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The Monuments of Historic Cairo
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American Research Center in Egypt Conservation Series 1
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The Monuments of Historic Cairo A MAP AN D DE S C R I PT IVE C ATALOG U E
Nicholas Warner
An American Research Center in Egypt Edition The American University in Cairo Press Cairo
New York
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Illustration credits: Aga Khan Trust for Culture: fig. 37; Archivio di Stato di Torino: pl. 2; author’s drawing: figs. 1, 14, 15, 39, 40 (part), 41 (part), 42 (part), 43 (part), 44 (part), 45 (part), 46, 47 (part), 48; author’s photo: fig. 38; author’s collection: figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 26, 30, pls. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, [all photos Boulos Isaac]; Bernard Quaritch Ltd., London: fig. 17 [photo John Stone]; Bibliothèque Nationale: pls. 1, 3; Comité and SCA archives: figs. 32, 33, 34 (part), 35, 41 (part), 42 (part), 43 (part), 44 (part), 45 (part), 47 (part); Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Abteilung Kairo: fig. 24 [photo Abdel Nasser el-Tayyib/Peter Windzhus]; Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington D.C.: fig. 16; The Nour Foundation: pl. 4; private collection, France: 45 (part); private collection, Washington D.C.: fig. 25; Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo: figs. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 27, 28, 29, 31, 34 (part), 42 (part), pls. 6, 13, 15, [photos Francis Dzikowski], pl. 12 [photo Mustafa ‘Abd al-Hamid], 43 (part), 44 (part), 45 (part); Sarah Searight: pl. 14; Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kupferstichkabinett: fig. 3 [photo Jörg P. Anders]; Walters Art Museum, Baltimore: pl. 5
First published in 2004 by The American University in Cairo Press 113 Sharia Kasr el Aini, Cairo Egypt 420 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10018 www.aucpress.com Copyright ' 2005 by American Research Center in Egypt, Inc. 2 Midan Kasr al-Dubara, Garden City, Cairo, Egypt MailStop 1256/001/1AC Emory University Briarcliff Campus, Atlanta, GA 30322 Introduction copyright ' 2004 by Nicholas Warner All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. This publication was made possible through support provided by the Office of Environment and Infrastructure/Environment and Engineering (EI/EE), USAID/Egypt, United States Agency for International Development, under the terms of Grant No. 263-G-00-93-00089-00. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Agency for International Development. Dar el Kutub No. 16152/03 ISBN 977 424 841 4 Designed by Andrea El-Akshar/AUC Press Design Center Printed in Egypt
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Contents
Foreword Jere L. Bacharach and Robert K. Vincent, Jr.
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Acknowledgments
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Preface
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Introduction: Cartography, Architecture, and Urbanism in Cairo,
AD
1500–2000
1
Note on Sources, Cartography, and Architectural Drawings Descriptive Catalogue
82 87
Glossary
192
Abbreviations
194
References
195
Index of Buildings by Number
202
Index of Buildings by Name
220
Index of Buildings by Date
243
Maps
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Foreword
I
n 1996, in response to a call for a competition for sub-grants by the American Research Center in Egypt, Nicholas Warner submitted a proposal to draw a group of maps documenting Cairo’s registered monuments within their urban context. ARCE’s Egyptian Antiquities Project, funded by the United States
Agency for International Development, was less than three years old at the time, and the proposals thus far approved and underway had tended to concentrate on ‘bricks-and-mortar’ conservation. The Cairo Mapping Project, as it was called, was different. The materials were limited to pen and paper; the staff comprised a single talented cartographer-architect working out of his home with field help from an assistant, and the inspectors of the Supreme Council of Antiquities, who literally opened doors for him. This project satisfied the broader mission of the Egyptian Antiquities Project grant: to document Egypt’s material culture in order to make its preservation possible. Historic Cairo had not been comprehensively mapped since 1950, and the context of the more than four hundred registered monuments that lie within its area had changed significantly over the course of nearly half a century. Intervening events, moreover, lent a particular urgency to the project, including a 5.9-magnitude earthquake in October 1992 that had damaged many of Cairo’s monuments, a significant rise in the level of atmospheric pollution, the elevation of the city’s groundwater levels, and the simple fact that history tends to be unobserved, ignored, forgotten, and lost when it lies in the context of a living city. By documenting the architecture of Historic Cairo, the Cairo Mapping Project sought to preserve that history—in a manner different from the physical preservation undertaken by other EAP projects, but no less valuable. How many of the buildings described by medieval historians of the city such as Maqrizi are now dust while their words live on? The completed Monuments of Historic Cairo has proved more ambitious than any of us, including its author, originally envisioned: its introduction traces the his-
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tory of how Cairo has been imagined and represented over the course of five hundred years; the maps themselves document not only the registered monuments that lie within the district as well as their context; they also show nearly 150 unregistered, historically important buildings. The accompanying catalogue describes these monuments and, for the first time, brings together more than a century of scholarly research into this architectural heritage; it traces the conservation of many of these buildings by the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe, as well as by institutions that have sustained the Comité’s mission of architectural preservation. The twentieth-century English poet W.H. Auden wrote that “poetry makes nothing happen: it survives in the valley of its saying.” Like poetry, The Monuments of Historic Cairo is in a sense nothing more than a record, documenting a moment of a city. It is certain, moreover, that the passage of another fifty years will require another map, another bibliography to trace the writings of a new generation of architectural historians, another survey of the monuments that have fallen, been rehabilitated, or simply survived. But for those who have studied the city, worked here, passed through it, or simply imagined Cairo from afar, there is a subtle poetry inherent in these maps: the dashed and dotted lines that record monuments which survive only as memories, the shaded polygons that frame inaccessible and unknown interiors, the bracketed numbers that ominously signal a monument’s uncertain future or actual demise, the prefixes (“U” for “unregistered”) that draw attention to hitherto ignored or overlooked structures. Most evocative, perhaps because of what they conceal, are the large swathes of hatching that describe a living city dating back more a thousand years, in which hundreds of thousands of Cairenes, like millions before them, live and work, shop, pray, venerate their saints, celebrate births and weddings, raise families, and mourn their dead. We hope that the publication of The Monuments of Historic Cairo will encourage others to study the city and to see value in preserving its heritage. The poetry of these maps lies in making Cairo’s memory survive, and it is their “saying” that constitutes Nicholas Warner’s achievement. Jere L. Bacharach and Robert K. Vincent, Jr. The American Research Center in Egypt, Cairo
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F O R E W O R D
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Acknowledgments
A
s a result of an initiative by the United States Congress, generous funding for the preservation of Egypt’s cultural heritage was made available to the American Research Center in Egypt (ARCE) through the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) in 1993. Under
this grant from USAID, a broad program of work was initiated encompassing the breadth of Egypt’s history, including the prehistoric and pharaonic periods, as well as Greco-Roman, Coptic, Islamic, and Jewish contributions. The results of the program have been far-ranging and have yielded far greater successes than anticipated. Unprecedented in size and scale for an overseas conservation program, its full implications are only now being realized. This volume marks the beginning a series of publications that represent the culmination of the program of work. We hope that through them others may share in the academic and technical results of these projects. ARCE gratefully acknowledges this funding as a significant contribution by the United States of America to Egypt’s rich cultural history as embodied in its monuments. None of this work would have been accomplished without the extraordinary interest and support given to ARCE by literally hundreds of people. To all of them we owe our thanks and gratitude. While space does not permit mention of everyone to whom thanks is owed, we wish to thank the principals involved for their assistance. The Supreme Council of Antiquities, led by the Minister of Culture, His Excellency Farouk Hosni, is our collaborator in conservation and over the years of ARCE’s conservation projects its many members have been crucial to their conceptualization, conduct, and completions. They include successive Secretary Generals of the SCA Abdel Halim Nur El-Din, Ali Hassan, Gaballa Ali Gaballa, and Zahi Hawass. Also assisting were successive Directors of the Islamic and Coptic Sector Fahmy Abdel Halim, Abdullah El Attar, and Abdullah Kamel Musa and the Director of Foreign Missions Department Magdi El Ghandour.
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Without the foresight and persistence of former American Ambassador to Egypt Frank G. Wisner, who marshaled support for conservation, and Senate staff member Jim Bond, who was the architect of a plan that stimulated an interested US Congress to generously provide the funds for the “preservation and restoration of Egyptian antiquities,” none of these projects or volumes would have come to pass. Later American Ambassadors to Egypt Robert Pelletreau, Edward Walker, Daniel Kurtzer, and David Welch continued the tradition of strong personal interest and support. USAID, the agency responsible for administering the grant to ARCE, has not been a faceless bureaucracy. Instead, through partnership, teamwork, and ready assistance they have been instrumental to the implementation of these projects. In this capacity we thank successive Mission Directors Henry Bassford, John Westly, Richard Brown, Bill Pearson, and Kenneth Ellis; successive USAID Deputy Directors Toni Christiansen-Wagner, Anne Arness, and Mary Ott; successive USAID Associate Directors Fred Guymont, Alvin Newman, Mark Silverman, and Anthony Vance; USAID Program Officers Thomas Dailey, Jean Durrette, and Thomas Rishoi; USAID Contract Officers Leo Pizzario, James Dunlop, Gary Kinney, Carleton Bennett, Philip Tresch, Pamela Morris, and Sami Farag; USAID Environment Office Directors Rick Rhoda, Jim Goggins, George Deikun, Alan Davis, Glenn Whaley, and Richard Edwards. USAID Project Officer Seifalla Hassanein deserves special recognition as the sole person contributing to the project for its entirety. Projects do not operate by themselves. They are staffed by people who, in this case, have been driven by a sense of mission. They have put in years of hard work and dedication and thus deserve proper acknowledgment for both their sense of duty and their zeal for protecting Egypt’s heritage. Sincere appreciation is extended to the ARCE staff who participated as team members in the various conservation projects. They are ARCE Oversight Committee members James Allen, Norbert Baer, Betsy Bryan, Richard Fazzini, Charles Hertzer, Janet Johnson, Jack Josephson, Richard Martin, David O’Connor, Carol Redmount, Everett Rowson, Anne Russman, John Shearman, Carl Smith, and Jerry Vincent; successive ARCE Directors Terry Walz, Mark Easton, Robert Springborg, Irene Bierman, Jere Bacharach, and Gerry Scott; ARCE USA staff members Elaine Schapker, Catherine Clyne, Suzanne Thomas, Carolyn Tomaselli, and Candy Tate; ARCE Cairo staff members including successive Deputy Directors Ibrahim Sadek and Amira Khattab; Finance Manager Hussein Abdul Raouf and Office Manager Amir Khattab; ARCE EAP Staff Project Director Robert (Chip) Vincent; successive Technical Directors William Remsen and Jaroslaw (Jarek) Dobrowolski; Project Manager Michael Jones; successive Grant Administrators Cynthia L. Shartzer and Janie Abdul Aziz; successive Publication Directors Brian Green, Charles Dibble, and Kelly Zaug; Technical Adjuncts Alaa El
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Habashi and Hoda Abdel Hamid; successive Chief Accountants Hussein Abdel Raouf, Khaled El Saharty, and Ibrahim Ali Ibrahim; successive Assistant Grant Administrators Barbara Breuning and Dahlia Elwy; Administrative Assistant Mariam Sami; and successive Executive Secretaries Rania Sultan, Niveen Serry, and Marwa Shehata. To all mentioned above and those whose names are omitted due to lack of space, thank you for all your assistance. This has truly been a ground-breaking, far-reaching project that has been executed to everyone’s credit. Your combined efforts have contributed to the conservation of Egypt’s cultural heritage. You have made a difference. The American Research Center in Egypt
A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
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Preface
W
ork began on The Monuments of Historic Cairo in 1996. The adjective ‘Historic’ is currently used to describe an area of the city that has hitherto been commonly referred to as ‘Islamic’ or ‘medieval.’1 The new designation is employed primarily to avoid confusion with the physi-
cally distinct area of ‘Old’ or ‘Coptic’ Cairo that lies to the south of the main urban nucleus, but also to avoid the suggestion that the city’s urban development was somehow arrested at the end of the Mamluk period. The preference of such adjectives as ‘old’ and ‘historic’ over religiously exclusive terminology also represents a shift to a more neutral (but equally value-laden) descriptive vocabulary. The area in question contains the densest concentration of buildings from the Tulunid, Fatimid, Ayyubid, Mamluk, and Ottoman periods in the entire urban mass of Cairo. The objective of the map that is presented here is to provide, within its chosen boundaries, a comprehensive record of the plans of all significant architectural remains in relation to the current urban fabric, drawn at a metric scale of 1:500 and reproduced here at 1:1250. This includes not only registered and deregistered monuments (a total of 409 buildings inclusive of 73 deregistered sites), but also buildings of
I would like to thank the Egyptian Antiquities Project of the American Research Center in Egypt for their backing of the project and the Supreme Council of Antiquities for providing access to buildings and archives in their care. I am also grateful to Dr. Horst Jaritz for allowing me to draw in the peace of the Swiss Institute for Architectural and Archaeological Research in Cairo, Professor André Raymond for checking data on unidentified wikalas, and the staff of the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of the American University in Cairo for their help. My deep appreciation is extended to Mohamed Abul Amayem for sharing his unrivaled knowledge of Cairo with me, and Ahmad ‘Ali Gabr for his patient assistance in surveying and drawing. Thanks are also due to the many tolerant Cairenes who allowed me to measure their homes and workshops. I am forever in debt to my wife, Salima Ikram, for her unflagging support over the many years it took to bring this work to fruition. 1 See Ministry of Culture, Arab Republic of Egypt, Historic Cairo (Cairo: Supreme Council of Antiquities, 2002). See also UNESCO, International Symposium on the Restoration and Conservation of Islamic Cairo (Paris, UNESCO World Heritage Centre Working Document, 2002), 2 n. 2 (http://www.unesco.org/whc/ events/cairo0202.pdf).
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historic or architectural significance that are either not registered on the Index of Monuments, or were registered subsequent to its publication in 1947 (a total of 136 buildings).2 For example, buildings such as the mosque of al-Shuhada (U6) are not listed monuments but merit incorporation on the map by virtue of their historic and architectural importance. Other structures, such as the mosque of al-Rifa‘i (U103) or the Islamic Museum (U46) have been registered only in the last fifty years but have not been numbered in sequence with the 1947 Index. The numbering system employed here uses the numbers of the 1947 Index for registered monuments still standing, numbers in parentheses for deregistered or destroyed monuments, and a separate U-prefix series of numbers for both unregistered buildings and buildings registered after 1947. The choice of which of the multitude of unregistered buildings to represent has been a personal one, and can by no means be considered definitive. The decision of how best to represent this information was influenced in no small part by the map of Rome published by Giambattista Nolli in 1748. This plan replaced the traditional perspectival or iconographic view of the city with a systematic ichnographic representation in which a clearly legible distinction is made between public and private spaces for the first time. In Nolli’s work, the plans of all public buildings (such as churches) are shown so that they can be understood as interior spaces in continuity with the streets and squares that figure the city. Private space, within urban blocks, is shown with dense hatching that provides a strong visual contrast (a ‘ground’ for the figuration) and analogue for ‘closed’ areas. Nolli’s plan of Rome was the result of an enormous collaborative survey begun in 1736, and it includes a series of indexes that refer to the various monuments, workshops, vineyards, and gardens to be found within the city. The map that is published here fortunately did not have to start from a tabula rasa, but I have employed a similar graphic convention to distinguish between monuments, or significant structures, and the remainder of the urban fabric. The absolute distinction between private and public space on Nolli’s plan has, however, been eroded in two ways. First: the buildings that are shown include prominent examples of domestic architecture; second: not all new public buildings (such as modern mosques, generally of little architectural interest) are shown. This is, nevertheless, the first time that Cairo has been mapped in such a manner at a scale that permits the viewer not only to relate individual monuments to their context, but also to appreciate how they relate to one another in some detail.
2 For the complex process of registering Islamic Monuments in Cairo, see A. El Habashi and N. Warner, “Recording the Monuments of Cairo: An Introduction and Overview,” Annales Islamologiques 32 (1998), 81–99. The collection of data included here on deregistered monuments was assisted by a grant from the Barakat Trust (UK).
P R E F A C E
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It was always intended that the map should depict the current state of the urban fabric. To do this required the assembly of base maps. These were the 1:500-scale Cadastral Survey maps published by the Survey of Egypt in the 1930s, supplemented by 1:1000-scale city maps from the 1912 and subsequent editions for peripheral areas and information absent from the Cadastral Survey. As work progressed, however, it became clear that many more changes in this fabric than expected had occurred since the base maps were drawn. These alterations take the form of new setbacks in building lines and isolated new urban units of a standard pattern (mainly schools or residential blocks). The overall street pattern, however, has remained relatively unaffected. Such changes were documented through a walking survey and by reference to a 1:5000-scale series of maps of the city produced in the 1970s. This exercise also demonstrated the value of simultaneously documenting the earlier, now demolished, configuration of the city, which gave meaning to otherwise unintelligible surviving fragments. The map therefore uses the convention of a dotted line to represent vanished blocks and streets (as well as individual plans of ‘lost’ buildings). The result is a kind of cartographic palimpsest that can be read on two temporal levels: the city as it was at the turn of the twentieth century and as it is at the beginning of the twenty-first century. The collection of planimetric data for all the buildings included on the map, either through archival research or physical survey, has posed problems (and provided pleasures) throughout the duration of the work. These data were generally the ground plan of a structure, but in certain cases where an upper plan level provided more information about the nature and extent of the building, the upper-level plan was favored (as for example in the mosque of Sulayman Agha [no. 382] where the principal prayer space is found on the first floor). Where published plans were available, these were checked for accuracy and completeness and revised where necessary. Plans from the archives of the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe were similarly checked before inclusion on the map. A total of approximately sixty sites (including some registered monuments) that lacked architectural documentation were surveyed at their significant plan level, and the results incorporated into the map. In the case of a few buildings, access for survey purposes was denied. The footprints of these structures are simply shown as a densely hatched area—a convention shared with certain deregistered monuments that no longer exist but whose former whereabouts can be established with precision. Once the graphic material for the map had been assembled, the thirty-one individual map sheets were drawn by hand. My preference for hand-drawings over computerdrawings is personal, and not entirely rational. It was dictated by a desire to create a permanent and tangible product born of pen and ink, scalpel, and sweat. The material advantage of digital drawings, manifest in their flexibility of scale, ease of
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modification, and possibility of almost infinite adaptation were, for me, outweighed by the aesthetic of the hand-drawing, which largely depends for its effect on a certain visual irregularity; this in my mind mirrored the undoubted irregularity of what I was striving to represent. The map sheets are accompanied by a detailed text that gives descriptions, plan sources, and bibliographies, to the extent available, for all the represented buildings (identified by numbers). The latter includes both general information and specific references to the Bulletins of the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe, as well as publications on more recent preservation initiatives, for those interested in the conservation history of individual structures. Bibliographic references are generally limited to secondary sources in European languages, however, since the inclusion of references to khitat literature, waqf documents, and the corpus of Arabic scholarship fell outside the project’s parameters. Since the map was completed in March 2001, further publications have become available to the scholar of Islamic architectural history, some of which have been included in the bibliography. In an undertaking of this scale and complexity, however, there are bound to be omissions and errors for which I alone am responsible. The Monuments of Historic Cairo seeks to document those traces of the past that are evident in the city’s inherent structure and its architecture. ‘Traces’ is perhaps the best translation of the Arabic word athar, which is most frequently used to describe these fragments. Such an endeavor also has its own traces, and is part of a broader representational history. To place this work in its context, therefore, I have provided in the pages that follow a genealogy of the visual representation of the city of Cairo and its buildings through views, maps, and architectural renderings. These are the testament to encounters, spanning some six hundred years, between the city and a plethora of travelers, artists, cartographers, architects, and historians. Cities are in a state of continual evolution, however, and so this genealogy is also accompanied by a commentary on the main causes and effects of urban change in the modern period, particularly with regard to the built heritage of the city. Cairo is one of the great historic cities of the world, but it has often been neglected, perhaps because of its very size and complexity. I hope that this publication will make the city more accessible to those seeking to comprehend its past, and will enhance our present understanding of its morphology and architecture. Nicholas Warner Cairo, June 2004
P R E F A C E
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15
AL-QATA’I‘
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Introduction Cartography, Architecture, and Urbanism in Cairo, AD 1500–2000
Cartography: City Views and Plans
C
ities have been a source of fascination to their inhabitants since urban living first developed. One aspect of this fascination has been the representation of their outward appearance, whether by verbal or visual means. Cairo has proved no different in this respect from countless other cities throughout
the world, but has an added distinction in that it has for the past millennium been regarded as one of the preeminent cities of the Muslim world. Within its dense and complex matrix, the lives of sultans and slaves, scholars and soldiers, shaykhs and merchants unfolded over the centuries. Their histories can still be deciphered in the artifacts that survive them—perhaps most obviously in the buildings they constructed and the chronicles they composed. Muslim historians such as al-Maqrizi and Ibn Zahir compiled urban topographic descriptions (of a genre known as khitat after the word for ‘pieces’ or ‘parts’) that complemented the accounts of travelers like Nasiri Khusraw and Ibn Battuta. It fell, however, to a different tradition, which developed in Europe, to qualify such texts with images, providing representations of the city that are instantly appreciable to the eye. The first of the European views of Cairo were derived from an aerial and entirely imaginary vantage point. Perhaps the earliest coherent representation appears in the Tabulae Novae of the Florentine artist Pietro del Massaio’s three manuscript
versions of Ptolemy’s Geographia,1 executed from ca. 1458 to ca. 1472 (pl. 1). Cairo is part of a collection of encomiastic views that includes Jerusalem, Damascus, Constantinople, Adrianople, Alexandria, and Rome, as well as other Italian cities.
I would like to thank the Barakat Trust (UK) for supporting the research undertaken for this introduction and Jere Bacharach and Irene Bierman for commenting on its drafts. 1 Now in the Bibliothèque Nationale (MS Lat. 4802), and the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana (Vat. Lat. 5699 and Urb. Lat. 277). The different versions have variant details but share the same compositional character. See N. Miller, Mapping the City. The Language and Culture of Cartography in the Renaissance (London/New York: Continuum, 2003).
1
Fig. 1. Schematic plan of Historic Cairo and its surroundings (pre-1800) Author’s drawing.
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The city is viewed from the north, spread along the east bank of the Nile. It appears as a loose agglomeration of churches and castles with campaniles, rotundas, and pitched roofs around which runs a network of canals; a portion of the northern walls and the obelisk of Heliopolis are also included. Certain sites are identified by handwritten legends, namely the Balsam Gardens of Matariya to the north of the city, the Citadel, and the fortress of Babylon. The overall rendering is very much in the Italian style, and the entire topography remains suggestive rather than accurate. This conforms with the idea of ‘chorographic representation,’ defined by Ptolemy as a method of conveying the quality of place rather than an exactly measured physical reality. Massaio had never visited Egypt, and his work was extremely limited in its circulation. A much more widely accessible interpretation of Cairo’s topography, however, appeared before the century was out. In his book of 1486, the Peregrinationes in Terram Sanctam, a German pilgrim to the Holy Land, Canon Bernhard von Breydenbach, provided the first mass-produced image of the city on the periphery of a long woodblock-printed, folding panorama of the Fig. 2. Erhard Reuwich, Cairo. Detail from the panorama of Jerusalem in Bernhard von Breydenbach’s Peregrinationes in Terram Sanctam. Woodblock print, 27.5 x 128 cm in all. From 1911 facsimile of 1486 edition, Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
Near East that had Jerusalem as its primary focus (fig. 2).2 Breydenbach made his journey in 1483 in the company of an artist, Erhard Reuwich, who designed and subsequently printed the panorama. Given the obvious Christian interest in Cairo as a way station on the Holy Family’s flight into Egypt, the Christian pilgrimage sites of Matariya—the Pharaoh’s Fig Tree, the Balsam Gardens, and the Chapel of the Virgin
2 Bernhard von Breydenbach, Peregrinationes in Terram Sanctam (Mainz: E. Reuwich, 1486). For the significance of this map, see T. Campbell, The Earliest Printed Maps, 1472–1500 (London: British Library, 1987), 93–97. See also H.W. Davies, Bernhard von Breydenbach and His Journey to the Holy Land, 1483–4: A Bibliography (London: J. & J. Leighton, 1911).
2
I N T R O D U C T I O N
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Mary—feature prominently. Also evident is a relatively accurate understanding, gained through eyewitness experience, of the essential topographical relationships that existed between the various distinct components of the city as seen, in this case, from the north. The Citadel, Babylon, the principal urban nucleus of al-Qahira (or Chayru as it is here named), Bulaq, the Pyramids, and of course the Nile, are all labeled clearly among an otherwise random collection of domed structures and minarets. Breydenbach’s book was a bestseller, running to twelve editions in Latin, German, Flemish, French, and Spanish over a period of only eight years.3 More than half a century was to elapse before the next, far more ambitious and detailed, view of Cairo appeared in print. In 1549 the Venetian publisher Matteo Pagano, in collaboration with the painter and cartographer Giovanni Domenico Zorzi, produced a vast (nearly two meter by one meter) woodblock print in twenty-one sections of the city of Cairo (figs. 3a and 3b).4 This image continued the Renaissance tradition of depicting cities in paint and in print as viewed obliquely from the air.5 The format is horizontal, with the city seen from the west bank of the Nile. The locations of individual areas and elements of the city such as Azbakiya, the Bab Zuwayla, Husayniya, the aqueduct, and major roads are clearly indicated. Also depicted are peripheral sites such as the port of Bulaq, Old Cairo (which developed around the fortress of Babylon), the town of Giza on the west bank of the river, and the Pyramids. Natural features such as the Muqattam Hills to the east of the city and the island of Roda in the Nile are clearly visible. Within the urban conglomeration, some individual buildings stand out, such as the madrasa of Sultan Hasan. Major thoroughfares are distinguished, as is both the ancient canal (the Khalig al-Masri) and its more modern counterpart (the Khalig al-Nasiri) with their multiple bridges. The disposition of the northern and eastern walls of the city and the Citadel is indicative but topographically accurate. Pagano and Zorzi’s view, however, extends beyond a solely spatial representation of the city. Historical vignettes showing the arrival of the Ottoman army under Selim I at the gates of Cairo in 1517 give the work a specific temporal location as well. More prosaic quotidian scenes are also included, such as the harvesting of dates. The view is supplemented by text in the form of ‘captions,’ as with Breydenbach’s view, but with a much wider descriptive intent. These captions were interpreted at length in an accompanying Latin booklet.6
3 Davies, Bernhard von Breydenbach, xxxii. 4 Two studies are dedicated to this view: V. Meinecke-Berg, “Eine Stadtansicht des mamlukischen Kairo aus dem 16 Jahrhundert,” MDAIK 32 (1976): 113–32; and B. Blanc, S. Denoix, J.-C. Garcin, and R. Gordiani, “A propos de la carte du Caire de Matheo Pagano,” Annales Islamologiques 17 (1981): 203–85. See also N. Warner, “The True Description of Cairo”: A Sixteenth-Century View from Venice (Oxford: Arcadian Library–Oxford University Press, forthcoming). 5 See J. Schulz, “Jacopo de’ Barbari’s View of Venice: Map Making, City Views, and Moralized Geography before the Year 1500,” Art Bulletin 60 (1978): 425–74. 6 For this text and its attribution, see A. Codazzi, “Una ‘descrizione’ del Cairo di Guglielmo Postel,” in Studi di paleografia, diplomatica, storia e araldica in onore di Cesare Manaresi (Milan: Giuffrè, 1953), 169–206.
CARTOGRAPHY
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Scholars have disputed the precise date of Pagano’s view, since it appears to contain elements of the city as it would have been at the end of the fifteenth century in the time of Sultan Qaytbay. Following this contention, the vignettes of Selim’s conquest would have been added by Pagano to a preexisting ‘original’ view that has now disappeared: a not unreasonable suggestion. It has also been argued that an apparent topographical error in the placement of the aqueduct relative to the older nucleus of Babylon—Old Cairo—Fustat (the aqueduct is shown running to the south rather than to the north of this area) is in fact a correct representation of an aqueduct predating the
Fig. 3a. Matteo Pagano and Giovanni Domenico Zorzi, View of Cairo, 1549. Multi-sheet woodblock print, 98 x 197 cm. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kupferstichkabinett, 924–100. Fig. 3b. Detail of Pagano and Zorzi, View of Cairo at actual size, showing part of the central area of the city. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kupferstichkabinett, 924–100.
one that survives today. In the absence of any sound archaeological or textual evidence for the existence of the earlier aqueduct in the form shown on the Pagano view, this hypothesis is less convincing. It is far more likely that the aqueduct shown is that built by al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun in 1312–13, which was renovated and extended by Sultan al-Ghuri in 1506–7, and that it is simply located in the wrong position.7 The possibility also exists that Pagano’s view is a copy (with later additions) of one of the now-vanished views of Cairo that were created for Francesco II Gonzaga’s palace in Gonzaga (1493–97) or the Palazzo di San Sebastiano in Mantua (1506–12).8
7 See K.A.C. Creswell, The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 2: Ayyubids and Early Bahrite Mamluks, AD 1171–1326 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1959), 255–59. 8 M. Bourne, “Francesco II Gonzaga and Maps as Palace Decoration in Renaissance Mantua,” Imago Mundi 51 (1999): 51–58.
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This is more plausible, although once again decisive documentary proof is lacking. What distinguishes the view, regardless of its precise date of origin and authorship, is the appearance of Cairo as a dense mass of buildings, including numerous mosques, tombs, and palaces, and the relative accuracy of its represented topography. Here for the first time was an image of an eastern city, conveying a sense of its scale and complexity, to rival the historic centers of Europe. Although Pagano and Zorzi’s view of Cairo survives today in only two impressions, its influence was enormous. Through numerous recensions in different formats (none as large as the original), 9 it remained in circulation for the subsequent two hundred years as the unchallenged image of what was still, after the Ottoman conquest, the largest city in the Middle East and North Africa. A contrasting alternative depiction of Cairo, from a real rather than an imaginary viewpoint, did not appear in print until the eighteenth century. This view, realized from the Muqattam Hills that border the city to the east, was first recorded by an Italian pilgrim named Brocardo in 1556.10 Brocardo even included himself in the view, sketching the great city before him. The watercolor he produced is another large panorama, stretching from Babylon in the south to Matariya in the north (pl. 2).11 Although not signaled by annotation, many different urban components are clearly visible in the view, situated within a landscape that is bisected by the River Nile and sparsely scattered with palms and other trees. Babylon, the island of Roda, the southern and eastern cemeteries, the Khalig al-Masri, Khalig al-Nasiri, Azbakiya, Husayniya, Bulaq, and Matariya are all recognizable. Major thoroughfares crossing and encircling the city are also included, the most comprehensible of which are the Qasaba, Shari‘ Saliba, the Darb al-Ahmar, the routes through the cemeteries, and the road to Bulaq from the Bab al-Bahr. Many individual buildings in the view, such as the Nilometer, the aqueduct (shown here in its correct position) and pumping station, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, the mosques of al-Azhar and Ibn Tulun, and the city gates and walls can also be identified by virtue of their physiognomy and location. In general, courtyard mosques seem to be represented as open squares with minarets of the tiered, Mamluk, variety. The vantage point of the Muqattam Hills used by Brocardo was also employed in the early eighteenth century by the French Jesuit father Claude Sicard in his view of
9 The most significant of these, dating from the sixteenth century, are: Ferrando Bertelli, Civitatum aliquot insigniorum et locorum munitorum exacta delineatio. Disegni, alcune più illustri città e fortezze del mondo, Ferrando Bertelli formis (Venice, 1568?); Georg Braun and Frans Hogenberg, Civitates Orbis Terrarum, vol. 1, pl. 55 (Cologne, 1572); Sebastian Münster, Cosmographia (Basel, 1574); Matteo Florimi, Cairus, quae olim Babylon; Aegypti maxima urbs (Siena?, 1590?). 10 The only study thus far is that of L. Micara, “Il Cairo nella ‘Chorographia’ di Pellegrino Brocardi (1556),” in Il mondo islamico: Immagini e ricerche, Storia della città 46 (Milan, Electa: 1989): 7–18. 11 Archivio di Stato di Torino, Carte topografiche e fortificazioni, vol. 2 of 5 (J.b.I.4 folio 10).
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the city. Sicard’s rendering is cruder than Brocardo’s, and less informative (pl. 3). Babylon, the nucleus of the city of al-Qahira, Bulaq, and Matariya are shown, and a few individual structures can be distinguished, such as the obelisk at Matariya, the Citadel, the aqueduct and pumping station, the Nilometer, and the fortress of Babylon. The rendering of mosques and minarets remains schematic. Although Sicard’s view of Cairo, which survives in two manuscript copies,12 remained unpublished (as did Brocardo’s), an imitation of it was printed in 1754 by another French Jesuit who had spent time in Egypt: Claude-Louis Fourmont. His Carte Topographique vue en perspective des plaines d’Héliopolis et de Memphis is a copper engraving folded within his book on Cairo (fig. 4).13 Despite its obvious antiquarian bias, this view provides a clear image of a contemporary Cairo that had shrunk in physical extent since the sixteenth century. A numbered key that accompanies the view lists seventy-two separate elements of the city, ranging from individual buildings to public spaces.
12 Plan topographique des environs du Caire et la montagne des momies au Caire, 1718, Service Historique de la Marine, atlas 64, carte 13; Carte autographe du Caire, 1715, Bibliothèque Nationale, Département des Cartes et Plans Rés Ge C.5132. 13 C.-L. Fourmont, Description historique et géographique des plaines d’Héliopolis ou de Memphis (Paris: Duchesne, 1754).
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Fig. 4. Claude-Louis Fourmont, Carte Topographique vue en perspective des plaines d’Heliopolis et de Memphis, detail, 1754. Copper engraving, total dimensions 33.3 x 52 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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All of the views of Cairo described thus far are precisely that: views. They represent the city on a tilted ground plane, without the foreshortening demanded by the laws of perspective. This was done deliberately in order to afford the viewer a glimpse of the interior of the city with its principal streets and to bring more distant objects into focus. Although each view attests to a good general topographic understanding of the city and its salient architectural features, none can be considered to be a map in the ichnographic tradition.14 One last image in this category deserves mention, as it stems from the Ottoman, rather than European, tradition of representing the city. This is the group of views of Cairo that are to be found in the various surviving manuscripts of the Kitab i Bahriye, or ‘Book of Maritime Matters,’ first composed by the Ottoman admiral Piri Reis in 1521. The Kitab i Bahriye, based in part on Italian and Spanish portolan charts, was intended primarily to provide mariners with useful information for the navigation of the Mediterranean. It also contains bird’s-eye views of a number of ports around the Mediterranean and a chart of the Nile extending as far south as Cairo, which was still at the time an important entrepôt. Cairo was familiar territory to Piri Reis, since he had sailed up the river with the Ottoman fleet to assist in Selim I’s attack on the capital of Egypt in 1517. Some thirty-eight extant manuscripts of Piri Reis’s work survive, spanning three centuries of production, and they present at least two different views of Cairo with variant details.15 One version shows a rambling collection of pitch-roofed buildings without any enclosure (pl. 4); the other—a more elaborated image devised by book illustrators—shows the city enclosed by walls (pl. 5). In the first version, Cairo’s mosques are in the Ottoman style, with characteristic Ottoman minarets, while the second portrays them more accurately in tiered, Mamluk style. Both versions view the city from the north and have details in common with contemporary European views, such as the aqueduct and its pumping station, the Khalig al-Masri, the Citadel, Bulaq, and the Muqattam Hills. Some elements, however, such as the mausoleum of Imam Shafi‘i in the southern cemetery (with its unmistakable boat-shaped finial), are not to be found among the Western representations. Also distinctive is the collection of different Nile boats that decorate the landscape together with palm trees. Piri Reis’s manuscript views of Cairo seem to have remained in the hands of mariners or connoisseurs of book illumination and therefore were less influential than the more widely distributed European printed images of the city.
14 See J.A. Pinto, “Origins and Development of the Ichnographic City Plan,” Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 35 (1978): 35–50. 15 For the most complete survey of the activities of Piri Reis, see S. Soucek, “Islamic Charting in the Mediterranean,” in J.B. Harley and D. Woodward, The History of Cartography, 2 vols. in 3 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1987–94), vol. 2, book 2: Cartography in the Traditional East and Southeast Asian Societies (1994), 265–79. See also S. Soucek, Piri Reis and Turkish Mapmaking after Columbus: The Khalili Portolan Atlas. (London: Nour Foundation-Azimuth Editions–Oxford University Press, 1996), 149–58.
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Previous page: Plate 1. Cairus, from the Tabulae Novae of Pietro del Massaio’s manuscript of the Geographia of Ptolemy, ca. 1470. Pigment with gilding on vellum, 60 x 40 cm. Département des Manuscrits, Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, Ms Lat. 4802, fol. 135v. Left: Plate 2. Top left: Pellegrino Brocardo, View of Cairo, 1556 (detail). Watercolor on paper, 63 x 173 cm. Archivio di Stato di Torino Carte e Fortificazioni (J.b.I.4), fol. 10. Plate 3. Bottom left: Claude Sicard, Carte Autographe du Caire, 1715. Pen and pencil with watercolor on paper, 78 x 130 cm. Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, Département des Cartes et Plans, Rés Ge C. 5132.
Plate 4. The Nile at Cairo, with a panoramic view of the city. From the Khalili Portolan Atlas, ca. 1670, based on the first and second versions of the Kitab i Bahriye of Piri Reis. Watercolor on paper, 33 x 46 cm. Ottoman Turkey, (Ms 718, fols. 48b-49a). The Nour Foundation, London.
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Plate 5. View of Cairo, from the Kitab i Bahriye by Piri Reis, mid- to late-seventeenth century. Opaque watercolor on paper, 68.2 x 34.1 cm. The Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, W 658, fol. 304r
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In the mid-eighteenth century, oblique views began to be replaced by more exact cartographic representations. One of the initiators of this process was an English clergyman, Richard Pococke, who briefly visited Cairo in 1736. Although Pococke, like his Jesuit counterparts, was interested primarily in the pharaonic antiquities of Egypt, he subsequently published the first ‘plan’ of the city and its environs in his Description of The East, And Some other Countries.16 Crude and small though it is, Pococke’s is the first map of the city in which most of the vertical
16 R. Pococke, A Description of The East, And Some other Countries, Volume the First: Observations on Egypt (London: W. Boyer, 1743), pl. 7.
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Fig. 5. Richard Pococke, Chorograph of Grand Cairo, 1743. Copper engraving, 31 x 35 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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projection of buildings is replaced with a horizontally scaled plan (fig. 5). Pococke calls it a “Chorograph”—almost certainly a deliberate antiquarian echo of Ptolemy’s distinction between chorography and geography. The settlements of Old Cairo, Giza, and Bulaq are all included, together with the Citadel and the aqueduct, as well as features such as the Muqattam Hills and the Khalig al-Masri. Another traveler with scientific interests was in Egypt at the same time as Pococke: the Danish naval captain, Frederik Norden. Like Pococke, Norden was more interested in Egypt’s pharaonic past than its Islamic remains, but unlike his contemporary, Norden never lived to see the publication of his Travels in Egypt and Nubia. This finally appeared in Danish in 1755, and it was swiftly followed by French and English editions.17 Although Norden failed to document the city of Cairo with a map, he did, however, produce a plan of the island of Roda18 and its environs while convalescing in Cairo for four months (fig. 6). This presents the gardens of Roda in great detail, but little else, and suggests that Norden did not stray too far from the Nile during his illness. One small detail is of greater interest: a plan of the mouth of the Khalig al-Masri as it was arranged for the annual ‘Cutting of the Canal’ ceremony—the breaching of the dike that was built annually across the canal that led into the city, allowing the Nile’s flood waters to flow along its course and fill the urban lakes.19 More informative than the maps of either Pococke or Norden was that produced by another Dane: Carsten Niebuhr. Niebuhr was a member, and the only survivor, of an expedition that left Copenhagen in 1761 under royal patronage with the goal Fig. 6. Frederik Norden, Plan de l’Isle de Rodda, avec ses Environs, 1757. Copper engraving, 37 x 23.5 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
of carrying out a scientific exploration of Egypt, Arabia, and Syria. His plan of Cairo was ultimately published in 1774 as a copper engraving.20 Titled “Ichnographic Plan of the City of Cairo and the Towns of Bulaq, Masr al-‘Atika, and Giza,”21 the map has two scales and a north-point upon it (fig. 7). East is shown at the top and the Nile is at the bottom, an orientation shared by the Pagano view. The relative positions of all settlements are given, as are cemeteries and hills.
17 Travels in Egypt and Nubia by Frederick Lewis Norden F.R.S. Captain of the Danish Navy. Translated from the Original Published by command of his Majesty the King of Denmark. And enlarged with observations from the ancient and modern authors, that have written on the Antiquities of Egypt, by Dr. Peter Templeman in Two Volumes, 2 vols. (London: Davis & Reymens, 1757). The plates used in this edition are the same as those in the contemporary French edition. 18 Norden, Travels in Egypt and Nubia, vol 1, pl. 24. 19 The ‘Well of Joseph’ in the Citadel, which Norden describes in detail, is marked in error as lying to the south of the aqueduct. 20 C. Niebuhr, Reisebeschreibung nach Arabien und andern umliegenden Ländern. 2 vols. (Copenhagen: Nicolaus Möller, 1774–78). The French edition appeared almost simultaneously: Description de l’Arabie; faite sur des observations propres et des airs recueillis dans les lieux mêmes par Carsten Niebuhr, 3 vols. (Amsterdam and Utrecht: S.Y. Baalde & J. van Schoonhoven, 1774–80). 21 Niebuhr, Description de l’Arabie, “Urbis Káhira nec non oppidorum Bulák, Masr el Atîk et Dsjîse Ichnographia,” pl. 13. This was accompanied by a long explanatory text titled “Description des Villes de Káhira, Bulák, Masr el Atîk et Dsjîse,” 86–106.
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Fields are differentiated from swamps or sandbanks: the lakes of Azbakiya and Birkat al-Fil are shown out of season, when they were used as pastures. This was the first time any attempt had been made to include the latter on a map. Niebuhr also attempted to represent some of the bewildering interior of the city and its maze of streets. Not only is this topographic detail recorded graphically, but the map also provides numerical and alphabetical keys: numbers from 1 to 55 record principal buildings, while letters from A to Z indicate significant urban elements. Bridges over the Khalig al-Masri (14), lakes (9), and city gates (31) are separately indexed. All names are provided in these lists in Arabic as well, which more than compensates for the slightly arbitrary and rather minimal naming of places and buildings on the map itself. The general accuracy of Niebuhr’s map is remarkable considering that he was working on it for such a short time and largely alone. He comments on the difficulty of his task: Fig. 7. Carsten Niebhur, Urbis Káhira nec non oppidorum Bulák, Masr el Atîk et Dsjîse Ichnographia, 1774. Copper engraving, 28.6 x 48.3 cm; approximate scale 1:12,500. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
L’exécution de ce plan étoit si pénible, et l’insolence comme des habitans de Káhira envers tout ceux, qui professent une Réligion différente de la leur, la rendoit si dangereuse, que je doute, qu’aucun Européen l’ait jamais enterprise, ou l’entreprenne de sitôt. J’ai pourtant hazardé de mesurer par pas toutes les rues, savoir celles, qui ont deux issues, et d’en déterminer la position au moyen d’un petit compas. Entre ces rues principales on trouve beaucoup de quartiers quelques-uns sont composés d’un grand nombre de petites rues, mais qui toutes n’ont qu’une seule issue, par où elles aboutissent à quelqu’une des rues principales.22 This is also, incidentally, one of the earliest and clearest descriptions of the physical structure of Cairo’s agglomeration of distinct haras, or networks of deadend streets. In the event, it took military action before a more detailed survey of Cairo could be made. When Napoleon assembled his forces for the invasion of Egypt in 1798, among them was a small army of scientists (including surveyors) and artists whose task it was to make a minute record of Egypt’s present condition and past glory. Once disembarked at Alexandria, the French expedition had both the scientific means and the qualified personnel required to produce the next milestone in the cartographic history of Cairo: the maps that are contained within the
22 Niebuhr, Description de l’Arabie, 88.
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Fig. 8. Plan général de Boulâq, du Kaire, de l’île de Roudah, du Vieux-Kaire, et de Gyzeh, from the Description de l’Egypte, État Moderne I, pl. 15, 1809. Copper engraving, 38 x 52 cm; approximate scale 1:20,000. Author’s collection.
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monumental Description de l’Égypte.23 These four maps, all of which appeared in the first volume of the État Moderne series, covered not only the dense historic core of the city but outlying areas as well. They were: a general key map of Bulaq, Cairo, Old Cairo, Roda, and Giza (fig. 8), a detailed map of Old Cairo, Roda, and Giza (fig. 9), a detailed map of Bulaq (fig. 10) and, most important for students of the city’s topography, a detailed map of Cairo (figs. 11a and 11b).24 The key map clearly shows the different nuclei of the city as they were related to the River Nile when the water level was at its lowest. Cairo is shown with the lakes of Azbakiya and Birkat al-Fil within it, as are Bulaq, Old Cairo and Babylon, Imbaba, and Giza. Islands and sandbanks within the river are also distinguished. The more detailed maps of Cairo, Bulaq, and Old Cairo-Roda-Giza have numerous features worthy of remark, of which a few will be highlighted here. The depiction of the port of Bulaq shows a multitude of riverside warehouses backed up by a tier of wikalas (urban caravanserai), as well as a straight, French-built, tree-lined avenue leading east to Cairo. This was the first time that a specific map had been drawn of this area, which was obviously quite a sizable town independent of, though related to, the Fig. 9. Plan particulier de l’île de Roudah, du VieuxKaire, et de Gyzeh, from the Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne I, pl. 16, 1809 (detail). Copper engraving, 57 x 93 cm; approximate scale 1:5000. Author’s collection. Fig. 10. Plan particulier de Boulâq, from the Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne I, pl. 24, 1809 (detail). Copper engraving, 38 x 52 cm; approximate scale 1:5000. Author’s collection.
main city.25 The map of Old Cairo, Roda, and Giza shows the latter as a separately walled precinct connected to Roda by a pontoon bridge. The fortress of Babylon with its surviving Roman towers can also be discerned on this map.26 In order to execute the detailed map of Cairo, which was the most complex part of the survey, the surveyors established a base line measured by chain, and triangulated 54 points: mosque minarets or positions located on high ground.27 The city was then divided into eight distinct areas; their divisions are shown on the map and follow major arteries or minaret triangulation points. The latter provided the essential references for the subsequent street-by-street chain survey. This map of Cairo constitutes the first systematic record of the system of haras that made up the fabric of the city, the first precise depiction of the extent of the fortifications of the city and the Citadel, and the most detailed image of
23 Description de l’Égypte, ou recueil des observations et des recherches qui ont été faites en Égypte pendant l’expédition de l’Armée Française publié par les ordres de sa Majesté l’Empereur Napoléon le Grand. (Paris: Imprimerie Impériale, 1809–22). For an analysis of the cartographic output of the French Expedition, see G. Alleame, “Entre l’inventaire du territoire et la construction de la mémoire: L’oeuvre cartographique de l’expédition d’Égypte,” in P. Bret, ed., L’Expédition d’Égypte: Une enterprise des Lumières, 1798–1801, Actes du colloque international organisé par l’Académie des inscriptions et belles-lettres et l’Académie des sciences, sous les auspices de l’Institut de France et du Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, 8–10 juin 1998 (Paris: Technique et Documentation: 1999), 279–96. 24 The general plan is drawn at scale of approximately 1:20,000; the detailed plans at a scale of approximately 1:5000. 25 The only study of this area to date is N. Hanna, An Urban History of Bulaq in the Mamluk and Ottoman Periods, Cahiers des Annales Islamologiques 3 (Cairo: IFAO, 1983). 26 The area of the fortress further elaborated can also be seen in the more detailed plan that accompanies a perspective view in the Description de l’Égypte, Antiquités V, pl. 20. 27 See Canvas trigonométrique du Kaire, 1:2,500, Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne II, pt. 2, 58.
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how the urban mass was situated within the surrounding landscape. The urban interventions that were made by the French during their short stay in Egypt were also faithfully recorded, such as the regularization of the perimeter of the lake of Azbakiya and a street cut through from Azbakiya to the Khalig al-Masri (the beginnings of Shari‘ al-Muski). The three detailed maps in the series included numerical keys for buildings as well as for streets, squares, and other sites of importance. These were listed by name in Arabic with a transliteration in the accompanying text volume.28 A search for the exact location of any numbered structure on the map was facilitated by the use of a grid. Although the material for the Description maps was collected in the years 1798–1800, the maps themselves remained unpublished until 1809, partly because of the magnitude of the task of printing the entire opus, which took twenty years to complete. These maps are a testament not only to the efforts of those who surveyed and drew them, but also to the skill of the engravers who scaled down the original drawings and prepared them for print. A convention of closely spaced diagonal hatched lines was used to represent built-up areas. Within this matrix, on the detailed map of Cairo, some of the largest buildings are also shown in plan.29 Cemeteries, field systems, bodies of Fig. 11a. Plan particulier de la ville, from the Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne I, pl. 26, 1809. Copper engraving, 60 x 93 cm; approximate scale 1:5000. Author’s collection.
water, hills, and other variations in the landscape are all shown. Each map has both magnetic and true North indicated, together with drawn scales. Once the maps of the Description had been published, they established a new level of accuracy in the cartographic representation of a city that was to change dramatically in the coming century, partly as a result of the continuing and growing
Opposite: Fig. 11b. Detail of the Plan particulier de la ville at actual size. 28 See Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne II, pt. 2, 589–657 (407 sites in Cairo and 105 in the Citadel); 755–61 (269 sites in Bulaq); 762–63 (52 sites in Old Cairo). 29 These include the mosques of al-Zahir Baybars, al-Hakim, al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, and Ibn Tulun, the funerary complex of Qawsun (in the southern cemetery), and the Hall of Justice and mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad (in the Citadel).
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presence of Europeans in Egypt. One agent of that change was a French engineer, Pierre-Louis Grand, in the employ of Khedive Isma‘il, who in 1874 assembled the first specialized map of the city’s core that presented significant urban monuments (all religious) in detail. Grand’s map was printed in color at a scale of 1:4000 on four sheets (pl. 6). It showed Cairo not simply as it was but as it was intended to be after new avenues were cut through the fabric of the old city; most of these planned projects were never executed.30 The most important (in historic or aesthetic terms) Islamic, Christian, and Jewish religious monuments of the city were differentiated by coloring and notation (numbers for the mosques, letters for churches and synagogues). Other public buildings were named directly on the map. The significance of Grand’s map for the history of recording the monuments of the city was confirmed by its rapid adoption as a reference by the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe.31 The Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe, henceforth referred to as the Comité, played a crucial role in the documentation and preservation of the monuments of Cairo. Their work touched on many aspects of the development of the historic city, and indeed was vital in the development of the very concept of a historic city. The Comité was founded in December 1881, by decree of Khedive Tawfiq, as a body within the Ministry of Endowments (wizarat al-awqaf) responsible for ‘Arab Monuments.’ One of the tasks with which this organization was charged was drawing up a complete inventory of these monuments (which ultimately was extended to include Coptic sites as well) in Egypt. The Comité remained active until 1953, when it was subsumed into the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation (now the Supreme Council of Antiquities), which is today responsible for all the monuments of Egypt, regardless of period. In purely cartographic terms, the legacy of the Comité is evident in two maps of Cairo, dated 1924 and 1950, published at a scale of 1:5000. These maps were crossreferenced to expanding indexes of monuments that had been registered as antiquities since the organization came into existence. The 1924 map was produced by the Survey of Egypt on behalf of the Comité and is the first large-scale map of Cairo’s ‘Mohammedan Monuments’ in English (pl. 7). The map, comprising two sheets, uses color to differentiate buildings by period: red for Fatimid, dark brown for Ayyubid, and blue for Mamluk. No Ottoman monuments are numbered, although many are indicated by name and shown in a darker brown than the surrounding urban fabric. An accompanying index was compiled by the architectural historian K.A.C. Creswell.32 As
30 See J.L. Abu-Lughod, Cairo: 1001 Years of the City Victorious (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1971), 111, pl. 13. 31 See A. el-Habashi and N. Warner, “Recording the Monuments of Cairo: An Introduction and Overview,” Annales Islamologiques 32 (1998): 81–99. 32 K.A.C. Creswell, “A Brief Chronology of the Muhammadan Monuments of Egypt to AD 1517,” BIFAO 16 (1919): 39–164.
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far as the periphery of the city is concerned, the map does not extend as far south as Old Cairo, and the eastern and southern cemeteries are included as two separate inserts, unlike the subsequent map of 1950 (pl. 8). This latter map, which is still available today in its Arabic impression (though both English and Arabic versions were initially printed), is the current standard reference for the location and identification of all the Islamic monuments of Cairo. It follows the basic design of its predecessor, although for the first time registered buildings from the Ottoman period were numbered, and the structures of other periods were more precisely defined. The map is linked to numerical, chronological, and alphabetical indexes that were published separately in 1947. Grand’s map, and the maps of Mohammedan Monuments that followed, were manifestations of a late nineteenth-century trend toward the production of maps with a more specialized purpose. Such maps were also produced to fulfill demands other than the purely historical or architectural. Commercial interests were responsible for one of the most remarkable series of maps of the city’s interior: the collection of fire insurance plans produced by the English company of Charles Goad in 1905.33 The Goad plans were designed for insurance companies to assess risk on property, and the information about these buildings was therefore provided at a large scale (the metric equivalent of 1:600), using color codes for building types and an exacting system of annotation that gave details of the construction of each structure (pl. 9). Separate indexes were drawn up for street names, block numbers, buildings by type, and companies, providing an invaluable record of the city and urban land use at the turn of the century. Although Goad planned to include most of the area of the historic city in his coverage, the execution of these plans was eventually limited to the newly built ‘European-style’ portion of the city (called Isma‘iliya after Khedive Isma‘il), and the area along Shari‘ Muski extending east to Shari‘ Mu‘izz. In the absence of sufficient commercial interest, Goad’s maps of Cairo were never updated as they were for Alexandria—the only other city in Egypt for which Goad provided insurance coverage. This process involved the periodic recall of map sheets from subscribing insurance companies and the pasting of revision slips over areas on the map that had undergone significant rebuilding or change of use. In the twentieth century, the most widely distributed plans of cities in Egypt were those produced by the Survey of Egypt.34 First established in 1898 during the British
33 See N. Warner, “Charles Goad and the Fire Insurance Plans of Egypt, 1898–1910,” in M. Volait, ed., Le Caire–Alexandrie: Architectures européennes, 1850–1950, Études Urbaines 5 (Cairo: IFAO, 2001), 219–31. 34 For primary sources on the Survey of Egypt, see H.G. Lyons, The Cadastral Survey of Egypt, 1892–1907 (Cairo: National Printing Department, 1908), and G.W. Murray, The Survey of Egypt, 1898–1948, Survey Department Paper 50 (Cairo: Ministry of Finance-Survey of Egypt, 1950).
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Protectorate as part of the Ministry of Public Works, the Survey of Egypt carried out topographical and cadastral surveys of Cairo, which were published initially at scales of 1:10,000, 1:5000, and 1:2000.35 The first edition of a map series at a scale of 1:1000 (in color, on 310 sheets) appeared in 1912 (pl. 10 and fig. 12). These are tremendously valuable for any study of the urban development of the city, since they define its built area more precisely than ever before and name all public buildings and streets in English and Arabic. The subsequent editions increased the overall geographic coverage of the city but were printed in black and white, thereby reducing their legibility. The 1924 and 1948 Comité Maps of Mohammedan Monuments were divided into squares that correlate directly with this 1:1000 series and were furthermore keyed to this set of maps by square reference. From 1935 onward,36 these maps were superseded by even more detailed plans of individual blocks of the city showing plot outlines and building footprints, which were printed in black and white at a scale of 1:500: the famous Cadastral Survey, continually extended until 1960, by which time a total of 1,334 individual map sheets had been amassed (pl. 11 and fig. 13). These maps have yet to be surpassed in the level of detailed information that is inscribed upon them. Since they were not updated after production ceased in 1960, however, they are no longer a true reflection of the condition of the built fabric of the city. This brief survey has attempted to summarize the cartographic sources that exist for the study of Historic Cairo. These sources span half a millennium, and they demonstrate the remarkable extent to which the city’s urban configuration has resisted change, at least as far as its core is concerned. The city presented by Pagano in his bird’s-eye view of 1549 has the same essential structure that was surveyed by the French in 1789 and that is presented in this publication (fig. 14). In the sixteenth century, Pagano and Brocardo used different viewpoints in their depictions of the city—the first imaginary and the second real—yet each provides a complementary vision of its scale and density. The shift from oblique to planar representations was accomplished by the end of the eighteenth century. Since then, more detailed maps have served an increasingly diverse group of users ranging from architectural historians to insurance assessors and government tax inspectors, each of whom had specialist needs. The direct result of this cartographic activity is that the city of Cairo today has a remarkably rich and varied corpus of material with which to document urban change.
35 For a comprehensive account of the Survey of Egypt, or the Egyptian Survey Authority as it became in 1971, and more recent maps, see J.-L. Arnaud, Cartographie de l’Égypte: Supplément à la lettre d’information no. 16, Observatoire urbain du Caire contemporain, (Cairo: CEDEJ, 1989), esp. 19–21 and 54–58. 36 Murray, Survey of Egypt, 28.
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Plate 6. Pierre-Louis Grand, Plan GĂŠnĂŠral de la Ville du Caire, 1874 (detail). Hand-colored copper engraving on two sheets, total dimensions 142 x 145 cm; scale 1:4000. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Plate 7. Map of Cairo Showing Mohammedan Monuments, 1924. Colored steel engraving, on two sheets, each 68 x 104 cm; scale 1:5000. Author’s collection. The detail, reproduced here at actual size, shows the center of the Fatimid city with a reconstruction, by Paul Ravaisse, of the location of the Fatimid Eastern and Western Palaces.
Plate 8. Map of Cairo Showing Mohammedan Monuments, 1950. Colored steel engraving, two sheets, each 68 x 104 cm; scale 1:5000. Author’s collection. The detail, reproduced here at actual size, shows the same area as seen at pl. 7, but with the inclusion of numerous buildings from the Ottoman period.
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Plate 9. Opposite, bottom left: Charles Goad, Fire Insurance Plan of Cairo, sheet 13, 1905. Hand-colored steel engraving, 63 x 53 cm; scale 1:600. Author’s collection. This shows the area to the south and west of the mosque of al-Ashraf Barsbay (no. 175) before the construction of Shari‘ al-Azhar. Plate 10. Opposite, top: Survey of Egypt, sheet 41K, surveyed in 1912 and printed in 1933. Colored steel engraving, 48 x 48 cm; scale 1:1000. Author’s collection. The detail shows part of the Darb al-Ahmar and the Suq al-Silah. Plate 11. Opposite, bottom right: Detail of key plan of 1:500 Survey of Egypt cadastral plans of Cairo, undated [ca. 1951]. Colored steel engraving, 75 x 105 cm; scale 1:10,000. Author’s collection. The area within the black rectangle is that covered by the map sheets in this volume. Fig. 12. Left: Key to 1:1000 Survey of Egypt plans of Cairo (1912). Fig. 13. Below: Survey of Egypt, Cadastral Plan, sheet 223, surveyed in 1937 and printed in 1951. Steel engraving, 62 x 65 cm; scale 1:500. Author’s collection. The plan shows the area around the junction of the Darb al-Ahmar and the Suq al-Silah.
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Architecture: From Representation to Re-presentation Within the city of Cairo stand numerous buildings of great significance for the history of Islamic architecture (fig 15). These have been the object of scholarly study since at least the time of the Description de l’Égypte. The architectural representation of such buildings has its own history, however, which has received considerably less attention. This representational history unsurprisingly follows a trajectory that is similar to that of urban cartography, where the imprecision of the encomiastic sketch made in absentia was replaced over time by representations of increasing sophistication, detail, and scope that were produced by travelers who had actually seen what they were drawing. As is also the case with cartography, explicit architectural drawings from the Muslim world that describe the appearance of particular structures are rare.37 Instead, words are used to convey such information, in this case through the physical descriptions found in topographical works (khitat) and endowment deeds (waqf). The interest of Europeans in the buildings of Cairo focused initially on the remains of Christian pilgrimage sites around Matariya. These travelers also took notice of what one might term the mirabilia of Egypt: remarkable structures such as the Pyramids of Giza and the Nilometer of Roda. Manuscript material describing less monumental structures is sparse. One example is a drawing contained in the travel diary of Alessandro Magno, a Venetian trader who visited Cairo in 1560, which portrays the interior of a Cairene house (seen in sectional perspective) containing a typical tripartite reception room (qa‘a), complete with its sunken area (durqa‘a) and an inlaid marble fountain, with another wall fountain (salsabil) to one side (fig. 16). The Venetians, who dominated maritime trade in the Mediterranean, were the most frequent European visitors to the East; what they saw in countries such as Egypt and Syria undoubtedly influenced their own artistic and architectural production.38 Among the corpus of bird’s-eye views of the city, dating from the sixteenth to the seventeenth century, a few individual buildings and urban spaces are distinguishable. Of course, buildings that stand apart from their context are far easier to identify
37 For traditions of architectural representation in the Muslim world, see R. Holod, “Text, Plan and Building: On the Transmission of Architectural Knowledge,” in M. Sˇevcˇenko, ed., Theories and Principles of Design in the Architecture of Islamic Societies, (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1988), 1–12. See also G. Necipoglu-Kafadar, “Plans and Models in Fifteenth- and Sixteenth-Century Ottoman Architectural Practice,” Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 45 (1986): 224–43. 38 For art, see J. Raby, Venice, Dürer and the Oriental Mode, Hans Huth Memorial Studies 1 (London: Islamic Art Publications, 1982). For architecture, see D. Howard, Venice and the East: The Impact of the Islamic World on Venetian Architecture, 1100–1500 (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2000). For material culture, see R.E. Mack, Bazaar to Piazza: Islamic Trade and Italian Art, 1300–1600 (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 2002).
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Fig. 14. Nicholas Warner, Map of Historic Cairo, sheet 18 (detail), surveyed and drawn 1997–2000. Scale 1:500. The detail, reproduced here at actual size, shows the area around the complex of Sultan al-Zahir Barquq (187).
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Hammam al-Tanbali Mosque of al-Ghamri Mosque of al-Hakim / Bab al-Futuh / Bab al-Nasr Wikalat Dhulfiqar Bayn al-Qasrayn: complexes of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub, Qalawun, al-Nasir Muhammad, Barquq, and madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars Khan al-Khalilli / Mosque of Saiyyidna Husayn Mosque of al-Azhar / Wikalat Qaytbay Complex of al-Ghuri Mosque of Qadi Yahya / Bayt al-Mufti Bab Zuwayla / Mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh Musée de l’Art Arabe / Mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin Sabil-kuttab of Ibrahim Bey al-Kabir Mosque of Qawsun Takiyyat al-Mahmudiyya Darb al-Ahmar: Mosques of al-Maridani, Aqsunqur, Khayrbak, and palace of al-Razzaz Bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad / mosque of al-Sukkari Bir Yusuf and the Iwan al-Kabir (Mamluk Hall of Justice) Madrasa of Sultan Hasan / mosque of al-Rifa’i Tomb of Shagarat al-Durr / mosque of Sayyida Sukayna Mosque of Sayyida Ayesha Mosque of Sayyida Nafisa Mosque of Ibn Tulun: complex of Sarghatmish / houses of Bayt al-Kritliya and Amna bint Salim Mosque of Sayyida Zaynab Mosque of al-Zahir Baybars
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Husayniya Northern walls Eastern walls Birkat al-Azbakiya Birkat al-Fil The Citadel Rumayla / Qaramidan Khalifa Qal’at al-Kabsh Khalig al-Masri Khalig al-Nasiri
6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
Fig. 15. Sketch map of core area of Historic Cairo (pre-1800) showing the location of key sites described in the text. The toned area represents the Fatimid city. Author’s drawing.
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than structures that are embedded within the city’s streets. The depiction of these buildings, however, is stylized and provides only a schematic architectural understanding (which, given their scale, is impressive enough). Thus, for example, in Pagano and Zorzi’s view of Cairo (dated to 1549) we can distinguish the northern and eastern walls of the city built during the Fatimid and Ayyubid periods.39 From the Mamluk era, the twin minarets above the Bab Zuwayla, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, and the complex of Yashbak on the northeastern side of the city are all discernible.40 Even details such as the different styles of masonry domes to be found adorning the city’s many mausolea can be identified: straight- and spiral-ribbed or covered with arabesque and net patterns. These indicators are all of use to the architectural historian,
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but the level of information about buildings available from both manuscript and printed sources increased with the growing use of drawing conventions that had been developed during the Renaissance and the rise in the number of individuals versed in those skills who visited Egypt. One of the first buildings to be presented in print, as part of a sequence of Christian holy sites, was the church and spring of the Virgin at Matariya, by the Franciscan friar Bernardino Amico da Gallipoli, who visited it in 1597 (fig. 17).41 This curious structure, with its coffered ceiling, raised dais, plunge pool, and altar to one side, is shown in perspectival section. Other engravings of individual buildings can be found among the illustrations accompanying the account of the 42
French traveler Paul Lucas, who visited Egypt in 1719. They include a view of the obelisk at Matariya, a view and plan of the Nilometer, a plan and section of the Well of Joseph (the Bir Yusuf built by Salah al-Din in the Citadel) (fig. 18), and a view
39 N. Warner, “The Fatimid and Ayyubid Eastern Walls of Cairo: Missing Fragments,” Annales Islamologiques 33 (1999): 283–305. 40 D. Behrens-Abouseif, “The North-Eastern Extension of Cairo under the Mamluks,” Annales Islamologiques 17 (1981): 157–89. 41 Bernadino Amico da Gallipoli, Trattato delle piante e immagini de Sacri Edifizi di TERRA SANTA disegnate in Ierusalemme secondo le regole della Prospettiva, e vera misura della lor grandezza (Rome: Antonio Tempesta, 1609). 42 Troisième Voyage du Sieur Paul Lucas fait en M.DCCXIV par ordre de Louis XIV dans la Turquie, l’Asie, la Sourie, la Palestine, la Haute et la Basse Égypte &c. 3 vols. (Rouen: Robert Machuel, 1719). Egypt is included in volume 2. Another contemporary rendering of the Well of Joseph and a view of the aqueduct can be found in the Atlas Historique ou nouvelle introduction à l’Histoire, à la Chronologie & à la Géographie Ancienne et Moderne: représentée dans de Nouvelles Cartes, etc. etc. Tome 6 qui comprend l’Afrique & l’Amerique Septentrionale & Meridionale (Amsterdam: Chez l’Honoré & Châtelain Libraires, 1719), vol. 6, 21.
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Fig. 16. Alessandro Magno, Interior of a house in Cairo, from travel journal, 1556. Pen on paper, 20.5 x 15 cm. Accession no. V.a.259 fol. 127. By permission of the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington D.C.
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Fig. 17. Bernadino Amico da Gallipoli, Chiesa nel Cairo posta in prospectiva, 1609. Copper engraving, 20.7 x 29 cm. Courtesy Bernard Quaritch Ltd., London.
of the Great Pyramid of Giza. Among them, too, is a representation of the procession of the mahmal, when the annual pilgrimage to Mecca left Cairo accompanying a camel that bore two copies of the Qur’an under a tentlike canopy upon its back. This demonstrates an interest in recording not only the built environment of Cairo but the events that took place within the city as well. The obelisk of Matariya and the Nilometer also feature in a memoir compiled by Benoit de Maillet, the French consul in Egypt from 1692 to 1708, which was published in 1735.43 De Maillet’s engraving of the interior of the Nilometer interestingly shows it at the time of full flood with measurements being taken (fig. 19). The fascination of the Nilometer, whether owing to its form or its purpose, was great among visitors, and further efforts to record its
43 Description de l’Égypte contenant plusieurs remarques curieuses sur la géographie ancienne et moderne de ce païs, sur les monuments anciens, sur les moeurs, les coutumes et la religion des habitants, sur le gouvernement et le commerce, sur les animaux, les plantes, etc. Composée sur les mémoires de M. de Maillet, ancien Consul de France au Caire, par M. l’abbé Le Mascrier (Paris: Genneau & Rollin, 1735), 66 and 112.
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appearance were soon made. The Jesuit father Claude-Louis Fourmont, who was the author of the first printed panorama of Cairo seen from the Muqattam Hills (published in 1754), provided only two other plates in his book, both of which show the Nilometer.44 One of these is a perspectival cutaway section (fig. 20); the other is a plan with surrounding structures that also bears a lettered key used to explain the various functions of the building. Richard Pococke’s Description of the East (1743) added to the corpus of buildings deemed worthy of independent illustration (fig. 21). Although crudely executed, these representations attest to a broadening archaeological interest in the various structures of the city.45 Naturally, the Nilometer is there, but the list also includes the Roman fortress of Babylon, the aqueduct pumping station, the mosque of ‘Amr, the Bab al-Nasr, the ‘Diwan of Joseph’ (the Mamluk Hall of Justice in the Citadel),46 and the Bir Yusuf. By isolating a group of individual buildings in this way for the purposes of study, and by providing the reader with a variety of plans, sections, and views of them, Pococke presaged the more complete architectural taxonomy of the Description de l’Égypte. His Danish contemporaries Norden and Niebuhr were less comprehensive but more accurate in their depictions. Norden presents the by-now familiar Bir Yusuf and Nilometer, but the latter is also shown in by far the most detailed section to date. His most engaging illustration, however, is not so much about architecture as another event framed by its architecture: the Cutting of the Canal ceremony that took place annually at the mouth of the Khalig al-Masri opposite the island of Roda (fig. 23).47 This shows fireworks exploding around the pavilion where the Ottoman governor sat, looking down on the dike as it was breached. Niebuhr provides only one architectural illustration: a perspective sketch of the Bab al-Futuh (fig. 22).48
44 Fourmont, Description historique et géographique, 130, pl. 2 (Coupe du puits du Mekias ou Nilomètre), and 142, pl. 3 (Plan Géométral des souterrains du Mekias ou Nilomètre). 45 Pococke, A Description of The East, pls. 9–15. 46 See N.O. Rabbat, The Citadel of Cairo: A New Interpretation of Royal Mamluk Architecture (Leiden: E.J. Brill, 1995), 244–63, for the history and use of the Iwan al-Kabir as rebuilt by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad in 1333. 47 Norden, Travels in Egypt and Nubia, pls. 19 (the Well of Joseph), 23, 25, 26 (the Nilometer), 18 (the Cutting of the Canal). 48 Niebuhr, Description de l’Arabie, pl. 13.
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Fig. 18. Paul Lucas, Plan et coupe du puits de Joseph au Caire, 1719. Copper engraving, 18 x 12.8 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Pococke, Norden, and Niebuhr were not, in the first place, artists, and the quality of their images was soon to be far surpassed by subsequent publications. Among these, one unfinished project by the French painter Louis François Cassas (1756–1827) stands out. This was to be a precursor to the Description in its ambition: the Voyage Pittoresque de la Syrie, de la Phoenicie, de la Palaestine, et de la Basse Égypte.49 Cassas’s avowed intention was to combine the descriptive powers of the word with images. His encyclopedic proposal divided the subject matter into three volumes in folio format, illustrated with more than three hundred plates and ample scholarly texts; Egypt was to be included in the third volume. A lack of subscriptions forced the project’s cancellation, but not before a preliminary ‘sample’ volume had been produced. This included a group of seven perspective views (and one plan) of different sites in Cairo: the Bayn al-Qasrayn in front of the mausoleum of Qalawun, two views of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan (the first printed images of the madrasa), a plan of the ‘Diwan of Joseph,’ the obelisk of Matariya, an exterior view of the Bab al-Futuh, and an unidentified street that provides the backdrop for a scene showing the pasha’s ceremonial entrance into Cairo.50 The significance of this collection of views is that it includes, for the first time, an accurately observed urban landscape, as well as buildings standing in isolation. Cassas’s view of the Bayn al-Qasrayn provided not only the first relatively precise rendering of the exterior of major buildings such as the madrasa-mausoleum complex of Qalawun, but has even been used by architectural historians to re-create the appearance of the now-demolished madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars (fig. 24). Cassas visited Cairo in 1785 for only two weeks, during which he drew the sketches from which these engravings were derived. In addition to the original drawings of the engraved plates, further manuscript sketches of the Bab Zuwayla, the ‘Diwan of Joseph,’ and a characteristic group of minarets survive, all of which attest to the Fig. 19. Benoit de Maillet, Plan and view of the Nilometer, 1735. Copper engraving, 19.8 x 23.5 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
high quality and accuracy of his architectural recording—only to be surpassed by
Fig. 20. Claude-Louis Fourmont, Coupe du puits du Mekias ou Nilomètre. 1754. Copper engraving, 19 x 21 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
49 Its full title: Voyage Pittoresque de la Syrie, de la Phoenicie, de la Palaestine, et de la Basse Egypte: Ouvrage divisé en trois volumes, contenant environ trois cent trente planches, gravées sur les dessins et sous la direction du C.en CASSAS, peintre, l’un des artistes employés par l’auteur du Voyage de la Grèce; un discours préliminaire pour chaque volume, par le C. en VOLNEY, membre de l’Institut national, auteur du Voyage en Syrie; un texte rédigée par les C.C. F.J.G. La Porte-du Theil, membre de l’Institut et du Conservatoire de la Bibliothèque nationale; pour la partie historique et la relation du Voyage: J.G. Legrand, architecte, de la Société libre des sciences, lettres et arts de Paris; pour la partie historique et descriptive de l’architecture; L. Langlès, membre de l’Institut, et du Conservatoire de la Bibliothèque nationale, professeur de Persan à l’École spéciale des langues orientales vivantes; pour la partie des Langues et des Inscriptions orientales. (Paris: Imprimerie de la République, An VII [1798–99]). 50 Respectively, pls. 63, 65, 66, 69, 74, 76, and 81. 51 See the exhibition catalogue, Louis François Cassas, 1756–1827: Dessinateur-Voyageur/Im Bamne der Sphinx: Ein französischer Zeichner reist nach Italien und in den Orient (Mainz am Rhein: Verlag Philipp von Zabern, 1994).
the Description.51
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Fig. 21. Left: Richard Pococke, A View of the Reservoir of the Aqueduct at Grand Cairo, and also of the Top of it, 1754. Copper engraving, 28.5 x 18 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo. Fig. 22. Right: Carsten Niebuhr, Bad al-Fitûch, une Porte de Káhira, 1774. Copper engraving, 19 x 14.6 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
Fig. 23. Frederik Norden, Ceremonie pratiquée chaque Année à l’occasion du Coupement de la Digue pour faire entrer le Nil au Grand Cayre, rendered 1757. Copper engraving, 20.7 x 39.8 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Fig. 24. Louis François Cassas, Wedding procession in the Bayn al-Qasrayn, 1796. Copper engraving, 23.9 x 41 cm. Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Abteilung Kairo.
It was another visitor, Luigi Mayer, who had the distinction of being the first artist to bring color to representations of Cairo. In 1792, Mayer traveled to the Near East in the entourage of Sir Robert Ainslie, the British ambassador to the Sublime Porte. His book of lithographs, published with accompanying texts in 1801, contained eight perspective views of individual sites in Cairo.52 They comprise a “View of the Nilometer,” the “Gate of Grand Cairo” (the Bab al-Nasr), the “Principal Square in Grand Cairo, with Murad Bey’s Palace” (the Qaramidan) (pl. 12), “The Mosque of the Four Hundred Pillars” (the mosque of ‘Amr), the “Lovers’ Fountain,”53 “Ruins in the Castle of Cairo,” and “Joseph’s Hall” (the Hall of Justice). Of these, the view of the Qaramidan is particularly significant, since it is one of the sole surviving representations of what the Mamluk hippodrome may have looked like after it had been enclosed by buildings. The representation of the ruined Hall of Justice also
52 Views in Egypt, from the Original Drawings in the Possession of Sir Robert Ainslie, taken during his Embassy to Constantinople by Luigi Mayer: Engraved by and under the Direction of Thomas Milton: With Historical Observations, and Incidental Illustrations of the Manners and Customs of the Natives of that Country (London: Thomas Bentley, 1801). 53 This was a basalt sarcophagus (now in the British Museum) located next to a mosque in the area of Cairo known as Hawd al-Marsud. See Robert Hay, Illustrations of Cairo (London: Tilt & Bogue, 1840), descriptive notice for pl. 6.
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went beyond anything hitherto published, giving a good impression of the scale of this vast, now-demolished, structure. The work of Cassas and Mayer was not, however, above a certain stylistic exaggeration, evident in the almost mannerist elongation of architectural elements such as arches and minarets. A more prosaic style of rendering was employed by the third major artist to visit Cairo at the close of the eighteenth century in the company of Napoleon’s savants: Dominique Vivant Denon. Denon was resolutely unimpressed by what he saw of the city: Je voyois effectivement une inombrable population, de longs espaces à traverser, mais pas une belle rue, pas un beau monument: une seule place vaste, mais qui a l’air d’un champ.{…} [A]u reste, ces édifices portent les characters de tout ce que qu’ont bati les Musulmans dans cette région, c’est à dire qu’ils offrent un mélange de magnificence, de misère, et d’ignorance.54 The illustrations Denon provided for his book on Egypt for most part reflect this low opinion: only one fine view of the lake of Azbakiya at night (fig. 25) conveys any feeling for the spirit of the place. The cemeteries, a view of Bulaq with the mosque of Sinan, a distant exterior view of the Nilometer, and views of the aqueduct provide information about the appearance of the city’s peripheries, but material from the interior, such as street scenes or major monuments, is completely absent. This may well be the result of a justifiable nervousness on the part of the artist at a time when hostile locals had just assassinated Jean-Baptiste Kléber and killed four colleagues from the Commission des Arts.55 Nonethleless, Denon’s Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Égypte pendant les campagnes du Général Bonaparte, first published in 1802, ran to over forty editions, adaptations, and translations.56 The significance of this publication, aside from its wide distribution, inheres in the fact that it predated the publication of the Description by more than a decade. A whole team of trained architects and surveyors, rather than any one individual, made possible the compilation of the far more sophisticated and varied record of the architectural remains of Cairo found in the Description de l’Égypte. Their legacy comprises detailed architectural drawings (including plans, sections, elevations, and
54 Vivant Denon, Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Égypte pendant les Campagnes du Général Bonaparte (Paris: P. Didot l’Ainé, 1802), vol. 1, 63 and 65. 55 Denon, Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Égypte, vol. 1, 66–67. Denon included only eleven views of Cairo in his work. 56 J.-E. Goby, Cahiers d’Histoire Égyptienne, series 4, fasc. 5–6 (Cairo: Éditions des Cahiers d’Histoire Égyptienne, 1952), 290–316.
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Fig. 25. Vivant Denon, Vue du Caire, prise de la place êl-uzbékyéh pendant le temps de l’inondation du Nil. 1802 (detail). Copper engraving, 23.8 x 75 cm. Private collection, Washington, D.C.
perspectives grouped together for the first time) 57 of some of Cairo’s greatest buildings: the mosque of Ibn Tulun, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, the Nilometer, the intake tower of the aqueduct built by Sultan al-Ghuri, the mosque of al-Hakim, the mosque of al-Zahir Baybars, and the mosque of Sinan.58 Among military constructions, the Bab al-Futuh, the Bab al-Nasr, and the Citadel are well represented. Domestic architecture is documented in the houses of Alfi Bey, Hasan Kashif, Ibrahim al-Sinnari, Qasim Bey,
Fig. 26. Opposite top: Plan et élévation d’un Abreuvoir près de la porte appelée Qarâ Meydân; Bottom: Plan et élévation de la citerne appelée sibil A’ly Aghâ, from the Description de l’Égypte, État Moderne I, pl. 48, 1809. Copper engraving, 58 x 43 cm. Author’s collection.
‘Uthman Bey, and Sulayman Agha.59 Three examples of public buildings—a bathhouse, a watering trough, and a fountain-school (hammam, hawd, and sabil-kuttab, respectively)—are included (fig. 26). Also shown are major urban spaces such as the Rumayla, the Khalig al-Masri, the lake of Azbakiya, and Birkat al-Fil, all of which (with the exception of the Rumayla) have now disappeared. For the first time, a significant number of architectural details are represented, as well as faithful copies of the Arabic inscriptions to be found on the mosque of Ibn Tulun and the Nilometer.60 All of this material was precisely measured and drawn, which gives the work of the Description an extraordinary resonance and relevance to this day.61 Despite this, the work was obviously restricted in its scope; whether intentionally or not is difficult to say. A clue to this is given in the very title of the section that contains the bulk of the engraved plates of Cairo. This is named the “Environs du Caire” rather than the “Centre Ville.” The vast majority of the information
57 Two scales were generally provided on these drawings: a metric scale and an old French scale (based on the pouce, the pied, and the toise). For the titles used in the plates, their scales, dimensioning systems, format, and other indications see T.M. Russell, ed., The Napoleonic Survey of Egypt: The Monuments and Customs of Egypt. 2 vols. (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2001), I: 27–28. 58 These drawings are to be found in the État Moderne I, pls. 17–73, published in 1809. 59 Of these, only the house of Ibrahim al-Sinnari survives (monument number 283). 60 For the inscriptions in the Nilometer and mosque of Ibn Tulun, see the État Moderne II, pls. a–g. 61 The drawings are not infallible, however, as can be seen from the elevations of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, where the distinctive cornice of the building is omitted.
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presented is from peripheral rather than central sites. The Bab al-Futuh and the Bab al-Nasr, which lay exposed on the northern flank of the city, are shown, but the Bab Zuwayla is not—probably because it was embedded in a denser urban configuration. All the mosques depicted were either in ruins or at the periphery or both—al-Hakim, Ibn Tulun, and Sultan Hasan being cases in point. One looks in vain for the mosques of al-Azhar and al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh or the funerary complex of Qalawun within the collection of plates, though each was undeniably worthy of study and inclusion in the architectural corpus. Even the houses that are depicted were located close to the edge of the main built-up area of the city rather than within it. Perhaps the interior of the city was at the time simply too hostile to be penetrated in safety by the French, who were in any case technically barred entry to Muslim holy sites. Few images of Cairo appeared in print in the years immediately following the departure of the French.62 The mantle of the savants of the Description was destined to fall, appropriately enough, onto a French architect in the employ of Egypt’s new ruler, Muhammad ‘Ali, by the name of Pascal Coste.63 Coste lived in Egypt from 1817 to 1827 with an absence of one year, and in addition to building new constructions for his patron, found time to painstakingly document both pharaonic sites and more of Cairo’s outstanding Islamic architecture. Only his studies of the latter made it to print. Coste’s book, l’Architecture arabe, ou Monuments du Kaire, published in 1839 long after his return to France,64 was made up of seventy plates showing a variety of buildings including mosques, fountainschools, bathhouses, and caravanserai (wikalas). The illustrations in most copies of the book were black-and-white line drawings; a few examples were hand-colored or shaded. Plans, sections, elevations, and perspective views are Coste’s medium of communication. To work in the interiors of mosques, Coste was armed with a firman from Muhammad ‘Ali; although the ruler had advised him not to visit the mosque of al-Azhar, Coste gained entry on the pretext of surveying the floor tiles prior to their pretended replacement at the Pasha’s expense. His treatment of religious architecture included the mosques of ‘Amr, Ibn Tulun, al-Azhar, al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, Sultan Hasan, Aqsunqur, and Khayrbak, as well as the funerary complexes of Qalawun, Farag ibn Barquq, and Qaytbay. He was the first to draw up a ‘parallel
62 See, for example, Henry Salt, Twenty-four Views Taken in St. Helena, the Cape, India, Ceylon, Abyssinia and Egypt (London: W. Miller, 1809) with a fine rendering of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan as seen from the Citadel. 63 The best study is that of M. Volait, “Les monuments de l’art arabe,” in Pascal Coste: Toutes les Égypte (Marseille: Éditions Parenthèses-Bibliothèque Municipale de Marseille, 1998), 97–130. 64 L’Architecture arabe, ou Monuments du Kaire, mesurés et dessinés de 1818 à 1826 par P. Coste, Architecte (Paris: MM. Firmin Didot Frères, 1839). For the saga preceding publication, see Volait, “Les monuments de l’art arabe,” 114–15.
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of minarets’ to scale, showing eleven examples. Other building types were represented by the Bab al-Nasr and Bab al-Futuh, the Nilometer, the pumping station of al-Ghuri, the dervish lodge and fountain-school (takiya and sabil-kuttab, respectively) of Sultan Mahmud, the fountain-school of Ibrahim Bey al-Kabir, the
al-Tanbali bathhouse, the caravanserai of Dhulfiqar, and the portal of the caravanserai of Qaytbay at al-Azhar (fig. 27). The latter constitute the first images of wikalas to appear in print. Houses along the Khalig al-Masri, and the façade of the palace of Razzaz on the Darb al-Ahmar round out the selection with examples of domestic architecture. Although Coste has the deserved reputation of being an astonishingly accurate draftsman of architectural form and detail, he was not above improving on reality in some instances by straightening out the kinks in the structures he surveyed, introducing symmetry where none existed, or adding elements where he believed they should exist for perfection’s sake. This followed the Beaux-Arts tradition of creating an ideally proportioned architecture that had little relation to the often
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Fig. 27. Pascal Coste, Vue de l’Okel Zoulfiqar. Copper engraving, 30 x 44.3 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Fig. 28. Robert Hay, View of part of the Kal’at el-Kebsh, 1840. Color lithograph, 28 x 38.2 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
complex stratagems employed by Muslim builders to accommodate, for example, the conflicting orientations demanded by religion (qibla) and context (the street) when planning mosques and mausoleums. This can be seen, for example, in the plans Coste drew up of the complex of Qalawun and the mosque of al-Azhar.65 Since his renderings are sometimes all that remain as a record of destroyed buildings such as the hospital (bimaristan) of Qalawun, they have an inestimable value. What is more problematic is that his partly idealized drawings have subsequently been treated as if they are archaeologically exact foundations upon which to build reconstructions.66
65 See also Volait, “Les monuments de l’art arabe,” 123–24 for a discussion of the drawing of the façade of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan. 66 The construction of courtyard arcades in the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, nearing completion in 2004, is based on Coste’s drawing.
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3rd colorsection goes here, in the center of the 7th signature, shortly before the mention of former figs 39, 40 and 41
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Plate 12. Luigi Mayer, Principal Square in Grand Cairo, with Murad Bey’s Palace [the Qaramidan], 1801. Color lithograph, 23.2 x 31.3 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo. Plate 13. David Roberts, Minaret of the Mosque of al-Ghamree, 1846–49. Color lithograph, 35 x 24.5 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Plate 14. Frank Dillon, The Palace of Radwan Bey. 1869–70. Watercolor on paper, 30.2 x 45.1 cm. Courtesy Sarah Searight.
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Plate 15. Prisse d’Avennes, Dôme et minaret de la Mosquée de Khairbekyeh, 1869–77. Color lithograph, 44.8 x 32 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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The majority of artists and architects who lived in or passed through Egypt during the nineteenth century had come for the glories of ancient Egypt. Yet few could be so insensate as to ignore completely the rich Islamic architectural heritage of Cairo. The 1840s witnessed the printing of two major works that paid equal homage to the architecture and the atmosphere of Cairo, frankly succumbing to the combined allure of its intricate buildings, crumbling ruins, striking panoramas, and dense human activity. Robert Hay, in his Illustrations of Cairo of 1840, published thirty tonal lithographs of the city that, although they are all exterior scenes, provide much unusual material rendered in a more lifelike manner than the exquisite but often sterile line reproductions of the Description and Pascal Coste.67 The drawings were produced by Hay himself and two architects, Owen Carter and C. Laver, and were accompanied by descriptive notes compiled with the assistance of the great Orientalist scholar and long-term resident of Cairo, Edward William Lane. Particularly interesting are views of the now-vanished structures that stood on the hill of Qalat al-Kabsh (fig. 28), around the Birkat al-Fil, and along the river at Bulaq. Equally arresting are the depictions of individual structures that have now been demolished or altered, such as the Hall of Justice on the Citadel, the mosque of al-Barmawiya, the crumbling slave market at the wikalat al-Gallaba, the Barbers’ Gate at al-Azhar built by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, and the constructions of Sultan al-Ghuri inside the Khan al-Khalili. Whereas the work of Hay rests in relative obscurity, that of David Roberts is ubiquitous. This has tended to reduce his remarkable output to the status of an oriental wallpaper, which is an entirely undeserved fate. Roberts started his professional career as a scene-painter for the theater but was persuaded by others (including J.M.W. Turner) to direct his talent to a higher purpose. His vast three-volume set of lithographs, Egypt and Nubia,68 was the result of a visit to the Near East that lasted less than a year between 1838 and 1839. It included awe-inspiring images of Cairo: the Bab alNasr and the Bab Zuwayla; the mosques of Sultan Hasan, al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, Abu’l ‘Ila (Bulaq), and Sultan al-Ghuri; the minarets of the mosques of al-Ghamri (pl. 13), Baybars al-Gashankir, and Qawsun; the funerary complexes of Qaytbay, Farag ibn Barquq, the Sultaniya, Qurqumas, and Inal; views inside and outside the city such as the Bayn al-Qasrayn, the northern cemetery, the Rumayla, the Bab al-Wazir, the eastern walls seen from the rubbish mounds, and al-Khalifa; details of the Nilometer and the aqueduct pumping station. This is a selection of Cairo’s finest civic architecture, presented in all its grandeur, yet only a single plate is dedicated to a domestic façade.
67 Robert Hay, Illustrations of Cairo (London: Tilt & Bogue, 1840). The drawings themselves were executed by Hay himself, O.B. Carter, and C. Laver. 68 David Roberts’s work appeared in many editions, the two most important being The Holy Land, Syria, Idumea, Arabia, Egypt and Nubia, 6 vols. (London, F.G. Moon, 1842–49), and Egypt and Nubia, 3 vols. (London, F.G. Moon, 1846–49).
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Equally effective in their portrayal of identifiable buildings and interiors came other artists and architects of the nineteenth century, such as Jean-Léon Gérôme, John Frederick Lewis, Frank Dillon, Richard Phené Spiers, and James Wild.69 The value of their work, aside from the purely aesthetic and atmospheric, resides in the remarkably accurate record they left—not only of vanished buildings (such as the Bayt al-Mufti [fig. 45d, bottom] or the Sufi convent at Qasr al-Aini) but also of entire urban spaces that have long passed into memory (such as the Birkat al-Fil and the Qaramidan). One characteristic this group shared was a fascination with the domestic environment. For Gérôme and Lewis in particular, this provided a precisely observed and detailed architectural backdrop against which ‘oriental’ life, with all its intrigue, could unfold. A different approach—the logical extension of the encyclopedic tendency of the Enlightenment—was adopted by the major French publications that appeared after Coste’s, relative to Islamic architecture in Cairo and its ornamentation. This is epitomized by the work of Girault de Prangey,70 Emile Prisse d’Avennes71 and Jules Bourgoin.72 The publication of Prisse’s atlas, L’Art arabe d’après les monuments du Kaire, spanned more than a decade; among the images are a variety of perspective views of individual buildings or groups of them (including approximately twenty buildings never hitherto recorded, of which six have subsequently vanished) (pl. 15). The bulk of Prisse d’Avennes’s work, however, was concentrated on the painstaking record of decorative treatments in wood, metal, plaster, and mosaic. Prisse d’Avennes also firmly linked the study of Islamic architecture with its minor arts: furniture, textiles, metalworking, glass, and ceramics. His successor, Bourgoin, had an even more defined aim, as is suggested by the title of his work: Précis de l’Art Arabe et Matériaux pour servir à l’Histoire, à la Théorie et la Technique des Arts de l’Orient Musulman. This consists of hundreds of line drawings of the technical detailing of the construction of the domes, minarets, vaults, muqarnas, doors, and windows that had so attracted the Romantic artists, but presenting them instead as specimens for study (fig. 29). In the context of the growing European desire to construct and ornament new buildings in the Islamic style, Prisse d’Avennes and Bourgoin had provided the
69 For Gérôme, see M. Stevens, ed., The Orientalists: Delacroix to Matisse. European Painters in North Africa and the Near East, (London: Royal Academy of Arts, 1984), 136–47; for Lewis, see C. Williams, “John Frederick Lewis: Reflections of Reality,” Muqarnas 18 (2001): 227–43; for Dillon, see B. Llewellyn, “Frank Dillon and Victorian Pictures of Old Cairo Houses,” Ur 3 (1984): 3–10. 70 Girault de Prangey, Monument arabe d’Egypte, de Syrie et d’Asie mineure; dessinés et measures de 1842 à 1845, (Paris: chez l’auteur, 1846). 71 Prisse d’Avennes, L’Art arabe d’après les monuments du Kaire: Depuis le VIIe siècle jusqu‘à la fin du XVIIIe, 3 vols. (Paris: A. Morel, 1869–77). 72 J. Bourgoin, Précis de l’Art Arabe et Matériaux pour servir à l’Histoire, à la Théorie et la Technique des Arts de l’Orient Musulman (Paris: Leroux, 1892).
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manuals to do so. Further reference material, generated by the newly developed representational medium of photography, was also now available. Prisse d’Avennes had used photography as a tool in the compilation of his atlas, but altogether of a different nature was the output of a legion of commercial and private photographers operating in Egypt during the latter half of the nineteenth century. Francis Frith, J. Pascal Sebah, Antonio Beato, Henri and Emile Béchard, the Zangaki brothers, Hippolyte Arnoux, Felix Bonfils, as well as others,73 amassed hundreds of glass negatives that give us a unique glimpse of a city on the brink of irreversible change, yet few of these men claimed to be self-consciously documenting the heritage around them. Theirs was an industry driven by the new mass-market of tourism that had arrived to gawp at Egypt’s past and take home a souvenir (fig. 30). With the formation of the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe in 1881, however, a new organization was born that had as its express purpose the recording of this heritage and its protection.74 To carry out these aims, the architects and historians of the Comité employed drawings and photographs systematically for the first time, leading eventually to the creation of an unrivaled archive of information about the monuments 75
that they were charged to protect. Their thoroughness was such that today we rely upon their drawings and photographs to reconstruct the original appearance of damaged or destroyed structures. This record is also invaluable in that it enables us to assess the often extreme interventions or physical reconstructions that were
73 For the most comprehensive listing of photographers who worked in Egypt during the nineteenth century, see N. Perez, Focus East: Early Photography in the Near East (1839–1885) (New York: H. Abrams, 1988). 74 See P. Speiser, Die Geschichte der Erhaltung arabischer Baudenkmäler in Ägypten ADAIK, Islamische Reihe 8 (Heidelberg, Heidelberger Orientverlag, 2001), 47–89. 75 The archive is currently located in the offices of the Supreme Council of Antiquities at the Citadel.
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Fig. 29. Jules Bourgouin, Stalactites, 1892. Copper engraving, 21.8 x 15.2 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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performed on the overwhelming majority of buildings in their care (of which more below). To round off this indispensable archive, we have the Bulletins of the Comité, published over a span of some seventy years. These record in detail all decisions and notices pertinent to the history, registration, and deregistration of monuments, as well as the practicalities and cost of their restoration and the not infrequent clashes with other public and private authorities that sought to demolish them. Many of the members of the Comité during the seventy-odd years of its activity were gifted architects: the German Julius Franz, the Austrian Max Herz, the Italian Achille Patricolo, the Frenchmen Ambroise Baudry and Edmond Pauty, and the Egyptians Ahmad Saiyid Mutawalli, Mahmud Ahmad, and Muhammad ‘Abd al-Fattah Hilmi, to name but a few.76 Yet one stands out above others for the depth of his architectural researches (at least in the earlier periods of Islamic history), the exactitude of his surveying, and the comprehensiveness of his photographic documentation. This was the Englishman K.A.C. Creswell.77 The bulk of Creswell’s contribution to the field of the architectural history of Cairo can be found in his two works, Early Muslim Architecture and The Muslim Architecture of Egypt,78 and his photographic archive, which includes some three thousand images of the architecture of Cairo alone.79 While resolutely ignoring the architecture of post-Mamluk Cairo, Creswell’s pioneering use of textual and visual sources, dating sequences, stylistic comparanda, drawing, and photography allowed him to construct detailed biographies of the buildings that came under his scrutiny (fig. 31). At the same time, he was one of the first scholars, together with ‘Ali Bahgat Bey,80 to employ archaeology in order to broaden our knowledge of the city’s past. Archaeological work has continued until today, although most excavations are located on the periphery of the city rather than at its center.81 Others have made outstanding contributions to the comprehensive documentation of Cairo’s built heritage, whether pursuing their analyses by building type or period. For the Mamluk era, the work of Michael Meinecke broadens the base provided by Creswell.82
76 See Speiser, Die Geschichte der Erhaltung arabischer Baudenkmäler, 67–74, for biographies. For the work of Baudry, see M. Volait and M.L. Crosnier Leconte, L’Égypte d’un architecte: Ambroise Baudry, 1838–1906 (Paris: Somogy, 1998). 77 See O. Grabar, ed., K.A.C. Creswell and His Legacy, Muqarnas 8 (1991). 78 K.A.C. Creswell, The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 1: Ikshids and Fatimids, AD 939–1171 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1952); The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 2: Ayyubids and Early Bahrite Mamluks, AD 1171–1326 (Oxford: Oxford University Press), 1959. 79 The archive, preserved at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, is now available on CD-ROM. 80 A. Bahgat and A. Gabriel, Fouilles d’al Foustât: Publiées sous les auspices du Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe (Paris: E. de Brocard, 1921). 81 See the work of G. Scanlon at Fustat, R. Gayraud at Stabl Antar, and P. Speiser et al. at the funerary complex of al-Nasir Muhammad. 82 M. Meinecke. Die mamlukische Architektur in Ägypten und Syrien (648/1250 bis 923/1517), 2 vols. ADAIK, Islamische Reihe 5 (Glückstadt: J.J. Augustin, 1992).
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Fig. 30. Anonymous photographer. The rab‘ of Ibrahim Agha al-Mustahfizan (formerly no. 457/595), prior to demolition in the 1950s (ca. 1930). Paper print from glass negative, 21.3 x 17.5 cm. Author’s collection.
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Fig. 31. K.A.C. Creswell, survey of the mosque of al-Hakim, showing phases of surviving structures, ca.1950. Pen and ink on paper, 50 x 50 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
Opposite: Fig. 32. Top: plan of the bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (A) showing intrusive structures and the mosque of al-Sukkari (B) in front of the main entrance. Center: View of the interior arcades of the mosque of al-Sukkari before demolition. Bottom: View of the portal and entrance façade of the bimaristan after demolition. The white area indicates the area originally enclosed by the mosque. From BCCMAA, 1915–19, pls. 138 and 139.
The analyses of Christel Kessler have highlighted complexities in the orientation of religious buildings, particularly Mamluk funerary architecture.83 In the field of domestic architecture, the survey of surviving exempla by Bernard Maury and his colleagues is invaluable. 84 All these studies rely heavily on graphic means to convey their information. The increasing knowledge of Cairo’s historic architecture, the growing sophistication of its representation, and the refinement of stylistic and typological classifications—due in no small part to the work of the members of the Comité—
83 C. Kessler, Survey and Documentation of the Domed Funerary Architecture of Mamluk Cairo: Deposit Copies of Plans and Photographs (Washington, D.C.: The Smithsonian Institution). See also her “Funerary Architecture within the City,” in A. Raymond, M. Rogers, and M. Wahba, eds. Colloque internationale sur l’histoire du Caire, 27 mars–5 Avril 1969 (Cairo: General Book Organization, 1969 [1972]), 257–67; and Mecca-Oriented Architecture in Mamluk Cairo: The Madrasa-Mausoleum of Sultan Sha’ban II, in A. H. Green (ed.), In Quest of an Islamic Humanism: Arabic and Islamic Studies in Memory of Mohamed al-Nowaihi (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1984), 97–108. 84 B. Maury et al., Palais et maisons du Caire, 2 vols. (Paris: CNRS, 1982 [vol. 1] and 1983 [vol. 2]).
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also had their attendant dangers. When it came to deciding what to do in order to protect this unrivaled resource, restoration was invariably preferred to conservation. With a developed (and value-laden) stylistic taxonomy close to hand, the reconstruction of Islamic architecture along ‘improved’ lines was now possible, in conformity with subjective ideas of what buildings should look like, rather than
A
what they actually looked like. This was, of course, tied to the development of the fictive Islamic city in world exhibitions during the latter half of the nineteenth century and early part of the twentieth,85 but is still a stratagem in use today. Some examples of this trend are instructive, particularly with regard to the policy of isolating buildings from their context, which is linked to their appreciation and re-presentation as objets d’art. The practice of this policy undoubtedly has wider urban implications, but only its effects on individual buildings, or groups of buildings, will be considered here. In 1921, the area immediately in front of the bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (no. 257, AH 821–23 / AD 1418–20), near the top of the Darb al-Ahmar, was cleared in order to obtain an uninterrupted view of its imposing portal (fig. 32). To do this involved not only a significant amount of reconstruction of the stone façade but also the removal of an entire eighteenth-century mosque, known as the mosque of al-Sukkari, which had been built immediately in front of its more illustrious Mamluk predecessor. This was in fact a registered monument in its own right (no. 137), remarkable for the use of spiral marble columns in its structure. The concept of rebuilding the mosque on a lower level, which would also have allowed the façade of the bimaristan to be appreciated, was briefly entertained by the Comité, and a proposal was drawn up by Patricolo. Structural failure, however, and the cost of this project were cited as the reasons for rejecting this proposal in favor of outright demolition. Prior to this act, the mosque was removed from the index of registered monuments.86 Sometimes the Comité went further, making significant additions to buildings for the sake of their presentation. At the Bab al-Khalk on Shari‘ Bur Said, the mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin (no. 196,
AH
1035 /
AD
1625) was isolated from its
context within an urban block bordering the former Khalig al-Masri in the 1920s. To provide an ‘embellissement’ for the adjacent newly created square (onto which the Musée de l’Art Arabe—the present-day Islamic Museum—also faced), it was decided to add an entirely new sabil-kuttab to the northern façade of the mosque
85 See Z. Çelik, Displaying the Orient: Architecture of Islam at Nineteenth-Century World’s Fairs (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1992). 86 For the conservation histories of the various individual buildings referred to here, see entries in the accompanying descriptive catalogue.
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B
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Fig. 33. Views of the mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin before (left) and after (right) restoration works. Note the addition of a replica of the sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda on the northwestern corner. BCCMAA, 1936–40, pls. 6 and 7.
(which already had its own sabil-kuttab on its east flank) (fig. 33). This was to be an exact copy of the sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda located in the Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 21,
AH
1157 /
AD
1744). The only reason to make such an
addition was aesthetic. In addition, the sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda was already a favorite exemplar of Islamic architectural style, having appeared in reconstructed form in at least two world exhibitions.87 In the 1920s, the Comité also launched an urban clearance campaign around the mosque of Ibn Tulun (no. 220, AH 263–65 /
AD
876–79). The interior of the mosque
had already been cleared of encroachments and its ruined arcades and ceilings replaced. The mosque had further been surrounded over the centuries by an agglomeration of mainly domestic structures that used the outer wall of the ziyada surrounding the mosque for their structural support (fig. 34). All the surrounding buildings and streets that led to doors in the ziyada were removed, with the exception of three buildings: the madrasa of Sarghatmish (no. 218, 1356), the house and sabil of al-Kritliya (no. 321,
AH
1041 /
AD
AH
757 /
AD
1631), and the
87 For the Paris Exposition Universale of 1900, see Çelik, Displaying the Orient, 118. For the World’s Fair at Chicago in 1893, see H.C. Ives, The Dream City: A Portfolio of Photographic Views from the World’s Columbian Exposition (St. Louis: N.D. Thompson, 1893); and I.A. Bierman, “Urban Memory and the Preservation of Monuments,” in J. Bacharach, ed., The Restoration and Preservation of Islamic Monuments in Egypt (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1995), 7.
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house of Amna bint Salim (no. 559,
AH
947 /AD 1540). The first of these was an
early Mamluk structure of major importance. Its missing dome over the qibla iwan was replaced in concrete, though evidence indicated that the original dome had been constructed of wood and lead sheet. The two houses were kept for aesthetic reasons, but excavating them from their surrounding urban context required the creation of an entirely new southern façade where none had existed before. This was carried out in ‘appropriate’ style with new mashrabiya and corbeling. During the clearance process, the mosque of Ibn Tulun also lost a secondary Mamluk minaret (seen in the background of fig. 34), which was demolished because it was purportedly unsafe. The final example considered here is that of the mausoleum of Shagarat al-Durr (no. 169, AH 648 / AD 1250), which lies in the area known as al-Khalifa close to the mosque of Ibn Tulun.88 A 1902 survey shows the small domed mausoleum embedded in a cluster of buildings including shops and a functioning zawiya with an ablutions court—all obviously later accretions (fig. 35). A project was initiated in 1917 to disengage the mausoleum from its attendant zawiya, which was to be replaced by a new Mamluk-style zawiya and sabil at a suitable distance from the mausoleum. This plan failed to provide any new ablutions facilities, rendering the mosque unusable. Although the disengagement was carried out, the new zawiya was never finished; it stands today as an incomplete and unused ruin that might at first glance be taken for a Mamluk structure. Consideration of the manner in which the complex of Shagarat al-Durr and other buildings discussed above were remodeled leads inevitably to the issue of style. The use of an Islamic Revival style89 in the reconstruction or rebuilding of historic structures was not favored solely by the Comité: other agencies such as the Ministry of Endowments, often working with members of the royal family, were also responsible for major changes in the appearance of historic buildings, usually mosques. Their motives are less complex than those of the conservationists: they wished simply to facilitate the use of the buildings in their care and considered the neo-Islamic style to be the appropriate mode of expression for those aspirations. This trend started slightly ambiguously with the new mosque of al-Husayn (commenced by ‘Abbas I and completed under Khedive Isma‘il in 1878), the façade of which can be considered as much a manifestation of Gothic as Islamic styling.
88 For the extent of Shagarat al-Durr’s foundation in the area see D. Beheren-Abouseif, “The Lost Minaret of Shajarat ad-Durr at Her Complex in the Cemetery of Sayyida Nafisa,” MDAIK 39 (1983), 1–16. 89 See R. Ilbert and M. Volait, “Neo-Arabic Renaissance in Egypt,” Mimar 13 (1984): 26–34; N. Rabbat, “The Formation of the Neo-Mamluk Style in Modern Egypt,” in M. Pollak, ed., The Education of the Architect: Historiography, Urbanism, and the Growth of Architectural Knowledge (Cambridge, MA, MIT Press, 1997), 363–86.
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A major section of the wall around the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh was also rebuilt by Isma‘il in 1874. In such work, he usually employed foreign architects, such as the Italian Ciro Pantanelli, who built a neoIslamic sabil-kuttab near the Bab al-Hadid in 1870.90 The trend was consolidated, however, by Tawfiq (with the reconstruction of the mosque of Sayyida Zaynab in 1884), and his successor, ‘Abbas II.91 Among the historic mosques that ‘Abbas totally or partially rebuilt in a neo-Mamluk style are those of al-Azhar, Qawsun, Sayyida ‘Ayesha, Sayyida Nafisa, and Sayyida Sukayna. New mosques included that of al-Hanafi, and al-Rifa‘i (following an inherited plan). The Islamic Museum and the headquarters of the Ministry of Endowments itself are prominent examples of secular buildings also constructed in this style during the tenure of ‘Abbas II. Recent examples of reconstruction following a religious imperative, in this case in a neo-Fatimid mode, have been those undertaken by the Da‘udi Bohra Isma‘ilis on a series of Fatimid religious monuments throughout Cairo.92 These restorations, like those undertaken by the former royal family, are motivated by faith and a desire to see these buildings improved for their users; they remain controversial Fig. 34. The house and sabil of al-Kritliya and the house of Amna bint Salim during the process of clearing structures from around the mosque of Ibn Tulun (top), and after the reconstruction of their façades (bottom). BCCMAA, 1941–45, pls. 9 and 10.
because of the extent and quality of the interventions made to achieve this goal.
Opposite: Emile Béchard, the outer courtyard and wall of the mosque of Ibn Tulun prior to the clearance of surrounding houses, ca. 1880. Albumen print from glass negative, 25.2 x 19.2 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
Mamluk buildings constructed by ‘Abbas II can be interpreted as an assertion of
The trend has continued into the twenty-first century with the replacement of historic elements of the mosque of Fatma al-Nabawiya, the rebuilding of the mosque of Zayn al-Abidin, and extensions to the mosques of Sayyida Zaynab and Sayyida Nafisa—all executed in the neo-Mamluk style. The adoption of an appropriate ‘national style’ of architecture in Egypt became more of an issue after the British Occupation of 1882. In this context, the neonational identity in the face of foreign domination. As the stylistic debate is still alive, it is worth reconstructing something of its history here. After the Ottoman
90 See M. al-Hamamsy, “The Religious Monuments of the Period of Isma‘il Pasha (1863–1879)” (master’s thesis, Department of Arabic Studies, the American University in Cairo, 1992). 91 See M. al-Amroussi, “Selected Religious Buildings from the Period of ‘Abbas Hilmi II (1892–1914)” (master’s thesis, Department of Arabic Studies, the American University in Cairo, 1994). 92 To date these have included the mosques of al-Hakim, al-Aqmar, and Lu’lu’, and the mashhad of alGuyushi. For the context of these restorations, see P. Sanders, “Bohra Architecture and the Restoration of Fatimid Culture,” in M. Barrucand, ed., L’Égypte fatimide: Son art, son histoire (Paris, Université de Paris-Sorbonne, 1999), 159–65.
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conquest of Egypt, the Mamluk architectural tradition survived largely intact with the integration of specific isolated architectural elements and typologies.
93
Muhammad ‘Ali was the first to attempt to impose an alien architectural style, based on models from Albania (the ‘Rumi’ manner), as well as imperial Ottoman prototypes (most notably in his eponymous mosque on the Citadel and other ‘Turkish Baroque’ constructions). He also attempted to alter the appearance of indigenous architecture by proscribing the use of mashrabiya windows in new buildings and by requiring their replacement (with modern casements) in old buildings.94 This took place because the mashrabiya was alleged to be a fire risk, but another reason was wholly symbolic: mashrabiya was considered to be ‘backward.’ A reversal of this process was instigated by the Comité for their own aesthetic reasons. By the end of the nineteenth century, hybrid façades on apartment buildings that sported classical balconies and mashrabiya projections side by side were a commonplace.
93 These include the semicircular arch, the bow-fronted sabil, and the typology of the takiya. 94 See Abu-Lughod, The City Victorious, 94.
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Fig. 35. Plans of the tomb of Shagarat al-Durr and its context. Left above: before disengagement (1902); left below: after the construction of a new zawiya (1919); above: proposal (later executed) for the disengagement of the tomb and construction of a new zawiya by G. Rossi ca. 1914. Comité archive.
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Fig. 36a. Above left: The Ministry of Endowments by Mahmud Fahmi (1898–1929); above right: the house of Hasan Pasha Rashid by Achille Patricolo (ca. 1920); author’s photos. Fig. 36b. Opposite: Pascal Sebah, the sabil-kuttab of Umm Muhammad ‘Ali al-Saghir by Ciro Pantanelli (1870).
A major catalyst for the use of the neo-Islamic style was its popularity with European architects who had been working in Egypt since the time of Pascal Coste. None of Coste’s own proposals for new buildings in this style were adopted by his patron Muhammad ‘Ali, but other architects such as Ambroise Baudry, Julius Franz, and Max Herz met with more favor.95 After 1900, other foreign architects continued to design buildings that ranged from private houses and apartment blocks to government offices and mosques, with various Islamic revival features. With the exception of mosques, these treatments (as they were applied to neoclassical or modern plans and building types) were limited mostly to façades. Alfonso Manescalo was the architect of the new Musée de l’Art Arabe (1903). Mario Rossi, Achille Patricolo, Antoine Lasciac, and Ernest Jaspar all used a variety of Islamic elements in their work, whether for secular or religious projects.96 Egyptian architects also adopted the
95 For Baudry, see Volait and Crosnier-Leconte, L’Égypte d’un architecte, 56–103. For the building of the Gezira Palace (now the Marriott Hotel) by Franz, see T. Sakr, Early Twentieth-Century Islamic Architecture in Cairo (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1993), 47–48. For Herz’s involvement in the Rifa‘i project, see M. al-Asad, “The Mosque of al-Rifa‘i in Cairo,” Muqarnas 10 (1993): 108–24. 96 For Rossi, see A.M. Sidky, “The Modern Mosque in Egypt: The Mosques of Mario Rossi for the Awqaf” (master’s thesis, Department of Arabic Studies, the American University in Cairo, 1998); for Patricolo, see M. Volait, “Grandes demeures du Caire au siècle passé,” Cahiers de la Recherche Architecturale 20/21 (1987): 90–91; for Lasciac, see M. Volait, “Antoine Lasciac (1856–1946): Un architecte face à l’Orient,” in La fuite en Egypte: Supplément aux voyages européens (Cairo: CEDEJ, 1986), 256–81; for Jaspar, see R. Ilbert, Héliopolis, genèse d’une ville, 1905–1922 (Marseille: CNRS, 1981).
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Islamic style wholeheartedly. Mahmud Fahmi al-Mimar (the chief engineer of the Ministry of Endowments after 1907), his son Mustafa Fahmi (director of the Public Buildings Service after 1926), and others such as Farid Shafi‘i were instrumental in the furtherance of neo-Islamic architecture as the approved style for public buildings.97 This included the use of a neo-Fatimid façade (based on the mosque of alAqmar) for the entrance to the Coptic Museum (which was inaugurated in 1947) by Simaika Pasha, who perhaps intended to hint at a Fatimid debt to the Coptic decorative tradition. Almost all of the above mentioned architects, both European and Egyptian, had close ties with the Comité. Since the 1920s, the Islamic Revival style has been challenged by the pharaonic style in the realm of secular architecture. The latter was considered by many to be a more appropriate manifestation of a nationalism that cut across religious distinctions. This is best exemplified by the monuments dedicated to Sa‘ad Zaghloul (whose tomb was also built by Mustafa Fahmi). Today, both Islamic and pharaonic styles are practiced, usually with a split between buildings intended for religious purposes
97 These include the Ministry of Endowments (1898–1929), the Arabic Music Institute (1921–29), the Egyptian Engineers’ Syndicate (1930), and the Parliament Mosque (1930s).
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Fig. 37. South elevation of restaurant in the Aga Khan Park by Dahan and Farid Associates (2004). Courtesy Aga Khan Historic Cities Support Programme and Dahan and Farid Associates.
(such as the Dar al-Ifta: the seat of the Grand Mufti), and those for secular ones (the Constitutional Court). In some cases, such as that of a new restaurant for the park in Darrasa sponsored by the Aga Khan (fig. 37), these buildings incorporate diverse elements deriving from different periods of Islamic architecture within a single structure. Although there is no simple prescription for how best to conserve built heritage, there is a growing consensus that the accumulated historical layers and context of a building should not be simply discarded (whether for aesthetic or other reasons) during this process. Further examples of radical disassociation and the aesthetic imperative in the reconstruction of the Islamic monuments of Cairo, similar to those cited above, abound. In fact, it is altogether rare to find a historic structure in Cairo today that has not undergone significant remodeling over the past century. The ComitÊ had one incontestable reason for embarking on such a course: without radical interventions it was likely that much of the building stock would have vanished completely through degradation rather than surviving in a nonetheless altered state. Its architects operated at a time when the depth of their architectural knowledge was not matched by a similar depth of understanding in addressing the distinctions between reconstruction and conservation. The divergent philosophies of John Ruskin and Eugène Viollet-le-Duc may have been appreciated intellectually, but it was
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almost always the latter’s approach that was (and is) favored. Current proponents of Cairo’s reconstruction cannot claim either historical ignorance or pressing necessity for some of their architectural transformations. These include, by way of example, the further isolation of the northern walls of the city through the demolition of adjacent buildings intra muros, and the rebuilding of the missing courtyard arcades of the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh—on the basis of a perspective drawn by Pascal Coste before the enclosure wall of the mosque was reconstructed in 1874. The policy of legally-sanctioned isolation, which requires the creation of a bufferzone (haram) around a registered monument, risks the destruction of its surrounding urban tissue (both physical and social), depriving the building of its historic context and therefore of much of its meaning. The ultimate destination of such an approach, in the opinion of this author, is a sterile theme park where buildings that are framed as ‘monuments’ no longer contribute to the life of the city but stand as detached three-dimensional cut-outs in a typological or stylistic catalogue. This triumph of taxonomy has encouraged, in the first place, a focus on exclusive stylistic periods rather than an awareness of buildings as the products of an accumulated history, and, in the second, a belief in outward representation as being of more importance than the fundamental spatial paradigms found in the Islamic architecture of Cairo.
Urbanism Cairo is a serial city, the development of which has been governed by a number of factors.98 Its physical limits were imposed by the Muqattam Hills to the east, and the River Nile to the west (fig. 1). The Nile’s course was variable,99 as were its floods, and
98 For studies of the topographical development of the city and its constituent parts during different periods see: P. Ravaisse, “Essai sur l’histoire et la topographie du Caire d’après Makrizi,” part 1: MMAF 1 (1886), 409–80); part 2: MMAF 3 (1889), 33–114; G. Salmon, “Études sur la topographie du Caire. Le kal‘at alKabsh et la Birkat al-Fil,” MMAF 7 (1902); M. Clerget, Le Caire, etude de géographie urbaine et d’histoire économique 2 vols. (Cairo: Schindler, 1934); S.J. Staffa, Conquest and Fusion. The Social Evolution of Cairo AD 642–1850 (Leiden: Brill, 1977); Abu-Lughod, Cairo: One Thousand and One Years of the City Victorious; A. Raymond and G. Wiet, Les marchés du Caire: Traduction annotée du texte de Maqrizi, Textes Arabes et Études Islamiques 14 (Cairo: IFAO, 1979); Hanna, An Urban History of Bulaq in the Mamluk and Ottoman Periods; D. Behrens-Abouseif, Azbakiyya and its environs from Azbak to Isma‘il, 1476–1879, Supplément aux Annales Islamologiques Cahier No. 6 (Cairo, IFAO, 1985); N.D. Mackenzie, Ayyubid Cairo: A Topographical Study (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1992); P. Sanders, Ritual Politics and the City in Fatimid Cairo (Albany: SUNY, 1994); D. Behrens-Abouseif, “AlNasir Muhammad and al-Ashraf Qaytbay—Patrons of Urbanism,” in U. Vermeulen and D. de Smet, eds. Egypt and Syria in the Fatimid, Ayyubid, and Mamluk Eras (Leuven: Peeters, 1995), 267–84; A. Raymond, Le Caire des Janissaires: l’Apogée de la ville ottomane sous ‘Abd al-Rahmân Katkhudâ (Paris: CNRS, 1995); A.F. Sayyid, La Capitale de l’Egypte jusqu’a l’epoque fatimide: al-Qahira et Fustat— Essaide de reconstitution topographique, Beiruter Texte und Studient 48 (Beirut and Stuttgart: Steiner, 1998); S. Denoix, J.-C. Depaule, and M. Tuchscherer, eds., Le Khan al-Khalili: Un centre commercial et artisanal au Caire du XIIIe au XXe siècle, Études Urbaines 4 (Cairo: IFAO, 1999); A. Raymond, Cairo, (Cambridge, MA.: Harvard University Press, 2000). 99 See C.J.R. Haswell, “Cairo, Origins and Development: Some Notes on the Influence of the River Nile and Its Changes,” Bulletin de la Societé Royale de Géographie d’Égypte, vol. 11 (nos. 3 and 4) (1922).
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as a consequence high ground was always preferred for construction. Of the first city, Fustat, founded in the seventh century, we look to archaeology for insight. Of its successors, al-‘Askar and al-Qata’i‘ (eighth to ninth centuries), only the mosque and aqueduct of Ibn Tulun remain. It is the Fatimid, Ayyubid, and Mamluk city (tenth to fifteenth centuries), overlaid with a multitude of later constructions, that we can walk through and appreciate today. The early cities also followed a heterotopic pattern, each being built adjacent to a previous settlement. Fustat was constructed outside the walls of the Roman fortress of Babylon, which had become the administrative center of Byzantine Egypt. The Abbasid and Tulunid foundations of al-‘Askar and al-Qata’i‘ were located slightly to the northeast of Fustat. The virgin site selected for the establishment of Fatimid al-Qahira was again to the north of the earlier cities. Salah al-Din, following Syrian precedent, situated the Ayyubid citadel on a dominant spur of the Muqattam Hills, and for a while development took place along the new axis of power that ran from there to the former Fatimid center. The control and diversion of flood water from the Nile was achieved through the building of canals and artificial lakes, which complemented a preexisting canal, dating from pre-Roman times. This took place most particularly in the time of the Mamluk sultan al-Nasir Muhammad (early fourteenth century), who constructed a second canal (the Khalig al-Nasiri) to the west of its ancient forerunner (the Khalig al-Masri). This allowed more of the area between the Khalig al-Masri and the vagrant river edge to be reclaimed and occupied by buildings, a process that was finally completed only in the late nineteenth century. Under the Mamluks, the city also spread north, to the suburb of Husayniya, and south, toward the mosque of Ibn Tulun. During the Ottoman period, urban developments were concentrated around the lakes of Azbakiya and Birkat al-Fil, as well as in the area immediately to the west of the Khalig al-Masri, and in the port of Bulaq, which served Cairo’s commercial needs. The pace and extent of urban development was also profoundly affected by factors other than the course of the river. Disastrous plagues regularly took their toll on the city and its inhabitants, while new commercial interests such as the lucrative trade in coffee that flourished from the seventeenth century provided the necessary capital for intense periods of building activity. The remarkable ethnic, commercial, and religious diversity of the city, as it developed through time, is marked by an abundance of descriptive toponyms, which survive to this day. Cairo has now made the transition from metropolis to megalopolis.100 The majority of the city’s recent explosive growth is illegal. New developments follow
100 For a study of Cairo’s growth on the occasion of its 1000th anniversary, see R. Marthelot, “Le Caire: Nouvelle Métropole,” Annales Islamologiques 8 (1969): 189–221.
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the preexisting divisions of agricultural land on the edges of the city.101 In the historic center, however, while the pressure for expansion is still acute, growth has generally (though not solely) occurred vertically rather than horizontally, with the result that the street patterns visible in the late eighteenth-century survey of the Description de l’Égypte are still physically apparent. The most obvious feature of this system is the hara, or closed neighborhood, consisting of a network of dead-end streets. Each of these individual clusters was accessible through a gated (and guarded) entrance and possessed a measure of social and political autonomy (fig. 38). The haras still survive as meaningful urban units and provide the city with character, despite the destruction of most of their entry gates (by Napoleon’s soldiers) and despite the erosion of their social and political independence.102 Furthermore, the major Fatimid, Ayyubid, and Mamluk thoroughfares, which connected vital nodes of the city and which were used as the stage for ceremonial processions, are also still intact and lined with monumental architecture. The Qasaba (literally, ‘trachea’) is the spine of the Fatimid city that extends south to the area of al-Qata’i‘. The Darb al-Ahmar connects the Citadel with the Fatimid walled city, and Shari‘ Saliba links the former to the mouth of the Khalig al-Masri (see fig. 1). Complementing the living city are the ‘cities of the dead.’ The major cemeteries of Cairo were located in peripheral zones, the largest of these to the southwest and northeast of the Citadel. Other graveyards were located outside the Bab al-Wazir on the Darb al-Ahmar and beyond the Bab al-Nasr on the northern edge of the Fatimid center. All these cemeteries grew significantly during the twentieth century (with the addition of a major residential component in some cases). They are all still functioning, although plans have been in place for some time to relocate the tombs from the cemetery outside the Bab al-Nasr to the western desert, where the major new cemeteries serving Cairo have been established beside the roads leading to the Fayyum and to Suez. As far as the building stock of the historic city is concerned, the passage of time has taken its toll, as is to be expected. Within the urban core, the process of ruination, whether the result of recurrent famines and plagues or changing economic conditions, was steady. To judge from the laments in the fifteenth-century description of al-Maqrizi, the collapse of the city proceeded almost in tandem with its construction
101 See D. Sims, “Residential Informality in Greater Cairo: Typologies, Representative Areas, Quantification, and Causal Factors,” unpublished report for the Institute for Liberty and Democracy and the Egyptian Center for Economic Studies (Cairo, 2000); E. Denis and M. Séjourné, “Information Systems for Informal Settlements: Predicting Growth through Comparing Satellite Imagery,” unpublished report for the CEDEJ (Cairo, 2002). Sims has established that where informal development is not restricted by agricultural plot boundaries, the network of the hara is adopted almost instinctively. 102 N. al-Messiri Nadim, “The Concept of the Hara: A Historical and Sociological Study of alSukkariyya.” Annales Islamologiques 15 (1979): 313–48. Those that survive include the gate to the Harat al-Mabyada and the Harat al-Sukkariya.
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during certain periods. Of the more than four hundred caravanserai (wikala-funduqkhan-qaysariya), so critical for the mercantile life and physical texture of the city, that are recorded for the Mamluk and Ottoman periods,103 only approximately thirty survive relatively intact today (not all of which are registered monuments). The map and index of the Description de l’Égypte are vital in allowing us to chart a more exact picture of loss since 1800. At the end of the eighteenth century, Cairo had 308 public watering places (watering troughs and fountain-schools), of which approximately ninety remain.104 From the list of one hundred bathhouses noted by the Description de l’Égypte, only fourteen survive.105 Of the sixty-two private houses and palaces catalogued by Edmond Pauty in 1933, twenty have been destroyed and a further five are at grave risk from irreparable disintegration.106 Such statistics point to an urgent need for the enforcement of effective preservation policies. The statutory protection of registered monuments has been theoretically in place since the inception of the Comité in 1881. Unfortunately, however, the index of historic monuments was always limited in its scope. Sometimes only selected elements of any given building were registered, and it was only in 1950 that the remit of classification was extended to cover buildings constructed after the death of Muhammad ‘Ali. Far too many registered monuments were subsequently deregistered, further diminishing the stock of protected buildings.107 Deregistration was carried out whenever it was felt that better exempla of any given building type existed, or when the pressure of urban development manifest in the need for more roads and schools became insuperable. Some attempt has been made to rectify the situation, with sixtyfive buildings within the greater Cairo area added to the register since 1950,108 but the criteria for registration are still vague, and the number of additions falls well short of what is required to preserve what survives of the city’s significant heritage. Furthermore, the need for area conservation, and for the rehabilitation of monuments to serve the needs of the community to which they belong, is still largely ignored.109
103 The total is derived from Raymond and Wiet, Les marchés du Caire, which includes an appendix that lists known Ottoman wikalas. 104 See A. Raymond, “Les fontaines publiques (sabil) du Caire à l’époque ottomane (1517–1798),” Annales Islamologiques 15 (1979): 236–92. 105 See N. Warner, “Taking the Plunge: The Development and Use of the Cairene Bathhouse,” in J. Edwards, ed., Historians in Cairo: Essays in Honor of George Scanlon, (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 2002), 72. 106 E. Pauty, Les palais et les maisons d’époque musulmane au Caire, MIFAO 62 (Cairo: IFAO, 1933). 107 The index of monuments compiled in 1947 runs to 622 buildings, of which approximately 130 were already deregistered by that time. These are simply absent from the numerical sequence. 108 Statistic derived from an unpublished register of Islamic Monuments in the Documentation Center of the Supreme Council of Antiquities, dated 2000. 109 See J. Rodenbeck, “The Present Situation of the Historic City: A Road Not Taken,” in D. BehrensAbouseif, ed., The Cairo Heritage: Essays in Honor of Laila Ali Ibrahim (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 2000), 327–40.
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Fig. 38. Gate to the Harat al-Mabyada (number 356, AH 1084 / AD 1673). Author’s photograph.
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Maps are the primary tool used in the delineation of urban change, and the cartographic history of the city is fortunately rich enough to sustain a study of those changes, street by street and block by block. With reference to the detailed map of Cairo in the Description, and considering the urban core of the city, major alterations to the fabric are immediately apparent. Gone are the relatively modest urban modifications made by Napoleon, notably the rationalization of the periphery of the lake of Azbakiya.110 Gone, indeed, is the lake of Azbakiya itself, together with its counterpart the Birkat al-Fil and the Khalig al-Masri—the canal that once linked them. Azbakiya was replaced by Muhammad ‘Ali with a European-style landscaped garden—today even further truncated—and the Birkat al-Fil was filled in during the 1840s to provide the site for a royal palace and garden. A modern settlement of villas and schools was later established here (the district of Hilmiya).111 The Khalig al-Masri, once fêted by poets, had been completely filled in by 1899, and the sinuous rows of buildings that flanked its course were soon eradicated;112 the canal’s former course has now become a major traffic artery. Seemingly more permanent than any individual building are the city’s rubbish mounds located outside its eastern wall, some of which reach a height of fifty meters. These mounds were started in the time of al-Hakim, and are clearly marked (as monti di scovaze) in the mid-sixteenth-century view of Matteo Pagano (see figs. 3a and 3b). They were employed by Napoleon to dominate the city with artillery and also used for more creative purposes as a vantage point by the artist David Roberts. The rubbish mounds are currently being transformed into a park. Also visible on maps are the results of the pressure to create new access routes Fig. 39. Nineteenth-century road construction in and around the historic city. Dotted lines indicate unexecuted projects. Author’s drawing after J. Abu-Lughod.
through the city and to widen existing ones (fig. 40a). In nineteenth-century Europe, the cutting of roads through medieval centers was linked to miasma theories that fetid air in such dense settlements bred social and physical disease, which could be best combated by the introduction of new avenues to bring fresh air, space, and light to the festering interior. Both Cairo and Istanbul experienced the effects of the application of this theory, which was usually associated with the principles of regularization of the urban fabric and the introduction of new transport systems.113 Shari‘ Muski (named after an Ayyubid amir, ‘Izz al-Din Musk) is the first example
110 The French-built street linking Azbakiya to the Khalig al-Masri survives, however, as the westernmost section of Shari‘ al-Muski. 111 K. Asfour, “The Domestication of Knowledge: Cairo at the Turn of the Century,” Muqarnas 10 (1993): 125–37. 112 The creation of an enlarged square in front of the mosque of Saiyyida Zaynab also dates to this period. 113 For a comparison with Istanbul, see Z. Çelik, The Remaking of Istanbul: Portrait of an Ottoman City in the Nineteenth Century (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1993). For nineteenth-century urbanism in Cairo, see R. Ilbert, “Note sur l’Égypte au XIXe siècle,” Annales Islamologiques 17 (1981): 343–60, esp. 346–48.
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Fig. 40. Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali. The remains of the mosque of Qawsun (202), with new mosque superimposed (U62), surviving buildings of the period of Khedive Isma‘il (U63), new apartment blocks (A), and the new street alignment (B).
in Cairo of a straight route running east-west through the old town. This road was started by the French in 1800, extended by Muhammad ‘Ali and ‘Abbas from 1845 to 1854, and completed in 1874 by Khedive Isma‘il, who continued it up to the desert east of the city. Even more dramatic was the course of the Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali, which was built in 1873 by Isma‘il as an elegant arcaded street two kilometers in length, linking Azbakiya to the Midan al-Rumayla below the Citadel, with the madrasa of Sultan Hasan as its focal point. In such projects, conformity to the rules of perspective and a regular alignment were essential.114 The path of the new street was uncompromising, even slicing through major mosques such as that of Qawsun (fig. 40).115 Scant vestiges of the original khedival buildings that bordered the avenue remain, as this street, too, ironically fell victim to Nasserist road-widening policies initiated in the 1950s.116 Not all the planned new avenues of the nineteenth century were in fact executed, as can be seen from the 1874 map of Pierre Grand.117
114 See Ilbert, “Note sur l’Égypte au XIXe siècle,” 350. 115 For a description, see Abu-Lughod, Cairo, 112 n. 48. 116 Although the project was never completed, it is clear that a reinterpretation of the arcade in a modernist idiom was intended. 117 Pierre-Louis Grand, a French civil engineer, arrived in Egypt in 1868 and was first employed by the Societé Anonyme des Eaux du Caire. In 1871 he directed the Department of the Streets of Cairo before promotion took him, in 1885, to the post of General Director of Cities and Buildings in the Ministry of Public Affairs. See Résumé des travaux de la Société des Ingénieurs Civils de France (1918), 38.
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This shows, for example, the projected path of an avenue connecting the still-tobe-completed mosque of al-Rifa‘i with the mosque of Aqsunqur on the Darb al-Ahmar. Other avenues were planned to intersect the historic center, but were never begun (see fig. 39). This may have been the result of the precedence that the construction of the new ‘European’ city of Isma‘il took over projects in the ‘indigenous’ city. Traffic-engineering projects continued in the twentieth century. Shari‘ al-Azhar, now the major east-west passage through Fatimid Cairo, and Shari‘ al-Gaysh were first cleared in the late 1920s to provide through routes for trams.118 When the former proved insufficient to handle the volume of vehicular traffic, a flyover was added in the early 1980s followed by a tunnel beneath the city in 2002. A secondary east-west axis parallel to the northern walls of the city was also enlarged in 2002 by cutting into the Bab al-Nasr cemetery. The ring road running to the east of the historic zone (Shari‘ Salah Salem) was first constructed in the 1960s. Further changes can be expected. Allied with road construction is the creation of major urban foci (following nineteenth-century precedent) for symbolic or aesthetic reasons. A good example of this is the midan between the mosque of al-Azhar and the mosque of al-Husayn. Its site was originally occupied by a dense web of streets intersected only by Isma‘il’s continuation of the Muski (al-Sikkat al-Gedida). All these structures were swept away in stages from the 1920s to the 1980s to create a large new open space in the heart of the historic city. This space is many times the size of the Bayn al-Qasrayn, the area between the two Fatimid palaces at the center of al-Qahira that was subsequently overbuilt with Mamluk funerary complexes. Such open spaces are extremely rare in the architectural tradition of Cairo,119 where the street has always been the primary urban public space. The integrity of streets was an important issue, and encroachments upon it were traditionally subject to immediate removal. A fourteenth-century manual of the ‘inspector of markets’ (muhtasib) requires those living and working alongside a street to maintain it.120 Other texts, such as al-Maqdisi’s late fifteenth-century Exposition of the Rules Concerning the Streets of Cairo, provide further evidence of the value placed on street improvements.121 A similar respect toward the modern plazas and gardens of the city is often lacking, and so many of these ‘public’ spaces are frequently barred from general use by railings.
118 The clearance was undertaken at the expense of the Tramway Company. See Abu-Lughod, Cairo, 160. 119 The midan al-Rumayla adjacent to the Mamluk hippodrome (the Qaramidan) below the Citadel is another example. 120 Ibn al-Ukhuwwa, The Ma‘alim al-Qurba fi Ahkam al-Hisba, trans. R. Levy, Gibbs Memorial Series 12 (London: Luzac, 1938), 26: “Acts forbidden in the suqs.” 121 Abu Hamid al-Maqdisi (ed. Amal al-‘Imari), Kitab al-fawa’id al-nafisa al-bahira fi bayan hukm shawari‘ al-Qahira fi madhahib al-a’imma al-arba‘a al-zahira, Cairo: Egyptian Antiquities Organization, 1988. This manuscript is now in the Süleymaniye University Library (MS. 1177).
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Major damage to the urban matrix has also been caused by the construction of new schools and housing on the sites of private properties that were sequestrated after the 1952 Revolution. These developments, which are designed as freestanding blocks, have been harmful from an architectural and urbanistic perspective, however necessary they may be deemed to be from a social or educational viewpoint. The new blocks, which conform to standard model, destroy the continuity of streets and create empty wastelands around them. Their design exhibits the worst characteristics of modernist object-buildings, eradicating large areas of the old urban fabric.122 In its scale, the most spectacular example of such a development is the modern campus of al-Azhar University to the east of the eponymous mosque. In the 1950s, the existing network of streets was demolished to make way for the new campus structures (fig. 41a). A few registered monuments (the mosque of al-Ghurayib [no. 448], the qa‘a al-Ghannamiya [no. 96], and the house of Zaynab Khatun [no. 77]) were retained from the preexisting pattern, and these buildings now stand, forlorn and deprived of their original context, in a largely alien environment. Other historic buildings were simply demolFig. 41b. Maq‘ad of the demolished house of Shaykh al-Sayim (437). Photographer unknown, ca. 1930. Comité archive. No photographs are known to survive of the other demolished buildings in this area.
ished, including four previously registered Ottoman monuments (the house of Shaykh al-Sayim, the sabil of ‘Uthman ‘Abdallah, the sabil of ‘Ayesha alSutuhiya, and the Bab al-Khala). Given such violations of the integrity of the historic center of the city, it is instructive to examine the position of the Comité prior to 1952 and its reactions to what were often irresistible external pressures for change. Cognizance of the value of the historic city as an integral sum of many parts was implicit from the beginning of the Comité’s attempt to record and maintain the monuments of the city. This concern was made explicit only much later, however, by Edmond Pauty, the chief of the Comité’s Technical Bureau, in a number of published reports. These took as their axiom the principle that the city itself was the primary historic monument to be protected.123 Pauty was also an advocate for a more sophisticated approach to the registration of historic buildings by area, a more qualitative assessment of the building stock, and a more refined system of conservation interventions. His approach was never fully acted upon. In 1979, the recognition of the historic city of Cairo as an artifact worthy of protection was given by UNESCO, which included it in the World Heritage site
122 See discussion in C. Rowe and F. Koetter, Collage City (Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 1983), 50–85. 123 See E. Pauty, “Rapport général sur la défense de l’ancienne ville du Caire et des monuments historiques arabes et coptes,” BCCMAA (1927–29): 170–84. The report was revised and subsequently appeared with the title “La défense de l’ancienne ville du Caire et de ses monuments,” in BIFAO 31 (1931): 135–76, and later under the title “Rapport sur la protection de l’ancienne ville,” in BCCMAA (1933–35): 210–14.
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77: House of Zaynab Khatun (isolated from context); 96: madrasat al-Ghannamiya (isolated from entrance [U26]); 97: mosque of al-Azhar (Bab al-Shurba [A] deprived of context); (437): house of Shaykh alSayim [demolished]; (447): sabil-kuttab of ‘Uthman ‘Abdallah Roq‘et al-Qamh (demolished); 448: mosque and sabil of Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghurayib (isolated from context); (506): sabil-kuttab of Ayesha al-Sutuhiya (demolished); (551): Bab al-Khala al-Qarafa [al-Ghurayib] (demolished).
A
Fig. 41a. Area of the al-Azhar University campus with post-1950 development (demolished streets and buildings are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
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list.124 The citation does not, however, define the physical area of the city considered so worthy of protection.125 Numerous examples serve to illustrate the Comité approach to the problem of what to do with registered monuments that stood in the way of urban change. In general terms this was to rescue the artifact by dismantling and reconstructing it elsewhere, an approach that could be adopted for smaller buildings but that was unfeasible for larger ones, of which only isolated pieces were saved. The same examples also demonstrate the Comité’s attitude toward urban planning and aesthetic issues. In many ways this approach set a conservation precedent for the more spectacular Nubian Campaign of the 1950s and 1960s, when monuments were routinely sawn up and transported great distances before being reassembled. Four areas are selected here for detailed examination: the Midan al-Husayn, the area immediately outside the Bab Zuwayla, the northern walls, and the area of the former canal (the Khalig al-Masri, now Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id) at its junction with Shari‘ al-Azhar.126
Midan al-Husayn Of the early structure of the mosque of al-Husayn, only the Ayyubid minaret and gate beneath it (the Bab al-Akhdar) survive (no. 28, AH 549–634 / AD 1154–1237). The bulk of the neo-Gothic/Islamic mosque was built in the 1870s under royal patronage, and this was extended in matching style during the 1950s. This latter extension blocked the Bab al-Akhdar from use as a through route under the minaret (in a design parallel to that of the minaret of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub in the Bayn al-Qasrayn). Such a passage between urban blocks was in any case rendered obsolete by the progressive removal of the blocks themselves after 1920 (see figs. 42a and 42b). A number of other registered monuments were also affected by the clearance in the area, notably the sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad/al-Maghlawi/al-Manawi (no. 57,
AH
1068 /
AD
1657), the sabil al-Bazdar (no. 27, eleventh century AH / seventeenth century AD), the hammam al-‘Adawi (formerly no. 567, thirteenth century AD),
AH
/ nineteenth century
a house in the waqf of al-Haramayn (formerly no. 400, twelfth century
eighteenth century
AD),
and the khan al-Zarakisha (no. 351, ca.
AH
915 /
AD
AH
/
1509).
Clearance in the area began in the 1920s in order to provide an eastern terminus for the tramway running from Ataba to al-Azhar. It was continued during the 1930s
Fig. 42b. Photographs of the Bab al-Akhdar before (top) and after clearance from the K.A.C. Creswell archive. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo. The view and passageway is now blocked by later additions to the mosque of al-Husayn.
124 The World Heritage List Nomination File for Cairo (26 October 1979); see Report of the Rapporteur on the Third Session of the World Heritage Committee, no. CC-79/CONF.003/13 (30 November 1979). 125 See UNESCO, International Symposium on the Restoration and Conservation of Islamic Cairo (Paris: UNESCO World Heritage Centre Working Document, 2002), 3–6 and 5 n. 3. This document also lists all reports and studies on Historic Cairo carried out from 1979 to 2002 by UNESCO and the UNDP. 126 For detailed references to the individual buildings cited in the following discussion, see the respective entries in the accompanying descriptive catalogue.
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27: sabil al-Bazdar (moved from 27A); 28: gateway and minaret of the mosque of alHusayn (the gateway [Bab al-Akhdar] isolated from its context); 57: sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (moved from 57A); 97: mosque of al-Azhar (demolished ablutions area and north gate of Qaytbay shown dotted on plan); 351: khan al-Zarakisha; (400): manzil in the waqf of al-Haramayn (demolished); (567): hammam al-‘Adawi (demolished).
Fig. 42a. Midan al-Husayn showing post-1950 development (demolished streets and buildings are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
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in the area between the mosques of al-Husayn and al-Azhar, where these buildings were located. In 1931, the Comité decided to move the sabils to nearby sites that were agreed on with the Ministry of Public Works (Tanzim), and this was finally accomplished in 1936. The process of transfer cannot have been an easy one, as is apparent from an examination of the plans of the sabil al-Bazdar before and after it was moved. Not only was the sabil part of a much later mosque that was ‘left behind’ in the move, but it also did not fit the plot assigned to it and so, to deal with the problem, a secondary portal was reoriented at right angles to the main façade whereas previously it had been contiguous with it (fig. 42c). The reconstruction of the sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad follows a rigidly orthogonal plan (which is unlikely to have been original), in a laudable attempt to provide for the reuse of the building as a school (fig. 42d). Needless to say, the original water-cisterns under both these buildings were also abandoned in the move, although (whether by chance or design is unclear) the buildings were reconstructed in roughly the same orientation with respect to the cardinal points and to each other. The transfer also resulted in great confusion as at sometime during the process the registration numbers (27 and 57) were swapped: the true identity of each building can only be identified by reference to old drawings in the archives of the Comité and a study of the foundation inscription on one of the sabils. As for the bathhouse, it is present on maps until at least 1950; it remains on the published list of registered monuments despite the fact that it no longer exists (fig. 42e). Its demolition is presumed to have occurred in the 1950s with a later enlargement of the square in front of the mosque of al-Azhar. The same fate attended the house in the waqf of alHaramayn (the exact position of which, close to the khan al-Zarakisha, is still unknown). This house, with its soaring reception room, would undoubtedly have posed more of a challenge to move (fig. 42f). The façade of the khan al-Zarakisha, by contrast, was overhauled with new mashrabiya in the 1920s in order to provide an ‘embellissement’ for the new tram terminus (fig. 42g). The work did not extend to the interiFig. 42g. Photographs of the façade of the khan al-Zarakisha (no. 351) before (top) and after restoration. BCCMAA, 1936–40, pl. 20 and pl. 21.
or of this building, however, which remains derelict to this day. The legacy of these various piecemeal interventions is an ill-defined urban space, which is currently the subject of a new project proposal.127 At al-Azhar itself, the demolition of the ablutions block, two teaching areas (the riwaq al-Sharqiya dated 1810 and the riwaq al-Hanafiya dated 1862), and a gateway built by Sultan Qaytbay, all of which were located on the northern side of the mosque, took place after 1988.128 This required the construction of a new façade facing the midan, which was built in imitation of those constructed in 1897 by Khedive ‘Abbas II. 127 See Ministry of Culture, Arab Republic of Egypt, Historic Cairo (Cairo: Supreme Council of Antiquities, 2002), 485–98. 128 These elements are described as intact in V. Seton-Williams and P. Stocks, Blue Guide Egypt (London: A. & C. Black, 1988), 261.
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5 5
Fig. 42c. Plans of the sabil al-Bazdar (no. 27) before (top) and after transfer.
Fig. 42d. Plan of the sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (no. 57) after transfer. Comité archive.
5
Fig. 42e. Plan and section of the demolished hammam al-‘Adawi (567). Comité archive.
Fig. 42f. Section of the demolished manzil in the waqf of alHaramayn (400). BCCMAA, 1909, pl. 11.
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Please remove moiree on all 3 images Midan Bab Zuwayla In 1915, the Comité was informed of the Tanzim’s plan to widen the street of Taht alRab‘ (running east-west outside the Bab Zuwayla). One registered monument stood within the swathe of structures to be demolished: the zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq (no. 203, AH 811 / AD 1408). The decision was made in 1915 to move this building to a new emplacement some four meters to the south (fig. 43b). The reconstruction was carried out at a higher level in order to accommodate the rise in the surrounding ground that had occurred over the centuries since the building was first constructed. The project was eventually commenced in October 1922 and completed in April 1923. At the same time as the road-widening exercise was going on, the Comité was also actively pursuing its own urban beautification campaign, which involved several other monuments adjacent to the Bab Zuwayla. The objective here was to create what was referred to as ‘Place Bab Zuwayla’: an open area in front of the gate that would suitably frame two great Fatimid buildings: Bab Zuwayla itself (no. 199, AH 485 / AD Fig. 43b. Photograph of the façade of the zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq before transfer, BCCMAA, 1920–24, pl. 1.
1092) and the mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘ (no. 116,
AH
555 /
AD
1160). The former had
already been stripped of accretions (included an entire Ottoman-period apartment complex) and the upper tiers of its minarets had been replaced with a standardized design. The mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘ had to be entirely excavated from several hundred years of later buildings that had grown up around it. This work was carried out from 1915 onward and resulted in a heavy reconstruction of the front of the mosque in the ‘Fatimid style,’ as well as the loss (the result of a disagreement with the Ministry of Endowments) of a Mamluk minaret that had been constructed above the entrance to the mosque (fig. 43d). The ‘excavation’ of the mosque also had implications for adjacent structures. A new symmetrical façade for the northern entrance to the Khiyamiya was constructed, as well as a new matching façade outside the building line’s original position on the west side of the street (fig. 43e). Next to the Bab Zuwayla itself stood the remains of two eighteenth-century Ottoman houses named after their owners: Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati. The Comité originally intended to demolish the two houses in order to expose a lateral view of the gate from the east, but this decision was rescinded, and the façades of both houses were registered jointly (no. 368). The façades were then thoroughly overhauled with the introduction of new mashrabiya elements, and the project was completed in 1940 (fig. 43c). Although still officially registered, the houses no longer stand today, as it seems that they suffered from structural failure and were dismantled in the 1960s. The Comité were particularly proud of their efforts at ‘Place Bab Zuwayla’ (see fig. 43a) but the work carried out underlines the problems attendant on the large-scale
Fig. 43c. Photographs of the houses of Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati before (top) and after restoration. BCCMAA, 1936–40, pl. 24 and pl. 25.
practice of façadism. The zawiya-sabil of Farag ibn Barquq was never used after its transfer, and the houses of Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati were restored only as far as their outward aspect was concerned; both collapsed soon afterwards. The
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116: mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘ (isolated from context); 190: mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh; 199: Bab Zuwayla; 203: zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq (moved from 203A); 368: façade of the houses of Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati (demolished); 406: western side of the qasaba of Radwan Bey (entrance remodeled); 408: eastern side of the qasaba of Radwan Bey (entrance remodeled); (409): northern block of the qasaba of Radwan Bey (façades cut back and partially remodeled).
Fig. 43a. Area around Bab Zuwayla showing post-1900 development (demolished streets and buildings are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
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Fig. 43d. Photographs of the mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘ before (right), during (top left) and after isolation and rebuilding. From the K.A.C. Creswell archive, Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
extension of the development of Radwan Bey immediately to the west of the zawiyasabil of Farag ibn Barquq still bears the scars of where it was truncated in 1915; this section of the building was never officially registered despite being a part of a unitary complex.129 Façadism is still a governing principle in current restoration attempts in the area. In 2002, the entire western side of the Qasaba of Radwan Bey was cleaned and repaired with certain omissions. No roof was put in place, no electricity or water supply was installed for the upper floors, and no proposal was made for the structure’s reuse and reintegration into the economic life of the city.
129 No fewer than three separate numbers are used to register the various parts of this complex, and even so not all of the building is registered.
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Fig: 43e. Top: Photograph of the entrance to the qasaba of Radwan Bey after disengagement; bottom: Elevation of the modified northern façade of the eastern and western blocks of the qasaba of Radwan Bey (left), and elevation of the new eastern façade of the northern block. Comité archive.
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The Northern Walls Major clearance of the area outside the northern walls of the city, dating to the Fatimid and Ayyubid periods, commenced in the 1940s (see fig. 44c). K.A.C. Creswell was one of the prime movers of this project, which aimed to strip the walls of later accretions. Sacrifices were inevitable, and these included two adjacent registered Ottoman-period structures: the sabil of Salim Agha (formerly no. 429,
AH
1166 /
AD
1753) built next to
the Bab al-Nasr and the mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya (formerly no. 558, before
AH
1169 /
AD
1755) constructed
by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda immediately outside the Bab al-Futuh. Plans to clear the area around this gate had been proposed as early as 1889.130 A later project envisioned the Bab al-Futuh sitting within a sunken symmetrical garden with access roads cut through the walls to either side of it. If this had been executed, the gate would have lost its function and become a large garden ornament (fig. 44b). Subsequent demolition was not, however, limited to the area outside the walls. To the west of the Bab al-Futuh, a cordon sanitaire was created within the walls during the 1950s, and to the east of the Bab al-Nasr the same was accomplished in 2000. This act of separation has resulted in the large-scale reconstruction of the wall in modern masonry and has effectively destroyed any authentic relationship it once had with the city behind it. A small coda to the policy of isolation initiated in this area during the 1940s is provided by the fate of a late-Mamluk mausoleum with a masonry dome that was attached to the entrance of the mosque of al-Hakim (fig. 44c): the mausoleum of Qurqumas (no. 170, AH 917 / AD 1511). In 1983, the demolition of this tomb was unexpectedly comFig. 44b. Unexecuted project for the isolation of Bab al-Futuh. Comité archive.
menced by the Shi‘a Bohra sect, an Isma‘ili group that had embarked on the restoration of the mosque of al-Hakim, in an attempt to clear the entrance façade of ‘encumbrances.’ Following an intervention by the Antiquities Service, the ‘offending’ tomb was removed and rebuilt on virgin ground in the northern cemetery.131 130 The project was rejected by the Comité. See BCCMAA 1889: 34–35. 131 For the conceptual clash between restorations inspired by religious belief and those deemed acceptable to the international conservation community, see p. Sanders, “The Contest over Context: Fatimid Cairo in the Twentieth Century” in I.A. Bierman ed., Text and Context, in Islamic Societies: Sixteenth Giorgio Levi della Vida Conference Papers (London: Ithaca Press, 2004), 123–47.
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6: Bab al-Futuh; 7: Bab al-Nasr; 9: wikala of Qaytbay (upper stories rebuilt); 15: mosque of al-Hakim; (170): mausoleum of Qurqumas (moved to eastern cemetery); 352: Northern Walls (clearance and rebuilding); (429): sabil of Salim Agha (demolished); (558): mosque of Ayesha alSutuhiya (demolished).
Fig. 44a. Area around the Northern Walls showing post-1900 development (demolished streets and buildings are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
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Fig. 44c. The sabil of Salim Agha before demolition (this page top); the area inside the Bab al-Futuh showing the domed mausoleum of Qurqumas before removal (bottom); the exterior of the Northern Walls before (facing page top) and after (bottom) clearance in the 1940s. All photographs from the K.A.C. Creswell archive, Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
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Shari‘ Bur Said The Khalig al-Masri, the course of which is followed by the present-day Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id, was substantially filled in by Khedive Isma‘il in the 1870s. The buildings that flanked it were not completely demolished, however, until the 1950s. Casualties included a famous Ottoman-period house, the Bayt al-Mufti, the exact location of which remains unknown (fig. 45d).132 The ribat al-Zayni (no. 141), constructed by the qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din in
AH
856 /
AD
1452, shared a similar fate. Another
mosque (no. 182, AH 848 / AD 1444) built by the same founder slightly to the south of his ribat had a different future. The Comité began working on this building between 1884 and 1897, initially disengaging it from its surrounding context. The disengagement required the creation of a partially new northern façade and an entirely new southern façade, which went through many permutations before a final design was selected for construction (figs. 45b and 45c). In the early 1950s, a nineteenth-century sabil (the sabil of Umm Husayn Bey, dating from
AH
1270 /
AD
1853) was rebuilt on the mosque’s western side, having been relocated there from a nearby site on the Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id (fig. 45d). The third major historic structure in this area was a mosque constructed by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: the mosque of al-Hifni (formerly no. 451, AH 1172 / AD 1759). Only the façade of this building was registered (fig. 45d); the Comité subsequently declassified it and allowed demolition to proceed. When initially approached by the Tanzim about the fate of all three of these buildings, the Comité was determined to save them in situ: it must be deemed a success that two of the three were saved, even if one of them had to be moved. Fig. 45b. Plans of the Mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din before (top) and after (bottom) isolation. Latter includes the addition of the sabil of Umm Husayn on the northwestern corner. Comité and SCA archives.
It is unlikely that the present situation of these two structures, which are today marooned on a traffic island surrounded by flyovers, could have been anticipated. Other examples of the reconstruction of buildings can be discovered from a detailed perusal of the archives of the Comité. The sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan (no. 420, AH 1246 / AD 1830) located on Shari‘ Taht al-Rab‘ was moved in the 1950s (fig. 46). The sabil-kuttab of Sitt Saliha (no. 313,
AH
1154 /
AD
1751), was set back
from its position on Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id during the same period. Lest it be thought that such treatment was reserved exclusively for sabils, there is the case of the mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir (no. 565, before
AH
1233 /
AD
1817), which was
moved from near Sayyida Zaynab to its present location in 1951.133 The portal of the wikala of Qawsun (no. 11, before
AH
742 /
AD
1341), the first wikala built in
Cairo, was saved when the entire building fell victim to a road-widening project (which was subsequently abandoned), and rebuilt on a new alignment (fig. 47).
132 See BCCMAA (1912) (appendix to fasc. 29): 119–20, with accompanying photos, for a historical description by Max Herz of this intriguing building. 133 At about the same time, a smaller Mamluk tomb (of Gamal al-Din in Darb al-Sa‘ada) was moved to the garden of the Bayt al-Sihaymi. See BCCMAA (1946–53): 419–20.
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182: mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din (isolated from context); 184: mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri; (451): façade of the mosque of al-Hifni (demolished); U36: sabil of Umm Husayn (moved from U36A).
Fig. 45a. Junction of Shari‘ Bur Said and Shari‘ al-Azhar showing demolished blocks (dashed) and new flyovers (dotted and dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
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Fig. 45c. Proposals for new northern elevation of the mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din (top design built). Comité archive.
Fig. 45d. Top to bottom: Photograph of the sabil of Umm Husayn before transfer. BCCMAA, 1946–53, pl. 8. Photograph of the façade of the mosque of al-Hifni prior to demolition. Comité archive. The interior of the Bayt al-Mufti. This famous house, now demolished, is known to have been located in the area of Shari’ Bur Said adjacent to Shari’ al-Azhar. Photographer unknown (late nineteenth century). Private collection.
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Fig. 46. Plan showing the relative positions of the sabil of Hasan Agha Arzinghan (420) before (A) and after (B) transfer.
Most recently, in 1997, the zawiya of 窶連bd al-Rahman Katkhuda at Magharbellin (no. 214,
AH
1142 /
AD
1729) was completely dismantled and rebuilt on the same
site but at a higher level. The displacement of entire buildings is one manner in which their historical and topographical authenticity can be compromised. The isolation of buildings deemed to be monuments from their immediate surroundings is another. A concentration on the representational apparatus of the faﾃｧade in preference to the structural integrity, servicing, and function of a building has less drastic, but more insidious, effects. One example of this is the fact that few sewers have been installed beneath the streets in the historic center; doing so would usefully contribute to the lowering of the fatally high water table that adversely affects all the buildings in the area.134 The stripping of accumulated historical layers, on the scale of individual buildings as well as entire neighborhoods, can sometimes be justified. When practiced without discrimination, however, this process inevitably
134 At the time of going to press, a major sewage infrastructure project for the Fatimid center has been initiated by the Egyptian government.
U R B A N I S M
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Fig. 47. Plan showing the relative positions of the portal of the wikala of Qawsun (11) before (A) and after (B) transfer.
leads to an impoverishment of experience on many levels. Two of these are the architectural and the urban. The post-1950 changes and additions to the urban Opposite: Photograph of the portal of the wikala of Qawsun before isolation and transfer. ComitĂŠ archive.
landscape of Cairo may be said to facilitate traffic flow and to provide a framework for improved social housing or education. They cannot, however, be seen as successful attempts at integration with the traditional morphology and architecture of the historic center. Nor are they representative of sophisticated urban planning concepts or high standards of architectural design. Furthermore, if trades that have in many cases been practiced on the same spot for hundreds of years are relocated, this will damage forever the broader cultural milieu of the historic city. Let us hope that an evolving policy for the retention of nondestructive trades will be adopted, thus keeping the city a vital, energetic place. With so many buildings designated as monuments already lying empty and locked, there is a manifest risk that the historic city could become a shell, populated solely by tourists and those that cater to them. It is now time to appreciate that Cairo is not just a sum of its monuments but a dynamic organism that requires knowledge and use of the past to create a meaningful future.
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Note on Sources, Cartography, and Architectural Drawings Sources
T
he “Index to Mohammedan Monuments Appearing on the Special 1:5000 Scale Maps of Cairo” (Cairo: Survey of Egypt, 1947) provided the main listing of registered monuments within the area encompassed by the map sheets and included in the descriptive catalogue. This was supplemented
with information from an unpublished list of deregistered monuments produced by the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation in 1951. Where recent scholarship has indicated that the attributions of the monument’s name or date in the published index are erroneous, a revised listing has been made and the change noted. Attention is also drawn to the publication by the Supreme Council of Antiquities in 2000 of a new listing (in Arabic) of registered monuments. This was used to determine which buildings were legally registered as monuments since the publication of the 1947 Index. The Bulletins du Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe are an essential companion to any serious study of the Islamic architecture of Cairo. Published from 1883 to 1961, they contain a wealth of information about the histories and restorations of nearly all the registered monuments included in the Monuments of Historic Cairo. This series has no comprehensive index. For Bulletin references prior to 1910, an index was published by Max Herz in 1914, which is referred to as a key for earlier references. Another important and complementary index was published by Achille Patricolo in the Bulletin for the years 1915–19. While every attempt has been made to collate the most important references to particular buildings within all the Bulletins, it is likely that many passing or global references have been omitted. Unless otherwise noted, the first edition of each Bulletin has been referenced. Since the completion of the Map, the Bulletins of the Comité have been made available to researchers in digital form on-line (http://www.islamicart.org/comitte/Comite.asp). This will undoubtedly facilitate future work in this field.
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A note of warning should be sounded about the vagaries of the Comité system of registration. Not only do buildings have multiple names (often bearing no relation to one another), but they are frequently registered by element (e.g., façade only). Definitions have in many cases clearly changed or been extended since the time of the Comité, and an attempt has been made to bring the listings in line with what survives on the ground of the original historic fabric of these structures. The overlapping terminology used to describe them (e.g., ‘mosque’ or ‘madrasa,’ ‘sabil’ or ‘sabil-kuttab’) has been modified for consistency, although this falls short of being in any way comprehensive. Since survey work was completed in 2000, the number of ongoing restoration projects in Cairo has increased dramatically. Further changes are also apparent in the urban fabric. It has not been possible to update all of the catalogue entries for individual buildings to reflect their current condition, nor alter the map sheets to reflect the present condition on the ground. Also deserving of special mention are the large number of unpublished master’s theses in the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of the American University in Cairo deriving from the university’s graduate program in Islamic Art and Architecture. These provide a great deal of useful reference material about particular buildings, periods, typologies, and urban areas.
Cartography The main cartographic sources utilized for the maps of Historic Cairo are: The 1:500 Cadastral Series produced by the Egyptian Survey Authority from 1933 to 1960, with some later revisions. These provided the basic plot outlines for the area included in The Monuments of Historic Cairo. A complete list of these maps appears below, and the relevant part of their key plan is reproduced in the introduction (pl. 11). The 1:1000 Series produced by the Egyptian Survey Authority in several editions. The first edition, in color, dates from 1912 and comprises some 150 sheets covering the bulk of the urban area to the east of the Nile. Subsequent editions (in black and white from 1925–31) extended this coverage. These maps provided supplementary information on the position of now destroyed urban fabric and demolished monuments as well as cemetery areas. A key plan of these maps is illustrated in the introduction (fig. 12). The 1:5000 Series produced from aerial photographs by the Consortium SFS/IGN France in 1977–78, for Egypt’s Ministry of Housing and New Communities. These maps (specifically, nos. I 14, I 15, J 14, J 15) were used to locate the positions of major new buildings, such as schools and apartment blocks, within the fabric of the historic city. They also provided the spot heights that appear on the map. The 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments of Cairo, first edition (Cairo: Survey of Egypt, 1924), and second edition (Cairo: Survey of Egypt, 1950). C A R T O G R A P H Y
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These sources were supplemented with some detailed surveys of smaller areas carried out by the Arab Bureau of Consultants (Shari‘ al-Azhar and Midan al-Husayn), the École d’Architecture de Versailles (Khan Abu-Takiya and al-Ghuri), and Caravan Consultants (Darb al-Ahmar and Darrasa). As none of the above sources were in themselves comprehensive or current, an amalgam of them was created in an attempt to represent best the nature of the historic city, both past and present.
Architectural Drawings Each map sheet displays a combined magnetic north and qibla bearing. The qibla bearing that is employed here is 135 degrees east of magnetic north (the correct bearing for Cairo). No attempt has been made to differentiate the numerous other qibla directions used in the city during different historical periods. All the registered monuments that appear on the map have plans drawn in solid black, whether they are included in the 1947 Index or were subsequently registered. In the latter case, these monuments appear in the U-prefix series of numbers. Deregistered monuments are shown, where they survive, in outline: a convention shared with unregistered monuments. Demolished structures whose plans are known are shown in dashed lines. Not all the buildings shown on the map are represented in ground plan: sometimes the first-floor plan of a building is more revealing of its general orientation, and so it is the significant plan level that has been chosen for representation. Very occasionally, a plan is split to show both ground floor and first floor, for example the mosque of Sulayman Agha (no. 382). A wide variety of sources was used for the plans of individual buildings that appear in the map. The principal source was published information, supplemented by plans from the archives of the Supreme Council for Antiquities (SCA). These archives date from the period of the Comité; they have been supplemented with survey information of more recent date provided by the Architects’ Department within the SCA. All the plans have been checked for general accuracy and updated where necessary. Many individuals have contributed specific plans, and all sources are fully acknowledged in the descriptive catalogue that accompanies the map. Where no published or archival plans of buildings existed, individual surveys were carried out. In most cases this consisted of tape surveys, but occasionally theodolite surveys were also used (as for the eastern city-walls).
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The drawings for the map were executed in pen and ink on thirty-one polyester film sheets of A0 (841 x 1189 mm) size at a scale of 1:500. They are reproduced at a scale of 1:1250. The key to the representation of individual features on the drawings is given on page 252. The main sources for published plans have been: for religious and defensive architecture before the Ottoman period: Creswell, K. A. C. 1952. The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 1: Ikshids and Fatimids, AD
939–1171. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
———. 1959. The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 2: Ayyubids and Early Bahrite Mamluks,
AD
1171–1326. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
for domestic architecture: Maury, B., A. Raymond, J. Revault, and M. Zakariya. 1983. Palais et maisons du Caire: 2. Époque ottomane (XVIe–XVIIIe siècles). Paris: CNRS. Maury, B., J. Revault, M. Zakariya, and J.-C. Garcin. 1982. Palais et maisons du Caire: 1 Époque mamelouke (XIIIe–XVIe siècles). Paris: CNRS. for the Mamluk period in general: Meinecke, M. 1992. Die mamlukische Architektur in Ägypten und Syrien (648/1250 bis 923/1517). 2 vols. ADAIK, Islamische Reihe 5. Glückstadt: J. J. Augustin. Kessler, C. 1971. Survey and Documentation of the Domed Funerary Architecture of Mamluk Cairo: Deposit Copies of Plans and Photographs. Washington, D.C.: The Smithsonian Institution (a duplicate set of these plans and documents is in the holdings of the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of the American University in Cairo).
A R C H I T E C T U R A L
D R A W I N G S
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Descriptive Catalogue Catalogue numbers through no. 619 are equivalent to the monument numbers published in the Index of Monuments, as amended over time by the Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe (the last English edition of the Index was published in 1951; the last Arabic edition of the Index was published in 2002 by the Supreme Council of Antiquities [SCA]). Numbers in parentheses designate registered monuments that have been formally removed from the Index or that are no longer extant in the form that warranted their original inclusion. Items with a U-prefix (which follow no. 619) designate unregistered buildings (in a few instances, these are monuments that have been registered after 1951 without a number). Observations on the condition of the monuments, by and large, date prior to 2001. A list of the abbreviations used in this catalogue can be found on p.194
3 Mausoleum and minaret of Abu’l Ghadanfar AH 552 and 867 / AD 1157 and 1462 The site of this building was originally a Fatimid Map sheet mashhad for Sayyid Mu’ad (Sidi Ma‘az), who died in 5 AD 907. The site was subsequently built on by the amir Abu’l Ghadanfar, who added a madrasa in 1157. All that remains from this date is the stuccoed-brick minaret, which manifests a transition from Fatimid to Ayyubid styles; the adjacent tomb of the saint is a fifteenth-century Mamluk addition, built of brick. There is one inscription in kufic over the entrance to the tomb and another mounted on the qibla wall. Stone walls lying to the west of the tomb may date from the earlier period of construction. The mosque that stands to the south of these structures is modern.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1918, 65–66; Creswell 1952, 274; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 61; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 218; Meinecke 1992, II:108, 390; Sayyid 1998, 662–64 Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], xxxiii; BCCMAA 1913, 106; BCCMAA 1915–19, 38–39, 432, 445, 464, 585, 818
6 Bab al-Futuh AH 480 / AD 1087 This gate, together with its counterpart the Bab Map sheet al-Nasr (no. 7) and the section of wall between them 18 (no. 352), was built by the Fatimid vizier Badr alGamali in AD 1087. He moved the line of the original enclosure wall for the city of al-Qahira (built by Gawhar al-Siqilli in 969) out to its present position and employed stone for its construction rather than the bricks used by his predecessor. The Bab al-Futuh (‘the Gate of Conquests’) is a masterpiece of stonework and decorative detail, which has been exhaustively described by Creswell (1952). The ground level around the gate has risen considerably since its construction, leading to a false impression of its original vertical scale. The gate itself, as well as the section of wall between it and the Bab alNasr, was restored between 2001 and 2003; urban clearance has taken place in the area immediately outside and a protective fence installed. A small, unidentified saint’s tomb is built within the doorway on its eastern flank. A round tower and a square stone tower containing a vast vaulted chamber, both built by Badr al-Gamali, are situated to the west of the gate. These towers are classified separately under no. 352.
Plan: Creswell 1952, 177 References: Creswell 1919, 54; Creswell 1952, 176–81; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 229; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 67–71; Bierman 1998, 73, 79, 93, 105, 124; Sayyid 1998, 152–54; 405–17; Blair 1999, 115 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 34–35; BCCMAA 1890, 90–91; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 17; BCCMAA 1895, 97, 119; BCCMAA 1896, 58, 121–22; BCCMAA 1899, 69; BCCMAA 1900, 86; BCCMAA 1901, 66–67, 103; BCCMAA 1908, 53, 75; BCCMAA 1909, 10–11, 105–6, 136; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 55–56; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 77, 82–83; BCCMAA 1925–26, 122; BCCMAA 1930–32, 2; BCCMAA 1936–40, 288, 339; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 34, 52, 71, 83, 86, 92, 126, 151, 161, 165, 206, 263, 290, 320, 340, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 33, 46, 63, 86, 107–10, 194, 244, 278, 325; SCA 2002, 61–62
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7 Bab al-Nasr 480 / AD 1087 The Bab al-Nasr (‘the Gate of Victory’) is architecMap sheet turally distinguished from its counterpart, the Bab 11 al-Futuh (no. 6), by having square rather than rounded towers. It was originally named the Bab al-Izz (‘the Gate of Glory’) but soon came to known as the Bab al-Nasr after the counterpart gate in Cairo’s first wall (now demolished) built by Gawhar al-Siqilli some two hundred meters to the south of the present emplacement. The same persistence of an older nomenclature applied to the Bab alFutuh, which was originally called the Bab al-Iqbal (‘the Gate of Prosperity’), but reverted to the name of the previous gate built by Gawhar. The square towers that flank the gate are decorated with heraldic shields carved in stone. A white marble inscription in kufic of the Shi‘a shahada (a very public proclamation of the Fatimid faith) is mounted above the portal. The gate was restored by the Comité at various times, and the latter organization also cleared the area outside the gate in the 1940s, removing the registered sabil of Salim Agha (no. [429]). The SCA undertook an extensive restoration of the Bab al-Nasr in 2001, which is yet to be completed at the time of writing. This has so far resulted in the replacement of many masonry elements. AH
Plan: Creswell 1952, 167 References: Creswell 1919, 53; Creswell 1952, 166–76; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 226; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 67–71; Bierman 1998, 73, 103, 124, 154 n. 7; Sayyid 1998, 152–54, 399–405 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 39; BCCMAA 1889, 60–61; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed), 17, 49, 63–64; BCCMAA 1894, 45; BCCMAA 1899, 69; BCCMAA 1900, 27–28, 65; BCCMAA 1901, 10, 21, 49, 77; BCCMAA 1902, 40, 104, 113, 131; BCCMAA 1905, 55–56, 110; BCCMAA 1906, 32–33, 49, 55; BCCMAA 1907, 71, 93; BCCMAA 1909, 29–30; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 132; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 82; BCCMAA 1915–19, 328, 387; BCCMAA 1930–32, 43; BCCMAA 1936–40, 287, 339; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 52, 83, 86, 126, 151, 208, 290, 320, 340, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 5, 12, 29, 31, 33, 46, 63, 86, 107–11, 194, 278, 325; SCA 2002, 59–60, 323–28
9 Wikala of Qaytbay AH 885 / AD 1480 Of the numerous commercial foundations Sultan Map sheet Qaytbay is known to have established in Cairo, only 18 this example and another near the mosque of alAzhar (see no. 75) survive in a form that indicates their former scale and grandeur. This three-story wikala, located immediately inside the Bab al-Nasr, also bears the name ‘alQutn.’ Originally endowed by Qaytbay for the support of the poor in the city of Medina, it narrowly escaped demolition in 1906. The façade has many fine details, notably a trilobed portal with marble inlay and a carved wooden inscription band running above the shops on the ground floor. The building’s
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interior and eastern façade were restored (incompletely) between 1937 and 1938, and the former is now derelict. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 144–45; Pauty 1936, 30–31; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 242 (no. 12) and 290 (no. 295); Aalund 1980, 39; Sayed 1987a, 210–15; Ibrahim 1984 (fig. 3); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 226; Meinecke 1992, II:420–21 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 94–95 (classification); BCCMAA 1901, 69; BCCMAA 1902, 33–34, 147–49 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1905, 56; BCCMAA 1906, 32 (threatened demolition); BCCMAA 1907, 122–23; BCCMAA 1908, 67, 75–76; BCCMAA 1909, 43–44, 59–60; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 87; BCCMAA 1915–19, 156, 475, 574, 685, 700 709, 740, 763, 773; BCCMAA 1920–24, 23, 94, 97–98, 154, 255, 257–59, 337, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 38, 105; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95, 187, 215; BCCMAA 1930–32, 16, 60; Pauty 1931b, 154 n. 3; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 53, 57, 104, 287, 333; BCCMAA 1941-45, 16, 26, 43–44, 60; SCA 2002, 165–66
10 Mausoleum of Ahmad al-Qasid ca. AH 735 / AD 1335 This mausoleum is a tiny stone cube with a ribMap sheet and-fillet plastered-brick dome, at the base of 18 which is an inscription band. Adjacent to the tomb is a small zawiya, which is entered through a simple trilobed stone portal. The remains of a geometric carved stone window grille can be seen above the door. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 225; Meinecke 1992, II:166 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 65 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 9; BCCMAA 1915–19, 785; BCCMAA 1933–35, 130, 133, 188, 191; BCCMAA 1946–53, 295; SCA 2002, 65–67
11 Wikala of Qawsun Before AH 742 / AD 1341 The first such structure built in Cairo, the wikala of Map sheet the amir Qawsun was used by Palestinian soap and 18 coffee merchants during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and was called ‘the Wikala of Soap.’ Nothing of the building, listed in 1901, survives today except the square-headed doorway, which has a fine blazon on it (a cup, as Qawsun served as cup-bearer to Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad). This gate was saved and moved slightly north from its original emplacement (and raised to current ground level) when the rest of the building was demolished. The area behind the gate is now occupied by modern school buildings. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 97; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 291 (no. 304); Aalund 1980, 39; Hanna 1984, 46; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 225; Meinecke 1992, II:191 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 88 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 107; BCCMAA 1912, 71; BCCMAA 1915–19, 790; BCCMAA 1946–53, 180, 415
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(13) House in the waqf of al-Hatu Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This Ottoman courtyard house, registered in 1896, Map sheet was situated in the Darb al-Rashid according to the 18 1924 Map of Mohammedan Monuments. It was demolished prior to 1932. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 77 (no. 13) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 122 (classification); BCCMAA 1905, 55, 80; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 75
14 Sabil-kuttab of the amir Muhammad AH 1014 / AD 1605 This sabil-kuttab, which appears in the Description Map sheet de l’Égypte under the name ‘al-Guwwaniya,’ seems 18 to have become part of the waqf of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar in the nineteenth century (see also U1 below). The building projects into the street with three façades and has its entrance on the northern side. The southern façade has a blocked window grille, above which is a dedicatory naskhi inscription set within a cartouche in an archaizing style. A similar inscription is to be found on the east façade. The building also preserves other details such as decorative stone strapwork, chamfered corners, and marble columns supporting the loggias of the kuttab. The rafraf, however, is missing.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 245 (no. 12) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 99; BCCMAA 1891, 104; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 150; BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; SCA 2002, 68–70
15 Mosque of al-Hakim AH 380–403 / AD 990–1013 This huge congregational mosque was started by Map sheet the Fatimid khalif al-‘Aziz and completed by his 18 son al-Hakim, who became one of the most notorious despots ever to rule Egypt. When started, the mosque occupied land outside the city walls built by Gawhar al-Siqilli, but it was subsequently included within the perimeter of the second set of walls built by Badr alGamali (see no. 352). The building followed the precedent of the mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun (no. 220), being constructed on the principle of arcades with piers and pointed arches and with a ziyada, or intermediate space, separating the interior of the mosque from the city around it. The mosque was restored after a great earthquake in AD 1302 by Baybars alGashankir, who added the mabkharas to the original Fatimid minaret shafts. Sultan Hasan also restored the mosque in 1359, after which it fell into disuse and served variously as a prison, stables, fortress, and storehouse. During the last years of the nineteenth century it became home to Musée de l’Art Arabe prior to that institution’s relocation to the purpose-
built premises (U46) that it occupies (as the Islamic Museum) to this day. The Comité did much to reveal the true form of the minarets early in the twentieth century. The mosque remained largely ruined until major reconstruction took place in the 1980s directed by the Bohra Isma‘ili sect, which rebuilt all the arcades except for those on the qibla side, covered the sahn in marble, and remodeled the façade. In the course of the reconstruction, the mausoleum of Qurqumas (no. 170), originally situated immediately outside the entrance to the complex, was dismantled and reconstructed in the precincts of the funerary complex of Barsbay (monument no. 121) in the northern cemetery. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:32; Mostafa 1992, 37 References: Creswell 1919, 51–52; Creswell 1952, 65–106; Bloom 1983, 15–36; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 55–59; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 63–66; Meinecke 1992, II:97, 339, 376; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 231; O’Kane 1999, 141–58; Sanders 1999; Tabbaa 2002, 56, 70, 129 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 56, 79–80 (Musée de l’Art Arabe); BCCMAA 1900, 55; BCCMAA 1902, 81–82; BCCMAA 1905, 56–57; BCCMAA 1906, 17–18, 89–90, 98, 101–2, 108–9; BCCMAA 1907, 21, 35, 50, 64–65, 90–91, 124; BCCMAA 1908, 92, 98; BCCMAA 1910, 78, 125–26; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 72; BCCMAA 1911, 16, 43, 55, 74; BCCMAA 1912, 52; BCCMAA 1914, 93, 106, 139; BCCMAA 1915–19, 609; BCCMAA 1920–24, 129; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16, 34, 50; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95, 188; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15–18, 59, 60, 122, 125, 173, 177, 200, 231; Pauty 1931b, 152–53, n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 25, 33, 37, 92, 95, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 268, 270, 285, 288–89, 292, 297, 300, 307, 309, 312, 325, 327, 342; BCCMAA 1941–45, 27, 33–34, 51, 86, 90, 126, 152, 161, 173, 185, 189, 220, 240, 290, 321, 340, 345, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 33–34, 46, 64, 86, 109, 127–30, 197, 241–42, 280, 305, 309, 318, 327, 371, 381; C. Williams 1985, 241; C. Williams 2002, 464; Sanders 2004, passim
16 Sabil-kuttab of Qitas Bey AH 1040 / AD 1630 This sabil, built by the amir Qitas Bey, became part Map sheet of the waqf of the khanqah of Baybars al18 Gashankir (no. 32) across the street; it is often referred to by the latter name in the Bulletins. The sabil is attached to a small wikala (probably the wikalat alTinah), apparently constructed contemporaneously, the remains of which are indicated on the map. The sabil contains a fine salsabil, with a wooden muqarnas hood. Immediately adjacent to the sabil is a stone gateway (reconstructed in 2000) leading to the Darb al-Asfar.
Plan: SCA Archive / CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 247 (no. 19); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 394 (no. 332); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 35; BCCMAA 1908, 36–37; BCCMAA 1909, 108–9, 147–48; BCCMAA 1910, 75 (all under the name Baybars al-Gashankir); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 38; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786
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17 Sabil-kuttab of Udah Basha AH 1084 / AD 1673 This is a typical Ottoman sabil-kuttab, with decoraMap sheet tive stone strapwork and a tiled lunette over the 12 sabil window. It was built by the amir Muhammad Katkhuda and his brother, the amir Dhulfiqar Katkhuda, together with a house adjacent to it, and adjoins a wikala of the same name (no. 19). Pauty (1933a) notes an inscription attributing the construction of the contemporaneous attached house to the amir Dhulfiqar Katkhuda Mustahfizan. To the north of the sabil-kuttab stands the gate into the Harat al-Mabyada (no. 356) with the same date.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 254–55 (no. 40) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, 83–84; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 136; BCCMAA 1914, 128; BCCMAA 1915–19, 490; Pauty 1933b, 76–77 (no. 6 [attached house]); SCA 2002, 171–72
18 Mosque of al-Bakri Before AH 776 / AD 1374 This mosque was built by Sultan Hasan’s chief Map sheet administrator, a Coptic convert to Islam known as 12 Shams al-Din Shakir, or Ibn al-Bakri. The entrance portal appears to be a Comité reconstruction. Little of the original cruciform structure of the mosque survives except the qibla iwan (its ceiling is an Ottoman-period replacement). A fine polychrome marble mihrab with faience and mother-of-pearl inlay, together with a surrounding marble dado, also survives. A tomb chamber lies adjacent to the mosque; its occupant is unvenerated. Plan: After SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 114; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 226; Meinecke 1992, II:202 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 31; BCCMAA 1890, 100–101; BCCMAA 1892, 54; BCCMAA 1898, 30; BCCMAA 1907, 124–25; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 28–29; BCCMAA 1915–19, 114–15, 404, 459, 464, 473, 584; BCCMAA 1925–26, 51; BCCMAA 1927–29, 211; BCCMAA 1941–45, 52
19 Wikala of Dhulfiqar (Udah Basha) AH 1084 / AD 1673 This enormous wikala appears in the waqf of Map sheet Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, which implies that it 11 is a reused fifteenth-century foundation. The façade of the wikala rises three stories above shops; a stone-vaulted dog-legged entrance, surmounted by a large mashrabiya window on the street side, leads into the courtyard. The courtyard itself, surrounded by stone arches, is largely obscured by intrusive structures, but its basic outline is still discernible.
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References: Scharabi 1978, 140–48; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 268 (no. 84); Aalund 1980, 39; Isma‘il and Salih, 1994 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 66 (house); BCCMAA 1905, 73 (house); BCCMAA 1909, 9 (house); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 136; BCCMAA 1915–19, 790; SCA 2002, 175–80
20 Palace al-Musafirkhana AH 1193–1203 / AD 1779–88 This palace, arranged around a courtyard, was built Map sheet by a merchant named Mahmud Muharram, whose 11 mosque (no. 30) is located nearby. The birthplace of Khedive Isma‘il, the building was devastated by a fire in October 1998 that destroyed all of its outstanding mashrabiya windows and wooden ceilings. Prior to this event, the palace had been extensively restored by the Comité, which was initially reluctant to register it owing it its dilapidated condition. Additional features of interest in the building were its large malqaf and elaborate hammam. The palace’s name, ‘alMusafirkhana,’ derives from its use as a state reception hall during the nineteenth century.
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 228 References: Pauty 1933b, 59–60, 62, 77 (no. 7); Pauty 1936, 37; Revault and Maury 1979, III:133–58; Maury et al. 1983, 223–36; King 1984, 99–100, 104; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 220; Jaubert 1995, 202–3; Longeaud 2002, 156, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, 84–85; BCCMAA 1899, 70–71, 106; BCCMAA 1903, 30; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 129; BCCMAA 1915–19, 187–90, 604–5, 608, 613, 617, 681, 683–84, 697, 700, 773; BCCMAA 1920–24, 27, 96, 362; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16, 50; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95; BCCMAA 1930–32, 60, 177, 199, 260; BCCMAA 1933–35, 4, 26, 32, 39, 98, 100, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 71, 341, 343–44, 347, 348–49; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 129, 181, 186, 229, 324; BCCMAA 1946–53, 98, 205
21 Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda AH 1157 / AD 1744 This sabil-kuttab is one of the most famous of the Map sheet constructions of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, an 11 important seventeenth-century bey and a prolific builder. The second-story woodwork screen and balustrade, cantilevered beyond the structural line of the building, and the use of semicircular arches in the façades set an important architectural precedent in Cairo. All the materials employed in its construction are of high quality, and their decorative treatments are varied and elaborate. The interior of the sabil is lined with pseudo-Iznik blue-and-white tiles and, unusually, includes a tiled mihrab. Also visible is an intact water storage area where tanks were filled from the cistern beneath. The building was restored by the German Institute in the 1980s.
Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 94 References: Pauty 1936, 25; Sameh 1946, 28–33; Raymond 1972, 235–51; Raymond 1979a, 271 (no. 85); Meinecke 1980a, 79–86, 93–94; Meinecke 1980b, 53–55; Hanna 1991, 122–23; Behrens-Abouseif
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1992a; Bierman 1995, 7; Raymond 1995, 107–10; Denoix et al. 1999, II:27–28; Raymond 1999, 380–81 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 23, 24, 34, 54–55; BCCMAA 1890, 67, 109; BCCMAA 1896, 157; BCCMAA 1904, 54; BCCMAA 1909, 72; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 4; BCCMAA 1915–19, 818; BCCMAA 1930–32, 49, 132, 269; BCCMAA 1933–35, 140, 143; Meinecke 1980a; Speiser 1982, 373–79; Speiser 1995, 29, 42–43; Speiser 2001, 113–38
22 Mosque of Aydumur al-Bahlawan Before AH 747 /AD 1346 This small mosque is entered through a modern abluMap sheet tions court and has an octagonal minaret and ribbed 12 stone dome with inscription band. The founder served as a provincial governor under Sultan al-Salih Isma‘il (the son of al-Nasir Muhammad). He was subsequently exiled to Syria, where he died and is buried. The entrance and northern façades are decorated, the latter inset with unusual window grilles made of wood. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 102; Kessler 1969, 165; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 219 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 3–4; BCCMAA 1887–88, 23, 45–46; BCCMAA 1889, 82, 132; BCCMAA 1890, 107; BCCMAA 1891, 47–48; BCCMAA 1892, 20, 59, 76; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 64, 71–72, 101–2; BCCMAA 1894, 39, 114; BCCMAA 1896, 19; BCCMAA 1902, 34, 63–64; BCCMAA 1909, 33; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 11; BCCMAA 1915–19, 785; SCA 2002, 141–44
23 Sabil-kuttab of al-Sayyid ‘Ali ibn Hayz‘ AH 1056 / AD 1646 This sabil-kuttab is known also under the names Map sheet Husayn Katkhuda al-Izmirli and Amin Effendi. 12 Although built on a corner, the sabil has a single grille (to the west) for dispensing water; the kuttab has loggias to the west and south. The main portal, with a plain arch and strapwork, is also on the western façade.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 251 (no. 32) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 67, 90, 91; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 77; BCCMAA 1915–19, 785; BCCMAA 1920–24, 334, 360; BCCMAA 1933–35, 329; SCA 2002, 53–54
24 Mosque of Almalik al-Gukandar AH 719 / AD 1319 This is the earliest known example in Cairo of a cruMap sheet ciform madrasa with a covered courtyard. It was 12 constructed by the amir Almalik (‘the Orchard’) alGukandar, a mamluk of al-Zahir Baybars, who went on to serve Qalawun, al-Nasir Muhammad, and five of the latter’s sons. It was al-Nasir who made him a polomaster (gukandar). Almalik also founded an important madrasa in Jerusalem. On the
eastern façade, a bull’s-eye window pierces the building’s original ablaq trilobed portal, which is no longer in use today. A new entrance into the mosque, which contains the tomb of Shaykh Hasan al-‘Adawi (AD 1806–86), was added onto the southern side of the building, presumably after the adjacent buildings to the south were destroyed in the general remodeling of the area around the mosque of al-Husayn. Almalik’s mosque has no minaret and no dome: the founder’s tomb is in a single, tunnelvaulted room at the southeastern corner of the building. The interior is remarkable for its stucco decoration: an inscription band runs along the walls of the sahn and iwans, and medallions ornament the western iwan. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:64 References: Creswell 1919, 95; Hanna 1984, 12; Burgoyne 1987, 308–9 (for biography); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 218; Hamamsy 1992, 50–51; Meinecke 1992, II:124; O’Kane 2000, 159 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 66; BCCMAA 1894, 100–101, 114–15; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 68; BCCMAA 1911, 63; BCCMAA 1913, 72; BCCMAA 1914, 103; BCCMAA 1915–19, 82–84, 492, 518, 519, 541, 556, 569, 613, 630, 641, 642, 695; BCCMAA 1920–24, 210, 259, 298, 359; BCCMAA 1946–53, 294; SCA 2002, 147–48
25 Mosque of Bardbak AH 865 / AD 1460 The mosque and tomb of the amir Taqtabay ibn Map sheet Bardbak are built over the earlier tombs of Fatima (the 12 mother of Husayn) and another female saint. The building is known also as the mosque of Umm alGhulam for this reason. The saints’ tombs are contained in an underground vault to the south of the main portal; a slab with kufic inscription (mounted inside on the qibla wall of the mosque) states that Fatima’s tomb was constructed in AD 1254 by the amir Bilbak al-Khazindar. The mosque is now approached from a modern extension to the west; the main trilobed arched portal to the east, with a pierced muqarnas hood, is shut. The mosque itself is a columnar structure, with arcades of reused columns and capitals arranged around an open sahn. The tomb of the founder is located to the north, on the side street. A sabil-kuttab, now lost, was apparently attached to the complex at its northeastern corner.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:160; SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 141–42; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 219; Meinecke 1992, II:390 Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 80; BCCMAA 1915–19, 149–55, 399, 402, 432, 445, 464, 550, 585, 613, 624, 695, 697; BCCMAA 1920–24, 255, 257, 279, 336, 359; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15; BCCMAA 1930–32, 191, 200, 203, 208–12, 231; SCA 2002, 149–50
26 Mosque of Mughaltay al-Gamali Map sheet
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AH 730 / AD 1329 This mosque was built by the amir Mughaltay (‘Mongol horse’) for the Hanafi school. The only surviving original elements are the northern elevation, built of stone with a fine naskhi inscription
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band, and the brick domed tomb chamber. This contains two stucco inscriptions internally: one around the base of the dome and the other in a medallion at the dome’s apex. The rest of the mosque is modern, with the exception of an Ottoman portal leading to the ablutions court (also situated on the northern side). Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 96; Hanna 1984, 24; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 219; Meinecke 1992, II:154; O’Kane 2000, 168 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 105 (classification of dome only); BCCMAA 1906, 97; BCCMAA 1908, 65; BCCMAA 1910, 77; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 110; BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; SCA 2002, 167–68
27 Sabil of al-Bazdar 1050–51 / AD 1640–41 Raymond (1979) gives the date of construction of Map sheet this anepigraphic sabil as AD 1640–41 (it is listed 12 in the Index of Monuments as ‘mid-seventeenth century’). The building was originally attached to a mosque of the same name, which was demolished in 1892. When the midan between the mosques of al-Azhar and alHusayn was opened up in the 1930s, the Comité moved the sabil in 1935–36 to its present position, at some distance to the north and west of the original emplacement (see also no. 57, the sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad). The building is single story, having lost its kuttab (if it ever had one), and is noteworthy for its carved stone strapwork, with a decorative wood surround to the sabil grille. There are two portals: that to the east is blocked, and was originally in the same plane as the rest of the façade. It was reconstructed at right angles to the main façade because the new site that had been assigned to the building was obviously too small. Since this sabil and its neighbor (no. 57 below) were moved, they have been consistently confused with each other. It is hoped that the identification provided here will prevail. The building was restored in 2003 by the SCA. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Raymond 1979a, 251 (no. 30) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 66 (classification of façade); BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 116; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 39; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1920–24, 334, 362; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; BCCMAA 1927–29, 53–54; BCCMAA 1930–32, 76–77, 86, 121; BCCMAA 1933–35, 60, 175, 329, 393; SCA 2002, 48–50 (as no. 57 sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad)
reconstructed by Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub in 1237, only to be burnt down eleven years later. Subsequent restorations included those of Hasan Katkhuda al-Galfi in the early eighteenth century, ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda later in the same century, and Khedive Isma‘il in the nineteenth century. The immediate environs of the tomb were subjected to major urban clearance in the mid-twentieth century. The existing mosque was designed, on the instructions of khedives ‘Abbas I and Isma‘il, in the neo-Gothic style. It was completed in 1873, with the exception of the new minaret, which was finished in 1878. A further matching extension that enlarged the area of the mosque was built in the 1950s. The only parts of the structure that are listed monuments today are the Ayyubid minaret, with fine original stucco decoration dating to 1237, and the gate directly beneath it, which was formerly called the Bab al-Hasanayn and is today called the Bab al-Akhdar. Portions of this gate may date to the original Fatimid foundation of 1154. The tomb chamber (the work of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda) was the object of a major restoration in 1985 supervised by the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation, during which a replacement dome made of steel was placed over it. For this reason, this section of the building is also shown on the map highlighted as if it were a registered monument, although it is not formally listed. Plan: SCA Archive / CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 76; Sameh 1946, 88–90; Creswell 1952, 271–73; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 66; Meinecke 1992, II:18–19; Egyptian Antiquities Organisation 1985; Karnouk 1981, 126 (for the tabut of al-Husayn, moved to the Islamic Museum); C. Williams 1987 (for the tabut of al-Husayn); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 216–17; Hamamsy 1992, 145–46; Sayyid 1998, 276–80; Leisten 1999, 477 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 4–5; BCCMAA 1896, 176; BCCMAA 1897, 24–25, 151; BCCMAA 1898, 115, 133; BCCMAA 1904, 45; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 77; BCCMAA 1915–19, 788; BCCMAA 1920–24, 358; BCCMAA 1930–32, 71, 191, 200, 232, 261; BCCMAA 1936–40, 297, 299; BCCMAA 1946–53, 142
29 Mosque of Marzuq al-Ahmadi
Gateway and minaret of the mosque of al-Husayn
AH 1043 / AD 1633 This is a simple mosque with arched stone arcades Map sheet around a covered sahn, a stone mihrab, and three 12 tombs arranged on either side of the main prayer space. On the northern side of the building, a corridor runs east to what was once the ablutions area. Protruding from its corner site, the mosque has three façades and two entrances. It is fronted by shops on the principal street façade and has a short, Ottoman-style minaret. Seton-Williams and Stocks (1988) give a more precise date for the building’s foundation—AD 1633— than does the Index of Monuments (‘seventeenth century’) and describe it as a khanqah rather than a mosque.
AH 549–634 / AD 1154–1237 The head of Husayn, the martyred son of ‘Ali, is said Map sheet to be buried here, and the site remains the most 12 important place of pilgrimage in Cairo to this day. The head was first buried in a mashhad on this site by the Fatimid khalif al-Fa‘iz in AD 1154, and the building was
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 219–20; elRashidi 1999, 35, 93 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 78, 115; BCCMAA 1894, 78–79; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 116; BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; SCA 2002, 369–76
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30 Mosque of Mahmud Muharram AH 1207 / AD 1792 Mahmud Muharram was the wealthy merchant who Map sheet built the nearby al-Musafirkhana Palace (no. 20), as 12 well as a takiya (now lost) between the palace and this mosque. The mosque is elevated from street level. There are two approaches; the northern entrance, leading directly to the ablutions hall, is blocked up. The main entrance has a foundation inscription on its lintel and leads to a simple covered prayer hall supported on four columns.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 220–21; Jaubert 1995, 203 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 32; BCCMAA 1884, 4; BCCMAA 1887–88, 2–3; BCCMAA 1903, 53; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 111; BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; BCCMAA 1920–24, 257, 259, 279; BCCMAA 1946–53, 209; SCA 2002, 169–70, 276–82
31 Mausoleum of Qarasunqur AH 700 / AD 1300–1 This mausoleum was built in combination with a Map sheet madrasa by Qarasunqur (‘the Black Falcon’), a mamluk 11 of Sultan Qalawun. The complex was originally known to the Comité as that of Aqsunqur and is not to be confused with the actual foundation of Aqsunqur (no. 123) on the Darb al-Ahmar. Only the tomb and the façade of the madrasa survive. The tomb’s marble- and wood-inlaid mihrab, restored by the Comité, is one of the richest in Cairo. The façade retains many fine stone details, particularly on the window lintels. The entrance to the site, currently occupied by a school, is through a neo-Mamluk portal.
Plan: Creswell 1959, 241 References: Creswell 1919, 86; Pauty 1929, 146; Creswell 1959, 240–42; Rogers 1969, 387–88; Ibrahim 1970–71, 35–37; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 222; Meinecke 1992 II:90, 110 Listing and conservation (under the name [mistaken] ‘dome of Aqsunqur’): BCCMAA 1891, 43–44, 102–3; BCCMAA 1892, 105; BCCMAA 1893, 76; BCCMAA 1897, 65; BCCMAA 1902, 16; BCCMAA 1907, 43, 56; BCCMAA 1908, 37; BCCMAA 1910, 90; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 95–96; BCCMAA 1911, 28; BCCMAA 1912, 67; (as ‘tomb of Aqsunqur,’ from 1914 onward): BCCMAA 1914, 141; BCCMAA 1915–19, 314, 318, 360, 404, 461, 693; BCCMAA 1920–24, 334, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16
32 Khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir AH 706–9 / AD 1306–10 Baybars al-Gashankir (‘the Taster’), who became Map sheet 11 and 18 sultan for a year by temporarily deposing al-Nasir Muhammad, was also responsible for building the tops on the minarets of the nearby mosque of alHakim (no. 15). He was subsequently executed by al-Nasir Muhammad, who proceeded to obliterate his enemy’s name from the inscription band on the façade of the khanqah.
Three elements of the complex are visible from the street: the minaret, portal, and tomb chamber. The minaret rises from a square base with a heavy muqarnas cornice, above which is set a circular second tier and a mabkhara. The recess of the portal is framed, unusually, by a round-headed arch with cushion voussoirs, behind which stands the doorway itself, surmounted by a more conventional combination of semi-dome and muqarnas pendentives. The doors retain their fine metal revetments; the granite threshold is a reused piece of pharaonic spolia. Construction took place in two phases, with the mausoleum being added to the rest of the complex; this may account for the two separate dog-legged corridors leading from the vestibule beyond the portal to the tomb chamber and to the courtyard. The tomb chamber is preceded by another vestibule and is decorated with a marble dado, inlaid marble mihrab, and wooden inscription band. The plan of the khanqah is essentially cruciform, but the lateral iwans are here so compressed as to have minimal architectural impact. Instead, attention is drawn to the qibla and western iwans, which are large pointed-arch vaults. The western iwan has a malqaf incorporated into its rear wall; the qibla wall is undecorated. The flank walls of the sahn are occupied by three levels of accommodation for the Sufi students of the khanqah. The ancillary buildings to the south of the sahn, such as the kitchens, have largely disappeared, but the surviving endowment deed for the complex provides detailed information as to how the khanqah functioned. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:66; Creswell 1959, 251 (for ancillary buildings) References: Creswell 1919, 86–87; Pauty 1929, 146; Creswell 1959, 249–53; J. Williams 1984, 38; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 79–80; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 76–78; Fernandes 1987a, 21–42; Sayed 1987b, 48–49; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 223–24; BehrensAbouseif 1989, 104; Meinecke 1992, II:100, 104; Jaubert 1995, 191; Bierman 1998, 137, 140; Sayyid 1999, 120; Asfour 2000, 235–36; O’Kane 2000, 155–56, 161 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 42–43; BCCMAA 1894, 104–5; BCCMAA 1896, 140; BCCMAA 1897, 82; BCCMAA 1898, 26; BCCMAA 1899, 13–14; BCCMAA 1909, 134; BCCMAA 1892, 83–84 (with plan); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 37; BCCMAA 1912, 25; BCCMAA 1913, 33, 44, 80; BCCMAA 1915–19, 76–78, 314, 318–19, 324, 356, 404, 463, 491, 546, 554, 569, 584, 613, 630, 642, 695, 697, 823; BCCMAA 1920–24, 157, 223, 255, 257, 259, 339, 360, 370; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15; BCCMAA 1933–35, 185; BCCMAA 1946–53, 296
33 Mosque of al-Aqmar AH 519 / AD 1125 Founded by al-Ma’mun al-Bata‘ihi, the vizier of Map sheet 18 and 19 the Fatimid khalif al-Amir, this tiny mosque (nicknamed ‘the Moonlit’), has generated a considerable body of literature, not least because it was the first mosque in Cairo to have dual orientation: i.e., to the street on the outside and to the qibla within. It also has a remarkable decorated façade with a complex iconography related to Isma‘ili Shi‘a doctrine. The open sahn is surrounded by keel-arched arcades, supported by reused marble columns
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or, at the corners, by brick piers. Decoration is in the form of stucco inscription bands, which run along each arch, alternating with medallions. Most of what can be seen of the decoration today is a modern replacement. The building has undergone three major restorations in its history. The first of these was carried out by the amir Yalbugha (a mamluk of Barquq) in AD 1396. The second was executed by the Comité under the direction of Max Herz at the beginning of the twentieth century (including the partial clearance of encroachments from both inside and outside the mosque). The last restoration was that of the Bohra Isma‘ili sect in the 1990s, during which the southern half of the façade was rebuilt and much of the mosque’s decoration replaced. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:63 References: Creswell 1919, 31; Pauty 1929, 136, 142, 153; pl. ii.7 (muqarnas); Pauty 1932, 111 (fig. 13) and 112–13; Lamm 1935–36, 80 (woodwork); Meinecke-Berg 1980, 9–10; C. Williams 1983, 37–48; J. Williams 1984, 39; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 112; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 72–74; Behrens-Abouseif 1992b; Meinecke 1992, II:46, 289; Bierman 1998, 108–16, 134–39; Sayyid 1998, 514–29; Blair 1999, 107; al-Harithy 2001, 90; Tabbaa 2002, 70–71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 112–13; BCCMAA 1894, 42; BCCMAA 1895, 48; BCCMAA 1896, 94–95; BCCMAA 1897, 22, 170–71; BCCMAA 1900, 46, 79–80; BCCMAA 1901, 92, 104; BCCMAA 1902, 127; BCCMAA 1903, 62, 80; BCCMAA 1904, 17, 54, 81; BCCMAA 1905, 36; BCCMAA 1906, 52, 76; BCCMAA 1907, 9–10, 20–21, 78–79; BCCMAA 1908, 96–97; BCCMAA 1909, 61; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 13; BCCMAA 1911, 15, 49, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 81; BCCMAA 1913, 52; BCCMAA 1915–19, 774, 820; BCCMAA 1920–24, 157, 359; BCCMAA 1930–32, 267; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 59, 63; BCCMAA 1941–45, 167, 173, 199; BCCMAA 1946–53, 75–76, 295; Sanders 1999; Ormos 2002, 131; Sanders 2004, 123, 132–33
34 Palace of Bashtak 736–40 / AD 1335–39 This vast multistory stone palace was built by a Map sheet prominent amir of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad on 19 the site of the Fatimid Eastern Palace. The remains of Bashtak’s palace include a mosque, courtyard, stables, and a huge qa‘a on the first floor. This has four iwans, a coffered wooden ceiling, and internal mashrabiya situated at high level, which fronts a singers’ gallery. The mosque has its main entrance on Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah, and is known also by the name ‘al-Figl.’ The building was partially restored by the German Institute in 1982–84 and was awaiting further restoration in 2003. The stone dog-legged passageway to the south of the building has groin vaults and was at one time listed separately (see no. 47). AH
Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 96 References: Creswell 1919, 100; Pauty 1933b, 43; Lézine 1972b, 98–104, 130; Revault and Maury 1977, II:1–20; Meinecke 1980a, 95–98; Maury et al. 1982, 68–73; Meinecke 1992, II:171, 230; Speiser 1994; Jaubert 1995, 192; Speiser 1995, 30–31; Sayyid 1998, 230–32, 249; O’Kane 2000, 157, 159, 161, 164, 165, 167 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 112–14; BCCMAA 1891, 98; BCC-
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MAA 1892, 73; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 16; BCCMAA 1902, 36; BCCMAA 1906, 17, 100; BCCMAA 1907, 7, 63–64; BCCMAA 1908, 93; BCCMAA 1910, 28; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 35; BCCMAA 1911, 65, 75; BCCMAA 1912, 84; BCCMAA 1913, 39, 71; BCCMAA 1915–19, 822; BCCMAA 1920–24, 337, 352; BCCMAA 1930–32, 16, 19, 37, 39, 60, 68, 143, 169, 185, 255, 266; Pauty 1931b, 154 n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 30, 102, 105, 134, 148, 161, 182, 227, 309, 310, 395, 398; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 32, 36, 37, 41–43, 57, 59, 64, 103, 216, 218, 246, 275, 278, 285, 288, 333; BCCMAA 1941–45, 5, 160–61; BCCMAA 1946–53, 285, 290; Speiser 1990; Speiser 1994
35 Madrasa of Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar AH 811/ AD 1408 This is one of a small group of surviving cruciform Map sheet 12 and 19 madrasas in Cairo built to accommodate the four schools of jurisprudence (see nos. 38, 44, 59, and 133). Constructed by the ruthless tax-collector Gamal al-Din (who was strangled in AD 1409 and after whom the Gamaliya district is named), part of the building was designed as a palace for his own use. Sultan Selim Yavuz (r. 1515-20) removed much of the marble decoration from the mosque’s interior after the Ottoman conquest of 1517. Badly damaged by the 1992 earthquake, the building was reopened in 2002 after a lengthy restoration that has been criticized as extreme in its replacement of missing elements.
Plan: Mostafa 1982, fig. 28 References: Creswell 1919, 119; Mostafa 1982, 108–10; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 221; Meinecke 1992, II:306–7; Asfour 2000, 250–51, 253; O’Kane 2000, 258 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 5; BCCMAA 1891, 37–38; BCCMAA 1892, 27–28, 73, 76, 95–96; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 26, 50, 62; BCCMAA 1896, 55–56; BCCMAA 1900, 65; BCCMAA 1903, 28; BCCMAA 1909, 42, 136–37; BCCMAA 1910, 50, 125; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 56; BCCMAA 1911, 15, 49; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 31; BCCMAA 1914, 104; BCCMAA 1915–19, 118–19, 322, 347, 356, 358, 372, 415, 585; BCCMAA 1920–24, 166, 258; Pauty 1931b, 154 n. 3
36 Mausoleum and mosque of Tatar al-Hegaziya AH 749 and 761 / AD 1348 and 1360 This complex was founded by Sultan al-Nasir Map sheet 12 and 19 Muhammad’s eldest daughter, who died of the plague in AD 1360. Her still-venerated tomb has a ribbed stone dome with an inscription band at its base. The building is entered through a portal on the north that has a crenellated muqarnas cornice and inscription plaque above it. At the center of the mosque is an open courtyard with a geometric marble pavement, around which are three iwans; a fine stucco inscription band encircles the courtyard and iwans. Of the two mihrabs, that in the larger, southern iwan is decorated with marble revetments and an inscription band; its counterpart has a simple stucco hood. The ceilings of the iwan are richly painted and framed by high-level inscription bands.
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The original minbar of the foundation is now in the Islamic Museum. The top story of the minaret is missing; the remaining tiers are both inscribed. The restoration of this complex was completed in 1982 by the German Institute. Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 102 References: Creswell 1919, 109; Pauty 1929, 146–47 (muqarnas); ‘Abd alRaziq 1978; Meinecke 1980a, 101–2; Karnouk 1981, 114, 115, 117, 119 and fig. 2, pls. i.1, i.2 (minbar); Gayraud 1986; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 221; Dzierzykray-Rogalsky, Kania, and al-Minabbawi 1987; Meinecke 1992, II:231; Speiser 1995, 28–29; Speiser 1998, 420–23; O’Kane 2000, 167; Speiser 2001, 139–86 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 3–4; BCCMAA 1887–88, 3; BCCMAA 1895, 97, 99–100; BCCMAA 1896, 92, 137, 149; BCCMAA 1900, 85–86; BCCMAA 1901, 98; BCCMAA 1902, 105; BCCMAA 1907, 92; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 157; BCCMAA 1911, 69; BCCMAA 1915–19, 404, 698; BCCMAA 1925–26, 86, 105; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94, 100; BCCMAA 1930–32, 16, 18, 59, 190; BCCMAA 1933–35, 147; Speiser 1982, 365–73; Speiser 1995, 28–29; Speiser 2001, 139–86; SCA 2002, 359–68
37 Remains of the madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars AH 660 / AD 1262 Only a tiny fragment of this once-large madrasa Map sheet survives. The building’s original form has been the 19 subject of much speculation (the hypothesized cruciform plan shown here is taken from Meinecke 1992). The major part of the structure was demolished in 1874 during the construction of the road running up to the Midan Bayt al-Qadi, and the original doors of the madrasa now adorn the French Embassy in Giza. The surviving southwestern corner of the building demonstrates that it was elaborately decorated, with stone carvings of high quality.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:27 References: Creswell 1919, 78; Creswell 1926, 131–43; Creswell 1959, 143–47; Bloom 1982, 46; Meinecke 1992, I:26–29, and II:13; Hampikian 1995a, 48, 51; Sayyid 1998, 229 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 14–15; BCCMAA 1890, 89, 103–4; BCCMAA 1909, 116; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 37; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1930–32, 250; BCCMAA 1936–40, 67–68; BCCMAA 1941–45, 92; BCCMAA 1946–53, 97, 100, 216
38 Mausoleum and madrasa of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub 641 / AD 1243 The madrasa of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub—the first Map sheet madrasa built in Egypt to accommodate all four 19 schools of jurisprudence—is split into two roughly equivalent sections separated by a street that passes directly under the minaret of the complex. These two sections of the madrasa are linked by a common façade, which has the minaret at its approximate center. The tomb was a later addition to this madrasa, built in AD 1249 by Sultan Negm al-Din Ayyub’s wife, Shagarat al-Durr, but it established the much-followed precedent of building a tomb in association with a madrasa. The AH
façade and the minaret of the complex were restored by the Comité at various times. The German Institute restored the tomb and the minaret of the complex in 1993–95. Despite considerable intrusive development, the northern section of the madrasa still retains its western iwan and the base of the eastern iwan. The southern section of the madrasa has been entirely demolished and the land that it occupied is, in 2004, a building site awaiting new construction. An archaeological investigation in 1995 revealed that Creswell’s reconstruction of this part of the complex, which rested on the remains of the Fatimid Eastern Palace, was substantially correct. At the extreme northern end of the complex stands the founder’s tomb. This has a dome of plastered brick, while more costly materials are reserved for the interior. A stucco inscription band runs along the walls; the mihrab preserves the first documented use of glass mosaic decoration in Muslim Egypt; the tabut over the grave, and other wooden elements, are finely carved. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:10 References: Herz 1904a; Creswell 1919, 76; Creswell 1922, 33–36; Pauty 1929, 144, fig. 8, and pl. iii.11 (muqarnas); Creswell 1959, 94–103; Lapidus 1969, 284; Karnouk 1981, 116; J. Williams 1984, 34; BehrensAbouseif 1985, 75–77; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 67–69; BehrensAbouseif 1989, 87–90; Tuscherer 1991, 322, 323; Meinecke 1992, II:118; Hampikian 1995a; Hampikian 1995b; Bierman 1998, 135–37, 138, 142; Sayyid 1998, 229; Denoix et al. 1999 II:20; Hampikian and Cyran 1994; Sayyid 1998, 229–30; Asfour 2000, 246 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 13–16; BCCMAA 1891, 44–45; BCCMAA 1892, 74; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 34–35, 85, 88; BCCMAA 1901, 45, 69; BCCMAA 1902, 32, 62, 116, 135–42 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1903, 53–54, 74; BCCMAA 1904, 16–17, 89–90; BCCMAA 1905, 35, 76; BCCMAA 1906, 73–74, 90–91; BCCMAA 1907, 11–12, 34, 50–51; BCCMAA 1908, 19, 29, 97–98, 104; BCCMAA 1909, 73–74, 86–87, 148; BCCMAA 1910, 76; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 145; BCCMAA 1911, 65, 104; BCCMAA 1914, 58; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1920–24, 278, 334, 360; BCCMAA 1930–32, 250–51, BCCMAA 1933–35, 102–3, 147, 160, 173, 181; BCCMAA 1936–40, 26–27, 97, 109, 268, 270, 272, 274; BCCMAA 1941–45, 5, 165, 171, 185; BCCMAA 1946–53, 81, 135, 144, 242, 309, 330–31, 413, 422; Hampikian 1995a; Hampikian 1995b
(39) Mihrab of the mosque of Badr al-Din al ‘Agami and two epigraphic plaques AH 758 / AD 1357 This mosque, located in the Harat al-Salihiya, was Map sheet known also as the madrasa of Muhammad al19 ‘Abbasi, or of Nasir al-Din Muhammad, the madrasa’s founder. Surviving photographs show that the mosque had a muqarnas portal (a reconstruction, according to the 1906 Bulletin), an inlaid mihrab, and inscribed marble panels of high quality. The mihrab and the epigraphic panels were listed until 1943; the entire mosque was demolished in 1989. It is not clear whether the epigraphic panels were saved.
Plan: None
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References: Creswell 1919, 107; Meinecke 1992, II:226; Sayyid 1998, 294 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 16; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 27; BCCMAA 1913, 72, 144–45 (with photographs); BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1941–45, 238, 251
40 Mosque and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh ‘Ali al-Mutahhar AH 1157 / AD 1744 The mosque was built by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda Map sheet to commemorate Shaykh ‘Ali al-Mutahhar, who is 19 buried here; according to Creswell (1922), the shaykh did not die until AD 1776–77, which implies that his tomb was constructed well in advance. ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda’s mother is purportedly buried next to the shaykh’s domed tomb chamber. The site was previously occupied by the house of Ma’mun al-Bata‘ihi (the builder of the mosque of alAqmar) and subsequently by an Ayyubid madrasa. The historic sections of this building fall into three discrete entities: 1. the entrance, minaret, and sabil-kuttab; 2. the corridor and arched annex; and 3. the main body of the mosque with the tomb chamber. The mosque is approached through a finely decorated trilobed portal, flanked to the north by the sabil-kuttab, which in elevation is identical to ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda’s other, three-sided sabil-kuttab further down the Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 21). The corridor from the street has a stone flanking wall and two open courts, and is preceded by a small arched annex, also used for prayer. The mosque itself has plain arched stone arcades and an inlaid marble mihrab; the tomb chamber is situated to the west of the mosque.
Plan: Courtesy Mohamed Abu’l-Amayem, Architect References: Creswell 1922, 46; Pauty 1936, 25 (sabil); Sameh 1946, 35–39; Raymond 1972, 238 (no. 2); Behrens-Abouseif 1992; Raymond 1995, 102 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 92–93; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 88; BCCMAA 1896, 46; BCCMAA 1898, 122; BCCMAA 1899, 90–91; BCCMAA 1900, 26, 48–49 (sabil exclusive focus of Comité’s interest), 60–61; BCCMAA 1903, 72; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 143; BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; BCCMAA 1936–40, 14, 375, 379; SCA 2002, 132
41 Tomb of Shaykh Sinan Map sheet
19
AH 994 / AD 1585 Now partially concealed by a significant rise in ground level, this tomb of an unknown holy man has two small stone domes supported by finely carved squinches.
Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 80 References: Meinecke 1980a, 79–86; Behrens-Abouseif and Fernandes 1984, 113 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1903, 50 (item e); BCCMAA 1904, 43; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 149; BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; Meinecke 1980a, 79–86
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42 Mosque of Taghribardi Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This raised Ottoman mosque, which has two iwans, Map sheet two portals, a minaret, and a sabil-kuttab, was 19 called ‘al-Mihmandariya’ (implying that it had the function of a madrasa) during the Ottoman period. The southern portal has an unusual crenellated screen in the street immediately outside the entrance. The soffit of the main space contains two original inscribed square wooden panels and is bordered by an inscription; the raised women’s gallery is constructed of wood. The sabil has an inlaid polychrome marble floor and a marble salsabil decorated with chevrons and an inscription. Taghribardi was an important merchant; his eponymous wikala (no. 188) adjoins the mosque to the east. Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 254 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 11–12; BCCMAA 1886, 9–10; BCCMAA 1893, 75; BCCMAA 1894, 45–46, 79; BCCMAA 1903, 54 (kuttab); BCCMAA 1909, 88 (kuttab); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 143; BCCMAA 1915–19, 792; BCCMAA 1930–32, 252–53
43 Complex of Qalawun AH 683 / AD 1284 The complex of Qalawun (which has been closed for Map sheet restoration since 2002) comprises a mausoleum, a 19 madrasa, and a bimaristan. This remarkable group of buildings was begun and completed in only a year by the first of the Bahri Mamluk sultans: al-Mansur Qalawun; it is the earliest of a series of foundations built by successive sultans on the western side of Bayn al-Qasrayn. The mausoleum is remarkable for its size, its unique façade, and the wealth of ornamentation in its interior. It is approached by an imposing corridor that also gives access to the madrasa and used to lead into the bimaristan (now blocked). The mausoleum is preceded by a small courtyard lined with reused antique columns. The dome above the tomb chamber, supported on an octagonal arrangement of columns reminiscent of a baptistery, is a replacement in concrete by the Comité, modeled on the almost contemporaneous dome of the mausoleum of al-Ashraf Khalil (monument no. 275). The adjacent madrasa, noteworthy for the unique navelike design of the qibla iwan, was also heavily restored by the Comité. The remains of the bimaristan, the first hospital built in Cairo, are today accessed by a road to the south of the madrasa. Only peripheral fragments of this once-large structure remain, including a qa‘a built by one of the later directors of the hospital, the amir Aqqush, in AD 1320–30. The center of the site of the bimaristan is now occupied by an eye hospital.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 98 References: Creswell 1919, 81–82; Herz 1913; Herz 1919; Creswell 1922, 39–42; Pauty 1932, 32–33; Pauty 1933c; Lamm 1935–36, 70, 73–74; Creswell 1959, 190–212; Meinecke 1971, 47–80; Lézine 1972b, 93–94, 130; Raymond 1972, 249; Meinecke 1973, 222; Duncan 1980, 74–77; J. Williams 1984, 34–35, 38; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 77–78; Behrens-
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Abouseif 1987, 70–72; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 95–100; Tuchscherer 1991 passim; Meinecke 1992, II:61, 95, 144, 437; Rabbat 1993, 205–7; Blair and Bloom, 1995: 72–77; Jaubert 1995, 190; Fernandes 1997, 111–13; Bierman 1998, 135, 137, 139, 142; Sayyid 1998, 307–11, 313–21; Sayyid 1999, 120, 124–25; Denoix et al. 1999, II:16–17; O’Kane 2000, 162; al-Harithy 2001; Northrup 2001, 119–30 passim; Little 2002, 17–18; Tabbaa 2002, 71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 2; BCCMAA 1889, 86–87, 91, 108; BCCMAA 1890, 47; BCCMAA 1895, 48, 101; BCCMAA 1896, 24, 56; BCCMAA 1897, 152; BCCMAA 1898, 10, 29–30, 44; BCCMAA 1900, 5; BCCMAA 1903, 15; BCCMAA 1904, 42, 59, 90–91; BCCMAA 1905, 54, 94–95; BCCMAA 1906, 6–8, 90, 95, 102; BCCMAA 1907, 8, 35, 90; BCCMAA 1908, 41, 66, 93–94; BCCMAA 1909, 9–10, 25–26, 31–32, 138–39; BCCMAA 1910, 15–16, 141–47 (historical notice on bimaristan); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 89; BCCMAA 1910, 141–47; BCCMAA 1915–19, 55, 318–19, 321, 327, 359, 382, 411, 432, 435, 461, 492, 502, 584–85, 613, 628, 632, 641, 693, 697, 701, 741, 763, 773; BCCMAA 1920–24, 17, 35, 154, 157, 178, 251, 255, 257–58, 276, 289, 359, 362, 367; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16, 105; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95, 100, 106; Pauty 1931b, 152 n. 1; BCCMAA 1941–45, 15, 45, 51, 86, 126, 127, 129, 132, 138–39, 145; BCCMAA 1946–53, 55, 62, 89, 144, 201, 282; Ormos 2002, 137–38; C. Williams 2002, 461–62
44 Complex of al-Nasir Muhammad AH 694–96 / AD 1294–96 Started by Sultan Kitbugha and completed by Sultan Map sheet al-Nasir Muhammad, this is the first cruciform 19 madrasa to be built in Cairo with the express intention of housing all four schools of jurisprudence. The complex is distinguished on the street by its portal, which was taken from the Crusader cathedral at Acre, and its carved stucco minaret. Beneath this, a corridor leads into the sahn, which contains a large stone basin. To the south of the corridor, the qibla iwan of the madrasa preserves a ten-meter-high mihrab with a carved stucco hood. To the north lies the tomb chamber, where two painted wood inscription bands at high level survive. AlNasir’s son, Anuk (d. AD 1340), is buried here, while al-Nasir himself is interred next door in his father Qalawun’s mausoleum (no. 43). The dome over the tomb collapsed in 1870 and has never been replaced. The complex was restored by the German Institute in 1985–86 (the portal was conserved and restored in 1999– 2000), and the remains of an ablutions court in the southwestern corner of the site were first excavated in 1998. Since 2002 the complex has been closed for further restoration by the SCA.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:49 References: Creswell 1919, 85; Creswell 1922, 43; Creswell 1959, 234–40; Rogers 1969, 387–88; King 1984, 116, 118; J. Williams 1984, 38; BehrensAbouseif 1985, 77–78; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 73–74; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 100–1; Meinecke 1992, II:79, 88; Blair and Bloom 1995, 77; Jaubert 1995, 191; Speiser 1998, 423–26; Denoix et al. 1999, II:21; O’Kane 2000, 157; Mayer, Nogara, and Speiser, 2001; Little 2002, 15–18 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 45–46; BCCMAA 1904, 91; BCCMAA 1905, 34, 95–96; BCCMAA 1907, 34–35; BCCMAA 1908, 93; BCCMAA 1909, 25–26, 75; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 134; BCCMAA 1915–19, 832; BCCMAA 1920–24, 278, 340; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16, 17, 22; BCCMAA 1941–45, 172; BCCMAA 1946–53, 53, 203, 345; Mayer, Nogara, and Speiser, 2001, 232–38; SCA 2002, 155–58, 329–36
45 Mosque of Mithqal AH 763 / AD 1361 Built by the chief eunuch to sultans Muhammad II Map sheet and Sha’ban II, this raised cruciform mosque is 19 built above a passage that connects two alleys running on either side. It has a recessed ablaq façade and four iwans with upper floors, from which mashrabiya windows give onto the northern and southern sides of the sahn. There is a marble dado and mihrab in the qibla iwan and an inlaid marble floor in the sahn. The building was listed by the Comité in 1887 and restored by the German Institute in the 1970s.
Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 44 References: Creswell 1919, 110; Meinecke 1980a; Meinecke 1992 II:234–35; Speiser 1995, 37; Sayyid 1998, 230 and n. 3; O’Kane 2000, 167–68 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887, 30; BCCMAA 1894, 92, 115; BCCMAA 1910, 72; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 119; BCCMAA 1913, 31, 83, 110; BCCMAA 1914, 2, 16, 106, 130; BCCMAA 1915–19, 107, 404, 459, 464, 473, 703, 709, 773; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95, 169; Pauty 1931b, 154 n. 2; Meinecke 1980a; Meinecke 1980b, 52; SCA 2002, 164, 349–58
46 Façade of the mosque of ‘Abd al-Latif al-Qarafi Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD The whole of this tiny mosque appears to be origMap sheet inal, although only the façade with its trilobed 19 stone entrance portal and muqarnas hood is listed. The foundation is Ottoman, but the style of the building is Mamluk. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 11 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 30, 34, 51; BCCMAA 1901, 105; BCCMAA 1909, 28–29; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 3; BCCMAA 1913, 69; BCCMAA 1915–19, 785
(47) Bab Qadi ‘Askar AH 735 / AD 1334 The Bab Qadi ‘Askar is the stone arched entrance Map sheet and dog-legged vaulted passageway that was the 19 original entrance to the palace of Bashtak (no. 34). Ravaisse (1887) suggested that this gate was ‘the Soldiers’ Gate’ of the Eastern Palace of Mu‘izz li-Din Allah, built in AD 969. It has been deregistered as a separate monument and included as part of the listing for Bashtak’s palace.
Plan: Meinecke 1990, 96 References: Ravaisse 1887, 429, 469–71; Creswell 1919, 49; Meinecke 1992, II:171; Sayyid 1998, 233 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 23–24; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 27; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1930–32, 249–50; BCCMAA 1936–40, 339
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48 Mosque of Muhib al-Din Abu’l Tayyib Before AH 934 / AD 1527–28 This is a plain early Ottoman mosque, entered Map sheet through a trilobed portal, with four iwans around a 19 sahn. The qibla wall has been recently restored in imitation-Mamluk style, incorporating pieces of original stone carving and porphyry. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 11 (as no. 18); Behrens-Abouseif 1995, 123–32; elRashidi 1999, 13, 56–58; O’Kane 2000, 157–58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 68–69; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 124; BCCMAA 1915–19, 173–75; BCCMAA 1946–53, 33, 145
49 Mosque of Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir AH 884 / AD 1479 Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir (AD 1428–1488), the chancelMap sheet lor of Sultan Qaytbay, also established a madrasa 18 (still extant) in Jerusalem. His cruciform-plan madrasa in Cairo is raised up from street level, with two portals, a sabil-kuttab, and minaret. The sahn has a polychrome inlaid-marble floor and is covered with a fine painted ceiling and shukhshaykha. The many beautiful decorative features include wood- and marble-work signed by the original craftsmen. The wooden minbar, which bears the penbox blazon of Abu Bakr, is also an original feature.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:162 References: Creswell 1919, 144; Devonshire 1935–40, 25–31; Burgoyne 1987, 579–80 (for biography); Meinecke 1992, II:417; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 234 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882 (2nd ed.), 32; BCCMAA 1890, 45; BCCMAA 1891, 92–95; BCCMAA 1892, 44; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 79–80; BCCMAA 1894, 93, 105; BCCMAA 1896, 93; BCCMAA 1897, 58–59, 113, 153, appendix v–vii; BCCMAA 1898, 24; BCCMAA 1900, 8; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 4–5; BCCMAA 1914, 23, 139, 157, 163; BCCMAA 1915–19, 321, 584, 818; BCCMAA 1920–24, 147; BCCMAA 1946–53, 33, 58–59, 62, 75–76, 143, 200, 282
50 Qa‘a of Muhib al-Din al-Muwaqqi AH 751 / AD 1350 This qa‘a, which is known also as the qa‘a of Baybars Map sheet and qa‘a of ‘Uthman Katkhuda because of the lat19 ter’s occupancy of the building in the eighteenth century, is all that remains of a large Mamluk palace that was built on this site in AD 1350. The room is noteworthy for its great height and the presence of a malqaf on its northern side. It was restored by the Comité in 1911.
Plan: Maury et al. 1982, 102 References: Creswell 1919, 78; Pauty 1933b, 44–45, 77 (no. 8); ‘Abd alWahab 1965, 96; Fathy 1969, 138–39, 144–45; Lézine 1972b, 123–27, 130; Revault and Maury 1977, 21–30; Maury et al. 1982, 102–4; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 248
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA, 1891, 44, 48; BCCMAA 1892, 44; BCCMAA 1894, 48, 72–73, 150–51; BCCMAA 1895, 28–29; BCCMAA 1899, 53–54; BCCMAA 1904, 43–44; BCCMAA 1905, 12, 35, 79–80; BCCMAA 1906, 19–20; BCCMAA 1908, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 138; BCCMAA 1913, 140–43; BCCMAA 1915–19, 88–89 n. 2; BCCMAA 1941–45, 287; BCCMAA 1946–53, 296
51 Maq‘ad of Mamay al-Sa‘ifi AH 901 / AD 1496 This structure, today known as the Bayt al-Qadi, Map sheet was built by one of Sultan Qaytbay’s amirs and 19 was probably part of a large palace with a courtyard at its center. The capitals of the columns that support the maq‘ad are among the rare, purpose-made (rather than reused) pharaonic-style elements to be found in the Islamic architecture of Cairo. The maq‘ad, which has a fine decorated ceiling and inscription band, is currently in use as a mosque.
Plan: Maury et al. 1982, 126. The plan of the upper floor is shown here. References: Creswell 1919, 150; Pauty 1933b, 47–48, 77 (no. 10); Revault and Maury 1975, 11–20; Maury et al. 1982, 128; Ibrahim 1984, 59 n. 51; Meinecke 1992, II:439–40; Jaubert 1995, 196 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 76–77 (classification); BCCMAA 1901, 49, 101–102; BCCMAA 1902, 7, 32–33, 45–46, 121, 149–152 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1904, 92; BCCMAA 1905, 96; BCCMAA 1906, 16–17; BCCMAA 1907, 92–93, 102; BCCMAA 1908, 18, 41, 67, 94; BCCMAA 1909, 22, 75, 110; BCCMAA 1910, 28; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 112; BCCMAA 1911, 43; BCCMAA 1915–19, 664; BCCMAA 1927–29, 50; BCCMAA 1933–35, 148, 157, 160, 171, 179, 182; BCCMAA 1936–40, 144, 147, 326, 336, 339; BCCMAA 1941–45, 15
52 Sabil-kuttab of Khusraw Pasha AH 942 / AD 1535 This sabil-kuttab was built by an Ottoman governor Map sheet of Egypt (r. AD 1534–36) in direct stylistic and for19 mal imitation of its Mamluk predecessors. The building was completely restored in 1994 by the German Institute.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 321 References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 249; Bates 1991, 148; Tuscherer 1991, 337–38; Denoix et al. 1999, II:18–19 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 44–45; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 50; BCCMAA 1894, 98; BCCMAA 1895, 70; BCCMAA 1896, 22–23, 121; BCCMAA 1897, 131; BCCMAA 1899, 41; BCCMAA 1902, 75, 142–44 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1909, 92; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 103; BCCMAA 1911, 16, 49; BCCMAA 1915–19, 788; BCCMAA 1936–40, 10, 68, 97, 102, 173, 178; BCCMAA 1941–45, 115, 178
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53 Bab al-Badistan al-Ghuri AH 917 / AD 1511 The badistan, a commercial structure housing shops Map sheet with apartments above them to either side of a 19 covered street, was depicted in the nineteenth century by the English artist J.F. Lewis, when it was still substantially intact. Today, the Sikkat al-Badistan forms a major thoroughfare of the Khan al-Khalili. The gate, at the western extremity of the building, is a large trilobed portal inlaid with marble. It displays an inscription band and the cartouches of Sultan al-Ghuri.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Mantran 1972, 229; Meinecke 1992, II:466–67; Denoix et al. 1999, II:35–38 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 5–6; BCCMAA 1886, 12–13; BCCMAA 1897, 96; BCCMAA 1903, 63; BCCMAA 1904, 36, 67; BCCMAA 1905, 35; BCCMAA 1907, 33–34; BCCMAA 1908, 29, 134; BCCMAA 1909, 94; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 100; BCCMAA 1912, 73, 86; BCCMAA 1913, 39, 72; BCCMAA 1915–19, 826; Pauty 1931b, 155 n. 1; BCCMAA 1936–40, 375, 380; BCCMAA 1941–45, 51, 86, 126, 172; BCCMAA 1946–53, 332
54 Façade of the wikala of al-Ghuri (al-Qutn) 917 / AD 1511 Despite its designation in the Index of Monuments Map sheet as an emporium for cotton, Raymond and Wiet 12 (1979) identify this wikala as the Khan al-Nahhas, catering at different times to coppersmiths, leather-goods merchants, and dried-fruit sellers. The portal leading to the wikala is in good condition, probably because of heavy restoration by the Comité, but little of the building’s original internal structure survives. AH
8; BCCMAA 1906, 96; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 100; BCCMAA 1912, 73, 86; BCCMAA 1913, 39, 72; BCCMAA 1915–19, 826; Pauty 1931b, 155 n. 2; BCCMAA 1936–40, 69, 375, 380; BCCMAA 1946–53, 332
57 Sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi) AH 1068 / AD 1657 The common name of this sabil-kuttab is alMap sheet Maghlawi, while the founder is referred to in the 12 Index of Monuments as Isma‘il al-Manawi. A marble panel with a foundation inscription and date is located above the sabil grille on the western façade, however, which names the founder as Isma‘il ibn Ahmad. This name is accordingly used here. The sabil-kuttab was moved in its entirety in 1935–36 (like the sabil of al-Bazdar [no. 27]) from its original position, where the Midan al-Husayn is today. The sabil has a fine painted wooden ceiling and the whole structure has been recently restored by the SCA (2003). The building is still confused with its neighbor (al-Bazdar), not only in the Map of Mohammedan Monuments where the labelings are unclear, but also on the ground (see SCA 2002). This confusion is evident in the fact that the building also bears a metal plaque identifying it as number 27. The inscription, however, is clear enough to permit a final attribution and identification to be made.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 253 (no. 38) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1905, 77; BCCMAA 1927–29, 53–54; BCCMAA 1930–32, 76–77, 86, 121; BCCMAA 1933–35, 60, 175, 329, 393; SCA 2002, 51–52 (as sabil of al-Bazdar)
58 Façade of the zawiya of Fatima Umm Khawand
Plan: Scharabi 1978, 150 References: Scharabi 1978, 148–50, 160; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 285–86 (no. 253); Meinecke 1992, II:466–67; Denoix et al. 1999, II:35–38 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 5–6; BCCMAA 1886, 12–13; BCCMAA 1897, 96; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 100; BCCMAA 1915–19, 826; BCCMAA 1936–40, 69; BCCMAA 1941–45, 51, 86, 126, 172
Ninth century AH / Fifteenth century AD This small stone façade, consisting of a portal Map sheet flanked by three shops to the south, was attributed 25 by the Comité to a wife of Sultan Qaytbay. The façade was listed in 1899. The zawiya that lies behind is a modern construction.
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Plan: None References: Creswell 1919, 138; Meinecke 1992, II:375 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 44 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 54; BCCMAA 1915–19, 805
Bab al-Ghuri AH 917 / AD 1511 This gate served as a cross-axis leading to the Map sheet badistan (no. 53) and the wikala al-Qutn (no. 54). It 12 is a large trilobed stone structure, with inlaid marble panels, cartouches, and an inscription band. The gate was restored by Comité in 1937; it remains an important visual focus in the surrounding Khan al-Khalili.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Meinecke 1992, II:466–67; Denoix et al. 1999, II:35–38 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 5–6; BCCMAA 1886, 12–13; BCCMAA 1897, 96; BCCMAA 1899, 8; BCCMAA 1901, 90; BCCMAA 1902,
59 Mausoleum of al-Sha‘rani ca. AH 975 / AD 1567 ‘Abd al-Wahhab al-Sha‘rani was a popular Sufi Map sheet shaykh, with his own brotherhood, who sought to 26 unify the four schools of Islamic law. The mausoleum was added to a large complex, including a takiya, mosque, and madrasa, that had been built for alSha‘rani during his lifetime by Qadi ‘Abd al-Qadir (using illegal
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funds); of these buildings only the mausoleum (listed in 1898) survives. The mausoleum’s interior is decorated with polychrome arabesque painting, which also covers the vault of the dome. To the south of the mausoleum is a fine Ottoman stone house-façade, with another tomb (probably that of alSha‘rani’s son) behind it. The mausoleum is accessed through a neo-Mamluk mosque to the north built in 1907, the plan of which is included here for reference. Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 285; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 98–99, 150–51 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 127 (classification); BCCMAA 1903, 48; BCCMAA 1904, 34; BCCMAA 1905, 11; BCCMAA 1910, 90; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 44; BCCMAA 1915–19, 59
60 Mosque of Qadi ‘Abd al-Basit AH 823 / AD 1420 ‘Abd al-Basit was the controller of the armies under Map sheet Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh; his influence declined, 25 and 25 however, with the accession of Sultan Barsbay, and Sultan Barquq had him executed in AD 1450. Before this, he had endowed not only a fine mosque in Cairo but also madrasas in Jerusalem, Mecca, and Damascus. His foundation in Cairo takes the form of a cruciform madrasa with two stone portals, a minaret, and a sabil-kuttab. The decorative stone and wood elements throughout are of high quality. It was restored at various times by the Comité, but most of the building is orginal. In 2003 the mosque was still undergoing a lengthy conservation. Immediately opposite the eastern façade of the mosque stood the monumental entrace to the nineteenth-century palace of the al-Bakri family, seen in a photograph published by Pauty (1933a, pl. viib). This was demolished in the 1950s and replaced with modern school buildings.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:157; SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 122; Burgoyne 1987, 519–20 (for biography); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 284; Meinecke 1992, II:326; Asfour 2000, 253 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 65–66; BCCMAA 1907, 98–99; BCCMAA 1909, 25, 105; BCCMAA 1910, 26–27; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 2; BCCMAA 1911, 27, 44, 50; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 31; BCCMAA 1914, 116; BCCMAA 1915–19, 129–31, 402, 432, 446, 464, 488, 585, 817; BCCMAA 1920–24, 54, 98; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; BCCMAA 1933–35, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 58, 62, 103, 212, 213, 215–17, 375, 380; BCCMAA 1946–53, 346; SCA 2002, 120–22
61 Ribat of the wife of Sultan Inal ca. AH 860 / AD 1456 Known also as the ribat of Khawand Zaynab, this Map sheet building served as an asylum for indigents. One of 25 only a few buildings in Cairo with the designation ‘ribat’ (see also nos. 141 and 245), it takes the form of a courtyard with two iwans and minor rooms arranged around it (a much smaller version of the khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir [no. 32]). It was originally entered through a
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small, decorated trilobed stone portal, which is today blocked by a substantial rise in ground level. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:159 References: Creswell 1919, 135; Meinecke 1992, II:386; O’Kane 2000, 170 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 40, 139; BCCMAA 1900, 6–7; BCCMAA 1901, 46; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 81; BCCMAA 1914, 117, 139; BCCMAA 1915–19, 788; BCCMAA 1920–24, 178, 257; BCCMAA 1930–32, 62, 75; BCCMAA 1941–45, 151; BCCMAA 1946–53, 210, 309, 331
62 Hawd and sabil of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab AH 1188 / AD 1774 These buildings, which formed part of the developMap sheet ment of Abu’l Dhahab on this site that was centered 13 on his mosque (no. 98), were built-over ca. 1900 with a three-story building (see U27), one access to which is through the hawd structure itself. Comité wooden screens to the front of the watering trough meet at the central marble column of the façade. The timber ceiling dates to the late nineteenth- / early twentieth-century construction. The sabil has fine bronze grilles that match those on the founder’s mosque.
Plan: Courtesy Seif al-Rashidi References: Crecelius 1978–79; Raymond 1979a, 283 (no. 116) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 51; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 123; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1920–24, 166, 257, 258; Pauty 1931b, 161 n. 1
63 Qa‘a and maq‘ad in the waqf al-Sha‘rani AH 1138 / AD 1725 This house once belonged to the waqf of the comMap sheet plex of al-Sha‘rani (no. 59). The house had a 26 maq‘ad with three arches and a painted ceiling; the qa‘a was noteworthy for its water basin and marble dado. Its position is incorrectly marked on the 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments. Little remains of the structure of this building except the portal adjacent to the maq‘ad and the bases of the columns to the maq‘ad. The qa‘a behind is still roofed; it is currently used as a stable.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933b, 62, 76 (no. 5); Pauty 1936, 37 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 87–88 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 45; BCCMAA 1915–19, 502, 15; BCCMAA 1930–32, 168, 142
64 Wikalat al-Ghuri AH 909–10 / AD 1504–5 This is one constituent of a vast complex, of which Map sheet this wikala, a house (no. 65), a maq‘ad (no. 66), a 20 mausoleum and sabil-kuttab (no. 67), and a mosque (no. 189) survive, built by the aesthete alGhuri, an unwilling sultan who was the penultimate Mamluk
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ruler of Egypt. He died on campaign in Syria against the Ottomans, who were soon to control Egypt. Al-Ghuri’s buildings represent, in scale and decorative ambition, the last manifestation of traditional Mamluk architecture in Cairo. This three-story wikala gives an excellent impression of the vertical scale of such buildings. An imposing groin-vaulted entrance leads to a large courtyard surrounded by arched arcades on the ground and first floors with mashrabiya windows above. The building’s restored façade is similarly adorned with mashrabiya. Almost completely rebuilt in the 1930s by the Comité, the wikala is currently used as a craft workshop. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:199 References: Creswell 1919, 156; Pauty 1936, 30–31; Ibrahim 1978, 27–28; Scharabi 1978, 160; Aalund 1980, 40; Maury et al. 1982, 132–42; Meinecke 1992, II:455; Blair and Bloom 1995, 94; Garcin 1997, 78–79 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 69; BCCMAA 1896, 153–54; BCCMAA 1897, 159–60; BCCMAA 1902, 35; BCCMAA 1903, 22–23; BCCMAA 1904, 16; BCCMAA 1907, 49; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 64; BCCMAA 1915–19, 492, 782; BCCMAA 1920–24, 352; BCCMAA 1925–26, 32; Pauty 1931b, 160 n. 2; BCCMAA 1933–35, 149, 161, 174, 182; BCCMAA 1936–40, 32, 36, 57, 266, 294, 296–98, 327, 333; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 29, 43, 60, 87, 127, 129, 152, 165, 273, 290, 320, 340, 345, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 33, 46, 53–54, 64, 86, 98, 103, 105, 112, 115, 184, 188–89, 191, 194, 254, 278, 309, 325, 371–72, 381, 413, 419–20, 422; SCA 2002, 105–12
65 House in the waqf of Sa‘id Pasha AH 909–10 / AD 1504–5 This house forms part of the major complex of alMap sheet Ghuri, which extended from his mosque (no. 189) 20 to his wikala (no. 64). The street façade was heavily restored in the twentieth century by the Comité, which added new mashrabiya to it, but the building is currently derelict.
Plan: SCA Archive (partial) References: Pauty 1933b, 78 (no. 17) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 31–32; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 144; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783; BCCMAA 1920–24, 288; BCCMAA 1927–29, 216; BCCMAA 1930–32, 12; Pauty 1931b, 160 n. 1; BCCMAA 1936–40, 68, 103, 212, 214; BCCMAA 1946–53, 182, 188–89
66 Maq‘ad of al-Ghuri 909–10 / AD 1504–5 This triple-arched maq‘ad is the only surviving part Map sheet of a palace that al-Ghuri built behind his mau20 soleum (no. 67), unless the house in the waqf of Sa‘id Pasha to the north (no. 65) is considered to be a part of this construction. The courtyard in front of it was used as a burial ground during the late Mamluk period. AH
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:167 References: Creswell 1919, 152; Pauty 1933b, 79 (no. 18); Mehrez 1972; Revault and Maury 1979, 31–46; Ibrahim 1984, 59 n. 51; Meinecke 1992, II:452; O’Kane 2000, 170
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 81; BCCMAA 1902, 121; BCCMAA 1909, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 66; BCCMAA 1912, 94; BCCMAA 1915–19, 417, 782; Pauty 1931b, 159–60 n. 2
67 Mausoleum and sabil-kuttab of al-Ghuri AH 909–10 / AD 1504–5 A fine ablaq portal opposite that of the mosque (no. Map sheet 189) in this portion of the complex built by al20 Ghuri (see nos. 64–66) leads to a vestibule, adjacent to which lie the tomb chamber and a separate prayer space. The former has lost its dome (the original was tiled) and is now covered with a flat roof. The tomb chamber’s interior was heavily restored by the Comité; its wall surfaces are entirely covered in arabesque carving, with an inscription band situated high on the wall. The adjacent prayer space has an ornate wooden ceiling with a skylight and a marble dado with an inlaid marble mihrab. These elements as well have been heavily restored. Projecting into the street is an extremely large three-sided sabil-kuttab, which still preserves a spectacular salsabil in the sabil room. The sabil-kuttab, as well as other rooms in the building, is used by the SCA as an inspectorate. The street between this building and al-Ghuri’s madrasa was roofed during the Ottoman period (if not earlier), and the stone emplacements for this timber structure are still in position on the western façade at high level.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:167 References: Creswell 1919, 152; Kessler 1969, 262–63; Mehrez 1972; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 149–52; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinecke 1992, II:451–52; Asfour 2000, 247–48 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.) 29, 32, 49–50; BCCMAA 1889, 67, 108, 118; BCCMAA 1889, 67, 108, 118; BCCMAA 1890, 109; BCCMAA 1891, 56; BCCMAA 1892 (2nd ed.), 75 (classification of tomb), 114; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 68, 76–77; BCCMAA 1896, 43; BCCMAA 1898, 116, 122; BCCMAA 1899, 90–91; BCCMAA 1900, 26, 60–61, 100; BCCMAA 1905, 80; BCCMAA 1906, 102–3; BCCMAA 1907, 90; BCCMAA 1909, 3, 93–94; BCCMAA 1910, 91; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 63; BCCMAA 1912, 54; BCCMAA 1913, 10, 68, 132; BCCMAA 1914, 107, 139; BCCMAA 1915–19, 503, 782; BCCMAA 1920–24, 18, 23, 43, 96; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; Pauty 1931b, 159–60 n. 2; BCCMAA 1933–35, 103, 107, 125–26, 158, 172, 180, 187–88, 238, 242, 274–75, 283–85, 317–18; BCCMAA 1936–40, 8, 336, 338; BCCMAA 1946–53, 146, 346; el-Zaher and el-Ela 1995; SCA 2002, 72–74, 412–16 (cistern)
68 Tomb of Muhammad al-Anwar AH 1195 / AD 1780 Although the present structure of this tomb is Map sheet Ottoman, the original foundation is supposedly 24 that of a Fatimid shaykh who died in AD 1020. The tomb is set back from the street and is approached by a green-and-white painted trilobed stone portal (dated 1780) that leads to a small courtyard with the mausoleum at its end. The interior of the plastered-brick dome is painted with arabesques; two inscriptions encircle the base and the
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apex of the dome. The mihrab is built into a corner of the tomb chamber on the diagonal, an orientation shared by the adjacent modern mosque.
72 House of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi
Plan: CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 59; Behrens-Abouseif 1983, 7; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 336; Sayyid 1998, 361 Listing and Conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 16 (minaret and door); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 20; BCCMAA 1915–19, 34, 800; BCCMAA 1946–53, 209
AH 1044 / AD 1634 Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi, the gold merchant who Map sheet built this house, was also the owner of a wikala (no. 20 411). The building stands on a wedge-shaped plot and is organized around a courtyard with a fine maq‘ad and qa‘a at first-floor level.
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Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 146 References: Pauty 1933b, 56–57, 79 (no. 20); Pauty 1936, 37; Fathy 1969, 143–45; Lézine 1972a, 1–16; Maury et al. 1983, 142–50; Revault 1989, 43–59; Jaubert 1995, 198–99 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 114–15; BCCMAA 1896, 163, 179; BCCMAA 1897, 53–54, 60, 91–92; BCCMAA 1898, 30–31, 116; BCCMAA 1899, 8, 122; BCCMAA 1901, 75; BCCMAA 1903, 73; BCCMAA 1906, 4, 53, 95; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 57; BCCMAA 1914, 139; BCCMAA 1915–19, 769; BCCMAA 1927–29, 50; BCCMAA 1941–45, 294–95; BCCMAA 1946–53, 14, 53, 177, 187, 208, 237, 284
Sabil-kuttab of Zayn al-Abidin Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This sabil-kuttab has a decoratively carved stone Map sheet façade with elaborate strapwork, geometric motifs, 13 and an exceptionally tall trilobed muqarnas portal. The sabil, now in use as a school, has a painted wood ceiling and salsabil hood. The large cistern beneath the sabil has recently been documented (SCA 2002). Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 261 (no. 57) Conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 7, 33–34; BCCMAA 1890, 36; BCCMAA 1901, 84; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 168; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1925–26, 38; SCA 2002, 45–46, 409–12
70 Sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Bey al-Kharbutli AH 1047 / AD 1637 This typical Ottoman sabil-kuttab with two matchMap sheet ing façades is attached to a wikala, whose ground 13 and 20 floor and corbels survive. The interior of the sabil has a painted wood ceiling and a well-preserved salsabil emplacement with a carved marble slab and muqarnas hood.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 249 (no. 26) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 67, 104; BCCMAA 1909, 76; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 150; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783; BCCMAA 1941–45, 363; SCA 2002, 43–44
71 Sabil-kuttab of Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui AH 1042 / AD 1632 This is an Ottoman period sabil-kuttab attached to Map sheet a wikala; the latter was previously listed together 13 with the sabil-kuttab but is now deregistered. The interior of the sabil has a painted wood ceiling and the exterior is ornamented with stone-carved strapwork.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 248 (no. 22) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 8 (classification), 102–3; BCCMAA 1902, 7; BCCMAA 1903, 70; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 100; BCCMAA 1913, 33; BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1946–53, 146
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73 Sabil-kuttab of Abu’l Iqbal ‘Arifin Bey AH 1125 / AD 1713 This elaborately decorated sabil has carved stone Map sheet bosses, two marble inscription panels, tiled 13 lunettes, and strapwork carving. The portal has a square hood with a distinctive design of pierced muqarnas. Inside the sabil, a rare intact example of a room for the water-works of such a complex survives, complete with marble tanks and an opening to the cistern below. The building was restored by the Comité in 1911.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 263 (no. 63) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 57–58; BCCMAA 1909, 49; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 6; BCCMAA 1911, 68; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1946–53, 238; SCA 2002, 42
74 Hawd of Qaytbay Before AH 901 / AD 1496 This watering trough was built in continuation of Map sheet Sultan Qaytbay’s development of this street (see 13 nos. 75 and 76 below). The interior is now about one meter below street level. The rafraf and wooden infill doors and panels are Comité creations. The building was restored in 1998 by the Centre for Conservation and Preservation of Islamic Architectural Heritage. Plan: Courtesy Saleh Lamei, Centre for Conservation and Preservation of Islamic Architectural Heritage References: Meinecke 1992, II:412–13 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 117; BCCMAA 1894, 40; BCCMAA 1895, 96–97; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 88; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; Pauty 1931b, 160–61 n. 3; BCCMAA 1936–40, 294, 296, 297, 299; BCCMAA 1946–53, 146
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75 Wikala of Qaytbay AH 882 / AD 1477 This wikala bears comparison with Sultan Map sheet Qaytbay’s other surviving wikala at the Bab al13 Nasr (no. 9). It has a fine stone façade with carved panels and medallions, as well as a trilobed entry portal with muqarnas and an inscription band. The building is still inhabited on its first floor. Only the corbels of the building’s original second floor survive; the interior courtyard has vanished under later constructions, leaving only the northern perimeter visible. A sabil-kuttab standing at its western end is separately listed (no. 76).
and Stocks 1988, 265; Jaubert 1995, 194; Garcin 1997, 68–69, 79; O’Kane 2000, 157–58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed), 44; BCCMAA 1901, 7; BCCMAA 1906, 91; BCCMAA 1907, 92; BCCMAA 1909, 42–43; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 168; BCCMAA 1911, 28; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1927–29, 167; BCCMAA 1930–32, 20, 145, 163, 262; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39, 59, 62, 141, 144, 148, 158, 160, 172, 180, 182, 227; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 110, 114, 266; BCCMAA 1941–45, 67, 71, 81, 108, 127, 139, 348; BCCMAA 1946–53, 93, 95, 167, 170, 181, 296; BIFAO 84 (1984): 349
96 Madrasat al-Ghanamiya
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 262 References: Creswell 1919, 142; Higashi 1974; Scharabi 1978, 159; Aalund 1980, 40; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 264; Meinecke 1992, II:412–13 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 43–44, 57; BCCMAA 1889, 147–48; BCCMAA 1894, 95–96; BCCMAA 1896, 161, 172; BCCMAA 1910, 51; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 86; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 217; Pauty 1931b, 160–61 n. 3; BCCMAA 1946–53, 180, 188–89, 237; SCA 2002, 86–90
AH 774 / AD 1372 This room was once a qa‘a of a palace constructed Map sheet in AD 1372 by the vizier Shakir ibn Ghanam. It was 13 subsequently converted into a madrasa with the addition of a minaret (see U26) externally and two mihrabs internally. A beautiful wooden muqarnas salsabil hood survives at the northern end of the qa‘a. The qa‘a stands in isolation today, its surrounding context demolished with the building of the al-Azhar University campus in the 1950s. It was restored by the SCA in 1997–2000.
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Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 113–14; Creswell 1922, 48; Pauty 1933b, 46, 80 (no. 23); Lézine 1972b, 112–15, 130; Maury et al. 1982, 86–87; Hanna 1984, 33; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinecke 1992, II:253 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 44–45; BCCMAA 1899, 42; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 61; BCCMAA 1915–19, 89, 110–14, 511, 518, 546, 554, 583, 695, 773, 778; BCCMAA 1920–24, 339, 360; BCCMAA 1930–32, 144, 163; BCCMAA 1941–45, 72; BCCMAA 1946–53, 297; BIFAO 86 (1986), 369
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay AH 882 / AD 1477 This building has beautiful carved stone details, Map sheet including an engaged column at the corner of the 13 sabil, and a trilobed entry portal. It is classified separately from the adjacent wikala (no. 75), although they form an integral whole. The mashrabiya window over the entry portal is probably not original.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 142; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 264; Meinecke 1992, II:412–13 Listing and Conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 28–29; BCCMAA 1887–88, 9, 55; BCCMAA 1889, 55–56; BCCMAA 1890, 35, 101; BCCMAA 1901, 8; BCCMAA 1910, 16; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 85; BCCMAA 1911, 68; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1920–24, 335; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; Pauty 1931b, 160–61 n. 3; SCA 2002, 79–84, 424–26
77 House in the waqf of Zaynab Khatun AH 873 and 1125 / AD 1468 and 1713 This courtyard house, built by the saqi (‘cup-bearer’) Map sheet of Sultan Gaqmaq, Mithqal al-Suduni, was enlarged 13 during the Ottoman period. Particularly noteworthy are the maq‘ad and a vast first-floor qa‘a for summer use. The house was recently restored by the SCA and is used periodically for cultural events.
Plan: Maury et al. 1982, 109 (first floor) References: Pauty 1933b, 53–55, 80 (no. 24); Pauty 1936, 37; Revault and Maury 1979, 1–12; Maury et al. 1982, 99ff., 199–201; Seton-Williams
97 Mosque of al-Azhar AH 359–61 / AD 970–72 Founded by the Fatimids as the principal congregaMap sheet tional mosque of the royal city of al-Qahira, the 13 mosque of al-Azhar (‘the Shining’) has undergone numerous additions and extensions over time. It has functioned as a teaching center more or less since its foundation, attracting students from all parts of the Islamic world. The most notable surviving Fatimid components of the mosque are the keel-arches in the courtyard, the dome behind the central arch of the courtyard on the qibla side, and the stucco conch of the mihrab on the central axis. During the Mamluk period, individually dedicated madrasas were added to the north and west of the main courtyard. To the southwest lies the madrasa of the amir Taybars (AD 1309), whose fine marbleinlaid mihrab survives. To the northwest lies the madrasa of the amir Aqbugha, with its adjacent domed tomb chamber and minaret (1333–39). To the northeast is the small but finely decorated madrasa of the eunuch Gawhar (the treasurer of Sultan Barsbay), whose tomb here is adorned with a carved masonry
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dome (1440). Sultan Qaytbay built a gateway (1468) and minaret (ca. 1495) on the central axis to the west of the courtyard. The largest minaret of the mosque was added by Sultan al-Ghuri in 1510; it contains a double-helix spiral stair and is topped by a two finials that are square in plan. During the Ottoman period, ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda significantly enlarged the riwaqs on the qibla side and added (in 1751–52) two distinctive double-arched gateways to the southern and western perimeters, another portal on the east, and three minarets (two of which survive). His tomb is located on the southeastern side of the mosque. At the beginning of the twentieth century, Khedive ‘Abbas II Hilmi built a large extension to house the students and a library on the southern and western sides of the complex. The original context for the mosque, and its ancient ablutions area, were destroyed from the 1930s onward by the development of Shari‘ al-Azhar as a major thoroughfare and by the creation of the new al-Azhar University campus to the east of the mosque. The entire mosque was heavily restored and cleaned in 1998–2000. Plan: Creswell 1952 (fig. 20) (showing, in dashed lines, the northern extensions prior to demolition) References: Flury 1912; Creswell 1919, 49–51; Pauty 1932, 107; Lamm 1935–36, 68–69, 80–81 (woodwork); Sameh 1946, 41–58; Creswell 1952, 36–64, 254–57; Ibrahim 1970–71, 31–33, 37–38; Raymond 1972, 239; King 1984, 116–17; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 62–66; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 256–63; Meinecke 1992, II:25, 94, 105, 139, 176, 220, 229, 291, 307, 318, 338, 361, 397, 438, 470; Raymond 1995, 101–3; Rabbat 1996; Bierman 1998, 4, 6, 44, 50–51, 73–74, 135, 176 n. 65, 178 n. 93; Sayyid 1998, 191–207; O’Kane 1999, 154–55; O’Kane 2000, 158–59; Barrucand 2002; Tabbaa 2002, 70, 80, 110, 129 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 34; BCCMAA 1890, 104–5; BCCMAA 1891, 48; BCCMAA 1894, 50–51, 139–40; BCCMAA 1896, 27–29, 58–59, 93–94, 149; BCCMAA 1897, 98, 117, 149–50, 156; BCCMAA 1898, 140; BCCMAA 1899, 20–21; BCCMAA 1901, 90; BCCMAA 1902, 46; BCCMAA 1903, 28; BCCMAA 1907, 94; BCCMAA 1908, 74–75; BCCMAA 1909, 21–22; BCCMAA 1910, 14; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 25; BCCMAA 1915–19, 323, 490, 550, 682, 695, 776, 821; BCCMAA 1920–24, 258, 333; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39, 41, 46, 47, 158, 172, 180; BCCMAA 1936–40, 103, 110, 112, 113, 151, 154, 173, 177, 178, 294, 295, 341, 342, 344, 345, 346; BCCMAA 1941–45, 139–40, 151, 198, 219, 264; BCCMAA 1946–53, 11, 147, 167–68, 202; el-Zaher and el-Ela 1995; Ahunbay 2000; C. Williams 2002, 461; Sanders 2004 passim
98 Mosque of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab 1188 / AD 1774 Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab ruled Egypt for four Map sheet years after he ousted his master, ‘Ali Bey al-Kabir, 13 in AD 1772. This magnificent complex, which includes a tomb and library as well as a sabil and a watering trough (listed separately: see no. 62), is one of the most impressive eighteenth-century structures in Cairo. Built on a raised platform, with shops beneath, the mosque has a screen wall to the north, and a shallow domed arcade to the north, south, and west of the large central dome that covers AH
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the prayer-space. The minaret is freestanding, with square tiers. The ablutions area is located in part of the complex known as the takiya of Abu’l Dhahab (U27) that was built to the west early in the twentieth century. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 318 References: Pauty 1936, 11, 16; Crecelius 1978; Crecelius 1979; BehrensAbouseif 1987, 162–64; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 263–64 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 51; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 14–15, 21; BCCMAA 1901, 114; BCCMAA 1906, 25, 52; BCCMAA 1909, 61–62; BCCMAA 1910, 13; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 122; BCCMAA 1915–19, 182–87, 318, 322, 332, 425, 584, 773, 780, 818; BCCMAA 1927–27, 188; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15; Pauty 1931b, 161 n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 37; BCCMAA 1946–53, 146, 285; SCA 2002, 117–18
102 Mosque of al-Ayni AH 814 / AD 1411 This mosque was built for a prominent Hanafi Map sheet judge who served three sultans: Barquq, al13 Mu’ayyad Shaykh, and Barsbay. He died in AD 1451, having already restored his own complex, which included his tomb, in 1431. The northern and eastern façades of this mosque give the appearance of being modern, but the stone may merely have been plastered and false-pointed. There is an inscription band on the entry portal at the eastern façade. The main part of the mosque consists of a qa‘a to the north of the entrance; its interior has been heavily painted, and the mihrab’s original tiles, for which the mosque was famous, have also been overpainted or destroyed. Off this room lies the tomb chamber, which has beautiful painted wood muqarnas squinches.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 120; Mostafa 1982, 110–11; Ibrahim and O’Kane 1988; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 264; Meinecke 1992, II:312, 349 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 47–48, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 12; BCCMAA 1912, 25, 50; BCCMAA 1915–19, 819; BCCMAA 1930–32, 191, 200, 231; BCCMAA 1933–35, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13, 110, 114; BCCMAA 1941–45, 72; BCCMAA 1946–53, 146
103 Zawiya of Ahmad ibn Sha’ban Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This zawiya has a trilobed entry portal with decoMap sheet rative stone strapwork, which is flanked by a small 6 sabil that retains portions of a wood inscription over the window-grille. The entire façade is heavily overpainted at present. The entrance leads through a short corridor with an original painted wood ceiling to an open court, to the east of which lies the zawiya proper and the burial place of the shaykh after whom the building is named. The prayerspace consists of two arcades supported on reused antique columns; traces of the original painted ceiling survive. The
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mihrab and minbar are not original. To the north, behind a large mashrabiya screen, is the stone-vaulted tomb area with a separate stone mihrab surrounded by strapwork. Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 97 (classification of sabil only); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 9; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; SCA 2002, 113–16
105 Mausoleum of Sudun al-Qasrawi Before AH 873 / AD 1468 Sudun was an amir and dawadar of Sultan Inal; he Map sheet became commander of the corps of Mamluks 13 before dying on the battlefield in Aleppo in AD 1468. The only part of his complex that appears to be original is the tomb chamber, which has a ribbed plasteredbrick dome. The remainder of the building, including the prayer hall and entrance, seems to be a reconstruction dating to the latter part of the nineteenth century. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 137; Pauty 1929, 148–50 and pl. vii.29 (muqarnas); Kessler 1969, 265–66; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 269; Meinecke 1992, II:393 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 56–57; BCCMAA 1896, 22; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 152; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
107 Mosque of Kafur al-Zimam AH 829–30 / AD 1425–26 Kafur (‘camphor’) was an Anatolian eunuch who Map sheet became supervisor of Sultan Farag ibn Barquq’s harim 13 in the Citadel in AD 1408 and later served alMu’ayyad Shaykh as treasurer before retiring to Medina and heading the corps of eunuchs that guarded the Prophet’s tomb. He died in 1427. A fine inscription band runs across the mosque’s northern and eastern façades. The physical evidence suggests that the eastern façade originally continued some way to the south. The main portal has inlaid marble geometric kufic panels as well as a lower-level stone inscription. The building’s plan is cruciform, with greatly abbreviated lateral iwans. The courtyard was once covered; little of the roof survives, but a high-level inscription band with the blazon of the founder is still visible. The qibla iwan’s painted wood ceiling, raised on large wooden squinches, is almost certainly a later addition, for it cuts across the windows in the façade. An Ottoman sabil-kuttab, which has two fine stone corbels, stands adjacent to the northwestern corner of the building. These components indicate that the entire mosque was remodeled during the Ottoman period.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 124; Wiet 1965; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 268; Meinecke 1992, II:340–41; O’Kane 2000, 162–63 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 79; BCCMAA 1909, 29; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 82; BCCMAA 1911, 68; BCCMAA 1912, 24, 49, 89; BCCMAA 1913, 49, 97; 780; BCCMAA 1914, 2, 19, 58; BCCMAA 1915–19, 322, 359, 369, 585, 779; BCCMAA 1920–24, 257; BCCMAA 1946–53, 211, 284
109 Mosque of al-Fakahani and Fatimid doors 1184 / AD 1736; AH 544 / AD 1149 (doors) This mosque, nicknamed ‘the mosque of the Map sheet Fruitsellers,’ was built by Ahmad Katkhuda al20 Kharbutli in AD 1735 on the site of the Fatimid mosque of the khalif al-Zafir (r. 1149–54). Two pairs of magnificently carved doors from the Fatimid structure were reused; these were the first parts of the mosque to be registered in 1908, with the remainder of the building, including a sabil-kuttab, following in 1937. The interior has a large number of antique columns, perhaps also reused from the earlier structure. The building takes the form of a courtyard mosque raised above shops; in this case, the courtyard is roofed and has a skylight. There is a painted wood cornice throughout the arcades and a tiled surround to the upper level of the mihrab. The mosque was restored by the SCA in the late 1990s, and the southwestern section of the building has been totally rebuilt. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 64; Lamm 1935–36, 84 (doors and woodwork); Hanna 1984, 41–42; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 269; Meinecke 1992, II:94, 360; Bierman 1998, 181 n. 12; Sayyid 1998, 544–47 (Fatimid foundation) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1908, 18–19; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 53; BCCMAA 1915–19, 38, 402, 773, 777; BCCMAA 1920–24, 255; BCCMAA 1925–26, 38; BCCMAA 1936–40, 68; BCCMAA 1946–53, 201, 293
112 Mosque of Aslam al-Silahdar AH 745–46 / AD 1344–45 It is probable that Aslam, the swordbearer of Map sheet Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, first built his tomb on 14 the site and followed it with the mosque, as the tomb has a highly decorated ablaq portal of its own that is now located within the mosque. The mosque’s southern façade was heavily rebuilt by the Comité, with large areas of new stonework and new crenellations. There are three inscription bands on the main portal on the southern façade and on the subsidiary portal on the western façade. The ribbed plastered-brick dome over the tomb chamber is in good condition, with a rare tile-mosaic inscription band that is largely intact on the northern side of the drum (the complementary inscription band, on the drums’s south, is entirely missing). Only the lower story of the minaret is original. The sahn, probably open originally, was roofed by the Comité with a steel structure. The painted ceilings of the qibla and south iwans are intact; those in the other iwans are recent replacements. A wooden inscription band (most of it illegible or replaced, except in the qibla iwan) runs across the interior. The mihrab of the mosque is plain, with a few fragments of the original marble revetment in place, and that in the tomb chamber has a fine stucco hood. A wooden dikka occupies the western iwan.
Plan: Meinecke 1992 I:163; SCA Archive for area to east References: Creswell 1919, 101; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Meinecke
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1977, 117–19; Karnouk 1981, 117, 119 (minbar); J. Williams 1984, 36, 40; Karim 1988; Meinecke 1992, II:201; O’Kane 2000, 159–60 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 6; BCCMAA 1898, 36; BCCMAA 1900, 7, 48; BCCMAA 1905, 65; BCCMAA 1908, 98; BCCMAA 1909, 139; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 24; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 83; BCCMAA 1913, 83; BCCMAA 1915–19, 94–96, 643, 683, 709, 773, 776, 820; BCCMAA 1920–24, 95, 154, 256–57, 359; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13
113 Tomb of Azdumur Before AH 922 / AD 1517 The form of this now-derelict structure, located Map sheet immediately to the north of the tomb of the amir 8 Tarabay (no. 255), more closely resembles a zawiya than a tomb. It was built by a secretary of Sultan al-Ghuri and is not to be confused with a tomb of the same name (monument no. 90) in the northern cemetery. The main entrance, through a square-headed portal with flat muqarnas decoration, is on the eastern side of the building. This leads through a dog-legged corridor into a double iwan space with two mihrabs; vestiges of residential units constitute the remainder of the first floor. Two cenotaphs in the southern iwan may be later burials. A blocked entrance to the building from a street along the western edge of the site was exposed by excavations in 2000, as was the entrance to a crypt under the northern iwan. Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 314; Meinecke 1992, II:453 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 115; BCCMAA 1910, 11; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 169; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776
114 Mosque of Qagmas al-Ishaqi AH 885 / AD 1480 This mosque is more commonly known by the name Map sheet of Shaykh Abu Hurayra or Hariba, who was buried 14 here in the nineteenth century. The founder, an important amir of Sultan Qaytbay, died in Damascus. The mosque is built on a triangular plot, and is connected by a bridge to its ablutions court on the other side of a street to the northwest. It is one of the most lavishly decorated of the Qaytbay-period monuments and was heavily restored by the Comité in 1896. It would seem that the listing does not extend to the hawd (occupied by a shop) and kuttab (still in use as a school) also on the other side of the street to the northwest. The complex takes the form of a cruciform madrasa, with a sabil, minaret, dome over the tomb chamber, and two portals. The main portal faces west and is embellished with ablaq decoration (also found over the window heads). The secondary portal (on the eastern façade) is today disused. The whole building is constructed above shop units, which are today substantially underground. The sabil (which has a separate access from the street) is derelict, but a fine salsabil with wooden muqarnas hood and a painted wood ceiling is preserved within.
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Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:159 (mezzanine) References: Creswell 1919, 145; Kessler 1969, 265; J. Williams 1984, 39, pl. 6; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 151–52; Meinecke 1992, II:418; Asfour 2000, 241, 249, 253, 256–57; Seton-Watson 2000, 61–64 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 85–89 (with plan); BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 51–52, 79, 113–14; BCCMAA 1894, 13–14, 19, 41, 82, 103–04, 120, 133; BCCMAA 1895, 20, 28, 44, 48–49, 96; BCCMAA 1896, 41, 128–29, 162; BCCMAA 1897, 24, 53, 63, 68–69, 98–99, 109–110; BCCMAA 1898, 8–9, 20, 61; BCCMAA 1899, 66; BCCMAA 1900, 34, 58; BCCMAA 1901, 6–7; BCCMAA 1902, 33, 48, 74; BCCMAA 1903, 30; BCCMAA 1905, 48–49; BCCMAA 1906, 24, 76, 109; BCCMAA 1907, 18–19; BCCMAA 1908, 66–67; BCCMAA 1909, 63; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 103–4; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782, 835; BCCMAA 1930–32, 24; BCCMAA 1946–53, 293
115 Mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar AH 725 / AD 1324 This mosque, originally built by an amir of Sultan Map sheet al-Nasir Muhammad, was restored by the Ottoman 14 sultan Ahmet III in AD 1722. A passageway (now blocked) once led through the building to the street behind; the mosque was part of a complex that included a qaysariya and rab‘ (now lost). The mosque is entered from a fine ablaq portal with a bull’s-eye window and two inlaid marble inscription bands. Only the lower section of the plastered-brick minaret is original. The tomb chamber has a ribbed plasteredbrick dome; the marble inscription on the founder’s cenotaph within is more or less intact. With the exception of the qibla iwan’s painted wood ceiling, the mosque’s interior is without decorative interest.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:64 ; SCA Archive (ablutions area) References: Creswell 1919, 95; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Meinecke 1992, II:139; Bierman 1998, 141, 142; Seton-Watson 2000, 68–71; Asfour 2000, 244–46; O’Kane 2000, 159; Karim 2002, 44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 47; BCCMAA 1884, 15–16; BCCMAA 1885, 4–5; BCCMAA 1890, 86; BCCMAA 1891, 25; BCCMAA 1892, 100, 110; BCCMAA 1894, 15–16; BCCMAA 1897, 21; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 117; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780, 830
116 Mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘ AH 555 / AD 1160 This mosque was built by the wazir of the Fatimid Map sheet khalif al-Fa‘iz: the amir al-Salih Tala’i‘. The build21 ing, an early example of a mosque built above shop units, takes the form of a courtyard surrounded by arcades of antique columns. The ground level around the building has risen by two to three meters since its construction; the entire structure is now surrounded by an artificial trench that allows access to the shop units (some of which are still in use). The interior is approached through an unusual portico of keel-arches (a Comité reconstruction) supported on antique columns. The mashrabiya screens to either side of the portico are copies of the original maqsura screens
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(now in the Islamic Museum), as are the bronze-plated doors. There are two subsidiary entrances on the northern and southern façades. The most significant restoration work carried out on the mosque was executed by the Comité in the 1920s and 1930s, when the building was disengaged from the accretive structures that surrounded it and most of the façades entirely reconstructed. The original arcades are those on the qibla side: the lateral arcades and the western, or entry, arcade are reconstructions by the Comité, which rebuilt much of the mosque to conform to their idea of what such a Fatimid mosque should look like. During this process, a Mamluk replacement for the northern arcade and a Mamluk/Ottoman minaret were demolished. The keel-arches of the qibla riwaqs are decorated with a band of carved stucco inscription around their perimeter, and they are connected to one another with carved wood tie-beams. Little of the Mamluk mihrab’s decoration survives. The fine wooden minbar with panels of geometric decoration, endowed on the mosque in AD 1300 by the amir Baktimur alGukandar, was restored in 1998 by the EAP. Subsequent to this, another (extremely heavy) restoration of the entire building has been carried out by the SCA. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I: 63 References: Creswell 1919, 66; Pauty 1931a; Pauty 1932b, 111 (fig. 14) and 112–13; Lamm 1935–36, 86–87; Creswell 1952, 275–88; Ibrahim, 1970–71, 33–35, 38; Garcin 1970, 102–4; Karnouk 1981, 117 and n. 3l; 120 and n. 2, 129 (minbar); Hanna 1984, 19; Meinecke 1992, II:89, 94, 359, 414; ARCE/EAP 1995; Jaubert 1995, 189; Bierman 1998, 103, 117–20, 119, 127, 131, 141, 179 n. 93, 181–82 n. 13; Sayyid 1998, 547–58; Seton-Watson 2000, 45–54; al-Harithy 2001, 80, 86; Sanders 2004, 127–28, 133 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 5–6; BCCMAA 1897, 26–27, 152; BCCMAA 1898, 105; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 146; BCCMAA 1911, 428, 436; BCCMAA 1915–19, 524, 555, 783; BCCMAA 1920–24, 586, 589; BCCMAA 1930–32, 103–19; Pauty 1931b, 159 n. 1; BCCMAA 1936–40, 2, 6, 13, 52, 56, 104, 205–7, 243, 246, 272–73, 275–76, 278–79, 280, 312, 314, 326, 333, 375, 377–78; BCCMAA 1941–45, 56, 152, 175, 322, 345; BCCMAA 1946–53, 140; Sanders 2004, 127–28, 133
117 Mosque of Mahmud al-Kurdi AH 795 / AD 1393 Mahmud al-Kurdi, the majordomo of Sultan Map sheet Barquq, built this madrasa prior to falling out of 21 favor. The façade has a high-level inscription band and a trilobed portal with muqarnas, above which is located the minaret. The doors have their original metal revetments, and there are fine bronze grilles to the windows with decorated wooden frames. The tomb chamber has a stone dome with ribbed horizontal chevrons (Ibrahim [1976] distinguishes it as the earliest appearance of this motif on a dome) and an inscription. The interior underwent major restoration in the late 1990s, and the minaret has been plastered white.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:191 References: Creswell 1919, 117; Pauty 1929, 148 (muqarnas); Ibrahim 1976,
9; Mostafa 1982, 99–100; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 319; Meinecke 1992, II:285–86; O’Kane 2000, 160, 162–63, 164 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 64, 83; BCCMAA 1897, 62–63; BCCMAA 1901, 68; BCCMAA 1905, 53; BCCMAA 1909, 33, 75; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 106; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; C. Williams 2002, 463 n. 25
118 Mosque of Inal al-Yusufi AH 794 / AD 1392–93 Also referred to as Inal al-Atabaki, the founder was Map sheet an amir of Sultan Sha’ban II. His complex resem21 bles that of Mahmud al-Kurdi (see no. 117) slightly to the north, with one important exception: the plan is orthogonal with no adjustment to qibla internally; the result is that the qibla orientation differs greatly from that of other mosques in the area. Blazons distributed throughout the building indicate that Inal was the armorer (silahdar) to the sultan. The mosque has an inscribed trilobed portal, a sabilkuttab with a reused antique column at the southwestern corner of the site, a minaret located directly over the main entrance, and a stone ribbed dome. The kuttab is a rebuilding by the Comité. The internal plan of the mosque is a simple four-iwan structure.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:159 References: Creswell 1919, 117; Mostafa 1982, 96–99; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 121–22; Meinecke 1992, II:282; O’Kane 2000, 160, 162 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, 92; BCCMAA 1899, 70; BCCMAA 1901, 68, 103; BCCMAA 1902, 18; BCCMAA 1904, 79; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 81; BCCMAA 1915–19, 779
119 Mosque of Ganibak AH 830 / AD 1426 The founder of this building was a mamluk of Map sheet Sultan Barsbay. Although the complex contains a 21 tomb, Ganibak was buried—after his premature and suspicious death at the age of 25—by Barsbay in another tomb in the latter’s complex in the northern cemetery. The mosque has a façade of two bays and is entered by a trilobed ablaq portal with muqarnas. There are three inscriptions on the portal, one of which takes the form of an inlaid geometric kufic panel. The stone masonry dome over the tomb chamber has chevrons and a carved inscription on its surface. The minaret (also incribed) is located to the right of the entrance. Much of the building’s decoration survives, including bronze window grilles, doors, marble pavements, and a beautiful muqarnas ceiling in the entry vestibule. The painted wood ceilings of the qibla and southern iwans are original, that of the western iwan is substantially new, and that of the northern iwan is in extremely bad condition—the result of an obvious failure of the roof. The mihrab has lost its marble lining; the minbar, although original, is heavily overpainted. Modern shop units to the south of the building conceal the remains of a subsidiary portal with an empty inscription band.
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Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:158 References: Creswell 1919, 124; Pauty 1929, 148, fig. 16, and pl. vii.26 (muqarnas); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 320; Meinecke 1992, II:344 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1908, 57; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 59; BCCMAA 1911, 23, 27, 50, 75, 87; BCCMAA 1913, 10, 33; BCCMAA 1915–19, 131–32, 403, 446, 464, 585, 777; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94; BCCMAA 1946–53, 89, 91–92, 291, 350
120 Mosque of al-Maridani AH 738–40 / AD 1337–39 This mosque was built by the amir Altunbugha alMap sheet Maridani, the cup-bearer and son-in-law of Sultan 14 al-Nasir Muhammad. It is a large, richly decorated courtyard mosque with two major portals to the north and west and a minor portal to the south. The original context of the western portal (which is decorated) is uncertain, since it no longer faces a significant street. Although the southern portal, in contrast, faces a street, it is plain. The decorated northern portal has fine marble work and two inscription bands. A further inscription band runs across the upper part of the mosque’s crenellated perimeter wall. The original minaret and wooden dome above the mihrab, supported on antique granite columns, are in good condition; the upper tier of the minaret and the dome are Comité replacements. The outer qibla arcade was entirely rebuilt by the Comité during extensive restorations from 1895 to 1903. The fountain pavilion in the center of the sahn was brought from the madrasa of Sultan Hasan (no. 133)— one of two originally in that madrasa—and installed at the same time (it has recently been totally reconstructed). Crenellations line the perimeter of the courtyard, which is flanked on the side of the qibla arcades by a magnificent inscribed turned-wood screen, and on the northern and southern sides by low marble balustrades. The wooden screen may have been built to screen off the qibla arcades from pedestrian traffic using the mosque as a shortcut between streets. The qibla wall has a fine marble dado and inlaid marble mihrab, adjacent to which is the original minbar. The foundation inscription is mounted on the northern wall within the qibla arcades.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:60 References: Creswell 1919, 100–101; Pauty 1929, 148 (muqarnas); Pauty 1932, 118–19; Meinecke 1977, 107–12; Karnouk 1981, 115, 116, 120 and n. 2 and pl. ii.1 (minbar); J. Williams 1984, 36, 40; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 308–9; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 113–15; Meinecke 1992, II:178; Blair and Bloom 1995, 81; Asfour 2000, 243–44, 248–49; al-Harithy 2000, 232; O’Kane 2000, 164–65; Seton-Watson 2000, 76–80; Karim 2002, 44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 19; BCCMAA 1892, 70; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 88; BCCMAA 1894, 36, 77, 126–30; BCCMAA 1896, 128; BCCMAA 1897, 55–56, 64, 71, 109–10, 130, 148; BCCMAA 1898, 9–10, 75, 115; BCCMAA 1899, 23, 54–55, 66, 88, 113; BCCMAA 1900, 45; BCCMAA 1901, 8, 22, 65, 87, 90–91; BCCMAA 1902, 83, 116, 120; BCCMAA 1903, 6; BCCMAA 1905, 15, 34; BCCMAA 1906, 28–29; BCCMAA 1909, 61, 149–50; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 114–15; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780, 830; BCCMAA 1936–40, 295; BCCMAA 1946–53, 50, 54–55, 57, 90–91, 117, 235–36, 254, 291, 298, 309, 342
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123 Mosque of Aqsunqur AH 747 / AD 1346 Aqsunqur (‘the White Falcon’) was a son-in-law of Map sheet Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad; he eventually married 8 and 15 al-Nasir Muhammad’s widow. The mausoleum to the north of the entrance (built in AD 1341) predates the foundation of the mosque itself and is not correctly aligned to qibla, following the orientation of the street. It contains the graves of several of al-Nasir Muhammad’s sons, including the child-sultan Kujuk. A plaster inscription band adorns the interior of the first tomb built on the northern corner of the site. Aqsunqur and his wife are buried next to the southern wall of the mosque near the qibla arcades. The mosque is unusual for its stucture, using piers to support stone vaults. The outer qibla arcade must also originally have been constructed with similar vaults, which were most likely changed by Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan in his 1652 restoration of the building, when he added his own tomb and the tiles for which this mosque is now famous. The minaret has a plain circular shaft and was originally composed of four tiers: the third was omitted in the Comité’s reconstruction. The mosque was built by the same architect as the mosque of al-Maridani (no. 120) further to the north along the Darb al-Ahmar. The main portal takes the form of a large pointed arch springing from corbels, and two subsidiary entrances lead into the northern and southern riwaqs. A square ablutions enclosure with an octagonal water basin occupies the center of the sahn, although the original ablutions area probably stood outside the boundary of the mosque itself. The vaulted qibla riwaqs have a maqsura dome over the Mamluk inlaid-marble mihrab, which has one original inscription around the inside of its hood and another on the right-hand side. The dikka and minbar are of stone (the latter inlaid with marble), with wooden doors. The qibla wall is constructed on a slight batter and is lined with the blue-and-white Iznik tiles that give the mosque its popular designation: the Blue Mosque. The tomb chamber of Ibrahim Agha is also decorated with these tiles, and an important inscription commemorating his restoration straddles the entrance to the minaret at ground level.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 102–4; J. Williams 1969, 457; Mantran 1972, 215; Meinecke 1973, 9–38; Meinecke-Berg 1973, 39–62; Raymond 1979b, 121–23; Karnouk 1981, 123 and pl. 1.1 (minbar); J. Williams 1984, 36; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 88; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 115; Mostafa 1989, 38; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 311–12; Meinecke 1992, II:198–99, 206–7, 315; O’Kane 2000, 166; Seton-Watson 2000, 106–10; Karim 2002, 44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 9; BCCMAA 1889, 60; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 36, 63, 76; BCCMAA 1896, 59; BCCMAA 1897, 65–66; BCCMAA 1901, 23; BCCMAA 1902, 16, 24; BCCMAA 1903, 29; BCCMAA 1904, 7, 36; BCCMAA 1906, 76 (tomb of Ibrahim Agha); BCCMAA 1907, 81–82; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 14; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1920–24, 256, 274, 359; BCCMAA 1933–35, 140, 143, 147, 160, 173, 181, 183, 186; BCCMAA 1946–53, 54, 56–57
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Madrasa of Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban
Mosque of Alti Barmaq
770 / AD 1368 This cruciform madrasa was probably built by the Map sheet mother of Sultan al-Ashraf Sha’ban, Khawand 15 Baraka, as the name of the mosque suggests, rather than by Sha’ban himself. The wife of one of al-Nasir Muhammad’s sons, Khawand Baraka subsequently married the amir Ilgay al-Yusufi. Sha’ban was strangled in AD 1376 and never completed his own funerary complex, situated near that of Sultan Hasan (no. 133); he is buried in the smaller of the two tomb chambers that flank the qibla iwan of this madrasa, the other being occupied by his mother. The main façade, on Darb al-Ahmar, is divided into recessed bays, each topped by flat muqarnas decoration, through which runs a continuous inscription band at high level. The magnificent portal has a conical muqarnas hood, reminiscent of Seljuq designs, bordered by an area of delicately carved tracery and inscription running in a band that frames the hood. The lower area of the portal has more conventional ablaq decoration and a further inscription. There is a sabil to the left of the portal with a geometric wooden grille and inscription, and a kuttab over the watering trough to the right (also with an inscription). The main portal is not used today, and access is gained from the secondary portal on the western side of the building. The two tomb chambers are crowned with two masonry ribbed domes of unequal size. The madrasa’s interior has fragmentary remains of a wooden inscription band running along the iwans and an intact stone inscription around the sahn at high level. The iwans have painted wood ceilings. The qibla wall, inlaid with marble, survives and has a marble inscription. The mihrab has been restored, and the minbar is not original. The shutters to the tomb chambers flanking the qibla iwan are original, however, and are of very high quality. The complex was restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in 2001–04, in a project that also replaced the missing finial on the minaret.
AH 1123 / AD 1711 The name of the founder of this mosque, which is Map sheet raised up above shop units, means ‘six fingers.’ 15 Elements of the façade include a sabil to the right of the trilobed stone portal, a plastered-brick dome over the tomb chamber, and a minaret. A staircase leads from the vestibule under a wooden dikka into the prayer hall. This has an unusual design, with a flat timber ceiling in the center flanked by stone cross-vaulted riwaqs on columns. The Iznik tiles decorating the surround to the mihrab are older than the building itself, dating between AD 1555 and 1700. The tomb chamber lies directly behind the qibla wall, and the entire orientation of the building is significantly at variance with the true qibla direction.
AH
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:124 References: Creswell 1919, 112; Ebeid 1976, 42–49; Fernandes 1976; Kessler 1984, 97–108; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 78; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 309; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 129–31; Meinecke 1992, II:246; Asfour 2000, 251; Seton-Watson 2000, 95–105 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 64–65; BCCMAA 1884, 7–8; BCCMAA 1899, 66; BCCMAA 1905, 110; BCCMAA 1907, 50; BCCMAA 1908, 12, 103; BCCMAA 1909, 114–15; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 41; BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1933–35, 147, 160, 173, 181; BCCMAA 1941–45, 81; BCCMAA 1946–53, 185, 202, 203
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12, 13; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 328 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 22, 32, 53; BCCMAA 1890, 90; BCCMAA 1895, 32; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 19; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1941–45, 363
127 Mosque of Sudun Min Zada AH 804 / AD 1401 Only part of the heavily eroded qibla wall and Map sheet northern flank wall of this Mamluk courtyard 15 mosque survive. The rest of the mosque was demolished in the 1960s to make way for two concrete apartment blocks. Remnants of the stuccoed mihrab can still be seen on the qibla wall. Capitals from the mosque (whose provenance has been traced, by Rondot [1991], to a Ptolemaic or Roman structure at Antinoopolis) were transferred to the lower area of the Citadel for storage.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:160 References: Creswell 1919, 117–18; Mostafa 1982, 106–7; Rondot 1991; Meinecke 1992, II:299 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 22, 34, 53–54; BCCMAA 1898, 37; BCCMAA 1901, 50; BCCMAA 1902, 36, 73; BCCMAA 1903, 89–92 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1904, 81; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 36; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
128 Qubba of al-Qimari AH 730 / AD 1329 The ribbed dome of this tomb is of plastered-brick. A fragment of inscription band at the base of the drum 22 survives; two other surviving inscriptions are visible on the façade and portal. The façade has two recessed bays with muqarnas decoration, as does the portal. Adjacent to the portal is a section of original wall with a projecting wooden balcony above it that also extends over the portal. The remainder of the building comprises a neo-Mamluk raised mosque, accessed from the street to the north.
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References: Meinecke 1992, II:152 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 76 (classification); BCCMAA 1901, 64; BCCMAA 1905, 65; BCCMAA 1906, 75; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 105; BCCMAA 1915–19, 323, 782, 836; BCCMAA 1933–35, 147, 160, 173, 181; BCCMAA 1946–53, 213
129 Mosque and mausoleum of Ganem al-Bahlawan AH 883–916 / AD 1478–1510 Ganem al-Bahlawan was the brother of the amir Map sheet Yashbak (the foremost amir of Sultan Qaytbay). The 22 tomb chamber of this complex, built in AD 1510 (slightly later than the mosque itself), has a magnificent masonry dome carved with arabesques and an inscription band. The building is richly and exuberantly decorated throughout: the main façade even has muqarnas carved with floral motifs and a highly original pattern of crenellation. The portal has two inscriptions, but only that at high level survives substantially intact. The stone minaret is typical of Qaytbayperiod minarets in its elaboration, with arabesques carved on the central tier. The main doors have fine metal revetments. The interior has a plan in the form of a T, with three arcades parallel to the qibla wall. The sahn is covered with a contemporaneous wooden ceiling and lantern. The last major restoration took place under the supervision of Max Herz in 1898. The plan of the adjacent house, to the right of the portal, is also shown on the map.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:164 References: Creswell 1919, 143; Pauty 1929, 148–50, pl. vii.28 (muqarnas); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 320; Meinecke 1992, II:415–16 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 127 (classification under the name Ganem al–Tagir); BCCMAA 1902, 33, 108; BCCMAA 1903, 29; BCCMAA 1905, 14–15, 53; BCCMAA 1909, 149; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 58; BCCMAA 1912, 26; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92; Ormos 2002, 135–37, 142–43
130 Mosque of Ulmas AH 730 / AD 1329–30 Sayf al-Din Ulmas (‘the Eternal’) was an amir of alNasir Muhammad who rose to be viceroy before 22 being executed by the latter in AD 1333. The interior of the mosque has been flooded for many years; the structure is heavily propped and inaccessible (Karim 2000 describes the interior in some detail). The ground level around the building has risen by approximately one and a half meters. A deep muqarnas portal, which retains its original doors with bronze facings, gives onto the main street, and a subsidiary door onto the side street to the north. The highlevel inscription band and wooden window grilles on the main facade are still intact. The tomb chamber has a smooth plastered-brick dome with traces of stucco carving around the windows in the transitional zone. The intact minaret to the south of the main entrance is an Ottoman reconstruction (1713) in the Mamluk style. The mosque is flanked to the south
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by a small Ottoman rab‘, which is also shown on the accompanying map plan. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:62 and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 95; Pauty 1929, 146 and pl. iv.15 (muqarnas); Kessler 1969, 265, 266; J. Williams 1984, 36; Seton-Williams and Stocks, 1988, 331; Meinecke 1992, II:150, Karim 2000; O’Kane 2000, 155 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 15; BCCMAA 1901, 107; BCCMAA 1902, 95; BCCMAA 1903, 73; BCCMAA 1909, 17, 60–61; BCCMAA 1910, 117; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 18; BCCMAA 1911, 27, 49, 60, 102; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 27, 49, 74, 89 120; BCCMAA 1915–19, 404, 764, 797, 820; BCCMAA 1920–24, 259; BCCMAA 1946–53, 142
131 Mosque of Ilgay al-Yusufi AH 774 / AD 1373 The amir Ilgay al-Yusufi held the rank of armorer or Map sheet swordbearer (silahdar), and his complex is located, 15 appropriately enough, in the Suq al-Silah, or sword market. He married the mother of Sultan Sha’ban while the latter was still a child but quarreled with Sha’ban after Khawand Baraka’s death and died while attempting to flee Egypt. His funerary complex, restored by the SCA in 1998, is a large one. The crenellated façade is divided into bays with either muqarnas or keel-arched hoods, and has an inscribed trilobed muqarnas portal framed by a molding. Above the portal stands a three-tiered minaret; to the left is a very tall sabilkuttab with reused antique corner columns. At the southern end of the building is the tomb chamber with a spiral-ribbed dome of plastered brick. The entry vestibule has an elaborate stone groin vault leading through a bent entrance into the sahn of the cruciform madrasa. The qibla and western iwans have new ceilings; the flanking iwans retain their original painted wood ceilings. Fragments of stone inscriptions survive over the entrance doors to the sahn. The bulk of the accommodation for those who studied here is located on the northern side of the building, with its own entrance and elevation on a side street.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 113; Ebeid 1976, 58–61 (sabil); Karnouk 1981, 120 (minbar); Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 78; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 131–32; Meinecke 1992, II:254 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 72, 101; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 20–21; BCCMAA 1895, 75–76; BCCMAA 1897, 54; BCCMAA 1898, 35–36; BCCMAA 1907, 18; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 16; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49, 113; BCCMAA 1913, 31, 33; BCCMAA 1914, 2, 18, 86, 106; BCCMAA 1915–19, 108–10, 404, 432, 446, 458, 464, 585, 695, 819, 801; BCCMAA 1941–45, 186, 232, 363; BCCMAA 1946–53, 289, 341
133 Madrasa of Sultan Hasan AH 757–64 / AD 1356–62 This famous monument, whose inscriptions and decoration have been the subject of extensive study, 16 combines a madrasa, khanqah, and mausoleum on an unsurpassed scale. Situated to the west of Midan al-Rumayla at the foot of the Citadel, the building, constructed
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by Hasan, a son of al-Nasir Muhammad, was once surrounded by a much denser urban fabric; it now stands in isolation opposite the mosque of al-Rifa‘i (U103). The principal façades are each crowned by a vast muqarnas cornice. The plan is that of a cruciform madrasa, surrounded to the north and south by multistory cells (for the students) that appear on the elevations as windows set within elongated bays. The entrance is through a massive unfinished portal with a deep muqarnas hood and ribbed semidome, decorated with inscriptions in naskhi and geometric kufic, and carved tracery and medallions. Following Seljuq models, the portal was originally intended to have two flanking minarets; only one was built, and it collapsed in AD 1361. The original doors to the mosque can now be seen on the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (no. 190). The portal leads into a large vestibule with heavy muqarnas decoration, which gives access to the bent entrance that takes the visitor into the central sahn. This courtyard is flanked on its four sides by four enormous iwans—one for the use of each school. Doors framed in ablaq marble lead to smaller courts and to the students’ living quarters. The courtyard has one surviving fountain pavilion at its center: a second pavilion was removed in the nineteenth century to the mosque of alMaridani (no. 120), and the polychrome marble inlaid floor was heavily restored at the same time. The qibla iwan retains its original polychrome marble dado, inlaid mihrab, and kufic inscription band in plaster. A stone minbar and stone dikka constitute the other furnishings of this space. Immediately behind the qibla wall lies the tomb chamber with a similar marble dado and mihrab, a high-level carved and painted wood inscription, and the original wood muqarnas squinches. The dome itself is a seventeenth-century replacement. Of the two minarets that flank the tomb chamber, the larger, southern one is original, while the smaller, northern minaret is an Ottoman replacement in Mamluk style for the minaret that matched its southern counterpart in scale but collapsed in 1659. The ancillary buildings to the west of the main bulk of the madrasa are worthy of separate mention. These are the remains of an enormous saqiya and cistern, together with the Dar alBaqar, or ‘the House of Oxen,’ named for the oxen that turned the waterwheel. The corbels that supported a channel for the water leading to the Rumayla can still be seen projecting from the southwestern façade of the madrasa. Rabbat (1995) dates the waterworks to the Ayyubid period, although modifications were subsequently made by sultans Baybars and Hasan, who incorporated these structures into the complex. What survives was heavily reconstructed by the Comité, which used these spaces as storerooms. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:116; Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan; CMP Survey References: Herz 1899a; Creswell 1919, 108–9; Creswell 1922, 51–54; Pauty 1929, 148 and pl. v (muqarnas portal); Kessler 1969, 263, 264; Rogers 1970–71, 40–68; Dodd and Khairallah 1981, I:43–59; Karnouk 1981, 115–16, 137 and pl. ii.2 (minbar); Hanna 1984, 40 and 40 n. 3; J. Williams 1984, 41; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 78; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 96–101; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 321–25; Meinecke 1992, II:224–25; Blair and Bloom 1995: 81–84; Rabbat 1995, 22, 104–8, 220, 224, 277; al-Harithy 1996; Bierman 1998, 142 (mausoleum); Kessler 1999; al-Harithy 2001, 83–84, 87 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 6, 17; BCCMAA 1889, 145;
BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 104–9; BCCMAA 1894, 47, 51–52, 54, 96, 111, 145; BCCMAA 1895, 49; BCCMAA 1896, 49–50, 147–48, 152–53, 176, 181–82; BCCMAA 1897, 27–28, 41–42, 88, 100–2, 126–27, 154; BCCMAA 1898, 27, 45, 105; BCCMAA 1899, 23, 76; BCCMAA 1900, 56–57; BCCMAA 1901, 37–38, 47–48, 113; BCCMAA 1902, 8, 24, 120–21; BCCMAA 1903, 23, 68; Abbate Pacha 1904; BCCMAA 1904, 34, 54–55, 57–58, 66–67, 88; BCCMAA 1905, 15, 33–34, 46–47, 74–75, 78–79; BCCMAA 1906, 22–24, 29–30, 94, 109; BCCMAA 1907, 7–8, 18, 32–33, 49, 80–81, 121–22; BCCMAA 1908, 28–29, 50–51, 56–57; BCCMAA 1909, 16, 60, 74, 92–93, 138; BCCMAA 1910, 111–13; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 72; BCCMAA 1911, 5, 7–8, 26–27, 49, 65, 87, 96, 104, 114; BCCMAA 1912, 83, 99, 112; BCCMAA 1913, 30, 32, 41, 47, 68, 74, 80, 97, 99, 129; BCCMAA 1914, 1, 6, 54, 58, 61, 105, 130, 59; BCCMAA 1915–19, 105–6, 321, 348, 366, 584–85, 695; BCCMAA 1920–24, 103, 146, 169, 255–56, 300, 347; BCCMAA 1930–32, 52, 60, 64, 196, 202, 232; BCCMAA 1933–35, 41, 42, 47, 92, 140, 142, 165; BCCMAA 1936–40, 203, 205, 326, 336–37, 341–42, 348–49, 351–52, 354; BCCMAA 1941–45, 2; BCCMAA 1946–53, 40–41, 45, 47–51, 55, 70, 72, 103, 105, 214, 334, 407, 413, 422
134 Madrasa of Gawhar al-Lala AH 833 / AD 1430 Gawhar was a eunuch in the service of Sultan Map sheet Barsbay, and was tutor (lala) to the latter’s children. 16 He fell from favor with the accession of Gaqmaq and died in AD 1438. His mosque is tiny, but it combines all the familiar elements of the Mamluk repertoire. The façade of the building is covered with pronounced bands of red and yellow limestone. The inscription on the portal and the metal revetments to the door both survive. The iwans retain their painted wood ceilings, and the inlaid marble dado survives, as does the inscribed mihrab. The top tier of the minaret and the dome over the simple tomb chamber are Ottoman replacements. The sabil-kuttab appears to have been rebuilt by the Comité between 1895 and 1898; the lantern in the mosque’s inner court may also be a Comité restoration.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 93–94; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 326–27; Meinecke 1992, II:346–47; Garcin and Taher 1995a; Garcin and Taher 1995b; Fernandes 2000, 213–14; O’Kane 2000, 170 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 60–63 (with plan); BCCMAA 1895, 89; BCCMAA 1896, 175, 181; BCCMAA 1897, 20, 54–55; BCCMAA 1899, 9, 55, 126; BCCMAA 1900, 86–87; BCCMAA 1901, 22; BCCMAA 1902, 17, 144–146 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 66; BCCMAA 1915–19, 450, 798
135 Mosque al-Mahmudiya AH 975 / AD 1568 The founder of this mosque, Mahmud al-Maqtul, Map sheet was a famously harsh Ottoman governor of Cairo, 16 who was ultimately assassinated. It contains the only mausoleum built by an Ottoman governor for himself. The most curious feature of the mosque is that the
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rear (east) façade formally imitates the arrangement of the rear façade of the adjacent madrasa of Sultan Hasan (no. 133) and is Mamluk in style, with the exception of the Ottoman minaret. All the façades are composed of red-and-white ablaq masonry, a decorative theme that continues inside the building. To the left of the entrance portal at ground level are the remains of a brick-vaulted underground structure, probably a cistern. The portal is trilobed, with muqarnas decoration, and leads into a simple square prayer chamber. Within this enclosure stand four large, reused granite columns, which define an inner square covered by an ornate wooden lantern (probably a Comité restoration). The four separate painted wood ceilings around the perimeter are probably original; a deep, painted wood inscription band runs beneath them. The mihrab is unadorned stone. The perimeter walls of the prayer space are pierced by many windows, which give the interior a great sense of openness. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; J. Williams 1969, 456; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 316; Bates 1991, 153–55; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 198–200 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 27; BCCMAA 1891, 46–47; BCCMAA 1899, 88, 114; BCCMAA 1900, 11, 31, 57, 61, 91; BCCMAA 1901, 37, 58, 62; BCCMAA 1902, 122; BCCMAA 1903, 40, 82; BCCMAA 1904, 85; BCCMAA 1905, 24, 45, 98; BCCMAA 1906, 75–76, 119–23 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1908, 34; BCCMAA 1910, 24; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 111; BCCMAA 1913, 33; BCCMAA 1915–19, 474–75, 800; BCCMAA 1920–24, 86; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 50
136 Mosque of Qanibay al-Sayfi (Amir Akhur) AH 908 / AD 1503 Qanibay, ‘the Master of the Horse,’ was originally a Map sheet mamluk of Sultan Qaytbay whose career continued 16 past the Ottoman conquest of Egypt. The site of the building is a steep slope, used to great effect in the placement of the complex’s architectural elements: the sabilkuttab on the western flank, the main portal at the center, and the tomb to the east, where the dome would have maximum visual impact. This latter is a fine example of the Qaytbay-period masonry dome, carved with arabesques. At least half of the southern façade is a Comité reconstruction.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:171 References: Creswell 1919, 152; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 89; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 326; Meinecke 1992, II:450 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 1–2; BCCMAA 1891, 97; BCCMAA 1892, 28; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 52; BCCMAA 1896, 19–20; BCCMAA 1903, 4–5, 26, 39, 47–48; BCCMAA 1906, 96–97; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 93; BCCMAA 1915–19, 162–64, 321, 399, 404, 416, 450, 458, 464, 472, 518, 559, 585, 617, 695, 697, 764, 773, 802; BCCMAA 1920–24, 100, 154, 255, 258, 301, 303, 360, 372; BCCMAA 1946–53, 56
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(137) Mosque of al-Sukkari Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This Ottoman mosque, known also as the mosque of Map sheet al-Hagg Abu Ghalya, was built immediately in front 8 and 9 of the entrance to the bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (no. 257). It was registered but subsequently demolished early in the twentieth century by the Comité in order to expose the façade of the bimaristan. Photographs in the Comité Bulletins reveal that the mosque had spiral marble columns, some of which now adorn the various open-air archaeological gardens in Cairo (see, for example, U82). Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 316; Hampikian 1991 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 36; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 153; BCCMAA 1911, 106–7; BCCMAA 1920–24, 258
138 Mosque of Mangak al-Yusufi AH 750 / AD 1349 Mangak al-Yusufi was a mamluk of al-Nasir Map sheet Muhammad who rose through the ranks to 8 become wazir and commander-in-chief of the armies. Mangak was a major patron of buildings, and a madrasa that he founded also survives in Jerusalem. It is probable that the Bab al-Wazir in Cairo (close to his mosque) was named after him. He died in AD 1375 and is buried with his wife in the room to the north of the main body of the mosque, which contains a fine inlaid marble mihrab of typical Mamluk design. The entry façade of the complex is approached from Shari‘ al-Mahgar through a bent-entrance gateway with still-intact stone groin vaults. This imposing structure is now so buried in the earth that only the top 1.2 meters of the original door (surrounded by a cushioned voussoir arch) are visible. Parts of the complex to the north of the entrance gateway are derelict, as are the rooms located above it and the block to the left of main portal of the mosque. This is a very simple arch with some ablaq decoration but no inscription. The complex’s beautiful three-tiered minaret is, quite unusually, freestanding; its excellent condition is due to the attention of the Comité. The latter organization may well have reconstructed the façade as well; little of the masonry appears to be original.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 105; Karnouk 1981, 120, 121 and pl. iv.2, vi.3 (minbar); Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 93; Burgoyne 1987, 385–86 (for biography); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 303; Meinecke 1992, II:213 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 8; BCCMAA 1891, 24–25; BCCMAA 1896, 39, 138; BCCMAA 1897, 25, 65; BCCMAA 1898, 9, 135–36; BCCMAA 1899, 66; BCCMAA 1900, 12–13, 26–27, 54–55, 85; BCCMAA 1905, 47; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 113; BCCMAA 1914, 77; BCCMAA 1915–19, 96–97, 399, 403, 432, 446, 464, 493, 585, 773, 800; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 38; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13, 105, 208, 266, 348, 350; BCCMAA 1941–45, 186, 221, 222, 232, 288; BCCMAA 1946–53, 289
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139
(141)
Mausoleum of Yunus al-Dawadar
Ribat of al-Zayni
783 / AD 1382 Yunus, the secretary to Sultan Barquq, died and Map sheet was buried in Syria, although this mausoleum (also 8 referred to in the Bulletins as the tomb of Mousi or Ousi) remains associated with him. Its ribbed stone dome, reminiscent of Central Asian domes, is uniquely elongated among Cairene masonry domes. The dome, the inscription band around its base, and the delicate stone tracery with cupbearer blazons survive in good condition. Half of the façade to the street, however, is missing, and the main inscription band has been sheared off. To the north of the tomb is a substantial outcrop of natural rock, upon which part of the structure was built, no doubt with the intention of increasing its height. A tomb of the same name and date in the northern cemetery (monument no. 157) was constructed as the first tomb of Yunus but was subsequently given to Anas, the father of Sultan Barquq.
AH 856 / AD 1452 Founded by the qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din, this building Map sheet was known also as the mausoleum of Shaykh Abu 26 Talib. The building was demolished in the creation of Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id, and its portal, incorrectly labeled, stood in the garden of the Islamic Museum (U46) until the latter became a building site in 2002. Another foundation of Qadi Yahya (no. 182) still stands nearby to the south at the junction of Shari‘ al-Azhar.
AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 114–15; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 292, 303; Meinecke 1992, II:266–67 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 146 (historical note and classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 125; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804; BCCMAA 1946–53, 22
140 Khanqah of Nizam al-Din AH 757 / AD 1356 Nizam al-Din Ishaq, from Isfahan, was the manager Map sheet of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad’s khanqah in 1 and 8 Siryaqus. The designation of this building as a mosque in the English version of the 1950 Index of Monuments is at variance with the Arabic version, which defines it as a mosque-khanqah; ‘khanqah’ would seem to accord more closely with the visible remains. Some of the cells for Sufis are still apparent: tiny vaulted chambers, each with an individual mihrab in plaster relief. The plan is sufficiently enigmatic as to be susceptible of various interpretations, especially since it would appear that the structure was heavily remodeled for military purposes at some point in its history. The building today gives the appearance of a ruined castle, standing high on a spur of the Muqattam Hills below the Citadel. This appearance is enhanced by gunports at high level (possibly built by the French during their occupation of the city) and machicoulis. The surviving portal has an eroded inscription; a fine piece of pharaonic spolia was reused as a lintel over the doorway.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 143; Meinecke 1977, 139–44; Meinecke 1992, II:183 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 97; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 136; BCCMAA 1913, 55–56; BCCMAA 1915–19, 801; BCCMAA 1946–53, 142–43
Plan: None References: Creswell 1919, 133–34; Meinecke 1992, II:373; Tantawi 1994, 77–79 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1883 (2nd ed.), 26; BCCMAA 1900, 124–25 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1902, 65 (not classified); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 169; BCCMAA 1920–24, 258
142 Mosque of Sulayman Pasha AH 935 / AD 1528 Sulayman Pasha was a white eunuch in the court of Sulayman the Magnificent. He was the governor of Cairo from AD 1524 to 1538, with an interruption of two years (1534–36), during which his position was taken by Khusraw Pasha. He built this mosque to serve the officers of the Janissaries stationed in the Citadel. The site was that of a famous tomb (of Sayyid Sariya [twelfth century AD], originally a Fatimid foundation), which still survives on the complex’s western side, as do several of the officers’ tombs. The mosque itself is the first Ottoman domed mosque in Cairo, and it is set within a garden, as is characteristic of Ottoman mosques. The domes are covered in green tiles, and their interiors are richly painted. There is a typically Mamluk-style marble dado and mihrab, and a stone minbar placed outside the main iwan, inlaid with Iznik tiles. A door in the wall opposite the mihrab leads to an arcaded courtyard, with marble dados and a geometric marble floor, which separates the mosque from the tomb of Sayyid Sariya.
Map sheet 1 and 2
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 286 References: Pauty 1936, 13–14; J. Williams 1969, 458–59; BehrensAbouseif 1987, 158; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 369; BehrensAbouseif 1989, 158; Abdel Alim 1990; Bates 1991, 145–48; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 184–91, 244–48; Lyster 1993, 107; Blair and Bloom 1995: 251; el-Rashidi 1999, 9–13, 50–56 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 52; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 152; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804; BCCMAA 1930–32, 178, 199; BCCMAA 1933–35, 25, 37, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 221, 223, 266
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143 Map sheet
Mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad
AH 735 / AD 1335 Founded by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad in AD 1318 and subsequently enlarged by him, this courtyard mosque has two minarets that face the southern and northern enclosures of the Citadel. Their tiled, bulbous finials are stylistically unique in Egypt; it has been suggested that the craftsmen responsible for the design were from Tabriz. Inside the mosque, most of the walls’ marble revetment was removed by Sultan Selim Yavuz after the Ottoman conquest and taken back to Istanbul. The interior is distinguished by numerous reused columns of different heights; their bases have been adjusted to achieve uniformity. The dome in front of the mihrab and the mihrab’s inlaid marble revetment, together with many parts of the ceiling, are Comité restorations dating to 1935. The ceilings were beautifully coffered with painted blue-and-gold decoration, as can be seen in those sections that survive intact.
9
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:60 References: Casanova 1894–97, I:620–25; Creswell 1919, 93–94; Pauty 1929, 148 (muqarnas); Pauty 1932, 119; Meinecke 1977, 100–17; Karnouk 1981, passim (minbar); Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 93; BehrensAbouseif 1988b, 33, 74; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 370–71; Meinecke 1992, II:122, 167; Lyster 1993, 25, 101–2; Blair and Bloom 1995, 80–81; Rabbat 1995, 45, 59, 64, 225, 263–69; al-Harithy 2000, 228–29; Karim 2002, 44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 61–62; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 67–68, 115; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 135; BCCMAA 1915–19, 317, 318, 635, 648, 764, 767, 768, 801; BCCMAA 1920–24, 175, 358, 360; Pauty 1931b, 164 n. 1; BCCMAA 1941–45, 152, 240, 274, 290, 340; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 49–50, 54–55, 58, 115–17, 159, 162, 195
144 Sabil of Shaykhu AH 755 / AD 1354 This sabil was built by Shaykhu before he became 8 sultan, while he was cup-bearer to Sultan Hasan. His more famous constructions are located nearby in the Shari‘ Saliba (see nos. 152 and 147). Carved out of the rock, and fronted by a built-up stone semi-dome, this combination sabil and hawd is a most unusual structure. Severe erosion of the rock surface and surface salts have destroyed the left-hand half of the inscription band running along the base of the semi-dome. The Comité demolished the city-gate that once stood at this point, named the Bab al-Wada‘a, as it blocked the view of the sabil.
Map sheet
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 144 References: Creswell 1919, 106; Ebeid 1976, 26–41; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 303; Meinecke 1992, II:222 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 122–23 (classification); BCCMAA 1895, 102; BCCMAA 1896, 16, 149; BCCMAA 1898, 23–24 (demolition of blocking gateway); BCCMAA 1899, 124; BCCMAA 1901, 9; BCCMAA 1902, 46–47, 131; BCCMAA 1907, 121; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 46;
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145 Map sheet
Mosque of Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab
AH 1109 / AD 1697 On this site, most of which was occupied by stables during the Mamluk period, stood a zawiya and sabil built by Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh in the AD 1420s, of which some decorative stonework survives. Adjacent to the building was the now-destroyed Bab al-Silsila (‘the Chain Gate’). Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab, who rebuilt the mosque in the seventeenth century, was the katkhuda of the ‘Azaban corps of Janissaries and subsequently ‘Admiral of the Two Seas’ (i.e., the Mediterranean and the Red Sea). He died in 1727 in Istanbul. The mosque has a typical Ottoman minaret, and the prayer hall is roofed with a shallow stone dome—an unusual feature in Cairene mosques.
9
Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 367; Meinecke 1992, II: 328; Lyster 1993, 48, 90 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1903, 69 (classification); BCCMAA 1904, 16, 42, 66; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 123; BCCMAA 1915–19, 127–29, 361, 371, 584, 801; BCCMAA 1941–45, 58, 290, 299
146 Map sheet
Zawiyat al-‘Abbar
AH 683 / AD 1284–85 This building is known also as the khanqah of alBunduqdari and the tomb of the amir Aydakin alBunduqdari. Aydakin was a mamluk of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub and owned, in his turn, as a mamluk the future sultan Baybars. An inscription band on his tomb’s street façade contains at its center the earliest documented example in Egypt of a blazon on a building: the double-bow blazon of the bunduqdar (‘bow-carrier’). The ribbed dome of the tomb (identified by Ibrahim [1976] as the earliest surviving Mamluk ribbed dome) is plastered brick, its interior decorated with two plaster inscription bands: one at the dome’s base and the other at its apex. There is an elaborate transition zone to the dome. The mihrab has a keel-arch hood, with stucco arabesques within framed by small inscription bands that follow the outline of the hood. All other original decoration has disappeared. Beyond the tomb lies a nineteenth-century zawiya with two simple arched arcades on piers. Passing through the ablutions area, there is another tomb very similar in design to that of Aydakin. It, too, has a ribbed dome of brick and plaster, with a stucco inscription band at its base and fine stucco geometric window grilles; the window frames have two inscription bands and surrounding decoration. The high-level plasterwork has been restored, but the complex today is otherwise derelict.
23
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 82; Pauty 1929, 144 (muqarnas); Ibrahim 1976, 9; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 334–35; Meinecke 1992, II:60 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 107–8 (classification); BCCMAA 1909, 44; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 1; BCCMAA 1912, 50, 67, 89; BCC-
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147 Map sheet
Mosque of Shaykhu
AH 750 / AD 1349 Shaykhu was a mamluk of al-Nasir Muhammad and the principal supporter of the young Sultan Hasan, until the mamluk’s assassination in AD 1357. The mosque of Shaykhu predates his khanqah (no. 152), which is located on the opposite side of the street. The mosque’s façade has an intact high-level inscription band; the inscription on the portal is largely disintegrated. The wall to the left of the portal collapsed at some point in the building’s history. The octagonal minaret of the mosque has an unusual reed-type cornice on its intermediate tier rather than the more common muqarnas. The vestibule has small black-glass mirrors set in its walls (perhaps in imitation of the Kaaba) and is flanked by a domed tomb chamber in which an unknown shaykh is buried (the founder’s tomb is located in the khanqah across the street). The ribbed dome is of plastered brick, with an inscription band at its base. The vestibule leads directly into the sahn, which is bordered by two curiously compressed lateral iwans and two larger iwans of two arcades apiece, each supported on antique columns. A secondary entrance from a side street leads into the western iwan. An octagonal fountain occupies the center of the courtyard; an inscribed stone dikka (dated 1555) and a Qaytbay-period stone minbar are situated on the qibla side. The mihrab is unusual for the inlay of Tunisian tiles in its lower part. To the north of the sahn is the ablutions area, with a separate small zawiya, probably added in the nineteenth century.
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Plan: Mostafa 1992, 115 References: Creswell 1919, 105; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Kessler 1969, 259–61; J. Williams 1984, 36; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 93–94; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 360; Meinecke 1992, II: 214; Asfour 2000, 246; Karim 2002, 44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 39; BCCMAA 1901, 90; BCCMAA 1904, 6–7; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 45; BCCMAA 1911, 13; BCCMAA 1912, 11, 25; BCCMAA 1913, 97; BCCMAA 1914, 58, 128; BCCMAA 1915–19, 97–102, 312, 318, 322, 333, 399, 464, 585, 764, 798; BCCMAA 1920–24, 255, 257; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 38, 70; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15, 16, 18, 59; Pauty 1931b, 165 n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 159; BCCMAA 1941–45, 241, 274; BCCMAA 1946–53, 200, 282, 413, 423
148 Map sheet
Mosque of al-Ghuri
AH 909 / AD 1504 Nothing remains of this mosque’s street façade except a small door. The surviving pair of qibla arcades rest on octagonal stone piers, which in the case of the outer arcade have been strengthened with secondary stone arches. The inner arcade is covered by three shallow stone domes; the central dome over the mihrab has an unusual spiral pattern of stonework. The mihrab itself is plain, flanked by the cartouches of al-Ghuri. The outer arcade is roofed by a central shallow stone dome flanked on each side by a decorative groin/fan vault.
16
Meinecke (1992) has an earlier attribution and date for the building, considering it to be the remains of the sabil al-Mu’mini, constructed by the amir Baktimur al-Mu’mini in AD 1369. This sabil differed from others in that it was traditionally a place where corpses were ritually washed prior to burial; this may account for the unusual form of the building but does not explain the absence of any obvious architectural features associated with water. The building was restored by the SCA in 1998. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 156; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 89; Bates 1991, 164; Meinecke 1992, II: 249–50 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, xxvi; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 63; BCCMAA 1911, 70; BCCMAA 1912, 24, 49, 112; BCCMAA 1913, 47; BCCMAA 1914, 77, 107; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802
150 Map sheet
Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan
AH 1131 / AD 1718 The 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments incorrectly numbers this building as no. 230, which is actually the sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada. The building has tile lunettes over the sabil grilles, one of which is bronze and the other wood. The kuttab has been destroyed, but its corbels remain. A mashrabiya overhang projects at mezzanine level from the southern wall of the building, which connects to an adjacent house through a portal with decorative strapwork.
14
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 257 (no. 46) and 265 (no. 68); Raymond 2000 Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], xxiv (with no prior references); BCCMAA 1915–19, 779
151 Map sheet
Mosque of Qanibay al-Muhammadi
AH 816 / AD 1413 The amir Qanibay was viceroy of Damascus; he was executed by Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh in AD 1415 after an abortive rebellion. The tomb chamber, which has a stone dome with chevrons, is located on the eastern side of the building, entered through an uninscribed trilobed muqarnas portal. There is a largely intact inscription band running at high level around the tomb chamber and over the portal. Steel beams inserted at the base of the dome, steel ties at the base of the squinches, and the evident reconstruction of the corner of the building date to 1871. The minaret is unusal in that it sits over the entrance on a triangular base; chevrons on its second tier imitate those of the adjacent dome. A major conservation project was initiated here by the SCA in 2001 and concluded in 2003.
16
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:159 References: Creswell 1919, 154; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 115; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 360; Hamamsy 1992, 48–49; Meinecke 1992, II:317; Jaubert 1995, 194 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 15; BCCMAA 1892, 43; BCC-
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152 Khanqah of Shaykhu
Map sheet 23 and 24
AH 756 / AD 1355 The khanqah built by Shaykhu to complement his mosque across the street (no. 147) also included a tomb for himself, a qa‘a flanking the qibla riwaqs, and an adjacent bathhouse (see U103). The complex was restored in AD 1684 by a eunuch called Bilal Agha, and it is likely that much of the painted decoration on ceilings in the khanqah dates from this period. The entrance portal and façade match that of the mosque opposite; a fine piece of pharaonic spolia has been used as the lintel over the door. Cells for the occupants of the khanqah line the courtyard on two sides, and continue in two blocks to the south, accessed by corridors and a wooden gallery at first- and second-floor levels. It is likely that a connection once existed between this area of the complex and the bathhouse that served it (see U106). The courtyard contains an octagonal fountain pavilion at its center with marble columns and a wooden superstructure. Remains of a painted inscription survive on the south wall, as does a sundial on the western wall and some marble inlay to the floor. The qibla arcades are supported on antique marble or granite columns, as is the simple dikka. A foundation inscription is mounted on the qibla wall. The plain mihrab was originally preceded by two maqsura wooden domes, one of which has collapsed and been replaced by a shukhshaykha. The tomb area is covered by another wooden dome. The domes probably all date to the seventeenth-century restoration, as do the elaborately painted and inscribed ceilings in the qibla arcades. There is also a derelict qa‘a to the right-hand side of the mihrab, where Shaykhu may have participated in rituals with the Sufis of the foundation. The building has been the object of heavy restoration (still ongoing in 2004) since 2001.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 106; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 80; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 93; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 360; Meinecke 1992, II:144; Jaubert 1995, 193; Asfour 2000, 246; O’Kane 2000, 167, 168 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 32; BCCMAA 1895, 39; BCCMAA 1899, 91; BCCMAA 1901, 90; BCCMAA 1905, 81, 110; BCCMAA 1909, 58, 85–86, 109–10, 134–35; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 45; BCCMAA 1911, 16, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 31; BCCMAA 1915–19, 97–102, 798; BCCMAA 1920–24, 23, 50, 94, 97, 146, 157, 359; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15, 17, 38, 70; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15; Pauty 1931b, 165 n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 39, 41, 46, 92; BCCMAA 1946–53, 379, 382, 390, 409–10, 412
153 Map sheet
Mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi
768–78 and 885–94 / AD 1366–77 and 1480–89 This building was originally the main qa‘a of a palace built ca. AD 1366–70 by Tashtamur al-‘Ala’i, the dawadar of Sultan Sha’ban. Its conversion into a mosque was carried out
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by the eunuch Kushqadam, who was the wazir of Qaytbay prior to his disgrace and death in 1489. The lavishly carved minaret that Kushqadam built to the north of the complex survives in good condition, except for its top story; adjacent is a fine stone corbel. A square-headed muqarnas portal, which belonged to the original palace, also survives to the south of the qa‘a, which is separated from it by a much later Ottoman structure with its own doorway onto the street. The mosque itself has a simple trilobed portal; its external wall, constructed of rough stone rubble, is eroded to a height of two and a half meters. There is an inlaid lintel over the original door, which leads to a corridor (with sections of surviving Mamluk painted wood ceilings that include the blazon of Tashtamur) that runs past the entrance to the qa‘a. The qa‘a is a two-iwan structure; the sahn has a modern roof and lantern. Painted wood ceilings survive in the iwans, as do fragments of the wide painted wood inscription band that once ran across the entire space. Some fragments of plaster medallions can also be seen at high level. It is unclear how much of the decoration is original to the construction of Tashtamur and how much is part of the later reworking by Kushqadam. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 111–12; Creswell 1922, 48–49; Pauty 1933b, 46; Lézine 1972b 108–12, 130; Maury et al. 1982, 86; Burgoyne 1987, 462–65 (for biography); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 335–36; Meinecke 1992, II:258; Jaubert 1995, 193; O’Kane 2000, 164, 165, 166, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 3–4; BCCMAA 1891, 105; BCCMAA 1892, 20–21, 54; BCCMAA 1902, 79; BCCMAA 1906, 56–57; BCCMAA 1907, 122; BCCMAA 1908, 18, 77; BCCMAA 1909, 15–16, 25, 59, 137; BCCMAA 1910, 117; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 102; BCCMAA 1909, 159–64; BCCMAA 1911, 101; BCCMAA 1915–19, 88, 733, 800; BCCMAA 1920–24, 25–97; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188
154 Map sheet
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Minaret of Qanibay al-Sharkasi
AH 845 / AD 1441–42 Qanibay was an amir of Sultan Gaqmaq. The lower part of the minaret is in good condition, with a square base and circular second tier with an inscription band. The remainder is missing, however, and the attached mosque, which is built of stone and follows a traditional courtyard plan, appears to be of more recent date. A sabil, presumably contemporaneous with the mosque’s construction, stands to the right of the main entrance.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 129–30; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 154; Meinecke 1992, II:362; Tantawi 1994, 28–30 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 78; BCCMAA 1901, 39, 64; BCCMAA 1902, 104–5; BCCMAA 1908, 37–38; BCCMAA 1909, 62; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 92; BCCMAA 1911, 51, 68; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802; BCCMAA 1941–45, 34, 44, 81, 240
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502, 695, 802; BCCMAA 1946–53, 384
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Zawiya of Mustafa Pasha
1035 / AD 1625 Mustafa Pasha was an Ottoman governor of Cairo in AD 1622 and again from 1623 to 1625. This is a simple stone building, with a flat trilobed entrance portal with strapwork around it, flanked by muqarnas-headed square window bays. There is a modern dikka inside the entrance, and a simple stone mihrab. Faint traces of a painted wood inscription band survive on the cornice to the ceiling, which is otherwise modern. A sabil survives to the north of the zawiya. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 154 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 47; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 131; BCCMAA 1915–19, 801
156 Map sheet
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Minaret of the mosque of al-Baqli
AH 696 / AD 1297 This is the only surviving section of a complex that was built around the tomb of Shaykh ‘Ali al-Baqli. The minaret has a square base with a muqarnas cornice. There appears to be no middle story; instead a mabkhara-type finial rises directly from the base. The adjacent mosque is newly built.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 84–85; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 336; Meinecke 1992, II:83–84 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 110–11 (classification); BCCMAA 1908, 81; BCCMAA 1909, 19; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 29; BCCMAA 1915–19, 796
159 Map sheet
Minaret of the mosque of al-Ghuri
AH 915 / AD 1509 The mosque, one of Sultan al-Ghuri’s lesser-known works, is now located immediately adjacent to the Salah Salim highway. Although the minaret appears to be truncated and missing a central tier, its design is original. The entrance to the mosque is through a simple trilobed portal with an intact inscription, but most of the façade has been refaced, and its crenellations have been replaced. The grilles to the lower and upper windows are all new. The flank wall of the building would also appear to have been rebuilt, and the main structure internally is modern, with a new roof supported on steel beams.
10
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 155–56; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 376; Meinecke 1992, II:463 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 11; BCCMAA 1890, 78; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 63; BCCMAA 1913, 89, 102; BCCMAA 1915–19, 490,
160 Map sheet
10
Mosque of Messih Pasha
AH 983 / AD 1575 The mosque, located immediately adjacent to the Salah Salim highway, was built for Shaykh Nur al-Din al-Qarafi by Messih Pasha, a white eunuch who was governor of Cairo from AD 1574 to 1580. The mosque, entered through a trilobed muqarnas portal, has a fine Ottoman minaret. The interior has four antique columns supporting arches for the roof; most of the internal walls have been refaced with stone. There is a sabil grille to the west of the main portal, separated from the main building by an alleyway. The structures behind the sabil that are shown in plan here have been overbuilt.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 376; Bates 1991: 157–59; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 203–7; el-Rashidi 1999, 22–23, 73–75 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 70–71; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 119; BCCMAA 1915–19, 801
167 Map sheet
Sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Gawish
AH 1042 / AD 1632 Although this sabil is listed under the name ‘Sulayman Shawish,’ the founder of this building appears to be Sulayman Gawish; the building is named the ‘sabil Bab al-Hadid’ in the Description de l’Égypte. It is a typical example of a larger Ottoman sabil-kuttab, with an inlaid marble floor and painted wood ceiling in the sabil.
25
Plan: SCA Archives References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 249 (no. 24); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 285 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 34–35, 52; BCCMAA 1889, 52; BCCMAA 1898, 122; BCCMAA 1899, 90–91; BCCMAA 1900, 26, 60–61; BCCMAA 1902, 77; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 151; BCCMAA 1915–19, 806
169 Map sheet
Mausoleum of Shagarat al-Durr
AH 648 / AD 1250 Shagarat al-Durr (‘Tree of Pearls’) was the wife of Sultan Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub; she reigned briefly as sultana after his death. Her tomb, part of a larger complex that included a madrasa and a hammam (see U113), was reused for the later burial of a fourteenth-/fifteenth-century AD ‘Abbasid khalif. The tomb is a rendered-brick building with a stilted dome, keel-arched openings, and an intact inscription on the northern side. It stands in a separate enclosure some one and a half meters below ground level to the south of an incomplete neo-Mamluk mosque (see U118). The tomb contains fine carved stucco decoration and a famous
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glass mosaic-inlaid mihrab with a stucco keel-arched hood. Plan: Creswell 1959, 137 References: Creswell 1919, 77; Pauty 1929, 144 and pl. iii.9 (muqarnas); Creswell 1959, 136–39; Behrens-Abouseif 1983; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 337; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 91; Meinecke 1992, II:1 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 88–89, 112–18 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1902, 79; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 42; BCCMAA 1915–19, 46, 427, 494, 498, 519, 575, 627, 639, 643, 696, 698, 700, 710, 773, 774, 797; BCCMAA 1920–24, 96–98, 157, 259, 359; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15; BCCMAA 1930–32, 234
(170) Mausoleum of Qurqumas AH 917 / AD 1511 This late Mamluk tomb (familiarly and erroneous18 ly known as the tomb of Badr al-Gamali after the builder of the Fatimid walls) was removed in 1983 from its emplacement immediately contiguous to the entrance gate of the mosque of al-Hakim (no. 15) during the restoration of the latter building by the Bohra Isma‘ili sect. It was rebuilt in the precincts of the funerary complex of Barsbay (monument no. 121) in the northern cemetery. For the purposes of this map it is placed in the category of demolished monuments. Another tomb (in the Bab al-Nasr cemetery) has also been identified as that of Badr al-Gamali with equal incertitude.
Map sheet
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31; Sanders 2004, 124, 129–31 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1910, 103; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 28; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786, 821; BCCMAA 1933–35, 162–63
173 Zawiya of Gulaq Before AH 870 / AD 1466 An inscription band on the entrance portal to this 18 small mosque states that the building was restored in AD 1466 by Qadi Nur al-Din. Some small fragments of fine stone carving are still visible externally, particularly in the muqarnas work above the entrance and windows. Internally, the small prayer-space is fronted by three arches supported on two marble baton pillars. The building is derelict and the surrounding ground level has risen by two meters since the restoration by the Comité at the end of the nineteenth century. A proposal to dismantle and rebuild the zawiya at a higher level is described in SCA 2002. Map sheet
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 136–37; Meinecke 1992, II:391–92 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 39–40; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 80–81; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 49; BCCMAA 1915–19, 787; BCCMAA 1936–40, 59, 64; SCA 2002, 127–30, 378–82
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175 Madrasa and sabil of al-Ashraf Barsbay AH 829 / AD 1425 Barsbay, a mamluk of Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, Map sheet assumed the sultanate in AD 1422 and governed 19 and 20 humanely until his death in 1438. The complex he built on the Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah includes a cruciform madrasa, minaret, sabil-kuttab, and tomb. Barsbay himself is buried in his funerary complex in the northern cemetery (monument no. 121), although various members of his family are interred here. The façade of the complex, covered in distinctive red-and-yellow ablaq masonry, has a continuous high-level inscription band and crenellation. The minaret has a square base with a muqarnas cornice, above which is set a circular second tier and mabkhara. The stone masonry dome, raised on scrolled corners over the tomb chamber, is carved with a chevron pattern. The portal, with a muqarnas hood and ablaq decoration, leads to a vestibule, which also gives access to the sabil. From here, a dog-legged corridor extends to the sahn, dominated by the qibla iwan, which contains an inlaid marble dado and mihrab and a Comité-period painted wood ceiling. The inlaid wood-and-ivory minbar is original. The western iwan retains its original ceiling; the high-level inscription band that runs around the sahn is unusual in providing details of the endowment that was made upon the madrasa. In 2002 a pair of remarkable interlinked circular-plan cisterns was discovered under the sabil of the complex, supported at their centers by monolithic granite columns (see SCA 2002).
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:157 References: Creswell 1919, 123; Kessler 1969, 259–60; J. Williams 1984, 42; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 86; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 254–55; Meinecke 1992, II:337; Denoix et al. 1999, II:3–4; Asfour 2000, 241, 251; Ismail 2000, 185–86; O’Kane 2000, 158 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 9; BCCMAA 1887–88, 9; BCCMAA 1895, 88, 101–2; BCCMAA 1896, 20; BCCMAA 1900, 58–59, 64–65; BCCMAA 1906, 75; BCCMAA 1907, 78–79; BCCMAA 1909, 72, 134; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 33; BCCMAA 1912, 24, 49, 109, 113; BCCMAA 1913, 52, 109, 132; BCCMAA 1915–19, 402, 404, 492, 503, 510, 538, 541, 584, 630, 695, 697, 734, 773, 822; BCCMAA 1920–24, 28, 43, 84, 94, 96, 277, 342, 359–60; BCCMAA 1936–40, 272–74, 375, 379; BCCMAA 1941–45, 240, 292, 309, 345; BCCMAA 1946–53, 141, 298, 347; SCA 2002, 133–35, 419–20
176 Mosque of Qadi Sharaf al-Din AH 717–38 / AD 1317–37 This mosque is a large converted qa‘a, similar to Map sheet those of Tashtamur (no. 153), Shakir ibn Ghanam 20 (no. 96), and Ahmed Bey Kohya (no. 521), originally part of a palace constructed between AD 1317 and 1337 by Muhib al-Din Yayha. It later took the name of the qadi Sharaf al-Din, who converted the qa‘a into a mosque shortly after the construction of the palace was completed. The building’s context changed dramatically in the early twentieth century with the construction of Shari‘ al-Azhar, to which it is
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adjacent. The entrance to the mosque, set back from the road to the west (now out of use), is part of Sharaf al-Din’s work. This is a fine square-headed portal with ablaq and muqarnas, which seems more appropriate for the entrance to a palace than a mosque. The ground level adjacent to the building has risen by two meters, and the mosque is approached by descending a steep flight of stairs. There is a painted wood ceiling in the northern iwan, and a one-meter-wide wood inscription band survives on the northern side of the building. Plan: SCA Archive References: Lézine 1972b, 89–93, 130; Maury et al. 1982, 80–82; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 283; Meinecke 1992, II:178; O’Kane 2000, 164, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 37; BCCMAA 1907, 99–100, 105–6; BCCMAA 1909, 43, 133; BCCMAA 1910, 59; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 44; BCCMAA 1915–19, 85–91 (historical notice), 777; BCCMAA 1920–24, 154, 257, 296, 359; BCCMAA 1941–45, 51, 151, 240; BCCMAA 1946–53, 333; SCA 2002, 91–93
177 Façade of the mosque of Muqbil al-Dawudi 798 / AD 1395 Muqbil al-Dawudi (known also as al-Rumi) was a Map sheet eunuch to sultans Barquq and Farag ibn Barquq; he was 20 both keeper of the harim and head eunuch in Medina. All that remains of the original foundation are the western and southern façades: the interior of the mosque is modern. The southern façade has two inset stone bays; the western façade has two fine inscriptions and a portal with muqarnas decoration. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 117; Mostafa 1982, 101–2; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 283; Meinecke 1992, II:286 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 65 (classification of door only); BCCMAA 1898, 77, 135; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 125; BCCMAA 1915–19, 781
178 Mosque of al-Gamali Yusuf ca. AH 845 / AD 1441–42 The building is known also as the madrasat alMap sheet Sahibiya after the founder, Sahib Yusuf ibn ‘Abd al27 Karim. The entrance is through a trilobed stone portal with two square inlaid kufic panels and one naskhi inscription. The interior appears to have been refurbished during the Muhammad ‘Ali period with heavily decorated wooden ceilings. The courtyard, which may originally have been open, has also been enclosed by a similarly decorated ceiling with a lantern. The mihrab has a stucco hood, however, that must be contemporary with the building’s foundation.
179 Sabil-kuttab of al-Kirdani Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This listing includes not only the sabil-kuttab itself Map sheet but also the façade and portal of the wikala (known 19 also as the wikala of Abu Takiya) to which the sabil-kuttab is attached. The sabil, situated on the northern end of the wikala, has lost its kuttab, although it retains a large decorated stone portal. The wikala seems to be composed of two courtyards, whose peripheral arches can barely be discerned among later accretions, which are occupied by metal-working trades. The entrance to the wikala is directly opposite the wikalat al-Muhammadayn (no. 597); the character of the masonry suggests that the two buildings had the same patron. Hanna (1998) has posited that the two wikalas were built by the seventeenth-century merchant Isma‘il Abu Takiya and his partner ‘Abd al-Qadir al-Damiri, and she identifies the wikala attached to the sabil-kuttab al-Kirdani as the wikalat al-Kubra (‘the Larger’), and the wikalat al-Muhammadayn (no. 597) as the wikalat al-Sughra (‘the Smaller’). Plan: École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987, 31 References: Pauty 1936, 23; Scharabi 1978, 162; Raymond 1979a, 286 (no. 125); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 261 (no. 6); École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987; Hanna 1998, 127–30; Denoix et al. 1999, II:61–62 Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], xl (with no prior references); BCCMAA 1915–19, 490; BCCMAA 1933–35, 125, 127
180 Mosque and sabil of Muhammad Sai‘d Gaqmaq AH 855 / AD 1451 Gaqmaq served Farag ibn Barquq, al-Mu’ayyad Map sheet Shaykh, and Barsbay before he became sultan him27 self in AD 1438. The main portal on the eastern façade of his foundation has an inscription band, and the minaret survives in its entirety. The adjacent sabil-kuttab has lost its second story. A bent entrance leads to an open court flanked by four iwans. The whole building has been recently and rather unsympathetically restored.
Plan: SCA Archive. References: Creswell 1919, 133; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 282–83; Meinecke 1992, II:372; Tantawi 1994, 86–91; O’Kane 2000, 158 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 93; BCCMAA 1892, 113–14; BCCMAA 1896, 40, 131–32; BCCMAA 1902, 98–99; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 48; BCCMAA 1914, 103; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1920–24, 29, 96; BCCMAA 1933–35, 228; BCCMAA 1946–53, 347
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 107–8; Meinecke 1992, II:362; Tantawi 1994, 40–45; O’Kane 2000, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 91; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 58; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1936–40, 104, 121, 124, 131–32, 212, 214, 216–17, 266, 294, 297
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184
Mosque of Murad Pasha
Mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri
986 / AD 1578 This mosque’s principal façade, facing Shari‘ Bur Map sheet Sa‘id, has two trilobed portals separated by three 27 recessed window bays. The northern portal, elaborated with muqarnas, was the mosque’s principal entrance (now closed), while that to the south, leading to the ablutions area, is plain. A minaret of typical Ottoman design used to stand above the southern portal; it was taken down by the Comité and never rebuilt. The interior of the mosque has four marble columns supporting the roof (at the center of which is a malqaf) and a stone mihrab with arabesque carving at its top.
AH 821 / AD 1418 This mosque was built in AD 1418 for a wazir of Map sheet Sultan Farag ibn Barquq and al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh 27 who was notorious for his harsh methods of tax collection. It is colloqially known as ‘the Mosque of the Girls’ (al-banat). The main portal faces onto Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id and has a sabil-kuttab to the south. A second, more modest entrance is from a dead-end alley off the Darb al-Gamamiz. The main portal leads through a bent corridor into a courtyard with four iwans. The ceilings of the qibla and western iwans are Comité-period decorated ceilings; the other two are original. The building was restored in the nineteenth century by Umm Husayn (see U36), who added the Ottoman-style minaret, and again most recently (in 2000) by the SCA.
AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Jaubert 1995, 196; el-Rashidi 1999, 23, 75 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 32, 45; BCCMAA 1884, 3; BCCMAA 1903, 14–15; BCCMAA 1909, 9; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 129; BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; BCCMAA 1936–40, 209–10, 266; SCA 2002, 182
182 Mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din AH 848 / AD 1444 Qadi Yahya was a civilian amir who became the Map sheet chief steward of Sultan Gaqmaq. An unusually 27 rapacious tax-gatherer, he was subsequently flogged to death by Sultan Qaytbay. Yahya chose to be buried in this mosque, one of three that he built in Cairo (see also no. 204). The building was originally situated within an urban block beside the Khalig al-Masri, which ran its eastern side. The building was heavily restored by the Comité from 1884 to 1897, during which the entire southern façade and part of the northern façade were created, following the removal of adjacent structures. The western façade was later ‘embellished’ by the addition of a nineteenth-century sabil, moved from a nearby location (see U36). The main entrance is through an inscribed portal at the north that leads through a dog-legged approach into a covered four-iwan madrasa. The madrasa has lost most of the stone inscription that once ran along its walls; the minaret survives intact.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:58 References: Creswell 1919, 130; Pauty 1929, 152 and pl. viii.33 (muqarnas); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 282 and 405; Meinecke 1992, II:364–65; Tantawi 1994, 50–60; Asfour 2000, 254–55 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 12–13; BCCMAA 1887–88, 50; BCCMAA 1889, 117 (with plan); BCCMAA 1894, 55–56, 93, 102, 120–21; BCCMAA 1895, 16, 27–28, 31; BCCMAA 1896, 164, 179; BCCMAA 1897, 26, 57, 113, 151; BCCMAA 1898, 10; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 163; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1930–32, 42, 63; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 38, 103, 107; BCCMAA 1936–40, 69, 103, 266
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Plan: Kessler 1971 and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 122; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 281; Meinecke 1992, II:325 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 56, 80, 92–93, 102–03, 119–20; BCCMAA 1895, 29, 33, 71, 87, 99; BCCMAA 1896, 23–24, 131, 141, 167, 182; BCCMAA 1897, 25, 57–58; BCCMAA 1899, 97–98; BCCMAA 1905, 110; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 29; BCCMAA 1915–19, 775, 817; BCCMAA 1920–24, 255, 258; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13; BCCMAA 1946–53, 296
185 Mosque of Asanbugha AH 772 / AD 1370 Asanbugha (‘Strong Bull’, d. AD 1375) was an amir Map sheet of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad; he was imprisoned 27 after al-Nasir’s death but later became governor of Aleppo and controller of the armies. His complex was heavily restored by the Comité in the late nineteenth century, especially the sabil-kuttab. The wooden screen to the sabil and the mashrabiya on the kuttab all date from this restoration. The remainder of the façade, with a high-level inscription band and minaret, is intact. The interior of the mosque is spartan and modern, the only original fragment being a springing of the arch of the western iwan.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 113; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 105; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 281; Mustafa 1989, 38; Meinecke 1992, II:250 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 104; BCCMAA 1892, 112–13; BCCMAA 1894, 113–14, 151; BCCMAA 1895, 19, 29, 38–39, 43, 49, 74, 77; BCCMAA 1897, 20–21, 58; BCCMAA 1898, 117; BCCMAA 1902, 120; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 24; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
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(186) Madrasa of Muhammad Abu’l Fadl AH 689 / AD 1290 This Shafi‘i madrasa, known also under the name Map sheet Fadl Allah, was located immediately adjacent to the 27 mausoleum of Husam al-Din al-Turuntay (no. 590), with which it was jointly registered. The madrasa was subsequently deregistered in 1932 and the tomb given an independent listing and new number. A modern mosque stands in its place today, although sparse remains of the madrasa’s brick walls are visible to the south.
Plan: None References: Creswell 1919, 83; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 281–82; Meinecke 1992, II:70 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 31 (not registered); BCCMAA 1908, 35; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 53; BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1920–24, 146; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33 (declassification)
187 Complex of Sultan Barquq AH 786–88 / AD 1384–86 This major complex, built by al-Zahir Barquq, the Map sheet first Burgi Mamluk sultan of Egypt, includes a cru19 ciform madrasa, a mausoleum, and a khanqah for 125 students. Barquq himself was re-interred in the northern cemetery in the khanqah built by his son Farag some years later (monument no. 149). The complex on the Bayn al-Qasrayn is a masterpiece of integrated design and decorative detailing. The crenellated façade has recessed window panels with muqarnas heads and a high-level inscription band. At the complex’s northern end stands the tomb chamber, the dome of which is a late nineteenth-century brick replacement for a plastered wood original that had collapsed. The minaret that rises adjacent to this is unusual in being heavily carved and patterned, the second tier bearing a motif of intersecting circles with inlaid marble. The portal has a semi-dome (supported by muqarnas pendentives), ablaq decoration, and a fine marble inscription. This leads through a groin-vaulted vestibule to a bent entrance that gives access to the sahn. The floors of the madrasa are paved with geometric patterns of colored marble. A fountain occupies the center of the sahn, with a wooden dome above it supported on marble columns, and an inscription band runs at high level above the pointed-arched iwans that define the space. On the qibla side, pairs of granite columns stand to either side of the central axis within the iwan, creating a tripartite space. An inlaid marble dado and mihrab, together with an elaborately decorated and gilded wooden ceiling, gives this iwan a particularly rich appearance. Liturgical furniture includes a fine minbar (a later endowment by Sultan Gaqmaq) and a wooden dikka. The tomb chamber matches the qibla iwan in the lavish use of marble decoration. To the west are located the students’ living units, which are largely ruined today and occupied by squatters.
Plan: Mostafa 1982, pl. 9
References: Creswell 1919, 116; Pauty 1929, 148 and pl. vi.23 (muqarnas); Rogers 1976; Mostafa 1982; J. Williams 1984, 41; Behrens-Abouseif 1985, 81–85; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 110; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 133–35; 110; Tuscherer 1991, 324; Meinecke 1992, II:269–70; Sayyid 1998, 302 and n. 2; Denoix et al. 1999: II:25; O’Kane 2000, 168 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 2; BCCMAA 1889, 85–86, 101–6; BCCMAA 1890, 115–16, 121, 127–28; BCCMAA 1891, 38, 40, 42, 59; BCCMAA 1892, 82–83, 91–92, 105, 112; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 31, 35–36, 52–53, 72, 81; BCCMAA 1894, 92, 114; BCCMAA 1895, 15, 32, 40, 47, 95; BCCMAA 1896, 58, 95–96, 163, 176; BCCMAA 1897, 21–22, 62, 81–82; BCCMAA 1898, 24; BCCMAA 1903, 38, 52, 69; BCCMAA 1904, 58–59; BCCMAA 1905, 109–10; BCCMAA 1906, 89; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 30; BCCMAA 1911, 76; BCCMAA 1915–19, 821–22; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16–17, 22; BCCMAA 1930–32, 177, 191, 200, 231–32; BCCMAA 1936–40, 131–33; BCCMAA 1941–45, 363; BCCMAA 1946–53, 297; SCA 2002, 159–62
188 Wikala of Taghribardi Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD Although this wikala shares the name of the adja19 cent mosque (no. 42), it is known also (after an earlier founder) as the wikala of al-Amir. The precise date of the building’s construction is unknown; a funduq has stood on this site since the Mamluk period. A fine square door with extravagantly decorated muqarnas corbels to either side leads into a groin-vaulted passageway that once connected to the courtyard of the wikala, the structure of which has largely been destroyed or overbuilt. Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey (portal only) References: Scharabi 1978, 161; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 263 (no. 25); Denoix et al. 1999, II:57–58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 95–96; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 144; BCCMAA 1915–19, 792; SCA 2002, 193–94
189 Mosque of al-Ghuri and house to the north AH 909–10 / AD 1504–5 This is a cruciform madrasa, built above a remarkMap sheet ably dense complex of shop units and internal 20 streets. It has an unusual square minaret with three tiers and a fine decorated ablaq portal. An inscription band runs above the window recesses at high level. The upper stories of the building contain cells for Sufi students. This foundation of Sultan al-Ghuri constitutes one half of an architectural ensemble that straddles the Qasaba: the counterpart structure, on the eastern side of the street, includes his mausoleum and a sabil-kuttab (see no. 67 above). The interior of the mosque follows a cruciform plan, with the iwans fronted by large pointed arches. The decorative treatment of all surfaces is lavish: particularly noteworthy is the deep muqarnas band that runs along the top of the sahn. A cycle of restoration at the mosque, undertaken by the SCA, was completed in 2000. The house to the north of the madrasa included in this listing was substantially demolished
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by the creation of Shari‘ al-Azhar; what remains is disfigured by modern shop fronts. Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:167 References: Creswell 1919, 152; Pauty 1933b, 79 (no. 19) (house); Mehrez 1972; Aalund 1980, 40; J. Williams 1984, 43; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 149–52; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinecke 1992, II:452; Asfour 2000, 247–48; O’Kane 2000, 160, 173 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 50–51; BCCMAA 1884, 18; BCCMAA 1885, 17–18, 27–28; BCCMAA 1898, 115–16; BCCMAA 1899, 21–22, 70, 96, 106–7, 112–13; BCCMAA 1900, 81; BCCMAA 1901, 77, 93, 114 (house), 126; BCCMAA 1902, 47, 77, 116; BCCMAA 1903, 26; BCCMAA 1904, 31, 44; BCCMAA 1905, 34–35, 54; BCCMAA 1906, 89–90, 109; BCCMAA 1907, 9 (house), 33, 90 (house); BCCMAA 1909, 32; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 62; BCCMAA 1911, 36, 66; BCCMAA 1912, 42, 54; BCCMAA 1913, 33; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782, 826; BCCMAA 1930–32, 32, 71, 191, 200; BCCMAA 1933–35, 103, 107, 126–27, 229; BCCMAA 1936–40, 103, 326; BCCMAA 1946–53, 145, 201, 283; el-Zaher and el-Ela 1995
190 Mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh AH 823 / AD 1420 Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh built this mosque in Map sheet fulfillment of a vow he made while incarcerated in 20 and 21 the notorious prison that previously occupied the site. This is an enormous courtyard mosque, elevated above shops, with the main doors taken from the madrasa of Sultan Hasan (no. 133). The walls at the north, south, and west were rebuilt by the Ministry of Endowments in 1874. The towering portal, with ablaq masonry, granite door jambs, and inlaid inscriptions, stands on the eastern side of the building. Of the three minarets originally constructed for the mosque, only the two on top of the Bab Zuwayla (no. 199) survive, inscribed with the name of their architect. The original route into the mosque was probably from the vestibule through the northern corridor, but visitors proceed today directly to the qibla arcades from a door on the southern side of the vestibule through the domed tomb chamber of the sultan. The outermost arcade was rebuilt in 1874 after its collapse and is distinguished by its plain ceiling, unlike the heavily painted ceilings of the other original arcades. An original inscribed marble dikka stands in the center of the outermost original arcade. The qibla wall and mihrab are magnificent examples of inlaid marble technique. Some Ottoman tiles also survive at the southern end of this wall at high level. The inlaid and carved woodwork on the original minbar and doors to the tomb chambers is of a similarly high standard. The dome over the southern tomb chamber, intended for the female members of the sultan’s family, may never have been completed, and this space now has a flat timber roof. A staircase constructed by the Comité outside the southeastern corner of the mosque leads up to the platform of the Bab Zuwayla. The mosque’s twin minarets (their finials are Comité restorations) stand atop the two flanking towers of the Fatimid gate, with their supporting structure passing through the lower level of the towers. The courtyard of the mosque
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contains a domed ablution fountain; this is not an original feature, as the area would have been simply paved in Mamluk times. To the west of the courtyard is the complex’s bathhouse (no. 410). A major project to restore the mosque and rebuild the southern, northern and western arcades was initiated in 2000. During the course of this work, excavations revealed the foundation of the Fatimid city wall within the mosque (indicated on the map sheet in dashed lines). This has subsequently been covered over. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 188 (for mosque); plan of Fatimid wall, courtesy N. Hampikian References: Artin Pacha 1884; Creswell 1919, 120–21; Pauty 1929, 148 and pl. vi.21 (muqarnas); Hanna 1984, 4; J. Williams 1984, 42; Swelim 1986; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988: 270–74; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 137–38; Hamamsy 1992, 56–57; Meinecke 1992, II:319, 342; Blair and Bloom 1995, 88–89; Seton-Watson 2000, 27–36 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 1–2; BCCMAA 1889, 117–18; BCCMAA 1890, 69–77 (with plan and details), 105, 115, 117–18; BCCMAA 1891, 22–23, 38–39, 40, 42, 52, 91; BCCMAA 1892, 56, 74, 80, 104–5; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 34, 113; BCCMAA 1894, 37, 86–87, 104, 148; BCCMAA 1895, 94, 100; BCCMAA 1896, 146, 151–52; BCCMAA 1897, 109, 116; BCCMAA 1898, 121–22; BCCMAA 1902, 16–17, 112–13; BCCMAA 1903, 62–63; BCCMAA 1907, 121; BCCMAA 1908, 50; BCCMAA 1909, 33, 61, 149–50; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 127; BCCMAA 1911, 36; BCCMAA 1912, 4, 55; BCCMAA 1913, 69; BCCMAA 1914, 72, 91, 99, 139; BCCMAA 1915–19, 458, 490, 630, 715, 729, 763, 781; BCCMAA 1920–24, 23, 28, 42–43, 257, 261, 339, 360; BCCMAA 1933–35, 188, 190, 265–66; BCCMAA 1936–40, 326, 336, 338; BCCMAA 1941–45, 26, 32; BCCMAA 1946–53, 77, 145, 147, 201, 339–40, 371, 381, 413, 422; Ormos 2002, 132–33; SCA 2002, 98–100, 231–48; C. Williams 2002, 463
191 Mausoleum of Baybars al-Khayyat AH 920–21 / AD 1515 Baybars al-Khayyat fought for Sultan al-Ghuri Map sheet against the Ottomans, by whom he was taken 20 prisoner. The tomb chamber is the only original part of the complex; the remainder, including a madrasa, was totally rebuilt by the Comité in 1896. The carved chevron stone dome over the tomb has an inscription band running along its base. The tomb chamber retains its original inlaid marble mihrab and a bitumen-inlaid inscription band, but both are in bad condition.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 157; Meinecke 1992, II:470 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed), 22, 33, 47; BCCMAA 1885, 18–19; BCCMAA 1889, 111; BCCMAA 1902, 49; BCCMAA 1905, 36; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 38; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1946–53, 145
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195
Zawiya of Fayruz
Mosque of al-Mar’a (Fatima Shaqra)
830 / AD 1426 Fayruz (‘Turquoise’) was a Circassian eunuch who Map sheet served sultans al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh, Barsbay, and 27 Gaqmaq. His small zawiya has many fine decorative details, including decorated wooden ceilings. The portal’s inscription bands—two inlaid kufic and one naskhi—are intact; a double inscription is situated above the hood of the mihrab. A ribbed dome (of plastered brick) over the tomb survives in good condition. The window niches in the western iwan have muqarnas hoods.
AH 873 / AD 1468 ‘The Mosque of the Women’ is known also by the Map sheet name of the mother of a Mamluk amir: Fatima 28 Shaqra—an unfounded tradition. The only Mamluk elements of the mosque that survive are the portal (whose inscription has been effaced) and the mihrab. The rest of the mosque’s interior and the minaret are Ottoman additions. The mosque’s exterior has been heavily scaffolded since the 1992 earthquake, awaiting restoration.
AH
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 124; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 280; Meinecke 1992, II:342 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 20–21; BCCMAA 1891, 39; BCCMAA 1905, 66–67, 85; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 55; BCCMAA 1912, 88; BCCMAA 1913, 35; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1920–24, 157, 255–56, 259, 299, 359, 366; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15, 30; BCCMAA 1936–40, 65–66; BCCMAA 1946–53, 295
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Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 276; Meinecke 1992, II:397; Asfour 2000, 255 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 16–17; BCCMAA 1889, 67–68, 82–83; BCCMAA 1898, 77; BCCMAA 1903, 39; BCCMAA 1905, 49; BCCMAA 1907, 19; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 114; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1936–40, 226, 333; BCCMAA 1941–45, 241
196 Mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin
AH 1080 / AD 1669–70 This small courtyard mosque with a sabil on its Map sheet southwestern corner was built by Muhammad 27 Katkhuda Mustahfizan. The interior (restored in 1913), entered through a trilobed portal on the eastern façade, has an unusual plan. The roofs are supported on five antique columns (one of black porphyry, two of granite, and two of marble). The minaret survives but has lost its final tier.
AH 1035 / AD 1625 This mosque was originally built on the Khalig alMap sheet Masri; this may account for the presence of the 28 large mashrabiya on the western façade, which would have overlooked the canal. The Comité added a copy of the sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda (no. 21) to the façade facing the Islamic Museum; the sabil-kuttab on the eastern façade is original to the complex and is noteworthy for its fine painted wood ceiling. The main trilobed portal on the eastern façade has two inscriptions; the Ottoman-style minaret is intact. The building was restored by the SCA in 1999.
Plan: After SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 11; Raymond 1979a, 254 (no. 39) (sabil); el-Rashidi 1999, 34, 94 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 31; BCCMAA 1901, 114 (classification of sabil); BCCMAA 1906, 98 (classification of mosque); BCCMAA 1909, 49; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 15; BCCMAA 1915–19, 778; BCCMAA 1933–35, 307, 330
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23 (sabil); Raymond 1979a, 246–47 (no. 17); Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 163; el-Rashidi 1999, 86–89 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 120; BCCMAA 1896, 127; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 166; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1930–32, 69, 216; BCCMAA 1933–35, 206, 228; BCCMAA 1936–40, 2, 6, 56, 104, 216, 218
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197
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Baqi Khayr al-Din
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati
Mosque of Aqsunqur al-Fariqani al-Habashli
Map sheet
27
AH 1088 / AD 1677 This is an Ottoman sabil-kuttab with highly decorated stone façades inlaid with marble panels and inscriptions, and a trilobed portal. The sabil retains its original bronze grilles, but the building is derelict.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 256 (no. 43) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 106–7 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 2; BCCMAA 1915–19, 775
AH 1122 / AD 1710 This is a highly decorative Ottoman sabil-kuttab, with Map sheet carved stone roundels on its façade. One original 27 bronze grille to the sabil, fragments of the salsabil emplacement, and a coffered, painted timber ceiling survive, as does the kuttab above. The room to the east, housing the water distribution system, is intact. An unfinished ancient marble capital adorns the column that supports the arches of the kuttab.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 262 (no. 60) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1909, 110; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 17; BCCMAA 1911, 68; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776, 819; BCCMAA 1920–24, 359
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200
Sabil in the waqf of Hebaysh
Mosque of Malika Safiya
Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD The location of the sabil on the corner of the rab‘ Map sheet of Sultan Barsbay that gives the name to the 28 street—Taht al-Rab‘—and the presence of a carved panther on the façade would seem to indicate that this building may be an eighteenth-century reuse of part of the original Mamluk complex that stood on this site. The upper story (part of the rab‘) has disappeared, leaving the first-floor corbels in situ.
AH 1019 / AD 1610 This mosque was built by ‘Uthman Agha, the chief Map sheet black eunuch of Malika Safiya (Sophia), the 21 and 28 Venetian wife of Sultan Murad III and mother of Mehmed III. Safiya managed to appropriate all of ‘Uthman’s property after his death. The mosque is raised high off the ground and is approached by large semicircular stairs on three sides. These entrances lead to a columned forecourt, with domes around its perimeter, that precedes a domed prayer hall. The mihrab is lined with a Mamluk-style marble revetment, and the minbar is constructed of marble. A wooden gallery sits above the western entrance wall; another runs along the base of the dome. The subsidiary dome to the northeast does not seem to cover a tomb as one might expect. The minaret is intact, although the mosque has lost the garden that once surrounded it (see no. 330).
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Meinecke 1973, 217 and no. 32; Raymond 1979a, 285 (no. 122) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 26; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 75; BCCMAA 1915–19, 778
199 Bab Zuwayla AH 485 / AD 1092 The Bab Zuwayla marks the southern boundary of Map sheet the walled enclosure of al-Qahira constructed by 21 Badr al-Gamali. The most complete description of its architecture can be found in Creswell (1952). It comprises two large round-fronted towers that are surmounted by the twin minarets of the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (no. 190). The current access to the upper and lower platforms of the gate is from a staircase to the west of the gate, and is a construction of the Comité. The original access, now blocked, lies to the east of the gate, and was within the thickness of the curtain wall, which can be seen from the upper platform. The gate was heavily restored by the Comité, and it was cleaned and restored from 1999 to 2003 (together with the minarets of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh) by the EAP. Recent excavations have revealed the level of the Fatimid pavement below the gate’s entrance to be some three meters below ground level.
Plan: Creswell 1952, 198 (for the Bab Zuwayla) and fig. 102 (for the Fatimid wall to the east of the Bab Zuwayla). References: Artin Pacha 1884; Creswell 1919, 56–57; Creswell 1952, 196–201, 205–6; Meinecke 1992, II:414; ARCE/EAP 1995; Bierman 1998, 73, 103, 141; Sayyid 1998, 424–30; Seton-Watson 2000, 24–26 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.) 33, 39–40; BCCMAA 1889, 65–66; BCCMAA 1890, 96; BCCMAA 1892, 68–69; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 74; BCCMAA 1894, 45–46, 79; BCCMAA 1897, appendix x–xii; BCCMAA 1899, 44, 54, 76; BCCMAA 1901, 46, 59; BCCMAA 1902, 18; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 170; BCCMAA 1915–19, 511, 531, 647, 715, 745, 773, 784; BCCMAA 1920–24, 70, 77 97, 231; BCCMAA 1930–32, 176; BCCMAA 1936–40, 82, 278, 326, 336, 338; BCCMAA 1941–45, 32, 81, 241, 291, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 75–76, 139, 198, 281; ARCE/EAP 2004a
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Plan: Mostafa 1992, 303 References: Pauty 1936, 16–18; J. Williams 1969, 458–59 and app. B (462–64); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 229–30; Bates 1991, 159–61; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 162; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 208–11, 253–57; el-Rashidi 1999, 76–82 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 41; BCCMAA 1887–88, 17–18; BCCMAA 1889, 107; BCCMAA 1890, 67–68, 90; BCCMAA 1892, 81; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 87; BCCMAA 1896, 39, 55, 119; BCCMAA 1899, 67; BCCMAA 1908, 16–17, 57; BCCMAA 1910, 59; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 142; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 83; BCCMAA 1913, 33, 52; BCCMAA 1915–19, 177–81, 613, 615, 627, 697, 708, 712, 745, 764, 773–74, 783; BCCMAA 1920–24, 95, 151, 157, 176, 255, 258, 356, 359–60; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15, 17, 50, 116; BCCMAA 1930–32, 8; BCCMAA 1946–53, 141
201 Mosque of al-Burdayni AH 1025–38 / AD 1616–29 This extremely ornate little Ottoman mosque is Map sheet built and decorated entirely in the Mamluk style, 21 with fine marblework and painted wood ceilings. An elaborately decorated minaret stands to the west. Construction was begun by Karim al-Din Burdayni, whose name the mosque bears, but the building was finished in AD 1694 by another patron. The mosque was restored by the SCA in 1998.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 307 References: Pauty 1936, 11; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 163–64; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 243–44; el-Rashidi 1999, 82–86 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 14; BCCMAA 1906, 89–90; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 40; BCCMAA 1913, 32; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777, 823
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202 Remains of the mosque of Qawsun AH 730 / AD 1330 Most of this large courtyard mosque, built by Map sheet Qawsun, the great amir of al-Nasir Muhammad, 22 was demolished during the construction of Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali between 1845 and 1870. Some of its stucco windows in the perimeter wall, of intricate and varied design, survive, as does the northern gate—a simple stone arch. The courtyard is full of weeds and evidently flooded, with no visible remains of columns, arcades, or other structures. Most of the area of the original mosque was built over by a new mosque (U62) and apartment blocks. At some distance to the east, on the Shari‘ al-Surugiya, stands a portal (no. 224) that may have been another entrance to the mosque.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:60 (for reconstruction) References: Creswell 1919, 95; Meinecke 1977, 89–97; J. Williams 1984, 36; Meinecke 1992, II:155; al-Harithy 2000, 229–30; Karim 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 78; BCCMAA 1910, 71–72, 149–55 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 107; BCCMAA 1910, 149–55; BCCMAA 1915–19, 402, 764, 782
203 Zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq AH 811 / AD 1408 The building was moved in 1924 by the Comité from Map sheet its original emplacement directly fronting Bab 21 Zuwayla to accommodate the widening of the Darb al-Ahmar, and raised above contemporary ground level. A substantial section of the portal was added at the time. The building probably had a kuttab originally, but nothing of it survives. The façades and the interiors are highly decorated, with a particularly remarkable wooden muqarnas ceiling to the sabil room. In 2004, the building was still under restoration by the EAP.
Plan: Mostafa 1972, pl. 6 References: Creswell 1919, 119; Mostafa 1972; Mostafa 1989, 33–42; Meinecke 1992, II:308–9; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 188; Seton-Watson 2000, 37–44 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 40–41; BCCMAA 1895, 27; BCCMAA 1904, 44; BCCMAA 1906, 74; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 53; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 83; BCCMAA 1913, 52; BCCMAA 1915–19, 578, 647, 700, 777; BCCMAA 1920–24, 145, 154, 231–32, 255, 258, 274, 397–406 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 38, 158, 172, 179–80
204 Mosque of Qadi Yahya AH 856 / AD 1452 The portal inscription describes this building as a Map sheet ribat, or hospice for the poor: an unusual building 29 type for Cairo. It was built by the same Qadi Yahya who built a mosque (no. 182) some distance to the north on the edge of the Khalig al-Masri and another mosque in Bulaq (monument no. 334). The building’s sahn is surround-
ed by columns of different heights and different materials on marble bases. There are many inscriptions in the area of the mihrab, which has a decorated hood. Over the mihrab is a maqsura dome of wood-lined brick, externally plastered. The mosque is approached through a trilobed portal that has lost most of its original decoration. Above this rises a minaret, with a lower tier of carved stone and an intermediate tier of plastered timber; the minaret’s finial is missing. To the side of the portal is a kuttab. The complex was restored by the Comité in 1905 and again by the SCA in 1998–99. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 131–32; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 125; Meinecke 1992, II:374; Tantawi 1994, 69–76 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 7–8; BCCMAA 1900, 87–88; BCCMAA 1903, 5, 64, 80; BCCMAA 1905, 37–38, 47–48, 80; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 162; BCCMAA 1911, 37, 60; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 83; BCCMAA 1914, 154; BCCMAA 1915–19, 403, 433, 446, 464, 585, 784; BCCMAA 1920–24, 23, 45, 94, 98, 154, 257, 280, 339, 360; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188
205 Minaret and door of the mosque of Bashtak AH 736 / AD 1336 The minaret and door of the original mosque of the Map sheet amir Bashtak—the builder of a surviving palace 29 (no. 34) and bathhouse (no. 244)—have been incorporated into the structure of a nineteenthcentury mosque (U69). The portal of the original mosque has an extraordinarily deep horizontal muqarnas soffit. Of the two inscriptions that survive, the lower one is badly damaged and nearly illegible. A spiral stair leading to roof level is set within the solid masonry to one side of the portal, while the other side provides the base for the minaret itself. All three tiers of the stone-balustraded minaret are intact.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 98; J. Williams 1984, 36; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 81–84; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 345; Meinecke 1992, II:173 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, 66 (classification); BCCMAA 1910, 121; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 35; BCCMAA 1915–19, 793; BCCMAA 1946–53, 308, 311, 402, 405
206 Mosque of Qaraqoga al-Hasani AH 845 / AD 1441–42 This small cruciform mosque is distinguished by its Map sheet entirely freestanding minaret, approached by a 30 bridge at roof level. The entrance is on the western façade through a deeply recessed, square muqarnas portal with inlaid marble geometric kufic panels. Above the portal on projecting corbels is an Ottoman painted wood ceiling. This projection once supported a brick room above, which has now collapsed. The sahn of the mosque appears to have been enclosed by the Comité; it now has a corrugated-iron roof lantern. There is an inscription band around the sahn at a high
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level. Ottoman-style painted wood ceilings with bands of inscriptions (Qur’anic extracts) survive inside the western and qibla iwans; the inscription to the left-hand side of the mosque’s portal is heavily eroded. The qibla iwan is framed by a horseshoe arch; that opposite has a wooden kurdi. The lateral iwans are fronted by pointed arches. The mihrab is a simple stone design. O’Kane (2000) dates the mosque’s extensive restoration to 1874–75 (that is, prior to the Comité). Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 129; Tantawi 1994, 31–39; Meinecke 1992, II:363; Fernandes 2000, 214; O’Kane 2000, 159, 160, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 97–98; BCCMAA 1896, 42; BCCMAA 1905, 82; BCCMAA 1906, 5–6, 90; BCCMAA 1907, 10–11; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 95; BCCMAA 1915–19, 134–39, 321, 404, 585, 795; BCCMAA 1920–24, 95, 258; BCCMAA 1927–29, 188; BCCMAA 1946–53, 204
207 Façade and minaret of the mosque of Mughalbay Taz AH 871 / AD 1466 Little is known about the founder of this mosque. Map sheet The chief interest of the building today is the 23 minaret, which has richly carved muqarnas, arabesques, and geometric designs (the minaret’s upper story has collapsed). The trilobed portal with a muqarnas conch has been bricked up and its inscriptions destroyed. The lintels over the low-level windows in the façade are carved with geometric motifs. The interior is new and disused, with a floor built above the level of the original to match the rise in external ground level.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 137; Hanna 1984, 68–71; Meinecke 1992, II:392 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 11–12; BCCMAA 1889, 59–60; BCCMAA 1905, 81 (classification of minaret); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 112; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800; BCCMAA 1920–24, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 111; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 95, 194; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15
208 Palace of Radwan Bey AH 1060 / AD 1650 Radwan Bey directed the annual pilgrimage to Map sheet Mecca for many years. The enormous mid-seven21 teenth–century development that he founded contiguous to his palace includes the covered street known as the Tentmakers’ Bazaar (nos. 406–408), shops, apartment units, two small mosques, and a sabil. Parts of this complex may have been used during the pilgrimage procession. The entire palace, which includes two ruined qa‘as, was at one point part of the same listing, now applied solely to the maq‘ad. This has three arches supported on marble columns with a small wooden pedimented baldachino between two of the columns. The maq‘ad and the upper floors (heavily restored by the Comité) are approached from a trilobed portal. The courtyard around which the palace was originally built has been infilled by carpentry workshops.
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Plan: Revault and Maury 1975, 72 References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 34); Pauty 1936, 37; Revault and Maury 1975, 67–82; Llewellyn 1984; Hanna 1989; Jaubert 1995, 200 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 106–7 (classification); BCCMAA 1900, 34; BCCMAA 1901, 49–50; BCCMAA 1902, 36, 83; BCCMAA 1904, 22–23; BCCMAA 1909, 115–16; BCCMAA 1910, 16, 49, 75–76; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 139; BCCMAA 1912 (appendix), 117–18; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 66 (item d); BCCMAA 1933–35, 45; BCCMAA 1936–40, 107; BCCMAA 1946–53, 14, 141, 184; SCA 2002, 101–4 (misnumbered 604)
209 Mosque of Taghribardi AH 844 / AD 1440 Taghribardi al-Buklumushi was a mamluk of Sultan Map sheet Farag ibn Barquq who subsequently became the 24 secretary of Sultan Gaqmaq; he was murdered in AD 1442. Taghribardi’s funerary complex compresses the standard elements of a Mamluk urban foundation into a very small site. The mosque is approached through an ablaq portal with a trilobed muqarnas hood and two inscription bands at low and high levels. To the left of the portal is a sabil (now occupied by a shop); the kuttab above is a rather heavyhanded Comité reconstruction dating to 1911. A minaret rises on a square base behind the sabil; a tomb with a brick dome to the right of the entrance has rather curious lozenge-like ribbing on its outer surface. The sahn is open and covered by both an awning and wire mesh, with a high-level inscription around it. The qibla and lateral iwans have decorated wooden ceilings, and the whole interior is surrounded by an inlaid marble dado. The cistern beneath the sabil of the complex was recently documented (SCA 2002).
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:158 References: Creswell 1919, 127; Pauty 1929, 147 (muqarnas); Kessler 1969, 264, 265; J. Williams 1984, 39 pl. 5; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 50–54; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 358–59; Meinecke 1992, II:360–61; Tantawi 1994, 16–27 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 14, 71–72, 82; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 144; BCCMAA 1914, 58; BCCMAA 1915–19, 840; BCCMAA 1920–24, 55 94, 96, 255, 257, 259, 275, 359; BCCMAA 1930–32, 23, 252; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 32, 38; BCCMAA 1936–40, 227, 230; SCA 417–18
210 Mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir AH 1224 / AD 1809 The Tahirs were functionaries in the court of Map sheet Muhammad ‘Ali. The association with Hasan Pasha 30 Tahir, given in the Index of Monuments, is disputed by Seton-Williams and Stocks (1988), who identify ‘Ali and ‘Abdin Pasha as founders. Although the complex dates to the early nineteenth century, it is decorated in the Mamluk style—unusual for a building constructed during the reign of Muhammad ‘Ali. The complex comprises a sabil, with an enormous intact circular marble basin; a tomb-chamber with an
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inscribed marble lintel, three marble cenotaphs and a ribbed dome of plastered brick; a trilobed entrance portal; a threetiered minaret; and an arcaded prayer hall with traditional marble dados. There is also an external prayer space to the north with a mihrab set on a corrected angle. In the garden area to the northwest of the mosque stands the freestanding tomb of Ahmad Pasha Tahir, the brother of Hasan (see no. 565). Although only the façade is registered in the Index of Monuments, recent restoration work by the SCA in the mosque complex would suggest that the entire building is now to be considered a listed monument. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 334; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 166–67 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1905, 46; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 155; BCCMAA 1915–19, 794; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 72; BCCMAA 1927–29, 193; BCCMAA 1946–53, 140, 292
211 Mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi AH 900 / AD 1494 Azbak, a mamluk of Sultan Gaqmaq, died in AD Map sheet 1499. His cruciform madrasa is built on a corner 31 site, very much in the Qaytbay style, with an abundance of highly decorative surface treatments. A sabil-kuttab (with its own entrance) stands to the left of the main portal on the northern side of the building, and a qa‘a once stood to the right of the portal behind the main prayer space (now demolished). A hawd is located at the extreme north of the northern façade. The ornately carved minaret is positioned to the right of the portal. A secondary portal, on the southern side of the building, is now blocked. The principal portal has a muqarnas hood, both low- and high-level inscriptions, and intact metal revetments on its doors. A bent entrance leads past the tombs of the founder and his wife (actually located in the northeastern iwan) to the sahn, which is covered by an ornately carved shukhshaykha and has a geometric inlaid polychrome marble floor. Fine carving covers the surfaces of the voussoirs of the arches to the iwans; the minbar and kursi are both original.
Plan: Revault and Maury 1979, 29 References: Creswell 1919, 148; Revault and Maury 1979, 21–30; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 358; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 150; Meinecke 1992, II:438–39; Fernandes 1997, 115; Asfour 2000, 253–54; O’Kane 2000, 170 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 24, 49; BCCMAA 1902, 78–79; BCCMAA 1909, 87; BCCMAA 1910, 98; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 51; BCCMAA 1915–19, 793; BCCMAA 1920–24, 24, 98; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94, 140, 194; BCCMAA 1930–32, 98, 271; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 38, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 266; BCCMAA 1941–45, 52, 241, 337, 362; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 33, 53, 133–34
213 Sabil of Yusuf al-Kurdi Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This sabil still has its original bronze grilles and Map sheet decorative stone strapwork; most of its portal has 30 collapsed, however, and the interior is derelict. The mosque, to which the sabil is attached, appears to be unlisted, although it possesses many Mamluk decorative features. The mosque’s façade is composed of a central trilobed portal with a muqarnas conch and muqarnas niching as squinches, flanked by carved spandrel panels. Symmetrically disposed to either side of the portal are two tomb chambers, with windows to the street, beyond which is a covered sahn and a qibla iwan. A dwelling was built above the street frontage of the mosque in the nineteenth century, and a minaret of rendered brick stands to the north over a secondary entrance. Also to the north is a more modern zawiya, which contains an Ottoman mihrab dating to 1725. Both sabil and mosque are shown in plan here. Plan: SCA Archive References: Raymond 1979a, 244 (no. 11) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 131; BCCMAA 1892, 111–12; BCCMAA 1903, 54; BCCMAA 1905, 46; BCCMAA 1906, 123–24 (historical notice on mosque); BCCMAA 1907, 125; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 107; BCCMAA 1912, 104; BCCMAA 1915–19, 795; BCCMAA 1933–35, 332
214 Façade of zawiya of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda AH 1142 / AD 1729 This small zawiya in the section of the Qasaba Map sheet known as Magharbellin has an ornate façade with 21 a projecting stone muezzin’s balcony, and cusped trilobed arches. The zawiya is on the first floor, over shop units. The entire building was dismantled by the SCA in 1997 and reconstructed at a higher level.
Plan: Sameh 1946 (first floor) References: Sameh 1946, 23–27; Raymond 1972, 240 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 45 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 3; BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1920–24, 256, 273, 355, 359
215 Qubba of Awlad al-Asyad Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD This mausoleum, with its stone base and plasteredMap sheet brick ribbed dome, is set back from the street, and 22 is the only surviving portion of what must have been a larger complex. Access today is from a side street, and the tomb stands in a rubbish dump, with a greatly increased ground level surrounding it. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Meinecke 1992, II:153 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1910, 70–71 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 25; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1946–53, 14
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217 Façade of the mosque of Gaqmaq AH 853 / AD 1449 This building is known also (for reasons that remain Map sheet unclear) as the mosque of Lagin al-Sa‘ifi. It has a 31 trilobed muqarnas portal with an inscription naming Sultan Gaqmaq as the founder, and a crenellated front. The mosque itself is more interesting than its façade, however, and takes the form of an open courtyard with arched riwaqs supported on reused antique columns, with an undecorated mihrab and a dikka on the opposite side of the sahn.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 132; Meinecke 1992, II:370; Tantawi 1994, 81–85 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 47–48; BCCMAA 1906, 57 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 109; BCCMAA 1915–19, 794; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13, 103; BCCMAA 1946–53, 340–41
218 Mosque of Sarghatmish AH 757 / AD 1356 Abutting the northwestern wall of the ziyada of the Map sheet mosque of Ibn Tulun (no. 220) stands this substan24 and 31 tial complex, built by an amir of al-Nasir Muhammad, which contains many fine decorative details. The entrance is through an imposing portal, the frame of which rises slightly above the cornice line of the building. This has a muqarnas hood, flanked by delicate arabesque carving that may once have been painted and gilded. To the left of the portal is an octagonal minaret, and to the right is the tomb chamber, which projects out into the street following qibla orientation. The tomb is surmounted by a remarkable double-shelled dome on a high drum with an inscription band (part of which survives) and muqarnas cornice above it. The interior of the building follows a cruciform plan, with living units for students arranged on two floors between the iwans, which are fronted by pointed arches. A bent entrance leads to the sahn, which has marble paving and a fountain pavilion at its center surrounded by eight marble columns (now surmounted by a modern dome in wood). Marble slabs decorated with arabesques can be seen on the walls of the qibla iwan, and the mihrab has further carved marble inserts. The dome over the qibla iwan (a Comité concrete construction) follows a profile similar to the existing dome over the tomb chamber, which contains an inscribed marble cenotaph. The complex was extensively rebuilt between 1999 and 2003. Excavations around the perimeter of the building have revealed a row of shops under the mosque on the southern side. The mosque is abutted to the north by an Ottoman-period house, largely reconstructed by the Comité, which serves as the headquarters of the SCA’s Survey Department.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:126, and SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 107; Kessler 1969, 262, 264; Karnouk 1981, 116 and pl. ii.3 (tabut); Fernandes 1987b, 90–91; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 352; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 121–22; Meinecke 1992, II:222–23; Asfour 2000, 249
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 57, 94–95; BCCMAA 1899, 123–24; BCCMAA 1900, 88; BCCMAA 1901, 94; BCCMAA 1903, 38–39; BCCMAA 1904, 79; BCCMAA 1906, 4–5; BCCMAA 1909, 104–5, 135; BCCMAA 1910, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 148; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 83; BCCMAA 1913, 83; BCCMAA 1915–19, 102–5, 388, 399, 403, 461, 463–64, 502, 519, 585, 624–25, 639, 695, 697, 700, 773, 795; BCCMAA 1920–24, 23, 94, 96, 100; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15–16, 19, 54, 59–60, 99, 177, 191, 200, 232; BCCMAA 1933–35, 1, 4, 7, 10, 20–21, 25, 37–38, 126, 128, 157, 171, 179, 185, 201–2, 228, 237, 241; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13, 56, 227, 229–33, 258–59, 267–69, 272–73, 275, 278, 322, 333, 342, 348–49, 359–60; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 28, 129, 290, 320, 337, 363 (mosque and tomb); 60, 204–5, 215, 240 (Ottoman house); C. Williams 2002, 462
219 Sabil of Yusuf Bey AH 1044 / AD 1634 This building should not be confused with another Map sheet sabil by the same name built in the eighteenth 31 century (no. 262). Although the upper story has been destroyed, this sabil preserves much of its elaborate decorative stone detailing. To judge from the surviving structure, it must have once formed part of a larger complex extending to the west. The foundation inscription (transcribed by the Comité and published in the 1910 Bulletin) also describes a house and prayer space attached to the sabil.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 249 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 75; BCCMAA 1903, 21–22; BCCMAA 1907, 66–67; BCCMAA 1908, 102–3; BCCMAA 1909, 40–41; BCCMAA 1910, 59–60, 157–158 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 166; BCCMAA 1915–19, 795; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39
220 Mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun AH 263–65 / AD 876–79 The mosque of Ibn Tulun—the oldest and largest Map sheet extant mosque within the area of Historic Cairo— 16 and 23 follows a model imported from Samarra: a courtyard with arcades around it resting on brick piers, which is surrounded by a ziyada, or additional walled space, on all sides except that of the qibla. The many gates within this outer wall originally led to streets outside the perimeter of the building. The whole mosque is built on a rocky outcrop called the Gebel Yashkur. The outer wall of the ziyada and the outer wall of the mosque itself are topped by a plastered-brick crenellation of a unique interlocking design. The level of the mosque is raised slightly above that of the ziyada, which contains another remarkable feature on the northern side: a stone minaret with an external staircase. The western side of the ziyada contains a sabil built by Sultan Qaytbay (see U119). The minaret is certainly of later date; at least part of it was constructed in AD 1297 by Sultan Lagin, who was also responsible for the stone fountain pavilion with a dome in the center of the courtyard of the mosque. (The exact dating of the minaret
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remains a subject of controversy among architectural historians.) It is possible that the spiral form of the minaret’s upper section was derived from the mosque’s original minaret, which may have followed a Samarran spiral prototype. It is the only minaret in Cairo with a staircase situated on the outside of its shaft. On the qibla side of the mosque, half of the original foundation inscription is mounted on a pier. Two other piers contain flat stucco mihrabs: one is a Fatimid example (commissioned by the vizier al-Afdal) and the other an archaizing Mamluk example (by Lagin). Another flat stucco mihrab, dating to the thirteenth century, is located on the qibla wall to the left of the central mihrab. A dikka on marble columns in front of the mihrab is a later addition by Lagin, who also commissioned the mosque’s fine minbar. Much of the mosque’s ceiling has been replaced, but fragments of a wooden inscription band in kufic that ran across the top of the qibla arcades can still be seen. Sections of the original stamped and carved stucco patterns adorning the soffits of the arches of the arcades are also visible. The outer wall of the mosque is pierced at high level by more than a hundred windows with stucco grilles, each of which has its individual geometric design. The major restoration works undertaken in the mosque by the Comité during the early part of the twentieth century included the rebuilding of the fallen outer arcade on the qibla side of the courtyard, the restoration of the fountain, the unblocking of all the arches, the demolition of buildings encroaching onto the ziyada, the replacement of the roofs, the landscaping of the courtyard/ziyada/surrounds, and the demolition of a Mamluk minaret in the southeastern corner of the building. Another (heavily criticized for its use of concrete in the courtyard and steel reinforcement in the walls) restoration of the mosque by the SCA commenced in 2000 and is drawing to a close in 2004. Plan: After Creswell 1940, 351 References: Creswell 1919, 44–48; Pauty 1932, 104 and 102, fig. 4; Creswell 1940, 332–59; Creswell 1959, 223–29; Grohmann 1965; Rogers 1969, 387–88; Ibrahim 1970–71, 31, 38–39; Karnouk 1981, 115, 116 and pls. I.3, I.4 (minbar); Hanna 1984, 18–19; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 352–57; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 51–54; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 51–57; Swelim 1995; Meinecke 1992, II:83, 136; Bierman 1998, 4, 7, 44, 51, 96, 105, 127, 128; Sayyid 1998, 42–54; 432–33, 460–62; O’Kane 1999, 156–57; Swelim 2000; Tabbaa 2002, 70 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.) 22, 32, 48; BCCMAA 1887–88, 55–56; BCCMAA 1890, 37–43 (with plan), 102, 111, 116; BCCMAA 1891, 40, 100; BCCMAA 1892, 99–100; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 114–15; BCCMAA 1894, 38, 44–45, 71; BCCMAA 1895, 39–40, 41–42, 46–47, 95–96; BCCMAA 1896, 50–51, 53–54; BCCMAA 1897, 27; BCCMAA 1898, 121; BCCMAA 1899, 92; BCCMAA 1902, 35, 120; BCCMAA 1904, 31–32; BCCMAA 1907, 120–21; BCCMAA 1908, 17, 29, 35, 51–52; BCCMAA 1909, 22–25, 34, 59, 116, 135–36; BCCMAA 1910, 25–26, 36–37; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 10; BCCMAA 1911, 65, 96; BCCMAA 1912, 82; BCCMAA 1913, 31–32, 52, 69; BCCMAA 1915–19, 19, 366, 389, 533, 624–25, 627, 638, 643, 658, 697, 701, 727, 744, 773–74, 793, 819; BCCMAA 1920–24, 16, 43, 49, 55, 95–97, 100, 344, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16–17, 21, 72, 77, 97, 121; Pauty 1931b, 165–66 n. 2; BCCMAA 1930–32, 3, 13–14, 18, 31, 36, 41, 57–58, 75, 178, 229; BCCMAA 1933–35, 23–24, 35–36, 41, 47–48, 95–96, 108, 111, 146, 155–56, 158–59, 169–70, 172–73, 177–78, 180–81, 187,
189, 313, 315; BCCMAA 1936–40, 2, 5, 118–19, 140, 144, 146–47, 245, 351, 353–60; BCCMAA 1941–45, 64, 90, 208, 218, 243, 250, 279, 300, 323, 330; BCCMAA 1946–53, 41, 47–49, 51, 63, 70, 86, 98, 125–26, 191, 196, 216, 280, 327; SCA 2002, 249–62; C. Williams 2002, 462–63
221 Mosque of Salar and Sangar AH 703 / AD 1303 The amirs Salar and Sangar were great friends who Map sheet built a joint mausoleum during the rule of Sultan 31 Baybars. Sangar subsequently became a powerful amir of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad; his friend Salar, however, was incarcerated by the sultan and died in prison. Sangar dedicated the larger of the two tomb chambers to him. The building, with its distinctive composition of two domes and a minaret, is built on a high outcrop of the Qal’at al-Kabsh, which gives it a great prominence. The minaret rises from a square base to the right of the portal; its decorative treatment recalls the minaret of the Qalawun complex in Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 43). Stairs lead from street level up to the portal with a square muqarnas hood that opens onto a groin-vaulted entrance vestibule with a second flight of stairs leading up to the level of the mosque itself and the tomb chambers. A vaulted corridor, which is open on one side with fine pierced stone screens patterned with arabesques, gives access to the two main tombs, ending at a third, smaller stone-domed tomb (attributed by Ibrahim [1976] to the amir Bashtak, and thus predating the foundation). The two principal tombs have plastered-brick ribbed domes with intact inscriptions at their bases. The tomb of Salar (nearest the staircase) has a fine inlaid marble mihrab; a wooden inscription band runs across the walls. The adjacent tomb of Sangar has an undecorated mihrab with a ribbed conch and a second wooden inscription band. The prayer space is unusual in that it is not oriented correctly to qibla, although the tombs themselves are. The single iwan has a later mihrab in its flank; a vaulted room is located directly above the entrance. The sahn was originally open, and the students’ cells are arranged around its western and southern sides, with fine stone window grilles over their doors. Above the cells runs a stucco inscription band. Another door in the sahn leads to an open space, through which a route runs up the hill to the back door of the complex, which has a trilobed muqarnas portal. The open space behind the complex was used as a cemetery; it is now overwhelmed by debris.
Plan: Creswell 1959, facing 244 References: Creswell 1919, 86; Pauty 1929, 146, fig. 12, pls. iv.13 and 14 (muqarnas); Creswell 1959, 242–48; Ibrahim 1976, 9; BehrensAbouseif 1985, 73 n. 1 and 81; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 349, 350–52; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 101–4; Meinecke 1992, II:95, 135, 210; Blair and Bloom, 1995, 102; Jaubert 1995, 191 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 52; BCCMAA 1892, 48–52 (with plans); BCCMAA 1895, 32; BCCMAA 1909, 87–88; BCCMAA 1910, 77–78; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 147; BCCMAA 1915–19, 405, 795; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94, 140; Pauty 1931b, 166 n. 1; BCCMAA 1933–35, 147, 159, 182, 265, 269; BCCMAA 1936–40, 13; BCCMAA 1941–45, 60, 90, 208–9, 218, 243–44, 250, 279, 300, 323–24, 330; BCCMAA 1946–53, 207
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Hawd of Qaytbay
laced with steel tie-beams, particularly visible on the north side. Traces of the base of a minaret are visible at the top of the gate.
AH 880 / AD 1475 This watering trough was built in association with Map sheet Qaytbay’s adjacent mosque (see no. 223). Traces of 31 the trough’s tripartite back wall are all that remain of the structure, together with a badly damaged inscription band.
Plan: 1: 500 Cadastral Plan References: Creswell 1919, 95; Meinecke 1977, 89–97; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 320; Meinecke 1992, II:155; al-Harithy 2000: 229–30; Karim 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 2–3; BCCMAA 1891, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 107; BCCMAA 1910, 149–55; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782
Plan: CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 140–41; Meinecke 1992, II:409 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 58; BCCMAA 1909, 138; BCCMAA 1910, 13; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 89; BCCMAA 1915–19, 794
225
222
223 Mosque of Qaytbay AH 880 / AD 1475 This mosque was built by Qaytbay on the Qal’at alMap sheet Kabsh just after the completion of his funerary 31 complex in the eastern cemetery, and it bears all the hallmarks of the Qaytbay style. The mosque has two entrances, each with a differently decorated portal. That to the north has a trilobed hood with a conch carved with a geometric pattern, and its southern counterpart has a more common muqarnas-type hood. The two-story minaret stands near the northern entrance. The sahn within has an inlaid marble floor and richly decorated shukhshaykha. An inscription runs above the ablaq arches of the iwans, and a further inscription adorns the qibla wall, which has a dense array of stucco grilled windows at high level and another richly decorated ceiling. The walls of the mosque and mihrab are, by contrast, plain. The minbar is original.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 140–41; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 147; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 349–50; Meinecke 1992, II:409 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1883, 13–14; BCCMAA 1897, 23; BCCMAA 1899, 23, 54–55, 89; BCCMAA 1900, 34–35, 62; BCCMAA 1905, 11–12; BCCMAA 1907, 120; BCCMAA 1909, 138; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 82; BCCMAA 1913, 69; BCCMAA 1915–19, 403, 794; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94; BCCMAA 1936–40, 333; BCCMAA 1941–45, 186, 221–22, 234, 279; BCCMAA 1946–53, 138, 293
224 Gate of the mosque of Qawsun AH 730 / AD 1330 This vast gateway, known locally as ‘the Gate of Map sheet the Law Court,’ effectively advertised the presence 22 of the mosque of Qawsun (no. 202) on the main thoroughfare, although it is not certain that it served the mosque. The original doors to the gate, with metal revetments, are now in the Islamic Museum. The portal has a muqarnas hood, ablaq facing, and foundation inscription band; a stone vault lies behind it. A sundial dating from AD 1383 on the southern side of the gate at low level is inscribed in ‘astronomical’ kufic. The upper sections of the structure are heavily
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Takiyat al-Sulaymaniya AH 950 / AD 1543 Hadim Sulayman Pasha, who built this takiya folMap sheet lowing Ottoman prototypes, was governor of 22 Egypt twice: once from from AD 1524 to 1534 and subsequently from 1536 to 1538. His mosque (no. 142) is in the northern enclosure of the Citadel. The street frontage of this building is commerical, consisting of shop units above which are duplex residential units accessed from the north. The northern section of the façade adjacent to the portal has collapsed, and some rebuilding (in concrete and brick) has taken place. Remnants of the main inscription, dated AH 950 (AD 1543, after the founder had left Cairo) can be seen on the trilobed portal, which has stone moldings and decorative geometric panels and retains its original doors. The vestibule leads via a staircase to the level of the raised courtyard, which has its original stone paving. The courtyard is surrounded by arches supported on antique marble columns, forming a cloister of shallow plastered-brick pendentive domes with stone finials. The living units for the Sufis surround this cloister and are also covered by shallow domes. Facing the entrance on axis is a small prayer hall with a mihrab that has an intact inscription band; a tomb occupies the southeastern corner. The southern façade retains its original bronze window grilles.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 291 References: J. Williams 1969, 459 and 469 n. 21; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 158–59; Bates 1991, 151–53; Raymond 1991, 355–56; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 185, 248–50 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 46, 91, 101, 132; BCCMAA 1901, 126–27; BCCMAA 1909, 111; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 151; BCCMAA 1911, 16, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 40, 79, 82, 106; BCCMAA 1914, 157, 163; BCCMAA 1915–19, 321, 585, 783; BCCMAA 1920–24, 355, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 15; BCCMAA 1930–32, 55
226 Sabil-kuttab of ‘Umar Bey AH 1159 / AD 1746 This sabil was formerly known as the sabil of Map sheet Ibrahim Khulussi. It has an original bronze grille to 22 its single opening on the northern façade, with intact shutters behind. The stonework has decorative strapwork and geometric panels. Unlike the sabil, the kuttab is two-sided. A large projecting mashrabiya window on
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corbels survives over the portal on the northern façade: a similar projection on the eastern façade has fallen away, leaving only a single corbel. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 24; Raymond 1979a, 272 (no. 88) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 57; BCCMAA 1898, 114; BCCMAA 1908, 34, 82; BCCMAA 1909, 125; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 79; BCCMAA 1915–19, 559, 779; BCCMAA 1920–24, 94
228 House of Qaytbay AH 890 / AD 1485 This is a large courtyard house with a fine tripleMap sheet arched maq‘ad, the walls of which are painted with 21 landscape scenes (possibly later Ottoman additions). A subsidiary decorated stone portal in the southwestern corner of the courtyard leads to the remains of a qa‘a at ground level. Stables occupy the eastern side of the courtyard. The maq‘ad, inner portal, and stable block seem to be parts of the original Mamluk complex; the other surviving elements are later additions. The now-inaccessible interior is derelict and scaffolded.
Plan: Revault and Maury 1975, 24 References: Creswell 1919, 146; Pauty 1933b, 83 (no. 36); Revault and Maury 1975, 21–34; Meinecke 1992, II:428; Jaubert 1995, 195; Behrens-Abouseif 1998, 37; O’Kane 2000, 164 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 110–11 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 87; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1936–40, 279–82; BCCMAA 1946–53, 181, 185–87, 237, 291
229 Tomb of Yusuf Agha al-Habashi AH 1013 / AD 1604 This complex was built by an important black Map sheet eunuch and apparently had watering troughs flank14 ing the tomb windows. Pauty (1933a) describes a house attached to this tomb, but the structure is hard to distinguish today as a result of the collapse of its major structural elements, including the first floor above the portal, the dome, and the entire southern corner.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933b, 82 (no. 35); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 309 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 45; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 70; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1930–32, 52; BCCMAA 1936–40, 71, 73
230 Sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada AH 1088 / AD 1677 This monument, situated on the corner of Darb alMap sheet Ahmar to the west of the mosque of al-Mihmandar 14 (no. 115), is not marked on the 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments and is confused in the Index of Monuments with another sabil, no. 150. (It has also been commonly given the name of the other sabil: Muhammad
Katkhuda Mustahfizan.) Part of the confusion about the identity of the founder may stem from changes in ownership and multiple inscriptions (see Raymond [2000]). The sabil has an unusual form in that its façades are obliquely aligned to the street, which curves at this point. The ground level has risen here to the level of the sabil grilles, which are of bronze and contain some surviving inserts with the name of Allah. There is a marble inscription in Turkish over one grille and tiled lunettes over both. The interior, which contains an original marble salsabil, was once lined in blue-and-white tiles, many of which have gone missing. The water distribution room has a further inscription in Arabic around the ceiling. The waqf of Yusuf Agha also included a wikala to the northwest of the sabil (U39). Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 24; Raymond 1979a, 257 (no. 46) and 265 (no. 68); Raymond 2000 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887, 99 (listing); BCCMAA 1909, 28; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 71; BCCMAA 1915–19, 784; BCCMAA 1946–53, 140
232 Sabil of Mustafa Musali Shurbagi AH 1127 / AD 1715 This typical Ottoman sabil, which has lost its Map sheet upper-story kuttab, is part of a small wikala that 14 was substantially demolished when a new school was built at the rear of the site. The front wall of the wikala (bordering the street) survives, and the sabil’s grille is original.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 264 (no. 65) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 19 (translation of inscription), 21–22, 65; BCCMAA 1899, 66; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 130; BCCMAA 1915–19, 781
233 Mosque of the amir Husayn AH 719 / AD 1319 This mosque is composed of arched arcades Map sheet formed of stone piers. Original stucco work can be 27 seen above the modern marble mihrab, adjacent to which is the domed tomb of the founder, an amir of Sultan Lagin who died in AD 1328. The mosque, which had been severely damaged by water, was restored by the SCA in 1996.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 95, 157; Creswell 1959, 269–70; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 280; Meinecke 1992, II:125, 388 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 1–2; BCCMAA 1902, 115 (classification); BCCMAA 1910, 110–11, 116–17, 155–57 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 76; BCCMAA 1915–19, 808; BCCMAA 1930–32, 71, 177, 191, 200, 232; BCCMAA 1946–53, 348
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234
236
Mausoleum of Abul Yusufayn
Sabil-kuttab of Taha Hasan al-Wardani
730 / AD 1329 Popularly attributed to ‘the father of two Josephs,’ Map sheet the identity of this tomb’s patron is unknown. The 14 tomb’s northwestern corner is chamfered to accommodate a street that originally flanked the structure on the north side. The tomb, which has a ribbed dome of plastered brick, is approached through a small zawiya of unknown date that incorporates the western iwan of the original Mamluk zawiya attached to the mausoleum. The double windows of the tomb and the iwan are noteworthy for the unusual marble colonettes that separate them.
Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This typical Ottoman sabil-kuttab is mentioned Map sheet under the name ‘sabil ‘Aqash’ in the Description de 19 l’Égypte. The kuttab has been reduced to a shell, and the sabil is inaccessible because of the collapse of heavy masonry from above. The wikala to which the sabil was once attached has today totally disappeared; it appears originally to have been a Mamluk foundation.
AH
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 96; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Kessler 1969, 260, 262; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 309; Meinecke 1992, II:152–53; Seton-Watson 2000, 82–83 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 49 (classification); BCCMAA 1904, 43; BCCMAA 1905, 13; BCCMAA 1907, 64; BCCMAA 1908, 16, 51, 98; BCCMAA 1910, 13–14, 77; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 6; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776
235 House of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz Ninth century and AH 1192 / Fifteenth century and AD 1778 This sprawling three-story palace—originally two Map sheet separate residences divided by an alley—is built 14 and 15 around two courtyards that extend from Shari‘ Bab al-Wazir (called al-Tabbana at this point) to the Suq al-Silah, with entrances on both these arteries. Both houses have significant remnants of Mamluk building: a doorway bearing the cartouches of Sultan Qaytbay, and dating to ca. AD 1480, stands in the eastern courtyard, while an enormous qa‘a stands at ground level off the western courtyard. There is a fine Ottoman qa‘a at second-floor level overlooking the Shari‘ al-Tabbana, with painted wood ceilings and elaborate mashrabiyas. The only surviving maq‘ad is in the western courtyard, to the north of the (partially collapsed) groin-vaulted stone entrance onto the Suq al-Silah, which seems to have become the principal entrance to the combined residences. The entire property came into the hands of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz in the late eighteenth century, and it was no doubt modified to suit the needs of its new owners. Perhaps the two courtyards were linked during this period. The site is currently undergoing selective conservation by the EAP and the SCA. Plan: Revault and Maury 1979, 41 and 55 References: Pauty 1933b, 84 (no. 39); Revault and Maury 1979, 35–66; Walker and Yassin 1980, 57–61; Maury et al. 1983, 120–32; Jaubert 1995, 195–96, 201–2; O’Kane 2000, 157–58, 163, 164; Seton-Watson 2000, 85–88; Longeaud 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, appendix iv; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 11; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1920–24, 76; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15, 147, 165; BCCMAA 1936–40, 57, 77, 79; BCCMAA 1941–45, 367; BCCMAA 1946–53, 135, 185–86
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Plan: CMP Survey. Note: the plan of the interior, which is inaccessible, is approximate. References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 285 (no. 121); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 264 (no. 30); Denoix et al. 1999, II:60–61 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 59–60 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 155; BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1933–35, 332; SCA 2002, 183–86
237 Minaret of the zawiyat al-Hunud ca. AH 715 / AD 1315 This is one of the oldest surviving Bahri Mamluk Map sheet minarets in Cairo and is stylistically related to its 15 Ayyubid predecessors, being constructed of plastered brick. The dating has been revised by Meinecke (1992), and it is his date that is given here. The rest of the zawiya, called ‘of the Indians’ because it served the Bukharis of the Qadiriya order, has disappeared. The minaret is today located within the precincts of a nursery school; the entrance at firstfloor level (which was probably the roof of the missing zawiya) is inaccessible. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 77; Creswell 1959, 140; Meinecke 1992, II:117; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 310; Seton-Watson 2000, 92–94 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 93; BCCMAA 1891, 24; BCCMAA 1900, 86; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 76; BCCMAA 1915–19, 778
238 Sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan AH 1049–50 / AD 1639–40 Ibrahim Agha was a mamluk of Radwan Bey who, Map sheet before his exile in AD 1662, built or modified a sub15 stantial number of structures along the Darb alAhmar, including the mosque of Aqsunqur (no. 123). This sabil was listed by the Comité in the 1915–19 Bulletin in conjunction with the tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian; the tomb was subsequently separately registered as no. 586 (see below). The sabil does, in fact, form a unitary whole with the tomb and an intervening house (see no. 613), both of which were also built by Ibrahim Agha. The sabil has decorative stone strapwork, original bronze grilles, and an intact inscription. There is also an intact salsabil with hood inside. It has two entrances: one on the northern elevation with a flat arch and decorative strapwork, and a subsidiary access
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from the tomb-entrance corridor leading behind the rab‘ shop units. Two massive corbels protrude on the west at high level, supporting what appears to be part of the adjacent residential unit rather than the usual kuttab. There is clear physical evidence that the complex at one time continued further east. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 24 (sabil); Raymond 1979a, 250–51 (no. 29); Raymond 1979b, 121–23 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1908, 82; BCCMAA 1909, 125; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 78 (tomb and sabil); BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1933–35, 25, 37
240 Sabil and tomb of ‘Umar Agha 1063 / AD 1652 This small tomb has a plain plastered-brick dome. Map sheet The sabil has two original bronze grilles and an 15 inscription on its northern façade. A domestic qa‘a is located over the sabil in place of the more usual kuttab. It would seem that the entire structure once occupied the whole corner block, having been partially remodeled in the nineteenth century. The house complex to the northeast (U59) is attributed to the same founder. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 24 (sabil); Raymond 1979a, 252 (no. 34) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 97–98 (classification), 118, 132, 143; BCCMAA 1895, 40; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 137 (sabil only); BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1933–35, 141, 143; BCCMAA 1936–40, 224, 225; BCCMAA 1941–45, 15; BCCMAA 1946–53, 183
241 Zawiya of Muhammad Durgham Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This completely derelict monument retains its stone Map sheet façade of two recessed bays with muqarnas and 15 square-headed muqarnas portal. There is an empty inscription band and an interesting stone waterspout projecting from roof level. Plan: SCA Archive References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 41–42, 156; BCCMAA 1903, 24; BCCMAA 1908, 35–36, 56; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 50; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777
242 Madrasa of Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi 748 / AD 1347 The amir Qutlubugha (‘Lucky Bull’) al-Dhahabi was Map sheet true to his name, in that he participated in the 15 overthrow of Sultan Hasan in AD 1361 but lived on until 1406. The façade of this small mosque has an ablaq portal and several inscriptions. The vestibule, currently in use as an ablutions area, has a carved wood ceiling with a painted inscription band running beneath it. A fine mihrab, AH
inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl mosaic, survives on the qibla side. Opposite this is a large arched iwan opening with a flat timber ceiling, beneath which are two cenotaphs. Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 104; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 328; Meinecke 1992, II:207 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 66–67 (classification); BCCMAA 1895, 71; BCCMAA 1896, 162; BCCMAA 1909, 94–95; BCCMAA 1910, 12–13, 59; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 97; BCCMAA 1912, 23, 49; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1941–45, 12, 15
243 Sabil-kuttab of Hasan Agha Koklian AH 1106 / AD 1694 This sabil, constructed by a commander of the Map sheet Janissaries, is known also as the sabil-kuttab in the 15 waqf of Balfiya (not to be confused with the sabil and rab‘ in the waqf of Balfiya in the same street [see no. (498) below]). The façades have decorative stone strapwork, an inscription and tiled lunettes over the bronze window grilles at ground level, and typical arcades at the level of the kuttab. Marble water basins and a salsabil with a muqarnas hood survive internally, together with a painted wood ceiling. An adjacent wikala, whose façade (to the north of the sabil) survives, was probably included in the listing at some point; a modern apartment block now occupies most of the interior of the wikala’s courtyard.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23–24; Raymond 1979a, 259 (no. 51) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 105 (as ‘sabil al–Belifia’); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 39; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777, 823
244 Hammam of Bashtak AH 742 / AD 1341 Bashtak, an amir and the master of the robes of Map sheet Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, was the builder of the 15 eponymous palace in Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 34) and a mosque near Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id, whose minaret and portal survive (no. 205). His bathhouse has an elaborate ablaq portal, now located about one and a half meters below ground level, with a ribbed keel arch, inlaid marble strapwork, and a dated inscription. The hammam of Bashtak may originally have been a double bath for men and women (only one half survives); the men’s half was in use until relatively recently. The interior, probably remodeled in the Ottoman period, preserves many typical elements of bathhouse design.
Plan: Dow 1996, 121, and SCA Archive References: Herz 1904b; Creswell 1919, 101; Pauty 1933a, 58 (no. 30); Raymond 1969, 133 (nos.12 and 13); Raymond 1978, 354; Meinecke 1992, II:190; Dow 1996, 120–22; Warner 2002, 57 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 116–17 (classification and translation of inscription), 154–58 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1903, 27–28; BCCMAA 1910, 49–50, 76–77; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 36; BCCMAA 1911, 108; BCCMAA 1912, 25, 50, 113; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1933–35, 75, 103, 106; BCCMAA 1936–40, 103
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245 Ribat of Ahmad ibn Sulayman AH 690 / AD 1291 Ahmad ibn Sulayman was a descendant of the Rifa‘i Map sheet family from Iraq and was a shaykh of the brother15 hood in Egypt. This is one of the few foundations in Cairo with the designation of ribat, or hospice for the poor (see also nos. 61 and [141]). The base of the building appears to be two meters below present ground level, and the site is fenced off. There is an outer (modern) stone wall, with a roofless chamber beyond, adjacent to a plastered-brick dome over the founder’s tomb. The main façade and the southwestern wall are Comité restorations. The building is remarkable for its three mihrabs: two in the prayer hall and one in the tomb chamber. All have stuccoed surrounds with inscriptions; that in the tomb chamber has a unique form of decoration with inlaid pieces of glass.
Plan: Creswell 1959, 220 References: Creswell 1919, 84; Creswell 1959, 219–22; Meinecke 1992, II:72; Carboni 2003 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1910, 69–70 (classification), 147–49 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 9; BCCMAA 1910, 147–49; BCCMAA 1911, 9; BCCMAA 1912, 66; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1933–35, 140, 142, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1946–53, 81, 286
246 Sabil of Mustafa Sinan AH 1040 / AD 1630 This sabil was once attached to a wikala, fragments Map sheet of which survive (see U74). It has two original 15 bronze grilles, a tiled lunette and roundels with tile inlays, and an elaborate marble inscription. The kuttab has been destroyed. Adjacent to the sabil is an unlisted stone arch that once formed the entrance to a hara.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; J. Williams 1969, 457; Raymond 1979a, 248 (no. 20) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1903, 54; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 131; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
247 Gate of Mangak al-Yusufi AH 747 / AD 1346 This was the entrance to the palace of Mangak alMap sheet Yusufi, whose mosque (no. 138) is in the Bab al15 Wazir cemetery. It seems appropriate that he, as armorer (silahdar), should have built his palace here at the entrance to the street of the sword market. The gate has a shallow stone dome; faint traces of the inscription band within are still visible. Three stone arches survive to the south of the gate, but all other remains of the palace have now disappeared.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 104; Meinecke 1992, II:209, 387
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 45–46 (with plan); BCCMAA 1894, 49 (translation of inscription); BCCMAA 1903, 62; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 113; BCCMAA 1911, 65; BCCMAA 1912, 84, 89; BCCMAA 1913, 71; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800, 830; BCCMAA 1925–26, 65, 69, 82; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92, 94, 115; BCCMAA 1930–32, 16; BCCMAA 1946–53, 139
248 Mosque of Khayrbak 908 and after / AD 1502 and after Khayrbak was a mamluk of Qaytbay who later Map sheet famously betrayed Sultan al-Ghuri to the 15 Ottomans at Aleppo and became the first Ottoman governor of Egypt under Selim Yavuz. This building was erected in two phases on two different orientations: the first construction, dating to AD 1502, was the tomb; the mosque and sabil-kuttab were built later: it is the tomb that is on the correct orientation to the qibla. The tomb chamber has a magnificent carved masonry dome with arabesque decoration and an inscription band around its base. The minaret is stuccoed brick; its lost finial was replaced in 2001 by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, whose restoration of the whole complex was scheduled for completion in 2004. A trilobed portal (with marble inlay) and doors (retaining some of their original metal revetments) give access to the interior of the lot through a bent entrance (with stone cross-vaults), located between the mosque and the sabil-kuttab, which projects into the street. The sabil-kuttab, also with a stone vaulted ceiling, was added to the complex by Ganem al-Hamzawi, a mamluk of Khayrbak, in the 1520s. A secondary portal, curiously positioned beyond the bent entrance at the head of a flight of steps, leads to the interior of the mosque, which is raised above what were originally living-units for Sufis. The space is dramatically vaulted with three cross-vaults on pointed arches with oculi let into their crowns and is lined with a marble dado. The tomb chamber is, unusually, also entered from a large portal at the end of the prayer hall (which clearly points to an earlier period of construction than the mosque); it is noteworthy for the effort the architect has made to reconcile the conflicting demands of tripartite elevations on both the inside and outside of the building. A staircase leads from the left of the mihrab to a bridge connecting the tomb to the Palace of Alnaq (no. 249). The endowment deed for the mosque is dated 1521, which provides a terminus for its construction. AH
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:171 References: Creswell 1919, 151–52; Kessler 1969, 265, 266; J. Williams 1969, 455; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 158; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 312; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 155–57; Meinecke 1992, II:450; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 182–84, 232–35; Asfour 2000, 249–50; Seton-Watson 2000, 111–14 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 10; BCCMAA 1886, 11; BCCMAA 1904, 80; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 99; BCCMAA 1911, 24, 63, 69; BCCMAA 1913, 31; BCCMAA 1914, 2, 11, 106, 164; BCCMAA 1915–19, 164–65, 355, 412, 585, 779; BCCMAA 1933–35, 313–14; BCCMAA 1936–40, 198–200, 325, 328
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249 Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri ca. AH 730 / AD 1329–30 This palace is wrongly dated and attributed in the Map sheet Index of Monuments to Alin Aq, the cup-bearer to 15 Sultan Ashraf Khalil ibn Qalawun (AH 693 / AD 1294). In fact the founder seems to have been Alnaq, the viceroy of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad. The palace was extensively remodeled by Khayrbak at the time of the building of his adjacent mosque and tomb (no. 248) in the early sixteenth century. The massive stone structure of the palace is today roofless and ruinous, although its outline remains clear. There is a square-headed portal on the western side with overhanging horizontal muqarnas decoration, stables on the ground floor, and a vast qa‘a on the first floor with two enormous arched iwans (similar in style to those of the Bashtak Palace [no. 34]). Between the palace itself and the mosque of Khayrbak lie the partially ruined remains of a separate zawiya with its original entrance between the palace and the mosque (see U57). To the south, the palace is flanked by the hawd of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan (no. 593). The Bulletin of 1915–19 mistakenly lists no. 249 as the hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, which is either a mislocation of no. 260 or a misattribution of the hawd of Ibrahim Agha. Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, 67 References: Creswell 1919, 151; Lézine 1971, 16; Lézine 1972b, 80–83, 130; Revault and Maury 1977, 61–76; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 314; Meinecke 1992, II:173; Seton-Watson 2000, 115–19; O’Kane 2000, 156–57, 161 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1933–35, 314–15
250 Mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi AH 785 / AD 1383 Aytmish was an amir of Sultan Barquq who subseMap sheet quently became the regent for Barquq’s son Farag. 8 When Farag came to rule in his own right, Aytmish fled Cairo and was killed in Damascus in AD 1400. His (empty) tomb chamber in this mosque has a distinctive spiral-ribbed brick-and-plaster dome with an inscription at its base. The main façade has a high-level inscription band; two further inscription bands at low and high level adorn the main portal. This is flanked to the northwest by a sabil, on the corner of the block leading to the Bab al-Wazir. The sabil has a fine inscription and cup blazon on its wooden lintel, but the grille below is not original and the ground level has now risen beyond the bottom of the window into the sabil. There also seems at one time to have been a projecting balcony running along the northwestern corner of the building. The Comité restored the stonework on the northern façade and introduced steel ties into the main façade to counteract its outward inclination. The interior of the mosque is plain, with a newly tiled mihrab, a damaged painted wood ceiling over the main iwan, and a roof with lantern over the sahn. Aytmish’s foundation originally
included a funduq/rab‘ adjacent to his mosque, part of which may survive in the structure to the right of the main façade, which comprises shop units at ground-floor level and a qa‘a on the first floor. Also included in the foundation was a hawd and another rab‘ outside the Bab al-Wazir (see no. 251 below). Plan: Kessler 1971 and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 116; Mostafa 1982, 94–96; Fernandes 1987b, 91–93; Seton-Williams and Stocks, 1988, 314; Meinecke 1992, II: 267–68; O’Kane 2000, 160; Seton-Watson 2000, 124–26 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 19–20; BCCMAA 1895, 81; BCCMAA 1898, 99–100; BCCMAA 1899, 124, 126–27; BCCMAA 1901, 23; BCCMAA 1907, 51; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 13; BCCMAA 1915–19, 115–17, 355, 359, 372, 493, 584–85, 799
251 Hawd-kuttab of Aytmish al-Bagasi AH 785 / AD 1383 This listing is the subject of some confusion. A Map sheet hawd-kuttab stands on the site opposite the complex 8 of Tarabay (see no. 255), to which it is joined by the Bab al-Wazir. The hawd appears to comprise two parts: an enclosed room with a plastered-brick water tank faced in stone; and an external re-entrant wall to the southeast with a lengthy inscription above what must once have been the site of a watering trough. This latter, external part of the hawd would appear to be Aytmish’s original foundation, while the room containing the water tank (roofed with a stone groin vault) may be a later construction, perhaps contemporary with the Bab al-Wazir itself. The kuttab above is separately accessed from a staircase to the right of the enclosed tank-room, and has typical double-arched openings on each of its main elevations. The Bulletin of 1915–19 describes this listing as “porte, abreuvoir et kouttâb” of Tarabay, which indicates that the hawd-kuttab and gate were seen as contemporary with the complex of Tarabay (no. 255) to the north.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Watson 2000, 124 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 5 (inscription); BCCMAA 1903, 54 (kuttab); BCCMAA 1909, 88 (kuttab); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 156; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804
255 Door, tomb, and sabil-kuttab of Tarabay al-Sharifi AH 909 / AD 1503 This is a fine example of very late Mamluk funerary Map sheet architecture, built by an amir who was chief of the 8 corps of mamluks at the time. Between the mausoleum of Azdumur to the north (no. 113) and the tomb chamber of Tarabay is a vaulted corridor. The tomb chamber (restored by the Comité in 1905), which has a carved masonry dome, is entered from an inscribed portal to the south that faces onto a small courtyard. A separate stone vaulted room adjacent to this entrance leads to the sabil, which is also vaulted in stone. The sabil room has a fine inlaid black-and-white marble floor in
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a zigzag pattern, a marble well head, and a deep muqarnasheaded stone niche, which may constitute a salsabil emplacement. To the west of the sabil is a derelict entrance (the door mentioned in the listing) to what may have been a khanqah attached to the complex. The kuttab has not survived. The fact that the western façade of the tomb has a minute street-versus-qibla adjustment indicates that a street ran on this side of the complex past the mausoleum of Azdumur, and that this area outside the Ayyubid walls was far more urbanized than it is now. Random excavations to the west of the complex in 2000 revealed that the masonry walls of the tomb extend to a depth of some three meters below current ground level. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Pauty 1929, 150 (muqarnas); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 314–15; Creswell 1919, 153; Meinecke 1992, II:453 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 10–11; BCCMAA 1895, 81–82; BCCMAA 1897, 25–26; BCCMAA 1904, 7; BCCMAA 1907, 51; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 156; BCCMAA 1915–19, 696, 783; BCCMAA 1936–40, 103, 105
256 Qubbat al-Komi Map sheet
15
Tenth century AH / Fifteenth century AD The building lies buried in a mound of earth and rubbish that is used as a passage between two streets. The tomb chamber is stone, surmounted with a plain plastered-brick dome.
Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1905, 48 (classification); BCCMAA 1915–19, 800
257 Bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh AH 821–23 / AD 1418–20 This hospital was the next to be built in Cairo after Map sheet Qalawun’s on the Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 43). The site 8 and 9 was previously occupied by the madrasa of Sultan al-Ashraf Sha’ban, founded in AD 1375, which was demolished by Sultan Farag ibn Barquq in 1411. The bimaristan is distinguished by a massive crenelated façade with a raised portal, heavy stone strapwork in the form of a chain, and inlaid kufic inscriptions. The portal itself has a deep muqarnas hood, below which is a window divided by a pair of colonnettes with a snake (the ubiquitous symbol of healing) carved around them. This vast building is today a shell, and has lost many sections of its outlying structure. The area in front of the façade is a wasteland, recently leveled for the second time its history by the SCA; it was previously the site of the Ottoman-period alSukkari mosque (no. 137), which was demolished to permit a full appreciation of the bimaristan’s façade.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 247 References: Creswell 1919, 122; Hampikian 1981; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 316; Meinecke 1992, II:324; Seton-Watson 2000, 128–42 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 121–22 (classification); BCCMAA
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1896, 17–19, 38–39, 163–64; BCCMAA 1898, 36; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 128; BCCMAA 1911, 15, 49, 60, 65, 104; BCCMAA 1912, 85; BCCMAA 1913, 13, 71, 72; BCCMAA 1914, 77, 101; BCCMAA 1915–19, 124–27, 308, 319, 362, 399, 801; BCCMAA 1920–24, 71, 75, 157, 175, 258; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 21, 118, 122; BCCMAA 1936–40, 224, 225, 226, 260; BCCMAA 1941–45, 290; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 14, 33, 46, 63, 185, 186, 197
258 Zawiya of Hasan al-Rumi AH 929 / AD 1522 This small Sufi zawiya, now buried some two meters Map sheet below ground level, has a fine pointed arch portal 9 with cushioned voussoirs and the remains of an elaborate inscription over its door. Another inscription survives over the window to the left of the entrance. The lefthand corner of the façade is chamfered, while that on the right has a carved stone column embellishing it. There seems to have been a sabil emplacement originally on this side of the building, but most ancillary structures have now been demolished.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif 1990, 49–55; Behrens-Abouseif and Fernandes 1984, 111–12; Fernandes 1985 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 73; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 74; BCCMAA 1912, 105; BCCMAA 1915–19, 799; BCCMAA 1946–53, 75–76, 290
260 Sabil and hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda Before AH 1164 / AD 1750 The sabil component of this listing appears to have Map sheet disappeared, while the hawd is today occupied by 8 workshops and living units. The bipartite façade has two large arches supported by a central granite column. Two flanking openings have been blocked up. The two brick domes in the interior, supported on stone arches, have collapsed, and the roof is a temporary wooden structure. The two rear arches and granite column to the rear of the building, mirroring the façade, are intact. Plan: Sameh 1946, 105 References: Sameh 1946, 104–5; Raymond 1972, 242 (no. 10); Raymond 1979a, 277 (no. 99) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 96, 152, 174; BCCMAA 1900, 26; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 3; BCCMAA 1915–19, 796
261 Qubbat al-Muzaffar ‘Alam al-Din Sangar AH 722 / AD 1322 The ribbed stone dome of this tiny mausoleum is Map sheet one of the earliest in Cairo; the structure was orig23 inally attached to a now-vanished mosque. The dome has an inscription band around its base, and there is another inscription inside the building. A new apartment block looms over the mausoleum, and this has actually sliced into the earlier structure. A further threat is posed by the
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surface ground water and the fact that the tomb is now some two meters underground. Plan: Kessler, 1971 References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 331; Meinecke 1992, II:133–34 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1909, 48; BCCMAA 1910, 26, 116; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 132; BCCMAA 1915–19, 92–94, 801; BCCMAA 1946–53, 286
262 Sabil in the waqf of Yusuf Bey AH 1186 / AD 1772 This building should not be confused with another Map sheet sabil of the same name (no. 219). Any kuttab that 23 may have been attached to this sabil has now disappeared, and the surviving inscription band is empty. The portal has a square muqarnas hood, and simple strapwork frames the façade. The bronze grilles and wooden shutters in the sabil’s window openings are intact.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Raymond 1979a, 283 (no. 115) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 75 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 166; BCCMAA 1913, 87; BCCMAA 1914, 129; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 51, 69; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39
263 Tomb of Hasan Sadaqa AH 715–21 / AD 1315–21 Properly known as the tomb of the amir Sunqur alMap sheet Sa‘di (a mamluk of al-Nasir Muhammad), this com23 plex was originally constructed as a madrasa for women, with an attached tomb. Shaykh Hasan Sadaqa was a contemporary of the amir Sunqur, with whom he shares the tomb. The minaret and transition zone of the dome have very fine stucco decoration. The portal is trilobed, with an ablaq conch supported by muqarnas squinches. Below this is a small window flanked by a curious arrangement of miniature columns. The mihrab internally is notable for its enormous size. The madrasa was subsequently built over by the Mevlevi takiya, which created their samakhana here in 1857 (U105). The ongoing work of the Italian-Egyptian team on the entire complex has exposed and displayed an interesting ‘fountain court’ surrounded by living units directly beneath the samakhana—part of the original madrasa. A small detail of interest is the hilal on top of the minaret that takes the form of a Mevlevi Sufi hat— no doubt their substitution for the more conventional crescent.
Plan: Courtesy Guiseppe Fanfoni References: Creswell 1919, 92–93; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Creswell 1959, 267–69; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 78; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 331–33; Meinecke 1992, II:118–19, 130, 134. See also listings for U105 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 75–76 (classification); BCCMAA 1910, 90; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 74; BCCMAA 1915–19, 80, 106, 543, 553, 695, 764, 803; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 69; BCCMAA 1930–32, 270; BCCMAA 1933–35, 103, 105; Fanfoni and Burri 1980
265 Sabil-kuttab and rab‘ of al-Qizlar AH 1028 / AD 1618 This is an interesting example of an Ottoman Map sheet sabil-kuttab that is combined with living units and 23 shops, built by a black eunuch of the Ottoman court called Mustafa Agha. The composition of the façade has the sabil-kuttab occupying its center. To the left are two shop units and the staircase that leads to the apartments; to the right are a further three shops and the arched and vaulted entrance passage that must once have led to a large courtyard behind the building (now vanished). The sabil has a bronze grille and a painted wood ceiling. The building was most recently restored by the SCA in 2003–04.
Plan: Depaule et al. 1985, 46 References: Pauty 1936, 23 Raymond 1979a, 246 (no. 16); Depaule et al. 1985 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 20; BCCMAA 1890, 86, BCCMAA 1892, 109–10; BCCMAA 1894, 90; BCCMAA 1901, 107; BCCMAA 1902, 116, 152–54 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 98; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802; BCCMAA 1946–53, 183
266 Palace of Yashbak 731–38 / AD 1330–37 This vast palace was originally built by the amir Map sheet Qawsun, the son-in-law and cup-bearer of Sultan 16 and 23 al-Nasir Muhammad. Yashbak min Mahdi was an important amir of Qaytbay’s; it was he who subsequently restored the building 150 years later. The most striking feature of the palace, apart from its enormous scale, is the entrance portal (with a deep muqarnas hood and inlaid marble decoration), which is located at the extreme eastern end of the building. Many parts of the internal stucture have collapsed, and most of what must have been a courtyard on the south side is now occupied by school buildings. The remains of a later extension to the palace executed by the amir Aqbardi can still be seen (they are shown hatched on map sheet 23), although the interior is currently inaccessible. AH
Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, 34, 37 References: Creswell 1919, 98–100; Pauty 1933b, 42–43; Lézine 1972b, 95–98, 130; Revault and Maury 1977, 31–48; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 333; Meinecke 1992, II,179; Blair and Bloom 1995, 94; Karim 2002, 30; O’Kane 2000, 157, 161 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 105–6; BCCMAA 1900, 47–48; BCCMAA 1902, 16, 22; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 164; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804, 840; BCCMAA 1920–24, 230; Pauty 1931b, 161 n. 2; BCCMAA 1933–35, 59, 61, 82, 88, 237, 239, 374
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267
269
Palace of the amir Taz
Madrasa of Bashir Agha al-Gumdar
753 / AD 1352 The amir Sayf al-Din Taz al-Nasiri (d. AD 1362) was Map sheet one of the many sons-in-law of Sultan al-Nasir 23 Muhammad and a powerful amir of Sultan Hasan. He also endowed a madrasa (still extant) in Jerusalem. The site of his palace in Cairo currently comprises two large open spaces, extending the width of an entire block from east to west. The enormous maq‘ad on the southern end of the site dates from the seventeenth century, as do various other elements around its perimeter. The palace was converted into a girls’ school under Khedive Isma‘il; it currently serves as storerooms for the Ministry of Education. Of the Mamluk parts of the palace, only the entrance portal and the ruins of an enormous qa‘a adjacent to the maq‘ad at first-floor level survive. The portal is trilobed, with a muqarnas hood and squinches, and leads to a cross-vaulted hall. The qa‘a still preserves a part of its painted wood inscription band on its eastern wall, which has been exposed by the collapse of the remainder of the room. It is recorded that the construction of the palace for Taz was overseen by a friend: Mangak al-Yusufi. A restoration of the complex was commenced by the SCA in 2002 and was still ongoing in 2004.
AH 761 / AD 1359 This seems a very small building to be worthy of the Map sheet description of ‘madrasa.’ The façade is tripartite and 23 crenelated. The muqarnas portal has a porphyry lintel. Immediately inside the entrance is an ornately painted wood dikka supported by two marble columns. The mihrab has simple strapwork around it, and there is a plain wood ceiling over the prayer space.
AH
Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, 54 References: Creswell 1919, 105–6; Pauty 1933b, 43; Lézine 1972b, 105–8, 130; Revault and Maury 1977, 49–60; Burgoyne 1987, 399–400 (for biography); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 334; Meinecke 1992, II:218 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 56–58; BCCMAA 1891, 23–24; BCCMAA 1892, 16; BCCMAA 1894, 15, 38–39, 82, 93, 101, 112, 132–33; BCCMAA 1900, 57–58; BCCMAA 1904, 23; BCCMAA 1907, 49–50; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 157; BCCMAA 1914, 60; BCCMAA 1915–19, 514, 804; BCCMAA 1927–29, 187; BCCMAA 1936–40, 8, 57; BCCMAA 1946–53, 290
268 Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada AH 1088 / AD 1677 The founder of this complex was chief black eunuch Map sheet at the Ottoman court. The sabil has many surviving 23 original features, including a bronze grille, wooden shutters, decorative stonework, a painted wood ceiling, and a salsabil. Entrance is gained through a simple trilobed portal.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 257 (no. 45) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 24; BCCMAA 1910, 10, 35; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 17; BCCMAA 1915–19, 796, 819; BCCMAA 1925–26, 17, 51, 70
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 110; Meinecke 1992, II:230 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 29–30; BCCMAA 1889, 56; BCCMAA 1909, 48; BCCMAA 1910, 125; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 35; BCCMAA 1915–19, 106–7, 797; BCCMAA 1920–24, 96, 257
270 Tomb of Safi al-Din Gawhar AH 714 / AD 1315 Gawhar al-Nasiri was the chief eunuch of Sultan Map sheet al-Nasir Muhammad. His small tomb, also com24 monly referred to as the tomb of al-Modani, is part of an unusual rectangular structure that also includes an entrance porch and a small praying room. The level of the ground has risen by approximately two and a half meters around the tomb, which is often flooded. The tomb has crenellations and an inscription on its façade, and is covered by a plastered dome with unusual glass inserts.
Plan: Creswell 1959, 266 References: Creswell 1919, 92; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Creswell 1959, 266–67; ‘Abd al-Wahab 1965, 95–96; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 335; Meinecke 1992, II:117; O’Kane 2000, 167 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 37–38; BCCMAA 1889, 64; BCCMAA 1894, 52, 55, 123–24, 131–32; BCCMAA 1895, 73–74, 85; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 67; BCCMAA 1915–19, 798
272 Sabil, zawiya, and wikala of Mustafa Bey Tabtabay AH 1047 / AD 1637 Little survives of this once large complex. The sabil Map sheet is the most obvious remnant, with a single bronze 24 grille on its north façade, together with a tiled lunette and decorative strapwork. There is no kuttab. The shops on the street façade of the wikala are all in use, and the corbels remain in position for the now-absent upper story. There is no discernible courtyard of the wikala, which is occupied by squatters, and there is no sign of the zawiya that is part of this listing.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 34; Raymond 1979a, 250 (no. 28); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 294 (no. 331) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1888, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 131; BCCMAA 1915–19, 515, 801; BCCMAA 1930–32, 271
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(277) Tomb of ‘Ali al-Gizi Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This small tomb and mosque are located close to Map sheet the mosque of Sayyida ‘Ayesha (no. 378). The build10 ing has been completely modernized with new stone facings and structural modifications. It was deregistered sometime after 1924. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 53; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 18; BCCMAA 1915–19, 796; BCCMAA 1920–24, 373
278 Bab Qaytbay (al-Qarafa) AH 899 / AD 1494 Originally thought to be a rebuilding by Sultan Map sheet Qaytbay of the Ayyubid Bab al-Qarafa, this gate 10 has been proved to be a separate construction (the Ayyubid gate lies some thirty meters to the south, off the limits of this map). The cartouches of Qaytbay are still visible in the spandrels of the archway of the gate. Slightly to the southeast are the remains of the sixteenth-century tomb of Timurbay al-Husayni (monument no. 161). Rabbat (1995) states that the gateway was demolished in the 1970s during the construction of the Salah Salim Highway, and then rebuilt in 1987.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 146; Creswell 1959, 57–58; Meinecke 1992, II:437 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1896, 154; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 94; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802; BCCMAA 1941–45, 186, 221–22, 245, 259, 268, 291, 321, 338, 340; Rabat 1995, 194
References: Creswell 1919, 128–29; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 101; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 376–77; Meinecke 1992, II:213 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 57; BCCMAA 1896, 11; BCCMAA 1902, 52; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 119; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800
289 Mausoleum of al-Sultaniya Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD It has been suggested that this complex, whose Map sheet founder is unnamed, was built by the mother of Sultan 3 Hasan, but the attribution does not accord with the date of construction derived from stylistic analysis. The twin stone domes of the complex stand on either side of a vaulted iwan. These domes are remarkable in their design, being raised on high drums, with a return on the curve of their profile. The surface of the domes (one of which was entirely reconstructed by the Comité from the top of the drum up) are treated with a rib-andfillet pattern. Inscription bands in geometric kufic run around the bases of the domes, and the eastern dome has foliate carving on its drum below the level of the inscription. The domes are analogous in design to those of the mosque of Sarghatmish (no. 218), and Yunus al-Dawadar (no. 139). The layout of the complex was probably similar to that of the nearby mausoleum complex of Qawsun (no. 291); a minaret (no. 288) was originally attached to it. Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Creswell 1919, 128–29; Pauty 1929, 148 and pl. vii.27 (muqarnas); Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 101; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 376–77; Meinecke 1992, II:213 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 77, 83; BCCMAA 1895, 57; BCCMAA 1896, 11; BCCMAA 1902, 52; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 153; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800; BCCMAA 1933–35, 253; BCCMAA 1936–40, 56, 105, 107
290
(287) Remains of the rab‘ of Tughugh Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD This now-demolished Mamluk rab‘ is shown in Map sheet 22 and 23 photographs in the Bulletin (1911, pl. vii) as a vast multistory dwelling occupying nos. 130–46, Shari‘ al-Siyufiya. Plan: SCA Archive References: None Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], xlv (with no prior references); BCCMAA 1911, 110–11, 132–34 (historical notice)
288
Khanqah and minaret of Qawsun AH 736 / AD 1335–36 The minaret seems to have been a part of the large Map sheet khanqah complex built by the amir Qawsun that also 3 and 10 included his mausoleum, which is listed separately (no. 291) The minaret has a square base and bears an inscription with the name of Qawsun on the doorway opening onto the first gallery. The khanqah has today substantially disappeared.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:65 References: Creswell 1919, 97–98; Ibrahim 1974; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 84–85; Meinecke 1992, II:170; Karim 2002, 30 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 57; BCCMAA 1896, 11; BCCMAA 1902, 52; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 7
North minaret of al-Sultaniya Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD This three-tiered minaret, now freestanding, was Map sheet once attached to the complex of the same name 3 located slightly to the east (see no. 289). It is not known whether it had a symmetrical companion minaret to the south. Plan: Kessler, 1971
291 Mausoleum of Qawsun Map sheet
3
AH 736 / AD 1335–36 The amir Qawsun, a mamluk of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, married one of the sultan’s daughters and rose to great power after his death. Remains of a mosque, palace, and wikala constructed by
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Qawsun can be seen on other map sheets (respectively: nos. 202 and 224 [map sheet 22], no. 11 [map sheet 18], and no. 266 [map sheets 16/23]). This stone ribbed dome, with an inscription band, stands today in isolation—an appearance that is altogether misleading since it is the sole survivor of a pair of domes that originally flanked the prayer hall attached to Qawsun’s khanqah on this site (the khanqah may have borne an architectural resemblance to the khanqah of Farag ibn Barquq in the northern cemetery [monument no. 149]). A minaret that was part of the complex survives (see no. 290). Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:65 References: Creswell 1919, 97–98; Pauty 1929, 146 (muqarnas); Ibrahim 1974, 37–57; Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 84–85; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 377; Meinecke 1992, II:170; Karim 2002, 30 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 57; BCCMAA 1896, 11; BCCMAA 1902, 52; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 7; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802, 836
303 Mausoleum of Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar AH 901 / AD 1495–96 The domed mausoleum is paired with a vaulted cisMap sheet tern in this unusual building, which was construct2 ed by an amir of Sultan Qaytbay. The entrance façade has a lengthy inscription band, set within elaborate strapwork panels, that commemorates the Mamluk victory over the Ottomans at Adana in AD 1486. On this façade can also be seen the feeder-point for water deliveries to the tank below. The trilobed portal has now lost whatever stairs led up to it and consequently is no longer accessible. The building is today separated from the enclosure of the Citadel by the Salah Salim highway, and it stands high up on a spur of rock. To the east are the partially demolished remains of the viaduct that led up to the fortress of Muhammad ‘Ali atop the Muqattam Hills.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 149; Rogers 1978, 737; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 367; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 147–48; Meinecke 1992, II:439; Lyster 1993, 37 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 12, 18, 19, 84; BCCMAA 1892, 12; BCCMAA 1909, 58; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 161; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804
305 Well of Salah al-Din (Bir Yusuf) AH 572–89 / AD 1176–93 Known familiarly as the Bir Yusuf, this well was dug Map sheet by Crusader prisoners of Salah al-Din through 9 eighty-seven meters of rock to the water table. The well-shaft itself is surrounded by a spiral ramp that descends to the two lower levels, where oxen would have worked waterwheels to raise the water to the surface. To the immediate south of the well are two Ottoman-period faceted stone towers.
Plan: SCA Archive / CMP Survey for towers (ground floor for east tower and first floor for west tower) References: Creswell 1919, 71–72; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 371; Lyster 1993, 11, 102; Rabbat 1995, 31–32, 56, 59, 61, 63–64, 190, 196
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 46, 64; BCCMAA 1906, 76–77; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 165; BCCMAA 1915–19, 804; BCCMAA 1946–53, 211
307 Ayyubid wall 566–72 / AD 1171–76 The listing ‘307’ used to include the entire extent of Multiple the Ayyubid city walls according to the 1924 Map of sheets Mohammedan Monuments. This appears to have been omitted from the current edition of the map, which gives the Ayyubid sections of the wall the number 352, which should properly be reserved for the Fatimid wall between the Bab al-Nasr and the Bab al-Futuh extending slightly to the west of the latter gate (see below and no. 352). The number 307 is used here and throughout this catalogue and map, in accordance with the 1924 Map, to denote the Ayyubid rather than the Fatimid wall. AH
Listing and conservation (generally): BCCMAA 1896, 134–37; BCCMAA 1897, 61–62, 157; BCCMAA 1898, 32–33; BCCMAA 1900, 78–79; BCCMAA 1902, 27, 32, 75 (survey work); BCCMAA 1907, 93–94, 123–24; BCCMAA 1908, 96; BCCMAA 1910, 60, 78–79, 119; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 132, 167; BCCMAA 1915–19, 345, 353, 360, 404, 453, 529, 556, 584, 748, 762; BCCMAA 1920–24, 36, 44, 66, 96, 117, 127, 186, 360, 363; BCCMAA 1936–40, 212, 215, 266, 333; BCCMAA 1941–45, 14, 18, 83, 86, 90, 92, 126, 144, 151, 153, 162, 185, 220, 240, 290, 340; BCCMAA 1946–53, 192, 207, 254, 309, 342, 371, 381, 415, 421 (eastern wall)
The Burg al-Zafar, or ‘Tower of Triumph,’ is the circular corner-tower of Salah al-Din’s stone defences 4 at their northeasternmost point. This tower has a great stone-vaulted room (currently inaccessible) at its heart. One round-fronted tower also survives immediately to the west of the Burg al-Zafar. Also shown here are the Bab al-Gedid (‘the New Gate’), which had a bent entrance (now largely hidden), two round-fronted towers to the south of this gate, and one to the north. Map sheet
Plans: Creswell 1959, 50 (Burg al-Zafar), 51 (tower to west of Burg alZafar), 46 (Bab al-Gedid), 45 (towers south of the Bab al-Gedid), 48 (tower north of the Bab al-Gedid. The second tower south of the Bab al-Gedid has its upper floor plan shown, while the others have their lower floor plans represented. References: Creswell 1919, 66–69; Creswell 1959, 49–51 (Burg al-Zafar), 51–52 (tower to west of the Burg al-Zafar), 45–48 (Bab al-Gedid and other towers); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 227; Warner 1999, 290 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 6–7; BCCMAA 1889, 131–32 and pls. IV–VII; BCCMAA 1898, 36–37; BCCMAA 1900, 28; BCCMAA 1902, 25; BCCMAA 1905, 38; BCCMAA 1907, 21; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 167; BCCMAA 1946–53, 98, 118–19, 141, 207
The Ayyubid walls adjoin the Bab al-Nasr, and continue, albeit with ruptures, up to the Burg al-Zafar 11 (map sheet 4) before returning at 90 degrees and heading south. One of the intervening round-fronted towers was surveyed by Creswell, and the plan is included here. A large-scale urban clearance and environmental enhancement Map sheet
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project has been taking place to the east of the Bab al-Nasr since 1999, adjacent to and including the walls, which are being largely rebuilt. This has resulted in the complete physical separation of the wall from its context. Plan: Creswell 1959, 52 References: Creswell 1919, 66–69; Creswell 1959, 52–53; BehrensAbouseif 1989, 67–71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 102; BCCMAA 1902, 119; BCCMAA 1903, 53; BCCMAA 1904, 17–18; BCCMAA 1906, 18; BCCMAA 1909, 116–17; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 132; BCCMAA 1946–53, 145, 191, 194, 254, 309
The walls in this sector extend west to the Bab alShariya and east to the Bab al-Futuh. The section 25 of wall shown on this sheet includes a roughly pentagonal corner-tower and a round-fronted tower in a re-entrant angle of the wall. The break in the wall at the Bab al-Shariya is marked with a plaque. From the Bab alShariya the wall continued west toward the Bab al-Hadid (near the present-day Midan Ramsis), and sections of it can be seen at various points along its route. Map sheet
Map sheet
7
This section of Salah al-Din’s defensive wall linking the citadel to the Fatimid city includes one more round-fronted tower, which is the first tower to the north of the Bab al-Mahruq.
Plan: SCA Archive References: See no. 307, map sheets 4, 5, 6, and 14 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 35
This section of the wall includes the Bab al-Mahruq (previously named the Bab al-Qarratin), and three 14 round-fronted towers to the south. The site was excavated from 1998 to 2000 with a view to restoration by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, ongoing in 2004. Map sheet
Plan: Creswell 1959, 43 (Bab al-Mahruq); SCA Archive for other towers References: Creswell 1959, 42–43; Pradines, Michaudel, and Monchamp 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 88–89; BCCMAA 1900, 48; BCCMAA 1907, 65; BCCMAA 1920–24, 321, 360, 363, 366; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16–17; BCCMAA 1936–40, 348, 350
This section of the Ayyubid wall of Cairo was not recorded by Creswell , since it lay beneath rubbish 5 mounds until recently. Excavations from the 1980s have, however, revealed a section of wall some 200 meters long with one small round-fronted tower and one large round-fronted tower. The latter has a unique hexagonal double-height vaulted space (substantially collapsed) at its center. A small fragment of this wall can also be seen to the south, adjacent to the Bab al-Tawfiq (U10).
The eastern wall continues here with a further three round-fronted towers (more or less heavily 8 reconstructed by the Comité) and what appear to be the remains of a fourth round-fronted tower on the approach road to the Bab al-Wazir. There is a thickening of the wall immediately to the east of the Palace of Alnaq (see no. 249 above), caused by the later period construction of what may have been arched stone stable units on the outside of the wall, one of which is indicated on the plan here. The exact route that the wall took on its continuation south to the Citadel is conjectural. Two elements are most probably associated with it in some way: the mausoleum of Ragab alShirazi (built over a tower: see no. 476) and a large tower in the lower enclosure of the Citadel (U101).
Plan: CMP Survey References: Warner 1999, 289–90, 294–95 Listing and conservation: None
Plan: SCA Archive References: See no. 307, map sheets 4, 5, 6, 7, and 14 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 32
Plan: Creswell 1959, 53 and 54 References: Creswell 1919, 66–69; Creswell 1959, 53–55 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 11–12
Map sheet
This wall on this sheet is a continuation of the wall running from the Burg al-Zafar to the Citadel. 6 Clearance of the adjacent rubbish mounds and the interior of the Burg al-Maqlab (the round corner tower at the entrance to the Darb al-Mahruq) commenced in 1998 as part of the development of the Darrasa rubbish mounds as a park (by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture). The round corner-tower shares characteristics in scale and construction with the Burg al-Zafar to the north (map sheet 4). The clearance has also so far exposed four round-fronted towers (one of which is demolished) and a gateway in the wall. Part of this wall, excavated in the 1940s, was given an erroneous number and attribution, which still persists in the Index of Monuments (see no. 614). Map sheet
Plan: Creswell 1959, 44 (for Burg al-Maqlab and first tower to south); CMP Survey and Aga Khan Trust for Culture (for remainder of wall) References: Creswell 1959, 43–45; Sayyid 1998, 634–43; Warner 1999, 295–96; Pradines, Michaudel, and Monchamp 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1905, 74
Map sheet
308 Takiya and sabil-kuttab of Sultan Mahmud AH 1164 / AD 1750 The layout of this building—a raised arcaded Map sheet courtyard built above shops—resembles that of 29 the much earlier takiya of Sulayman Pasha (no. 225). It differs from its predecessor, however, in that it has a bow-fronted sabil-kuttab added onto its southern end. It was built for Sultan Mahmud by the black eunuch Bashir Agha, who had already built his own foundation (the sabil-kuttab, no. 309) opposite. The crenellated façades of the building have two continuous decorative bands of arabesques running around them, and there are three portals. The main portal, which leads into a domed vestibule with stairs leading up to the raised courtyard, is a pointed arch with cushioned voussoirs, decorative strapwork framing, tiled inlay panels, flanking marble columns, and marble inscriptions. The portal leading to the sabil, also on the west elevation, is of simpler
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design, with surrounding strapwork and decorative banding. The third portal, located on the south elevation, gives access to a staircase leading to the kuttab and is flanked by marble columns, over which stands a pointed arch with a decorative strapwork and banded frame. The courtyard has a central baldachin on four columns at its center, and is surrounded by an arcade of columns that relates to an outer ring of cell units with shallow pendentive domes. There is a small zawiya on the north side. The interior of the building is now occupied by the offices of the main inspectorate of the SCA’s Coptic and Islamic Section (South Sector). The sabil’s interior with blueand-white Iznik-style tiles has an inlaid-marble floor and decorative painted wood ceiling. The windows to the sabil have been half bricked-up, but two of their fine floral-style bronze grilles are intact. The arcade around the kuttab above has been enclosed with a modern glazed screen with stainedglass stucco grille overpanels, but the double eaves (the upper of which is scalloped) following the curved plan of the sabil, are unaltered. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 313 References: Pauty 1936, 25–26; Raymond 1979a, 273 (no. 90); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 344; Bates 1991, 161–64; Raymond 1991, 355–56, 357; Raymond 1999, 381 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 59; BCCMAA 1899, 21, 53; BCCMAA 1902, 104; BCCMAA 1903, 23; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 110; BCCMAA 1911, 37, 69; BCCMAA 1913, 33; BCCMAA 1915–19, 503, 780; BCCMAA 1925–26, 68; BCCMAA 1946–53, 143, 291, 347, 379, 381
309 Sabil-kuttab of Bashir Agha Dar Sa‘ada AH 1131 / AD 1718 This sabil-kuttab was built by the black eunuch Bashir Agha along traditional Mamluk lines, before he underMap sheet took the construction of the adjacent takiya of 29 Sultan Mahmud (no. 308). It has original bronze grilles with intact shutters and marble basins behind and marble slabs in front of them. A further marble basin with a bronze grille above it flanks the entrance portal on the west façade. The building was extensively restored by the Comité—so much so that it is unclear which (and how many) of the features in the interior are original.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 264–65 (no. 67); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 315 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 52–53; BCCMAA 1891, 105–6; BCCMAA 1892, 9–10; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 34; BCCMAA 1915–19, 793, 822
311 Sabil in the waqf of Kulsun Before AH 1110 / AD 1689 This Ottoman sabil has a finely decorated interior Map sheet that belies its rather run-down external appear29 ance. The sabil would seem to have been part of a wikala (see U79), of which the vaulted entrance and courtyard arches are still visible. The interior is extremely ornate, with a painted wood ceiling, deep cornice, and flat wooden muqarnas niche-heads on the flank walls, as well as a muqarnas hood to the missing salsabil. There is an inlaid marble floor and marble basin by the window grille. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 261 (no. 58) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 106; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 15; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 70; BCCMAA 1913, 50; BCCMAA 1915–19, 793; BCCMAA 1946–53, 143
312 Khanqah of Sa‘ad al-Din ibn Ghurab AH 803–8 / AD 1400–6 This building, known also as the zawiya of Sa‘ad alMap sheet Din Ibrahim al-Arabi, is today occupied by offices of 29 the SCA. Its designation as ‘khanqah’ is not justified by what remains of the original construction, which is essentially a tomb or zawiya. The current entrance to the building (from the west) is not original. The principal façade and portal are on the east; the latter is inscribed and decorated with marble. Part of this inscription and decoration appears to have been recently stolen. One lintel on a window in the façade is also inscribed. A Comité-style kuttab projection in timber to the south side of the portal has been glazed to make an office. The interior of the zawiya/tomb has the remains of a fine inlaid marble qibla wall and mihrab. There is a long and partly damaged inscription on the walls at high level, and a pair of geometric inlaid marble kufic panels below this. The floor and ceiling are modern, perhaps dating to 1910, when the building was remodeled by the Comité.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1919, 118; Mostafa 1982, 103–5; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 345; Meinecke 1992, II:304 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 12; BCCMAA 1890, 78–79; BCCMAA 1907, 103–4; BCCMAA 1909, 91–92; BCCMAA 1910, 11–12; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 142; BCCMAA 1911, 45, 50, 59, 125–31 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1915–19, 795; BCCMAA 1936–40, 109
(317) Minaret of the mosque of Gaqmaq Before AH 857 / AD 1453 This mosque, originally located between the mouth Map sheet of the Khalig al-Masri and Old Cairo, was destroyed 2 to make way for the al-Malik al-Salih road tunnel. The top of the minaret is reconstructed in the archaeological garden of the Citadel (see U82 below).
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Plan: None References: Creswell 1919, 133 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 74; BCCMAA 1902, 98; BCCMAA 1904, 79; BCCMAA 1905, 11; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 48; BCCMAA 1936–40, 213, 227–29
321 House and sabil of al-Kritliya AH 1041 / AD 1631 This Ottoman courtyard house, together with the Map sheet house of Amna bint Salim (no. 559) opposite it, 24 today form the complex that contains the GayerAnderson Museum. The two houses face each other across an alleyway that leads up to one of the doors into the ziyada of the mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun (no. 220), and are linked at high level by a bridge. The house is unusual in having a large sabil and intact cistern on its corner, adjacent to a bent entrance that leads into a courtyard. Original doorways, decorative stonework, and a maq‘ad are here well preserved. A small tomb on the east side of the house was reconstructed with a new dome by the Comité, together with most of this corner of the building. Of the original rooms of the house, the sabil, maq‘ad, ‘harim room,’ and ‘winter qa‘a’ have impressive decorated ceilings with inscriptions.
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 174 References: Pauty 1936, 24 (sabil); Raymond 1979a, 248 (no. 21); Revault and Maury 1979, 53–76; Maury et al. 1983, 170–80; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 357–58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 100 (classification); BCCMAA 1909, 166–67; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 69; BCCMAA 1912, 4, 15, 31, 85, 89; BCCMAA 1913, 36, 71; BCCMAA 1915–19, 369, 399, 733, 793; BCCMAA 1920–24, 16, 97; BCCMAA 1927–29, 4, 54, 61, 84, 125, 197, 223, 228; BCCMAA 1930–32, 3, 60, 147, 169; BCCMAA 1933–35, 47–48, 260–61, 419; BCCMAA 1941–45, 28, 61, 63, 68, 70, 73, 89, 93, 96, 109, 112, 118, 123, 135, 198, 236; BCCMAA 1946–53, 142, 200, 282, 350
322 Remains of the palace of al-Ghuri AH 906–22 / AD 1501–16 All that survives of al-Ghuri’s palace, located next Map sheet to the important artery of Shari‘ Saliba, that has 24 not been subsumed into a later nineteeth-century palatial structure is a trilobed stone entry portal with cartouches on its spandrels and a fragment of low-level inscription to the right-hand side of the door, which is now bricked up. There is also a section of wall with stone corbels to the left of the door. The stonework was cleaned and repointed in 2000.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Creswell 1919, 157 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 57–58; BCCMAA 1909, 10, 164–65 and pl. iii; BCCMAA 1910, 50–51, 118; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 65; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802
323 Hawd of Shaykhu Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This structure, which abuts the khanqah of Shayku Map sheet (no. 152) may be part of Bilal Agha’s restoration of 23 the complex during the latter part of the seventeenth century. The hawd is derelict, and the ground-floor trough area blocked up, although there is a fine mashrabiya over it at one end of a qa‘a at first-floor level. The coffered wooden ceiling of this room is propped up, and its wall to the street has fallen away. Plan: SCA Archive References: Raymond 1979a, 260–61 (no. 56) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 58–60 (historical note); BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 71; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 46; BCCMAA 1915–19, 798; Pauty 1931b, 165 n. 1
324 Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay AH 884 / AD 1479 To judge from its size, it is likely that this building Map sheet was designed to be rather more than merely a 16 sabil-kuttab, though it is said to be the first example of a freestanding fountain-school in Cairo. The building was the object of extensive remodeling by the Comité, which introduced concrete floors, a terrazzo staircase, and a new wooden kuttab-type element on the façade. The only parts of the building that can be securely identified as being original are the entry portal, sabil façades and interior, and the enormous double cistern below the sabil, accessed by a stone spiral stair. The entry portal and façades, with their lavish stone carving and inlaid marble decoration, are characteristic of the Qaytbay period. The building was restored by a Spanish team in 1998–2000 and now houses the Suzanne Mubarak Centre for Islamic Civilization.
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 258 References: Creswell 1919, 144; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 360; Meinecke 1992, II:418–19 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.) 58–60; BCCMAA 1905, 46; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 85; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802; BCCMAA 1920–24, 146, 230, 300; BCCMAA 1930–32, 53; BCCMAA 1933–35, 201–2; BCCMAA 1946–53, 7–8, 146
325 Gate of the Darb al-Labbana Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD The gate to ‘the Alley of the Milkmaid’ is one of the Map sheet last surviving and most heavily decorated of the 16 ancient gates into the haras of Cairo. Fragments of blue-faience and black-marble inlay attest to the past beauty of this gate, which is essentially a single inner arch with cushioned voussoirs. There is nothing behind the door today, and the adjacent site has been cleared to the ground, awaiting new construction.
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Plan: After Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 326; Meinecke 1992, II:380 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 97; BCCMAA 1892, 21; BCCMAA 1894, 99, 117–18; BCCMAA 1895, 15; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 108; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800
Plan: CMP Survey References: Mostafa 1982, 102–3; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 315; Meinecke 1992, II:293 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 24–25; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 115; BCCMAA 1915–19, 800
326
328
Takiya of Taqi al-Din al-Bistami
Sabil-kuttab of Shahin Agha Ahmad
847 / AD 1443 The only part of this complex that is technically Map sheet listed is the front porch, which was built during the 9 and 16 reign of Sultan Gaqmaq. Behind this lies a reasonably sized complex, including a zawiya, courtyard, and accommodation for Sufis, which may be a later addition. The brotherhood would have consisted of followers of the ninth-century AD mystic Abu Yazid al-Bistami, in whose honor a large foundation was established in Jerusalem in the fourteenth century. In Cairo, al-Nasir Muhammad is known to have constructed a zawiya for Taqi al-Din Ragab al-Bistami in the location of the present foundation. The porch, which is approached from a flight of steps, has a square muqarnas hood and a surviving inscription on the left-hand side. The whole structure is severely dilapidated. There is a projecting wooden section over the door, but the room that was once in this position has collapsed. A long open-roofed corridor leads into the courtyard of the takiya, which has a zawiya on its qibla side. The courtyard, surrounded by disintegrating mashrabiya and derelict cell units, is partly paved, and there are two inscriptions on the wall of the zawiya. The zawiya itself, approached through a simple trilobed stone portal, is a two-columned, tworiwaq hall built partly of brick and partly of stone. Among later accretive structures on the south side of the courtyard are large-scale remnants from the Mamluk period, including a large brick pointed arch. These may be survivals of an earlier zawiya or elements of the adjacent bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh (see no. 257).
AH 1086 / AD 1675 The façade of this building includes not only the Map sheet sabil-kuttab, but also a house and a workshop. The 22 sabil has one original bronze grille and good-quality wooden cupboards internally with an inscribed salsabil. An adjacent decorated stone portal leads to the collapsed stair of the house.
AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Burgoyne 1987, 419 (for biography); Meinecke 1992, II:364; Tantawi 1994, 112–14; Rabbat 1995, 199 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 24–25; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], xxviii; BCCMAA 1913, 129; BCCMAA 1915–19, 803
327 Tomb of Sandal al-Mangaki Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD Sandal al-Mangaki, a Greek eunuch, was the treasMap sheet urer of Sultan Barquq. There is some confusion 8 attached to this listing: both Herz and the Bulletin register it as “the door of the takiya al-Marghani”; this is closer to what exists on the ground today, which is a simple stone portal (now blocked) with no surviving inscription set in a length of original wall. It is presumably all that remains of a once-large complex bordering that of Mangak al-Yusufi (no. 138). The name ‘al-Marghani’ derives from the adjacent nineteenth-century shaykh’s tomb (U55).
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Plan: CMP Survey (sabil and house) References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 255–56 (no. 42); Hanna 1989, 102–3; Badr and Crecelius 1992 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 47 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 43; BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1930–32, 138; BCCMAA 1941–45, 110, 134, 165
329 Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Mustafa al-Muhasibgi AH 1129 / AD 1716 This sabil-kuttab gives a good idea of the height at Map sheet which the grilles to the sabil were originally locat28 ed. The sabil preserves its marble foundation inscription, tiled lunettes, and bronze grille. The kuttab is also intact.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 264 (no. 66) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 49–50 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 124; BCCMAA 1915–19, 781
330 Gate of Malika Safiya AH 1019 / AD 1610 This was one of the entrances into what was probMap sheet ably a garden that surrounded the mosque of 21 Malika Safiya when it was built (see no. 200 above). The garden has since disappeared, but the gate remains: a trilobed portal with muqarnas and strapwork, now sandwiched between larger, more recent constructions.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 330 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 3; BCCMAA 1891, 19; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 142; BCCMAA 1915–19, 783; BCCMAA 1930–32, 8–10
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331 Sabil-kuttab of Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan AH 1167 / AD 1753 This large bow-fronted sabil is erroneously attribMap sheet uted in the Index of Monuments to Ibrahim Bey al28 Kabir. It was actually built by Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan (see Raymond 1979a), and the new attribution is given above. Only the structural shell of the ground floor survives, unroofed and occupied by a carpentry workshop. The bronze grilles to the sabil windows have been removed and their openings bricked up. The ancillary rooms to the north and west of the sabil are modern, probably built over the original structure.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 275–76 (no. 84) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 9–10; BCCMAA 1894 (under the name Isma‘il Bey al–Kabir), 98; BCCMAA 1897, 39; BCCMAA 1898, 78; BCCMAA 1901, 113; BCCMAA 1903, 6, 87–89 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 78; BCCMAA 1915–19, 779, 829; BCCMAA 1946–53, 258–59
332 Takiyat al-Gulshani AH 926 / AD 1519 This building was the first takiya in Cairo, founded Map sheet by the colorful shaykh of the Khalawati order of 21 dervishes, who died in AD 1534, aged over a hundred. Much of the perimeter courtyard structure and façade seems to have been subsequently remodeled, leaving the tomb of the founder as the only original element. The simple trilobed portal, approached by a steep flight of steps and flanked by a drinking spout with an inscribed marble dedication dated AH 1258 (AD 1842), has two inscription bands. Much of the façade to the west has collapsed. The separate stonedomed tomb chamber in the center of the courtyard is lined internally and faced externally with eighteenth-century blueand-white Iznik-style tiles.
Plan: After SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif and Fernandes 1984, 109; Fernandes 1985, 106–10; Behrens-Abouseif 1988a, 43–60; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 275–76; Behrens-Abouseif 1990, 49–55; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 207 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 104 (classification of façade); BCCMAA 1908, 56; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 69; BCCMAA 1915–19, 336, 778; BCCMAA 1920–24, 355; BCCMAA 1936–40, 109
(334) Maq‘ad of the house of al-Manawi AH 1169 / AD 1755 The octagonal marble columns and stone arches of Map sheet this imposing maq‘ad constructed by Ahmad 22 Katkhuda Mustahfizan still survive, although the structure has been converted into residential units. The trilobed stone portal that was the original entrance to the
maq‘ad has been demolished and can be appreciated only in the surviving photographs of this building. The site is now deregistered. Nearby on the Shari‘ al-Surugiya are the remains of a wikala constructed by the same individual (no. [496]). Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933b, 83 (no. 37); Raymond 1979a, 272–73 (no. 89) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 107–8 (classification); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 117; BCCMAA 1913, 41; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1930–32, 147, 164
335 Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abbas Agha AH 1088 / AD 1677 This sabil-kuttab was originally built by ‘Ali Map sheet Katkhuda ‘Azaban and restored by the Ottoman 23 eunuch ‘Abbas Agha in AD 1677. The street façade has two inscriptions and one original window grille. The interior of the sabil has an inlaid marble pavement, salsabil emplacement, and painted wood ceiling. The water tank behind the salsabil survives. A small side chamber in the kuttab extends over the façade of the adjacent wikala (no. 548), which may have housed the teacher employed in the kuttab.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 24; Raymond 1979a, 256 (no. 44); Hathaway 1994, 308 and n. 67 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 41; BCCMAA 1896, 20; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 18; BCCMAA 1915–19, 797; BCCMAA 1930–32, 248
(336) Remains of the palace of Muhammad ibn Souwaydan Map sheet
27
AH 1028 / AD 1618 This listing included a maq‘ad and the ceiling of one of the qa‘as of the palace, but the house was already derelict by the 1930s and was subsequently demolished.
Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 78 (no. 16) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 39 (as house of Burham); Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 139 (as house of Aly Pacha Borhâm); BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33 143, 162
337 Sabil-kuttab of Ruqayya Dudu AH 1174 / AD 1761 Ruqayya Dudu (‘the Parakeet’) was the daughter of Map sheet Bedawiya Shahin (see no. 615); this ornate sabil15 kuttab was built in her memory by her mother. The bow-fronted tripartite façade is flanked by theatrical ‘wings,’ and the stonework is elaborately carved with strapwork and other geometrical devices. Marble columns separate the sabil windows, which have curving bronze grilles. The façade is also embellished with inset panels of blue-and-white tiles. The structure of the kuttab above is similarly elaborate,
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with scalloped wooden eaves and a timber arcade. To the south of the sabil is a ruined domestic structure with the remains of a stucco bathhouse roof at first-floor level. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 335 References: Pauty 1936, 25; Raymond 1979a, 279–80 (no. 105); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 328 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893, 72; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 141; BCCMAA 1911, 108; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1933–35, 157, 171, 179, 390, 394; BCCMAA 1946–53, 349
339
Pauty (in 1931) refers to it as ‘the khan of the embroiderers’ (khan al-Zarakisha). The Comité completely renovated the façade on Midan al-Husayn with new mashrabiya. The structure behind the elaborate façade, however, is derelict and unused today. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 254 References: Scharabi 1978, 161; Meinecke 1992, II:470–71; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 188 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 69–70; BCCMAA 1904, 42–43, 78–79; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 122; BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1930–32, 173; Pauty 1931b, 161 n. 1; BCCMAA 1936–40, 68, 103, 215; BCCMAA 1946–53, 181, 188, 190; SCA 2002, 75–78
Bayt al-Sihaymi 1058–1211 / AD 1648–1796 This courtyard house belonged originally to Shaykh Map sheet al-Tablawi in the seventeenth century, before it 18 passed into the hands of Shaykh al-Sihaymi and his successors; it was known to the Comité as the house of al-Kassabi. It is unusual among Cairene houses not only for its size, but also for the preservation of some ancillary service elements such as a waterwheel and corn mill in a garden behind the house. The garden also contains the reconstructed late-Mamluk tomb of Gamal al-Din, with an unusual pierced dome, moved to this location in 1952. Maury (1983) suggests that this house, together with the house of Mustafa Gaf‘ar (no. 471), and the Khorazati house (U3), may at one time have been parts of a single huge dependency. The house has several large qa‘as, a maq‘ad, and a fine bathhouse. It was heavily restored by the Comité in the 1930s and further restored in 1998–2000.
352
AH
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 208 References: Pauty 1933b, 58–59 (no. 2); Pauty 1936, 37; ‘Abd al-Wahab 1965, 96, 104; Fathy 1969, 145–46; Lézine 1971, 14, 15 (malqaf); Revault 1979, 299–300; Revault and Maury 1979, 93–120; Maury et al. 1983, 205–21; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 234–35; Jaubert 1995, 199 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1890, 44–45; BCCMAA 1905, 77; BCCMAA 1906, 29; BCCMAA 1909, 137; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 123; BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1934, 35; BCCMAA 1936, 36; BCCMAA 1927–29, 215, 223; BCCMAA 1930–32, 36–38, 175, 199, 224, 230, 258–59, 267; BCCMAA 1933–35, 7, 14, 23–36, 30–39, 98–104, 112, 121, 123, 148, 150, 152, 158, 160, 169, 172, 174, 177, 180, 182, 201, 203, 227, 251, 255; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 57, 62, 71, 140, 246, 266, 313; BCCMAA 1941–45, 33, 170, 295, 299, 303, 310; BCCMAA 1946–53, 63–64, 140, 192, 198–99, 281, 314, 316, 328–29; SCA 2002, 199–212
351 Khan al-Zarakisha ca. AH 915 / AD 1509 This building was originally listed by Herz (1914) Map sheet and in the 1915–19 Bulletin as the wikala and 13 ‘kitchen’ of Abu’l Dhahab, but the latter structure was demolished, probably in the construction of the takiya of Abu’l Dhahab (U27) late in the nineteenth century. The khan seems also to have belonged to the Ottoman governor, Sulayman Pasha, in the early sixteenth century.
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Fatimid Wall AH 480 / AD 1087 This listing is here used to cover the Fatimid wall Map sheet between the Bab al-Nasr and the Bab al-Futuh, 18 which also extends some way to the west before being joined by the Ayyubid wall (see no. 307). It is also used for a small part of the wall appearing on map sheet 25 (below). Attached to the section of the wall running between the Bab al-Futuh and the Bab al-Nasr are three large square-fronted towers that are built of ashlar masonry over a rubble core, with columns set into them horizontally to provide reinforcement. The portion of the wall to the west of the Bab al-Futuh includes a square stone tower containing a staircase and a vast chamber with several reused pharaonic stone fragments, and another round-fronted tower. It was this wall that was the object of Creswell’s interest when he achieved, through the agency of the Comité in the 1940s, his aim of urban clearance outside the wall with a view to revealing its true appearance. This process included the demolition of the mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya (no. 558). The listing ‘352’ is applied today to all the city walls of Cairo indiscriminately whether of Fatimid of Ayyubid date, but this map reverts to the distinction found in the 1924 Map of Mohammedan Monuments of Cairo: no. 307 for Ayyubid walls and no. 352 for Fatimid walls.
Plans: Creswell 1952, 191 (square staircase tower), 193 (round-fronted tower) References: Creswell 1919, 54–56; Creswell 1952, 181–96; BehrensAbouseif 1989, 67–71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 69; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 132; BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; BCCMAA 1936–40, 181–96; SCA 2002, 58
This small fragment of wall marks the line of the enceinte of Badr al-Gamali leading to the Bab al25 Qantara (U8). Heavily restored by the Comité, it is included for reference with the same registration number as the Fatimid walls between the Bab al-Nasr and the Bab al-Futuh. On this map sheet, the northwestern corner of the first mud-brick Fatimid enclosure wall of the city, built by Gawhar al-Siqilli, is clearly expressed in the surviving urban fabric, following the street to the north of Shari‘ Amir alGuyush and returning at a right angle heading south.
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Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: see no. 352 (map sheet 18) above Listing and conservation: see no. 352 (map sheet 18) above
(353) Zawiyat al-Arbain Map sheet
23
AH 1267 / AD 1850 This zawiya was located on the Shari‘ Nur alZalam, ‘Atfat al-Matba‘a, no. 5. A modern zawiya on the ground floor of an apartment block stands in this location today.
Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 14–15; BCCMAA 1894, 70; Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 22; BCCMAA 1925–26, 110–11
355 House of ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This listing is for the remaining parts (including a Map sheet sabil) of a formerly large Ottoman domicile, which 20 is arrayed around a courtyard. The sabil, which has a fine painted wooden ceiling, is located on the northwestern corner of the site. The façade of the sabil has stone corbels to the projecting first floor and wooden corbels to the second floor. The upper levels of the building are totally derelict, and the courtyard is used for storage; the sabil is currently occupied by a shop. The courtyard has an Ottoman-style façade at the west, but the main entrance leading to it is obscured by modern shops and is difficult to locate. The qa‘a that is shown on the map plan survives, but was not accessible at the time of writing. Plan: Revault and Maury 1979, 51 References: Pauty 1933b, 78 (no. 14); Revault and Maury 1979, 47–52 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1930–32, 143, 162; BCCMAA 1946–53, 182, 188–89
356 Bab al-Harat al-Mabyada Map sheet
12
AH 1084 / AD 1673 This is one of the few surviving stone gates that closed off a hara (in this case the Dyers’ Quarter) from the main thoroughfare. This particular example is crenellated.
Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 222 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1913, 110
357 Tomb of al-Shurafa Before AH 901 / AD 1496 The Comité suggested that this tomb, with a shallow Map sheet stone pendentive dome within, was a converted 2 Mamluk sabil, which is more than likely. The enormous size of the masonry blocks used in its construction suggest, however, that the structure had a function prior to its use as a public sabil that may in some way have been connected with the Citadel water-supply system, as were other structures around the periphery of the Citadel’s walls (see no. 369 and U71). Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1913, 55; BCCMAA 1914, 67, 108–9; BCCMAA 1915–19, 798
358 Sabil-kuttab of Nafisa al-Bayda AH 1211 / AD 1796 This bow-fronted sabil-kuttab was added by its Map sheet patron to the corner of a preexisting wikala (see no. 21 395 below). It has an ornate façade with decorative strapwork, marble columns, bronze grilles, and wooden eaves. The building was restored in 1995–98 by the EAP.
Plan: Egyptian Antiquities Project References: Pauty 1936, 25; Raymond 1979a, 284 (no. 118); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 270; ARCE/EAP 1998 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1912, 73; BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1936–40, 266, 338; BCCMAA 1946–53, 77, 142, 200; EAP 1999
359 Tomb of ‘Ali Negm Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The date given in the Index for this monument Map sheet appears to have been derived from one of the 21 inscriptions on the façade of the building recording a restoration in the seventeenth century AD. The tomb itself is likely to be much older, possibly dating from the early fifteenth century, which is the date of the tiles on the qibla wall of the zawiya. The tomb is surmounted by a small stone dome that has an inscription band around its base. In addition to the Mamluk tiles, the qibla wall has inlaid marble panels, obscured by overpainting. The mihrab has an original carved inscription above it, which has also been covered in paint. Plan: CMP Survey References: Meinecke 1988, 211 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1912, 74, 106; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1930–32, 15
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365
Mausoleum of Qansuh Abu Sa‘id
Zawiya of Radwan Bey
904 / AD 1499 This tomb is not to be confused with that of Sultan Map sheet Qansuh Abu Sa‘id, built in the same year in the north9 ern cemetery (monument no. 164). It may be that this was Qansuh’s initial tomb, built prior to his elevation to the sultanate, at which point he would have required a more lavish structure. The tomb has a plastered-brick dome, set above a stone base on squinches decorated with strapwork; a fragment of the inscription band at the bottom of the dome survives.
AH 1060 / AD 1650 This small zawiya was built as part of Radwan Bey’s Map sheet major urban development to the east (see nos. 208, 21 406, and 408). A single antique marble column supports the painted wood ceiling. The occupant of the tomb within is unknown.
AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 368; Meinecke 1992, II:446 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1913, 54–55; BCCMAA 1914, 66, 83; BCCMAA 1915–19, 802
(361) Sabil and house of Hasan (Sabil Darb al-Masmat) AH 1193 / AD 1779–80 This building was situated adjacent to the mosque Map sheet of Mahmud Muharram at no. 5, Darb al-Masmat. It 12 was declassified in the late 1920s and was subsequently demolished; the grille, inscription, and tiles from the façade may have gone to the Islamic Museum.
Plan: CMP Survey References: See nos. 208, 406, and 408 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 12; BCCMAA 1933–35, 45
(366) Sabat in the waqf of al-Fakahani Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD The site of this now-demolished house, originally Map sheet built over a street, seems to have been off the Harat 13 al-Kushqadam in the ‘Atfat al-Mo‘ati, adjacent to the zawiyat al-Tabbakh (no. [431]). The word sabat is used here to denote a vaulted passage in the street. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 29) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 777
Plan: None References: Raymond 1979a, 283 (no. 117) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 788; BCCMAA 1927–29, 7
363 Sabil of Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan AH 1106 / AD 1694 This Ottoman sabil has one blocked-up grille to the Map sheet west, above which is mounted the foundation 21 inscription. The façade has decorative stone strapwork. The kuttab is entirely missing except for its balustrade, and the interior is virtually inaccessible.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 258–59 (no. 50) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1933–35, 108, 112, 158, 172, 180
364 House of ‘Abd al-Hamid Wa’di AH 1015 / AD 1606 This was an Ottoman house with a maq‘ad, of Map sheet which only a tiny fragment (with a painted wood 21 inscription) survives. There seems little to justify the continued presence of this structure on the Index of Monuments.
Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 31); Pauty 1936, 37 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1930–32, 7
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(367) Façade of the wikalat al-Kharbutli Map sheet
20
AH 1176 / AD 1762–63 The façade of this wikala, which lies immediately to the south of the Fakahani mosque, was declassified in 1931. A section of the portal was still visible until 2000, when the entire structure was demolished.
Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 263 (no. 23) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1920–24, 259; BCCMAA 1930–32, 67; C. Williams 2002, 472
(368) Façade of the houses of Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD These two houses, which straddled the area of the Map sheet Fatimid wall to the east of the Bab Zuwayla, were 21 fine examples of Ottoman domestic architecture, with many mashrabiya windows overlooking the Darb al-Ahmar. The Comité purchased the sites piecemeal and restored the façades as part of their project to renovate Midan Bab Zuwayla, but the buildings appear to have collapsed in the late 1960s. Although they are still technically registered on the Index of Monuments, they are here included in the category of deregistered or destroyed monuments. Plan: SCA Archive (partial) References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 30)
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1930–32, 24, 164; BCCMAA 1933–35, 319, 417; BCCMAA 1936–40, 224–25, 272–73
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 65 (not classified); BCCMAA 1915–19, 790; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33
369
(374)
Waterwheel
Zawiya and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh Murshid
AH 712 / AD 1312 This is a large stone tower, square in plan, with a Map sheet blank cartouche and panel on its eastern side. It 10 was the last pumping tower from the aqueduct prior to its entry into the Citadel through a rockcut tunnel leading to another well and waterwheel (see no. 569). It is likely that the original tower was constructed by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad and subsequently renewed by Sultan al-Ghuri in AD 1506–7. Little is visible at the top of the tower except for a stone block, deeply scored by the passage of a water wheel that has long since ceased to exist. Remnants of a substantial masonry structure of comparable date can be seen slightly to the east of the tower.
AH 940 / AD 1533–34 This deregistered building is located to the north of Map sheet the mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi (no. 250) on the 8 same side of the Darb al-Ahmar. The listing is, in fact, for two chronologically distinct foundations: a Mamluk-style zawiya and an Ottoman sabil-kuttab and rab‘ fronting the street. The zawiya is located in the surviving iwan of a large two-iwan madrasa, with a large stone arch still standing, the date of which may well be earlier than that given by the Comité. There is an inscribed plaster surround to a bull’seye window above the mihrab, which appears to have been lined with wood at some point in the building’s history. A remnant of the original portal to the madrasa survives on the street immediately to the south of the sabil. The sabil itself, which is contiguous with the remains of an Ottoman rab‘, is dated by Pauty (1936) to AD 1554.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Creswell 1924, 158; Creswell 1959, 257–58; Meinecke 1992, II:112 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 803; BCCMAA 1941–45, 58
370 Mausoleum of Aqtay al-Farisi AH 652 / AD 1254 Aqtay was a mamluk of al-Zahir Baybars. Although Map sheet this is listed as a mausoleum, the structure that 3 stands in isolation on the slopes leading up to the Citadel is actually one iwan (made of stone rubble and brick, now heavily rebuilt) of what was once a larger complex. There are two recent cenotaphs in the iwan and a simple rock-cut burial hole outside it. A few meters to the north are the remains (of uncertain date) of a brick water tank with intact render.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Meinecke 1992, II:2 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 797; BCCMAA 1946–53, 249
(371) Zawiya of Udah Basha AH 1084 / AD 1673 This is one of several buildings constructed by the Map sheet same patron in this area of the Gamaliya (see also 18 nos. 17, 19, and 591). The zawiya, located on the southern corner of the block (which includes an eponymous wikala), is elevated over shop units and is approached through a plain trilobed stone portal. The zawiya was at one time jointly listed under the same number (371) with the adjacent wikala, but the latter was subsequently renumbered in its own right as no. 591 and the zawiya was deregistered.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 242 (no. 4); Pauty 1936, 28 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1933–35, 187, 188, 190, 329
(375) House of Hasan ‘Abd al-Latif Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD Early photographs (Pauty 1933b, pl. xxxa) show that Map sheet this house had a remarkable pair of dramatically 15 projecting mashrabiya windows located at the forking of two streets. The house is now demolished. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 85–86 (no. 41) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 778
376 Sabil of the amir Khalil AH 1174 / AD 1761 This sabil has an intact marble inscription and Map sheet only one window grille. The kuttab has been 15 destroyed. Half of the façade is a Comité reconstruction from 1931, according to a date inscribed on one of the blocks.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 24; Raymond 1979a, 279 (no. 104) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 799
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 33 (wikala); Raymond 1979a, 255 (no. 41); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 273 (no. 134)
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395
Mosque of Qara Muhammad Pasha
Façade of the wikala of Nafisa al-Bayda
1113 / AD 1701 Muhammad ‘Ali was a governor of Egypt (r. AD Map sheet 1699–1704) who intended his foundation to serve 10 the Khalawati Sufi order. This mosque was built adjacent to the outer wall of the lower enclosure of the Citadel. Only the tomb, minaret, and a section of the qibla wall with mihrab (all of a simple design executed in stone) survive. The tomb has a rendered brick dome. A single stone arch survives from an arcade built slightly to the southwest of the tomb—probably an original part of the complex, which is known to have also included a bathhouse.
AH 1211 / AD 1796 This listing does not extend to the wikala itself, Map sheet 20 and 21 which is probably an Ayyubid foundation. The façade would appear to be part of Nafisa alBayda’s refurbishment of the block that included the building of her sabil-kuttab on the southwestern corner (no. 358). The façade was partially restored by the Comité, but the second floor on the northern side was not replaced. The interior of the wikala is approached through a fine stone portal; the courtyard itself is filled with invasive structures. Within one of these are the remains of a stone door with decorative strapwork—perhaps a part of a zawiya or sabil at the center of the courtyard. The stone arches that define the perimeter of the courtyard still stand at ground level, and much of the structure of the first floor also survives. The façade was restored in 2003 by the EAP.
AH
Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 361; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 182 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 797; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification); BCCMAA 1946–53, 249
(378) Mosque of Sayyida ‘Ayesha AH 1175 / AD 1762 ‘Ayesha, a descendant of Husayn, came to Egypt in Map sheet AD 762; this is her cult center, which has been 10 rebuilt many times over the centuries. The current listing seems to apply to the mosque that was built on this site by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda in 1762, now demolished. The present mosque was built in 1895. For the purposes of this catalogue, the building has been placed in the category of demolished monuments.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 12; Sameh 1946, 92–96; Raymond 1972, 247 (no. 21); al-Amroussi 1994, 38–49 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 796; BCCMAA 1920–24, 49, 95–96, 258, 373; BCCMAA 1930–32, 52–53
382
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 33; Aalund 1980, 40; Badr and Crecelius 1995, 133–49; ARCE/EAP 1996b; ARCE/EAP 2004b Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1946–53, 200
396 Wikala and sabil of ‘Abbas Agha AH 1106 / AD 1694 This was a wikala for coffee merchants, of which Map sheet only the first section of the arched stone entrance 19 survives. Although the building was classified in its entirety in 1930–32, the interior of the monument is now occupied by a modern school.
Plan: SCA Archive (portal only) References: Pauty 1936, 33; Scharabi 1978, 161; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 260–61 (no. 1); Raymond 1979a, 259 (no. 52); Aalund 1980, 39; Meinecke 1980a, 101; Hathaway 1994, 303 and n. 45, 308 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 785; BCCMAA 1930–32, 32 (classification), 248–49; BCCMAA 1936–40, 19–20
Mosque of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar 1253–55 / AD 1837–39 This intricately planned and ornately decorated comMap sheet plex includes the gateway to the Harat al-Bargawan 18 behind, a marble-fronted sabil, integrated ablutions area, storage facilities, a raised mosque with forecourt, and a minaret. The founder was a principal minister of Muhammad ‘Ali, in charge of the arsenal, who also appropriated or built several wikalas in the area (see no. 604 and U1). The building was closed after the 1992 earthquake and is scheduled to reopen in 2004 after a lengthy restoration by the SCA. AH
Plan: Mostafa 1992, 394. A split is shown between the upper level (the mosque) to the north, and the ground floor (ablutions court and sabil) to the south References: Pauty 1936, 20, 26; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 233; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 167; Jaubert 1995, 206–7 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; SCA 2002, 263–74
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397 Wikala and sabil of al-Naqadi AH 1027 / AD 1618 Raymond and Wiet (1979) mention this wikala under Map sheet the name ‘al-Maghrabi’ indicating the presence of 19 traders from Morocco. The stone structure of the wikala is intact at ground-floor level and is currently used as a workshop for making sacks. The sabil is located to the east of the entrance to the wikala and has an elaborately decorated wooden ceiling, as well as traces of an original inlaid marble floor. It has been restored and now serves as an office of a nongovernmental organization for the Gamaliya area. The whole building was deregistered and then subsequently re-registered as a monument (without a specific number) in 1984. The number given here is that of the 1947 Index.
Plan: CMP Survey
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References: Pauty 1936, 33; Scharabi 1978, 161; Raymond 1979a, 246 (no. 15); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 281 (no. 212); Aalund 1980, 39 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 789; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 32 (classification), 39
398 Wikalat Bazar’a Late eleventh century AH / seventeenth century AD This building is one of the rare wikalas that preserves its upper stories relatively intact. It was saved from demoliMap sheet tion in 1974. Raymond and Wiet (1979) list it under 19 the name ‘Hasan Katkhuda Abu Shanab,’ and the Description de l’Égypte under the name ‘al-Kihiya.’ This wikala was the subject of a detailed study and project proposal by the architect Fleming Aalund in the late 1970s. The building was restored by the SCA in 2000. Plan: Meinecke 1980a, 122 References: Pauty 1936, 33; Scharabi 1978, 162; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 276 (no. 163); Aalund 1980, 35–36; Leemhuis 1980; Meinecke 1980a, 119–39 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33 (classification); BCCMAA 1936–40, 18–20; Aalund 1980, 39–41; C. Williams 2002, 464
(399) Wikalat al-Firakh Eighth century (?) AH / Fourteenth century (?) AD The wikalat al-Firakh was originally constructed by Sultan Barquq and subsequently became part of the waqf of Map sheet Sulayman Bey Muhammad. It was located in the 18 Gamaliya, oppposite the entrance to the Harat alGuwaniya, which was known also as the Harat alRum (not to be confused with the better-known Harat al-Rum near the Bab Zuwayla). The building was delisted and destroyed in the 1950s. Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 234 (no. 10), and 269 (no. 93) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1930–32, 12
401 Sabil-kuttab of Tusun Pasha AH 1236 / AD 1820 This building is one of a pair of commemorative Map sheet sabils in the Turkish style built for deceased sons 20 of Muhammad ‘Ali. The other, for Isma‘il (no. 402), is located on the Bayn al-Qasrayn. The decoration of the sabil—in wood, metal, marble, and painted plaster—is lavish and rococco. Particularly noteworthy are the bronze grilles, the wooden projecting eaves, the marble inscription plaques, and the wooden dome over the sabil room. A two-story school, with a suite of rooms, flanks the sabil. Restoration of the building, by the EAP, was completed in 2003, during the course of which a large cistern beneath the sabil was discovered.
Plan: EAP References: Mantran 1972, 219–21; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 270 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1927–29, 6; BCCMAA 1946–53, 334; ARCE/EAP 2003
402 Sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il Pasha AH 1244 / AD 1828 The site of this building was previously occupied Map sheet by a Mamluk funduq. It is one of two sabils built 19 by Muhammad ‘Ali in commemoration of his dead sons. This example was built for his third son, Isma‘il, who was murdered in the Sudan in AD 1822 (for the other, commemorating Tusun, see no. 401). The façade shows a profound Ottoman influence in the design and detailing of the highly ornate rococco-style marble and metalwork. The sabil, together with the large school that is attached to it, was restored by the SCA in 2002–2004, when the large cistern beneath the building was rediscovered.
Plan: SCA Archive (partial). References: Pauty 1936, 26; Mantran 1972, 222–23; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 243; Denoix et al. 1999, II:21–22 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1925–26, 85; SCA 2002, 152–54, 294–300, 402–8
(400)
(403)
Manzil in the waqf al-Haramayn
Façade of the wikalat al-Lawand
Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This house was located in the ‘Atfat al-Busta, alMap sheet Sikkat al-Gedida (Muski), near Midan al-Husayn. It 13 was apparently first classified in 1894, but escaped mention in the Herz Index of 1914. It is today demolished, and the exact position of the structure, which included a fine qa‘a with a malqaf, remains uncertain. The approximate location is indicated here.
Before AH 1120 / AD 1708 The façade of this large wikala was listed until 1929, Map sheet but today has been demolished—or so extensively 19 rebuilt as to be unidentifiable. Photographs in the SCA archive show corbels of an impressive size supporting the upper floors.
Plan: Sections and plan in BCCMAA 1909 References: Pauty 1933b, 55, 56; Jaubert 1995, 197 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 21–22; BCCMAA 1895, 77; BCCMAA 1898, 134; BCCMAA 1908, 41; BCCMAA 1909, 77, 136
Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 280 (no. 207); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 34 n. 23; Denoix et al. 1999, II:23–24 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1927–29, 168–69
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407
Hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
House façade at nos. 17, 19, and 20, Shari‘ al-Khiyamiya
Before AH 1179 / AD 1765 This hawd was delisted and destroyed after 1951 in the Map sheet clearance for the Salah Salim highway. It consisted of 10 two arches, with a room behind them, and closely resembled ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda’s surviving hawd in Shari‘ al-Mahgar to the northwest of the Citadel (see no. 260). Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Sameh 1946, 106; Raymond 1972, 251 (no. 32); Raymond 1979a, 282 (no. 112) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 26; BCCMAA 1909, 115 (declassification); BCCMAA 1915–19, 796; BCCMAA 1930–32, 45–46, 49–50, 132–33
405 Sabil-kuttab of Hasan Katkhuda 1113 / AD 1701 The builder of this sabil-kuttab, integrated into an Map sheet apparently contemporaneous, unregistered wikala 17 (U112), was a member of the ‘Azaban corps of the Ottoman army. The window grille of the sabil and the door onto the street are surrounded by ornate stone strapwork, and the grille has a fine marble inscription placed above it. The arches of the kuttab survive, although the rafraf has disappeared. The eastern wall of the building appears to be either rebuilt or a party wall, an indication that more of the same complex may have once stood to the east. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 261–62 (no. 59); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 335 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 799; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification)
406 Qasaba of Radwan Bey (western side, including the façade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla) Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The qasaba of Radwan Bey is Cairo’s last surviving covMap sheet ered street—once a common typology. Various parts of 21 the mid-seventeenth-century development are listed separately (see nos. 365, 407, 408, and 409). The building is composed of double-height dwelling units cantilevered over shops at street level. This particular listing covers the western extension of the shop and living units from the main covered street, and it includes an independent house unit on the northwestern corner. The upper portions of the building were long derelict until a partial restoration was completed by the SCA in 2003. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933b , 81 (no. 33); Raymond 1979b, 120–21; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 170–71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 60, 66 (item c), 224, 232; BCCMAA 1933–35, 25, 37, 148, 157; BCCMAA 1941–45, 191, 205, 252
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Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This façade on the eastern side of the Qasabat Map sheet Radwan Bey comprises a rab‘ with shops below. It is 21 stylistically so similar to the adjacent constructions of Radwan Bey as to suggest that it was built under his patronage. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 33) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 66
408 Qasaba of Radwan Bey (eastern side, including the façade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla) Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This section of Radwan Bey’s complex follows the Map sheet typical structure of dwelling units over shops found 21 in the facing block (no. 406), with the addition of a small zawiya built into the plan at ground level. It also includes a separately accessed residential block, with a common façade, immediately to the north of the mosque of Mahmud al-Kurdi (no. 117). The dwelling units are occupied and were in the process of renovation in 2004. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 33); Raymond 1979b, 120–21; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 170–71 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1930–32, 60, 66 (item b), 146–47, 164, 224, 232; BCCMAA 1933–35, 25, 37, 148, 157
(409) Façades to the south of the zawiya of Farag ibn Barquq Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The original listing must refer to the façade of the Map sheet block immediately to the south of the sabil and 21 zawiya of Farag ibn Barquq (no. 203), which was rebuilt by the Comité in 1929. This block contains a separate house unit in its southwestern corner and forms part of the original development of Radwan Bey (see nos. 406–408). A restored street-covering spans to the western section of the complex (no. 406). All the units in this northern block of the Radwan Bey’s development are derelict, and the original façade of the block facing the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh was truncated by the widening of the street in the early part of the twentieth century. Plan: CMP Survey / SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 33); Hanna 1989, 61–67; Hanna 1991, 99–101 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782
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(414)
Hammam of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh
Mosque of al-Khalawati
823 / AD 1420 This bathhouse had over its disrobing room the Map sheet largest stone dome of any bathhouse in Cairo, sup21 ported on massive squinches. It was built as part of Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh’s development of the site, which included his mosque (no. 190). The interior is flooded with water, making access impossible; it can best be viewed from the sports club behind the mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh. Only half of the dome survives; the whole structure was heavily restored by the Comité.
AH 1173 / AD 1759 Although this building still appears on the Index of Map sheet Monuments, it has in fact been destroyed: a new 29 apartment building and mosque now stand on the site. The original mosque belonged to the Khalawati order of Sufis and had a prominent minaret on Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id. It was endowed in the eighteenth century by the eunuch Dawud Agha. A nearby wikala, of earlier date (U79), bears the same name.
AH
Plan: Courtesy Dr. Atef Fahim References: Pauty 1929, 148 and pl. vi.24; Pauty 1933a, 56; Meinecke 1992, II:323; Warner 2002, 62 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 106 (classification); BCCMAA 1900, 66; BCCMAA 1915–19, 121–23, 421, 701, 773, 781; BCCMAA 1920–24, 96; BCCMAA 1927–29, 5, 92–93; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 57, 104; BCCMAA 1941–45, 290, 321; BCCMAA 1946–53, 46
411 Wikala and sabil-kuttab of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi AH 1047 / AD 1637 This wikala, apparently used by cloth merchants, Map sheet was built by Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi, a gold mer19 chant whose house (no. 72) is located near Bab Zuwayla. The wikala, though small, gives a very good impression of the typical structure of such buildings, which in this case was built together with a sabil-kuttab.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 207–8 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 807
(417) Tomb of Sangar al-Gamaqdar Map sheet
24
AH 710 / AD 1310 This building, known also as the mosque of alKurdi, was located at no. 26, Shari‘ al-Ruqbiya. Its inscriptions are now in the Islamic Museum. It was destroyed prior to 1951.
Plan: None References: Creswell 1919, 87–88; Meinecke 1992, II:109 Listing and conservation: BCCMA 1901, 108–9 (translation of inscription); BCCMAA 1910, 16; BCCMAA 1911, 50–51; BCCMAA 1920–24, 393–94; BCCMAA 1925–26, 70
420 Sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 24 (sabil); Scharabi 1978, 161; Raymond 1979a, 250 (no. 27); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 267 (no. 73); Aalund 1980, 40; Denoix et al. 1999, II:55 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 787; BCCMAA 1927–29, 168, 188; BCCMAA 1936–40, 20; BCCMAA 1941–45, 317; SCA 2002, 189–92
AH 1246 / AD 1830 This sabil was moved by the Comité from its original Map sheet emplacement further to the west as part of a road28 widening project. It now stands in isolation, with a small garden in front of it. The decorated stone façade with wooden eaves has a gentle bow-fronted form with three cusped arches around the sabil’s bronze grilles; a marble inscription surmounts the central arch.
413
Plan: SCA Archive References: Mantran 1972, 223–24 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 778; BCCMAA 1930–32, 11; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39
Qubba of Shaykh ‘Abdallah Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD The dome of this small tomb, nestled within a modMap sheet ern mosque, is composed of rendered brick exter10 nally, but of stone within, supported on flat muqarnas squinches. The mihrab is oriented some forty degrees off the geometry of the tomb itself and is set in one corner of the space. Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 796; BCCMAA 1930–32, 133
(421) Sabil, hawd, and manzil of Kur ‘Abdallah AH 1145 / AD 1732–33 This was one of the few examples in Cairo of a sabil Map sheet and hawd built in conjunction with a house. The 14 sabil (with its inscription) and the hawd still exist at ground level, although they are now occupied by shops. The rest of the house has been demolished.
Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 81 (no. 32); Raymond 1979a, 267 (no. 75) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 48 (not classified); BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1930–32, 134; BCCMAA 1933–35, 330
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(422) Wikalat al-Nasharin
has fine carved stone details and is relatively undamaged. Any remaining structure in the courtyard is obscured by accretions. The wikala was registered in the early 1930s.
Before AH 1215 / AD 1800 This wikala, which is also known as the wikala of Map sheet 12, 19, 13 Sultan Inal, is shown on the 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments but is not indexed. The and 20 building had been deregistered by 1951 and was subsequently demolished.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Walz 1977; Scharabi 1978; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 271 (no. 111); 160; Aalund 1980, 40; Meinecke 1992, II:469 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 778; BCCMAA 1930–32, 66; SCA 2002, 136–40
Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 241 (no. 7); Meinecke and MeineckeBerg 1980, 33 and 34 n. 24 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1920–24, 259; BCCMAA 1927–29, 7, 198; BCCMAA 1946–53, 188, 190
426
423 Wikalat al-Sanadqiya AH 1100 / AD 1688–89 The doors of this wikala were registered in the early Map sheet 1930s. Portions of the rendered-brick façade, which 20 overhangs at first-floor level, still survive to their full height. The square-headed portal, doors, and vaulted entrance also survive, although the wikala’s interior was demolished in the 1990s.
Plan: CMP Survey (portal only) References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 275 (no. 152); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 and 34 n. 13 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1920–24, 259; BCCMAA 1930–32, 67
(424) Façade of the wikala in the waqf of al-Matyali Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The façade of this wikala was listed from 1921 to Map sheet 1931. Raymond and Wiet (1979) locate in this posi20 tion the wikalat al-Hamzawi al-Saghir. The groinvaulted stone entrance passage survives, as do traces of the arches surrounding the original courtyard. Plan: CMP Survey (portal only) References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 275 (no. 152); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 and 34 n. 13 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1920–24, 259; BCCMAA 1930–32, 67
425 Wikalat al-Gallaba Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This wikala was famous as the location for the slave Map sheet market of Cairo until the nineteenth century. It 28 originally had two courtyards, the second of which was destroyed by the cutting of Shari‘ al-Muski. Little remains of the building except traces of the entry façade at ground level and the vaulted entrance portal. The main entry
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Minaret and mosque of ‘Ali al-Amri Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD The builder of the large Mamluk-style minaret attached to this mosque is unrecorded. The mosque’s 28 southern façade appears to have traces of the original stonework, but the building itself is modern, with the exception of the simple stone mihrab (perhaps also an original feature) and the nineteenth-century tomb of ‘Ali al-Amri in the southeastern corner, which has a plastered-timber dome. Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks, 343 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 776
(427) Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda al-Dawudli or ‘Umar Gawish AH 1147 / AD 1735 This deregistered Ottoman sabil-kuttab has a marble Map sheet inscription on its northern face. The building appears 28 to have once been attached to a larger wikala to the west. The sabil has been turned into a shop, and the upper story is derelict, although the roof is still intact.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 269 (no. 80) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1946–53, 58–59, 61
428 Madrasat al-Kamiliya AH 622 / AD 1225 Most of the site of what was the first two-iwan Map sheet madrasa in Cairo, built by al-Malik al-Kamil (the 19 nephew of Salah al-Din), is now occupied by the unlisted elevated mosque of Hasan al-Sha’rawi Katkhuda, which was constructed in AD 1752. The brick arch of the western iwan, once visible from the roof of the Bashtak Palace (no. 34), was essentially all that remained of the work of al-Kamil; it collapsed in 1998.
Plan: Creswell 1959, 81 References: Creswell 1922, 31–32; Creswell 1959, 80–83; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 239; Jaubert 1995, 190; Sayyid 1998, 247–48, 301; Denoix et al. 1999, II:25; O’Kane 2000, 161–62 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1894, 56; BCCMAA 1903, 49; BCCMAA 1904, 7, 67, 81; BCCMAA 1915–19, 764; BCCMAA 1927–29, 169;
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BCCMAA 1930–32, 223; BCCMAA 1941–45, 172, 185, 276; BCCMAA 1946–53, 98
(434) Wikala of Abu’l Rus
(429) Sabil of Salim Agha Map sheet
11
AH 1166 / AD 1753 This small Ottoman sabil, which was demolished in urban clearance outside the Fatimid walls during the 1940s, was located immediately outside the Bab al-Nasr.
Plan: None References: Raymond 1979a, 274 (no. 93) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1903, 30 (item c); BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33
(431) Façade of zawiyat al-Tabbakh Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This zawiya, which was destroyed prior to 1951, was Map sheet formerly located at no. 33, Harat al-Kushqadam. 13 Surviving photographs in the SCA archive show an undistinguished stone façade. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
433 Wikala and sabil in the waqf al-Haramayn Eleventh century and AH 1272 / Seventeenth century and AD 1856 The date of this wikala is certainly anterior to that Map sheet 12 and 19 given in the Index of Monuments, which must apply to the structure’s late Ottoman first-floor addition, accessed by a stair to the north. The wikala’s façade, including that of its first floor, is intact; the door of the main entrance even preserves a massive wooden lock. The ground floor is still in use as a warehouse, and the structure is generally free of accretions and is clearly visible. This wikala may, in fact, be the wikala of Gaf‘ar al-Kabir for coffee merchants, dating to the seventeenth century. It should not be confused with another wikala of the same name (no. [598]) located in Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiya. The sabil-kuttab is located immediately to the south of the wikala’s main entrance. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 26 (sabil); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 271 (no. 108); Aalund 1980, 40; Jaubert 1995, 207 Listing and conservation. See Aalund 1980, 40
AH 1131 / AD 1718–19 This wikala seems to have started out as the khan Map sheet al-Hagar in the fifteenth century; it was enlarged 19 into the wikalat al-Danushari in the eighteenth century, and ended up with its present name in the twentieth century. It was deregistered in 1931. The portal is intact but obscured by shops, leading into a courtyard occupied by intrusive structures; the outline of the enclosure is just visible. The upper floors are rebuilt.
Plan: Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale 1989 (unpaginated) References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 267–68 (no. 75); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 34 n. 19; Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale 1989; Denoix et al. 1999, II:9–10 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 785; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33
(435) Manzil in the waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD Located in the ‘Atfat al-‘Inani off Shari‘ al-Magharbellin, Map sheet this building was deregistered between 1927 and 1929. 21 It is a well-preserved example of an Ottoman rab‘, with four dwelling-units located over workshops, approached through a doorway framed by decorative stone strapwork. Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1927–29, 197
436 Sabil, mosque, and tomb of Shaykh Ramadan AH 1175 / AD 1762 This complex was originally constructed by ‘Abd alMap sheet Rahman Katkhuda, whose decorative style can be 28 seen in the two cusped molded arches on the northern façade fronting the tomb chamber. There is no evidence of the sabil today, and only the base of the minaret survives. The tomb chamber is surmounted by a plastered dome. The interior (in 2000) had been recently refurbished.
Plan: Sameh 1946, 83 References: Pauty 1936, 25 (sabil); Sameh 1946, 83–87; Raymond 1972, 245–46; Raymond 1979a, 280 (no. 204) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 807
(437) House of Shaykh Sayim Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This fine courtyard house, known also as the manzil Map sheet of ‘Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari, was demolished in the 13 clearance for the al-Azhar University campus in the 1950s. A photograph of the courtyard, showing a well-preserved double-arched maq‘ad, is published in Pauty 1933b (pl. xxiva).
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Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 80 (no. 25) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1930–32, 145, 164, 167; BCCMAA 1936–40, 110, 114
(439) House and qa‘a in the waqf of al-‘Abbar Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This house, located in the Harat al-Godariya alMap sheet Kabira, was known also by the name ‘al-Sitt 20 Manwar.’ In addition to the qa‘a mentioned in the listing, it also contained a maq‘ad. The house is now demolished, and its exact position is uncertain. Its approximate location is indicated on the map sheet. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1909, 48–49; BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMA 1930–32, 27, 122–23, 204; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; BCCMAA 1911, 17, 101; BCCMAA 1920–24, 325
(440) Maq‘ad of Qaytbay ca. AH 896 / AD 1490 This imposing maq‘ad was part of a palace, which Map sheet also went under the name ‘Qaracholi House,’ locat23 ed to the west of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, close to Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali. It was demolished in 1924, after a legal battle that was lost by the Comité. The Bulletin of 1915–19 reports that Qaytbay’s construction incorporated elements of a more ancient foundation. A photograph of the maq‘ad can be found in the Bulletin of 1920–24 (pl.x). Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 740–41, 802; BCCMAA 1920–24, 143, 236–38 (declassification), 407
(443) Parts of the house of Gawhar Agha Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This house, now demolished, was located at no. 7, Map sheet Harat Isma‘il Pasha, Darb al-Gamamiz. Pauty 30 (1933b) remarks that it was only the stone façade of the building that had any architectural interest. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 89 (no. 52) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 793
445 House of Sitt Wasila‘ AH 1046 / AD 1637 Lézine (1972a) notes the existence in this courtMap sheet yard house of an inscription dating its foundation 13 to AD 1637—some thirty years prior to its occupation by Sitt Wasila‘. The house (undergoing restoration, 2001–2004) has a maq‘ad and a large qa‘a on the first floor. Excavations in the courtyard have revealed the presence of a Fatimid period fountain, suggesting an even earlier period of domestic use. The house stands immediately adjacent to that of ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi (no. 446).
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 185 References: Pauty 1933b, 80 (no. 26); Pauty 1936, 37; Lézine 1972a, 33–45; Maury et al. 1983, 180–88; Jaubert 1995, 199 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1895, 84; BCCMAA 1897, 92; BCCMAA 1898, 127–28; BCCMAA 1901, 24, 77–78; BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1920–24, 360; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16, 30; BCCMAA 1930–32, 145, 163, 175, 199; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 39, 148, 158, 172, 180, 227; BCCMAA 1936–40, 57; BCCMAA 1946–53, 81, 192, 206; BIFAO 86 (1986), 369–70; BIFAO 89 (1989), 315; SCA 2002, 94–97, 302–10
446 House of ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi AH 1144 / AD 1731 This is a fine Ottoman courtyard house with two Map sheet large qa‘as on the ground floor and another on the 13 first floor. The entrance to the house, as well as part of the building above it, is a nineteenthcentury rebuilding. The house was restored jointly by the Mission de Sauvegarde des Monuments du Caire Islamique of the IFAO and the SCA and is now used frequently for concerts, special events, and as a base for visiting architectural studios.
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 192 References: Pauty 1933b, 80 (no. 27); Maury et al. 1983, 188–204; Jaubert 1995, 200 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 773; BCCMAA 1925–26, 31–32; BCCMAA 1946–53, 297; BIFAO 1986, 369–70; BIFAO 1987, 318–20; BIFAO 1988, 221–22; BIFAO 1989, 315; BIFAO 1990, 409; BIFAO 1991, 322; BIFAO 1992, 261; BIFAO 1993, 493
(447) Sabil-kuttab of ‘Usman ‘Abdallah Roq‘et al-Qamh AH 1125 / AD 1713 This sabil was demolished in the clearance that Map sheet took place prior to the construction of the al-Azhar 13 University campus. Comité Bulletin reports identify this as the sabil of ‘Uthman Bira and state that it was attached to the buildings of the mosque of al-Azhar. It is here situated approximately in the street called Roq‘et al-Qamh to the east of the mosque.
Plan: None References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 262–63 (no. 62)
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(453)
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 777; BCCMAA 1933–35, 331; BCCMAA 1936–40, 115; BCCMAA 1946–53, 93–94, 96
448 Mosque and sabil of Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghurayib AH 1168 / AD 1754 This complex originally contained, in addition to Map sheet the mosque and sabil, a watering trough and kut6 tab (the latter is no longer in evidence). It was built for Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghurayib by ‘Abd alRahman Katkhuda. The main entrance, with a muqarnas hood portal, lies on the northern side of the building. Situated today within the compound of al-Azhar University, the mosque is heavily used and has been substantially rebuilt inside.
Plan: Sameh 1946 References: Sameh 1946, 59–62; Raymond 1972, 241; Raymond 1979a, 276 (no. 96). Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 775; BCCMAA 1930–32, 32; BCCMAA 1933–35, 389, 393; BCCMAA 1936–40, 2, 4, 112
(451) Façade of the mosque of al-Hifni 1172 / AD 1759 This mosque, built by ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda and Map sheet restored by the Ministry of Endowments in 1874, 27 was originally adjacent to the Khalig al-Masri; it was demolished in the clearance for the construction of Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id. AH
Plan: Sameh 1946 References: Pauty 1936, 11; Sameh 1946, 76–79; Raymond 1972, 244; Hamamsy 1992, 57–58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 46 (not listed); BCCMAA 1908, 42 (not listed); BCCMAA 1915–19, 778; BCCMAA 1933–35, 14, 308; BCCMAA 1946–53, 233, 240
452 House and sabil-kuttab of the amir ‘Abdallah AH 1132 / AD 1719 This house is known also as that of the Katkhuda Map sheet ‘Azaban, a generic term for the officer in charge of 23 the ‘Azaban troops of the Ottoman army. If the house was indeed built at the same time as the sabil-kuttab, this complex would be one of the rare combinations of a sabil-kuttab and residential unit in Cairo. The building is substantially derelict, although the surviving decorative strapwork and tile inlay suggests that the façade was once quite elaborate.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Raymond 1979a, 265 (no. 69) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 796; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification); BCCMAA 1930–32, 132, 216–17, 233–34; BCCMAA 1946–53, 184
Wikala of Shaykh ‘Abud al-Mana‘ifa Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This formerly listed wikala was demolished for the Map sheet construction of Shari‘ al-Azhar. It was probably 20 located at no. 16, Harat al-Sab Qa‘at al-Qibliya, associated with a tomb of the same name. Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 281 (no. 215) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1911, 21; BCCMAA 1915–19, 773
(457) House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha AH 1062 / AD 1652 It seems that this building was reassigned the Map sheet number 595, having initially been registered as no. 15 457 (nos. 33–41, Darb al-Ahmar). Photographs of the house (in Pauty 1933b) show a large range of buildings (more a rab‘ than a house) with an imposing façade of many mashrabiya windows looking onto the Darb al-Ahmar. The buildings were destroyed in the 1960s.
Plan: None. References: Pauty 1933b, 86 (no. 42, as monument no. 457) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1946–53, 1–2, 171–72, 175, 183, 185, 187
(458) Khan Sa‘id 920–21 / AD 1515 This monument, which served the spice trade, was deregistered in 1949 and demolished in the late twentieth century. It occupied nos. 5, 7, and 9, Shari‘ al-Hamzawi. AH
Map sheet
20
Plan: None References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 292 (no. 309); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 and 34 n. 11 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 783; BCCMAA 1933–35, 7, 14; BCCMAA 1946–53, 93, 95–96
459 Mosque of ‘Ali ibn al-Arabi and house of Muhammad al-Mahruqi AH 1199 / AD 1784 Muhammad al-Mahruqi was an important merchant Map sheet in eighteenth-century Cairo. All that remains of 20 what must have once been an extremely impressive house is the entrance portal and mashrabiya above (a Comité restoration). The adjacent mosque has a beautiful carved stone façade with inlaid-tile panels. Two surviving corbels indicate that there was once another story above the mosque. The interior structure is based on four antique columns, supporting two arcades. The qibla arcade still has its original painted ceiling, which is in good condition. There is also a timber dikka and wooden screen around the shaykh’s tomb.
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Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 12; Raymond 1967, 91–95 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1925–26, 30–31
460
a fine inlaid marble dado and mihrab, surmounted at its center by a stone maqsura dome. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 11; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 254 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 787; BCCMAA 1930–32, 46; SCA 2002, 145–46
Wikalat al-Sharaybi Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This wikala’s fine façade is decorated with stone Map sheet bosses and carved double-headed axe motifs. The 20 complex was owned by a prominent coffee merchant, who also built the adjacent bathhouse (U30). The courtyard’s original arched-stone perimeter appears to have been added to, with further stone piers and wooden columns supporting an extended gallery at first-floor level. The wikala is occupied by a variety of trades, and the first-floor living units are still inhabited despite the structure’s extreme dilapidation. The wikala was deregistered at some point after 1950, and was re-registered in 1984 in conjunction with the adjacent bathhouse (U30) below. The prior registration number is given here in the absence of any new number. Plan: CMP Survey References: Scharabi 1978, 163; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 292 (no. 313); Aalund 1980, 40; Raymond 1995, 58 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 780; BCCMAA 1925–26, 30–31; BCCMAA 1946–53, 77
461 Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Effendi Salim AH 1111 / AD 1699 This unremarkable Ottoman sabil-kuttab appears to Map sheet have been disengaged from the urban block of 31 which it was once a part to assist in the creation of an open space around it, which now resembles a wasteland. The sabil has two original bronze grilles and an intact marble inscription.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 260 (no. 53) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 793; BCCMAA 1928–29, 140
462 Mosque of al-Gawhari and façade of the adjoining building AH 1261 / AD 1845 Little is known about this Muhammad ‘Ali-period Map sheet mosque. The entrance portal stands adjacent to 19 another fine carved-stone gateway that leads into a domestic courtyard. It is probable that this is the façade that shares the listing. In the courtyard that precedes the mosque is a sabil with a fine bronze grille and a drinking spout. The mosque, with an Ottoman-style minaret, has arched stone riwaqs supported on purpose-made marble columns, carved with the royal crescent, with bronze collars. Within the riwaqs stand the cenotaphs of three shaykhs. The qibla wall has
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463 Manzil of al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya Tenth century
AH; AH
1010 and 1169 / Sixteenth century AD; 1679 and 1755 The Wafa‘iya family were an important religious Map sheet family who founded the Shadhili Sufi brotherhood 30 in the fourteenth century. During the Ottoman period, they were responsible, among other things, for the moulid of Husayn and the waqf of the mosque of Husayn. Members of the family are buried in their mosque at the foot of the Muqattam Hills (monument no. 608). The house was a favorite subject of nineteenth-century artists, who were attracted by the quality of the tilework within and the astonishingly intricate mashrabiya. The main entrance door to the house courtyard is blocked: access is through a break to the south. The rest of the building presents a sad picture of dereliction, with broken windows and mashrabiya, tottering brick parapets, and emergency scaffolding supporting seriously endangered structural elements. The entire southern wall of the main qa‘a at ground-floor level has collapsed, together with most of the ceiling. The famous upstairs qa‘a is subsiding and is now supported by scaffolding. A new concrete school block intrudes into what was once the courtyard. A conservation project here was initiated by the SCA in 2004. AD
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 262 References: Pauty 1936, 38; Maury et al. 1983, 259–67; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 346; Jaubert 1995, 201 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 795, 837; BCCMAA 1930–32, 148, 169, 205; BCCMAA 1936–40, 351–57, 372–75, 378–79; BCCMAA 1941–45, 15, 293; BCCMAA 1946–53, 58–59, 61, 421, 423
(464) Mosque of Ganem al-Tagir AH 871 / AD 1466 This mosque, known also as the mosque of al-Almi, Map sheet once located to the west of the mosque of Ibn 31 Tulun, was founded by the amir Ganem al-Sharkasi al-Tagir, a mamluk of Sultan al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh. The site has been rebuilt with a new mosque and religious school since it was deregistered.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 182–83; Meinecke 1992, II:392 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1885, 1–2; BCCMAA 1889, 56–57; BCCMAA 1915–19, 793; BCCMAA 1933–35, 112 (declassification)
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(465) Mosque of al-Ghamri 850 / AD 1446 This famous Mamluk madrasa was built after the Map sheet death of the eponymous Shaykh al-Ghamri in AD 25 1446. It was demolished in 1884; the minaret is the subject of one of David Roberts’s lithographs. A small fragment of the minaret base is still visible at ground level, but the rest of the site is occupied by a modern mosque. The original liturgical furniture from the mosque is now in the Islamic Museum. AH
façades (hence the multiple listings; see also no. [469] below), but this has sadly not been achieved. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 294 (no. 331) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 798; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (declassification); BCCMAA 1930–32, 271
(469) Façade of the houses next to the sabil al-Tabtabay Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD These houses occupied nos. 11, 13, and 15, Shari‘ alMap sheet Ruqbiya. Nos. 13 and 15 are in fact part of the 24 façade of the wikala (see nos. 272 and [468]); no. 11 (now demolished) was a separate house.
Plan: None References: Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 180; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 285; Meinecke 1992, II:359 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1882–83 (2nd ed.), 43; BCCMAA 1900, 101–2; BCCMAA 1901, 60 (acquisition of stone carvings and liturgical furniture); BCCMAA 1902, 127–28; BCCMAA 1903, 74; BCCMAA 1904, 42–43 80; BCCMAA 1906, 89, 96; BCCMAA 1908, 51; BCCMAA 1910, 37; BCCMAA 1915–19, 806
Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 798; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (declassification); BCCMAA 1930–32, 271
466
(470)
Qa‘a of al-Dardir
Manzil of ‘Uthman ‘Amara and Zaynab Umm Ahmad
Sixth century AH / Twelfth century AD This structure is all that remains of an early palace, Map sheet rebuilt in the Ottoman period. The precise dating of 13 the building has been a matter of dispute (summarized in O’Kane 2000). It has two iwans that are, unusually, enclosed by tunnel vaults of plastered brick rather than flat timber ceilings. The central lantern has collapsed. The walls are made of stone; remains of a wooden inscription band survive around the perimeter of the room. The plan represented on map sheet 13 is archival, as many of the outlying sections of the palace have now disintegrated. The qa‘a derives its name from the shaykh who is buried nearby (see U29) and was registered in 1927. In 2000 it was occupied by a carpenter’s workshop. Plan: Revault and Maury 1975, 4 References: Pauty 1933b, 79 (no. 22); Creswell 1952, 262–63; Fathy 1969, 136–37, 144; Lézine 1972b, 120–23, 130; Revault and Maury 1975, 1–10; Maury et al. 1982, 80; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 267; Jaubert 1995, 189–90; Sayyid 1998, 312–13; O’Kane 2000, 152–53 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 77; BCCMAA 1927–29, 101, 123; BCCMAA 1930–32, 144, 164; BCCMAA 1941–45, 110, 151, 185, 220, 240
(468) Façade of the wikalat al-Tabtabay AH 1047 / AD 1637 This listing seems to have been for the wikala locatMap sheet ed at no. 23, Shari‘ al-Ruqbiya, immediately to the 24 north of the sabil al-Tabtabay (no. 272), with which it (confusingly) shares the same name. A large portal flanked by elaborate stone corbels is all that survives of the building. It is probable that this section of the street was subject to the Comité’s desire to preserve a coherent group of
Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD The upper floor of this house, which contained a Map sheet fine qa‘a with a painted wood ceiling, was demol14 ished in 1998, leaving only fragments of the ground floor structure amid the rubble. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 782; BCCMAA 1927–29, 193
471 House of Mustafa Ga‘far AH 1125 / AD 1713 Mustafa Ga‘far was a coffee trader who operated Map sheet from the nearby wikala of Dhulfiqar, or Udah 18 Basha (see no. 19). The house is arranged around a courtyard with a large qa‘a at ground level; it was restored in 1998–2000 as part of the Darb al-Asfar regeneration project.
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 222 References: Pauty 1933b, 76 (no. 5); Abdul Tawwab and Raymond 1978, 177–93; Revault and Maury 1979, III:121–32; Maury et al. 1983, 221–23; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 234; Hassaballah 2001 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1927–29, 169; BCCMAA 1930–32, 142, 168; BCCMAA 1933–35, 2, 6, 148, 157, 171, 179, 182, 227; BCCMAA 1936–40, 15, 57, 104; BCCMAA 1941–45, 165–66, 173, 176, 189, 237, 244, 340, 363; BCCMAA 1946–53, 12, 33, 46, 64, 86, 98, 132, 197; SCA 2002, 199–212 (passim)
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476 Mausoleum of Ragab al-Shirazi AH 781 / AD 1379 This tomb appears to be located inside a polygonal Map sheet defensive stone tower, perhaps belonging to Salah 9 al-Din’s defensive wall around Cairo (no. 307). The dome is plastered brick. A marble inscription mounted high on the façade indicates that the tomb was built by the amir (later sultan) Barquq. The tomb is now derelict and has no visible means of access.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Meinecke 1992, II:261–62 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1914, 66–67
477 Zawiya of Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati AH 411–27 / AD 1021–36 Sixty meters to the south of the mosque of alMap sheet Hakim (no. 15) stands this remnant, which Creswell 18 (1952) identifies as a gateway into the ziyada that originally surrounded the mosque. It may alternatively be considered as part of the city’s first Fatimid wall, which was approximately on this line. The surviving structure is currently about two meters below ground level, and is occupied by the tomb of a holy man, Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati.
Plan: Creswell 1952, 115 References: Creswell 1952, 115–17; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 233; Sayyid 1998, 154; O’Kane 1999 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1909, 73; BCCMAA 1915–19, 684; BCCMAA 1920–24, 147, 255, 257–58, 279, 297, 359; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16–17; Pauty 1931b, 153 n. 2; BCCMAA 1941–45, 19
(478) Two tombs in the zawiyat al-Sutuhi Map sheet
18
ca. AH 700 (?) / AD 1300 (?) This now-demolished zawiya was located at no. 18, Darb al-Asfar; the tombs within it were reputedly built during the time of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad (r. ca. AD 1294–1340).
Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1920–24, 352
479 Fatimid mausoleum Map sheet
18
AH 527 / AD 1133 This small domed brick structure with a projecting mihrab is the only surviving Fatimid tomb within the precincts of the city of al-Qahira. Its occupant is unknown.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Creswell 1952, 227–28; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 225; Sayyid 1998, 257–58
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1911, 131–32 (historical notice); BCCMAA 1930–32, 2–3; BCCMAA 1941–45, 311, 314; BCCMAA 1946–53, 140
480 Mosque of Sa‘id al-Su‘ada Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This mosque is built on the site of a Fatimid palace, Map sheet founded in the late eleventh century AD by Sa‘id, a 18,19, freed slave of Khalif al-Mustansir. Salah al-Din and12 chose the site for the first khanqah in Egypt, and it became a major center for Sufism, known as the Salahiya. The present structure appears to date to the nineteenth century, perhaps incorporating traces of earlier buildings. The mosque has an unusual plan, with four covered prayer halls arranged around an open courtyard, accessed by a dog-legged corridor. Of the three surviving halls, that to the south has arcades with marble columns, while those to the east and west have stone piers and arches. The collapsed northern section may have had columns to match its southern counterpart. The bathhouse attached to the mosque is commonly called the hammam alGamaliya (U4). Plan: After SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 222; Meinecke 1992, II:261 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 105; BCCMAA 1915–19, 791; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33
(481) Façade of the mosque of al-Bulqini AH 791 / AD 1389 This mosque, located in the Bayn al-Sayarig to the Map sheet east of the mosque of al-Hakim (no. 15), was built 18 during the Bahri Mamluk period for Shaykh ‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini. A modern mosque stands on the site today; the original building is known to have possessed a monumental muqarnas portal.
Plan: None References: Meinecke 1992, II:278 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 150; BCCMAA 1915–19, 786
482 Church of the Virgin, Harat Zuwayla Fourth–twelfth century AH / Tenth–eighteenth century AD This ancient complex comprises the Church of the Map sheet Virgin Mary with an attached convent, the Church 18 of St. Mercurius, and the Church of St. George. The former is the oldest of these structures, with a probable foundation date in the tenth century AD; most of the visible structures, however, are eighteenth century. From the fourteenth century until 1660, it served as the seat of the Coptic patriarchate. The church is located some four meters below present ground level, which is further evidence for the antiquity of the foundation. The plan of the church is basilical, with a narthex and three sanctuaries. The nave is lined with antique columns, and the roof above it has a wooden barrel
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vault. The major problem affecting the church is water: it is below the water table, and constant pumping is required to avoid flooding.
and first tier of the minaret also survive, and on stylistic grounds would appear to be part of an earlier Mamluk foundation on the same site.
Plan: Courtesy Prof. Dr. Saleh Lamei, Centre for Conservation and Preservation of Islamic Architectural Heritage References: Butler 1884, I:271–78; Behrens-Abouseif 1986, 122–28 (passim); Gabra 1993, 138–39 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 66, 79; BCCMAA 1902, 47, 82, 124; BCCMAA 1903, 6–7; BCCMAA 1907, 99, 126; BCCMAA 1912, 66; BCCMAA 1913, 10; BCCMAA 1915–19, 209, 546, 554, 642, 647, 698, 774, 785; BCCMAA 1927–29, 6; BCCMAA 1930–32, 178, 258; BCCMAA 1933–35, 14, 144, 160, 173, 181; BCCMAA 1936–40, 14, 334; BCCMAA 1946–53, 138, 143, 198, 299
Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 784
483 Church of the Virgin, Harat al-Rum Eighth (?) – thirteenth century AH / Fourteenth (?) – nineteenth century AD This church, the seat of the Coptic Patriarchate Map sheet from AD 1660 to 1799, was rebuilt in the nine13 teenth century. It lies in a complex of buildings that includes the Church of St. George and the Convent of St. Theodore. The exact date of the foundation is unknown. The present interior is composed of a series of parallel domes and arches. Plan: Centre for the Conservation and Preservation of Islamic Architectural Heritage References: Butler 1884, I:278–83; Behrens-Abouseif 1986, 122–28 (passim); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 269 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 776
(484) Façade and door of wikala of al-Uqbi, or Khan al-Fisqiya Before AH 901 / AD 1496 The portal of this Qaytbay-period wikala was listed Map sheet until 1933. Partially demolished and partially 20 derelict, this building has original doors leading to a courtyard occupied by intrusive structures. The façade is obscured by modern shopfronts. Plan: None References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 and 34 n. 8 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1933–35, 7, 14
(485) Mosque of Yahya ibn ‘Aqab AH 1047 / AD 1637 The entrance to this deregistered but significant Map sheet 13 and 20 Ottoman mosque is through a groin-vaulted passageway, which leads to a long, narrow prayerspace, two arcades deep. The structure consists of four antique reused columns, supporting a partially decorated timber ceiling with a timber-domed roof-light, and a large dikka. The mihrab has Ottoman moldings around it. The base
(486) House in the waqf of al-Safti Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD The location of this building at no. 30, Shari‘ alMap sheet Dardir, may be erroneously given in the Bulletin: a 13 nineteenth-century apartment block, built over in concrete, occupies the plot. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 783
(487) Façades of houses in Shari‘ al-Dardir Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This listing was for three house façades that still Map sheet form a picturesque urban composition: nos.16, 18, 13 and 20, Shari‘ al-Dardir. Today, no. 16 is in fact the wikala that is contiguous with the sabil-kuttab of Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui (no. 71), although it is named after a ‘Mohamed al-Salawi’ in the Bulletin of 1915–19. This building is ruined on its upper floors. The façade of no. 18 is intact up to a height of three stories, and is entered from a doorway with a threshold of pharaonic spolia and a surround of decorative stone moldings. No. 20 has been demolished down to corbel level. All three façades are cantilevered over a very tall ground story on exceptionally fine stone corbels. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779, 783
(488) House in the waqf of al-Magharba Eleventh–twelfth century AH / Seventeenth–eighteenth century AD This courtyard house, located at no. 5, ‘Atfat alMap sheet Mawargi, off Shari‘ al-Dardir (also referred to as 13 Shari‘ al-Mawargi), has been demolished. Pauty (1993a, pl. xxiia) published a photograph showing the blocked triple-arched maq‘ad and trilobed entrance portal of the house. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 79 (no. 21) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 84–85 (purchase of architectural fragments for the Musée de l’Art Arabe), 128; BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1930–32, 29, 144, 174; BCCMAA 1936–40, 375, 379
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(493)
Sabil and houses in Shari‘ al-Ghamri
House of ‘Abd al-Mu’min Shakrun
Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This listing appears to have been for the sabil and Map sheet attached house of Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus at no. 51, 25 Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush (also referred to as Shari‘ alGhamri). It may also have extended to include the façade of the wikala at no. 53, Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush. Both buildings, deregistered in the early 1920s, lay immediately to the west of the mosque of al-Ghamri; they were demolished after 1951.
Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD This house was located at no. 28, Shari‘ al-Dardir, Map sheet adjacent to the house in the waqf of al-Safti (no. 13 486). The façade survives only up to first-floor corbel height.
Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 805; BCCMAA 1920–24, 350
(490) Façade of the manzil and hammam al-Margush AH 1194 / AD 1780 The hammam al-Margush was another name for the Map sheet hammam al-Malatyali (no. 592); this may be the 25 reason that another registration number was given to the hammam on its own acccount. The manzil or house referred to in the listing (occupying the upper floor) no longer exists.
Plan: As ‘592,’ SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933a, 51–52; Raymond 1969, 135 (no. 40) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 806; BCCMAA 1930–32, 248
(491) Façade and portal of the wikala and sabil-kuttab in the ‘Atfat al-Zababqi Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This listing would seem to cover two separate buildings: first, a wikala in the name of Ibrahim 18 Agha at no. 27, Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush; and second, the sabil-kuttab in the waqf of ‘Assal at no. 29, Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush, at the corner of ‘Atfat al-Zababqi. The wikala has been demolished except for its ground floor and portal. The sabil-kuttab, mentioned in the Description de l’Égypte under the name ‘al-Ghamri,’ is intact. It has one façade to Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush with a square sabil opening and a loggia above; the entrance is to the east through a trefoil arch stone portal. Decorative stone strapwork typical of the period covers the façade, but there appears to have been no rafraf screen to the kuttab: instead a third story, now missing, projected from surviving wooden corbels above kuttab level. The door to the sabil is blocked by debris, which makes access impossible. Map sheet
Plan: None References: Raymond 1979a, 290 (in index of sabils mentioned in the Description de l’Égypte) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 805; BCCMAA 1920–24, 349, 351
Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1915–19, 775
(495) Manzil in the waqf of Bashir Agha Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This house, now demolished, was located in the Map sheet Darb al-Asfar. Traces of stone corbeling on the 18 façade of no. 20, Darb al-Asfar, may indicate that the house occupied this site, although the Comité Bulletins are imprecise. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 786; BCCMAA 1920–24, 352
(496) Sabil and wikalat al-Manawi Before AH 1159 / AD 1747 This wikala and sabil occupied the site of no. 27, Map sheet Shari‘ al-Surugiya, built by the same Ahmad 22 Katkhuda Mustahfizan who constructed the nearby house (no. [334]). Traces of the vaulted entrance and some of the arches in the courtyard survive despite major collapse and rebuilding. The registration number 496 was erroneously given by Pauty (1936) to the sabil-kuttab of Husayn alShu’aybi (no. 588). Plan: CMP Survey (for portal only). References: Pauty 1936, 25; Raymond 1979, 272–73 (no. 89) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 780
497 House of ‘Ali Effendi Labib Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This is an Ottoman merchant’s house, with a plasMap sheet tered façade adorned by mashrabiya windows. The 16 small door is surrounded by ornate stone moldings. The interior spaces are grouped around two small courtyards, densely overhung with mashrabiya. An ornate portal approached by steps is located in the first courtyard, while the second courtyard has an antique column supporting part of the superstructure. The interior was remodeled in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In more recent times, the top floor of the house served as the studio of the famous Egyptian architect Hassan Fathy. Plan: Revault and Maury 1979, 165
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References: Pauty 1936, 38; Revault and Maury 1979, 159–70; Maury et al. 1983, 242–48 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 797; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification); BCCMAA 1936–40, 206, 208; BCCMAA 1946–53, 182, 185, 205, 348
(498) Sabil-rab‘ al-Balfiya Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This complex extended south from the mosque of Map sheet Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi (no. 242) and was also listed 15 under the name ‘Balighya.’ The map of the Description de l’Égypte (État Moderne I, pl. 26) has a ‘sabil Balifiyya’ at approximately this location, although this may refer to the sabil-kuttab of Hasan Agha Koklian (no. 243) slight to the south in the same street. This latter sabil is also, confusingly, known as the sabil-kuttab Balfiya (the two structures might have been part of the same waqf). The Balfiyas were a prominent Mamluk household in the first half of the eighteenth century. The sabil is now occupied by a shop, and a number of original shop units survive, although the residential units above them no longer exist. The site was deregistered between 1927 and 1929. Plan: CMP Survey References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 797; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (deregistration)
499 Hawsh of ‘Utay / Wikala of Muhsin Ramadan AH 1233 / AD 1817 The only surviving section of this large commercial Map sheet 11 and 18 complex, which once housed tobacco merchants from Syria, appears to be the fine carved stone portal with a marble inscription, immediately flanking the khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir to the north, as well as some stone arches to the east of the portal. The 1935 Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan shows (in addition to the hawsh of ‘Utay) a group of three large wikalas in this area, including the wikalat al-Shishini (late seventeenth century AD: see U1). All have been destroyed and replaced with modern block housing, except for the wikalat al-Shishini, which is unlisted.
Plan: SCA Archive (partial) References: Pauty 1936, 35; Mantran 1972, 228–29; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 224–45; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 283 (no. 239) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 12
(500) Façade of the house of al-Kashif Late twelfth century AH / Late eighteenth century AD The façade of this house, seen in a photograph pubMap sheet lished by Pauty (1933a), was demolished in the late 27 twentieth century. The number 500 was also assigned by the Comité to the wikalat alMuhammadayn (later classified as no. 597).
Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 78 (no. 15); Pauty 1936, 34. Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 779; BCCMAA 1930–32, 138, 253
(501) House of Mahmud Sudan Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This house was located at no. 6, ‘Atfat al-Zababqi. Map sheet The number 501 was also assigned by the Comité to 18 the wikalat al-Haramayn, which was subsequently re-registered with the number 598. The house was deregistered and demolished after 1951. Plan: None References: Pauty 1936, 34 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 806
(502) Zawiya of Sidi Muhammad al-Sha’rani Tenth century (?) AH / Sixteenth century (?) AD This small zawiya was located at no. 4, Harat alMap sheet Sha’rani. The site is presently occupied by another 25 zawiya, built in the 1930s. A photograph of the earlier building (in the Comité archive) shows a squareheaded portal with heavy muqarnas that places it stylistically in the early Ottoman period. Plan: None References: None Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 805
503 Mosque of Muhammad ‘Ali AH 1265 / AD 1848 Although the bulk of this mosque was constructed Map sheet between AD 1830 and 1848, it was not completed 9 until the reign of Sai‘d, Muhammad ‘Ali’s son, in 1857. The site of the mosque was built up from various demolished structures in the vicinity, including the famous Ablaq Palace of al-Nasir Muhammad (no. 549). The mosque was designed by a Greek architect on Ottoman lines, and is clad with alabaster. The forecourt has an elaborate Ottoman baroque-style ablutions fountain in its center. To the west, within the space of the courtyard arcade, and rising above it, stands an ornate clocktower given to Muhammad ‘Ali by Louis Philippe in 1845. The mosque itself, which is flanked by two eighty-two-meter-high minarets, has a fifty-two-meter-high central dome that rests on four massive piers with four semidomes. The body of Muhammad ‘Ali was moved here in 1857 from the family enclosure in the southern cemetery and lies within the mosque beneath a three-tiered marble cenotaph behind a bronze grille. The mosque first exhibited signs of structural cracking in 1899; inadequate repairs led to a more extensive restoration from 1931 to 1939, which included the rebuilding of the domes around the courtyard. The domes were re-covered in 1999, and the minarets cleaned in 2000.
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Plan: Mostafa 1992, 400 References: Pauty 1936, 19–20; Wiet 1949, 265–88; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 371–72; al-Asad 1992, 39–55; Lyster 1993, 65–66 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1899, 93–94, 101, 107–8; BCCMAA 1915–19, 830; BCCMAA 1927–29, 92–93; BCCMAA 1930–32, 92; BCCMAA 1933–35, 33, 40, 81, 86, 108–9, 114, 121–22, 130, 132, 167, 183, 186–87, 189, 192–93, 196, 200–201, 203, 205–6, 215–16, 238, 242, 250, 252, 259, 265–66, 275, 279, 416, 421; BCCMAA 1936–40, 2, 121, 124, 141, 144–46, 149–51, 154, 198–99, 203–7, 231, 233, 243, 245, 250–51, 253–55, 257, 275–77; BCCMAA 1941–45, 108, 134, 140–42, 156, 178, 180, 230, 346; BCCMAA 1946–53, 63, 67, 80, 139, 159, 164, 198, 248, 250
(504) House in the waqf of Banush Bey Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This large courtyard house was known also as Map sheet 13 and 20 Bircher House after a Swiss collector who lived here at the turn of the nineteenth century. Pauty (1933a) has a brief description of it, as well as photographs of the interior courtyard and street façade; the Allard Pierson Photographic Archive in Amsterdam also contains photographs of the house. All that remains of the house is a part of the external wall: the rest of the site has been split up and rebuilt. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 77 (no. 12); Pauty 1936, 37 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 806; BCCMAA 1930–32, 46; BCCMAA 1936–40, 97, 102; BCCMAA 1946–53, 53, 182
505 The Gawhara Palace 1229 / AD 1814 This is the second of two palaces built in hybrid Map sheet 9,3, and 10 Turkish Baroque style by Muhammad ‘Ali on the Citadel (see also no. 612), which remained in use until the opening of the Abdin Palace. The Gawhara (‘Jewel’) Palace actually adjoins the Palace of Justice, constructed slightly later (in AD 1830) to the southeast. Together, the palaces formed the center of Muhammad ‘Ali’s administration of Egypt, as the Gawhara Palace contained the audience hall of Muhammad ‘Ali, and the Palace of Justice housed offices for religious endowments, hospitals, the Arsenal, and public works, among other functions. The Gawhara Palace was damaged by fire in 1972 and has been partly restored by the SCA, although most of the building remains closed to the public. One interesting detail that can be observed on the eastern elevation of the palace facing the entrance area is a group of six reused carved and inscribed octagonal marble columns dating from the period of Sultan Qaytbay. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933b, 63–64, 91 (no. 58); Wiet 1949, 105–27, esp. 124–25; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 373–74; Lyster 1993, 60, 63, 68, 75, 79, 98–100; Jaubert 1995, 206
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Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 568, 635–36, 648–49, 699, 744; BCCMAA 1933, 25, 53–54, 103, 170; BCCMAA 1938, 141; BCCMAA 1941–45, 79–81, 94–95, 103, 116–17, 124–25, 140–42 (passim), 155, 179, 181, 237, 288, 354–55, 365; BCCMAA 1946–53, 40, 44, 80, 159
(506) Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya Before AH 1169 / AD 1755 This sabil-kuttab was deregistered and demolished Map sheet in the urban clearance that took place during the 13 building of the al-Azhar University campus. Prior to its destruction an inlaid marble pavement from the sabil was removed and placed in storage. The same founder also established a mosque outside the Bab al-Futuh (no. 558) which met a similar fate. Plan: None References: Sameh 1946, 40; Raymond 1979a, 286 (no. 124) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 22; BCCMAA 1915–19, 776; BCCMAA 1920–24, 355; BCCMAA 1925–26, 16; BCCMAA 1933–35, 141, 144; BCCMAA 1936–40, 114 (deregistration), 119; BCCMAA 1946–53, 292
507 Sabil of Kosa Sinan Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This sabil, now stranded on a busy intersection of Map sheet Shari‘ al-Azhar, was once part of a larger complex 13 that occupied the area where the road is today. It has been heavily restored by the SCA, and the upper story seems to have been incorporated into a house. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 285 (no. 125) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 90; BCCMAA 1902, 74; BCCMAA 1920–24, 255; BCCMAA 1946–53, 296
510 Qubba of Shaykh Su‘ud AH 941 / AD 1534 This tomb was built for a shaykh of the Rifa‘i order Map sheet as an addition to a zawiya; it appears in the waqf 15 of Sulayman Pasha, whose mosque (no. 142) is situated in the Citadel. The tomb has a stone base with original bronze window grilles, and a plastered-brick dome, originally covered in green tiles (like the domes of the mosque of Sulayman Pasha).
Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif and Fernandes 1984, 112; Behrens-Abouseif 1990, 49–55; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 187 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1911, 107–8; BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification)
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(514)
(534)
House of Khusraw Pasha
Maq‘ad of the Faramangui House
1065 / AD 1654–55 This was a courtyard house, now demolished, with at least one large qa‘a and a maq‘ad. The name of the owner bears no relation to the sixteenth-century Ottoman governor of Cairo. AH
Map sheet
13
Plan: None Reference: Pauty 1933b, 80–81 (no. 28) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 145, 164
Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This spectacular triple-arched maq‘ad was demolMap sheet ished in the 1960s. A photograph published in 15 Pauty 1933b (pl. xxxiia) provides a record of its appearance. Plan: None References: Pauty 1933b, 86 (no. 43); Pauty 1936, 37 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1946–53, 58, 60–61
(518)
541
Rab‘ of Qaytbay
House in the waqf of al-Mulla
ca. AH 896 / AD 1490 This building, shown on the 1924 Map of Map sheet Mohammedan Monuments, was located on the 31 Qalat al-Kabsh, where Qaytbay also built a mosque (no. 223). It was destroyed prior to 1951. Photographs show that the building, which was a rab‘ rather than a ‘house’ (as it is described in the Comité Bulletins), was split by an alley that was cut through its center. This also bisected the unusual stone inscription band located above the line of corbels that supported the first floor of the building. This inscription band was analogous to those on Qaytbay’s wikalas at the Bab al-Nasr (no. 9) and Shari‘ al-Surugiya (U77).
AH 1065 / AD 1654 A house has occupied this location since the fourMap sheet teenth century, although the present construction 19 dates from the seventeenth. It would have been a palatial residence in its prime, arranged around a large courtyard. No trace remains of the original entrance corridor running to this courtyard, which has now been filled with intrusive structures, and the remainder of the house is derelict or demolished with the exception of a large triple-arched maq‘ad. The building was first listed by the Comité in 1924.
Plan: None References: Van Berchen 1894, I:518–20 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 55–56; BCCMAA 1894, 85; BCCMAA 1897, 37 (demolition)
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 240 References: Pauty 1933b, 37, 56–57 (no. 11); Pauty 1936, 37; Revault and Maury 1979, III:77–92; Maury et al. 1983, 236–42 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1920–24, 324–25 (classification); BCCMAA 1930–32, 175, 199; BCCMAA 1933–35, 26, 157, 171, 179; BCCMAA 1936–40, 144, 147–48
521
545
Mosque of Ahmad Bey Kohya
House in the waqf of Mustafa Sinan
AH 710 / AD 1310 This mosque was converted from a large residential qa‘a belonging to a Mamluk palace. The central sec24 tion of the qa‘a is roofless, and the arches to the iwans are heavily propped. The whole space is inaccessible, derelict, and subject to occasional flooding with sewage water. The mihrab is located in a corner of the room, and the lower two and a half meters of the walls have been recently rebuilt in brick. There is a rather poorly rendered brick Ottoman minaret attached to the building. The street façade was added in the late nineteenth century, and what little survives after a major collapse and a fire resembles the domestic architecture of that period.
Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This house seems to have been built by the same patron as the nearby sabil (no. 246). It has shop 15 units at ground level, and mashrabiya windows project from the upper stories, which are derelict. It was registered as a monument in 1927–29
Plan: SCA Archive References: Lézine 1972b, 86–89, 130; Maury et al. 1982, 78–80; Ibrahim 1984, 53; Sayed 1987b, 45–48; Meinecke 1992, II:210–11; Jaubert 1995, 188 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1886, 10; BCCMAA 1901, 109–10; BCCMAA 1930–32, 271; BCCMAA 1946–53, 287, 348
Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The only surviving sections of this wikala are its beauMap sheet tiful portal with fanned voussoirs and stone-vaulted 23 entrance passage. The courtyard has disappeared under later rebuilding. An adjacent mosque of the same name, now also demolished, is mentioned in the Bulletin.
Map sheet
Map sheet
Plan: Hanna 1991, 105 References: Hanna 1991, 104–7; Jaubert 1995, 198 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1927–29, 189 (classification)
548 Wikala in the waqf al-Tutungi
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 34 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1927–29, 193
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549 Remains of the palace of al-Nasir Muhammad AH 714 / AD 1314 The whereabouts of this famous structure, known Map sheet as the Ablaq (or ‘Striped’) Palace, have been a mat9 ter of some debate. It was assumed until recently that the qa‘a al-Ashrafiya (U86), excavated in the 1980s, was part of this palace, in part because this structure is situated behind a small piece of surviving ablaq masonry on the outer face of the wall of Muhammad ‘Ali’s artillery platform. Rabbat (1995) has demonstrated that this position for the Qasr al-Ablaq is unlikely. The number 549 in the Index of Monuments is assigned on the accompanying map to the Burg al-Rafraf (U89), which is clearly a mistake. Creswell (1959) believed that the tunnel-vaulted and corbeled structure on the lower level of the Citadel (see U91) was the palace. It is far more likely, however, that the vast multilevel, vaulted substructure to the southwest of the mosque of Muhammad ‘Ali was the foundation for the Ablaq Palace, its uppermost level demolished by Muhammad ‘Ali to make way for his mosque. The attribution of Rabbat (1995) has led to the reassignation here of this Index number to a more probable site for al-Nasir Muhammad’s palace.
Plan: Rabbat 1995, 34 References: Pauty 1933b, 38–40, 63; Lézine 1972b, 66–72, 130; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 374; Meinecke 1992, II:114, 459; Lyster 1993, 27; Rabbat 1995, 34–36, 199–213; al-Harithy 2000, 234
550 Two street roofings behind the mosque of al-Ghuri Map sheet
20
AH 909–10 / AD 1504–5 These wooden roofs, with wind-scoops for ventilation and lighting, form part of the bazaar structure integral to the mosque of al-Ghuri (no. 189). All the shops in the bazaar beneath are modern.
Plan: Part of the mosque of al-Ghuri (no. 189) References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Jaubert 1995, 209 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 32
Ghurayib’ on the map of the Description de l’Égypte (État Moderne I, pl. 26). The gate is listed in the 1915–19 Bulletin together with the façade of the mosque of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, but it is listed in its own right in the 1930–32 Bulletin. Plan: Position from 1:1000 Survey of Egypt map References: Warner 1999, 286 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1902, 94–95 (not classified); BCCMAA 1915–19, 697; BCCMAA 1930–32, 32; BCCMAA 1933–35, 153
(552) Tiles in the mosque of al-Khudayri AH 1181 / AD 1767 A new mosque occupies this site, and no trace surMap sheet vives of the Ottoman tiles that warranted its list24 ing in the Index of Monuments; these may have been transferred to the Islamic Museum, although the site itself is still registered. The original mosque on this site was built for the Khalawati brotherhood of Sufis; it was rebuilt in 1863. Pauty (1936), who dates the structure to AD 1774, provides a sketch plan for what must have been this later rebuilding.
Plan: Pauty 1936, 13, fig. 12 References: Pauty 1936, 12, 13; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 352; Hamamsy 1992, 45–46 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 54; BCCMAA 1933–35, 308
553 Sabil-kuttab of Mustafa Shurbagi Mustahfizan AH 1094 / AD 1683 This Ottoman sabil-kuttab is attached to the southMap sheet eastern corner of a large wikala that is substantial20 ly demolished. The bronze grille on the eastern façade is original to the sabil; that on the southern side is not. The interior has a fine marble basin, and the remains of the original water-supply system survive.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 257–58 (no. 47) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 27
(551)
554
Bab al-Khala (al-Qarafa)
Zawiya of Gaf‘ar al-Sadiq
AH 566–72 (?) / AD 1171–76 (?) This gate was located behind the mosque of alMap sheet Azhar on Shari‘ al-Ghurayib, close to the mosque of 6 Sidi Muhammad al-Ghurayib built by ‘Abd alRahman Katkhuda (no. 448). It is indicated on Sheet 39L of the 1:1000 Survey of Egypt’s map (surveyed 1912, revised 1934 and printed in 1935) as ‘Bab al-Ghurayib (Bawwabet al-Khala)’ but has since been demolished. AlGabarti identified this gate as the Bab al-Barqiya (no. 614), through which access was obtained to the northern cemetery and the Muqattam Hills. It appears under the name ‘Bab al-
AH 1100 / AD 1688–89 This zawiya is shown on the 1950 1:5000 Map of Map sheet Mohammedan Monuments, but it is not included in 20 the Index of Monuments. The façade and interior of the building are completely new; two original inscriptions in marble that survive above the door are presumably the object of the listing.
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Plan: None References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31 and 34 n. 17 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 66
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555 Bab al-‘Azab 1168 / AD 1754 The southern enclosure walls of the Citadel, to Map sheet 9 and 16 which the Bab al-‘Azab was the principal gateway from the west, were rebuilt by Radwan Katkhuda alGalfi in AD 1754. The gate defended the approach to the inner road that led to the upper enclosures and served as the headquarters of the ‘Azaban corps of the Ottoman army. The appearance of the gate was altered by Khedive Isma‘il, who added neo-Gothic windows to the rear façade, a decorative cornice, and a raised curving carriageway facing the square. AH
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 172; BCCMAA 1941–45, 252; BCCMAA 1946–53, 81
(558) Mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya Before AH 1169 / AD 1755 This mosque, located immediately outside the Bab Map sheet al-Futuh, was demolished in the urban clearance 18 that took place outside the walls in 1947. It was one of the constructions of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda and included a sabil-kuttab.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 366; Lyster 1993, 48–49, 69 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1914, 52, 65, 68, 83, 100; BCCMAA 1941–45, 57
Plan: None References: Sameh 1946, 40; Raymond 1972, 241; Raymond 1979a, 277 (no. 98) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 174; BCCMAA 1933–35, 308; BCCMAA 1936–40, 178
556
559
Bab al-Mudarrag
House of Amna bint Salim
579 / AD 1183–84 ‘The Gate of the Steps’ was one of the original Map sheet entrances to the Citadel of Salah al-Din before 2 Muhammad ‘Ali constructed his ‘New Gate’ (Bab al-Gedid: U85) immediately to its west. It is the only separately listed section of the Citadel’s walls on the Index of Monuments. The through route into the northern enclosure is now obstructed by Muhammad ‘Ali’s Harim Palace (no. 612). The original foundation inscription commemorating the construction of the Citadel by Salah al-Din survives above the entrance into a vaulted bent entrance, on the walls of which the names and titles of al-Nasir Muhammad are painted. Three further inscriptions on the wall outside the gate commemorate restorations carried out by sultans Gaqmaq, Qaytbay, and Tumanbay I.
AH 947 / AD 1540 This courtyard house, together with the house and Map sheet sabil of al-Kritliya to which it is joined (no. 321), is 24 today part of the Gayer-Anderson Museum. The house stands on the western side of the alley and is the earlier of the pair. It contains the complex’s largest qa‘a, with an inlaid marble fountain within. The majority of rooms in the building are nonetheless the creations of Gayer-Anderson or the Comité. The edge of the house that abuts the wall of the ziyada of the mosque of Ibn Tulun (no. 220) has windows in it that are formed from the interstices of the crenellations around the ziyada.
AH
Plan: Creswell 1959, 34 References: Creswell 1959, 33–36; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 369; Meinecke 1992, II:192; Lyster 1993, 89–90; Rabbat 1995, 28–29, 68–69; Tabbaa 2002, 68–69 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1892, 21; BCCMAA 1946–53, 287
557 Sabil of al-Wafa‘iya 846 / AD 1442 This sabil, adjacent to the mosque of Inal al-Yusufi Map sheet (no. 118) has an original bronze grille with a wood24 en inscription mounted above it. A Comité timber projection above the sabil indicates a possible reconstruction (now lost) of a kuttab. The name ‘al-Wafa‘iya’ is often used in conjunction with the Sadat family (see no. 463), but there is no conclusive evidence that they were involved in the construction of this sabil. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Meinecke 1992, II:363 (erroneously listed under no. 447); Tantawi 1994, 110–11
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 174 References: Revault and Maury 1979, 53–76; Maury et al. 1983, 170–80; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 357–58; Longeaud 2002, 156–57, 171 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1920–24, 16; BCCMAA 1933–35, 48, 190, 259–60; BCCMAA 1936–40, 140; BCCMAA 1941–45, 15, 61, 63–64, 68, 70–71, 73–76, 89, 93–94, 96–98, 109, 112–14, 118–22, 123, 135, 198, 236
561 Sabil of al-Nasir Muhammad AH 726 / AD 1326 This is the earliest surviving sabil in Cairo, built on Map sheet the site of a preexisting hawd by the amir Arghun, 19 who was then the administrator of the bimaristan of Qalawun (see no. 43). The sabil is an L-shaped structure, supported on columns, that wraps around the northeastern corner of the madrasa of Qalawun. The interior contains an inscription band, panels of faience tiles, and a decorative dome. In the nineteenth century, the Comité removed a school that had been built above it in order to reveal the inscription band that runs around the external wall of the madrasa. The sabil was restored in 1997 by the Barakat Trust and was undergoing further work in 2003–2004.
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Plan: Meinecke 1992, I:45 References: Creswell 1959, 274–75; Meinecke 1977, 119–20; Ebeid 1976, 11–25; Meinecke 1992, II:204–5 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1905, 37; BCCMAA 1909, 49–50 (classification); BCCMAA 1930–32, 251–52
562 Hammam of Inal AH 861 / AD 1456 This bathhouse—originally a double bathhouse (the Map sheet female section has been demolished)—is named 19 after the sultan who developed the site in the fifteenth century as part of a palace. It is known also by the name ‘al-Baysari,’ although the evidence suggests that this was in fact another bathhouse located slightly to the north. There are two surviving inscriptions on the portal lintel and one jamb. The dilapidated Ottoman disrobing-room leads to a series of domed spaces with sunken tanks for hot and cold water. The bathhouse is still in use.
Plan: Courtesy Atef Fahim, Architect References: Pauty 1933a, 52; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 239; Meinecke 1992, II:381; Denoix et al. 1999, II:26–27; Ismail 2000, 187–89 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 33–35, 70, 250
564 Hammam al-Tanbali Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This eighteenth-century bathhouse still functions Map sheet despite all odds. It was represented in its heyday by 25 Pascal Coste, who devoted a full page of architectural illustration to it in his L’architecture arabe. The interior still has many original elements, including domes with inset glass lights and tank rooms with columnar supports. The building was deregistered and then subsequently re-registered as a monument (without a number) in 1991. The old registration number is given here. Plan: Mostafa 1992, 328 References: Pauty 1933a, 49; Raymond 1969, 138 (no. 73); Warner 2002, 60–61 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930–32, 248
565 Mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir AH 1233 / AD 1817 This nineteenth-century mausoleum was moved in Map sheet 1951 from its original emplacement near the 30 mosque of Sayyida Zaynab to a new position in the garden next to the mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir (no. 210). Ahmad Pasha Tahir was the brother of Hasan Pasha, an official in the court of Muhammad ‘Ali. The tomb has a stone dome, with a large apsidal projection on the qibla side, and peculiar chimneylike turrets on its four corners.
Plan: SCA Archive
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References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 333; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 166–67 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 7, 12, 13
(566) Hammam al-Effendi Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This now-destroyed bathhouse, probably Fatimid Map sheet in origin, was located close to the Salihiya, 19 directly behind the maq‘ad of Mamay al-Sa‘ifi (no. 51). The calidarium was listed in 1933, but the entire hammam was deregistered in 1944 owing to its ruinous condition. Plan: Pauty 1933a, 53 References: Pauty 1933a, 53; Sayyid 1998, 324–25 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 253
(567) Hammam al-‘Adawi Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This building was demolished at the time of the Map sheet remodeling of Midan al-Husayn. A sketch plan by 12 Pauty survives, and a more accurate drawing of the central calidarium exists in the SCA Archive, which is shown here. The bath was presumably named after the shaykh buried in the mosque of Almalik al-Gukandar (no. 24). Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933a, 53 Listing and conservation: None
569 Cistern in the Citadel AH 712 / AD 1312 Located to the south of the mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun (no. 143) and the 9 Mamluk kitchens (U82) is a rock-cut well or cistern that was omitted from the published Index of Monuments, but appears on the accompanying 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments. It seems to have been the endpoint for the aqueduct, constructed by al-Nasir Muhammad, that brought water from the Nile to the Citadel via a pumping station located below the walls of the Citadel (see no. 369) and a rock-cut tunnel (shown as a dotted line extending to map sheet 10). The cistern is known as ‘the Well of the Seven Waterwheels.’
Map sheet
Plan: SCA Archive References: Rabbat 1995, 270–71 Listing and conservation: None
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586 Tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian AH 1052 / AD 1642 This tomb was originally constructed by Ibrahim Map sheet Agha Mustahfizan for his own burial. It was later 15 dedicated to one of his officers, who died in AD 1655, by which time Ibrahim Agha had already created a finer mausoleum for himself within the precincts of the nearby mosque of Aqsunqur (no. 123). The façade has two bays (over which a centered inscription extends), in addition to the portal, which is considerably sunk into the ground. The tomb has a simple but very high stone dome set on fine squinches internally. It is also remarkable for the fact that its mihrab is offset by about thirty degrees to compensate for the difference between the geometry of the street and qibla orientation. Two marble cenotaphs lie under the dome, also offset to this angle. The entry corridor also gives access, through some subsidiary rooms, to the sabil (see no. 238) under the adjacent house (no. 613), both of which were also built by Ibrahim Agha. The documentary evidence cited by Behrens-Abouseif (1994) suggests that the date of this tomb should be revised from the date given in the Index of Monuments (AH 1001 / AD 1593) to the date given above.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Mantran 1972, 214–15; Raymond 1979b, 121–23; BehrensAbouseif 1994, 171–72, 263–64 Listing and conservation: see references for no. 238
588 Sabil-kuttab of Husayn al-Shu’aybi Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This sabil-kuttab, originally attached to a house, Map sheet is one of seven surviving Ottoman bow-fronted 18 sabils in Cairo. It has three arched openings to the street, with fine bronze grilles set in stonedecorated with strapwork. Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1936, 25 (under no. 496); Raymond 1979a, 284–85 (no. 120) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 806; BCCMAA 1920–24, 351–52; BCCMAA 1933–35, 331; SCA 2002, 123–26
590 Mausoleum of Husam al-Din al-Turuntay AH 689 / AD 1290 This tomb is the only remnant of a Shafi‘i madrasa Map sheet (see no. [186]) built by an amir of Sultan Qalawun 27 who was executed by Qalawun’s son Khalil shortly after his father’s death. The tomb is hemmed in by recent construction, and fragments of columns and capitals from the madrasa lie in the road in front of the building. Within the tomb chamber is a pool of groundwater, currently two meters deep. There are two surviving stucco inscription bands on the inner surface of the dome, a beautiful stucco mihrab hood, and another painted wood inscription band. One keelarched stucco niche survives on the western façade.
Plan: Kessler 1971 References: Pauty 1929, 146 and pl. iii.12 (muqarnas); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 281–82; Meinecke 1992, II:70; O’Kane 2000, 157 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 31 (classification); BCCMAA 1908, 35 (under the name ‘Fadl Allah’). See also references for no. (186)
591 Sabil and wikala of Udah Basha AH 1084 / AD 1673 This wikala was known also as the Khan al-Khaysh, Map sheet occupied by merchants from the Fayyum dealing in 11 and 18 fabrics. The sabil is inscribed “built by Muhammad and his brother Dhulfiqar in 1084,” and it has a tiled lunette above the window opening. It also contains an inlaid marble salsabil with carved wooden muqarnas hood and wooden cupboards. The wikala has an arched decorated stone portal; the courtyard into which it once led has been largely destroyed. The contemporaneous zawiya to the south of the wikala was at one time separately listed (see no. [371]). A program of heavy restoration of the wikala took place from 2000 to 2003.
Plan: CMP Survey References: J. Williams 1969, 457; Raymond 1979a, 255 (no. 41); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 273 (no. 134); Aalund 1980, 39 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1891, 45; BCCMAA 1897, 83–84 (house); BCCMAA 1915–19, 781; BCCMAA 1930–32, 33; SCA 2002, 64–65, 337–48
592 Hammam al-Malatyali AH 1194 / AD 1780 This hammam may well date to an earlier period, Map sheet but since rebuilding was commonplace for bath25 houses, the current construction is likely to be Ottoman, as is borne out by stylistic details such as the stone decoration to the façade. The façade consists of two portals surmounted by square muqarnas hoods; two round arched windows between them are framed by decorative moldings. The eastern portal provides access to the male section of the bathhouse. An adjacent, smaller women’s bathhouse of the same period is accessed by the slightly smaller western portal. Only the corbels of the building’s upper story survive. Both male and female sections of the bathhouse are still in use despite the extreme degradation of the fabric of the building internally and externally. The bathhouse was also registered under the number (490) together with the house that once stood above it.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933a, 51–52; Raymond 1969, 135 (no. 40); Warner 2002, 51 BCCMAA 1930–32, 248
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593 Hawd of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan AH 1070 / AD 1659 This is another of Ibrahim Agha’s many construcMap sheet tions along the Darb al-Ahmar. The watering trough, 8 attached to the southern end of the Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri (see no. 249), has a fine inscription block in place on the façade. The building has no roof, and the entire back wall is missing, which make it difficult to identify.
Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, 67 (part of plan of Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri, no. 249 above) References: Mantran 1972, 227–28; Revault and Maury 1977, 61–76; Raymond 1979a, 121–23 Listing and conservation: See references for no. 249
(595) House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha Map sheet
AH 1062/ AD 1652 See no. (457) above.
15
596 Hammam al-Sukkariya Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD A double bathhouse for men and women, in the Map sheet name of Qadi al-Fadil, has stood on this site since 20 the twelfth century AD. The present structure is probably a later rebuilding. The bathhouse was at one time in the waqf of Qalawun; it passed into the hands of Nafisa al-Bayda, who owned the adjacent wikala (no. 395), in the late eighteenth century. Only the men’s half of the bathhouse survives, its entrance located on the Sukkariya. This was in use until recently, and it conforms to the standard model of Cairene bathhouse, with a disrobing room and central domed space, off of which lie the smaller domed tank rooms. The women’s section was accessed from the small alley (known as the ‘Atfat al-Hammam) running to the north of the wikala of Nafisa al-Bayda. Plan: Badr and Crecelius, 1995, 139 References: Pauty 1933a, 56; Badr and Crecelius 1995; Raymond 1979a, 284 (no. 118); Sayyid 1998, 324 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 65
597 Wikalat al-Muhammadayn Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AH The façade, portal, and entry passageway of the Map sheet building were classified between 1933 and 1935. 19 The interior of the wikala is currently occupied by coal-smelting works and metal-working trades, and is substantially destroyed. Raymond and Wiet (1979) suggest that this may be the wikalat al-Khatib mentioned in the
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Description de l’Égypte as a wikala for goldsmiths. More likely is the attribution by Hanna (1998) that the wikala was one of a pair built in the seventeenth century by the merchant Isma‘il Abu Takiya and his partner (see no. 179). The Comité first assigned this wikala the number 500, which had already been given to the façade of the house of al-Kashif; it was subsequently given a new registration number. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 33, 34 (as no. 500); Scharabi 1978, 163; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 277 (no. 167); Aalund 1980, 40; Hanna 1998, 127–30 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 125, 127
(598) Wikala in the waqf al-Haramayn AH 1080 / AD 1669 This wikala, built by Murtada Agha ibn Muhammad, Map sheet was deregistered after 1951. Although the upper 19 floors of the building have been destroyed, and a large modern apartment block has been built on the southwestern corner of the block, the form of the interior courtyard bounded by stone arches (a perfect square) is still visible. The report of the Comité refers to a zawiya (no longer extant) in the middle of the courtyard. Pauty (1936) ascribed the number 501 to this building (another instance of ‘double-listing’).
Plan: École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987, 31 References: Pauty 1936, 33 (as monument no. 501); Scharabi 1978, 162; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 286 (no. 258); Aalund 1980, 40; École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987; Denoix et al. 1999, II:63–64 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 125, 127
604 Wikala of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar AH 1253 / AD 1837 A khan has stood on this site since the Mamluk periMap sheet od. The present structure was built by the rapacious 12 and 19 Sulayman, Muhammad ‘Ali’s armorer; its portal and façade were listed in 1937. Despite number accretions, the basic structure of the building is discernible on both the ground floor and the first floor. The entrance to the courtyard is from the north through a finely carved stone gateway.
Plan: Courtesy Suhayr Salih References: Mantran 1972, 229 (no. 28); Scharabi 1978, 163; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 288 (no. 270); Denoix et al. 1999, II:32–33 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1936–40, 69 (classification); SCA 2002, 173–74
605 The Archives Building AH 1244 / AD 1828 The Dar al-Mahfuzat, or Daftarkhana, was built durMap sheet ing the reign of Muhammad ‘Ali in an attempt to 9 centralize Egypt’s already expanding bureaucracy on the site of the old Mamluk ceremonial drum-station (tablakhana) at the entrance to the Citadel. The administration
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was divided into three sections (for Arabic records, Turkish records, and Arabic petitions), grouped around a central courtyard approached by a fortified gateway. The building was extended in 1935 on the western side (where the present entrance is located), and more recently to the east. The steps on the southern side of the building occupy the space of the old ramp that once led up to the Bab al-Mudarrag (no. 556). Half-way up these steps, embedded in the masonry of the retaining wall of the forecourt to the main building, is a portion of an earlier Ottoman stone façade, which is decorated with carved strapwork.
used by the palace guards. The building is today occupied by the National Military Museum.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Mantran 1972, 230–31; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 368; Lyster 1993, 63, 89 Listing and conservation: None
AH 1062 / AD 1652 This building is shown only on the English version Map sheet of the 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments. It 15 is, in fact, the rab‘ that is located at no. 45, Bab alWazir, between the sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan (no. 238) and the tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian (no. 586). The ground floor is occupied by shop units, and a staircase leads to the upper story, which has stone corbels projecting into the street. The house seems to continue over the sabil of the same builder (no. 238).
606 The Mint 1227 / AD 1812 The Mint and Treasury have occupied a site in this Map sheet area of the Citadel since at least the sixteenth cen2 and 3 tury AD. It was rebuilt in 1709 by the Janissary Corps of the Ottoman army and remodeled by Muhammad ‘Ali in 1812. The building consists of a series of domed and vaulted rooms around a rectangular court; it has been heavily propped up since the earthquake of 1992 and has been under restoration since 2003. On one side of the court stands a curious oval building in stone, which has lost its roof; its function is unclear. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Lyster 1993, 44, 47, 61, 101 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 355; BCCMAA 1946–53, 159
609 House in the waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri AH 1040–45 / AD 1630–35 This courtyard house was listed in 1937. The buildMap sheet ing has a fine maq‘ad and a qa‘a on the second floor, 20 the latter containing marble revetments and an alcove that projects into the courtyard with a mashrabiya and a minute but ornate wooden dome. The house is partially occupied by squatters and is substantially derelict.
Plan: Buckland Citadel Survey, 1913 References: Wiet 1949, 105–27; Mantran 1972, 229; Lyster 1993, 103–6; Jaubert 1995, 206 Listing and conservation: None
613 House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
Plan: Hanna 1991, 93 References: Hanna 1991, 90–93 Listing and conservation: see references for no. 238
614 Bab al-Barqiya 566–72 / AD 1171–76 The position of the remains of this structure is Map sheet marked on the Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral 6 Plan, which ascribes to it the number 352 (the same number as the northern Fatimid walls on map sheet 18). The attribution (under either no. 614 or no. 352) of this structure is entirely erroneous, however, since excavations in the area revealed it to be nothing more than a continuation of the wall of Salah al-Din (no. 307). The position of the Ayyubid Bab al-Barqiya is probably the gate recently discovered slightly to the south, and the confusion is compounded by the presence in the vicinity of both the Fatimid Bab al-Tawfiq (see U10), and the Bab al-Khala (no. [551]), both of which have also been identified as the Bab al-Barqiya. AH
Plan: Maury et al. 1983, 156 (first-floor plan) References: Revault 1979, 297–98; Maury et al. 1983, 152–68; Revault 1989, 43–59; Jaubert 1995, 199 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1936–40, 77, 79; BCCMAA 1941–45, 218, 225; BCCMAA 1946–53, 177–78, 295, 309, 329–30.
Plan: Position from Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1952, 27–28; Wiet 1961, 13–20; Warner 1999, 290–91; Sayyid 1998, 154–55, 394–97, 418–24; Pradines, Michaudel, and Monchamp 2002 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915–19, 748; BCCMAA 1920–24, 341; BCCMAA 1941–45, 127, 130, 131, 144, 162
612
615
The Harim Palace
Façade of the wikala of Bedawiya Shahin
AH 1234 / AD 1827 Built by Muhammad ‘Ali, this vast palace is an Map sheet amalgam of Turkish baroque and European styles. 2 and 9 The central and western sections of the palace originally served as the private residence of Muhammad ‘Ali and his family, while the eastern portion was
AH 1189 / AD 1766 This site was occupied by a commercial building Map sheet since AD 1108, but the present structure is a rebuild19 ing by Bedawiya Shahin, the mother of Ruqayya Dudu, who also constructed a more famous bowfronted sabil for her daughter (no. 337). All that remains of the
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wikala today is a fine carved stone portal (its interior is now occupied by a shop) and a secondary portal to the east. Plan: None References: Scharabi 1978, 162; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 280 (no. 206); Denoix et al. 1999 II:30 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 238
616 Gate of the Bayt al-Qadi Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This vaulted stone entrance served as the principal Map sheet 12 and 19 route under the nineteenth-century courthouse attached to the maq‘ad of Mamay al-Sa‘ifi (no. 51). It was listed in 1943, in isolation from the rest of the building. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1: 500 Cadastral Plan References: see Hanna 1984, 46 Listing and Conservation: BCCMAA 1936–40, 339; BCCMAA 1941–45, 170
617 Wall of the Qaramidan AH 712 / AD 1312 This wall formed part of the western boundary of Map sheet the Mamluk hippodrome (the Qaramidan) below 16 the Citadel. The Qaramidan, or ‘Black Square,’ served as one of Cairo’s principal arenas for displays of horsemanship during the Mamluk period. The date ascribed to the wall, which was classified in 1941–45, implies that it is believed to have been built by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, although modifications to the enclosure were made in the early sixteenth century by Sultan al-Ghuri. Engravings from the eighteenth century show the midan entirely enclosed by buildings. About twenty meters of the wall, topped by rounded crenellations, survive in the middle of a cement-works, although the adjacent ground level has risen by at least three meters. The wall would appear to have been refaced on several occasions.
The following section of the catalog principally deals with unregistered buildings, but also includes monuments that have been registered subsequent to 1950 but do not follow the sequence of the earlier published index. References and conservation histories are included here only to the extent that such documentation is known. The dating of many of the buildings should be regarded as provisional.
U1 Wikalat al-Shishini ca. AH 1107 / AD 1695 The wikalat al-Shishini is a late seventeenth11 century AD wikala built for coffee merchants. It is more commonly known as the wikala of Sulayman Agha, after the ‘Controller of Armies’ for Muhammad ‘Ali. Sulayman Agha probably purchased the property in the nineteenth century, along with other buildings in the area; his eponymous mosque (no. 382) is located to the east (map sheet 18). The entire ground floor of the wikala is in a good state of preservation. Map sheet
Plan: After SCA Archive References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 293 (no. 319)
U2 Tomb of Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This small tomb with a ribbed plastered-brick dome 11 is attached to a modern mosque of the same name. An original Ottoman minaret and simple trilobed portal also survive as part of the same mosque. Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey
Plan: SCA Archive References: Meinecke 1992, II:112 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 209, 261
619 House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha AH 1062 / AD 1652 This house, wedged between the mosques of Map sheet Aqsunqur (no. 123) and Khayrbak (no. 248), is one 15 of the many developments of Ibrahim Agha along the Darb al-Ahmar. The qa‘a at first-floor level was recently destroyed. A project to restore the house was initiated by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in 2000.
Plan: Hanna 1991, 89 References: Raymond 1979b, 121–23; Hanna 1991, 87–89 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1936–40, 224, 225, 266, 341, 343–45; BCCMAA 1941–45, 18, 280, 367
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U3 House of al-Khorazati AH 1299 / AD 1881 This two-story house lies between the house of al18 Sihaymi (no. 339), and the house of Mustafa Gaf‘ar (no. 471). It is possible that it once formed part of a single large domicile with the above two houses, with a date far earlier than its superficial appearance would suggest. The house, owned by the SCA, was renovated in 2000.
Map sheet
Plan: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 42 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 42 Conservation: SCA 2002, 199–212 (passim)
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U4 Hammam al-Gamaliya Before AH 1152 / AD 1739 This hammam is atttached to the mosque of Sa‘id Map sheet al-Su‘ada (no. 480), which it may have directly 18 served at some point in its history. It is no longer in use, but the structure survives intact. The building was registered as a monument (without a number) in 1986. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1933a, 52; Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33
U5 Wikalat al-Mulla al-Kabira Map sheet
18
Before AH 1112 / AD 1700 This wikala, known today as the wikala of Zaynab Khatun, was used by coffee merchants. The building is totally derelict, but the structure around the central courtyard is still clearly visible at ground level.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 284 (no. 241)
with Midan al-Gaysh. A small section of the wall connecting to it, running north-south, can still be seen slightly to the north of the gateway’s location, which appears to have been almost totally rebuilt by the Comité (see no. 352 above). Plan: Creswell 1952, 25 References: Creswell 1952, 25–26 Conservation: BCCMAA 1925–26, 4–5
U9 Mosque of Shams al-Din al-Ramli Before AH 957 / AD 1550 This Ottoman mosque is entered through a simple Map sheet trilobed portal, to the left of which lies an inscribed 25 marble plaque that belonged to a drinking-spout. The interior comprises a main prayer space, the roof of which is supported on a single antique column, with an ancillary tomb chamber. Shams al-Din al-Ramli (d. AD 1550) was the son of Shehab al-Din al-Ramli, a famous Shafi‘i master of jurisprudence (for whom the mosque was originally built): both father and son are buried in the tomb chamber. Plan: CMP Survey
U6
U10
Mosque of al-Shuhada
Bab al-Tawfiq
1281 / AD 1864 This nineteenth-century stone mosque (known also Map sheet by the name ‘al-Hittu’) provides a distinctive land18 mark on Shari‘ al-Gamaliya. It has a minaret over its trilobed portal and a projecting wooden balcony at first-floor level, which is the principal level of the mosque. The main space has one lateral and one axial iwan, with a tomb chamber adjacent to the latter.
AH 480 / AD 1087 This Fatimid gateway to Cairo was excavated in 1960. Map sheet Wiet (1961) identified it with the Bab al-Barqiya (no. 5 614). The gate is approximately three meters below ground level and consists of a simple pointed-arch stone vault; an inscription in marble attached to its face identifies Badr al-Gamali as its builder and gives the name of the gate and the date of its construction. A subsequent facing (also Fatimid) appears to have been added to the exterior of the vault to provide a machicoulis. The precise relationship between the Fatimid wall and the Ayyubid wall that runs a few meters to the east at this point can be resolved only through further excavation.
AH
Plan: CMP Survey References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33; Hamamsy 1992, 47, 91–98
U7 House of al-Agam AH 1288 / AD 1871 This nineteenth-century house was built by Map sheet Persian merchants, from which derives its local 18 name: the takiyat Iraniya. It originally comprised three stories above a vaulted stone basement; the topmost story has collapsed.
Plan: CMP Survey
U8 Bab al-Qantara AH 480 / AD 1087 The Bab al-Qantara, part of Badr al-Gamali’s city Map sheet wall, was partially revealed by excavations under25 taken by Achille Patricolo (head of the Comité’s Technical Bureau) in 1920. Today it lies hidden beneath the surface of Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush at its junction
Plan: CMP Survey References: Wiet 1961, 13–20; Sayyid 1998, 418–24; Warner 1999, 287–89
U11 Tower no. 17 566 (?) / AD 1170 (?) This roughly semicircular defensive tower seems to lie Map sheet on the line of the northeastern wall of Cairo originally 5 constructed by Badr al-Gamali ca. AD 1087. The tower was probably part of Salah al-Din’s reconstruction of the walls of Badr al-Gamali before he undertook the project of building his own fortifications around the city in 1176. The French Expedition may have converted it to accommodate cannons in 1796. The tower is faced today in rough stonework with some dressed stone elements. It was given the number 17 in 1902 during the survey of the Ayyubid wall by the Austrian architect Edouard Matasek. AH
Plan: CMP Survey References: Warner 1999, 285
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U12 Mosque of Isma‘il al-Sha’rani Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This plain Ottoman mosque is entered through a Map sheet trilobed inscribed stone portal surrounded by deco12 rative strapwork. Adjacent to the entrance is the surviving base of the minaret. The mosque itself (heavily renovated) is composed of two arched arcades carried on marble columns with Corinthian capitals. The shaykh after whom the mosque is named is buried in a room to the north, although it seems likely that the tomb dates later than the mosque itself. Plan: CMP Survey
U13 Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Pasha AH 1281 / AD 1864 This sabil-kuttab, built by the uncle of Khedive Map sheet Tawfiq, is unique in that its façade curves away 12 from, rather than into, the street that it borders. It is an extremely ornate building, even by the standards of the Muhammad ‘Ali period, with arched sabil openings clad in marble, heavily carved wooden eaves, brightly colored paintwork on the upper wooden loggia, and a clock integrated into the decorative schema of the first floor. Registered in the 1946–53 Bulletin without a number, the building has proved impossible to access; the interior is under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Education.
Plan: None References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33; Hamamsy 1992, 185–90; Jaubert 207 Listing: BCCMAA 1933–35, 334; BCCMAA 1946–53, 318
U14 Wikalat al-Gulshaniya Before AH 1215 / AD 1800 A wikala has stood on this site since AD 1554, but the Map sheet present structure may be a later rebuilding. The wikala, 19 with a sabil-kuttab, is located immediately to the north of the qa‘a of Muhib al-Din al Muwaqqi (no. 50). Its current use is domestic, which may account for its good state of preservation: both the ground floor and the first floor survive intact. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 290 (no. 60); Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33; Denoix et al. 1999, II:23–24
U15 Wikalat ‘Ain al-Gazal Before AH 1160 / AD 1747 Raymond and Wiet (1979) suggest that this unusuMap sheet ally named wikala (‘Eyes of the Gazelle’) may have 19 been associated with a military officer called Yusuf ibn ‘Ain al-Gazal, active in the mid-seventeenth century. The wikala is tiny but well preserved. Its courtyard,
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roofed over in concrete at first-floor level, is occupied by diverse minor trades; the upper floors give an excellent idea of the traditional layout of such a building. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 262 (no. 17)
U16 Hammam al-Nahhasin Before AH 1215 / AD 1800 This bathhouse, often referred to as the ‘hammam of Map sheet Qalawun’ on account of its proximity to the complex of 19 that name, was still functioning until 2002; groundwater and sewage seepage necessitated its closure. It is known also historically as the hammam al-Bayatira or the hammam al-Saga. A bathhouse has existed on this site since the Fatimid period, although the present structure is probably Ottoman in date. It was registered as a monument in 1999 but has no number. Plan: Courtesy Dr. Atef Fahim, architect References: Pauty 1933a, 53; Tuchscherer 1991, 322–23, 338 and n. 52; Sayyid 1998, 324; Denoix et al. 1999, II:18
U17 Wikalat al-‘Asal Eleventh–thirteenth century AH / Seventeenth–nineteenth century AD This wikala (properly a sugar refinery, from which it Map sheet derives its popular name: ‘the wikala of honey’) is 19 located immediately opposite the wikala of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi (no. 411) to the south. The rab‘ on the upper floors appears to date to the nineteenth century, but the stonework and corbeling of the ground floor indicate an earlier date for the foundation. Denoix et al. (1999) suggest a date comparable to that of the wikala of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi. Plan: École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987, 30 References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33; École d’Architecture de Versailles 1987, 29–30; Denoix et al. 1999, II:56
U18 Synagogue of Ha‘im Capusi ca. AH 1009–1349 / AD 1600–1930 The famous rabbi and Kabbalist Ha‘im Capusi (AD Map sheet 1540–1631) arrived in Cairo from the Maghreb 19 before 1600. He is buried in Basatin. His complex in the old Jewish Quarter of the city comprises an entrance court, subsidiary rooms, a backyard, and the main building. The synagogue seems to have been renovated in 1883 and most recently in the 1930s. Its plan combines both axial and centralized geometries. The lavishly decorated marble Torah Ark and pulpit are located on the cross-axis of the building, with a dome raised on four columns between them. The women’s gallery and stair leading to it are intact. The building was registered as a monument in 1987 but has no number. Plan: ARCE/EAP 1995, 13 References: Cassuto 1988, 4–13; ARCE/EAP 1995
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U19 Wikala of ‘Umar ibn Trak Eleventh–thirteenth century (?) AH / Seventeenth–nineteenth century (?) AD Although the façade of this wikala dates from the Map sheet nineteenth century, stonework from a much earlier 19 period (possible the seventeenth century) survives around its courtyard. The name of the wikala was given by local informants. Plan: SCA Archive
U20 House entrance, no. 22, Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiya Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This substantial dog-legged stone-vaulted entrance Map sheet is part of a street façade that survives complete 19 with its corbels. The interior of the courtyard beyond is now occupied by industrial workshops, but the remains of a large maq‘ad can be seen in the southwestern corner. The name of the house to which these components belong is unknown. Plan: CMP Survey
Ark, which must have been mounted on the eastern wall, is no longer in situ, and the building is used as a workshop. An adjacent building to the south, once belonging to the synagogue, has been demolished. Plan: CMP Survey
U23 Church of the Holy Order of St. Francis AH 1271 / AD 1854 This large church in classical style is the third Map sheet church of the Franciscan Order to stand on this site, 26 part of which was occupied since the sixteenth century by the Venetian Embassy in Cairo. Saint Francis visited Egypt in AD 1219 and met with the Ayyubid sultan Malik al-Kamil. Small Franciscan groups lived in Egypt for the next four hundred years, but it was not until 1630 that the first prefect of the order arrived in Cairo and took up residence in the Venetian Embassy. Attached to the present building is a large annex built in 1932 that houses the friary and the Bibliothèque du Centre Franciscain d’Études Orientales Chrétiennes.
Plan: Bibliothèque du Centre Franciscain d’Études Orientales Chrétiennes References: Van Zeelst 1991, 1121–24
U24 U21
Synagogue of Maimonides Sixth–fourteenth century AH / Twelfth–twentieth century AD Moses Maimonides, the famous Jewish doctor and Map sheet rabbi, settled in Cairo in AD 1165 and was buried in 26 this synagogue upon his death in 1204. His body was subsequently moved to Tiberias in Palestine. The synagogue itself has been rebuilt over the centuries; the last reconstruction, commemorating the 800th anniversary of Maimonides’ birth, likely dates to 1935. The complex comprises an entrance court with an inscribed portal, subsidiary rooms, and a square hall at a much lower level to the southeast; the latter (heavily rebuilt) are what remains of the original synagogue: the Ramban Yeshiva. The main building is roofless; a wooden Torah Ark is set on the eastern wall, and a raised marble pulpit at its center. The women’s gallery to the west is missing. The building was registered as a monument in 1986, but it has no number. Plan: ARCE/EAP 1996, 12 References: Cassuto 1988, 4–13; ARCE/EAP 1996
U22 Karaite Synagogue Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This synagogue is a simple, square stone building Map sheet with a marble inscription in Hebrew mounted above 26 the entrance. There is a first-floor women’s gallery on the western wall, which appears to have lost any means of access it once had. The ceiling has a large, wooden elliptical starburst motif with a lantern at its center. The Torah
Portal of the wikalat al-Mihmandariya Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD The entrance portal of this typical Ottoman wikala Map sheet survives intact, and traces of the arched stone units 19 surrounding the courtyard can still be discerned among later accretive structures. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 282, 228; Denoix et al. 1999, II:56–57
U25 Structure adjacent to Ayyubid wall Thirteenth century (?) AH / Nineteenth century (?) AD During the course of excavation of the Ayyubid Map sheet wall (see no. 307) in this area, an unidentified, 6 windowless stone structure was revealed at a much higher stratum than the wall itself. This takes the form of a vaulted room flanked by four other vaulted rooms, two on each side. The level of the foundation suggests that it may have been constructed during the nineteenth century, perhaps as part of the cemetery of alGhurayib in this area, although the orientation of the building is not that of a tomb. It is included here principally to distinguish it from the adjacent wall, from which it is completely separate in time and space. Plan: CMP Survey References: Warner 1999, 295–96
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U26 Minaret and portal to the madrasat al-Ghanamiya Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD The minaret and portal to the madrasat alMap sheet Ghanamiya (no. 96) still stand on the adjacent street. 13 The minaret’s lower story is original, with a crude upper tier added to it, and is built directly over the portal that led into the complex. The other parts of the building have been destroyed. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Creswell 1919, 113–14; Pauty 1933b, 46, 80 (no. 23); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinecke 1992, II:253 Listing and conservation: Herz 1914 [1882–1910], 61; BCCMAA 1915–19, 89, 110–14, 511, 518, 546, 554, 583, 695, 773, 778; BCCMAA 1920–24, 339, 360; BCCMAA 1930–32, 144, 163
U27 Takiya of Abu’l Dhahab ca. AH 1318 / AD 1900 This building was constructed over and around Map sheet parts of the complex of Abu’l Dhahab (see nos. 62 13 and 98) at the end of the nineteenth century. The structure is stone, with three courtyard spaces (one containing the ablutions area for the mosque) that have fine wooden balustrades and a wooden inner structure that extends up to three stories. The building is currently unoccupied.
columns, although the mosque has been recently extended to the west. Only the antique parts of the plan are shown on the map sheet. The mihrab and marblework are all modern. The squinches of the dome over the tomb chamber are unusually complex for the period, although the construction above them is modern, as is the minaret above the main entrance. Plan: CMP Survey References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 267
U30 Hammam al-Sharaybi Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This bathhouse was entirely reconstructed after its Map sheet demolition in the 1970s but is now permanently shut. 20 It was subsequently registered as a monument in 1985, in conjunction with the wikala of al-Sharaybi (no. 460), but without a number. Plan: Prof. Dr. Saleh Lamei, Centre for the Conservation and Preservation of Islamic Architectural Heritage References: Pauty 1933a, 54
U31 Zawiyat al-Harisi Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This small Ottoman zawiya has an extremely ornate Map sheet façade with decorative stone strapwork. 20
Plan: Courtesy, Seif el-Rashidi Plan: Courtesy M. Abu’l Amayem
U28
U32
Wikala of Bakr Shurbagi (?) Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD The entrance to this wikala has been completely Map sheet filled in by a modern shop-unit, but the interior 13 courtyard is well preserved, with stone arches around the perimeter at the ground and first stories, and remnants of a brick second story. The façade is ruined, but the remains of broken vaults on the second floor are visible from the street. Raymond and Wiet (1979) indicate a wikala of the above name in this location. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 265 (no. 47)
U29 Mosque of Ahmad al-Dardir ca. AH 1200 / AD 1785 Ahmad al-Dardir (AD 1715–86) was a famous shaykh Map sheet of the Khalawati order of Sufis and gives his name 13 to the street on which his mosque stands. His tomb in this mosque is a much-venerated shrine. The mosque is approached through a trilobed portal with inlaid tiles and decorative strapwork. A baffled corridor leads into a prayer hall that preserves its two original arcades, supported on antique
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Ottoman maq‘ad Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This triple-arched maq‘ad, although walled in, is remarkably well preserved, with an intact decorated wood ceilMap sheet ing. The placement of the maq‘ad’s ancillary rooms 20 on vaults above the adjacent street to the south is an unusual feature. Plan: CMP Survey
U33 Wikalat al-Sayf Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This is a fine nineteenth-century interpretation of the traditional Cairene style of wikala; its long, narrow Map sheet internal court is covered by a wooden roof with 20 malqafs. The façade treatments are entirely classical. Plan: Bulletin d’Information Architecturale 1983 (unpaginated) References: Bulletin d’Information Architecturale 1983; Jaubert 1995, 209 (no. 73)
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U34 Cathedral of St. Nicholas AH 1306 / AD 1888 This cathedral-church of the Greek Orthodox faith is Map sheet a rectangular building with eight columns within 20 supporting arches, from which springs a large elliptical painted wood ceiling; a spiral stair, leading to an ornamental pulpit, winds around one of the columns in the nave. A large cornice around the internal perimeter of the building supports a columned wooden gallery, forming an elliptical arch over the wooden altar screen, which is heavily carved and is adorned with a variety of icons. All the furniture is original. The façade is decorated with romanesque-style windows, and porticos flank the main and side entrances. There is a separate campanile and contemporary administrative block, which houses the offices of the bishop.
Plan: CMP Survey
U35 Hammam al-Gabali Map sheet
20
Before AH 601 / AD 1205 This ancient bathhouse was apparently built by a governor of Cairo, Izz al-Din Ibrahim. The building has been substantially demolished.
U36 Sabil of Umm Husayn Bey ca. AH 1267 / AD 1851 This is the sabil of a wife of Muhammad ‘Ali called Map sheet Umm Husayn Bey. It was moved by the Comité from 27 its original emplacement further south on the Khalig al-Masri opposite the mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani alFakhri (no. 184), which was restored by the same patron in the 1840s. The sabil now stands on the western side of the mosque of Qadi Yayha (no. 182). It has an elaborate bow-fronted façade, overhung by painted wood eaves, with marble inscriptions and bronze grilles on the sabil windows. Although the sabil was registered in the last years of the Comité, it never received a number. Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 26 n. 1 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 333; BCCMAA 1946–53, 233, 240, 318
U37 Tomb of Fatma al-Nabawiya Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey
U38 Hammam Darb al-Ahmar Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This is a typical Ottoman bathhouse with a dogMap sheet legged entrance, a columned disrobing space, 14 and domed hot room with smaller ancillary chambers. It is still in use. The structure may be considerably older than the given date, as a bathhouse is known to have existed in this location since the early fourteenth century, under the name ‘Aydaghmish,’ which was also the name given to a postern gate (now lost) in the nearby Fatimid wall. Plan: Courtesy Dr. Atef Fahim References: Pauty 1933a, 57; Seton-Watson 2000, 57
U39 Wikala of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada AH 1088 / AD 1677 Raymond (2000) has demonstrated, by reference to 14 the surviving waqf, that this wikala dates to the same period as the sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha alHabashi (no. 230) to which it is adjacent. A fine stone portal leads to a vaulted passage and courtyard, both of which preserve their original stone flooring. All of the arches around the courtyard, however, have been walled up, perhaps for structural reasons. There is a separate entrance to the derelict but still inhabited living units at first-floor level from the street behind the building.
Map sheet
Plan: Courtesy Dr. Atef Fahim References: Pauty 1933a, 55
14
the present construction dates to the period of ‘Abbas I. The dome over the tomb is imposing in scale and is the only part of the complex left standing after demolition work in 2000 destroyed the large mosque to the south of the tomb and the minaret, prior to the construction of new facilities.
ca. AH 1267 / AD 1850 This tomb is the most important shrine in this quarter of Cairo, containing the remains of a female member of the Prophet’s family. It is likely that a tomb has stood on this site since Fatimid times, but
Plan: Courtesy M. Abu’l Amayem (portal only) References: Raymond 2000
U40 Zawiya of Arif Pasha AH 1284 / AD 1868 This is an unregistered but architecturally significant Map sheet monument at the intersection of the Darb al-Ahmar 14 and the Suq al-Silah. It has a stone façade with a portal, an Ottoman-style cornice, and high-level elliptical windows lighting the prayer space at first-floor level. A kuttab is located in adjacent rooms on the first floor. The base of the original minaret survives. Internally there is one inscription over the mihrab. The date of the complex is probably older than that given here, which is the date of a restoration by a minister of Khedive Isma‘il. The entire building is derelict and is in serious danger of collapse.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Hamamsy 1992, 62–63
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U41
U45
Zawiya of ‘Ali al-Maghrabi
Maq‘ad to the east of the Bab Zuwayla
1282 (?) / AD 1866 (?) This unregistered zawiya shares stylistic characterMap sheet istics with the almost adjacent zawiya of Arif Pasha 14 (U40). It consists of a simple prayer space with a stone mihrab, the roof of which is supported by a single marble column. This is flanked to the north and south by tomb chambers; the southern chamber contains the tomb of the individual after whom the mosque is named.
Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This maq‘ad is part of an Ottoman house that was built Map sheet immediately adjacent to the original staircase leading 21 up to the platform of the Bab Zuwayla. It faces a tiny courtyard to the north. The house is owned by the SCA, but it is in a state of severe structural dilapidation.
AH
Plan: CMP Survey
Plan: CMP Survey
U46 U42 Hammam al-Qirabiya
Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This bathhouse has two entrances: one opposite the Map sheet zawiya of ‘Ali Negm (no. 208) and the other from 21 the parallel alley to the south. This disrobing room and the main rooms of the bath are no longer connected, but the structure is still intact. The disrobing room has fine marble columns and a wooden lantern, and is occupied by a carpentry workshop. The rest of the bathhouse, with multiple domes, is a leather goods workshop, Plan: Courtesy Dr. Atef Fahim References: Pauty 1933a, 57
U43 House of Hanafi al-Bayda, no. 4, ‘Atfat Isma‘il Kashif Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This was a good example of an eighteenth-century Map sheet middle-class house, built around a small court21 yard with a qa‘a on the first floor. It was demolished in 1998. Plan: Hanna 1991, 117 References: Hanna 1991, 116–17
U44 Sabil-kuttab, no. 5, Shari‘ al-Magharbellin Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This Ottoman sabil-kuttab is an architectural Map sheet curiosity in that it has a nineteenth-century addi21 tion above the kuttab with a fine projecting wooden window. The kuttab has been blocked up, and all floors are now occupied by individual dwellings. Plan: CMP Survey
Islamic Museum AH 1321 / AD 1903 This building was constructed to house both the Map sheet 27 and 21 Khedival Library (now transferred to the Dar alKuttub) and the collection of Islamic antiquities that the Comité had amassed since the 1880s; the collection is housed in the lower half of the building. It was designed in the ‘Islamic style’ by the Italian architect (and member of the Comité) Alfonso Manescalo and has now been registered as a monument (without a number) in its own right. Attached to the museum is a garden that displays some of the more durable pieces of the collection. In 2000, a major project was initiated to renovate the building and move some of the collections to the Diwan of Schools in the Citadel (U83).
Plan: Courtesy Said al-Komi Consulting Engineers References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 277; Sakr 1992, 22–24; Reid 2002, 237–39 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 80–83, 127–28; BCCMAA 1902, 37–38, 61–62, 74–75, 124–125; BCCMAA 1903, 16, 25–26, 54–55; BCCMAA 1904, 24, 68; BCCMAA 1907, 65–66
U47 Mosque of Ragab Agha ca. AH 1267 / AD 1850 This mosque, elevated above shops, was originally Map sheet built during the Muhammad ‘Ali period to conform 28 to the geometry of the new thoroughfare of Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali. It was subsequently restored by Khedive Isma‘il. A simple trilobed portal opens onto a steep flight of stairs that leads to the prayer space. Wooden columns support the roof. A separate entrance leads to the ablutions area at ground level. Plan: CMP Survey
U48 House, no. 5, Shari‘ al-Qirabiya Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This house is a fine example of a late nineteenthMap sheet century apartment building with elaborate mashrabiya 21 windows set over a rusticated stone base with pilasters. Its inner court originally functioned as a stable. Plan: CMP Survey
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U49 Maq‘ad, no. 14, Shari‘ al-Ganibakiya Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This maq‘ad, now blocked-up, is part of an Ottoman Map sheet house that was probably constructed in the late eigh21 teenth century. The openings of the maq‘ad originally gave onto a courtyard, traces of which are still visible. Plan: CMP Survey
U50 Rab‘-wikala, no. 8, Darb al-Dalil Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD This building has an intact corbeled stone façade to Map sheet the street; its portal, decorated with stone strap14 work, leads into a much deteriorated courtyard space. This is bordered to the west by two surviving stone arches of the wikala, while on the street side there is an intact maq‘ad. The maq‘ad has two arches, supported by a central marble column of unique design: it is carved to resemble a stylized palm-tree and is surmounted by a composite capital with acanthus leaves, panthers, and birds. The stone floor and undecorated wooden coffered ceiling are in good condition, and there are high-level keel-arched niches that are stylistically similar to those seen in other seventeenth-century domestic structures. Beneath the maq‘ad are living units that also preserve their original decorated wooden ceilings. Plan: CMP Survey (first floor)
U51 The Citadel: Wall of the Northern Enclosure AH 579–1242 / AD 1183–1826 The majority of the walls, towers, and gates that Map sheet are shown on the accompanying map sheets (with 1, 2, 9 the exception of Towers G, H, J, K, L, and M) were originally built by Salah al-Din and subsequently reinforced by his brother al-Adil or his nephew al-Kamil. They include some masterpieces of defensive masonry construction. The walls were cleared of rubble by the Comité in 1923 and were later comprehensively documented by Creswell. Although there is no question that the walls surrounding both the northern and southern enclosures of the Citadel are registered antiquities, they appear to have never been separately indexed with their own registration numbers (with the exception of the Bab al-Mudarrag (no. 556 [map sheet 9]). The towers shown on these map sheets are, proceeding counterclockwise, as follows: Sheet 1: A: A small round-fronted tower built by Salah-al-Din and unmodified. B: Burg al-Ramla (‘the Sand Tower’): a small round-fronted tower built by Salah al-Din and extended by al-Adil or alKamil. C: Burg al-Haddad (‘the Blacksmith’s Tower’): a small roundfronted tower built by Salah al-Din and extended by al-Adil or al-Kamil.
D: A small round-fronted tower built by Salah-al-Din and unmodified. E: Burg al-Sahra (‘the Desert Tower’): a small round-fronted tower built by Salah-al-Din with an inner square structure built by al-Adil or al-Kamil together with a postern gate. This tower is shown on the map of the Description de l’Égypte (État Moderne I: pl. 26) as being much larger: perhaps it incorporated the curving vaulted structure that can still be seen immediately outside it (U71). The outer facing of the wall is late Mamluk. Sheets 1 and 2: F: A small round-fronted tower built by Salah-al-Din, but demolished by the Mamluk sultan Ganbalat in AD 1501 to make way for an artillery platform. Running south from this wall is a surviving section of the original Ayyubid enclosure wall; its continuation (shown dashed, after Creswell) was substantially demolished by Muhammad ‘Ali in the construction of the Harim Palace (no. 612). He replaced the Ayyubid wall with a new one set on an alignment further to the north, which included: Sheet 2: G: A large round-fronted tower constructed in AD 1827. The wall continues west to link with Tower H. Sheet 9: H: An Ottoman round-fronted tower. This small tower was built in the sixteenth century as part of a new curtain wall. I: Burg al-Ahmar (‘the Red Tower’). The remains of this square tower or keep, originally constructed by al-Kamil in AD 1207, were later incorporated into Muhammad ‘Ali’s Harim Palace (no. 612). A now-demolished companion to this tower, also square, further to the southwest, is shown on the map of the Description de l’Égypte (État Moderne I, pl. 26). J: An Ottoman round-fronted tower. This small tower was built in the sixteenth century as part of a new curtain wall. K: Burg al-Wustani. ‘The Middle Tower’ was constructed by the Ottomans in the sixteenth century and takes the form of a large, circular two-story tower, with its counterpart, the Burg al-Muqattam, to the east (see tower M). L: Bab al-Qulla. This gate (‘of the Water-pot’) was and is the link between the two enclosures of the Citadel. It was originally part of a curtain wall (AD 1260–77), constructed by Baybars al-Bunduqdari, but the current gate has a sixteenthcentury Ottoman base of two faceted towers, over which has been superimposed a structure dating to the period of Muhammad ‘Ali. Sheet 2: M: A large circular tower, named Burg al-Muqattam (after the hills to the east of the Citadel), constructed by the Ottomans in the sixteenth century. A secondary curtain wall extends from this tower to the south, wraps around the Bir Yusuf (no. 305) and joins the corner of the mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad (no. 143). N: Burg al-Suffa (‘the Alignment Tower’) constructed by alKamil in 1207, and so named because it includes a shift in its square plan to accommodate a change in alignment of the wall. This tower is shown on the map sheet in dotted line since it lies beneath a later structure of Muhammad ‘Ali.
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O: Burg al-Alwa (‘the View Tower’), an unmodified tower of Salah al-Din. P: Burg al-Kirkilyan (‘the Tower of the Forty Serpents’) constructed by al-Kamil on a square plan. Q: An unnamed tower of Salah al-Din. R: Burg al-Turfa (‘the Masterpiece Tower’), the largest of the towers constructed by al-Kamil on a square plan. The area inside the walls extending west from the Burg al-Turfa to the Burg al-Kirkilyan (P above) has been excavated and presents a mass of enigmatic structures dating from at least the Mamluk, if not the Ayyubid, period. S: Burg al-Matar (‘the Flight Tower’). This in fact comprises two round-fronted towers flanking the Bab al-Qarafa, a gate constructed by Salah al-Din but subsequently walledup by Sultan Ganbalat. Al-Kamil used the upper platform as the station for carrier-pigeons, hence the name. T: Burg al-Muballat (‘the Paved Tower’), constructed by Salah al-Din on a ninety-degree corner in the wall. On the return of the wall to Tower U is a small Ottoman tower built to block a postern gate. U: Burg al-Muqusar (‘the Pavilion Tower’), an original roundfronted tower of Salah al-Din. V: An unnamed round-fronted tower of Salah al-Din. W: Burg al-Imam, which comprises twin round-fronted towers built by Salah al-Din flanking a gate into the Citadel with a bent entrance. The gate’s towers were extended outwards by al-Kamil, but the entrance was subsequently walled-up by Sultan Ganbalat. The towers became the residence of the imam of the nearby mosque of Sulayman Pasha (no. 142) during the Ottoman period, which gave rise to their name. Plans: Creswell 1959, 1–40 passim; Towers A–E: Creswell 1959, inserts after 22 and 26; Tower G: SCA Archive; Tower L: SCA Archive; Tower I: Creswell 1959, fig. 13 after p. 30 and CMP Survey; Towers K and M (first floor): CMP Survey References: Creswell 1959, 1–40; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 362–69; Mackenzie 1992, 58–69; Lyster 1993, 86–88; Rabbat 1995, 50–89; Bierman 1998, 134 (Burg al-Imam); Sayyid 1998, 634–43 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1946–53, 244, 247, 248
U52 Tomb of Shaykh Ibrahim al-Giza Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD This is a simple tomb with a stone base and a plasMap sheet tered-brick dome, located under the walls of the 1 Citadel. It is oriented north-south, like the tombs of the southern cemetery, and has decorated stone trilobed squinches. The tomb (which appears on the map of the Description de l’Égypte [État Moderne I, pl. 26], the Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan, and the 1950 Map of Mohammedan Monuments) is now flanked by a modern zawiya to the north. Plan: CMP Survey
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U53 Tomb of Shaykh ‘Uthman al-Fathi Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD This simple tomb, named on the Survey of Egypt Map sheet 1:500 Cadastral Plan and the 1950 Map of 1 Mohammedan Monuments, is slightly smaller than its neighbor (U52), but shares the same northsouth orientation and construction: namely, a stone base, decorative stone squinches, and a plastered-brick dome. It also has a flat, decorated stone mihrab. Plan: CMP Survey
U54 The Citadel: Army Barracks ca. AH 1244 / AD 1828 This is one of the numerous buildings erected by Map sheet Muhammad ‘Ali to house his troops (the Nizam 1 and 2 al-Gedid, led by his son Ibrahim Pasha). They share the same characteristics of design, most of them being two-story structures with a stone ground floor and a rendered brick upper-floor with projecting balconies. Many of these structures have been demolished, but others remain and are either empty or used as offices by the SCA. Two buildings—single-story former army mess halls, located on the southern perimeter of the enclosure—have been converted into the Royal Carriage Museum and ‘the Museum of Stolen Things.’ Plan: Buckland Citadel Survey, 1913 References: Lyster 1993, 103
U55 Tomb of al-Marghani Map sheet
8
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This is a simple stone-domed tomb within a courtyard that is flanked to the east by the remains of the so-called tomb of Sandal al-Mangaki (no. 327), and a takiya, known also by the name al-Marghani.
Plan: CMP Survey Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 24 (classification of eastern gate of takiya)
U56 House, no. 45, Shari‘ al-Mahgar Map sheet
8
AH 1334 / AD 1915 This late nineteenth-century house was originally composed of four stories, with one apartment per floor; a fifth floor was later added. The façade has some fine wooden balconies and details.
Plan: Ground floor, Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 26 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 26
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U57 House, no. 2, ‘Atfat al-Zelahi Map sheet
8
ca. AH 1267 / AD 1850 This house, known as Bayt Sukkar, was originally composed of three stories. It has one apartment per floor, with a fine wooden balcony at first-floor level. The house was rehabilitated in 1999 by the EAP.
Plan: Ground floor, Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 28 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 28; ARCE/EAP 1999, 11–27
U58 Zawiya and tomb of Shaykh ‘Abdallah al-Baz Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD To the north of the Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri (no. Map sheet 249) and the east of the mosque of Khayrbak (no. 8 and 15 248) lay the khanqah and tomb of Shaykh ‘Abdallah al-Baz, possibly dating to the seventeenth century. All that remains of the complex is the zawiya attached to the side of the palace and the shaykh’s freestanding octagonal tomb, which was restored by the Comité between 1941 and 1945. The zawiya has a double groin-vault in stone and a mihrab that is radically skewed to achieve an improved qibla orientation. It is approached from a ruined vaulted space to the west, the entrance of which (now blocked) lies between the corners of the two adjacent monuments. The door is under a series of three remarkable relieving arches that support a passageway from the tomb of Khayrbak to the Palace of Alnaq. Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, 67, and CMP Survey References: Revault and Maury 1977, 62 n. 5 Conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 52, 151, 240
U59 House of ‘Umar Agha 1063 / AD 1652 ‘Umar Agha’s house is adjacent to his tomb and sabil Map sheet (no. 240); much of the upper story, which projects 15 over shop units at ground level, has been destroyed. The original entrance to the house is obscured by a modern shop façade. The house probably occupied the entire corner site at one time, as there is another contemporaneous entrance on the street to the west. AH
Plan: Hanna 1991, 97 References: Hanna 1991, 95–97 Conservation: BCCMAA 1941–45, 15 (façade repaired)
Plan: Hanna 1991, 85 References: Hanna 1991, 82–85; Jaubert 1995, 198
U61 Rab‘ al-Tabbana AH 921–22 / AD 1516 Although this building gives its name to this secMap sheet tion of the Darb al-Ahmar, and is an extremely 15 important and early example of the rab‘ typology in Cairo, it remains unregistered. Some units of the rab‘ are still intact, while others have been blocked up and still others demolished and rebuilt in concrete. Most of the building itself, which originally had fourteen bays with ground-floor and upper-floor apartments, and a stone vaulted passage leading to the rear, are still clearly visible.
Plan: Zakariya 1980, insert facing 278 References: Zakariya 1980; Hanna 1991, 61, 63; Garcin 1997, 73–79
U62 New mosque of Qawsun AH 1311/ AD 1893 This mosque was built by Khedive ‘Abbas II within Map sheet the old mosque of Qawsun (no. 202), respecting the 22 new alignment of Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali. There is a connection (disused) to the back door of the original mosque. The qibla wall of the mosque is also built on the older structure.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Hamamsy 1992, 55–56; see also Karim 2002 passim
U63 House, no. 52, Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali AH 1290 / AD 1873 This house originally had two stories above the arcade to the street; it is one of the few surviving 22 examples of the original architecture of Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali. The uppermost story has been demolished, but the first floor preserves a characteristic Ottoman arcaded wooden balcony.
Map sheet
Plan: Ground floor, Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 40 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 40
U64 House, no. 15, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
U60 House, no. 6, Shari‘ Hammam Bashtak Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This is a surviving example of a typical middle-class Map sheet Ottoman house. Intact and fully occupied, it is built 15 of stone with projecting corbels supporting an upper story.
Map sheet
15 and 22
AH 1334 / AD 1915 This building was originally designed as a fourstory apartment block. The top story was demolished after the 1992 earthquake. It has a stuccoed façade and balconies with wrought-iron railings.
Plan: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 32 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 32
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U65
U69
House, no. 18, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
Mosque of Mustafa Fadil Pasha
ca. AH 1334 / AD 1915 This apartment block currently has three stories, Map sheet plus a basement. This building is derelict, having 22 been damaged by the 1992 earthquake, after which most of its occupants left. It has a fine bowed projection on its stuccoed façade.
AH 1280 / AD 1863 Mustafa Fadil Pasha was the younger half-brother Map sheet of Khedive Isma‘il. Accused of treason, he was 29 exiled to Istanbul. His mother, Ulfat Qadin (the widow of Ibrahim Pasha), built the mosque for him in 1863. The mosque has an inscribed portal, which leads to a vestibule immediately in front of the portal of the original mosque of Bashtak (no. 205). There is an ablutions court to the south of the vestibule, beyond which lie the remains of ancillary structures. The mosque itself is a simple series of arched arcades supported on reused antique columns (some of which are granite). An inscribed doorway leads off the prayer hall to the south into a domed and columned tomb chamber of Mustafa Fadil and his mother (dated AH 1296 / AD 1878). One elaborate marble cenotaph survives; the other has disintegrated. The walls of the chamber are painted with geometric patterns, and the craftsmanship—of the metal grilles, carved marble, and mashrabiya screens—is of extremely high quality.
Plan: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 34 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 34
U66 House, no. 12, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken Map sheet
22
ca. AH 1334 / AD 1915 This apartment block was designed with four stories: the top story has now been demolished. It has a projecting bay, wrought-iron railings on all its balconies, and decorative plaster swags.
Plan: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 36 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 36
U67 House, no. 6, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken Map sheet
22
AH 1346 / AD 1927 This apartment block, with two units per floor, was originally designed with four stories: the top story has now been demolished. Noteworthy features include balconies with enclosed wooden screens.
Plan: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 38 References: Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 38
U68 Sabil of Ulfat Qadin AH 1280 / AD 1863 This is a typical Ottoman-style bow-fronted sabil, Map sheet built by the mother of Mustafa Fadil Pasha (see 29 U69), the brother of Khedive Isma‘il, on the site of the khanqah of Bashtak. The ornate floral bronze grilles appear to be intact but are boarded over. The marble cladding and inscriptions are generally in good condition, although marred by graffiti. The building is used as a storeroom and is permanently locked. The sabil was part of a structure (probably housing the kuttab) that extended around it. The building was registered in the dying days of the Comité but has no official number.
Plan: Inaccessible References: Pauty 1936, 26; Mantran 1972, 224–25; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 345; Hamamsy 1992, 182–84; al-Harithy 2000, 230 and n. 77 (for the khanqah of Bashtak) Listing: BCCMAA, 1933–35, 333; BCCMAA 1946–53, 318
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Plan: CMP Survey References: Mantran 1972, 224–25; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 345; Hamamsy 1992, 82–91 Conservation: BCCMAA 1946–53, 318
U70 Mosque of ‘Ali al-Tarrabi Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD Three sides of the stone perimeter wall of this Map sheet large enclosure mosque survive, together with a 1 simple stone mihrab (of unknown date), whose orientation is skewed by some 30 degrees to achieve the correct qibla alignment. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan
U71 Well, quarry, and ancillary structures AH 572–89 (?) / AD 1176–93 (?) At the foot of the Citadel in this area lie a number Map sheet of enigmatic remains that are here grouped under 1 a single reference number. First of these is a stone quarry, which lends its name (‘al-Mahgar’) to the entire adjacent area; it may have been one source of the stone used in the construction of the Citadel during the Ayyubid period. To the west of the quarry are the ruins of a substantial stone structure (named ‘Saba Salatin’ on the 1950 Map of Mohammedan Monuments) with stone barrel vaults (not surveyed). On the eastern edge of the quarry rises a vast elongated stone tower. The walls of this tower enclose, at their western end, a forty-five-meter-deep rock-cut shaft, which almost certainly was designed as a well for the use of the Citadel during the Ayyubid period, with a waterwheel at its top (named the ‘sakyeh sysaryeh’ on the Description de l’Égypte map [État Moderne I, pl. 26]). This would account for the height of the
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building, the top of which is on a level with the bottom of the Citadel walls. Behind the well-shaft at the higher level is a stone chamber with a pointed-arch vault, very similar to other Ayyubid military constructions. Immediately below the Burg alSahra (U51E) is a curving section of a brick barrel-vault on stone walls with some visible arrow slits, which may be part of a postern gate outside this tower (see U51T). This structure is also visible on the Description map. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1959, 26
U72 Bayt al-Gazia Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This house, known locally as Bayt al-Gazia, has preMap sheet served its first-floor maq‘ad and a qa‘a. The maq‘ad 15 retains a fine marble column (perhaps reused) decorated with a fleur de lis and inscribed with the name of an ‘Amir Mustafa’; the rest of the inscription is obscured. The qa‘a contains some fine examples of decorative mashrabiya. Access to the courtyard is from an arched stone gate. Much of the street elevation has vanished in a recent masonry collapse. Plan: CMP Survey
U73 House, no. 24, Harat Salim Pasha Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD The portal, modified entrance passage, and maq‘ad Map sheet of this Ottoman courtyard house survive; the 15 maq‘ad has been converted into living units and is inaccessible. Plan: CMP Survey
U74 Wikala of Mustafa Sinan AH 1040 / AD 1630 Two arched units of this once large wikala survive, Map sheet buried deep in the ground. It seems likely from their 15 orientation that they were part of a wikala that was constructed with the sabil Mustafa Sinan (no. 246). The wikala is classified together with the sabil in the 1927–29 Bulletin, but it is unclear when the listing was revised.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 248 (no. 20) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1927–27, 189 (classification)
U75 Wikala, no. 23, Suq al-Silah Eleventh century AH / Seventeenth century AD This wikala/rab‘, which occupies the block immediMap sheet ately to the south of the mosque of Ilgay al-Yusufi 15 (no. 131) on the Suq al-Silah, preserves its bent entrance and ground-floor shop units facing the
street. Three additional stories survived until the end of the nineteenth century; corbels remain, but the building’s vertical scale is evident only in photographs in the Comité archives. Plan: CMP Survey
U76 Wikala, no. 4, Suq al-Silah Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD Ten shop units of this Ottoman wikala, located Map sheet immediately to the north of the gate of Mangak 15 al-Yusufi (no. 247), survive at ground-floor level, with corbels above them. The upper floors have now disappeared, but the remaining evidence suggests that this was yet another fine wikala/rab‘ situated on the important artery of Suq al-Silah. Plan: CMP Survey
U77 Wikala of Qaytbay al-Surugiya Before AH 902 / AD 1496 Raymond and Wiet (1979) list this wikala under the Map sheet name used in the Description de l’Égypte: ‘wikalat 22 al-Farrain.’ All that survives today is the vaulted entrance passage, above which is a fragment of the original inscription band, naming al-Ashraf Qaytbay as the founder. Photographs commissioned by the Comité (and published in the 1893 Bulletin) show that the wikala had an unusual inscription band similar to that found on Qaytbay’s wikala at Bab al-Nasr (no. 9) mounted above corbel level. This was demounted and taken to the Islamic Museum prior to the destruction of much of the remainder of the building. Plan: CMP Survey (portal area only) References: Van Berchen 1894, I:500–504; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 242 (no. 9) and 269 (no. 90); Behrens-Abouseif 1998, 40 and n. 61 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 33–34, 86–87; BCCMAA 1894, 1
U78 Hammam al-Dud ca.
658–thirteenth century / AD 1259–nineteenth century A double bathhouse seems to have stood on this site Map sheet since 1259 when the amir Sayf al-Din al-Dud al22 Gashankiri made the initial foundation, although the present structure was undoubtedly remodeled during the Ottoman period. Indeed, the elaborately carved square-headed entrance that stands on Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali, is stylistically of the nineteenth century, a result, perhaps, of the need to create a new entrance on that boulevard once it had been cut through the fabric of the medieval city. AH
Plan: After Dr. A. Fahim References: Pauty 1933a, 58 (no. 31); Raymond 1969, 133; Raymond 1978, 349 (no. 8); Behrens-Abouseif 1998, 37 and n. 35; Sayyid 1998, 502
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U79
U82
Wikalat al-Khalawati
Archaeological Garden and Theater
Before AH 1110 / AD 1698 This wikala is named after the Khalawati Sufi order Map sheet that occupied the nearby mosque (no. [414], now 29 destroyed), although it predates that building. The sabil in the waqf of Kulsun (no. 311) seems to have been constructed at the same time as the wikala, traces of which can still be seen in the vaulted entrance adjacent to the sabil and the stone arches to storage units around the original courtyard at ground level.
ca. AH 1416 / AD 1995 This modern landscape extends over an area of the Map sheet Citadel that was densely inhabited from the time of 1 and 2 Salah al-Din to that of Muhammad ‘Ali. A fragment of what lies beneath can be seen between the Burg al-Kirkilyan and the Burg al-Turfa (U51P and U51R, respectively). An ancient basin is also preserved in a pit within the modern theater at its northern end. The archaeological garden also contains fragments of destroyed Cairene buildings, including the minaret of the mosque of Gaqmaq (see no. [317]).
Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 274 (no. 141)
Plan: SCA Archive
U80
U83
Tomb of Muhammad al-Ka‘aki
Diwan of Schools
Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD This small tomb near the mosque of Sulayman Map sheet Pasha (no. 142) is that of an imam of the mosque; 2 it is the last remnant of an Ottoman cemetery that occupied this site until Muhammad ‘Ali built his nearby palace (no. 612).
ca. AH 1246 / AD 1830 This vast two-story building was constructed by Map sheet Muhammad ‘Ali as an office for the bureaucrats 9 who supervised the new secular school system that he introduced into Egypt. The upper floor has a series of enormous windcatchers. The building is currently occupied by offices of the SCA, but a project is planned to convert it into a second wing of the Islamic Museum.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Lyster 1993, 80, 106; Rabbat 1995, 40
U81
Plan: SCA Archive (ground floor) References: Lyster 1993, 103
Wall of the southern enclosure and Bab al-Gabal Eighth–thirteenth century AH / Fourteenth–nineteenth century AD The Bab al-Gabal, which is today the principal Map sheet entrance to the Citadel, was originally constructed 2 and 3 in AD 1786 by an Ottoman governor of Cairo, Yakan Pasha, but the appearance of this entrance has been substantially altered over time. The same individual constructed the wall running ninety meters to the south, at which point the remains of an earlier (possibly Ayyubid) wall run due west (shown dotted, extending to map sheet 9) at an angle of 90 degrees to the enclosure wall. The remainder of the vast curtain wall that constitutes the southern enclosure of the Citadel (see maps sheets 3 and 10), usually referred to as the Hawsh, was built by al-Nasir Muhammad in AD 1335 to protect his residential palace. It has no towers, relying instead on its elevation to deter would-be assailants. Muhammad ‘Ali clad most of these walls in a glacis and added a parapet, but parts of the earlier wall can be detected in some locations protruding from the base. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Lyster 1993, 50, 86, 91
U84 Mamluk kitchens Eighth and thirteenth centuries AH / Fourteenth and nineteenth centuries AD To the south of the mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad Map sheet (no. 143) are the remains of the Mamluk kitchens 9 that once prepared vast quantities of food for the sultan’s court. The whole area was remodeled by Muhammad ‘Ali, but there survives an enclosed cross-vaulted corridor that once ran through the kitchens to Sultan al-Nasir’s private entrance to his mosque. Plan: SCA Archive References: Lyster 1993, 29, 98; Rabbat 1995, 271–74
U85 Bab al-Gedid 1242 / AD 1826 This gate, which resembles a tunnel made up of a Map sheet series of vaulted chambers flanked by guard rooms, 9 was constructed by Muhammad ‘Ali as the main entrance to the Citadel coming from the Darb alAhmar. This approach is not in use today. AH
Plan: SCA Archive and CMP Survey References: Lyster 1993, 61–62, 89
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U86 Bab al-Alam, Military Prison, and School of Artillery AH 1246–1300 / AD 1830–82 The Bab al-Alam (‘the Gate of the Flag’), by which Map sheet one approaches a large terrace overlooking the city, 9 was originally constructed by Muhammad ‘Ali, but modified in the neo-Gothic style by Khedive Isma‘il. The terrace was also built by Muhammad ‘Ali, on the remains of earlier structures (see U88), as a platform for artillery. Immediately inside the Bab al-Alam are the cells of the military prison established by Khedive Isma‘il. Muhammad ‘Ali also built a School of Artillery on the northern corner of the platform, which is today occupied by the Police Museum.
Plan: SCA Archive; Lyster 1993, 92, 95; CMP Survey References: Lyster 1993, 93 and 95
U87 Burg al-Siba‘ AH 659–76 / AD 1260–77 Located under a corner of the School of Artillery Map sheet (see U86) are the remains of the Burg al-Siba‘ (‘the 9 Tower of the Lions’), known also as Burg al-Zawiya. This was built by the Mamluk sultan al-Zahir Baybars, and heraldic lions (his characteristic device) can be seen on the uppermost part of the tower—the only section that is visible today. The remainder of the structure is buried in the fill of the artillery platform that Muhammad ‘Ali created here.
Plan: Lyster 1993, 92 References: Lyster 1993, 95; Rabbat 1995, 38, 123, 119, 141–43, 152, 190, 280, 287, 292
U88 Qa‘at al-Ashrafiya AH 692 / AD 1292 On the northern side of the artillery platform of Map sheet Muhammad ‘Ali (see U86), excavations in 1985 9 revealed the remains of a large Mamluk qa‘a with a fountain in its center. This has been identified by Rabbat (1995) on the basis of surviving epigraphy as the qa‘at al-Ashrafiya built by Sultan al-Ashraf Khalil, rather than the Qasr Ablaq (see no. 549) built by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad. Another partial excavation in the center of the platform also revealed further Mamluk structures in this area, tentatively identified by Rabbat as the back of al-Nasir Muhammad’s Iwan al-Kabir.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Lyster 1993, 93–94; Rabbat 1995, 36–38, 156–80, 189
U89 Burg al-Rafraf 689–714 / AD 1290–1314 This tower, the name of which means ‘canopy,’ was Map sheet constructed by Sultan al-Ashraf Khalil in AD 9 1290–93. It is so named because when it was originally built it provided the base for a domed pavilion. Al-Nasir Muhammad later added an enclosed staircase to the west of al-Ashraf’s tower in order to provide access to the lower enclosure of the Citadel. One interesting feature of the earlier construction is the pair of large stone corbels projecting from it at high level, the design of which resembles those on the façade that was added to the Double-Cross Hall (see U91). That the corbels on the earlier section of the Burg al-Rafraf and on the façade of the Double-Cross Hall are built on the same planimetric—though not vertical—alignment suggests that they were constructed at the same time, and that they date to between 1290 and 1314. AH
Plan: SCA Archive References: Meinecke 1992, II:75; Lyster 1993, 85, 94; Rabbat 1995, 24–26, 154–56
U90 House of Hasan Pasha Rashid ca. AH 1339 / AD 1920 This house was designed by Achille Patricolo, the Map sheet 15 and 16 head of the Comité’s Technical Section for many years, as part of a larger project to redesign the entire street in a traditional style after the road had been widened following the completion of the Rifa‘i mosque. The client, Hasan Pasha Rashid, was an army general. The house has a fine stone façade and mashrabiya in the neo-Islamic style. Plan: Volait 1987, 90 References: Volait 1987, 90–91; Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 30
U91 The Double-Cross Hall AH 689–714 (?) / AD 1290–1314 (?) In the lower enclosure of the Citadel, below the Map sheet mosque of Muhammad ‘Ali, are the remains of a 9 vast Mamluk-period structure of uncertain date. The oldest element of this complex is the enormous vaulted hall, which takes the form of a double-cross, from which a mysterious seventeen-meter-long tunnel leads north. Blocking the original openings in the vaults on the western side is a secondary tunnel-vaulted structure, which supports five gigantic corbels, of similar design to the pair on the original Burg al-Rafraf (U89). This would suggest that the hall itself can be dated to as early as AD 1290, and the second phase to between AD 1290 and 1314. Rabbat (1995) tentatively suggests that the corbels were part of a structure built by the amir Yalbugha al-Nasiri, named the Harraqa, or ‘Firing’ Pavilion.
Plan: SCA Archive and CMP Survey References: Creswell 1959, 263; Rabbat 1995, 26–28, 206
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U92
U95
The Arsenal
Industrial area in the lower enclosure
ca. AH 1236 / AD 1820 An ancient route runs through the lower enclosure Map sheet of the Citadel running from the Bab al-Azab (see no. 9 555, map sheet 16) to the upper enclosure, occasionally cut directly out of the bedrock. This was the site of the famous massacre of the Mamluks in AD 1811 by Muhammad ‘Ali. On each side of this route, Muhammad ‘Ali constructed a multitude of warehouses for his army. Many of these arcaded structures, which originally had wind scoops (malqaf) on their roofs rather than skylights, survive in a state of dereliction. There is little surviving evidence that this was in fact a major center for the industrial production of armaments including cannon and firearms, although the area is frequently given the name Topkhane, or ‘cannon foundries.’ Also located among these buildings are two tombs (see U93 and U94).
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD Directly below the Muhammad ‘Ali Mosque in the Map sheet lower enclosure of the Citadel is a curious industri9 al area, possibly for metal-working. Of significance, too, is a pair of blocked doorways (most probably dating to the period of al-Nasir Muhammad), which seem to lead into the substructure of the Ablaq Palace (see no. 549).
Plan: SCA Archive and CMP Survey References: Lyster 1993, 61, 91, and 94; Jaubert 1995, 208–9
U93 Inner Gate Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD It is possible that this gate, dating to the Map sheet Muhammad ‘Ali period, stands on the site of the 9 Mamluk Bab al-Silsila, or ‘Chain Gate.’ A small domed tomb (named the tomb of Sidi al-Azab on the Survey of Egypt plan) is tucked into the northern side of the gate, following the tradition of placing tombs within many of Cairo’s ancient gates. Plan: SCA Archive
U94 Qubbat al-Biraqdar Late eleventh century AH / Late seventeenth century AD This domed tomb is obviously a relic of the earlier Map sheet occupation of the lower enclosure of the Citadel: 9 the ornate stone muqarnas pendentives that support the dome are now at ground level. The design of these pendentives is of an archaic pattern, similar in execution to the dome of the mausoleum of Shaykh al-Tahawi (monument number 383 [AH 1098 / AD 1687]). The dome of alBiraqdar is also a curiosity since it has a stone inner shell but a plastered-brick outer covering. The tomb’s name is taken from the Survey of Egypt Cadastral Plan. Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 264–66, pl. 54 (for comparison with Shaykh al-Tahawi)
Plan: CMP Survey
U96 Corbeled façade Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This corbeled façade, which is reminiscent of a Map sheet wikala, would appear to predate Muhammad ‘Ali’s 9 general remodeling of the lower enclosure of the Citadel. It is datable stylistically to the late seventeenth or eighteenth century, when this area was still occupied by the ‘Azaban corps of Janissaries. Plan: CMP Survey (first floor)
U97 Well of the Hawsh AH 712 / AD 1312 Although this well is surrounded by a modern Map sheet superstructure, the 1896 Map of the Citadel by 9 Colonel Green shows it connected by a subterranean rock-cut tunnel to the cistern of al-Nasir Muhammad (no. 569) and the last pumping station of the aqueduct (no. 369). The route of this tunnel is shown dotted, extending to map sheet 10.
Plan: CMP Survey
U98 Madrasa of Sidi Shahin Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This building, now in use as a primary school, was Map sheet once a large madrasa with a symmetrical plan com9 prising three large transverse halls. The qibla wall is flanked by two domed tomb chambers, named on the Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan as belonging to Sidi Muhammad al-Arghul al-‘Izzi and Sidi Mohi al-Din al-Rifa‘i. This is at variance with the inscription above the entrance, which names Sidi Mohi al-Din al-‘Izzi as the founder of the madrasa, as well as with the modern attribution to Sidi Shahin. The tombs are the most interesting part of the complex: their ribbed plastered-brick domes are each supported by four internal marble columns. Plan: CMP Survey
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U99
U103
Tomb of Muhammad Agha
Mosque of Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This small tomb stands in the forecourt of the Dar Map sheet al-Mahfuzat (no. 605). Dedicated to Muhammad 9 Agha (presumably a court official), it has a stone dome, supported by piers at each corner.
AH 1286–1330 / AD 1869–1911 The construction of this mosque started in AD 1869 Map sheet on the initiative of Princess Khushyar, the mother 16 of Khedive Isma‘il, and to the design of Husayn Pasha Fahmy, an architect and the Minister of Endowments. It was completed by Max Herz, chief architect of the Comité, in 1911. The style of the mosque can best be described as hybrid neo-Mamluk. In addition to the tombs of Shaykh ‘Ali Abu Shibbak al-Rifa‘i (for whom the monument was ostensibly built) and Shaykh ‘Abdallah al-Ansari, the building contains many royal tombs of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The mosque was registered as a monument in 1984 but has no number.
Plan: CMP Survey
U100 Palace of Muhammad ‘Ali AH 1234 / AD 1827 This two-story palace, now ruined on its eastern Map sheet side, is built beside and above the wall of the 2 southern enclosure in the same style as the neighboring Harim Palace (no. 612). Its precise function remains unclear.
Plan: Buckland Citadel Survey, 1913
U101 Burg al-Zawiya Eighth century (?) AH / Fourteenth century (?) AD The large-scale masonry of this tower identifies it as Map sheet a relic of an earlier age, sitting amid the warehous9 es constructed by Muhammad ‘Ali in the lower enclosure of the Citadel (see U92). The tower is located on the corner of the lower enclosure, facing the top of the Darb al-Ahmar: a strategically significant position. Although parts of the interior have been blocked up with later stonework, the remains of a large cross-vaulted chamber are still visible. Outside the later curtain wall of Muhammad ‘Ali stand the remnants of an enormous masonry wall, which may have corresponded to the outermost limits of the original tower. A tentative date of the Bahri Mamluk period for this construction is suggested here, although the tower may even be an Ayyubid foundation. Plan: CMP Survey
U104 Tomb of Mustafa Kamil AH 1376 / AD 1956 Mustafa Kamil (AD 1874–1908) was an early leader Map sheet of the Nationalist movement in Egypt under ‘Abbas 16 II Hilmi, and the lawyer for the defense in the infamous Dinshawy incident. The rooms around the tomb chamber house a small museum dedicated to his life and work. The whole building was designed in a neo-Mamluk style by the architect Ahmad Sharmi in the 1950s, and the body of Kamil was transferred here from his previous place of burial in the southern cemetery. Access to the tomb was impossible at time of writing because of refurbishment works.
Plan: None References: Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 97–98, 361
U105 U102 Ottoman sabil-kuttab
Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD The walls of this apparently undocumented sabil are Map sheet still standing, including the framing of the kuttab at 9 first-floor level. The façade has stone decoration of high quality. Plan: CMP Survey
Plan: Herz n.d., facing page 9 References: Herz n.d., passim; Hamamsy 1992, 129–39; al-Asad 1993; alAmroussi 1994, 107–21; Rabbat 1997, 377–81; Reid 2002, 241–42 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1913, 74; BCCMAA 1915–19, 450; BCCMAA 1936–40, 61; BCCMAA 1946–53, 56
Takiyat Mevleviya AH 1225 / AD 1810 The foundation of this takiya for the Mevlevi order Map sheet of dervishes (followers of Jalal al-Din Rumi based in 23 Konya) dates from AD 1810. The Samakhana, or ‘Listening Hall,’ was constructed over the sahn of the madrasa attached to the tomb of Hasan Sadaqa (see no. 263); the paintings that decorate the dome date from 1857. This circular space, with a wooden floor and gallery, is where the Sufis performed the whirling dance that is characteristic of the order. The remainder of the complex comprises living units for the members of the order, arranged in two stories around two garden courtyards, one wing of which is built over the adjacent Yashbak Palace (no. 266).
Plan: Courtesy Dr. Guiseppe Fanfoni (main floor plan for samakhana, first floor for takiya)
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References: Creswell 1919, 92–93; Creswell 1959, 267–69; Fanfoni and Burri 1980; Fanfoni 1988; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 333; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 207, 211 Listing and conservation: BCCMA 1915–19, 80–82; Fanfoni and Burri 1980; Fanfoni 1995
Map sheet
U110
Hammam of Shaykhu
Tomb and zawiya of Sidi Galal al-Assiuti
756 / AD 1355 This double bathhouse was a part of the Shaykhu khanqah complex (no. 152). Part of the bathhouse still exists, although it is severely dilapidated and occupied by small workshops.
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933a, 60 (no. 38); Raymond 1969, 137 (nos. 60 and 61); Meinecke 1992, II:224
U107 Sabil of Umm ‘Abbas AH 1284 / AD 1867 This building was constructed by the Dowager Map sheet Princess Bambah Qadin, the widow of Tusun and 23 the mother of ‘Abbas I, as a memorial. It is an elaborate construction, with high-quality marble and bronze work. Two large flanking blocks contain the school that is associated with the sabil, and a carved marble inscription band, with gilt on red or blue backgrounds, wraps around the whole complex. The sabil, which is octagonal in plan, is designed on Turkish precedents, with deep overhanging eaves.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Pauty 1936, 26–27; Mantran 1972, 226–27; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 359–60; Hamamsy 1992, 196–202; Jaubert 1995, 208 Conservation: BCCMAA 1933–35, 334; BCCMAA 1946–53, 318
U108 Sabil of Ibrahim Bey al-Wali (?) Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD The remains of this Ottoman sabil include a fine Map sheet bronze grille and chamfered corner with decorative 23 geometric carving above it. Plan: CMP Survey References: Raymond 1979a, 290 (no. 80)
U109 Kitchens of Muhammad ‘Ali AH 1229 / AD 1814 This now-derelict complex of buildings stands in Map sheet the extreme eastern corner of the gardens of the 3 Gawhara Palace/Hall of Justice built by Muhammad ‘Ali (no. 505). The complex is divided into two parts: a series of shallow domed spaces grouped around a courtyard, and a larger domed structure that appears to have functioned
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Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan and CMP Survey
U106 AH
23 and 24
as an enormous oven. The presence of water tanks and the evidence of layers of ash suggest that this complex may have functioned as a kitchen to feed the vast retinue that was employed in the palace.
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AH 1211 / AD 1796 This small tomb, with a ribbed plastered-brick Map sheet dome, stands between its more august neighbors: 3 the mausoleum of al-Sultaniya (no. 289) and the mausoleum of Qawsun (no. 291). If nothing else it demonstrates a stylistic continuity with tombs many centuries older. A small trilobed portal, with some decorative strapwork around it, gives access to the interior: a simple arcaded structure that has been modernized. The dome is supported on simple trilobed squinches.
Plan: CMP Survey
U111 Minaret of the mosque of Muhammad al-Burdayni Tenth century AH / Sixteenth century AD What can be seen of this minaret protrudes from a Map sheet recently rebuilt mosque and comprises an octago10 nal first tier with keel-arched openings within it and a muqarnas cornice, a circular second tier also with muqarnas, and a bulb that has been placed directly over the second tier with no supporting columns (clearly a rebuilding). The form of the minaret resembles that of the nearby minaret of the mosque of Badr al-Din al-Wana’i‘ (monument no. 163) which is dated to the late fifteenth century (see Behrens-Abouseif 1987). A date of the early sixteenth century is tentatively proposed here for this hitherto unremarked minaret. A plaque on the mosque names it as that of Muhammad al-Burdayni; the 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments gives it as the mosque of ‘Ali al-Burdayni. Plan: Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan References: Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 146, 148
U112 Wikala of Hasan Katkhuda AH 1113 / AD 1701 The dating and name of this wikala is assumed Map sheet from the adjacent sabil-kuttab (no. 405) to which 17 it is structurally attached. The door on the street, bordered with stone strapwork, gives onto a long passage that leads into the courtyard, which has been substantially overbuilt. Nevertheless, the remains of an imposing, multistory wikala are evident.
Plan: CMP Survey
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U113
U117
Hammam of Kushqadam
Hammam al-Khalifa
Eighth century AH / Fourteenth century AD The principal domed calidarium of this bathhouse, Map sheet complete with its lateral iwans, survives intact 17 despite the pressure of several families living within its confines. Slightly to the east, and with no connection now to the calidarium, is the original bent entrance to the bathhouse and the disrobing room. The door can be identified by its square-headed muqarnas decoration in stone. The hammam has its name by virtue of its physical proximity to the mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi (no. 153), rather than any documented connection.
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD Although the roofs of this bathhouse (known also as Map sheet the hammam al-Sitt or hammam Sukayna) have now 17 collapsed, the structure of the walls to the inner calidarium is still apparent. This is approached through a high disrobing room with a central skylight. The building likely dates much earlier than the nineteenth century, as bathhouses were commonly rebuilt over time on the same site. BehrensAbouseif (1983) has suggested that it may be part of Shagarat al-Durr’s foundation in this area (see no. 169).
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933a, 61 (no. 40 under name Hammam Darb al-Hosr); Raymond 1969, 135 (no. 33) Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1906, 57 (item 2)
U114 Mosque of Kalamtay al-Gamali AH 1233 / AD 1818 This simple mosque in the Ottoman style has two 17 arcades supported by reused columns and capitals; one kurdi survives to the left of the mihrab. The date is derived from a wooden inscription band that runs above the mihrab.
Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey
U115 Tomb of Ibrahim al-Fawwar Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This small tomb (known under a variety of names, of Map sheet which that given above is most common), probably 17 dates to the Muhammad ‘Ali period. It has a rendered-brick dome, and is flanked to the east and the west by substantial Ottoman façades, which are shown in outline here. Plan: CMP Survey
U116 Mosque of Sayyida Sukayna AH 1322 / AD 1904 It is not known when the first mosque was built on Map sheet this site to commemorate Amina, the daughter of 17 and 24 al-Husayn, who was nicknamed ‘Sukayna.’ ‘Abd alRahman Katkhuda built a mosque here in AD 1760 (as he did for Sayyida ‘Ayesha, see no. [378]). This was replaced in 1904 by the present mosque, constructed in a fine neoMamluk style by ‘Abbas II Hilmi.
Plan: Al-Amroussi 1994 (insert) References: Sameh 1946, 80–81; Raymond 1972, 244 (no. 15); al-Amroussi 1994, 83–88 Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1887–88, 41; BCCMAA 1915–19, 334
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933a, 61 (no. 42); Raymond 1969, 138 (no. 66); Behrens-Abouseif 1983, 7
U118 Mosque of Shagarat al-Durr AH 1335 / AD 1916 The tomb of Shagarat al-Durr (no. 169) was adjoined Map sheet in the nineteenth century by a small mosque. In the 17 1910s, this building was demolished by the Comité, which then proceeded to build another mosque on the site at some distance from the tomb. The style chosen for the construction was neo-Mamluk, and the whole exercise provides an interesting example of the Comité’s approach to historic architecture. The project obviously ran out of money, to judge from the unfinished state of the structure.
Plan: SCA Archive References: Behrens-Abouseif 1983; Hamamsy 1992, 58–59 Listing and conservation: see references for no. 169
U119 Sabil of Qaytbay AH 880 / AD 1475 Located in the western section of the ziyada of the Map sheet mosque of Ibn Tulun (no. 220), this sabil is built into 24 the ziyada wall facing the street beyond. The street façade projects beyond the line of the ziyada wall, and has engaged corner columns, strapwork panels, and two blank cartouches. Another grille serves the ziyada itself. Of the kuttab there is no trace, and the ceiling of the sabil is modern.
Plan: Creswell 1940, 350 References: Creswell 1940, 337; Meinecke 1992, II:425
U120 Wikala, No. 53 Shari‘ Tulun Twelfth century AH / Eighteenth century AD This wikala has survived complete with its upper Map sheet stories, although other structures have been built 24 within its courtyard. It is stylistically datable to the eighteenth century. Plan: CMP Survey
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U121 Hammam, No. 83 Shari‘ Tulun Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD Only the square-headed muqarnas portal of this Map sheet bathhouse survives. The remainder of the interior 24 was demolished from 2000–2004.
seems to have been remodeled during the latter part of the nineteenth century. The name of the house supposedly derives from Sakna, a belly dancer who attracted the attention of Khedive Isma‘il, from whom she subsequently received the house as a gift. Plan: CMP Survey
U126
Plan: CMP Survey References: Pauty 1933a, 61 (no. 41)
Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park
U122 Tomb of Sidi al-Arbain Thirteenth century (?) AH / Nineteenth century (?) AD This tomb, which has a plastered-brick dome, Map sheet stands on the slope leading to the hill of Qal’at al31 Kabsh. Although architecturally undistinguished, it is included here because of it its prominent position and relatively large size. The rather generic name of the tomb, given above, is taken from the Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan. Plan: CMP Survey
AH 1410 / AD 1989 The Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park is a group of Map sheet buildings and ancillary structures set around and 31 within a garden. The garden and buildings within it are intended for the use of children (including theaters, play spaces, and study areas); the structures on the western edge of the site are meant for the use of the local community as workshops and gathering places. The park, designed in the 1980s by Dr. Abdel Halim L. Abdel Halim, was completed in 1989 and given the Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 1991.
Plan: Courtesy, Dr. Abdel Halim L. Abdel Halim References: Asfour 1990, 72–77; Abdel Halim 1986, 68–74; Serageldin 1989, 236–37
U123 Mosque of Muhammad al-Buktumri
U127 Citadel retaining wall
Map sheet 3 and 10
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD The façade of this small nineteenth-century Map sheet mosque has been reclad in stone, but preserves the 24 form of its original trilobed portal. The plan is unusual in the way in which qibla orientation has been reconciled with the orientation of the street; a small tomb is located at the rear of the mosque.
Eighth century (?) AH / Fourteenth century (?) AD Slightly to the south of the main wall of the southern enclosure of the Citadel (U81) stands this massive remnant of an earlier retaining wall. The style and size of the masonry would suggest that it may date to the early fourteenth century, when Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad was active in constructing the base of what is today the southern enclosure.
Plan: CMP Survey
Plan: CMP Survey
U124
U128
Wikala of Hasan Katkhuda al-Bagdali
Mosque of Muhammad Kishr
Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD The stone structure of this once substantial wikala, Map sheet although severely degraded, can still be discerned 24 at ground level and in places on the first floor. The building is partially occupied by workshops.
Twelfth century (?) AH / Eighteenth century (?) AD This Ottoman mosque has a corbeled façade with a 17 trilobed doorway that is surrounded by decorative strapwork. Although much of the façade and the interior has been modernized, the original three-arcade structure of the prayer-hall is still visible.
Plan: CMP Survey
Map sheet
Plan: CMP Survey
U125
U129
House of Sakna Basha Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This large two-story courtyard house, which is subMap sheet stantially intact, appears to date to the Muhammad 24 ‘Ali period. A heavily overpainted marble plaque survives on the south side of the courtyard, with a tugra and a now-illegible foundation inscription. Sections of the original painted plaster ceilings survive, as does decorative stonework around some of the doorways. Part of the structure
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Wikala, no. 11, Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah Eleventh century (?) AH / Seventeenth century (?) AD The remains of a large wikala of uncertain date, Map sheet arranged around two courtyards, can still be seen 18 on the ground (and partly at first-floor level) at this site. The building is currently in use as a pickle factory, and is known locally as wikalat al-Ubbur. Plan: CMP Survey
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U130
U134
Zawiya of ‘Abd al-Karim
Mansur Palace
Before AH 1215 / AD 1800 This small zawiya and tomb is accessed from a Map sheet square-headed portal with muqarnas decoration 18 that has been heavily overpainted, along with the entire street façade. The tomb has a plastered-brick dome. Access for survey purposes was denied.
Map sheet
27
AH 1311 / AD 1893 This vast private palace, built in the neoclassical style, dominates the Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id in this location. It was requisitioned as a courthouse and continues to serve this function today.
Plan: None
Plan: None References: Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 33
U131 Mosque of Anbar al-Nur Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This small mosque and tomb would appear to date Map sheet from the Muhammad ‘Ali period. The building is of 13 stone, although now heavily overpainted, and has simple arched moldings and bull’s-eye windows over the main windows. The domed tomb chamber stands at the northern end of the site.
U135 Mosque of ‘Abbas II Hilmi AH 1322 / AD 1904 This mosque (which lacks a minaret) was conMap sheet structed in the neo-Mamluk style during the period 21 of ‘Abbas II Hilmi. The stone façade is elaborated with recessed window bays, crenellations, and a trilobed portal with muqarnas decoration. An inscription gives the foundation’s date. The interior has an intact marble mihrab and a wooden ceiling supported by cast-iron columns.
Plan: CMP Survey
Plan: CMP Survey
U136
U132 Church of St. Mark Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD This church, though now derelict, preserves much Map sheet of its architecture and internal decoration intact. It 13 is the last surviving ‘Rumi’ building in the area known as the Harat al-Rum. The church takes the form of a simple aisled structure with a portico. An internal gallery runs along the north, south, and west ends of the space. Plan: CMP Survey
Palace, no. 4, Shari‘ Ibrahim Bey ca. AH 1318 / AD 1900 This large two-story palace occupies most of this Map sheet 21 and 28 urban block and is bounded on its eastern side by a nineteenth-century zawiya. It is built for the most part in a classical renaissance style, with the exception of the main portal, which has some rather baroque sweeps either side of it. This leads to a courtyard, off of which is located a staircase. The palace is partially occupied but is generally derelict. Plan: None
U133 Muhammad ‘Ali-period palace Before AH 1267 / AD 1850 The remains of this large palace, complete with Map sheet malqaf, are best appreciated from the south side of 27 the flyover above Shari‘ al-Azhar. The style of the building is Turkish Baroque, and a very large reception room survives at first-floor level. The building is unfortunately inaccessible. Plan: None
D E S C R I P T I V E
C A T A L O G U E
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Glossary
ablaq
decorative masonry technique of alternating stones of contrasting colors
agha
chief of the Janissary militia
amir
commander
‘atfa
alley or lane
awqaf
(from waqf: ‘endowment’); Ministry of Endowments, charged with the maintenance of endowed properties
gukandar
polo master to the sultan
hammam
public bathhouse
hara
cul-de-sac or dead-end alley; applied by extension to describe an independent residential neighborhood
harim
women of the household; by extension, the space they inhabited
hawd
watering trough or basin for animals
azab
Ottoman militia
hawsh
walled enclosure or courtyard
bab
gate or portal
hilal
badistan
covered market for luxury goods
ornamental wooden or metal finial on top of a minaret or dome (usually in the form of a crescent)
bayt
house
iwan
portico, or large vaulted hall, in mosque or madrasa
bimaristan
hospital
katkhuda
officer of the Janissary corps
bunduqdar
lit.: ‘bow-carrier’; indicated in heraldry by a double-bow motif
khalif
spiritual leader of Islam succeeding the Prophet Muhammad
burg
defensive tower
khan
entrepôt for merchandise; caravanserai
calidarium
hot room in a bathhouse (hammam)
khanqah
dar
house, palace
Sufi communal dwelling, with place of prayer attached
darb
street; distinguished from ‘atfa (‘alley’) and hara (‘cul-de-sac’)
khitat
lit.: ‘districts’; used to describe a genre of descriptive topographic literature
dawadar
secretary to the sultan
kufic
angular calligraphic script
dikka
raised platform in a mosque for recitation or leading prayers
kurdi
carved and decorated timber frame to an iwan or similar architectural opening
durqa‘a
sunken area in a reception room (qa‘a)
kursi
funduq
multistory structure, built around a central courtyard, with shops on bottom level and accommodations for itinerant merchants on upper levels
wooden book stand in a mosque for readers of the Qur’an
kuttab
elementary school, often attached to a sabil or mosque
mabkhara
lit.: ‘incense burner’; minaret finial
madrasa
lit.: ‘school’; foundation built as establishment for theological teaching, often associated with a mosque
gamaqdar
valet to the sultan
gami‘
a large ‘congregational’ mosque, technically used for Friday prayers
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mamluk
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wind-catcher, constructed on top of building and oriented toward the prevailing (in Egypt: northern) winds lit.: ‘possessed’; slaves who were instructed in religion and warfare before their manumission and who then served the amirs or the sultan, or became amirs or sultans themselves
manzil
house or dwelling
maq‘ad
open loggia, often facing into a courtyard, in residences
maqsura
protective barrier surrounding a tomb or mihrab within a mosque
mashhad
commemorative foundation for a saint or venerated figure (sometimes, but not necessarily, buried within)
mashrabiya
screens formed of sections of turned wood; by extension: windows made from these screens
midan
public square
mihmandar
chief of protocol
mihrab
niche or indicator in the qibla wall of a mosque, showing the direction of Mecca
minbar
pulpit in a mosque made of stone or wood
muhtasib
supervisor of public markets
muqarnas
architectural ornament consisting of a succession of tiered niches, often likened to stalactites
rafraf
projecting wooden eaves
ribat
hospice for the poor
riwaq
arcade bordering the sahn of a mosque
sabat
wooden roofing over a street
sabil
public water dispensary, erected as a charitable foundation
sabil-kuttab lit.: ‘fountain-school’; a public water dispensary (sabil) connected with a Qur’anic school (kuttab) sahn
central courtyard, generally of a mosque
salsabil
interior wall-fountain, generally an inclined marble slab in a niche
samakhana
listening hall, used for Sufi dance rituals
shukhshaykha wooden lantern, usually over an enclosed sahn or durqa‘a sikka
small road
silahdar
lit.: ‘sword-bearer’; by extension, commander of the armies
suq
market
tabut
cenotaph
takiya
residential complex for Sufis, built around a courtyard
Tanzim
Ministry of Public Works
tugra
calligraphic device of Ottoman sultans
naskhi
cursive calligraphic script
turba
tomb or mausoleum
qa‘a
reception room, usually in a house or palace
ustadar
chief steward or majordomo in the sultan’s service
qasaba
lit.: ‘artery’; used to describe the main northsouth thoroughfare bisecting the area of Fatimid Cairo
waqf
endowment (pl: awqaf, by extension: the Ministry of Endowments)
wazir
vizier
qasr
palace or large mansion
wikala
qaysariya
an entrepôt for luxury goods
qibla
the direction of prayer, oriented toward the Kaaba in Mecca
hostel for merchants, with storage units on the ground floor and residential accommodation on the upper floors
zawiya
a small prayer-space
qantara
bridge
ziyada
qubba
domed tomb or mausoleum
lit.: ‘additional space’; enclosed area built around a mosque to separate it from the city
rab‘
residential apartment block, often with shops on the ground floor, founded as an investment for a waqf
G L O S S A R Y
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Abbreviations
AARP: ADAIK:
Art and Archaeology Research Papers Abhandlungen des Deutschen Archäologischen Instituts, Abteilung Kairo ARCE: American Research Center in Egypt BCCMAA: Bulletin du Comité de Conservation des Monuments de l’Art Arabe BÉO: Bulletin des Études Orientales BIÉ: Bulletin de l’Institut d’Égypte BIFAO: Bulletin de l’Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale CEDEJ: Centre d’Études et de Documentation Économiques, Juridiques et Sociales CMP: Cairo Mapping Project CNRS: Centre Nationale de Recherche Scientifique (Paris) DAIK: Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Abteilung Kairo EAP: Egyptian Antiquities Project of the American Research Center in Egypt ICOMOS: International Council on Monuments and Sites IFAO: Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale du Caire JAOS: Journal of the American Oriental Society JARCE: Journal of the American Research Center in Egypt
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JBAA: JESHO: JFAUC: MDAIK: MIÉ: MIFAO: MMAF: NARCE: RÉI: SCA: UNESCO: UNDP: USAID:
Journal of the British Archaeological Association Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient Journal of the Faculty of Archaeology of the University of Cairo Mitteilungen des Deutschen Archäologischen Instituts, Abteilung Kairo Memoires de l’Institut d’Égypte Mémoires publiés par les membres de l’Institut français d’archéologie orientale Mémoires publiés par les membres de la Mission archéologique française du Caire Newsletter of the American Research Center in Egypt Revue des Études Islamiques Supreme Council of Antiquities United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization United Nations Development Programme United States Agency for International Development
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Index of Buildings by Number Page
No.
Name of Monument
Date
3
Mausoleum and minaret of Abu’l Ghadanfar
AH
552 and 867 /
6
Bab al-Futuh
AH
480 /
AD
1087
27, 28, 32, 34, 35, 72, 87
7
Bab al-Nasr
AH
480 /
AD
1087
27, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 56, 72, 88
9
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH
885 /
AD
1480
88
10
Mausoleum of Ahmad al-Qasid
ca.
AH
11
Wikala of Qawsun
before
(13)
House in the waqf of al-Hatu
twelfth century (?)
14
Sabil-kuttab of the amir Muhammad
AH
1014 /
15
Mosque of al-Hakim
AH
380–403 /
16
Sabil-kuttab of Qitas Bey
AH
1040 /
AD
1630
89
17
Sabil-kuttab of Udah Basha
AH
1084 /
AD
1673
90
18
Mosque of al-Bakri
before
19
Wikala of Dhulfiqar (Udah Basha)
AH
1084 /
20
Palace al-Musafirkhana
AH
1193–1203 /
21
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
AH
1157 /
22
Mosque of Aydumur al-Bahlawan
before
23
Sabil-kuttab of al-Sayyid ‘Ali ibn Hayz‘
AH
1056 /
24
Mosque of Almalik al-Gukandar
AH
719 /
AD
1319
91
25
Mosque of Bardbak
AH
865 /
AD
1460
91
26
Mosque of Mughaltay al-Gamali
AH
730 /
AD
1329
91–92
27
Sabil of al-Bazdar
AH
1050–51 /
AD
1640–41
28
Gateway and minaret of the mosque of al-Husayn
AH
549–634 /
AD
1154–1237
29
Mosque of Marzuq al-Ahmadi
AH
1043 /
AD
1633
92
30
Mosque of Mahmud Muharram
AH
1207 /
AD
1792
93
202
735 / AH
AH
AH
AD
742 /
AD
1157 and 1462
AD
88
1341 AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
990–1013
AD
AD
AD
1374
AD
AD
AD
89
32, 34, 72, 89
90 35, 90
1779–88
1744
747 /
76, 88
89
1673
AD
87
1335
1605
776 /
AD
AD
90 44, 90–91
1346
1646
91 91
64, 66, 92 64, 92
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No.
Name of Monument
Date
31
Mausoleum of Qarasunqur
AH
700 /
32
Khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir
AH
706–9 /
33
Mosque of al-Aqmar
AH
519 /
34
Palace of Bashtak
AH
736–40 /
35
Madrasa of Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar
AH
811 /
36
Mausoleum and mosque of Tatar al-Hegaziya
AH
749 and 761 /
37
Remains of the madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars
AH
660 /
AD
1262
28, 32, 95
38
Mausoleum and madrasa of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub
AH
641 /
AD
1243
64, 95
(39)
Mihrab of the mosque of Badr al-Din al-‘Agami AH
758 /
AD
1357
95–96
and two epigraphic plaques
Page
1300–1
AD
AD
1306–10
37, 93
1125
AD
AD
93
AD
52, 93–94
1335–39
94
1408
94 AD
1348 and 1360
94–95
40
Mosque and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh ‘Ali al-Mutahhar
AH
1157 /
41
Tomb of Shaykh Sinan
AH
994 /
42
Mosque of Taghribardi
tenth century
43
Complex of Qalawun
AH
683 /
44
Complex of al-Nasir Muhammad
AH
694–96 /
45
Mosque of Mithqal
AH
763 /
46
Façade of the mosque of ‘Abd al-Latif al-Qarafi
tenth century
(47)
Bab Qadi ‘Askar
AH
48
Mosque of Muhib al-Din Abu’l Tayyib
before
49
Mosque of Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir
AH
884 /
AD
1479
98
50
Qa‘a of Muhib al-Din al-Muwaqqi
AH
751 /
AD
1350
98
51
Maq‘ad of Mamay al-Sa‘ifi
AH
901 /
AD
1496
98
52
Sabil-kuttab of Khusraw Pasha
AH
942 /
AD
1535
98
53
Bab al-Badistan al-Ghuri
AH
917 /
AD
1511
99
54
Façade of the wikala of al-Ghuri (al-Qutn)
AH
917 /
AD
1511
99
56
Bab al-Ghuri
AH
917 /
AD
1511
99
57
Sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad AH
1068 /
(al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi)
735 /
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AH
1744
1585 AH
AD
/ sixteenth century
96
AD
28, 34, 36, 96–97
1294–96
97
1361 AH
97 / sixteenth century
97
AD
1334
AD
Façade of the zawiya of Fatima Umm Khawand
ninth century
59
Mausoleum of al-Sha‘rani
ca.
AH
60
Mosque of Qadi ‘Abd al-Basit
AH
823 /
61
Ribat of the wife of Sultan Inal
ca.
AH
62
Hawd and sabil of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab
AH
1188 /
975 /
97
AD
1527–28
98
1657
58
AH
AD
64, 66, 99
/ fifteenth century
99
AD
1567
99–100
1420
860 / AD
I N D E X
96
1284
934 /
AD
96
AD
100
1456
100
1774
O F
100
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
203
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Page 204
No.
Name of Monument
Date
63
Qa‘a and maq‘ad in the waqf al-Sha‘rani
AH
1138 /
64
Wikalat al-Ghuri
AH
909–10 /
AD
1504–5
100–1
65
House in the waqf of Sa‘id Pasha
AH
909–10 /
AD
1504–5
101
66
Maq‘ad of al-Ghuri
AH
909–10 /
AD
1504–5
101
67
Mausoleum and sabil-kuttab of al-Ghuri
AH
909–10 /
AD
1504–5
101
68
Tomb of Muhammad al-Anwar
AH
1195 /
69
Sabil-kuttab of Zayn al-Abidin
eleventh century
70
Sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Bey al-Kharbutli
AH
1047 /
AD
1637
102
71
Sabil-kuttab of Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui
AH
1042 /
AD
1632
102
72
House of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi
AH
1044 /
AD
1634
102
73
Sabil-kuttab of Abu’l Iqbal ‘Arifin Bey
AH
1125 /
AD
1713
102
74
Hawd of Qaytbay
before
75
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH
882 /
AD
1477
35, 103
76
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
AH
882 /
AD
1477
103
77
House in the waqf of Zaynab Khatun
AH
873 and 1125 /
96
Madrasat al-Ghanamiya
AH
774 /
97
Mosque of al-Azhar
AH
359–61 /
98
Mosque of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab
AH
1188 /
102
Mosque of al-Ayni
AH
814 /
103
Zawiya of Ahmad ibn Sha’ban
tenth century
105
Mausoleum of Sudun al-Qasrawi
before
107
Mosque of Kafur al-Zimam
AH
829–30 /
AD
109
Mosque of al-Fakahani and Fatimid doors
AH
1184 /
1736;
112
Mosque of Aslam al-Silahdar
AH
745–46 /
113
Tomb of Azdumur
before
114
Mosque of Qagmas al-Ishaqi
AH
885 /
AD
1480
106
115
Mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar
AH
725 /
AD
1324
106
116
Mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘
AH
555 /
AD
1160
68, 106–7
117
Mosque of Mahmud al-Kurdi
AH
795 /
AD
1393
107
118
Mosque of Inal al-Yusufi
AH
794 /
AD
1392–93
119
Mosque of Ganibak
AH
830 /
AD
1426
120
Mosque of al-Maridani
AH
738–40 /
123
Mosque of Aqsunqur
AH
747 /
204
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
Page
AH
AD
AD
AH
AD
AH
AD
/ seventeenth century
AD
1496
AD
1468 and 1713
62, 103 62, 103
970–72
6, 34, 36, 46, 61, 66, 103–4 104
1411 AH
AD
AD
922 /
AD
102
102
1774
873 /
AD
101–2
1372
AD
AD
100
1780
901 /
AD
AH
1725
104 / sixteenth century
AD
104–5
1468
105
1425–26
105
AD
AH
544 /
AD
1149 (doors)
105
1344–45
105–6
1517
106
AD
1337–39
1346
37, 107 107–8 108 34, 61, 108
Warner Catalogue NN
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Page 205
Date
No.
Name of Monument
125
Madrasa of Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban
AH
770 /
126
Mosque of Alti Barmaq
AH
1123 /
127
Mosque of Sudun Min Zada
AH
804 /
128
Qubba of al-Qimari
AH
730 /
129
Mosque and mausoleum of Ganem al-Bahlawan
AH
883–916 /
130
Mosque of Ulmas
AH
730 /
AD
1329–30
110
131
Mosque of Ilgay al-Yusufi
AH
774 /
AD
1373
110
133
Madrasa of Sultan Hasan
AH
757–64 /
AD
134
Madrasa of Gawhar al-Lala
AH
833 /
AD
1430
111
135
Mosque al-Mahmudiya
AH
975 /
AD
1568
111–12
136
Mosque of Qanibay al-Sayfi (Amir Akhur)
AH
908 /
AD
1503
112
Page
1368
109
1711
109
AD
1401
109
AD
1329
109–10
AD
AD
AD
1478–1510
1356–62
110
3, 6, 23, 28, 32, 34, 37, 60, 110–11
(137) Mosque of al-Sukkari
twelfth century
138
Mosque of Mangak al-Yusufi
AH
750 /
AD
1349
112
139
Mausoleum of Yunus al-Dawadar
AH
783 /
AD
1382
113
140
Khanqah of Nizam al-Din
AH
757 /
AD
1356
113
(141) Ribat of al-Zayni
AH
856 /
AD
1452
76, 113
142
Mosque of Sulayman Pasha
AH
935 /
AD
1528
113
143
Mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad
AH
735 /
AD
1335
114
144
Sabil of Shaykhu
AH
755 /
AD
1354
114
145
Mosque of Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab
AH
1109 /
146
Zawiyat al-‘Abbar
AH
683 /
AD
1284–85
114
147
Mosque of Shaykhu
AH
750 /
AD
1349
115
148
Mosque of al-Ghuri
AH
909 /
AD
1504
37, 115
150
Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan
AH
1131 /
1718
115
151
Mosque of Qanibay al-Muhammadi
AH
816 /
AD
1413
115
152
Khanqah of Shaykhu
AH
756 /
AD
1355
116
153
Mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi
ca.
AH
154
Minaret of Qanibay al-Sharkasi
AH
845 /
155
Zawiya of Mustafa Pasha
AH
1035 /
156
Minaret of the mosque of al-Baqli
AH
696 /
AD
1297
117
159
Minaret of the mosque of al-Ghuri
AH
915 /
AD
1509
117
160
Mosque of Messih Pasha
AH
983 /
AD
1575
117
167
Sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Gawish
AH
1042 /
AD
AD
AH
/ eighteenth century
1697
114
768–78 and 885–94 / AD
AD
1366–77 and 1480–89
116
1441–42
116
1625
117
AD
AD
I N D E X
43, 112
AD
1632
O F
117
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
205
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Page 206
No.
Name of Monument
169
Mausoleum of Shagarat al-Durr
Date
Page
AH
648 /
AD
1250
45, 49, 117–18
(170) Mausoleum of Qurqumas
AH
917 /
AD
1511
37, 72, 118
173
Zawiya of Gulaq
before
175
Madrasa and sabil of al-Ashraf Barsbay
AH
829 /
176
Mosque of Qadi Sharaf al-Din
AH
717–38 /
AD
177
Façade of the mosque of Muqbil al-Dawudi
AH
798 /
1395
178
Mosque of al-Gamali Yusuf
ca.
AH
179
Sabil-kuttab of al-Kirdani
eleventh century
180
Mosque and sabil of Muhammad Sai‘d Gaqmaq
AH
855 /
AD
1451
119
181
Mosque of Murad Pasha
AH
986 /
AD
1578
120
182
Mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din
AH
848 /
AD
1444
76, 120
184
Mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri
AH
821 /
AD
1418
120
185
Mosque of Asanbugha
AH
772 /
AD
1370
120
(186) Madrasa of Muhammad Abu’l Fadl
AH
689 /
AD
1290
121
187
Complex of Sultan Barquq
AH
786–88 /
188
Wikala of Taghribardi
tenth century
189
Mosque of al-Ghuri and house to the north
AH
909–10 /
AD
190
Mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh
AH
823 /
1420
191
Mausoleum of Baybars al-Khayyat
AH
920–21 /
AD
192
Zawiya of Fayruz
AH
830 /
1426
193
Mosque of Aqsunqur al-Fariqani al-Habashli
AH
1080 /
AD
1669–70
123
194
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Baqi Khayr al-Din
AH
1088 /
AD
1677
123
195
Mosque of al-Mar’a (Fatima Shaqra)
AH
873 /
196
Mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin
AH
1035 /
AD
1625
43, 123
197
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati
AH
1122 /
AD
1710
123
198
Sabil in the waqf of Hebaysh
twelfth century
199
Bab Zuwayla
AH
485 /
200
Mosque of Malika Safiya
AH
1019 /
201
Mosque of al-Burdayni
AH
1025–38 /
202
Remains of the mosque of Qawsun
AH
730 /
AD
1330
60, 125
203
Zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq
AH
811 /
AD
1408
68, 70, 125
204
Mosque of Qadi Yahya
AH
856 /
AD
1452
125
205
Minaret and door of the mosque of Bashtak
AH
736 /
AD
1336
125
206
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
AH
870 /
AD
845 /
AD
AD
AD
1466
118
1425
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
118
1317–37
118–19 119
1441–42 AH
119
/ seventeenth century
1384–86 / sixteenth century
AH
121
AD
121–22 34, 37, 46, 52, 122
1515
122 123
1468
123
/ eighteenth century
1092
AD
1610 AD
119
121
1504–5
AH
AD
1616–29
AD
124
3, 23, 28, 34, 37, 64, 68, 124 124 124
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Page 207
No.
Name of Monument
206
Mosque of Qaraqoga al-Hasani
AH
845 /
AD
1441–42
207
Façade and minaret of the mosque of Mughalbay Taz
AH
871 /
AD
1466
208
Palace of Radwan Bey
AH
1060 /
209
Mosque of Taghribardi
AH
844 /
210
Mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir
AH
1224 /
211
Mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi
AH
900 /
213
Sabil of Yusuf al-Kurdi
tenth century
214
Façade of zawiya of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
AH
215
Qubba of Awlad al-Asyad
eighth century
217
Façade of the mosque of Gaqmaq
AH
853 /
AD
1449
128
218
Mosque of Sarghatmish
AH
757 /
AD
1356
44, 128
219
Sabil of Yusuf Bey
AH
1044 /
220
Mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun
AH
263–65 /
221
Mosque of Salar and Sangar
AH
703 /
AD
1303
129
222
Hawd of Qaytbay
AH
880 /
AD
1475
130
223
Mosque of Qaytbay
AH
880 /
AD
1475
130
224
Gate of the mosque of Qawsun
AH
730 /
AD
1330
130
225
Takiyat al-Sulaymaniya
AH
950 /
AD
1543
130
226
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Umar Bey
AH
1159 /
228
House of Qaytbay
AH
890 /
229
Tomb of Yusuf Agha al-Habashi
AH
1013 /
AD
1604
131
230
Sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada
AH
1088 /
AD
1677
131
232
Sabil of Mustafa Musali Shurbagi
AH
1127 /
AD
1715
131
233
Mosque of the amir Husayn
AH
719 /
AD
1319
131
234
Mausoleum of Abu’l Yusufayn
AH
730 /
AD
1329
132
235
House of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz
ninth century and
Date
Page
1142 /
and
126–27
1494
127 / sixteenth century
AH
AH
79, 127 / fourteenth century
127
AD
1634 AD
AD
128
876–79
6, 32, 34, 44, 45, 55, 128–29
1746
130–31
1485
131
AH
1192 / fifteenth century
1778
35, 132
236
Sabil-kuttab of Taha Hasan al-Wardani
twelfth century
AH
237
Minaret of the zawiyat al-Hunud
ca.
AH
1315
238
Sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan
AH
1049–50 /
240
Sabil and tomb of ‘Umar Agha
AH
1063 /
241
Zawiya of Muhammad Durgham
tenth century
242
Madrasa of Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi
AH
715 /
748 /
127
AD
1729
AD
AD
126
1809
AD
AD
68, 70, 126
1440
AD
AD
126
1650
AD
AD
125–26
AD
AD
AD
/ eighteenth century
132
AD
132
1639–40
132–33
1652 AH
133
/ sixteenth century
AD
1347
I N D E X
O F
133
AD
133
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
207
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Page 208
No.
Name of Monument
Date
243
Sabil-kuttab of Hasan Agha Koklian
AH
1106 /
244
Hammam of Bashtak
AH
742 /
AD
1341
133
245
Ribat of Ahmad ibn Sulayman
AH
690 /
AD
1291
134
246
Sabil of Mustafa Sinan
AH
1040 /
247
Gate of Mangak al-Yusufi
AH
747 /
248
Mosque of Khayrbak
AH
908 and after /
249
Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri
ca.
AH
250
Mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi
AH
785 /
AD
1383
135
251
Hawd-kuttab of Aytmish al-Bagasi
AH
785 /
AD
1383
135
255
Door, tomb, and sabil-kuttab of Tarabay al-Sharifi
AH
909 /
AD
1503
135–36
256
Qubbat al-Komi
tenth century
257
Bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh
AH
821–23 /
AD
258
Zawiya of Hasan al-Rumi
AH
929 /
1522
260
Sabil and hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
before
261
Qubbat al-Muzaffar ‘Alam al-Din Sangar
AH
722 /
262
Sabil in the waqf of Yusuf Bey
AH
1186 /
263
Tomb of Hasan Sadaqa
AH
715–21 /
265
Sabil-kuttab and rab‘ of al-Qizlar
AH
1028 /
266
Palace of Yashbak
AH
731–38 /
AD
267
Palace of the amir Taz
AH
753 /
1352
268
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada
AH
1088 /
269
Madrasa of Bashir Agha al-Gumdar
AH
761 /
AD
1359
138
270
Tomb of Safi al-Din Gawhar
AH
714 /
AD
1315
138
272
Sabil, zawiya, and wikala of Mustafa Bey Tabtabay
AH
1047 /
Page
1694
AD
AD
AD
135
136
AD
43, 136 136
AD
1750
136
AD
AD
136–37
1772
AD
AD
137
1315–21
137
1618
137
1330–37
137 138
1677
138
1637
278
AH
AD
34, 134
1418–20
twelfth century (?) 899 /
1502 and after
/ fifteenth century
AH
(277) Tomb of ‘Ali al-Gizi Bab Qaytbay (al-Qarafa)
AD
1322
AD
AD
134
1329–30
1164 /
AD
134
1346
730 /
AH
1630
AD
AD
133
138 AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
1494
AD
139 139
(287) Remains of the rab‘ of Tughugh
eighth century
AH
/ fourteenth century
AD
139
288
North minaret of al-Sultaniya
eighth century
AH
/ fourteenth century
AD
139
289
Mausoleum of al-Sultaniya
eighth century
AH
/ fourteenth century
AD
37, 139
290
Khanqah and minaret of Qawsun
AH
736 /
AD
1335–36
37, 139
291
Mausoleum of Qawsun
AH
736 /
AD
1335–36
139–40
303
Mausoleum of Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar
AH
901 /
AD
1495–96
140
305
Well of Salah al-Din (Bir Yusuf)
AH
572–89 /
208
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
AD
1176–93
25, 27, 140
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No.
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2:39 PM
Page 209
Name of Monument
Date
Page
307
Ayyubid wall
AH
566–72 /
AD
308
Takiya and sabil-kuttab of Sultan Mahmud
AH
1164 /
AD
1750
35, 141–42
309
Sabil-kuttab of Bashir Agha Dar Sa‘ada
AH
1131 /
AD
1718
142
311
Sabil in the waqf of Kulsun
before
312
Khanqah of Sa‘ad al-Din ibn Ghurab
AH
AH
1171–76
1110 /
803–8 /
140–41
1689
AD
142
1400–6
AD
142
(317) Minaret of the mosque of Gaqmaq
before
321
House and sabil of al-Kritliya
AH
1041 /
322
Remains of the palace of al-Ghuri
AH
906–22 /
323
Hawd of Shaykhu
eleventh century
324
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
AH
325
Gate of the Darb al-Labbana
eighth century
326
Takiya of Taqi al-Din al-Bistami
AH
327
Tomb of Sandal al-Mangaki
eighth century
328
Sabil-kuttab of Shahin Agha Ahmad
AH
1086 /
AD
1675
144
329
Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Mustafa al-Muhasibgi
AH
1129 /
AD
1716
144
330
Gate of Malika Safiya
AH
1019 /
AD
1610
144
331
Sabil-kuttab of Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan
AH
1167 /
AD
1753
145
332
Takiyat al-Gulshani
AH
926 /
(334) Maq‘ad of the house of al-Manawi
AH
1169 /
AD
1755
145
335
AH
1088 /
AD
1677
145
(336) Remains of the palace of Muhammad ibn Souwaydan AH 1028 /
AD
1618
145
337
Sabil-kuttab of Ruqayya Dudu
AH
1174 /
AD
1761
145–46
339
Bayt al-Sihaymi
AH
1058–1211 /
351
Khan al-Zarakisha
ca.
AH
352
Fatimid wall
AH
480 /
(353) Zawiyat al-Arbain
AH
1267 /
355
House of ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi
tenth century
AH
356
Bab al-Harat al-Mabyada
AH
1084 /
1673
357
Tomb of al-Shurafa
before
358
Sabil-kuttab of Nafisa al-Bayda
AH
359
Tomb of ‘Ali Negm
eleventh century
360
Mausoleum of Qansuh Abu Sa‘id
AH
904 /
AH
1193 /
Sabil-kuttab of ‘Abbas Agha
(361) Sabil and house of Hasan (Sabil Darb al-Masmat)
AH
884 /
847 /
857 /
AD
AD
AD
AH
1211 /
1501–16 AH
143
/ seventeenth century
143
AD
143
AH
/ fourteenth century
143–44
AD
144
AH
/ fourteenth century
144
AD
1519
AD
145
AD
1648–1796
76, 146
1509
64, 66, 146
1087
AD
AD
146–47
1850
901 /
147
/ sixteenth century
AD
147
AD
147 1496
147
1796 AH
147 / seventeenth century
147
AD
1499
AD
I N D E X
44, 143
1443
AD
AD
142–43
1479
915 / AD
1453
1631
AD
AD
AD
148
1779–80
O F
B U I L D I N G S
148
B Y
N U M B E R
209
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No.
Name of Monument
Date
363
Sabil of Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan
AH
1106 /
AD
1694
148
364
House of ‘Abd al-Hamid Wa’di
AH
1015 /
AD
1606
148
365
Zawiya of Radwan Bey
AH
1060 /
AD
1650
70, 148
Page
(366) Sabat in the waqf of al-Fakahani
tenth century
(367) Façade of the wikalat al-Kharbutli
AH
1176 /
AD
/ sixteenth century
AH
148
AD
1762–63
148
(368) Façade of the houses of Munib al-Alayli and Shaykh al-Qayati
twelfth century
/ eighteenth century
AH
68, 148–49
AD
369
Waterwheel
AH
712 /
AD
1312
149
370
Mausoleum of Aqtay al-Farisi
AH
652 /
AD
1254
149
(371) Zawiya of Udah Basha
AH
1084 /
(374) Zawiya and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh Murshid
AH
940 /
(375) House of Hasan ‘Abd al-Latif
twelfth century
376
Sabil of the amir Khalil
AH
1174 /
AD
1761
149
377
Mosque of Qara Muhammad Pasha
AH
1113 /
AD
1701
150
(378) Mosque of Sayyida ‘Ayesha
AH
1175 /
AD
1762
46, 150
382
Mosque of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar
AH
1253–55 /
395
Façade of the wikala of Nafisa al-Bayda
AH
1211 /
AD
1796
150
396
Wikala and sabil of ‘Abbas Agha
AH
1106 /
AD
1694
150
397
Wikala and sabil of al-Naqadi
AH
1027 /
AD
1618
150–51
398
Wikalat Bazar’a
late eleventh century
AH
(399) Wikalat al-Firakh
eighth century (?)
/ fourteenth century (?)
(400) Manzil in the waqf al-Haramayn
tenth century
401
Sabil-kuttab of Tusun Pasha
AH
1236 /
AD
1820
151
402
Sabil-kuttab of Isma‘il Pasha
AH
1244 /
AD
1828
151
1673
AD
AD
149
1533–34 / eighteenth century
AH
AD
AH
149 149
AD
1837–39
AH
84, 150
/ seventeenth century
/ sixteenth century
AD
AD
151 151 64, 66, 151
AD
(403) Façade of the wikalat al-Lawand
before
AH
1120 /
AD
1708
151
(404) Hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
before
AH
1179 /
AD
1765
152
405
Sabil-kuttab of Hasan Katkhuda
AH
406
Qasaba of Radwan Bey (western side, including the façade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla)
407
1701
152
eleventh century
AH
/ seventeenth century
AD
70,152
eleventh century
AH
/ seventeenth century
AD
152
eleventh century
AH
/ seventeenth century
AD
6, 56, 152
Qasaba of Radwan Bey (eastern side, including the façade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla)
210
AD
House façades at nos. 17, 19, and 20, Shari‘ al-Khiyamiya
408
1113 /
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N U M B E R
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Name of Monument
Date
Page
(409) Façades to the south of the zawiya of Farag ibn Barquq eleventh century 410
Hammam of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh
AH
823 /
411
Wikala and sabil-kuttab of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi
AH
1047 /
413
Qubba of Shaykh ‘Abdallah
tenth century
AD
AH
/ seventeenth century
1420
153
1637
AD
153
/ sixteenth century
AH
(414) Mosque of al-Khalawati
AH
1173 /
(417) Tomb of Sangar al-Gamaqdar
AH
710 /
420
AH
1246 /
AD
1830
(421) Sabil, hawd, and manzil of Kur ‘Abdallah
AH
1145 /
AD
1732–33
(422) Wikalat al-Nasharin
before
423
AH
Sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan
Wikalat al-Sanadqiya
AH
1100 /
153
AD
1759
AD
AD
152
AD
153
1310
1215 / AD
153 76, 153
AD
153
1800
154
1688–89
154
(424) Façade of the wikala in the waqf of al-Matyali
eleventh century
AH
425
Wikalat al-Gallaba
tenth century
AH
/ sixteenth century
AD
37, 154
426
Minaret and mosque of ‘Ali al-Amri
tenth century
AH
/ sixteenth century
AD
154
/ seventeenth century
154
AD
(427) Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda al-Dawudli or ‘Umar Gawish
AH
1147 /
AH
622 /
(429) Sabil of Salim Agha
AH
1166 /
(431) Façade of zawiyat al-Tabbakh
twelfth century (?)
433
eleventh century and
428
Madrasat al-Kamiliya
Wikala and sabil in the waqf al-Haramayn
AD
AD
1735
154
1225
AD
154–55
1753
72, 155 AH
/ eighteenth century (?) AH
1272 /
seventeenth century and (434) Wikala of Abu’l Rus
AH
(435) Manzil in the waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan
twelfth century
436
AH
Sabil, mosque, and tomb of Shaykh Ramadan
1131 /
1175 /
AD
AD
155
AD
AD
1856
155
1718–19 AH
155
/ eighteenth century
155
AD
1762
155
(437) House of Shaykh Sayim
twelfth century
(439) House and qa‘a in the waqf of al-‘Abbar
twelfth century (?)
(440) Maq‘ad of Qaytbay
ca.
(443) Parts of the house of Gawhar Agha
twelfth century
445
House of Sitt Wasila‘
AH
1046 /
AD
1637
156
446
House of ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi
AH
1144 /
AD
1731
156
(447) Sabil-kuttab of ‘Uthman ‘Abdallah Roq‘et al-Qamh
AH
1125 /
AD
1713
62, 156–57
448
AH
1168 /
AD
1754
62, 157
(451) Façade of the mosque of al-Hifni
AH
1172 /
AD
1759
76, 157
452
AH
1132 /
AD
1719
157
Mosque and sabil of Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghurayib
House and sabil-kuttab of the amir ‘Abdallah
AH
896 /
I N D E X
AD
AH
/ eighteenth century AH
62,155–56
AD
/ eighteenth century (?)
156
AD
1490 AH
O F
/ eighteenth century
B U I L D I N G S
156 156
AD
B Y
N U M B E R
211
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Date
Name of Monument
Page
(453) Wikala of Shaykh ‘Abud al-Mana‘ifa
eleventh century
(457) House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH
1062 /
(458) Khan Sa‘id
AH
920–21 /
AH
1199 /
459
/ seventeenth century
157
AD
1652
AD
AD
157
1515
157
Mosque of ‘Ali ibn al-Arabi and house of Muhammad al-Mahruqi
1784
AD
460
Wikalat al-Sharaybi
twelfth century
461
Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Effendi Salim
AH
1111 /
462
Mosque of al-Gawhari and façade AH
1261 /
of the adjoining building 463
AH
Manzil of al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya
AD
AH
157–58 / eighteenth century
158
AD
1699
158
1845
158
AD
tenth century
AH; AH
1010 and 1169 /
sixteenth century
AD; AD
1679 and 1755
158
(464) Mosque of Ganem al-Tagir
AH
871 /
AD
1466
158
(465) Mosque of al-Ghamri
AH
850 /
AD
1446
37, 159
466
sixth century
Qa‘a of al-Dardir
(468) Façade of the wikalat al-Tabtabay
AH
1047 /
AD
AH
/ twelfth century
159
AD
1637
(469) Façade of the houses next to the sabil al-Tabtabay twelfth century (?)
159 AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
159
AD
(470) Manzil of ‘Uthman ‘Amara and Zaynab Umm Ahmad
twelfth century
AH
471
House of Mustafa Ga‘far
AH
1125 /
476
Mausoleum of Ragab al-Shirazi
AH
781 /
477
Zawiya of Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati
AH
411–27 /
(478) Two tombs in the zawiyat al-Sutuhi
ca.
AH
479
Fatimid mausoleum
AH
527 /
480
Mosque of Sa‘id al-Su‘ada
thirteenth century
AD
AD
159
1379 AD
160
1021–36 AD
160
1300 (?)
160 AH
/ nineteenth century
AH
482
Church of the Virgin, Harat Zuwayla
fourth–twelfth century
483
Church of the Virgin, Harat al-Rum
eighth (?)–thirteenth century
AD
160
1133
(481) Façade of the mosque of al-Bulqini
791 /
159
AD
1713
700 (?) / AD
/ eighteenth century
160
AD
1389
160
nineteenth century
AH
/ tenth–eighteenth century AH
AD
160–61
/ fourteenth (?)– 161
AD
(484) Façade and door of wikala of al-Uqbi, or Khan al-Fisqiya
before
AH
901 /
AD
(485) Mosque of Yahya ibn ‘Aqab
AH
(486) House in the waqf of al-Safti
twelfth century (?)
(487) Façades of houses in Shari‘ al-Dardir
eleventh century
212
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
1047 /
N U M B E R
AD
1496
161
1637
161 AH
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
/ seventeenth century
AD
AD
161 161
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Name of Monument
(488) House in the waqf of al-Magharba
Date
Page
eleventh–twelfth century
AH
/
seventeenth–eighteenth century (489) Sabil and houses in Shari‘ al-Ghamri
twelfth century (?)
(490) Façade of the manzil and hammam al-Margush
AH
1194 /
AH
161
AD
/ eighteenth century (?)
162
AD
1780
AD
162
(491) Façade and portal of the wikala and sabil-kuttab in the ‘Atfat al-Zababqi
twelfth century
AH
/ eighteenth century
162
AD
(493) House of ‘Abd al-Mu’min Shakrun
eleventh century (?)
(495) Manzil in the waqf of Bashir Agha
twelfth century (?)
(496) Sabil and wikalat al-Manawi
before
497
twelfth century
AH
/ eighteenth century
AD
162–63
(498) Sabil-rab‘ al-Balfiya
twelfth century
AH
/ eighteenth century
AD
163
499
AH
House of ‘Ali Effendi Labib
Hawsh of ‘Utay / Wikala of Muhsin Ramadan
AH
1233 /
1159 /
AD
AH
AD
(501) House of Mahmud Sudan
twelfth century
(502) Zawiya of Sidi Muhammad al-Sha’rani
tenth century (?)
503
AH
AD
twelfth century
505
AH
1229 /
AD
before
507
Sabil of Kosa Sinan
twelfth century
510
Qubba of Shaykh Su‘ud
AH
941 /
(514) House of Khusraw Pasha
AH
1065 /
(518) Rab‘ of Qaytbay
ca.
AH
521
AH
710 /
Mosque of Ahmad Bey Kohya
162
/ late eighteenth century
AD
/ sixteenth century (?)
AD
896 /
163 163–64
/ eighteenth century
164
AD
164
AD
AH
32, 163 163
AD
1755
/ eighteenth century
62, 164 164
AD
1534
AD
AD
AH
/ eighteenth century
AH
AH
1169 /
AD
1747
1814
(506) Sabil-kuttab of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya
AH
AH
162 162
AD
1848
(504) House in the waqf of Banush Bey The Gawhara Palace
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
163
late twelfth century
1265 /
/ seventeenth century (?)
1817
(500) Façade of the house of al-Kashif
Mosque of Muhammad ‘Ali
AH
164
1654–55
165
1490
165
AD
1310
165
(534) Maq‘ad of the Faramangui House
twelfth century
541
House in the waqf of al-Mulla
AH
545
House in the waqf of Mustafa Sinan
eleventh century
AH
/ seventeenth century
AD
165
548
Wikala in the waqf al-Tutungi
eleventh century
AH
/ seventeenth century
AD
165
549
Remains of the palace of al-Nasir Muhammad
AH
714 /
550
Two street roofings behind the mosque of al-Ghuri
AH
909–10 /
(551) Bab al-Khala (al-Qarafa)
AH
566–72 (?) /
(552) Tiles in the mosque of al-Khudayri
AH
1181 /
AD
1767
166
553
AH
1094 /
AD
1683
166
Sabil-kuttab of Mustafa Shurbagi Mustahfizan
1065 /
AD
AD
I N D E X
AH
/ eighteenth century
165
AD
1654
165
1314 AD
166
1504–5 AD
O F
166
1171–76 (?)
B U I L D I N G S
62, 166
B Y
N U M B E R
213
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Page 214
No.
Name of Monument
Date
554
Zawiya of Gaf‘ar al-Sadiq
AH
1100 /
AD
1688–89
166
555
Bab al-‘Azab
AH
1168 /
AD
1754
167
556
Bab al-Mudarrag
AH
579 /
AD
1183–84
167
557
Sabil of al-Wafa‘iya
AH
846 /
AD
1442
167
Page
(558) Mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya
before
559
House of Amna bint Salim
AH
947 /
AD
1540
45, 167
561
Sabil of al-Nasir Muhammad
AH
726 /
AD
1326
167–68
562
Hammam of Inal
AH
861 /
AD
1456
168
564
Hammam al-Tanbali
twelfth century
565
Mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir
AH
1169 /
AH
1233 /
AD
AH
1755
/ eighteenth century
72, 167
35, 168
AD
1817
AD
76, 168
(566) Hammam al-Effendi
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
(567) Hammam al-‘Adawi
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
569
Cistern in the Citadel
AH
712 /
586
Tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian
AH
1052 /
588
Sabil-kuttab of Husayn al-Shu’aybi
twelfth century
590
Mausoleum of Husam al-Din al-Turuntay
AH
689 /
591
Sabil and wikala of Udah Basha
AH
1084 /
AD
1673
169
592
Hammam al-Malatyali
AH
1194 /
AD
1780
169
593
Hawd of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan
AH
1070 /
AD
1659
170
(595) House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH
1062/
AD
1652
170
596
Hammam al-Sukkariya
twelfth century
AH
/ eighteenth century
AD
170
597
Wikalat al-Muhammadayn
twelfth century
AH
/ eighteenth century
AD
170
AD
1312
168 64, 66, 168 168
1642
AD
AD
AD
AD
AH
169 / eighteenth century
169
AD
1290
169
(598) Wikala in the waqf al-Haramayn
AH
1080 /
AD
1669
170
604
Wikala of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar
AH
1253 /
AD
1837
170
605
The Archives Building
AH
1244 /
AD
1828
170–71
606
The Mint
AH
1227 /
AD
1812
171
609
House in the waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri
AH
1040–45 /
AD
612
The Harim Palace
AH
1234 /
AD
1827
171
613
House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH
1062 /
AD
1652
171
614
Bab al-Barqiya
AH
566–72 /
AD
615
Façade of the wikala of Bedawiya Shahin
AH
1189 /
1766
616
Gate of the Bayt al-Qadi
thirteenth century
617
Wall of the Qaramidan
AH
214
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
712 /
N U M B E R
AD
AD
1630–35
171
1171–76
1312
171 171–72
AH
/ nineteenth century
AD
172 172
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Page 215
No.
Name of Monument
Date
619
House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH
1062 /
U1
Wikalat al-Shishini
ca.
AH
U2
Tomb of Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi
twelfth century
U3
House of al-Khorazati
AH
U4
Hammam al-Gamaliya
before
AH
1152 /
AD
1739
173
U5
Wikalat al-Mulla al-Kabira
before
AH
1112 /
AD
1700
173
U6
Mosque of al-Shuhada
AH
1281 /
AD
1864
173
U7
House of al-Agam
AH
1288 /
AD
1871
173
U8
Bab al-Qantara
AH
480 /
U9
Mosque of Shams al-Din al-Ramli
before
U10
Bab al-Tawfiq
AH
480 /
U11
Tower no. 17
AH
566 (?) /
U12
Mosque of Isma‘il al-Sha’rani
twelfth century (?)
U13
Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Pasha
AH
U14
Wikalat al-Gulshaniya
before
AH
1215 /
AD
1800
174
U15
Wikalat ‘Ain al-Gazal
before
AH
1160 /
AD
1747
174
U16
Hammam al-Nahhasin
before
AH
1215 /
AD
1800
174
U17
Wikalat al-‘Asal
eleventh–thirteenth century
Page AD
1107 /
1299 /
AD
AD
AH
172
1695
AD
172
/ eighteenth century
AH
172
1087
173 1550
AD
173
1087 AD
AD
173
1170 (?)
173
/ eighteenth century (?)
AH
174
AD
1864
174
AH
/
seventeenth–nineteenth century U18
Synagogue of Ha‘im Capusi
ca.
U19
Wikala of ‘Umar ibn Trak
eleventh–thirteenth century (?)
AH
172
AD
1881
957 /
AD
1281 /
1652
1009–1349 /
174
AD
1600–1930
AD
AH
174 /
seventeenth–nineteenth century (?)
175
AD
U20
House entrance, no. 22, Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiya
twelfth century
U21
Synagogue of Maimonides
sixth–fourteenth century AH / twelfth–twentieth century AD
U22
Karaite Synagogue
thirteenth century
U23
Church of the Holy Order of St. Francis
AH
U24
Portal of the wikalat al-Mihmandariya
eleventh century (?)
U25
Structure adjacent to Ayyubid wall
thirteenth century (?)
AH
U26
Minaret and portal to the madrasat al-Ghanamiya
twelfth century (?)
/ eighteenth century (?)
U27
Takiya of Abu’l Dhahab
ca.
U28
Wikala of Bakr Shurbagi (?)
eleventh century
AH
U29
Mosque of Ahmad al-Dardir
ca.
1785
U30
Hammam al-Sharaybi
twelfth century
1271 /
AH
AH
AD
1318 /
1200 /
I N D E X
AH
/ eighteenth century
AH
175
AD
/ nineteenth century
175
AD
1854
AD
AD
175 AH
AH
/ seventeenth century (?)
AD
175
/ nineteenth century (?)
AD
175
AD
1900
AH
O F
175
176
/ seventeenth century
/ eighteenth century
B U I L D I N G S
62, 176
176
AD
176 176
AD
B Y
N U M B E R
215
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Page 216
No.
Name of Monument
Date
U31
Zawiyat al-Harisi
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
176
U32
Ottoman maq‘ad
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
176
U33
Wikalat al-Sayf
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
U34
Cathedral of St. Nicholas
AH
U35
Hammam al-Gabali
before
AH
U36
Sabil of Umm Husayn Bey
ca.
AH
1267 /
AD
1851
76, 177
U37
Tomb of Fatma al-Nabawiya
ca.
AH
1267 /
AD
1850
177
U38
Hammam Darb al-Ahmar
twelfth century (?)
U39
Wikala of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada
AH
1088 /
AD
1677
177
U40
Zawiya of Arif Pasha
AH
1284 /
AD
1868
177
U41
Zawiya of ‘Ali al-Maghrabi
AH
1282 (?) /
U42
Hammam al-Qirabiya
twelfth century (?)
AH
U43
House of Hanafi al-Bayda, twelfth century
/ eighteenth century
no. 4, ‘Atfat Isma‘il Kashif
Page
1306 /
176
AD
1888
AD
601 /
AD
177 1205
177
/ eighteenth century (?)
AH
177
AD
1866 (?)
AD
AH
178
/ eighteenth century (?)
178
AD
178
AD
U44
Sabil-kuttab, no. 5, Shari‘ al-Magharbellin
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
178
U45
Maq‘ad to the east of the Bab Zuwayla
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
148
U46
Islamic Museum
AH
1321 /
U47
Mosque of Ragab Agha
ca.
AH
U48
House, no. 5, Shari‘ al-Qirabiya
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
U49
Maq‘ad, no. 14, Shari‘ al-Ganibakiya
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
U50
Rab‘-wikala, no. 8, Darb al-Dalil
eleventh century (?)
U51
The Citadel, wall of the Northern Enclosure
AH
U52
Tomb of Shaykh Ibrahim al-Giza
eleventh century (?)
AH
/ seventeenth century (?)
AD
180
U53
Tomb of Shaykh ‘Uthman al-Fathi
eleventh century (?)
AH
/ seventeenth century (?)
AD
180
U54
The Citadel Army Barracks
ca.
U55
Tomb of al-Marghani
thirteenth century
U56
House, no. 45, Shari‘ al-Mahgar
AH
1334 /
U57
House, no. 2, ‘Atfat al-Zelahi
ca.
AH
U58
Zawiya and tomb of Shaykh ‘Abdallah al-Baz
eleventh century (?)
U59
House of ‘Umar Agha
AH
U60
House, no. 6, Shari‘ Hammam Bashtak
eleventh century
U61
Rab‘ al-Tabbana
AH
921–22 /
AD
U62
New mosque of Qawsun
AH
1311 /
1893
216
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
1903
AD
1267 /
AD
579–1242 /
AH
1244 /
N U M B E R
AD
AD
178
AH
178
AD
179
AD
/ seventeenth century (?)
AD
1183–1826
1828 AH
AD
180
/ nineteenth century
180
AD
180
1850 AH
181 / seventeenth century (?)
1652 AH
179 179–80
1915
AD
1267 /
1063 /
1850
AD
AD
43, 178
AD
181 181
/ seventeenth century
1516
AD
181 181 46, 60, 181
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No.
Name of Monument
Date
U63
House, no. 52, Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali
AH
1290 /
AD
1873
181
U64
House, no. 15, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
AH
1334 /
AD
1915
181
U65
House, no. 18, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
ca.
AH
1334 /
AD
1915
182
U66
House, no. 12, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
ca.
AH
1334 /
AD
1915
182
U67
House, no. 6, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
AH
1346 /
AD
1927
182
U68
Sabil of Ulfat Qadin
AH
1280 /
AD
1863
182
U69
Mosque of Mustafa Fadil Pasha
AH
1280 /
AD
1863
182
U70
Mosque of ‘Ali al-Tarrabi
eleventh century (?)
U71
Well, quarry, and ancillary structures
AH
U72
Bayt al-Gazia
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
183
U73
House, no. 24, Harat Salim Pasha
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
AD
183
U74
Wikala of Mustafa Sinan
AH
U75
Wikala, no. 23, Suq al-Silah
eleventh century
U76
Wikala, no. 4, Suq al-Silah
eleventh century (?)
U77
Wikala of Qaytbay al-Surugiya
before
U78
Hammam al-Dud
U79
Wikalat al-Khalawati
before
U80
Tomb of Muhammad al-Ka‘aki
tenth century
U81
Wall of the southern enclosure and Bab al-Gabal
eighth–thirteenth century AH / fourteenth–nineteenth century AD 184
U82
Archaeological Garden and Theater
ca.
AH
1416 /
AD
1995
184
U83
Diwan of Schools
ca.
AH
1246 /
AD
1830
184
U84
Mamluk kitchens
eighth and thirteenth centuries
Page
572–89 (?) /
1040 /
AH
AH
/ seventeenth century (?)
182
AD
1176–93 (?)
AD
182–83
1630
AD
902 /
183
AH
/ seventeenth century AH
183
AD
/ seventeenth century (?)
183
AD
1496
AD
183
ca. AH 658–thirteenth century / AD 1259–nineteenth century AH
1110 /
AD
1698
184
/ sixteenth century
AH
183
AH
184
AD
/
fourteenth and nineteenth centuries
184
AD
U85
Bab al-Gedid
AH
1242 /
U86
Bab al-Alam, Military Prison, and School of Artillery
AH
1246–1300 /
U87
Burg al-Siba‘
AH
659–76 /
U88
Qa‘at al-Ashrafiya
AH
692 /
U89
Burg al-Rafraf
AH
689–714 /
AD
1290–1314
185
U90
House of Hasan Pasha Rashid
ca.
AH
1339 /
AD
1920
185
U91
The Double-Cross Hall
AH
689–714 (?) /
U92
The Arsenal
ca.
AH
U93
Inner Gate
thirteenth century
U94
Qubbat al-Biraqdar
late eleventh century
1826
AD
AD
AD
AD
1830–82
185
1260–77
185
1292
1236 /
I N D E X
184
AD
185
AD
1290–1314 (?)
185
1820
O F
AH
186
/ nineteenth century AH
/ late seventeenth century
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
186
AD AD
N U M B E R
186
217
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No.
Name of Monument
Date
U95
Industrial area in the lower enclosure
thirteenth century
AH
U96
Corbeled façade
twelfth century
/ eighteenth century
U97
Well of the Hawsh
AH
U98
Madrasa of Sidi Shahin
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
AD
186
U99
Tomb of Muhammad Agha
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
AD
187
712 /
Page
AD
AH
/ nineteenth century
186
AD
186
AD
1312
186
U100 alace of Muhammad ‘Ali
AH
U101 Burg al-Zawiya
eighth century (?)
U102 Ottoman sabil-kuttab
twelfth century
U103 Mosque of Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i
AH
1286–1330 /
U104 Tomb of Mustafa Kamil
AH
1376 /
AD
1956
187
U105 Takiyat Mevleviya
AH
1225 /
AD
1810
187–88
U106 Hammam of Shaykhu
AH
756 /
U107 Sabil of Umm ‘Abbas
AH
1284 /
U108 Sabil of Ibrahim Bey al-Wali (?)
twelfth century
U109 Kitchens of Muhammad ‘Ali
AH
1229 /
AD
1814
188
U110 Tomb and zawiya of Sidi Galal al-Assiuti
AH
1211 /
AD
1796
188
1234 /
1827
AD
AD
187
AH
/ fourteenth century (?)
/ eighteenth century
AH AD
187
AD
1869–1911
46, 61, 187
1355
188
1867
AD
U111 Minaret of the mosque of Muhammad al-Burdayni tenth century
/ eighteenth century
AH
AH
188
/ sixteenth century
188
AD
188
AD
U112 Wikala of Hasan Katkhuda
AH
U113 Hammam of Kushqadam
eighth century
U114 Mosque of Kalamtay al-Gamali
AH
U115 Tomb of Ibrahim al-Fawwar
thirteenth century
U116 Mosque of Sayyida Sukayna
AH
U117 Hammam al-Khalifa
thirteenth century
U118 Mosque of Shagarat al-Durr
AH
1335 /
U119 Sabil of Qaytbay
AH
880 /
U120 Wikala, No. 53 Shari‘ Tulun
twelfth century
U121 Hammam, No. 83 Shari‘ Tulun
twelfth century (?)
U122 Tomb of Sidi al-Arbain
thirteenth century (?)
AH
U123 Mosque of Muhammad al-Buktumri
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
U124 Wikala of Hasan Katkhuda al-Bagdali
twelfth century (?)
AH
/ eighteenth century (?)
U125 House of Sakna Basha
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
U126 Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park
AH
U127 Citadel retaining wall
eighth century (?)
218
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
1113 /
1322 /
AD
AD
AD
AD
1410 /
N U M B E R
1701
AD
1233 /
187
AD
AH
188 / fourteenth century
189
AD
1818
189 AH
/ nineteenth century
189
AD
1904
46, 189 AH
/ nineteenth century
37, 189
AD
1916
45, 189
1475
AD
AH
189 / eighteenth century AH
189
AD
/ eighteenth century (?)
190
AD
/ nineteenth century (?)
AD
190 190
AD AD
190 190
AD
1989
190 AH
/ fourteenth century (?)
AD
190
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Name of Monument
Date
Page
U128 Mosque of Muhammad Kishr
twelfth century (?)
U129 Wikala, no. 11, Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah
eleventh century (?)
AH
U130 Zawiya of ‘Abd al-Karim
before
1800
U131 Mosque of Anbar al-Nur
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
AD
191
U132 Church of St. Mark
thirteenth century
AH
/ nineteenth century
AD
191
U133 Muhammad ‘Ali-period palace
before
U134 Mansur Palace
AH
1311 /
AD
1893
191
U135 Mosque of ‘Abbas II Hilmi
AH
1322 /
AD
1904
191
U136 Palace, no. 4, Shari‘ Ibrahim Bey
ca.
AH
AH
AH
1215 /
1267 /
1318 /
I N D E X
AD
AH
AD
AD
/ eighteenth century (?)
190
AD
/ seventeenth century (?)
AD
191
1850
191
1900
O F
B U I L D I N G S
190
191
B Y
N U M B E R
219
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Index of Buildings by Name Numerals in roman typeface (in parentheses for formerly registered monuments; with a U prefix for unregistered monuments, or monuments registered without a number) refer to catalogue number; italicized numerals designate page references to individual monuments as well as urban entities treated in the introduction. Name entries are in most instances listed under the personal name (ism or ‘alam): thus Qalawun, rather than al-Mansur Qalawun al-Alfi. In instances where common usage dictates otherwise, entries are listed under the kunya or laqab (honorific or descriptive epithet).
‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda hawd: (404). See also 260 mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya: (558), pp. 72 mosque of al-Azhar, restorations: 97 mosque of al-Azhar, Barber’s Gate: pp. 37 mosque of al-Hifni: (451), pp. 76 mosque of al-Husayn, restorations: 28 mosque of Sayyida ‘Ayesha: (378), pp. 46 mosque of Sayyida Sukayna: U116, pp. 46 mosque of Shaykh ‘Ali al-Mutahhar: 40
al-‘Abbar, zawiya: 146
mosque and sabil of Shaykh Muhammad al-Ghurayib: 448
‘Abbas Agha
mosque, sabil, and tomb of Shaykh Ramadan: 436
sabil-kuttab: 335
sabil and hawd: 260
wikala and sabil: 396. See also 499
sabils and sabil-kuttabs: 21, pp. 44. See also 196, 260, 436, 448
‘Abbas I (pasha), restorations, in mosque of al-Husayn: 28 ‘Abbas II Hilmi (khedive), mosques: U135, U116, pp. 46, 66. See also 97
zawiya in Shari‘ Magharbellin: 214, pp. 79 ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi, house: 446 ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi, house: 355
‘Abd al-Baqi Khayr al-Din, sabil-kuttab: 194
Ablaq palace 549. See also U88, U95, 503
‘Abd al-Basit (qadi), mosque: 60
Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir (chancellor of Qaytbay), mosque: 49
‘Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari, manzil. See (437)
Abud al-Mana‘ifa (shaykh), wikala and tomb: (453)
‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri, mosque: 184
Abu Ghalya, mosque: (137)
‘Abd al-Hamid Wa’di, house: 364
Abu Hurayra (Hariba), mosque and tomb: 114
‘Abd al-Karim, zawiya: U130
Abu’l Dhahab. See Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab
‘Abd al-Latif al-Qarafi, mosque: 46
Abu’l Ghadanfar, mausoleum and minaret: 3
‘Abdallah (amir), house and sabil-kuttab: 452
Abu’l Iqbal (‘Arifin Bey), sabil-kuttab: 73
‘Abdallah (shaykh), qubba: 413
Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati, zawiya: 477
‘Abdallah al-Ansari (shaykh), tomb: U103
Abu’l Rus, wikala: (434)
‘Abdallah al-Baz (shaykh), zawiya and tomb: U58
Abu’l Yusufayn, mausoleum: 234
‘Abd al-Mu’min Shakrun, house: (493)
Abu Talib (shaykh), mausoleum: (141)
‘Abd al-Qadir, mausoleum of al-Sha‘rani. See 59
Abu Takiya. See Isma‘il Abu Takiya
‘Abd al-Qadir al-Damiri, wikalas. See 179, 597
al-‘Adawi. See Hasan al-Adawi
220
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al-Adil. See U51B, U51C, U51E
‘Ali Pasha Tahir, mosque. See 210
al-Afdal, mihrab, in mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun. See 220
‘Ali al-Rifa‘i, tomb: U103, pp. 46
Aga Khan Trust for Culture, conservation projects: 125, 248,
‘Ali al-Tarrabi, mosque: U70
307, 619, pp. 53
Almas. See Sayf al-Din Ulmas
al-‘Agam, house (takiyat Iraniya): U7
Almalik al-Gukandar, mosque: 24
al-‘Agami. See Badr al-Din al-‘Agami
Alnaq al-Nasiri, palace: 249. See also 248, 307H, 593
Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus, house: (489)
Alti Barmaq, mosque: 126
Ahmad Bey Kohya, mosque: 521
Altunbugha al-Maridani, mosque: 120
Ahmad al-Dardir, mosque: U29
al-Alwa, burg: U51O
Ahmad Effendi Salim, sabil-kuttab: 461
American Research Center in Egypt. See Egyptian Antiquities
Ahmad ibn Sha’ban, zawiya: 103 Ahmad ibn Sulayman, ribat: 245 Ahmad ibn Tulun, mosque: 220, pp. 6, 32, 34, 44, 45, 55. See also 321, 559
Project Amin Effendi, sabil-kuttab. See 23 al-Amir, wikala. See 188 Amna bint Salim, house: 559, pp. 45. See also 321
Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab, mosque: 145
‘Amr, mosque of: pp. 27, 30, 34
Ahmad Katkhuda al-Kharbutli
Anbar al-Nur, mosque: U131
mosque. See 109
al-Ansari. See ‘Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari
wikalat al-Kharbutli: (367)
Anuk, tomb: 44
Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz, house: 235, pp. 35
al-Anwar, mosque. See 15
Ahmad al-Mihmandar, mosque: 115
‘Aqash: ‘sabil ‘Aqash.’ See 236
Ahmad Pasha, sabil-kuttab: U13
Aqbardi (amir), extension to Yashbak palace. See 266
Ahmad Pasha Tahir
Aqbugha (amir), madrasa and tomb. See 97
mosque: 210
Aqueduct: pp. 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 10, 31, 32, 37. See 369, 569, U97
tomb: 565, pp. 76
al-Aqmar, mosque: 33, pp. 52
Ahmad al-Qasid, mausoleum: 10
Aqsunqur, mosque: 123, pp. 34, 61
al-Ahmar, burg: U51I
Aqsunqur al-Fariqani al-Habashli, mosque: 193
Ahmet III, restorations, in mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar: 115
al-Arabi. See ‘Ali ibn al-Arabi
‘Ain al-Gazal, wikala: U15
al-Arbain, zawiya: (353)
al-Akhdar, bab: pp. 64. See 28
Archaeological Garden and Theater: U82
al-Alam, bab: U86
Archives (Dar al-Mahfuzat): 605
‘Ali Abu Shibbak al-Rifa‘i. See U103
Arghun, sabil: 561
‘Ali Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada, sabil-kuttab: 268
Arif Pasha, mosque: U40
‘Ali al-Amri, minaret and mosque: 426
Army barracks: U54
‘Ali al-Baqli, mosque. See 156
Arsenal: U92
‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati: 197
al-‘Asal, wikala: U17
‘Ali al-Burdayni, mosque. See U111
Asanbugha, mosque: 185
‘Ali Effendi Labib, house: 497
al-Ashraf Inal. See Inal
‘Ali al-Gizi, tomb: (277)
al-Ashraf Khalil. See Khalil
‘Ali ibn al-Arabi, mosque: 459
al-Ashraf Sha’ban, sultan: madrasa. See 257.
‘Ali Katkhuda ‘Azaban, sabil-kuttab. See 335
See also Khawand Baraka
‘Ali al-Maghrabi, zawiya: U41
‘Askar, Bab Qadi ‘Askar: (47)
‘Ali al-Mutahhar (shaykh), mosque and sabil-kuttab: 40
Aslam al-Silahdar, mosque: 112
Alin Aq, palace. See 249
‘Atfat Isma‘il Kashif, house: U43
‘Ali Negm, tomb: 359
‘Atfat al-Mawargi, house: (488)
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N A M E
221
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Bab (gates) contd.
‘Atfat al-Zababqi wikala and sabil-kuttab: (491)
al-Khala (al-Qarafa): (551), pp. 62. See also U51S
house: (501)
al-Mabyada: 356
‘Atfat al-Zelahi, house: U57
al-Gabal: U81
Awlad al-Asyad, qubba: 215
al-Gedid: ‘Ayyubid: 307A;
Aydaghmish, hammam. See U38
Muhammad ‘Alid: U85. See also 556
Aydakin al-Bunduqdari, tomb. See 146 Aydumur al-Bahlawan, mosque: 22
al-Ghurayib. See (551)
‘Ayesha al-Suhutiya
al-Ghuri: 56. See also 53
mosque: (558), pp. 72. See also 352
al-Hadid. See 167 (sabil-kuttab Bab al-Hadid)
sabil-kuttab: (506), pp. 62
al-Harat al-Mabyada: 356
al-Ayni, mosque: 102
al-Hasanayn. See 28
Aytmish al-Bagasi
al-Iqbal. See 6, 7
hawd-kuttab: 251
al-‘Izz. See 7
mosque: 250
al-Khala (al-Qarafa): (551), pp. 62. See also U51S
al-‘Azab. See Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab
al-Mabyada: 356
al-‘Azab, bab: 555. See also U92
al-Mitwalli (Bab Zuwayla): 199, pp. 3, 23, 28, 34, 37, 64, 68. ..... See also 190
‘Azaban (Janissaries). See 145, 335, 405, 452, 555, U96 Azbak al-Yusufi, mosque: 211
al-Mudarrag: 556
Azbakiya: pp. 3, 6, 16, 55, 58, 60
al-Nasr: 7, pp. 27, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 56, 72. See also 307B, 352
Azdumur, tomb: 113. See also 255
Qadi ‘Askar: (47)
al-Azhar, mosque: 97, pp. 6, 34, 36, 46, 61, 66
al-Qantara: U8
al-‘Aziz (khalif). See 15
al-Qarafa (Bab Qaytbay): 278. See also (551) (Bab al-Khala) ..... and pp. 62, U51S
Bab (gates)
al-Qulla: U51L
al-Akhdar. pp. 64. See 28
al-Shariya. See 307C
al-Alam: U86
al-Silsila. See 145, U93
al-‘Azab: 555
al-Tawfiq. U10. See also 307D, 614
al-Badistan (al-Ghuri): 53
al-Wada‘a. See 144
al-Bahr: pp. 6
al-Wazir: pp. 37, 56. See 138, 250, 251, 307H
al-Barqiya: 614. See also 352, (551), U10
Zuwayla (al-Mitwalli): 199, pp. 3, 23, 28, 34, 37, 64, 68.
Bayt al-Qadi: 616
See also 190
Darb al-Labbana: 325
Babylon: pp. 3, 6, 14
al-Futuh: 6, pp. 27, 28, 32, 34, 35, 72. See also 307C
Babylon, fortress of: pp. 2, 3, 7, 14, 27, 55
al-Gabal: U81
al-Badistan (al-Ghuri), bab: 53
al-Gedid: ‘Ayyubid: 307A; Muhammad ‘Alid: U85.
Badr al-Din al-‘Agami, mosque. See (39)
.See also 556
Badr al-Gamali
al-Ghurayib. See (551)
gates: 6, 7, 199, U8, U10
al-Ghuri: 56. See also 53
tomb. See (170)
al-Hadid. See 167 (sabil-kuttab Bab al-Hadid)
walls. See 352, U11
al-Harat al-Mabyada: 356
al-Bakri (Ibn al-Bakri), mosque: 18
al-Hasanayn. See 28
Bakr Shurbagi, wikala. See U28
al-Iqbal. See 6, 7
Baktimur (amir). See 116
al-‘Izz. See 7
Baktimur al-Mu’mini (amir), sabil. See 148
222
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N A M E
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al-Balfiya (Balighya), sabil-rab‘: (498). See also 243
Bilbak al-Khazindar, tomb of Fatima. See 25
Balsam Gardens: pp. 2,
Bimaristan
Bambah Qadin, sabil: U107 ‘al-Banat,’ mosque (‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri), 184
of Qalawun: 43, pp. 36 of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 257, pp. 43. See also (137), 326
Barakat Trust, conservation projects: 561
al-Biraqdar, qubba: U94
al-Barqiya, bab. See 614, U10. See also (551)
Bircher House: (504)
Barquq (al-Zahir Barquq, sultan)
Birka
mausoleum of Ragab al-Shirazi: 476
al-Azbakiya: pp. 13, 14, 16, 31, 32, 55, 58
mosque complex: 187
al-Fil: pp. 13, 14, 32, 37, 38, 55, 58
wikala. See (399) Barsbay (al-Ashraf Barsbay, sultan) funerary complex (northern cemetery). See 15, (170) mosque complex (al-Qahira): 175 rab‘. See 198 Bashir Agha al-Gumdar, madrasa: 269
‘Bir Yusuf’: 305, pp. 25, 27. See also U51M ‘Blue Mosque’ (mosque of Aqsunqur): 123, pp. 34, 61 Bohra Isma‘ilis, restoration projects. See 15, 33, (170), pp. 46, 72 Bulaq: pp. 3, 6, 7, 8, 10, 14, 31, 37, 55 Mosque of Abu’l ‘Ila, pp. 37
Bashir Agha Dar Sa‘ada, sabil-kuttabs: 308, 309
al-Bulqini. See ‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini
Bashtak (amir)
al-Bunduqdari. See Aydakin al-Bunduqdari; Baybars al-
hammam: 244
Bunduqdari
khanqah. See U68
al-Burdayni. See Karim al-Din al-Burdayni
mosque. See 34, 205, U69
Burg (defensive towers). See U51 passim
palace: 34. See also (47)
al-Ahmar: U51I
tomb. See 221
al-Alwa: U51O
al-Basit. See ‘Abd al-Basit
aqueduct pumping tower: 369
al-Bayatira, hammam. See U16
al-Haddad: U51C
Baybars al-Bunduqdari (al-Zahir Baybars al-Bunduqdari, sultan)
al-Imam: U51W
Bab al-Qulla: U51L
al-Kirkilyan: U51P
Burg al-Siba‘: U87
al-Maqlab. See 307E
madrasa: 37, pp. 28, 32
al-Matar: U51S
Baybars al-Gashankir (al-Muzaafar Baybars al-Gashankir, sultan)
al-Muballat: U51T
khanqah: 32, pp. 37. See also 16
al-Muqattam: U51M. See also: U51K
mosque of al-Hakim, restorations. See 15
al-Muqusar: U51U
sabil-kuttab in waqf of. See 16
al-Rafraf: U89. See also 549
Baybars al-Khayyat, mausoleum: 191
al-Ramla: U51B
Bayn al-Qasrayn: pp. 28, 37, 61
al-Sahra: U51E
al-Baysari, hammam. See 562
no. 17: U17
Bayt. See Houses; Manzil; Maq‘ad; Palaces; Qa‘a
al-Siba‘: U87
Bayt al-Qadi, gate: 616. See also 51
al-Suffa: U51N
Bazar’a, wikalat Bazar’a: 398
al-Turfa: U51R
al-Bazdar, sabil: 27. See also pp. 64, 66
al-Wustani: U51K
Bedawiya Shahin
al-Zafar: 307A. See also 307B, 307E
sabil-kuttab: 337
al-Zawiya: U101
wikala: 615 al-Belifia (Balfiya), sabil-rab‘: (498). See also 243
Canal. See Khalig al-Masri
Bilal Agha, restoration of khanqah of Shaykhu. See 152, 323
Cathedral of St. Nicholas: U34
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
N A M E
223
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Dhabab, al-Dhahabi. See Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi; Muhammad
Cemeteries. See 66, U80, pp. 6, 19, 56
Bey Abu’l Dhahab; Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi
Centre for Conservation and Preservation of Islamic
Dhulfiqar Katkhuda Mustahfizan
Architectural Heritage, conservation projects: 74 Chapel of the Virgin Mary, Matariya: pp. 2, 25
sabil-kuttab. See 17
Churches
wikala. See 19, pp. 35; see also 591, (371)
Cathedral of St. Nicholas: U34
‘Diwan of Joseph’: pp. 27, 28
Holy Order of St. Francis: U23
‘Diwan of Schools’: U83
of St. Mark: U132
‘Double-Cross Hall’: U91
of the Virgin, Harat al-Rum: 483
al-Dud, hammam: U78
of the Virgin, Harat Zuwayla: 482
al-Dumiati. See ‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati
of the Virgin, Matariya: pp. 2, 3 al-Effendi, hammam: (566)
Cisterns. See also: Sabil-kuttab; Waterworks; Wells
Egyptian Antiquities Project (American Research Center in
in Citadel: 569 in house and sabil al-Kritliya: 321
Egypt), conservation and documentation projects: 116, 199,
in mausoleum of Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar: 303
203, 235, 358, 395, 401, U18, U21, U57
in mosque complex of Sultan Hasan. See 133 in mosque al-Mahmudiya: 135
Fadil, hammam Qadi al-Fadil. See 596; see also Mustafa Fadil Pasha
in mosque of Taghribardi: 209
Fadl Allah, mosque: (186)
in sabil of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 21
al-Fa‘iz (khalif), mashhad of Husayn. See 28
in sabil of Abu’l Iqbal (‘Arifin Bey): 73
al-Fakahani mosque: 109
in sabil of al-Ashraf Barsbay: 175
sabat: (366)
in sabil of al-Ghuri: 67 in sabil of Isma‘il Pasha: 402
al-Fakhri. See ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri
in sabil of Qaytbay: 324
Farag ibn Barquq (al-Nasir Farag): pp. 37. See also 187, 291 zawiya-sabil: 203, pp. 68, 70
in sabil of Tusun Pasha: 401 in sabil of Zayn al-Abidin: 69
Faramangui House: (534)
well of the Hawsh: U97
Faris Aqtai, mausoleum: 370 al-Farrain, wikala. See U77
Citadel: pp. 2, 3, 7, 8, 10, 32, 55, 56, 60
al-Fasi. See ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi Daftarkhana (Dar al-Mahfuzat): 605
Fatima Umm Khawand, zawiya: 58
al-Damiri. See ‘Abd al-Qadir al-Damiri
Fatma al-Nabawiya, tomb: U37
al-Danushari, wikala. See (434)
Fayruz, zawiya: 192
Dar al-Mahfuzat: 605
al-Fawwar. See Ibrahim al-Fawwar
Dar al-Ifta: pp. 53
al-Figl, mosque. See 34
Darb al-Ahmar, ‘hammam Darb al-Ahmar’: U38
al-Firakh, wikala: (399)
Darb al-Asfar, ‘manzil Darb al-Asfar’: (495)
al-Fisqiya, khan: (484)
Darb al-Dalil, ‘wikala or rab‘ Darb al-Dalil’: U50
Fortifications. See Bab; Burg; Walls
Darb al-Labbana, ‘Bab Darb al-Labbana’: 325
Franciscans, Church of the Holy Order of St. Francis: U23
Darb al-Masmat, ‘sabil Darb al-Masmat’: (361)
‘Fruitsellers’ mosque’ (al-Fakahani): 109
al-Dardir, qa‘a: 466
Funduq. See 188, 250, 402. See also Khan; Wikala
Darrasa: pp. 53
Fustat: pp. 4, 55
Dawud Agha, endowment of mosque of al-Khalawati. See (414)
al-Futuh, bab: 6, pp. 27, 28, 32, 34, 35, 72. See also 307, 352
Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Abteilung Kairo (DAIK), conservation projects: 21, 34, 36, 38, 44, 45, 52
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al-Gabal, bab: U81 al-Gabali, hammam: U35
al-Ghamri contd. sabil-kuttab. See (491)
Gaf‘ar. See Mustafa Gaf‘ar
al-Ghanamiya, madrasa: 96, pp. 62. See also U26
Gaf‘ar al-Kabir, wikala. See 433
al-Ghurayib
Gaf‘ar al-Sadiq, zawiya: 554
bab. See (551)
al-Gallaba, wikalat: 425, pp. 37
cemetery. See U25
Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi house: 72 wikala and sabil-kuttab: 411
mosque: pp. 62 al-Ghuri (al-Ashraf Qansuh al-Ghuri, sultan) constructions in Khan al-Khalili: pp. 37
Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar, mosque: 35
gates (bawwabet): 53, 56
al-Gamali Yusuf, mosque: 178
house: 65
al-Gamaliya, hammam: U4. See also 480
Khan al-Khalili: pp. 37
Ganbalat (sultan). See U51S, U51W
mausoleum: 67
Ganem al-Bahlawan, mosque and mausoleum: 129
minaret, 159. See also 97
Ganem al-Sharkasi al-Tagir (amir), mosque: (464)
mosques: 148, 159, 189
Ganibak, mosque: 119
palaces: 66, 322
Gaqmaq (Muhammad Sa‘id Gaqmaq, sultan)
renovation of tower: p. 4, 32. See also 369
mosque: 180. See also 217, (317), U82
restoration of Qaramidan. See 617
restoration of Bab al-Mudarrag. See 556
sabil-kuttab: 67
Gardens and parks
wikala: 54, 64. See also 56
Aga Khan Park: pp. 53
Giza: pp. 3, 10, 14
archaeological garden in Citadel: U82
al-Gizi. See ‘Ali al-Gizi
in Bayt al-Sihaymi: 339
Gulaq, zawiya: 173
of Islamic Museum: U46
al-Gulshani, takiya: 332
around mosque of Sulayman Pasha: 142
al-Gulshaniya, wikala: U14
around mosque of Malika Safiya: 200, 330
al-Guwwaniya, sabil-kuttab. See 14
around mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir: 210
al-Guyushi, mashhad: pp. 46
of sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan: 420 Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park: U126
al-Haddad, burg: U51C
al-Gashankir. See Baybars al-Gashankir
al-Hadid: sabil-kuttab Bab al-Hadid. See 167
Gates. See Bab
Hadim Sulayman Pasha, takiya: 225
Gayer-Anderson Museum. See 321, 559
al-Hagar, khan. See (434)
Gawhar (treasurer of Qaytbay), madrasa and tomb. See 97
al-Hagg. See Abu Ghalya, al-Hagg
Gawhar Agha, house: (443)
Ha‘im Capusi, synagogue: U18
Gawhara Palace: 505. See also U109
al-Hakim (khalif), mosque: 15, pp. 32, 34, 72
al-Gawhari, mosque: 462
Hammam (bathhouse)
Gawhar al-Lala, mosque-madrasa: 134
al-‘Adawi: (567), pp. 64, 66
Gawhar al-Nasiri, tomb: 270
Aydaghmish. See U38
Gawhar al-Siqilli, enclosure walls of al-Qahira. See 6, 7,
Bashtak: 244
15, 352
al-Bayatira. See U16
al-Gazia, bayt: U72
Darb al-Ahmar: U38
al-Gedid, bab: 307A, U85. See also 556
al-Dud: U78
al-Ghamri
al-Effendi: (566)
madrasa: (465), pp. 37
al-Gabali: U35
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Hasan Katkhuda
Hammam (bathhouse) contd. al-Gamaliya: U4. See also 480
sabil-kuttab: 405
Inal: 562
wikala: U112
al-Khalifa: U117, pp. 37
Hasan Katkhuda Abu Shanab, wikala. See 398
Kushqadam: U113
Hasan Katkhuda al-Bagdali, wikala: U124
al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 410
Hasan Katkhuda al-Galfi, mashhad of Husayn. See 28
al-Nahhasin. See U16
Hasan Pasha Rashid, house: U90
Qadi al-Fadil. See 596
Hasan Pasha Tahir, mosque. See 210
Qalawun: U16
Hasan al-Rumi, zawiya: 258
al-Qirabiya: U42
Hasan Sadaqa, tomb: 263. See also U105
al-Saga. See U16
Hasan al-Sha’rawi Katkhuda, mosque (in madrasat al-Kamiliya). See 428
al-Sharaybi: U30 No. 83, Shari‘ Tulun: U121
al-Hatu, waqf of, house: (13)
Shaykhu: U106
Hawd (watering troughs)
al-Sitt. See U117
‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: (404). See also 260
al-Sukayna. See U117
Aytmish al-Bagasi: 251
al-Sukkariya: 596
Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan: 593
al-Tanbali: 564, pp. 35
Kur Abdallah: (421)
al-Hamzawi al-Saghir, wikala. See (424)
in mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi: 211
Hanafi al-Bayda, house: U43
in mosque of Qagmas al-Ishaqi: 114
al-Haramayn, wikala. See 433, (501)
Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab: 62
al-Haramayn, house: pp. 64, 66. See (400)
al-Nasir Muhammad. See 561
Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken, houses in: U64–U67
Qaytbay: 74, 222
al-Harat al-Mabyada, bab: 356
Shaykhu: 144, 323. See also 152
Harat al-Rum, Church of the Virgin: 483
Hawsh (curtain wall of al-Nasir Muhammad). See U81
Harat Salim Pasha, house: U73
hawsh ‘Utay (wikala of Muhsin Ramadan): 499
Harat al-Sha’rani, zawiya: (502)
Hebaysh, waqf of, sabil: 198
Harat Zuwayla, Church of the Virgin: 482
al-Hifni, mosque: (451), pp. 76
Harim Palace: 612. See also: 556, U51F, U51I
Hilmiya: pp. 58
al-Harisi, zawiya: U31
al-Hittu, mosque. See U6
Harraqa Pavilion. See U91
Holy Order of St. Francis, church: U23
al-Harrawi. See ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi
Houses (bayt). See also Manzil; Maq‘ad; Palaces; Qa‘a
Hasan, house and sabil (Darb al-Masmat): (361)
‘Abd al-Hamid Wa’di: 364
Hasan (al-Nasir al-Hasan, sultan)
‘Abdallah (Katkhuda ‘Azaban): 452
mosque complex: 133, pp. 3, 6, 23, 28, 32, 34, 37, 60.
‘Ali Effendi Labib: 497
See also 120, 190 (usurpations)
al-‘Agam (takiyat Iraniya): U7
mosque of al-Hakim, restorations: 15
Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus: (489)
Hasan ‘Abd al-Latif, house: (375)
Amna bint Salim: 559, pp. 45
Hasan al-‘Adawi
‘Atfat al-Zelahi (Bayt Sukkar): U57
hammam: (567), pp. 64, 66
Bircher House: (504)
tomb. See 24
Faramangui House: (534)
Hasan Agha Arzingan, sabil: 420, pp. 76
Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi: 72
Hasan Agha Koklian, sabil-kuttab: 243. See also (498)
Gawhar Agha: (443)
al-Hasanayn, bab. See 28
Gayer-Anderson. See 321, 559
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Houses (bayt) contd.
Houses (bayt) contd.
al-Gazia: U72
Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali: U63
al-Ghuri (waqf of Sa‘id Pasha): 65
Shari‘ al-Qirabiya: U48
Hanafi al-Bayda: U43
Shari‘ al-Ruqbiya: (469)
al-Haramayn: (400), pp. 64, 66
Zaynab Khatun: pp. 62
in Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken: U64–U67
al-Hunud, zawiya. See 237
in Harat Salim Pasha: U73
Husam al-Din al-Turuntay, mausoleum: 590. See also (186)
al-Harrawi: 446
al-Husayn, mosque. See 28
Hasan ‘Abd al-Latif: (375)
Husayn (amir): mosque and tomb: 233
Hasan Pasha Rashid: U90
Husayn Katkhuda al-Izmirli, sabil-kuttab. See 23
al-Kashif: (500), pp. 32
Husayn al-Shu’aybi, sabil-kuttab: 588
al-Khorazati: U3
Husayniya: pp. 3, 6, 55
Khusraw Pasha: (514) al-Kritliya: 321, pp. 44
Ibn ‘Ain al-Gazal, Yusuf, wikala: U15
Mahmud Sudan: (501)
Ibn ‘Ali, Sahib Safi al-Din ‘Abdallah, madrasa: 178
Mithqal al-Suduni: 77
Ibn ‘Aqab, Yahya, mosque: (485)
al-Mufti: pp. 38, 76
Ibn al-Arabi, ‘Ali, mosque: 459
Munib al-Alayli: (368), pp. 68
Ibn al-Bakri, mosque: 18
Mustafa Gaf‘ar: 471
Ibn Bardbak, Taqtabay, mosque: 25
al-Qadi: 51 See also 616
Ibn Barquq, Farag (al-Nasir Farag), zawiya-sabil: 203, pp. 68, 70
Qaytbay: 228, (518)
Ibn Ghanam, Shakir, palace. See 96
al-Razzaz: 235, pp. 35
Ibn Ghurab, Sa‘ad al-Din, khanqah: 312
Sakna Pasha: U125
Ibn Hayz‘, al-Sayyid ‘Ali, sabil-kuttab, 23
Shaykh Sayim: (437), pp. 62
Ibn Muzhir, Abu Bakr, mosque: 49
(Shaykh al-Qayati): (368), pp. 68
Ibn Qalawun, al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun (sultan). See
al-Sihaymi: 339, pp. 76
al-Nasir Muhammad
Sitt Wasila‘: 445
Ibn Raslan al-Bulqini, ‘Umar, mosque: (481)
Sukkar. See U57
Ibn Sha’ban, Ahmad, zawiya: 103
al-Tablawi. See 339
Ibn Souwaydan, Muhammad, palace: (336)
‘Umar Agha: U59
Ibn Sulayman, Ahmad, ribat: 245
waqf of al-‘Abbar (al-Sitt Manwar): (439)
Ibn Trak, ‘Umar, wikala: U19
waqf of Banush Bey: (504)
Ibn Tulun, Ahmad. See Ahmad ibn Tulun.
waqf of Ibrahim Agha: (457), (595), 613, 619
Ibrahim Agha, wikala. See (491)
waqf of al-Hatu: (13)
Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan
waqf of al-Magharba (‘Atfat al-Mawargi): (488)
hawd: 593
waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri: 609
houses: (457), (595), 613, 619
waqf of al-Mulla: 541
mosque of Aqsunqur, restorations. See 123
waqf of Mustafa Sinan: 545
sabil: 238
waqf of al-Safti: (486)
tomb. See 123, 586
waqf of Zaynab Khatun: 77, pp. 62
Ibrahim Bey al-Kabir, sabil-kuttab. See 331
Shari‘ al-Dardir: (486), (487)
Ibrahim Bey al-Wali, sabil: U108
Shari‘ Hammam Bashtak: U60
Ibrahim al-Fawwar, tomb: U115
Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiya: U20
Ibrahim al-Giza, tomb: U52
Shari‘ al-Mahgar: U56
Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan, sabil-kuttab: 331
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Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian, tomb: 586
Katkhuda ‘Azaban, house. See 452
Ibrahim Khulussi, sabil: 226
al-Khala (al-Qarafa), bab: (551), pp. 62. See also 614
Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan, sabil, 363
Khalawati (Sufi order)
Ilgay al-Yusufi, mosque-madrasa: 131
mosques: 377, (414), (552), U29
Ilmas. See Sayf al-Din Ulmas
takiya: 332
al-Imam, burg: U51W
wikala: U79
Imbaba: pp. 14
al-Khalifa, hammam: U117, pp. 37 Khalig al-Masri (Shari‘ Bur Sa‘id): pp. 3, 6, 8, 10, 13, 16, 27, 32,
Inal (al-Ashraf Inal, sultan) hammam: 562
35, 43, 55, 56, 58, 64, 76. See also 141, 181, 182, 184, 196,
ribat. See 61
(317), (414) (451), U36 Khalig al-Nasiri: pp. 6, 55
wikala. See (422) Inal al-Yusufi (Inal al-Atabaki), mosque: 118, pp. 37
Khalil (amir), sabil: 376
Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale du Caire (IFAO),
Khalil (al-Ashraf Khalil, sultan)
conservation projects: 446. See also 77, 96, 445
al-Ashrafiya (qa‘a): U88
al-Iqbal, bab. See 7
Burg al-Rafraf: U89
Iraniya, ‘takiyat Iraniya’: U7
mausoleum. See 43
Islamic Museum: U46, pp. 43. See also 15
Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui, sabil-kuttab: 71
Isma‘il (khedive)
Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi, tomb: U2 Khan. See also Funduq; Wikala
Bab al-Alam, restorations. See U86 Bab al-‘Azab, restorations. See 555
al-Fisqiya: (484)
house of Sakna Pasha: U125
al-Hagar. See (434)
Isma‘iliya: pp. 19
al-Khalili: pp. 37. See 53, 56
mosque of al-Husayn, restorations. See 28
al-Khaysh. See 591
mosque of Ragab Agha, restorations. See U47
al-Nahhas. See 54
al-Musafirkhana. See 20
Sa‘id: (458) al-Zarakisha: 351, pp. 64, 66
Taz Palace, restorations. See 267 Isma‘il Abu Takiya, wikalas: 179, 597
Khanqah. See also Zawiya
Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi), sabil: 57, pp. 64, 66
‘Abdallah al-Baz. See U58
Isma‘il Pasha (son of Muhammad ‘Ali), sabil: 402
Barquq: 187
Isma‘il al-Sha’rani, mosque: U12
Bashtak. See U68
Iwan al-Kabir. See U88
Baybars al-Gashankir: 32, pp. 37. See also 16
Izz al-Din Ibrahim, hammam: U35
al-Bunduqdari. See 146 Farag ibn Barquq in cemetery: pp. 34
al-Kabir. See Ibrahim Bey al-Kabir
in complex of Nizam al-Din: 140
al-Kabir. Iwan. See U88
in complex of Sultan Hasan: 133
al-Kabira, wikala al-Mulla al-Kabira: U5
Qawsun: 290, 291
Kafur al-Zimam, mosque: 107
Sa‘ad al-Din ibn Ghurab: 312
Kalamtay al-Gamali, mosque: U114
Salah al-Din. See 480
al-Kamil (al-Malik al-Kamil, sultan)
Shaykhu: 152
fortifications: U51 passim
Tarabay al-Sharifi. See 255
madrasat al-Kamiliya: 428
al-Kharbutli. See Ahmad Katkhuda al-Kharbutli; Sulayman Bey
Karaite synagogue: U22
al-Kharbutli
Karim al-Din Burdayni, mosque: 201
al-Kharbutli, wikala: (367)
al-Kashif, house: (500), pp. 32
al-Khatib: wikala. See 597
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Khawand Baraka, madrasa: 125 Khawand Zaynab, ribat: 61 Khayrbak (amir), mosque: 248, pp. 34
Madrasa contd. Hasan (sultan): 133; pp. 3, 6, 23, 28, 32, 34, 37, 60. See also 120, 190 (usurpations)
al-Khaysh, khan. See 591
al-Kamiliya: 428
al-Khorazati, house: U3. See 339
al-Nasir Muhammad: 44
al-Khudayri, mosque: (552)
Qarasunqur: 31
Khushyar (mother of Khedive Isma‘il). See U103
Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi: 242
Khusraw Pasha
al-Sahibiya: 178
house: (514)
Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38, pp. 64
sabil-kuttab: 52
Sha’ban. See 257
al-Kihiya, wikala. See 398
Sidi Shahin: U98
al-Kirdani, sabil-kuttab: 179
Taybars (amir). See 97
al-Kirkilyan, burg: U51P
Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban (Khawand Baraka): 125
Kitchens. See 351, U84, U109
al-Maghrabi (‘Ali al-Maghrabi), zawiya: U41
al-Komi, qubba: 256
al-Maghrabi, wikala. See 397
Kosa Sinan, sabil: 507
al-Mahgar. See U71
al-Kritliya, house and sabil: 321, pp. 44. See also 559
Mahmud I (Ottoman sultan), takiya and sabil-kuttab: 308, pp. 35
al-Kubra, wikala. See 179
al-Mahmudiya, mosque: 135
Kulsun, sabil. 311. See also U79
Mahmud al-Kurdi, mosque-madrasa: 117
Kur ‘Abdallah, sabil, hawd, and manzil: (421)
Mahmud al-Maqtul, mosque (al-Mahmudiya): 135
al-Kurdi. See Mahmud al-Kurdi
Mahmud Muharram
Kushqadam, hammam: U113
mosque: 30
Kushqadam al-Ahmadi, mosque: 153
palace (al-Musafirkhana): 20 Mahmud Sudan, house: (501)
Labib. See ‘Ali Effendi Labib
Maimondes (Moses Maimonides), synagogue: U21
Lagin (al-Mansur Lagin), mihrab, fountain, and minaret, in
al-Malatyali, hammam 592. See also (490)
mosque of Ibn Tulun. See 220
al-Malik. See Almalik al-Gukandar
Lagin al-Sa‘ifi, mosque. See 217
Malika Safiya, mosque: 200. See also 330
al-Lawand, wikala: (403)
Mamay al-Sa‘ifi, maq‘ad: 51. See also 616 al-Ma’mun al-Bata‘ihi, mosque of al-Aqmar: 33, pp. 52
Madrasa. See also Mosque
al-Manawi
Aqbugha (amir). See 97
house: (334)
al-Ayni: 102
sabil and wikala: (496)
Badr al-Din al-‘Agami. See (39)
Mangak al-Silahdar. See Mangak al-Yusufi
Barquq: 187
Mangak al-Yusufi
Bashir Agha al-Gumdar: 269 Baybars: 37, pp. 28 Cruciform: 18, 24, 35, 38, 44, 45, 49, 59, 60, 107, 114, 125, 131, 175, 187, 189, 206, 211, 218 Gawhar. See 97
mosque: 138. See also 327 palace. See 247 Mansur Palace: U134 al-Mansur Qalawun. See Qalawun Manzil. See also Houses; Maq‘ad; Palaces; Qa‘a
al-Ghamri: (465), pp. 37
‘Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari. See (437)
al-Ghanamiya: 96, pp. 62
Kur ‘Abdallah. See (421)
al-Gukandar: 24
al-Margush (al-Malatyali): (490), 592 al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya: 463
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Mevleviya, takiya: U105
Manzil contd. ‘Uthman ‘Amara (Zaynab Umm Ahmad): (470)
al-Mihmandar. See Ahmad al-Mihmandar
in waqf al-Haramayn: (400), pp. 64, 66
al-Mihmandariya
in waqf of Bashir Agha: (495)
mosque. See 42
in waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan: (435)
wikala: U24 Minarets (separately registered or listed)
Zaynab Umm Ahmad (‘Uthman ‘Amara): (470)
Abu’l Ghadanfar: 3
Maq‘ad. See also Houses; Manzil; Palaces; Qa‘a Bayt al-Gazia: U72
‘Ali al-Amri: 426
Bayt al-Qadi: 51
al-Baqli: 156
Bayt al-Razzaz: 235
Bashtak: 205
Faramangui House: (534)
Gaqmaq: (317). See also U82
al-Ghuri: 66. See also 65
al-Ghanamiya: U26
in house of al-Kritliya: 321
al-Ghuri: 159
in house of Khusraw Pasha: (514)
al-Hunud: 237
in house of al-Manawi: (334)
al-Husayn: 28
in house of Qaytbay: 228
Mughalbay Taz: 207
in house in the waqf of al-‘Abbar: (439)
Muhammad al-Burdayni: U111
in house in the waqf of al-Mulla: 541
Qanibay al-Sharkasi: 154 Qawsun: 290, pp. 37
in house in the waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri: 609 Mamay al-Sa‘ifi (Bayt al-Qadi): 51
al-Sultaniya: 288
Ottoman: U32, U45
Mint: 606
in palace of the amir Taz: 267
Mission de Sauvegarde des Monuments du Caire Islamique. See Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale du Caire
in palace of Muhammad ibn Souwaydan: (336) in palace of Radwan Bey: 208
Mithqal (al-Amir Mithqal), mosque: 45
of Qaytbay: (440). See also 228
Mithqal al-Suduni, house: 77
Shari‘ al-Ganibakiya: U49
al-Mitwalli, bab. See 199
al-Mar’a (Fatima Shaqra), mosque: 195
al-Modani (Safi al-Din Gawhar, Gawhar al-Nasiri), tomb of. See 270
al-Marghani
Moses Maimonides, synagogue: U21 Mosques and mosque complexes. See also Khanqah, Madrasa,
takiya. See 327, U55
Minarets, Zawiya, and under founders’ names
tomb: U55 al-Margush, manzil and hammam: (490)
‘Abbas II Hilmi: U135
al-Maridani. See Altunbugha al-Maridani
‘Abd al-Basit: 60
Maristan. See Bimaristan
‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri: 184
Mashhad. See also Qubba; Tombs and mausolea
‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda. See U116
of al-Husayn. See 28
Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir: 49
of Sayyid Mu’ad (Sidi Ma‘az). See 3
Abu’l Ghadanfar. See 3
Marzuq al-Ahmadi, mosque: 29
al-‘Agami. See (39)
Matariya: pp. 6, 7, 23
Ahmad al-Mihmandar: 115
Balsam Gardens: pp. 2
Ahmad Bey Kohya: 521
Chapel of the Virgin: pp. 2, 25
Ahmad al-Dardir: U29
obelisk: pp. 7, 25, 26, 28
Ahmad ibn Tulun: 220. See also pp. 6, 32, 34, 44, 45, 55
Mausolea. See Mashhad; Qubba; Tombs and mausolea
Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab: 145
Messih Pasha, mosque: 160
Ahmad Katkhuda al-Kharbutli: 109
Mevlevi order, ceremonial structures. See 263, U105
‘Ali ibn al-Arabi: 459
230
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Mosques and mosque complexes contd.
Mosques and mosque complexes contd.
‘Ali al-Mutahhar (shaykh): 40
al-Gawhari: 462
‘Ali al-Tarrabi: U70
al-Ghamri: (465), pp. 37
Almalik al-Gukandar: 24
al-Ghanamiya: 96, pp. 62. See also U26
Alti Barmaq: 126
al-Ghurayib: 448, pp. 62. See also (551)
Altunbugha al-Maridani: 120
al-Ghuri: 148, 159, 189
al-Amir Mithqal: 45
al-Gukandar (Almalik al-Gukandar): 24
Anbar al-Nur: U131
al-Hagg Abu Ghalya: (137), pp. 43
al-Aqmar: 33, pp. 52
al-Hakim: 15, pp. 32, 34, 72
Aqsunqur (Blue Mosque): 123, pp. 34, 61
Hasan (Sultan al-Nasir): 133, pp. 3, 6, 23, 28, 32, 34, 37, 60.
Aqsunqur al-Fariqani al-Habashli: 193
.....See also 120, 190 (usurpations)
Arif Pasha: U40
Hasan Pasha Tahir. See 210
Asanbugha: 185
Hasan al-Sha’rawi Katkhuda. See 428
Aslam al-Silahdar: 112
al-Hifni: (451), pp. 76
Aydumur al-Bahlawan: 22
al-Hittu: U6
‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya: (558), pp. 72. See also 352
al-Husayn. See 28, pp. 61, 66
al-Ayni, mosque: 102
Husayn (amir): 233
Aytmish al-Bagasi: 250
Ibn al-Bakri: 18
Azbak al-Yusufi: 211
Ibn Tulun (Ahmad ibn Tulun): 220, pp. 6, 32, 34, 44, 45, 55
al-Azhar: 97, pp. 6, 34, 36, 46, 61, 66
Ilgay al-Yusufi: 131
Badr al-Din al-‘Agami: (39)
Inal al-Atabaki (al-Yusufi): 118, pp. 37
al-Bakri (Ibn al-Bakri): 18
Isma‘il al-Sha’rani: U12
‘al-Banat’ (‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri): 181
Kafur al-Zimam: 107
Bardbak (Taqtabay ibn Bardbak): 25
Kalamtay al-Gamali: U114
Barquq: 187
al-Kamiliya (al-Malik al-Kamil): 428
Barsbay: 175
Karim al-Din Burdayni: 201
Bashir Agha al-Gumdar: 269
Khawand Baraka: 125
Bashtak: 34, 205, U69
Khayrbak: 248, pp. 34
Baybars, al-Zahir, sultan: 37. See also pp. 28, 32
al-Khudayri: (552)
al-Bazdar. See 27
al-Kurdi. See (417)
‘Blue Mosque’ (mosque of Aqsunqur): 123
Kushqadam al-Ahmadi: 153
al-Bulqini (‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini): (481)
Lagin al-Sa‘ifi. See 217
al-Burdayni: 201
Mahmud al-Kurdi: 117
al-Fakahani:109
Mahmud Muharram: 30
Fatima Shaqra (al-Mar’a): 195
al-Mahmudiya: 135
al-Figl. See 34
Malika Safiya: 200. See also 330
Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar: 35
Mangak al-Yusufi: 138. See also 327
al-Gamali Yusuf: 178
al-Mar’a (Fatima Shaqra): 195
Ganem al-Bahlawan: 129
al-Maridani (Altunbugha al-Maridani): 120. See also 123
Ganem al-Sharkasi al-Tagir: (464)
Marzuq al-Ahmadi: 29
Ganibak: 119
Messih Pasha: 160
Gaqmaq: 180. See also 217, (317), U82
Mihmandar: 115
Gawhar (eunuch). See 97
al-Mihmandariya. See 42
Gawhar al-Lala: 134
Mithqal (al-Amir Mithqal): 45
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Mosques and mosque complexes contd.
Mosques and mosque complexes contd. al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 190, pp. 34, 37, 46, 52. See also 199
Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38. See also 28
Mughalbay Taz. See 207
al-Salih Tala’i‘: 116, pp. 68
Mughaltay al-Gamali: 26
Sangar al-Gawli: 221
Muhammad al-‘Abbasi: (39)
Sarghatmish: 218, pp. 44
Muhammad Abu’l Fadl: (186)
Sayf al-Din Ulmas: 130
Muhammad ‘Ali (ruler): 503
Sayyida ‘Ayesha: (378), pp. 46
Muhammad ‘Ali Pasha (governor): 377
Sayyida Sukayna: U116, pp. 46
Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab: 98. See also 62
Sha’ban (al-Ashraf Sha’ban, sultan). See 257
Muhammad al-Buktumri: U123
Shagarat al-Durr: U118, pp. 45
Muhammad al-Burdayni. See U111
Shams al-Din al-Ramli: U9
Muhammad al-Ghurayib (shaykh): 448, pp. 62
Shams al-Din Shakir. See 18
Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan: 193
Sharaf al-Din (qadi): 176
Muhammad Kishr: U128
al-Sha’rani (shaykh): 59
Muhammad Sa‘id Gaqmaq: 180
Shaykhu (amir): 147
Muhib al-Din Abu’l Tayyib: 48
al-Shuhada: U6
Muqbil al-Dawudi: 177
Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i: U103, pp. 46, 61
Murad Pasha: 181
Sidi Shahin: U98
Muski, Shari‘ al-Muski (al-Sikkat al-Gedida): pp. 61
al-Silahdar: 382, pp. 84
Mustafa Bey Tabtabay: 272
Sinan: pp. 31, 32
Mustafa Fadil Pasha: U69
Sudun Min Zada: 127. See also U82
al-Nasir al-Din Muhammad. See (39)
al-Sukkari: (137), pp. 43. See also 257
al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun (sultan). See 44,
Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 382, pp. 84 Sulayman Pasha: 142. See also U51W
143,.U51M, U84 Nizam al-Din: 140
al-Sultaniya. See 288
al-Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din: 204
Taghribardi (al-Mihmandariya): 42
Qagmas al-Ishaqi: 114
Taghribardi al-Buklumushi (amir): 209
Qalawun (al-Mansur Qalawun al-Alfi): 43, pp. 28, 34, 36
Taqtabay ibn Bardbak: 25
Qanibay al-Sharkasi. See 154
Tatar al-Hegaziya: 36
Qanibay al-Muhammadi: 151
Taybars (amir). See 97
Qanibay al-Sayfi (Amir Akhur): 136
‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini: (481)
Qansuh al-Ghuri: 148, 159, 189
Umm al-Ghulam. See 25
Qaramidan: pp. 30, 38
Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban (Khawand Baraka): 125
Qaraqoga al-Hasani: 206
‘Uthman Agha: 200
Qawsun (amir): 202, pp. 46, 60. See also 224, 290, U62
Yahya ibn ‘Aqab: (485)
Qaytbay (al-Ashraf Qaytbay, sultan): 223
Yahya Zayn al-Din (qadi): 182, pp. 76
Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi: 242
Yusuf Agha al-Hin: 196, pp. 43
Ragab Agha: U47
Yusuf al-Kurdi. See 213
Ramadan (shaykh): 436
al-Zafir (khalif). See 109
al-Rifa‘i (Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i): U103, pp. 46, 61
Mousi, tomb of. See 139
al-Sahibiya, madrasa: 178
al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh
Sa‘id Pasha (son of Muhammad ‘Ali). See 503
bimaristan: 257, pp. 43. See also (137), 326
Sa‘id al-Su‘ada, mosque: 480. See also U4
hammam: 410
Salar and Sangar: 221
mosque: 190, pp. 34, 37, 46, 52. See also 199
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al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh contd. waqf properties. See 19 zawiya-sabil. See 145. See also 326 al-Muballat, burg: U51T al-Mudarrag, bab: 556. See also 605
Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan contd. sabil-kuttab: 150. See also 230 Muhammad Kishr, mosque: U128 Muhammad al-Mahruqi, house: 459 Muhammad Mustafa al-Muhasibgi, sabil-kuttab: 329
Mughalbay Taz, mosque. See 207
Muhammad Sai‘d Gaqmaq. See Gaqmaq.
Mughaltay al-Gamali, mosque: 26
Muhammad al-Salawi. See (487)
Muhammad (amir), sabil-kuttab: 14
al-Muhammadayn, wikalat: 579. See also 179
Muhammad al-‘Abbasi, madrasa. See (39)
Muhib al-Din Abu’l Tayyib, mosque: 48
Muhammad Abu’l Fadl, mosque: (186)
Muhib al-Din al-Muwaqqi, qa‘a: 50
Muhammad Agha, tomb of: U99
Muhsin Ramadan, wikala: 499
Muhammad ‘Ali (ruler)
Mu‘izz, Shari‘: 34, 175, U129, pp. 19
Archives (Dar al-Mahfuzhat): 605
al-Mulla al-Kabira, wikala: U5
Arsenal: U92
Munib al-Alayli, house: (368), pp. 68
Bab al-Alam: U86
al-Muqati’gui (Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui), sabil-kuttab: 71
Bab al-Gedid: U85
al-Muqattam, burg: U51M. See also U51K
Barracks: U54
Muqattam Hills: pp. 3, 6, 8, 10, 27, 52
Citadel walls: U81. See also U51 passim
Muqbil al-Dawudi, mosque: 177
Diwan of schools: U83
al-Muqusar, burg: U51U
Gawhara Palace: 505
Murad Pasha, mosque: 181
Harim Palace: 612, See also U51F
al-Musafirkhana, palace: 20
Mint: 606
Murshid (shaykh), zawiya and sabil-kuttab: (374)
mosque: 503
Musée de l’art arabe (Islamic Museum): U46, pp. 43. See also 15
palaces (unnamed): U100, U109. See also U133
Museums
sabils: 401, 402
Coptic Museum: pp. 52
tower, in Citadel enclosure: U51G
Gayer-Anderson Museum. See 321, 559
Muhammad ‘Ali Pasha (governor), mosque: 377 Muhammad al-Anwar, tomb: 68 al-Muhammadayn, wikalat: (597). See also (500) Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab
Islamic Museum (Musée de l’art arabe): U46, pp. 43. See also 15 ‘Museum of Stolen Things.’ See U54 Mustafa Kamil. See U104
hawd and sabil: 62
National Military Museum. See 612
mosque: 98
Police Museum. See U86
takiya. See 98, U27 wikala. See 351
Royal Carriage Museum. See U54 Mustafa (amir), named, in Bayt al-Gazia: U72
Muhammad al-Buktumri, mosque: U123
Mustafa Bey Tabtabay, wikala and sabil: 272
Muhammad al-Burdayni, mosque. See U111
Mustafa Fadil Pasha, mosque: U69
Muhammad Durgham, zawiya: 241
Mustafa Gaf‘ar, house: 471. See also 339, U3
Muhammad al-Ghurayib, mosque and sabil: 448, pp. 62
Mustafa Kamil, tomb: U104
Muhammad ibn Souwaydan, palace: (336)
Mustafa Musali Shurbagi, sabil: 232
Muhammad al-Ka‘aki, tomb: U80
Mustafa Pasha (governor), zawiya: 155
Muhammad Katkhuda, sabil-kuttab: 17
Mustafa Shurbagi Mustahfizan, sabil-kuttab: 553
Muhammad Katkhuda al-Dawudli, sabil-kuttab: (427)
Mustafa Sinan
Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan mosque: 193
house: 545 sabil: 246
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Palaces contd.
Mustafa Sinan contd.
al-Ghuri. See 66, 322. See also 64, 65, 189
wikala: U74
Harim Palace: 612
al-Muzaffar, ‘Alam al-Din Sangar, qubba: 261
Mangak al-Silahdar. See 247 Muhammad ‘Ali: 505, 612, U100. See also U109
Nafisa al-Bayda hammam. See 596
Muhammad ‘Ali-period, in Citadel: U133
sabil: 358
Muhammad ibn Souwaydan: (336)
wikala: 395
al-Musafirkhana: 20. See also 30
al-Nahhasin, hammam: U16
al-Nasir Muhammad (Ablaq Palace): 549. See also 503, U95
al-Nahhas, Khan. See 54
Qawsun (amir). See 266
al-Naqadi, sabil and wikala: 397
Radwan Bey: 208, pp. 68, 70
al-Nasharin, wikala: (422)
al-Razzaz: 235, pp. 35
al-Nasir al-Din Muhammad, mosque-madrasa. See (39)
Sa‘id al-Su‘ada: See 480
al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun (sultan)
Shakir ibn Ghanam. See 96
Burg al-Rafraf, modifications: U89
Shari‘ Ibrahim Bey: U136
cistern 569. See also U97
Tashtamur al-‘Ala’i. See 153
inscription, at Bab al-Mudarrag. See 556
Taz (amir): 267 Yashbak min Mahdi: 266. See also U105
iwan al-Kabir. See U88 madrasa: 44
Police Museum: U86
mosque. See 44, 143, U51M, U84
Pyramids: pp. 3, 23, 26
palace: 549 Qa‘a. See also Houses; Manzil; Maq‘ad; Palaces
Qaramidan: 617 sabil: 561
al-Ashrafiya: U88
sahrig: 569
in Bashtak Palace: 34
tomb. See 43
Baybars. See 50
tower. See 369
in Bayt al-Gazia: U72
walls: U81, U127
in Bayt al-Harrawi: 446
al-Nasr, bab: 7, pp. 27, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 56, 72.
in Bayt al-Razzaz: 235
See also 307B, 352,
al-Dardir: 466
National Military Museum: 612
in house of al-‘Abbar: (439)
Negm al-Din Ayyub (sultan). See Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub
in house of ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi: 355
Nilometer: pp. 6, 7, 23, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 35, 37
in house of Amna bint Salim: 559
Nizam al-Din, khanqah: 140
in house of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi: 72
Nur al-Din (qadi): restoration of zawiyat Gulaq. See 173
in house of Hanafi al-Bayda: U43 in house of al-Kritliya: 321
Old Cairo: pp. 3, 10, 14, 19
in house of Khusraw Pasha: (514)
Onsi, tomb of. See 139
in house of Mustafa Gaf‘ar: 471 in house of Qaytbay: 228
Palaces. See also Houses; Maq‘ad; Qa‘a
in house of al-Sha’rani: 63
Ablaq Palace: 549. See also 503, U95
in house of Sitt Wasila‘: 445
Alnaq al-Nasiri (Alin Aq): 249
in house of Ibrahim Agha: 619
Bashtak: 34
in house of Mahmud al-Shabsiri: 609
Eastern Palace (Fatimid, in Bayn al-Qasrayn). See 34, 38, (47)
in house of Zaynab Khatun: 77
Gawhara Palace: 505
in madrasat al-Ghanamiya: 96, pp. 62
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Qa‘a contd.
Qasaba: pp. 6, 56, 70
in manzil al-Haramayn: (400)
Qasr. See Houses; Palaces
in manzil al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya: 463
Qawsun (amir)
in manzil of ‘Uthman ‘Amara and Zaynab Umm Ahmad: (470)
khanqah: 290
in mosque of al-Ayni: 102
mausoleum: 291
in mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi: 250
mosques: 202, pp. 46, 60. See also 224, 290, U62
in mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi. See 211
palace. See 266
in mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi: 153
wikala: 11, pp. 76
in mosque of Qadi Sharaf al-Din: 176
al-Qayati (shaykh), house: (368), pp. 68
in mosque of Ahmad Bey Kohya: 521
Qaytbay (al-Ashraf Qaytbay, sultan)
in palace of Alnaq: 249
bab: 278
in palace of Muhammad ibn Souwaydan: (336)
funerary complex in cemetery: pp. 34, 37
in palace of Radwan Bey. See 208
hawd: 74, 222
in palace of Taz: 267
houses: 228, (518)
Muhibb al-Din al-Muwaqqi (‘Uthman Katkhuda): 50
maq‘ad: (440)
in sabil and tomb of ‘Umar Agha: 240
mosque: 223
of Shaykhu. See 152, 323
rab‘: (518)
Qadi ‘Askar, bab: (47)
restoration of Bab al-Mudarrag. See 556
Qadi al-Fadil, hammam. See 596
restoration of mosque of al-Azhar. See 97
al-Qadir. See ‘Abd al-Qadir al-Damiri
sabils, and sabil-kuttabs: 76, 324, U119
Qadiriya order. See 237
wikalas: 9, 75, U77, pp. 35
al-Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din
al-Qimari, qubba: 128
mosque and ribat, 204
al-Qirabiya, hammam: U42
Qagmas al-Ishaqi, mosque: 114
Qitas Bey, sabil-kuttab: 16
al-Qahira: pp. 3, 7, 55
al-Qizlar, sabil-kuttab and rab‘: 265
Qalat al-Kabsh: pp. 37
Quarry: U71
Qalawun (al-Mansur Qalawun al-Alfi)
Qubba
hammam. See U16
‘Abdallah (shaykh): 413
mosque complex: 43, pp. 28, 34, 36
Awlad al-Asyad: 215
Qanibay al-Muhammadi, mosque: 151
of Barsbay. See 198
Qanibay al-Sayfi (Amir Akhur), mosque complex, 136
al-Biraqdar: U94
Qanibay al-Sharkasi, minaret: 154
al-Komi: 256
Qansuh Abu Sa‘id, mausoleum: 360
al-Muzaffar ‘Alam al-Din Sangar: 261
Qansuh al-Ghuri. See al-Ghuri
al-Qimari: 128
al-Qantara, bab: U8. See also 352
Su‘ud (shaykh): 510
Qaracholi House. See (440)
al-Qulla, bab: U51L
al-Qarafa, Bab al-Qarafa: 278. See also (551) (Bab al-Khala
Qurqumas, mausoleum: (170), pp. 37, 72. See also 15
al-Qarafa) and pp. 62; U51S al-Qarafi (‘Abd al-Latif al-Qarafi), mosque: 46
al-Qutn, wikala. See 9, 54 Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi, madrasa: 242
Qaramidan. See 617, pp. 30, 38 Qara Muhammad ‘Ali, mosque: 377
Rab’
Qaraqoga al-Hasani, mosque: 206
Aytmish al-Bagasi. See 250, 251
Qarasunqur, mausoleum: 31
al-Balfiya (Belifia): (498). See also 243
al-Qarratin, bab. See 307G
of Barsbay. See 198
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Sa‘ad al-Din ibn Ghurab, khanqah: 312
Rab’ contd. Darb al-Dalil: U50
Sa‘ad al-Din Ibrahim al-Arabi, zawiya. See 312
Hasan Agha Koklian: 243
Sa‘ad Zaghloul, tomb: pp. 52
in house, Shari‘ al-Khiyamiya: 407
‘Saba Salatin.’ See U71
in house, waqf of Ibrahim Agha: 613
Sabat in the waqf of al-Fakahani: (366)
manzil, waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan: (435)
Sabils, sabil-kuttabs. See also Cisterns, Hawd, Waterworks, Wells
in mosque complex of Ahmad al-Mihmandar. See 115
‘Abbas Agha: 335
in mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi. See 250
‘Abd al-Baqi Khayr al-Din: 194
in mosque of Ulmas. See 130
‘Ali Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: 268
of Qaytbay: (518)
‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati: 197
al-Qizlar: 265
‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 21 and pp. 44, 40, 196, 260, 436; (558) and pp. 72
and sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan: 238 and sabil, in waqf of Hebaysh: 198
Abu’l Iqbal ‘Arifin Bey: 73
of Shaykh Murshid: (374)
Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus: (489)
in Suq al-Silah: U75, U76
Ahmad Effendi Salim: 461
al-Tabbana: U61
Ahmad Pasha: U13
of Tughugh: (287)
Amir Khalil: 376
in wikala of al-‘Asal: U17
Amir Muhammad: 14 ‘Aqash: 236
Radwan Bey houses: 407, pp. 68
‘Atfat al-Zababqi (al-Ghamri): (491)
palace: 208, pp. 68, 70
‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya: (506), pp. 62
qasaba: 406–(409), pp. 6, 56, 70
Aytmish al-Bagasi, mosque-sabil: 250 Baktimur al-Mu’mini. See 148
zawiya: 365, pp. 70 Radwan Katkhuda al-Galfi, Citadel walls. See 555
al-Balifiyya (al-Balighya): (498)
al-Raf-raf, burg: U89. See also 549, U91
Bambah Qadin: U107
Ragab Agha, mosque: U47
Bashir Agha Dar Sa’ada: 309
Ragab al-Shirazi, mausoleum: 476
al-Bazdar: 27, pp. 64, 66
Ramadan (shaykh), mosque: 436
bow-fronted: 308, 331, 337, 358, 420, 588, U36
Ramban Yeshiva (synagogue of Maimonides): U21
Farag ibn Barquq: 203, pp. 68, 70
al-Ramla, burg: U51B
al-Ghamri: (491)
al-Razzaz. See Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz
al-Guwwaniya. See 14
Ribat
Hasan Agha Arzingan: 420, pp. 76
Ahmad ibn Sulayman: 245
Hasan Katkhuda: 405
Khawand Zaynab: 61
Hasan (sabil Darb al-Masmat): (361)
al-Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din: 204
Husayn al-Shu’aybi: 588
al-Zayni: (141), pp. 76
Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan: 238
al-Rifa‘i. See Ahmad ibn Sulayman; ‘Ali Abu Shibbak
Ibrahim Bey al-Kabir: 331, pp. 35 Ibrahim Bey al-Wali: U108
al-Rifa‘i; Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i; Sidi Mohi
Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan: 331
al-Din al-Rifa‘i
Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan: 363
Roda Island: pp. 3, 6, 14, 27 Royal Carriage Museum. See U54
Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi): 57, pp. 64, 66
Ruqayya Dudu, sabil-kuttab: 337
Isma‘il Pasha: 402
Rumayla: pp. 32, 37, 60
Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui: 71 Khusraw Pasha: 52
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Sabils, sabil-kuttabs contd.
Sabils, sabil-kuttabs contd.
al-Kirdani: 179
Udah Basha: 17, 591
Kosa Sinan: 507
‘Ulfat Qadin: U68
al-Kritliya: 321, pp. 44
‘Umar Agha: 240
al-Magharbellin: U44
‘Umar Bey (Ibrahim Khulussi): 226
Mamluk: 67, 76, 144, 148, 203, 213, 250, 255, 324, 557, U119
‘Umar Gawish: (427)
al-Manawi: (496)
Umm ‘Abbas (Bambah Qadin): U107
Muhammad ‘Ali: 401, 402. See also below:
Umm Husayn Bey: U36, pp. 76
Nineteenth-century
‘Uthman ‘Abdallah (Roq‘et al-Qamh): (447), pp. 62
Muhammad al-Ghurayib (shaykh): 448, pp. 62
al-Wafa‘iya: 557
Muhammad Katkhuda al-Dawudli: (427)
waqf al-Haramayn: 433
Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan: 150
waqf Hebaysh: 198
Muhammad Mustafa al-Muhasibgi: 329
waqf Kulsun: 311. See also U79
al-Mu’mini. See 148
waqf Yusuf Bey: 262
Mustafa Musali Shurbagi: 232
in wikalat al-Gulshaniya: U14
Mustafa Shurbagi Mustahfizan: 553
Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: 230. See also 150
Mustafa Sinan: 246
Yusuf al-Kurdi: 213
Nafisa al-Bayda: 358
Yusuf Bey: 219
al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun: 561
Zayn al-Abidin: 69
Nineteenth-century: 401, 402, 420, 433, U13, U36, U68, U107
al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya, manzil: 463
Ottoman: 14, 16, 17, 21, 23, 27, 40, 52, 57, 62, 69, 70, 71
Safi al-Din Gawhar, tomb: 270
150, 179, 194, 197, 198, 219, 226, 230, 232, 236, 238,
al-Saga, hammam al-Saga. See U16
240, 243, 246, 248, 262, 265, 268, 291, 308, 309, 311,
al-Sahibiya, madrasa: 178
321, 328, 329, 331, 335, 337, 358, (361), 363, 376, 396,
al-Sahra, burg, U51E. See also U71
397, 405, (421), (427), (429), 436, (447), 448, 452, 461,
Sahrig of al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun: 569
(489) (491), (496), (498), (506), 507, 553, 588, U14, U44,
Sa‘id. Khan Sa‘id: (458)
U102, U108
Sa‘id Pasha (son of Muhammad ‘Ali), mosque. See 503
Qaytbay: 76, 324, U119
Sa‘id al-Su‘ada, mosque: 480. See also U4
Qitas Bey: 16
al-Sayf, wikala: U33
Qizlar: 265
Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park: U126
Ruqayya Dudu: 337
Sahib Safi al-Din ‘Abdallah ibn ‘Ali, madrasa: 178
Salim Agha: (429), pp. 72. See also 7
St. Mark, Church of: U132
al-Sayyid ‘Ali ibn Hayz‘: 23
St. Nicholas, Cathedral of: U34
Shari‘ al-Magharbellin: U44
Sakna Pasha, house: U125
Shahin Agha Ahmad: 328
Salah al-Din
Shaykh Ramadan: 436
Bab al-Mudarrag. See 556
Shaykhu: 144
‘Bir Yusuf’: 305, pp. 25, 27
Sitt Saliha: pp. 76
Burg (unnamed): U51A, U51D, U51F, U51F, U51V
Sulayman Bey al-Kharbutli: 70
Burg al-Alwa: U51O
Sulayman Gawish (Bab al-Hadid): 167
Burg al-Haddad: U51C
of Sultan Mahmud: pp. 35
Burg al-Imam: U51W
Taha Hasan al-Wardani: 236
Burg al-Muballat: U51T
Tarabay al-Sharifi: 255
Burg al-Muqusar: U51U
Tusun Pasha: 401
Burg al-Qarafa: U51S
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Shari‘ al-Dardir, houses: (486), (487), (493)
Salah al-Din contd. Burg al-Ramla: U51B
Shari‘ al-Ganibakiya, maq‘ad: U49
Burg al-Sahra: U51E
Shari‘ Hammam Bashtak, house: U60
Walls: 307 passim. See also 476, U11, U51
Shari‘ Ibrahim Bey, palace: U136
Salar, mosque and tomb: 221
Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiya, house entrance: U20
Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub
Shari‘ al-Khiyamiya, house: 407
madrasa and mausoleum: 38, pp. 64
Shari‘ al-Mahgar, house: U56
mashhad of Husayn. See 28
Shari‘ al-Magharbellin, sabil-kuttabs: 214, U44
al-Salih Tala’i‘, mosque: 116, pp. 68
Shari‘ Muhammad ‘Ali, house: U63
Salim Agha, sabil: (429), pp. 72. See also 7
Shari‘ Mu‘izz, wikala: U129
al-Sanadqiya, wikala: 423
Shari‘ al-Qirabiya, house: U48
Sandal al-Mangaki, tomb: 327. See also U55
Shari‘ al-Ruqbiya, houses: (469)
Sangar al-Gamaqdar, tomb. See (417)
al-Shariya, bab. See 307C
Sangar al-Gawli, mosque and tomb: 221
Shaykhu (amir)
Sarghatmish, mosque: 218, pp. 44
hammam: U106
Sayim (shaykh), house: (437), pp. 62
hawd: 323
Sayyida ‘Ayesha, mosque: (378), pp. 46
khanqah: 152. See also 323
al-Sayyid ‘Ali ibn Hayz‘, sabil-kuttab, 23
mosque: 147 sabil: 144
Sayyid Mu’ad (Sidi Ma‘az), mashhad. See 3 Sayyida Sukayna, mosque: U116, pp. 46
Shehab al-Din al Ramli, tomb: U9
Sayyid Sariya, tomb. See 142
al-Shishini, wikalat: U1. See also 499
Schools. See Madrasa, Sabil-kuttab
al-Shuhada, mosque: U6
Selim Yavuz (sultan), appropriations. See 35, 143
al-Shurafa, tomb: 357
Sha’ban (al-Ashraf Sha’ban, sultan): madrasa. See 257. See also
Shurbagi (Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi), tomb: U2 Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa‘i, mosque: U103, pp. 46, 61
Khawand Baraka Shafi‘i, tomb of Imam: pp. 8
Sidi al-Arbain, tomb: U122
Shagarat al-Durr
Sidi al-‘Azab, tomb. See U93
hammam. See U117
Sidi Galal al-Assiuti, tomb and zawiya: U110
mausoleum: 169, pp. 45
Sidi Ma‘az, mashhad. See 3
mausoleum of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38
Sidi Mohi al-Din al-Rifa‘i, tomb. See U98 Sidi Muhammad al-Arghul al-‘Izzi, tomb. See U98
mosque: U118, pp. 45 Shahin Agha Ahmad, sabil-kuttab: 328
Sidi Muhammad al-Sha’rani, zawiya: (502)
Shakir ibn Ghanam, palace. See 96
Sidi Shahin, madrasa: U98
Shams al-Din al-Ramli, mosque: U9
al-Sihaymi, bayt: 339, pp. 76. See also U3
Shams al-Din Shakir (Ibn al-Bakri), mosque. See 18
al-Silsila, bab. See 145, U93
Sharaf al-Din (qadi), mosque: 176
Sinan (shaykh), tomb: 41
al-Sha‘rani
al-Sitt, hammam. See U117
qa‘a and maq‘ad: 63
al-Sitt Manwar, house. See (439)
mausoleum and complex: 59
Sitt Wasila‘, house: 445
zawiya: (502)
Sudun Min Zada, mosque: 127 Sudun al-Qasrawi, mausoleum: 105
al-Sharaybi hammam: U30
al-Sughra, wikala. See 179
wikala: 460
Sukayna, hammam. See U117 Sukkar, ‘Bayt Sukkar.’ See U57
Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush, wikalas: (489), (491)
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al-Sukkari, mosque: (137), pp. 43. See also 257
al-Tanbali, hammam: 564, pp. 35
Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar
Taqi al-Din al-Bistami, takiya: 326
mosque: 382, pp. 84
Taqtabay ibn Bardbak, mosque: 25
sabil-kuttab: 14
Tarabay al-Sharifi, tomb and sabil-kuttab: 255
wikala. 604. See also U1
al-Tarrabi. See ‘Ali al-Tarrabi
Sulayman Bey, al-Kharbutli, sabil-kuttab: 70
Tashtamur al-‘Ala’i, palace. See 153
Sulayman Bey Muhammad, wikala: (399)
Tatar al-Hegaziya, mosque-mausoleum: 36
Sulayman Gawish, sabil-kuttab: 167
al-Tawfiq, bab. U10. See also 307D, 614
Sulayman Pasha
Taybars (amir), madrasa. See 97
mosque: 142. See also U51W
Taz (amir), palace: 267
properties: 351, 510
al-Tinah, wikala. See 16
al-Sulaymaniya, takiya: 225
Tombs and mausolea
al-Sultaniya
‘Abd al-Karim. See U130
mausoleum: 289, pp. 37
Abu’l Ghadanfar: 3
minaret: 288
Abu’l Yusufayn: 234
Sunqur al-Sa’di (amir), tomb. See 263
Ahmad Pasha Tahir: 565, pp. 76
Suq al-Silah (nos. 4 and 23), wikalas: U75, U76
Ahmad al-Qasid: 10
al-Sutuhi, zawiya. See (478)
‘Ali al-Amri: 426
Su‘ud (shaykh), qubba: 510
‘Ali al-Gizi: (277)
Suzanne Mubarak Centre for Islamic Civilization. See 324
‘Ali Negm: 359
Synagogues
Anuk: 44
Ha‘im Capusi: U18
Azdumur: 113
Karaite: U22
Baybars al-Khayyat: 191
Maimonides: U21
al-Biraqdar: U94 Faris Aqtai: 370
al-Tabbakh, zawiya: (431)
Fatima, mother of Husayn. See 25
al-Tabbana, rab‘ : U61
Fatimid (unknown occupant): 479
al-Tablawi, bayt. See 339
Fatma al-Nabawiya: U37
al-Tabtabay, wikala: (468)
Gamal al-Din. See 339
Taghribardi
al-Ghuri: 67
mosque: 42
Hasan al-‘Adawi. See 24
wikala: 188
Hasan Sadaqa: 263
Taghribardi al-Buklumushi (amir), mosque: 209
Husam al-Din al-Turuntay: 590
Taha Hasan al-Wardani: sabil-kuttab: 236
Ibrahim al-Fawwar: U115
Takiya
Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian: 586
Abu’l Dhahab: U27
Ibrahim al-Giza (shaykh): U52
al-Gulshani: 332
Inal (Sultan): pp. 37
Iraniya: U7
Isma‘il al-Sha’rani: U12
Mahmud (sultan): 308, pp. 35
Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi: U2
al-Marghani. See 327, U55
Khayrbak: 248
Mevleviya (samakhana): U105. See also 263
Muhammad Agha: U99
al-Sha‘rani. See 59
Muhammad al-Anwar: 68
al-Sulaymaniya (Sulayman Pasha): 225
Muhammad al-Ka‘aki: U80
Taqi al-Din al-Bistami: 326
Mustafa Fadil Pasha. See U69
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Udah Basha contd.
Tombs and mausolea contd. Mustafa Kamil: U104
wikala: 19, 591, pp. 35. See also (371)
al-Muzaffar, ‘Alam al-Din Sangar: 261
zawiya: (371) Ulfat Qadin
Qansuh Abu Sa‘id: 360 Qarasunqur: 31
sabil: U68
Qawsun: 291
tomb: U69
Qaytbay: pp. 34, 37
Ulmas (Sayf al-Din Ulmas), mosque: 130
Qurqumas: (170), pp. 37, 72. See also 15
‘Umar Agha house: U59
Ragab al-Shirazi: 476
sabil and tomb: 240
Sa‘ad Zaghloul: pp. 52 Safi al-Din Gawhar: 270
‘Umar Bey, sabil: 226
Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38, pp. 64
‘Umar Gawish, sabil-kuttab: (427)
Sandal al-Mangaki: 327
‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini, mosque: (481)
Sangar al-Gamaqdar (mosque of al-Kurdi): (417)
‘Umar ibn Trak, wikala: U19
Sayyid Sariya‘. See 142
Umm ‘Abbas (Bambah Qadin), sabil: U107
Shagarat al-Durr: 169, pp. 45, 49
Umm al-Ghulam, mosque. See 25
al-Sha’rani: 59
Umm Husayn Bey (wife of Muhammad ‘Ali Pasha) restorations in mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri: 184
al-Shurafa: 357
sabil: U36, pp. 76
Sidi al-Arbain: U122 Sidi Galal al-Assiuti: U110
Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban (Khawand Baraka), madrasa: 125
Sinan (shaykh): 41
United States Agency for International Development (USAID). See Egyptian Antiquities Project
Sudun al-Qasrawi: 105 al-Sultaniya: 289, pp. 37
al-‘Uqbi, wikala: (484)
Sunqur al Sa’di: 263
‘Uthman ‘Abdallah Roq‘et al-Qamh, sabil-kuttab: (447), p. 62
Tarabay al-Sharifi: 255
‘Utay: hawsh Utay: 499
Tatar al-Hegaziya: 36
‘Uthman Agha, mosque: 200
Ulfat Qadin. See U69
‘Uthman ‘Amara, manzil: (470)
‘Uthman al-Fathi (shaykh): U53
‘Uthman Bira, sabil-kuttab. See (447)
Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar: 303
‘Uthman al-Fathi (shaykh), tomb: U53
Yunus al-Dawadar: 139
‘Uthman Katkhuda, qa‘a: 50
Yusuf Agha al-Habashi: 229 al-Wada‘a, bab. See 144
in zawiya of al-Sutuhi: (478)
al-Wafa‘iya
Topkhane (Arsenal): U92 Towers. See Burg
manzil: 463
Tughugh, rab‘: (287)
sabil: 557
Tulun. See Ahmad ibn Tulun
al-Wali. See Ibrahim Bey al-Wali
Tumanbay I, restoration of Bab al-Mudarrag. See 556
Walls: 307, 352, U11, U51, U81, U127. See also Bab; Burg
Turbat. See Tombs and mausolea
Eastern: pp. 3, 37
al-Turfa, burg: U51R
Northern: pp. 3, 64 Waqf properties
Tusun Pasha (son of Muhammad ‘Ali), sabil: 401
al-‘Abbar: (439) al-Ubbur, wikala. See U129
‘Asal. See (491)
Udah Basha
Banush Bey: (504) Bashir Agha: (495)
sabil, sabil-kuttab: 17, 591
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Waqf properties contd.
Wikala contd.
Baybars al-Gashankir. See 16
Ga’far al-Kabir. See 433
al-Fakahani: (366)
al-Ghuri: 64, 54. See also 56
al-Haramayn: (400), 433, (598)
al-Gulshaniya: U14
al-Hatu, house: (13)
al-Hamzawi al-Saghi: (424)
Hebaysh, sabil: 198
al-Haramayn. 433, 598
Ibrahim Agha: (457), (595), 613, 619
Hasan Katkhuda: U112
Ibrahim Effendi Shenan: (435)
Hasan Katkhuda al-Bagdali: U124
Kulsun: 311. See also U79
Ibrahim Agha. See (491)
al-Magharba: (488)
al-Kharbutli: (367)
Mahmud al-Shabsiri: 609
al-Kihiya. See 398
al-Matyali: (424)
al-Lawand: (403)
al-Mulla: 541
al-Khalawati: U79
Mustafa Sinan: 545
al-Mihmandariya: U24
Qalawun. See 596
al-Muhammadayn (al-Khatib): 597
al-Safti: (486)
al-Mulla al-Kabira (Zaynab Khatun): U5
Sa‘id Pasha: 65
Mustafa Sinan: U74
al-Sha’rani: 63
Nafisa al-Bayda: 395
Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 14
al-Naqadi: 397
al-Tutungi: 548
al-Nasharin (Sultan Inal): (422)
Yusuf Bey: 262
Qawsun: 11, pp. 76
Zaynab Khatun: 77
Qaytbay: (at Bab al-Nasr) 9, (at al-Azhar) 75 and pp. 35,
Watering troughs. See Hawd Waterworks: 133, 369, U97. See also Cisterns; Hawd; Sabil-kuttab; Wells.
(Shari‘ al-Surugiyya) U77 al-Qutn. See 9 al-Sanadqiya: 423
al-Wazir, bab. See 138, 250, 251, 307H
al-Sayf: U33
Wells: 305 (‘Bir Yusuf’), pp. 25, 27; U71, U97
Shari‘ Amir al-Guyush: (489)
Wikala
Shari‘ al-Dardir: (487)
‘Abbas Agha: 396
Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah (al-Ubbur): U129
Abud al-Mana‘ifa: (453)
No. 53, Shari‘ Tulun: U120
Abu’l Rus (al-Danushari): (434)
al-Sharaybi: 460
Abu Takiya. See 179
al-Shishini. See U1, 499
‘Ain al-Gazal: U15
Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 604, U1
al-‘Asal: U17
Suq al-Silah: U75, U76
‘Atfat al-Zababqi (Ibrahim Agha): (491)
al-Tabtabay: (468)
Bakr Shurbagi (?): U28
Taghribardi: 188
Bazar’a (al-Kihiya): 398
al-Tinah. See 16
Bedawiya Shahin: 615
al-Ubbur: U129
Darb al-Dalil, no. 8: U50
Udah Basha: 19, 591, pp. 35. See also (371)
Dhulfiqar (Udah Basha): 19, 591, pp. 35
‘Umar ibn Trak. See U19
al-Farrain. See U77
waqf of al-Haramayn: 433, (598)
al-Firakh: (399)
waqf of al-Matyali: (424)
al-Gallaba: 425, pp. 37
waqf of al-Tutungi: 548
Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi: 411
Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: U39
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Zawiya contd.
al-Wustani, burg: U51K
‘Ali Negm. See 359 Yahya ibn ‘Aqab, mosque: (485)
Ahmad ibn Sha’ban: 103
Yahya Zayn al-Din (qadi)
al-Arbain: (353)
mosque: 182, 204, pp. 76
Farag ibn Barquq: 203, pp. 68, 70
ribat al-Zayni: (141), pp. 76. See also 204
Fatima Umm Khawand: 58
Yakan Pasha. See U81
Fayruz: 192
Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar, mausoleum: 303
Gaf‘ar al-Sadiq: 554
Yalbugha al-Nasiri, Harraqa Pavilion. See U91
Gulaq. See 173
Yashbak min Mahdi
al-Harisi: U31
palace: 266. See also U105
Hasan al-Rumi: 258
complex in Husayniya: pp. 25
al-Hunud: 237
Yunus al-Dawadar, mausoleum: 139
al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh. See 145
Yusuf, ‘Bir Yusuf’: 305, pp. 25, 27. See also U51M
Muhammad Durgham: 241
Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada
Murshid (shaykh): (374)
sabil-kuttab: 230. See also 150
Mustafa Pasha: 155
wikala: U39
Radwan Bey: 365, pp. 70
Yusuf Agha al-Habashi, tomb: 229
Sa‘ad al-Din Ibrahim al-Arabi. See 312
Yusuf Agha al-Hin, mosque: 196, pp. 43
al-Sutuhi: (478)
Yusuf Bey, sabil: 219
al-Tabbakh: (431)
Yusuf ibn ‘Ain al-Gazal, wikala: U15
Udah Basha: (371) al-‘Uqbi (khan al-Fisqiya): (484)
Yusuf al-Kurdi, sabil: 213
Zaynab Khatun wikala. See U5
al-Zafar, burg: 307A. See also 307B, 307E
house: pp. 62. See 77
al-Zafir (khalif), mosque. See 109 al-Zarakisha, khan: 351, pp. 64, 66
Zayn al-Abidin, sabil-kuttab: 69
al-Zawiya, burg: U101. See also U87
Zaynab Umm Ahmad, manzil: (470)
Zawiya
al-Zayni. See Yahya Zayn al-Din Ziyada
al-Abbar: 146
in mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun. See 220. See also 218, 321,
Abdallah al-Baz (shaykh): U58
559, U119
‘Abd al-Karim: U130
in mosque of al-Hakim. See 15. See also 477
‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 214, pp. 79
Zuwayla, bab: 199, pp. 3, 23, 28, 34, 37, 64, 68.
Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati: 477
See also 190
‘Ali al-Maghrabi: U41
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Index of Buildings by Date Dates herein by and large indicate date of foundation, Anno Hegirae preceding Anno Domini. Attributions to ‘century’ precede specific dates within that century. References are to catalogue number. Numbers in parentheses indicate delisted or deregistered monuments; U-series numbers designate unlisted monuments, or monuments registered without a number.
Tulunids (AH 254–92 / 263–65 / 876–79
AD
868–905) mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun: 220
‘Abbasid Khalifs (AH 292–323 / Ikhshids (AH 232–58 /
AD
Fatimids (AH 358–567 / 359–61 / 970–72
AD
905–35)
6th /12th century
Ramban Yeshiva (synagogue of Maimonides): U21 tomb of Sayyid Sariya. See 142 519 / 1125 mosque of al-Aqmar: 33 527 / 1133 mausoleum: 479 544 / 1149 doors of the mosque of Khalif al-Zafir: 109 549 / 1154 mashhad of al-Husayn. See 28 549–634 / 1154–1236 gateway and minaret of the mosque of al-Husayn: 28 552 /1157 madrasa of Abu‘l Ghadanfar: 3 555 / 1160 mosque of al-Salih Tala’i‘: 116 565–66 (?) / 1170 (?) Tower no. 17: U17
935–69)
969–1171) mosque of al-Azhar: 97 Eastern Palace. See 34, 38, (47) mashhad of Sayyid Mu’ad (Sidi Ma‘az). See 3 restorations in mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun. See 220 380–403 / 990–1013 mosque of al-Hakim: 15 ca. 410 / 1020 tomb of Muhammad al-Anwar. See 68 411–27 / 1021–36 zawiya of Abu’l Khayr al-Kulaybati: 477 480 / 1087 Bab al-Barqiya (Bab al-Tawfiq): U10. See also (551), 614 Bab al-Futuh: 6 Bab al-Nasr: 7 Bab al-Qantara: U8 Northern walls of Cairo: 352. See also U11 485 / 1092 Bab Zuwayla: 199 4th /10th century Church of the Virgin, Harat Zuwayla: 482 Late 5th / 11th century palace of Sa‘id al-Su‘ada. See 480 6th /12th century hammam of Qadi al-Fadil. See 596 qa‘at al-Dardir: 466 AD
Ayyubids (AH 566–650 / AD 1171–1252) 566–72 / 1171–76 Ayyubid walls: 307 Bab al-Barqiya: 614. See also (551), U10 Bab al-Tawfiq: U10 566–72 (?) / 1171–76 (?) Bab al-Ghurayib: (551) Bab al-Khala (al-Qarafa): (551) 566–89 / 1171–93 walls and defensive towers: 307 572–89 / 1176–93 Bir Yusuf (Well of Salah al-Din): 305 572–89 / 1176–93 (?) quarry and well (Saba Salatin): U71 579 / 1183–84 Bab al-Mudarrag: 556 579–604 / 1183–1207 Citadel: walls of the northern enclosure: U51 before 601 / 1205 hammam al-Gabali: U35 603 / 1207 Burg al-Ahmar: U51I Burg al-Suffa: U51N ca. 603 (?) / 1207 (?) Burg al-Kirkilyan: U51P 622 / 1225 madrasat al-Kamiliya: 428 633–34 / 1237 minaret of the mosque of al-Husayn: 28 641 / 1243 madrasa of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38 647–48 / 1249 mausoleum of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub: 38
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Bahri Mamluks (AH 648–783 / AD 1250–1382) 648 / 1250 mausoleum of Shagarat al-Durr: 169 652 / 1254 mausoleum of Aqtay al-Farisi: 370 tomb of Fatima, mother of Husayn. See 25 ca. 658 / 1259 hammam al-Dud: U78 659–76 / 1260–77 Bab al-Qulla: U51L remains of the Burg al-Siba‘: U87 660 / 1262 madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars: 37 683 / 1284 complex of Qalawun: 43 683 / 1284–85 zawiyat al-‘Abbar: 146 689 / 1290 madrasa of Muhammad Abu’l Fadl: (186) mausoleum of Husam al-Din al-Turuntay: 590 689–93 / 1290–93 Burg al-Rafraf: U89 689–714 / 1290–1314(?) ‘Double-Cross’ hall: U91 690 / 1291 ribat of Ahmad ibn Sulayman: 245 692 / 1292 qa‘at al-Ashrafiya: U88 695–96 / 1294–96 madrasa of al-Nasir Muhammad: 44 696 / 1297 minaret of the mosque of ‘Ali al-Baqli: 156 restorations by Sultan Lagin, in mosque of Ahmad Ibn Tulun. See 220 ca. 700 / 1300 tombs in zawiyat al-Sutuhi. See (478) 8th / 14th century Bab al-Gabal: U81 Burg al-Zawiya: U101 gate of Darb al-Labbana: 325 hammam of Kushqadam: U113 hammam of Aydaghmish. See U38 Mamluk kitchens: U84 minaret and mausoleum al-Sultaniya: 288, 289 qubba of Awlad al-Asyad: 215 rab‘ of Tughugh: (287) retaining wall in Citadel: U127 tomb of Sandal al-Mangaki: 327 wikalat al-Firakh: (399) 700 / 1300–1 mausoleum of Qarasunqur: 31 701–2 / 1302 restorations, by Baybars al-Gashankir, in mosque of al-Hakim. See 15 703 / 1303 mosque of Salar and Sangar: 221 706–9 / 1306–10 khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir: 32 709 / 1309 madrasa of amir Taybars. See 97 710 / 1310 tomb of Sangar al-Gamaqdar (mosque of al-Kurdi): (417) mosque of Ahmad Bey Kohya: 521 712 / 1312 Qaramidan, surviving wall: 617 sahrig, in the Citadel: 569 tower and waterworks of al-Nasir Muhammad: 369 well of the hawsh: U97 714 / 1314 modifications to Burg al-Rafraf. See U89
244
I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
D A T E
714 / 1314 715 / 1315 ca. 715 / 1315 715–21 / 1315–21 717–38 / 1317–37 719 / 1319 722 / 1322 725 / 1324 726 / 1326 730 / 1329–30
731–38 / 1330–37 733–38 / 1333–39 735 / 1334 735 / 1335
ca. 735 / 1335 736 / 1335–36 736–40 / 1335–39 736 / 1336 736–37 / 1337 738–40 / 1337–39 741 / 1340 before 742 / 1341 742 / 1341
745–46 / 1344–45 before 747 / 1346 747 / 1346 748 / 1347 749 / 1348 750 / 1349 751 / 1350 753 / 1352 755 / 1354 756 / 1355 757 / 1356
palace of al-Nasir Muhammad (Ablaq Palace): 549 tomb of Safi al-Din Gawhar: 270 minaret of zawiyat al-Hunud: 237 tomb of Hasan Sadaqa (Sunqur al Sa‘di): 263 mosque of the qadi Sharaf al-Din: 176 mosque of Almalik al-Gukandar: 24 mosque of the amir Husayn: 233 qubba of al-Muzaffar ‘Alam al-Din Sangar: 261 mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar: 115 sabil of al-Nasir Muhammad: 561 mausoleum of ‘Abu’l Yusufayn’: 234 mosque of Mughaltay al-Gamali: 26 mosque of Qawsun: 202. See also 224, U62 mosque of Ulmas: 130 palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri (Alin Aq): 249 qubbat al-Qimari: 128 palace of Yashbak min Mahdi: 266 madrasa of the amir Aqbugha. See 97 Bab Qadi ‘Askar: (47) hawsh (curtain walls of al-Nasir Muhammad). See U81 mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad: 143 mausoleum of Ahmad al-Qasid: 10 khanqah and minaret of Qawsun: 290 mausoleum of Qawsun: 291 palace of Bashtak: 34 mosque of Bashtak. See 34, 205 palace of the amir Qawsun. See 266 mosque of Altunbugha al-Maridani: 120 tomb of Anuk. See 44 wikala of Qawsun: 11 hammam of Bashtak: 244 mausoleum in the mosque of Aqsunqur. See 123 mosque of Aslam al-Silahdar: 112 mosque of Aydumur al-Bahlawan: 22 mosque of Aqsunqur: 123 palace of Mangak al-Yusufi. See 247 madrasa of Qutlubugha al-Dhahabi: 242 mosque of Tatar al-Hegaziya: 36 mosque of Mangak al-Yusufi: 138 mosque of Shaykhu: 147 qa‘a of Muhib al-Din al-Muwaqqi (‘Uthman Katkhuda): 50 palace of the amir Taz: 267 sabil of Shaykhu: 144 hammam of Shaykhu: U106 khanqah of Shaykhu: 152 khanqah of Nizam al-Din: 140 mosque of Sarghatmish: 218
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757–64 / 1356–62 758 / 1357 761 / 1359
761 / 1360 763 / 1361 768–71 / 1366–70 768–72 / 1366–71 770 / 1368 770–71 / 1369 772 / 1370 774 / 1372 774 / 1373 before 776 / 1374 777 / 1375 781 / 1379
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madrasa of Sultan Hasan: 133. See also 120, 190 (usurpations) mosque of Badr al-Din al-Agami: (39) madrasa of Bashir Agha alGumdar: 269 restorations (by Sultan Hasan) in mosque of al-Hakim. See 15 mausoleum of Tatar al-Hegaziya: 36 mosque of al-Amir Mithqal: 45 mosque of Khushqadam al-Ahmadi: 153 palace of Tashtamur al-‘Ala’i. See 153 madrasa of Umm al-Sultan Sha’ban (Khawand Baraka): 125 sabil of Baktimur al-Mu’mini. See 148 mosque of Asanbugha: 185 madrasat al-Ghanamiya: 96 mosque of Ilgay al-Yusufi: 131 mosque of Ibn al-Baqri: 18 madrasa of al-Ashraf Sha’ban. See 257 mausoleum of Ragab al-Shirazi: 476
Burgi Mamluk (AH 783–922 / AD 1382–1517) 783 / 1382 mausoleum of Yunus al-Dawadar: 139 785 / 1383 hawd-kuttab of Aytmish al-Bagasi: 251 mosque complex of Aytmish al-Bagasi: 250 786–88 / 1384–86 madrasa of al-Zahir Barquq: 187 791 / 1389 mosque of ‘Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqini. See (481) 794 / 1392–93 mosque of Inal al-Yusufi: 118 795 / 1393 mosque of Mahmud al-Kurdi: 117 798 / 1395 mosque of Muqbil al-Dawudi: 177 early 9th (?) / 15th (?) century elements of zawiya in tomb of ‘Ali Negm. See 359 9th / 15th century house of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz. See 235 khan al-Hagar. See (434) qubbat al-Komi: 256 zawiya of Fatima Umm Khawand: 58 803–8 / 1400-6 khanqah of Sa‘ad al-Din ibn Ghurab: 312 804 / 1401 mosque of Sudun Min Zada: 127 811 / 1408 madrasa of Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar: 35 zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq: 203 814 / 1411 mosque of al-Ayni: 102 816 / 1413 mosque of Qanibay al-Muhammadi: 151
821 / 1418
mosque of ‘Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri: 184 821–23 / 1418–20 bimaristan of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 257 823 / 1420 hammam of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 410 mosque of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh: 190 mosque of the qadi ‘Abd al-Basit: 60 823–31 / 1420s zawiya of al-Mu’ayyad Shaykh. See 145 829 / 1425 madrasa of al-Ashraf Barsbay: 175 829–30 / 1425–26 mosque of Kafur al-Zimam: 107 830 / 1426 mosque of Ganibak: 119 zawiya of Fayruz: 192 833 / 1430 madrasa of Gawhar al-Lala: 134 844 / 1440 madrasa and tomb of Gawhar. See 97 mosque of Taghribardi al-Buklumushi: 209 845 / 1441–42 minaret of Qanibay al-Sharkasi: 154 mosque of Qaraqoga al-Hasani: 206 ca. 845 / 1441–42 mosque of al-Gamali Yusuf: 178 846 / 1442 sabil al-Wafa‘iya: 557 847 / 1443 takiyya of Taki al-Din al-Bistami: 326 848 / 1444 mosque of Yahya Zayn al-Din: 182 850 / 1446 madrasat al-Ghamri: (465) 853 / 1449 mosque of Sultan Gaqmaq (‘Lagin al-Sa‘ifi’): 217 855 / 1451 mosque of Muhammad Sai‘d Gaqmaq: 180 856 / 1452 mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din: 204 ribat al-Zayni: (141) before 857 / 1453 minaret of the mosque of Gaqmaq: (317) ca. 860 / 1456 ribat of the wife of Sultan Inal (Khawand Zaynab): 61 861 / 1456 hammam of Inal: 562 865 / 1460 mosque and tomb of Taqtabay ibn Bardbak: 25 867 / 1462 mausoleum of Abu’l Ghadanfar: 3 before 870 / 1466 zawiya of Gulaq. See 173 871 / 1466 mosque of Ganem al-Sharkasi al-Tagir: (464) mosque of Mughalbay Taz. See 207 before 873 / 1468 mausoleum of Sudun al-Qasrawi: 105 873 / 1468 house of Zaynab Khatun: 77 mosque of al-Mar’a (Fatima Shaqra): 195 873–901 / 1468–95 renovations (by Sultan Qaytbay) in mosque of al-Azhar. See 97 880 / 1475 hawd of Qaytbay: 222 mosque of Qaytbay: 223 sabil of Qaytbay: U119 882 / 1477 sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay: 76 wikala of Qaytbay (al-Azhar): 75 883–916 / 1478–1510 mosque and mausoleum of Ganem al-Bahlawan: 129
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B U I L D I N G S
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D A T E
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884 / 1479
mosque complex of Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir: 49 sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay: 324 885 / 1480 mosque of Qagmas al-Ishaqi: 114 wikala of Qaytbay (Bab al-Nasr): 9 ca. 885–95 / 1480–89 mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi: 153 890 / 1485 house of Qaytbay: 228 ca. 896 / 1490 maq‘ad of Qaytbay: (440) rab‘ of Qaytbay: (518) 899–900 / 1494 Bab Qaytbay (Bab al-Qarafa): 278 mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi: 21 901 / 1495–96 mausoleum of Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar: 303 before 901 / 1496 hawd of Qaytbay: 74 tomb of al-Shurafa: 357 wikala of Qaytbay (al-Surugiya): U77 wikalat al-‘Uqbi (khan al-Fisqiya): (484) 901 / 1496 maq‘ad of Mamay al-Sa‘ifi (bayt al-Qadi): 51 904 / 1499 mausoleum of Qansuh Abu Sa‘id: 360 early 10th / early 16th century (Mamluk) minaret of ‘Ali al-Amri: 426 Qaramidan: restorations of al-Ghuri: 617 sabil of Yusuf al-Kurdi: 213 906 / 1501 artillery platform in Citadel. See U51 901–22 / 1501–16 palace of al-Ghuri. See 64–66, 189, 322 908 and after / 1502 and after mosque and tomb of Khayrbak: 248 908 / 1503 door, tomb, and sabil-kuttab of Tarabay al-Sharifi: 255 mosque of Qanibay al-Sa‘ifi (Amir Akhur): 136 909 / 1504 mosque of al-Ghuri: 148 909–10 / 1504–5 house of al-Ghuri (waqf of Sa‘id Pasha): 65 maq‘ad of al-Ghuri: 66. See also 65 mausoleum and sabil-kuttab of al-Ghuri: 67 mosque of al-Ghuri: 189 street roofings behind mosque of al-Ghuri: 550 wikala of al-Ghuri: 64 ca. 915 / 1509 khan al-Zarakisha: 351 915 / 1509 minaret of the mosque of al-Ghuri: 159 916 / 1510 minaret of al-Ghuri in mosque of al-Azhar. See 97 917 / 1511 Bab al-Badistan (al-Ghuri): 53 Bab al-Ghuri: 56 mausoleum of Ququrmas: (170). See also 15 wikala of al-Ghuri (al-Qutn): 54. See also 56
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I N D E X
O F
B U I L D I N G S
B Y
D A T E
920–21 / 1515
921–22 / 1516 913 / 1507 10th / 16th century
khan Sa‘id: (458) mausoleum of Baybars al-Khayyat: 191 rab‘ al-Tabbana: U61 tomb of Azdumur: 113 manzil in the waqf al-Haramayn: (400) minaret of the mosque of Muhammad al-Burdayni: U111 qubba of Shaykh Abdallah: 413 sabat in the waqf of al-Fakahani: (366) zawiya of Ahmad ibn Sha’ban: 103 zawiya of Muhammad Durgham: 241
Ottoman (AH 922–1220 / AD 1517–1805) 10th / 16th century cemetery. See U80 house of ‘Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi: 355 khan al-Zarakisha: 351 manzil al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya: 463 mosque of ‘Abd al-Latif al-Qarafi: 46 mosque of Taghribardi (al-Mihmandariya): 42 tomb of Muhammad al-Ka‘aki: U80 towers in walls of northern enclosure: U51H, J, K, M wikalat al-Gallaba: 425 wikala of Taghribardi: 188 zawiya of Sidi Muhammad al-Sha‘rani: (502) 926–31 / 1519–24 takiyyat al-Gulshani: 332 929 / 1522 zawiya of Hasan al-Rumi: 258 before 934 / 1527–28 mosque of Muhib al-Din Abu’l Tayyib: 48 935 / 1528 mosque of Sulayman Pasha: 142 940 / 1533–34 zawiya of Shaykh Murshid: (374) 941 / 1534 qubba of Shaykh Su‘ud: 510 942 / 1535 sabil-kuttab of Khusraw Pasha: 52 947 / 1540 house of Amna bint Salim: 559 950 / 1543 takiyyat al-Sulaymaniya: 225 before 957 / 1550 mosque and tomb of Shams al-Din al-Ramli: U9 ca. 975 / 1567 mausoleum and associated structures of al-Sha‘rani: 59 975 / 1568 mosque al-Mahmudiya (Mahmud al-Maqtul): 135 983 / 1575 mosque of Messih Pasha: 160 986 / 1578 mosque of Murad Pasha: 181 994 / 1585 tomb of Shaykh Sinan: 41 11th / 17th century hawd ‘of Shaykhu’: 323. See also 152 houses in Shari‘ al-Dardir: (487) house, Shari‘ Hammam Bashtak: U60 house in the waqf of al-Magharba (‘Atfat al-Mawargi): (488) house in the waqf of Mustafa Sinan: 545
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11th / 17th century
11th (?) / 17th (?) century
ca. 1009 / 1600 1013 / 1604 1014 / 1605 1015 / 1606 1019 / 1610 1025–38 / 1616–29 1027–28 / 1618
1035 / 1625 ca. 1040 / 1630 1040 / 1630
1040–45 / 1630–35 1041 / 1631
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maq‘ad in palace of the amir Taz. See 267 qubbat al-Biraqdar: U94 sabil-kuttab of al-Kirdani: 179 sabil-kuttab of Zayn al-Abidin: 69 tomb of ‘Ali Negm: 359 wikala of Abu Takiyya. See 179 wikala of al-‘Asal: U17 wikala of Bakr Shurbagi (?): U28 wikala in Shari‘ al-Dardir. See (487) wikala Suq al-Silah: U75 wikala of ‘Umar ibn Trak. See U19 wikala in the waqf of al-Matyali: (424) wikala in the waqf of al-Tutungi: 548 wikala and sabil-kuttab in the waqf al-Haramayn: 433 wikala and tomb of Shaykh Abud al-Mana‘ifa: (453) house of ‘Abd al-Mu’min Shakrun: (493) mosque of ‘Ali al-Tarrabi: U70 rab‘-wikala, Darb al-Dalil: U50 tomb of Shaykh Ibrahim al-Giza: U52 tomb of Shaykh ‘Uthman al-Fathi: U53 wikalat al-Mihmandariya: U24 wikala, Suq al-Silah: U76 wikala, Shari‘ Mu‘izz li-Din Allah (al-Ubbur): U129 zawiya and tomb of Shaykh ‘Abdallah al-Baz: U58 synagogue of Ha‘im Capusi: U18 tomb of Yusuf Agha al-Habashi: 229 sabil-kuttab of the amir Muhammad: 14 house of ‘Abd al-Hamid Wa’di: 364 mosque of Malika Safiya: 200. See also 330 mosque of Karim al-Din Burdayni: 201 sabil-kuttab and rab‘ of al-Qizlar: 265 palace of Muhammad ibn Souwaydan: (336) wikala and sabil of al-Naqadi: 397 mosque of Yusuf Agha al-Hin: 196 zawiya of Mustafa Pasha: 155 wikalat al-Tinah. See 16 sabil of Mustafa Sinan: 246 sabil-kuttab of Qitas Bey (waqf of Baybars al-Gashankir): 16 wikala of Mustafa Sinan: U74 palace of Radwan Bey: 208 qasaba of Radwan Bey: 406–408. See also (409) house in the waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri: 609 house and sabil of al-Kritliya: 321
1042 / 1632
1043 / 1633 1044 / 1634 1046 / 1637 1046–47 / 1637
1049–50 / 1639–40 1050–51 / 1640–41 1052 / 1642 1056 / 1646 1058 / 1648 1060 / 1650 1063 / 1652
1065 / 1654 1065 / 1654–55 1068 / 1657 1070 / 1659 1080 / 1669–70
1084 / 1673
1086 / 1675 1088 / 1677
I N D E X
O F
sabil-kuttab of Khalil Effendi al-Muqati’gui: 71 sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Gawish (Bab al-Hadid): 167 mosque of Marzuq al-Ahmadi: 29 house of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi: 72 sabil of Yusuf Bey: 219 house of Sitt Wasila‘: 445 complex of Mustafa Bey Tabtabay: 272 mosque of Yahya ibn ‘Aqab: (485) sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Bey al-Kharbutli: 70 wikala and sabil of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi: 411 wikalat al-Tabtabay: (468) sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan: 238 sabil of al-Bazdar: 27 tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa Guindian: 586 sabil-kuttab of al-Sayyid ‘Ali ibn Hayz‘: 23 Bayt al-Tablawi. See 339 zawiya of Radwan Bey: 365 restorations, by Ibrahim Agha, in mosque of Aqsunqur: 123 houses in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha: (457), (595), 613, 619 house of ‘Umar Agha: U59 sabil and tomb of ‘Umar Agha: 240 house in the waqf of al-Mulla: 541 house of Khusraw Pasha: (514) sabil of Isma‘il ibn Ahmad (al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi): 57 hawd of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan: 593 mosque of Aqsunqur al-Fariqani al-Habashli: 193 wikala in the waqf of al-Haramayn: (598) gate of al-Harat al-Mabyada: 356 sabil-kuttab and wikala of Udah Basha: 17, 591 wikala of Dhulfiqar (Udah Basha): 19 zawiya of Udah Basha: (371) sabil-kuttab of Shahin Agha Ahmad: 328 sabil-kuttab of ‘Abbas Agha, restoration: 335 sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Baqi Khayr al-Din: 194 sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: 268 sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: 230
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1088 / 1677
wikala of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa‘ada: U39 1090 / 1679 manzil al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya: 463 1094 / 1683 sabil-kuttab of Mustafa Shurbagi Mustahfizan: 553 1095–96 / 1684 restoration, by Bilal Agha, of khanqah of Shaykhu. See 152 1100 / 1688–89 wikalat al-Sanadqiya: 423 zawiya of Gaf‘ar al-Sadiq: 554 1106 / 1694 rab‘ and sabil-kuttab of Hasan Agha Koklian (Belifia): 243 sabil of Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan: 363 wikala and sabil of ‘Abbas Agha: 396. See also 499 ca. 1107 / 1695 wikalat al-Shishini (Sulayman Agha): U1. See also 499 1109 / 1697 mosque of Ahmad Katkhuda al-‘Azab: 145 before 1110 / 1698 sabil in the waqf of Kulsun: 311 wikalat al-Khalawati: U79 1111 / 1699 sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Effendi Salim: 461 late 11th /17th century wikalat Bazar’a (al-Kihiya): 398 before 1112 /1700 wikalat al-Mulla al-Kabira (Zaynab Khatun): U5 12th / 18th century Faramangui House. See (534) hammam Qadi al-Fadil (al-Sukkariya): 596 hammam al-Sharaybi: U30 hammam al-Tanbali: 564 house of ‘Ali Effendi Labib: 497 house entrance, Shari‘ Khan Abu Takiyya: U20 house of Gawhar Agha: (443) house of Hanafi al-Bayda: U43 house of Hasan ‘Abd al-Latif: (375) house of Mahmud Sudan: (501) house of Munib al-Alayli (Shaykh al-Qayati): (368) house of Shaykh Sayim: (437) house in the waqf of Banush Bey (‘Bircher House’): (504) manzil ‘Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari. See (437) manzil in the waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan: (435) manzil of ‘Uthman ‘Amara (Zaynab Umm Ahmad): (470) mosque of al-Hagg Abu Ghalya (al-Sukkari): (137) sabil-kuttab of Husayn al-Shu’aybi: 588 sabil of Ibrahim Bey al-Wali (?): U108 sabil of Kosa Sinan: 507 sabil in the waqf of Hebaysh: 198
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B U I L D I N G S
B Y
D A T E
12th / 18th century
12th (?) / 18th (?) century
before 1112 / 1700 1113 / 1701
before 1120 / 1708 1122 / 1710 1123 / 1711 1125 / 1713
sabil-kuttab ‘Atfat al-Zababqi (al-Ghamri): (491) sabil-kuttab, Ottoman: U102 sabil-kuttab, Shari‘ al-Magharbellin: U44 sabil-kuttab Taha Hasan al-Wardani (‘Aqash): 236 sabil-rab‘ al-Belifia (al-Balighya): (498) tomb of Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi: U2 wikala, ‘Atfat al-Zababqi (Ibrahim Agha): (491) wikala facade: U96 wikalat al-Haramayn. See (501) wikalat al-Muhammadayn (al-Khatib): 597 wikala of al-Sharaybi: 460 wikala, No. 53 Shari‘ Tulun: U120 Bayt al-Gazia: U72 hammam al-Effendi: (566) hammam al-Qirabiya: U42 hammam, Darb al-Ahmar: U38 hammam, No. 83 Shari‘ Tulun: U121 house and qa‘a in the waqf of al-‘Abbar (al-Sitt Manwar): (439) house of Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus: (489) house, Harat Salim Pasha: U73 houses, Shari‘ al-Ruqbiya: (469) house in the waqf of al-Safti: (486) manzil in the waqf of Bashir Agha: (495) manzil in the waqf of al-Hatu: (13) maq‘ads (Ottoman): U32, U45, U49 minaret of the madrasat al-Ghanamiya: U26 mosque of Isma‘il al-Sha’rani: U12 mosque of Muhammad Kishr: U128 sabil of Ahmad ‘Abd al-Qudus: (489) tomb of ‘Ali al-Gizi: (277) tomb of Isma‘il al-Sha’rani: U12 wikala of Hasan Katkhuda al-Bagdali: U124 wikala, Shari‘ al-Guyush. See (489) zawiyat al-Harisi: U31 zawiyat al-Tabbakh: (431) wikalat al-Mulla al-Kabira: U5 mosque of Qara Muhammad: 377 sabil-kuttab of Hasan Katkhuda: 405 wikala of Hasan Katkhuda: U112 wikalat al-Lawand: (403) sabil-kuttab of ‘Ali Bey al-Dumiati:197 mosque of Alti Barmaq: 126 house of Mustafa Gaf‘ar: 471 house of Zaynab Khatun: 77 sabil-kuttab of Abu’l Iqbal ‘Arifin Bey: 73
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1125 / 1713 1127 / 1715 1129 / 1716 1131 / 1718
1131 / 1718–19 1132 / 1719
1134–35 / 1722
1138 / 1725 1142 / 1729 1144 / 1731 1145 / 1732–33 1148 / 1735
before 1152 / 1739 1157 / 1744
1159 / 1746 before 1159 / 1747 before 1164 / 1750 1164 / 1750 1166 / 1752 1166–67 / 1753
1168 / 1754
before 1169 / 1755
1169 / 1755
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sabil-kuttab of ‘Uthman ‘Abdallah Roq‘et al-Qamh: (447) sabil of Mustafa Musali Shurbagi: 232 sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Mustafa al-Muhasibgi: 329 sabil-kuttab of Bashir Agha Dar Sa’ada: 309 sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda Mustahfizan: 150 wikala of Abu’l Rus (al-Danushari): (434) house and sabil of the amir ‘Abdallah (Katkhuda ‘Azaban): 452 restorations, of Ahmet III, in mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar. See 115 qa‘a and maq‘ad in the waqf al-Sha‘rani: 63 zawiya of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 214 house of ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi: 446 hawd, sabil, and manzil of Kur Abdallah: (421) mosque of al-Fakahani (Ahmad Katkhuda al-Kharbutli): 109 sabil-kuttab of Muhammad Katkhuda al-Dawudli: (427) hammam al-Gamaliya: U4. See also 480 mosque and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh ‘Ali al-Mutahhar: 40 sabil-kuttab of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 21 sabil-kuttab of ‘Umar Bey (Ibrahim Khulussi): 226 sabil and wikala of al-Manawi: (496) wikalat ‘Ain al-Gazal: U15 sabil and hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: 260 takiyya and sabil-kuttab of Sultan Mahmud: 308 mosque of Hasan al-Sha’rawi Katkhuda. See 428 sabil of Salim Agha: (429) sabil-kuttab of Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan: 33 mosque and sabil of Shaykh Muhammad (al-Ghurayib): 448 Bab al-‘Azab: 555 mosque of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya: (558) sabil-kuttab of ‘Ayesha al-Sutuhiya: (506) manzil al-Sadat al-Wafa‘iya: 463 maq‘ad in the house of al-Manawi: (334)
1172–73 / 1759
mosque of al-Hifni: (451) mosque of al-Khalawati (Dawud Agha): (414) 1173 / 1760 mosque of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda. See U116 1174 / 1761 sabil of the amir Khalil: 376 sabil-kuttab of Ruqayya Dudu: 337 1175 / 1762 mosque of Sayyida ‘Ayesha: (378) sabil, mosque, and tomb of Shaykh Ramadan: 436 1176 / 1762–63 wikalat al-Kharbutli: (367) before 1179 / 1765 hawd of ‘Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda: (404) 1180 / 1766 wikala of Bedawiya Shahin: 615 1181 / 1767 mosque of al-Khudayri: (552) 1186 / 1772 sabil in the waqf of Yusuf Bey: 262 1188 / 1774 hawd and sabil of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab: 62 mosque of Muhammad Bey Abu’l Dhahab: 98 1192 / 1778 house of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz: 235 1193 / 1779–80 sabil and house of Hasan (sabil Darb al-Masmat): (361) 1193 / 1779–88 palace al-Musafirkhana: 20 1195 / 1780 manzil and hammam al-Margush (al-Malatyali): (490), 592 tomb of Muhammad al-Anwar: 68 1199 / 1784 mosque of ‘Ali ibn al-Arabi and house of Muhammad al-Mahruqi: 459 ca. 1200 / 1785 mosque of Ahmad al-Dardir: U29 1201 / 1786 Bab al-Gabal: U81 1207 / 1792 mosque of Mahmud Muharran: 30 1211 / 1796 Bayt al-Sihaymi: 339 sabil-kuttab of Nafisa al-Bayda: 358 tomb and zawiya of Sidi Galal al-Assiuti: U110 wikala of Nafisa al-Bayda: 395 late 12th / 18th century house of al-Kashif: (500) maq‘ad, Shari‘ al-Ganibakiya: U49 before 1215–16 / 1800 hammam of Qalawun (al-Nahhasin): U16 tomb of ‘Abd al-Karim. See U130 wikalat al-Gulshaniya: U14 wikalat al-Nasharin (Sultan Inal): (422) zawiya of ‘Abd al-Karim: U130 French Occupation (AH 1213–1217 /
AD
1798–1801)
Muhammad ‘Alids (AH 1220–1372 / AD 1805–1953) 13th / 19th century Church of St. Mark: U132 Church of the Virgin, Harat al-Rum: 483 hammam al-Dud: U78 gate: U93 gate of the Bayt al-Qadi: 61
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hammam al-‘Adawi: (567) hammam al-Khalifa: U117 house of Sakna Basha: U125 house, Shari‘ al-Qirabiya: U48 industrial area in the Citadel: U95 madrasa of Sidi Shahin: U98 maqam of Muhammad Agha: U99 mosque of Anbar al-Nur: U131 mosque of Muhammad al-Buktumri: U123 mosque of Sa‘id al-Su‘ada: 480 synagogue, Karaite: U22 tomb of ‘Ali al-Amri: 426 tomb of Ibrahim al-Fawwar: U115 tomb of al-Marghani. See U55 wikalat al-Sayf: U33 13th (?) / 19th (?) structure in cemetery of century al-Ghurayib. See U25 tomb of Sidi al-Arbain: U122 1224 / 1809 mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir. See 210 1225 / 1810 takiyyat Mevleviya (Samakhana): U105 1227 / 1812 the Mint: 606 1229 / 1814 Gawhara Palace: 505 palace kitchens: U109 1233 / 1817 hawsh ‘Utay (wikala of Muhsin Ramadan): 499 mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir: 565 1233 / 1818 mosque of Kalamtay al-Gamali: U114 1236 / 1820 sabil of Tusun Pasha: 401 ca. 1236 / 1820 Arsenal (Topkhane): U92 1242 / 1826 Bab al-Gedid: U85 1243 / 1827 Harim Palace: 612 palace of Muhammad ‘Ali: U100 tower in Citadel enclosure: U51G 1244 / 1828 Dar al-Mahfuzat / Daftarkhana (Archives): 605 sabil of Isma‘il Pasha: 402 ca. 1244 / 1828 Army Barracks: U54 1246 / 1830 sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan: 420 ca. 1246 / 1830 Diwan of Schools: U83 1246–1300 / 1830–82 Bab al-Alam: U86 1253 / 1837 wikala of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 604 1253–55 / 1837–39 mosque of Sulayman Agha: 382 1261 / 1845 mosque of al-Gawhari: 462 1265 / 1848 mosque of Muhammad ‘Ali: 503 before 1267 / 1850 Muhammad ‘Ali-period palace: U133 1267 / 1850 zawiyat al-Arbain: (353) ca. 1267 / 1850 house, ‘Atfat al-Zelahi (Bayt Sukkar): U57 mosque of Ragab Agha: U47 tomb of Fatma al-Nabawiya: U37 ca. 1267 / 1851 sabil of Umm Husayn Bey: U36
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Arab Republic of Egypt (AH 1373 / AD 1953–present) 1377 / 1956 Tomb of Mustafa Kamil: U104 1410 / 1989 Sayyida Zaynab Children’s Park: U126 1416 / 1995 Archaeological Garden and Theater: U82
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Map Key Map key Urban fabric: outlined and infilled with diagonal
Unregistered structure without plan: outlined and
hatching.
infilled with closely spaced diagonal hatching;
(U371) Demolished urban fabric: dashed lines without infill.
U-series numbers.
Overhead structure within building enclosure (e.g., lintels or vaults): dotted line
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Spot heights: italicized numbers. +23.5
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