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62
THE REBIRTH OF COOL
Sophiatown, South Africa, has a musical renaissance. By Steve Knopper
70
THE HEMI Q&A
Betty White dishes on Hot topics. By David Carr
74
BOOM TOWN
How Bonnaroo transformed a tiny Tennessee town By Mya Frazier
80
THREE PERFECT DAYS: LONG ISLAND
Heading to the Hamptons—and beyond By Sarah Horne
Long Island’s most well-to-do beach town, East Hampton, isn’t bashful about its ritziness. Go to its Main Street to outfi t yourself with an Hermès scarf.
80P.
THE HORNS OF AFRICA In 1954, Sophiatown native Hugh Masekela plays a trumpet he received as a gift from Louis Armstrong.
THE REBIRTH OF COOL
SOPHIATOWN, THE SWINGING BIRTHPLACE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S SIGNATURE TOWNSHIP SOUND, WAS SILENCED UNDER APARTHEID RULE. SIXTEEN YEARS AFTER NELSON MANDELA’S HISTORIC ELECTION, THE BEAT GOES ON.
DANIEL MELETSKE, A DAPPER 72-YEAR-OLD GENTLEMAN
IN A PLAID SUIT COAT, has just handed me a gigantic palm frond, which I’m holding as we walk arm in arm. It’s Palm Sunday. He leads me down the street with a crowd of 40 or so other celebrants to an outdoor service in an empty lot.
We’re a few blocks from the Christ the King Church in Sophiatown, a suburb northwest of Johannesburg. A minister says a few words about the glory of God and then, on this cloudless South African morning, the singing begins.
I’m no hymn expert, but this is some of the most beautiful music I’ve ever heard. An elderly woman thumps out a slow beat on a hymnal. Meletske and the other men call out the deep verses; the women respond with high harmonies. It sounds like American gospel music, but there is an extra ingredient I can’t place, a rhythmic, distinctly African quality that frames the fl oating voices. Then the group, holding the tune, becomes a procession, walking slowly along the streets of Sophiatown to the church. Still carrying the frond, I fumble for the iPhone in my pocket and, trying not to distract Meletske, manage to record for 13 minutes.
We arrive at Christ the King, a wide, short building of red bricks and shingles. Inside the sanctuary, the clergymen and choir stand in front of a mural depicting Sophiatown history—Zulu tribesmen in masks, 1950s gangsters in suits, a modern kid in a backward cap. The congregation has swelled to some 150 people.
It’s hard for a visitor to tell today, but Sophiatown is the historic epicenter of African jazz, the Soweto sound and the “township jive” that came to America in Paul Simon’s 1986 album Graceland and the performances of Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and which continues to reverberate in the music of indie-pop darlings Vampire Weekend. It’s some of the most joyous and soulful music in the world. But nearly all evidence of its origins here have been erased. In 1955, during the early years of apartheid, the government began displacing the residents of Sophiatown, bulldozing their homes, and rebuilding the town as a whites-only enclave. Where music once spilled noisily into the streets from homes, churches, bars and schools, a suburban quiet settled in.
Now Sophiatown is free again, and former residents have returned to live here, but it’s still strangely quiet. I came to fi nd out where the music went.
PICTURE A SATURDAY EVENING IN SOPHIATOWN IN THE
EARLY 1950S: Some kids are playing pennywhistles on street corners. Others are hiding tubs of umqombothi, home-brewed beer made of sorghum and mystery ingredients, under grass and sticks, just in case the cops
show up. It’s a rough neighborhood, to be sure, known for its dandyish gangsters, dressed smartly in fedoras, pin-striped suits and two-tone Florsheim shoes imported from the U.S. Stompie Manana is waiting at the Odin Cinema to see the Kirk Douglas fl ick Young Man with a Horn about the American jazz cornetist Bix Beiderbecke—which will inspire Manana to pick up the trumpet himself and make it big. People are fi ling into the 39 Steps, a shebeen, or social house, on Good Street, where one of South Africa’s fi rst music stars, Dolly Rathebe, is belting out a few songs.
Back then, music was all over Johannesburg, especially the townships. But Sophiatown was the place to be. African-infl ected jazz was everywhere, and clubs were crowded with soon-to-be-discovered African jazz and jive greats. A beloved singer named Ma Joel performed with a percussionist on the street for pennies. Jazz record collectors were everywhere, and a young Dorothy Masuka would sit for hours in her friend Kwembo’s house, listening to Ella Fitzgerald and Sophie Tucker records. Weddings and funerals took over the town for hours, with hired brass bands playing dirges as though it were Bourbon Street. By the late 1950s, young Johannesburg talents such as Manana, fellow trumpeter Hugh Masekela and trombonist Jonas Gwangwa were appearing at the Modern Jazz Club on Sundays before movies at the Odin.
The way some describe Sophiatown in those days, it was like New Orleans in the ’30s, Harlem in the ’40s and Memphis in the ’50s, all rolled into one. Founded in 1897 when a property owner named Tobiansky created his own suburb and named it after his wife, Sophia, the town was home to both blacks and whites, all of them poor. By the 1940s, writes author Don Mattera in his 1989 book Sophiatown: Coming of Age in South Africa, “it was inhabited by an estimated 200,000 people of diff erent ethnic backgrounds who lived tightly knit, mixing cultures, traditions and superstitions in a manner perhaps unique in Southern Africa. Every conceivable space was occupied by a living thing—man or animal.” To outsiders, Sophiatown wasn’t romantic at all, just a crowded town full of brick-andiron shacks. “Some of the best-dressed people lived there, and some of the most educated people lived there,” says trumpeter Masekela, now an international star. “But it was still run-down.”
CHOIR SERVICE Opposite, inside Christ the King Church; above, clockwise from bottom left, a Newtown mural; the church exterior; the chorus singing; Jonas Gwangwa playing piano at home
WE’RE LOST. EMMANUEL, A TAXI DRIVER,
FLAGS DOWN a sunburned, white-haired man walking on the side of the road. Does he know how to get to the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre in Sophiatown? The man looks confused. “Oh!” he says suddenly. “You mean Triomf.”
Triomf. In Afrikaans, it means “triumph.” It’s the name
THE JAZZ SINGER Simphiwe Dana with Marcus Wyatt’s band at Sophiatown Bar Lounge in Newtown; opposite, the wall of the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre
the apartheid government gave to Sophiatown after the bulldozing ended in 1962. Promising safe, aff ordable housing, the government brought in whites to live literally atop the rubble of the old town. “It’s the worst name ever!” declares singer Abigail Kubeka, who spent much of her childhood in Sophiatown. “Triumph over people—the lives people had built here.” At 70 years old, Kubeka, with dangly earrings, a black fedora, a tiger-print dress and a commanding presence, is still a star in South Africa. She’s sitting at a table in the Huddleston Centre, a tidy brick bungalow named after a renowned white bishop who campaigned actively against apartheid. The center is part meeting place for artists and musicians and part museum, its walls covered with photos of the jazz singers, politicians (including Nelson Mandela) and journalists who once congregated here. In 2006, the post-apartheid government changed the suburb’s name from Triomf back to Sophiatown. The change was symbolic,
but hugely important for the musicians who hung around Sophiatown back in the day, including Kubeka, who as a teenager regularly confronted discrimination as she sang professionally throughout Johannesburg (and who eventually would become one of Miriam Makeba’s Skylarks). “During that time, there was the curfew law,” she recalls. “Blacks were not supposed to be in town after nine at night. AFRICAN BEATS A PRIMER ON THE SOPHIATOWN SOUND THE BEST OF MIRIAM MAKEBA: THE EARLY YEARS (2002) // Before the late Makeba became an international superstar, railing against apartheid everywhere she went, she sang with a variety of South African groups, from the Skylarks to the Manhattan Brothers. Her “Sophiatown Is Gone” is heartbreaking. VARIOUS ARTISTS, TOWNSHIP JAZZ N’ JIVE (1997) // This is a great sampling of early African jazz, including Andrew John Huddleston’s Jazz Band’s rock-solid, briskly melodic, American-infl uenced “Ndenzeni Na?” (featuring young horn players Hugh Masekela and Jonas Gwangwa). VARIOUS ARTISTS, NEXT STOP…SOWETO (2010) // Focusing on mbaqanga jams from the 1970s, “Next Stop” is a worthy successor to the 20-year-old “Indestructible Beat of Soweto” series, some of which is out of print. Check out how African jazz from the 1950s morphed into the funk workouts of Zed Nkabinde and Mahlathini and the Queens.
HAVING A BALL Faces of the new Sophiatown
So the police would wait for you outside. You’d leave the club, they’d take you to the police station, then you’d sleep over and go to court the following morning and pay the fi ne. You’d go back again to the club and do the same thing. It was a way of fi ghting the regime. We fought the system through our music—and through our persistence.” In the late ’50s and ’60s, as former Sophiatown residents dispersed into Meadowlands and other parts of Soweto, the African jazz of Masekela and Makeba drifted there too, evolving into a funkier, more rigidly rhythmic style known as mbaqanga, or township jive. Paul Simon tapped into this style on Graceland, collaborating with South African musicians such as Ladysmith Black Mambazo. From there, just as American funk morphed into hip-hop, township jive went electronic, fi rst as bubblegum, then as kwaito. One Saturday evening, Mduduzi Thusi, or Mdu, a 26-yearold Huddleston Centre tour guide who lives in Sophiatown, agrees to off er me a glimpse of how this music has evolved. We begin in Newtown, a rising Joburg neighborhood in which hip bars have opened in abandoned factories. An upscale restaurant here is actually called Sophiatown, and a wall mural inside depicts kids playing horns and pennywhistles. Outside, a plaque enshrines local jazz heroes such as Gwangwa and Masekela. As it happens, there’s no action in Newtown tonight—the Bassline club, which draws live rock and reggae bands, is closed till Monday, and the venerable Market Theatre is showing a play. So Mdu and his friend, Mpho, who drives a car with doors so rusted he describes it as a “moving sculpture,” take me to Soweto. This township is home to almost 900,000 residents, mostly black, who settled here during the apartheid era, when the government seized Johannesburg and the suburbs for themselves. We stop briefl y at Vilakazi Street, where Nelson Mandela lived in a tiny bungalow in the ’60s (it’s now a museum). Just down the street is Desmond Tutu’s former home.
We pass shacks and shanties, house parties spilling into the streets and street-corner food joints, eventually arriving at News Café, a dance club in a strip mall on the edge of the township. Some 150 people are here, drinking and dancing to the thumping house music of regional acts like Durban’s Finest and Black Coff ee. I am the only white person here, and one of the few older than 25. Mdu and his friends grab a table, then haul me to the dance fl oor. Soon Mdu is clapping in my face, like a dance instructor, and a dozen clubgoers are demonstrating impossibly twisty steps and insisting I not deviate from “the beat! The beat!”
This goes on until 2:30 a.m., by which point we are all drenched with sweat. Afterward, Mdu asks if I’ve found what I’m looking for. And while I’d actually pictured something more like a Hugh Masekela trumpet solo, the answer is defi nitely yes.
Rolling Stone contributing editor STEVE KNOPPER has traveled everywhere from Nashville and Harlem to the Mississippi Delta, but he’s never come across a place like Sophiatown. 69
THE HEMI Q&A
BY DAVID CARR
Betty White, beloved star of The Mary Tyler Moore Show and The Golden Girls, follows up her hosting turn on Saturday Night Live with a new series, Hot in Cleveland. Not bad for 88.
ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER
JUNE 2010
71
TWO BETTYS, BORN A YEAR APART IN THE 1920S, became famous for their prowess as homemakers: Betty Crocker, a fi ctitious fi gure created by General Mills in 1921, put a face on bags of cake mix. Betty White, born in 1922, helped create Sue Ann Nivens, the happy, hormonally charged homemaker on the classic sitcom The Mary Tyler Moore Show.
It’s hard to say which Betty is more famous at this point.
Betty White actually has limited culinary skills. “Meatloaf and spaghetti, but that’s about it,” she admits. “I’m hopeless.” But she has cooked up several iconic television characters, including the clueless Rose Nylund on The Golden Girls. She’s won four Emmys, received a lifetime achievement award from the Screen Actors Guild this past year and done myriad guest appearances, including spots on Ally McBeal, Boston Legal, The Practice and, of course, The Simpsons.
White turned 88 this year and doesn’t mind saying so. “Why kid? All these people have grown up with me on TV, so it doesn’t do any good to shave a few years off ,” she says. But she certainly hasn’t slowed down. When we talked, she was busy getting ready for a new gig, hosting Saturday Night Live.
What’s a nice lady like this doing on one of the most savage comedy shows on television? The most popular ad aired during the latest Super Bowl was a Snickers spot in which she’s shown (via the glories of special eff ects) playing football and being tackled in a mud puddle. White—actually portraying a young man rendered geriatric without a Snickers—comes back to the huddle panting, and the quarterback suggests she’s playing like an old lady. Hands on her knees, she sighs, “C’mon, man, you’ve been riding me all day.”
The commercial inspired the formation of an ad hoc committee on Facebook, demanding that the It lady of the moment host SNL. After half a million folks joined the cause, White was booked. And this month she returns to the form that made her a legend on TV Land’s new sitcom, Hot in Cleveland. The girl works.
White spoke to Hemispheres by phone from her Los Angeles home between gigs.
HEMISPHERES: You have a new show premiering this month called Hot in Cleveland. Why not just call it The Betty White Show? WHITE: I actually did a couple of television shows called The Betty White Show. In fact, I was going to do another one a while back, and I wanted to call it Yet Another Betty White Show, but they wouldn’t let me. I guess we’ve all had enough “Betty White.” HEMISPHERES: There’s no such thing as too much Betty. WHITE: Bless you. HEMISPHERES: Are you all fi red up to say, “Live, from New York, it’s Saturday night!” ? WHITE: I’m panic stricken, if you must know. HEMISPHERES: After six decades in television, you still get nervous? WHITE: Saturday Night Live is just so New York, and I’m not really very New York. HEMISPHERES: Meaning you’re friendly and you smell nice? WHITE: [Laughs] It’s just a diff erent attitude. I watch Saturday Night Live and enjoy it, but I never thought I’d be hosting it. If I don’t do well, they’ll say, “Why did we do that?” HEMISPHERES: Half a million people on Facebook certainly seemed to like the idea. WHITE: I don’t know where this came from, because I am such a klutz when it comes to technology. I don’t even have email. HEMISPHERES: Maybe those six Emmys of yours had something to do with it. WHITE: Why, thank you. I’ll admit it’s a thrill, and I never take it for granted. I’ve been in this wonderful business for sixty-two years, and the fact that I’m still working at eightyeight years old boggles my mind. HEMISPHERES: Early in your career, you shared in the syndication rights to your shows. Shrewd move. WHITE: Remember, when I started in television, television was just starting itself. We were sort of making it up as we went along, and at that point we didn’t know any better. It worked out very well, but now it is so much harder because so many people are involved, and it all ends up being part of a big negotiation. HEMISPHERES: Desi Arnaz decided early on that he would pay for taping live shows if he got to keep the tapes. The networks reasoned that no one would ever want to watch the same show twice. WHITE: That turned out pretty well for him.
WHITE HEAT // The actress in a headshot from the mid-’50s; The Mary Tyler Moore Show; The Golden Girls; and, opposite, Password. HEMI Q&A
HEMISPHERES: You’ve been called the First Lady of Game Shows for your many appearances as a guest star on Password, What’s My Line? and Match Game. Got a favorite? WHITE: Of course, I have to be prejudiced in favor of Password, because I fell in love with the man in the middle. HEMISPHERES: You outlasted fi ve diff erent hosts on that show and married Allen Ludden, who died in 1981. You’ve never remarried. WHITE: He is the love of my life. When you’ve had the best, who needs the rest? He’s still around, trust me. HEMISPHERES: Well, somebody’s certainly watching out for you. How did you end up together? WHITE: We met when he was the host on Password, and then he moved to New York. I wasted a year I could have been with him, because he kept asking me to move and I refused. I fi nally relented, and we did a summer stock show together called Critic’s Choice. There was a scene at the end where he would put his arms around me and kiss me. Well, I must say that last scene sometimes would last a little longer… HEMISPHERES: Sounds like you were a bit harder to get than your Mary Tyler Moore character, Sue Ann Nivens. WHITE: Well, she did get around, but she was also the happy homemaker who could cook anything and clean anything. They used to ask Allen in interviews, “How close to Sue Ann is Betty?” He’d say, “They’re really the same person except Betty can’t cook!” On the show, Sue Ann had a little aff air with Cloris Leachman’s character’s husband, and she always wondered why he came home with his clothes cleaner than when he went to work. HEMISPHERES: My, that’s sort of spicy. And yet, you told Diane Sawyer that you laid down the law with SNL: “No nudity.” WHITE: I turned down nudity back when it was even a possibility. It’s like humor. I think it’s what you don’t show that makes it interesting. HEMISPHERES: You clearly love what you do, but don’t you get a little tired of working all the time? At what point in your career are you going to have enough laurels to rest on? WHITE: I love working. Love it. I go in prepared to enjoy it instead of going in looking for the negatives. I always crack up at the people who start the conversation with, “You know what I hate?” If you don’t like something, then go in another direction, but cool the complaints. HEMISPHERES: What does bother you? WHITE: Unkindness or cruelty of any kind to anyone or any animal. The ones who mistreat animals mistreat each other as well. Right now, I’m sitting on the couch with Pontiac, a fi ve-year-old golden retriever. He has his head on my lap. HEMISPHERES: You’ve done a great deal of charitable work on behalf of animals. WHITE: Thanks for mentioning that. The Morris Animal Foundation is a health organization that helped develop the feline leukemia vaccine and the spiral virus vaccine for dogs, and we’re also involved in protecting the mountain gorillas. I’ve been working with them for forty-fi ve years. HEMISPHERES: What do you watch on TV? WHITE: I shouldn’t say this… HEMISPHERES: But now you must. WHITE: I don’t watch much television. I don’t have time. I haven’t had a day off in three years. I have a lovely weekend place in Carmel, and I haven’t been there in a long, long time. My friends go, but I never seem to fi nd the time. HEMISPHERES: Good lord, Betty, where are your priorities? WHITE: I never said I was good person.
DAVID CARR writes about media and entertainment for The New York Times. Like Mary Richards, he got his start in journalism in Minneapolis. 73
EVERY YEAR SINCE 2002, 80,000 FUN SEEKERS HAVE DESCENDED
ON TINY MANCHESTER, TENNESSEE, FOR THE BONNAROO MUSIC & ARTS FESTIVAL. FOR THE STRUGGLING TOWNSFOLK, THE FOUR-DAY EVENT IS MUCH MORE THAN A PARTY...IT’S A LIVING. BY MYA FRAZIER BOOM BOOM
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010
75 TOWN TOWN
NNOT THAT HE EVER HOLDS BACK, but the Boss is in rare form. His energy is unconstrained, his give and take with the audience an endless loop of goodwill. Maybe that’s what happens when you’re Bruce Springsteen and you’re playing in the warm summer air under a darkening sky in front of a delirious oversunned crowd, many of whom slept side by side on the same grassy fi elds the night before.
The Bonnaroo Music & Arts Festival isn’t Woodstock, though if you squint, it’s pretty close: an endless sea of people on 700 acres of fertile farmland where dairy cows once grazed and neat lines of soybean and corn grew tall in the peaty Tennessee soil. Here at Bonnaroo, on the outskirts of a town called Manchester, everything comes in abundance: tie-dyed T-shirts, sandals, feel-good vendors named it the best festival in the country and why, year after year, Bonnaroo draws acts as eclectic as Willie Nelson, Phish, Snoop Dogg, Erykah Badu and a kaleidoscope of others. (This year’s headliners include the Dave Matthews Band, Stevie Wonder, Jay-Z and a stand-up performance by Conan O’Brien.) Springsteen was speaking metaphorically about building (Ben & Jerry’s, homemade vegetarian burritos), beach balls, tents and—most important—spectators, who number nearly 80,000. Even the indefatigable Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band take it to the next level. A Telecaster slung behind his back, the Boss pauses in the middle of “Working on a Dream” and clutches the mic. “We didn’t come down to the beautiful hills of Tennessee just to rock the house,” Springsteen says, waving his arms and pontifi cating like an old-time preacher. “We came down here tonight because we want to build a house, right here in this fi eld.” It’s moments like these—and there are always plenty of moments at Bonnaroo—that explain why Rolling Stone has a house, but the fact is that the four-day Bonnaroo festival has built many a house in Manchester. Since it came into being just eight years ago, the festival has transformed the lives of the locals and infused new energy into a town struggling to rebuild a decimated manufacturing base. As the Boss says, “When it comes to luck, you make your own.” THE OFFSEASON IN MANCHESTER (POP. 9,442) is somewhat more subdued. The tie-dyed T-shirts are gone, mostly, though the occasional camper has been known to hop the fence and pitch a tent on the festival site. It falls 76 to Dale Green, Bonnaroo groundskeeper and a lifelong
WORLD PARTY A SELECTION OF THE PLANET’S MANY SUMMER FESTIVALS
ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI
COUNTRY THROWDOWN
NATIONWIDE THROUGH JUNE 20 A country music fest featuring Montgomery Gentry and Jamey Johnson.
countrythrowdown.com
THE DREAMING FESTIVAL,
AUSTRALIA JUNE 11–14 This nation’s largest indigenous arts festival offers everything from feasts to campfi re stories.
thedreamingfestival.com
GEORGIA PEACH FESTIVAL
JUNE 11–19 Nowhere else will you fi nd fi reworks, jazz, the Miss Georgia Peach Pageant and the world’s largest peach cobbler.
worldslargestpeachcobbler.com FESTIVAL DEL SOLE NAPA
VALLEY, CALIFORNIA JULY 16–25 Taste the world’s fi nest wine as some of the best chefs and classical musicians feed and entertain you.
festivaldelsole.com
STONEHENGE SUMMER
SOLSTICE SALISBURY, ENGLAND JUNE 21 This free, one-nightonly event is a gathering of modern-day druids and Stonehenge lovers. It’s also the only time you can actually touch the
monoliths. efestivals.co.uk
Manchester resident, to shoo them away. One spring afternoon, Green eases into the seat of his shiny new white Dodge pickup for a drive around the property. A steady drizzle falls on the windshield. As Bonnaroo’s only year-round groundskeeper, Green sees the site a way few others do: without the crowds. Today, hay fi elds stretch for what seems like miles, a budding green landscape broken only by the 20-foot-tall orange metal arch with “Bonnaroo” across the top and some white storage trailers parked haphazardly in lots. “I just love it out here right now,” says Green, who speaks in a low-pitched Tennessee drawl. “I come in, lock the gate, and I’m the only one here.”
Green navigates gravel roads and concrete bridges that make up the infrastructure of the festival grounds. He helped install much of it himself, including 58 power transformers on concrete slabs that symbolize the evolution of the Bonnaroo
CATCHING PHISH The Boss festival into something less temporary. When this year’s joins jam band Phish on the main stage for Bonnaroo’s closing night. four-day party gets underway on June 10, the lights and food booths will hook right into the grid instead of gaspowered generators, which are noisy, disruptive and not exactly “green.” Until the fi rst Bonnaroo festival in 2002, few Americans—in fact, few Tennesseans—had ever heard of Manchester. You might say that the festival put the city on the map, just like Woodstock, New York; Glastonbury, England; Montreux, Switzerland, and countless small towns around the world. If it is defi ned by anything, Manchester is defi ned by Bonnaroo. And like the original Woodstock (actually held in Bethel due to a last-minute snafu), the sleepy burg never really saw it coming. After all, in the history of a struggling small town’s economic development dreams, the one about the endless caravans of cars as far as the eye can see—like some eerie, real-life Field of Dreams—tends to get fi led under “Keep Dreaming.” Yet Bonnaroo’s debut drew an estimated 70,000 people and, so it’s said, turned the entire state of Tennessee into a
FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE PARIS JUNE 21 This citywide music fest features everything from classical quartets to reggae.
fetedelamusique.culture.fr GLASTONBURY FESTIVAL
PILTON, ENGLAND JUNE 23–27 The granddaddy of European music festivals is celebrating its 40th anniversary with U2, Willie Nelson and more.
glastonburyfestivals.co.uk CALCIO STORICO FLORENCE,
ITALY JUNE 24–26 Soccer players take to the fi eld in 15th century garb.
calciostorico.it
GRANADA INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND
MUSIC JUNE 24–JULY 14 Flamenco and more at churches, plazas and the
Alhambra. granadafestival.org
VANS WARPED TOUR
NATIONWIDE JUNE 25–AUGUST 15 A sometimes unholy marriage of hard rock and extreme sports.
vanswarpedtour.com
temporary parking lot. And it keeps happening, year after year.
Bonnaroo is the brainchild of Ashley Capps, CEO of Knoxville-based company AC Entertainment, who was inspired by both the massive European summer music festivals and by the feel-good vibe he experienced at Phish concerts. “Capps went after that subculture of fans clamoring for good music not being played by the mainstream,” says Jeff Cuellar, AC’s director of marketing. So far, Bonnaroo feels inextricably linked to the bucolic hills around Manchester. However, showbiz is a tough industry. Anything could happen.
That’s good news for local offi cials. Here’s why they’re so enthusiastic: In 2005, Bonnaroo fans spent $8.6 million in Coff ee County, and festival organizers dropped another $1.9 million. The total economic impact was estimated at $14 million, including $4.3 million in personal income created locally that year. Bonnaroo isn’t just fi lling up Manchester’s rainy-day fund, it’s funneling much-needed cash into government coff ers—$412,796 in one year alone—and creating an estimated 191 jobs. Green, the groundskeeper, never thought he would own a 105-acre farm before Bonnaroo. Last year, he bought one. Not to mention another bulldozer.
“I guess I’m the luckiest guy around,” Green says.
The Manchester Area Chamber of Commerce, a four-room offi ce in a two-story building, sits on a square in the center of town surrounded by law offi ces and the courthouse. Around the corner, there’s Baker
LILITH FAIR NATIONWIDE JUNE 27–AUGUST 16 This venerable celebration of women in music returns with a topnotch lineup: Cat Power, Emmylou Harris, the Go-Go’s
and more. lilithfair.com TASTE OF CHICAGO JUNE 30–JULY 4 The largest food festival in the Midwest feeds three million people in Grant
Park. explorechicago.org RHINE IN FLAMES RHINE
VALLEY, GERMANY SATURDAYS, JULY-SEPTEMBER A stunning fi ve-city fi reworks festival with medieval scenery as a
backdrop. rhein-in-fl ammen.com ROSKILDE FESTIVAL ROSKILDE,
DENMARK JULY 1–4 This rock fest includes Gorillaz, Alice in Chains and Patti Smith.
roskilde-festival.dk
ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL
NEW ORLEANS JULY 2–4 Janet Jackson, Gladys Knight, Alicia Keys and De La Soul are among dozens of soulful acts hitting NoLa.
essencemusicfestival.com
Brothers Drugs, a fi xture since the 1920s, and an H&R Block. That’s about it. The retail heart of the city left long before Bonnaroo arrived, spreading along busy thoroughfares closer to the four highway exits.
Coff ee County Mayor David Pennington and City of Manchester Mayor Betty Superstein sit side by side at the chamber’s long conference table, heaping praise on the festival and ticking off the list of economic benefi ts the area gets each year from Bonnaroo booths alone. Almost every nonprofi t and local organization in Manchester runs one. The proceeds pay for everything from band uniforms to
operating expenses for the youth baseball league. The chamber runs two booths and a general store that sells local tchotchkes. The annual take: At least $20,000. The Rotary parked cars for 48 hours and this year earned enough to build an amphitheater at the local recreation center. Another group earned $30,000 to pay for a skate park. The list goes on. “If they get it to where it’s permanent, where there are fi ve shows a year, Bonnaroo is going to be our base to build an industry in this community,” Pennington says, “an industry based on music.” Ask around, and it’s hard to fi nd someone who doesn’t benefi t from the festival. Sam McAllister owns a two-story house with a wraparound porch, and from his front door he can look down his long gravel driveway, which curves down an incline, and see the main road leading CIRCUS MAXIMUS to Bonnaroo. McAllister sold most of his 700 acres to Clockwise from left, revelers in the camping area; the Which stage; Bonnaroo in 2007 for $8.6 million—a better price than the going rate. and the main stage, Green himself had been toiling at his dad’s used car lot above, called when he took a job at the festival. At the time, he fi gured the What stage come next summer those out-of-town music folks might be looking for a local with a good bulldozer. “My father told me I lost my mind taking that job, that it won’t ever last,” Green recalls. “He said, ‘Bonnaroo will be out in two or three years and you won’t have nothing to do.’” Soon afterward, though, Green bought that farm of his. And he’s been busy ever since.
Freelance writer MYA FRAZIER is hoping she can fi nd her Birkenstocks.
MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL
MONTREUX, SWITZERLAND JULY 2–17 For two weeks, the silky sounds of jazz waft over the shores of Lake Geneva.
montreuxjazz.com
THUNDER MOUNTAIN
ROCKFEST NORTH DAKOTA JULY 8–10 Check out your favorite classic rock acts, such as Asia and Survivor.
rockdakota.com
OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL
PORTLAND, OREGON JULY 22-25 The largest collection of craft beer purveyors gathers for a long, sudsy weekend.
oregonbrewfest.com
GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL
GILROY, CALIFORNIA JULY 23-25 Remember to bring mints to this culinary celebration of all things garlic.
gilroygarlicfestival.com FUJI ROCK FESTIVAL NAEBA,
JAPAN JULY 30–AUGUST 1 Party in the shadow of Mount Fuji with Vampire Weekend and Massive Attack, among
others. smash-uk.com/frf10
MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL
ROCKLAND, MAINE AUGUST 4–8 The air crackles with the sound of snapping shells at this annual fête of the world’s tastiest crustacean.
mainelobsterfestival.com
PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS
D’ELEGANCE CARMEL,
CALIFORNIA AUGUST 11-15 Nowhere will you fi nd a more rarefi ed roundup of antique cars and the people who love them.
pebblebeachconcours.com
LONG ISLAND
Three Perfect Days
From the tony South Fork to its rustic northerly counterpart, Long Island is both a playpen for the well-to-do and a calming, cozy respite. // BY SARAH HORNE
83 DAY ONE Traipsing on Cooper’s Beach
84 DAY TWO Biking to Montauk
88 DAY THREE Exploring the North Fork
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GORDON GRANT (PREVIOUS SPREAD); THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BY COTO ELIZONDO/GETTY IMAGES, BY GORDON GRANT, COURTESY OF 1708 HOUSE (2) THE TWIN FORKS OF LONG ISLAND ARE QUITE THE ODD COUPLE, jutting into the Atlantic Ocean like a crocodile about to swallow Shelter Island. The bottom jaw of the beast, the South Fork, is a playground for the international jet set, featuring swank resort villages such as East Hampton and Amagansett, and even the occasional polo fi eld. The North Fork, once a briny haven for shipbuilders and farmers, has recently come into its own as a winsome, off -the-beaten-path destination for foodies and oenophiles (with some good, salty dive bars thrown in).
What they share are a regal, quiet beauty and a slant of light that can make even the most jaded world travelers stop in their tracks, awestruck. It’s no wonder, then, that hundreds upon hundreds of famous names have made the East End their summer home and that thousands still willingly brave the traffi c on Route 27 on humid weekends.
1DAY ONE Awake in a cloud of exuberantly preppy Ralph Lauren sheets in a graceful fourposter bed at the 1708 House (1), an old-fashioned B&B on Southampton’s Main Street. At breakfast, in the antiques-crammed formal dining room, you remember your posture and steel yourself for a day among the Social Register set. Stepping out into the sunshine on Main Street, you take in the trapped-in-time village. At a distance, with its church steeple peeking through the trees, genteel Southampton could be any well-preserved town in America. But the yellow Lamborghini careering around the corner gives you a hint that all is not quite as it seems. You pop into BookHampton (2), where the local gentry pick up their highbrow poolside reading, then check out Hildreth’s Department Store (3), a rambling relic that’s been in business here since 1842. Forget penny candy—this is where young wives have bought their scallop-edged throw pillows and rattan porch furnishings for generations. Next, stop in the Parrish Art Museum (4), a 19th century gallery with an impressive collection of paintings by the likes of Willem de Kooning, Roy Lichtenstein and Chuck Close, before perusing Jobs Lane’s (5) various shrines to resort wear. At Vilebrequin, you check out the baby blue swim trunks dotted with Adirondack chairs; at Harmont & Blaine, it’s corduroy pants in magenta or jade. Finally Stubbs & Wootton lures you in with a pair of velvet slippers. At the register you ponder yacht names. What has come over you? In your new duds, you stand a bit taller as you swan into Silver’s (6) to lunch (it’s a verb here) and watch Manhattan’s business elite twitching under the handwritten “No cell phones” sign. You order the house specialty, a mammoth $17 BLT like none
SIMON DOONAN // CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BARNEYS // “The best hangout is Sunset Beach on Shelter Island. We tend to avoid the bacchanalian evening scene. Lunch is fab and great for celeb spotting.”
INN STYLE Above, the 1708 House; top, Cooper’s Beach; opposite, an East Hampton beach
GREY GARDENS // REMEMBERING A COUPLE OF CHARACTERS // In its glory days, Grey Gardens, a graceful 14-room estate in East Hampton, was home to the pedigreed Bouvier Beale clan (cousins of Jackie Kennedy). When Jackie’s aunt
Edie Beale divorced in 1946, the mansion began its descent into disrepair. Together, bohemian “Big Edie” and her eccentric daughter “Little Edie” lived a secluded life among 52 cats and the remnants of their once-grand life. In 1975, the women became the subject of the Maysles brothers’ haunting documentary Grey Gardens (later a Broadway show). Today, the estate is owned by Ben Bradlee and Sally Quinn. Wrangling an invite can be tough, but if you want to drive past for a peek, ask a local nicely where it is.
you’ve ever tasted: thick slabs of warm Eli’s Tuscan bread, rashers of smoky bacon and a generous slathering of mayo. Your cardiologist might be alarmed, but not to worry: You’re about to off set the meal with a hearty walk. Hop in your Jaguar XK convertible and drive through the village’s Estate Section (privet hedge–lined streets packed with nine-bedroom “cottages”) before you fi nd Gin Lane and the beach. Park near St. Andrew’s Dune Church (7), an old life-saving station turned seaside chapel, and doff your shoes before climbing up the slope to Cooper’s Beach (8). Walk east until the sunbathers thin out and it’s just you and the locals in their rolled-up khakis, letting their Labradors stretch their legs. Then fi nd a spot in the dunes to take in the gnashing Atlantic.
After walking until your calves begin to protest, you drive around Lake Agawam to Meadow Lane, top down, listening to the fi rm pop of the tennis balls at the prestigious Meadow Club (9) and peeking at the slivers of vast houses down ominously long private driveways.
Then it’s back to your lodgings for a quick snooze before you freshen up for dinner at Red/Bar Brasserie (10), a Mediterranean eatery in a sprawling farmhouse that served as a speakeasy during Prohibition. In honor of the repeal, sidle up to the bar before positioning yourself at a corner table to watch the jovial crowd while you dine on Malpeque oysters and black truffl e–stuff ed chicken breast. It’s good to be king.
2DAY TWO Stretch your limbs and begin packing your bag. Before checking out, ask for a voucher for breakfast across the street at The Golden Pear Cafe (1), where you’ll order a bagel and coff ee and check your portfolio in the New York papers.
Back in the Jag, you turn up Hampton Road to Route 27 and head farther out on the South Fork, wending your way through the villages of Water Mill and Bridgehampton, where you follow in the footsteps of Truman Capote and Jackie Kennedy and stop for a caff eine top-up at the Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen (2). This is the Hamptons institution where CEOs connect with their inner fi ve-year-olds, indulging in burgers and fries followed by double cones packed with mint chocolate chip ice cream.
Arriving in East Hampton, you check into The Hedges Inn (3), a polished inn
GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENER A croquet tournament in Southampton; above, Nick & Toni’s
CHASING WINDMILLS
Clockwise, a cyclist in Southampton; a Bridgehampton windmill; East Hampton Main Street; Job’s Lane in Southampton
GATSBY COUNTRY // THE NORTH SHORE’S GREAT ESTATES // Families of the Gilded Age chose to build their mammoth estates on Long Island’s North Shore. Several are now open to the public, giving a look into the curiously outsize lives of William K. Vanderbilt II, Teddy Roosevelt and the like. At Sagamore Hill, the Roosevelts’ retreat in
Oyster Bay, walls are decked with buffalo heads and the great room is fl anked by two tusks of an elephant once owned by the emperor of Abyssinia. At the Vanderbilt Museum in Centerport, there are shrunken heads from the South Pacifi c and jellyfi sh preserved in formaldehyde. Look out across the water from the veranda, and you'll swear you see the light twinkling at the end of Jay Gatsby’s dock.
IN THE ABSTRACT Above, the Pollock-Krasner House
overlooking a pond where swans bask in the dappled light. Where Southampton looked quaint at fi rst glance, East Hampton is less coy about its ritziness. On its Main Street, there are ample opportunities to shop for diamonds, swathe yourself in Hermès scarves or drop thousands on alligator-skin bags.
Yearning to see what the area was like before all the fuss, you head into Springs, the Hamptons’ more workaday, bohemian enclave north of Montauk Highway, and pull up at a simple farmhouse, the Pollock-Krasner House (4), where Jackson Pollack lived with his wife, Lee Krasner, from 1945 until he died in 1956. In the barn studio where he laid his canvases, trade your shoes for slippers and walk across the fl oorboards where his stray splatters have been lovingly preserved.
Next, drive south to Amagansett for lunch at La Fondita (5), a surprisingly authentic roadside spot. Order the Baja-style fi sh tacos and grab a table outside, feeling lazy in the noontime sun. Yes, that is Gwyneth Paltrow in her yoga clothes at the next table. Act like a local—pretend you don’t notice.
At the nearby Amagansett Beach & Bicycle Co. (6), you leave the Jag behind. Rent a bike for the afternoon and grab a map before setting off down the Old Stone Highway to check out Napeague Bay (7). Have a look at the refurbished fi shing shacks on stilts at the end of Gerard Drive, then make your way back to the beach at Louse Point to watch the windsurfers skim across the bay. Now on a quest for land’s end, you pedal east on Montauk Highway, coasting through miles of Russian olive trees and scrub pine and into Montauk’s Hither Hills State Park. It’s a challenge to bike the salty old hills of salty old Montauk, but when you spot the 1797 Montauk Point Lighthouse (8) ahead, it all seems worth the eff ort. At nearby Money Ponds, where Captain Kidd is said to have buried untold treasures, you scan the horizon for pirates.
Seeing none, you ride back at a leisurely pace, return your bike and head to the Hedges for a hot shower. Once you’ve recovered from your exertions, it’s on to Nick & Toni’s (9), an unassuming but luxe nightspot where Hollywood royals gather for well-executed Italian fare. Order the rich goat cheese risotto and the day’s catch served with vegetables from the North Fork’s Satur Farms. Air-kiss Steven Spielberg on your way out.
OLIVIA CHANTECAILLE
// CREATIVE DIRECTOR, CHANTECAILLE COSMETICS // “I love to do a beach picnic from Round Swamp Farm. They sell delicious local produce and prepared foods. My favorites are the chicken salad and the freshly baked pies.”
Hill St.
Great Plains Rd. 9 1 10
1
2 4 3 5 6
S. Main St. 7
8
Long Island Sound
7
Southold
6 5
Greenport
Gardiners Bay
4
Shelter Island
Sag Harbor 2 1 3 2
Bridgehampton 4
Springs
7
3 9 5 6
Amagansett East Hampton
inset area
Southampton Montauk 8
0 4 Miles
THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS
DAY ONE (1) 1708 House 126 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-287-1708 (2) BookHampton 91 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0270 (3) Hildreth’s Department Store 51-55 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-2300 (4) Parrish Art Museum 25 Jobs Ln., Shouthampton; Tel: 631-283-2118 (5) Jobs Lane (6) Silver’s 15 Main St., Southampton, Tel: 631-283-6443 (7) St. Andrew’s Dune Church 12 Gin Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-3015 (8) Cooper’s Beach 268 Meadow Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0247 (9) Meadow Club 555 1st Neck Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0425 (10) Red/Bar Brasserie 210 Hampton Rd., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0704 DAY TWO (1) The Golden Pear Cafe 99 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-8900 (2) Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen Sag Harbor Turnpike & Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-537-9885 (3) The Hedges Inn 74 James Ln., East Hampton; Tel: 631-324-7101 (4) Pollock-Krasner House 830 Springs Fireplace Rd., East Hampton; Tel: 516-324-4929 (5) La Fondita 74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; Tel: 631-267-8800 (6) Amagansett Beach & Bicycle 624 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; Tel: 631-267-6325 (7) Napeague Bay (8) Montauk Point Lighthouse 2000 Montauk Hwy., Montauk; Tel: 631-668-2544 (9) Nick & Toni’s 136 North Main St., East Hampton; Tel: 631-324-3550 DAY THREE (1) Sylvester & Co. 103 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-5012 (2) The Sag Harbor Whaling Museum 200 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-0770 (3) The American Hotel 25 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-3535 (4) Shelter Island (5) Greenport (6) Coronet 2 Front St., Greenport; Tel: 631-477-9834 (7) North Fork Table & Inn 57225 Main Rd., Southold; Tel: 631-765-0177
SEE FOOD Clockwise from above, hamachi with ginger, shallots and micro cilantro from the North Fork Table & Inn; owners Claudia Fleming and Gerry Hayden; and Greenport Harbor
Boarding pass
Whether you come to visit Fire Island National Seashore or the Hamptons, you can fl y United to La Guardia or JFK and experience all that Long Island has to offer 3 DAY THREE Open your eyes in your serene, white-on-gray room, relishing the priceless luxury of silence before you grudgingly pack your bags, take breakfast on the patio downstairs and hop in the car to make your way to Sag Harbor. Peek into Sylvester & Co. (1), the modern general store on Main Street, for a glimpse at decor that will look just as good in your pied-à-terre or suburban bungalow as it will in your beach house. Next stop is The Sag Harbor Whaling Museum (2), housed in a 19th century mansion that’s now part Masonic temple, part mariners’ time capsule. See whaling ship captains’ licenses signed by the likes of George Washington and Andrew Johnson juxtaposed with intricately carved bones and dastardly-looking spears. Portraits of prominent, long-dead townsfolk glare down at you indignantly as if to say, “Flip-fl ops? Really?”
Walk down to the harbor, scanning for megayachts and pleasure craft disguised as lobster boats (codesigned by Billy Joel), before heading to The American Hotel (3) for lunch on the porch. If so inclined, toast your fi nal moments on the South Fork with a glass of chardonnay from the Wolff er Estate Vineyards in nearby Sagaponack and some Gardiners Bay oysters.
Seeking a more rustic setting, you head to the Shelter Island (4) car ferry and buy a oneway ticket. After the short trip across the bay in the breezy summer heat, you wind your Jag through the backroads of Shelter Island, where battered Volvos rule the road. For a complete retreat make your way to Ram Island, across a narrow causeway, and do some beach combing. In this secluded spot, it’s almost impossible to believe that the glitzy madness of the Hamptons is just a stone’s throw away.
Continue your adventure by taking the North Ferry to Greenport (5) on the North Fork. You sense that you’re discovering an unspoiled, lovely little town as you wander Front Street, peeking into the window of the Coronet (6), a throwback diner that’s little changed since the 1940s. Take a detour to the miniscule hamlet of Orient (population: 709) for a real sense of how unchanged life on the North Fork can be. Flags fl it langorously on the porches of whitewashed houses, while three old-timers sit about watching the game in the general store, impervious to your presence.
As the afternoon light begins to deepen, you head to the North Fork Table & Inn (7), your home for the night, and settle in for an evening in locavore heaven, thanks to the fertile farmlands of the area.
Around you, elegant city dwellers and locals alike gather around the white linen–covered tables. There’s a happy, casual din as you tuck into your succulent orange-glazed Berkshire pork loin. Like Goldilocks, you think, you’ve gorged on the glamour of the South Fork, tasted the solitude of Shelter Island and have fi nally gotten it just right. SARAH HORNE is never coy about her ritziness.
ROMAN ROTH // WINEMAKER, WOLFFER ESTATE VINEYARDS // “I enjoy playing golf at Montauk Downs, having lunch at the Beacon in Sag Harbor and watching Elvis movies at the Bay Street Theater.”
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE
California Cool
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S BEACHES, HOLLYWOOD’S GLAMOUR AND SAN FRANCISCO’S QUIRKY CHARM
are part of a long-term fascination with the Golden State. Starting during the mid-19th century gold rush, people have been flocking here in search of a better life. And you know what? All those people just might be on to something. The weather is beautiful, the terrain is diverse and the cities are hives of culture. Beyond it’s surface charms, California is leading the charge in eco-friendliness. It’s per capita energy use is the lowest of any state, and it’s on the cutting edge of alternative energy research. It’s also a major player in movements such as eating locally sourced food—which also goes a long way toward making California home to some of the best restaurants in the United States. The Golden State is also an outdoorsman or woman’s paradise. It has mountains for skiing or hiking, deserts for trekking and miles after miles of beaches for swimming or just enjoying the sand and sun. Movie buffs will enjoy a different type of outdoor activity: celeb-spotting. All the big names in film make their homes in sunny California, and while it’s mostly because all of the big studios are in Hollywood, we also think it’s because they just love it so much. Who wouldn’t?
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE I STAY & PLAY
Live It Up, Slow It Down at LA’s Oceanfront Resort
MAGNIFICENTLY SITUATED OCEANFRONT, just minutes from Los Angeles, Terranea Resort is a quiet haven of luxury and relaxation. Close to city life, yet tucked away from the hustle and bustle, the resort is an ideal destination for intimate couples’ retreats or fun family getaways.
Guests at Terranea have their choice in premium accommodations. 360 welcoming guest rooms are bathed in California sunshine and inviting coastal décor, each opening out to a private balcony. Those desiring more space and privacy can opt to stay in residential-style Villas, Bungalows and Casitas, featuring kitchens and a comfortable at-home feel.
Seven ocean-view restaurants off er a variety of fl avors, including Catalina Kitchen for casual all-day dining, mar’sel, the signature restaurant, and Nelson’s, a cliff -side restaurant and bar. A number of smaller venues off er everything from sandwiches to gourmet coff ee to poolside snacks.
Terranea’s 102-acre setting invites guests to engage in activities like hiking, biking, swimming in three pools or trying their luck at The Links, a dramatic 9-hole oceanfront course. Whale watching, kayaking and other ocean activities are also available. The indulgent Spa at Terranea pampers with an array of unique treatments inspired by the ocean. Guests wishing to prolong their stay at Terranea can do so with a number of ownership options off ering all the amenities of this exceptional resort. Call 310.802.7460 for more details.
Come to Terranea. Return to togetherness. Call 866.248.4474 or visit www.escapetoterranea.com
100 Terranea Way Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 90275 (866) 248-4474 www.escapetoterranea.com
The Balboa Bay Club & Resort
TREAT YOURSELF to the only waterfront resort in Newport Beach–a sophisticated, yet relaxed Four-Diamond Resort with 160 spacious & plush guest rooms. Resort amenities feature: swimming pool/ whirlpool, workout facility and a full service Spa. Water activites and boat rentals are available at the resort’s own marina. Fine cusine at The First Cabin Restaurant, specializing in steaks & seafood, with extensive wine list and breathtaking bay views. Live music nightly at Duke’s Place lounge. Great value getaway packages!
Balboa Bay Club & Resort 1221 West Coast Highway Newport Beach, CA 92663 (949) 645-5000 www.balboabayclub.com
Silverado Resort
SILVERADO, the only full service golf and spa resort in Napa and the Wine Country. Experience the history, natural beauty and exceptional service of this breathtaking destination.
More than just a room. And, everything is right here! Golf, Spa, Full Service Conference Center, Tennis, Bocce, Biking and Fine Dining. Silverado has all you would expect from Napa’s premier resort. Plan a meeting, bring the family or just escape to enjoy the Silverado experience. Relax, Rejuvenate . . . and Stay Connected
Silverado Resort 1600 Atlas Peak Rd. Napa, CA. 94558 (707) 257-0200 (800) 532-0500 www.silveradoresort.com
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE I REAL ESTATE
Live / Work…and Play
COME SEE WHAT THE BUZZ IS ABOUT.
Enjoy LA’s best lifestyle, at the heart of Venice, 2 blocks from the beach. Dynamic space that is customized to your vision, whether your use is geared toward residential, offi ce or commercial. Soaring ceilings, polished concrete and plank fl ooring, with fi replaces in every loft. Lofts range from 1,400 - 2,800 sq. ft. and are priced from the low $800,000’s.
Dogtown Station lofts is a creative community, where residents include a screenwriter, an independent movie director, several producers, a fi ne arts dealer, a music manager and a playwright. We have a reputation for creating the best lofts in LA.
Take a video visit and see how some of our loft owners live. (www.TownandHood.com)
Andy McMullen, SCO Advisors, Inc. amcmullen@scoadvisors.com Lic #01260378
San Diego’s Newest Downtown Tower Bayside By Bosa
DELIVERING HOMES AND A
LIFESTYLE unlike any other, Bayside by Bosa has kicked off the year with over 40 homes sold in 2010. This translates to success with more than 130 homes sold since its fall 2009 grand opening.
“Reaching this sales milestone in a relatively quick time period is an indicator that buyers understand a great home at a great price,” Bosa CEO and President Nat Bosa said.
All Bayside residences are backed by Bosa’s long-standing reputation in the San Diego marketplace. In addition to an array of fi ve star amenities homes feature only the highest quality construction materials and fi nishes including gleaming marble stone and hardwood fl ooring, Italian-made Snaidero cabinetry, CaesarStone countertops, and Viking and Miele appliances.
Bayside off ers a multitude of two bedroom fl oor plans including three level town homes and expansive penthouses starting from the $500,000s.
1325 Paci c Highway San Diego, CA 92101 (619) 239-2339 866-939-2672 toll free www.baysidebybosa.com
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE
Welcome to Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards
NESTLED IN THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY IN SONOMA
COUNTY, California Sonoma-Cutrer has long been known for its commitment to crafting exceptional wines, vintage after vintage. We invite you to experience our uncompromising dedication to excellence and look forward to creating lasting relationships with those who are passionate about fi ne wine.
Please stop by on your next trip to Sonoma County for a tour of our winery and tasting room. To make an appointment, please call 1.800.853.5311.
If you cannot visit the winery, please visit us online at www.sonomacutrer.com or become an esteemed member of our Club Cutrer. Here you will have the opportunity to purchase wine directly from our winery and enjoy access to exclusive events and personal service from our Club Cutrer Concierge (www.clubcutrer.com)
Sonoma-Cutrer 4401 Slusser Rd. Windsor, CA 95492 1-800-853-5311 www.sonomacutrer.com
Do You Speak Sonoma?
SONOMA WINE COUNTRY HAS
ITS OWN LINGO. Here’s a guide to start speaking like a local.
Spa (v.) Actively seeking relaxation in more than 40 spas that off er pampering and healing powers to enhance your wine country vacation.
Taste (v.) Synonym of “sip.” Try wine from more than 300 wineries that are open to the public. Pair it with amazing food from hundreds of Zagat- and Michelin-rated restaurants.
Coast (v.) (n.) N: Not just any wine region, more than 55 miles of dramatic Pacifi c coastline ensures perfect pinot pairs with delightful Dungeness crab. V: Meander through America’s premier wine, coast and spa destination. Discover (v.) Free visitor guide and wine map at www.sonomacounty.com.
Text (v.) Receive wine country specials, text “wine” to 95495.
Sonoma County Tourism Bureau (800) 576-6662 www.sonomacounty.com
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE
Re ned, Rustic Italian Fare
RECENTLY GIVEN 3 STARS for food by Michael Bauer of The San Francisco Chronicle, Emporio Rulli’s fl agship RISTOBAR boasts beautifully prepared Italian food that you won’t fi nd elsewhere, such as pasta with yellow pepper puree, chicken crusted in almonds, and cardoon custard. Their calling card is an extensive delicious dessert menu with more than a dozen choices each night. If you think that’s impressive, wait until you see the wine list…
Please also visit our Emporio Rulli coff ee bars locations inside San Francisco International Airport: Terminal 3, Gate 79, and International Terminal North and South Food Courts & Lower Level Arrivals.
RISTOBAR 2300 Chestnut Street San Francisco’s Marina District (415) 923-6464 www.ristobarsf.com
Ghirardelli Square
GHIRARDELLI SQUARE, one of San Francisco’s most treasured icons, has been transformed into an urban enclave of specialty boutiques, fi ne dining restaurants, premium wine tasting shops, and private residence club homes at Fairmont Heritage Place.
Enjoy a famous Ghirardelli Ice Cream Sundae anytime - or for a real treat attend the 15th Annual Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival on September 11-12, 2010 to see the Earthquake Ice Cream Sundae Eating Contest and taste hundreds of chocolate creations.
Ghirardelli Square 900 North Point Street (at Beach & Larkin) (415) 775-5500 www.GhirardelliSQ.com www.FairmontHeritagePlace.com/Ghirardelli
Michalopoulos Gallery
THE MICHALOPOULOS OCTAVIA’S HAZE GALLERY The Michalopoulos Octavia’s Haze Gallery is located in the heart of Hayes Valley in San Francisco and showcases the artwork of internationally renowned artist James Michalopoulos. To step inside the gallery is to be inspired by vibrant abstraction of the fi gurative. Dimensions are pushed and pulled in the same way that people move and breathe and color abounds. His paintings are a celebration and can be found in the keynote collections of celebrities, museums, and notable art patrons internationally. The gallery is located at 498 Hayes Street, San Francisco, CA 94102. www.michalopoulossf.com 415-255-6818.
The Michalopoulos Gallery 498 Hayes Street San Francisco, CA 94102 (415) 255-6818 www.michalopoulos.com
Family Classic Cars
A UNIQUE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CLASSIC CAR
SHOWROOM with clients around the globe. A friendly atmosphere, knowledgeable people, and informative website attract seasoned collectors and fi rst time buyers alike.
We always stock a wide array of historically signifi cant collector cars and classics. We cover all time periods from turn of the century, pre-war classics, 50’s and 60’s, and late model exotic and collectibles.
We have been on the scene for ten years and have sold some of the fi nest collector cars to our ever widening family of clients. This gives us the opportunity to pull from some great collections around the world to source the best and rarest of automobiles.
Our beautiful facility has an amazing gift shop, customer storage, and a large service area to maintain our clients’ wide variety of cars. Stop in or visit us at www.familyclassiccars.com
Family Classic Cars 33033 Camino Capistrano San Juan Capistrano, CA (949) 496-3000 www.familyclassiccars.com
CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE
Xanadu Gallery
WHEN IN SAN FRANCISCO Xanadu Gallery located in the Frank Lloyd Wright building near Union Square should not be missed. There you will experience not only the world renowned building but exceptional works of art from Asia and Oceania. Xanadu Gallery specializes in Buddhist sculpture dating from the 2nd to the 18th century as well as unique jewelry that range from excavated Roman beads to turquoise and coral from the Himalayas.
Xanadu Gallery LLC 140 Maiden Lane San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 392-9999
The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum
ONE OF CALIFORNIA’S “MUST-SEE” ATTRACTIONS– guests tour through an actual Air Force One that served seven U.S. presidents, view an exact replica of the Oval Offi ce, visit President Reagan’s Memorial Site and more. Two restaurants and breathtaking grounds round out your visit. Mention Hemispheres and receive 50% off through 11/1/10.
The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum 40 Presidential Drive Simi Valley, California 93065 800-410-8354 www.reaganlibrary.com
How Fresh Is Your Olive Oil?
WHEN IT COMES TO GREAT TASTE IN OLIVE OIL, FRESH IS BEST. You may be surprised to learn that some of the fi nest extra virgin olive oil is not imported, but made right here in the USA. Our authentic California Olive Ranchers use the most advanced methods to grow, harvest and press the fi nest, sustainably grown olives, at the peak of perfection. We press our olives within hours of harvest, to seal in our distinctive fresh taste. Discover delicious recipes at californiaoliveranch.com. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter. The New Taste of Fresh!
California Olive Ranch 2675 Lone Tree Road Oroville, CA 95965 (916) 239-2999 custserv@cal-olive.com. www.californiaoliveranch.com
Revolutionizing Global Leadership
RANKED #1 BUSINESS SCHOOL IN THE UNITED STATES BY THE ECONOMIST MAGAZINE.
At UC Berkeley, executives have abundant resources at their fi ngertips, from Nobel Laureate faculty and national laboratory research to the vibrant ecosystem of the Silicon Valley. These tools, engaged in one of the most dynamic learning environments in the world, combine to create a powerful experience for business executives seeking a competitive edge.
UC Berkeley’s Center for Executive Education off ers a portfolio of programs developed by academia’s and industry’s most forward-thinking minds. For companies requiring a more specialized approach, we also off er customized programs that address specifi c organizational challenges and goals. We look forward to partnering with you.
University of California, Berkeley Haas School of Business Center for Executive Education 2220 Piedmont Avenue Berkeley, California 94720 (510) 642-9167 1-877-822-3932 executive@berkeley.edu www.executive.berkeley.edu/united
Fire Magic Premium Grills
BE INSPIRED IN YOUR OWN BACKYARD,
For over 70 years, Fire Magic Premium Grills have set the standard for backyard grilling.
With brilliant construction and unparalleled performance, features include Heat Zone Separators for diverse temperature zones, electronic push-to-light hot surface ignition that ignites in any weather, cast stainless steel burners for exceptional heat distribution, built-in LCD digital meat/grill thermometer, heavy-duty rotisserie motor and spit rod, lifetime warranty and more. Savor your outdoor cooking events with Fire Magic.
www.rhpeterson.com
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