"The mall is thus a theatre where consumers can create their own world and fantasise their parts in a play. Retailers provide the staging, props, lighting, and mannequins" (Kowinski 1985). Drawing on examples from the nineteenth to the twenty-first century, outline the part played by architecture in achieving this shopping environment.'
Shopping’s environment is closely related to people’s hedonic activities and is represented by visual representation provided by the retailers. Some writers conceptualise shopping malls as a theater where the consumer can create their own role in a play based on what they see and interpret. Visual representation of mall that is bounded and protected from the outdoor controls semiotic messages of consumers and influence their emotions and response (Kowimski, 1985). The depiction of retail interiors and its atmosphere also gives an impact on customer’s behavior and purchasing activities. This essay will discuss about architectural evolution of shopping malls from 19th to 21th century in the process to provide the perfect atmosphere for a shopping mall as a ‘theater’ and how it intervenes customer’s emotions and their shopping behavior. The idea of shopping as socio-cultural activities does not really take off until 18th century when shopping activities were conducted in marketplaces and city streets and it were all set up on daily basis not as a continual presence on the streets. During the time, the idea of shopping was more about localities of the cities and having the identities of the types of products that were produced. It was on 18th century when shopping took place in an arcade for the first time (Friedberg, 1993). Palais Royal in Paris was commercially developed into a covered arcade of shops. It was an enclosed marketplace where consumption itself became the spectacle (Friedberg, 1993). The characteristics of an arcade in 18th century that invent the pictures of shopping behavior for customers until 21st century includes: 1. The access to interior of a block,
2. Public space on private property, 3. Symmetrical street space, 4. Skylit space, 5. System of access, 6. Form of organized retail trade 7. Space of transition (Geist, 1985). In early 19th century Parisians have developed a lot of well-known arcades and galleries such as Galerie Vero-Dodat (1826) and Galerie Viviene (1827) but the one that has the biggest impact in shopping and architectural industry was the largest shopping arcade during the time, Vittorio Emmanulle ll (1877) in Milan. This was one of the earliest shopping arcade that implement all 7 characteristics of arcade listed above. The street passage is protected by steel and glass with centralised octagonal glazed dome with huge passages from 4 different directions (Steadman, 2014). Women can promenade along the arcade to see all the products by the retailers and at the same time allow them to feel secure in an enormous but enclosed space. Upon seeing the display and the atmosphere of shops in an arcade women for the first time set up their own stage for visual joy and entertainment, and enhance their shopping experience. The shopping passages and arcades were so popular back in 19th century due to the beginning of the use of steel as roof structures and the mass production of standardise goods (Steadman, 2014). After the Second World War the so-called arcades were changed to the whole network of shopping business with multi-spatial facilities were introduced; the department stores and trade halls. Au Bon Marche (1874) in Paris was the biggest and the most successful department stores ever built. The five-storey premises features the huge plate of glass display windows along four facades and cylindrical domed tower at the corners (Steadman, 2014). This department store was
targeted at a certain social status profile and the for the first time presents the manners of exposing goods on mannequins, establishing fixed price and provide customer services (Friedberg, 1993). With all the new display technique, retailers create a world of full of objects to be desired by customers. The world that provides the new unusual sensations of smell, touch, and the sight for the clients towards the objects. The keenness for consumption later build up the imagination and improves consumer desire to shop. In terms of the exterior, Au Bon Marche was built for the entire city block which makes it huge with continuous shop windows, interior light wells, galleries and massive staircases which allows woman to browse indefinitely in the store freely and safely (Steadman, 2014). The design is to encourage consumption and tempt the clients to enter the building and deliver them positive feelings about the atmosphere inside the building. Another eminent department stores in 19th century was Marshall Field’s Warehouse in Chicago, opened in 1857. It was one of the best department stores in America where for the firsttime women started to shop and dine without being escorted by men. One of the principles the Marshall Field implies to his employees were to treat customers especially women with respect; the slogan ‘gives the lady what she wants’ came out and is practiced until now (Rosen, 2014). Marshall Field’s department store was said to be important role of emancipating woman during that time (Greene, 2005). The way that Marshall Field’s store entertains the customers’ effects significantly on their sensation which increase potentiality of buying. Technologies brought shopping experience in a new comfortable way in Marshall Field’s when it became the one of the first department stores to have elevator in it (Rosen, 2014). Customers
can now travel through floors and saves their time and energy thus making their shopping activities a lot more convenient and less exhaustive. On early 20th century department stores were very conscious about new trend and style so it keeps rising in terms of the size of the building, functionality and the range of products available in the stores. Architecture in 20th century department stores were highly influenced by Le Corbusier’s modernism scheme with the use of modern materials, long strips of windows and pilotis on the ground floor. It was presented by Simpson’s department store by Joseph Emberton which was opened in 1935. It has huge numbers of floors inside so that they can extend the range of shops they offer and make full use of the elevators. The design of Simpson’s exterior consist of horizontal glazing across its opening as well as the concave ground floor windows provide practical function to the store (Gilbert, Matless, & Short, 2003). The large glaze entrance enable passersby to view the interior of the building right from the streets. They also placed the mannequins of display close to pavement and with the usage of special glass, the reflections will be reduced which makes the boundary between inside and outside even less visible. This approach indirectly attracts people to go to the store and somehow creates an urge to buy without even entering the building. Going in the 20th century, a lot of transformations has been done in the way that retailers try not just to fascinate the customers to go to the store but also to give them the sense of belonging to dwell in. Architects and designer worked side by side to create space that empowers people as in they either feel satisfied that they fulfilled their desires to shop or feel the victory as they able to resist the impulses to spend.
The important thing that needs to be highlighted in 20th century’s department store is the displays, promotions and advertising. This was the time that department stores completely start to feed customers with visual representations of the products, everything needs to be visible and touchable by the clients which then controls their experiential and emotional aspects. In 1930’s Werthiem Store in Berlin became one of first the departments store that use live models for the display of the products as well organising fashion shows. Wertheim Store was the store that came out with the idea to hire good-looking shop assistants especially women as they are the face and identity of the shop itself. This is vital to clients because they help to regain more confidence in buying and trying new fashion style. The idea of simplicity and minimalism does not only influence the construction industries but also the fashion industries. Stores started to use modernist approach by rejecting ornamentation to an elegant and simplicity display for the arrangement of the shop. The example of department store which can be associated with this approach is Eaton’s College Street Store which was opened in 1930. The ideas of department stores changes as time passes from 20th century to 21st when the stores became mall boutiques of its own. Most exclusive boutique prefer simplicity design which can be traced back to modernism and minimalist approach. Very simple interior structure, monotone colour with subtle lighting is presented by Zeferino in Brazil, opened in 2008 (Jodidio, 2011). The range of products are also limited because of its exclusiveness, so not all people has the chance to own them. The ambiance set by the retailers control customers feeling as they are in a very special and exceptional world where not everyone had a chance to enter let alone to possess it.
Differ from exclusive boutique which the target was for the rich, there are shops for example the Uniqlo in Paris Opera which offers the clients withmcompletely different experience than going in exclusive shops (Jodidio, 2011). Often featured with cramped displays, narrow alleys, lots of flickering lights and mirrors, this type of shops sometimes provides people more comfort and cheer. Most importantly since the atmosphere of the shops is quite congested with people and displays, people can sneak out without buying anything which brings them sense of confidence and happiness to be part of the shopping activities. The can shop without even buying. The concept of shopping mall is not just for shopping but to have people entertained in any ways. As an example, MyZeil Shopping Mall in Frankfurt does not only have huge amount of shops in it but also have different types of cafes, restaurants, cinemas, fitness centres and kids playing area (Batista, Vellasco, & Ornelas de Lima, 2015). The growth of shopping malls breaks the norms and beliefs that shopping and going to mall are just for women because malls are now built with facilities that are suitable for all ages and gender. Unlike the exclusive boutique, malls do not have targeted clients. The advancement of technology gives effect on architectural aspects of a mall. MyZeil Shopping Mall for example uses cutting edge technology to generate forms of the building (Batista, Vellasco, & Ornelas de Lima, 2015). This put the building as an architectural landmark and attract tourists as well as architecture enthusiast worldwide. The Disneyland Theme park is also regarded as a shopping mall because it is related to shopping mall concept which is a place of entertainment not just to shop (Young & Riley, 2002). Theme parks also adopted the approach of ‘making the fictions reality’ which does not drift far
from initial shopping concept which is to create ‘world of fantasy’. Both requires imaginations from one person aided with all visual effects provided by the organisers. The conception and functionality of shopping mall has been developed gradually since 18 th century. The aim is always the same, to give customers perfect shopping experience and induce them to buy the products. Over the time the retailers has managed bring shopping to a whole new level. Shopping are not simply for fulfilling pleasures, it is a platform of learning, empowerment, sociality and enlightenment. The level of perfection in shopping experience as achieved today is due to parallel advancement between fashion and architecture itself. The mall is a theater which many people enter to escape from reality. (1850 words)
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