2015 Guide - Buenos Aires

Page 1

2015 GUIDE BUENOS AIRES

www.buenosaires.gob.ar/turismo

/TurismoBA

03



BUENOS AIRES CITY GUIDE


We invite you to visit and experience Buenos Aires and its neighborhoods as your own with their thousand and one faces. Our city streets and parks can be enjoyed on foot, by bike or aboard one of the sightseeing buses. Come and fall in love with the dazzling Puerto Madero, the mythical Costanera Sur, colorful Caminito, the impressive Obelisk and the many other traditional bohemian street corners every neighborhood has. Birthplace of Pope Francis, the Papal city circuit takes you to the most important places he lived and worked before leaving Buenos Aires to live in Rome. Buenos Aires is a modern, cheerful city that is full of life, underpinned by the diverse academic options for students and a calendar of activities and events that people of all ages can enjoy, which make it a bustling city year round, day and night. Buenos Aires is the city of all Argentines and the Cultural Capital of Latin America. Come to enjoy it and be captivated!

Fernando de Andreis

President of Buenos Aires City Tourism Entity /ferdeandreis /deAndreis

02


Buenos Aires is one great city and infinite small ones at the same time. Come with family, friends or on your own, and set out to find your Buenos Aires on foot, bike, walk or as you please. Classic and modern, its neighborhoods with their bohemian air yet starkly unique personalities are best discovered through their renowned bars and alleys full of history, which blend in with international restaurants and great shops. In Buenos Aires, you will be able to experience the strong cultural imprint that makes it such a unique city: museums for adults and children; circuits of art, theater and dance; design poles; vanguard spaces; concerts and festivals; events in public squares and parks; tango in the milongas; and great fairs. Come to feel, laugh, rest and fill your soul. Buenos Aires is yours and of all Argentines. We are waiting for you with open arms.

MarĂ­a Eugenia Vidal

Mauricio Macri

/meugeniavidal

mauriciomacri.com.ar

/mariuvidal

/mauriciomacri

Deputy Mayor

Mayor

03


Caminito


BUENOS AIRES CITY GUIDE Edition 2015

06

WELCOME TO BUENOS AIRES

10

HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

26

TANGO BUENOS AIRES

42

ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

58

MODERN BUENOS AIRES

66

TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

80

LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

98

EXPLORING THE CITY

San Nicolรกs | Monserrat

La Boca | San Telmo | Balvanera

Recoleta | Retiro

Puerto Madero

Palermo

Barracas | Belgrano | Caballito | Flores


WELCOME TO BUENOS AIRES Located on the banks of the Río de la Plata, in mid-eastern Argentina, the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires (CABA for its acronym in Spanish), one of the country’s 24 federal entities, is the country’s capital. As the seat of the federal government, it is also known as Capital Federal. The city is Argentina’s largest urban conglomerate and one of the most populous in South America. It is divided into 48 districts, organized into 15 municipalities.

HISTORY The City of Buenos Aires was founded in 1580 by the Spanish colonizer Juan de Garay, who called it “City of the Holy Trinity.” There is an earlier founding on record, dating back to 1536, when another Iberian explorer Pedro de Mendoza landed here, but at that time was not considered a city because it did not comply with the Laws of India. In the nineteenth century the Argentine government undertook the task of populating the vast nation, and promoted European immigration. Thus, the port of Buenos Aires was the culmination of the Spanish, Italian, Syrian-Lebanese, Polish and Russian people, which marked the cultural eclecticism that distinguishes the city. Throughout the twentieth century, new waves of immigration from Latin America and Asia, added more layers to Buenos Aires as a dynamic, cosmopolitan city, rich in cultural diversity.

Visitors: if you witness or are the victim of any sexual or commercial crime that violates the rights of children or adolescents, you can report it through the toll-free number 102, which belongs to the Council of Children and Adolescents for the city of Buenos Aires. Law 2443.

06

CLIMATE 18 °C (64 °F) Average year-round temperature

JULY Coldest month 45 °F – 59 °F (7 °C – 15 °C)

JANUARY Hottest month 69 °F – 87 °F (20 °C – 30 °C)

SEASONS

SUMMER (December 21 to March 20)

AUTUMN (March 21 to June 20)

WINTER (June 21 to September 20)

SPRING (September 21 to December 20)


Currency

ARGENTINE PESO ($)

GREEN CITY

Time zone

Buenos Aires invites you to enjoy its green spaces, move throughout the city on sustainable transport modes, take advantage of its healthy food choices and responsible shopping, and stay at eco-friendly lodging.

UTC-3

More information at

buenosaires.gob.ar/ciudadverde

Language

SPANISH

BA TURISM APP Download the new BA Tourism app and enjoy on your mobile phone all the content the city has to offer you.

Electricity

220/240V

ACCESSIBILITY

USEFUL NUMBERS

Everyone can enjoy the city on equal terms. The accessibility icons indicate areas equipped for people with different types of disabilities: physicalmotor, visual, auditory, intellectual and visceral.

POLICE

911 FIREFIGHTERS

100

MEDICAL ATTENTION

107 CIVIL DEFENSE

103

TOURIST POLICE

(011) 4346 5748

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERS Florida Florida and Roque Sáenz Peña

Puerto Madero Juana M. Gorriti 200 (Dock 4)

Plaza San Martín Florida and Marcelo T. de Alvear

Recoleta Quintana 596

BENEFITS FOR TOURISTS Buenos Aires should be enjoyed fully, which is why the benefits card “Vos” was created so you don’t miss out on anything during your visit. Check out the list of participating merchants and find out how to register at turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/ beneficios

Retiro Bus station, store 83

07


Buenos Aires City Guide

PORTEÑO NEIGHBORHOODS 20

30 9 48 24

42

46

35

34

13

40

17

7 31 6

12

23

22

19

16 47 39

45

11

25

15

08

32

3

2

PL

29

36

37 18

LA

AT A

28

41 44

E

21

8 26

38

D

10

43 1

O

5

27 33 14

4


DISCOVER BUENOS AIRES

1 Agronomía

25 Parque Patricios

2 Almagro

26 Paternal

3 Balvanera

27 Puerto Madero

4 Barracas

28 Recoleta

5 Belgrano

29 Retiro

6 Boedo

30 Saavedra

7 Caballito

31 San Cristóbal

8 Chacarita

32 San Nicolás

9 Coghlan

33 San Telmo

10 Colegiales

34 Vélez Sarsfield

11 Constitución

35 Versalles

12 Flores

36 Villa Crespo

13 Floresta

37 Villa del Parque

14 La Boca

38 Villa Devoto

15 Liniers

39 Villa Lugano

16 Mataderos

40 Villa Luro

17 Monserrat

41 Villa Mitre

18 Monte Castro

42 Villa Ortúzar

19 Nueva Pompeya

43 Villa Pueyrredón

20 Núñez

44 Villa Real

21 Palermo

45 Villa Riachuelo

22 Parque Avellaneda

46 Villa Santa Rita

23 Parque Chacabuco

47 Villa Soldati

24 Parque Chas

48 Villa Urquiza

09


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES San Nicolás Monserrat

Its street corners, public squares and buildings are penetrated with the city’s history: the colonial period, the British invasion, the ideals of national organization and progress, and the waves of immigration that shaped its inhabitants’ identity. There’s nothing like walking through the city’s downtown streets, along Roque Sáenz Peña Avenue (Diagonal Norte), across Plaza de Mayo and down Corrientes Avenue to live that history firsthand.

10

SAN NICOLÁS This neighborhood was named after the San Nicolás de Bari Church. It was the epicenter of the defense against the British forces during the invasions of 1806 and 1807, and the place where the Argentine flag was hoisted for the first time in 1812. In the twentieth century, the church was demolished and rebuilt in the Recoleta neighborhood, to make way for Roque Sáenz Peña Avenue (Diagonal Norte) and to widen Corrientes Avenue. In its place, in 1936, the iconic Obelisk was opened to commemorate the fourth centennial of the first Spanish settlement along the Rio de la Plata.


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

10

13 City buses

6

Bus lines 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 17, 22, 23, 24, 26, 28, 29, 33, 37, 39, 45, 50, 52, 56, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 67, 70, 75, 86, 91, 93, 98, 99, 100,102, 103, 105, 106, 109, 111, 115, 124, 126, 129, 130, 132, 140, 142, 146, 150, 151, 152, 168, 180, 194, 195

8 11 9

2

3

1

7

4

Metrobus 9 de Julio

Subway A, B, C and D

12

5

PLAZA LAVALLE Lavalle, av. Córdoba, Talcahuano and Libertad

1

Formerly a military barracks, the square was given its current name in 1878 in memory of Juan Lavalle (1797-1841), an Argentine politician and military leader. Within the square, there are several important monuments dear to the city’s inhabitants, such as the statue of Hipólito Yrigoyen, the country’s first democratically elected president in 1916 under the universal, secret compulsory law of suffrage; the fountain of the National Ballet, in tribute to nine Colón Theater dancers who died in a plane crash in 1971; and Memoria Activa, commissioned by the families of the victims of the attack on the Jewish cultural center AMIA (Asociación Mutual Israelita Argentina) in 1994. On Libertad, the temple of the Argentine Israeli Congregation faces the square.

OBELISCO Av. 9 de Julio and Av. Corrientes

2

Inaugurated in 1936 to mark the fourth centennial of the first Spanish settlement along the Rio de la Plata. Public opinion was resistant to the

monument at the time of its opening, but over the years it became one of the strongest symbols of the city.

11


Buenos Aires City Guide

COLÓN THEATER Cerrito 628

3

It is considered one of the ten best opera houses in the world, renowned for its acoustics and the artistic value of the building itself. Distinguished singers, dancers and performers of utmost international renown have performed upon its stage. In 2010, the City of Buenos Aires celebrated the reopening of the Colón Theater, after undergoing an ambitious renovation and technological upgrading.

HOME OF DOMINGO FAUSTINO SARMIENTO Sarmiento 1251

CERVANTES NATIONAL THEATER Av. Córdoba and Libertad

4

One of the main stages in the country, it was inaugurated in 1921. The theater’s name pays homage to the Spanish writer,

author of Don Quixote. Many of the elements of its interior setting, such as tiles, stained glass, tapestries and ironwork, were brought from Spain.

6

In this manor with a neo-Italian facade Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (1811-1888) resided from 1875 until his death. A prominent writer and educator, Sarmiento was president of Argentina between 1868 and 1874, and a driver of progress of the country, especially public education. On the anniversary of his death, September 11, Teacher’s Day is held, a national holiday. Today, it houses the representative offices of the province of San Juan, where Sarmiento was governor.

MASSUÉ WATCH TOWER BORGES CULTURAL CENTER Florida 737. Galerías Pacífico

5

It is an important cultural initiative created by the Foundation for the Arts. It aims to promote and foster Argentine art and culture and disseminate the country’s historical, cultural

12

and artistic heritage both locally and internationally. Opened in 1995, it occupies an important space in the shopping mall Galerías Pacífico.

Talcahuano and Tucumán

7

This watch tower in the shape of a Greek temple formed part of an emblematic design by Alfred Massué, a renowned architect of the art nouveau and anti-academic eclecticism, built in 1909. A modern building replaced the original but the old tower was preserved.


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

LOLA MEMBRIVES THEATER Av. Corrientes 1280

8

It is one of the traditional theaters on Corrientes Avenue. Built in 1927, it was named after one of the most prominent artists to represent of the works of Spanish writers Jacinto Benavente and Federico García Lorca. Its facade is in Italian neo-Renaissance style, with three arched windows along the top floor, decorated with colorful stained glass.

PALACE OF JUSTICE

#TIP

Talcahuano 550

The national flag was raised for the first time in San Nicolás, the neighborhood where the Obelisk stands today.

9

Also known as the Palacio de Tribunales, this sevenstory building in neoclassical style with Greek and Roman influences, houses the

GENERAL SAN MARTÍN THEATER AND CULTURAL CENTER

MULTITEATRO (FORMER BLANCA PODESTÁ THEATER)

Av. Corrientes 1530

Av. Corrientes 1238

10

Located in the heart of the city, the building was opened in 1960. It houses three theaters, a cinema, exhibition halls and a photo gallery. It is also part of the Complejo Teatral of Buenos Aires. It has two permanent companies: the Contemporary Ballet and the Group of Puppeteers.

SANTA CATALINA DE SIENA CHURCH AND FORMER CONVENT San Martín 705 Opened in 1745, it was the first convent for women in Buenos Aires, home to the

12

headquarters of the Judiciary Branch and the Supreme Court of Argentina. It was designed by French architect Norbert Maillart and opened in 1942.

Catalina nuns until 1974. During the English invasion of 1807, the church functioned as a hospital for the wounded of both sides.

11

First opened in 1914 as a cinema, eight years later in 1922 its stage was devoted to the theatrical genre. Many great artists have performed there, where Carlos Gardel and Federico García Lorca met in 1933.

ALVEAR THEATER Av. Corrientes 1659

13

Since 1942, this performance space has been one of the most traditional for Argentine music and theater. With a capacity of thousand seats, its modern infrastructure includes scene and costume shops, and lighting and sound studios. Alvear is one of the five public theaters in the city that form part of a network known as Complejo Teatral of Buenos Aires.

13


Buenos Aires City Guide

MONSERRAT It is the oldest neighborhood in Buenos Aires. In 1580, the first Spanish settlers came here. Around the Plaza de Mayo are the main public buildings, banks, offices, museums and the headquarters of the national executive branch and the Buenos Aires government.

25 27

28

24 23 20 21

19 15

26

11 10 12 22 6 14 13 5 9 4 16 17 7 1 3 8 2 18

City buses

PLAZA DE MAYO Bol铆var, Rivadavia, Balcarce and Hip贸lito Yrigoyen

Metrobus

Bus lines 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12,

9 de Julio

17, 20, 22, 23, 24, 28, 29, 33 ,27, 38, 39, 45, 50, 54, 56, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 67, 70, 74, 86, 90, 91, 93, 96, 98, 100 , 102, 103, 105, 111, 116, 126, 130, 142, 143, 146, 150, 151, 152, 159, 168

A, C and E

14

Subway

1

It is the first public city square, erected in front of the Cabildo, in a space designated by Juan de Garay in 1580. It is named after the Revolution of May 25, 1810, when the locals gathered to expel the Viceroy and form the first Creole government. The Mayo Pyramid was built there in 1811 to celebrate the first anniversary of the revolution. In 1873, the monument to General Manuel Belgrano, creator of the national flag, was added.


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

HOUSE OF GOVERNMENT OR CASA ROSADA Balcarce 50

2

This palace, the seat of the national government, occupies the site where the Fort of Buenos Aires was erected in 1580. It was the residence of the Spanish viceroys and home to the authorities of the successive patriotic governments. The current building is the product of the merger of two previous constructions: the Palacio de Correos and the former presidential palace.

It was first painted pink during the government of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (18681874), the color which gave it its popular name Casa Rosada, Spanish for pink house.

#TIP On weekends, free tours of the Casa Rosada are available. Not to miss: step out onto the iconic balcony overlooking the Plaza de Mayo.

METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL Rivadavia and San Martín

3

Headquarters of the Catholic Church in Argentina, it is a National Historic Landmark. The building we see today is the sixth structure erected on the lot since the second founding of the city. In 1752, construction was begun on the current structure, its neoclassical facade was added in 1822 and ornamentation in the front, in 1860. In 1877 an aisle that houses the mausoleum of General José de San Martín (1778-1850)— liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru—was added.

#TIP In the Cathedral, there is a museum in honor of Pope Francis. On display are personal and liturgical objects he used during his 15 years as Archbishop of Buenos Aires.

15


Buenos Aires City Guide

CABILDO DE BUENOS AIRES Bolívar 65

4

It was the seat of the colonial administration, built in 1580. As the avenues were built around it, the building underwent successive modifications and reductions. Since 1938, the National Commission of Museums, Monuments and Sites, and the National Historical Museum of the Cabildo of Buenos Aires and the May Revolution operate here.

PALACIO DE GOBIERNO 5 Bolívar 1 Headquarters of the Executive Branch of the city government, it was built between 1891 and 1902. Its style is French academic with Italian elements.

LEGISLATURE OF THE CITY OF BUENOS AIRES

FORMER HEADQUARTERS OF CONGRESS

Perú and Hipólito Yrigoyen

Balcarce 139

6

In this building inspired by French Neoclassicism of the eighteenth century, the city legislature operates. Built between 1926 and 1931, it has a 97m-high tower with a four-faced chiming Westminster clock with thirty bells controlled from a wooden keyboard. The legislature has a library specialized in Argentine laws and jurisprudence, and a newspaper archive with the most important publications in the country since 1892.

7

In this building the House of Representatives and Senate met between 1864 and 1905. Its exterior was renovated, but inside its original furnishings and décor remain intact. Today, it is the National Academy of History.

#TIP In 1948 the meeting rooms of the former National Congress were restored by architect Estanislao Pirovano.

BICENTENNIAL MUSEUM Av. Paseo Colón 100

8

Previously the Aduana Taylor, named after the engineer that oversaw the construction of the main customs administrative offices, it is the heart of the port of Buenos Aires. The building was restored in 2011 and converted into the Bicentennial Museum, which offers visitors a tour of the history of Argentina from 1810 until today.

16


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

The Cabildo was the setting for the May Revolution of 1810, which led to the first national government.

17


Buenos Aires City Guide

MANZANA DE LAS LUCES

MUSEUM OF THE CITY Bolívar 412

9

Created in 1968, the museum preserves and shares the cultural heritage and customs of the city’s inhabitants knows as porteños. Its permanent collections are composed of the most varied objects: photographs, architectural elements, furniture, magazines and other items that reflect daily life. It consists of several buildings, including the Altos de Elorriaga and the Altos de Ezcurra, two of the oldest homes in the city.

Perú, Alsina, Bolívar and Moreno

JULIO ARGENTINO ROCA MONUMENT Diagonal Sur and Perú

COLEGIO NACIONAL DE BUENOS AIRES Bolívar 263

11

One of the most prestigious high schools in the city, it operates under the wing of the University of Buenos Aires. Its current structure built in 1918 was designed by the French architect Norberto Maillart.

Founded in 1904, it moved to its current location in 1927. It was named after its first director, a pioneer in leading archaeological expeditions in Argentina.

18

12

Julio Argentino Roca (18431914) was minister of war under President Nicolás Avellaneda, a position from which he commanded the military campaign known as the Conquest of the Desert, and was president of the Nation for two periods, 18801886 and 1898-1904. The statue is the work of Uruguayan sculptor José Zorrilla de San Martín, and was inaugurated in 1941.

SAN IGNACIO DE LOYOLA CHURCH

JUAN B. AMBROSETTI MUSEUM OF ETHNOGRAPHY Moreno 350

10

In 1633, the Jesuits settled on this site. Until their expulsion in 1767, they constructed numerous buildings, mainly for educational and cultural purposes. The name Manzana de las Luces refers to important educational and cultural establishments that functioned here for centuries. These buildings are among the oldest still standing in the city. You can visit the underground tunnels built in colonial times for defense and smuggling that run beneath the city block.

Bolívar 225

13

14

It is the oldest church standing in Buenos Aires. Construction began in 1686 using the wall of an existing church, and was the first structure built with bricks instead of adobe. The project, overseen by Jesuit architects, was completed in 1734.


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

OUR LADY OF THE ROSARY BASILICA AND SANTO DOMINGO CONVENT Av. Belgrano and Defensa

15

This Catholic church built in the mid-eighteenth century and declared a basilica in 1909 was the scene of the second British invasion, when British soldiers took possession of the premises. Behind the altar of the east side of the building, the flags taken from the British troops in 1807 are on display. In the atrium is the mausoleum that has held the remains of the hero Manuel Belgrano since 1903, the Spanish ironwork in colonial style is worth highlighting. Two emblems that Belgrano took from the Spanish royalist army and then offered up to the Virgin Mary are also displayed.

SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND CONVENT, SAN ROQUE CHAPEL Defensa and Alsina

16

This building was built between 1730 and 1754. In 1911 its facade was completely refurbished and given the Bavarian Baroque style it has today. The images of painted wood preserved inside the church date from the eighteenth century. Its stunning tapestry “The Glorification of San Francisco,� created by Horacio Butler, is considered one of the largest in the world.

#TIP It was the first church of the Franciscan order founded by St. Francis of Assisi. Pope Francis (baptized Jorge Bergoglio) chose his papal name in honor of this saint as a symbol and guide for his pontificate.

PLAZOLETA DE SAN FRANCISCO Adolfo Alsina 399 The four allegorical figures that stand here: Geography,

17

Navigation, Astronomy and Mechanics, originally formed part of the Mayo Pyramid, until 1972 when they were moved to this square.

19


Buenos Aires City Guide

BANCO DE LA NACIÓN ARGENTINA Rivadavia and 25 de Mayo

18

Between 1857 and 1888, this was the site of the first Colón Theater. In 1891, faced by a financial crisis, the Government established the bank to

CASA DE LINIERS

support farmers and ranchers, with state capital. The present building, designed by architect Alejandro Bustillo, with its stone facade, granite floors and paneled mahogany and cedar, was opened in 1944.

#TIP Banks are open to the public from 10:00am3:00pm, Monday thru Friday.

19

FORMER HEADQUARTERS OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY

FORMER CASA DE LA MONEDA

In this house, Santiago de Liniers, the second to last Viceroy of the Río de la Plata, lived between 1806 and 1809. The building dates from 1788 and is one of the oldest houses standing. Today it is the headquarters of the Directorate General of Heritage and the Historical Institute of the city government.

México 564 20 The National Library was created in 1810 by the first national government. Built in the Beaux-Arts style, it was designed by the Italian architect Carlos Morra. Here, between 1955 and 1973, the writer Jorge Luis Borges served as director of the National Library.

Defensa and México In 1775, the Mint for printing banknotes, postage stamps and treasury securities was built here. The current structure built in Italianate style opened in 1881 and housed the institution until 1944.

Venezuela 469

20

21


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

HOUSE OF CULTURE (FORMER HEADQUARTERS OF THE NEWSPAPER LA PRENSA) Av. De Mayo 575

22

Inaugurated in 1898, is one of the most magnificent buildings in the city. It housed the offices of the newspaper La Prensa until 1992. A year later, the Buenos Aires city government began restoring the building for the Casa de la Cultura. Exhibitions, shows and workshops are held on site. Today is also the headquarters of the Ministry of Culture of the city.

#TIP In the Casa de la Cultura’s courtyard, beginners and advanced dancers alike can enjoy free tango lessons.

MONUMENT TO QUIXOTE 23 Av. De Mayo and Lima, plazoleta Provincia de Misiones

The work of Andalusian sculptor Aurelio Teno, this monument was made in homage to the lead character of the classic novel written by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. It arrived in Buenos Aires in 1980, as a gift of the Spanish Government for the city’s 400th anniversary.

CASTELAR HOTEL Av. De Mayo 1152

24

This 1929 building is one of the most traditional hotels in Buenos Aires. It has a special mystique for being both the lodging Spanish poet Federico García Lorca chose as well as the as the seat of literary group El Signo, which brought together writers and artists such as Jorge Luis Borges, Norah Lange, Oliverio Girondo, Emilio Pettoruti and Lino Spilimbergo.

PLAZA DEL CONGRESO Av. Rivadavia, av. Entre Ríos, Luis Sáenz Peña and Hipólito Yrigoyen

25

This public square was designed by Carlos Thays, the French landscape architect responsible for the most important green spaces in the city. It was inaugurated during the 1910 centennial celebrations of the 1810 May Revolution of Independence. The monument “Dos Congresos” (Spanish for Two Congresses, evoking the Assembly of 1813 and the Congress of Tucumán 1816, where national independence was declared) are found here.

21


Buenos Aires City Guide

NATIONAL TANGO ACADEMY AND WORLD MUSEUM OF TANGO Av. De Mayo 833

26

Created in 1990 and chaired by poet and lyricist Horacio Ferrer, the Academy, in addition to administrative offices, is home to the World Tango Museum, an art gallery, the Superior Lyceum and lounges where dance classes are given.

PALACIO BAROLO Av. De Mayo 1370

27

Until the construction of the Kavanagh, this majestic 330 foot-high building, opened in 1923, was the tallest skyscraper in Buenos Aires. On the 22nd floor, there is a lighthouse with 300,000 lights. The work was commissioned by the Italian immigrant Luis Barolo from his compatriot Mario Palanti. Both men were admirers of Dante Alighieri and there are clear references in the

ornamentation of the building to the Divine Comedy, such as its general division into three parts, corresponding to hell, purgatory and heaven in the epic poem.

#TIP The Palacio Barolo, from whose dome can be seen a beautiful view of Buenos Aires, has a twin building in Montevideo, Uruguay.

LICEO THEATER Avenida Rivadavia 1495

28

It is the oldest of the city’s theaters. It opened in 1872 under the name of El Dorado and underwent several name changes until it adopted its current name in 1918. In 2006, it was fully restored, preserving the original structure and materials.

22

THEATERS OF THE COMMERCIAL CIRCUIT This theatrical tour focuses on Corrientes Avenue, near the Obelisk. These theaters offer spectators musicals, tango shows, revues and local adaptations of international works. Among the most important theaters are the Lola Membrives, National, Astral, La Plaza, Metropolitan and Ă“pera.


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY CORRIENTES AVENUE Along this avenue is the largest number of book stores, theaters, pizzerias and cafes in the city. Nicknamed “the street that never sleeps” for its vibrant nightlife, it witnessed the golden age of tango. In its bars, theaters and cabarets, the great musicians of the thirties, forties and fifties met.

NOTABLE BARS There are bars that because of their antiquity, architecture or local significance, are considered “notable” and officially form part of the city’s cultural heritage. Conversing with someone over a café “cortado” (a small coffee with a dash of milk) is a typical porteño ritual.

36 Billares

Bar Vidou

Av. De Mayo 1265

Diagonal Norte 858

American Bar

Boston City

Av. Roque Sáenz Peña 632

Florida 165, local 3

Bar El Colonial

Café Montserrat

Av. Belgrano 599

San José 524

Bar Iberia

Café Thibon

Av. De Mayo 1196

Montevideo 723

Bar Lavalle

Café Tortoni

Lavalle 1639

Av. De Mayo 825

23


Buenos Aires City Guide

Celta Bar

La Embajada

Petit Colon

Sarmiento 1701

Santiago del Estero 88

Libertad 505

Claridge’s

La Giralda

The Brighton

Tucumán 535

Av. Corrientes 1453

Sarmiento 645

Confitería del Hotel Castelar

La Puerto Rico

Victoria

Av. De Mayo 1048

Adolfo Alsina 416

Av. Entre Ríos 114

Confitería Ideal

Le Caravelle

Suipacha 384

Lavalle 726

El Gato Negro

London City

Av. Corrientes 1669

Av. De Mayo 599

El Querandí

Los Galgos

Perú 302

Av. Callao 501

Hotel Savoy

Mar Azul

Av. Callao 181

Tucumán 1700

#TIP Locals tend to eat dinner around 9:00pm-10:00pm. On weekends, many restaurants serve dinner until the wee hours of the night.

SHOPPING BOOK STORES AND MUSIC SHOPS Book and music lovers will find Paradise along Corrientes Avenue. In its book stores and music shops, visitors can buy old and new pieces, some one of a kind and others at a great price. It is ideal for an evening stroll as most of the stores close around 10:00pm.

24


HISTORIC BUENOS AIRES

The bar Los Galgos is a porte単o classic. It first opened its doors in 1930 and today, still retains much of its original architecture.

25


TANGO BUENOS AIRES La Boca San Telmo Balvanera Navigating the world of tango is to discover the local culture. In La Boca, San Telmo and Balvanera, the passion of this sensual dance permeates every corner of these neighborhoods. Whether strolling along Caminito, or through the streets of San Telmo, a visit to these neighborhoods’ alleyways, street corners, cafes and restaurants known as bodegones is inspiring. At night, make sure to go to a tango show or milonga, and dare yourself to step out onto the dancefloor to the 2/4 rhythm.

26

LA BOCA For many years, this neighborhood was a marshy area, populated by shacks and warehouses. In the midnineteenth century, port activity grew and La Boca became a maritime district. To cope with the flooding of the Riachuelo River, immigrants built their houses on stilts which they painted with leftover paint given away at the shipyards. Later, artists and bohemians came to live here, giving rise to this picturesque neighborhood, immortalized in the works of the artist Benito Quinquela MartĂ­n.


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

City buses Bus lines 29, 39, 46, 53, 64, 86, 97, 152, 168

CAMINITO/OPEN-AIR FINE ARTS MUSEUM “CAMINITO”

2 7

1

3

10

9

6

4

8 5

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS OF LA BOCA QUINQUELA MARTIN AND PEDRO DE MENDOZA SCHOOL

FUNDACIÓN PROA Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929

2

Space focused on the diffusion of contemporary art. It offers temporary exhibitions and organizes seminars, courses, conferences and concerts. On the terrace, visitors can enjoy a unique panoramic view of the Riachuelo River.

Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1835 3 In 1933, the artist Benito Quinquela Martín donated this land to the government for the construction of a school for children in La Boca. It was opened in 1936 with 18 murals inside the building. The Museo de Artistas Argentinos (Spanish for the Museum of Argentine Artists) has a collection of late nineteenth century and contemporary Argentine painters, and a collection of ship figureheads, unlike any other in Latin America. The third floor, formerly the artist’s home, is today the Benito Quinquela Martín Museum where his greatest works and personal objects are exhibited.

Caminito and av. Pedro de Mendoza

1

In the fifties, a local resident Arturo Carrega decided to reclaim a piece of land along which a narrow stream ran and, later, the train. To do this, he summoned the famous painter Quinquela Martín, who named this little street “Caminito” after the popular tango of Peñaloza and Filiberto. Over time, different artists contributed works to the alley. In 1959, it became the first pedestrian street of its kind in the world. Today, it is an open air museum, in addition to the works of street artists on sale, representing an iconic postcard of the city.

#TIP The Museum of Fine Arts of La Boca and Fundación Proa are not open to the public on Mondays.

27


Buenos Aires City Guide

SAN JUAN EVANGELISTA CHURCH Olavarría 486

4

Built in the late nineteenth century driven by the Salesian congregation. Its architecture is Romanesque, while the main facade is Greek style, the courtyard has Ionic columns. This is the site of the Museo de Memorias de San Juan Evangelista, which tells the history of the church and its faithful, and Italian immigrants that came to settle in the neighborhood.

LA USINA DEL ARTE Agustin R. Caffarena 1

5

An important renovation project made it possible to recover and revitalize the historical building of the former Italian-Argentine Electricity Company, converting it into

a new cultural space. Here you can enjoy music, art exhibitions, cinema, theater and dance. It has a space for symphonic concerts and another for chamber orchestras.

VUELTA DE ROCHA THE OLD NICOLÁS AVELLANEDA FERRY BRIDGE AND THE NEW NICOLÁS AVELLANEDA BRIDGE Av. Pedro de Mendoza and 6 av. Almirante Brown The two bridges dominate the mouth of the Riachuelo River, outlining the characteristic silhouette of the neighborhood. The old ferry bridge, which was declared a National Historic Landmark, is a colossal iron structure, opened in 1914.

28

Av. Pedro de Mendoza and Del Valle Iberlucea

7

In this small square, which simulates the deck of a boat, a monolith recalls Admiral Guillermo Brown, who installed a shipyard on the site to repair ships during the war with Brazil. In tribute, there is a bust by sculptor Julio C. Vergottini and a cannon that belonged to the Fragata May 25, a ship the admiral commanded.


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

PABLO DUCRÓS HICKEN FILM MUSEUM Agustín R. Caffarena 51

8

Created in 1971 to preserve and disseminate Argentina’s film heritage, the museum had several locations before moving here in 2011. It is mainly the private collection of Ducrós Hicken, an Argentine essayist, researcher and scholar who devoted much of his life to collect objects and testimonies tied to national cinema.

TEATRO DE LA RIBERA Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1821

9

Opened in 1971, thanks to a donation of Quinquela Martín. The theater, part of the Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires, has eight large murals by the artist. Today, it has a program of high quality alternative and experimental theater.

CLUB ATLÉTICO BOCA JUNIORS STADIUM Brandsen 805

10

Popularly nicknamed the Bombonera, the soccer stadium of Club Atlético Boca Juniors was inaugurated in 1940; the club was founded in 1905. Inside, a large mural done by the artists Benito Quinquela Martín depicts postcard-like scenes of the club and neighborhood. The Boca Museum outside the stadium invites visitors to relive the club’s passionate history through a multimedia tour, in a setting of souvenirs and trophies.

29


Buenos Aires City Guide

PLAZA DORREGO Humberto I and Defensa

SAN TELMO It is one of the oldest and most traditional neighborhoods of Buenos Aires; it forms part of the historic town and retains much of its rich architectural heritage. In the seventeenth century, the lives of the first settlers revolved around the port activity, which is why they chose San Pedro Gonz谩lez Telmo, patron of sailors, as the name of the neighborhood.

1

The site is known as Alto de las Carretas because it was here that people would tie their horse-drawn carriages and buggies. From 1822-1867, there was a market here and, in 1900, the square was given its current name. Today, it is famous for its antiques fair on Sundays.

19 3

16 13

17 14 1 18 15 11 9 10 8 12 2 5

20

4

7

6

MINISTRY OF AGRICULTURE, LIVESTOCK, FISHING AND FOOD Av. Paseo Col贸n 922

City buses Bus lines 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 54, 61, 62, 64, 86, 93, 126, 130, 143, 152, 159

30

2

This group of buildings designed to host the government entity represent an eclectic style with neo-Gothic influences that converge with monumental characteristics typical of public works of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

PARQUE LEZAMA Defensa, Brasil, av. Paseo Colón and av. Martín García

3

It is believed that the first settlement of the city in 1536 was on this land. It had several owners until it was acquired in 1857 by the merchant Gregorio Lezama, who hired European landscapers to design a luxurious garden for him. His widow sold it to the old Municipality of Buenos Aires with the condition that it would be turned into a public space named after her husband. The park has several sculptures, an amphitheater, a gazebo, a fountain and monument to Don Pedro de Mendoza, the first founder of Buenos Aires. In 2014, began works to put in value and restore its original luster.

EL VIEJO ALMACÉN Av. Independencia and Balcarce

4

This old house from the early eighteenth century was a provisions store for the Viceroyalty. Since 1969, it has been home to the popular tanguería, founded by tango singer Edmundo Rivero. Its name is inspired by Sentimiento gaucho, a song by lyricist Juan Andrés Caruso and musicians Rafael and Francisco Canaro.

#TIP El Viejo Almacén is the only place in town that still has hitching posts along its walls.

SCHOOL OF ENGINEERING OF THE UNIVERSITY OF BUENOS AIRES (UBA) Av. Paseo Colón 850

5

This neoclassic structure was originally built for Eva Perón’s non-profit organization, but she died before she could use the offices. After President Juan Domingo Perón was ousted from office in 1955, the building was remodeled and given to the University of Buenos Aires.

ODE TO LABOR MONUMENT Av. Paseo Colón 800

6

This sculptured group of figures by the Argentine artist Rogelio Yrurtia (1879-1950) symbolizes the effort of human labor in pursuit of progress.

31


Buenos Aires City Guide

DANISH CHURCH Carlos Calvo 257

8

This Church of the Lutheran Confession, a neo-Gothic style, was opened in 1931 thanks to contributions from the community of Danish immigrants in Buenos Aires.

EL SOLAR DE FRENCH GALLERY Defensa 1056

9

Patriot of the Revolution Domingo French lived on this site. The current neocolonial construction dates back to 1930 and it hosts several shops where visitors can buy handicrafts and souvenirs.

CASA MÍNIMA AND ZANJÓN DE GRANADOS Pasaje San Lorenzo 380, Defensa 755

7

Along this two-block alleyway, flanked by buildings from the second half of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth, is Casa Mínima; with just over 6.6 feet of front, it is the

narrowest building in the city. At Defense 755, is Zanjón de Granados, the pipeline of a stream that visitors can enter and explore. Here, the remains of a house dating back to the eighteenth century, along with other objects from the colonial era, were discovered.

CASA DE JUAN CARLOS CASTAGNINO Balcarce 1016

NUESTRA SEÑORA DE BELÉN CHURCH, SAN PEDRO GONZÁLEZ TELMO PARISH AND THE CLOISTER MUSEUM

HOME OF ESTEBAN DE LUCA

Humberto I 340

Carlos Calvo 385

11

One of the oldest churches in the city, its construction began in 1735. The cloisters were renovated in 2000 and converted into a museum. Many of the pieces in the collection are more than 200 years old.

32

10

This house from the late eighteenth century was the home of Mar del Plata painter and illustrator Juan Carlos Castagnino (1908-1972), one of the most important contemporary artists from Argentina. Among his most notable works is the illustrated edition of Martin Fierro, published in 1962.

In this late eighteenth century manor, Esteban de Luca, military officer, poet, journalist, and author of the patriotic march, Argentina’s first national song in 1810, lived.

12


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY Brasil 315

13

This Muscovite style church from the seventeenth century was opened in 1904. On top of each of the blue domes, there is a cross facing east, supported by chains, as is customary in Russia. The frontispiece mosaic was made in St. Petersburg and represents the Holy Trinity.

#TIP According to TripAdvisor, Buenos Aires was the most visited destination in Latin America in 2013.

ANTONIO BALLVÉ PENITENTIARY MUSEUM OF ARGENTINA Humberto I 378

14

The building, declared a National Historic Landmark, dates from 1760 and was designed by Italian architect Antonio Masella. The site was used successively as a hospital, an orphanage, a warehouse and women’s prison. In 1978, the Penitentiary Museum was located here, which displays uniforms, weapons, photographs and documents that relate the history of the country’s prisons. Furthermore, the building houses the oldest chapel in the city, which belonged to the Jesuits, dedicated to the Virgin Our Lady of Carmen, patron saint of Argentine prisons. The chapel dates back to 1734.

DR. GUILLERMO RAWSON SCHOOL (BUILDING OF THE FORMER PROTOMEDICATO HOSPITAL) Humberto I 343

15

This site was occupied by the Bethlemite brothers during the eighteenth century, when the magnolia trees at the entrance date were first planted. At the time of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata, a hospital and institution regulating medical practice called Protomedicato was installed here. The first school of medicine in Buenos Aires operated here between 1858 and 1887.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY Defensa 1600

16

It brings together a wide variety of objects that allow visitors to relive the history of Argentina. The collection includes works of art; religious images; flags, weapons and uniforms worn in the independence wars; items from prominent families of the nineteenth century; memorabilia from the centennial celebration of the May Revolution; and gaucho items.

33


Buenos Aires City Guide

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART OF BUENOS AIRES (MAMBA) Av. San Juan 350

17

Faithful exponent of nineteenthcentury English industrial constructions, this building was a tobacco warehouse. In 1980, it was acquired by the then Municipality of the City of Buenos Aires and in 1989 the headquarters of the museum, with a collection 7,000 works of art from the XX and XXI centuries, was moved here. The museum was restored and reopened in 2010.

CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM OF BUENOS AIRES (MACBA) Av. San Juan 328

18

Opened in 2012, it is one of the newest museums in the city. It has an important collection of works from national and international contemporary artists. In addition to the permanent collection, the museum organizes special exhibitions, events and educational workshops.

#TIP The two museums’ proximity make visiting both on the same day very practical but keep in mind that MAMBA is closed on Mondays and MACBA is closed on Tuesdays.

OLD CANALE FACTORY Av. Martín García 320 This art nouveau building, exponent of utilitarian industrial architecture, was the site of the traditional cookie factory Canale.

34

19

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF COSTUME Chile 832 20 In this typical nineteenthcentury stately home operates is an important collection of

pieces from the late eighteenth century to present day, reflecting the spirit of their creators and designers, as well as the cultural life of the local people.


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

BALVANERA In the nineteenth century, this neighborhood was considered a suburb of Buenos Aires. With the growth of the population and the installation of the railroad, it was incorporated into the city. In the early twentieth century, its streets attracted countless immigrants from different backgrounds: Jews, Arabs, Italians and Armenians, who moved there and left their mark. Tango is part of the identity of Balvanera; close to the Mercado de Abasto, lived some of the musicians who defined this genre: Aníbal Troilo, Osvaldo Pugliese and Carlos Gardel.

CARLOS GARDEL LANE AND MONUMENT Pasaje Carlos Gardel, between Anchorena and Jean Jaurès

9

1 5 2

6

4

1

In homage to Carlos Gardel (1890-1935), an icon of tango, who lived for several years in Balvanera, there is a monument erected in honor of the artist made by the sculptor Mariano Pagés from the province of San Juan; it was inaugurated in 2000.

8

CASA CARLOS GARDEL MUSEUM 7

City buses Bus lines 12, 24, 26, 37, 74, 79, 168

Jean Jaurès 735

3

Subway A, B, D and H

2

Opened in 2003, the museum operates in what was Carlos Gardel’s last home in Buenos Aires. He bought it in 1926 and lived here with his mother, Berta, until 1933, when he traveled to Paris. The building is typical of the era, a style called “casa chorizo” for the layout of the rooms along the length of an internal patio.

35


Buenos Aires City Guide

PALACIO DE AGUAS CORRIENTES Av. Córdoba, Riobamba, Viamonte and Ayacucho

3

This imposing building, a National Historic Landmark, was built in 1887 to house 12 water tanks with a capacity of 72 million liters, which were needed to supply the city. The project was led by British engineer John Bateman and the facade was designed by the Norwegian Olaf Boye.

PASAJE ZELAYA Pasaje Zelaya, between Agüero and Jean Jaurès

4

Some facades along this

PASEO DEL FILETE Jean Jaurès, between Tucumán and Lavalle

5

REGINA MARTYRUM CHURCH Hipólito Yrigoyen 2025

6

Fileteado is a typical decorative folk art of Buenos Aires from the early twentieth century used to adorn the horse-drawn carts; later in trucks and buses. Along this passageway, store fronts have been decorated by seasoned fileteadores (the name of the local artists trained in this art form).

A temple built in the late nineteenth century and designed by the first archbishop of Buenos Aires, Monsignor Mariano José de Escalada, as the seat of the Jesuits. Over time, the headquarters of the Metropolitan Seminary was moved here.

DEL SALVADOR CHURCH

to the church, the traditional Colegio del Salvador school has been operating since 1868. Here, Jorge Bergoglio— today Pope Francis—worked as a professor of literature and psychology during the 1960s.

Av. Callao 580

7

It was the second temple the Jesuits built in the city; its cornerstone was laid in 1870. It has valuable details of ornamentation and its bell towers are worth noting. Next

36

alleyway are decorated with Carlos Gardel’s lyrics, scores and portrait. They are the work of Argentine artist Marino Santa María.


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

The Palacio de Aguas Corrientes has 130 thousand bricks from Belgium and England.

37


Buenos Aires City Guide

PALACIO DEL CONGRESO DE LA NACIÓN Av. Entre Ríos, between Hipólito Yrigoyen and av. Rivadavia

8

It is home to the National Congress, the legislative branch of the government of Argentina. The construction of this late nineteenth century Italian academic style palace began in 1898. While it opened in 1906, the building was not completed until 1946. Its dome, which is 263-feet high, is one of the largest in city.

CIUDAD CULTURAL KONEX Sarmiento 3151

9

An old oil factory built in the twenties, it has since been converted into a cultural center. There are always new exhibitions, theater and music performances throughout the week and on weekends. For example, the show La Bomba de Tiempo, a percussion orchestra, is a classic Monday night event.

THE SILENT LANGUAGE OF TANGO Nod of the head. A subtle movement of the head that a man makes to invite a woman to dance. Holding the gaze. When a man looks at a woman and she holds his gaze, he knows that he can invite her to dance. The trip. Women sit along the dancefloor with their legs extended so that if a man walking by were to trip over them it would result in an invitation to dance.

38


TANGO BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY La Buena Medida Suárez 101

NOTABLE BARS Café de los Angelitos Av. Rivadavia 2100 At the tables of this cafe, the legendary Carlos Gardel used to meet up with his friends at the beginning of his career. In 1944, José Razzano composed a tango in tribute to the bar, “Café de los Angelitos,” with lyrics by Catullus Castillo. This coffeehouse became a meeting place for tango musicians, politicians, artists and athletes.

#TIP In a bar or restaurant, the general rule of thumb is to tip at least 10% of the bill amount. It is never included and is in addition to the cover charge (cubierto).

Operating since 1930, it has held onto the same spirit as the neighborhood and, over time, it is one of the genuine havens remaining in La Boca

Bar Plaza Dorrego Humberto I and Defensa

Bar Seddon Defensa 695

Bar Sur Estados Unidos 299

Británico Brasil 399

Café La Poesía Chile 502

Café Roma Olavarría 409

El Estaño 1880 Aristóbulo del Valle 1100

El Federal Carlos Calvo 599

El Hipopótamo Brasil 401

La Academia Av. Callao 368

La Perla Don Pedro de Mendoza 1899

39


Buenos Aires City Guide

SHOPPING ABASTO SHOPPING Av. Corrientes 3200 Between 1907 and 1984, the city’s wholesale fruit and vegetable market ‘Mercado de Abasto’ operated there. In 1998, it was renovated and turned into an important shopping mall, with cinemas, a children’s museum, stores, a food court and a game area.

#TIP Shops are usually open between 9am and 10:00am and close around 8:00pm. Shopping malls are open from 10:00am-8:00pm.

ONCE Between av. Corrientes and av Rivadavia, av. Pueyrredón and Pasteur street It is one of the larger open-air shopping districts in the city, where Argentines from around the country come to buy fabric, clothing, related items. Shoppers can find very low prices, but most businesses are dedicated to wholesale.

40


g in th e m o s s y a lw a ’s re The to enjoy in the city.

Edición Buenos Aires + Edición Córdoba

41


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES Recoleta Retiro

As one walks through these neighborhoods it is easy to understand why Buenos Aires is nicknamed “the Paris of South America.� Its palaces and manor houses, its luxury hotels, historic buildings and beautiful squares make this area one of the most sophisticated of Buenos Aires. Architecture lovers will not want to miss this circuit including emblematic works of neoclassicism and Art Nouveau. The refinement of its historic infrastructure is combined with modern buildings and an exquisite offer of culture, cuisine and entertainment.

42

RECOLETA Its name derives from the monastery of the Recollect friars, who settled in this area in the early eighteenth century. Around 1870, the richest families in the south of the city moved to this area to distance themselves from the epidemics o f c h o l e ra a n d ye l l ow feve r. They built their Parisian-inspired residences and palaces, which have a sophisticated air.


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

16 18

17

8

10

3

9 13

1 5 15

2 14 7

19

City buses

Metrobus

Bus lines 17, 61, 62, 67, 92, 93, 10,

9 de Julio

37, 38, 41, 59, 60, 95, 101, 102, 108, 118, 124, 130

Subway

6

12

11 4

NUESTRA SEテ前RA DEL PILAR BASILICA Junテュn 1892

1

Its facade respects the classicist principles with a double belfry on the right side, unique in the city. In the small church museum, there are several elements of worship of the first Recollect monks who inhabited the area and gave name to the neighborhood.

D

PLAZA FRANCIA Av. Del Libertador 1450

2

An extensive green space to rest and enjoy fresh air between walks. The central monument in the square is called France to Argentina, made by the French sculptor Edmond Peynot, donated by the French community to the city for the centennial of the May Revolution.

43


Buenos Aires City Guide

RECOLETA CEMETERY Junín 1720

3

Designed by French engineer Próspero Catelin and built in 1822, it was the first public cemetery in the city. Many of the vaults and mausoleums adorned with marble and sculptures are works by famous architects. More than 90 of these vaults have been declared National Historic Landmarks. In them, many of the major figures in Argentina’s history, including Eva Peron, presidents, writers, Nobel laureates and popular figures, have been laid to rest here.

RECOLETA CULTURAL CENTER Junín 1930 This was the monastery of the Recollect monks. Today, it hosts numerous cultural activities, from art exhibitions to concerts and theater performances. It features openair concerts, presentations and other cultural events.

MUSEUM OF PUBLIC TELEVISION Av. Figueroa Alcorta 2977 In the same building as the state-owned television station, there is a museum that tells the history of television in Argentina, from its inception until today. The building was built as part of the works in preparation for the 1978 World Cup held in Argentina.

44

4

#TIP On the terraces of the Recoleta Cultural Center are bars and restaurants for a drink outdoors, overlooking the city parks.

5


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

FLORALIS GENÉRICA Av. Figueroa Alcorta 2451

6

This imposing 65.6 foot-high sculpture of stainless steel and aluminum, which dominates the United Nations square, was donated to the city by its author, the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. It is the first sculpture in motion controlled by a hydraulic system and photoelectric cells, so that its petals open during the day and close when the sun goes down.

UBA LAW SCHOOL Av. Figueroa Alcorta 2263

7

This imposing building inspired by the Doric style has no other decoration than its monumental structure, with an area of 430.600 ft2. It has been the Law School of the University of Buenos Aires since 1949.

UBA SCHOOL OF ENGINEERING Av. Las Heras 2214

8

It is commonly believed that the neo-Gothic building at Las Heras Avenue and AzcuĂŠnaga Street is a church. However, it is one of the sites of the school of Engineering of the University of Buenos Aires. Until 1950 the Law School operated here, reflected in the stained glass windows with the symbol of the scales of justice.

45


Buenos Aires City Guide

PLAZA EVITA AND THE EVITA MONUMENT Av. Del Libertador 1650

9

The monument to Maria Eva Duarte de Peron stands at the bottom of the hill. Inaugurated in 1999, it is the work of the Argentine sculptor Ricardo Gianetti. In the square there is also the monument to Pope John Paul II, made by Polish sculptor Stanislaw Slonina.

NATIONAL LIBRARY Agüero 2502

10

The institution was founded in 1811 thanks to the initiative of Mariano Moreno. It has had several venues. The current one was designed by the architects Clorindo Testa, Francisco Bullrich and Alicia Cazzaniga. The library’s collection includes nearly two million books; its newspaper library is the largest in Latin America and the Treasure Room contains valuable volumes from the XV, XVI and XVII centuries.

PLAZA REPÚBLICA ORIENTAL DEL URUGUAY Av. Figueroa Alcorta, Tagle, 11 av. Del Libertador and Austria In the center of this square is the monument to General José Gervasio Artigas (17641850). The bronze bas-reliefs

46

#TIP From the Reading Room on the fifth floor, there is an amazing view of the parks, Libertador Avenue and the river.

PLAZA RUBÉN DARÍO AND PASEO DE LAS ESCULTURAS (SCULPTURE PARK) Av. Del Libertador, Agüero and Austria

represent Liberty and the Federation, and the four bronze faucets symbolize the four rivers: Río de la Plata, Uruguay, Paraná and Paraguay.

12

The public square honors the famous Nicaraguan poet. The monument, designed by Argentine sculptor José Fioravanti, was erected in 1967, on the centennial of the writer’s birth. The sculpture park is an initiative of the Ministry of Culture of the City of Buenos Aires, which seeks to recover public space through art.


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS

PLAZA MITRE Av. Del Libertador 1550

13

This square honors Bartolomé Mitre (1821-1906), who was president of Argentina between 1862 and 1868, and founder of the newspaper La Nación. On the other side of the hill, at the Gelly y Obes circle, there are a number of French-style residences, including the British Embassy.

PALACIO NACIONAL DE LAS ARTES Posadas 1725

15

This building from 1911, formerly the Palais de Glace, which housed an ice rink and a social club, was also once a tango ballroom. In the

14 Av. Del Libertador 1473 Its permanent collection includes over 2,000 pieces, with works of art from the Middle Ages to the twentieth century. Some of the most notable pieces include sculptures from the romantic and gothic period, including works of Tiepolo, El Greco, Goya, Rodin, Manet, Monet, Van Gogh, Degas, De Chirico, Kandinsky, Picasso and Argentine artists Morel, Pueyrredón, De la Cárcova, Quinquela Martín, Berni and Seguí, among others. In addition, be sure to check for information about temporary exhibits.

#TIP Before becoming the NMFA, the building was the Pump House for the Sanitation Office, built in 1870.

early 1930s, it was renovated by architect Alejandro Bustillo and turned it into an exhibition hall.

#TIP The city’s oldest rubber tree, which was planted at the end of the eighteenth century, still stands today in the public square Intendente Alvear.

47


Buenos Aires City Guide

XUL SOLAR MUSEUM Laprida 1212

16

The house of Argentine artist Xul Solar was restructured by his family for its use as a museum. Visitors can enjoy this eccentric and brilliant artist’s works from the different periods of his painting, as well as personal objects, games and documents.

PATIO DEL LICEO

MUSEUM OF THE SHOAH-FOUNDATION FOR THE HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Montevideo 919 Through objects, images and words, the life of Jews in Argentina and in Europe before and during World War II are put on display. Among other things, there is a collection of photographs of German Heinz Jöst from 1941 in the Warsaw ghetto on display.

Av. Santa Fe 2729

17

18

New pole of the hipster culture was formerly an all-girls school built in the nineteenth century. Today, it is a space of shops and art galleries, bookstores, a nursery, and even a shop dedicated to the occult sciences.

PARQUE CARLOS THAYS Av. Del Libertador and av. Callao This green space of approximately 48.400 ft2 was named after French landscape architect Carlos Thays, the person who designed the city’s most beautiful parks. Until 1990, this was the site of the Italpark amusement park.

48

19


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

The Nuestra Señora del Pilar Basílica was named a national historic monument in 1942.

49


Buenos Aires City Guide

RETIRO Toward the end of the seventeenth century, the governor of Buenos Aires, Agustín de Robles, built a cottage here and called it El Retiro, which ushered in the development of the district. In 1801, a bullring was erected here, which then served as the stables of the Horse Grenadiers Regiment. Over time, this area gained prominence as a hub and busiest area of the city.

4 2

6 7

1

3 9

5

11

10

Av. Santa Fe, av. Del Libertador, Florida and Crucero Belgrano

8

City buses Bus lines 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 28, 33, 45, 50, 51,

Metrobus 9 de Julio

54, 56, 61, 62, 70, 75, 91, 92, 93, 100, 101, 106, 108, 115, 126, 129, 130, 132, 143, 150, 152, 195

Subway C

50

PLAZA SAN MARTÍN 1

In 1807, a battle was fought here against the English invaders which resulted in the Creole victory. In 1812, General San Martín used the square to prepare the troops for the campaigns of Independence; for this reason it was named in his memory in 1878. In this park is the monument to General San Martín and the Armies of Independence; and the cenotaph to the Fallen in Malvinas. The names of 649 soldiers, who lost their lives in the battle waged by the sovereignty of the islands in 1982, are engraved on the black granite plates.


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

CÍRCULO MILITAR (PAZ PALACE) Av. Santa Fe 750

2

José C. Paz, journalist and Argentine politician, founder of the newspaper La Prensa, commissioned the construction of this palace as a family residence, which opened in 1914. In 1938, the palace was acquired as headquarters of the Military Circle, an Army club, and the Museum of Weapons of the Nation.

CENTRO NAVAL BUILDING Florida 801

4

The headquarters of the Naval Center is one of the leading exponents of Beaux Arts in Buenos Aires. Among other things, the art nouveau portal made in iron and bronze cast from old cannons used in the struggle for national independence stands out.

PALACIO SAN MARTÍN Arenales and Esmeralda

3

The palace was built in the early twentieth century for the Anchorena family, who resided here until the thirties. In 1936, it was acquired by the national government

for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Worship. Today, the ministry’s ceremonial functions are held here. Its administrative offices moved to a modern building on the opposite corner in 1998.

SANTÍSIMO SACRAMENTO BASILICA

NATIONAL PARKS BUILDING

San Martín 1035

Av. Santa Fe 690

Built at the request of Mercedes Castellanos de Anchorena, a porteña aristocrat, on her property. It was consecrated in 1916. Its eclectic style is inspired by the Cathedral of Angouleme, France.

5

6

This neo-Gothic petit hotel was built around 1880 for the Haedo and Villar family. By 1937 it was acquired by Banco Popular, in 1942, sold it to the national parks service.

51


Buenos Aires City Guide

KAVANAGH BUILDING Florida 1065

PLAZA FUERZA AÉREA ARGENTINA AND MONUMENTAL TOWER

7

Opened in 1936, it was the tallest skyscraper in Latin America and the largest reinforced concrete structure in the world. Rationalist style tower was built by the architects Sánchez, Lagos and De la Torre, at the request of Corina Kavanagh, a wealthy city dweller. In 1998 UNESCO declared the building a World Heritage Site of Modern Architecture.

Av. Del Libertador, San Martín, 8 Gilardo Gilardi and av. Dr. José Ramos Mejía Originally called the British Square in honor of the English residents who built the Torre Monumental, it is also known as the Torre de los Ingleses (English Tower). In 1982, during the Malvinas War, the name of the square was changed to honor the Argentine Air Force.

ISAAC FERNÁNDEZ BLANCO HISPANICAMERICAN ART MUSEUM Suipacha 1422 The headquarters of the museum is the former Palacio Noel, built in 1920 by architect Martín Noel. The main house contains collections that offer a rich panorama of the arts from the colonial period, a pinacotheca (art gallery) in which the Cuzco School is worth noting and a specialized library.

RAÚL SCALABRINI ORTIZ NATIONAL RAILWAY MUSEUM Av. Del Libertador 405

10

This museum operates in the old cargo terminal of the Retiro train station. It has one of the most important historical railway collections in the Americas. Its collection offers visitors a journey through the development of railways, model cars, locomotives and signaling elements used since the arrival of the train to Argentina over 150 years ago.

52

9

#TIP In summer months, outdoor shows are performed in the museum’s gardens of Spanish inspiration.

MARQ ART AND DESIGN MUSEUM Av. Del Libertador 999

11

Opened in 2000, it is the first museum of Argentine architecture. It offers exhibitions related to architecture and creative industries like graphic design, industrial design, image, sound, textiles and apparel. The building built in 1915 is the former water tower to supply the Retiro railway station.


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY NOTABLE BARS La Biela Av. Quintana 596 Iconic café in Recoleta and one of the oldest notable bars in the city.

Bar O Bar Tres Sargentos 415

Bar del Hotel Alvear Av. Alvear 1891

Café Retiro Terminal station former-Mitre Line, Ramos Mejía 1384

Café Tabac Av. Del Libertador 2300

Clásica and Moderna Av. Callao 892

Confitería Saint Moritz Esmeralda 894

Florida Garden Florida 899

La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo Paraguay 1500

Plaza Bar Florida 1005

53


Buenos Aires City Guide

SHOPPING BA Design Pueyrred贸n 2501 A shopping mall specialized in design and decoration.

#TIP Look for the Tax Free symbol at participating stores and request reimbursement of VAT tax on the purchase of domestically produced goods leaving the country.

FLORIDA STREET From Diagonal Norte up to Marcelo T. de Alvear This long pedestrian street is lined with shops geared toward tourists. Visitors will find leather garments, sweaters, souvenirs and other typical Argentine products.

SANTA FE AVENUE From Cerrito up to av. Sarmiento Visitors will find the greatest variety of clothing stores, footwear, bazaars and bookstores.

#TIP The Ateneo bookstore on Santa Fe is in the building of the former movie theater Grand Splendid. Not to be missed!

54

Patio Bullrich Av. Del Libertador 750 Visitors will find the most exclusive brands, a food court and cinemas all under the single roof of this historic neoclassical building.


ELEGANT BUENOS AIRES

PLAZA INTENDENTE ALVEAR CRAFT FAIR Pueyrredón 2500 A craft fair open on weekends and holidays. This park is popularly known as Plaza Francia.

ALVEAR AVENUE Arguably, the most elegant street in the area, it is lined with a wide selection of highend shops and art galleries.

GALERÍAS PACÍFICO San Martín, av. Córdoba, Florida and Viamonte It is one of the main shopping centers of the city, worth visiting for its for its magnificent dome, decorated with murals of outstanding Argentine painters: Antonio Berni, Lino Enea Spilimbergo, Demetrio Urruchúa and Juan Carlos Castagnino.

55


NEW BUENOS AIRES CONVENTION CENTER Located in Recoleta, the city’s new convention center will open its doors in 2015. With three underground levels, the building will have multiple spaces for conferences and events. Equipped with solar panels on the outside to generate energy, the building meets the city’s highest sustainability standards. Located in a strategic location, the project includes a future subway station (Line H), green spaces and several bus stops.

56


57


MODERN BUENOS AIRES Puerto Madero It is one of the youngest neighborhoods in the city. Its old red-brick docks, which were the grain and oil warehouses, are now modern offices, which co-exist in harmony with the cutting-edge design and architecture of the buildings across the waterway. Running the entire length of the four docks, it is one of the most exclusive dining and tourist centers, in a unique setting along the city’s waterfront.

58

PUERTO MADERO In the late nineteenth century, the decision was made to invest in suitable port infrastructure for the city. The project was led by Eduardo Madero, who decided to locate the port in the vicinity of the Plaza de Mayo. The works were inaugurated in 1897, and later the red-brick dock warehouses that symbolize the neighborhood were built. Between 1911 and 1930, the new port, known today as Puerto Madero, was built.


MODERN BUENOS AIRES

7

5

19

1 6

4

13

8

12 11

9

18

2 17 3 14 10 15 20 16

DOCKS 1, 2, 3 AND 4 1

City buses Bus lines 2, 9, 10, 20, 22, 24, 25, 28, 29, 33, 46, 53, 54, 61, 64, 86, 93, 126, 142, 143, 152, 159

When all the city’s port activity was concentrated in this area, boats unloaded their goods, mainly cereals and grains, on the west bank of the docks, and they were loaded on the opposite bank of the warehouses. The swing bridges made it possible for vessels to pass from one dock to another through traps.

59


Buenos Aires City Guide

PUENTE DE LA MUJER Dock 3, between Juana Gorriti 2 and Pierina Dealessi This pedestrian bridge, designed by the Catalan architect and engineer Santiago Calatrava, was opened in December 2001. Its design was inspired by a couple dancing tango. It has a central section that swings open to allow vessels to pass through. It was built entirely in Spain and brought to Argentina in parts, and then assembled on site.

MICAELA BASTIDAS PARK Av. Calabria, Julieta Lanteri and Rosario Vera Peñaloza

4

The park was opened in early 2003 and covers an area of 5.4 hectares. Paths and staircases connect the different sectors: Plaza del Huerto, Plaza de los Niños and Plaza del Sol.

NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LA ESPERANZA CHURCH Rosario Vera Peñaloza and Aimé Painé

MUJERES ARGENTINAS PARK Juana Manso 800

3

This park pays tribute to the great Argentine women, whose names are on every street in Puerto Madero. It has a large central square and different

60

levels that offer a panoramic view of the area. This young grove is planted with flowering Jacaranda, Araucaria, Magnolia and Rosewood, all typical specimens of Argentine flora.

5

This church was opened in 1994 and was the first building completed as part of the recovery project of the area. It has elements of Romanesque style, like its brick walls and wooden ceilings that mimic the port’s architecture.


MODERN BUENOS AIRES

COSTANERA SUR ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550

6

At the beginning of the twentieth century, this was where the municipal beach functioned, making it a popular recreation spot along the city’s waterfront. In 1978, a development project was initiated to expand the city, so that about 350 hectares of the coast were filled. Finally, the project was canceled and the river was abandoned. Many plant and animal species inhabited these lands, which transformed it into a rich nature reserve. In 1986, this area was designated as an ecological reserve and became a protected area, open to visitors.

ERNESTO DE LA CÁRCOVA MUSEUM OF REPRODUCTIONS AND COMPARATIVE SCULPTURE Av. España 1701

7

It is the largest collection in South America of cast copies of famous works. The methodology used involves the use of special molds taken from the original piece, producing reproductions with a maximum degree of fidelity to the original even in the smallest details.

DE LAS NEREIDAS FOUNTAIN Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1600

8

The work of Argentine sculptor Lola Mora was inaugurated in 1903. Originally conceived for the Plaza de Mayo, it was considered unseemly and was relocated to Puerto Madero. Dolores “Lola” Mora Vega (1867-1936)—an extremely talented and controversial artist at the time—was one of the first sculptors to have her works located in Puerto Madero.

61


Buenos Aires City Guide

PÉRGOLA 9 Azucena Villaflor and av. De los Italianos Before the 1970s, when the coast was filled, the pergola was a prime spot where people would gather to enjoy a view of the Río de la Plata. There are several works around this semicircular passage, including monuments to Luis Viale, Vito Dumas, and the Coast Guard.

BUENOS AIRES MUSEUM CENTER (FORMER MUNICH BREWERY) Av. De los Italianos 851

10

Until 1970 this was the Munich Brewery, a majestic work of Andrés Kálnay, which from the moment of its inauguration in 1927 was a highlight of Buenos Aires. Later it housed the Museum of Telecommunications and, in 2002, it became the Buenos Aires Museum Center, which organizes exhibitions, shows and workshops. It is also the location of the Museum of Humor, which includes Argentina humorous works and is chaired by a committee of five notable comedians: Quino, Garaycochea, García Ferré, Sábat and Mordillo.

TANGO MONUMENT Azucena Villaflor and av. De los Italianos

#TIP Opera performances, boleros and other shows are organized in the auditorium of the basement of the former Munich Brewery.

11

This monument by sculptor Stela Trebino and engineer Alejandro Coria pays tribute to the most emblematic musical genre of Buenos Aires City. It was inaugurated on November 22, 2007, in celebration of the Day of Music.

FANGIO MONUMENT Azucena Villaflor, between Juana Manso and Aimé Painé

12

This work honors Argentine five-time Formula 1 champion Juan Manuel Fangio. It depicts the race car driver with his silver arrow, a Mercedes-Benz W196, the car he drove to victory several times.

62


MODERN BUENOS AIRES

ARA PRESIDENTE SARMIENTO

SCHOONER ARA URUGUAY

Juana Gorriti 1000, between 13 Azucena Villaflor and Macacha Güemes, Dock 3 This museum ship, which made its maiden voyage in 1897, was one of the most advanced of its time. The ship was named after the founder of the Argentine naval school, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (1811-1888). Between 1889 and 1938, it made 37 voyages around the world, and until 1960 it worked as a training ship in national waters.

Juana Gorriti 400, Dock 4

IMMIGRATION MUSEUM Av. Antártida Argentina 1355

15

It is the museum of the former Hotel of Immigrants,

14

Built in England in 1874, it is the oldest Argentina ship still afloat. In 1903 it became world famous for a feat of its captain Julián Irízar, who rescued the members of the Swedish expedition whose ship was wrecked on the ice of the South Pole. In 1960, it was turned into a museum.

which operated between 1911 and 1953. The record books of the arrival of immigrants to the country form part of its collection.

YACHT CLUB ARGENTINO Cecilia Grierson and Costanera Sur

16

This building was designed by French architect Eduardo Le Monnier in 1911, as the institution’s headquarters, whose origins date back to 1883, with the birth of nautical sports.

SILOS OF THE FORMER JUNTA NACIONAL DE GRANOS Dock 3

17

The silos were authorized in 1903, along with warehouses and mills that comprised the first infrastructure of the port of Buenos Aires. Inside, grains were stored until being shipped out.

63


Buenos Aires City Guide

FAENA ARTS CENTER Aimé Painé 1169

18

Located in the old engine room of one of the first large mills in the country, it was rebuilt respecting all the representative elements of industrial building in the early twentieth century. The center’s exhibition program is renowned for its experimental, international and dynamic aspects.

FINE ARTS PAVILION OF THE CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1300, Dock 2

19

Located in the Santa María Building of the Argentine Catholic University, this multidisciplinary space for art and culture is also space for the creation of art. Its mission is to establish an environment for knowledge and the dissemination of the arts.

AMALIA LACROZE DE FORTABAT ART COLLECTION Olga Cossettini 141

20

The building that houses the art collection of Amalia Fortabat, a well-known Argentine entrepreneur, was designed by Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly. The Fortabat collection includes works by renowned Argentine and foreign artists, such as works by Pieter Breughel, William Turner and the collector’s portrait done by Andy Warhol.

64


MODERN BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY Puerto Madero is one of the most important gastronomic centers of the city. All along the main street Alicia Moreau de Justo, in the old docks of the port of Buenos Aires, there are well-known grills serving up Argentine barbecue, as well as many international restaurants.

Sorrento Alicia Moreau de Justo 410

Madero Tango Alicia Moreau de Justo and Brasil

#TIP At lunchtime, restaurants offer a fixed price menu that includes an entree, drink and dessert at an affordable price.

65


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES Palermo If anything distinguishes Palermo, it is that in its entirety, this neighborhood’s style is unique and original. The neighborhood has an aristocratic area, enclosed by Libertador Avenue and the thick woods of its parks, known as Palermo Chico. Along the surrounding blocks of Plaza Cortázar is Palermo Viejo, known for its shops of clothing designers, furniture and objects on display. Between Juan B. Justo, Santa Fe, Córdoba, and Dorrego is the area known as Palermo Hollywood, which owes its name to the concentration of TV and film producers in this neighborhood in recent years.

66

PALERMO The birth of this district is linked with Don Juan Manuel de Rosas, who acquired the land for his residence around 1836. Following these turbulent years, the property was home to the School of Arts and Crafts, the Military Academy and the Naval Academy. On November 11, 1875 Sarmiento’s initiative came to fruition and the Tres de Febrero Park was inaugurated. Soon after, the Botanical Garden and the Zoo were also opened.


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

GALILEO GALILEI PLANETARIUM Av. Sarmiento and Belisario Roldán

1

It is the main center for disseminating astronomy in the city. Almost 8900 stars, planets and satellites of the universe can be seen on its 66-foot diameter dome from any of the 360 reclining seats in its hemispherical projection room. In addition, thematic documentary films are shown, thanks to an immersive technology that allows visitors to enjoy striking realism, color, definition and movement.

#TIP “The planetarium is for everyone” program allows visually impaired people to enjoy an auditory and tactile experience, through a recording set to music so they too can experience the night-time sky.

TRES DE FEBRERO PARK (THE WOODS OF PALERMO) Av. Sarmiento and av. Del Libertador

2

With over 80 hectares, this is one of the largest parks in Buenos Aires. Construction began in 1874 spearheaded by President Domingo F. Sarmiento, and it was inaugurated in 1875 by President Nicolás Avellaneda. Starting in 1892, Frenchman Carlos Thays, the most recognized landscape architect in Argentina between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, oversaw numerous reforms and

expansion projects. The park, popularly known as the Palermo woods (Bosques de Palermo), has a variety of plant heritage, a combination of native flora with others from around the world, four artificial lakes, a rose garden with more than 12,000 specimen and numerous works of art, recognized with international awards.

67


Buenos Aires City Guide

18

7

16 13

11

20

8 12

2

9

10

6 5 4 3

1

17

68

PLANETARIO

14


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

Metrobus

City buses Bus lines 12, 15, 29, 36, 37, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 64, 67, 68, 93, 95, 102, 108, 111, 118, 124, 128, 130, 152, 160, 161, 166, 188

Juan B. Justo

Subway D

MUSEUM OF LATIN AMERICAN ART (MALBA) Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415

19

15

3

This private museum, which belongs to Costantini Foundation, was opened in 2001. Its collection includes about 400 works by leading modern and contemporary artists from the region. It offers film festivals, as well as literature and design lecture series, performing an important educational role open to the entire community.

EDUARDO SĂ?VORI MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Av. Infanta Isabel 555

PARQUE EXTREMO

PARQUE EXTREMO

4

This picturesque house, located opposite the Rose Garden of Palermo, contains a collection of Argentine art: textiles, paintings, sculptures, prints and drawings. The earliest works date back to the late nineteenth century; more recent pieces have bene added to the museum’s collection through the Manuel Belgrano Prize, an event that recognizes artists from around the country.

69


Buenos Aires City Guide

JOSÉ HERNÁNDEZ MUSEUM OF POPULAR ART Av. Del Libertador 2373

#TIP 5

A tour of the museum offers visitors a broad view of the crafts of local artisans. Magnificent native crafts, indigenous and urban alike, made by renowned Argentine artisans are exhibited. One of the highlights is a one-ofa-kind collection of Creole silverware, which demonstrates the work of the main River Plate goldsmiths from the mid-nineteenth century. The exhibition of the works of the great sculptor Hermógenes Cayo, considered the Leonardo Puna of Argentina, is the largest in the country. The building was conceived as petit hotel in the early twentieth century.

If you like extreme sports, there are BMX and skate clinics in parks in Costanera, Belgrano, Palermo, Caballito, Mataderos and Villa Lugano.

JAPANESE GARDEN Av. Casares 3401

6

Still today one of the most calm and relaxing places in the city, the grounds were opened in 1967 on the visit of the Emperor of Japan Akihito and his wife Michiko. In 1977 it was redesigned under the direction of landscape engineer Yasuo Inomata. In the park there is a building that houses a cultural center, a restaurant serving Japanese cuisine, a nursery and a store of Japanese crafts.

EVITA MUSEUM Lafinur 2988

BUENOS AIRES BOTANICAL GARDEN Av. Santa Fe 3951

7

Opened in 1898, the grounds were designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays, creator of the layout of some of the most important green spaces in Buenos Aires. It occupies an area of over seven hectares, home to some 6,000 plant species, a botany library, three

70

distinct landscape gardening styles, a herbarium and five greenhouses—the largest of which is in the Art Nouveau style and received recognition at the World Expo Paris of 1900—a large collection of sculptures and a English style house, used for art exhibitions and workshops.

8

In a building from the early twentieth century, the museum offers a journey through the life and work of Eva Duarte (19191952), wife of former Argentine President Juan Domingo Perón, through the use of modern museology techniques.


Buenos Aires is the first LGBTIQ (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Intersex and Queer) tourist destination in Latin America and one of the five largest in the world, according to the World Tourism Organization. Here, there is the Equal Marriage Act which gives LGBTIQ couples the same rights and access to social services as the rest of the community. In 2010, the National Congress approved samesex marriage, which made Argentina the first country in Latin America to have such legislation. In addition, the Law on Gender Identity, which recognizes the right to self-perceived gender identity, was approved in 2012. Moreover, in 2012, Buenos Aires City Government approved a regulation allowing same sex and opposite sex foreigner couples to get married while visiting the city. For requirements, visit: www.buenosaires.gob.ar

71


Buenos Aires City Guide

AUTOMOBILE CLUB OF ARGENTINA (ACA) Av. Del Libertador 1850

9

The permanent collection within the walls of this rationalist building include vehicles in excellent condition from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Also on display are the cars driven by some of the greatest Argentine motorists. The museum is located on the first floor of the headquarters of the Automobile Club of Argentina.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS

LA RURAL, BUENOS AIRES FAIRGROUNDS Av. Santa Fe and av. Sarmiento

Av. Del Libertador 1902

11

10

This museum, dedicated to European and Oriental decorative arts, includes works by El Greco, Corot, Fragonard, Manet, Boudin and Fantin-Latour. It also contains sculptures, porcelain pieces, ceramics, metalwork, tapestries, books, collectible books, weapons and a remarkable collection of miniature portraits. The French neoclassical building was the former residence of the ErrĂĄzuriz-Alvear family, which was built in the early twentieth century and declared a National Historic Landmark in 1997.

In 1866, the Sociedad Rural Argentina (Spanish for the Argentine Rural Association) was founded to encourage the development of the country’s agricultural heritage. In 1875, the state allocated 12 hectares for the construction of its fairgrounds, where, since 1878, the Rural Exhibition is held every year. Declared a National Historic Landmark, today La Rural is the main exhibition space of the country and the region.

REY FAHD ISLAMIC CULTURAL CENTER Av. Bullrich 55 Opened in 2000, this mosque can accommodate 1500 male worshipers on the ground floor and 500 women on the second floor. It has a library with large capacity and an exhibition hall, an auditorium, an administrative area, with rooms where various courses are offered, including Arabic language.

72

12

SARMIENTO THEATER Av. Sarmiento 2715

13

In 2000, the theater began presenting mainly productions of artists representing the latest stage arts trends. It became the only theater dedicated to theatrical experimentation of the five theaters that comprise the network known as the Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires.


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

ARGENTINE POLO FIELD Av. Del Libertador and av. Dorrego

14

Argentine polo players and polo horses are considered the best in the world. Known as the Polo Cathedral, the main Argentine field was inaugurated in 1928. Its stands have a capacity for 30,000 spectators and the stadium is also used for other sports and entertainment. Every year in November, the Argentine Polo Open, the most important tournament on the sport’s international calendar, is held here.

HIPÓDROMO ARGENTINO DE PALERMO

BUENOS AIRES ZOO

Av. Del Libertador 4101

Opened in 1888, it is one of the few zoos in the world that remain today from that era. Its Victorian pavilions were declared a National Historic Landmark. It has more than 2,500 animals including mammals, reptiles and birds. Its aquarium, reptile house, bat house and subtropical forest walk through are other highlights.

Av. Sarmiento and av. Las Heras

15

Horse racing is a very popular sport among locals. The racetrack was inaugurated in 1876 and its 1.4-mile sandy track is one of the longest in the world. It has four stands: the Official stands, the most elegant, built in 1908; the Paddock, close to the boxes and display circle; Special and New. Every year in November, the main event run is the Grand National Prize.

16

CLUB DE PESCADORES AND PIER Rafael Obligado and av. Sarmiento

17

Along the city’s northern waterfront (Costanera Norte), extending out into the Río de la Plata, sits the Club de Pescadores (Spanish for fishermen’s club). Its structure is similar to that of a Belgian castle surrounded by water and sky. Walking along 1640-foot pier is a unique experience. Its solid structure allows visitors to walk out

onto the river every day at any time. Founded in 1903, it was declared a National Historic Landmark, and has become an iconic symbol of Buenos Aires.

73


Buenos Aires City Guide

PLAZA CORTÁZAR (FORMER PLAZA SERRANO) Honduras and Serrano

18

Located in the heart of the neighborhood Palermo Viejo, this public square is the epicenter of what became known as Palermo Soho, thanks to the number of cutting-edge stylish shops, bars and restaurants that popped up around it and the surrounding blocks.

THE 1ST INFANTRY REGIMENT “LOS PATRICIOS” Av. Bullrich 481

20

It was created in 1806 to attack the first British invasion of the Río de la Plata. Today it is the escort and honor guard battalion of the General Staff of the Army and the City Government of Buenos Aires. The regiment’s building, declared a National Historic Landmark, includes a museum that reflects the significant events in the history of the institution and the country.

REGIMENT OF MOUNTED GRENADIERS Av. Luis María Campos 554 This regiment was created in 1812 by General José de San Martín, architect of the Independence of Argentina,

74

19

Peru and Chile. Grenadiers fought in numerous battles of the War of Independence and were part of the army that crossed the Andes in 1817. Since 1907, this regiment has served as the Presidential Guard of the Republic. The

Palermo barracks, built in the late nineteenth century and declared a National Historic Landmark, houses a museum displaying valuable pieces of Argentina’s military history.


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY

PALERMO VIEJO Here contemporary dining options coexist with traditional bodegones and grills that persist from days gone past, once lived by this residential neighborhood.

PALERMO HOLLYWOOD Here visitors will find rich choice of bistros offering fusion, signature and international cuisine. Although more dispersed than its sister neighborhood on the other side of the railway tracks, it is worth exploring.

BARES NOTABLES CafĂŠ Los Andes Scalabrini Ortiz 1312

CafĂŠ Nostalgia Soler 3599

El Preferido de Palermo Jorge Luis Borges 2108

#TIP Nightlife in Buenos Aires gets off to a very late start. In bars, peak movement begins around midnight and a couple hours later moves to the clubs.

Varela Varelita Scalabrini Ortiz 2102

75


Buenos Aires City Guide

SHOPPING Alto Palermo Av. Santa Fe 3252 A traditional shopping mall in the Palermo neighborhood where you can find the bestselling brands. It has a large food court and underground parking.

#TIP Shopping malls are open seven days a week, including most holidays.

Paseo Alcorta Salguero 3172 Another one of the most important shopping centers, this mall combines mass consumer brands and exclusive designers. It has a food court and a playground for children.

AREA SURROUNDING PLAZA ARMENIA Along the streets of Costa Rica, Honduras and El Salvador, visitors will enjoy shops with the coolest selection of clothing, accessories, objects and furnishings in the city.

Outlets along Aguirre Aguirre 600-900, Gurruchaga 700-900 and Loyola 500-700 Along these city blocks is the widest selection of outlet shops for leading brands of clothing, shoes and accessories, including stock from prior seasons and some items from their newest collections.

#TIP PLAZA CORTÁZAR CRAFTS FAIR Jorge Luis Borges and Honduras, Palermo In the square and in the bars around it, artisans and independent designers offer their unique wares at very reasonable prices.

76

Chosen by independent designers, trendsetters, artists and fashion and decoration’s leading brands, Palermo Viejo has become the city’s design circuit.


TRENDY BUENOS AIRES

Distrito Arcos Premium Outlet Paraguay 4979 This is an open-air shopping complex, which was recently opened in the fully renovated buildings of the old railway facilities. It combines upscale outlets and outdoor dining options.

EL DORREGO ANTIQUES FAIR Av. Dorrego and Niceto Vega This large warehouse contains all kinds of novelties and treasures: furniture, paintings, sculptures, marble, bronze, glass, stones, jewelry, silverware, china, music, instruments, clothing, etc. Visitors are sure to find antique furniture, artwork and objects from every period and style.

77


78

On foot, bicycle or bus, this route will take you by 16 museums and cultural spaces throughout the city. You can do it in 48 hours or three days. History, art, technology and science along almost one mile (40 city blocks) from Retiro to Palermo.

DO THE MUSEUM MILE MARQ Art and Design Museum Palacio Nacional de las Artes

4

5

(page 72)

Automobile Club of Argentina Museum

(page 46)

Sculpture park

(page 47)

10 The National Museum of Decorative Arts (page 72)

9

8

National Museum of Fine Arts 7

(page 44)

Recoleta Cultural Center

6

(page 47)

(page 52)

(page 52)

RaĂşl Scalabrini Ortiz National Railway Museum

(page 52)

Isaac FernĂĄndez Blanco Hispanic-American Art Museum

(page 52)

Monumental Tower

3

2

1


79

16

14

15

11

13 12

10

9

8 7 6 5

4

2

3

(page 70)

José Hernández Museum of Popular Art

1

16 Eduardo Sívori Museum of Fine Arts (page 69)

15 Galileo Galilei Planetarium Museum (page 67)

14 Evita Museum (page 70)

13 MALBA (page 69)

12 Metropolitan Museum

11


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES Belgrano Barracas Caballito Flores Tree-lined streets, friends drinking mate in the square, neighbors walking their dogs, grocery stores and 24-hour kiosks are just some of the everyday sights that represent the daily activities of the city’s porteùo residents. For those visitors who decide to venture outside the traditional tourism circuit, there is much more Buenos Aires to discover.

80

BELGRANO In 1855, the settlement in the north of Buenos Aires was named after Manuel Belgrano, hero and creator of the Argentine flag. Today, this is a very busy commercial area, with lots of activity concentrated mainly along Cabildo Avenue. In some parts of the neighborhood, the old houses and stately homes are still standing, mixed in with modern buildings.


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

BARRANCAS DE BELGRANO Av. Juramento, Zavalía, La Pampa and av. Virrey Vértiz

6

Until the mid-nineteenth century, the Río de la Plata rose all the way to the bottom of these banks. The Mitre railroad embankment held back the water, allowing the land to dry out. Among the various sculptures in this park, there is a replica of the Statue of Liberty by the author of the original, the Frenchman Frédéric Bartholdi. In the Antonio Malvagni bandstand, there used to be open-air concerts. Also in this park is the La Reina Batata children’s library.

2 4 7

1

3 5

1

#TIP The evenings, outdoor milongas are improvised in the bandstand in CLUB ATLÉTICO Barrancas. RIVER PLATE

City buses

Subway

Bus lines 10, 12, 15, 29, 34, 36, 37, 38, 41, 55, 57, 59,

D

60, 64, 67, 68, 93, 95, 108, 111, 118, 128, 141, 152, 160, 161, 166, 194

PARQUE EXTREMO

INMACULADA CONCEPCIÓN PARISH Vuelta de Obligado 2042

2

This circular church, popularly known as the Redonda (Spanish for the round one), opened in 1878. Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, it has influences of Italian Neo-Renaissance.

81

CENTROS DE INFORMACIÓN TURÍSTIC


Buenos Aires City Guide

SARMIENTO HISTORIC MUSEUM Av. Juramento 2180

PLAZA GENERAL MANUEL BELGRANO Av. Juramento and Vuelta de Obligado

3

Built between 1869 and 1874, it was the seat of the Municipality of Belgrano, where the federalization of Buenos Aires was signed in 1880. On the fiftieth anniversary of the death of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, in 1938, the museum opened here in his memory. Its permanent collection includes Sarmiento’s personal objects, his library and archives, which were donated by his grandchildren.

4

In the center of the square is the monument to General Manuel Belgrano by the sculptor Héctor Rocha, inaugurated in 1961. The white marble sculpture of “The three graces” is the work of Italian sculptor Antonio Canova.

RECOVA Echeverría and Vuelta de Obligado, plazoleta Rafael Hernández

6

The plaque here evokes Ernesto Sabato’s novel, On Heroes and Tombs. In the chapter entitled “Report on the blind” the writer refers to this place as labyrinthine tunnel entrance to the underworld of the blind.

ENRIQUE LARRETA MUSEUM OF SPANISH ART Av. Juramento 2291

CASA DE ROGELIO YRURTIA MUSEUM O’Higgins 2390

5

This neocolonial house was the home and workshop of Argentine sculptor Rogelio Yrurtia and his wife, the painter Lia Correa Morales. The couple donated the house and his art collection to

82

the city in 1942. Yrurtia authored important monuments such as the “Ode to Work.” The museum exhibits the artist’s sketches and drawings, works in bronze and plaster, paintings and furnishings.

7

Built in 1882, this was the summer residence of Josefina Anchorena. Her husband, Enrique Larreta, was a writer and served as Argentine ambassador to France. Throughout his life, he assembled a large collection of Spanish art, which after his death was donated to the city government and today constitutes the museum’s collection.


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY LAS CAÑITAS Báez street between Dorrego and Boulevard Chenaut Near the Argentine Polo Club and its fields, there are several restaurants and bars that form a thriving gastronomic center and nightspot along Báez and the surrounding streets.

CHINATOWN Arribeños between Juramento and Blanco Encalada Along Arribeños and surrounding streets, there are numerous Asian restaurants and markets. Another wave of more recent migrants has brought another traditional cuisine to the neighborhood: Peruvian food.

NOTABLE BARS Café de la Esquina Av. Del Libertador 6196

Capisci Vuelta de Obligado 2072

83


Buenos Aires City Guide

SHOPPING

CABILDO AVENUE One of the main corridors of shops and activity in the neighborhood of Belgrano.

84

#TIP “Las Cañitas” was named for the large amount of cane planted along one of the main streets running through the neighborhood, today known as Luis María Campos Avenue.

El Solar de la Abadía Av. Luis María Campos This shopping mall was built in a former dry ice factory.


TALK LIKE THE LOCALS UN CACHO

UN BAJÓN

a piece, a little

something depressing or disappointing

FULERO, FULERA BONDI

ugly

city bus

ARRUGAR be scared

GUITA

BIRRA beer

money

CARGAR tease or trick someone

MATINA morning

CHANTA con-artist

¡GUARDA! Watch out!

LABURAR work

CHAMUYAR sweet talk, flirt, manipulate someone

MINA girl, young woman

FLASHEAR

MORFAR

really enjoy something

LUCA 1000 pesos

GAMBA a person’s leg or 100 pesos

eat

PIOLA PIBE

smart

boy

QUILOMBO a mess, a chaotic situation

BERRETA

TRUCHO

cheap, poor quality

fake, poor quality

TIMBA gamble

85


Buenos Aires City Guide

BARRACAS The neighborhood is named after the large warehouses built on the banks of the Riachuelo River in the early eighteenth century. The warehouses were used to store the goods loaded at the harbor, such as hides and salted meat. During the twentieth century, the area received a wave of immigrants, mainly Italians, and became an industrial neighborhood. Today, it is undergoing a full transformation, and has emerged as a center of design and technology.

SANTA FELICITAS CHURCH Isabel la Católica 520 Felicitas Guerrero was a young, rich widow, who, in 1872, was murdered by a spurned suitor. In her memory, her parents built this eclectic style church with Gothic influence. It is the only church in Buenos Aires with secular statues, representing Felicitas, her husband and her son.

SANTA LUCÍA PARISH Av. Montes de Oca 550

City buses Bus lines 12, 17, 22, 24, 39, 46, 51, 60, 70, 74, 93, 98, 102, 129, 168

86

In 1783, this chapel was built in dedication to Saint Lucía de Siracusa, the protector of the Barracas neighborhood. Festivities are held here every December 13, in celebration of the day of the Barracas neighborhood.


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

CALLE LANÍN (LANÍN STREET) Lanín and Brandsen In the late twentieth century, the painter Marino Santa María, born in this neighborhood, painted the front of his workshop, Lanín 33, with one of his works. The neighbors were enthusiastic about the idea and the artist’s work later appeared on 35 facades along three blocks.

PLAZA COLOMBIA Av. Montes de Oca, Isabel la Católica, Brandsen and Pinzón Originally the country residence of the Álzaga family, in the 1930s, the municipal offices were built here. Then in 1937, it was named Plaza Colombia. The monument “Raising the flag,” the work of sculptor Julio Vergotini, stand at the center of the square.

DEL SUR CULTURAL SPACE Av. Caseros 1750 Its activities are oriented toward education and entertainment for the whole family. As part of its programming it dedicates a space to series of Latin American music, tango and folklore.

OR TORAH TEMPLE Brandsen 1444 This temple, opened in 1930, was built by a group of Syrian immigrants. Its dome is visible throughout the neighborhood. Inside, there is an Andalusian patio with multicolored mosaics.

BARRACAS, DESIGN DISTRICT Barracas forms part of the Design District, which seeks to promote design and link the development of this sector to the growth of the neighborhood. To do this, the city offers tax benefits that favor design companies and professionals who choose to set up in the neighborhood. The building of the Metropolitan Design Center (Algarrobo 1041) is an open creative environment, which is the first milestone in this project. It offers an annual program of events related to design and creative industries. Here training schools in trades related to the fashion and industrial design industries.

87


Buenos Aires City Guide

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY NOTABLE BARS El Progreso Montes de Oca 1700

La Flor de Barracas Suárez 2095

Los Laureles Iriarte 2290

CABALLITO In 1821 the Genoese Don Nicolás Vila opened a small grocery store (known in Spanish as a pulpería) on the block formed by the cross streets Emilio Mitre and Rivadavia. At the door of the store he placed a mast with a brass weathervane with the figure of a horse. The parishioners began to make use of the weathervane as a geographic reference, which eventually gave the neighborhood its present name. By 1860, the arrival of the tramway, and later the subway, helped spur commercial development, which today is the second most populous in the city.

City buses Bus lines 1, 2, 5, 25, 36, 42, 49, 52, 53, 55, 85, 86, 96, 103, 104, 132, 135, 136, 141, 153, 163, 172, 180

88

Subway A and E


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

PARQUE RIVADAVIA Av. Rivadavia 4900 Officially opened on July 17, 1928, this green space was designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays. One of the most important used book fairs in the city operates here.

CENTENARIO PARK Av. Ángel Gallardo and av. Patricias Argentinas Like many major green spaces in the city, it was designed by landscape architect Carlos Thays. It was named in 1909 to commemorate the centennial of the May Revolution.

LUIS PERLOTTI MUSEUM OF SCULPTURE Pujol 644 Located in the former home and studio of Argentine sculptor Luis Perlotti

(1890-1969), pre-Columbian America is the unifying theme of his artistic output of more than 900 pieces, which today make up the museum’s collection.

MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

HISTORIC TRAMWAY OF BUENOS AIRES

Av. Ángel Gallardo 490

Emilio Mitre 500 (corner ofJosé Bonifacio)

It is the oldest museum in Argentina; it was first conceived in 1812 and finally founded in 1823 by Bernardino Rivadavia. The museum’s collection is one of the most comprehensive in Latin America. Among its different halls, there are the themed rooms of paleontology, geology, amphibians, reptiles and arthropods, among others.

In 1863, the very first horsedrawn trams began circulating in Buenos Aires. By the late nineteenth century, electric power was added and over the years, the city trams transported up 650 million passengers per year. Today, the Historic Tramway of Buenos Aires runs along 1.2 miles of track, throughout the Caballito neighborhood.

LA ÉPOCA BARBERSHOP Guayaquil 877 This traditional-style barbershop with its nineteenth century decor, includes a large collections of novelties. Customers can sit in an authentic 1899 barber chair for a cut and shave, use a telephone booth 1925 or simply admire the Slovenian oak furnishings.

89


Buenos Aires City Guide

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY NOTABLE BARS El Viejo Buzón

Plaza Café

Neuquén 1100

Av. Rivadavia 4732

SHOPPING Mercado El Progreso Del Barco Centenera 141 It is one of the few historic markets that remain in Buenos Aires. Here you can buy food and talk with the friendly stallholders, all experts at what they do.

Caballito Shopping Av. Rivadavia 5108 Neighborhood shopping center with a food court and playground.

90


100%

9:21 am

BROWSE THE CITY DOWNLOAD DOWNLOAD THE THE APPS APPS

BA WIFI

BA EcoBici

Find free WiFi points.

Information about exclusive bike lanes and stations.

BA C贸mo llego

BA Cultural

How to get from one point to another in the city, whether on a bus, train, subway, bicycle, by car or on foot.

Cultural activities throughout the city.

BA Subte

Subway information in real time.

BA M贸vil

Public transport and traffic reports in real time.

BA Turismo

Content created with tourists in mind.

Available for

91


Buenos Aires City Guide

FLORES In its heyday, Flores played a starring role in important events of national history: here the Pact of San José de Flores, laying the foundations of national unity, was signed in 1859. In 1888, Flores, which belonged to the province of Buenos Aires, was incorporated into the city limits. Little by little, the neighborhood began to develop, becoming one of the city’s most traditional and populous disctrics.

PAPAL CIRCUIT Flores is the neighborhood that gave birth to His Holiness Francis, born Jorge Mario Bergoglio, in 1936. He worked here to help those who were in the greatest need. Every Thursday, around 3:00pm, a walking tour leaves from the San José de Flores Church (Av. Rivadavia 6950) and visits the places that were part of his history. On weekends and holidays, there are guided bus tours. Visitors must make a prior reservation to participate in the walking tour: circuitopapal@buenosaires.gob.ar

City buses Bus lines 25, 53, 63, 84, 92, 99, 106, 124, 133, 134, 172, 181

Metrobus Sur

Subway A and E

PLAZA JUAN MARTÍN DE PUEYRREDÓN Av. Rivadavia, Fray C. Rodríguez, Yerbal and Gral. J. G. de Artigas The square occupies an entire city block donated by the Flores family, founders of the village. The monument to Juan Martín de Pueyrredón (1777- 1850), a prominent Argentine military leader and politician, stands is the center.

92


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

FLORES STATION Yerbal between Artigas and Condarco On August 29, 1857 the country’s first railway line was officially inaugurated: the Western Railway. With its locomotives La Porteña and La Argentina, the following day it was opened for public use from the Del Parque station (a site now occupied by the Colón Theater) to La Floresta. The first station in Flores, only a wooden shed with cardboard roof, was located between the streets of Caracas and Gavilán.

FLORES MANSION Yerbal and Gavilán The housing complex known as the Flores Mansion was the result of a competition organized in 1921 by the Catholic People’s Union of Argentina. The winning design, by architect Fermín Bereterbide, proposed a unique configuration of the block, in which the center operates as an open space for all residents.

SAN JOSÉ DE FLORES CHURCH Av. Rivadavia 6950 In 1806, a precarious chapel was built on the corner of Rivadavia and Rivera Indarte; almost 25 years later, in 1830,

SCHOOL N°1 “GRAL. JUSTO JOSÉ DE URQUIZA” MUSEUM Yerbal 2370 It is the oldest operating school in Buenos Aires. Created by the town council as a school for

a church was erected in its place. In 1881 a committee of well-known neighbors raised the necessary funds and built the current Greco-Roman style structure.

boys, it first opened its doors on September 4, 1818. Since 1963, a magnificent museum of fine arts has been operating on the premises with more than 300 works by artists like Quinquela Martín, Soldi, Vergottini and Perlotti, among others.

SAN JOSÉ DE FLORES GALLERY Av. Rivadavia 6836 Opened in 1956, the gallery and was one of the most exclusive shopping areas in the neighborhood. The central dome that crowns the building has murals by four major exponents of social realism in Argentina: Juan Carlos Castagnino, Lino Spilimbergo, Enrique Policastro and Demetrio Urruchúa.

93


Buenos Aires City Guide

HOME OF MARCÓ DEL PONT/MARCÓ DEL PONT CULTURAL CENTER Gral. José de Artigas 206 Built around 1871, the house of Marcó del Pont Antonino, a prosperous merchant and public official, was the meeting place of many prominent figures of the time. In 1998 it was restored to house the Casa de la Cultura de San José de Flores. Today is also home to the Board of Historical Studies of San José de Flores.

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY BARES NOTABLES La Farmacia Av. Directorio 2400

SHOPPING RIVADAVIA AVENUE This avenue connected the area with the rest of the city and now concentrates the majority of clothing and accessories stores.

94


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

THROUGH OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS HISTORIC MUSEUM CORNELIO SAAVEDRA Crisólogo Larralde 6309, Saavedra The museum’s rooms give the visitor a glimpse of daily life in Buenos Aires in the nineteenth century.

MONTE DE PIEDAD MUSEUM Av. Boedo 870, Boedo

RIVER PLATE STADIUM Av. Figueroa Alcorta 7597, Belgrano/Núñez The soccer club River Plate was founded in 1901 in the neighborhood of La Boca. In the twenties, it moved its headquarters several times until finally settling on the border between two city neighborhoods: Belgrano and Nuñez. The stadium, popularly known as the Monumental, was one of the

Opened in 2003 in the building where the coffeehouse Biarritz y la Peña Pacha Camac operated, where many members of Boedo literary group passed through. first big stadiums in South America. The River Plate Museum, located next to the stadium, showcases the club’s history and triumphs.

#TIP Experience the classic match of Argentine soccer rivals: Boca-River. The match promises spectators a full dosage of the local passion for this sport.

AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM Irigoyen 2265, Villa Real The museum’s collection of classic and vintage cars, Turismo Carretera coupes, motorcycles and other unique vehicles transport visitors back to the Buenos Aires of the early twentieth century.

95


Buenos Aires City Guide

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY NOTABLE BARS 12 de Octubre Bulnes 331, Almagro

Bar de Cao Av. Independencia 2400, San Cristóbal

Bar del Glorias Andagalá 1982, Mataderos

Bar Oviedo Av. Lisandro de la Torre 2407, Mataderos

Café de García Sanabria 3302, Villa Devoto

Café de la U Triunvirato 4801, Villa Urquiza

Café de los Incas Av. De los Incas 3909, Villa Ortúzar

Café Don Juan Camarones 2702, Villa Santa Rita

Café Margot Av. Boedo 857, Boedo

Café Olimpo Irigoyen 1491, Villa Luro

Café Palacio Av. Federico Lacroze 3901, Chacarita

El Banderín Guardia Vieja 3601, Almagro

El Buzón Esquiú 1393, Pompeya

El Faro Av. De los Constituyentes 4099, Parque Chas

96

El Tokio

Miramar

Av. Álvarez Jonte 3550, Villa Santa Rita

Sarandí 1190, San Cristóbal

Esquina Homero Manzi Av. San Juan 3601, Boedo

La Nueva Andaluza Camarones 1412, La Paternal

Las Violetas Av. Rivadavia 3899, Almagro

Ocho Esquinas Forest 1186, Chacarita

Stylo Café Fernandez de Enciso 3934, Devoto


LOCAL BUENOS AIRES

SHOPPING FERIA DE LAS TRADICIONES AND ARTESANÍAS ARGENTINAS MATADEROS (MATADEROS CRAFTS FAIR) Av. Lisandro de la Torre and av. De los Corrales, Mataderos Opened in 1986, this fair includes stalls with local crafts, gaucho performances and activities to celebrate several local festivities, such as the Pachamama, the International Folklore Day, Salteño Carnival and the Day of Tradition. It is open on Sundays from March to December; and on Saturdays during February.

Dot Baires Shopping Vedia 3626, Saavedra Mall with food court, terrace, parking, cinemas and high-end shops.

Plaza Liniers Ramón L. Falcón 7115, Liniers

Del Parque Shopping Nazarre 3175, Villa del Parque

Devoto Shopping Quevedo and José Pedro Varela, Villa Devoto

97


Buenos Aires City Guide

EXPLORING THE CITY QUICK-BUENOS AIRES

WALKING TOURS Throughout the year, free guided tours are offered by the city’s tourism service. Each month expert guides narrate the many city sights, touching upon varied themes, including tango, theaters, architecture, art and history, among others. They are cancelled in the event of rain. More information in turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/en

If you only have one or two days to spend in Buenos Aires, the following route will allow you to maximize your experience.

24

48 LOOKOUTS The Lookouts of Buenos Aires program offers guided tours to the city’s watch towers for a unique elevated view of the sights. This free activity requires a reservation; visitors can sign up over the telephone 4339-1900/99, ext. 126 and 127.

98

24 HOURS Begin your day in San Nicolás, visiting the Plaza de Mayo and the Obelisk. Next, head over to San Telmo and then to La Boca for lunch. After lunch, hop onto one of the tourist buses to visit Puerto Madero. Spend the late afternoon strolling through the elegant neighborhood of Recoleta and wrap up your day in Palermo with dinner and drinks.

48 HOURS In you have one more day, visit some of the traditional porteños neighborhoods, like Belgrano or Palermo. Have lunch in an old-style bodega restaurant; during the afternoon, walk along Corrientes Avenue and Florida Street, and visit one of the notable bars mentioned in this guide. At night, slide across the dance floor to the 2/4 rhythm of a tango class at a casa de tango or at one of the city’s many milongas.


EXPLORING THE CITY

BUENOS AIRES ON YOUR TERMS Tips for experiencing the city on a shoestring. Buy a SUBE card to take advantage of public transport. Take advantage of Ecobici, the program of free city bikes. Stay in a hostel or find lodging in a family home. Do your shopping in the markets and fairs; hit the outlet shopping circuits.

TOURISM BUS Buses dedicated to tourism offer visitors a panoramic view of the city along their routes. You can hop on every 20 minutes and the ticket price includes a self-lead audio tour available in 12 languages. Tickets can be bought onboard, at Diagonal Norte 728, the Tourism Information Center in Recoleta (Av. Quintana 596) or online buenosairesbus.com/en

CULTURAL TOURISM ON TWO WHEELS The city offers you different cultural tours in pedal-assist bicycles with electric motor. A sustainable, healthy and fun alternative! The twohour tours takes place on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with groups of up to 15 people. Check circuits and reserve a spot at turismoendosruedas@buenosaires.gob.ar

Look into the free cultural activities offered by the city. Enjoy more than a hundred public green spaces.

#TIP Bus service Arbus connects the Metropolitan Airport with the neighborhoods throughout the city, including Retiro, Palermo, Belgrano and Puente Saavedra, at a very affordable price. 99


Buenos Aires City Guide

HOW TO GET AROUND IN THE CITY BICYCLE With more than 87 miles of bike lanes, the city offers you to an economical, healthy and environmentally friendly way to get around. Choosing from any of the 40 Ecobici stations around the city, you can hop on a bike and use it for up to an hour for free. This public bike system is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For more information about the city’s EcoBici and network of bike lanes, visit buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici.

SUBWAY Six subway lines run below the city: A, B, C, D, E and H. Users can add credit to their SUBE card or purchase single ride tickets at each station. The tariff is fixed for all six lines. Service is available Monday through Saturday from 6:00am-10:00pm, and on Sundays and holidays from 8am-10:00pm. Some lines have slightly longer hours.

TRAINS CITY BUSES These city buses include more than 180 bus lines running to every neighborhood of the city. Their routes are numbered. They operate 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

M METROBUS This newest transport system offered by the city ensures people can travel better and arrive at their destinations on time more comfortably and efficiently. Information and routes are available at: movilidad.buenosaires.gob.ar/metrobus. The SUBE card is for travelling on any of the many different means of transport in the city: trains, buses and subways. It can be purchased at any of the points of sale throughout the city (subway, train stations and city kiosks). Users can add credit to the card as needed. Without the card, the fare is higher; bus fares can only be paid with coins or the SUBE card.

100

The suburban rail network is a good alternative for visiting tourist areas outside the city limits or for travelling to the more remote areas of the city. There are four terminal stations located in different neighborhoods of Buenos Aires that serve different routes: Retiro Station: trains to/from the north of Greater Buenos Aires and neighborhoods like Belgrano, Núñez, Villa Urquiza, Villa Devoto, etc. Constitución Station: trains to/from the south of Greater Buenos Aires. Once Station: trains to/from the west of Greater Buenos Aires and neighborhoods like Caballito, Flores and Liniers. Federico Lacroze station: trains to/from the northeast of Greater Buenos Aires.

TAXIS Taxis are painted black and yellow. They can be hailed on the street or requested over the phone or using a mobile application. The cost of the trip is calculated based on the distance and time. The rate, which is expressed in pesos, will appear on a screen visible to the passenger. From 10:00pm to 6:00am, an evening rate applies, which is 20% higher than the daytime rate.


EXPLORING THE CITY

AIRPORTS Aeroparque Metropolitano Jorge Newbery Domestic Airport Av. Rafael Obligado n/n, Palermo. Domestic flights and some flights to neighboring countries.

#TIP In comollego.ba.gob.ar you can find out what the quickest way is for you to get from one point to another in the city, whether by car, bus, bike or on foot. Download the app into your telephone!

Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini International Airport Highway Tte. Gral. Riccheri, mile marker 208. Province of Buenos Aires. Its three terminals handle international flights coming in and out of the country.

WATERWAY TERMINALS Buquebus Terminal Av. Antártida Argentina 821 and Cecilia Grierson Departures and arrivals of ferries to Colonia and Montevideo, Uruguay. Av. Córdoba and Av. E. Madero, Puerto Madero. Quinquela Martín Cruise Ship Terminal Av. Ramón Castillo and Av. De los Inmigrantes, Retiro. Departure and arrival of international cruise ships.

CAR RENTAL You must be at least 21 years old with a valid driver’s license issued at least two years before and have a credit card with a high enough credit limit to cover the rental cost and any insurance fees.

BUS STATION Retiro Bus Terminal Av. Antártida Argentina and av. Ramos Mejía, Retiro. Departures and arrivals of long-distance buses to national and international destinations. 101


Buenos Aires City Guide

SUBWAY

102


EXPLORING THE CITY

103


Av .U da on do

Av. Pte . Figue roa Alc orta

so oe nr gre on Mo .C Av Av .L .M .C am po s

Av .P te .F ig ue ro a

Fe liú

Av .S ar m ien to

San Martín

Suipacha

Azopardo

Dr. J. M. Giuffra

M ar ga ll

Cochabamba

sil Bra Av.

Brasil

A. Villaflor

10

6

Pi y

B. De Irigoyen

Balcarce

Tacuarí

Lima

Sgo. Del Estero

Virrey Cevallos Virrey Cevallos

Carlos Calvo

Ca bo to

EST.CONSTITUCIÓN

ingó Ituza

Irala

y Gualegua

Azara Gral. Hornos

i Albert

Me jía

Av .D r. J .M .R am os

M on te vid eo

Montevideo

Pte. J.E. Uriburu

Pasco

Pozos

Rincón

cha Pichin

Pavón

3 Chile

Herrera

a cho E. O

o an zc re .E Av

Av. Sáenz

llata Uspa

17

20

Av .A .A lco rta

Quilmes

Sa ra za

Puan

Av. Alm afue rte

Miro

o nd io gu ur M

al an al ab an o t. R ab er . In br t. R Av . In Fe Av De 7 .2 v A

23

26

A. Alsina

15 Av. San Juan

89 De 18 mbre Novie 15 De seros Av. Ca eau nd Ro

28 M. Güemes

Rivadavia

Carlos Calvo

De Los Combate

es Dean Fun

Las Casas

ndeau Zañartú Ro

Catamarca

Liniers Virrey

Av.

4

CORREO CENTRAL

Av. Paseo Colón

Au str ia

A nc ho re na La rre a

Av .C ne l. D íaz

Ecu ado r

Billinghur st

Agüe ro

Bulnes

Tarija

8

Sarmiento

19

s Palo

s ntale es Orie ta y Tr Trein

l ava Ach

Tarija Estrada

7

el rdri Pe

da tra Es

Av .L aP lat a

Av Av . C . C ne ne l. R l. R oc oc a a

vo s Cal Carlo

ray J. De Ga

21 29 Av. Córdoba 25 Tucumán 11

Tte. Gral. J. D. Perón

ción Constitu

dó Ro E. J.

az l. P ra .G Av

104

D r. T .M .D e

F. Acuñ a De Fig ueroa

30

Tucumán

A. Alsina

ico Méx

dos Estados Uni

cio J. Bonifa

Pu m ac ah ua

Av .E sc ala da

13

Valle

ila Dav

s edio Rem

16

rin oB istr Min

üe palig Cura Av.

Valle

EST. ONCE

2 12 Arenales 24 Sgto. Cabral M. T. De Alvear

Misiones Castelli ra Saaved

Go do yC ru z

Senillosa

ez gu dri Ro

las endi Dob Otam

Tte. Gral. J. D. Perón

sco Don Bo

Juncal

Transfer centers

Av .F igu ero a AvAlco . D rta el Lib er EST. RETIRO ta do r

s liano Los Ita

Rawson

Potosí vao Esti

Chaco Quito

s de An De ez nd Me

ilbao F. B

io or ct ire .D Av dil n Ta

he retc Jau A.

se alle F. V

18

Arg

1

31

e Av. D

. C. F

to us .J .B .J Av

32

ño Oro N.

as rtig eA .D .G l. J Gra

Ch iv ilc oy

Av . Pa tric ias

s yo rro sA Tre

z Día ar és l. C Gra

Humahuaca

d ar av Br

s rco Ma

l. L .M .M an sil la

Gorriti

Public transportation system on bike

. a Arg ntártid Av. A

la yo Lo

la dil Pa

ta as og Tin

27 Gr a

ez ar Álv J. Dr.

e str Sa

9

z are Álv J. Dr.

Go rrit i

no rra Se

t ld bo m Hu

PZA. ITALIA

Virrey Liniers

Av .D or re go

Av .C orr ien tes

Av. Del Lib erta Pa dor ch ec o de n dó M . rre elo Avuey Fr P en ch

5

es rg Bo L. J.

C. Are nal

ti ret Ce . .F Av

Pre-existing bike lanes

14

22 EST. F. LACROZE

iró Be

Work under project

Av. Int. Bullr ich

Vir rey Lo ret o

Gra l. E .M art íne z

do na Do

Av .T riu nv ira to

Work in progress A lco rta

Av .C er viñ o

rí pe Su

ti ret Ce

Mo lde s pa m Pa La

One-way bike lanes

T. Ga rc ia

rg be lm Ho

e ald arr oL log só Cri

Vir rey Ola gu er y

ini gr elle .P C.E

Bike lanes

do ga bli O R. ra ne ta os .C Av

Av. Int. Güira ldes

r do ta re er mb Lib tie el ep .D eS Av 11 D

Río

do ga bli eO aD elt Vu

l rcía De Av. Ga

Reference map Av .C om .R iva da via

. Av

az l. P Gra

d adri am eL zD rao l. A Gra


network EXISTING Metrobus Juan B. Justo Metrobus 9 de Julio Metrobus Sur IN PROGRESS Metrobus Norte Metrobus San Martín Metrobus Au. 25 de Mayo COMING SOON Metrobus Paseo Colón

VICENTE LÓPEZ

Bus terminal Train terminal PACÍFICO

SAN MARTÍN

RETIRO

OBELISCO

PLAZA DE MAYO

TRES DE FEBRERO

CONSTITUCIÓN

LINIERS

LA BOCA

LA MATANZA

AVELLANEDA

105 LANÚS


REFERENCES Alvear Theater

Danish Church

32

Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Art Collection

64

De las Nereidas Fountain

61

Antonio Ballvé Penitentiary Museum of Argentina

33

Del Salvador Church

36

ARA Presidente Sarmiento

63

Argentine Polo Field

73

Automobile Club of Argentina (ACA)

72

Automobile Museum

95

Banco de la Nación Argentina

20

13

Barrancas de Belgrano

81

Bicentennial Museum

16

Borges Cultural Center

12

Del Sur Cultural Space

87

Docks 1, 2, 3 and 4

59

Dr. Guillermo Rawson School Eduardo Sívori

33

Museum of Fine Arts

69

El Solar de French Gallery

32

El Viejo Almacén

31

Enrique Larreta Museum of Spanish Art

82

Ernesto de la Cárcova Museum of Reproductions and Comparative Sculpture

61

Buenos Aires Botanical Garden

70

Evita Museum

70

Buenos Aires Museum Center (former Munich Brewery)

62

Faena Arts Center

64

Buenos Aires Zoo

73

Cabildo de Buenos Aires

16

Calle Lanín (Lanín street)

87

Caminito/Open-air fine arts museum “Caminito” 27 Carlos Gardel lane and monument

35

Carlos Thays Park

48

Casa Carlos Gardel Museum

35

Fangio Monument

62

Fine Arts Pavilion of the Catholic University

64

Floralis genérica

45

Flores Mansion

93

Flores Station

93

Former Casa de la Moneda

20

Former headquarters of Congress

16

Former headquarters of the National Library

20

Fundación Proa

27

Galileo Galilei Planetarium

67 13

Casa de Juan Carlos Castagnino

32

Casa de Liniers

20

Casa de Rogelio Yrurtia Museum

82

Casa Mínima and Zanjón de Granados

32

General San Martín Theater and Cultural Center

Casa Rosada or House of Government

15

Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo

73

Castelar Hotel

21

Historic Museum Cornelio Saavedra

95

Historic Tramway of Buenos Aires

89

Centenario Park

89

Centro Naval Building

51

Home of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento

12

Cervantes National Theater

12

Home of Esteban de Luca

32

51

Home of Marcó del Pont/Marcó del Pont Cultural Center

94

Círculo Militar (Paz Palace) Ciudad Cultural Konex

38

Club Atlético Boca Juniors Stadium

29

House of Culture (former headquarters of the newspaper La Prensa)

Club de Pescadores and pier

73

Immigration Museum

Colegio Nacional de Buenos Aires

18

Inmaculada Concepción Parish

81

Colón Theater

12

Isaac Fernández Blanco Hispanic-American Art Museum

52

Japanese Garden

70

José Hernández Museum of Popular Art

70

Contemporary Art Museum of Buenos Aires (MACBA)

34

Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve

61

106

21 63


Juan B. Ambrosetti Museum of Ethnography

19

Nuestra Señora del Pilar Basilica

Julio Argentino Roca Monument

18

Obelisco

11

Kavanagh Building

52

Ode to Labor Monument

31

La Época Barbershop

89

Old Canale Factory

31

La Rural, Buenos Aires Fairgrounds

72

Or Torah Temple

87

La Usina del Arte

28

19

Legislature of the City of Buenos Aires

16

Our Lady of the Rosary Basilica and Santo Domingo Convent

Lezama Park

31

Pablo Ducrós Hicken Film Museum

29

Liceo Theater

22

Lola Membrives Theater

13

Luis Perlotti Museum of Sculpture

89

Manzana de las Luces

18

MARQ Art and Design Museum

52

Massué Watch Tower

12

Metropolitan Cathedral

15

Micaela Bastidas Park

60

Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, Fishing and 30 Food Monte de Piedad Museum Monument to Quixote

95 21

43

Palace of Justice

13

Palacio Barolo

22

Palacio de Aguas Corrientes

36

Palacio de Gobierno

16

Palacio del Congreso de la Nación

38

Palacio Nacional de las Artes

47

Palacio San Martín Pasaje Zelaya

51 36

Paseo del Filete

36

Patio del Liceo

48

Pergola

62

Plaza Colombia

87

Plaza Cortázar (former Plaza Serrano)

74

Multiteatro (former Blanca Podestá Theater)

13

Plaza de Mayo

14

Museum of Fine Arts of La Boca Quinquela Martin and Pedro de Mendoza School

27

Plaza del Congreso

Museum of Latin American Art (MALBA)

69

Museum of Modern Art of Buenos Aires (MAMBA)

34

Mujeres Argentinas Park

60

Museum of Natural History

89

Museum of Public Television

44

Museum of the City Museum of the Shoah-Foundation for the Holocaust Memorial

18 48

21

Plaza Dorrego

30

Plaza Evita and the Evita monument

46

Plaza Francia

43

Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina and Monumental Tower

52

Plaza General Manuel Belgrano

82

Plaza Juan Martín de Pueyrredón

92

Plaza Mitre

47 46

National Library

46

Plaza República Oriental del Uruguay

National Museum of Fine Arts

47

Plaza Rubén Darío and Paseo de las Esculturas (sculpture park)

46

Plaza San Martín

50

National Museum of History

33

National Museum of the History of Costume

34

National Parks Building

51

National Tango Academy and World Museum of Tango

22

32 Nuestra Señora de Belén Church, San Pedro González Telmo parish and the cloister museum

Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza Church

60

Plazoleta de San Francisco

19

Puente de la Mujer

60

Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz National Railway Museum

52

Recoleta Cemetery

44

Recoleta Cultural Center

44

107


Recova

82

Regiment of Mounted Grenadiers

74

Regina Martyrum Church

36

Rey Fahd Islamic Cultural Center

72

Rivadavia Park

89

River Plate Stadium

95

Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity

33

San Francisco Church and Convent, San Roque Chapel

19

San Ignacio de Loyola Church

18

San José de Flores Church

93

San José de Flores Gallery

93

San Juan Evangelista Church

28

Santa Catalina de Siena Church and former convent

13

Santa Felicitas Church

86

Santa Lucía Parish

86

Santísimo Sacramento Basilica

51

Sarmiento Historic Museum

82

Sarmiento Theater

73

School N°1 “Gral. Justo José de Urquiza” Museum

93

School of Engineering of the University of Buenos Aires (UBA)

31

Schooner ARA Uruguay

63

Silos of the former Junta Nacional de Granos

63

Tango Monument

62

Teatro de la Ribera

29

The 1st Infantry Regiment “Los Patricios”

74

The National Museum of Decorative Arts

72

The old Nicolás Avellaneda ferry bridge and the new Nicolás Avellaneda bridge

28

Tres de Febrero Park (The Woods of Palermo) 67 UBA Law School

45

UBA School of Engineering

45

Vuelta de Rocha

28

Xul Solar Museum

48

Yacht Club Argentino

63

108

THANKS FOR YOUR VISIT!



April 2015


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.