PASSION BEHIND THE PRODUCT Ziba Foods

Ziba Foods

These fl avorful new products are helping restore Afghanistan’s reputation as a world leader in unique gourmet ingredients.

BY NEIL ZEVNIK

Mention Afghanistan today, and it immediately conjures images of danger, destruction, and despair. But there was a time not that many years ago when its beautiful countryside was a major source of exceptional dried fruits and nuts—before confl ict and its consequences intervened.

When Patrick Johnson and Ra Vartanian fi rst visited the country, they experienced the daily ritual of afternoon tea accompanied by a beautiful spread of dried fruits and nuts. “We were blown away by the taste and variety. Listening to our friends and their family speak so proudly of the products that were once considered the best quality in the world, we knew we wanted everyone to enjoy this discovery in the same way we did.”

That, of course, was easier said than done in this strife-riven country. It took several years and many visits to select suitable products (there were 109 varieties of almonds alone), create a sustainable supply chain, and build a factory. Once that was accomplished, Johnson and Vartanian got their artisanal heirloom products in front of some eager, high-end New York chefs, and Ziba Foods was launched.

Deep Roots

Drawing from centuries of agricultural traditions that relied upon both cultivated and wild-foraged fruits and nuts, Johnson and Vartanian were able to source unique off erings such as wild white mulberries and pistachio kernels, tree-dried

“We were blown away by the taste and variety,” Ziba founders Patrick Johnson and Ra Vartanian say of their fi rst exposure to Afghan cuisine. “We knew we wanted everyone to enjoy this discovery in the same way we did.”

apricots and sun-dried fi gs, Parwan walnuts and Kishmish raisins, and Gurbandi almonds.

But the pair had more than just cuisine and commerce in mind. They envisioned a company that would disrupt the imbalance between farmers and traders, pay farmers quickly and fairly, guarantee quality, and restore the reputation of Afghan products.

But their aspirations went even deeper in their desire to improve the lives and conditions of the farmers and communities that they helped support. “Some aspects of operating in Afghanistan can be extremely frustrating—security is often an issue, social norms are certainly not what we’re used to. It can be really di cult, as quite a bit of responsibility rests on our shoulders, for our employees and their families, the communities they live in, and our farmers. It starts adding up, and so our decisions have a deeper impact.”

Driving Change

Since Afghan women are often marginalized, Ziba maintains a workforce that is 85 percent female. Employment is year-round despite the cyclical nature of harvesting, and employees are off ered industry-related training. Johnson and Vartanian sum it up beautifully: “We reached a point in life where it was no longer a tenable proposition to lament our day-to-day work and wonder ‘What else can we be doing with our lives?’ We love making the connection to consumers who are excited to try new products. But we’re also drawn to the developmental aspects of our work—the impact we have on the ground. It’s extremely rewarding to participate in that transformation.”

make it!

Stu ed Pacific Cod with Almonds & Herbs

Serves 4

Serve this light summer supper dish with sa ron rice and steamed asparagus for a warm-weather treat!

4 6-oz. filets of Pacific cod (or similar white fish) 2 Tbs. Ziba Foods Heirloom Gurbandi

Almonds, chopped 2 Tbs. Ziba Foods Dried White Mulberries 3 Tbs. chopped Italian parsley, divided 2 Tbs. chopped cilantro 1 tsp. microplaned Meyer lemon zest 2 Tbs. fresh Meyer lemon juice, divided 2 Tbs. O Olive Oil Meyer lemon olive oil, divided

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice into side of each cod filet to make a pocket. 2. In small bowl, stir together almonds, mulberries, 2 Tbs. parsley, cilantro, lemon zest, 1 Tbs. each lemon juice, and 1 Tbs. olive oil. Divide mixture among filets, stu ng into pockets. 3. Place fish on parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet, and bake until opaque and just cooked through, 10–12 min-

utes. While fish is baking, whisk together remaining lemon juice and olive oil. 4. Transfer fish to individual plates or serving platter, drizzle with lemon and olive oil, and garnish with remaining chopped parsley.

Per serving: 220 cal; 27g prot; 9g total fat (1.5g sat fat); 5g carb; 80mg chol; 520mg sod; 1g fiber; 3g sugar