Schleicher If you have not seen one of the commercial raceway shops, you may be surprised at how large they are—raceway centers (nobody called them hobby shops) were much larger than most hobby shops. Some of the centers were located in buildings that previously housed grocery stores. The largest number were franchise businesses called American Model Car Raceways and most of those were located along major highways in the days before the “big box” Wal-Mart’s and K-Marts. Most of these “racing centers” had three or four tracks about the size of the Blue King (or larger). There were a few four-lane tracks a fraction of the size of the Blue King and it’s fellows but speed was the goal and the smaller tracks had little appeal. Yes, a percentage of the racers did build cars that were scale size but body modifications and odd tire sizes compromised the realism- Those cars are still being built and raced in today’s ”Retro” race series at today's commercial raceway centers.

The raceway centers of seventies carried 1/32 scale cars and sets but sales were just a fraction of those for the larger 1/24 scale cars designed to be raced on the massive 8-lane wood tracks. The tracks were far too large for the 1/32 scale cars and the cars were too slow and too fragile to offer much entertainment on the huge tracks so 1/24 scale became the standard. At first, the customers raced 1/24 scale cars with hard plastic bodies like those produced as both kits and ready-torun by Revell, Monogram, Cox, K&B and Strombecker. In the late sixties hundreds of other firms appeared with ready-to-race cars that were faster and more rugged with painted clear plastic bodies and metal chassis. Revell, Monogram and Cox also offered similar cars based on full-size race cars. When the racers discovered that a wedge-shaped car would corner faster than the realistic cars, the hobby changed completely and the majority of the racers competed with “cars” that were simple wedges with clear plastic vertical walls around the sides

and rear to help generate more aerodynamic downforce for ever-faster cornering speeds and lower lap times.

The raceway centers sold ready-to-race cars as well as brass chassis, brass and steel wire, strip and brackets to solder-together a chassis, with motors, wheels and tires and painted as well as unpainted clear plastic bodies so you could build your own cars. A major portion of their income, however, came from renting time on the tracks so the centers became known as “commercial” raceways (as opposed to the “free” track time raceways in enthusiasts homes). Virtually all the organized slot car racing centered on the commercial raceways (there was a special rate for club hours). There were (and still are) national and even international championships, again all sited at one of the commercial raceway centers.

Hundreds of thousands of racing enthusiasts frequented the 3,000 American Model Car Raceways commercial race tracks in the early seventies. Thazer Raceway in South Bend, Indiana has survived. There were dozens of replicas of this American Model Car Raceways King and Blue King tracks but this one is typical—Thazer Raceway photo

Model Car Racing 23

Start Here: Overpass Support for Scalextric, SCX & Ninco Track Scalextric, SCX and Ninco track is too flexible to be supported with only a few vertical posts on long overpass areas. The skid aprons on Scalextric track are just a slide fit and they will fall off. To keep the track and skid aprons in place cut a piece of 1/8-inch thick plywood to fit beneath the track. â– â– by Robert Schleicher

The track was attached to the plywood with dabs of hot glue at the outer edges every 6-inches. You can pry the track up and slice-off the dabs of hot glue if you want to disassemble the racetrack.

24 Model Car Racing

The track that is to be elevated must be supported for at least 6-inches onto the flat of the tabletop to avoid a sharp uphill bend at the bottom of the hill. The track must also be supported on the plywood for the full distance of the elevated portion of the track. I used 3 x 6-foot pieces of 1/8-inch plywood that is sold for underlayment beneath tiles and linoleum. Lay all of the track, including every one of the skid aprons. Gently lift the edge of the track just an inch or so you do not bend the track joints, and wiggle the plywood beneath the track. Mark the edges of the borders with a felt-tip pen to indicate where to cut the plywood, then gently slide the plywood back out and cut it with a saber saw and fine-tooth blade. There are horrible splinters, so handle the stuff with gloves and sand the finished edges. The track can just rest on the plywood but it’s better to apply a spot of hot glue to the outer edges of the skid aprons about every 6 inches or so. If you are not using skid aprons, apply the dabs of hot glue directly to the edge of track.

If you are using skid aprons, attach the skid aprons before you apply any dabs of hot glue so the hot glue dabs will not prevent the skid aprons from fitting tightly. To keep the track from shifting on the plywood apply dabs of hot glue to the outer edges of the skid aprons. With the plywood support the skid aprons will stay in place and they will secure the track itself.

The four-lane Spa track that is in the May/June 2006 number 27 issue had some long portions of the track that were elevated above the tabletop. The 1/8-inch plywood was used to support the entire length of what was to be the elevated section of the track.

Model Car Racing 25

Vintage Racing Studio 65 1959 Austin Healey Sprite Revell produced 1/32 scale static models of the 1959 Austin Healey “Bugeye” Sprite in the sixties. The models are out of production and selling at collector prices.

Studio 65, however, has “repopped” the car as a cast-resin model that is only available assembled, painted and ready-to-race for $119.00 from (http://www. studio-65.com/). The models have 1/32 scale cast-resin hand-painted bodies with a hand detailed full driver figure. The chassis is soldered together from brass tube and strip with a front FF-size motor, high-density resin wheels with set screws, 40 shore urethane trued tires and a TSRF guide. They are available in blue or yellow.

Studio 65 offers the ‘Bugeye” Sprite ready-to-race in blue or yellow.

The Sprite is right-on 1/32 scale compared to this Airfix MGB (left) and Lindberg/ Monogram MGA (right).

The rugged brass chassis is assembled in a special jig to insure that is aligned and level.

26 Model Car Racing

Your Track Jim Norton’s 8 X 16-Foot 4-Lane Scalextric Boomerang Bend Race Track on the Floor You do not need a table to race 1/32 scale (or HO) slot cars. For most of us it is difficult to find space for a permanent or portable table and, even then, it is seldom as large as we would like. If you really want those long straights, the logical place to assemble a track is on the floor or the largest room in your house or, maybe better, on the floor of your garage (after scrubbing it clean of course).

■■Photos and plans by Jim Norton This is just one of the Scalextric tracks that the Alabama Racing Group has constructed for their annual southwest championship races. The club races all year long in member’s homes but, on each Memorial Day for the last dozen years, a championship race has been held in the recreation room of Jim Norton’s home.

The Scalextric Boomerang Bend track has four major corners and each of them is a different radius.

The main is straight is 12-feet long and the “short” straight is 11-feet long to give the cars enough distance to wind-out to top speed.

Model Car Racing 27

Four coffee-table-height padded benches provide comfortable driving positions. The corner marshals, however, must scramble on hands and knees to replace spun-off cars.

The club races 1/32 scale cars with and without downforce magnets so all of the corners on the Scalextric track have outside borders to give the magnet-free cars some extra track width to power slide around the outer lane of the curves.

Your Track Jim Norton’s 7 X 13-Foot AFX HO Battle Creek Race Track on the Floor This Battle Creek Track is one of the HO scale AFX raceways that the Alabama Racing Group has assembled for their biannual series of championship races. The club alternates each year between 1/32 scale tracks (like that on pages 27-28) and HO tracks for their Memorial Day championship series. They have recreated some of more famous tracks like this “Battle Creek” and the “Big King” , “Clubman” and “Daytona” AFX raceways from the sixties and seventies HO races when drivers were paid by the factories to win. Additional races are staged through the rest of the year, sometimes using the same track pieces for some of the meets and racing on the members’ permanent tracks for other weekend races.

■■Photos and plans by Jim Norton

The Battle Creek 475 four-lane track has at least 180-degrees of all of four AFX curve track sizes, from 6-inch to 18-inch.

28 Model Car Racing

The controller connector tracks are separated about four feet to give the four drivers a bit more “elbow room”.

There’s a four-lane chicane that uses two pair of 3-inch straights with a custom-cut filler piece in between.

Model Car Racing 29

30 Model Car Racing

The Tomas Enge, Stefan Mucke and Jan Charouz number 007 Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 leads the number 3 Audi R15 TDI and Jos Verstappen, Darren Turner and Anthony Davidson’s number 008 Lola-Aston Martin B09/60 at LeMans in 2009. — LAT photo.

Model Car Racing 31

Le Mans Slot.it 2009 Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 (B09/60) The Gulf-sponsored Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 is one of the most impressive cars in the LeMans Series.

The Slot.it model is a replica of the number 009 car that Peter Kox, Harold Primat and Stuart Hall crashed in the 18th hour at LeMans in 2009.

■■BY Bill Wright The Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 cars are redesigned Lolas with a new nose that mimics the classic Aston Martin road cars’ grills. The engine is an Aston Martin Racing V12 with 5,835 cc displacement, producing 600 horsepower. Three cars were entered at LeMans in 2009, all with bright blue and orange Gulf paint schemes. The 007 car finished eighth in LMP1 and the 008 car ninth but the 009 car, driven by Peter Kox, Harold Primat and Stuart Hall, crashed in the 18th hour.

Like the prototypes, the Slot.it model is based on their Lola-Judd B09/60 that was in the September/October 2012 number 65 issue. The Slot.it Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 LeMans is a superb model. The proportions look proper and the car is exact 1/32 scale. Slot.it is has been able to use correct-size tires on this model where most other makers fit ridiculously small tires in the hope of attaining better handling. Slot.it achieves the same result of lowering the car by lowering only the motor in a motor pod that allows the motor to sit below the centerline of the axle. The car has a full interior.

The Slot.it Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 has the new Slot.it pickup design with tab-ended braids captured in the rear of the pickup. The braid has a staked-on brass end with a hole to accept the lead wire’s ferrule. An extra set of braid is included. The front of the chassis has a bridge to support the top of the pickup for a more rigid pivot point. The bridge is designed to guide and funnel the ends of the wires so they follow the pickup. The model has plastic front wheels but aluminum set screw-mount rear wheels and gear. The motor pod includes attaching screws for outriggers so you can “tune” the chassis as described in the “Six-Screw” Hop-Up article in the number 69 issue (also at www.modelcarracingmag.com under “Sample Issues”). If you want to run the car without downforce magnets, you can replace the rear tires with something that has a bit more traction like the number 1409 Super Tires silicones or Yellow Dogs urethanes.

32 Model Car Racing

½½ How Fast?

The new Slot/it Lola-Aston Martin, with its Flat 6-R anglewinder motor, should perform at least as well as the same setup in the Slot.it HRS/2 anglewinder chassis. We Race Track Tested that chassis without the downforce magnet under the Sloter 1966 Lola T70 body in the March/April 2009 number 44 issue. The lap times and other test results for all of the track tests in the first 84 issues are available on www.modelcarracingmag.com under "Model Resources", then click on the link "Race Car Test Results".

Model Car Racing Track Test: "Out-of-the-Box" Lap Times 36-foot Scalextric Indy F1 Course:

36-foot Carrera Indy F1 Course:

Slot/it Lola-Aston Martin, with Flat 6-R Anglewinder Motor

6.17 sec.

5.04 sec.

The model has the usual Slot.it high performance chassis with a separate motor pod. It has an anglewinder Flat-6-size motor like the other cars in their modern LeMans series

Slot.it 2009 Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model The dimensions of the should be in 1/32 scale: Slot.it model:

Length:

4,639 mm

5.71 in. (145.0 mm)

5.94 in. (150.8 mm)

Width:

1,998 mm

2.46 in. (62.4 mm)

2.52 in. (64.0 mm)

Height:

NA

NA

1.39 in. (35.2 mm)

Wheelbase*

2,898 mm

3.57 in. (90.6 mm)

3.62 in. (92.14 mm)

Track, Front:

Track, Rear: NA

2.12 in. (53.7 mm)

Track, Rear:

NA

NA

2.12 in. (53.7 mm)

Tires, Front:

NA

NA

9.1 x 19.4 mm

Tires, Rear:

NA

NA

10.1 x 20.5.6 mm

Weight:

2,099 lbs.

NA

72 grams (2 1/2 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

28 grams (1 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

54 grams (1 1/2 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

108 grams (3 3/4 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

48 grams (1 5/8 oz.)

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

0.5 mm (.020 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

0.4 mm (.015 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

109.6 mm (4.32 in.)

Gear Ratio:

2.55:1 (11/28)

SOURCE: 2009 LE MANS 24 HOURS, by Christian Moity and Jean-Marc Teissedre, GSN Publishing ISBN 9-782930-354521

½½ LeMans 2009 In 1/32 Scale (Front to rear, l. to r. ---the brand in the photo is listed first)

• Corvette C6.R (SCX, Scalextric, Ninco and Carrera) • Peugeot 908 HDI FAP, the overall winner in 2009 (SCX and Scalextric) • Lamborghini Murcielago (Auto Art, Scalextric and Ninco) • Lola-Aston Martin DBR1-2 (Slot.it and Scalextric) • Aston Martin DBR9 (Scalextric and SCX) • Pescarolo 01 Judd (Avant Slot and Scalextric) • Ferrari F430 (Scalextric, Ninco and Carrera) • Porsche RS Spyder (Scalextric, Avant Slot and Carrera)

LMP1 Class:

Not Shown:

GT Class: • Porsche 911 (997) RSR (Flyslot, Scalextric, Ninco, SCX and Carrera)

• Audi R15 TDI (LeMans Miniatures) LMP1 • Spyker C8 (ScaleAuto) GT

The pickup is the newer Slot.it version with a “bridge” over the top to provide a more stable mounting.

Model Car Racing 33

NASCAR (Grand National): Ray Snyder’s American Iron 1949 Ford Tudor Ray Snyder is fan of early fifties Grand National stock cars. He has recreated the late forties Hudson Hornet, Mercury and this 1950 Ford Tudor as cast-resin bodies mounted on several different chassis.

■■BY Bill Wright The Grand National Series (that was to become NASCAR) in the forties and fifties truly was a race series for cars you could buy in a showroom. The cars were stripped of all the unnecessary seats, upholstery, mufflers and interior décor, but the days of rollcage-reinforcement and acid-dipped bodies were decades in the future. Yes, truck springs as well as truck tires and wheels were fitted to stiffen the suspension and withstand the pounding form the ruts and bumps of dirt and poorly-paved oval tracks.

The 1950 Ford Tudor was one of the cars that successfully contested the Grand National Series races in the late forties and early fifties. American Iron has a cast-resin body for the car as well as for the Hudson Hornet and 1951 Mercury two-door from the same era. There are no ready-to-race cars but you can buy the body and fit it to the chassis of your choice.

Ray Snyder’s American Iron brand body is an accurate 1/32 scale resin reproduction of Ford’s post-war all new body style. The mold for the cast resin body is a much-modified die-cast car that is accurate 1/32 scale. Lindberg (now from Auto World) has produced a 1949 Ford and a 1953 Chevrolet but they are about 1/35 scale. This cast resin body kit includes vacuum--formed windows and resin

34 Model Car Racing

"sedan" interior tray with Cox style helmeted driver head. The windows must be cut-out with a jeweler’s saw or Dremel motor tool.

There is no provision for mounting a chassis. You could adapt the chassis from most of the Carrera 1957 Chevrolet BelAir models that have exposed “steel” wheels like the current 27489 analog or 30723 Digital models. The chassis from any of the Carrera NASCAR 1969-1972 Dodge Chargers can also be modified to fit the 1950 Ford Tudor body. You could remove the body–mounting posts from the Carrera body but it would be easier to attach the body with Slot.it SICH57B body-mounts to the sides of the chassis and to the inside of the door sills of the body.

Ray painted and decaled his 1950 Ford Tudor model to recreate the car that Jimmy Florian drove to win the Main Event at the Dayton Speedway, in Dayton, Ohio in 1951. Decals are included with the body kit to match the full-size car.

There’s more information on these Grand National stockers on www.legendsofnascar.com/Jimmy_Florian.htm. Pattos has decals for the trim and windows on the Hudson Hornet (Hudson Hornet - 1952 - Detail Sheet).

American Iron 1950 Ford Tudor Grand National

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model The dimensions of the should be in 1/32 scale: American Iron model:

Length:

196.8 in.

6.15 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Width:

72.8 in.

2.27 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Height:

63.1 in.

1.97 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Wheelbase*

114.0 in.

3.56 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Track, Front:

56.0 in.

1.75 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Track, Rear:

56.0 in.

1.75 in.

5.02 in. (127.4 mm)

Tires, Front:

7.10-15

NA

5.4 x 24.6 mm

Tires, Rear:

7.10-15

NA

5.4 x 24.6 mm

Weight:

NA

NA

48 grams (1 5/8 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

48 grams (1 5/8 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

48 grams (1 5/8 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

NA

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

NA

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

1.0 mm (.040 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

1.0 mm (.040 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

84.2 mm (3.31 in.)

Gear Ratio:

3.00:1 (9/27)

Ray installed pieces of ¼-inch square Evergreen styrene tube to the inside sills of the body attached with beads of JB Weld metal-filled epoxy. He cut an ancient Scalextric NASCAR chassis in half and simply attached the halves to the ¼-inch square tubes with #2 self-threading screws.

Source: http://www.thehenryford.org The American Iron 1/32 scale 1949 Ford Tudor cast-resin body kit can be adapted to a variety of 1/32 scale chassis to recreate the early years of Grand National racing.

The number 6 car is Ray Snyder’s 1/32 scale replica of Marshall Teague’s famous 1952 Fabulous Hudson Hornet using an American Iron body as shown in the September/ October 2012 number 65 issue with Mikes Decals 1/25 scale (www.mikesdecals.com/) markings.

Model Car Racing 35

HO Racing Muscle Cars Auto World 1958 Plymouth Hemi Fury Auto World has added this replica of the Hemi Fury to their series of classic HO cars. The proportions are right-on. The clear windows are tinted to hide the chassis and suggest that there is a full interior. The model has operating headlights with a light bar to distribute the lights from a single bulb to the two headlights. The painting and lettering is particularly well done.

You can read the “Plymouth� on both the hood and trunk lid.

The body is mounted chassis with two screws. The pin guide can be replaced or turned upside down if you just want to display the model.

The 1958 Plymouth Hemi Fury is fitted with the Auto World Thunderjet chassis with a pancake-style motor.

36 Model Car Racing

HO Racing Drag Racing Auto World 2015 Ford Mustang GT Auto World is the first to produce a replica of the 2015 Mustang as a tabletop race car in any scale. The body captures the shape and proportions of the new generation Mustang nicely, better than some of the die-cast models. The windshield frames, lights and medallions are clean and crisp. The model rides on American mag-style wheels with extra wide tires that are used on most HO replicas.

The Auto World 2015 Mustang GT is fitted with their quick Xtraction chassis.

Model Car Racing 37

Race Car Shop Le Mans: Build the MRRC “Clubman”Kit 1964 Ferrari GTO LM The MRRC “Clubman” kits utilize bodies made from the sixties-era original Monogram molds with a chassis similar to the aluminum Revell chassis of that era. The kits include three (3) motors as well three gear options and a choice of two downforce magnets. The kit is complete and easy to build.

■■by Bill Deuroen There was a time…when most model car racers built their cars from kits or by soldering-together strips, rods and sheets of brass. The most popular slot cars of the late sixties were, in fact, kits from Revell, Monogram, Cox or Strombecker.

The chassis were usually metal (Monogram and Strombecker used brass stampings, Revell used aluminum stampings and Cox had die-cast magnesium components). There were dozens of screws and nuts and washers, each deigned for a specific place and purpose. You might have to solder the pickup wires to the braid and to the motor tabs but the assembly was all done with screwdrivers and pliers (or, with most kits, the small wrenches to fit the nuts in the kits). The MRRC kit is a throw back to those days and, honestly, it is a pleasure to build and there is a sense of accomplishment that you just do not get by undoing that single thumbscrew to prepare most 1/32 scale cars for a race track.

MRRC is not imported into America but you can order direct from the www. mrrc.com website. Each of the kits sells for 36.80 Euros but shipping (to Colorado) is another 30.25 Euros so the total is about 67.05 Euros (it will vary depending on where they are to be shipped and when). That’s about $74.99 at the

38 Model Car Racing

time this was prepared. You must check the MRRC website to determine exact price and shipping and work out your own Euro-to-dollar exchange amount.

The price is reasonable when you consider that each kit includes three motors.

All of these MRRC “Clubman” cars have identical chassis, motors, gears, wheels and tires so all five should run about the same. We could not resist Race Track Testing the car with each of the three motors. We could have gone further and tested each motor with three gears but that’s where you get to play for yourself…

We opted for 9-tooth pinion to provide a 3.00:1 gear ratio that is the most common ratio in most brands of 1/32 scale cars with inline SP-size motors.

The kit includes two magnets, one with a dull finish that is about a match for the strength of the magnets in most Slot.it and Scalextric cars and a much, much stronger shiny magnet. That shiny magnet is the most powerful magnet we have seen—probably too much for the motors. Yes, the strong magnet will keep the car in the slot at full throttle around most corners but it is so strong that it prevents the car from achieving anything close to maximum acceleration down the

straight. We gave it up and track tested the car with the amply-strong dull-finish magnet.

If you want to race car the without the downforce magnet you will want to replace the rear tires with silicones or urethanes like the 1102RC Super Tires silicones or Yellow Dog urethanes. We will pull the magnet, install silicone tires and report the results in the next issue.

The best part about these kits (of yesterday or today) is that you do not have to be an artist or an expert of any kind. If you have the patience to read the instructions and to do a test-fit see where everything fits, you will find that, indeed, everything does fit.

The MRRC kit includes a range of tiny screws and washers. There is no information about which screw goes where but each one has a specific place so take some time determine which screw goes where.

There are no extra screws so get it right the first time. The screws with no heads are Allen screws for the wheels and the crown gear, the single shiny self-tapping screw is to hold the motor, the black round-headed screws hold the sides of the chassis and motor mounts, the two shiny round head crews are for pickup stops and longer flat head screws are to retain the rear weight or magnet (which have countersunk holes accept those screws). The large brass nut is to retain the pickup post. There are also dozens of washers. The two thick ones are spacers for the pickup stop screws. The thin ones are to be placed between the backs of the wheels and the sides of the bearings in the frame. The larger plastic washers are to be placed on top and bottom of the frame at the pickup post before the pickup and the brass nut are installed. The thicker washers are to space the wheels out from the sides of the chassis for a wider track width (or, with this Ferrari, one is needed to raise the front of the body).

½½ Model Car Building as Art The kits of the sixties were complete with decals but the bodies were unpainted and it was up to the builder to make them look realistic---they were, to be sure, hand-finished models. Today the windshield frames, door handles, numbers, sponsor logos and other markings are literally printed-onto the model at the factory. So, flash back to the day when you did it yourself. Or, do what about 90-percent of model car racers did in the late sixties and just run unpainted bodies with perhaps, a stick-on number or two---for most racers that is the kind of car they so fondly remember---finely-details models were decades in the future.

Most of today’s model car manufacturers offer unassembled models (kits, you might say) with unpainted white bodies. Decals are available for nearly all of them from firms like Pattos (www.pattosplace. com). These MRRC Clubman cars, however, are currently only offered as kits. The kits include nice

decals but they are “generic”, if you want to match a specific full-size car you can usually get the decals from Pattos.

There is another, all-be-it-expensive, option.

Monogram themselves offered these cars as readyto-run models about ten-years ago with plastic chassis and FF-size motors. Some dealers (www. electricdreams.com for one) may have them. The bodies are the same but the Monogram cars were painted and printed to today’s standards in China.

The Ferrari GTO LM, Ferrari 275P and Porsche 904 are $49.95; the King Cobra is $64.95. No Corvettes were made. The MRRC “Clubman” chassis will provide far more performance than these Monogram models with the FF-size motors.

The front (left and rear motor brackets fit all three motors. The angled tab on rear motor mount (with square hole) should b e installed upward so bottom clears the downforce magnet. (

½½ Vintage 1/32 Scale Retro Racing In effect these MRRC “Clubman” models are sixties era kits produced to today’s standards. The production tooling for the Monogram slot car bodies of the late sixties was some of the most accurate and clean ever produced. MRRC (http://www.mrrc.com/), in Germany, is using the original Monogram dies to mold bodies for this 1964 Ferrari GTO LM as well as the Ferrari 275P, King Cobra, Porsche 904 and a new 1963 Corvette split-window coupe.

The chassis is stamped aluminum that is very similar to the Revell chassis of the late sixties. The “standard” MRRC 18,000 rpm motor should perform about as well as the Mabuchi “S can” motors of that sixties era. The axles and wheels are not the 1/8-inch 5-40-threaded components of the original cars but today’s standard 3/32-inch with set-screwmount wheels and crown gear. The wheels also have the modern-era center rib so you can fit tires from Super Tires, Maxx-Trac, Indy Grips, Ortmann and others. The previous MRRC owners in England originally made these kits about 15 years ago and those kits had 1/8-inch axles with set-screw mount center rib wheels.

Tech Tip #1 �����

½½ Learn To Love Your Kit Sort out all of the parts in the kit and identify each one and where it will fit. Work over a tray so when you drop one of those screws or washers, it will not be lost.

The ends of wires that connect motor pickup must be stripped. If you change motors or pickups on these or any of your cars a quality pair of wire strippers is a worthwhile investment.

Solder the wires to the tabs on the motor. To make soldering process as quick as possible (to avoid melting plastic end bell on the motor, quickly “tin” the motor tabs with solder, holding solder gun tip to tabs for as little time as possible, then tin bare pick wires before soldering wires to tabs.

Assemble the rear axle, wheels, bearings and crown gear and temporarily install the motor to determine where the pinion gear needs to be located to engage with the teeth on the crown gear.

Model Car Racing 39

The two shiny round-head screws are the pickup stops that prevent the pickup from pivoting more than about 45-degrees right or left. The 1/16-inch thick washers are installed beneath the head of each of the screws.

Use a gear puller/press like this Slot.it SISP21 Extractor Press to press the pinion gear onto the motor shaft.

Tech Tip #2 ��������������

Put one or two of the larger plastic washers on the top and bottom of the chassis to provide smoother contact for the pivoting pickup blade. Use needle nose pliers to install the large brass nut, threading it onto the pickup post.

½½ A Third Hand Hold your Phillips screwdriver on a downforce magnet to magnetize the tip of the screwdriver. If you work carefully, the magnetized tip will hold the Philips-head screws long enough for you to locate them in the proper holes.

Solder the two brass strips to the ends of the motor wires.

Use the one shiny self-tapping screw to attach the front motor bracket to the motor.

Install the two motor brackets and motor, then install the rear axle, bearings and gear and adjust the gear mesh so the crown gear can move about .005-inches (about the thickness of three sheets of paper) back and forth. The rear track can about 1/16-inch wider on each side and you can add that amount by inserting several of the metal washers supplied with kit between the backs of the wheels and the bearings..

40 Model Car Racing

The brass tabs that are staked to the ends of the braid must bent back over themselves as shown on the bottom piece of braid.

The 1/8-inch long black plastic washer must be insured between the front body-mounting post and the chassis to raise the front of the body to the proper height.

Adjust the wheelbase on the chassis to 3-inches so the front and rear tires are centered in the wheel wells.

Monogram did a very nice job of simulating wire wheels with these plastic inserts. On race cars with wide rims, the spokes were usually laced into the deep well of the rim so the wheels look like the Monogram models'.

We Race Track Teed the MRRC Clubman car with each of the three motors (14,000, 18,000 and 24,000 rpm) but opted use just the 9-tooth pinion gear (8 and 10-tooth gears are included with the kit).

The downforce magnet can be installed with small flathead screws. We opted for the lower-strength magnet--this shiny one has far too much downforce for most tracks.

Split brass "mollies� are inserted into the body– mounting posts (just as they were on the Monogram cars of the sixties) to provide a metal thread for the body-mounting screws.

You can use Pattos number Ferrari 250 GTOs decals to recreate the cars that raced at Sebring and at Daytona (the Daytona car had a white stripe across the cowl).

Or you can just borrow one of the pre-painted bodies from one of the later Monogram cars.

Lubricate the axle and motor bearings with a drop of plastic-compatible oil like LaBelle number 107 oil and apply a pinpoint bead of plastic-compatible grease like LaBelle number 106 to each of the teeth on the crown gear.

Model Car Racing 41

Track Test: Le Mans: MRRC “Clubman” Kit 1964 Ferrari GTO LM The MRRC “Clubman” kits are some modern-day examples of what 1/32 scale slot cars were like in the late sixties and early seventies. As well detailed as today’s models and just as quick (or even quicker). But these are cars you have to assemble yourself. MRRC also offers a Porsche 904, a Ferrari 275P, a King Cobra and a 1963 Corvette split-window Stingray coupe in the “Clubman” kit series. Here’s how the car runs with the 14,000-rpm, the 18,000-rpm and 24,000 rpm motor as-built.

We gave it up and track tested the car with the amply-strong dull-finish magnet.

The car performs as MRRC intended. With the 14,000 rpm motor is turns lap times about equal to an out-of-the-box Scalextric, Flyslot or SRC GT-class car.

The faster motors put it in an entirely different class. With the 18,000 rpm motor it will run with the best Slot.it, NSR, ScaleAuto and Sideways cars. With the 24,000 rpm motor it is the second-fastest fastest car we have tested on either the Scalextric or Carrera Indy F1 tracks---the quickest was a Scalextric ‘69 Camaro (with three magnets, a 36,000 rpm Mainline motor and Super Tires) in the January/February 2010 number 49 issue that did a 2.63 second lap on the Carrera track but it had too much magnet to even run on the Scalextric track.

The rigid MRRC chassis makes it possible to control the car (but just barely) with the faster motors. Honestly, it’s a lot, lot more fun drive with the stock motor.

■■by Track Tests by Marc Purdham All of these MRRC “Clubman” cars have identical chassis, motors, gears, wheels and tires so all five should run about the same. We could not resist Race Track Testing the car with each of the three motors. We could have gone further and tested each motor with three gears but that’s where you get to play for yourself…

We opted for 9-tooth pinion to provide a 3.00:1 gear ratio that is the most common ratio in most brands of 1/32 scale cars with inline SP-size motors.

The kit includes two magnets, one with a dull finish that is about a match for the strength of the magnets in most Slot.it and Scalextric cars and a much, much stronger shiny magnet. That shiny magnet is the most powerful magnet we have seen—probably too much for the motors. Yes, strong magnet will keep the car in the slot at full throttle around most corners but it is so strong that it prevents the car from achieving anything close to maximum acceleration down the straight.

42 Model Car Racing

If you running the car without downforce magnet, MRRC also sells some lightweight brass weights and a pan for additional weight. We will Race Track Test the car with all three motor options, remove the downforce magnet, replace the rear tires with wide 1102RC Super Tires and report the results in the next issue.

½½ The 1964 Ferrari GTO LM The notchback 1964 Ferrari GTO LM was the ultimate development of the sleek fastback 1962 GTO. The new body was lower and wider and had a squaredoff roof similar to Ferrari’s then-current rear-engined 275LM. Only seven GTO LMs were raced. The first cars competed at Daytona in 1964 and beat the Cobra Daytona coupes, with Phil Hill and Pedro Rodriguez driving (number 30--- the prototype for the MRRC/Monogram model). The same car, right down to the sponsor logos, finished seventh overall and first in the 3-liter GT class at Sebring with David Piper, Pedro Rodriguez and Mike Gammino driving. All seven of the GTO LM cars raced with red paint, although there were some variations like the white roof on the number 31 Sebring car, a blue nose and hood stripe on the

car Mike Salmon raced in 1964, various colors of stripes across the front of the hood to identify individual cars from a team, and the blue numbers on the 1964 Targa Florio cars.

MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model The dimensions of the should be in 1/32 scale: MRRC model:

Length:

4,300 mm

5.29 in. (134.4 mm)

5.16 in. (131.0 mm)

Width:

1,760 mm

2.17 in. (55.0 mm)

2.17 in. (55.0 mm)

Height:

NA

NA

1.42 in. (36.1 mm)

Wheelbase*

2,400 mm

2.96 in. (75.0 mm)

2.96 in. (75.0 mm)

Track, Front:

1,445 mm

1.78 in. (45.2 mm)

1.82 in. (46.1 mm)

Track, Rear:

1,414 mm

1.74 in. (44.2 mm)

1.77 in. (44.8 mm)

Tires, Front:

6.50/6.7015*

5.3 x 25.5 mm

5.4 x 19.3 mm

Tires, Rear:

8.00/8.2015*

6.5 x 22.2 mm

7.1 x 20.6 mm

Weight:

2,099 lbs.

NA

63 grams (2 3/8 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

28 grams (1 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

35 grams (1 3/8 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

120 grams (4 1/4 oz.)**

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

155 grams (5 1/2 oz.)

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

1.0 mm (.040 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

0.9 mm (.035 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

79.5 mm (3.13 in.)

Gear Ratio:

3.00:1 (9/27)

The MRRC Clubman cars are sold only as kits with unpainted bodies. The kits are easy to build.

SOURCE: FERRARI 250GTO, by Keith Bluemel, published by Bay View Books, ISBN 1-901432-15-7. *NOTE: Tires per THE COBRA FERRARI WARS, Second Edition, by Michael Shone, ISBN 0-9625093-0-2 **NOTE: With strongest downforce magnet: Magnetic Downforce on Carrera: 165 grams (5 3/4 oz.)

The body is molded in red so you can do what 95-percent of the racers did in sixties and just apply the decals to the bare plastic. You can protect them with a brush-on coat of Future-brand floor finish.

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric: 312 grams (11 1/8 oz.)

Model Car Racing Track Test: "Out-of-the-Box" Lap Times MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM w/14,000, 18,000 and 24,000 rpm motor

36-foot Scalextric Indy F1 Course:

36-foot Carrera Indy F1 Course:

MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM w/14,000 rpm motor

3.52 sec.

3.76 sec.

MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM w/18,000 rpm motor

3.15 sec.

3.27 sec.

MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM w/24,000 rpm motor

2.98 sec.

3.06 sec.

SRC Porsche 907/8L

3.93 sec.

3.76 sec.

Fly 1966 Porsche 906 (Carrera 6)

3.65 sec.

3.48 sec.

Scalextric 1967 Ferrari 330P4

3.60 sec.

3.43 sec.

Scalextric 1969 Ford GT40

4.30 sec.

4.28 sec.

NOTES: The lap times and other test results for all of the track tests in the first 84 issues are available on www.modelcarracingmag.com under “Model Resources”, then click on the link “Race Car Test Results”. The SRC 1968 Porsche 907/8L was race Track Tested in the July/August 2013 number 79 issue, the Scalextric Ferrari P4 in the May/June 2006 number 27 issue and the Scalextric Ford GT40 in the January/ February 2003 number 7 issue.

The kit includes three motors (14,000, 18,000 and 24,000 rpm) and three pinion gears (8, 9 and 10-tooth) and instructions. We used the 9-tooth pinion but tested the car with each of the three motors.

Model Car Racing 43

Pit Board #86 ��������������������� 4WD LeMans & More From Slot.it

Yes, Slot.it has left some of the information on what specific belts and parts are needed for which specific car to the consumer (as did Lotus in the sixties). The belt length must match that of wheelbase so each different wheelbase chassis requires a different length belt. We got the Slot.it part numbers backwards on the pulleys. Apparently they found that it works best if the front tires are "slipping" a bit compared to the rear.

sible for the spectators---the slower cars are eliminated early. There’s an article a blank lap-recording chart in the May/June 2012 number 63 issue. In my opinion, it is not a wise race format for model cars for the reasons you stated. The quick racers just get quicker. It is, of course, exciting to see any race where the drivers are equally matched but the “qualifying’ to get more track time would never be my first choice.

The clubs that I race with do not have anything but “qualifying” races and the class winner is simply the driver with the most laps. Usually these races are for three to five minutes, which gives each driver a minimum six to ten minutes of track time.

Since the club also runs at least three classes that allows everyone there to have 18 to 30 minutes of race time. The clubs also have an hour of practice and test n’ tune time before every race and the drivers are limited to about five minutes of practice in each lane. The format also insures that everyone will spend an equal amount of time serving as a corner marshal. No, you do not get to see fastest cars racing side by side in a main event. There is a compromise that some clubs use and it works pretty well. Most clubs award drivers points for their finishing positions so, after the first race, the drivers are ranked. Whoever sets up the driver schedule can then “pair” the best drivers with the best drivers. I makes for most exciting racing and it is somewhat more comfortable for the slower drivers because they are racing with their peers so they are not getting lapped four or five times in the race.

Oil Slicks

Rattlin’ Bones

I race on about six different tracks in our club members’ homes. It is great fun to race on three of the tracks but two or three others have abrupt changes in direction that throw the cars out of the slot. Certainly, I know those places are there so I slow down for them as I might for an pool of spilled oil a full-size race track. That works for about five laps when I forget the “oil spill” is there and my car deslots once again. So I am wary for another half-dozen laps when I momentarily forget about the hazard and off it goes again. Is there a way correct these flaws in the track?

Most of the people in the club I race with leave the body-mounting screws loose.

Since all of the cars have hard plastic bodies, you can actually hear some of the cars rattle as they round the corners or accelerate or brake on the straights. It is a strange sound and certainly not one you would ever hear on a real race track. It seems counterproductive because that rattle surely must make the cars even more skitterish through the corners to produce slower lap times. But the articles in Model Car Racing often suggest that the body-mounting screws should be left loose. The loose body is supposed to allow the cars to corner faster but I am not convinced. Is there any "sound" reason behind this odd race-tune setup?

I love this magazine and I have been and will continue to be a subscriber to it. I must ask you to review and correct the info you posted on the 4WD Audi reviewed in issue number 83. The pulley sizes you mentioned, for example, like the 16 tooth on the fronts and the 17-tooth on the rears is wrong. You have it in reverse as the front’s uses the 17-tooth pulley and the 16 tooth goes on the rear (actually any combo can be used, but that’s for another time). Also stating the system can be used on ANY Slot.it chassis is not exactly correct (or at best misleading). Why? Because to use the 4WD on any chassis we must know the wheelbase of that chassis to match it with the correct belt and or pulley combination.

Regards, Dick Truglio

Any help would be appreciated, Jim Reynolds

Most people that assemble a larger plastic track simply lay the track out on the tabletop or floor and, perhaps, pre-assemble the major curves and straights. For most tracks, those curves and straights connect nicely but there is almost always at least one track joint (maybe six of them) where the track just does not align. If you have an assortment of curves and straights you can always find some combination that will provide a snug fit. The difficulty is that those “make-it-fit” pieces, particularly curves, are seldom the same size as the curve they are joining and that results in the jogs and zigzags that can deslot your car. The best solution is to replace the entire curve with a different size.

When that is not possible, the misalignment can usually be corrected by installing short track sections on the opposite side of the raceway to shift as much as half of the entire track just to correct that relatively minor misalignment. One guideline is to do whatever you have to do to avoid inserting a tighter curve into the beginning or end of a large curve---it is that kink that is most often the cause of those “oil spills” deslots.

Equal Time Racing I just rediscovered slot car racing about a year ago. There is a club in my area with tracks in six of the members’ homes and, lucky for me, all are within an hour’s drive. There are about 20 members and 10 to 15 show up at each month’s race so there are always plenty of corner marshals. Some of the club members have been racing slot cars for twenty years or more. They and some of the more dedicated “newcomers” always finish in the top four or five places. Nearly all of these racers are extremely helpful in offering advise on how to make my cars run as fast as theirs and I have applied that knowledge so my cars can turn lap times about equal to the best. Just having a quick car, however, has not been nearly enough---I am lucky if I finish second or third from last---by sheer bad luck for others I did get a third place at one race meet. I do not get much time on the track though because the club runs a race format with “heat” races to determine which cars will be in the semimain races and the winners of those two go on to the final main event. On the four–lane track the top two in the semi-mains go into the main. At most only eight of the dozen or more of us get to race in the semis and only two to four in the main, so most of us spend the evening serving as the unpaid corner marshals. Yes, I am whigning because I need the track time to learn to drive more than they do. Is there a race format that allows everyone the same amount of race time?

Thank you, Ray Hernandez

The race format your club is using is used by some other model car racing clubs and it is more-or-less standard with the small oval races for full-size cars. The goal is to get the fastest cars and drivers in that main event to make it as exciting as pos-

44 Model Car Racing

I would appreciate your input, Randy Rinnspan

Honestly, the loose body really is a “patch” to hide an imperfectly-setup car. If you have replaced the axles with precision drill blanks, trued the wheels to perfect roundness, sanded the tires to match, secured the motor and bearings and, in general, spent at least eight hours getting the chassis perfectly level and balanced there should be no need for a loose body. Most of us, though, have cars that do vibrate because the wheels and tires are just slightly out of round and there’s just a bit too much bearing or motor slop and, perhaps, the front axle moves too far up and down (not to say side to side). The result of all those imperfections is that the chassis tends to vibrate and that vibration results in tire hop which, of course, means the tires are not getting enough grip and the car is not negotiating the corners as quickly as it should. The basic physics of that loose body are that it isolates the body from the chassis so the body does not serve like a drum to amplify the vibrations.

Some builders cut slim rubber washers to fit around the body-mounting screws to prevent the body from actually rattling on the screws because that rattle is setting up another vibration frequency. One of the downsides of that loose body is that it does not provide any additional stiffness to keep the chassis flat and aligned. Some model car tuners add meal stiffening rails to the chassis held in place with metalfilled epoxy. The separate motor pods are another area where there is no consensus about which is best, the pod tightened into chassis or the pods left loose or with just two or four of screws left loose. We tried every combination of tight body and chassis, tight pod and loose pod in issues 69 through 73. The testing concept and most of the tuning tips are described in the “Six-Screw” Hop-Up article in the number 69 issue (also at www.modelcarracingmag.com under “Sample Issues”).

½½ New To The Hobby?

There’s more information on pages 24-25 of this issue. There are some basic tune-up tips that are needed for every model race car on www.modelcarracingmag.com under the “New to the hobby?” link. There are 13 tips including: How To Get Started in Model Car Racing, Lap Counting, Two Driving Techniques, Perfect Pickup Braid, Tire Mounting, Cleaning Track Rails, Cleaning Track, Avoiding Disaster: Oil & Grease, Race Program Set Up: Color Coding & Racing classes, Reliable Wires, Chassis Set Up, Carrera Guide Shoe Mods and Gearing setups. There’s lots more you can do, including changing to silicone rear tires with better grip, loosening the body-to-chassis screws and more.

HO Home Racing Auto World Banked Curve Track Auto World has added a super-fast 18-inch radius banked curve to their line of HO track. Because the curve is banked, the cars can actually travel far faster than on a flat curve. In effect, then, the banked curve allows the cars to respond as though they were on a much larger and faster flat curve. The curves will be in the Auto World SRS316 NASCAR race set this summer with replicas of Jeff Gordan's and Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s cars. Individual track pieces will be available later.

Auto World’s new high-bank track provides the visual excitement of a banked raceway and the 20-degree banking is steep enough so the cars can negotiate the curve at much higher speeds than on an equivalent flat curve.

The Auto World banked track is supported on very stable vertical posts with triangular bases.

The Auto World banked turns are 45-degree pieces so you can recreate the Indy 500 rectangular track with turns 1 and 2 and turns 3 and 4 assembled with two the Auto World banked turns, a single 9-inch straight and two more banked turn pieces.

If you are using the banked turn for just one of the curves on a otherwise-flat road course, separate the banked turns from the flat curves of the track with at least two 15-inch straights to leave enough room for the track to flatten out from the angle on the banked turn.

Model Car Racing 45

Club Directory ��������������������� Most model car racers prefer to race at home on their own tracks with a few friends. There are hundreds of model car racing clubs in the world but some of them are groups who race very highly modified cars on tracks routed from wood or PVC. The model racing cars you see on the pages of this magazine are all designed to be raced on plastic tracks (although they can be raced on most wood or PVC tracks) from Scalextric, Sport, Carrera, NINCO, SCX, Riggen or Artin or the older Strombecker, Revell or Monogram tracks 1/32 scale tracks or Tomy AFX or Mattel/Tyco HO tracks.

class where extra magnets are allowed or different bodies. We try to NOT list the clubs that primarily race cars with hand-made metal chassis and clear plastic bodies---those clubs are listed on various internet sites or you can find most of them through the Old Weird Harold site at http://www.oldweirdherald.com.

There are hundreds of dealers in the country that have operating tracks in the store.

We cannot list them all, but you can contact the ones in your area from the list of dealers that carry Model Car Racing magazine www.modelcarracingmag.com.

The clubs that are listed here are groups whose main interest is to race out-ofthe box cars and mostly on plastic tracks (although the club may also race on one or two hand-routed wood or PVC tracks). The group may have a modified

If your group races out-of-the-box 1/32 scale or HO scale cars, with only occasionally events for modified cars) send us the information at www.modelcarracingmag.com and we’ll try to include your club in the next issue.

California, Los Angeles (Glendale): OTHG – Farrout Slot Car Club. Contact Stephen Farr-Jones 818-416-9188, www.farroutslotcars.com/

Illinois, Central area: Hotslots 1/32 Slot Car Shop, 1809 A. Philo Road, Urbana, IL 61802 (217) 3552277, info@hotslots132.com

Missouri, St. Louis area: (Carl Shorle) gsra@ swbell.net

California, Fresno area: Insane SCRC, Joe Cabral Joe_Cabral@comcast.net

Illinois, Chicago area: Bolingbrook Speedway, Karl Staehlin, karlstaehlin@gmail.com

California, North San Diego County: Nomad Slot Racing Club, Jim Cunningham (760)492-4619 jim@NomadRaceways.com www.NomadSlotRacing.com

Illinois, Chicago area: Great Lakes Slot Car Club, contact: www.greatlakesscc.com

California, North San Diego County, Escondido - “The Slot Outlaws” 760-747-4511 or email: rick_houston@hotmail.com California, San Jose area: Devin Mauldin web@ flyinghump.com California, South Bay (Los Angeles): Stan Smith (310)812-1866 stan.dsmith@tw.com California, South Bay (Los Angeles): ITG - In The Groove Slot Car racing, 324 W. Florence Ave., Inglewood, CA 90301. Contact: Marc Natividad (310) 200-6300. ftnzguru@aol.com Colorado, Denver area: Rocky Mountain Slot Car Club (RMSSC) http://rmscclub.proboards.com/index.cgi Colorado, Denver Area, Colorado Slot car Club, contact: http://coslotcarclub.proboards.com/

Illinois, Chicago Area: JYD Racing, contact www. toys4slots.com Illinois, Peoria/ Metamora area: Peoria Model Car Raceway, (309) 573-1027, historybuff.stange@gmail.com, (309)712-3299 butterbean722004@yahoo.com Indiana, Indianapolis area: (Jeremy Dunning) jeremydunning@hotmail.com Indiana, Terre Haute area: Otter Creek Slot Racing Association, Bob Redman rredman427@aol.com Iowa, Cedar Rapids area: Iowa Model Area Racers, http://imar.us/ Indiana, Fort Wayne area: Wallace Dale Monroe, wallmonroe@aol.com Iowa, Cedar Rapids area: ERASR (Ecurie Road America Scale Racers) Art (319)626-6374 Iowa, Swisher area: IMAR (Iowa Model Auto Racing), Jerry Hightshoe lowboot2@hotmail.com

Colorado, Denver area: Front Range Vintage Slotcar and Historical Racing Club, http://monovell. proboards.com/index.cgi

Kentucky, Louisville area: Derby City Slot Car Club, www.derbycityslotcarclub.proboards.com/ Mark@derbycityspeedway.com

D.C., Washington area: The Capital Racing League, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tcrl, contact: Warsteiner42@aol.com

Louisiana, Lake Charles area: Lake Area Slot Car Auto Racing, Julian Guillory, http://groups.yahoo. com/group/LASCAR

D.C., Washington area (Alexandria): Classic Slot Car Association (CSSA), John Roberts, (703) 5825504, jonrob-1@msn.com D.C., Washington Metro area: Old Dominion Slot Car Club, 5322 Graystone Rd., Warrenton, VA 20187, contact: Chris Bowles (540)341-1405 or, info@nascarslots.com, www.nascarslots.com or www.metalracer.com

Maryland, Baltimore area: (Allan Schwartz) compass@bellatlantic.net Michigan, Grand Rapids area: Rivershore International Raceway, Alto, Michigan, Stephen Thomas, (616) 891-1632. email: sbbthomas@aol.com Michigan, Kalamazoo area: West Michigan Slot Car Group, John Lacko (269) 344-5588, jalacko@aol.com https://www.facebook.com/ groups/205657316120426/

HO Clubs: The majority of HO racing on a club level in the US is home sectional tracks, using hard bodies and largely stock equipment. The majority are Thunderjet focused, although many do run the Life-Like, Auto World, Playing Mantis, G-Plus and Mattel/Tyco cars, these mass produced magnet cars tend California, Bay area: M.S.C.R.C. - Model Slot Car Racing Club www.mscrc.orgemail: info@ mscrc.org California, Bay area: Shaunadega Racing www. shaunadega.com California, South Bay (Los Angeles): ITG - In The Groove Slot Car racing, 324 W. Florence Ave. Inglewood, CA 90301. Contact: Marc Natividad (310) 200-6300. ftnzguru@aol.com Colorado, Denver area: Front Range HO (FRHO)

46 Model Car Racing

Missouri, St. Louis area: Monaco Grand Prix Miniature Racing Club, www.mgpmrc.org, email: mgpmrc@mgpmrc.org New York, Binghamton Area: Tri-County Slots, Contact: gjtecza@yahoo.com New York, Watkins Glen area: The Slot Car Club Of The Twin Tiers, Contact: Frank Spena, Jr., sccottt1@yahoo.com North Carolina, Winston-Salem area: Road America Racers, King City, North Carolina, Tom Brooks, (336) 985-3867 or mrnova@alltel.net Ohio, Columbus area: 1/32 Slot Car Racers of Central Ohio, Randy Horton, http://groups.yahoo. com/group/1-32SlotCarRacersOfCentralOhio Oregon, Portland area: Beaverton Area Slot Car Club (B.A.S.C.C.),15430 SW Gull Ct., Beaverton, Oregon 97007, 503-330-6907 Pennsylvania, Allentown-Reading area: Allen & Allen Motor Speedway Racing, (610) 520-7247, Jallenenterprises@verizon.net Pennsylvania, Chambersburg area.

Sherman Collings modelersc@comcast.net (717) 377-1435 Pennsylvania, Harrisburg area: Homestead Speedway, Landisville, Pennsylvania. Ken Falco at KFalco@Studio5architects.com Pennsylvania, Manheim area: D & B Raceways, Don Noll don_nll@yahoo.com Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area: Mt. Airy Racing Association, Herbert Bigelow (215) 868-4464, herb310@juno.com

Texas, Eastern area: East Texas Slot Car Association, Tyler , TX 75771, (903)882 0965 ETXSCA@ hotmail.com Texas, Houston (Northwest Harris County): Houston Scale Auto Racing Club (HSARC), www.hsarc. net, (281)807-4026.

Northern Virginia-Metro DC area: Northern Virginia Digital Slot Racers, contact: Hayes Lewis, hayeslewis@yahoo.com Vermont, Burlington area: Burlington Slot Dorks, Daniel, aircooled@pbfoot.com Williamsburg Virginia area: The Barn Burners” Contact: Joseph Brimer vagators@yahoo.com Washington, Auburn area: Rainier Raceways, Greg Gaub ggaub@ggaub.com Washington, Seattle/Tacoma area: PSSRA (Puget Sound Slot Car Racing Association) http://pssra. webhop.net/ or Tony Kuljis, kuljis2@msn.com Washington, Seattle/Tacoma area: NMRL (Northwest Model Racing League). John MacKenzie (206)295-9980, jicemanmac@msn.com Toronto, Canada area: Scale Sloters 1/32, chris.w@rogers.com Vancouver, Canada area: (Luf Linkert) luf@ telus.net

1/24 scale racing clubs: Oregon, Eugene area: Pelican Park Speedway (541)349-0917 htm210@comcast.

Digital Racing Clubs: Phoenix, Arizona area: DSCRC-Phoenix, Carrera 1/32 & 1/24 only, email lewbr2002@yahoo.com

Pennsylvania, Wilkes Barre Area: NEPA Slot Car Club, 570-903-9182, nepaslotcars.com

Ohio, Mansfield area: Mid-Ohio 1/32 Scale Racing Club, chorp@ohio.net, John Chorpening (419) 289-6563

Pennsylvania, Wyoming Valley Area: Wyoming Valley Slot Car Association, Nanticoke, Pennsylvania, wvsca.blogspot.com

Northern Virginia-Metro DC area: Northern Virginia Digital Slot Racers, contact: Hayes Lewis, hayeslewis@yahoo.com

to be utilized by small round robin groups by invitation or as groups of friends.

There are some excellent clubs across the US racing basically stock hardshell T-Jet cars for the most part on sectional home tracks. This is only a partial listing. If you have an active group racing hard-bodied T-Jet-style cars, let us know.

club. http://www.scaleracers.com/FrontRangeHO/ default.asp

Missouri, Kansas City area: http://home.kc.rr.com/jhabernal/mahor/

Illinois, Chicago area: http: nitro-racing.4t.com/

Missouri, St. Louis area: gsra@swbell.net

Indiana, Fort Wayne area: Wallace Monroe, wallmonroe@aol.com

Ohio, Columbus area: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/colohhoscc/ messages

Kentucky / Virginia area: http://www.thunderjetracing.com/

Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area: http://vintagehoracing.mr-bigstuff.com/

Michigan, Lansing area: NASAR, Richard Leeper (517) 290-9952 or lansingNASAR@myway.com

Pennsylvania, Wilkes Barre Area: NEPA Slot Car Club, 570-903-9182, nepaslotcars.com

Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area: Mt. Airy Racing Association, Herbert Bigelow (215) 868-4464, herb310@juno.com Winston-Salem/Greenville, South Carolina area: Upstate HO Slot Car Club, 403 Hill Lane, Mauldin, SC 29662 - (864) 967-7865 Richard Tabb at mrnova@alltel.net or Steve Lorch at youneedjesus@juno.com United Kingdom, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire Burning Rubber, www.burningrubber.net

86 Books & Back Issues: All of the books by Robert Schleicher are currently out of print.

We have no paper copies of any back issue. You may be able to find some paper back issues at some of our dealers on the www.modelcarracingmag.com website, and Electric Dreams (www.electricdreams.com) has most of them as well as a few of the number 1 through 6 issues (from 2002) with a Scalextric Limited edition Cadillac Northstar LeMans car.

Internet versions of issues number 55 through 69 (all the issues from 2011, 2012 and 2013) and issues number 70 through 86 are available at $4.95 each direct from the Apple iTunes store for the iPad, but only as readable and downloadable copies.

We have tried to keep the most significant material in print because photocopying back issue articles is not an option. The most important tuning and race setup information is on the www.modelcarracingmag.com website under the left hand link “New To The Hobby” as well as information on 1/43 scale vs. 1/32 scale. All of the Race Track Test results from issue #1 through #84 are also on the website under the top bar link ”More Information” then in the left box “Race Car Tests” and there is information on selecting a specific brand of track. All of the articles on digital racing, on visits to “Your Tracks”, 4 x 8 and 5 x 9-foot 1/32 scale plans, 4 x 8-foot HO plans and additional features from issues #44 (March/April 2009) through the current issue are available on the website under the top bar link “Sample Issues”. These are readable and printable but cannot be downloaded for security purposes.

All of the articles from the first 84 issues are indexed under the top bar “More Information”, then scroll down on the left to “Model Car Racing Index”. The index

is searchable (with Safari, Firefox and others) under the top bar “Edit”, then scroll down to “Find”.

However, most of the articles from any of these issue are only available in the full paper or iPad issues, including the larger plans for “Real Race Tracks On A Tabletop” and the majority of articles comparing model cars to their prototypes, with the history and provenance of over 300 cars including the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s Formula 1 cars, Jaguars from XK120 to C to D to E to XKR, most of the GT, sports and Formula 1 Ferraris and Porsches and more.

The majority of the material (including all of the race track plans and visits to finished home tracks) that appeared in the in the January/February 2005 through November/December 2007 (numbers 19 through 36) issues of Model Car Racing is in the book SLOT CAR RACING IN THE DIGITAL AGE. Similarly, much of the material in SLOT CAR RACING, TIPS, TECHNIQUES & TRACK PLANS was first published in the magazine in the January/February 2003 through November/ December 2004 (numbers 7 through 18) issues but both of those books are no longer in print and no reprints are scheduled. At present, no additional books are in preparation.

There are two other earlier books on model car racing (also by Robert Schleicher) that contain additional material that was not published in this magazine but both books are long out of print: RACING AND COLLECTING SLOT CARS was published in 2001 and the SLOT CAR BIBLE in 2002.

To subscribe to Model Car Racing magazine, click on “SUBSCRIBE” on the top bar the www.modelcarracingmag.com home page.

Model Car Racing 47

Le Mans: MMK 1956 Jaguar XK140 Coupe MMK has produced the first 1/32 scale replica of the fifties-era Jaguar XK140 Coupe. The model is available in street trim or as this accurate replica of the XK140 that raced at LeMans in 1956.

The XK140 had an incredible start at LeMans in 1956, effectively third on the track (until the other three D-Types get off the starting lane and on the track), behind the Aston Martin DB3S of Stirling Moss and Peter Collins.---LAT Photo

■■by Albin Burroughs Jaguar has used LeMans to both develop and publicize its production cars for over 60 years.

All of the Jaguars that won LeMans were all-out race cars but the C-Types that won in LeMans in 1951 and 1953 and D-Types that won in 1956 and 1957 did use an engine that was based on the street-going Jags. However, production Jaguars did race at LeMans, an XK120 in 1951 and this XK140 in 1956. Robert Lawrie and Ivan Waller drove that XK120 to finish 11th overall (Ninco has produced this car and there’s an article on a repainted out-of-production Highway Pioneers/Revell kit in the January/February 2008 number 37 issue).

Robert Walshaw bought this XK140 and entered it in rallies before sending it to Jaguar’s competition shop for some “adjustments” before entering the car in the 1956 LeMans race.

The factory rebuilt the engine, adding a D-Type cylinder head with two massive SU carburetors. A new transmission was fitted. The bumpers were removed and the doors, trunk lid and hood were replaced with aluminum, including a nice set of louvers on the hood. The nose was modified with cooling ducts beside the grill for the engine and below the bumper mounts to cool the drum brakes. By NASCAR standards, the car was virtually showroom stock. Walshaw paid for all this work, a total nearly the price of a new car (but likely a fraction of the actual labor cost).

Robert Walshaw and his co-driver Peter Bolton drove the car from England to LeMans (with an aircraft transport over the English Channel). The Jaguar was running in the top twelve and may have won the GT class but the officials claimed it had been refueled too early and the car was disqualified a few hours before the finish of the race. The car was then sold to Ivor Bueb who was able to finish second to one of the Mercedes 300SL factory-entered coupes at Oulton Park a few months later.

48 Model Car Racing

The MMK model captures the look of the Jaguar very nicely. The XK140 coupes were not as sleek as the previous XK120 coupes, with more bulbous cabins. The details that distinguish the LeMans car, including the four vents in the nose and visible ridges where the rear wheel covers (spats, as they were called in the day) fitted are correct as well a nice pair of louvers on top of the hood, the quick-filler fuel cap and correct PWT 846 license. The window frames, windshield wipers, wire wheel inserts and grill are fine etched-metal components. It’s a mystery to me how MMK manages to attach all these fine parts without a trace of cement. The MMK replica of the XK140 is also available as a "street" version in black, red or white.

The body and chassis are cast-resin but the car is about the same weight as the Flyslot BMW M1 so weight will not be a problem The motor appears to be a match for those used by Scalextric and the crown gear looks similar so the model should be about as quick as some Scalextric coupes. Whether you want to risk bending those etched-metal parts is your decision but this is a race car, not just a display piece. All four wheels are set-screw-mount aluminum with a plastic crown gear a press-fit on the axle.

MMK 1956 Jaguar XK140 LeMans

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model should be in 1/32 scale:

The dimensions of the MMK model:

Length:

176.0 in (4,470 mm)

5.50 in. (139.7 mm)

5.02 in. (132.5 mm)

Width:

64.5 in (1,638 mm)

2.02 in. (51.2 mm)

2.00 in. (51.2 mm)

Height:

NA

NA

1.71 in. (43.3 mm)

Wheelbase*

102.0 in.

3.19 in. (81.0 mm)

3.22 in. (82.0 mm)

Track, Front:

51.0 in.

1.59 in. (40.5 mm)

1.55 in. (39.2 mm)

Track, Rear:

50.5 in.

1.58 in. (40.1 mm)

1.55 in. (39.2 mm)

Tires, Front:

6.00-16

4.7 x 22.2 mm

6.4 x 19.9 mm

Tires, Rear:

6.00-16

4.7 x 22.2 mm

6.4 x 19.9 mm

Weight:

3,200 lbs.

NA

90 grams (3 1/8 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

The MMK XK140 is fitted with a three-piece cast-resin chassis and the model has set-screw mount front and rear wheels with etched-metal wire wheel inserts.

40 grams (1 3/8 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

50 grams (1 3/4 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

NA

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

NA

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

0.9 mm (.036 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

0.8 mm (.030 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

90.1 mm (3.55 in.)

Gear Ratio:

3.00:1 (9/27)

Notes: * Length is measured over bumpers---the race-ready car about 6 to 9-inches shorter.

SOURCE: Road & Track June 1955

There is no downforce magnet. The MMK chassis is split horizontally. The crown gear is a press-fit on the axle.

Model Car Racing 49

½½ LeMans 1956 in 1/32 Scale The number 4 Jaguar D-type was the winner at LeMans in 1956. The model is a ten-year old Carrera “short nose” Mille Miglia car with the numbers replaced with decals— Scalextric has offered very similar replicas of the 1957 winner but it they are the long-nose D-Type. The number 55 Lotus 11 is the MMK replica (from www.electricdreams. com) of the 1957 car (that was in the May/June 2007 number 33 issue). Ninco and Monogram have offered models of the Porsche 550---this is number 47 one of the Revell models. Not shown: MMK also offers replicas of the Ferrari TR500, number 20, 21 and 22 team cars and the Ferrari 625LM LeMans 1956, number 10, 11 and 12 team cars from LeMans 1956.

50 Model Car Racing

The number 21 car is a replica of XK120 roadster that raced at LeMans in 1951. This is an out-of-production Highway Pioneers/Revell kit that was in the January/February 2008 number 37 issue but Ninco also produced a replica of the car last year.

Model Car Racing 51

Formula 1: Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B The latest Scalextric replica of the phenomenally successful Lotus 49 recreates the car with deck-mounted “ducktail” spoiler from early 1968.

■■by Albin Burroughs The Lotus 49 was one of most successful Formula 1 cars of the late sixties. The car won its first Formula 1 race at the Dutch Grand Prix in 1967, the Lotus 49 carried Graham Hill to the 1968 Formula 1 World Championship and two seasons later Jochen Rindt won the 1970 Monaco Grand Prix in a Lotus 49 before the car was replaced by the Lotus 72 that Rindt drove to win the 1970 Championship. The 1967 Lotus 49s were green with a yellow stripe and, in 1968, 1969 and 1970, the cars were usually red with a gold stripe, the colors of the team’s sponsor Gold Leaf cigarettes. The Scalextric number C3656A Lotus 49 is a replica of the duck tailed-body fitted early in 1968. It is painted to match the car that Graham Hill drove to win the 1968 Monaco Grand Prix.

Scalextric has produced replicas of most of the significantly-different Lotus 49 bodies, starting with the green and yellow car with no wings that was featured in the July/August 2008 number 40 issue. Scalextric has also offered the no-wing version in red and gold, the 1968 car with the small low-wing is coming later in 2016 (C3699A and C3707A) and the single high wing car (C3413, C3543 and C3544) have been produced in 2015 and 2015. They will likely offer replicas of the double high-wing cars and the last Lotus 49 with the large wing over the rear deck (like the Lotus 72) in the next year or two. This latest Lotus 49B is a replica of cars that ran in first few races of 1968 with a low “duck tail” over the engine.

The tail on the Scalextric model is about 1/8-inch too high to clear the large cover for the model’s crown gear. You can lower the cover by whittling-away small portions of the chassis. There’s more information on the Lotus 49 in the July/August 2008 number 40, March/April 2010 number 50, January/February 2014 number 73 and March/April 2015 number 80 issues.

mance. The lap times and other test results for all of the track tests in the first 84 issues are available on the website under “More Information”, then click on the link “Race Car Tests”.

Model Car Racing Track Test: Lap Times with Downforce Magnet

36-foot Scalextric Indy F1 Course:

36-foot Carrera Indy F1 Course:

Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B

3.53 sec.

3.95 sec.

½½ How Fast Magnet-Free (with silicone rear tires)?

The Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B Grand Prix car the same FF-size motor mounted inline as the Scalextric 1967 Lotus 49 Grand Prix car was Race Track Tested “Magnet-Free” (with the downforce magnet removed, 1/8-ounce of weight and silicone rear tires) in the July/August 2008 number 40 issue, so the 49B should have similar performance.

½½ How Fast With Downforce Magnet?

The Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B Grand Prix car the same FF-size motor mounted inline as the Scalextric 1967 Lotus 49 Grand Prix car was Race Track Tested “Out-of-the-box” (with the downforce magnet in place and stock rear tires) in the July/August 2008 number 40 issue, so the 49B should have similar perfor-

52 Model Car Racing

The round downforce magnet is mounted just in front of the motor.

Model Car Racing Track Test: Lap Times Magnet Free

36-foot Scalextric Indy F1 Course:

36-foot Carrera Indy F1 Course:

Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B

5.07 sec.

4.43 sec.

Scalextric 1968 Lotus 49B

SPEC SHEET

The Prototype (the real car):

The size the model The dimensions of the should be in 1/32 scale: Scalextric model:

Length:

158.5 in.

4.95 in. (125.8 mm)

5.07 in. (128.7 mm)

Width:

74.0 in.(overall)

2.31 in. (58.7 mm)

2.34 in. (59.2 mm)

Height:

31.0 in.

.97 in. (26.6 mm)

.97 in. (26.6 mm)

Wheelbase*

95.0 in.

2.97 in. (75.4 mm)

2.97 in. (75.4 mm)

Track, Front:

60.0 in.

1.88 in. (47.6 mm)

1.84 in. (46.7 mm)

Track, Rear:

61.0 in.

1.91 in. (47.7 mm.)

2.07 in. (42.5 mm)

Tires, Front:

NA

NA

7.4 x 18.9

Tires, Rear:

NA

NA

10.5 x 19.5

Weight:

1, 170 lbs.

NA

50 grams (1 3/4 oz.)

Weight on Front Tires:

20 grams (3/4 oz.)

Weight on Rear Tires:

30 grams (1 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Carrera:

58 grams (2 1/8 oz.)

Magnetic Downforce on Scalextric:

145 grams (5 1/4 oz.)

Ground Clearance on Carrera:

1.2 mm (.050 in.)

Ground Clearance on Scalextric:

1.1 mm (.045 in.)

Pickup Lead (pivot to rear axle):

83.0 mm (3.27 in.)

Gear Ratio:

3.00:1 (9/27)

The rear axle bearings snap-into the top half of the body.

SOURCE: THE LOTUS BOOK, SERIES THREE, by William Taylor

Model Car Racing 53

Tech Tips: ������������������������ ½½ Upgrading the Scalextric Lotus 49B The rear engine cover on the Scalextric model sits about 1/8-inch too high (on pgs 52-53) but you can lower it to the correct height.

Scalextric was forced to mount the wing so high to clear the massive crown gear cover. Clip off the top of the cover parallel with the top of the crown gear. The exposed crown gear might allow a bit of grease to fly but it does not effect the model’s performance.

The top half of the gearbox cover must also be cut-off so the engine cover can be lowered to the proper height.

Use sprue cutters or fingernail scissors to cut the mounting posts for the engine cover.

Any part of the gearbox or suspension that is higher than the top of the exposed crown gear must be trimmed away. Cement the engine cover to the left top of the gearbox cover with metal-filed epoxy or Shoe Goo.

Clip-off the mounting pegs on underside of the engine cover.

54 Model Car Racing

Clip-of the tops of the rear suspension verticals and the oil cooler.

Toy Fair Report: All New For 2016-2017 Most of the model car racing manufacturers introduce the products that will be shipped in 2016 at the Nuremburg International Toy Fair in early February, which is about the time this magazine is already in your hands. We will have a full report from Toy Fair on www.modelcarracingmag.com under the left sidebar and it will also appear in the next printed issue. A few of the manufacturers announce what will be coming earlier. About a fourth of the cars that were announced back in February 2014 and, again in 2015, are yet to be shipped but most of those February announcements were long-term introductions so you will not see some of them until early 2017. There are dozens of new paint schemes on existing bodies coming for 2016 but the only ones listed below are cars made from new tooling.

Since we do not know what is coming here’s our…

½½ “WISH LIST” : • 2015 Porsche 919 Hybrid LeMans • 2015 Audi R18 e-tron quattro LeMans • 2015 Toyota TS 040 Hybrid LeMans (all three from the same manufacturer so they will have similar performance—slim chance!)

• 2017 Ford GT LeMans • 2017 Honda NSX

½½ 1/32 SCALE: • Scalextric (http://www.scalextric.com/us-en/ shop/new-for-2016.html): 1970 Trans-Am Javelin, 2014 Ford Daytona Prototype, 1988 BMW M3 E30, Australian Ford XY GT-HO Falcon, 2014 BMW Mini F56, Ford Sierra RS500, Australian Ford XC Falcon and four new BTCC cars; Honda Civic, BMW 125, MG6 and VW Passat. All of these new cars have bodies designed to accept replacement PCR chassis to fit Slot.it pods, motors and drive train. There’s a two-car 007 Spectre 2017 Aston Martin DB10 and 2017 Jaguar C-X75 set.

There’s also a 2014 ‘Street” Camaro but the Camaro is only available in a set with a C6R Corvette, track, transformer and controllers. The 1969 (1970 with 1969 deco, as the previous version) red/black/white Trans-Am Mustang (and the no. 9 Sunoco Camaro) are also coming but only in a complete racing track set.

• Slot.it: Still due from 2015: 1967 Chaparral 2G, 2000 Audi R8 LMP and a new series of classic early-90s DTM cars, the Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI and Opel Calibra (all with the option of installing the Slot.it belt-drive four-wheel system)

• Pioneer (www.pioneerslotcars.com): Still due from 2012: British “Legends” dirt track coupes, 1965 MGB hardtop, 1970 Plymouth Barracuda Trans-Am, and 1970 Javelin Trans-Am. • Flyslot: 2007 and 2008 Lamborghini Diablo.

• Racer “Sideways” range from 2015: Group 5 Mustang GTP, Kremer 935K3, Lancia Stratos Turbo, Nissan Skyline, and Toyota Celica • SRC (Slot Racing Company): 1979 Formula 1 Ferrari 312 T4 and Renault RS10 and 1972 Matra M670B LeMans • NSR: to be announced at Toy Fair • Mr. Slotcar: Still due from 2012: 1969 Lola T70 • Cartrix: 1960 Scarab and 1961 Ferguson P99 Grand Prix cars still due from 2012.

• Le Mans Miniatures (cast resin): to be announced at Toy Fair • MSC: to be announced at Toy Fair

½½ 1/24 Scale: • Carrera: to be announced at Toy Fair • ScaleAuto: to be announced at Toy Fair

½½ 1/43 Scale:

• And just a half-dozen of the classics we still do not have:

• Policar: 1990 Ferrari F40 and Formula 1 March 701 and March 711 (both with double-gear reduction chassis)

• 1955 Lotus 11

• Carrera: to be announced at Toy Fair

• 1958 Lister Jaguar

• Ninco: to be announced at Toy Fair

½½ HO SCALE:

• 1959 Scarab Mk II sports car

• SCX: 2014 Renault Sport RS-01

• Racemasters AFX: to be announced at Toy Fair

• 1959 Cooper T51 Formula 1

• ScaleAuto: to be announced at Toy Fair

• 1960 Birdcage Maserati

• Avant Slot: to be announced at Toy Fair

• Auto World: Jeff Gordan's and Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s NASCAR SS Chevrolets

• Carrera Go!!!: to be announced at Toy Fair • SCX Compact: to be announced at Toy Fair

• 1961 Lotus 19

New Cars Shipped Recently ��������������������� These are the most recent shipments of new cars and products. Most are limited production so you may need to shop some to buy what you want.

Racer Sideways HC03 Porsche 935 Pink Pig tribute, Limited Edition Sideways SWPUM/001 Gas Pump Gulf painted

Racer Sideways HC02 Ford Capri Zakspeed Gr.5 - Gold Leaf Limited Edition - J.Rindt tribute

Sideways SWFIG-007 Playboy Pit Girl Figure with umbrella

Model Car Racing 55

Scalextric C3759A Tyrrell 003, no. 9, Francois Cevert

BRM has shipped new Porsche 917s and Ferrari 512S cars in 1/24 scale including: BRM038 Porsche 917 #20 "Gulf" 1971 LeMans 1/24 scale

Flyslot has shipped their second car with a sound chip (it is also available with the Avant Slot hi-per chassis but that version has no sound) 704104S with SOUND CHIP Porsche 911 Spa 24 Hours, drivers T, Bernhard, P. Lamy and M. Leib

Slot.it SICA20C Ford MKII no. 5 3rd LeMans, R. Bucknum, D. Hutcherson

BRM040 Ferrari 512M 'Camel Filter' #6, 1/24 scale NSR 0003SW Gulf Livery 917K #2 “Double Fin” Scalextric C3657A Lotus 72 Tony Trimmer, Brands Hatch

Slot.it SICA25D Porsche 962 IMSA #10 WYNN’S 24 Hour Daytona 1987

The NSR 0006 “Take no Prisoners” RED Corvette C6R is available as either a sidewinder or an anglewinder.

Scalextric C3638 Lancia Delta S4 'Totip'

Scalextric C3647 Caterham

NSR0005IL Audi R18 e-tron quattro #1 Limited Edition Silver/Yellow

Scalextric C3633 Volkswagen Polo 'Red Bull'

BRM042 Ferrari 512M 'Camel Filter' #9, 1/24 scale

Scalextric C3760 Volkswagen Van, 2-Tone Mint/White

SRC 01609 Porsche 914 GT Jagermeister

Scalextric C3637 Ford RS200 no. 5 Belga Team

BRM041 Ferrari 512M 'Camel Filter' #7, 1/24 scale

BRM038W Porsche 917 'White Gulf' #20, 1/24 scale

Scalextric C3761 Volkswagen Van, Love & Flower Power SRC 01601 Porsche 914/6 Rally Montecarlo 1971 BRM039 Porsche 917 "Gulf" #21, 1/24 scale

Scalextric C3639 MG Metro 6R4, no. 35

56 Model Car Racing

Scalextric C3703A Lotus Type 72, no.

2, Team Lotus

Coming Next Issue The May/June 2016 number 87 issue of Model Car Racing will be on sale April 15, 2016 and it has the articles you asked for: • Install a Scalextric Digital Chip in any Formula 1 car • Build your own track: super-detailed super-strong scenery • Formula 1 - Carrera 2014 Mercedes F1 W05 Hybrid - Policar 1970 Lotus 72 - SRC 1979 Formula 1 Renault RS10 • Track Tests (Magnet-free): - Mr. Slotcar 1995 McLaren F1 GT LeMans - MRRC 1964 Ferrari GTO LM Randy Pepprock applied the skills he developed building a half-dozen model railroads to his 6 x 12-foot HO scale AFX Speedway. He’ll show you what he did and how he did it beginning in May/June 2016 number 87 issue of Model Car Racing.

• Race Track Plans: - 4-Lane “Small King” Raceway on an 8 x 24-foot tabletop

Now You Can Have Model Car Racing Delivered to Your Mailbox for Just $35 — That Sixth Issue Is Just 25 Cents

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Now Available for iPads We cannot process orders for iPad downloads—they must be ordered directly from the Apple iTunes store.

This Internet version of Model Car Racing cannot be downloaded for security purposes. You can, however, print one or all of the pages of the magazine for your own use, but be aware that the files are large and will take some time. The paper copies cannot, of course, be sold or distributed because they are protected by International copyright. We would advise you to print any articles you wish to archive because we can only provide access to the Internet versions for the six issues (12 months) of your subscription.

We can only process orders about the 15th of each odd numbered month so there may be a delay in your receiving email notification that your first Internet issue is available to you on the web. Mail delivery of the paper copies can add a week or so to that. You will be notified by email that each of the next five Internet issues are available on the same day that the paper copies are mailed, which is about the first of every even month. Note that you will not be able to read this $24.95 internet version or the internet version offered with the paper copy subscriptions on an iPad, iPad versions are only available direct from those stores---we cannot “bundle” the paper or the $24.95 internet versions with any of the tablet

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Model Car Racing 57

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58 Model Car Racing

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